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toujours | 005 | bon voyage

Turning east, the flat steppe was abruptly and violently broken by jagged granite peaks, as Monte Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre filled our front windows like an erratic heart beat on a hospital monitor. We stayed in the serene and picturesque Argentine town of El Chaltén for a few days, spending the daylight hours hiking, ice climbing, glacier watching and, in one memorable instance, fording a fast-moving, icy glacial river. For a growing boomtown where many roads remain unpaved, El Chaltén restaurant’s offerings are surprisingly sophisticated: lamb pizza at Patagonicus, excellent and atmospheric with its gallery of 100-year old Patagonia photography; beer and popcorn at La Cerveceria, the local microbrewery, its walls lined with international newspapers and, ironically, out of the local brew on the day of our visit; the lick-your-plate sage and butter sauce on a lamb steak at the friendly and homey Estpa. I wanted three more days here, for more hiking, more eating and to better explore the numerous cafés, chocolaterías, artisanal shops in town and to spend another day with ice axes, climbing the artic blue walls of the Torre Glacier. Instead, we continued east and crossed the border into Chile to visit Torres Del Paine National Park, quite rightly, the most famous and famously stunning national park in South America. The Park’s beauty was exhilarating, almost prehistoric in its savage and untamed grandeur: choppy, wind-capped lakes; sharp, vertically dizzying peaks; crashing, carving glaciers; ghoulishly burnt out birch forests sitting side by side with their brilliantly emerald green counterparts that were just starting to turn scarlet and orange in the

Toujours Mag Issue 005  

Summer issue featuring entertaining advice by Lulu Powers, design from Emily Ruddo, art by Sasha Sullivan, interios from M Design and SFA De...

Toujours Mag Issue 005  

Summer issue featuring entertaining advice by Lulu Powers, design from Emily Ruddo, art by Sasha Sullivan, interios from M Design and SFA De...

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