ingredient: salicylic acid
ingredient: alpha tocopherol
alternative names: neta hydroxy acid in dermatology found in: most over-the-counter facial cleansers1 uses: Salicylic acid, a derivative of aspirin, is antimicrobial as well as anti-inflammatory. It kills bacteria and inhibits oil production in the skin in order to prevent acne. concerns: It is one of the most gentle acne products,2 but individuals with preexisting dry skin may experience more dryness or irritation after use.
alternative names: vitamin E found in: most common moisturizers and cosmetics uses: Aside from preventing water loss (and thus maintaining moisture) through the skin, vitamin E is also an important antioxidant that protects skin from free radicals, highly reactive molecules that are damaging to cells6. It works well to lock in moisture and is widely used for its moisturizing and antioxidant properties. concerns: It is a commonly used ingredient with minimal concerns.7
alternative names: n/a found in: strong or prescription acne treatments including cleansers and creams uses: Benzoyl peroxide is a stronger antibacterial than salicylic acid and is used for mild to moderate acne cases,2 often in combination with other treatments as a supplementary defense.3 concerns: Since it limits oil production, it can excessively dry and irritate skin.
ingredient: retinoids alternative names: retinol, isotretinoin found in: prescription pills, taken orally to manage acne, as well as topical treatments for both acne and aging uses: Retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A, are used in anti-acne and anti-aging products to promote cell turnover and reduce the production of sebum, an oily substance produced by glands in the skin.4 According to a 2011 study in Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, retinoids, specifically isotretinoin, are proven to be one of the most effective ways to relieve severe acne.2 concerns: Since retinoids inhibit sebum production, skin can become very dry and sensitive. In addition, the utilization of retinoids varies depending upon individual dosing needs, potential health risks, and recommendations made by a supervising physician.4
total wellness ▪ fall 2013
ingredient: alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) alternative names: glycolic acid is the most commonly used AHAs found in: chemical exfoliants and some anti-aging products uses: AHAs break down bonds between skin layers, allowing top layers to slough off.5 This is important for cell regeneration and skin permeability to nutrients and moisture. AHA improves acne by unblocking pores and allowing oils and bacteria to escape. It also reduces both hyperpigmentation and wrinkles and gives skin a more uniform texture.5 concerns: AHA is a gentle exfoliant so there is minimal risk associated with it. The only known risk is increased sensitivity to sunlight and higher risk for sunburns, which can be mediated by sunscreen. Chemical exfoliants (like AHA) are more effective in reducing acne and resurfacing because they strip more layers of skin, but this also leads to higher risk of complication, including scarring.5
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ingredient: hyaluronic acid (HA) alternative names: n/a found in: deep-moisturizing products uses: HA is a naturally occurring component of skin and is important in retaining water as well as the skin’s structure and density by regulating water balance, pressure, and ion movement. It is not as commonly used as vitamin E, but is still an effective moisturizer and skin protectant. concerns: Since HA is naturally found in skin,8 there is minimal risk associated with it.
the take away Understanding the purposes and risks of various skincare ingredients is the first step in deciding upon the best regimen. Over-the-counter products are safe, as long as they are used according to the directions. Before making any major changes, it is a good idea to consult a doctor as well. With this in mind, there are products out there to treat any number of skincare woes, and learning the language of dermatology can be beneficial to your skincare goals. tw References: 1. “Salicylic Acid (On the Skin).” nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus. (2013). 2. “Management strategies for acne vulgaris.” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. (2011). 3. “Retinoid plus antimicrobial combination treatments for acne.” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. (2011). 4. “Face to face with oral isotretinoin.” J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. (2012). 5. “Evidence and considerations in the application of chemical peels in skin disorders and aesthetic resurfacing.” J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. (2010). 6. “Vitamin A.” webmd.com. (2013). 7. “Cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation.” J Cutan Aesthet Surg. (2013). 8. “Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging.” Dermatoendocrinol. (2012).
left: left: eans/istockphoto; right: elenathewise/ istockphoto
ingredient: benzoyl peroxide