Travel Love Poland Magazine - September 2019

Page 1



through the lens


Autumn can be found everywhere, where there are forests, water reservoirs, parks, and squares of greenery. We can say that nature is the biggest indicator of the upcoming season.



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ADVENTURES book your adventure




Adventures require from the adventurer fine health and mental condition. Routes are short and easy. 2Poland staff provides all the necessary equipment and tutorials. Some of them are suitable for families and seniors .

Adventures require from the adventurer fine health and mental condition. De-pending on the activity it is recommended for one to have at some basic skills, and good preparation. 2Poland provides equipment and tutorial before the adventure. Routes are not difficult but may become rough depending on the weather conditions.

Adventures require from the adventurer very good health and mental condition. Depending on the activity it is crucial for one to have at least basic skills, and good preparation. 2Poland can provide equipment and basic tutorial before the adventure.

Adventure is about fuelling the fire in our hearts — our passions, our dreams, our will to explore. This is a short story of Paweł and Łukasz - two guys from Poland who discovered the beauty of their country of origin. They met each other in an international Corporation 14 years ago. Despite completely opposite ways of life, they quickly became friends because they shared a common passion, which was travelling. When there was not much to do in the office, they used to display a virtual world map and plan their expeditions to the wildest and the most inaccesible locations in the world. Travelling stood for an adventure to them. They even planned to set up an adventure travel agency. All in all, it didn’t work out as they made different life choices that set them apart for a while. Łukasz started to run a martial arts club and organize expeditions to Asia and Africa, while Paweł gathered experience touring to Egypt, Tunisian Sahara, Greece, and other European countries as a tour leader. They met from time to time for a open air camping where they shared their stories by the fire.

They camped in the mountains and forests, by the lakes or rivers always in Poland. Why not in the Sahara desert, on the Kenyan Savannah or in the Rain Forest in South America? They kept on asking themselves that question. They quickly came up with an answer – the world is undoubtedly beautiful but Poland… is more than that. It is the people, our long, rough and dramatic history, the Polish tradition and bond everything so fascinating that one can’t just pass it by indifferently. Their new travel began. Discovering Poland became their new passion. They realised that it was far more amazing that they could have ever expected. They have started to find places so genuine that the idea of an adventure business project came back with double-power shortly. They came up with another conclusion: „If we are not meant to travel together around the world, let’s invite the world to travel here with us!”. Therefore, after several years of planning they decided to merge powers and cooperate offering the best activities to foreign visitors to share their passion for Poland with the world. During numerous visits in various countries they easily noticed that the worldwide tourism is dominated by “big players”. In their business plans, huge corporations owning multiple number of hotels and resorts seem to exploit the local communities, rather than support them. Pawel and Łukasz decided to develop their project as a part of Responsible Travel idea, which enables local communities and their resources to be part of the tourism business as much as possible. They disgust the triviality of mass tourism and put the emphasis on the local authenticity. They look for places which are not crowded by tourists and highlight their attractiveness. Their mission is to present Poland as no one does. They want you to join them exploring our Polish wild nature, meeting its hearty people, trying delicious traditional Polish cuisine and above all - experiencing the best adventures. They will show you their homeland off the beaten track. No matter where you come from, they will make you Love Poland.


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media partner witkacy theatre in Zakopane

"Life makes most sense at the height of nonsense" Witkacy theatre is one of the most cherished theatres in Poland. It was founded in 1984 in tribute to a Zakopane legend, Stanislaw Ignacy Witkiewicz.


from the editor Dear Readers, Autumn is the season when warm air slowly fills up with moisture and the smell of falling leaves. The time of colours, nostalgia and the slowing down pace of life – especially in nature. It is also time for those who, looking for an escape from the hustle and bustle, go on trips to places which typically crowded in summer, in autumn offer rest in peace and quiet. In this issue of the Magazine, we invite you to several sentimental journeys. We start with a trip to Tyniec Abbey, just minutes away from Kraków. Immediately afterwards, we suggest moving to somewhat quieter parts of Poland, first to the east of the country, where Agnieszka Gromek will tell us about autumn. And then a short trip to one of probably the most romantic small Polish towns, i.e. to Kazimierz on the Vistula River. The main part of this issue is devoted to the region of Kielce. Piotr Michalec talks about its colours and nooks and crannies. I especially recommend his photographs. Kamil Paluszek in turn will talk about spiritual culture – taking us into the world of forgotten Orthodox churches. In this issue I would also like to recommend a short text by Professor Marceli Tureczek about a little-known place in Poland, somewhere in its western corners. The article is dedicated to the unique statue of the wolf. It's probably a tradition that Janusz Wańczyk's photographs appear in most of our magazines. This time, we suggest you read his new book about his beloved Sącz land. Another tradition seems to be the presence of Mikołaj Gospodarek, an avid traveller and photographer. This time his story about Kashubia. However, we are particularly proud of the presentation of the Czorsztyn region. For me, it is also a nostalgic journey, as I remember this area from expeditions when there was no big lake there. Once again, I would like to thank Aneta Markus and Łukasz Lisiecki for help in creating the article. And finally, a bit of reflection on our cultural heritage in the text about Orava by Ania Olesińska with the pictures by Łukasz Sowiński. Our portrait master, Marek Kalisiński, will show you his reportage from the Battle of Grunwald re-enactment. The list is by no means complete… enjoy your reading! and...don't forget to go to Wrocław :) - thanks to Anna Adamska. Editor-in-Chief Travel.LovePoland

artur tomasz tureczek

Contributors to this issue: Anna Adamska, Mikołaj Gospodarek, Agnieszka Gromek, Marek Kalisiński, Piotr Michalec, Aneta Markus: Promotion Department, Czorsztyn, Łukasz Lisiecki 360STUDIO.ORG – WIRTUALNA RZECZYWISTOŚĆ, Ania Olesińska, Kamil Paluszek, Łukasz Sowiński, prof. Marceli Tureczek and Janusz Wańczyk. Additionally: thanks to Kazimierz Nóżka and Znak Publishing House for cooperation on this issue. As always: our special BIG thanks to Kasia Śpiewankiewicz – graphic editor for your patience and support. Thank You. If you would like to support or cooperate with our magazine please contact us via:

TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND online magazine published by love Poland ltd Registered office address: 178 Mitcham Road, London, England, SW17 9NJ Company number 10956488 Company registered in England and Wales. British Library ISSN 2515-8503 Copyrights by love Poland ltd and/ or authors of photographs and texts as indicated. All photographs and texts are published under the exclusive permission granted to travel.lovePoland Magazine by their authors. Please do not copy or publish without authorisation. WWW.LOVEPOLAND.ORG


T R A V E L . L O V E P O L A N D




CONTENTS Tyniec Abbey 0 7

Świętokrzyskie Province: Piotr Michalec 3 2

5 2

Czorsztyn: Aneta Markus and Łukasz Lisiecki Wooden Tserkvas: Kamil Paluszek

7 2

9 4

Grunwald 1410: Marek Kalisiński

20 28 62 66 88 92 110 112 116 1118 120 122

Eastern Moods by Agnieszka Gromek A nostalgic walk in Kazimierz Kayaking in Mazury Moja Sądecczyzna by Janusz Wańczyk Kashubian fascinations by Mikołaj Gospodarek The Wolf Monument by Marceli Tureczek Meet my city: Wroclaw by Anna Adamska From the heart of Orava by Ania Olesińska and Łukasz Sowiński Old Toys St. Martin's Croissants Events Book Promo: Bieszczady

photo on the front cover: Kazimierz Dolny by Wisła River - lovePoland archive


Benedictine monastery Tyniec Picture created with watercolours by dannywilde


photo by Piotr Zawisza

TYNIEC ABBEY source: viabenedictina.EU

photo: Mariusz Ciszewski,


Tyniec Abbey has stood for nearly 1000 years above the Vistula River near Cracow. It reflects the artistic changes of successive epochs. Remains of its Romanesque buildings have been preserved (a part of the church and monastery). There is also a gothic cloister, gothicbaroque church, and baroque monastery buildings. The Abbey is appears on the historical map of Poland as a place of great economic and political importance. For centuries it was witness to many important historical events. After the closing of the abbey in 1816, the Benedictines were to return only after more than a hundred years. Gradually, the monastery was restored and regained its former glory. Today, visitors can enjoy not only the beauty of the Tyniec landscape and architecture but also profit from wide-ranging educational and spiritual possibilities.

Tyniec Abbey has always been of great significance, chiefly religious but also artistic and political. The attention paid to liturgy is visible in the small but significant collection of liturgical objects. Benedictine spirituality is the foundation of the abbey’s existence. Monks organize retreats, seminars and meditations. The interior of the church and of the monastery are a reflection of the artistic changes over time. The remains of the older building phases permit one to trace the development of its architectural forms. Unique stone details are preserved in the Museum.

A double gate leads to the outer courtyard of the Abbey. Above it there is Opatowka (the former castle). Its current form dates back to the 16th century. The eastern wing of the former abbot’s residence adheres to the corner of the church. On the other side once stood the building of the county office. A slight elevation of the terrain constitutes its only remains. In the church visible are two styles: the gothic and baroque. The western façade, baroque, hides gothic elements: the right jamb of the portal and buttresses. The whole northern façade is gothic, including the presbytery enclosed from the east by a late-baroque façade. The interior of the church is dominated by the baroque . The nave is open to the side chapels with altars. Above the arcades there is a frieze and slightly higher the entablature.

The longitudinal axis leads to the main altar, dedicated to the church’s patrons: Saints Peter and Paul. The chapel of St. Benedict – the founder of the order and his sister St. Scholastic demark the shorter axis of the church. The presbytery has generally maintained its gothic form; A baroque décor was imposed on it. The vault and the floor are also examples of the baroque style. Remains of the older presbytery can be seen in the southern wall where there are partially-walled windows with traceries. Between them there is a polychrome from the 16th century representing the adoration of the Magi. The sculptor Francesco Placidi and painter Andrzej Radwanski are the authors of the late-baroque main altar, which was made of black marble.

photo: Mariusz Ciszewski,

The Way of the Cross painted on the pillars separating the nave from the side chapels was created in the 1970s. The cloister dates back to the gothic period. In the northern wing there is a stone wall of the oldest church with a Romanesque portal. The treasury – the first room in the eastern wing, also comes from Romanesque times. It stands on the place of the first wooden monastery. The chapter house next to the treasury was a place of prayer and community meetings. Today the gothic interior has a baroque décor. The southern wing with the sacristy was formerly used as a refectory (the remains of the refectory are preserved in the basement). Today, there are many boards commemorating events in history and on the important monks that lived here. In this part, a wooden 17th-century sculpture of Casimir the Restorer was placed. In the arm of the gothic cloister different layers are visible: gothic in form of the cross-ribbed vault and ogival portal, and baroque present in the two layers of polychrome covering the vault. The arms of the Cloisters surround the inner courtyard called the garth. The southeastern monastery buildings are closed to the public. Here are the rooms and premises covered by the enclosed order. The southern wing is the headquarters of the Museum, the Benedictine Institute of Culture and the Guest House. A well with a wooden roof is a distinctive place in the outer courtyard. The original roof was replaced by a reconstruction once covered by a polychrome.

photo by MangAllyPop@ER

The painting in the centre of the altar represents the patrons of the church. Next to the painting there are four sculptures representing St. Petronela and St. Gregory the Great from left and St. Barbara and St. Tekla from the right. Above the painting angels hold attributes of the patrons and above them there is a dove symbolising the Holy Spirit. The stalls in the presbytery originate from the baroque period. They were built in 17th century, with some changes introduced in the 18th century. They are covered with painted decoration – on the right there are scenes from St. Benedict’s life and on the left scenes from the lives of Benedictine saints. The contemporary altar was built in 1980 for the 1500th anniversary of St. Benedict’'s birth. Below the floor basement are concealed the remains of the eastern choir of the Romanesque church. The presbytery and side chapels are closed off by a black marble balustrade. First on the left is the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament. This was already in existence in the 15th century, since the 17th century it has been a place of worship of Blessed Virgin Mary. Finally the chapel was restructured in the middle of 20th century. The Chapels of St. Benedict and St. Scholastic in the second span of the nave became a formal model for other chapels. The altars in these chapels were made of black marble (in the others they are of wood). The same artists who built the main altar are the authors of the altars in the side chapels. The next chapel on the left from which one can enter the cloister is dedicated to All Saints. The third is the chapel of St. Benedict. The painting in the altar shows Benedict in the company of Temperance (a woman with book), earthly Love (a woman with a shield and an inkwell), heavenly Love (a woman with wings). Benedict, turned away from earthly Love, is directed by the heavenly one towards the book. This scene represents symbolical choice. The fresco on the eastern wall shows the Benedictine promises made by Christ and on the western wall the fresco represents the death of Benedict. In the dome of the chapel there is a fresco showing the triumph of St. Benedict. In the corners one can see allegorical presentations of the cardinal virtues. The final chapel on the left is dedicated to St. Anne. Opposite it is the chapel of the Immaculate Conception. In the second one there is a board commemorating Father Karol van Oost who brought the Benedictines to Tyniec in 1939. The next chapel in an eastern direction is dedicated to St. Scholastic. Scholastic is a patron of Benedictine nuns, therefore in the corners placed are figures praising the virtues of religious life. In the chapel one can see also a contemporary painting depicting the last conversation between Benedict and Scholastic. The last is the baptismal chapel. It is equipment with a font and paschal candlestick from 1981. The painting in the altar shows All Saints and above it there is an image of St. Gertrude. The wooden boat-shaped pulpit was created before 1765. The crowning structure consists of the canopy symbolising the Church and the figure of the resurrected Christ. The figure of a women next to the boat (an allegory of faith) is a very important part of the pulpit. The baroque choir is divided into three arcades. At the beginning it served as a gathering place for musicians and singers. The organ was built in the 19th century.


Tyniec Abbey

photo: Mariusz Ciszewski,


Abbey Tyniec surrounded by meandering Vistula river in colourful autumn scenery photo by fotolupa,


Tyniec Hill was inhabited long before the arrival of the Benedictines. Traces of settlement from the Neolithic (Lendziel culture) and Bronze period (Lusatian Culture) have been found on the hill. The Celtic peoples living in the vicinity of the hill during the late Lusatian period is known as the Tyniec group. The Benedictines arrived in 11th century. Tyniec Abbey is one of the first Benedictine monasteries in Poland. Since its founding origins it has remained within the diocese of Cracow. The location of the Abbey was of great political and economic significance. Till the end of the Middle Ages it was situated on a border area and the proximity of Cracow, the capital, often resulted in the Abbey, due to its defences, being the scene of fighting . Its location at the river crossing was of great importance not only for transportation but also for economic reasons. The origins of the monastery are still the subject of discussion. The oldest written sources provide contradictory information. According to most of them Casimir the Restorer was the founder of the Abbey. In the most extensive report by the 15th-century historian Jan Długosz we read that the monastery was founded by the same ruler in 1044 and Aron, a monk from Cluny, who first held the office of bishop of Cracow, was the first abbot. According to other sources the first abbot was Anchoras. Some historians have accepted the report of Długosz, others have opted for its foundation by Boleslaus the Generous or as an initiative of Casimir realized by Boleslaus. Aron, according to historical research, came from Brauweiller, and the first group of monks, at least in part, from Leodium. Likewise, art historians are not unanimous in their interpretation of Tyniec's origins. In their opinion the construction of the church and the monastery began in the time of Casimir or Boleslaus. According to one hypothesis a wooden temple was built before the Romanesque church. Remains of a stone church were discovered during the 1960s: this being made of sandstone on limestone foundations. It was a three-aisled basilica, with a fourspan structure, without a transept. The rectangular presbytery and side aisles were closed with apses. The naves of the church were separated by square pillars with halfcolumns from the side aisles and by transverse pillars in the western span. In the western part there was a one-meter-long risalit on the axis. The eastern choir was vaulted, the nave was covered by a ceiling or open roof trusses and the aisles by cross vaulting. The vestibule of the western part was open to the side aisles. There was a gallery between the towers. In the northern aisle the oldest abbatial burials were discovered. They were adorned with gold and lead liturgical objects. These are likely to be the graves of the first abbots. Another important tomb because of its location is that on the axis of the western part of the church. However, it was emptied in 13th century. According to some researchers it may have been the burial place of the founder, Boleslaus the Generous. 14 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

His remains may have been moved to another location because of his fall from grace after the murder of Stanislaus, bishop of Cracow. At the same time a wooden monastery was constructed, whose remains were discovered in the south-eastern part of the church. Rapidly wood was replaced by limestone. It is not clear if the stone cloister was already in existence within the Romanesque monastery. Its remains were not found during archaeological excavations. Double capitals covered with sculptural decoration are the only items related to the stone cloister. Independently of their function, they are proof of the attention paid to the artistic setting of the new abbey. Another example of such an eye for detail is Sacramentarium Tynecense brought to the monastery. Made circa 1075 in Cologne, it belongs to the so-called gold codex in which gold was used to make illuminations and golden texts The preserved remains of 12th and 13th century architectural details suggest the existence of several phases or rebuilding of the Romanesque church. The Tatar invasion in 1259 could have contributed to the monastery’s destruction. The Abbey’s natural defensive construction saw it bar the brunt of fighting amongst dukes for dominion of the land of Cracow. Therefore, in 1229, Abbot Lutfryd managed to obtain papal patronage; the pope issuing a ban on the construction of the fortifications on the hill. Possibly it was the same abbot who had the abbatial residence built, the so-called ‘castle’ to the northwest of the church. Its original structure is not known. The oldest remains date back to 17th century. The tower was a dominant feature over the gates and buttress wall. After the Bar Confederation, Tyniec found itself within the borders of Austria and the monastery lost then a part of its property. In 1806 German Benedictines from Wiblingen were transferred to Tyniec. The Polish monks left or were forced to leave their own abbey. Three years later also the German monks left Tyniec. On the 8th of August 1816 the Austrian emperor Francis I signed a decree to close the monastery. Three years later the diocese of Tyniec was created. The church and monastery in Tyniec was supposed to be the seat of the new bishop. Eventually, in 1826 Tarnów was to become the capital of the diocese. A part of the former abbey’'s moveables were transferred to Tarnów where it is kept to this day in the cathedral vault. Meanwhile, Tyniec hill was transferred to Jesuits who came from Russia. They spent only a few years in the monastery . On the night of 2nd of May 1831 a bolt of lighting caused a fire. Roofs and the habitable wing were destroyed, though the interior of the church was spared. Since then, the renovated church became a parish and Opatówka served as the seat of Tyniec property administration. The year 1932 was a significant date as it was then Jan Puzyna regained Tyniec. The Cardinal initiated renovations in the church and Opatówka. The monastery served as rest home for seminarians.Benedictines returned to Tyniec just before the outbreak of World War II.

Karol van Oost, a monk from Belgium who had spent several years in Poland searching for a new Benedictine foundation, was the first prior. He chose Tyniec, and after many years of efforts monks returned to the abbey. The outbreak of the war did not stop the renovation of the monastery. In 1943 Adolf Szyszko-Bohusz conducted an archaeological dig and presented the first project, one that remained uncompleted. After the war Zbigniew Kupiec created a new project. Its implementations were accompanied by restoration and archaeological works – under the direction of Gabriel Lenczyk. In 1961 interdisciplinary architectural and archaeological research was carried out by Prof. Lech Kalinowski.

During these excavations the Romanesque church was discovered. This research was preceded by wide-ranging restoration inside the church itself: altars and stalls were preserved. The baroque pulpit in the form of a boat was returned to the church. By the end of 20th century the monastery had been rebuilt with emphasis put on the maintaining of its clear architectural form. Reconstruction of the south-western part of the monastery (the so-called ‘great ruin’) was the final stage of the work. In 2013 Tyniec became a member of Federation of Cluniac sites.

Tyniec history in pictures source: NAC

top photo: estimated: 1918-1926 middle left: a view from the road, 1932-03 middle right: ruins, 1932-03 bottom left: view from a Wisła river perspective, 1932-03 bottom right: walls, 1932-03 15 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

“Idleness is the enemy of the soul; and therefore the brethren ought to be employed in manual labor at certain times, at others, in devout reading.” Benedict of Nursia

USEFUL INFORMATION TYNIEC ABBEY How to get there (by car – roads, car park): public transport – bus line 112 from Rondo Grunwaldzkie (travel time 25 min.); by car – exit Tyniec on the Cracow southern bypass; free car park – small at the monastery (in front of the barrier), larger on the right side of Benedyktynska Street, coach parking by the Vistula River; by plane – Balice airport is situated 10 km from the monastery- taxi service. Opening hours: the courtyard is open from 6:00 to 22:00; in summer the museum is open from 10:00 to 18:00, in winter from 10:00 to 16:00. Visit: guided tour of the monastery (courtyard, cloister, church when available). Abbey museum: permanent exhibition – archaeological and architectural details of the oldest period of the monastery’s existence; temporary exhibition – annual exhibitions devoted to different aspects of Benedictine heritage; tickets available at low price (usually 2-3 EUR per person). Hire of a guide is about 50 PLN per group (for Polish), 75 PLN per group (for foreign languages). Prices may vary and may change.

photo: Mariusz Ciszewski,


photo by MangAllyPop@ER

“He should first show them in deeds rather than words all that is good and holy.�

suport the Abbey:

Benedictine monastery at sunrise in Tyniec Picture created with watercolours by dannywilde


My name is Agnieszka Gromek. I am 47 years old, I was born and I still live in Bialystok. For the first 20 years of my life, I grew up in the nearby town of Choroszcz, surrounded by pristine nature and the outskirts of the Narew National Park. It was the nature that accompanied me from childhood that had a huge impact on my passion which is photography. From the window in the room, in the evenings I could hear the croaking of frogs and the birds’ singing in the mornings. In spring, I could admire the backwaters of the Narew, and on stormy days would watch the lightnings that had incredible shades... My family has lived in harmony with nature for a long time, I had grandparents in the village where I used to spend every free moment. From them, to a large extent, I learned sensitivity and perceptiveness when it comes to nature. All I needed was time to grow up and make choices about how I would like to share my pictures with others. Those were the days when I was sketching and painting. My first kiev camera allowed me to literally give myself to the passion of photography and actually it continues to this day. I have a great need to commune with nature, hence also frequent even short trips to our picturesque Podlasie. I always have a camera with me, and nature pays back with surprising and charming frames.



a house by a meadow, Kiermusy



Photographs by Agnieszka Gromek

About autumn in eastern Poland we are talking with Agnieszka Gromek, a resident of Białystok, or more broadly speaking – the region of Podlasie.

You can see my works on the page: "In my lens" WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/W-MOIM-OBIEKTYWIE

TLP: Eastern Poland, in terms of natural values, is associated primarily with nature in the form only slightly damaged by the human activity. In turn, autumn is a view of scattered chestnuts and acorns in park alleys and red beads on rowan trees... What is the autumn in Podlasie like for you? Do you like this season at all? AG: Yes, I like autumn as a season of the year. I associate it primarily with colours. The magic of colours that I can capture in my lens. The rustling of leaves under my feet in the park alleys. A particularly rich mixture of autumn colours that can be observed on the outskirts of the Knyszyńska Forest. There is a Landscape Park located there, distinguishing which high degree of naturalness and beautiful landscapes. Its greatest qualities include beautiful tree stands which I like to photograph and the land relief, as well as captivating small villages all around, on the border of the Forest, set into the landscape which look like if they were frozen in time... TLP: Agnieszka, what does autumn in Podlasie start from? Maybe it begins with the season of mushroom picking, bird migration, field works and preparation of the wildlife for winter? 21 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

AG: You basically listed all the symptoms of the coming autumn. However, it is most visible in the forests of Podlasie because the majority of them in our region is still stateowned so we have the opportunity to pick mushrooms and we very often avail ourselves of this type of autumn leisure. To tell the truth – who doesn't like to pick mushrooms?! On the fields, in turn, we have potato harvest or “digging up”. You can also observe the preparations of animals to winter – wild deer change the colour of their coat, elks go down to the forests. Sometimes bison may be seen in the fields. And everything is complemented with the golden colour of the leaves... TLP: Podlasie autumn is not always a beautiful and sunny season. Water in ponds, lakes and rivers sometimes acquires a grey, sad color. Sometimes the wind blows stronger and it rains all day. What can a photographer look for on these days? Maybe animals and plants preparing for winter. Squirrels starting to collect nuts and acorns, birds flying away to warm countries? AG: During my travels I always meet or find an interesting theme for photographing. My attention is mainly caught by trees, their colours and the depth of forest vistas. Sometimes, it is a roe deer in the field, sometimes a moose. The weather is not a problem. And Biebrza – my beloved river is also charming at any time of the year. I admire it all year round. In our free time we make trips along Biebrza starting from Dolistów Stary through Goniądz, Osowiec and my favourite, one of the largest and wildest in the southern Biebrza basin – the swamp of Ławki. Driving along the Tsar's Road, we can meet elks and this is something. I always count on. Sometimes, as far as to Wizna, where Biebrza flows into Narew.In this area, additional attractions include balloon flights during which you can admire the winding Biebrza ribbon – in the fall it gives additional experiences of colours and beautiful mosaic created by meadows and fields, but this attraction, unfortunately, is available only in good weather conditions. TLP: Autumn in Podlasie can be found everywhere, where there are forests, water reservoirs, parks, and squares of greenery. Can you say that nature is the biggest indicator of the upcoming season. What can golden, autumn Podlasie invite the visitors for? For a walk along the picturesque park alleys in Białystok? Forests, covered with colourful leaves? Where else can you go during the Podlasie autumn? AG: Of course, nature is the biggest indicator here for the upcoming autumn. In the city, walk around the park. In Białystok we have the beautiful Branickis’ Park which in autumn is the most impressive. I also recommend going out


of the city, to the area in the vicinity of Krynki, where you can meet the bison, you can go across Śliwno-Waniewo footbridge or take a walk along the backwaters of the Narew. The picturesque Supraśl spa town where you can visit the Monastery of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Museum of Icons or a walk through the picturesque streets of Tykocin and obligatory on the Czarnecki Square are another points on your “must visit” list – some of them let you “move back in time”. This town of two cultures where it is worth entering the Holy Trinity Church and visiting the Great Synagogue and the Museum of Jewish Culture , that commemorates the Jews of Tykocin. It is also interesting to visit Kiermusy, a place of a noble mainstay, rich in attractions, where you can taste delicious food in Rome Inn, spend a night in the picturesque Manor of Fours, see the Alley of Oaks planted by famous people, visit the bison reserve or the Jantarowy Kasztel. There are also gondola cruises with a guide on the Narew River. In each of these places we are accompanied by picturesque landscapes in shades of golden autumn. TLP: Everyone who has ever been to the regions of northeastern Poland knows that this is an extraordinary place where the modernity of multicultural cities is intertwined with the wildness of nature, mysticism of beliefs, religion, nature and people. Is it true that Eastern Poland is the last place in Poland where you can truly feel as a part of nature, relax, touch the lining of life? AG: Yeah. Different beliefs and cultures mix in Podlasie. Catholics and Orthodox and Tatars live next to each other here. Particularly closer to the eastern border, on the edge of the Knyszyńska Forest. Being in Podlasie, I would encourage you to visit Grabarka Mountain and definitely the Land of Open Shutters, which are places closely related to Orthodoxy. Also the Tatar trail will lead us to Kruszyniany and Bohonik where only few Tatars live now but where we can still learn a lot about their history, visit mosques, see the Muslim Tatar Cemetery and taste the specialties of Tatar cuisine, obligatorily ‘pierekaczewnik’ – for me is a delicacy! It is pasta dough baked in many layers, made of yolks with meat filling, with sheep, beef or turkey or with sweet filling, consisting of cottage cheese with raisins or apples with cinnamon and raisins. TLP: How would you describe Podlasie as its resident? As lively villages, where in the evenings adults gossip at the fences and children arrange various games. Haystacks on the Biebrza River, bustling rural markets. And what about the cities? e.g. Białystok, where you live. What is your Podlasie? Is it drowsy and forgotten as some people say or, on the contrary, full of life, an interesting place to discover?

My Podlasie is above all my little homeland. I love this region. Although a lot has changed here, young people flee to the city, villages are becoming deserted, you can’t meet as many people gossiping near their fences or on the neighbours’ benches as in the past... I often pass abandoned villages, decaying houses... Sometimes, when passing through the village in the evening, we do not meet anyone. Less often we see traditional haystacks in the meadows. The cities and surrounding towns in turn are teeming with fairs, picnics, dance parties. Much has changed over the years, especially in the countryside. However, Podlasie is not sleepy, it is multiculturalism that increases the attractiveness of our region! Nature, landscapes, monuments, regional dishes attract tourists. Podlasie is still a place to discover even for us, residents of this area.

Agnieszka Gromek









Autumn EASTERN MOODS PHOTOS by Agnieszka Gromek

top left photo: Old traditional house, Open Air Museum, Jurowiece top right photo: Biebrza National Park, Uścianek bottom to the left: beehive, Rajgród bottom central photo: Crosses. Skrablaki bottom to the right photo: Czernidłak kołpakowaty (Coprinus comatus), Osowiec Forest




KAZIMIERZ DOLNY NAD WISŁĄ Seeking for a unique and creativity-enhancing atmosphere


Source of historical info:

Kazimierz remains in my memory, just like in case of many other visitors, as a place of special sentimental significance. I don't know if it was influenced by the Two Moons film based on the novel by Maria Kuncewiczowa, or it is rather a personal experience. Although I haven't visited Kazimierz for many years, I still remember my frequent visits there very well, especially those summer ones, when the sun was high and the air was filled with the smell of the surrounding fields. It was in Kazimierz where I discovered my passion for traditional folk music thanks to the Polish Folk Music Festival organised there for years. If you have not been to Kazimierz, it will not be easy to give its atmosphere in a written word or even through the best photographs. The spirit of its rich and diverse past hovers over the city. The city (still as a small settlement) was founded in the early twelfth century and its flourish falls on the times of Poland's greatest splendour in the fourteenth century.

FIND SOME PEACE & AND QUIET The real Kazimierz spirit, however, probably results from the fact that at the beginning of the 20th century it became an artistic colony, a place where artists came – initially from the newly established Polish Academy of Fine Arts. Lots of painters decided to build their homes in Kazimierz. These painters, including many Jewish artists, began to constitute a characteristic and everyday motif of the Kazimierz landscape, that with time became its icon. The war, although it destroyed the town's Jewish community, did not interrupt the colony's existence. After it finished, painters returned very quickly. They did not only use to create but over time they began to exhibit their works here. Stanisław Jan Łazorek was the one who set the first market open-air "gallery", later he was followed by many others. Art and artists are the identity of Kazimierz. They are always present here, new generations appreciate the value of the town and fall in love with its charms.

It can be said with certainty that the artistic colony in Kazimierz is still alive and developing, and art has always been and still is one of the most important elements of Kazimierz’ identity. Kazimierz is worth visiting at any time of the year. In autumn, there are slightly fewer tourists so it is easier to find some peace and quiet here. The town lives in slow motion. This time of year gives the opportunity to fully experience the spirituality and specific climate of Kazimierz Dolny, it allows you to understand and appreciate this place and fall in love with it. In autumn, rich greenery of Kazimierz turns into a cornucopia of all shades of warm colours and gold. Whoever met the autumn mists of Kazimierz, whose nostrils were saturated with moisture and the incomparable smell of hornbeam leaves enveloping Kazimierz gorges – is the lucky one who will return to plunge into the peace and silence of the town's autumn nostalgia. Here, the sun of serene September twilights and October rustling under feet blends with the memories of summer seething with an excess of bright white, blue and sunburnt greenery. 29 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Kazimierz Dolny in brief Kazimierz Dolny is a small town in central eastern Poland, on the right bank of the Vistula river in Puławy County, Lublin Voivodeship. It is a considerable tourist attraction as one of the most beautifully situated little towns in Poland. It enjoyed its greatest prosperity in the 16th and the first half of the 17th century, due to the trade in grain conducted along the Vistula. It became an economic backwater after that trade declined, and this freeze in economic development enabled the town to preserve its Renaissance urban plan and appearance. Since the 19th century it has become a popular holiday destination, attracting artists and summer residents. Kazimierz Dolny is an art center in Poland. Many painters retreat to this small town to paint and sell their work. Galleries can be found in almost every street, offering for sale sculptures, stained-glass, folk art, and fine art. The town is one of Poland's official national Historic Monuments and is tracked by the National Heritage Board.


Kielce is the city located in the heart of the oldest European mountains – Świętokrzyskie Mountains called also as the Holy Cross Mountains. It is the capital of Świętokrzyskie Province and the main city in Kielce Metropolitan Area. In the past the city cemented its claims as the cradle of building industry. Nowadays, it is a bustling spot on the Polish map. It is the economic, academic, cultural, touristic and relaxational centre in the South-Eastern part of Poland. Within the boundaries of Kielce there are as many as 5 nature reserves, where there are plenty of geological pecularities. It is a real treasure trove of knowledge and secrets for paleontology and archeology lovers. It is here where the fossil of footprints of dinosaurs and reptiles, and especially the last sensational discovery of tetrapod, are an amazing witness of the exceptional nature of the region. Favourable geographic location, road network and the vicinity of the country's biggest conurbations make it a good place to invest your capital as well as to take a rest. Cycle tracks, many ski lifts, horse riding centres, picturesque hiking routes provide unforgettable experiences to the tourists. The city is also an important centre for fairs and exhibitions. Kielce Trade Fairs, which organise nearly 80 specialised events annually, that combines both, conferences and displays, creates perfect opportunities to initiate business contacts. Kielce is friendly to business people. Many of them have decided to invest their money just here. Brokerage houses, adviser's offices, a few dozen banks and financial institutions assure efficient consulting and financial support. Another factor making Kielce an attractive place from the business point of view is the Special Economic Zone located in Starachowice (about 40 km from the Kielce), with which Kielce Technology Park has been cooperating from the very beginning of its existence. Mayor of Kielce, from the official Kielce Website

Regional Tourist Information Center Kielce, ul. Sienkiewicza 29 25-007 Kielce tel. +48 41 348 00 60



Piotr Michalec

Piotr Michalec | "Kadry na luzie" : You can find his Instagram profile under the same name.

Piotr Michalec, 44 years old, a passionate photographer, a journalist at Radio eM, graduated of the University of Warsaw, for almost 30 years engaged in the media work, currently the deputy editor-in-chief of Radio eM and Tygodnik eM Kielce. Interested in regionalism, sport and film. For 2 years, he has been running a Facebook photo profile “Kadry na luzie" -

TLP: Piotr, most of your photographs are 'portraits of the Świętokrzyskie land'. Where did the passion for this region come from? PM: The answer is very simple. I am a ‘scyzoryk’ ( eng. penknife) – i.e. I was born and raised in Kielce. And almost everyone who is "from here" has local patriotism instilled in his heart. In addition, the residents of Świętokrzyskie region have a strong sense of cultural and social identity, distinguishing them from neighbouring communities. That is why they protested so much when the future of the Świętokrzyskie Voivodeship were discussed. These lands have a beautiful history card recorded even through the work of independence guerrillas during and after World War II. These lands have a beautiful history card recorded even through the work of independence partisans during and after World War II. There are numerous places where you can find the DNA of Poles who loved freedom and nature. In short, I am proud of the place where I live and try to show it with my photographs. TLP: "Świętokrzyskie charms" is the slogan of the province, referring to numerous legends about witches, devils and other fantastic characters. Everyone associates this region with


the oldest Polish mountains, the Świętokrzyskie Mountains, but is there actually something more to see? Many of people in Poland approach these lands with a distance, with a pinch of salt or even reluctantly. Is it justified and what can it result from? PM: If this is the case, then this is a big mistake. It is true that the views from the summits of the Świętokrzyskie Mountains do not compare to those we know from the Tatra Mountains or the Bieszczady Mountains. We cannot compete in this respect. But let someone try to follow the trail from Święta Katarzyna to Łysica in the morning and then further on, to Kanonin, where he will eat Świętokrzyskie dumplings at Chata Kaka, only then one can experience what it means to commune in silence with the most beautiful nature and complete it with tasting dishes straight from the "regional culinary world championships". I can rattle of a dozen of such examples. And they would concern, among others, the castle in Chęciny, the castle in Ujazd, Ponidzie with amazing kayaking trips, Sandomierz, etc. It is probably a region that is still poorly promoted in Poland and Europe, but it is totally untrue that there is nothing to see here or that we will be bored here.

If there is such a stereotype as you say that people approach the Świętokrzyskie region reluctantly, it is probably repeated only by those who have never been here or who haven't been here for a long time. I travel a lot around Poland and I am aware that in Świętokrzyskie you will not climb Giewont, nor have access to the sea here, but at the same time I know that this region in terms of landscape and tourist values is nothing to be ashamed of. TLP: Kielce is the capital of the region and in my opinion it definitely should be on a bucket list of every self-respecting tourist. I had the opportunity to visit it many times in the past. I could walk around the city many times and I saw the Toy Museum, the Bishop's Palace and Kadzielnia. I don't know, however, how the city has changed now? How much is left there of its former, somewhat dreamy climate? PM: Kielce has changed a lot in recent years, mainly due to the model use of European funds. It is a big city where you can move around without traffic jams which is particularly important for a tourist who usually wants to see as much as possible in a short time. From the places you mentioned, I would like to draw attention to Kadzielnia since it is a phenomenon on a global scale. The rock nature reserve is a few minutes’ walk away from the main pedestrian street or the Market Square. In the blink of an eye we move from the urban bustle to a world where the nature plays the major role. For those who like this climate, I recommend visiting the Karczówka hill, on the slopes of which a fantastic Botanical Garden was created. On the other hand, lovers of fun will find what they expect in the Market Square, there can be no question of a sleepy climate. And once you are in the city centre, it is impossible not to walk along the most beautiful promenade in Poland – only Piotrkowska in Łódź can compete with it. The popular "Sienkiewka", or Sienkiewicza street, has changed beyond recognition in recent years. Photographers love it for its historic character and amazing location, especially in the evenings when it lights up with hundreds of lanterns. From there, there is only a "stone's throw" to the historic Castle Hill with the Palace of the Krakow Bishops and the Kielce cathedral. It is true that the city authorities have to solve the problem of the disappearance of the commercial nature of Sienkiewicza Street, which was supplanted by shopping malls built nearby, but a tourist who comes here to watch and not buy shall not be disappointed. TLP: What about a trip to more distant corners of the Świętokrzyskie region? What do you recommend when it comes to cities? Please tell me why. Sandomierz, Opatów, Wiślica, Szydłów?

PM: Here, the matter is simple (laughs), you have just mentioned places that have an amazing history. And if there is history, then there are monuments as well . Sandomierz is probably the best known in Poland now, mainly thanks to the popular crime series "Father Matthew". The climate of Sandomierz begins to resemble the one we know from Kazimierz Dolny on the Vistula. It is a very charming town focused on tourists and they actually feel great in it. Monuments, the beautiful Market Square, the Queen Jadwiga Gorge and the proximity of the Pepper Mountains make me gladly go back there. On the way from Kielce to Sandomierz there is Opatów with an amazing Romanesque collegiate church and the beautiful Warsaw Gate. In fact, I always stop for a while there. Wiślica, although a smaller town, reminds me of Opatów a bit because its main attraction is also the collegiate church. I like the atmosphere of the one in Wiślica, because it is actually a Gothic church built on the foundations of two older Romanesque temples with a raw, simple interior. Anyway, near Wiślica, you will be able to find other Gothic or Roman architectural gems, e.g. churches in Chotel Czerwony or Skalbmierz. For this reason alone, it is worth visiting Ponidzie. And Szydłów which you mentioned is another of the Świętokrzyskie castles that you just must see. TLP: Świętokrzyskie is also an area of beautiful castles. For foreign tourists, of course, the most famous are the castles in Wawel, Warsaw or Malbork. Probably also castles of the Częstochowa and Kraków region. However, the Świętokrzyskie region also has something very attractive for history lovers to offer. Where first? Kurozwęki, Krzyżtopór or Chęciny? PM: First of-all, I suggest Chęciny. The town has changed a lot in recent years and adapted to tourists. Local authorities and residents understood that the castle towering over the city is a great opportunity for them to attract visitors. And they have the effects. The location of the castle on the hill is impressive. I had similar feelings while traveling around Germany and observing from the highways the castles incredibly located there. It was simply impossible to get around them. It is similar with Chęciny, everyone who travels using the national S7 road, already from afar sees the unusual building. It looks phenomenal at night thanks to beautiful light illumination. The managers of the facility also take care of tourists by organising "nights at the castle" with numerous attractions. In fact, Chęciny is currently a must see on the tourist map of the region. The same as the Krzyżtopór castle in Ujazd. This building also makes a huge impression, the more that it suddenly ‘grows up’ in the middle of nowhere. I must admit that due to a certain ‘professional photographical bias’, I look at castles slightly differently than a regular tourist.


For me, it is important how I will be able to capture the architectural gem in the frame. And here. I must say, the castle in Chęciny has a definite advantage over Krzyżtopor, which is probably best to photograph from a drone. From Ujazd in 30 minutes we will travel by car to Kurozwęki, where we can see a beautiful palace, meet bison or, for example, take a walk in a maze on a corn field. And a moment later we can visit a beautiful castle with an unusual fortification in Szydłów. A tourist in this part of the Świętokrzyskie land has no right to be bored. TLP: Then, let's take a bit further expedition to the Świętokrzyskie Mountains. This is one of the oldest mountain ranges in Europe. The logo of the Świętokrzyskie region originates from them, or perhaps from one of their summits, Łysa Góra mountain. There are many legends associated with Łysa Góra, including the famous witches' Sabbaths. Do you like this somewhat mysterious atmosphere? What significance do these stories have for the inhabitants of the region? Can they determine the tourist power of the region? PM: Everyone likes a bit mysterious atmosphere. It is true that there are ongoing discussions among the inhabitants and authorities of the region whether a "witch on a broom" is the right way to promote the region. Aside from the decision, it is known that history cannot be changed. You just have to use it to attract tourists. The next Sabbath of modern witches would probably not be the best idea (laughs), but events such as Dymarki Świętokrzyskie at the foot of Łysa Góra in Nowa Słupia are a great initiative on how to use the tourist potential of tradition and legends that arose in this region. Every year in August, tourists come from all over Poland to see the public iron smelting using two-thousandyear-old method. The event, which presents regional culture and tastes of local dishes and simply entertains the audience constitutes the tourist potential of the Świętokrzyskie region. TLP: And since we are already in the Świętokrzyskie mountains, it is impossible not to ask about the Święty Krzyż (Holy Cross) hill on which the monastery is built. I visited it only once, please tell us about your trips to this quite special place. It belongs to one of the most important religious centres in Poland. In the past, Polish kings made pilgrimages to it regularly, its name: the Holy Cross comes from the valuable relics of the Cross of Jesus, which are under the care of the Benedictines. Why is it worth going there? PM: Because of a few reasons. I will start from nature and landscapes. The monastery on the Holy Cross is located in the outskirts of the Świętokrzyski National Park, but in its most beautiful part. 36 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The vegetation is unique here, the views – especially in autumn – fascinating. We will find here viewing platforms, from which we will see a huge part of the Świętokrzyskie region. In autumn and winter, with a little luck, you can see a sea of fog lying in the Świętokrzyskie valleys and protruding above the highest peaks of the Świętokrzyskie Mountains. A view known from the Pieniny Mountains, from the peaks of Three Crowns or Sokolica. It is a pity that in the past the decision was not taken to demolish the telecommunication tower that the communist authorities had built on Łysa Góra only in order to diminish the significance of the Holy Cross as a religious center and to spoil the landscape. The tower can be seen from a distance of several dozen kilometres, but the real symbol of the Holy Cross is the sanctuary of the Relics of the Holy Cross Tree, the oldest Polish sanctuary, to which pilgrimages began as early as in the fifteenth century. For every believing Christian, this is a special place to reach. Could there be something more "advertising" than information that the relics containing wood from the cross of Jesus Christ can be seen there? I shall not reveal the whole history of this extraordinary monastery, I will only say that in my opinion that was the place where the Polish-Hungarian friendship was born. Why? You can find out about it here. TLP: The Świętokrzyskie province is a great area to catch your breath and wind down. Two well-known health resorts in Busko-Zdrój and Solec-Zdrój are perfect for a lazy weekend or a quiet family outing. Do you go there sometimes”? Are they worth visiting? PM: I am quite often in Busko-Zdrój. And not just because it is a charming city, full of spa resort patients. Busko is located in the middle of the region, which we call Ponidzie, due to the course of the Nida River, the tributary of the Vistula River. And Ponidzie is one of the most beautiful regions in Poland for landscape photographers. The undulating, kilometres-long agricultural fields create, especially in spring and autumn, unusually colourful landscapes. Driving to Busko-Zdrój it is impossible not to stop even for a moment to admire these landscapes. If you are thinking of spending a family weekend in this area, this is definitely a good choice for those who value peace. Calmness and trips. For example to the nearby socalled "walking pine". Busko-Zdrój and Solec-Zdrój promote themselves through currently fashionable "pro-health tourism", mainly associated with bathing in therapeutic pools, but there are many places worth visiting. I particularly recommend using the narrow-gauge railway on the Jędrzejów – Pińczów route or active leisure on a canoeing trip on the Nida.

on photos: view on Kielce

TLP: Finally, I would like you to take us to these perhaps less known but equally interesting places such as Pacanów, Ćmielow, and Wąchock. They have their own, sometimes somewhat funny, story. Maybe this is one of the reasons why Świętokrzyskie is sometimes treated somewhat jokingly in Poland? PM: It is known that the best jokes about the village administrators are about those from Wąchock. Why did the village administrator open a new bank account? Because the old one was empty. And to the question: What kind of discs are listened to in Wąchock? Everyone will answer: grinding! And the history of the goats, hobnailed in Pacanów is known by almost all kids. If the Świętokrzyskie region was treated with such a grain of salt as in these two examples, then the inhabitants would probably not mind. If anyone thought about it, one could transform this kind of "weakness" into success and organize the capital of Polish laughter here. Because the fairy tale capital is already here. I don't know if you heard about that but in Pacanów there is Matołek the Billy Goat European Fairytale Center. Good fun is guaranteed there by the Fairytale Character Museum, a cinema, a bookstore, a cafe etc.

I also recommend Jura Park in Bałtów for the visitors traveling with children, all-day fun with dinosaurs in the lead role is guaranteed there. The entertainment centre in Krajno with a miniature park is also worth recommending. Thanks to which we can explore the whole world. The last two places can be visited throughout the year, because in winter it is possible to take advantage of well-prepared ski slopes. I am afraid that if this conversation could take longer, I would endlessly recommend interesting places in Świętokrzyskie. It's really cool here! There is much to do and watch!

Regional Tourist Information Center Kielce, ul. Sienkiewicza 2925-007 Kielcetel. +48 41 348 00


Kielce. Henryka Sienkiewicza Street Piotr Michalec,


The Świętokrzyski National Park was established in 1950 and it encompasses: the highest range of the Świętokrzyskie Mountains- Łysogóry with the summits of Łysica (614 m above sea level) and Łysa Góra (595 m above sea level), the eastern part of Klonowskie Range and a part of Pokrzywiańskie Range (together with Chełmowa Góra). Mainly fir and beech forests occupy the most of the park area. On the park territory 674 trees have been recognized as natural features of historic importance. The endemic Świętokrzyski fir forest and larch positions on Chełmowa Góra are the park curiosities. 260 lichen species, 190 bryophytes species and 700 vascular plant species have also been found in the park. 82 species of protected plants and 29 animal species occur there. Among the most valuable plants are the following: Siberian iris, Globe flower, Ostrich fern and Dryopteris dilatata. Boulder fields, the plant-free below the summit debris of quartzite boulders of the Cambrian period, which are the evidence of the presence of glacier on the Polish territory, are the major curiosity of the park. The most treasured historical building of the Świętokrzyski National Park is the postBenedictine monastic complex situated on Święty Krzyż Mountain, which dates back to the first half of the 12th century. This is the place where Kazania Świętokrzyskie, probably the oldest Polish written text, originated.


The Skałki Piekło (Hell Rocks) pod Niekłaniem inanimate nature reserve is another example proving that the region abounds in names containing such word as hell or devil. Located in the Stęporków commune, the reserve was established in 1959 to protect curious sandstone formations caused by wind erosion.Scattered over a line one-kilometer long, they resemble mushrooms, ledges, chimneys, pulpits, and the like. Their height reaches 8 meter sin places. The rock formations are found close to the blue hiking tourist trail (Kuźniaki – Sielpia – Końskie – Pogorzałe) or to the black one leading from Wólka Plebańska (7km).A long tome ago the devils of the Świętokrzyski Region were punished by the Lucifer himself: they were ordered to stay for some time in the grim rocky environment. As the penalty was not really very severe, the devils started their devilish games climbing rocks and toppling them down. Eventually the rocks started to emit hellish light and hence their present name.



Ponidzie, which is located in the central part of Nidziańska basin, has specific microclimate, which is why it belongs to one of the most sunlit regions in Poland. Due to this fact one may find there both plants of Pontus steppes and xerothermic grasses (in “Grabowiec” Reserve), halophytes (in “Owczary” Reserve) and also a major riparian forest and alder grove.The backbone of Ponidzie is undoubtedly the full of picturesque bends and meanders Nida river used for canoeing. Its surprising landscape is enriched by inselbergs, domes and gypsum outcrops (in “Przęślin” Reserve). Such rich and various nadnidziańska nature has become a perfect shelter for numerous protected species of animals and birds. Warm river water hides many fishes, and so Nida is considered to be a paradise for angling enthusiasts.Taking part in a canoeing rally on the Nida River, that is meandering through the picturesque and quiet Ponidzie Region, is one of the ways to discover recesses of the Region. Canoeing down the river we may admire the landscape that charms us with its beauty and dissimilarity and gives us unforgettable feelings and remembrances. A tourist, that is looking for some leisure activity as well as some rest in the open air, surely will not be disappointed. A lot of support in organizing canoeing rallies is offered by the Municipal Centre of Sport and Recreation in Pińczów and by “” Tourist Company from Jędrzejów. They propose not only ready offers of canoeing rallies but also renting kayaks, luggage transport and help of qualified guides.


Cedzyna is a large artificial lake, the nearest recreational artificial lake closest to Kielce. It was built in the 1970s as a recreational and retention place. There is a small hydroelectric plant in the dam, and the lake is a popular place for summer rest in the Kielce region. Around it, there are numerous hotels and catering facilities.


Chęciny is a town located close to Kielce on the route between Warsaw and Krakow. The town is known for the picturesque panorama dominated by a Gothic castle sparing over the town.The Royal Castle in Checiny was built on a rocky hill top at the turn of 13th and 14th century. The first references to the castle appear in Wladyslaw the Short’s document from the year 1306, in which he stated a confirmation for the entrustment of the castle, together with eleven villages, to a Bishop of Cracow, Jan Muskata .It is just beginning to the long eventful history of the castle, which you can discover on a virtual tour. Currently, the castle in Checiny is one of the most visited heritage site of that type in Poland. Huge bastilles dominate in the area and are visible from the road leading to Krakow. In the eastern tower there is an observation point and when the weather is good, the summits of Tatra Mountains are visible.



None of Poland's towns can boast such a wonderful location as Sandomierz. Occupying a few hills and a high escarpment from which enfolds a splendid view over the Vistula valley, the town has more than 120 monuments of architecture. Most of them date back to the Middle Ages and that's why Sandomierz is considered a real gem of the Świętokrzyski region. It's difficult to mention all town's attractions but even the most demanding visitors will not leave Sandomierz unsatisfied.The highlight of the town is its old town with the Renaissance town hall standing in the middle of the market square. The ground floor of the town hall is occupied by the exhibitions of the Regional Museum; they reveal to us the historical development of Sandomierz. Interesting are old burgher houses that line the market square. Worth a special attention is the Oleśnicki family house (16th c.), Mikołaj Gomółka house (16th c.), St Andrzej Bobola boarding school (17th c.), and the House Under Ciżemka (16th c.).Very beautiful view of the market square can be enjoyed by those who enter the town through Opatów Gate (Brama Opatowska), one of Poland's best preserved medieval city gates. There were four such gates incorporated in the medieval defensive system of the town, but only Opatów Gate survived. Visitors can admire the panoramic view of the old town from its top (30 m).The Sandomierz market square can also be admired from the underground level. One of the town's star attractions is the Underground Tourist Route (470 m in length, 12 m in depth), which leads through a chain of 30-odd cellars beneath the houses around the market square.



“The Fern Route of Świętokrzyskie” is created for all those who share deep interest in ecology and enjoy staying in the wild, untouched by the human hand nature. It is going to be a real ecological journey into the land of memorable landscapes and unique in the scale of Europe flora. The 4,5 km long route is going to lead from Huta Stara through Huta Podłysica to Huta Szklana. The trail is going to lead through the Świętokrzyski National Park buffer zone and is going to be marked with guideposts. Information plates are going to be set up along the whole route in order to point the most interesting specimen of flora and fauna as well as to introduce the history of the region. True nature lovers will be able to broaden their knowledge at ecological stands. And there is a lot to learn, as there are numerous curiosities from the world of nature which cannot be seen anywhere else in Poland or even in Europe. The land of Bieliny Commune belongs to the Łysogórski Floral Land of Świętokrzyskie with over 40 protected species including 11 species which are endangered in Europe.Following “The Fern Route of Świętokrzyskie” is a leisure time activity in which education is combined with open air fun. Few interesting scenarios based on the educational path has been prepared for the groups. Not only does such journey through Świętokrzyskie teach respect to nature, but also it educates on the abundant past of the region.The Fern Route ends at the foot of the Łysa Góra on the top of which spiritual and cultural life of Świętokrzyskie is gathered in the Holy Cross Sanctuary. The hill is famous not only because of the monastery, but also because of characteristic to Świętokrzyski Mountains gołoborza (boulder fields). The Natural and Sylvan Museum in one of the monastic buildings gathers geological, archaeological as well as flora and fauna exhibits from the Świętokrzyski National Park which has been painstakingly collected for decades.



Karczówka is a picturesque hill located in the western part of the city of Kielce and topped with a beautiful post-Bernardine monastery founded by the Bishop Marcin Szyszkowski and dating back to the 17th century The early baroque church was erected in the years 1624–1628 and extended in the years 1629–1631, when a monastery with its cloisters and outbuildings were added.The church vestibule has retained its foundation plaque dating back to 1626. As far as the interior of the temple is concerned, it is worth seeing the St. Barbara’s Chapel with its interesting Baroque sculpture of the patron saint of miners, which is placed in the altar. The sculpture was made of galena ore extracted near Karczówka. The hill covered with forest is not only a landscape reserve, but an excellent observation point as well. Standing on the hill you can admire the panorama of the city and, weather permitting, you can also see further ranges of the Świętokrzyskie Mountains...



The Benedictine monastery on the Święty Krzyż (Holy Cross) peak is a historical monument of extraordinary importance for the Polish culture and heritage - primarily due to its historical and religious significance. Its well-documented metric and legendary beginnings situate the convent in the Świętokrzyskie Mountains among the oldest monasteries in Poland. For centuries, the monastery bore witness to many milestone events and retained links with major figures in Polish history, attaining the status of one of the most significant religious centres and becoming the heart of spiritual life in the era of the Jagiellonian dynasty.

Piotr Michalec,


Piotr Michalec,

Czorsztyn. History behind and the present days. text: Aneta Markus, Promotion Department, Czorsztyn idea, modern photos and support: Łukasz Lisiecki 360STUDIO.ORG - WIRTUALNA RZECZYWISTOŚĆ


In the southern part of the Małopolskie Voivodeship, on the border of Gorce, Pieniny and Spisz, a small but generously endowed by nature Czorsztyn community is located, with an area of 6,172 ha. The northern part of the commune situated above the road connecting Nowy Targ with Nowy Sącz belongs to the Gorce mountain range, with their gentle, wooded ridges and wavy valleys of streams. The south-eastern part comprises the Pieniny mountains captivating with its gorgeous colours, often associated with the massif of Three Crowns, Pieniny National Park, and above all – with the Dunajec Gorge, a real miracle of nature, famous all over Europe and admired by thousands of tourists who every year go rafting on rafting boats there.


An important very attractive element of the Pieniny landscape is Czorsztyn Lake. It was created by damming the Dunajec River waters with the 404 metres long and 56 metres high concrete and ground dam. The waters separating the range of the Pieniny Spiskie from Czorsztyn and the slopes of the Lubań range in Gorce mountains stretch from the dam under the castle in Niedzica to the surroundings of Dębno. Around the lake, there are numerous places for rest and fishing as well as opportunities to go on a cruise in cruisers and gondolas. On the banks of the lake, in the early 90s of the twentieth century, an open-air museum – Tourist Village Czorsztyn was established, using selected folk, spa and villa buildings located in areas designated for the future lake.

A road to the Czorsztyn Castle. October 1929, Photo: NAC

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There is also an ethnographic museum located there. In the area accommodation and catering facilities are provided as well. Another magnet that attracts tourists to the community of Czorsztyn are the developed slopes of the Wdżar mountain: chair and T-bar lifts, routes for skiers and snowboarders, alpine slides, a mini zoo, magnetic anomalies. Nearby, on the Snozka Pass, there is a monument by Władysław Hasior – “The Iron Organs”. The bicycle and pedestrian bridge in Sromowce Niżne that would connect the two banks of the Dunajec River, contributed to the revival of tourism between the countries , both on the Polish and Slovakian sides. Thanks to this 120-meters structure, an attractive tourist loop was created connecting the road from Szczawnica and Slovakian Červený Kláštor (Red Monastery) with the tourist trails to Sokolica and Three Crowns mountain summits. The writer can also give facts and detailed information following answers to general questiocanterviews, polls, debates on the topic, etc. Headlines can be used to focus the reader’s attention on a particule who, what, when, where, why and how. Quoted references can also be helpful. References to people can also be made through the written accounts of interviews and debates confirming the factuality of the writer’s information and the reliability of his source. But the Czorsztyn Land has much more to offer; it is also a variety and richness of historical events. The castle in Czorsztyn, built around 1350 by Casimir the Great, guarded the southern borders of Poland. Merchants from southern Europe, as well as royal retinues, used to pass this way. Saint Kinga stayed here in the Pieniny, and young Jadwiga, the future queen, looked at the waters of the Dunajec from the castle windows. Władysław Jagiełło as well as his son Władysław Warneńczyk were here, famous knights (i.a. Zawisza Czarny) and senators of the Republic of Poland used to visit the castle.

In 1790 a huge fire consumed the roofs and since then, the building began to decline. The mountain fortress is now gone, just with picturesque, jagged ruins left, the most important part of which is the massive four-sided tower and the walls of former residential rooms adjacent to it. Partially reconstructed cellars house a museum exhibition. In the village councils of the community – Czorsztyn, Huba, Kluszkowce, Maniowy, Mizerna, Sromowce Niżne, Sromowce Wyżne, there are about seven thousand inhabitants. All of these places provide well-organized accommodation and catering base hotels, motels, inns, guest houses, lodgings, agritourism farms, as well as restaurants, bars and canteens. From year to year, more and more private guest houses and other bed and breakfast facilities are established there, offering comfortable rooms with full home-cooked meals. The convenient location of the community means that it can also be a good starting point of trips to the Tatra Mountains and to Slovakia.


to the left: View on Czorsztyn Castle, March marzec 1933. photo: NAC. Central photo: Panorama of the Czorsztyn Castle from the Dunajec river perspective. October 1929. Photo: NAC. to the right: Czorsztyn - Chapel 'Jesus's Fall' . 22 July 1989. Photo: Archive of Pieniny National Park Library. Author: Stanisław Michalczuk

Places and Villages



A picturesque village located in the western part of the Pieniny Czorsztynskie mountains. Currently, the area where the village was located is flooded with the waters of the Czorsztyn Lake. Residents were moved to the housing estate located above. Czorsztyn was founded in the midfourteenth century and from the very beginning it was directly connected with the Czorsztyn castle and the historic trade route leading from Hungary to Poland. The original name Wronin comes from the word "wroni” - in the Old Polish language “wroni” meaning the colour of the crow corresponded to black. Bringing the German-speaking inhabitants of Spisz, led to the change of the name to Schorstein, i.e. a protruding rock, which over time got polonized into Czornsteyn and then into Czorsztyn. Bringing the German-speaking inhabitants of Spisz, led to the change of the name to Schorstein, i.e. a protruding rock, which over time got polonized into Czornsteyn and then into Czorsztyn.

The smallest village council of the Czorsztyn community. The village is located on the southern slopes of the Gorce. It lies on the Czorsztyn Lake and may be an excellent starting point for cycling and hiking trails in the Pieniny and Gorce mountains. The high location of the village guarantees a beautiful panorama of the Tatra Mountains, the Lubań and Pieniny ranges and from the west – Babia Góra and Turbacz summits. From Huba, there is also a picturesque panorama of Czorsztyn Lake. The origins of the village date back to the 17th century, when it belonged to the Czorsztyn district head, starost.


to the left: Highlanders during a Holy Mass by a Chapell, July 1940, photo: NAC Central photo: ruins of Czorsztyn Castle, March 1933, photo NAC to the right: visit of President of Republic of Poland Ignacy Mościcki in Pieniny, 1934. Photo: NAC

BA LTIC SUMMER ESCAPADES Kluszkowice A village situated in the valley of the Kluszkowianka stream, located at the southwestern foothills of Lubań, at an altitude of 530-600 m a.s.l. The village, founded by the Poor Clares, dates back its history to 13th century, when it was established in the Kluszkowianka stream valley. Today, located on the wide waters of Czorsztyn Lake reflecting the peaks of the Pieniny and Gorce mountains surrounding it proudly, it attracts the visitors with the richness of nature and numerous events. Water harbours, mountain trails, a ski station or a mountain of volcanic origin, on the top of which the legendary dragon's nest is located, are just some of the attractions waiting for active tourists. For those who like to relax in peace and quiet, there is a seclusion of the local nature, which, combined with tasty regional cuisine and highland kindness, will allow for a pleasant and unforgettable vacation.


The largest village in the community of Czorsztyn which, since 1993, has been the seat of the Community Office. Its creation is connected with the construction of an artificial reservoir – Czorsztyn Lake, the waters of which flooded Stare Maniowy, existing since 1326. Today's Maniowy, although completely moved from the bottom of the Czorsztyn reservoir to the southern slopes of the Gorce, does not resemble the village from past years. The architecture of the village is dominated by modern constructions, with the impressive block of St. Nicholas church. An interesting monument is the wooden St. Sebastian chapel of 1772 that was moved to the new cemetery. 55 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

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Sromowce Wyżne

A village located on the southern slopes of Lubań is a great place for people who value active leisure. It can serve as a starting point for Turbacz (1310 m a.s.l.) and Lubań (1211 m a.s.l.) climbs, with the famous "Modrzewie" [eng. larches] forest reserve located on its slopes – an enclave of several hundred years old natural larch forest. The lower part of the village descends to the shores of Lake Czorsztyn.

A picturesque village below Sromowieckie Lake. Its origins date back to the fourteenth century and are associated with the neighbouring town of Sromowce Niżne and the history of the Order of Poor Clares in Stary Sącz, who owned the village. In the 1920s, the scout houses of Watra, the Eagle's Nest and the Manor House ‘Cisowy’ were built here, which, to this day, constitute the accommodation base for numerous trip groups in summer and winter. The hamlet of Sromowce Wyżne – Kąty was initially a rafting harbour. It is here where one of the region's biggest tourist attractions -rafting down the Dunajec Gorge – has its starting point. Additional advantage of this village is its still lively folklore, cultivated by local residents. The population uses the Podhale dialect with strong Slovak, Hungarian and Romanian influences. Beautiful regional costumes are used to this day mainly on the occasion of church holidays. The proximity of the border crossing to Slovakia creates additional opportunities for visiting the Tatra Mountains, which on the Slovak side are just as beautiful as on the Polish side and abound in hot thermal springs. Near the border crossing, there is a ski lift called "Polana Sosny".

Sromowce Niżne A village founded in the first half of the fourteenth century. Its beginnings are associated with the history of the Order of Poor Clares in Stary Sącz, the first owners of Sromowce. The village is particularly rich in landscape values. The generosity of nature for this village is limitless - the beautiful location on the left bank of the Dunajec, at the foot of the Three Crowns, at the gate of the Pieniny Gorge, guarantees the highest quality of aesthetic experience. This is from where tourists usually go to Three Crowns, Sokolica, Castle Mountain with St. Kinga grotto of and to the village of Red Monastery, located on the other bank of the Dunajec. The tourist attractiveness of Sromowce Niżne increased even more when the footbridge on the Dunajec connecting Sromowce Niżne with Red Monastery in Slovakia was put into use. Thanks to this, tourists visiting the village have the opportunity to explore the Dunajec Gorge on foot or by bike, and visit the historic Red Monastery that dates back to 14th century. 56 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Old Czorsztyn

top: a view on Czorsztyn Castle from Niedzica. Library of Pieniny National Park, 1987. Photo: Stanisław Michalczuk central left photo: everyday life, photo: Jan Labus central right photo: Czorsztyn crossroads, view from Kluszkowiec, after a permanent closure of road traffic. 22 July 1989. Library of Pieniny National Park, Photo: Stanisław Michalczuk bottom to the left: A bridge below the Niedzica Castle, 1983 r., Library of Pieniny National Park bottom central photo: Czorsztyn, Holidaymakers: Ania i Danusia Labus from Ruda Śląska with chimney sweep by the Ostachowski family house, 1981. Photo: Jan Labus bottom to the right photo: Czorsztyn, Danusia Labus and Jack Rogowski (from Czorsztyn), in from of Bochniak family house, 1978. Photo: Jan Labus 57 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Wdżar Mountain ( 766 meters high ). The Wdżar mountain is the perfect place for skiing, snowboarding and other winter sports (four ski routes at total length of two kilometers). photos :ŁukaszLisiecki 360STUDIO.ORG-WIRTUALNA RZECZYWISTOŚĆ


KAYAKING IN MAZURY text and photos: Artur Tureczek and Kasia Spiewankiewicz travel.lovePoland

FACE TO FACE WITH A NATURE ON KRUTYNIA RIVER Summer is slowly coming to an end, and with it the time of holiday expeditions finishes as well. Perhaps, if you love to spend time on hot, seaside beaches, then the time of holidays in Poland has truly come to an end. Early autumn, however, has many charms, especially with the sun still giving a lot of warmth and slowly yellowing leaves offering beautiful views. Hiking trails are slowly getting empty, which is a good opportunity for those who are looking for a bit of peace on the trails of early autumn hiking. So, if you have some free time, we would like to invite you for an autumn kayaking trip on the Masurian river Krutynia. We visited this place at the end of August this year and therefore our relationship is quite 'fresh'. We didn't have much canoeing experience earlier, so at the beginning we chose the trip which seemed easy. This assumption confirmed in full.



Krutynia is a trail considered one of the most beautiful lowland routes in Europe. It is very interesting and varied, it runs through the Piska Forest, and from Lake Mokre also through the Masurian Landscape Park. The length of the trail is 102 km, including 60 km of standing water. Interesting flora and fauna along the entire route. It is not uncommon to meet a white-tailed eagle or an eagle on a rafting route. It is worth paying attention to the sponges and red eyes in the water that create "bloodstains" on the stones. The banks are covered with magnificent oaks and tall pine trees. The trail leads through a dozen lakes connected by short rivers (streams), covered by the common name of the Krutynia River. In the 1950s and 1970s Karol Wojtyła, later Pope John Paul II, followed the Krutynia trail. For our rafting we chose the Krutyń – Ukta section – this is one of the most popular routes for one-day rafting. The Krutyń – Ukta route is a typical river route and probably the most frequently visited section of the Krutynia. It is 13 or 15 km long (at the start from the reserve). The depth of the Krutynia River is on average 65 cm, the bottom of the river is overgrown with seaweed and water lilies, and its banks are accessible, sandy. It has a lot of fish and crayfish, so it is a place of rest for all anglers and water sports lovers. A nice, shadowed path leads along the banks of the river. About 500 m behind the village, mixed forests with a predominance of oaks are evenly distributed in all directions.

Due to its location, Krutyń is a holiday resort. This is how beautifully Krutyń was described in the School Chronicle in 1957. The village has preserved charming, though somewhat chaotic wooden buildings. Small one-storey cottages, some decorated with a porch and shutters, stand with gables or ridges facing the winding streets. In the building of the former barn from the late 19th century, there is now a post office. In the Masurian village of Krutyń, located in the heart of the Piska Forest, you can experience unique boat trips on the Krutynia River, which date back to the interwar period. The river on the rafting section is particularly shallow (average depth 0.5m) and extremely picturesque. You can see many natural peculiarities, such as a kingfisher or a black stork. The rafting service in Old Masurian style boats on the Krutynia river was awarded the title of the "Best Product and Service of Warmia and Mazury" in 2007.

Some beautiful waters can’t be discovered without getting lost.



photos by travel.lovePoland



love Poland


Moja Sądecczyzna by Janusz Wańczyk


It is the prettiest corner on Earth to me. Beautiful because of its nature. Hospitable because of its inhabitants. Ideally created for tourists. It is definitely my place on Earth. I have always returned here and I have constantly been astonished at the enchanting natural beauty of the Sądecki Beskid Mountains, at the diverse tourist routes so different from the beaten and crowded trails of the Tatra or Pieniny Mountains. Perhaps the Sądecki Beskid is not as popular as the Podhale Region, however, it is an advantage to me – as you can still find undiscovered areas and charming places which are true delight to the eyes and soul. In the peak of the holiday season you can freely hike here without complaining about crowds and you can spend your leisure time to your full satisfaction and enjoyment making use of all of the attractions which the region offers. You can really spare your time here marvelling at the views and wonders of nature. Wooded places on trails are a good shelter from the heat of the sun, there are also extensive forest clearings as well as observation towers. These are my favourite places: the Obidza forest clearing, Little and Big Rogacz, the Żłobki Pass, the Przehyba forest clearing (in the Radziejowa range). To my favourite ones I also add the less-frequent trail from Łącko to Dzwonkówka with an observation tower on Koziarz Peak. In the Jaworzyna Krynicka range, in a clearing above a village of Wierchomla I am waiting with my camera for a perfect moment to capture the majesty of the Tatras. I also recommend a route from Rytro to Hala Łabowska, a mountain hostel on Cyryla, Jaworzyna Kokuszańska Peak and the Zadnie Mountains. This is an ideal place for a photographer as well as an observation tower in the shape of a snail in Wola Krogulecka, Połom Mountain above a village of Rytro with two windmills and a breathtaking view on the Poprad Valley. You can often meet me in Piwowarówka, Jarzębki, Niemcowa – the scenic hamlets of Piwniczna. And these are only some of the attractive corners of the Sądecki land, which are worth recommending. The Sądeczyzna is not only famous for its natural attractions but also for its multiculturalism. Its monuments, found nowhere in other parts of Poland, underline uniqueness of the region. Along the trails from Nowy Sącz leading through the villages of Królowa Górna, Bogusza, Binczarowa, Polany, Berest, to Piorunka and Czyrna you can explore many charming rustic churches which belonged to the Lemks who once populated the territory of the Beskid Sądecki. A true gemis the orthodox church of St Younger James the Apostle in Powroźnik-the oldest wooden church, which is on the UNESCO World Herritage List. Similar churches are in Wojkowa, Leluchów, Dubno. The southern extremity of the Sądecki Land is the Leluchowskie Mountains bordering Slovakia. At the feet of the mountains the villages of Muszyna, Tylicz, Muszynka, Powroźnik are situated. You cannot forget the town of Krynica, which is called "The Pearl of Polish Spas". Its name is derived from its outstanding mineral waters thanks to which it developed as a spa. You can taste them in the Main Pump Room. The town features charming buildings – wooden villas and pensions and many other historical monuments. In winter it becomes the centre for winter sports – the slopes on Jaworzyna Mount, Słotwiny or Parkowa Mount are waiting for skiers. In summer the spa becomes the centre for operetta because of the Jan Kiepura Festival. The Spa Orchestra

also plays concerts. In September the town welcomes the heads of states to discuss the future of Europe during the Economic Forum whereas tourists have at their disposal numerous hiking, cycling and horse trails. They can also take a walk to the nearby picturesque villages among which Muszyna stands out, experiencing a real renaissance now. The real pride of the village is the Bible Gardens, Magic Gardens and Sensory Gardens. Suitably selected plants, silence, a light swoosh of trees and water in the fountains can soothe your nerves and allow you escape from the hustle and bustle. The next stops on the map of my photographic hikes are: Szczawnik where there is a ski resort of Two Valleys, medieval Stary Sącz with the Poor Clare Monastery and the wooden Papal Altar – the only original altar in Poland which commemorates Pope John Paul II's visit to Stary Sącz. The town has modern recreational ponds and the Bobrowisko natural enclave. To the pearls of the Nowy Sącz Land I also count in the following countrysides: Rytro, Piwniczna, Żegiestów. Along the trails of the Poprad Valley there are wooden churches, the Lemks orthodox churches and roadside chapels. The Sądeczyzna is not only its mountains. Another visit-worthy highlight is a water reservoir of Rożnowskie Lake. I have been exploring and photographing this place with a great passion for many years. Every day I am taken aback by its views, by its trails which I hike with a great interest and hope to take an original shot. I must admit I have never been disappointed. It is bordered on the south and east by the Sądecki Beskid and Island Beskid and on the west by the Low Beskid and Pogórze Ciężkowickie. The area is characterised by not big hills crisscrossed by deep valleys. The Stone Town is a pride of this area-the most diverse system of sandstone rock formations of unusual shapes. The whole region of Pogórze is dotted with remnants of historic fortified buildings such as ruins of castles from different historical epochs. However, the most remarkable natural attraction of the region is Lake Rożnów and Czchowskie Lake. Pogórze Rożnowskie creates great opportunities for water sports lovers. The landmark of the lake is an island of "Grodzisko" or socalled "Małpia Wyspa" (Monkey Island), visible from a distance, which is a flora and fauna sanctuary. In the villages of Rożnów and Gródek you can take a boat trip to admire rolling hills surrounding the lake and on the hill of Glinik between Przydonnica and Gródek under the majestic linden and chestnut trees is an old chapel-it is also a fantastic place to take photos of spectacular views. A legend has it that King Jan III Sobieski took a rest there returning from the battle at Vienna. In these times he would be treated to different wine species produced in the nearby villages of Zbyszyce or Chodorowa. In search of beautiful places steeped in history I landed on the trails of the Beskid Sądecki and Grybowskie Mountains. I have always visited Królowa Górna, Bogusza, Binczarowa, Polany, Berest, Piorunka and Czyrna to have a look at wooden churches. I will try to render the atmosphere of the places I have visited, the light leaking through small windows and stunningly beautiful iconostasis. In the end I would like to recommend to you the capital city of the province-the town of Nowy Sącz-situated at the confluence of the three rivers of Dunajec, Kamienica Nowojowaska, Poprad and surrounded by mountains from all its sides. It is my hometown, my place on Earth, beautiful and friendly for everyone.

Photo: Ignac Tokarczyk


My hope is that all I have mentioned here you will discover in my photos in this album. I kindly invite you to visit this place, which is incredible and extraordinary to me and I am certain you will not feel disappointed as the beauty of the landscape is truly impressive. Please, feel invited and you will be warmly welcome to the Sądecki Land. Janusz Wańczyk


SĄDECCZYZNA Janusz Wańczyk

get your copy at: Alfabet Bookshop, P.H.U. Księgarz Sp. J.Janusz Kubowicz, Jan Wnęk Ul. Jagiellońska 533-300 Nowy Sącz tel. 0048 18 4438057 email:


Moja Sądecczyzna photo: Janusz Wańczyk

Moja Sądecczyzna photo: Janusz Wańczyk

SPIRITUAL JOURNEY! photography by: Kamil Paluszek www.f ac kwie-33186 297 3679137/


WOODEN TSERKVAS OF EASTERN POLAND Wood is universally beautiful to man. It is the most humanly intimate of all materials.

For a tourist with at least minimal knowledge of the area he intends to visit, finding many churches is very simple. Most of the Orthodox Churches of Beskid Niski and Beskid Sądecki are marked by road signs, informing about the distance and the place where the object is located. In Małopolska there is the Open Wooden Architecture Route, thanks to which many of the objects included in the Route are open to visitors from June to September on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. The object then provides the substantive care of the Guide, which allows you to learn a lot of interesting things about the facility and the surrounding area. Churches inscribed on the list of UNESCO sites are open to visitors throughout the year. Some of them, however, are not so easy to reach. Those that are not prepared for tourists’ visits are often away from the main roads and often overgrown by the surrounding nature which requires more involvement in finding them. Such an Orthodox church in Łowcza on Roztocze or the ruins of the church in Kniazy are often visited at one time by the tourist who happened to hit them. There are no crowds, there is silence. Only you, history and your thoughts.

Kamil Paluszek: A graduate of the Faculty of Arts at the University of Rzeszów, lives and works in Rzeszów. An enthusiastic cyclist and a lover of travelling, both to closer and further destinations. He has been involved in photography for many years. The Facebook page of orthodox churches run by him presents the pearls of wooden and brick sacral architecture, not only of Beskid Sądecki or Beskid Niski. On the site you can find photos of the churches from more distant areas of Poland like Roztocze or Podlasie as well as from outside of Poland. Pictures related to the Lemko Land, Bieszczady, Beskid Niski, Sadecki, cycling and mountain tourism are usually placed on my personal profile - Kamil Paluszek or Pełny Kadr Kamil Paluszek, where I also present commercial and occasional photography.


tLP: Kamil, you run a profile devoted to the Orthodox Church in social media, your photos can also be found in books. One of them, The Lemko Land, we presented in the last issue of the magazine. Where did your interests in this rather specific topic arise from? KP: Actually, I have been interested in Orthodox churches since my very early age. I come from Muszyna, a place located in the Lemko region – in the villages of so-called old Muszyna Key, old Lemko churches can be found. In my family, attendance at the Sunday Mass has always been obligatory, but in the past I was always more likely to visit the old Orthodox church in Złockie on Sunday than the church in Muszyna. Cycling has always been my favourite way of moving around; that’s why I used to make trips to nearby villages which I was able to reach using the paths leading through the meadows, fields or forests. Probably because of positive emotions associated with these trips, the subject of orthodox churches still remains deeply rooted in my interests. It is also undoubtedly a wonderful topic for more or less artistic expressions. Drawing and painting have always been particularly close to my heart. tLP: Orthodox churches are scattered all over Poland. However, the most interesting and oldest ones are those in the Subcarpathian region – both Polish and present Ukrainian.

KP: In addition to the areas in Poland and Ukraine, a lot of great wooden churches are located in Slovakia. These are to a large extent the objects that I particularly visit this season. Most often, their structure resembles those that can be seen on the Polish side. Many of them are under renovation, or soon after, so our southern neighbours also have something to boast about this kind of monuments. tLP: It is said that one of the reasons why wooden temples were built in eastern Poland was the fact that the area was dominated by wood and forests, so the inhabitants of the region always had some construction wood at hand. What else influenced the development of sacred wooden buildings, especially orthodox churches, in this area? KP: The very deep faith of the people living in these areas for many centuries had to be one of the reasons why these regions are so rich in the presence of the orthodox church. The terrains of Beskid Niski and Beskid Sądecki were inhabited by the Lemko population, which as part of the "Vistula Action” was displaced in 1947 to the terrains of present-day Ukraine or on the so-called Recovered Territories. It is a very sad and tragic story of an ethnic group that left its traces best visible in the form of Orthodox churches.


Lemkos were Greek Catholic or of the Orthodox faith, hence, two churches were often present in one village. Undoubtedly, availability of wood in the areas inhabited by this population was a condition that enabled wooden architecture to develop and take forms that we can admire today. tLP: Have many of these objects survived to this day? Did the partial disappearance of churches result only from the fact that the construction material was not very durable? Are these wooden churches still full of life or forgotten? Or maybe they are only attractive for a specific group of tourists? KP: A very large part of these buildings has not survived to our times. Unfortunately, to a large extent, it was not the building material that was the "weakest link" that prevented their durability, but the political system and people's aversion, stereotypes and prejudices. At this point, the most important is to learn about the history of south-eastern Poland after World War II. Forced displacement of the Ukrainian, Lemko and Boyko peasants caused these lands to become completely uninhabited. Some of these lands were settled by the Polish population, while new settlers did not always think that the sacred architecture of "the gentiles" should be maintained, which in many places left empty churches shrouded in disrepair for many years, or was the reason why they were converted into PGR's (state collective farm) warehouses. For example, the church in the now-defunct village of Nieznajowa, considered one of the most beautiful Lemko churches did not survive to the present times; it collapsed in 1964, and some of its elements, e.g. the door with painted images of St Pater and St Paul are in the church of St. Kosma and Damian in Bartne, which currently serves as a branch of the Museum of Karwacjan and Gładysz Manor in Gorlice. Only the later possibility of the return of the Lemko population to this area, enabled re-inclusion of this architecture into the cult and its full revival. Currently, those that have survived are in most cases already after renovations or the works are in progress. Many of them have received new roofing due to the fact that the space under their ceilings is often inhabited by a rare species of bat - Lesser horseshoe bat ( for example in the churches in Dubne or Wierchomla Wielka). Nowadays, they most often serve as Roman Catholic temples, while in some of them Greek Catholic or Orthodox services are celebrated. An interesting example can be the church in Bielanka, which before the construction of the second temple – the Orthodox church, served as a temple in which Roman Catholic, Greek Catholic and Orthodox church services were held. So now they are not forgotten buildings, they rather live their new life as sacred objects and places of interest for tourists who more or less aware of the history of south-eastern Poland see beauty in the outer volume of the building and in the magnificent interior, often with rich polychromes and iconostasis. The orthodox churches that seem to be in the

worst condition are those in the area of Roztocze; at least that was my impression when I saw them there. However, the situation is currently changing, which can be evidenced by a beautifully renovated church in Nowe Bruśno. Unfortunately, the ruins of a brick orthodox church in Kniazy, or a neglected church in Stary Dzików, or a wooden church in Miękisz Stary show that not all orthodox churches are treated as monuments that should be protected as part of our culture and history. tLP: What is the dating of the oldest preserved wooden orthodox churches in the area of Polish and Ukrainian Carpathians? Is there much to be done to preserve them? KP: The oldest churches on the Ukrainian side come from the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries. An example can be the church of St George, currently located in Drohobych. On the Polish side, these are churches from the 16th and 17th centuries – Orthodox churches in Ulucz, Radruż, Gorajc or Powroźnik. All of them are currently in good condition after repeated renovations. Currently, the external roof shingles are being changed in the Church of Powroźnik. tLP: Do you have your favourite object? Which one do you like visiting and photographing? What is in the wooden soul of the church that it arouses interest, admiration or sometimes mere curiosity? KP: Of course, there are two objects that have a special place in my range of interests. Undoubtedly, the first of them is the Orthodox church of St. Michael Archangel in Dubne from 1864. It is wonderfully located, on the hill. In front of the church, there is a small orchard of fruit trees, which beautifully bloom and smell in May. The building of the Orthodox church is ideal for photographing from almost any place, and the tall grass growing behind the church is full of wildflowers. This is a wonderful place, quiet and the silence encourages reflection. This is one of the churches that I visit the most frequently. The other is the Church of the Protection of the Mother of God in Wołowiec. It has many features in common with the one in Dubno - it is located on a hill, next to it there is a vast field from which you can take great pictures. It's one of the first Orthodox churches which I visited during my further bike trips. Fatigue and very high temperature that prevailed that day did not help in achieving the goal, however, the view of the church's dome from among the leaves of the trees was a great reward for the effort devoted to it. Each church is different, although at first glance it may seem different. Each of them has a different shape of domes, proportions, towers of a different angle of inclination of the walls. It creates their uniqueness. During a sunny day or a summer downpour, the smell of wood from which it was built is very intensive. This fragrance reminds you of freedom, helps you focus on your own thoughts and encourages you to plan next visit. 75 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Tserkva in Dubne photography by: Kamil Paluszek 76Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Tserkva in Kotań of the Protection of Sts. Kosmas and Damian

The tserkva in Kotan was part of the parish in Krampna. The tserkva is dwelling no. 26 in the village and marked as an architectural monument.


Świątkowa Mała photo: Pełny Kadr Kamil Paluszek


Tserkva in Miększ Stary of the Protection of Ever-Virgin Lady Theotokos Chronology: XIX w. Form of protection: register of monuments Address: Miękisz Stary Location: Voivodeship podkarpackie, district jarosławski, commune Laszki Source: National Heritage Board of Poland



Tserkva in Brunary of the Protection of St Michael the Archangel The first tserkva in Brunary was raised in 1616, when a Uniate parish was founded in the village. A new tserkva was built in 1653, while the present in the eighteenth-century. In 1831, the tserkva was reconstructed and expanded. The old chancel was connected with the nave, adding a new nave, surrounded by three walls, with the whole tserkva covered with a new roof. After Operation Vistula, the tserkva was transformed into a Roman Catholic church.



Tserkva in Kotań of the Protection of Sts. Kosmas and Damian's St.Cosmas and St.Damian's tserkva in Kotan village nearby Krempna (built 1841 at the place of older church) Location: Low Beskid mountains.



Tserkva in Andrzejówka of the Protection of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin Mary Andrzejówka is a village in the administrative district of Gmina Muszyna, within Nowy Sącz County, Lesser Poland Voivodeship, in southern Poland. It lies approximately 7 kilometres (4mi) west of Muszyna, 32km (20mi) south of Nowy Sącz, and 102km (63mi) south-east of the regional capital Kraków. The village existed already in the 13th century, but was formally established under German law in 1352. In the second half of 16th century it was resettled by Vlachs, who would later become Lemkos.



Tserkva in Hańczowa of the Protection of the Blessed Virgin Mary

Hańczowa is a large village between Uście Gorlickie and Wysowa. As most of the villages in the area, it used to be inhabited by Lemkos. The oldest part of the church is its tower, built in the 18th century. The remaining parts of the building were constructed in 19th century In the interior there is a polychrome from the 19th century. The nave and sanctuary are separated by the complete iconostasis – wall of icons and religious paintings, created by Antoni Bogdański and his sons: Michał and Zygmunt. They were the members of famous artists family, coming from Jaśliska, painting the icons in the whole Galicia area.


Tserkva in Skwirtne

Tserkva in Szczawnik

Tserkva in Leluchรณw

Tserkva in Kotaล

Tserkva in Berest of the Protection of Sts. Kosmas and Damian


Tired of looking at beaches, fishing boats and breakwaters, I left the coast for two days and went to Kashubia. For a long time I had an invitation from Bogdan who used to remind me from time to time that I miss such a beautiful place. We managed to make some time arrangements and I hit the road. From Łeba I did not have a long distance to Linia. After a few years of online acquaintance, we shook hands, drank coffee and off we went! I admit that I was very sceptical. Autumn has already died, and besides I used to try to shoot in Kashubia earlier and it ended with a flop. The first kilometres did not reveal what could happen next... As a driver, I only completed his orders. After a few kilometres the first stop. We can see something in the distance. We're going with the equipment. After a moment I feel totally stunned. Lake Junne. The gangplank and boats like from my dreams, gentle light on the side, birches, birch leaves. After a few photos I felt that my prejudice towards this land is passing by. Bogdan is a calm outdoor companion. When we both noticed that we started taking the same pictures as at the beginning, we decided to go further. Leaving the asphalt 88 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

road, we arrived at the parking lot at Zamkowa Góra. Bogdan warned that it was a climbing trip, just as in the Bieszczady mountains, but I did not believe it until I reached the top, panting like crazy. There was a beautiful view from the hill. Young beech trees from the other side. Unfortunately, the sun conditions got worse – we decided to go back.

TRIPS TAKE PEOPLE We start looking for accommodation and right on cue, in the Kamienica Królewska near the shop, I find a nice and inexpensive "little hotel". Conditions as for the price – PLN 60 per night – seem exclusive! I am paying, taking the keys and we are going on. Here is a small digression – all the formalities I completed with a hearty smiling owner. I came back in the evening, went to ask her for something with a smile and I see that she does not recognise me. He can see my confusion and begins to laugh – with the same laugh as before – it turns out that they are twins sisters but so similar, that until now I wonder if they did not trick me.

We continue on to Kurze Grzędy Reserve. After a short walk we are at Lake Wielkie. A beautiful, dreamlike shore. We got closer to the water, but I experienced a slight slip in the peat, stepping my foot only 10 cm from Bogdan's feet. A bath in peat waist-deep – priceless. We photograph a tree that had fallen into the water. A great scene. We go quickly further to a small view point. Passage full of impressions because the boards are flooded with water, and around there is a swamp. Bogdan unfolded the tripod and went first. He says: put your feet on two boards – two at once shall not break... A few photos more and the race continues because the sun is already setting down. We drive a few kilometres further to Lake Lubygość. Despite it is forbidden for motor vehicles, I risk and drive straight to the lake. What a shore it is! Initially very sceptical, now I am overjoyed with my camera. After a while, we risk further. I drive up the road. My Ford Fiesta is a very road car but it does the trick. Suddenly, a small "lake" and rut. Well, this is the end- we have to go back. Bogdan, however, does not give up. He goes a meter in front of the car and I somehow pass. After a while, we reach a point about 200 meters from the Lechicka Slit. Unfortunately, about 20 minutes too late... However, the place will remain in my memory. I will be back there for sure, but on foot.

We reach the asphalt road, it is totally dark. In the forest, on the leaves, I had a first opportunity to check ABS. We say goodbye to each other, a quiet Kashubian night falls. The roads are getting empty, or I am travelling with some side ones. Hotel seems all dark, I'm the only guest. There is such decor that you could shoot a horror movie about a murder in a hotel there. By day, "marbles" and other decorations looked much better. The room is really cosy. The size and the wide scope of the facility, however, overwhelmed me. Maybe it's because in the dark I could not turn on the lights. The second day was really harsh to us. ICM forecasts showed rain and it really rained. We drove a lot, and Bogdan gave me even more taste! Driving only in one direction we stopped for 5 times at beautiful points! How could it happen that I did not get to these places earlier? It's a kind of paradise. Water, forests and all of this together creates a beautiful landscape. From many hills there you can admire wonderful panoramas. Sometimes, on the lakes, I had in my mind the descriptions of nature by Arkady Fiedler from the book "Canada smelling of resin". I was truly delighted with Kashubia so I will return to this place in the future. This is a region other than all others. On the one hand, it is "wild" and on the other hand, the things that were manintroduced, can harmonise with nature. 89 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


German (and common) heritage in western Poland - The Wolf Monument for travel.lovePoland Magazine

prof. Marceli Tureczek University of Zielona Góra

The territories of western Poland remained within the territory of Germany until 1945. Hence, this area is also characterised by a very interesting but complex cultural heritage. Just after the end of World War II, efforts were made to erase it – it was the result of the tragedy of war, however today it is being rediscovered. An example of such heritage is the wolf statue - a unique monument on a Polish scale. This forest obelisk, quite simple in construction, located in Międzyrzecz community in the Lubuskie Voivodeship, near Wyszanowo and Bukowiec, was recalled by local foresters. It is also the heritage of the wealthy noble family von Gersdorff – built in 1852/1853 in memory of the shooting of the last wolf in the Bukowiec-Wyszanowo forests, which was to kill local flocks of sheep. The wolf was shot by Johann Unger whose family, still living in Germany, used to have a small estate near Babimost. Johann Unger was not so much a hunter as it appears from the current Polish translation, but a soldier (Lützower Jäger) of general Adolf von Lützow (1782-1834), a Prussian patriot, one of the most famous German heroes of the Napoleonic wars. It should also be added - the organizer of the corps of volunteers who would fight against Napoleon. Johann Unger was one of those volunteers, and Gustaw Leopold von Gersdorff – the author of the text on the monument and heir to the once great estate, did not fail to mention this "Napoleonic" heritage. This was the entire original text: This is the end of the life of a pest who devoured the others’ lambs His lusty hunger was slaked forever By Jäger hunter, Johann Unger’s endeavour You should draw up one conclusion, Defending one’s home is not an illusion As it protects against foreign intrusion. Breaking into someone’s home, You risk the fate of a wolf and then sober And just as him you will die as a robber. Bauchwitzer Wolfjagd den 18. Juli 1852 Hier endete der Kommunist der anderer Leute Lämmer frißt Für immer stillt dem seinen Hunger Lutzower Jäger Johann Unger Die Lehre ziehet nun daraus jeder verteidigt sein haus In fremd Eigentum einzudringen niemals wird Euch gelingen Wolfes Schicksal könnt Ihr erben so wie er als Räuber sterben. *** Bukowiec Wolf Hunt on July 18, 1852 92 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The Wolf Monument is a difficult destination for tourists from Poland and Germany. This is the only such monument in Poland. But it is not the only one built by the Gersdorffs in the Bukowiec forests. There was another, built at the crossroads of the road leading to Siercz and the dirt road leading to the place known before 1945 as "Unter den Birken", where in the 1920s a sports field was established which exists in this location to this day. It was a monument to the forester Wilhelm Obst, the glorifier of the Bukowiec forests. There was a short poem on the monument: Der Wald ein Segen Wo Gott ihn schuf Den Wald zu pflegen Ein schöner Beruf

*** The Lord brought great favours Where forests are his endeavours; Keeping them in proper condition It’s braw calling and tradition.

Even after World War II, as the older inhabitants recall, the existing stone pyramid – almost identical to the Wolf Monument – was called "the old man and his wife". Currently, only the foundation under the pedestal of this obelisk has been preserved. It is worth adding that in recent years wolves have returned to the forests of the Lubuskie Voivodeship. Dozens of these animals live here and this is one of the regions of Poland where this species is the most numerous due to the very extensive forest area. Lubuskie Voivodeship is the most forested area of modern Poland. You can meet wolves even in the vicinity of the monument.

preserving our heritage

The Wolf Monument photo archive of Prof. Marceli Tureczek and travel.lovePoland Magazine 93Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Grunwald 1410 PHOTOS: MAREK KALISIŃSKI Witold (Vytautas) a ruler of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Donatas Mazurkevičius.

Photos of Battle of Grunwald by


Anniversary of the Battle of Grunwald. "Symbol of strength and greatness of our homeland" The Battle of Grunwald, which took place on July 15, 1410, is recognised by historians as one of the most important and the most spectacular military events of the Middle Ages. It comes as no surprise that for years the re-enactment of the battle has attracted thousands of lovers of this historical period and reenactors from around the world (including Lithuania, Russia, Germany, and even the USA and Australia).

A few days before the battle, the reenactors set up historical camps in which they live according to medieval rules and principles. They do not use modern appliances, cook according to medieval recipes and dress only in historical clothes. The camp near the battlefield of Grunwald is attended also by numerous artisans to demonstrate traditional crafts, making historical outfits, pottery or the armaments. Two days before the anniversary of the battle, on July 13, the thirteenth re-enactment of the Battle of Grunwald – one of the largest battles in the history of medieval Europe – took place. About 1,000 reenactors appeared on the battlefield. 609 years ago, the allied forces of the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, led by Władysław II Jagiełło and Vytautas the Great, faced the forces of the Teutonic Order, assisted by Western European knights. During the Grunwald Days, the re-enactment of the battle was accompanied by numerous attractions, including Polish Championships in Knights' Fights, Gregorian Chant Workshops, Latin Mass in the medieval rite, Archery Tournament and Scout and Tourist Song Review. Before the fights between the Polish-Lithuanian knights and the allies of the Teutonic Order began, Tatar scouts rode the battlefield. Their original costumes and horses aroused the admiration of the viewers.

A signal to start the enactment was given by shots from the bombards launched by i.a. the Minister of Agriculture, Jan Krzysztof Ardanowski and the Marshal of the Voivodeship – Gustaw Marek Brzezin. The staging scenario referred to historical events. First, it was shown how the Teutonic Knights attacked Polish border villages, then the spectators were informed about ‘wici’ that Polish deputies sent around the country which was a call to arms in the medieval Poland. Before the battle itself, Jagiełło was praying and we could see how the impatient Grand Duke Vytautas urged the king to attack the knights of the Teutonic Order. The hour-long reenactment of the battle finishes with a scene in which the dead body of Ulrich von Jungingen (in this role, invariably for years, Jarosław Struczyński) is placed on the cart and transported to be seen by His Majesty, King Władysław Jagiełło. (for years impersonated by Jacek Szymański). At the loud applause of the audience, the knights left the battlefield. Two naked swords: The Grand Master, or more precisely, the heralds of the Szczecin prince Kazimierz and the Hungarian king Zygmunt Luxemburg, who officially declared war on Poland two days earlier, came to King Jagiełło and Vytautas and handed them two naked swords. Poles perceived this gesture as arrogant as they did not know the knightly custom that had long been practiced in the west.


Photos: Marek Kalisiński


Ulrich von Jungingen was the 26th Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights, serving from 1407 to 1410. His policy of confrontation with the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and the Kingdom of Poland would spark the Polish–Lithuanian–Teutonic War and lead to disaster for his Order, and his own death, at the Battle of Grunwald. photo includes: Jarosław Struczyński.

Jagiełło did not take part in the fight, he led the battle from a small hill. At noon, Lithuanian banners began to move from the right flank, soon after them the Polish knighthood followed from the centre and left flank. "On the right flank, duke Vytautas fought with his people, with Saint George's and the front guard's banners. Shortly before the battle started, a light and warm rain fell (which washed away the dust from horse hooves. And at the very beginning of this rain, the enemy cannons, since the enemy had numerous cannons, gave a volley of stone missiles twice, but they could not cause any damage to us" – the author of "The Chronicle of the Conflict of Władysław, the King of Poland, and the Teutonic Knights in A.D. 1410" noted. The battle: After an hour of fighting, the troops of Lithuanian flank rushed to escape, and despite his powerful shout, Duke Vytautas was unable to stop them. Some of the Teutonic Knights ran in pursuit, but the others threatened the fighting Polish troops. The situation was saved by three Smolensk regiments, that remained on the battlefield and, at the cost of huge losses, gave Polish banners time to regroup. Mercenary troops from Bohemia and Moravia fled together with the Lithuanians, but under the Polish camp they managed to control their panic and returned to the battle. Victory! "There were several carts of the Teutonic army found, loaded with loops and shackles, which the Teutonic Knights brought to tie the Polish prisoners. Other wagons were found full of torches soaked in tallow and tar, as well as arrows smeared with grease and tar, which they intended to use against the defeated and escaping ones... However, following the just God's ordinance that wiped their pride, Poles forged them (Teutonic Knights) in these chains and shackles. Several thousand of enemies’ carts within a quarter of an hour were plundered by the royal army so that there was no single trace left. There were also many barrels of wine in the camp and on the Prussian carts, to which, after defeating the enemies, the royal army, weary of the fighting and summer heat, came to quench their thirst. Some knights used to quench their thirst by drawing the wine with their helmets, others with gloves, or even with shoes. But the Polish king Władysław was afraid that his army drunk with wine would become inefficient and easy to defeat... so he ordered to destroy and break the wine barrels.

Losses: The king and state dignitaries did not immediately realise the enormity of the victory. And it was spectacular. All enemy banners were captured, almost the entire elite of the Order and about 8,000 of knights and other fighting troops on the opponent's side were killed. Polish losses were insignificant, only Lithuanian troops suffered relatively bigger loss. Throughout the next day, the wounded knights were gathered from the field and the bodies of the fallen ones were buried. The body of the Grand Master was sent back to Malbork. Panic broke out in the Teutonic Order lands, some cities revolted. The situation got controlled by commander Henryk von Plauen, who did not take part in the battle. He with his troops was sent to guard the land of Kujawy. He wanted to join the main Teutonic forces during the battle, but on hearing of the defeat, he marched to Malbork. Peace: On February 1, 1411 the First Peace of Thorn was signed. Lithuania regained Samogitia and although it was to be given back after the death of Vytautas, it never happened. Poland regained the Land of Dobrzyn. The Teutonic Order had to pay 100 thousand kopas of Prague groschen of ransom for the western knights who were taken prisoners by Polish troops. However, given the magnitude of the victory, the conditions for peace seemed unfavourable. Legacy: The most important result of the war was the fact that the Teutonic Knights would gradually lose their importance in the international arena. A huge ransom, which exceeded the two-year income of the Polish king, broke the finances and economy of the Teutonic Knights. The Order was in debt until the end of its existence.


Grunwald 1410 Photos: Marek Kalisiński

on photo: Grzegorz Orenkiewicz


Photos: Marek Kalisiński

on photo: Andrzej Banaszczyk


Photo: Marek Kalisiński

Władysław II Jagiełło the Grand Duke of Lithuania (1377–1434) and then the King of Poland (1386–1434). photo includes: Przemysław Ceglewski, Jacek Szymański (Jagiełło) and Paweł Kramarz.

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

Two riders: Wiesław Wojciechowski and Piotr Szulc

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

piotr szulc

"The Grand Master Ulrich," said the first herald, "challenges thy majesty, O lord, and Prince Witold to mortal battle, and to rouse the bravery which evidently is lacking you, he sends these two naked swords". When he had said this he placed the swords at the king's feet. (…) H. Sienkiewicz Photo includes: Stanisław Szmit, Wiesław Wojciechowski, Lucjan Trzebiatowski, Przemysław Kamyk Kamiński and Piotr Szulc.

Photo: Marek Kalisiński

Ulrich, sure of victory, decided to personally lead his remaining regiments against the Polish troops. During the battle he was killed in action. King Jagiello arranged the transportation of his body to Malbork Castle.

1410 battlefield

Photos: Marek Kalisiński

The battlefield was selected by Ulrich von Jungingen, as it was perfectly suitable for carrying out unexpected manoeuvres and ambushes. As King Jagiełło, together with Witold and accompanying knights, surveyed the area in the morning of July 15, he assessed the future battlefield as extremely uncomfortable. He decided to hold off commencing the battle until noon, allowing the sun to weaken the Teutonic Knights, tightly clad in steel armour.


1410 battlefield

The battle of Grunwald was one of the largest medieval battle in Europe, lasting over six hours and ending just before sunset. The army led by the Polish King held on to their advantage on the battlefield the entire time. Crushing victory of the Polish-Lithuanian forces broke the power of the Teutonic Order and went down in history as one of the greatest victories of the Polish army. on photos: to the left: Krzysztof Górecki (since the beginning- one of the main organisers: inscenisation), to the right: Stanisław Szmit.

Defeat of the Teutonic Knights by Polish-Lithuanian army led by the Polish King Władysław Jagiełło caused enormous military and political repercussions and significantly influenced the future fate and history of Europe. Since GRUNWALD is located within the OSTRÓDA COUNTY, we strongly encourage you to visit and watch a re-enactment of this great episode in Polish history, which takes place every year around July 15.

narrated by: Anna Adamska

photography by: Janusz Krzeszowski

+48 732 741 907 110 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

meet my city: Wroclaw

Wroclaw is a beautiful and vibrant city, a truly interesting and important meeting place for visiting tourists from all over the world. In fact Wroclaw was ranked as the ‘Best European Destination’ in 2018 confirming the significance of our wonderful city. During our walking tours, overseas guests are very keen to learn about the history and culture of Wroclaw. However, the question they ask the most is, “how do you pronounce the name of your city!?” Well, after a very quick Polish language lesson, we usually agree that the word ‘Wroclove’ is the friendliest version for the non-Polish speakers to adopt. Let me introduce you to the Famous Islands of Wroclaw – the Cathedral Island and the Sand Island. This area is by far one of the most interesting place of Wroclaw and in fact the oldest part of the city.

Let me introduce you to the Famous Islands of Wroclaw – the Cathedral Island and the Sand Island. This area is by far one of the most interesting place of Wroclaw and in fact the oldest part of the city. The most prominent structure on the Cathedral Island is the Gothic Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. Do you know that the current Cathedral is actually the fifth cathedral to be built on this site? The previous Cathedrals were either destroyed by pagans and bishops who wanted to extend the existing building, or finally in the great wars. The Gothic Cathedral we see today survived well until almost the last months of World War I when in 1945, German soldiers unfortunately decided to use the cathedral as an ammunition storehouse. During the air raids, the spires of the towers collapsed onto the naves, sadly destroying the vaults. The remaining destruction was brought about by fire, leaving approximately 70% of the church completely damaged. After the war, locals considered leaving the cathedral as a permanent ruin – a monument to World War II if you will, or demolishing it completely and building a new one. In light of the city’s emotional attachment to the Cathedral, the governmental authorities of the time decided to rebuild the Cathedral and on 29/07/1951, the first holy mass was celebrated, led by Cardinal Stefan Wyszyński. There are numerous treats for lovers of architecture inside the cathedral; 14 Gothic chapels, 4 Baroque chapels and one of the biggest organs in the world, which was brought after World War II from Wroclaw's modernistic Centennial Hall. The organ can play 151 voices and has a total of 13275 pipes, with the smallest pipe being 2cm tall and the largest, made of steel and wood at a staggering 12 metres. Walking around the island, our guests have chance to discover that the Leaning Tower exists not only in Pisa but also in Wroclaw! Near the small Church of St Gilles (which is the oldest Romanesque building still in use in our city) you will find the early Renaissance Chapter House. The building attached to the Archdiocese Museum has its southern tower tilted toward the street confirming that we also have our very own Leaning Tower of Wroclaw! Close by, a beautiful brick arch called The Dumpling Gate connects the church with the old Chapter House. Legend has it that the round stone decoration on the top of the arch supposed to be the Silesian dumpling that once upon a time jumped out from the pot of the disobedient widower Konrad. His deceased wife offered him a pot full of dumplings and asked him to always leave the last dumpling in the pot in order to keep it full. Unfortunately, he forgot about his wife's request and tried to eat the last dumpling but he couldn’t put it on the spoon. The dumpling jumped out of the pot, sat on the arch and turned into a stone. It remains today as a permanent reminder to passers-by to listen to their wives. In this part of the city we also meet the Lamplighter. The first gas lanterns on the Cathedral Island were lit in 1860's. About hundred years later, the lanterns have slowly been replaced with electric street lights, sadly leaving only 2 working gas lanterns on the Cathedral Island. Thankfully, in 1982 the city council, decided to

bring back 80 working gas lanterns to this wonderful location. These days our visitors can see 103 gas lanterns and the two Lamplighters doing their job every single day. Their duties include cleaning the lantern glass windows and escaping from tourists chasing them around the island for photo opportunities! Our tour now leaves the Cathedral Island as we cross Tumski Bridge. The bridge has been used as the border for the church's jurisdiction. Up until 1818, there was a boundary post in the middle of the bridge clearly showing representatives of the secular authorities that their laws don’t apply on the holy grounds of the island. Until recently the bridge was overgrown with padlocks placed on the railings by love birds, convinced that love happens only once in a lifetime. In July 2019, the padlocks were removed permanently, however, for those who want to keep their love safe, the city council prepared a cute rescue plan. Padlocks could be collected and signed for, along with a receipt to show that it belongs to you! But just so you know, they don’t plan to collect the keys from the bottom of the river! We don’t know the exact number of padlocks that were on Tumski Bridge, only that the first batch weighed in at approximately 5 tonnes! Speaking of love, the great lover Casanova visited Wroclaw briefly in 1776. His visit lasted a mere 3 days and was thought to be very necessary as he was fleeing Warsaw after one of his ‘adventures’. Casanova, even during his short visit, found another object for his love – a 25 year-old governess. He quickly convinced her to travel further in his company and although she looked quite innocent, she was not at all pure and virtuous. Within just 2 weeks she had spent most of his money, cheated on him with a number of his friends and passed on quite a shameful sexual disease! The Sand Island, on the other side of Tumski Bridge has the biggest Gothic church in Wroclaw – the Church of Our Lady on the Sand. The church, together with the adjusted monastery was built by some rather ingenious Augustinians monks who came to live in Wroclaw in the 12th century. As the Sand Island used to be a part of the Amber route, connecting the lands of the Adriatic with the Baltic Sea, the monks made sure that everyone passing the Sand Bridge on the islanda had to pay a toll. Today, the iron Sand Bridge from 1861 is the oldest existing bridge in the city to date. Before we leave the left bank of the river, let’s have a quick look at the Market Hall, founded by the city council in 1908. This hall was built to eliminate street trade and its poor sanitary conditions and to offer prestige to the city. The outside construction often reminds visitors of a castle, but the inside was in fact built from reinforced concrete, a truly innovative process of the time, creating the absolute best place to trade for the vendors. One such vendor was Karl Denke from Munsterberg, a Prussian serial killer and cannibal from the beginning of 20th Century. From his premises in the Market Hall, Mr. Denke sold shoe laces, belts and pickled meat, which were in fact made from the flesh of his victims! With this slightly creepy story we will end our tour and invite you to meet us soon in Wroclaw! 111 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Tradition is not the worship of ashes, but the preservation of fire. Narrated by: Ania Olesińska

Photography by: Łukasz Sowiński

from the heart of Orava

In the modern world, in the era of the latest technology and inventions that make life easier, it is worth stopping for a moment to think about the ways people dealt with everyday basic household chores in the past. Without electricity, the lack of which today causes total paralysis, without running water, which is the basis of living conditions for people or without a modern kitchen with induction plates, dishwashers and other devices without which some people cannot imagine normal functioning. Someone may ask – why shall we go back to past times? Someone else may leave the subject to be developed by historians or history enthusiasts. However, the topic that we want to present has also a different dimension. The aim of the initiative undertaken in cooperation with an outstanding photographer living in Orawa in Zubrzyca Górna, Łukasz Sowiński and a folklore group "Malolipnicanie" from Lipnica Mała, was to show the everyday life of the former inhabitants of the Orava region, their beliefs, traditions, customs, annual and family rites, as well as showing everyday activities and problems faced by the people of old Orava, and thus giving them due respect for the continuous cultural

heritage, for the instilled love for the homeland and for the faith that was of great importance in the life of every Orava inhabitant. The actions taken have also an educational function and document still existing, but slowly disappearing, culture of Orava. The historical location of the Upper Orava region did not spoil the inhabitants of that time – the harsh living, field and cultivation conditions meant that they had to put in a lot of effort to feed their families. The main gainful activities of the former Orava inhabitants included shepherding, cattle breeding, growing plants, among others flax, which, as one of the few plants, gave a good yield on this difficult rocky land, and canvas produced in domestic conditions was sometimes the only source of income for many farms. The rituals and customs associated with the cycle of agricultural work were an inseparable element of the folk culture of the villages of Orava. Each type of the field works, such as ploughing, sowing, and cattle expulsion were associated with activities performed by the farmers that were believed to have power to provide good harvest. They often referred to Christian traditions while some of them were rooted deep in the times of paganism. 113 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The ceremonies accompanied also the most important events in the life of the Oravians, marking strongly their live from the moment of conception to natural death. One of the main daily activities of the former Orava housewives was the care for the cleanliness of clothes - in Orava dialect called "dziady" [ eng. paupers]. Both the clothing and the rugs or tapestries (Oravian: kobierce) women used to wash in nearby rivers or streams and carry them in buckets or washtubs. The first attempts to clean the clothes consisted of soaking them in cold water and manually rubbing the fabric against the fabric. It was noticed quickly that using this method not always guarantees removing more difficult stains, which is why in the later period they began to use "tadpoles" – wooden spade-shaped tools used to struck the fabric, arranged on a large stone or a board. Then the material was rinsed in water, thus removing dirt. The revolution was the invention of a washboard, on which the fabric was rubbed up and down.

'RAJBACKA' Rubbing on specially profiled folds, a more satisfying effect was achieved in a faster time. "Tapestries" were first soaked in water, then placed on a specially prepared bench and scrubbed with a special brush (in Oravian dialect called ‘rajbacka’) until clean. Typical housewives in Orava region, despite many activities connected with farm works, always used to make sure that clothes, especially their Sunday best, were always neat and clean. Today, we are no longer able to fully reflect the climate of those years, but at least in this smaller extend we would like to depict the former times and unforgettable, special atmosphere. ńska

Ania Olesi


“There is no creation without tradition; novelty is always a variation on the past.”

photo: Łukasz Sowiński


the past Wooden toy — “A cart pulled by horses” Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

Author: Antoni Burkat Date of production: 1960s Place of creation: Osieczany, Myślenice district Dimensions: length: 45cm, width: 23cm Museum: Museum of Independence in Myślenice Technique: sculpture, turning, polychrome Material: wood Object copyright: Museum of Independence in Myślenice

A cart pulled by wheeled horses or rocking horses used to be one of the most favourite toys for children. Nowadays, it is coming back to store shelves in a fashionable and ecological design. This wooden cart is part of a larger collection of toys from the museum in Myślenice and the object used to present the history of folk toy manufacturing in general. Folk toys are more than merely usable items as all of them have their own history and all members of a family were engaged in the production process. They were made mainly by peasants in the winter time, when they were able to carve toys because of less agricultural work.

Wooden toy — ”Bike" Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

Author: Franciszek Gucwa Date of production: 1927 Place of creation: Zborowice, Tarnów district, Małopolska Dimensions: height: 80cm, length: 96cm, diameter: wheel: 25cm Museum: The Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum in Kraków Technique: forging, cutting Material: iron, linden wood, beech wood, fir wood, hornbeam wood Object copyright: The Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum in Kraków

'A bike made of wood by a cattleman, Franciszek Gucwa. The full wheels (spoke-less) are connected with wooden ploughs. The front one has handlebars, heavily fitted with iron at the place where it is connected to the axis of the bike. The back wheel is fitted with a wheel rim. There are no pedals; there is only a horizontal stick to support the feet. The seat resembles a tailor's stool. The bike was used by boys to ride down hills. The bike was made of several kinds of wood: fir wood (the seat, both wheels, one of the wheel covers), beech (the frame, the handle bars), hornbeam wood (bike fork on the front and at the back) and lime wood (the other wheel cover)'. Tadeusz Seweryn (1894–1975) — Director of the Ethnographic Museum in Kraków

Toy “Wooden locomotive” Author: Tadeusz Matusiak Date of production: 1944 Place of creation: prisoner-of-war camp in Murzau, Germany Dimensions: height: 34cm, length: 76cm, width: 26cm Museum: Aleksander Kłosiński Museum in Kęty Technique: sculpture, forging, casting, polychrome Material: wood, metal Object copyright: Aleksander Kłosiński Museum in Kęty

ST. MARTIN'S CROISSANTS Traditionally, of

St. the


Martin’s filling






white It



November poppy
































ingredients Ingredients for yeast-puff pastry (12 large croissants): 1 glass of lukewarm milk 1 tablespoon of dry yeast (12 g) or 24 g of fresh yeast 1 egg half a teaspoon of vanilla extract 3.5 cups of wheat flour 3 tablespoons of sugar pinch of salt 225 g butter, at room temperature (30 g for the dough and 195 g for layering)



300 g white poppy 100 g marzipan mass 3/4 cup of icing sugar 100 g walnuts 100 g blanched almonds 2 tablespoons of candied orange peel 2 tablespoons of thick sour cream 18% 3 long biscuits, crushed into crumbs


and a




method: Mix wheat flour with dry yeast, add the rest of the ingredients and grind between your fingers, and finally add 30 g of melted butter. Make a dough, knead very short – only to connect the ingredients; it should remain sticky. Form a rectangle from it and wrap it tightly with foil, then cool in the fridge for about 1 hour. Place the cooled dough on a pastry table and roll it out into a 30 x 15 cm rectangle so that the shorter sides are top and bottom. The remaining amount of butter from the recipe (195 g) spread evenly on the dough (leave half a cm of margin around). Fold the 1/3 dough from the top towards the centre, then fold down the bottom part so that it covers the first one (just the way we fold a piece of paper). Stick well the edges, invert the dough by 90º (to make rolling easier) and gently roll out to a rectangle measuring 25 x 17cm using the least amount of flour for bedding. Fold again into 3 parts and chill for 45 minutes in the refrigerator (wrap the dough with food foil, so that it does not dry out). Repeat the rolling and folding process for three or more times, cooling the dough between rolling for 30 minutes. After the last rolling and folding, wrap the dough well with food foil and put in the fridge for a minimum of 5 hours, preferably overnight.

Remove from the refrigerator for 20 minutes before making croissants. Scald the nuts and poppy seeds with hot water, after 15 minutes, strain and drain. Mill the poppy seeds in the machine twice, together with almonds. Grind the marzipan mass with a mixer with powdered sugar, add the ground poppyseed with nuts and raisins, biscuit crumbs and chopped orange peel. Mix well, add cream – but just enough to get a fairly compact, but plastic mass. The mass should not be too liquid or too hard (you can regulate its consistency by gradually adding cream). Roll the croissant dough into a rectangle measuring approximately 65 x 34 cm and cut into 12 triangles (with long sides). Spread the filling, leaving a small margin on all sides of the triangle – roll up the croissants starting from the widest side, towards the apex. Place on a baking tray, cover and leave to rise for about 40 – 50 minutes or to double the volume. Heat the oven to 180ºC. Spread fried croissants with an egg whisked with milk and bake for about 20-30 minutes, until they get nicely golden. *Put on a cooling rack and still warm top with icing, sprinkle with peanuts or chopped almonds.

the legend of Poznan’s St. Martin's croissants The city lies on the Warta river. It is the capital of the Voivodeship of Wielkopolska and the see of the Archdiocese of Poznań. St. Martin was a Roman soldier. One day, while entering Amiens with the army, he noticed a beggar dressed in rags by the city gate. He cut his soldier’'s cape – his entire fortune – in two with his sword and gave half to the stranger. The curate of St. Martin's Church in Poznań retells this story every year before the parish fair gets underway. In 1891, a baker named Walenty heard the story and decided to do something good deed like St. Martin. On the night before the fair, he heard the clatter of horses’ hooves on the road outside. He looked out the doorway a saw a knight in shining old-fashioned armour on a grey horse and a horseshoe lying in the snow. This encounter inspired him to bake a horseshoe-shaped pastry with a poppy seed filling. Next morning after solemn mass, he handed out his pastries to the poor. Everybody was so taken by Walenty’s idea that these “rogals”, as these “croissants” have since come to be known, were baked every year. When he died, other bakers took up the tradition and guarded the recipe for the filling. Rogals are made of white poppy seeds, bakalie (a Polish confectionery consisting of figs, walnuts, hazelnuts, raisins, orange and lemon peel, and dried fruits) and cream. They are only baked here in Poznań and only on 11 November. So much for the legend. What is known for certain is that, in 1891, he suggested the idea of St. Martin rogals to his boss, Poznań baker Józef Melzer. The rogals were handed out to the poor after solemn mass on 11 November. These rogals are now only baked in confectioneries which have a special certificate. Poznanians consume around 300 tonnes of this delicacy every year. The entire nation associates 11 November with the Polish Independence Day celebrations. In Poznań, these celebrations run a decidedly happy course as they are associated with the name of the city’s main street – ul. Święty Marcin (St. Martin St.). After mass, a colourful procession sets off from the church below the royal castle, where the Mayor of Poznań hands over the keys of the city to St. Martin. Poznanians, in the company of the many visitors who descend on the city to participate in the St. Martin revelry, take part in a variety of performances until well into the night.


ST. ANDREW’S DAY EVE (ANDRZEJKI) November 29-30 It was believed that the night of November 29 and November 30 is suitable for magic and single girls can see their future (and their future husbands). Nowadays, it’s an opportunity for big parties and a night for future telling games. The classic one is to pour hot liquid wax through a keyhole into cold water. After the wax is solidified, the shape and its shadow illuminated on the wall determines your future. The fun is to interpret the shape. Another tradition is a shoe game. Participants take off one shoe, the shoes are lined one after the other from the wall of the room to the door. The owner of the shoe that reaches the door first is the first to get married. info by:

Place of event: Everywhere. Organise it with Polsih friends.


KATOWICE Rawa Blues Festival takes place every year at the beginning of October, in the city of Katowice, Poland. Since its very beginning in 1981, Rawa Blues became the biggest and with the time also the most recognisable blues event in Poland.For the first 10 years it was organised as a nationwide allday blues sessions in several venues. With time it evolved, becoming an international blues festival at the beginning of the 90s. Then, the organisers started to invite the world's greatest blues artists. The organisers and independent journalists claim that Rawa Blues Festival is the world’s biggest indoor blues festival. The name of Rawa comes from the river which flows through Katowice. more info:

Place of event: Spodek Hall, Katowice


TORUŃ The International Film Festival of the Art of Cinematography EnergaCAMERIMAGE is the greatest and most recognised festival dedicated to the art of cinematography and its creators – cinematographers. EnergaCAMERIMAGE contributes to the growth of cinematographers’ prestige. The unconventional format of the Festival, which awards films according to their visual, aesthetic and technical values, has turned out to be an alternative for traditional film festivals. The Festival proves to be a great forum not only for presentation but also for further development of international moviemaking. EnergaCAMERIMAGE helps young filmmakers and integrates the community of those already recognised, allowing them to explore new artistic areas.

more info:


WARSZAWA Established in 1985, the Warsaw Film Festival joined in 2009 the elite group of events recognised by the International Federation of Film Producers Associations ( as international film festivals The WFF differs from other festivals in its programme, just as Warsaw differs from other cities. Selecting the films, we always remember about our audience – native Varsovians, those working or studying in Warsaw, and those in town for a short while, for instance only for the Festival. There are new challenges ahead. Like every year, I invite you to the Festival’s latest edition in the hope that it will be a great adventure for all. more info:

Place of event: KINOTEKA at the Palace of Culture and Science, MULTIKINO ZŁOTE TARASY


KRAKÓW TIn November the cold air of Krakow will get filled with jazz music again. The tradition of organising series of jazz concerts called Zaduszki Jazzowe (Cracow Jazz All Soul's Day) in this city is over half a century long. It all started back in 1954 when some jazzmen met in a school gym on the 1st November, as this was the only free day when they could meet and play together. Since then famous jazzmen from Poland came to Krakow to share their love for jazz, often playing in private apartments. After Cracow Jazz All Soul’s Day Festival had developed for a larger scale, it also spread to other cities in Poland, and later even abroad. In 2019 you can expect plenty of jam sessions and jazz stars performing in various venues all around the city. more info:

Place of event: TBC


POZNAŃ Every year on 11th of November the city of Poznań celebrates a very special event – a name day of Święty Marcin Street! This Holiday is connected with a very popular tradition of Poznań which includes baking rogal świętomarciński (Saint Martin’s croissant). The day dedicated to Saint Martin is also the anniversary of the restoration of Poland's sovereignty – National Independence Day! This day a very colourful parade led by Saint Martin in Roman legionary’s armour starts its march among various artistic groups and performances. It's a “must see” for every person visiting Poznań in November!

Place of event: Main Squere


Two of the most famous foresters in Poland and a culture expert confront our ideas about the land of student excursions, hippies and wild nature with a real image of the Bieszczady Mountains – the area of resettlement, a forgotten civil war, political refugees, the packs of wolves, curious bears and the harsh laws of nature. We learn the stories of hermits, PRL warlords, family deserters and people who wanted to escape from the city to the forest, sunk in the smoke of the retorts. The authors take us into the real Bieszczady. Both those that are the object of our dreams of a green enclave, as well as a place that we had no idea about. Before we move to Bieszczady, giving up everything for good or only for a moment, we should get to know them first.

Dwóch najsłynniejszych leśników w Polsce i kulturoznawca konfrontują nasze wyobrażenia o krainie studenckich wypadów, hipisów i dzikiej natury z prawdziwym obrazem Bieszczadów – obszaru wysiedleń, zapomnianej wojny domowej, uciekinierów politycznych, watah wilków, ciekawskich niedźwiedzi i surowych praw natury. Poznajemy losy pustelników, PRL-owskich watażków, dezerterów rodzinnych i ludzi chcących uciec przed miastem do lasu zatopionego w dymie kopcących retort. Autorzy zabierają nas w prawdziwe Bieszczady. Zarówno te, które są obiektem naszych marzeń o zielonej enklawie, jak i do miejsca, o którym nie mieliśmy pojęcia. Zanim ruszymy w Bieszczady, rzuciwszy wszystko na zawsze lub tylko na chwilę, powinniśmy je poznać.

tekst: Kozłowski Maciej, Scelina Marcin, Nóżka Kazimierz.


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