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April 2013 Issue 95

Na! te WltIim

an u d new zealsasn trip pa

up on top Hanging in the winterless Northland

sounds true Chill out in the stunning Milford Sound

isles of smiles Bouncing around Fiji’s islands

d o o w y l l e w o t e welcom s to From piano

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ma ealand cine Z w e N in t e bes r ing you th b e w , s d r o c o nc h

+ what’s on fiji island guide music travel photos

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EDITOR’S LETTER I know you’re probably thinking the only thing New Zealand cinema has going for it is hungry little men trawling the mountains for a piece of jewellery, but after you read our guide to Kiwi films (pg10), you’ll soon be eating those words. We also head way up north to play with some friendly cheetahs (pg28) and spend some time cruising the stunning Milford Sound (pg32). Happy travels!



Gigs 6 Pubs 8 hot shots


travel 24 competition 26 listings transport 45 listings north island 47 listings south island 56 listings travelling on 64 Trivia 66


Features Film guide, eh?


We look at some of NZ’s greatest film achievements, that aren’t LOTR related

Holy Moly



We look at Foal’s new album Holy Fire and they will be touring in October!

Winter is coming


We journey deep into Northland and come face to face with some big cats...

water wings


We cruise around Milford Sound and meet some of the water dwelling creature along the way

Island hoppin’


We look at the best and brightest that beautiful Fiji has to offer

trivial pursuits

Lace up your boots and pop in your mouth guard cause it’s a Rugby quiz




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nzDIARY ozDIARY Editorial Editor Alex Harmon Staff writer Hugh Radojev Contributors Alisdair Morton, Jahn Vannisselroy, Andrew Westbrook Intern James Besanvalle, Rosemarie Marino and Adele Rogers

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@tnt_downunder @tnt_downunder

It’s so preeeetttyyyy

Design and production Design and production manager Lisa Ferron Sales Account manager Justin Steinlauf Marketing and events executive Georgina Pengelly marketing & events Business development manager Tom Wheeler accounts Financial controller Trish Bailey

tnt MULTIMEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Publisher TNT Multimedia Limited Printed by Rural Press Pictures Getty Images | Thinkstock | TNT Images | Tourism New Zealand | Tourism Fiji cover Getty Images TNT Magazine , 126 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW, 2008, Australia General enquiries Phone +61 2 8332 7500 Fax +61 2 9690 1314 Email sales enquiries Phone +61 2 8332 7511 Email Where to get TNT

See for pick-up points

the main event Balloons over Waikato Waikato, new zealand

Look to the skies as the sun rises in the first week of April and you will see a plethora of beautifully coloured and shaped hot air balloons floating above Hamilton. It’s part of the hugely successful Balloons Over Waikato event, the premier ballooning festival in New Zealand which draws balloons, pilots and enthusiasts from around the world, attracted by its meticulous planning, friendly welcome and ideal flying conditions. Free

April 3 – 7 Waikato

Great New Zealand muster

cycling tour of New Zealand

Southern lakes fest of colour

Te Kuiti celebrates its unofficial status as shearing capital of the world as hundreds of sheep are released to pour along the spectator-lined main street. This year is sure to follow that trend with lots of entertainment as well as live sheep shearing.

One group of cyclists sets off from the tip of the North Island and another from the bottom of the South Island. Then they meet in the middle. This will be the first cycling event of its kind in the country, taking in the best scenery on offer from both Islands.

The Festival of Colour provides six days and nights of vibrant arts with a rich programme of music, theatre, dance, writers and artists, presented in venues around Wanaka and the Southern Lakes. This year will have the biggest programme yet.

April 6 Rora Street, Te Kuiti

20 – 27 April Various, New Zealand

April 16 – 21 Wanaka, Southern Lakes


TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. TNT Magazine does not assume responsibility for unsolicited submissions – material is sent at the owner’s risk. TNT Magazine accepts advertising material and other contributions in good faith, and takes no responsibility for claims, errors or omissions. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers.




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97 CUBA ST / 04 801 6970 5 HIGH ST / 09 303 2949 CASHEL MALL / 03 943 4400 355 GEORGE ST / 03 479 2949 WWW.COSMICNZ.CO.NZ 179 CUBA ST / 04 894 6971 284 K ROAD / 09 379 2509 PALMS MALL / 03 385 2949 FACEBOOK.COM/COSMICNZ 47 CUSTOMS ST / 09 914 4294 131 MANNERS ST / 04 801 6972 TWITTER.COM/COSMIC_NZ 01_NZ95p3-27upfront.indd 5

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gigLISTINGS thursday 11



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Six60 $50 Powerstation, Auckland


friday 12 Devilskin $20 Kings Arms, Auckland

saturday 13 aerosmith Forsyth Barr Stadium, Dunedin. April 24. $129 The bad boys from Boston are on their way to NZ with one of the biggest shows they’ve ever done! Dunedin

Sunday 14

Monday 1 National Jazz Festival $10 Historic Village on 17th, Tauranga

saturday 6 Paul Simon with Rufus Wainwright From $99 Forsyth Barr Stadium, Dunedin

tuesday 2 Elizabeth Wise Free The Fiddler Irish Bar, Auckland

Sunday 7 Bonnie Raitt $99 Ascension Wine Estate, Auckland

wednesday 3 Gerry and the Pacemakers From $65 Regent on Broadway, Palmerston North

Monday 8 Oleg Marshev From $20 Expressions Arts & Entertainment Centre, Upper Hutt

thursday 4 Eva Prowse Free The Dowse Art Museum, Lower Hutt

friday 5 Kitty, Daisy annd Lewis $45 Black Barn Vineyard, Havelock North

Tahuna Breaks $25 San Francisco Bath House, Wellington

tuesday 9 SOJA with Three Houses Down & Swiss $42.50 Powerstation, Auckland

wednesday 10 Eddie Gaiger Free McCarthy’s Irish Bar, Auckland


Trusted Friends Free Revelry, Auckland

Monday 15 A Journey to Peace Free Diocesan School for Girls, Auckland

tuesday 16 Fabulous Arabia $38 Queenstown Memorial Hall

wednesday 17 Coheed and Cambria $62.5 Powerhouse, Auckland

thursday 18 Dan and Chris Free The Windsor Castle, Auckland

xavier rudd Bodega. April 25. $39.50 The release of his 7th album, Spirit Bird, has taken multiinstrumentalist Xavier Rudd to sellout shows and now it’s NZ’s turn! Wellington

tuesday 23 Irish Music Session Free Florrie McGreals Irish Pub, Auckland

saturday 27 Baauer (Harlem Shake) $25 Studio, Auckland

wednesday 24 Aerosmith From $129 Forsyth Barr Stadium, Dunedin

Sunday 28 Buzzcocks $68 Kings Arms, Auckland

thursday 25 Xavier Rudd $39.50 Bodega, Wellington

Monday 29 King Tuff $20 Kings Arms, Auckland

friday 26 Mundi $10 Marahau Park Cafe, Motueka

tuesday 30 Tuesday Live Free QF Tavern, Auckland

friday 19 Raiza Biza + Friends From $5 Bar Medusa, Wellington

saturday 20 Black Sabbath $119.90 Vector Arena, Auckland

Sunday 21 Baby Loves Disco From $12 Empire Hotel, Palmerston North

black sabbath Vector Arena. April 20. $119.90 The band credited with creating heavy metal is coming to New Zealand for the first time in almost 40 years!



Monday 22 Bryan Adams From $98.28 Michael Fowler Centre, Wellington

BOOK NOW! Tahuna breaks San Francisco Bath House. April 13. TBA After a four-year hiatus, Tahuna Breaks finally returns to Kiwi’s ears and hearts with their third album titled ‘Shadow Light’. Wellington

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FrEE Rooftop Spa FrEE Sauna FrEE 2-4-1 arrival drink FrEE Tea & coffee FrEE 15 Minutes internet 16-20 Fort street, downtown auckland

FlEXiblE accommodaTion Pass


MNaid ghts

7 nights Mad new Zealand Pass

Dont forget to check out our other Mad Choice NZ hostels

Kiwi Paka Rotorua

Taupo Urban Retreat

Crash Palace Rotorua

Kiwi Paka Waitomo

Nomads Capital Wellington

Nomads Queenstown - - +64 9 300 9999 Untitled-1 1

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PUBLISTINGS aucklandpubs FU Bar 174 Queen Street, Auckland Reef Bar 71 Tamaki Drive, Mission Bay Margaritas Bar 137 Quay Street, Princes Wharf The Paddington 117 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell Masonic Tavern 29 King Edward Parade, Devonport Cock & Bull 401 Khyber Pass Road, Newmarket

25 Mount Eden Road, Eden Terrace The Kingslander 470 New North Road, Kingsland De Fontein 75-79 Tamaki Dr, Mission Bay The Occidental 6/8 Vulcan Lane, Auckland Wine Loft 67 Shortland Street, Auckland Kings Arms Tavern 59 France Street South, Newton Celsius 125 Ormiston Road, Botany Junction

The Jolly Roger Pub Unit 22, Ranger Building 190 Jack The Whiskey 210 Ponsonby Road, Ponsonby Lachlan Drive Pine Harbour Degree Gastro Bar 204 Quay Street, Auckland

Rakino’s Level 1/35 High Street, Auckland

Spy Bar Viaduct Quay 204 Quay Street, Auckland

The Clare Inn 278 Dominion Road, Mt Eden

The Library Bar 1 Pakenham Street East, The Viaduct, Auckland The Patriot Devonport 14 Victoria Road, Devonport The Kentish Hotel Level 1/5 Queen Street, Waiuku Tabac Bar 6 Mills Lane See Map 11 Mills Lane, Auckland The Bluestone Room 9-11 Durham Lane, Auckland Corner Store

Bellini Bar Hilton Hotel, Princes Wharf 147 Quay Street, Auckland Villager 606 Remuera Road, Remuera Lolabar 212 Ponsonby Road, Ponsonby, Auckland

wellingtonpubs Malthouse 39 Abel Smith Street, Te Aro Shed 5 Restaurant & Bar 48 Courtenay Place, Te Aro

follow us on The Garden Club 160 Clarendon Street, South Melbourne

14 Rees Street Minus 5 88 Beach Street

The Establishment 13 Dixon Street, Te Aro, Wellington The Blue Door 18 Buchingham Street, Arrowtown The Empire Hotel 25-29 Taranaki Street, Te Aro Slainte Irish Bar 48A Shotover Street San Francisco Bathhouse 57 Swan Street Richmond Electric Avenue 132 Courtenay Place, Te Aro Hashigo Zake 25 Taranaki Street, Te Aro Brewery Bar & Restaurant 4 Taranaki Street, Wellington The Big Kumara 60 Dixon Street, Te Aro

q’town pubs Altitude Bar & Café 49 Shotover Street Skybar 26 Camp Street Brazz On The Green 1 Athol Street Winnies The Mall 7 Ballarat Street The World Bar Restaurant & Nightclub 27 Shotover St Monty’s Bar and Restaurant 12 Church Street Surreal 7 Rees Street Pog Mahones Irish Bar


The Buddha Lounge 61B The Strand, Tauranga Scenic Cellars 37 Tuwharetoa Street, Taupo Pig & Whistle 1182 Tutanekai Street The Olde Establishment 224 Mannering Street, Tokoroa


SOL - South of Lichfield His Lordships Lane &, Poplar Lane Christchurch Parklands Tavern 6 Inwoods Road, Parklands

theUNDERGROUNDbar 1220 Hinemaru Street

nelson pubs

Vic Mac’s Brewbar 281 Trafalgar Street Micky Finn’s Irish Pub in the Village 85 Hereford Street The Free House 95 Collingwood Street Rolly Inn 2 Brookside Road, Rolleston Club Waimea 345 Lower Queen Street, Holy Grail Sports Bar Richmond 88 Worcester Street Wunderbar 19 London Street, Lyttelton Lyme Bar 817 Colombo Street The Twisted Hop 7 Parkhouse Road, Wigram The Bowl and Jack Tavern 15 Opawa Road, Opawa Base Bar & Nightclub 92 Struthers Lane

rotorua pubs

dunedin pubs The Bog Irish Bar 387 George Street Neesham Lounge Bar 678 George Street pubs Pequeno 50 Princes Street Inch Bar 8 Bank Street, Opoho

wanaka pubs

Lava Bar 1286 Arawa Street

Paradiso Cinema, Cafe & Bar 1 Ardmore Street

The Grumpy Mole Saloon 1232 Arawa Street

Lalaland Wanaka 99 Ardmore Street

BREW - Craft Beer Pub 1103 Tutanekai Street

Woodys Post Office Lane 33 Ardmore Street

Latitude 37 Bar 181-183 Maunganui Road

Barluga 33 Ardmore Street

HAPPY HOUR Buff Ugly’s

The Buffalo Club. Queenstown. Thursday Nights. Come down for the most raucous mid-week night in Queenstown, courtesy of the beautiful Buff Girls. Girls also get a free glass of bubbly. 8 Brecon St, Queenstown


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On location new zealand film guide


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top five nzfilm

Lord of the cinema Think NZ cinema is only about hairy little men searching for bling? Think again. We present you with eight choice Kiwi films Words andrew westbrook

Mention New Zealand culture and two images spring immediately to mind – namely tongue-waggling Haka-ing Maoris and the all-conquering try-scoring All Blacks. Beyond that, however… Well, it gets a little trickier. The TV certainly isn’t much to write home about, being roughly as cutting edge as the world of Aussie soaps, only somehow a little worse (Shortland Street anyone?). Yes, there’s the brilliant Flight of the Conchords, we hadn’t forgotten, but there’s a good reason the show was produced by HBO in America – Kiwi television execs decided the Wellington duo weren’t worth the cash and sent them packing to the States, a decision a few people probably choose to leave off their CV nowadays (see boxout for more). Then there’s music. Sure there’s a couple of class female indie acts, like Ladyhawke and Kimbra (think Gotye’s “Somebody That I Used To Know”), but after that you’re pretty much left with oldies Crowded House and a bunch of metal, hip-hop and roots bands that don’t exactly set the charts alight overseas. Oh, and anyone for a sing-a-long to OMC’s “How Bizarre”? There’s one area, however, in which the Kiwis punch notably above their weight – cinema. Indeed, for a country of just over four million people, tucked away at the end of the world, it’s impressive just how many New Zealanders have hit the big time on the silver screen. There’s Russell Crowe (when it suits him), Lucy Lawless (okay, maybe Xena isn’t quite big time), Sam Neill (Jurassic Park), Karl Urban (Star Trek, Dredd) and Anna Paquin (yep, Sookie from True Blood), plus A-list directors like Peter Jackson and Jane Campion. Okay, maybe that list isn’t all that long (plus both Neill and Paquin were born overseas), but the point is that the New Zealand film scene, much like the country itself, isn’t about size, but about picking a niche and doing it better than anyone else. As a result, a production comes along every few years that not only draws deep from the Kiwi mindset, but also strikes a chord with an international audience. And so, taking special care to avoid anything Middle

Earth (which you’ve either seen a million times already, are thoroughly sick of, or perhaps a bit of both), here’s the TNT guide to the eight Kiwi films you should make an extra special effort to watch while you’re in the Land of the Long White Cloud.

Once Were Warriors (1994) What’s it about? Described by the marketing suits as ‘New Zealand’s first indigenous blockbuster’, Warriors is the hard-hitting tale of a Maori family, living in Auckland, who are struggling to deal with the drunken outbursts of a violent father (Temuera Morrison), while also attempting to reconnect with their warrior roots. On location: The film, which collected a stack of festival awards from around the world, is set in the traditionally working class suburbs of Auckland, such as Otara, Onehunga and Glen Innes. Anything else? You’ll probably recognise Morrison from his numerous Hollywood bit parts as hard men short on lines, such as in the newer Star Wars films, Speed 2 and Green Lantern. Highly-rated director Lee Tamahori, meanwhile, progressed from this debut to the likes of Mulholland Falls and Die Another Day.

Boy (2010) What’s it about? Set in 1984, this touching but very funny story is centred around the experiences of a Michael Jackson-obsessed 11year-old boy (James Rolleston), who lives on an east coast farm. The Jacko fanatic also hero worships his long absent father (Taika Waititi), who returns out of the blue in search of some long buried money. On location: The movie was shot entirely in Waihau Bay, in the Bay of Plenty region of the North Island. Anything else? As well as being handed a healthy smattering ›› of gongs, Boy has the honour of being the highest

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Clockwise: Anthony Hopkins in The Fastest Indian; Sam Neill in Sleeping Dogs; Kate Winslet in Heavenly Creatures

Welcome to Wellywood

Okay, try as we might, it’s simply impossible to talk about the New Zealand film industry without giving a proper mention to The Lord of The Rings, or more precisely, Sir Peter Jackson. A notable exception to the usual brain drain that occurs whenever a Kiwi gets the big Hollywood break, Jackson has not just created one of the most profitable and award-laden film series in history, but is perhaps the single biggest player in creating a domestic movie industry now worth over $3 billion a year. Indeed, when Jackson chose to film the Tolkien classic in his backyard, he not only kick-started a massive tourism boom to the country, but helped develop a highly-skilled film workforce and joint founded a special effects studio, Weta Digital, that is now a world leader in producing Hollywood-style blockbusters. It’s no joke that the Wellington suburb Miramar is now often referred to as Wellywood. Don’t believe the world’s best CGI firm can be found in little old New Zealand? Well, how’s this for a list of its credits. As well as all Jackson’s own films (LOTR, The Hobbit, Tintin, King Kong etc), Weta can also take the credit for the likes of Avatar, Prometheus, Iron Man 3 and The Avengers, among many, many others. You can visit Weta’s free museum, the Weta Cave (, to see all sorts of props from the films.


grossing Kiwi film of all time (The LOTR films, being USfunded, don’t count). The main man is Waititi, who was writer and director, as well as one of the stars. One of the leading creative forces in New Zealand today, the Oscarnominated East Cape man also has Flight of the Conchords and The Inbetweeners directing credits to his name.

Eagle vs Shark (2007) What’s it about? This quirky romantic comedy is the tale of two socially awkward misfits (Loren Horsley and Conchords’ Jermaine Clement) who meet at a fancy dress party and gradually bond during a mission to exert revenge on a high school bully. On location: Filming was done in Porirua, at the southern end of the Kapiti Coast, and within Wellington, with the Manners Mall and Cuba Mall both being clearly recognisable. Anything else? Director and writer Taika Waititi (him again) made the two leads wear shoes that were too big for them so that they’d seem more clumsy.

The Piano (1993) What’s it about? This multi Oscar-winning emotional drama follows a mute woman (Holly Hunter), along with her daughter (Anna Paquin) and piano, as she journeys from Scotland to the frontiers of New Zealand in the 1850s, having been sold into an arranged marriage with an angst-ridden landowner (Sam Neill). On location: The production was filmed in the small coastal

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settlements, such as Piha, to the west of Auckland. To relive those epic piano on the beach scenes, head to the rugged black sands of Karekare Beach. Anything else? Among the scores of awards heaped on The Piano were a best actress Oscar for Hunter and a best screenplay Oscar for Jane Campion. The film also resulted in Campion becoming the first woman to receive the Palme d’Or at Cannes, and to be the second of just four women to receive a best director Oscar nomination. Most memorable, however, was Paquin’s Oscar for best supporting actress. Then aged just 11, the Kiwi remains the second youngest Academy winner in history (after Tatum O’Neal, for 1973’s Paper Moon, in case you were wondering).

Whale Rider (2002) What’s it about? A feisty young Maori girl (Keisha Castle-Hughes) challenges the traditionally sexist hierarchy in her Whangara tribe, claiming she is the true descendant of her people’s whale riding ancestor, Paikea. On location: The movie was shot in North Island’s Eastland region, which is home to New Zealand’s highest concentration of Maori people, and was where the original novel was set. Whangara, just north of regional capital Gisborne, is where the cameras were rolling. Anything else? Many of Castle-Hughes’ swimming scenes had to be filmed using a double, due to the 13-year-old not being a strong swimmer, despite claiming otherwise in her audition. Regardless of that, she became the youngest woman to ever be nominated for a best actress Oscar, before being pipped to the prize by Monster’s Charlize Theron.

Sleeping Dogs (1977) What’s it about? A political thriller in which a recluse (Sam Neill), living in a near future New Zealand on the brink of economic collapse, becomes a man on the run, trapped between a repressive fascist government and a group of violent guerrillas fighting to restore democracy. On location: The film takes place in Auckland and the surrounding coastal towns. Anything else? Despite having to use wooden replicas for all the weapons in the film, due to firearms restrictions at the time, Sleeping Dogs made history by becoming the first Kiwi film to gain general release in the USA.

Photos: Getty, Tourism New Zealand

Heavenly Creatures (1994) What’s it about? Marking a clear departure from director Peter Jackson’s previous gore-dominated work, Heavenly Creatures is an intense and often disturbing story of ultimately violent obsession, in which two girls (Kate Winslet and Melanie Lynskey) create their own fantasy world. On location: Almost all the locations used, in and around Christchurch, were the genuine places in which the real events occurred. Anything else? The movie, which was the debut for both Winslet and Lynskey (more recently seen as Rose in Two and a Half Men), is based on the true story of one of New

Zealand’s most infamous murder cases. The 1954 crime resulted in both the girls doing jail time, while the one played by Winslet later went on to become bestselling crime writer Anne Perry.

The World’s Fastest Indian (2005) What’s it about? The true story of New Zealander Burt Munro (Anthony Hopkins), a lifelong motorbike enthusiast, who, in his late 60s, decided to switch Invercargill for Utah’s salt flats in a bid to beat the world land speed record riding his beloved Indian. On location: Apart from the scenes based in the States, much of the movie was filmed on location on New Zealand’s South Island. Sites included Timaru, in Canterbury, plus Invercargill and Oreti Beach, in Southland. Anything else? Until overtaken by Boy, the film spent five years as New Zealand’s highest grossing movie of all time, cementing the already historic role of Aussie director Roger Donaldson (Sleeping Dogs) in the Kiwi movie industry.

Why the Conchords took flight After Frodo and Samwise, they must be just about the biggest stars to hit our screens from Kiwi shores, so why exactly were The Flight of the Conchords forced to do their robot dance (and robo boogie) away from their homeland? Indeed, having picked up a Grammy award, 10 Emmy nominations plus millions of fans, not to mention dollars, there’s no denying that, to the New Zealand TV industry, Jermaine Clement and Bret McKenzie’s comedy series will always be considered the one that got away. Even more galling must be the fact that when the big rejection decision was made, Conchords was already a proven success, in the form of a 2004 award-winning BBC Radio 2 series, which also featured Rob Brydon as a narrator and Jimmy Carr as the oddball fan. The reason, it seems, came down to cold hard cash. Despite paying the Wellington duo over $30,000 to produce a pilot, which TVNZ liked, the network then baulked at the estimated $300,000 needed to film the series, and so walked away. TVNZ public affairs spokeswoman Megan Richards told New Zealand’s Herald on Sunday: “The guys wanted an awful lot of money to make it – we couldn’t afford it. They then went overseas, where people have more money.” When asked by the same paper why Conchords regularly pokes fun at TVNZ, Clement said: “Because we had written the pilot for them. But also they’re the state broadcaster and I think they’ve got a responsibility to reflect New Zealand culture, which they don’t. They take American programmes and copy them.”

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Are you spotted in the circle?

Email us at tom@ with ‘Spotted’ in the subject line, email must include a photo of yourself! Boom - You’ve won yourself a double pass to any Big Night Out! Like us on facebook/ tntdownunder for more party pics from the night!

Big Night out in Auckland


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Photos: Getty

Mr Nice Guy: this man is perfect, apart from pilfering chicken-flavoured snacks


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A bolter from the blue In five years, Oxford band Foals have become of the biggest bands in the world, but like they say, you shouldn't overthink it

Photos: Getty

Words Hugh Radojev

With the release of their critically acclaimed third album, Holy Fire in February, Foals have confirmed their place amongst the very best British bands of recent times. Holy Fire is part of the logical sonic progression that has been notable since the band released their first album Antidotes in 2008, yet it is also a stand-alone record, brutal and beautiful in equal parts. “When we started writing, we wanted to free ourselves from the shackles of keeping things harmonious. It was informed by a confidence in the band,” said lead singer Yannis Philippakis in a recent interview with Pitchfork Magazine about the new album. “The headspace was: Let's not overthink it, let's not discuss it, let's just enjoy everything, and if things feel intuitively right, then be okay with it.” To say that it is the Oxford band’s most mature album should almost go without saying. It’s their third record, written after six years of almost constant touring, writing and performing as well as the added rigours of living with the scrutiny that comes with being successful musicians. What makes Holy Fire so terrific is how faithfully it manages to capture the sound of Foals as a live band: the light and shade of the softer tracks, but also the heaviness of the guitars, and the relentless pounding of the drums and the bass guitar. When asked whether Holy Fire better represented the way the band sounds live Philippakis said, "Yeah. It's not just the heavier songs though, like Providence and Inhaler, that have that sort of energy, but also songs like Moon and Stepson. All of them really.” This is in stark contrast to the sound of the band on their first two albums. Antidotes was full of youthful exuberance; angular and playful songs smattered with synthesizer arpeggios and alto saxophones. Much like the first jittery, knobbly-kneed steps a pony (from where the band got their name) takes, there were a few awkward stumbles but it was enthusiastic, catchy and the kids loved it. 2010’s Total Life Forever on the other hand was starker

and colder than Antidotes, but it was also a much tighter and more polished sounding collection of songs. It was less immediately gratifying, but it was better crafted and more thoughtfully put together. In short, it was better.

Let's not overthink it, let's not discuss it

While the shift between Foals' first and second albums was quite a dramatic one, it didn't seem to affect the band's popularity, certainly not negatively anyway. If anything, Total Life Forever propelled the band out of the indie fringes and into the mainstream guitar rock stratosphere. Holy Fire looks to be the record that will cement their position there.

Yannis accepts the award for Best Song at this year's NME Awards

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Can't get enough: The Oxford quintet will return to Oz in September Holy Fire actually has its creative roots based here in Australia. When the band toured in 2011 as part of the Laneway Festival they began throwing around a few ideas for the new record. “We went to the [Woronora] River with Jono Ma [Sydney musician from band Los Valentino’s],” said Yannis in an interview with Australian magazine The Quietus about this period. “We'd been trying out some early demos in the studio, but it wasn't happening so we left. We set up microphones outside, Ma set up his laptop on a wooden table and we recorded into the night.” While none of the tracks they worked on by the banks of the Woronora in Sydney’s Sutherland Shire made their way onto the finished album, it is a mark of the love Yannis, and the band as a whole, have for Australia. Having already toured Australia in January as part of the Big Day Out festivals, Foals have announced a brace of shows in late September and early October. For Australia to have a band of such stature touring twice in a year is both a pleasure and privilege. It was during their recent January tour that I last saw Foals play to a packed room at the Oxford Arts Factory in Sydney on a humid, hot summer's night. The Arts Factory’s main room was crammed to capacity and the queue at the bar was less a line and more a phalanx full of shadowy men in short sleeved shirts buttoned to the neck and tight jeans with the bottoms rolled to the ankles and women with pretty faces and short cropped hair in florally dresses and denim jackets. I can’t remember which band opened for Foals, it didn’t seem to matter at the time and it still doesn’t now. The whole evening had a kind of surreal quality to it. In terms of hype and demand for tickets, Foals could have easily


sold out two nights at much larger venues: the Enmore or The Metro Theatre, perhaps. The fact they were playing to less than 300 people made no sense whatsoever. It was wonderful though. The band opened with the muscular Prelude, which starts as a lightly strummed guitar chord looping over and over and ends in a maelstrom of thrashing guitars, wailing keyboards and pounding drums. Even crowd favourites off the band's first two albums like

That night I sweated through my shirt

Cassius, Balloons, This Orient and Miami all sounded fuller, heavier, meatier even somehow. Foals recently supported Metallica during a tour of the United States, a support slot that would have made no sense two years ago but now, in 2013 seems to make all the sense in the world. I am usually not a fan of the mosh pit; I am no jumper or shover. When I see a band play live I like to actually listen to the music as opposed to punching the guy in front of me in the head while jumping up and down on somebody else's toes. Yet that night I sweated through my shirt, jumping, pushing and dancing just like everyone else there. Foals have always been a good band, but after the release of Holy Fire they're much better than that. They're fucking unbelievable. Foals return to Australia in Sept/Oct and are playing Perth (22nd Sep), Adelaide (24 Sep), Melb (27 Sep), Sydney (Sep 28) and Brisbane (Oct 2)

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So much fake tan, so little magic

the incredible burt wonderstone FILM review by James Besanvalle Starring: Steve Carell, Steve Buscemi, Jim Carrey, Olivia Wilde | PG | 100mins

goddess Review by Adele Rogers Laura Michelle Kelly, Ronan Keating, Magda Szubanski | PG | 104 mins

Lonely housewife Elspeth Dickens is stuck on an isolated farm while her husband James works away. Starting a musical video blog, her catchy kitchen songs soon become an internet sensation and she finds herself in Sydney where an advertising executive pushes her toward fame. It’s a feel good musical about the choices you must make between fame and family. See it with your mum. 20

It takes a lot more than a disillusioning all-star cast and a charming comedy to pull a great movie out of a hat, and The Incredible Burt Wonderstone is all out of tricks. Steve Carell stars as Burt Wonderstone alongside best friend Anton Marvelton (Steve Buscemi) in this comedy about a rival magician, Steve Gray (Jim Carrey) who threatens their success. The all-star cast had so much promise, yet the lacklustre character development and shallow plotline leaves the audience wondering where all the magic went. In a dramatic sequence of events, Wonderstone loses it all and is forced into entertaining old folks at a retirement home. As he enters, he utters “So, this is where all entertainers go to die,” which couldn’t be more apt to describe this movie. The plot is salvaged in part by Olivia Wilde as the heroine, but the way her character is drawn to Wonderstone seems forced, and at times, vacant. If you don’t mind some graphic self-inflicted imagery, Jim Carrey’s character adds some comedic value to the story. This role seems made for him – bringing back outlandish comedic routines not much different from his role in The Mask. The resolution of the movie seems rushed and anticlimactic with no real depth to each event. The ending is frustratingly implausible, but does have some entertainment value. It is marketed as a comedy but -there are few laugh-worthy jokes and too many tired clichés. A word of advice: don’t take it too seriously. So, if you’re looking to conjure up a few laughs with an enchanting comedy, this one is just a whole lot of hocus-pocus. Good for: People who find cheap magic tricks charming

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NEVIS UmNetreGsY B 134 G IN W S NthEe woVIS rld’s biggest swing warm bodies FILM review by Alasdair Morton

Photos: TNT Images

Starring: Nicholas Hoult, Teresa Palmer, John Malkovich | M | 97 mins

Adelaide’s Teresa Palmer and Brit Nicholas Hoult are the starcrossed lovers in this spin on the zombie flick, which is quirky, offbeat and thoroughly heart-warming. Zombies usually play a simple, brain-munching threat in movies, but here Hoult’s R is the lead, with a voiceover discussing his life (before and after joining the undead) making him entertaining and empathetic. This is especially the case once he meets Palmer’s Jennie, one of the desperate humans intent on wiping out the Z-threat – although she sees more behind R’s eyes than flesh-craving frenzy. As a dystopian zom-rom-com, it flirts with many genres: it has the splatter count and enough re-invention of the genre rules (zombies eat brains to experience their victims’ memories) to sate fans of the former, with the one-liners and on-screen chemistry to satisfy the latter two, as the Montagues and Capulets are replaced by the living and undead. Hoult is good in a difficult role, grunting and shuffling with ever-increasing virility as he may hold the key to ending the zombocalypse, and John Malkovich is dependably solid as Palmer’s father and protector of humankind, but it is the unconventional romance at its heart though that will convince most.

Good for: Seeing multiple genres spliced together like Frankenstein

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WINNER Wood morning

Nicolas Espeisse, 29, France

Nicolas says: “This photo was taken at Sunrise in the Kauaeranga Valley. This was taken on the morning of a two day hike. My reward for waking early.”

we say: “Even the most amateur of photographer knows that the light is best during the early hours of the morning and evening. This photo is a great example of why. It’s so soft and beautiful and gives a great shadowing effect to the composition of the photo. Great work Nicolas!”



Cold as ice Lucy Wood, 35, New Zealand

lucy says: “This is a shot of the immense Fox Glacier, the awesome power of nature frozen and serene. This really is something to behold.” we say: “We don’t get a lot of black and white photos here at TNT NZ but when we get good ones we must put them up. We love this photo! Good work Lucy.”


HOT TIPS: Motion

two northland tours

Fast-moving objects make great subjects as freezing action can show us all sorts of things about the world, usually hidden from the naked eye. Poses which cannot be held in real time are particularly fun. Putting the camera on motordrive is invaluable if your reactions are not razor sharp. Use a fast shutter (sports mode) to freeze action and a slow shutter (night mode) to blur movement. Using a fill-in flash will help freeze action and inject a bit of punch to your image. Always remember the usual composition rules. Just because it’s quick, it’s no excuse to forgo technique!

Nicolas wins a Total Northland Pass for him and a friend from Magic Travellers Network (, while runnerup Lucy wins a Black Labyrinth rafting voucher from the Legendary Black Water Rafting Co ( Winners are chosen by the TNT team, with the editor’s decision being final. To enter the next Hot Shots competition, send your best travel photos (300 dpi jpegs), along with your name, age, nationality and a description, to


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Model Behaviour A YouTube proposal to Kate Upton from an American teenaged student asking her to accompany him to his prom has received an answer from the glamorous swimsuit – a definite maybe. The student in question, Jake Davidson submitted his video on YouTube listing all the things he and Kate had in common, including: “You’ve modelled in Sports Illustrated, I read Sports Illustrated'. The stunning American model reportedly tweeted young Jake, saying “You can call me Katie if you want!” before writing on her official YouTube account “How could I say no to that video? I’ll check my schedule ;)”. That might not be a yes, but it’s definitely not a no.

Photos: Thinkstock

the zebra and lion Have you heard the new joke about the three metre long sea lion who crossed the road? The funny bit isn’t so much why it crossed as it, as how... The half-tonne creature crawled out of the water at the southern Brazilian beach resort of Balneario Camboriu and found itself on the main road. Traffic ground to a halt for the best part of 20 minutes as the great beast tried to wobble and drag its way across the street. The whole way along police officers and fire fighters doused the huge animal with buckets of water to keep the thing hydrated.

Heavyweight debate The Ukrainian parliament was forced to be suspended after a brawl broke out between members of President Viktor Yanukovych’s party and the opposition far-right. The fight erupted after one of the President’s men said that the far-right were “neo-fascists” after they had booed a speech he had been giving. Perhaps the best thing about this particular brawl was the fact that current world heavy weight boxing champion and leader of the UDAR (Punch) Party, Vitaly Klitschko was present. Unfortunately he didn’t start throwing punches himself. Bit soft!

cup of warm milk We know that Queensland has water restrictions, but one Brisbane resident has taken this environmental plight a little too seriously, dousing a passing street fire with milk. Shane Fuller was delivering milk about 4.40am (AEST) on Wednesday at Spring Hill when he saw a planter box on fire on the footpath. “The flames were about half-a-metre high – some of the mulch and palms were starting to burn,” he told ABC Radio. “I didn’t have any water so I just grabbed some bottles of milk and just drenched it.” Thank moo, Mr Fuller, thank moo very much indeed.

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travellerstale a quest for a kiwi

I had one mission when I went to New Zealand, writes Susie Sunshine, and that was to meet Richie McCaw, captain of the All Blacks and the Crusaders. The short story – I met him. Now the long story. I arrived in Nelson to watch the friendly match between the Crusaders and the Hurricanes, only to find out it was sold out. No! I am crushed – until I find out there will be a ‘meet and greet’ at the local pub. I show up at 10.30pm looking hot in my black dress with a strand of red garland around my neck (the Crusaders’ colours) to make sure I will be noticed. At 11.30pm Robbie Deans the then coach shows up. I walked over and said: “Hey mate, I hear this will be your last season coaching the Crusaders?” “Ah, ya never know.” “Are the boys coming? Will Richie 24

be here?” “Yeah, they’re just havin’ a quick feed.” At 12.30am, a couple of tequila shots, several beers and some vodka later, I go back to Robbie. “Hey mate, seriously don’t joke with me. I came all the way from the States. Is Richie coming?” He chuckled: “Hah, he just walked in the door!” See ya later! And then Richie is there, right in front of me and no one else is around. I throw the garland around him and say: “Hey there, I need a picture with you!” Right after the picture I open my mouth to say how I came all the way from the US and I am a big fan... But he has already walked away. Wait, that’s it? I thought this was a meet and greet? I was pretty bummed out as the players (there were about seven there), really didn’t want to talk to anyone and just conversed amongst themselves.

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Then after only a half hour they left. So of course I followed them. I was discreet – I gave them a block head start. They went to a dance club and right outside this group of girls walked by and yelled something. One of the guys said something back and the girls yelled some more shite and said something about Dan Carter. By this time I’m close to the guys and mad at these stupid girls so I yelled: “You don’t even know what you’re talking about! Dan didn’t even play! He pulled a calf muscle, he isn’t even here.” But he is there, and he is right in front of me. “Hi, nice to meet you (I shake Dan’s hand). How’s the calf muscle?” “Uh, fine.” “Good, I’m looking forward to seeing you play this year.” I’m so embarrassed I walk away around the block! About 10 minutes later though, I go back to the club just as Dan is walking outside. I ask him for a picture but he quickly turns around and goes back inside. At this point, one of the other guys came up to me and said: “Hey, why don’t you leave these guys alone.” I told him I only wanted a picture with Dan, and I came all the way from the States to see these guys! Now I’m really sad. It must have shown because this girl comes up to me and asks what’s wrong. She decides to take my camera and try to get a picture. But she comes back and says they don’t want pictures taken. Her boyfriend rocks up and decides he will try, but comes back with the same result. Uggh! I hang around a little while longer thinking that once Richie sees my awesome dance moves that will lure him on to the floor. Uh yeah, that didn’t happen. I leave, and as I do some guy I met earlier runs after me and offers to walk me home. I cap the night by crying on his shoulder because I’m so disappointed. Obviously if Richie would have talked to me, he would have found out how cool I was and taken me back to his hotel room, right? Or at least that’s what I was hoping would happen! Oh well, I did accomplish my mission!

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Seen atravel deal you’d liketo share? !!! re!! Sha

seen a travel deal while in New Zealand that you’d like to share? Email with details of any amazing deals you’ve taken advantage of while in the Land of the Long White Cloud! The backpacking comunity is all about sharing and caring! Let us at TNT in on the secret and we will make sure we spread the love! special offer

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how to enter

Go to and click on the WIN page. See webpage for terms and conditions. Winners will be selected at random.

Win thE ULTIMATE ticket to ride with

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Travel around New Zealand with our

So you want to see the whole of New Zealand but you don’t have the wheels to traverse the land of the long white cloud? Well, you could hire a van (you’ll probably get lost), you could fly (you’ll miss the best bits), you could even cycle (but who has that much time?). We think the best way to get around is with an unlimited bus pass.*

With a bus pass you’ll have the freedom to travel the Kiwi network to 250 different locations. Passes are valid for 12 months and you can book your trips as you travel. There are daily departures and it’s ridiculously easy to book your trips online. Your trip will be sweet as bru!


And that’s where we come in. TNT have teamed up with to offer one lucky reader and a mate the golden ticket of a lifetime worth $597 each.

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See Rotorua

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Northland region north island


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On top of the world Head to the winterless north for a taste of adventure. The Northland region will throw in a little danger for good measure Words Jahn Vannisselroy

I’m not the biggest fan of heights, yet here I am dangling from a wire rope 10m above stunning native ferns in Northland. It’s all about perspective and I’m certainly getting a different one here. Usually most thrilling experiences only offer you another view for a few seconds (think rollercoasters, bungy jumps) but here I can meander along all day, not a care in the world except for making sure my footing is in the right place. I’m at the Northland Adventure Forest and I’ve just discovered the loss of caution can be humbling. I quickly find out that getting too complacent could have embarrassing side effects. While completely safe (thanks to always being attached to at least one cravat), I push my luck on a rope bridge, its instability causing me to slip and rely on my reflexes to grab hold of the thin grey wire responsible for my safety. It’s a rude wake-up call, but at the same time, pushing and finding your limits is what this is all about. Seven circuits, 24 flying foxes (some travelling at 10m a second) and more than 60 activities up to 12m high make for a great day out. The first course (Discovery) is easy enough, but the second (Challenge), third (Adventure) and fourth (Adrenaline), which include a huge spider web, Tarzan jump, ‘wooblie brudges’, a huge slide and a skateboard meters above the ground, progressively get more testing. Navigating the course requires the skill of a simian and the nerve of a trapeze artist. Upon completion, every muscle in my body feels as if it’s been in action. And then I realise, apart from the sound of my own voice either giving into doubt or pushing me along and the satisfied whoop of those who have already made it, the only noise I’ve heard all day is the constant buzzing of the cicadas. This, truly, is the best way to get high.

It’s feeding time and the 33 big cats are hungry

province like the back of his hand. I meet him at Ngunguru, a small community 26km to Whangarei’s south west. It’s name means ‘rumbling tides’. Heading off from Ngunguru shore, we make our way through the harbour, our paddles soon cutting a swathe though the glassy waters. Out of the calm and intothe rougher elements, I can see the rumbling tide in the distance, hammering the mouth of the estuary. A lone female kayaker paddles by, no life jacket, but

Return of the kayak New Zealand’s made up of islands so there’s plenty of water to get out on. Some of the country’s best kayaking is found in Northland. And Northland’s main kayaking man in Mark Garry, a longtime local who knows the waters of the

The smallest octagonal chapel in NZ

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performing a perfect stroke. Mark shakes his head in disbelief. He’s an educator when he’s not on the water and has given me the best safety briefing I’ve ever had. He’s aware of all the dangers (potential and actual) and has made sure I am too. As we approach the breakers, Mark has everything under control, leading the way. My stroke is quickly in sync with my use of the rudder and we plow on, heading wide to avoid the waves that pound the harbour mouth. In no time, we’re beyond the breakers and in cruise control, whirring atop the water, me valiantly trying to mirror Mark’s fluid, consistent strokes. I keep up, so I must be doing OK. However, out of the corner of my eye I spot a huge shifting mass of water. Mark’s already seen it and senses my hesitation. “Don’t worry, they won’t break on us.” And he’s right. “The water gets a bit shallower here, that’s why they come up,” he explains as I roll over the top of the swell. As we head near Goat Island, Mark introduces me to what he calls ‘threading the needle’, navigating our way between a gap between the island and a rocky outcrop to head onto the pure golden sands of Whakarewa Bay. It’s seems as if though the waves will break on top of me, but I take heart in Mark’s laidback confidence and he guides us through safely. On the beach, it’s soon apparent Goat Island is an unsullied slice of paradise. If you’ve seen The Blue Lagoon or perhaps Danny Boyle’s The Beach, you’ll have an idea of what I’m amongst. The type of surrounding that people come to New Zealand for: untouched golden beaches, native trees and (apart from a family camping on a hill fifty metres from shore) splendid isolation. Mark brews up a strong coffee and we look out over towards the sandspit that was once threatened by development but saved due to a rearguard defence by locals. Thank goodness for the locals, I think, when we paddle back to Ngunguru. This place wouldn’t be the same with man’s pawprint all over it. Mark leads me through the waves again, and we surf back into the calm, the waves only losing power when they want to, not when they’re told to. nzseakayaking.

chiding me to stay low and remember my arm. It works like a dream. Satisfied, Paco paddles with me out the back, to where the big ones are. It’s too hard to duck dive the big foamies, but the old eskimo roll makes sure I’m not too nailed. In between sets, Paco explains line-up etiquette, not snaking other surfers and respecting the locals while also getting a wave for yourself. I get wave after wave, getting progressively braver – but as a big onshore lump arrives and I try to ride it, I hear the whoops from those watching on the beach turn to ‘ooohs’ as I go over the falls and am hammered into the surface. “You alright?” Paco asks when I surface. I want to reply, but I just simply nod. I’m too busy paddling out the back to get more waves. Paco has taught me well.

Kiwi North It’s been a good while since I’ve been acquainted with New Zealand’s native bird, but I soon come across the perfect spot. Kiwi North is home of Whangarei’s Museum, Kiwi House & Heritage Park. It is situated on a 25-hectare historic farm in Maunu, the hilly outer suburbs of Whangarei overlooking the harbour. I could spend hours watching the two resident kiwis, Manuiti and Kura, as they fossick around in their $1.2million climate-controlled enclosure that almost perfectly mimics the birds’ natural habitat. They’re a funny old pair, snuffling blindly for grubs, as their other mate Ruru, a morepork, flutters above them. If you’ve never seen a kiwi before, this is the place to come. However, it’s not all about the birds here. There’s a range of geckos – the Auckland and Northland green and the Forest - and the tuatara, the last living relative of the dinosaur. I also get the chance to see how people used to live when the site’s original owner, Dr Alexander Clarke, and his family arrived from England in the 1850s and built a kauri

Out on the ocean Further on, past Ngururu, through Tutukaka, is the beautiful Sandy Bay, where people of all abilities arrive from all over the world to learn to surf with Simon Egginton and his team of instructors from Tutukaka Surf Experience. Sandy Bay offers a beach break, working best in an east nor’east swell, with waves peeling to the right. Because water temperatures are up in the 20s during summer, it means surfers can head out in a springsuit, or – better still – just a pair of boardies. My coach for my ‘progression session’ is Paco Divers, a former NZ junior champion and one of the most relaxed people you’re likely to meet. I don’t get to the beach as often as I’d like so I’m frothing at the opportunity to get a wave in. We head straight out and from my first wave, the eagle-eyed Paco has spotted adjustment to my technique. My pop-up is good and I’ve got the balance, but my turns are nowhere good enough. “Get your arm out, look over your shoulder and point to where you want to turn. Your board will follow.” Sure enough, on the next wave, I’m speeding along the face, trying to remember all the advice as Paco surfs beside, gently 30

The Auckland green gecko

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Surf’s up homestead. The home has been preserved as it once was, even down to the wallpaper and the old man’s wheelchair. There’s also the Orauaiti Chapel, believed to have be the smallest octagonal chapel in New Zealand. It’s made from a single Kauri log and still plays host to weddings. It’s such a special spot that couples have come here one year and then returned the next to tie the not. And speaking of the old ball and chain, there’s also the chance to sit in the former Whangarei Women’s jail and imagine what life on the other side of the law was like in early 1900. You can even get locked in if you like. But jail’s got nothing on the Kiwi North medical museum, a collection of hundreds of surgical implements scavenged together since Seventies by specialist anaesthetist John Swinney. I shudder at the thought of how bodies were invaded by these primitive instruments including paddles for shock therapy, forceps and the torture implements employed by dentists of yesteryear. There’s also a museum with exhibits revealing the history of Northland and with Kiwi North set on 25 hectares of rolling, volcanic farmland, forest and bush, with views that overlook the city of Whangarei and the Whangarei Heads, next time I’m here I’ll be bringing a picnic and spending the entire day.

Kingdom of Zion There’s a tension in the air at the Kingdom of Zion in Kamo, Northland. It’s feeding time and the 33 big cats are hungry. There’s a tension, too, inside the cheetah cage. It’s emanating from me, a cocktail of fear and adrenaline, as I traipse gingerly behind keeper Graham, eyeing up Kenya and Thabo, the park’s two fastest residents. “Whatever you do, don’t run,” Graham has warned. He leads us in a line far away for the door, the sound of it shutting still rattling around my ear canal.

The cage’s two occupants trot alongside, as tall as alsatians but far more wiry, a blend of perfect sinew and spots. Graham feeds Kenya first, the male’s feeding spot atop a rock the ideal place for me to stroke him as he hungrily wolfs down his share of cow. Then it’s time to get a bit more involved. I head over to the fence where Thabo is being fed and dip into the bucket. Graham tells me I’m doing it wrong when I simply drop the piece into the hungry cat’s mouth and she hisses her displeasure. They like to be fed one way and that’s to delicately take it from your hand. There’s another hiss of annoyance at something and it’s then I take a mental note of how long it would take me to scramble to the top of the 10ft high wire fence which contains these two. Could cheetahs really jump that high? There’s a group of Danish tourists on the other side, murmuring their approval at my bravery, but the clicking and beeping of their cameras scarcely registers as I constantly move my eyes from Kenya to Thabo and back again. There’s no posing in the cheetah cage. “Make sure you save us enough meat to get out of here,” I suggest to Graham, but the cats bellies are starting to bulge and they have a satisfied aura. It’s not until (after a final, hestitant pat) I’ve heard the door safely click behind me, that I’m able to begin to calm down. Only on the outside am I able to reflect on what is one of the experiences of my lifetime. It’s not everyday you come face to face with a wild animal and survive. This is a tale I’ll tell my grandchildren. The writer was hosted by Destination Northland (northlandnz. com) and travelled in a Deuce motorhome from Mighty Campers. Prices start at $318 for five-day hire. ( He also stayed at TutukakaHoliday Park ( and Whangarei Top 10 Holiday Park (

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Milford Sound Southland


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Sounds like a plan The breathtaking journey through the Fiordland National Park to Milford Sound is one of New Zealand’s absolute must-dos Words alex scrivenger

Cautiously, I put my ear to the porthole. There it is again: the huffing, puffing sounds of heavy breathing and the softest slap of water, just a couple of metres away in the inky blackness. I pad softly up the stairs into the cosy saloon where my travel buddies are polishing off a bottle of merlot while playing a game of Trivial Pursuit. “Seals!” I whisper excitedly, jabbing my finger at the darkness outside. Within 10 seconds, we’re standing on deck, huddled in our coats and peering vainly into the utter blackness. The seals are attracted to our anchor lights. Or rather, Milford Sound’s fish are attracted to our anchor lights and the seals are attracted to the fish. As our eyes adjust, we can just make out two or three fur seals – softly chomping on the odd unfortunate fish. Slightly visible even in the darkness, mile-high walls of granite rear vertically out of the black, glassy waters of the Sound, split by dozens of plunging waterfalls. We’d seen it all from the deck as the sun set earlier and had even launched the on-board kayaks from the rear of the ship for a twilight paddle in the gathering dusk. I had never seen a landscape like it and today had been
a big day for landscapes.

The road from Te Anau to Milford Sound is ridiculous

waterways and large, rounded peaks. As Tu worked his way up the coast, his craftsmanship improved until he created his masterpiece, Piopiotahi (Milford Sound), with jagged, sharp mountaintops as far as the eye can see. These perfect, pointy peaks bear a precarious load of blueish snow and ice, ready to come crashing down at the slightest provocation. Endless mossy forests the size of Israel stretch silently across the lower slopes, perhaps harbouring mysterious species long thought extinct. None of these areas

Chopping it up The road from Te Anau to Milford Sound is just ridiculous. Sure, I’ve seen mountains before, and waterfalls, and lakes and mossy forests. But nothing on this scale. The Milford Road winds along hairpin bends between sheer rock-faces. Waterfalls plunge toward it from heights three-times higher than the Niagara Falls, sending clouds of spray cantering across the landscape. It’s all located in Fiordland National Park, a beautiful World Heritage-listed area in the south-west of New Zealand’s South Island. Maori legend has it that the godly figure of Tu-te-raki-whanoa was given the task of creating the Fiordland coast with his mighty axe, Te Hamo. At first, he was still learning his chopping skills so the fiords to the south, including Doubtful Sound, were created with wide

Dropping anchor for the night

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The adventurous way to travel were explored until the late 1800s and much of it still hasn’t been fully charted. The Homer Tunnel is a landmark – more than a kilometre long, its walls are of rough-hewn rock, complete with dripping water and glow-worms. It’s pretty steep, dark and quite snug, and when you finally emerge into the light, the whole landscape has totally changed. Gone are the forests; it’s all bare rock, cliffs and snow. There’s no way you could get beyond this solid rock ridge without the tunnel. It must have changed everything for the locals when it was finished in the 1950s. It meant they had a through-road for the first time, the only alternative to the gruelling four-day Milford Track, which is now New Zealand’s most popular walk and booked solid, months in advance.

You will get wet We arrive at the miniscule settlement of Milford and look upon the grand finale – the Sound itself – the perfect cone of Mitre Peak reflected in its mirror-like waters. How could that perfectly triangular mountain be so clearly reflected in the deep, dark glassy water at its base? Who painted in that airbrushed wisp of cloud? The timing of the salmon-pink shaft of sunset hitting that thick, untouched snowcap is suspiciously spot-on. And whoever heard of a 150-metre waterfall freefalling straight off the edge of a cliff and into the seawater? None of it seems real. Now, a few hours later, we find ourselves snugly anchored in a lonely bay, an extraordinary day rounded off by an impromptu visit from the friendly seals. Just before daybreak, I wake to see the landscape sliding past my porthole and rush out onto the rain-soaked deck just in time to see the bow approaching the most enormous waterfall – the 150m Stirling Falls, swollen from a night of rain. It shoots off the edge of the cliff in two massive jets, then tumbles, endlessly in freefall, taking several seconds


to hit the water, sending a dense cloud of cold spray all over the boat and into our faces. We are only a few metres from the base of the waterfall – whereas, after a rainy period, boats can’t get within 50 metres of it, such is the fury of the impact zone. This is followed by a comparatively leisurely cruise into the swells of the Tasman Sea, waves breaking over the bow and the rainclouds parting to admit a little blue sky into our morning. On the way back we see more seals; young ones cavorting on the rocks and frolicking in the water after fish. I would happily stay on that boat for a week. We’ve seen both sides of Milford – the setting of a glorious sunny day, and the majesty of the thousand waterfalls that spring into existence only during the rain. The best of both worlds amid the world’s very best.

Rugged landscape surrounds the Sound

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It’s a hard place to top Big brother, little brother We wouldn’t for a moment try and deter you from visiting Milford Sound, but lean in, we’ll whisper a little secret. Milford has a bigger, quieter, very attractive and much more isolated brother, Doubtful Sound. Although it lacks the dramatic high peaks of Milford, Doubtful boasts rolling bushland, heaps of wildlife and is so peaceful that locals call it “the sound of silence”. Like Milford, Doubtful is home to pods of dusky and bottlenose dolphins, penguins, New Zealand fur seals, but, crucially, not boat-loads of other tourists. There’s what must be the country’s most isolated hostel – it doesn’t even have a telephone. Other than relaxing in blissful isolation, there’s quite a bit to do. You can go fishing, bushwalking or set out on the water in a dingy. It’s three-times longer and has 10-times the surface area of Milford but with half the amount of visitors. One of the reasons might be that it requires quite a bit of effort to get to. It’s inaccessible by road, so to get there you’ll need to take a boat across Lake Manapouri, then a bus-ride over Wilmot Pass, from where you take a threehour boat cruise out into the awe-inspiring Sound. Doubtful Sound was given its name by Captain Cook, who, when out discovering, refused to sail into the Sound as it was doubtful he would be able to sail back out again. Undeniably, it has a more pleasant ring than ‘I’m The Boss And I’m Not F*cking Sailing In There Sound’. Doubtful is more of a slow burner in the ‘wow’ stakes in that, as you pull away from Deep Basin, its beauty is still
to be revealed. Its delights some unfold and become visible to the observer piece-by-piece as the boat turns another corner to showcase another imposing rock formation poking out of the water. The green ranges are pockmarked with grey scars, evidence of ‘tree-valanches’ caused either by heavy rain or all too frequent earthquakes.




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Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands fiji


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Another day in paradise Island-hopping in Fiji is one of the most relaxing holidays you’ll ever have and is a perfect way to banish the winter blues Words tom sturrock

The coconut leaves seem certain to break But, as though not yet satisfied with his apart but Mali’s hands work them expertly, WHEN TO GO: It’s the perfect demonstration of the humble coconut’s weaving them between one another in a time to go – any time between now versatility, Mali shows me how part of the shell deceptively strong tapestry that forms the can be used as a hairbrush and how the stringy and the end of the year, although basin of our traditional Fijian bushman’s pieces of the husk can be roped together into it starts to get a bit muggy later basket. Some of the leaves splinter slightly on. And you probably want to avoid string strong enough to bind the walls of huts as he forces them into place but they’re together. After a week travelling through Fiji’s the school holidays. reinforced by the combined strength of the CURRENCY: Fijian dollar. tropics, I’m reminded once again that these lush, green carapace already built around islands are full of surprises. $1 = 1.85 FJD them. I finish the second side of the basket ACCOMMODATION: Make Love songs and broken thongs – with only the occasional pointer from your selections based on which Mali – and then begin to tie off the loose islands you want to visit. Check out A week earlier, my island-hopping adventure ends to make sure the basket is enclosed. p64 for more information or go to begins in Nadi, a coastal town on the western Mali shows me once, twice, three times: edge of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main island. After “It’s just like plaiting your girlfriend’s hair – SEE: For an overview of what Fiji boarding the Yasawa Flyer in Port Denarau, now you finish the job.” has to offer, go to we’re soon zooming through the open sea, I’m terrible at it. The old left-to-middle, Or for more information on the heading north toward the island of Waya right-to-middle pattern is familiar enough, islands, see Lailai, the first port in our whistle-stop tour. but the constant gathering of extra strands, or There, the Ecohaven resort is one of the few to be dragged in with one hand and then in Fiji owned entirely by the local villagers – the other, leaves me all fingers and thumbs. Eventually, we get there, tieing the ends off and then creating the basket’s Smiling is mandatory opening by hacking the fibrous stalk away with a machete to leave the smart, functional finished product. “You fill it with yams, tell your story and you go home,” Mali grins, holding the basket casually over one shoulder. Next is coconut-carving. With machete still in hand, Mali chips away the hard shell, exposing the husk, before impaling the coconut on sharpened stick, custom-made for this very exercise. I do my best to tear away the coconut’s thick inner shell but it proves a struggle, raising peals of laughter from the resort’s watching staff. At Funky Fish on Fiji’s Malolo Island, watching coconuts leave travellers utterly defeated is top-shelf matinee entertainment. Finally, the husk comes away in small, inelegant chunks and we’re into the tasty part of the coconut. Mali chops it up into cubes and mixes it with a plate of salt and garlic, which he assures me is perfect for marinating fish.

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most are part-owned and still dependent on some foreign investment. Upon our arrival – we coast ashore in a battered metal dinghy – the staff gather on the beach to sing a Fijian welcome song, their voices raised, accompanied by a small ukulele. Accommodation on Fiji’s islands is often billed as a resort but it actually sells many of the establishments short – they are fairly basic but no less comfortable and have far more charm than any sparkling four-star chain hotel. The Ecohaven, for its part, is made up of huts – bures, in Fiji – dotted along a vast lawn overlooking a pristine beachfront. After settling in, I introduce myself to Jerry, an enormous Fijian who runs the activity shack – he’s quite a sight down there, sporting a pencil-thin moustache, resplendent in his bright-red, XXXL Hawaiian shirt, seemingly filling every inch of space behind his desk. After locking me in for an afternoon hike to the island’s summit, Jerry offers his own take on the relaxed pace on Waya Lailai. “All the villagers, they used to work six days a week – fishing, going to the mainland, rest on Sunday and then do it all again,” he explains, leaning back in a creaking chair. “But now we have a resort, we have big smiles and just play the guitar all day; ‘Bula’ when tourists come.” The hike to the island’s summit is considerably harder work – it is, admittedly, mostly my fault, my decision to attempt the hike wearing thongs soon proving foolhardy. Following several days of heavy rain before our arrival, the ground is slick and spongey and, five minutes in, I suffer a disastrous double blow-out and am forced to discard the pair of busted flip-flops. Still, even in bare feet, the hike through the island’s hinterland, up its rugged, rocky slopes and through its pockets of thick jungle is worth it for the exquisite views from atop its jagged escarpment; the surrounding islands visible against the pinkish-orange sunset smeared across an uncluttered sky. The expression ‘Fiji time’ may encapsulate the unhurried 38

approach in this part of the world: if the boat’s running late or you want to take a nap – no problem, everyone’s on Fiji time. Relax. And it’s great, but on the second leg of the hike, the way back down, I discover that, although schedules might be flexible on Fiji time, it still gets dark at about 6pm. I finally return to camp, under the cover of darkness, my legs coated in mud almost to the knee, having well and truly earned my dinner. Mary, who runs the resort’s kitchen, has, since lunch, decided I look like Prince William – she appears to mean it

Hiking to the summit can cause flip flop casualties

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as a compliment but I remain unconvinced – so there’s no chance of me slinking in unnoticed. “Prince Weel-yam,” she exclaims loudly. “Where have you been?” I mutter something about Fiji time and start drinking. In the corner, some of the staff have struck up a barbershop quartet; big Jerry plays a dinky little guitar, dwarfed in his hands, like a bear strumming a fiddle, while his mates sing. At the intermission, he sidles over and I ask him to translate the last song’s lyrics. “It’s saying, ‘if you cut my heart open, your photo would be inside’,” Jerry explains, suddenly very serious. “It’s a love song. They’re all love songs.” And so my first night in the Fijian islands, warm with island ballads, closes in around me, barefoot, bedraggled and with a belly full of beer.

Voluntouring in the Fiji Islands! “Amazing! Stunning location and it’s a fantastic feeling lending a hand where it’s needed. It was cool to work alongside the locals and get to see how our work directly benefited them. Top it all off with a drink on the beach!” Gemma, Sydney, NSW

Some of the staff have struck up a barbershop quartet

Explore, adventure and lend a hand voluntouring in the Fiji islands from one week or more.

Support manta-ray protection

Lend a hand with specialist global interest groups to protect manta-rays and marine life. Take part in the marine conservation programme.

A place to party

Maintain water harvesting systems

There is an enjoyable rhythm to island-hopping in Fiji. The region’s main boat companies provide a hop-on, hop-off service, the boats tracking north from the mainland in the morning, all the way to the top of the Yasawas, before turning around and coming south in the afternoon, back past the Mamanucas before docking again at Port Denarau. Travellers simply hitch a ride as far as they want to go; when the ferry draws close to each new island it drops anchor before motorboats, driven by staff at each resort, arrive to

Make a difference by constructing and repairing water harvesting systems; and educating villagers on water conservation. Take part in the sustainable communities programme.

Support teachers in an island school

Alongside teachers, help children aged 3 to 13 with sport, play and extra curricular activities. Take part in the aachildren & schools education programme.

Do something more with your vacation... If a holiday in the Fiji Islands, combined with lending a helping hand to people in need sounds like you, book a Vinaka Fiji Volunteering programme, it will be the highlight of your year.


For full details of holiday & volunteering programmes, accommodation and activities visit our website or facebook. com/vinakafiji or call +679 675 0500

GI VE BA CK , LAY BA CK AAF3982 TNT NZ - FIJI HalfPg.indd 1

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Get to the chopper!

collect disembarking guests and carry them back to shore. All that remains is for the island-hoppers to choose where they want to spend their time and, broadly speaking, the islands are divided into places to party and quieter, more low-key places that are big with couples. As it happens, my next stop, the Mantaray, on Nanuya Balavu, is a place to party. Even in a period that is generally slower for Fijian tourism, the Mantaray is often full, a mixture of Brits, Canadians, Americans, Aussies, Kiwis and Europeans arriving in droves to spend a few nights in its neat bures, some on stilts in the jungle, others mounted just metres from the sea. The beach bar is where much of the action happens at the Mantaray, the open-fronted pavilion, surrounded by benches and hammocks, is an inviting place to share a Fiji Bitter and a conversation with fellow travellers. It’s also where punters gather for daily activities. I immediately sign up for the kayaking, which takes us out from the resort’s sheltered inlet to a deserted beach – not exactly a rarity in Fiji – on the other side of the water. There, after dragging our kayaks ashore, we snorkel on coral reefs and skim stones. Before sunset, a boat from the resort comes past to collect passengers for the sunset cruise. It sounds terribly genteel but there’s neither a dinner jacket nor an hors d’oeuvre in sight. Instead, as dusk descends, we find ourselves in the open sea, bobbing in tyre tubes, collecting beers from a full esky. 40

The signature activity, though, is, as the resort’s name suggests, swimming with the island’s resident mantarays. The timing of their presence is unpredictable but as soon as they’re sighted offshore a call goes around and the resort’s drums begin to beat, signalling that a swimming expedition is about to depart. The rays are alien-looking creatures with ‘wingspans’ of several metres, wide-spaced eyes and weird, gawping mouths that afford a line of sight straight down their gullets. Their movement through the water – during

After dark the fun and games only escalate

their visit to a so-called cleaning station, where smaller fish nibble at their skin and gills, clearing away parasites – looks completely effortless, arcing loops completed without the rays perceptibly moving a single muscle. And, after dark, the fun and games only escalate – Nesi, the resort’s appointed master of ceremonies, herds the guests down from the dining hall to the beach where a limbo contest begins proceedings. Competitors are divided up by nationality, raising the stakes and ensuring all involved

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treat the contest with deadly seriousness. After all, bragging rights are on the line. After the limbo, won, perhaps unsurprisingly, by the sole Brazilian entrant, Nesi introduces a new game, played in pairs, where one partner must lower the other while holding their hand, allowing them to push a small stone as far along the ground as they can, before hauling them back to their feet without collapsing in a tangled pile. It’s a bizarre spectacle, with all manner of tactics employed, before Nesi weighs in at the last minute with an expert display to claim first place. Last of all is the notorious ‘box game’, in which competitors, standing on one leg, take it in turns to bend down and lift a cardboard box off the ground using only their teeth. After each round, an inch or so of cardboard is torn from the box, making it ever harder to retrieve. After some impressive efforts, Nesi once again confounds the watching throng by nimbly doubling over, barely even wobbling, and lifting the remaining sliver of cardboard off the deck. It’s freakish, but never in doubt.

Arriving at Tavewa Island...

The hunter and the hunted On Tavewa Island, the northern-most destination on my trip, the staff at Coral View resort make up for the fact that I visit in a traditionally quieter period by singing almost constantly for the extent of my stay. There is the welcome song – which is continued all the way up from

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In the company of beasts

the beach and into the foyer – and the farewell song, which gets a couple of runs, and a stack of other island ditties in between. The Fijians, there can be no mistaking, love to sing. Tavewa is remarkable among the Fiji islands for the variety and vivacity of its marine life. The resort, on a narrow peninsula, is a short boat ride from the aptly named blue lagoon, a stunning, secluded alcove where radiantly coloured fish dart in and out of the brilliant coral. Further afield, where the sea floor falls away into yawning, reef-lined caverns, I detect a flicker of movement

He kills it with his bare hands, smashing and tearing its head apart

out of the corner of my eye. When I look more closely, there’s no mistaking the grey skin and telltale dorsal fin – there’s a bloody shark about 20 metres from me. It’s not too big, I tell myself, nothing to worry about. “What kind of sharks are down there?”, I ask our skipper, known only as Mr S, once back in the safety of the bow. “They’re just reef sharks,” he shrugs, casually. “Would they ever have a crack at a person swimming in the area?”, I ask, seeking reassurance. Mr S just laughs – the mere idea of a shark attack 42

is, apparently, ridiculous. I suppose that’s meant to be heartening. The rest of the afternoon is spent fishing – what better way to reassert my status at the top of the food chain than to hook the shark that scared me shitless earlier? Alas, though, my chunk of herring, used as bait, remains utterly untouched for several hours. Fishing is an exercise in patience, I tell myself – it doesn’t matter if you don’t catch anything, right? It’s just nice to be out on the water with a line dangling over the side of the boat. Another day in paradise and all that. Still, I can’t help but feel a pang of indignation when Mr S ambles over next to me and, about 10 minutes after casting his line out, whoops with excitement after attracting a bite. “Keep a lid on it, champ,” I think to myself. “No need to throw a party over hooking a piddly little garfish.” But then, as Mr S reels his line in, it becomes clear that there’s no garfish on the other end. Instead, Mr S reaches over the side and wrestles an octopus into the boat. It doesn’t come quietly – its head is about twice the size of a man’s hand and its tentacles wrap around Mr S’s heavily tattooed arm, all the way to his shoulder. The other anglers, myself included, are stunned, the calm of our fishing expedition shattered by the sight of an octopus writhing around in the boat, desperately squirting its ink as Mr S proceeds to kill it with his bare hands, smashing and tearing its head apart. It is, at the risk of understatement, not something you see every day. “Octopus,” Mr S grins, with a raised, satisfied eyebrow. “Will make good bait.” ❚

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Experience Fiji with a difference in Pacific Harbour The adventure capital of Fiji. Book with Fun

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Nationwide banks like Westpac, ANZ and Bank of New Zealand (BNZ) have the most branches and, if you are planning on spending a long period of time here, issue cards for use at ATMs (cashpoints).

Air New Zealand 0800 737 000, Soundsair Wellington 0800 505 005 03 520 3080

Changing money


You can change money at any bank. American Express, Visa, Mastercard and Thomas Cook travellers’ cheques are all widely recognised. Banks will give cash advances on Visa and Mastercard credit cards but for American Express you must go to a designated Amex office. Foreign exchange is available for all international flights at airports.

Downunder Worldwide Travel Insurance 09 376 8292,

visa Bamber House 22 View Rd, Auckland. Dorms from $22 Bamber House is a colonial mansion in the beautiful surroundings of Mt Eden and provides a wonderful atmosphere for all travellers.

health Auckland Metro Doctors Travelcare

For accident and medical care and all international travel vaccines. Pharmacy, X-ray and laboratory. Open six days. BNZ Tower, cnr 125 Queen & Swanson Sts, Auckland, 09 373 4621, Email: doctor@ TMVC For all your medical needs. Christchurch, 03 379 4000

post Post Offices are open 9am-5pm on weekdays. Mail can be sent to ‘Poste Restante, CPO’ in the relevant city. CPO stands for Chief Post Office. Mail will be held for 30 days. Delivery time is two days between major centres, a bit longer for rural areas.

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Mt Eden, Auckland

phones Pay phones in NZ are usually of the card variety and phone cards are available in values of $5, $10, $20 and $50. The country dial code for New Zealand is 64. Directory assistance 018 International operator: 0170 (reversed charges) Emergency (Fire, ambulance, police): 111 Compass communications Kia Ora cards. Prepaid calling card

Country & area codes New Zealand 64; Auckland 09; Northland 09; Rotorua/Taupo 07; Wellington 04; South Island 03 Directory service International: 0172

dom airlines Auckland Air New Zealand 0800 737 000, 09 357 3000 Great Barrier 09 275 9120

The type of visa you will need to enter NZ is determined by how long you want to stay and what you want to do while you’re there. If you are only entering New Zealand as a tourist you may need a visa depending on what country you are from. If you intend to work while you are in New Zealand you can apply for one online, once you’re here. Citizens of many countries can get a 23-month Working Holiday visa. Visitor’s Visas Citizens of a number of countries do not require visas if they are visiting NZ for three months or less. On arrival, all visitors must be in possession of a valid ticket or enough funds to purchase a ticket out of NZ to a country they have the right of entry to, ie: you must already hold a visa for that country if one is required – you cannot expect to get the visa once you are in New Zealand. Your passport must be valid for three months beyond when you expect to leave NZ, and

@tnt_downunder you must also have sufficient money (NZ$1000 for each month of your visit) to support yourself during your stay. If you wish to stay longer than three months, you should apply for a Visitor’s Visa (which will allow you to stay in NZ for up to nine months) before you arrive in New Zealand, although British passport holders on arrival in NZ may be issued a permit valid for a stay of up to six months. Extensions If you like New Zealand and decide you’d like to stay here longer you may extend your stay to a maximum of nine months in an 18 month period. To do this you need to apply for a further visitor permit. You can apply for these permits online immigration. If you do need to apply in person, New Zealand Immigration Service offices are located in Auckland, Hamilton, Palmerston North, Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin. The Auckland office is very busy and you may experience long delays when applying there. When applying, you need to show your outward ticket or prove your ability to purchase such a ticket; your current passport, a recent passport-sized photo and evidence that you still have sufficient funds to support yourself. If you do not have the required funds, you will need a guarantee of accommodation and maintenance from a NZ friend or relative who is willing to be your sponsor.

Photo: Tourism New Zealand



huka falls The Huka Falls are said to be more of a huge swarm of rapids as opposed to a waterfall, but regardless, they are still an absolutely unmissable natural attraction in NZ. Huka comes from the word foam, and you’ll be seeing a lot of it as 220,000 litres/second pour off the volcanic cliff face and under the pedestrian bridge. Located in Wairakei Park, there are riverside walks and trails to take to reach this impressive sight, or it is a short 5min drive from Lake Taupo. If adrenaline interests you, check out the Eruptor cruise that can reach up to 95km/ph down the river. You’ll also go through Lake Taupos Bays and to spots covered in Maori Carvings.

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buses & tours Atomic Shuttles South Island buses. 03 349 0697, Bottom Bus Far south tours. 03 477 9083,

rental firms Ace Rental Cars 0800 502 277, Apex Car Rentals 0800 939 597 ,

Spaceships 0800 772 237, Standby Cars 0800 789 059, United Campervans 09 275 9919,

Flexi-Pass Combines InterCity and Newmans. 0800 222 146,

Mighty Cars and Campers (Formerly Backpacker Campervan & Car Rentals) 0800 081 026

Wicked Campers 0800 246 870,

Flying Kiwi Wilderness Expeditions 0800 693 296,

Bargain Rental Cars 0800 001 122,

Air New Zealand 1800 737 000,

Darn Cheap Rentals 0800 800 327,

Air Pacific Fiji flights 0800 800 178,

Econo Campers 09 275 9919,

Emirates 050 836 4728,

Escape Rentals 0800 216 171,

Jetstar 0800 800 995,

Kiwi Experience 09 336 4286 Magic Travellers Network 09 358 5600, 0900 62533,

Jucy Rentals 0800 399 736,

NZ Travelpass 0800 339 966,

Nationwide Rental Cars 0800 803 003,

Stray 09 526 2140,

Pegasus Rental Cars 0800 803 580,

West Coast Shuttle Greymouth to Christchurch buses. 03 768 0028,

Rent-A-Dent 0800 736 823, Rental Car Village 09 376 9935,



Qantas 0800 808 767, Virgin Australia 0800 670 000, Webjet Flights comparison website.

ferries Interislander Linking Wellington and Picton. 0800 802 802,

Travel around New Zealand with our

eating and drinking in auckland Auckland boasts just about every type of cuisine you can think of, at very affordable prices. The cheapest way to find filling food is to head for the food courts that adjoin the larger shopping malls, such as the Downtown Food Court in the Downtown Shopping Centre on QEII Square. For drinking, Queen Street and the roads running off it are the best places to start. You’ll find comedy clubs, pubs and trendy watering holes, many offering deals. The Karangahape Road – or “K Road” – is NZ’s nearest thing to Kings Cross in Sydney or Soho in London. Bars and clubs are set among the bustling red light district of Auckland. You’ll find clubs with everything from 24-hour drinking and pool to trance and hardcore hip-hop. Auckland Viaduct (pictured) is also worth checking out. It’s a beacon for beautiful people and cute yachties, and the pubs are lively when the sailors are in.

Book online at


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shotover canyon swing Nestled in the bush just out of Queenstown, is the world’s highest cliff jump. At 109m high with 60m of that being freefall, it proves to be the adventurous travellers ‘Must do’. There are 70+ different jump styles to choose from, including sliding into the canyon from a mini slippery dip, or being pushed backwards over the edge on a plastic chair! After you’ve fallen, take in the breathtaking Shotover River and await the return to reality. As soon as you’ve done it once you have an option to do it again at half price, so there is always the chance to get the thrill of a lifetime once more before you leave. If that adrenaline is not enough, check out the packages available to do the swing, plus jet boat/ skydiving or rafting.


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i-SITE Auckland Atrium, skycity, Cnr Federal & Victoria Sts

Base Travel Level 3, 229 Queen St, 09 358 4874, i-SITE Visitor Information 287 Queen St, 09 979 2333, Ferry Tickets Online (For inter-island ferry services) 39 Beach Rd, 0800 500 660, Parks Information Centre Details on tramping, camping grounds, the Gulf Islands and exploring the regional parks. 21 Pitt St, open Mon-Fri, 09 366 2000 Airport Transport The airport is 21km from the city and shuttle buses run every half an hour. Airbus Airport is every 20 mins. 0800 247 287, City buses Tickets and timetables are available from the 10 central city Star Mart stores. 09 366 6400 Auckland InterCity Travel Centre Buses around Auckland and the rest of New Zealand leave from here. Located beside the casino, Hobson St, 09 623 1503 Train Intercity trains arrive and depart from Britomart, 12 Queen St, Auckland. 09 270 5211

auckland stay

Photo: Tourism New Zealand, Arno Gasteiger

Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. 09 275 4443, Albert Park Backpackers (VIP) 27-31 Victoria St East. 09 309 0336,

CHECK IN! Bamber House 22 View Rd, Auckland. Dorms from $22 Bamber House is a colonial mansion in the beautiful surroundings of Mt Eden and provides a wonderful atmosphere for all travellers. Mt Eden, Auckland

Central City Backpackers 26 Lorne St. 09 358 5685, City Garden Lodge 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. 09 302 0880 City Groove Backpackers (BBH) 6 Constitutional Hill, Parnell. 09 303 4768,

Queen Street Backpackers (VIP) 4 Fort St. 09 373 3471, Uenuku Lodge (BBH) 217 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby. 09 378 8990 Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. 09 363 8889, The Brown Kiwi (BBH) 7 Prosford St, Ponsonby. 09 378 0191,

Kiwi International Queen St Hotel and Hostel 411 Queen St. 0800 100 411,

Verandahs (BBH) 6 Hopetown St. 09 360 4180

Kiwi International Airport 150 McKenzie Road, Mangere. 0800 801 919, Lantana Lodge (BBH) 60 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. 09 373 4546, The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. 09 307 0181, New Zealand Backpackers 8 Nixon St, Ponsonby. 09 376 3871, Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. 09 300 9999,

Base Auckland 229 Queen St. 0800 227 369,

Pentlands (BBH) 22 Pentland Ave, Mt Eden. +64 9638 7031

BK Hostel (BBH)

Princeton Backpackers 30 Symonds St. 09 963 8300,

Georgia Parkside Backpackers 189 Park Rd, Grafton. 09 309 8999,

Oaklands Lodge (BBH) 5A Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. 09 638 6545,

Bamber House (BBH) 22 View Rd, Mt Eden. 09 623 4267,

3 Mercury Ln, Central. 09 307 0052,

Auckland International Backpackers (BBH) 2 Churton St, Parnell. +64358 4584,

Ponsonby Backpackers (BBH) 2 Franklin Rd, Ponsonby. 09 360 1311,

09 367 9111.

Auckland Zoo See kiwi birds in the nocturnal house and over 900 animals. 09 360 3800,

Auckland Bridge Climb Up and over the Auckland Harbour Bridge. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay, 0800 286 4958,

Pride of Auckland The Pride of Auckland operates an impressive fleet of large, purpose-built yachts on the sheltered waters of Auckland’s Auckland Museum Waitemata Harbour and is See the world’s finest collection world famous for its sailing and of Maori and Pacific Island dining cruises. Join them for a artefacts. Explore New coffee, lunch, dinner, Waiheke Zealand’s natural history, sailing experience cruise or a discover the largest bird that full-day sailing adventure and ever lived and experience a experience the “City of Sails” Maori cultural show. for what it is known for. 09 306 7067, 0800 397 567,

In Maori language the city’s name is Tamaki Makau Rau, which translates as “the city of 100 lovers”. Auckland is admired for its cosmopolitan flavour, its sunny harbour for the fact that it makes every other city in NZ feel like a small town.

Backpackers World Travel 16-20 Fort St, 09 379 4126,

enjoy the action as you sail the beautiful Waitemata Harbour. The two hour sails departs daily from the Auckland Viaduct. No experience necessary. 0800 397 567,

Uenuku Lodge (BBH) 217 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby. 09 378 8990 YHA Auckland City Cnr City Rd & Liverpool St. 09 378 8990 YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. 09 302 8200,

auckland do Explorer Bus Sightseeing around Auckland, 0800 439 756 On the Road Tours and Charters Sightseeing bus tours of Auckland and the north shore. 0800 486 877, Harbour Ferries Ferries can take you all over the harbour. Info about timetables and destinations available at the Ferry Building on Quay St. 09 424 5561 America’s Cup Sailing Experience A unique opportunity to participate as crew on an actual America’s Cup yacht. Take the helm, exert energy on the grinders or simply sit back and

Coast to Coast Walkway A walk between Waitemata Harbour and Manukau Harbour. It takes about four hours and takes in Albert Park, Auckland Uni, Auckland Domain, Mt Eden, and One Tree Hill. Devonport A 15-minute ferry or bus ride across the harbour on the north shore, Devonport is an idyllic setting for a picnic or a stroll along the beach. Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter & Underwater World A seawater aquarium with a moving walkway through a transparent underwater cavern. Antarctic Encounter is a recreation of an Antarctic environment where you jump on a snow mobile and tour a penguin colony, get attacked by an orca whale. Orakei Wharf, Tamaki Drive, 09 528 0603, Mt Eden The highest point in the city, 4km south of the city centre with spectacular views. Get there by bus. NZ National Maritime Museum The museum celebrates NZ’s maritime heritage. 09 373 0800, Ponsonby West of the city, explore Victorian architecture and narrow streets with cafés, bars, clothes shops, art galleries and some lively nightlife.

Auckland Harbour Bridge Jump NZ’s only ocean touch bungy, 40m high. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay, 0800 286 4958, Canyonz Ltd Explore subtropical canyons and abseil down crashing waterfalls. 0800 422 696, New Zealand Surf Tours 09 832 9622, Sky Jump Fall from the top of the 192m Sky Tower, 0800 759 586, Sky Walk Walk around the external 1.2m wide platform, 192m up. 09 368 1835, Fullers Bay of Islands Tours One, two and three-day tours from Auckland. 09 358 0259, Awesome Adventures Three-day Bay of Islands tours. 0800 658 058, Beaches Auckland is surrounded by great beaches, including Judges Bay, Kohimarama, Okahu Bay, St Heliers Bay and popular Mission Bay.

Queen Street Auckland’s main boulevard with shops, cafés and restaurants. Aotea Square Markets Every Friday and Saturday at Whale & Dolphin Safari Aotea Square, Queen St. NZ See whales and dolphins from fashion labels, retro gear, foods, Auckland’s doorstep. The Pacific-style crafts, jewellery Hauraki Gulf is considered one and furniture, of the most biologically and 09 309 2677, geographically diverse marine parks in the world. See dolphins, whales, sea birds and/ Victoria Park Market or even penguins. Dolphins are 3km from the CBD, an outdoor viewed on over 90% and whales market with fruit, veggies, on 75% of trips. Departs daily books, clothes and handicrafts. from the Auckland Viaduct. Dolphin viewing guaranteed. 0800 397 567, great barrier Fullers Cruises Inner harbour cruises and longer cruises to Hauraki Gulf islands, with all-day passes and hop-on, hop-off options.

The island is dominated by a native forest a network of criss-crossing tracks. Orama Resort (YHA)

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northisland Karaka Bay Rd, 09 429 0063, Stray Possum Lodge (VIP) 09 429 0109,


09 402 6222,


Saltwater Lodge (BBH) 14 Kings Rd, 0800 002 266, YHA Paihia Cnr Kings and MacMurray Rds, Paihia, 09 402 7487,

barrier do Fullers Cruises Depart from the Ferry Building. 09 367 9102

paihia do

Great Barrier Airlines Fly out of Auckland Airport or Auckland Shore Airfield. 0800 900 600, Fullers Great Barrier Explorers Cruise and tours, summer only (October-April). 09 367 9111

waiheke island A 35-minute ferry ride from Auckland. It is popular for its long sweeping beaches and craft shops. Hekerua Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 11 Hekerua Rd, Oneroa, 09 372 8990, Waiheke Island Hostel Seaview Road, Onetangi, Ph: (09) 372 8971,

northland The “winterless north” is Northland’s famous tag. The subtropical climate is good all year round and the area boasts some of the best beaches in NZ. Highlights include Ninety Mile Beach, Kerikeri and the beautiful Bay of Islands.

helensville The hot springs here have indoor and outdoor thermal pools and waterslides. Malolo House (BBH) 110 Commercial Rd, 09 420 7262,

hibiscus coast Whangaparaoa Peninsula. A popular holiday spot, the peninsula offers water sport opportunities from windsurfing to boating. Busy in summer, this whole area is popular with bushwalkers. Hisbiscus Coast Visitor Info Hibiscus Coast Hwy, 09 426 0076. Marco Polo Backpackers Inn (BBH) 2d Hammond Ave, Hatfields Beach, 09 426 8455,

pakiri beach Famous for its white sand and isolation, there are several coastal walks here and gorgeous views.

waipu Come to Waiku for snorkelling, fishing and exploring the caves. The


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Haruru Falls Picturesque falls offering swimming, camping and kayaking opportunities – and a pub!

trek global 9 O’Reily Ave, Wellington. Dorms from $18 This fresh, fun and friendly backpackers in located in the hub of Wellington City. Plus it has its very own party planner!


Bream Bay Coast is a magnificent expanse of white sparkling sand just 30 mins drive from the city.

sail rock Hen & Chickens Island and Sail Rock These offshore areas offer great sailing and diving. Boat trips leave from the area daily. Waipu Wanderer (BBH) 25 St Marys Rd, 09 432 0532.

whangarei The waterfront has been developed in the style of the early settlers (except with cafés, restaurants and galleries) and Mount Parahaki towers 241m above the city. Stroll along enticing beaches and dive at Poor Knights Islands. one of the world’s top diving sites. Also pay a visit to petty Whangerei Falls. Whangarei I-SITE Visitor Centre 92 Otaika Rd, 09 438 1079

whangarei stay Bunkdown Lodge (BBH) 23 Otaika Road, 09 438 8886, Coastal Cow Backpackers (BBH) 299 Molesworth Drive, Mangawhai Heads, 09 431 5444, Little Earth Lodge (BBH) 85 Abbey Caves Road, 09 430 6562, Piano Hill Farm (BBH) Piano Hill, Kauri, 09 433 7090, Whangarei Falls Backpackers (BBH) Ngunguru Road, Glenbervie, 09 437 0609, YHA Whangarei, Manaakitanga 52 Punga Grove Ave, 09 438 8954,

whangarei do Dive! Tutukaka Poor Knights Islands dives, plus tours with kayaking, cave explorations, snorkelling, swimming, sea mammal-spotting.

paihia Paihia is one of the most beautiful towns on the North Island with equal parts love for adventure, nature and a raucous nightlife. AwesomeNZ Tours include Maori mythology, dolphin swimming and fast boats. Maritime Building, on the waterfront, 0800 653 339, Bay of Islands i-Site The Wharf, Marsden Rd, Freephone: 09 402 7345 Base Travel 18 Kings Rd, 09 402 7111,

paihia stay Base Pipi Patch 18 Kings Rd 09 402 7111, Captain Bob’s Beachhouse (BBH) 44 Davis Cres, 09 402 8668, Centabay Lodge (BBH) 27 Selwyn Rd, 09 402 7466, Mayfair Lodge (BBH) 7 Puketona Rd, 09 402 7471, mayfair.html Mousetrap (BBH) 11 Kings Rd, 09 402 8182, Peppertree Lodge (BBH) 15 Kings Rd, 09 402 6122, Pickled Parrot Backpackers (BBH) Grey’s Lane,

Opua Forest The DOC provides a leaflet of forest walks, which features a small stand of Kauri trees. Drive into the forest via Oromahoe Rd or walk from School Rd. Te Rawhiti Cape Brett Walkway Guided tours include experienced local Maori guides, all meals, hut accommodation, transport by boat to hut taking in the famous Hole in the Rock, Maori culture, myths and legends and hangi, 09 403 7248 Waitangi Treaty Grounds The site where the historic Treaty of Waitangi was signed. Also see carvings that represent all Maori tribes in NZ and one of the largest ceremonial waka (canoe) in the world, launched every Waitangi Day (Feb 6). 09 402 7437, Boat cruises & dolphin watching Cape Brett “Hole in the Rock” Cruise Four-hour cruises, 09 402 7421 Dolphin Discoveries With the warmest water and friendliest dolphins (bottlenoses), this is a great place for swimming with the dolphins (conditions permitting). The high-speed luxury catamaran offers easy access to the water and hot showers. Or do a “Hole in the Rock and Dolphin Viewing Experience” and see dolphins, whales, birds and other wildlife. Visit Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island during your island stop and explore this amazing place. 0800 365 744, Dune Rider Unique Adventure Tour Make your way up to Cape Reinga while traveling to the Gumdiggers Park and drive along the famous Ninety Mile Beach. Climb huge sand dunes and boogie board back down on the way and stop at the world famous Mangonui Fish Shop for fish and chips. Departing daily from Paihia. 0800 365 744,

@tnt_downunder Ultimate Day Sail in the Bay” Join Lion New Zealand, NZ’s most famous maxi yacht. Enjoy a fresh BBQ lunch and activities such as kayaking, snorkelling, natural walks at Otehei Bay or simply kick back and enjoy the island atmosphere. 0800 365 744, Overnight Cruises The Rock 24-hour cruise featuring kayaking, snorkelling with stingrays, fishing for your dinner, dolphin spotting. 0800 762 527, Awesome Cape Reinga Via Ninety Mile Beach – learn Maori myths and legends, navigate the quicksand stream, ride the dunes, visit a thousand year old forest. 0800 653 339,

russell Catch a ferry to Russell, originally a sprawling fortified Maori settlement. Information Centre End of the Pier, 09 403 8020

russell stay The Coast Road Farm (BBH) Coast Rd, Whangaruru, 09 433 6894, Ferry Landing (BBH) 395A Aucks Rd, Okiato Point, 09 403 7985, Wainui (BBH) 92D Te Wahapu Rd, 09 403 8278,

kerikeri A highlight of the sparsely populated town is the wonderful Maori village. There is also an historic Maori pa (fortress) and the Kerikeri Mission Station. Dept of Conservation Office 09 407 8474

kerikeri stay Kerikeri Top 10 Holiday Park & Aranga Backpackers Aranga Drive off Kerikeri Rd, 09 407 9326, Hideaway Lodge Wiroa Rd, 0800 562 746 Hone Heke Lodge (BBH) 65 Hone Heke Rd, 09 407 8170, Kerikeri Farm Hostel (BBH) Ph: (09) 407 6989,

nrth bay of isl

Excitor “Hole in the Rock” Adventure One-and-a-half hours, 0800 653 339,

i-Site Far North South Rd in Jaycee Park. 09 408 0879,

Lion New Zealand – “The

Farm Backpackers (BBH)

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End of Lamb Rd, Pukenui, 09 409 7863,

including free ticket to Kauri Museum. Devon Grove, Matakohe, 09 431 6007


North Wind Lodge Backpackers (BBH) Otaipango Rd, Henderson Bay, 09 409 8515,

Waikato District Info Centre 160 Great South Rd, Huntly, 07 828 6406 Shekinah (BBH) 122 Pungapunga Rd, Pukekawa, 09 233 4464,

matauri bay

The Welcome Swallow Backpackers Off Matauri Bay Road, 09 4051 019, The Rainbow Warrior A monument to the noble but doomed Greenpeace ship, Rainbow Warrior, sits on the site of a Maori pa on the headland at Matauri Bay. Travellers come here to dive the ship’s wreck.

whangaroa This area was once well known for its Kauri forests, but these days it’s more about game fishing. The scenery is ruggedly spectacular and sailing cruises are popular.


1210 Tutanekai Street, Rotorua. Dorms from $17 Wonderfully clean, with friendly staff and fun, vibrant travellers looking for a good time, Blarney’s is (arguably) the best in Rotorua.


taipa A tiny village with a boat-dotted harbour. You can swim with dolphins, hire boats or kayaks, and swim at the beautiful Coopers Beach. Taipa is worth visiting for its pretty beach.

kaitaia The ideal starting point for Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach. Backpackers Heaven (VIP) Wagener Holiday Park, Houhora Heads, 09 409 8564, Main Street Lodge (BBH) 235 Commerce St, 09 408 1275,

hamilton stay Colts n Fillies (BBH) 37 Smith Rd, Karamu, 07 825 9809,

Waitiki Landing Far North Rd, 09 409 7508

Hokianga Information 09 405 8869,

Forty Winks (BBH) 267 River Rd, Claudelands, 07 855 2033,

kaitaia do

Sunseeker Lodge (BBH) Old Hospital Rd, 09 405 0496,

karikari penin

DOC Office Level 5, Rostrevor St.


Pack or Paddle Thoms Landing, 09 4098 445,

90 mile beach The west coast of the Far North Peninsula is Ninety Mile Beach,a beautiful strip of coastline that takes you way up to Cape Reinga.

ahipara This is the best spot for sandtobogganing, located at the south end of Ninety Mile Beach.

hokianga stay Okopako Lodge (BBH) 140 Mountain Rd, South Hokianga, 09 405 8815, Globe Trekkers Lodge (BBH) SH12, Omapere, 09 405 8183. Waitawa Farm Hostel (BBH) 164 Pukemiro Rd, 09 409 5809,

On the road from Hokianga, the famous “Big Trees”, the native kauri trees of Waipoua Kauri Forest. Once in Dargaville, attractions include the masts from the ill-fated Rainbow Warrior and the fascinating bird sanctuary nearby.

Rural town famous for being turned into Hobbiton in those films – some of the set still stands.

dargaville stay Dargaville Holiday Park (VIP) 10 Onslow St, 09 439 8296,

Farm Backpackers (BBH) End of Lamb Rd, Pukenui, 09 409 7863

Kaihu Farm (BBH) RD6, Kaihu, 09 439 4004,

ahipara do Tuatua Tours Guided quad tours of Ninety Mile Beach sand dunes. 3 Main Road, 0800 494 288,

hamilton do Waikato Museum of Art & History Cnr Victoria and Grantham Sts. More than 3,000 items, with a permanent Maori War canoe. Gold coin donations welcomed.


YHA Ahipara Backpackers & Motor Camp 168-170 Takehe St, 09 409 4864,

Endless Summer Lodge (BBH) 245 Foreshore Rd, 09 409 4181,

J’s Backpackers (BBH) 8 Grey Street, 07 856 8934,


Dargaville Info Centre 61 Normanby St, 09 439 8360.

The Greenhouse Hostel (BBH) 13 Portland St, 09 439 6342,

matakohe Travellers Lodge (BBH) 64 Jellicoe Rd, Ruawai, 09 439 2283 Kauri Country Northland 3hr 4WD eco-adventures,

Karioi Backpacker Lodge (VIP, BBH) & Raglan Surfing School 5 Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay, 07 825 7873, Solcape Accommodation Centre (BBH) 611 Wainui Rd, 07 825 8268 Waikatoa Beach Lodge (BBH) 8 Centreway Rd, Sunset Beach, Port Waikato, 09 232 9961,

te awamutu

Heading south, you’ll hit Hokianga Harbour and the quiet twin towns of Omapere and Opononi. The Koutu Boulders are worth a look.

Far North Regional Museum Featuring all kinds of goodies, like the skeleton of a giant moa bird and salvages from local shipwrecks.

The Rusty Anchor (BBH) 1 Tokerau Beach Rd, 09 406 7141,

Hamilton Visitor Centre 5 Garden Place, Hamilton 07 958 5960

Pukenui Lodge (YHA) Corner Wharf Rd & State Hwy 1, Houhora, 09 409 8837,

Tourist info centre Boyd Gallery, 09 405 0230.

Less touristy than the Bay of Islands, the area around Doubtless is made up of tiny bays and coves, beach resorts and historical villages.

Hamilton is NZ’s largest inland city and is known for its parks and gardens.

Blarneys Rock

Ancient Kauri Kingdom Giant kauri tree stumps are fashioned into furniture and other trinkets.

doubtless bay

Raglan Backpackers & Waterfront Lodge (BBH) 6 Wi Neera St, 07 825 0515,


Pukenui Lodge Hostel (BBH) Cnr SH1 & Wharf Rd, Pukenui, 09 4098837,

A very well-kept tourist secret, Matauri Bay is Maori land, home to the Ngati Kura people, and has beautiful, quiet beaches.

2458 State Highway 22, Glen Murray, 09 233 3144,

Given that it calls itself the “Rose Town of New Zealand”, it’s not surprising the 2,000-strong Rose Garden is the town’s major attraction. Te Awamutu Info Centre 1 Gorst Ave, 07 871 3259. Te Awamutu District Museum 135 Roche St. 07 872 0085

kawhia The main attraction of this peaceful port town, 55km south of Raglan, is the Maketu Marae where you can experience the rich cultural tapestry of NZ’s indigenous history.

otorohanga Just 59km south of Hamilton, many travellers use this small farming community as a base for visiting the Waitomo Caves. Otorohanga Visitor Info Centre 26 Maniapoto St,


Hobbiton Backpackers 81 Arawa St, 07 888 9972,

Definitely one of the best adventure spots in New Zealand. There are a range of caving adventures, from glowworm ogling, to long dramatic abseils deep towards the centre of cambridge the earth and excellent blackwater This very Olde English town with its rafting (jump in an inner tube and let the underwater current carry town square and abundance of trees is in the heart of Waikato. The you). region is famous for its horses and Waitomo Caves Discovery jetboating. Centre 21 Waitomo Caves Rd, Cambridge Tourist Info Centre Cnr Queen and Victoria Sts, 07 823 3456

waitomo stay

raglan One of New Zealand’s best-known surfing beaches, Raglan is situated 48km west of Hamilton. Raglan Information Centre 2 Wainui Rd, 07 825 0556

Juno Hall (BBH) 07 878 7649 Kiwipaka School Rd, 07 878 3395 Rap Raft & Rock Backpackers (BBH) 95 Waitomo Caves Rd, 07 873 9149,

raglan stay Ewe Dream’Inn (BBH)

0800 474 839.

waitomo do

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northisland Dundle Hill Walk A two-day walk through native bush; limestone outcrops includes overnight with spectacular views at Kays Cabin. 0800 924 866 Marakopa Falls, Managapohue Natural Bridge and Piri Piri Cave, 30 minutes drive from Waitomo. Rap Raft ‘n’ Rock Blackwater adventures combining abseiling, rafting, glowworms, caving and rockclimbing all in one five-hour adventure. 0800 228 372, The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co Cave tubing in the blackness of the Ruakuri Cave river. 585 Waitomo Caves Rd, 0800 228 464,

Dept of Conservation 78 Taupiri Street, 07 878 1080. Tiffany’s Tearooms, Rora St, 07 878 7640

te kuiti stay Casara Mesa Backpackers (BBH) Mangarino Rd, 07 878 6697,

king country The King Country is the region south of the Waikato and the Maori influence has remained strong with the opportunity to experience Maoritanga (the Maori way).

coromandel pen

BOOK NOW! Canyonz Ltd 0800 422 696,

thames stay Dickson Holiday Park Victoria St, 07 868 7308, Gateway Backpackers (BBH) 209 Mackay St, 07 868 6339, The Sunkist International Backpackers (BBH, VIP, YHA) 506 Brown St, 07 868 8808, Te Aroha YHA Hostel Miro Street, Te Aroha (south of Thames), 07 884 8739,

forest park

Woodlyn Park Pioneer Show, caving adventure, and quirky accommodation in a 1950s train carriage. Waitomo Valley Road, 07 878 6666.

A series of towns loop around the peninsula, broken by rolling green hills. Highlights include Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove and the cosy little Coromandel township.

te kuiti


Located 19km south of Otorohanga, Te Kuiti is known as “The Shearing Capital of the World”. There’s also a magnificent Maori marae (meeting house) here.

A great canyoning spot, with loads of natural pools and waterslides. Information Thames 206 Poland St, 07 868 7284

Some 55km north of Thames is the town of Coromandel, home to the popular Driving Creek Railway.

Te Kuiti Information Centre Rora St, 07 878 8077.

DOC Office 07 868 6381

Coromandel Information Centre Kapanga Rd, 07 866 8598.

There are heaps of walks to choose from. The Colville Range is the most popular but the Department of Conservation in the Kauaeranga Valley is the place to begin.



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coro stay Anchor Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 448 Wharf Rd, 07 866 7992, Black Jack Backpackers (BBH) Kuaotunu, 07 866 2988, Colville Farm (BBH) 2140 Colville Road, Colville, 07 866 6820 Coromandel Town Backpackers (BBH) 732 Rings Road, 07 866 8830 Lions Den (BBH) 126 Te Tiki St, 07 866 8157

opoutere This is a good place to go to just chill out. The beach here is glorious and generally empty. Skinny dip anyone? YHA Opoutere 389 Opoutere Rd, 07 865 9072,

whangamata A real surfie town, Whangamata has one of the best surf beaches in New Zealand and a laidback atmosphere to match.

Whangamata Backpackers Hostel (BBH) 227 Beverley Tce, 07 865 8323

whitianga Whitianga, perched on pretty Mercury Bay, is the most popular stop-off point for travellers on the Coromandel. You can learn to make your very own bone carving, dive and surf to your heart’s content. Whitianga Information Centre 66 Albert St, 07 866 5555

Photo: TNT Images


On the Beach Backpackers Lodge (BBH, YHA) 46 Buffalo Beach Rd, 07 866 5380, Seabreeze Tourist Park (BBH) 1043 SH25 Tairua-Whitianga Rd, 07 866 3050 Tatahi Lodge (BBH) Grange Rd, Hahei, 07 866 3992,

whitianga do

Hot Water Beach & Cathedral Cove Rated as one of the world’s 10 best beaches, Hot Water Beach is an unusual Tui Lodge (BBH) phenomenon. For two hours 60 Whangapoua Rd, 07 866 8237, either side of low tide you can dig a hole in the sand and sit in your very own thermal spa pool.

Southpacific Accommodation (BBH) Cnr Port Rd and Mayfair Avenue, 07 865 9580,

One of the real treasures of the North Island, don’t skip past this tiny town without first exploring the cavernous wonders that lie beneath it. Ten minutes north of Otorohanga, the caverns are one of NZ’s natural marvels. Waitomo caters for just about everyone. You can either keep it on the tranquil side by simply taking a guided tour to gawp in awe at the millions of glowworms that call the area home, or you can test your adventurous spirit (and your ability to cope with claustrophobia), by getting roped up and instead trying abseiling and blackwater rafting, which is basically cruising through the underground rivers in an inflatable ring. Word of advice: try not to watch The Descent just before going.

Fernbird (BBH) 24 Harsant Ave, Hahei, 07 866 3080,

Tidewater Tourist Park (YHA) 270 Tiki Rd, 07 866 8888,

Whangamata Info Centre 616 Port Rd, 07 865 8340

waitomo caves


Baywatch Backpackers (VIP) 22 The Esplanade, 07 866 5481, Cathedral Cove Lodge Villas (VIP) 41 Harsant Ave, Hahei Beach, 07 866 3889. Cat’s Pyjamas Backpackers (BBH) 12 Albert St, 07 866 4663.

bay of plenty The Bay of Plenty, extending from the Coromandel Peninsula to the East Cape, was named by Captain Cook in honour of both the fertile nature of the region and the friendly local Maoris he encountered. Activities include paragliding, sky diving, white water rafting, 4WD safaris, gliding, jet boating and swimming with dolphins.

tauranga One of the fastest growing places in NZ, Tauranga combines a young population with a harbourside atmosphere. Enjoy diving, sailing, fishing and surfing. Tauranga i-site 95 Willow St, 07 578 8103 Department of Conservation 253 Chadwick Rd West, 07 578 7677

tauranga stay Appletree Cottage 47 Maxwell Rd, 07 5767404, appletreebackpackers Bell Lodge (BBH) 39 Bell St, 07 578 6344, Harbourside City Backpackers (BBH) 105 The Strand, 07 579 4066, Just The Ducks Nuts Backpackers (BBH) 6 Vale St, 07 576 1366, Loft 109 (BBH) 8/109 Devonport Rd, 07 579 5638,

Tuaranga Central Backpackers 64 Willow St, 07 571 6222,

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BOOK NOW Become part of the legend with New Zealand’s first Black Water Rafting company. An exhilarating world of ancient caves, rivers, waterfalls and breathtaking glowworms. Climb, leap and float with the Black Labyrinth or descend into the black, bottomless depths with the ultimate caving tour, the Black Abyss.

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northisland YHA Tauranga 171 Elizabeth St, 07 578 5064,

tauranga do Butlers Swim With Dolphins 0508 288 537 Waimarino Adventure Park 07 576 4233 Coyote Bar and Restaurant 107 The Strand, 07 578 8968,

mt maunganui Home to Ocean Beach which, at 15km long, is considered by locals to be among the finest surfing in the country. The town stands at the foot of Mt Maunganui, a slab of rock 232m high, around which you can appreciate stunning views. Mt Maunganui Visitor Centre Salisbury Ave, 07 575 5099 Te Puke Information Centre 130 Jellicoe St, 07 573 9172

maunga stay Hairy Berry Backpackers (BBH) 2 No One Rd, Te Puke, 07 573 8015, Mount Backpackers (BBH) 87 Maunganui Rd, 07 575 0860, Pacific Coast Backpackers (BBH) 432 Maunganui Rd, 0800 666 622,

maunga do Kiwifruit Country Young Rd, Te Puke, 07 573 6340, Te Puke Vintage Auto Barn, 26 Young Rd, 07 573 6547

whakatane For a very different adventure, visit White Island, an active volcano where sulphur-lipped fumeroles and roaring steam vents create a stark wonderland. Karibu Backpackers (BBH) 13 Landing Rd, 07 307 8276 Lloyds Lodge (BBH) 10 Domain Rd, 07 307 8005 The Windsor (BBH) 10 Merritt St, Whakatane, 07 308 8040,

Rotorua is a must for three reasons: the abundance of accessible Maori culture, the steaming volcanic scenery and adrenalin thrills. Visit the bubbling mud at Whaka, take a dip in a thermal bath and pig out on a hangi at a Maori concert. Even the air here is special – it’s heavy with sulphur. You’ll smell it the moment you arrive. Tourism Rotorua & Visitor Info Centre 1167 Fenton St, 07 348 5179

rotorua stay Base Rotorua 1286 Arawa St, 0800 227 369, Cactus Jack Backpackers (BBH) 1210 Haupapa St, 07 348 3121, Crank Backpackers 1140 Hinemoa St, 07 348 0852, Crash Palace Backpackers (BBH, VIP) 1271 Hinemaru St, 07 348 8842, Planet Nomad Backpackers (VIP) 1193 Fenton St, 07 346 2831, Rotorua Central Backpackers (BBH) 1076 Pukuatua St, 07 349 3285, Spa Lodge (BBH) 1221 Amohau St, 07 348 3486,

rotorua do Agroventures Five adrenalin activities in one adventure park, including bungy jumping, sprint boats and a wind tunnel. 1335 Paradise Valley Rd. 07 357 4747, Hell’s Gate Mud baths to heal and stimulate your body 07 345 3151 Kaitiaki Adventures Extreme whitewater activities. Sledging and rafting trips on the Kaituna and Rangitaiki Rivers, 0800 338 736, NZONE Skydive Skydive from 15,000ft over Rotorua, 07 345 7250, Off Road NZ Sprint car racing, Monster 4X4, 4WD Bush Safari and more. 07 332 5748,

Dive White 168 The Strand, 0800 348 394,

Polynesian Spa Historical hot mineral water bathing spa on the edge of Lake Rotorua. 07 348 1328,

White Island Tours Departs Whakatane daily. 0800 733 529

Raftabout Whitewater rafting and sledging. 0800 723 822,

whakatane do



BOOK NOW! Skyline Skyrides Spectacular Get the best views and luge down 5km of tracks, or take the 150ft skyswing. 07 347 0027, Waikite Hot Pools Natural hot spring water bathing. Provides private spas, BBQ area and campground facilities, 20 minutes south of Rotorua. 07 333 1861 Waimangu Volcanic Valley The location of the Pink and White Terraces which were destroyed in the 1886 volcanic eruption. Wet ‘n’ Wild Rafting Guided rafting options on five different rivers – the Wairoa, Rangitaiki, Kaituna, Motu and Mohaka. 0800 462 7238, Zorbing Get harnessed inside the perspex Zorb before rolling head-over-heels downhill. 07 357 5100,

maori culture While you’re here, take the opportunity to see how the Maori lived before European settlment. The Maori Arts and Crafts Institute in Whakarewarewa is a good place to begin . NZ Maori Arts & Crafts Institute 07 348 9047 The Realm of Tane A blend of guided tour, character theatre and story telling within a series of magical sets. 1220 Hinemaru St, 07 349 2999, Rotoiti Tours 0800 476 864 Tamaki Maori Village Tours, hangi and concert. Hinemaru St, 07 349 2999, Whakarewarewa Thermal Village Maori village set amidst a landscape of geothermal wonders. Take a guided tour, see a cultural performance, check out Maori art. 07 349 3463,

follow us on 75 Scannell St, 07 378 4909, Blackcurrant Backpackers (BBH) 20 Taniwha St, Ph: (07) 378 9292, blackcurrantbackpackers@xtra. Rainbow Lodge (BBH) 133 Summers St, Ph: (08) 9227-1818, Finns Global Backpackers (VIP) Cnr Tongariro & Tuwharetoa Sts, 07 377 0044,


turangi On the southern shores of Lake Taupo, Turangi is known as the trout fishing capital of the world. It offers heaps of outdoor adventure activities and is a good base for venturing into the Tongariro National Park. Turangi Visitor Centre Ngawaka Place, 07 386 8999

turangi stay

Silver Fern Lodge Flash-Packers (VIP) Cnr Tamamutu & Kaimanawa Sts, 07 377 4929,

A Plus Backpackers (BBH) 41 Iwiheke Pl, Turangi, 07 386 89 79,

Sunset Lodge (BBH) 27 Tremain Ave, 07 378 5962,

Club Habitat Backpackers Assoc YHA 25 Ohuanga Rd, 07 386 7492,

Base Taupo 7 Tuwharetoa St, 07 377 4464, Taupo Urban Retreat 65 Heu Heu St, 0800 872 261, Tiki Lodge 104 Tuwharetoa St, 0800 845 456, YHA Taupo 56 Kaimanawa St, 07 378 3311,

taupo do Craters of the Moon One of the most geothermally active areas in the region, full of boiling mud and steaming craters. Wairakei Park. Huka Falls Take a relaxing walk up to Huka Falls where the water pours over the 35ft drop at up to 62,000 gallons per second. The more energetic will enjoy the trek up Mt Tauhara where you will be rewarded with sweeping views. Hukafalls Jet Jetboating by the falls. 0800 485 2538,

Extreme Backpackers (BBH) 26 Ngawaka Place, 07 386 8949, Riverstone Backpackers (BBH) 222 Tautahanga Rd, 07 386 7004,

tongariro The World Heritage-listed Tongariro National Park, an extraordinary volcanic landscape which became Mordor in those films. Pop into the national park headquarters in Whakapapa. Adventure Lodge & Motel (VIP) Carroll Street, National Park, 07 892 2991, Forest Lodge (BBH) Cnr Omaki and Ohorere Rds, Owhango, 07 895 4773, Howards Lodge (BBH) Carroll St, National Park, 07 892 2827, YHA Matai Lodge (BBH) 1 Rata St, Ohakune, 06 385 9169,

Rock ‘n’ Ropes Ropes Courses including the trapeze and Giant Swing. At Crazy Catz on Highway 5. 0800 244 508,

National Park Backpackers YHA (BBH) Finlay St. The hostel runs transport to the Tongariro Crossing, 07 892 2870, Plateau Lodge & Motel (BBH) Carroll St, National Park, 07 892 2993,

lake taupo

Taupo Bungy Bungy from a platform 47m above the Waikato River. 202 Spa Rd. 0800 888 408,

Lake Taupo used to be a hidden gem, but nowadays it’s the place to visit in the North Island, thanks to its wicked mix of adrenalin adventures, sedate lake life and after-dark partying.

Tongariro Crossing Transport and National Park Links From Taupo and Turangi during summer months (NovMay). 07 377 0435,

Ski Haus (BBH) Carroll St, McKenzie St, 07 892 2854,

Taupo Visitor Centre 30 Tongariro St, 07 376 0027

Taupo Tandem Skydiving Skydive from up to 15,000 feet (over one minute freefall). Free shuttle, DVD and digital photos. Yellow Hangar, Taupo Airport. 0800 275 934,

The park’s showcase is Mt Ruapehu, an active volcano towering at 2,796m.

taupo stay Berkenhoff Lodge (BBH)

mt ruapehu

Ruapehu Visitors’ Centre 54 Clyde St, 06 385 8427

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Whakapapa Visitor Centre SH 48, Whakapapa Village, 07 892 3729

Zealand that has so much to offer that it can only be a matter of time before visitors begin to flock here.



The Rangitikei District is a top destination for adventure sports. Amongst stunning scenery, you can navigate grade five whitewater and take the leap of elasticated faith from an 80m bungy.

A summer holiday town which was once a large Maori settlement and the indigenous people maintain a strong presence here.

The Stockmans Lodge (BBH) 9 Dixon Way, 06 388 1584, River Valley Dorms 06 388 1444,

rangitikei do Mokai Gravity Canyon Extreme flying fox, bridge swing and bungy jump. 0800 802 864 River Valley Rafting and horse trekking. 06 388 1444,

east coast The East Coast is among the first places in the world to see the sun rise each morning. This is a relatively tourist-free area of New

Maraehako Bay Retreat (BBH) SH35, Whanarua Bay, 07 325 2648. Mel’s Place (BBH) Onepoto Beach Rd, Hicks Bay, 06 864 4694,


Central Oasis Backpackers (BBH) 30 King St, 07 315 5165,

Gisborne is a peaceful surfie town that boasts diving, windsurfing, kayaking and whitewater rafting; try Wainui, Midway and Makarori beaches. You can also soak up the Maori heritage at one of the largest carved maraes in NZ.

Opotiki Backpackers Beach House (BBH) 7 Appleton Rd, Waiotahi Beach, 07 315 5117,

Flying Nun Backpackers (BBH) 147 Roebuck Rd, 06 868 0461,

Opotiki Information Centre Cnr St John and Elliot Sts, 07 315 3031

east cape As you head around the Cape the towns get tinier and the scenery more dramatic. At Te Araroa, you can thead around to the East Cape Lighthouse. Brians Place (BBH) Potae St, Tokomaru Bay, 06 864 5870, Eastender Backpacker & Horse Treks (BBH) 836 Rangitukia Rd, Tikitiki, 06 864 3820,

YHA Gisborne 32 Harris St, 06 867 3269,

Lake Waikaremoana, 06 837 3900

napier Napier is a beautiful, surprising city. Its “pleasing to the eye” status is actually the result of an enormous earthquake which meant the entire town had to be rebuilt.

Glenross Lodge (BBH) Route 52, Rakaunui, 06 376 7288,

Depart of Conservation Office Marine Parade, 06 834 3111

Lochlea Farmstay (BBH) 344 Lake Rd, Wanstead, 06 8554 816

napier stay


Napier Prison Backpackers (BBH) 55 Coote Rd, 06 835 9933,

DOC office for hut bookings

The Rotten Apple Backpackers (BBH) 114 Heretaunga St, 06 878 4363,

Aqua Lodge (BBH) 53 Nelson Cres, 06 835 4523,

Wairoa is a large town, great as a stop-over before heading into the area’s main attraction: the gorgeous Te Urewera National Park.

Haere Mai Cottage (BBH) 49 Mitchell Rd, 06 838 6817

A1 Backpackers (BBH) 122 Stortford St, 06 873 4285,

Visitor Info Centre 100 Marine Parade, 06 834 1911

Criterion Art Deco Backpackers (VIP, Roamfree) 48 Emerson St, 06 835 2059,

Wairoa Visitor Information Centre Queen St, 06 838 7440

hastings Hastings is 20km south of Napier and most notable for its fertile plains, which have given birth to a multitude of beautiful parks, gardens and farms.

Travellers Lodge Hastings (BBH) 608 St Aubyn St, West Hastings, 06 878 7108,

wairarapa The Wairarapa is a green, tree-lined region north-east of Wellington, famous for its wine and its many sheep – quintessential NZ.

Waterfront Lodge & Backpackers (BBH) 217 Marine Pd, 06 835 3429,


YHA Napier 277 Marine Parade, 06 835 7039,

Home to the impressive Queen

word from the street


Discount upon presentation of this advert. Valid for single transaction only. Not to conjunction with any other offer be used in or discount. Expires 30 September 2013.

Valerius Liang, Indonesia Seen much of nz? I spent most of my time in Auckland City learning English. At the weekends, you usually I went on vacation outside Auckland, such as Rotorua, Waitomo Cave, Ahipara, and more. your favourite spot? Rotorua because of the landscapes and the Maori people, even if it did smell badly of sulfur. Favourite night spot? Auckland, the Lounge, a very good night club because it was small, people were not annoying me and the music was

Karetoto Road, Wairakei Tourist Park (10 minutes north of Taupō)

0800 4 THRILLS

HukafallsJet VJ-1235

very good.

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northisland Elizabeth Park, the Wairarapa Arts Centre, and the best-tasting icecream in New Zealand.



Downtown Wellington Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. 04 473 8482

Chanel Backpackers 14-18 Herbert St, 06 378 2877

Lodge in the City (VIP) 152 Taranaki St. 04 385 8560

taranaki Best known for its snow-capped mountain, Mt Taranaki. Peaceful and impressive, Taranaki has skifields, excellent surf beaches, great walking and climbing.

mokau Palm House Backpackers (BBH) 06 278 6523,

new plymouth Taranaki’s major town is New Plymouth. One of NZ’s finest art galleries is here (the GovettBrewster Art Gallery). It hosts a great café. Department of Conservation 220 Devon St West, 06 758 0433

plymouth stay Eco Inn (BBH) 671 Kent Rd, between Egmont Village and New Plymouth on SH3. 06 752 2765

148 Grey St, Palmerston North. Dorms from $21. Old fashioned, comfortable and wonderfully presented Grandma’s House is extremely comfortable and a great base for seeing the region. Palmerston North

notoriously volatile and you must always notify the DOC. North Egmont Visitors Centre, 06 758 3222.

stratford Stratford Information Centre Broadway Stratford (State Hwy 3), 06 765 6708, New Plymouth Info Centre Puke Ariki Complex, St Aubyn Street, 06 759 6080,

Seaspray House (BBH) 13 Weymouth St, 06 759 8934,

Department of Conservation Pembroke Rd, 06 765 5144

Sunflower Lodge (BBH) 33 Timandra St, 06 758, 2842 The Missing Leg (BBH) 1082 Junction Rd, Egmont Village, 06 752 2570,

plymouth do Taranaki Surf Charters 20 Beach Road, 025 592 306,

mt taranaki The Camphouse (BBH) 6 Egmont Rd, 02 74 538 975, Taranaki Accommodation Lodge (BBH) 7 Romeo St, Stratford, 06 765 5444,

taranaki do Climbing Mount Taranaki It is possible to climb it and return to civilisation in one day, however the weather is


Grandma’s Place

Egmont Lodge (BBH, YHA) 12 Clawton St, 06 753 5720,

Shoestring Backpackers (BBH) 48 Lemon St, 06 758 0404

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south taranaki Information South Taranaki 55 High St, Hawera, 0800 111 323, Wheatly Downs Farmstay Backpackers (BBH) 484 Ararata Rd, Hawera, 06 278 6523,

whanganui Braemar House (YHA) 2 Plymouth St, 06 348 2301, Tamara Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 24 Somme Pde, 06 347 6300, Whanganui National Park The major attraction is the Whanganui River, snaking through picturesque scenery. Explore with a kayak or riverboat tour. Wanganui Information Centre 101 Guyton St, 06 349 0508, Department of Conservation Office

Cnr Ingestre and St Hill Sts, 06 345 2402

palmerston nth Manawatu Visitor Centre 101 Guyton St, 06 490-508, Department of Conservation Office 717 Tremaine Ave, 06 358 9004 Grandma’s Place (BBH) 146 Grey St, 06 358 6928, Peppertree Hostel (BBH) 121 Grey St, 06 355 4054.

wellington The nation’s capital is to many people, New Zealand’s most interesting city. Te Papa, the multimillion dollar museum, has sealed its position as cultural capital too. Wellington has a small centre, is easily navigated on foot and as any Wellingtonian will tell you, it has more cafés per head than New York. The nightlife in “Welly” is pretty special too. Wellington Visitor Info Centre Corner of Victoria & Wakefield Sts, 04 802 4860, DOC Information Centre Lambton Quay, 04 472 7356 Ferry to the South Island Boats to Picton on the South Island. Ferries can be booked up well in advance in holiday periods. 0800 802 802, Ferry Tickets Online 186 Victoria St, 0800 500 660,

Experience the earthquake simulation room, find out what the early settlers went through and visit Te Marae, Te Papa’s living modern marae. Free entry, Cable St, 04 381 7000,

Maple Lodge (BBH) 52 Ellice St. 04 385 3771

Wellington Zoo Located in Newtown and home to a wide variety of weird and wonderful animal and bird life, 04 381 6750

Nomads Capital 118 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237,

Harbour cruises The harbour is a handsome thing and the best way to fully appreciate its beauty is by boat.

Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 McDonald Cres. 04 384 3041,

Wellington Rover Tours Small group day tours exploring Wellington, its stunning rugged coastline and the Lord of the Rings locations. 0800 426 211,

Rowena’s Backpackers (VIP) 115 Brougham St. 0800 80 1414 Wellywood Backpackers 58 Tory St. 0508 00 58 58 Worldwide Backpackers (BBH) 291 The Terrace. 04 802 5590, YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. 04 801 7280

welly do Cable car Walk down Lambton Quay and you will see a sign for the cable car which departs every 10 minutes past Kelburn Park to the Botanic Gardens, 04 472 2199 Cosmic Corner Funk Store The funkiest store in the universe. Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff, who will happily point you in the right direction for parties, events and scenic spots. 215 Cuba St, 04 801 6970, Karori Wildlife Sanctuary Many of New Zealand’s rarest birds, reptiles and insects are living freely in this awardwinning conservation safe haven. Look for kiwis on a guided tour by torchlight. Times vary and bookings are essential. Waiapu Rd, Karori. 04 920 9213, Mount Victoria The views are breathtaking. It’s damn windy so make sure you’re wearing heavy shoes. Walk, drive or bus it. Museum of Wellington City & Sea Queens Wharf, 04 472 8904

Base Wellington 21-23 Cambridge Tce. 04 801 5666

Parliament House Free tours. Visit the Beehive, a uniquely designed centre of government with a distinct style of architecture, 04 471 9503

Cambridge Hotel (BBH) 28 Cambridge Tce. 04 385 8829

Te Papa – The National Museum

welly stay


Beaches Wellington’s waterfront has cafés, restaurants and parks. Oriental Bay is good for a dip, but the water is cold and not always clean. It’s also good for a walk along the foreshore. If you are desperate for a swim, Scorching Bay is good or head up the coast towards Otaki where the best beaches in the region are found.

plimmerton Moana Lodge (BBH) 49 Moana Rd, 04 233 2010,

kapiti coast Tranz Rail The best way to explore the Kapiti Coast is by train and most places along the way can be reached within an hour or so, 04 498 3000 Stillwater Lodge (BBH) 34 Mana Esplanade, Mana, 04 233 6628

paekakariki Paekakariki Backpackers (BBH) 11 Wellington Rd, 04 902 5967, wellingtonbeachbackpackers.

paraparaumu The beach here is glorious and the scene of most of the action in town. Barnacles Seaside Inn (BBH, YHA) 3 Marine Parade, Paraparaumu, 0800 555 856,

kapiti is A sanctuary for rare native birds. There’s a good chance of seeing elusive kiwis and blue penguins. Kapiti Island Nature Tours Tours and accommodation, 06 362 6606,

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Photo: TNT Images

This central North Island town is famous for its geothermal activity and hot spring mud pools, thanks to a number of regularly spouting geysers. It is nature at its most exciting, but also most pungent, with all the volcanic goings on being to blame for the town’s infamous sulphur scent. The most renowned geyser in the region, the Pohutu Geyser, which means ‘big splash or explosion’, usually erupts up to 30 metres high every hour. Just over a third of Rotorua’s population is Maori and the locals take full advantage of all the geothermal activity for their cooking and heating. It is also a great place to indulge in a spa treatment or two, with the bubbling mud pools being full of natural ingredients that are wonderful for the skin. No trip to Rotorua is complete without visiting the living thermal village,

Single, twin, double, triple and share-room budget accommodation and we are the only Wellington backpacker hostel with camping facilities & free off-street parking

Rowena’s Lodge is ideally located amidst the tranquil green surroundings of Mount Victoria with panoramic views yet only minutes away from Wellington city centre and the Wellington entertainment precinct of Courtenay Place

NZ freephone 0800 80 14 14 Ph/Fx +64 4 385 7872 email: www.

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southisland abel tasman The Abel Tasman National Park has great tramping with 56,000 acres to explore. The Coastal Track is one of the most popular walks in New Zealand, especially in summer when you can cool down at the stunning beaches. Nelson, Motueka and Marahau are all good bases for visiting the park. Sea kayaking is excellent here too.

abel do Wilsons Abel Tasman Sea kayaking, water taxis and lodge accommodation. 0800 223 582, Abel Tasman Kayaks Ltd 0800 732 529

nelson Nelson is seen as the “sunshine capital” of NZ. Home to a string of attractive beaches, Nelson is only a short drive away from the famous Abel Tasman National Park. The town boasts great cafés and a strong artistic subculture. Nelson’s great climate is conducive to fruit growing and travellers can find plenty of work in the area. Nelson Visitor Centre Cnr Trafalgar & Halifax St, 03 548 2304, Airport Shuttle 03 547 5782 Nelson City Taxis 03 548 8225

nelson stay Abode of the Buddha 181 Nile St East. 03 546 6890, Accents on the Park (BBH/VIP) 335 Trafalgar Square. 03 548 4335, Almond House (BBH) 63 Grove St. 03 545 6455, Alpine Lodge St Arnaud. 03 521 1869, Beach Hostel (BBH) 25 Muritai St. 03 548 6817, The Bug (BBH) 226 Vanguard St. 03 539 4227, The Customhouse (BBH) 252 Haven Rd. 03 545 8365,

Hu Ha Bikerpackers (BBH) State Highway 6, Glenhope. 03 548 2707, The Palace Backpackers (BBH) 114 Rutherford St. 03 548 4691, Paradiso (BBH) 42 Weka St. 0800 269 667, Rylands’ Retreat 163 Trafalgar St. 03 548 4691, The Palace Backpackers (BBH) 114 Rutherford St. 03 548 9001, Shortbread Cottage (BBH) 33 Trafalgar St. 03 546 6681 Tasman Bay Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 10 Weka St. 03 548 7950, Trampers Rest (BBH) 31 Alton St. 03 545 7477 Welcome House (BBH) 108 Parkers Road, Tahunahui. 03 548 5462 YHA Nelson Central 59 Rutherford St. 03 545 9988,

nelson do Abel Tasman Kayaks 0800 527 8022, Happy Valley 4x4 Motorbike Adventures Tours around spectacular private farm on chunky fourwheel motorbikes. 03 545 0304, Kaiteriteri kayaks Free transport from Nelson. 03 527 8383, Skydive Abel Tasman Tandem jumps from 13,000ft over Abel Tasman. 0800 422 899,

nelson lakes Located 118km south-west of Nelson, the park comprises Lake Rotoroa and Lake Rotoiti, and is surrounded by forests and mountains. Apart from tramping and skiing at Rainbow Valley and Mt Robert in winter, the lakes offer fishing and other water activities.


03 528 6543,

motueka stay Bakers Lodge (YHA) 4 Poole St. 03 528 0102, The Barn (BBH) Harvey Road, Marahau. 03 527 8043 Eden’s Edge Backpackers (BBH) 137 Lodder Lane, Riwaka. 03 528 4242, Lagoon Lodge (BBH) 500 High St. 03 528 8652, Hat Trick Lodge (BBH) 25 Wallace St. 03 528 5353, The Laughing Kiwi (BBH) 310 High St. 03 528 9229, Old Macdonald’s Farm Holiday Park 03 527 8288, The White Elephant (BBH) 55 Whakarewa St. 03 528 6208, Vineyard Tourist Units & Cabins 328 High St. 03 528 8550

motueka do Wilsons Abel Tasman 265 High St, 0800 223 582, Southern Exposure Abel Tasman Sea Kayaking & Water Taxis 0800 695 292,

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Kanuka Ridge (BBH) 21 Moss Rd, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 03 527 8435,

The Nook (BBH) Abel Tasman Dr. 03 525 8501,

318 Waikawa Rd.

Bayview Backpackers (BBH)

03 573 7668,

River Inn (BBH) Golden Bay. 03 525 9425

Shambhala (BBH) Hwy 60, Onekaka. 03 525 8463,

The Jugglers Rest (BBH) 8

kahurangi np The second-largest national park in NZ, Kahurangi includes the Heaphy Track. There are more than 100 bird species and an impressive cave system to be seen here. For info see the Nelson DOC office.

collingwood North-west of Takaka is the tiny community of Collingwood (the people aren’t particularly small, their numbers are), a good base for expeditions to Farewell Spit. The Innlet (BBH) Main Rd, Pakawau. 03 524 8040, Somerset House (BBH) Gibbs Rd. 03 524 8624,

farewell spit Arching east from the top of Golden Bay, this is a sand bar of epic proportions, home to some of the largest sanddunes in the world and some amazing birdlife. Golden Bay Visitor Centre 03 525 9136

Canterbury St. 03 573 5570, Picton Lodge (VIP) 9 Auckland St. 03 573 7788, Sequoia Lodge (BBH, VIP) 3 Nelson Sq. 03 573 8399, Picton Lodge (VIP) 9 Auckland St. 03 573 7788, The Villa (BBH) 34 Auckland St. 03 573 6598, Tombstone Backpackers (BBH) 16 Gravesend Place. 03 573 7116,



Wedgwood House (YHA)

Known as the “Heart of the Parks”, the much underrated Golden Bay region is a place of considerable natural beauty. If you venture slightly out of Takaka you will see the Te Waikoropupu (Pupu Springs), one of the largest freshwater springs in the world.

The Marlborough Sounds are a beautiful labyrinth of islands and bays, serving as an impressive gateway to the South Island. Hire a kayak to paddle the coves in style, or go swimming with the dolphins.

10 Dublin St. 03 573 7797,

Information Centre Willow St, 03 525 9136 Dept of Conservation Office 62 Commercial St, 03 525 8026

takaka stay Annie’s Nirvana Lodge (BBH, YHA) 25 Motupipi St. 03 525 8766, Aquapackers (BBH) Anchorage Bay, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 0800 430 744,

The Green Monkey (BBH) 129 Milton St. 03 545 7421,

This is an alternative hang-out for creative types and those seeking to veer off life’s fast lane. Most people use Motueka as a base to launch an assault on Abel Tasman National Park, but if you take the time to look around your efforts will be well rewarded. Try Marahau Beach and Cobb Valley.

Honey Suckle House (BBH) 125 Tasman St.

Motueka i-SITE Visitors Centre 20 Wallace St,

Kiwiana (BBH) 73 Motuipipi St. 03 525 7676

Footprints by the Sea (BBH) 31 Beach Rd, Tahuna Beach. 03 546 5441,


03 548 7576


Golden Bay Barefoot Backpackers (BBH) 114 Commercial St. 03 525 7005,

Anakiwa Backpackers (BBH) 410 Anakiwa Rd. 03 574 1388,

picton do Dolphin Watch Encounters

Hopewell (BBH) Kenepuru Rd. 03 573 4341,

Picton Foreshore,

The Partage Resort Hotel Kenepuru Sound. 03 573 4309,

03 573 8040,

picton This pretty town is the opening to the South Island, where the North Island ferry comes in, a centre for the many activities in Queen Charlotte Sound. Airport shuttle bus 03 573 7125

picton stay Atlantis Backpackers (BBH) London Quay. 03 573 7390, Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company 03 573 6078 Southern Wilderness NZ Guided walk, wine trek and sea kayaking specialists. 0800 666 044,

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Waka Whenua Tours Wine tours. Sightseeing/ historical/ cultural tours also available. 03 573 7877

Bluemoon Lodge (BBH) 48 Main Rd. 03 574 2212,

queen charlotte

Nikau Cottages 48 Main Rd. 03 443 9010

On the road-free outer Queen Charlotte Sound, everyone and everything travels by boat. The Queen Charlotte Track covers 71km and passes through magnificent forest, at times allowing spectacular views over the Marlborough Sounds. The whole track can be walked in four days, though you can also ride it by mountain bike. Endeavour Express Water Taxi Day-trips, round-trips and luggage transfers. 03 573 5456

havelock Nestled at the head of Pelorus Sound, Havelock is the best place from which to explore the Marlborough Sounds. For trampers and mountain bikers there’s the beautiful Nydia Track. DOC Office Mahakipawa Rd, 03 574 2019 Explore Pelorus Sea Kayaks 03 576 5251

havelock stay

Rutherford YHA Hostel 46 Main Road. 03 574 2104,

pelorus sound

Leeways Backpackers (BBH) 33 Lansdowne St. 03 579 2213, Peacehaven Backpackers (BBH) 29 Budge St. 03 577 9750, Stoney Acre 9 Marldene Avenue, Seddon. 03 578 6303,


The largest waterway within the Marlborough Sounds, it can be accessed from Havelock, Linkwater or Rai Valley.

Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain range. You can also snorkel with dolphins or swim with the inquisitive NZ fur seals (Sept-May).


Kaikoura Visitor Info Centre, West End, 03 319 5641

The largest town in Marlborough, and considered (ahem, also) the“sunshine capital of New Zealand”. Whitewater rafting on the Buller and Gowan Rivers is great fun.

kaikoura stay Dusky Lodge (BBH) 67 Beach Rd. 03 319 5959 The Lazy Shag (BBH) 37 Beach St. 03 319 6662 Lyell Creek Lodge (BBH) 193 Beach Rd. 03 319 6277, Sunrise Lodge (BBH) 74 Beach Rd. 03 319 7444 Top Spot Backpackers (BBH) 22 Deal St. 03 319 5540 YHA Kaikoura, Maui 270 Esplanade. 03 319 5931,

kaikoura do

Adelphi Lodge (BBH, VIP) 26 West End. 0800 423 574,

Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain r

Blenheim I-Site 8 Sinclair Street Railway Station 03 577 8080

Albatross Backpacker Inn (BBH) 1 Torquay St. 03 319 6090,

Honi-B-Backpackers (BBH) 18 Parker St. 03 577 8441,

Bad Jelly Backpackers (BBH) 11 Churchill St. 03 319 5538,

Albatross Encounter Enjoy the sight of the magnificent albatross so close to the boat you can almost touch them. 96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365

Koanui Backpackers (BBH) 33 Main St. 03 578 7487,

Dolphin Lodge (BBH) 15 Deal St. 03 319 5842,

word from the street

Dolphin Encounter Swim with the acrobatic dusky dolphins or if you prefer, join

the tour to view them from the boat. 96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365, Fyffe House 62 Avoca St, Kaikoura’s oldest building, 03 319 5835. Kaikoura Kayaks Paddle with the playful fur seals, dusky dolphins and marine life of Kaikoura. Seal kayaking, kayak school, hire, retail and kayak fishing. 19 Killarney St, 0800 452 456, Seal Swim Kaikoura Swim with wild NZ Fur Seals. 58 West End, 0800 732 579,

christchurch Christchurch is the South Island’s major city and a lively, pretty base with a distinctly English feel to it. Throw in Mount Cook and Mount Hutt with their skifields (early June to late October) and the Canterbury area is well worth spending some time discovering. Christchurch & Canterbury i-Site Visitor Centre Rolleston Avenue (Next to the Canterbury Museum) Christchurch 8011


Harry Meeuwsen, Netherlands Seen much of nz? We’ve been driving around the South Island, starting and ending in Christchurch. I have also been to Rotorua, Taupo, Waitomo, Cape Reinga, and a few other places. your favourite spot? I did a canyon swing in Queenstown. It was absolutely marvellous. I was scared but had fun! What’s most memorable I did and saw a lot of awesome things but the glacier walk in Franz Josef was really cool. We did the fullday walk. It was so beautiful.

milford sound One of the most beautiful places in New Zealand (and there’s some serious competition!), Milford Sound is definitely worth the mission to the country’s south-west. Indeed the drive there is as spectacular as the destination – all winding roads, gaping drops, dense woodland and crashing waterfalls. Once there, head out onto the water and keep your eyes peeled for seals and penguins.

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southisland 03 379 9629 Department of Conservation 4/195 Hereford Street (03) 371 3700

c’church stay Around the World Backpackers 314 Barbadoes Street. 03 365 4363 At The Right Place 85 Bealey Street. 03 366 1633 Avon City Backpackers Worcester Street. 03 389 6876, Canterbury House (BBH) 257 Bealey Ave. 03 377 8108, Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. 03 377 1897, Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. 03 366 9720, Haka Lodge 518 Linwood Ave. 03 980 4252 Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546 Kiwi Basecamp (BBH) 69 Bealey Ave. 03 366 6770 Kiwi House 373 Gloucester St. 03 381 6645 Marine Backpackers 26 Nayland St. 03 326 6609 Point Break Backpackers (BBH) 99 Seaview Road. 03 388 2050

This surf beach is also a great place to chill for a while. If you’re feeling adventurous, mountain biking, paragliding and surfing are just some of the activities you can try. The Marine Backpackers (BBH) 26 Nayland St. 03 326 6609,

banks peninsula Banks Peninsula is a beautiful region with a stunning coastline chock full of mountains and wildlife. The two harbours of Akaroa and Lyttelton are craters of a once majestic volcano.

lyttelton Lyttelton is a quaint township with a beautiful scenic harbour and historic buildings. The harbour is a great place for boating, while the surrounding hills are good for mountain biking and walking. Lyttelton Information Centre 20 Oxford St, 03 328 9093

akaroa Swim with dolphins, horse-ride and paraglide. If your tastes are a little more sedate, the foreshore is lined with cafes, galleries and boutiques. Akaroa Information Centre 80 Rue Lavaud, 03 304 8600 Akaroa Shuttle Christchurch to Akaroa buses. 0800 500 929 Akaroa French Connection Tours and shuttle bus, 0800 800 575

akaroa stay

The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. 03 381 5504

Bon Accord Backpackers (BBH) 57 Rue Lavaud. 03 304 7782,

Tranquil Lodge (BBH) 440 Manchester St. 03 366 6500

Chez La Mer (BBH) 50 Rue Lavaud. 03 304 7024,

Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. 03 377 7931

Double Dutch (BBH) 32 Chorlton Road, Okains Bay. 03 304 7229,

Vagabond Backpackers (BBH) 232 Worcester St. 03 379 9677 vagabondbackpackers

Halfmoon Cottage (BBH) SH25 Barrys Bay. 03 304 5050,

c’church do Black Cat Cruises Wildlife Cruises on Lyttelton Harbour. Free shuttle bus from Christchurch, 03 328 9078. Skydiving and training courses, 0800 697 593 Up Up and Away Hot air ballooning, 03 381 4600,



Onuku Farm Hostel (BBH) 03 304 7066,

akaroa do Akaroa Museum 71 Rue Lavard, 03 304 1013 Black Cat Cruises Offer a number of cruises in Akaroa. See Akaroa Harbour or swim with dolphins. 03 328 9078. Dolphin Experience Swim with dolphins in Akaroa Harbour. 61 Beach Rd, 0508 365 744,

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lewis pass About 200km north of Christchurch, the Lewis Pass connects the west and east coasts on the SH7, with stunning surrounding scenery.

hanmer springs Hanmer Springs boasts the Hanmer Springs Thermal Reserve, where the water can reach 40°C (03 315 7511, Mt Lyford offers good winter skiing and is a cheaper option to the South Island resorts. Department of Conservation Cnr Amuri Rd & Jacks Pass Rd, 03 315 7128 The Hanmer Connection Christchurch to Hanmer Springs buses. 0800 242 663

hanmer stay Hanmer Backpackers (BBH) 41 Conical Hill Rd. 03 315 7196, Kakapo Lodge (YHA) 14 Amuri Avenue. 03 315 7472, Le Gite Backpackers (BBH) 3 Devon St. 03 315 5111, Waipara Sleepers (BBH) 12 Glenmark Dr, Waipara. 03 314 6003,

castle hill Gateway to the Craigieburn Range. Chill Adventures Multi-mountain snow passes. Springfield Hotel State Highway 73, Springfield. 03 318 4812,

arthur’s pass This township is the HQ for the magnificent national park which offers tramping expeditions to skiing. National Park Visitor Centre 03 318 9211 Rata Lodge Backpackers (BBH) State Highway 73, Otira Arthur’s Pass National Park. 03 738 2822 Smylies Accommodation (YHA) 03 318 9258,

methven Methven is a small, friendly town popular with fishermen, hunters and backpackers. The area provides a variety of adrenalin thrills, including hot air ballooning, bungy jumping and skydiving. Mt Hutt also has the longest ski run in Australasia. Methven i-SITE Visitor Centre 121 Main St, Methven,

03 302 8955, NZ Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt.

methven stay


lake tekapo A stunning turquoise-coloured lake, 100km west of Timaru. The tiny Church of the Good Shepherd, built in 1935, frames the view beautifully. Activities include walking, watersports, fishing and skiing.

Big Tree Lodge (BBH) 25 South Belt. 03 302 9575,

Tailor-Made-Tekapo Backpackers (BBH) 9-11 Aorangi Cres. 03 680 6700, rtailor-made-backpackers@

Backpacker Heaven (YHA) Cnr Bank & McMillan Sts. 03 302 8999,

Lake Tekapo Backpackers (VIP) SH8. 03 680 6808, stay@laketekapo.bix

Kowhai House (BBH) 17 McMillan St. 03 302 8887, Mt Hutt Bunkhouse (BBH) 8 Lampard St. 03 302 8894, Pinedale Backpacker Lodge (BBH) 11 Alford St. 0800 638 483, Redwood Lodge (BBH) 3 Wayne Place. 03 302 8964, Skiwi House (BBH) 30 Chapman St. 03 302 8772, Snow Denn Lodge (YHA, VIP) Cnr Bank & McMillan Sts. 03 302 8999,

timaru Despite being industrial, it’s picturesque with views of the Southern Alps, plains and sea. 1873 Wanderer Backpackers (BBH) 24 Evans St. 03 688 8795 Old Bank Backpackers 232 Stafford St. 03 684 4392 Timaru Backpackers 44 Evans St. 03 684 5067 Toru Toru Wha Backpackers 334 Stafford St. 03 684 4729

geraldine As well as a wonderful old movie theatre and whitewater rafting on the Rangitata River, visiting the mighty Emily Falls is recommended. Geraldine Information Centre Talbot Street, 03 693 1006 4x4 New Zealand Wilderness adventures and The Lord of the Rings tours, 03 693 7254, Rangitata Rafts Peel Forest, 0800 251 251 Rawhiti Backpackers (BBH) 27 Hewlings St. 03 693 8252

fairlie Mt Dobson Ski Area, 03 685 8039, Tallyho Lodge & Backpackers 7 School Rd. 03 685 8723

YHA Lake Tekapo 3 Simpson Lane. 03 680 6857,

mt cook Mount Cook National Park is part of a World Heritage area that forms one of the most amazing sights anywhere in New Zealand. The showcase is the majestic Mt Cook (Aoraki). NZ’s greatest climber Sir Edmund Hillary used it as a practice ground before conquering Mt Everest, but Mt Cook has claimed the lives of more than 160 people. Discuss climbing plans with park rangers before you go. Department of Conservation Visitor Information Centre Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Village, 03 435 1819 The Cook Connection Day trips to Mt Cook from Tekapo. Ph: 021 583 211,

mt cook stay Mountain Chalets (VIP) Wairepo Rd, Twizel. 03 435 0785, YHA Mt Cook Cnr Bowen and Kitchener Drives. 03 435 1820,

west coast Rugged is the word often used when it comes to the South Island’s west coast. It’s quite an amazing place, sparsely inhabited, untouched in many areas and studded with geographical wonders. Don’t miss the two mighty glaciers, Fox and Franz Josef, or the Pancake Rocks.

karamea Karamea contains pleasant walks, interesting caves and the Oparara River, a great trout fishing spot. Walk along the wonderful Fernian Track or, try the more challenging hike up Mt Stormy. Karamea Information Centre Bridge St, 03 782 6652 Rongo (BBH) 03 782 6667,

murchison With crazy terrain skewed by mining and earthquakes, one of the major attractions of Murchison is its

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proximity to Buller Gorge, a wonderfully scenic cluster of cliffs and trees. Activities include rafting on the Gowan River and mountain biking on the Matakitaki. Buller Gorge Swingbridge Adventure and Heritage Park 03 523 9809, The Lazy Cow Accommodation (BBH) 37 Waller St. 03 523 9451,

reefton The centrepiece of the town is Victoria Forest Park, the largest forest park in New Zealand.

03 789 6410,

Visitor Information Punakaiki 03 731 1895

Beaconstone (BBH) Birds Ferry Road, Charleston. 03 715 5760

Barrytown Knife Making 2662 Coast Road, Barrytown, 03 731 1053,

Berlins Café & Lodgings (BBH) 1205 Lower Buller Gorge, Inangahua Junction. 03 789 0295, Pounamu Backpackers (BBH) Section 406, S H’way 6m Charleston. 03 789 8011, Robyn’s Nest Hostel 42 Romilly St. 03 789 6565,

Reefton Visitor Centre 67 Broadway, 03 732 8391

Swaines (BBH) Inangahua Landing Bridge, Highway 69, Inangahua Jnctn. 03 789 0226,

Reefton Backpackers 64 Shiel St. 03 732 8133,

TripInn (BBH) 72 Queen St. 03 789 7367

The Old Nurses Home (BBH) 204 Shiel St. 03 789 8881

The Old Slaughterhouse (BBH) Highway 67, Hector. 03 782 8333

westport Visitor Information Westport 1 Brougham St, 03 789 6658 Basils Hostel (VIP) 54 Russell St.



paparoa np This park is home to the amazing Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. These are a series of eroded limestone rocks moulded into what appears to be a giant stack of pancakes.

paparoa stay Punakaiki Beach Hostel (BBH) 4 Webb St. 03 731 1852, Te Nikau Retreat (BBH, YHA) 03 731 1111, All Nations Hotel & Backpackers (VIP) SH6, Barrytown. 03 731 1812,

greymouth The west coast’s largest town is dominated by the Grey River. Highlights include the Monteith’s brewery tour, as well as aquatic activities like rafting and canyoning. Visitor Information Herbert and Mackay Sts, 03 768 5101 TranzAlpine Scenic railway from Christchurch to Greymouth, travelling through Canterbury Plains and the Alps. Departs 9am every morning. 0800 872 467


greymouth stay The west coast’s largest town is dominated by the Duke Backpackers (BBH) 27 Guiness St. 03 768 9470 Global Village (BBH) 42-54 Cowper St, Ph: (03) 768 7272, The Hairy Lemon 128-130 Mawhera Quay, 03 768 4022, Neptunes International Backpackers (BBH) 43 Gresson St, 0800 003 768, Noahs Ark Backpackers (BBH) 16 Chapel St, 03 768 4868, The Ranch 37 MacDougall Ave, 03 762 7801, YHA Greymouth Kainga-ra 15 Alexander St, Ph: (03) 768 4951,

Greenstone, a form of practically indestructible rock that was used by the Maori to make weapons and ornaments, is the main attraction here. There’s also the Westland Water World for all things wet, the Glowworm Dell and some excellent whitewater rafting. Hokitika Visitor Info Centre Carnegie Building, corner of Hamilton & Tancred Street, 03 755 6166

hokitika stay Beach House BPs 137 Revell St, 03 755 6859 Birdsong (BBH) 124 SH6, 03 755 7179 Drifting Sands Backpackers (BBH) 197 Revell St, 03 755 7612, Mountain Jade Backpackers (BBH) 41 Weld St, 03 755 8007, Riverview Cabins (BBH) 154 Kaniere Rd, 03 755 7440 Stumpers Accommodation 2 Weld St, 03 755 6154,


Dunedin New Zealand’s oldest city Dunedin, located in the South Island’s south-east, has strong connections to Scotland, thanks to early settlers turning up in the area after finding the Australian climate too humid for their liking. The cooler coastal weather reminded them of home and even today this town is full of shops and reminders of the Scots culture. Even the name ‘Dunedin’ comes from the Gaelic word for Edinburgh. A gold rush in the 1850s provided a jump in population and Dunedin has been thriving ever since. These days the city is a big student town and has an abundance of fresh seafood and local wildlife, with sea lions, fur seals and penguins all being easily spotted along the Otago coastline. It is also home to one of New Zealand’s most famous beers – Speights, which is an icon of the South Island. Visitors can tour the brewery – which is still standing on the original 1876 site – and enjoy one (or many) of the award-winning varieties of beers being produced. Record fans might want to head to Baldwin Street in the suburbs, which is widely considered the steepest road in the world.

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BOOK NOW! Boasting the most sceneray from Wanaka Sightseeing those films with wizards and hairy- Includes Lord of the Rings tours, footed hobbits, there are great Lord 2 Anderson Rd, 03 338 0982, of the Rings tours, too.

hokitika do Alpine Rafts Freephone: 0800 223 456.

Lake Wanaka Visitors Centre The Log Cabin, Lakefront, 100 Ardmore Street. 03 4431 1233

The Just Jade Experience Design and create your own treasures with NZ jade/ greenstone. Allow at least 6-10 hours. 197 Revell St, 03 755 7612,

wanaka stay

whataroa About 35km south of Harihari and one of the South Island’s prime fishing spots. Also the magnificent white heron (Kotuku) colony which thrillseekers can reach by jet boat.



The Flaming Kiwi

The tiny beach settlement of Okarito, near Franz Josef Glacier, sits at the mouth of New Zealand’s largest unmodified wetland – the Okarito Lagoon. Hike up to the Okarito Trig for excellent views. Okarito Nature Tours 03 753 4014, Royal Hostel (BBH) The Strand, 03 753 4080, YHA Okarito Palmerston St, Whataroa, 03 753 4347,

franz josef The glacier is about 12km long and offers a wide variety of challenging activities. To get the ultimate perspective on the magnitude of Franz Josef, head for Sentinel Rock, which gives a sweeping view over both the Waiho Valley and the mighty glacier. DOC Visitors Information Centre Westland National Park, Hwy 6, 03 752 0796

franz stay Black Sheep (VIP) SH 6, 03 752 0007 Chateau Franz (VIP, BBH) 8-10 Cron St, 0800 728 372, Glow Worm Cottages (BBH) 27 Cron St, 0800 151 027, Montrose (BBH) 9 Cron St, 03 752 0188, Rainforest Retreat (VIP) Cron St, 0800 873 346 YHA Franz Josef 2-4 Cron St, 03 752 0754,

franz do Alpine Adventure Centre Footage on a helimax screen,


39 Robins Road Queenstown. Beds from $25 Friendly and centrally located, the Flaming Kiwi also offers loads of frees stuff for it’s guests to enjoy.


03 752 0793 Franz Josef Glacier Guides Guided walks and heli-hikes on the Franz Josef Glacier 0800 484 337, Glacier Country Kayaks Explore the glaciers from the water 03 752 0230, Skydive Franz At 18,000ft, they currently offer NZ’s highest skydive. 0800 458 677, The Guiding Company 0800 800 102,

fox glacier Similiar activities to Franz Josef only with fewer crowds. The best walk is up to the Welcome Flat Hot Springs. For stunning views, head up the wonderfully scenic Chalet Lookout Walk. Look out for the beautiful kea (grey-green mountain parrot). Nearby is Lake Matheson, with its stunning twin mountain reflection. DOC Visitor Centre State Hwy 6, 03 751 0807

fox stay Fox Glacier Inn 03 751 0088 Ivory Towers (BBH) 03 751 0838,

fox do Fox Glacier Guiding Guided walks and heli-hikes on the FoxGlacier. 0800 111 600, Glacier Country Kayaks 20 Cron St, 0800 423 262,

Skydive NZ: Fox Glacier 0800 751 0080,

haast pass Running through Mt Aspiring National Park, this stretch of road is among the most scenic that you’ll come across in New Zealand, showing off pristine lakes, magnificent forests and waterfalls. DOC Centre Cnr SH 6 and Jackson Bay Rd, 03 750 0809 Haast Highway Accommodation Marks Rd, 03 750 0703 Wilderness Backpackers (BBH) Marks Rd, 03 750 029,

southland The top of your chest will quickly get sore as the South Island’s jawdropping scenery becomes more prevalent. From the adrenalin thrills of Queenstown to the achingly beautiful Milford Sound, there’s never a dull moment down south. Stop frequently, take deep breaths and enjoy one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Mt Aspiring National Park Visitor Info Centre Cnr Ballantyne Rd &  Ardmore St, 03 443 8372

lake wanaka The cosy town and its crystal-clear waters which reflect the dramatic landscape is the gateway to Mount Aspiring Park. The World Heritage area has magnificent tramping and mountaineering. Lake Wanaka boasts almost as many adrenalintastic activities as neighbouring Queenstown, such as mountain biking, jet-boating, canyoning, and whitewater sledging. It’s a favourite with snowboarders in winter, and has lively nightlife year-round.

Albert Town Lodge (BBH) Cnr SH6 and Kingston St, Albert Town, 03 443 9487, Holly’s Backpackers (BBH) 71 Upton St, 03 443 8187, Mountain View Backpackers (BBH) 7 Russell St, 0800 112 201, The Purple Cow (BBH) 94 Brownston St, 03 443 1880, Wanaka Bakpaka (BBH) 117 Lakeside Rd, 03 443 7837, YHA Wanaka 181 Upton St, 03 443 7405,

wanaka do Adventure Consultants Mountaineering instruction courses and guided ascents, 03 443 8711,

lake hawea Thirty-five kilometres long and more than 400m deep, Lake Hawea is a great source of salmon and rainbow trout.

queenstown Paradise for the energetic traveller, Queenstown is one of the world’s most action-packed towns. The town, which is surprisingly small compared to its big reputation, is located on Lake Wakatipu and rises up to the peaks of the aptly-named Remarkables (which you can ski in winter). In winter, the town is a centre for nearby skifields and in summer adventure activities and tramping take over. There’s also a hectic social scene which extends well into the wee small hours. Info & Track Walking Centre 37 Shotover St, 03 442 9708 Peterpans Adventure Travel 27 Shotover St Queenstown. Queenstown Travel & Visitor Centre Corner of Shotover & Camp Sts, 03 442 4100

q’town stay Alpine Lodge (BBH) 13 Gorge Rd. 03 442 7220,

Aspiring Guides Guided mountain climbing and ice climbing instruction courses, 03 443 9422, Aspen Lodge (BBH) 11 Gorge Rd. 03 442 9671, Classic Flights Vintage Tiger Moth flights over Base Discovery Lodge Lake Wanaka. 03 443 4043, Queenstown 49 Shotover St. 03 441 1185, Black Sheep Lodge (BBH/VIP) Deep Canyon 13 Frankton Rd. 03 442 7289, Canyoning in the Matukituki Valley. Adventure Wanaka, 23 Dunmore St, Wanaka. 03 443 Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 7922, 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286, Frogz Have More Fun Sledge down either the Clutha, Butterfli Lodge (BBH) 62 Hawea or Kawarau Rivers. Thompson St. 03 442 6367, 0800 437 649, Cardrona Alpine Resort Between The Silver Demon Queenstown and Wanaka. 03 Aerobatic flights. 03 443 4043, 443 7341, Deco Backpackers (VIP, BBH) Skydive Lake Wanaka 52 Man St. 03 442 7384, Freefall from 12,000 or 15,000ft with views of NZ’s highest Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) mountains. 0800 786 877, 39 Robins Rd. 03 442 5494, Treble Cone Ski Field Hippo Lodge (BBH) 03 443 7443, 4 Anderson Hts. 03 442 5785, Wanaka Rock Climbing Nomads Queenstown One, three and five-day rock 5-11 Church St. 03 441 3922, climbing courses for everyone. 03 443 6411, Pinewood Lodge (VIP) Queenstown’s best value Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise accommodation. We offer an excellent variety of from Wanaka, accommodation, everything 03 443-8787, from deluxe en-suite rooms with f

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the best

day OF yOUR


wedding da y first child Fra nz Jos ef gla cie r adventu re! aLL eQUIPMeNt PROVIded heLI hIKes INCLUde hOt POOLs eNtRy

Freephone: 0800 GUIdes

mt cook It’s the tallest mountain in Australasia, at 3,754m, and the drive there, past the stunning blue Lake Pukaki is almost as jaw-droppingly gorgeous as the destination itself.

0800 279 464 George Gunn

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Walter Peak High Country Farm. 0800 65 65 01, Shotover Canyon Swing Jump or be released 109m off the world’s highest cliff jump. 0800 279 464, Shotover Jet Jetboat ride. 0800 746 868 Sky Trek Hang Gliding 03 442 9551,

CHECK IN! Point Break Backpackers 6 Union Street, New Brighton. Beds from $25 Cosy dorms and private rooms available in a friendly, well equipped hostel with easy access to the city. Why would you go anywhere else?


private bathroom amenities, inexpensive double and twin rooms, dorm beds and selfcontained family cabins. 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 746 396, 03 442 8273, Resort Lodge (BBH) 6 Henry St. 03 442 4970, Scallywags Traveller’s Guesthouse (BBH) 27 Lomond Crescent. 03 442 7083 Southern Laughter (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 728 448, The Last Resort (BBH) 6 Memorial St. 03 442 4320, Thomas’s Hotel & BPs (VIP) 50 Beach St. 03 442 7180 YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street. 03 442 7400, YHA Queenstown Lakefront 88-90 Lake Esplanade. 03 442 8413,

q’town do There are hundreds of activities to keep you occupied in Queenstown. Bungy, jetboating and rafting are all experiences not to be missed, and in winter, skiing the Remarkables is a must. To really appreciate the beauty of the region, take a scenic flight, or even jump out the plane. AJ Hackett Bungy Queenstown Jump off one or all of New Zealand’s most well-known sites. Nevis Highwire Bungy, the highest in New Zealand – 134m above the Nevis River. The Kawarau Bridge, the world’s first bungy – 43m above the Kawarau River. The 47m Ledge, 400m above the town which you can jump day or night. Access is by Skyline Gondola. 0800 286 4958 Awesome Foursome Bungy (Nevis – 134m), jetboat, helicopter, whitewater rafting,


03 442 7318 Dart River Safaris Jetboating wilderness tours, 0800 327 8538, Fat Tyre Adventure Mountain biking/heli biking, 0800 328 897, Fergburger Best burgers in NZ. Shotover St, 03 441 1232 Flight Park Tandem Paragliding Operates from Coronet Peak 0800 467 325, Haka Adventure Snow Tours 03 980 4250, Mad Dog River Boarding River sledging & other actionpacked water activities, 03 442 7797, Milford Sound Flightseeing Scenic flights to Milford Sound, 0800 65 65 01, Nevis Snowmobile Safaris Helicopter ride & snowmobile adventure, 03 442 4250, NZONE Skydive Skydive from 15,000ft. 35 Shotover St, 03 442 5867, NZ Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt, Queenstown Rafting Raft the Shotiver, Kawarau and Landsborough rivers. 35 Shotover St. 03 442 9792 Real Journeys Visitor Centre Doubtful Sound & Milford Sound daytime and overnight cruises. Te Anau glow-worm cave excursions. TSS Earnslaw vintage steamship cruises and

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Vertigo Mountain Biking Heli-bike and gondola downhill. 0800 837 8446,

glenorchy Just out of Queenstown is Glenorchy (or “Isengard”) which has some of the best walks in the area, including the Greenstone and Caples tracks.

Dunedin 0800 277 483 Top Line Tours Coach to and from Te Anau and Queenstown, 03 249 8059

te anau stay

Glenorchy Backpackers Retreat (VIP) Cnr Mull and Argyle Streets, Glenorchy, Ph: (03) 442 9902

Te Anau Lakefront Backpackers (BBH) 48 Lakefront Dr, 03 249 7713,

Kinloch Lodge (BBH) 862 Kinloch Rd, 03 442 4900,

YHA Te Anau 29 Mokonui St, 03 249 7847,

Riverdown Guesthouse (BBH) 7 Bedford St, 03 409 8499

te anau Home to the second largest lake in NZ, Te Anau is a beautiful little town, a good jumping off point for the World Heritage Fiordland National Park. The park is the largest in New Zealand and offers some spectacular sightseeing. The Milford Track is one of the most famous in the world, but often booked out. The Routeburn, ReesDart and Kepler are ace alternatives. Fiordland I-site Visitor Centre Lakefront Drive, Te Anau, 03 249 8900 Department of Conservation 03 249 8514 Te Anau Glowworm Caves Air Fiordland Flights to Queenstown, Milford and Mt Cook, 03 249 7505 Real Journeys Coaches to Milford Sound, 0800 656 503 Scenic Shuttle Daily between Te Anau and Invercargill in summer months, twice weekly in winter. Connects with the Catlins Coaster from Invercargill to

milford sound

Green, wet and breathtakingly beautiful, Milford Sound is one of the most picturesque sights in the world. Much of the action in the Milford Sound takes place on the Bob & Maxines (BBH) water and the best way to 20 Paton Place, appreciate the beauty on show is on 03 931 3161, a cruise or kayak. Bottlenose dolphins, New Zealand fur seals and Fiordland crested penguins all hang Grumpy’s Backpackers Te Anau-Milford Sound Highway, out there. 03 249 8133, Milford Sound Lodge (BBH) 03 249 8071, Rosies Backpacker Homestay (BBH) 23 Tom Plato Drive, 03 249 8431,

Department of Conservation Beech St, 03 442 7933

Poplar Lodge (BBH) 4 Merioneth St, 03 442 1466,

out for the Mirror Lakes and the disappearing mountain. Another highlight is the 1.2km rough-hewn Homer Tunnel. It’s pitch black, having no lighting plus it’s pretty darn steep – a thrilling experience for those afraid of the dark.

Barnyard Backpackers (BBH) 80 Mt York Rd, Rainbow Downs, 03 249 8006,

Steamers Beach Backpackers (BBH) 77 Manapouri Rd, 03 249 7457,



te anau do Adventure Fiordland 72 Town Centre, 03 249 8500 Fiordland Ecology Holidays 3-10 day cruises, all Southern Fiords. Mammal watching permit, 0800 249 660, High Ride Adventures Quad riding and scenic horse trekking. 03 249 8591, Luxmore Jet Jetboating on the Waiau River, 0800 253 826, Real Journeys Doubtful Sound daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises. Milford Sound daytime, overnight scenic, nature and small boat cruises. 0800 656 501, Milford Track Day Walk Lake cruise and guided walk, 0800 656 501 Rosco’s Milford Sound Sea Kayaks 0800 476 726, roscosmilfordkayaks Skydive Fiordland Dive 44 Caswell Rd, Te Anau, 0800 829254, Tracknet 03 249 7737,

anau to milford The distance between Te Anau and Milford Sound may be 119km but the breathtaking scenery along the way makes the journey extremely enjoyable. Along the road watch

milford do

Real Journeys 0800 656 501, Great Sights On and under the water, 03 442 9445 Kiwi Reel Rifle Guided fishing & hunting. Kayaking on Lakes Te Anau, Manapouri and Milford Sound. Rental kayaks and mountain bikes, 03 249 9071 Milford Sound Underwater Observatory Discover a coral reef beneath Milford Sound, 03 249 9442 Milford Sound Cruise & Observatory Visit 0800 656 501 Milford Wanderer Cruises Day and overnight options with kayaking, etc. Coach connections, 0800 656 501, Tawaki Dive See Fiordland’s unique marine life on a day-trip with two guided dives in Milford Sound. Rental gear available, max four divers. 0800 829254, TSS Earnslaw & Walter Peak Farm tours, barbecue lunches, horse treks and cycling. Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise, 0800 105 105, 

manapouri Manapouri is the proud owner of arguably New Zealand’s most beautiful stretch of water. This is where the boat trip on Doubtful Sound leaves from – most start the trip in Queenstown or Te Anau. From the boat you may see seals and possibly dolphins and penguins. Adventure Charters and Hires 03 249 6626 Real Journeys

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Gore spans the Mataura river and boasts some lovely scenery in the Hokonui Hills and the Country and Western festival each June. Old Fire Station Backpackers (BBH) 19 Hokonui Dr, 03 208 1925, Anglem House 20 Miro Crescent, 03 219 1552,

CHECK IN! Tuatara Lodge 30 - 32 Dee Street, Invercargill. Beds from $24 This is a clean, warm, smoke free hostel with a friendly crew and excellent security.


0800 656 502

manapouri stay Freestone Backpackers (BBH) 270 Hillside Rd, 03 249 6893, Manapouri Lakeview Backpackers (VIP) 68 Cathedral Drive, 03 249 6652, Possum Lodge (BBH) 13 Murrel Ave, 03 249 6623.

doubtful sound If you’re not one for crowds, an alternative Fiordland option is Doubtful Sound – the deepest of the fiords, made up of 100km of waterways. Where Milford is all pointy peaks and endless cascading falls, Doubtful is rounded mountains – a serene sanctuary, inhabited by loads of interesting critters. Real Journeys Daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises. 0800 656 502 Fiordland Navigator Pearl Harbour, Manapouri 03 249 6602, Deep Cove Hostel Doubtful Sound, 03 249 7713,

invercargill The southernmost city in New Zealand, Invercargill is a farmingorientated community with a pleasant collection of parks and museums to keep you busy. Invercargill I-site Visitors Centre 108 Gala St, 03 214 6243 Dept of Conservation Office Don St, 03 214 4589

Catlins Coaster Invercargill to Dunedin via the Catlins with many stops to the main natural attractions and wildlife encounters. Farmstay options are available, 0800 304333, Stewart Island Flights Flights to Stewart Island, 03 218 9129,

invercarg stay Kackling Kea Backpackers (BBH) 225 Tweed St, 03 214 7950 Southern Comfort (BBH) 30 Thompson St, 03 218 3838 Tuatara Lodge (VIP) 30 Dee St, 03 214 0956,

southern scenic The beautiful road west of Invercargill towards Fiordland is known as the Southern Scenic Route. The Dubliner (BBH) 105 Tiverton St, Palmerston, 03 465 1896, Dustez Bak Paka’s (BBH) 15 Colac Bay Rd, Riverton, 03 234-8399 The Globe Backpackers (VIP) 144 Palmerston St, Riverton, 03 234 8527, Harbison Backpackers (BBH) 5 Harbison St, Otautau, 03 225 8715, Shooters Backpackers 73 Main St, Tuatapere, 03 226 6250


the catlins The beautiful Catlins is a sprawling mass of bush, forest and rivers, stretching all the way from Waipapa Point in Southland to Nugget Point in Otago. The best bit about the Catlins is the abundance of wildlife. Catlins Community Info Centre 3 Main Rd, Owaka, South Otago, 03 415 8371, Elm Lodge Wildlife Tours Two-day camping trips, 0800 356 563,

catlins stay Blowhole Backpackers (BBH) 24 Main Rd, Owaka, 03 415 5635, Curio Bay Backpacker Accommodation (BBH) 501 Curio Bay Rd, 03 246 8797. The Falls Backpackers (BBH) Purakaunui Falls Rd, Owaka, 03 415 8724, Fernlea Backpackers (VIP) Moana St, Kaka Point, 03 412 8834 The Split Level (BBH) 9 Waikawa Rd, Owaka, 03 415 8304, Surat Bay Lodge (BBH) Surat Bay Rd, New Haven, 03 415 8099, Penguin Paradise Holiday Lodge (BBH) 612 Waikawa-Niagara Rd, Waikawa Village South Catlins, 03 2468 552, Thomas Catlins Lodge & Holiday Park, 03 415 8333, Wright’s Mill Lodge (BBH) 865 Tahakopa Valley Rd, 03 204 8424

dunedin Dunedin is Celtic for “Edinburgh” and many Scottish principles endure here. One thing the locals do much better than their Scots ancestors is play rugby, so if there’s a game on at Carisbrook (the “House of Pain”) while you’re in town, beg, borrow

Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff about where to go for parties, events and the beautiful parts of New Zealand.  355 George St, 03 479 2949

or steal to get yourself there. Dunedin Visitor Centre 48 The Octagon, 03 474 3300 Dept of Conservation Office 77 Stuart St, 03 477 0677

Dunedin Public Art Gallery 30 The Octagon, 03 474 3240,

Penguin Patch 9 the Octagon, 03 471 8571, Email:

Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony View blue penguins just metres away every evening at dusk. Waterfront Rd, 1-1/2 hrs north of Dunedin, 03 433 1195,

dunedin stay The Asylum Lodge (BBH) 36 Russell Rd, Seacliff, 03 465 8123

Parachute Experience Skydiving from a great height 03 489 4113,

Bus Stop backpackers (BBH) 252 Harrington Point Rd, Portobello, 03 478 0330,

Sinclair Wetlands and Educational Centre Freedom or conducted walks over 5km of walkways. Backpacker and camping facilities. Rapid no 854 Clarendon/Berwick Rd (signposted on SH1 30km south of Dunedin), 03 486 2654

Chalet Backpackers (BBH) 296 High St, 03 479 2075 Dunedin Central Backpackers (BBH) 243 Moray Pl, 03 477 9985,

Speights Brewery Heritage Tours 03 477 7697,

The Jolly Poacher (BBH) 74 Elm Row, 03 477 3384

Royal Albatross Centre 03 478 0499,

Hogwartz (BBH) 277 Rattray St, 03 474 1487,

otago peninsula

The Jolly Poacher (BBH) 54 Arthur St, 03 477 3384, Kiwis Nest (BBH)597 George St, 03 471 9540.

Billy Browns (BBH) 423 Aramoana Rd, Port Chalmers, 03 472 8323,

Leviathan Heritage Hotel 27 Queens Gardens, 0800 773 773, Manor House (BBH) 28 Manor Place, 03 477 0484,

McFarmers Backpackers (BBH) 774 Portobello Rd, Portobello, 02 5206 0640, mcfarmersbackpackers

On Top Backpackers (BBH) 12 Filleul St, cnr Moray Pl, 03 477 6121.

otago do

Pennys Backpackers (BBH) 6 Stafford St, 03 477 6027,

Historic Fort Taiaroa An underground complex built in the 1880s, this fortified stronghold has been inhabited since earliest Maori settlement of the area. Tours available at the Visitor Centre. Fletcher House, Broad Bay, 03 478 0180

Queens Garden Backpackers (VIP) 42 Queens Garden, 03 479 2175, Ramsay Lodge (BBH) 60 Stafford St, 03 477 6313,

Larnach Castle Australasia’s only castle. The architecture is amazing and the intricate details (including a foyer ceiling that took nearly seven years to build) are breathtaking.

YHA Dunedin, Stafford Gables 71 Stafford St, 03 474 1919,

dunedin do Baldwin Street In the Guinness Book of Records as the steepest street in the world. Cadbury World 280 Cumberland St, 0800 223 2879,

The Otago Peninsula is a beautiful stretch of rugged coast, home to a fascinating collection of rare and native birds such as the albatross and yellow-eyed penguin.

NZ Marine Studies Centre and Aquarium Run by the University of Otago, the Portobello Aquarium and Marine Biology Centre (near Quarantine Point) is a refuge for a diverse collection of fish and reptile life. 03 479 5826

Cosmic Corner Funk Store

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Horizon Beach Resort +679 672 2832, Nadi Bay Resort Hotel +679 672 3599, Nadi Down Town Backpackers Inn +679 670 0600, Nadi Hotel +679 670 0000,

Coconut Bay Resort +679 666 6644 Korovou Eco Tour Resort +679 666 6644 Kuata Resort +679 666 6644 Long Beach Backpackers Resort +679 666 6644 Manta Ray Island +679 672 6351 Nabua Lodge +679 666 9173 Oarsmans Bay Lodge +679 672 2921

Nomads Skylodge Hotel +679 672 2200

Octopus Resort +679 666 6337

Saweni Beach Apartment Hotel +679 666 1777,

Sunrise Lagoon Resort +679 666 6644

Smugglers Cove Beach Resort +679 672 6578, smugglers

Wayalailai Island Resort +679 672 1377

Travellers Beach Resort +679 672 3322,

White Sandy Beach Dive Resort +679 666 4066

yasawa islands Awesome Adventures Fiji +679 675 0499,

mamanuca isl Beachcomber Island Resort +679 666 1500,

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BOOK NOW! Bounty Island Resort +679 666 6999, Rau Kini’s Hostel +679 672 1959, The Funky Fish Beach Resort +679 628 2333, The Resort Walu Beach +679 665 1777,

coral coast

Tsulu Luxury Backpackers & Apartments +679 345 0065, Vakaviti Motel & Dorm +679 650 0526, Vilisite Place +679 650 1030

suva Colonial Lodge +679 92 75248,

Beachouse +679 653 0500,

Lami Lodge Backpackers +679 336 2240,

Mango Bay Resort +679 653 00690,

Leleuvia Island Resort +679 331 9567, eleen@leleuvia. com

Pacific Safaris Club +679 345 0498, Rendezvous Dive Resort +679 628 4427, Robinson Crusoe +679 629 1999, Seashell Cove Resort +679 670 6100, Tabukula Beach Bungalows +679 650 0097, The Uprising Beach Resort +679 345 2200,

Raintree Lodge +679 332 0562, Royal Hotel +679 344 0024 South Seas Private Hotel +679 331 2296, Tailevu Hotel +679 343 0028

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Morrison’s Beach Cottagess +679 669 4516, Safari Lodge Fijis +679 669 3333 Volivoli Beach Resort +679 669 4511,

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taveuni Albert’s Sunrise +679 333 7555 Matava Resort +679 330 5222, Reece’s Place +679 362 6319 Waisalima Beach Resort +679 738 9236,


Located on the west side of the main island, Nadi (pronounced “Nandi) is the third largest metropolitan area of Fiji. Nadi has a higher concentration of hotels than any other part of Fiji and offers accessibility to Fiji’s popular island resorts. Nadi’s popular tourist attractions include Garden of Sleeping Giant – the largest orchid collection in Fiji, and the Hot Mud Pools. It is also home to Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami, the largest Hindu temple in the southern hemisphere. The Nadi markets, located one block from the Main Street, offer a wide variety of fruit, vegetables, flowers and seafood. Approximately thirty of the markets stalls house only Kava, which they encourage you to sample.


Photo: Tourism Fiji


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sydney stay Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD. 02 9267 7718,

The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228,

03 9427 9826,


Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697,

Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9267 7718,

darwin stay Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644,

Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100, f

Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD. 02 9281 2222,

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St. 08 8981 5385,

Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505,

The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane. 1800 249 207,

Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365,

City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333,

Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500,

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686,

Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212,

Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250,

Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda. 1800 008 718,

Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437,

The Furnished Property Group 02 8669 3678, Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. 02 9218 9000 Sydney Harbour YHA 110 Cumberland Street. The Rocks. 02 9261 1111, Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. 1800 013 186 Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross. 02 8354 0488, Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213 Kangaroo Bak Pak 665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills. 02 9261 1111 Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach. 02 9918 9709, Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street. Tamarama. 02 9365 2088, Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi. 02 9130 5063,

Byron Beach resort 25 Childe Street, Belongli Beach. Beds from $19 The old Belongil Beach House has a new look and new management. Cheap, clean, comfortable and seconds from the beach. All you need.

Byron Bay Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411

1800 446 646,

cairns stay

Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353,

Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. 1800 447 762,

Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628,

Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611,

Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. 03 6231 2660,

Dreamtime Travellers Rest 189 Bunda St. 1800 058 440,

The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108,

Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000,

Gilligans Backpackers and Hotel Resort 57-89 Grafton St. 1800 556 995,

Urban Central 334 City Rd, Southbank. 1800 631 288,

Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801,

Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433,

JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642,

Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452,

NJOY Travellers Resort 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055,

Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371

brisbane stay Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711, Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace. 07 3367 1157,

Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572,

Nomads Cairns 341 Lake St. 1800 737 736,

Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511,

Brisbane City YHA 392 Upper Roma St 07 3236 1947,

Nomads Esplanade 93 The Esplanade. 1800 175 716,

Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee. 02 9315 7888,

Chill Backpackers 328 Upper Roma St. 1800 851 875,

Northern Greenhouse 117 Grafton St. 1800 000 541,

Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. 02 9692 8418,

Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, Fortitude Valley. 1800 682 865,

melbourne stay

Boardrider Backpacker Rear 63, The Corso, Manly. 02 9977 3411 The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly. 1800 657 122,

hobart stay

Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. 03 9621 2523,

Nomads Beach House 2 39 Sheridan St. 1800 229 228,

Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee. 04 0817 6634,

Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302,

Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589,

Brisbane City Apartments 1800 110 443,

Lochner’s Guesthouse 8 Gowrae Ave. Bondi. 02 9387 2162,

Hotel Bakpak Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 1800 645 200,

The Deck Budget Accommodation 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm. 04 3377 7061 Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George and Herschel Sts.

All Nations Backpackers Hotel & Bar 2 Spencer St. 1800 222 238, Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda. 1800 242 273, Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond.

Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St. 1800 811 507, Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192,

Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977, Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400,

perth stay Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720,

adelaide stay

Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge. 08 9227 6000, Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553,

Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. 08 8414 3010,

Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080,

Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753,

Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111, One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge. 1800 188 100,

Annie’s Place 239 Franklin St. 1800 818 011, Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295,

Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. 08 9287 3333, The Old Swan Barracks 6 Francis St. 08 9428 0000, Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge. 08 9228 3755,

Adelaide Oval Home to the Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25,

Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529,

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who to blame

and their favourite kiwi film Editor

Alex Harmon [The Piano]

Staff writer Hugh Radojev [King Kong)


james besanvalle [Avatar)

aussie Union Rugby rules football quiz a) Black Caps b) New Zealand Maori c) All Blacks d) All Whites

Design & production

Lisa Ferron [Goodbye Pork Pie]

2. How many players are there in a full Q match squad? a) 13 c) 10

Business development

Tom Wheeler [Once Were Warriors]


account manager

Justin Steinlauf

(Drive Thru)

b) 15 d) 22

3. How many points for a drop goal? a) Five b) Three c) Two d) One

Q 4. Which New Zealand team won the Super 15 competition in 2012? a) Chiefs b) Hurricanes c) Blues d) Crusaders

marketing + events executive

georgina pengelly (Whale Rider)

How many World Cup titles has New Q 6.Zealand won in the cup’s history?

What is the New Zealand Q 1.International side called?

a) Three b) Five c) One d) None What is the name of the Cup Q 7.contested only between NZ and Oz? a) Tri-Nations c) Cook Cup

b) Bledisloe Cup d) Community Shield

What year did a New Zealand side Q its first Test? a) 1870 b) 1883 c) 1990 d) 1903

Q 9. Who is NZ’s leading point scorer? a) Grant Fox b) Jonah Lomu c) Andrew Mehrtens d) Dan Carter

Q 5. Who is the current NZ captain? a) Richie McCaw b) Daniel Carter c) Piri Weepu d) Brad Thorne

Financial controller

Trish Bailey

sudoku puzzle

answers: 1. c 2. d 3. b 4. a 5. a 6. a 7.b 8. d 9. d

(Eagle Vs Shark)



what we’re doing in april checking out the balloon festival in hamilton. we gonna totally get high on those bad boys!




6 3



4 9


“Part-time Model”


9 3

re-watching all of our favourite kiwi films. after reading that guide, how could we not want to? wonder if anyone reads this or cares. let us know, email the editor!















4 4

A woman who’s attractive, but not that attractive. From the Flight of the Conchords song. “You’re so beautiful, you could be a part time model, but you’d probably have to keep your normal job.” An insult.

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TNT Magazine NZ 95  

Live, work, and play in New Zealand