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early Patagonian autumn. I saw the Park via the “W� walk, a 50 mile, four-day trek on sheer cliffs and rock outcroppings, by glaciers and glacial lakes, up valleys of riotous color, over glacial streams filed with crystal clear, delicious water. Hard? Unbelievably. But after walking 20 miles the first day, I was reminded that limits are usually self-imposed and barriers only need to be broken once to be broken forever. Back on the road, we turned south again, heading deeper into autumn on a two-day drive toward the bottom of the world. On

our second day, we crossed the infamous Straits of Magellan just after dawn on a ferry full of bleary-eyed truckers and continued down on an unmarked dirt road. As we drove south, the scenery became gentle: the wind-capped lakes and swift-moving rivers calmed; the violent autumnal colors mellowing to a subtle mix; the harsh peaks softened to rolling hills. We crested the last hill and the little town of Ushuaia opened before us, full of low clapboard houses around a welcoming bay, like a fishing village in the Northwest. I expected the

Toujours Mag Issue 005  

Summer issue featuring entertaining advice by Lulu Powers, design from Emily Ruddo, art by Sasha Sullivan, interios from M Design and SFA De...

Toujours Mag Issue 005  

Summer issue featuring entertaining advice by Lulu Powers, design from Emily Ruddo, art by Sasha Sullivan, interios from M Design and SFA De...

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