home. And for me and my wife, every guest becomes a member of our family.” After my whirlwind tour of Plovdiv, there’s only one way for me to unwind – sampling a local drop. I settle in at the open-air café on Nebet, one of Plovdiv’s seven hills. Local beers including Kamenitza and Zagorka are justly famous, but I’m eager to try ice-cold rakia. Packing a punch at over 40 per cent ABV, this herb-scented liqueur is best accompanied by a salty portion of shopska salad (Bulgaria’s most typical). With a mountain of sheep’s cheese obscuring the crisp slices of cucumber and tomato, this is definitely my kind of side dish – and it’s the perfect complement to the main event, expertly grilled pork (another Bulgarian tradition). With the sun setting over this delightfully different Eastern European city, I raise my rakia and meet the gaze of another group of travellers enjoying a drink. The smile we share seems to whisper: let’s keep this city our secret. ❚ More information on travel in Bulgaria at
bulgariatravel.org
Get crafty: a fair outside the Ethnographic Museum
NEXT WEEK Prague: Homeless tours of the Czech Republic’s capital
MIDRANGE
LUXURY
Need to load up on carbs before you hit the beers? Head to Gusto for gut-busting servings of pasta or a pizza slathered in local cheese. Pasta dishes from £3. gustobg.com/en
Be charmed by Puldin Restaurant, one of Plovdiv’s most historic eateries. The rustic cellar is the perfect complement to the hearty meat dishes on the menu. Main courses from £5. (Knyaz Tseretelev 8, tel. +359 32 631 720)
Venture into the gilded interior of Philippopolis Restaurant & Café to luxuriate in five-star service and peruse a wine list longer than your arm. philippopolis.com
drink
Pull up a chair, grab a beer and settle in at Plovdiv’s best people-watching spot. Dreams café is just by the Tsar Simeon garden and fountains, the perfect spot for a drink in the autumn sunshine. (Knyaz Aleksander 42, tel. +359 32 627 143)
The name says it all. If you like your drinks strong, fruity and muddled with mint, Mojito Bar more than delivers. Dress to impress when you sashay into this slick cocktail joint. Mojitos from £2. mojito-plovdiv.com
There’s no escape from the dance floor at house music haunt Plazma. Lose yourself in the chic monochrome décor and dance until the early hours with Plovdiv’s razorcheekboned crowd. Drinks from £3. clubplazma.com
sleep
The boutique Hostel Old Plovdiv is cosy, beautifully situated, and sociable without ruining your night’s sleep. It has won a loyal following thanks to its fabulous furnishings, hearty free breakfast and charming staff. Dorm beds from £10pn. hosteloldplovdiv.com
Say “ahh” in the luxurious spa facilities of the Noviz Hotel. This pint-sized venue has reasonably priced massage therapy and a sauna to steam away those travel aches and pains. Doubles start from £28pn. novizhotel.com
Fancy adding some colour to your visit? Each room in the plush Hotel Renaissance is characterised by a different colour scheme. The hotel itself is neatly positioned between the Old Town and the shopping precinct. Double rooms start from £50pn. renaissance-bg.com
eat
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tntMagazine.com
Photos: Facebook, Getty, Thinkstock, TNT/ Anita Isalska, Flkr-nafra cendrers
BUDGET