July-August 2012 Issue 90 tntdownunder.com
A1 F BUS TOURTO THE SOU H ISLAND
COUNTING YOUR FLAGS Backpackers and bed-hopping
THERE AND BACK AGAIN Visit the locations used in The Hobbit
INTO THE UNDERWORLD Th The he a ancient ncient ccaves aves s of Waitomo await
F F O G N I D N U SO
ational Park N d n la d r io s of F eat outdoor r g e th e r lo Ex p + WHAT’S ON FIJI ADVENTURES WORK CHECK OUT WELLINGTON
The original Kiwi Experience, since 1989 100% awesome Kiwi Driver Guides Stacks of inclusions and exclusive discounts Get immersed in nature, adventure and kiwi culture
Phone 09 336 4286 or www.kiwiexperience.com
Hot Water Beach, New Zealand
TOM STURROCK EDITOR email@example.com
EDITOR’S LETTER New Zealand enjoyed a spectacular blast of publicity when The Lord Of The Rings came out nearly a decade ago – just ask Murray from Flight Of The Concords. And now, it’s all set to kick off again, with The Hobbit slated for release later this year. So flick to p6, where we’ve revisited Middle Earth and picked out the various destinations that you can visit before the hordes of ring geeks return.
THIS WEEK NZ DIARY
LISTINGS NORTH ISLAND
LISTINGS SOUTH ISLAND
LISTINGS TRAVELLING ON
Hobbit fever has taken over the country. Our ringleader goes behind the scenes
The author of a book about global shagging explains the art of ‘flagging’
The nightlife and harbour life in one of the world’s coolest capitals – Wellington
SOUNDS OF SILENCE
Enjoy the journey through the Fiordland National Park to Milford Sound
Explore the murky caverns and dark depths of the Waitomo caves
Get spiritualised at church – and on Kava – in one of Fiji’s remote villages
CREAM OF THE CROP
Looking for seasonal work? We speak to the experts about sewing those wild oats
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EDITORIAL Editor Tom Sturrock Deputy Editor Alex Harmon Editorial assistant Leigh Livingstone Contributors Andrew Westbrook | Alex Scrivenger DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Account manager Justin Steinlauf Sales executive Caroline Ward MARKETING & EVENTS Business development manager Tom Wheeler Marketing assistant Leroy Meurs ACCOUNTS Financial controller Trish Bailey
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Rugby fans are in luck during August because they’ll catch one of rugby’s most infamous rivalries when the Aussies take on the Kiwis. The Aussies entered the new year at No 2 in the IRB World rankings behind New Zealand and we reckon it’s going to be a tight game. So whether you’re rooting for the All Blacks or the Wallabies you’re guaranteed a killer match full of force. Might be best to keep the “Aussie Aussie Aussie” to a minimum. TBA
August 25 Eden Park
THE FOOD SHOW
MEN IN TUTUS
Make the most of this four-day celebration in Auckland – the Kiwis know their onions. There are cooking demonstrations as well as the chance to tuck into the good stuff by tasting samples or sitting down for a proper feast.
Pip Brown is back on home soil after slogging it out in London, and now you can catch the T-shirt loving songstress in the city where she honed her craft, Wellington. Playing from her second, more guitar driven album, Anxiety. Don’t miss it.
Direct from New York, Les Ballets Eloelle are bringing their new production of Men In Tutus, a hilarious all-male comedy ballet to Bay of Plenty. Watch over 50 men from 13 different countries prance, twist and pirouette their little hearts out.
August 2-5 ASB Showgrounds foodshow.co.nz
July 13 San Francisco Bathhouse sfbh.co.nz
July 20 Baycourt Centennial Theatre menintutus.org
TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. TNT Magazine does not assume responsibility for unsolicited submissions – material is sent at the owner’s risk. TNT Magazine accepts advertising material and other contributions in good faith, and takes no responsibility for claims, errors or omissions. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers.
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TOUGH GUY AND GAL CHALLENGE Do you consider yourself a bit of a hard nut? Do you like to squelch around in the mud just for the heck of it? You do? Well, get your tight buns to Auckland for this test of the fittest. The off-road tracks, natural and man-made obstacles and mud slides can crack the toughest of the tough. $60
Photos: Getty Images
Until August 18 Woodhill toughguyandgal.co.nz
CADBURY CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL
RUSSELL BIRDMAN FESTIVAL
This one is pretty self-explanatory but just in case you haven’t truly relished the goodness of Cadbury’s chocolate, this event will send you to heaven and back. To tempt your tastebuds there’s a chocolate degustation and chocolate facials, or channel your inner Wily Wonker on a tour of Cadbury World. The headline act is the Jaffa Race where 25,000 giant Jaffas roll down the world’s steepest street.
The annual Birdman competition is a for human flying machines. That’s right, not motorised, catapulted or jet-propelled, they must be man-powered! Watch the Birdmen launch themselves off Russell Wharf in the stunning Bay of Islands. There’s plenty of other activities, including paper plane competitions, spaghetti eating contests, drag races, live music and great food.
July 7-13 Around Baldwin St
July 6-8 Russell Wharf
WINTER BEER FESTIVAL
BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL
What better way to warm up that with a few pints of craft beer. The Society of Beer Advocates (SOBA) are inviting fellow beer lovers in Wellington to get on down to this festival of the holy ale. $40 gets you five half-pints and a plate of food at The Boatshed.
One of the most prestigious, mountain festivals in the world. Hot on the heels of the festival held every fall in Banff, Canada, you can watch the best action and adventure films of the year when the festival hits Queenstown in August.
July 14 The Boatshed, Lambton Harbour soba.org.nz
August 19 Remarkables Primary School eventfinder.co.nz
Back to the Shire New Zealand enjoyed a tourism boom after The Lord Of The Rings and the industry is now hoping for a spectacular encore WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK
There’s a hushed excitement brewing in New Zealand. From the rolling hills to the raging rivers and from the snowcapped peaks to the plunging canyons, there’s talk of forces rising and armies preparing, the power of which have never been seen before. Well, perhaps not quite never before. It all began just over a decade ago, when Peter Jackson’s film adaptations of The Lord Of The Rings trilogy first started taking the world by storm. The fact the movies soon earned themselves legions of fans was hardly surprising in itself. After all, the JRR Tolkien classic is often described as being the secondmost read book in history, topped only by the Bible. However, a major part of the trilogy’s success, and indeed its biggest star, Jackson has always
maintained, was the Kiwi scenery. Tolkein’s Middle Earth is a mythical place matched by mythical landscapes and, apparently, only the land of the Long White Cloud had the natural vistas to do justice to the author’s fertile imagination. When they appeared on the big screen, they delivered an invasion of tourists the likes of which New Zealand had never seen before. Ring-geeks descended on the country to dress up as orcs and elves, while the new awareness of the country’s Hollywood good looks drew millions more. And now, New Zealand is awaiting its next most precious windfall, one expected to surpass even the first assault, when, later this year, The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey sweeps
into cinemas, presumably unleashing another wave of fanboys desperate to visit to the real-life Shire, where Bilbo Baggins lived in peace and quiet. Once again, it will be the natural beauty of New Zealand that stands in for Middle Earth, as the viewer this time follows Bilbo and a dozen dwarfs in a quest to recover a dragon’s gold. With the first installment of the twoparter due for release this Christmas, tour companies are already busily devising ways to give travellers The Hobbit experience. However, you need not part with cash to get your own slice of Tolkien, if you know where to go. So we’ve cut through the secrecy to come up with this list of the 10 best Hobbit locations. Hopefully you manage to steer clear of Gollum’s cave.
MOUNT RUAPEHU LONELY MOUNTAIN
TE KUITI TROLLSHAWS
The sinister-looking volcanic peaks of Tongariro National Park, just south of Taupo, clearly made quite an impact on Jackson. It was the post-apocalyptic terrain here that persuaded him to use the area for Mordor, where the baddies live, in the original films, with Mt Ngauruhoe doubling as the lava-spewing Mt Doom, and he has returned to the area again for The Hobbit’s climactic scenes. This time, it is Ruapehu’s turn to shine, especially the Turoa Ski Field. It is here that Bilbo and his buddies must finally face the dragon Smaug – voiced by Sherlock’s Benedict Cumberbatch – whose treasure they have travelled such a long way to pinch. One nearby hotel has already wasted no time in renaming itself the Hobbit Motor Lodge.
This area, notably the Denize Bluffs and Mangaotaki Valley around Piopio, not far from the blackwater rafting hub of the Waitomo Caves, is the wooded area where the adventurers experience one of their first challenges. Wanting to test Bilbo’s skills as a burglar, the dwarves encourage the hobbit to steal something from a trio of trolls who have set up camp in the rugged forest-clad hills. However, the plan backfires and all 13 of the group soon find themselves captured and dangerously close to the cooking pot. Fortunately, Gandalf shows up just in time and tricks the trolls into arguing among themselves until the sun comes up, which turns them into stone. An obvious ruse if you know anything about trolls.
PELORUS BRIDGE FOREST RIVER
LAKE PUKAKI LAKETOWN
This stretch of water winding through a Marlborough region scenic reserve, halfway between Blenheim and Nelson, was the location used for one of the story’s most memorable scenes, in which Bilbo and the dwarfs escape from the Elvenking’s halls in the Mirkwood by bobbing downstream in a collection of empty barrels. Bilbo, of course, has the benefit of a magic ring that makes him invisible but may also turn him into a nasty little beast if he can’t stop wearing it. The crew actually managed to narrowly avoid disaster when shooting these scenes by wrapping up doubly fast, the day before massive floods swept through the area. In The Hobbit, the area is home to giant spiders, so the crew probably got off easily.
Jackson’s crew once again got to work at Braemar Station, not far from the town of Twizel and just 8km from Mt Cook, an area previously used as the fields of Gondor in The Return Of The King. This time, the spectacular mountain backdrop and brilliant turquoise waters were used to represent the shores of Laketown, a community of men led by the crafty Master (Stephen Fry). The travellers are welcomed into Laketown to prepare for the final push to Lonely Mountain but there’s trouble brewing when Smaug gets wind of the plan to steal his treasure and brings the smackdown. Needless to say, the men of Laketown are unimpressed by having their little houses reduced to a smouldering rubble by a very angry, very rich dragon.
QUEENSTOWN THE MISTY MOUNTAINS Given the jaw-droppingly stunning scenery that surrounds New Zealand’s adrenaline capital, it’s hardly surprising that the Queenstown area is regularly used by Hollywood, and The Hobbit was no exception. This time around, it is mainly The Remarkables and Treble Cone that were used, doubling as the story’s Misty Mountains. A part of the Shotover River was also used. In the earlier trilogy, the fellowship tried to cross these Misty Mountains but were turned back by a wizard-induced avalanche, forcing them to take the darker, more dangerous route through the mines of Moria. In The Hobbit, action-packed scenes involve the adventurers coming face-to-face with goblins, wolves and giant eagles. It’s also where Gollum and a certain ring are to be found. You remember, Gollum – that slippery little freak with the big eyes and the receding hairline. Well, in The Hobbit, we meet him all over again for a winner-takes-all game of riddles in the dark. There are stacks of film location tours available, many of which cover the earlier trilogy, plus the Narnia films and X-Men: Wolverine, which were all shot nearby. Helicopter tours are particularly good fun. heliworks.co.nz
CENTRAL OTAGO DALE HILLS
WANANAKA THE LONE-LANDS
The imposing summit formations of the Rock and Pillar Range and Middlemarch, about an hour from Dunedin, were both used for the Dale Hills, while nearby Hartfield and Strath Taieri also helped provide some extra epic shots. In The Hobbit, Dale is a land of men in the shadow of the Lonely Mountain, led by Bard (Luke Evans), which becomes one of the key fighting grounds in the story’s final Battle of the Five Armies. And, if you’re a real Tolkein nerd, you’ll know that Dale was the site of a decisive battle in the War of the Ring, eventually won by a combined army of men and dwarves. The area is easily explored – by those who are reasonably fit, but less so if you’re a hobbit – thanks to a multitude of walking tracks.
Queenstown’s smaller, but no less adventurous or beautiful, neighbour has once again played a part in Peter Jackson’s plans. This time, the area, along with the nearby Speargrass Flat, fills in as the Lone-lands. This is the region through which the expedition first travels after setting out eastward from The Shire. It was once part of the Kingdom of Rhudaur, but the Lone-lands, in the book, are little more than a savage wilderness, described as a place “where people spoke strangely, and sung songs Bilbo had never heard before”. So it’s exactly like New Zealand. There are plenty of Ringsthemed tours available, while one hotel, the Minaret Lodge even has a special hobbit-themed cabin and menu. The mind boggles at what might appear on a hobbit-themed menu.
MATAMATA HOBBITON AND THE SHIRE
THE WETA CAVE VARIOUS MIDDLE EARTH HANGOUTS
This Waikato farm, located in the lush surroundings of Hamilton, has once again been transformed into the idyllic hometown of Bilbo Baggins (Martin Freeman) where Tolkien’s story begins, undoubtedly amid lots of babbling brooks and twee fiddle music. It is here that we are reacquainted with Gandolf and first introduced to the 12 dwarves. While the original sets were made from polystyrene and then removed when the filming was completed, the crew this time built a permanent model village, with 44 personalised hobbit-holes, which will remain in place as a tourist attraction. Tours of the set cost from $66 – you might just catch a glimpse or a short, barefoot little creature blowing elaborate smoke rings on his front porch.
It seems incredible that a city as remote as Wellington could be seen as one of the planet’s most important when it comes to movie special effects, but that’s indeed the reputation it enjoys. Located in the Miramar suburb (aka Wellywood) are the effects company Weta and the Stone Street Studios, both of which are part-owned by Jackson. This is where nearly all of The Hobbit studio work was done. You can visit the company’s free museum, the Weta Cave, to see all sorts of props and paraphernalia from the films, as well as other Weta productions, which include Avatar, Tintin, King Kong and District 9. There are also many firms running Tolkienthemed tours from the city so there’s sure to be tons of marauding pretend-elves.
Photos: RST/Ian Brodie, Weta
GLENORCHY THE WILDLANDS Peter Jackson has also returned to include Paradise and Arcadia Station, in the Glenorchy area, about an hour’s drive from Queenstown. Paradise has been used for scenes in the outskirts of Bree, while plenty of general Wildlands footage was also shot in the region. Bree, of course, is home to the Prancing Pony, which is the most renowned tavern in all of Middle Earth and, memorably, the location of the hobbits’ first meeting with Aragorn in the first Rings film. So, even though you might not have a chance encounter with a mysterious stranger who turns out to be a king-in-waiting, you can take horseback tours and do jetboating wilderness safaris from Queenstown to the Glenorchy area. Which, all things considered, is just about as good, right? dartriver.co.nz
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Our small group tours visit the best LOTR locations and our great guides bring the locations to life with behind the scenes stories
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HOW TO ENTER
Go to tntdownunder.com and click on the WIN page. See webpage for terms and conditions. Winners will be selected at random.
WIN 2 SOUTHERN ROUND UP PASSES WITH KIWI EXPERIENCE Unlike the passes before it, the Southern Round Up heads up the coastline from Christchurch instead of cutting straight over to the West Coast. This way, you get to see Kaikoura, Blenheim, Picton, Nelson, the Abel Tasman National Park and its famous golden beaches. If you’re short on time, this is a great way to see the highlights of the South Island. If you’re not short on time, you can always add the Milford Explorer or Bottom Bus later to see even more. The Southern Round-Up takes you through the following destinations: KAIKOURA: Take a drive along the spectacular coastline to check out the friendly seals who live there. KAITERITERI: Kayak out to Split Apple Rock and explore the golden bays, or catch a water taxi to Abel Tasman National Park. LAKE MAHINAPUA: Explore the Cape Foulwind seal colony and the rugged Punakaiki Pancake Rocks. FRANZ JOSEF: Hike on the Franz Josef Glacier, rated as one of the top three
activities to do in New Zealand lah blah. WANAKA: Head deep into Mount Aspiring National Park, arriving in the awe-inspiring destination of Wanaka. QUEENSTOWN: New Zealand adrenaline capital is also one of the most picturesque places in the world. Competition closes September 9, 2012. Log on to tntdownunder.com for further details and to enter.
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Flying the flags Hooking up with people from other countries is a staple of youth travel and a new book delves into the world of ‘flagging’ WORDS TOM STURROCK
Casual sex and travel go hand-in-hand – young people bouncing form one corner of the globe to another, unattached and intent on expanding their horizons, can often find themselves sharing a bed with someone they met in a bar or a hostel the night before. For many, this kind of no-strings encounter is a highlight of any jaunt. Next time you fall into bed with a raunchy exotic, though, at least make a mental note of their nationality – that way, you can claim another flag. Yes, another flag – that’s the principle of flagging, the craze which involves ticking and bonking your way through an international checklist of various nationalities. And according, to Evan Smith, co-author of Destination Fornication: The Field Guide For Flaggers, some flags are easier to collect than others. “Your own flag doesn’t count but if you’re an Aussie, for example, then New Zealand, Canada and English are pretty easy,” Smith, known in the flagging community as The Hunger, explains. “And the English also rank top of the most promiscuous list, so there you go. “At the other end, the Vatican flag is basically uncapturable – no one is born there. Let’s say you had sex with the Pope – that would actually end up being the German flag. Then there’s North Korea, which is hard to get to; Saudi Arabia, there’s the religious factor; Bhutan, because of its geographical isolation; Swaziland, there’s a lot of disease.” Proof of The Hunger’s commitment, though, is the fact he has managed to claim one of these rare, sought after flags, although not without igniting some controversy. “I did actually capture the Saudi flag, although it is in dispute,” he says. “I was living in the Middle East and hooked up with a Saudi girl, but she was also British. Does it count? I’ll take it. You have to put yourself in an environment where that’s possible.” The Hunger, 28, hails from Sydney but has spent much of the past decade overseas, including a stint working in hostels in France and later teaching English in the Middle East – hence the Saudi conquest. Flagging, he says, is merely a neat
He unknowingly slept with a prostitute – paid for flags don’t count
name for the between-the-sheets adventures young, globetrotting travellers have been pursuing for years. “Backpackers like to party, travel and hook up – that’s a big part of it,” he says. “Whether you’re into a French guy or a French girl, there’s always an interest in the exotic. And, these days, the world’s more mixed up and more accessible. If you look at life in any hostel or on a Contiki tour, people are hooking up and it’s a way of learning about the world at the same time.” That said, The Hunger’s co-authour and partner-in-crime, a connoisseur of flagging known as Atlas Al, found himself in some hot water in his quest for the Vietnamese flag – it’s a cautionary tale that opens their part-memoirs, partinstructional guide. “He unknowingly slept with a prostitute,” The Hunger explains. “He thought he had picked up legit but then she asked for money. Prostitutes can be really visible in some parts of the world but we don’t want to encourage that – paid for flags don’t count. “Another time, we thought we were going to meet some nice Lebanese girls but we ended up with some of the local mafia. It just shows that you need to know the environment.” This immersion theory forms the bedrock of The Hunger’s guide to successful flagging. If you want to collect the hardto-acquire flags, you have to be willing to go the extra mile. Once you get past the easier flags, he insists, the rest require some hustle and determination. “You need to understand something about the country,” he says. “You’ve got to give yourself a chance – take the
The Saudi flag is notoriously hard to get
so don’t limit the possibilities by sitting around waiting for something to happen.” There are other rules as well, mostly designed to prevent cynical flaggers from inflating their haul without doing the hard work. “Well, it’s one flag per shag – if someone has two passports, you don’t get to claim both,” The Hunger says. “Blowjobs don’t count – you actually have to shag. And it’s not always about how many – if you’re obsessed with the quality will suffer. It’s more about an number, then the q interest in the world and in fine women. Is someone wo with 50 flags better bett than someone with five? No – it’s about the cool story.” sto It is this premise premis – that the adventure itself is the object – that underpins the ‘weighted flag theory’. un “Picking up u a Uruguayan in Uruguay, for worth more,” The Hunger says. “It example, is w balls, for a start, and it means you takes more b outside your comfort-zone. Are you have to go o going to be a tourist or an explorer? You don’t want to take the McDonald’s version of travel trave – stand here, take the same old picture. You don’t have to do what p everyone else does.” And, ultimately, flagging adds to the fun of travel. “Flagging is mostly for guys, I guess, but also for girls,” The Hunger g says. “We just want people to go out s there and have a look, have fun and enjoy the adventure.” Destination Fornication: The Field D G Guide For Flaggers is out now. flaggingheadquarters.com
pulse of these places, think like a local and adapt. You can’t expect to go where tourists go and pick up.” It’s a recurring motif in the flagging manifesto – to succeed, you need to be able think on your feet and roll with the punches. You need to be daring enough to improvise. If you sleepwalk your way through a trip, following the crowd, you’ll come home empty-handed. The Hunger has some plenty of sage advice for would-be flaggers. “I think, if you’re a guy in Sydney, y, hanging out at the Ivy or the Golden Sheaf – he might ght do well in that environment, but might then struggle gle overseas,” The Hunger explains. “For example, he goes to Argentina without bothering to learn Spanish – the point is that you have to recalibrate and adapt. The typical Aussie, for instance, might not ot do too well in a Parisian café – there’s no one style that works everywhere.” Of course, there are some slightly y more cut-and-dry guidelines, some handy hints gleaned from years of observation and sniffing around backpacker bars and hostels. “There are a few unofficial laws,” ” The Hunger says. “Generally, girls prefer to shag the night before they leave, because they want to avoid that walk of shame situation. If there’s a group of people in a hostel, you have to lead – don’t be passive, because nothing will happen. And if you go to a location, there will two or three hree hot girls who have guys hanging around ound them, and you can just waste so much ch time – it’s fine to have a crack but there’s a whole city,
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WINNER HANGING OUT Dimitry Strelets, 29, New Zealand
DIMITRY SAYS: “This shot was taken at the Tongariro Crossing. About 7km into the 19.2km track, we decided to have a bit of a rest and started posing in air while jumping off a little rock.” WE SAY: “This action shot was a clear favourite this month. The backflip looks like it took a lot of effort and it was perfect timing on the photographer’s behalf. We also like the volcano that Dimitry appears to be springing from.”
RUNNER-UP ZOO STORY Kyle Cwynar, 24, USA
KYLE SAYS: “I took this photo of giraffes at Taronga Zoo enjoying some food across from the city.” WE SAY: “Kyle’s picture captures two things beautifully: the grazing giraffes of Taronga Zoo and Sydney’s majestic city skyline. It almost looks like the animals are going to take a bite out of the city.”
HOT TIPS: Mood + colour
TWO NORTHLAND TOURS
Colour can be used to create different feelings and emotions. It can either draw the reader in or turn them off. But remember, hues don’t always have to be of the same family in order to make an appealing image. One way to create interest is to match cooler tones with warmer ones. Contrasting primary colours are a great idea to convey the vibrancy of life: think of a bright blue sky above a pure yellow sandy beach. That doesn’t look out of place, does it? Your aim should be to shoot colours that look good together in a digital image.
Dimitry wins a Total Northland Pass for him and a friend from Magic Travellers Network (magicbus.co.nz), while runnerup Kyle wins a Black Labyrinth rafting voucher from the Legendary Black Water Rafting Co (waitomo.com). Winners are chosen by the TNT team, with the editor’s decision being final. To enter the next Hot Shots competition, send your best travel photos (300 dpi jpegs), along with your name, age, nationality and a description, to firstname.lastname@example.org
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Ash and dash
ON THE ROAD WITH TRAVEL
TALK LIZZIE JOYCE 27, UK
YOU ASKED FOR IT... WE ANSWER YOUR TRAVEL QUESTIONS
heard a lot of hype about Q I’ve Wellington, what’s so good about this
never snowboarded before but Q I’ve really want to give it go. Where in NZ is
city? Nat Danson, USA
good to learn? Vincent Logois, Greece
you like good food, bars and live music? A Do Well, that’s why Wellington has such a great reputation. A couple of years ago The Lonely Planet called it the ‘coolest little capital in the world’ – and they weren’t talking about the wind chill. So yes, there is a little bit of hype about the Kiwi capital. It’s ideally located near the southern tip of the North Island, allowing easy access to the wineries, ski fields and wilderness of the surrounding region, while volcanic Rotorua and art-deco Napier are a few hours’ drive north. Check out the city views from Mt Victoria before perusing the Maori collection at Te Papa, a museum dedicated to New Zealand culture and history. The city is also home to a pumping arts scene, so it’s easy to catch a band and wander into a few galleries. And if you’re after an escape, the South Island is accessible from Wellington Harbour, with boats travelling through the magnificent Marlborough Sounds.
snowfields are a great place to learn, A NZ’s especially if you have plenty of time to spare. Even from Australia, week-long packages including flights to New Zealand are often cheaper than those to local snowfields, and of course the snow in NZ is on another level. A couple of big ski areas can be found on the North Island, and of these Whakapapa & Turoa offer the best runs for beginners. However, for real snow (ie. powder) the South Island is king. The resort towns of Queenstown and Wanaka are your best bet, with plenty of surrounding snowfields along with some choice après-ski nightlife. Coronet Peak has consistent cover thanks to snow making machines and good runs for all levels, while The Remarkables and Cardrona also have plenty of beginners’ runs. Closer to Christchurch, Mt Dobson is a 3km-wide basin that caters mostly for learners, with plenty of easy runs and classes for snowboarders.
CHECKING IN YHA AUCKLAND This award-winning hostel is located in the heart of Auckland, just off Queen street. Apart from just being a great place to stay, it’s also got a travel desk and job centre should you choose to get settled in OVERVIEW
Auckland. Private rooms to eight bed mixed dorms. All comfy and modern, some with views of the Auckland city skyline. BILL PLEASE A bed in a mixed dorm from NZ$24/night. ROOMS
5 Turner St, Auckland yha.co.nz
BEST EXPERIENCE IN NZ? Blackwater rafting in the Waitomo Caves and doing the heli-hike up Franz Josef Glacier were definitely the highlights. But winning my South Island tour in a Paper Rock Scissors tournament in a Queenstown hostel was brilliant too. AND THE WEIRDEST? Squatting behind a rock of ice and having a wee on the top of the beautiful Franz Josef Glacier! ANYTHING YOU WISH YOU BROUGHT? A friend. I had a great time travelling on my own and met some great people, but I wish I had someone to share all those experiences. CRAZIEST EXPERIENCE? Hurtling down a hill in a rubber ball filled with water was pretty bizarre (Zorbing in Rotorua). But chucking myself out of a plane at 15,000ft was something I never thought I’d do due to a fear of heights and tiny planes. PLACE YOU WANT TO GO? The Bay of Islands, but have run out of time and have to head straight to Auckland to catch my flight home.
CONSERVATION VOLUNTEERS AUSTRALIA EXPERIENCE
Each month our fave interview WINS a four-day Conservation Volunteers Australia experience. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.
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A capital suggestion What the Kiwi capital lacks in size, it more than makes up for with its natural charm and surprisingly vibrant nightlife WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK
Beef, boots and a duke. Those are probably the first three things that spring to mind when you mention Wellington. But there’s a fourth that you should add to that list – the Wellington that is both the much-underrated Kiwi capital and also New Zealand’s most liveable city. Quirky and unique, Welly is immediately likeable but also blessed with the unusual ability to keep growing on you. It effortlessly exudes a distinctive sense of cool that is reminiscent of Melbourne, while being set against a stunning natural harbour that would give Sydney a run for its money. Kind of like a small San Francisco for the southern hemisphere, Wellington has both the looks and the brains. Plus, thanks to living somewhat in the shadow of its much bigger, northern nemesis, Auckland, the seat of the Kiwi government lacks any of the big city pretences that so often beset capital cities. Indeed, being a city of less than 400,000 people, less than a third as many as Auckland, many people outside New Zealand aren’t even aware that Wellington is the capital. And, in fact, that hasn’t always been the case. Although legend has it that Maori forefather Kupe was the first to discover the area back in the 10th century, it was not until 1840 that the first European settlers arrived and, at that stage, Auckland was the colony’s capital. But fearing the country’s southern goldfields might fancy their chances at going it alone, the capital was moved to the opposite end of North Island in 1865, where it has remained ever since.
Like San Francisco, Wellington has both beauty and brains
of the Long White Cloud. An easy place to lose at least a day, it is crammed with fascinating and creatively displayed artefacts, with great insights into New Zealand’s geological history, Maori culture and all else Kiwi up to the present day. There’s even a colossal squid! Back out on the street, it’s hard not to pick up on what a distinctive feel Wellington has. It’s one of the few cities in the world where, without the aid of any Big Ben-type landmarks, you could be plonked down in the middle of
Our place Despite being relatively small, Wellington’s cultural and culinary riches betray its true status. Most newcomers will start their discovery with a walk along Wellington’s compact waterfront area, between the railway station and Oriental Bay. It is here, nestled among the wharfs and lively restaurants that you will find the superb – and free – Te Papa museum. Meaning ‘Our Place’, the Te Papa is New Zealand’s national museum and is without rival in the Land
Grab a coffee on the waterfront
Wellington’s harbour rivals Sydney’s it, have your blindfold removed and pretty quickly guess where you are. Steel and glass rise from the Tasman Strait waters, rowers scull through shimmering, pristine waterways while stingrays swim underneath and a simply ridiculous number of theatres, restaurants, bars and cafés abound on every side. Serious politicians live side-by-side with bohemians – indeed, every third person looks like they’re the bass player out of some-yet-to-be-discovered band, only less glum. It’s a place where everybody seems to enjoy living. Don’t take my word for it however. The 2011 Lonely Planet Best of Travel book recently named it the world’s fourth-best city. As well as its picturesque setting amid the sparkling water and plunging valleys, the roads are lined with a far higher than average number of intriguing and original sculptures and street art. Even the unusual wooden government buildings, centred around the modernist Beehive, are hard not to stop and gawp at. Distinctly ugly, but undeniably unique, the Beehive is most definitely from the love-it-or-hate-it school of architecture. However, it is when Wellingtonians are off duty that the world’s most southerly and remote national capital comes into its own.
is in discovering the tucked-away bars and bistros. The biggest concentration of social spots can be found along Cuba Street – check out the boho heaven that is Left Bank and the more raucous Courtenay Place. Wellington is certainly an infectious place and, like the famous Waterloo-conquering Duke from whom it takes its name, it is hard not to bask in its glory. Urbane and cultured, with an added slice of bohemia and yet an almost small-town feel, Wellington is also perfectly placed. Just a few hours drive to the north and you hit New Zealand’s biggest urban centre, Auckland, while a quick ferry ride in the opposite direction and you have all the beauty and excitement of South Island laid out before you. As the more pun-happy locals like to say, all’s well that ends Wellington.
It’s well good Perhaps the single most amazing fact about this city is that Wellington has more bars, cafés and restaurants per capita than New York. Amazing, that is, until you spend some time walking the city’s streets. Whatever the reason, whether it’s the city’s political and cultural superiority, or the average income tracking easily above the Kiwi median, you won’t struggle to find something up your street, whatever your taste or budget. Wellington’s finest eateries are consistently rewarded with gongs for being New Zealand’s best, yet the real joy
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Milford Sound SOUTHLAND
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The sound of awesome The breathtaking journey through the Fiordland National Park to Milford Sound is one of New Zealand’s absolute must-dos WORDS ALEX SCRIVENGER
Cautiously, I put my ear to the porthole. There it is again: the huffing, puffing sounds of heavy breathing and the softest slap of water, just a couple of metres away in the inky blackness. I pad softly up the stairs into the cosy saloon where my travel buddies are polishing off a bottle of merlot while playing a game of Trivial Pursuit. “Seals!” I whisper excitedly, jabbing my finger at the darkness outside. Within 10 seconds, we’re standing on deck, huddled in our coats and peering vainly into the utter blackness. The seals are attracted to our anchor lights. Or rather, Milford Sound’s fish are attracted to our anchor lights and the seals are attracted to the fish. As our eyes adjust, we can just make out two or three fur seals – softly chomping on the odd unfortunate fish. Slightly visible even in the darkness, mile-high walls of granite rear vertically out of the black, glassy waters of the Sound, split by dozens of plunging waterfalls. We’d seen it all from the deck as the sun set earlier and had even launched the on-board kayaks from the rear of the ship for a twilight paddle in the gathering dusk. I had never seen a landscape like it and today had been a big day for landscapes.
The road from Te Anau to Milford Sound is ridiculous
waterways and large, rounded peaks. As Tu worked his way up the coast, his craftsmanship improved until he created his masterpiece, Piopiotahi (Milford Sound), with jagged, sharp mountaintops as far as the eye can see. These perfect, pointy peaks bear a precarious load of blueish snow and ice, ready to come crashing down at the slightest provocation. Endless mossy forests the size of Israel stretch silently across the lower slopes, perhaps harbouring mysterious species long thought extinct. None of these areas
Chopping it up The road from Te Anau to Milford Sound is just ridiculous. Sure, I’ve seen mountains before, and waterfalls, and lakes and mossy forests. But nothing on this scale. The Milford Road winds along hairpin bends between sheer rock-faces. Waterfalls plunge toward it from heights three-times higher than the Niagara Falls, sending clouds of spray cantering across the landscape. It’s all located in Fiordland National Park, a beautiful World Heritage-listed area in the south-west of New Zealand’s South Island. Maori legend has it that the godly figure of Tu-te-raki-whanoa was given the task of creating the Fiordland coast with his mighty axe, Te Hamo. At first, he was still learning his chopping skills so the fiords to the south, including Doubtful Sound, were created with wide
Dropping anchor for the night
The adventurous way to travel
were explored until the late 1800s and much of it still hasn’t been fully charted. The Homer Tunnel is a landmark – more than a kilometre long, its walls are of rough-hewn rock, complete with dripping water and glow-worms. It’s pretty steep, dark and quite snug, and when you finally emerge into the light, the whole landscape has totally changed. Gone are the forests; it’s all bare rock, cliffs and snow. There’s no way you could get beyond this solid rock ridge without the tunnel. It must have changed everything for the locals when it was finished in the 1950s. It meant they had a through-road for the first time, the only alternative to the gruelling four-day Milford Track, which is now New Zealand’s most popular walk and booked solid, months in advance.
You will get wet We arrive at the miniscule settlement of Milford and look upon the grand finale – the Sound itself – the perfect cone of Mitre Peak reflected in its mirror-like waters. How could that perfectly triangular mountain be so clearly reflected in the deep, dark glassy water at its base? Who painted in that airbrushed wisp of cloud? The timing of the salmon-pink shaft of sunset hitting that thick, untouched snowcap is suspiciously spot-on. And whoever heard of a 150-metre waterfall freefalling straight off the edge of a cliff and into the seawater? None of it seems real. Now, a few hours later, we find ourselves snugly anchored in a lonely bay, an extraordinary day rounded off by an impromptu visit from the friendly seals. Just before daybreak, I wake to see the landscape sliding past my porthole and rush out onto the rain-soaked deck just in time to see the bow approaching the most enormous waterfall – the 150m Stirling Falls, swollen from a night of rain. It shoots off the edge of the cliff in two massive jets, then tumbles, endlessly in freefall, taking several seconds
to hit the water, sending a dense cloud of cold spray all over the boat and into our faces. We are only a few metres from the base of the waterfall – whereas, after a rainy period, boats can’t get within 50 metres of it, such is the fury of the impact zone. This is followed by a comparatively leisurely cruise into the swells of the Tasman Sea, waves breaking over the bow and the rainclouds parting to admit a little blue sky into our morning. On the way back we see more seals; young ones cavorting on the rocks and frolicking in the water after fish. I would happily stay on that boat for a week. We’ve seen both sides of Milford – the setting of a glorious sunny day, and the majesty of the thousand waterfalls that spring into existence only during the rain. The best of both worlds amid the world’s very best.
Rugged landscape surrounds the Sound
It’s a hard place to top Big brother, little brother We wouldn’t for a moment try and deter you from visiting Milford Sound, but lean in, we’ll whisper a little secret. Milford has a bigger, quieter, very attractive and much more isolated brother, Doubtful Sound. Although it lacks the dramatic high peaks of Milford, Doubtful boasts rolling bushland, heaps of wildlife and is so peaceful that locals call it “the sound of silence”. Like Milford, Doubtful is home to pods of dusky and bottlenose dolphins, penguins, New Zealand fur seals, but, crucially, not boat-loads of other tourists. There’s what must be the country’s most isolated hostel – it doesn’t even have a telephone. Other than relaxing in blissful isolation, there’s quite a bit to do. You can go fishing, bushwalking or set out on the water in a dingy. It’s three-times longer and has 10-times the surface area of Milford but with half the amount of visitors. One of the reasons might be that it requires quite a bit of effort to get to. It’s inaccessible by road, so to get there you’ll need to take a boat across Lake Manapouri, then a bus-ride over Wilmot Pass, from where you take a three-hour boat cruise out into the awe-inspiring Sound. Doubtful Sound was given its name by Captain Cook, who, when out discovering, refused to sail into the Sound as it was doubtful he would be able to sail back out again. Undeniably, it has a more pleasant ring than ‘I’m The Boss And I’m Not F*cking Sailing In There Sound’. Doubtful is more of a slow burner in the ‘wow’ stakes in that, as you pull away from Deep Basin, its beauty is still to be revealed. Its delights some unfold and become visible to the observer piece-by-piece as the boat turns another corner to showcase another imposing rock formation poking out of the water. The green ranges are pockmarked with grey scars, evidence of ‘tree-valanches’ caused either by heavy rain or all too frequent earthquakes.
y sure you’ll agree with us and the Lonel Want to REALLY get amongst it!? We’re discover Milford Sound, truly to way best the far by is ing Planet that sea kayak Fiordland, New Zealand. of as waterfalls tumble from hundreds Get set to feel the spray kiss your face cliffs steep the to ng clingi rest rainfo nt metres above you; marvel at the ancie VYZLHSZWLUN\PUZHUKKVSWOPUZHZ`V\ VM[OLÄVYKHSVUNZPKL`V\"HUKSVVRV\[M as ering water which looks the same today navigate your kayak through shimm ago. years and thous a it did LWHKKSLYVYHUL_WLYPLUJLKRH`HRLY 9LNHYKSLZZVM^OL[OLY`V\»YLHÄYZ[[PT LKP[PVUZH[9VZJV»Z4PSMVYK2H`HRZHUK KL_W N\PKL YPV\Z V\Y]H JVTLQVPUVULVM HSPML[PTL \YLVM K]LU[ LJVH NL[ZL[[VL_WLYPLUJL[OL
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Adventures underground The Waitomo caves on New Zealand’s west coast are a great place to stop for an all-action afternoon exploring the murky depths WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK
Stepping into the chasm, only a wispy cloud of mist is visible below me. I’m swinging a metre or so away from the metal platform before my rope pulls tight and I secretly let out a little sigh of relief. Looking down, the darkness swallows my lifeline not far into the 100-metre drop while, to my side, the light shines brilliantly off the cobwebs that cover the steep cavern wall. We spin and swivel nervously while the final few safety checks are carried out and then begin our descent. In a line of four, we each relax our grips on the rope behind our backs and start to steadily drop into the thin air. Between the penetrating shards of sunlight and the misty shrouds, the descent takes on a mysterious feel. It’s genuinely unnerving not being able to see what lies beneath and it really feels like we’re entering another world. Before long I’m halfway into the giant cavern, which is just one of the endless caves that dot this part of the North Island like a slab of Swiss cheese. The one thing for sure is that Waitomo, just inland from the island’s western coast, is very true to its name. Derived from the Maori words ‘wai’ for water and ‘tomo’ for sinkhole, the area boasts stacks of caves, many of which are thought to be over two million years old. Most backpackers who fly through this sleepy village jump out briefly to go on a tubing trip. But having a bit of time on my hands, I thought I’d go for two of the more extreme options available. Top of my list was an attack on the Haggas Honking Holes. Strangely enough, their appeal was not based on sounding like the domain of some evil flatulent beast, but instead because the experience is billed as likely to make me feel like “Indiana Jones in a washing machine”. Sold. I’ll go dust off my whip. However, before exorcising my claustrophobic demons in the subterranean tunnels, I thought I’d give the opposite extreme a try first, which is how I found myself abseiling 100m down into a land straight out of a sci-fi film.
The whole cave throbs with the eerie green glow of the worms
the Lost World, and I’m starting to imagine velociraptors snapping at my ankles, that I hear a panicked squeal to my side. My girlfriend, it appears, has caught her hair in the rope mechanism. After several aborted attempts for her to climb up the rope a bit to free her head, and for me to convincingly pull off an unamused face, our guide is finally left with little choice. Out comes the penknife and my best sympathetic frown. Heads free, albeit with one of us sporting an uneven,
The Lost World It’s as we’re just entering the layer of mist that protects
Happy to be here, clearly
It’s a long way down improvised haircut, we carry on down, with the base of the cavern eventually coming into view. We finally feel solid ground again and disconnect ourselves from the ropes to get a better look at our surroundings. We’ve just abseiled from a height more than twice that of any other cave in Waitomo and the scene is spectacular. As the morning sun burns through the floating mists, a scorching red beam of light bringing one section of the cave to life, like a tractor beam from an alien ship. We then waste no time in donning our headlamps and start making our way into the ground. It’s not long before we’re given a glimpse of glow worms. Now, having been underwhelmed by glow worms in the past, this was a section of the tour I’d not been overly excited about. But apparently, I hadn’t seen glow worms properly before. Not even close. We turn off our lamps and sit patiently in the dark, the blackness so complete that I can’t see my hand in front of my face. But, ever so gradually, the worms come into view. Not one or two, or even a few hundred. There must be thousands, tens of thousands, millions – it’s incredible, the whole cave ceiling throbs with the eerie green glow of the worms. Of course, the story behind glow worms is not quite so cute, amazing creatures though they are. For starters, in reality, they’re larvae, or maggots. But in a stroke of animal world marketing genius, some clever dude worked out that worms sound positively cuddly in comparison to maggots – and so the glow worm was born. Even better, we’re soon informed that the bright light for which they are so famous in fact comes from their arses. Indeed, glow worms can’t actually excrete anything, and instead cunningly burn off all their shit using pure light. Nice. That light then attracts all kinds of creatures,
TUBULAR TRAVELS NICE SPOT FOR A CRUISE More than a little excited about my blackwater rafting adventure, I get tooled up in my wetsuit and head down to the cave entrance.
Our adventure begins with a daunting 27m abseil down into the depths. We then make our way through the caves to a breathtakingly massive cathedral-style cavern where we pick out our rubber rings, testing its relevant size by bending over with derrière in place. Waggling my arse at a bunch of strangers and asking if my ring is the right size is not something I do on
a regular basis, but with the obligatory humiliation out of the way I begin a completely unique tubing voyage in the freezing cold water. Lazily drifting along the blackwater rivers under a ceiling of glow worms was effortlessly relaxing. With the odd adrenaline stop to limbo under six-inch high gaps, jump off mini waterfalls and barrel down natural rapids, I found myself switching off my headlight, looking up and coasting all the way to the final exit climb, via the guiding lights of the glow maggots of course. Awesome.
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There’s light at the end of the tunnel including their mates, which then get caught in a cobweb, sucked up and eaten. In other words, they’re basically shitburning cannibalistic maggots. Luckily for us, however, they look very cool. And so we spend a few peaceful minutes staring lovingly at the shit-burning cannibalistic maggots, before clambering our way back to the surface.
Into the deep Next is the action-packed Haggas Honking Holes, which couldn’t be more different to the serene grandeur of the Lost World. Generally speaking of course, it’s hard to imagine a place closer to an adrenaline junkie’s heaven than New Zealand. But it’s also fair to say that the life of a thrillseeker can quickly transform into an endless contest of how high and how many times. Which is a big reason why caving is so different and exciting, representing a whole new world – or even, if you like, a hole new world (boom boom tsh). Gone are the gaping gorges, grinning jumpmasters and ice-curdling screams; and in are the tiny, claustrophobic tunnels, icy waterfalls and absolute, complete darkness. One thing’s for sure, you might want to avoid watching The Descent just before getting to Waitomo. Heading into the holes, we immediately come across a 20m waterfall that plunges down into the pitch black. The waterfall, it becomes clear, is the way we’re going. Roped up, I abseil down through the rushing water until I hit the bottom with a thud. Having been told to just follow the tunnel out, I scramble around nervously on my own. I finally spot my route and crawl through on my stomach, scrambling down the tight rocky tunnel while suppressing memories of horror films I thought were long forgotten. But after some impressive manoeuvering I make it down and happily find one of the guides, rather than
a cave-dwelling troll waiting for me. We quickly set off again, crawling on hands and knees as we spend the next few hours squeezing our way through tunnels, abseiling down more waterfalls and stopping every now and then to gawp at glow maggots or stalactites and mites. The dark and wet caves make it feel as if we’re in Gollum’s lair and I keep half-expecting strange creatures to pop their heads around corners. Indeed, delving into Waitomo’s underground world, of which so much is still unexplored, is exhillarating and genuinely fascinating, although it was not hard to see the semi-relief on all our faces as we emerged back into the sunlight like a group of laughing, scrunchy-eyed moles. I can only imagine how terrifying it would be to be down there without a guide. ❚
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Nasouri Highland FIJI
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A kava conversion We head to a remote village on the mainland of Fiji, where an unlikely spiritual awakening and bucketloads of local brew await WORDS ALEX HARMON
It’s a number of years since I’ve stepped inside a church for a Sunday service. I’m wearing some rosary beads that were bought by a friend – an ironic gift to an atheist. Despite the heat, we are told to cover up out of respect for the locals. Noticing that I’m carelessly under-dressed, my tour guide rummages through the bus and finds me a sarong and an oversized T-shirt with ‘Fiji’ written on the front. It was conservative enough, even if I do appear to be styled by a church charity. Inside the House of God, in the Nausori Village, about an hour’s bus ride from Suva, it’s not our clothing that attract stares. Rather, it’s the 12 of us, mostly faithless Westerners, in a remote Fijian village, crashing a Sunday church service that solicit constant attention. The children can’t concentrate on the service, their eyes transfixed on the two rows of foreigners cooling themselves with woven raffia fans. They whisper to each other, smile and giggle when we smile back. Intermittently, the all-female church choir, decked out in white dresses, breaks into song and the room fills with beautiful music. Putting my own reservations about organised religion aside, I am overcome with a heartwarming feeling, coupled with the last remnants of Catholic guilt. The people in this village, who have no access to electricity are happier, more grounded and more enlightened than most Sydneysiders I know. Finding my religion After the church service we stand outside, greeting the congregation as they come through the doors. We form a line, shaking hands with each person, exchanging “bulas” and smiling from ear to ear. Some of the older ladies kiss us on the cheeks, touch our heads and treat us like they’ve known us their whole lives. Ordinarily, I’d find this confronting but their genuine warmth and excitement is infectious – I’ve even forgotten that I look like a castaway in oversized clothes. One of the churchgoers who speaks English takes us on
a tour of the local village. His name is Samuel and he’s one of the Christian missionaries. He wears a crisp white shirt, navy sulu – basically a man-skirt – and a very serious demeanor. This is in stark contrast to our Fijian guide, Jerry, who drinks beer with breakfast and tells us he falls in love with a new girl on every tour. Samuel shows us inside some of the houses, made mostly of tin. They’re humble and unadorned, with outdoor toilets and beds on the floor made from layers of pandanus leaf. We’re taken inside one of the houses to see a family of 11 eating their lunch. There’s a tablecloth on the floor and they sit, contentedly eating and chatting. Walking through the village, I hoist my sarong above my knees to avoid the mud from the morning’s rain. As it’s slippery, I hang onto the guy next to me to avoid going skidding down the path. Samuel looks at me with disdain – it must be my uncoordinated tiptoeing that has attracted his attention. It’s not. He pulls me aside. “Miss, you must not wear your sarong like that,” he whispers. “You must not show your knees to the locals – it is very disrespectful.” Ashamed, I quickly lower the length of my sarong, apologising for my ignorance. He returns to the front of the pack and directs us to the village chief’s bure, where we’ll be having lunch. En route, the guys from my tour make a beeline for me and with mock disappointment, brandi me the “village whore”. The chief’s bure – a hut, essentially – is the village’s town hall. It’s the most impressive building there, made of bamboo and coconut tree materials. Entering, we are treated to more singing by the locals and a traditional kava ceremony. The Village People Kava is special to the Fijian people. Sure, it looks like ditch water and has a strangely medicinal, dentist’s mouthwash taste, but it’s a special, ceremonial drink with natural calming effects. It is used for all occasions, from welcoming important guests to celebrating a birth. The village chief sits in front of us, wearing a three-
The local kava brewery The village chief sits in front of us, wearing a threepiece suit and no shoes, but retains an aura that demands respect. Jerry, our guide, appoints a “chief” from our group who presents the village chief with a gift of Kava root. It’s very important to respect the village chief – if you show up emptyhanded you probably won’t be allowed to enter the building. It reinforces the story Jerry related earlier that morning on the bus. “Back in the cannibalistic days, a reverend from England was killed and eaten for insulting a village when he touched the hair of the chief,” he says. We look shocked, quietly wondering how much of the cannibalism is exaggerated for the benefit of campfire ghost stories. “If you don’t believe me you can go to the museum in Suva and see the boiled sole of a shoe. It’s all that remains.” We laugh dismissively but Jerry remains insistent, deadpan, continuing his grisly tale. “The villagers didn’t know what shoes were, they thought they were part of a white man’s body,” he says. “So when they killed this reverend they tried to eat his shoes too.” Sure enough, the legend appears to be true. A quick Google that evening of ‘cannibal’, ‘Fiji’ and ‘boiled shoe’ turns up the legend of Thomas Baker, the Methodist missionary who was eaten by Fijians in 1867. Thankfully, cannibalism has died out due to the acceptance of Christianity. But hey, there’s nothing like a tale of human
The English reverend was killed and eaten for insulting a village
flesh-eating to get you in the mood for lunch. Several bowls of kava later, we are presented with a smorgasbord of Fijian food. There’s an array of fruit, seafood, chicken and lots of taro on offer. Samuel tells us to get our cameras ready. “Please, take photos, it shows your respect,” he says. “And show your friends at home all the wonderful food the ladies have prepared.” They look so proud of their bounty of food, fanning it profusely to keep the flies away. After we sit on the floor to eat, we realise that no one else has helped themselves to food. Instead, the 30 or so villagers watch us with eager eyes as we dive into lunch. I cannot help but feel guilty as they smile, deriving such obvious pleasure from watching us eat. The root of evil Unaware of what it is when first picking it up, I end up with exceedingly too much taro on my plate. It’s a root vegetable
Simple but spectacular
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that’s tasteless and dry but I devour every piece of it with a smile on my face, not wanting to disrespect anyone – not after the sarong incident. After the girl next to me can’t get through her plate of food and puts it aside, I decide to finish hers off too. More smiles from the locals come my way. This time, my knees are well and truly covered. Outside the chief’s bure, a woman gives me her address so I can send her the photos of the locals. She puts the piece of paper in my hand and wraps her hands around mine as I promise to fulfill her wish. “God bless you,” she says before I get back on the bus. That evening, we stay at the four-star Uprising Beach Resort with traditional Fijian bures that have all the modern, luxurious finishes. We gather around the pool, wearing very little clothing and taking photos of each other jumping into the pool that overlooks the Pacific Harbour. Jerry has had a few too many beers and has just discovered planking. Although he’s a little behind the times, he’s hundreds of years ahead of the villagers. Jerry has Facebook and keeps pestering us to add him so we can upload the shots. “There’s free Wifi here, do it now,” he begs. We order some more pineapple daiquiris and flick through our phones, enjoying the last light of the sun as it sets over the ocean. Back in Australia it’s a few weeks before I manage to get the photos of the villagers printed and sent off to the Nausori Village. Unable to forget their warmth and hospitality, I hope the photos arrive but it soon dawns on me that I’ll never know either way. I suppose I’ll just have to have a little faith in the Fijian postal service. ❚ Alex Harmon travelled with Feejee Experience Hop-On-Hop-Off bus. feejeeexperience.com
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ISLAND ESCAPES A bit like survivor but a lot more fun! Strand yourself on one island for 2, 4 or 6 nights. If you can stand the pain of coral lagoons and coconut palms then stay longer. Packages from $289
GREAT PAIRS 5 days 4 nights 2 islands Straight out of your tropical Island Fantasy. Two island stays have always been extremely popular so we ve made it really easy for you with a matching of islands that we think make a great pair. Packages from $543 Daily departures for all packages and passes from Denarau Marina For info and bookings see your travel centre or contact us: phone 0800 293 766 or SKYPE awesomeﬁji
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Simple but spectacular
Complete freedom to explore the Yasawa Islands, including Beachcomber. Choose from a 5, 7, 10, 12, 15 or 21 day pass. Passes from $279
Prices are ex Denarau, Fiji, in New Zealand dollars and valid for travel to 1 April 2012 - 31 March 2013.
JETSET ACCOMMODATION JetSet Accommodation is one of Nadi's premier choice for upscale accommodations desirably located in Nadi Bay. The exceptional location of our hotel places you amidst the famous Wailoaloa Beach and the Nadi International Runway.
FACILITIES & SERVICES
s Walk-out balconies s Air-Condition s Bathtub s Internet data-port in rooms s 32" LCD TV s Fridge / Freezer s Tea/Coffee making facilities
s Free airport pickup s Large outdoor swimming pool s Restaurant s FREE on-site parking s FREE wired & wireless internet service s Conference center
PALM ROAD, WAILOALOA, NADI. FIJI ISLANDS PH: (+679) 6728750 FAX: (+679) 6728751 Email: email@example.com See our website for rates and bookings
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Harvest the future Thereâ€™s a basket-load of work in NZ. Janine Arnerich from Seasonal Work NZ tells us travellers can take their pick WORDS ALEX HARMON
So thatâ€™s where goon comes from
What is the job market like in NZ for seasonal work? There is always seasonal work available in the horticultural, hospitality and construction sectors, though you need to do some research to find the right regions and industries for the particular time of year. What are the key industries hiring currently? The kiwifruit and citrus seasons can last until around mid-winter and some workers are required year-round. There is a whole range of work in kiwifruit packhouses, including grading supervisors, quality controllers, graders, packers, strappers, tray preparers, stackers, and forklift drivers. What are the general rates of pay? Good packhouse staff can earn around NZ$130 per day before tax. Pickers are usually paid on a contract basis. The fruit-picking sector pay starts at approximately NZ$14 per hour, dependent upon experience.
Do I need any qualifications? 40
Are there short-term positions available? Most employers appreciate staff who stay a few weeks at least, but during the fruit-picking season, even one week can be helpful. Being seasonal, once the demand passes the work often ends but there is always someone further along the road needing workers. Is sponsorship a possibility? If you have specialist skills e.g. chef or trained horticulturist and want to stay, then this is highly likely. NZ Immigration has a list of skills that are in demand and if you fit one of those categories there is certainly potential for an employer to seek long-term work permits or even residency based on your skills. Any advice for making contact with employers? Advise your arrival date and give a brief description of our skills and experience. Also, have your work permit and tax details organised prior to arrival. Open a bank account for direct crediting of pay. And make sure you have time to enjoy all the beautiful places and great tourist activities that New Zealand has to offer.
Photo: Getty Images
What documents will I need before I can start work in NZ? You need a work permit, Inland Revenue Department (tax) number and tax codes. You can apply for these online before you arrive.
Most of the seasonalwork.co.nz jobs just require a positive attitude.
BAREESSENTIALS NORTHISLAND OZWORK
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BANKS Nationwide banks like Westpac, ANZ and Bank of New Zealand (BNZ) have the most branches and, if you are planning on spending a long period of time here, issue cards for use at ATMs (cashpoints).
You can change money at any bank. American Express, Visa, Mastercard and Thomas Cook travellers’ cheques are all widely recognised. Banks will give cash advances on Visa and Mastercard credit cards but for American Express you must go to a designated Amex office. Foreign exchange is available for all international flights at airports.
HEALTH Auckland Metro Doctors Travelcare
For accident and medical care and all international travel vaccines. Pharmacy, X-ray and laboratory. Open six days. BNZ Tower, cnr 125 Queen & Swanson Sts, Auckland, 09 373 4621, Email: doctor@ travelcareMD.com TMVC For all your medical needs. Christchurch, 03 379 4000
Air New Zealand 0800 737 000, Soundsair Wellington 0800 505 005 03 520 3080
INSURANCE Downunder Worldwide Travel Insurance 09 376 8292, firstname.lastname@example.org
Post Offices are open 9am-5pm on weekdays. Mail can be sent to ‘Poste Restante, CPO’ in the relevant city. CPO stands for Chief Post Office. Mail will be held for 30 days. Delivery time is two days between major centres, a bit longer for rural areas.
VISA BEERVANA Westpac Stadium. Aug 17-18. From $37.50 Now in its 11th year, this is the best annual opportunity for beer lovers to experience the biggest range of crafted beers under one roof. Wellington
PHONES Pay phones in NZ are usually of the card variety and phone cards are available in values of $5, $10, $20 and $50. The country dial code for New Zealand is 64.
Country & area codes New Zealand 64; Auckland 09; Northland 09; Rotorua/Taupo 07; Wellington 04; South Island 03 Directory service International: 0172
Directory assistance 018
you must also have sufficient money (NZ$1000 for each month of your visit) to support yourself during your stay. If you wish to stay longer than three months, you should apply for a Visitor’s Visa (which will allow you to stay in NZ for up to nine months) before you arrive in New Zealand, although British passport holders on arrival in NZ may be issued a permit valid for a stay of up to six months.
International operator: 0170 (reversed charges) Emergency (Fire, ambulance, police): 111 Compass communications Kia Ora cards. Prepaid calling card kiaoracard.co.nz
DOM AIRLINES Auckland Air New Zealand 0800 737 000, 09 357 3000 Great Barrier 09 275 9120
The type of visa you will need to enter NZ is determined by how long you want to stay and what you want to do while you’re there. If you are only entering New Zealand as a tourist you may need a visa depending on what country you are from. If you intend to work while you are in New Zealand you can apply for one online, once you’re here. Citizens of many countries can get a 23-month Working Holiday visa. immigration.govt.nz Visitor’s Visas Citizens of a number of countries do not require visas if they are visiting NZ for three months or less. On arrival, all visitors must be in possession of a valid ticket or enough funds to purchase a ticket out of NZ to a country they have the right of entry to, ie: you must already hold a visa for that country if one is required – you cannot expect to get the visa once you are in New Zealand. Your passport must be valid for three months beyond when you expect to leave NZ, and
If you like New Zealand and decide you’d like to stay here longer you may extend your stay to a maximum of nine months in an 18 month period. To do this you need to apply for a further visitor permit. You can apply for these permits online ( immigration.govt. nz). If you do need to apply in person, New Zealand Immigration Service offices are located in Auckland, Hamilton, Palmerston North, Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin. The Auckland office is very busy and you may experience long delays when applying there. When applying, you need to show your outward ticket or prove your ability to purchase such a ticket; your current passport, a recent passport-sized photo and evidence that you still have sufficient funds to support yourself. If you do not have the required funds, you will need a guarantee of accommodation and maintenance from a NZ friend or relative who is willing to be your sponsor.
Photo: Tourism New Zealand
TONGARIRO CROSSING Made world famous ever since Peter Jackson decided to transform the Tongariro’s Mt Ngauruhoe into Mt Doom in those films, the Crossing is widely touted as being New Zealand’s best day walk, and we’re inclined to agree. After a steep (and early) start up the aptly-named Devil’s Staircase, you find youself emerging over a peak to see the simply breathtaking Emerald Lakes. It’s a long day, allow 6-8 hours for the walk, meaning it’s well worth staying in nearby village National Park, rather than doing a daytrip from Taupo. Beware that if you’re hoping to also tackle the Mt Doom peak along the way, you’ll want to be picking up the pace from the word go.
GETTINGAROUND BUSES & TOURS Atomic Shuttles South Island buses. 03 349 0697, atomictravel.co.nz Bottom Bus Far south tours. 03 477 9083, bottombus.co.nz Flexi-Pass Combines InterCity and Newmans. 0800 222 146, flexipass.co.nz Flying Kiwi Wilderness Expeditions 0800 693 296, flyingkiwi.com Kiwi Experience 09 336 4286 kiwiexperience.com Magic Travellers Network 09 358 5600, magicbus.co.nz Nakedbus.com 0900 62533, nakedbus.com
RENTAL FIRMS Ace Rental Cars 0800 502 277, acerentalcars.com.nz Apex Car Rentals 0800 939 597 , apexrentals.co.nz Backpacker Campervan & Car Rentals 0800 422 267, backpackercampervans.com Bargain Rental Cars 0800 001 122, bargainrentals.co.nz
United Campervans 09 275 9919, unitedcampervans.co.nz Wicked Campers 0800 246 870, wickedcampers.co.nz
Econo Campers 09 275 9919, econocampers.co.nz
Air Pacific Fiji flights 0800 800 178, airpacific.com
Escape Rentals 0800 216 171, escaperentals.co.nz
Emirates 050 836 4728, emirates.com
Explore More 1800 447 363, exploremore.co.nz
Jetstar 0800 800 995, jetstar.com
Stray 09 526 2140, straytravel.com
Pegasus Rental Cars 0800 803 580, rentalcars.co.nz Rent-A-Dent 0800 736 823, rentadent.co.nz Rental Car Village 09 376 9935, hire-vehicles.co.nz
Qantas 0800 808 767, qantas.com.au Virgin Australia 0800 670 000, virginaustralia.com Webjet Flights comparison website. webjet.com.au
FERRIES Interislander Linking Wellington and Picton. 0800 802 802, interislander.co.nz
CANYONING For a day of adventure it’s hard to beat canyoning in Auckland. It’s like an outdoor playground. Imagine sliding, jumping, abseiling and jumping into rock pools in some of the most magnificent rainforests. Here the water has carved perfect pools into the dark volcanic rock. You spend the day sliding down natural hydro slides, abseilingrappelling down mystical waterfalls and getting some airtime with the awesome jumps into deep crystal-clear pools. canyonz.co.nz
Nationwide Rental Cars 0800 803 003, nationwiderentalcars.co.nz
Standby Cars 0800 789 059, standbycars.co.nz
Air New Zealand 1800 737 000, airnewzealand.co.nz
NZ Travelpass 0800 339 966, travelpass.co.nz
West Coast Shuttle Greymouth to Christchurch buses. 03 768 0028, westcoastshuttle.co.nz
Spaceships 0800 772 237, spaceshipsrentals.co.nz
Darn Cheap Rentals 0800 800 327, dcrentals.co.nz
Jucy Rentals 0800 399 736, jucy.co.nz
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Book all your travel with
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Best Value Accommodation in Queenstown
Located on the most popular street in Queenstown - 49 Shotover Street. Dorm Rooms, Triple Ensuites, Quad Ensuites and Double Ensuites Rooms. Exclusive deals at the biggest party bar in town - the famous Altitude Bar. Guaranteed the cheapest travel deals in town at Base Travel. Call +64 3 441 0344 or email email@example.com.
Best Value Accommodation in Wanaka
In the centre of beautiful Wanaka â€“ 73 Brownston Street. 3 Dorm Options (all snowboard friendly), Standard and Ensuite Private Rooms. Central heating throughout and a drying room. Only minutes walk from one of the most stunning lakes and mountain views in the world. After a day on the slopes join the party at Mint Bar. Call +64 3 443 4291 or email firstname.lastname@example.org
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ROLL WITH IT
ZORBING This is another crazy New Zealand invention. The concept is quite simple: you climb into an inflated plastic sphere, strap yourself in and then roll head-over-heels downhill, rotating within the sphere at speeds of up to 30km per hour. You can do it dry or you can take a wash cycle where you’ll get soaked. You’ll get to it on a day trip from Auckland, just roll on down to the Agrodome near Rotorua. agrodome.co.nz
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Pip & Pete’s Last Minute Special
Try our last minute super special T Met service predicting a high of 20 degrees in Auckland today? M Then we’ll give you a sizzling 20% discount off the already low rates on the Econo Camper of your choice. Contact Econo Campers now on Freephone 0800 759 919 or check www.econocampers.co.nz for the daily temperature and for full details. Subject to availability within 72 hours of vehicle pick up from either Auckland or Christchurch
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Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. 09 275 4443, skywaylodge.co.nz
In Maori language the city’s name is Tamaki Makau Rau, which translates as “the city of 100 lovers”. Auckland is admired for its cosmopolitan flavour, its sunny harbour for the fact that it makes every other city in NZ feel like a small town.
Albert Park Backpackers (VIP) 27-31 Victoria St East. 09 309 0336, email@example.com
i-SITE Auckland Atrium, skycity, Cnr Federal & Victoria Sts Backpackers World Travel 16-20 Fort St, 09 379 4126, backpackersworld.com
Base Auckland 229 Queen St. 0800 227 369, stayatbase.com
COLDPLAY Mt Smart Stadium. Sat, Nov 10. From $99. If you agree with those who call them the world’s biggest band, then you need to book tickets fast for the band’s soon to be sold out show.
i-SITE Visitor Information 287 Queen St, 09 979 2333, firstname.lastname@example.org
Parks Information Centre Details on tramping, camping grounds, the Gulf Islands and exploring the regional parks. 21 Pitt St, open Mon-Fri, 09 366 2000
Auckland International Backpackers (BBH) 2 Churton St, Parnell. +64358 4584,
Base Travel Level 3, 229 Queen St, 09 358 4874, basetravel.com
Ferry Tickets Online (For inter-island ferry services) 39 Beach Rd, 0800 500 660, ferrytickets.co.nz
Airport Transport The airport is 21km from the city and shuttle buses run every half an hour. Airbus Airport is every 20 mins. 0800 247 287, airbus.co.nz City buses Tickets and timetables are available from the 10 central city Star Mart stores. 09 366 6400
Photo: Tourism New Zealand, Arno Gasteiger
Bamber House (BBH) 22 View Rd, Mt Eden. 09 623 4267, hostelbackpacker.com
Georgia Parkside Backpackers 189 Park Rd, Grafton. 09 309 8999, email@example.com Kiwi International Queen St Hotel and Hostel 411 Queen St. 0800 100 411, kiwihotel.co.nz Kiwi International Airport 150 McKenzie Road, Mangere. 0800 801 919, firstname.lastname@example.org Lantana Lodge (BBH) 60 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. 09 373 4546, email@example.com The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. 09 307 0181, nomadshostels.com
BK Hostel (BBH) 3 Mercury Ln, Central. 09 307 0052, firstname.lastname@example.org
New Zealand Backpackers 8 Nixon St, Ponsonby. 09 376 3871, email@example.com
Auckland InterCity Travel Centre Buses around Auckland and the rest of New Zealand leave from here. Located beside the casino, Hobson St, 09 623 1503
Central City Backpackers 26 Lorne St. 09 358 5685, backpacker.net.nz
Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. 09 300 9999, nomadshostels.com
City Garden Lodge 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. 09 302 0880
Train Intercity trains arrive and depart from Britomart, 12 Queen St, Auckland. 09 270 5211
City Groove Backpackers (BBH) 6 Constitutional Hill, Parnell. 09 303 4768, firstname.lastname@example.org
Oaklands Lodge (BBH) 5A Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. 09 638 6545, oaklands.co.nz
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Pentlands (BBH) 22 Pentland Ave, Mt Eden. +64 9638 7031
WORD FROM THE STREET
Freya Smith-Jack, Scotland MATAMATA This rural town, two hours south of Auckland, got an injection of tourism after those three little Lord of the Rings films were made. Matamata suddenly became ‘Hobbiton’, and Peter Jackson was kind enough to leave most of the set for people to explore. A tour of the location will let you visit some of the leftover hobbit holes which were fully recreated for The Hobbit film instalments last year. The set is on a private farm, which also offers sheep shearing demonstrations and scenic views of the picturesque Kaimai ranges. The town of Matamata itself is famous for local dairy farming, skydiving over the ranges and the Firth Tower, which was constructed in the 1880s to provide a lookout over the beautiful countryside.
HOWDY FREYA. WHAT’VE YOU BEEN UP TO? Cape Reinga, Bay of Islands, Auckland, Rotorua, and Waitomo WHERE ARE YOU STAYING? In a campervan… it gets kinda cold out at night though BEST EXPERIENCE? The day I spent at Waitomo, because the black water rafting is amazing FAVOURITE NIGHT SPOT? The nightclub at the Backpackers in Auckland because it had a really good vibe and there were always quizzes and stuff to watch on the television
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Ponsonby Backpackers (BBH) 2 Franklin Rd, Ponsonby. 09 360 1311, email@example.com
Beaches Auckland is surrounded by great beaches, including Judges Bay, Kohimarama, Okahu Bay, St Heliers Bay and popular Mission Bay.
Princeton Backpackers 30 Symonds St. 09 963 8300, firstname.lastname@example.org Queen Street Backpackers (VIP) 4 Fort St. 09 373 3471, email@example.com
Aotea Square Markets Every Friday and Saturday at Aotea Square, Queen St. NZ fashion labels, retro gear, foods, Pacific-style crafts, jewellery and furniture, 09 309 2677, the-edge.co.nz
Uenuku Lodge (BBH) 217 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby. 09 378 8990 Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. 09 363 8889, surfandsnow.co.nz The Brown Kiwi (BBH) 7 Prosford St, Ponsonby. 09 378 0191, brownkiwi.co.nz Verandahs (BBH) 6 Hopetown St. 09 360 4180 Yaping’s House (BBH) 79 Owens Rd, Epsom. 09 623 4486, firstname.lastname@example.org Uenuku Lodge (BBH) 217 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby. 09 378 8990 YHA Auckland City Cnr City Rd & Liverpool St. 09 378 8990 YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. 09 302 8200, yha.co.nz
AUCKLAND DO Explorer Bus Sightseeing around Auckland, 0800 439 756 explorerbus.co.nz On the Road Tours and Charters Sightseeing bus tours of Auckland and the north shore. 0800 486 877, ontheroad.co.nz Harbour Ferries Ferries can take you all over the harbour. Info about timetables and destinations available at the Ferry Building on Quay St. 09 424 5561 America’s Cup Sailing Experience A unique opportunity to participate as crew on an actual America’s Cup yacht. Take the helm, exert energy on the grinders or simply sit back and enjoy the action as you sail the beautiful Waitemata Harbour. The two hour sails departs daily from the Auckland Viaduct. No experience necessary. 0800 397 567, explorenz.co.nz Auckland Museum See the world’s finest collection of Maori and Pacific Island artefacts. Explore New Zealand’s natural history, discover the largest bird that ever lived and experience a Maori cultural show. 09 306 7067, aucklandmuseum.com Auckland Zoo See kiwi birds in the nocturnal house and over 900 animals. 09 360 3800, aucklandzoo.co.nz
Awesome Adventures Three-day Bay of Islands tours. 0800 658 058, awesomenz.com
SMASHING PUMPKINS Vector Arena. Sat, Aug 4. $89. Heading over the ditch after playing Splendour in the Grass in Byron Bay, Billy Corgan and his boys will grace the stage in Auckland. Mahuhu Crescent, Auckland Coast to Coast Walkway A walk between Waitemata Harbour and Manukau Harbour. It takes about four hours and takes in Albert Park, Auckland Uni, Auckland Domain, Mt Eden, and One Tree Hill. Devonport A 15-minute ferry or bus ride across the harbour on the north shore, Devonport is an idyllic setting for a picnic or a stroll along the beach. Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter & Underwater World A seawater aquarium with a moving walkway through a transparent underwater cavern. Antarctic Encounter is a recreation of an Antarctic environment where you jump on a snow mobile and tour a penguin colony, get attacked by an orca whale. Orakei Wharf, Tamaki Drive, 09 528 0603, kellytarltons.co.nz Mt Eden The highest point in the city, 4km south of the city centre with spectacular views. Get there by bus. NZ National Maritime Museum The museum celebrates NZ’s maritime heritage. 09 373 0800, nzmaritime.org Ponsonby West of the city, explore Victorian architecture and narrow streets with cafés, bars, clothes shops, art galleries and some lively nightlife. Queen Street Auckland’s main boulevard with shops, cafés and restaurants. Whale & Dolphin Safari See whales and dolphins from Auckland’s doorstep. The Hauraki Gulf is considered one of the most biologically and geographically diverse marine parks in the world. See dolphins, whales, sea birds and/or even penguins. Dolphins are viewed on over 90% and whales on 75% of trips. Departs daily from the Auckland Viaduct. Dolphin viewing guaranteed. 0800 397 567, explorenz.co.nz
Fullers Cruises Inner harbour cruises and longer cruises to Hauraki Gulf islands, with all-day passes and hop-on, hop-off options. 09 367 9111. Pride of Auckland The Pride of Auckland operates an impressive fleet of large, purpose-built yachts on the sheltered waters of Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour and is world famous for its sailing and dining cruises. Join them for a coffee, lunch, dinner, Waiheke sailing experience cruise or a full-day sailing adventure and experience the “City of Sails” for what it is known for. 0800 397 567, explorenz.co.nz Auckland Bridge Climb Up and over the Auckland Harbour Bridge. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay, 0800 286 4958, ajhackett.com Auckland Harbour Bridge Jump NZ’s only ocean touch bungy, 40m high. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay, 0800 286 4958, ajhackett.co.nz Canyonz Ltd Explore subtropical canyons and abseil down crashing waterfalls. 0800 422 696, canyonz.co.nz New Zealand Surf Tours 09 832 9622, newzealandsurftours.com Sky Jump Fall from the top of the 192m Sky Tower, 0800 759 586, skyjump.co.nz Sky Walk Walk around the external 1.2m wide platform, 192m up. 09 368 1835, skywalk.co.nz Fullers Bay of Islands Tours One, two and three-day tours from Auckland. 09 358 0259, boitc.co.nz
Whangaparaoa Peninsula. A popular holiday spot, the peninsula offers water sport opportunities from windsurfing to boating. Busy in summer, this whole area is popular with bushwalkers. Hisbiscus Coast Visitor Info Hibiscus Coast Hwy, 09 426 0076. Marco Polo Backpackers Inn (BBH) 2d Hammond Ave, Hatfields Beach, 09 426 8455, marcopolo.co.nz
Victoria Park Market 3km from the CBD, an outdoor market with fruit, veggies, books, clothes and handicrafts.
Famous for its white sand and isolation, there are several coastal walks here and gorgeous views.
The island is dominated by a native forest a network of criss-crossing tracks. greatbarrier.co.nz
Come to Waiku for snorkelling, fishing and exploring the caves. The Bream Bay Coast is a magnificent expanse of white sparkling sand just 30 mins drive from the city.
Orama Resort (YHA) Karaka Bay Rd, 09 429 0063, yha.co.nz
Stray Possum Lodge (VIP) 09 429 0109, email@example.com
Hen & Chickens Island and Sail Rock These offshore areas offer great sailing and diving. Boat trips leave from the area daily.
BARRIER DO Fullers Cruises Depart from the Ferry Building. 09 367 9102
Waipu Wanderer (BBH) 25 St Marys Rd, 09 432 0532.
Great Barrier Airlines Fly out of Auckland Airport or Auckland Shore Airfield. 0800 900 600,
Fullers Great Barrier Explorers Cruise and tours, summer only (October-April). 09 367 9111
WAIHEKE ISLAND A 35-minute ferry ride from Auckland. It is popular for its long sweeping beaches and craft shops.
The waterfront has been developed in the style of the early settlers (except with cafés, restaurants and galleries) and Mount Parahaki towers 241m above the city. Stroll along enticing beaches and dive at Poor Knights Islands. one of the world’s top diving sites. Also pay a visit to petty Whangerei Falls. Whangarei I-SITE Visitor Centre 92 Otaika Rd, 09 438 1079
Hekerua Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 11 Hekerua Rd, Oneroa, 09 372 8990, hekerualodge.co.nz
WHANGAREI STAY Bunkdown Lodge (BBH) 23 Otaika Road, 09 438 8886, bunkdownlodge.co.nz
Waiheke Island Hostel Seaview Road, Onetangi, Ph: (09) 372 8971, waihekehostel.co.nz
Coastal Cow Backpackers (BBH) 299 Molesworth Drive, Mangawhai Heads, 09 431 5444, firstname.lastname@example.org
Little Earth Lodge (BBH) 85 Abbey Caves Road, 09 430 6562, littleearthlodge.co.nz
The “winterless north” is Northland’s famous tag. The subtropical climate is good all year round and the area boasts some of the best beaches in NZ. Highlights include Ninety Mile Beach, Kerikeri and the beautiful Bay of Islands.
Piano Hill Farm (BBH) Piano Hill, Kauri, 09 433 7090, thefarm.co.nz
Whangarei Falls Backpackers (BBH) Ngunguru Road, Glenbervie, 09 437 0609, whangereifalls.co.nz
The hot springs here have indoor and outdoor thermal pools and waterslides. Malolo House (BBH) 110 Commercial Rd, 09 420 7262, helensville.co.nz/malolo.htm
YHA Whangarei, Manaakitanga 52 Punga Grove Ave, 09 438 8954, yha.co.nz
NORTHISLAND WHANGAREI DO Dive! Tutukaka Poor Knights Islands dives, plus tours with kayaking, cave explorations, snorkelling, swimming, sea mammal-spotting.
PAIHIA Paihia is one of the most beautiful towns on the North Island with equal parts love for adventure, nature and a raucous nightlife. AwesomeNZ Tours include Maori mythology, dolphin swimming and fast boats. Maritime Building, on the waterfront, 0800 653 339, awesomenz.com Bay of Islands i-Site The Wharf, Marsden Rd, Freephone: 09 402 7345 Base Travel 18 Kings Rd, 09 402 7111, basetravel.com
PAIHIA STAY Base Pipi Patch 18 Kings Rd 09 402 7111, stayatbase.com Captain Bob’s Beachhouse (BBH) 44 Davis Cres, 09 402 8668, email@example.com
Centabay Lodge (BBH) 27 Selwyn Rd, 09 402 7466, firstname.lastname@example.org Mayfair Lodge (BBH) 7 Puketona Rd, 09 402 7471, bay-of-islands.co.nz/accomm/ mayfair.html Mousetrap (BBH) 11 Kings Rd, 09 402 8182, email@example.com Peppertree Lodge (BBH) 15 Kings Rd, 09 402 6122, peppertree.co.nz
BOOK NOW! Opua Forest The DOC provides a leaflet of forest walks, which features a small stand of Kauri trees. Drive into the forest via Oromahoe Rd or walk from School Rd. Te Rawhiti Cape Brett Walkway Guided tours include experienced local Maori guides, all meals, hut accommodation, transport by boat to hut taking in the famous Hole in the Rock, Maori culture, myths and legends and hangi, 09 403 7248
Saltwater Lodge (BBH) 14 Kings Rd, 0800 002 266, saltwaterlodge.co.nz
Waitangi Treaty Grounds The site where the historic Treaty of Waitangi was signed. Also see carvings that represent all Maori tribes in NZ and one of the largest ceremonial waka (canoe) in the world, launched every Waitangi Day (Feb 6). \ 09 402 7437, waitangi.net.nz
YHA Paihia Cnr Kings and MacMurray Rds, Paihia, 09 402 7487, yha.co.nz
Boat cruises & dolphin watching Cape Brett “Hole in the Rock” Cruise Four-hour cruises, 09 402 7421
Pickled Parrot Backpackers (BBH) Grey’s Lane, 09 402 6222, firstname.lastname@example.org
PAIHIA DO Haruru Falls Picturesque falls offering swimming, camping and kayaking opportunities – and a pub!
Dolphin Discoveries With the warmest water and friendliest dolphins (bottlenoses), this is a great place for swimming with the dolphins (conditions permitting). The high-speed luxury catamaran offers easy
follow us on access to the water and hot showers. Or do a “Hole in the Rock and Dolphin Viewing Experience” and see dolphins, whales, birds and other wildlife. Visit Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island during your island stop and explore this amazing place. 0800 365 744, explorenz.co.nz Dune Rider Unique Adventure Tour Make your way up to Cape Reinga while traveling to the Gumdiggers Park and drive along the famous Ninety Mile Beach. Climb huge sand dunes and boogie board back down on the way and stop at the world famous Mangonui Fish Shop for fish and chips. Departing daily from Paihia. 0800 365 744, explorenz.co.nz Excitor “Hole in the Rock” Adventure One-and-a-half hours, 0800 653 339, excitor.co.nz Lion New Zealand – “The Ultimate Day Sail in the Bay” Join Lion New Zealand, NZ’s most famous maxi yacht. Enjoy a fresh BBQ lunch and activities such as kayaking, snorkelling, natural walks at Otehei Bay or simply kick back and enjoy the island atmosphere. 0800 365 744, email@example.com
Overnight Cruises The Rock 24-hour cruise featuring kayaking, snorkelling with stingrays, fishing for your dinner, dolphin spotting. 0800 762 527, rocktheboat.co.nz Awesome Cape Reinga Via Ninety Mile Beach – learn Maori myths and legends, navigate the quicksand stream, ride the dunes, visit a thousand year old forest. 0800 653 339, awesomenz.com
RUSSELL Catch a ferry to Russell, originally a sprawling fortified Maori settlement. Information Centre End of the Pier, 09 403 8020
RUSSELL STAY The Coast Road Farm (BBH) Coast Rd, Whangaruru, 09 433 6894, thefarm.co.nz Ferry Landing (BBH) 395A Aucks Rd, Okiato Point, 09 403 7985, firstname.lastname@example.org Wainui (BBH) 92D Te Wahapu Rd, 09 403 8278, email@example.com
This central North Island town is famous for its geothermal activity and hot spring mud pools, thanks to a number of regularly spouting geysers. It is nature at its most exciting, but also most pungent, with all the volcanic goings on being to blame for the town’s infamous sulphur scent. The most renowned geyser in the region, the Pohutu Geyser, which means ‘big splash or explosion’, usually erupts up to 30 metres high every hour. Just over a third of Rotorua’s population is Maori and the locals take full advantage of all the geothermal activity for their cooking and heating. It is also a great place to indulge in a spa treatment or two, with the bubbling mud pools being full of natural ingredients that are wonderful for the skin. No trip to Rotorua is complete without visiting the living thermal village, Whakarewarewa, to experience real Maori culture. The people of this village will welcome visitors and demonstrate how they utilise the geothermal activity for everyday living, as well as cooking a Hangi – which is the traditional method of using heated stones to cook food in a pit oven covered by earth. You can enjoy cultural performances and guided tours of the area and learn all there is to know about the shifting tectonic plates that New Zealand straddles at the earth and science facility.
Photo: Tourism New Zealand, Chris McLennan
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KERIKERI A highlight of the sparsely populated town is the wonderful Maori village. There is also an historic Maori pa (fortress) and the Kerikeri Mission Station. Dept of Conservation Office 09 407 8474
KERIKERI STAY Kerikeri Top 10 Holiday Park & Aranga Backpackers Aranga Drive off Kerikeri Rd, 09 407 9326, kerikeritop10.co.nz Hideaway Lodge Wiroa Rd, 0800 562 746 Hone Heke Lodge (BBH) 65 Hone Heke Rd, 09 407 8170, kerikeri.net/honeheke Kerikeri Farm Hostel (BBH) Ph: (09) 407 6989, firstname.lastname@example.org
NRTH BAY OF ISL i-Site Far North South Rd in Jaycee Park. 09 408 0879, email@example.com Farm Backpackers (BBH) End of Lamb Rd, Pukenui, 09 409 7863, firstname.lastname@example.org North Wind Lodge Backpackers (BBH) Otaipango Rd, Henderson Bay, 09 409 8515, email@example.com Pukenui Lodge Hostel (BBH) Cnr SH1 & Wharf Rd, Pukenui, 09 4098837, firstname.lastname@example.org
MATAURI BAY A very well-kept tourist secret, Matauri Bay is Maori land, home to the Ngati Kura people, and has beautiful, quiet beaches. The Welcome Swallow Backpackers Off Matauri Bay Road, 09 4051 019, welcomeswallow.com The Rainbow Warrior A monument to the noble but doomed Greenpeace ship, Rainbow Warrior, sits on the site of a Maori pa on the headland at Matauri Bay. Travellers come here to dive the ship’s wreck.
WHANGAROA This area was once well known for its Kauri forests, but these days it’s more about game fishing. The scenery is ruggedly spectacular and sailing cruises are popular. Tourist info centre Boyd Gallery, 09 405 0230. Sunseeker Lodge (BBH) Old Hospital Rd, 09 405 0496, sunseekerlodge.co.nz
DOUBTLESS BAY Less touristy than the Bay of Islands, the area around Doubtless is made up of tiny bays and coves, beach resorts and historical villages.
KARIKARI PENIN The Rusty Anchor (BBH) 1 Tokerau Beach Rd, 09 406 7141, email@example.com
TAIPA A tiny village with a boat-dotted harbour. You can swim with dolphins, hire boats or kayaks, and swim at the beautiful Coopers Beach. Taipa is worth visiting for its pretty beach.
KAITAIA The ideal starting point for Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach. Backpackers Heaven (VIP) Wagener Holiday Park, Houhora Heads, 09 409 8564, firstname.lastname@example.org Main Street Lodge (BBH) 235 Commerce St, 09 408 1275, email@example.com Pukenui Lodge (YHA) Corner Wharf Rd & State Hwy 1, Houhora, 09 409 8837, yha.co.nz Waitiki Landing Far North Rd, 09 409 7508
KAITAIA DO Ancient Kauri Kingdom Giant kauri tree stumps are fashioned into furniture and other trinkets. Far North Regional Museum Featuring all kinds of goodies, like the skeleton of a giant moa bird and salvages from local shipwrecks. Pack or Paddle Thoms Landing, 09 4098 445, firstname.lastname@example.org
90 MILE BEACH The west coast of the Far North Peninsula is Ninety Mile Beach,a beautiful strip of coastline that takes you way up to Cape Reinga.
AHIPARA This is the best spot for sandtobogganing, located at the south end of Ninety Mile Beach. YHA Ahipara Backpackers & Motor Camp 168-170 Takehe St, 09 409 4864, yha.co.nz Farm Backpackers (BBH) End of Lamb Rd, Pukenui, 09 409 7863 email@example.com Endless Summer Lodge (BBH) 245 Foreshore Rd, 09 409 4181, endlesssummer.co.nz
AHIPARA DO Tuatua Tours Guided quad tours of Ninety Mile Beach sand dunes. 3 Main Road, 0800 494 288, tuatuatours.co.nz
HOKIANGA Heading south, you’ll hit Hokianga Harbour and the quiet twin towns of Omapere and Opononi. The Koutu Boulders are worth a look. Hokianga Information 09 405 8869, firstname.lastname@example.org
HOKIANGA STAY Okopako Lodge (BBH) 140 Mountain Rd, South Hokianga, 09 405 8815, Globe Trekkers Lodge (BBH) SH12, Omapere, 09 405 8183. Waitawa Farm Hostel (BBH) 164 Pukemiro Rd, 09 409 5809, email@example.com
DARGAVILLE On the road from Hokianga, the famous “Big Trees”, the native kauri trees of Waipoua Kauri Forest. Once in Dargaville, attractions include the masts from the ill-fated Rainbow Warrior and the fascinating bird sanctuary nearby. Dargaville Info Centre 61 Normanby St, 09 439 8360.
DARGAVILLE STAY Dargaville Holiday Park (VIP) 10 Onslow St, 09 439 8296, firstname.lastname@example.org Kaihu Farm (BBH) RD6, Kaihu, 09 439 4004, email@example.com The Greenhouse Hostel (BBH) 13 Portland St, 09 439 6342, firstname.lastname@example.org
MATAKOHE Travellers Lodge (BBH) 64 Jellicoe Rd, Ruawai, 09 439 2283 Kauri Country Northland 3hr 4WD eco-adventures, including free ticket to Kauri Museum. Devon Grove, Matakohe, 09 431 6007
WAIKATO Waikato District Info Centre 160 Great South Rd, Huntly, 07 828 6406 Shekinah (BBH) 122 Pungapunga Rd, Pukekawa, 09 233 4464, email@example.com
HAMILTON Hamilton is NZ’s largest inland city and is known for its parks and gardens.
Hamilton Visitor Centre 5 Garden Place, Hamilton 07 958 5960 visithamilton.co.nz
Given that it calls itself the “Rose Town of New Zealand”, it’s not surprising the 2,000-strong Rose Garden is the town’s major attraction.
DOC Office Level 5, Rostrevor St.
HAMILTON STAY Colts n Fillies (BBH) 37 Smith Rd, Karamu, 07 825 9809, ktt.co.nz
Te Awamutu Info Centre 1 Gorst Ave, 07 871 3259. Te Awamutu District Museum 135 Roche St. 07 872 0085
Forty Winks (BBH) 267 River Rd, Claudelands, 07 855 2033, firstname.lastname@example.org J’s Backpackers (BBH) 8 Grey Street, 07 856 8934, jsbackpackers.co.nz
KAWHIA The main attraction of this peaceful port town, 55km south of Raglan, is the Maketu Marae where you can experience the rich cultural tapestry of NZ’s indigenous history.
Waikato Museum of Art & History Cnr Victoria and Grantham Sts. More than 3,000 items, with a permanent Maori War canoe. Gold coin donations welcomed.
Just 59km south of Hamilton, many travellers use this small farming community as a base for visiting the Waitomo Caves.
MATAMATA Rural town famous for being turned into Hobbiton in those films – some of the set still stands. Hobbiton Backpackers 81 Arawa St, 07 888 9972, email@example.com
CAMBRIDGE This very Olde English town with its town square and abundance of trees is in the heart of Waikato. The region is famous for its horses and jetboating. Cambridge Tourist Info Centre Cnr Queen and Victoria Sts, 07 823 3456
Otorohanga Visitor Info Centre 26 Maniapoto St, otorohanga.co.nz
WAITOMO Definitely one of the best adventure spots in New Zealand. There are a range of caving adventures, from glowworm ogling, to long dramatic abseils deep towards the centre of the earth and excellent blackwater rafting (jump in an inner tube and let the underwater current carry you). Waitomo Caves Discovery Centre 21 Waitomo Caves Rd, 0800 474 839. waitomodiscovery.org
WAITOMO STAY Juno Hall (BBH) 07 878 7649
RAGLAN One of New Zealand’s best-known surfing beaches, Raglan is situated 48km west of Hamilton. Raglan Information Centre 2 Wainui Rd, 07 825 0556
Kiwipaka School Rd, 07 878 3395 Rap Raft & Rock Backpackers (BBH) 95 Waitomo Caves Rd, 07 873 9149, firstname.lastname@example.org
Dundle Hill Walk A two-day walk through native bush; limestone outcrops includes overnight with spectacular views at Kays Cabin. 0800 924 866
Ewe Dream’Inn (BBH) 2458 State Highway 22, Glen Murray, 09 233 3144, glenmurray.net Raglan Backpackers & Waterfront Lodge (BBH) 6 Wi Neera St, 07 825 0515, raglanbackpackers.co.nz
Marakopa Falls, Managapohue Natural Bridge and Piri Piri Cave, 30 minutes drive from Waitomo.
Karioi Backpacker Lodge (VIP, BBH) & Raglan Surfing School 5 Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay, 07 825 7873, karioilodge.co.nz Solcape Accommodation Centre (BBH) 611 Wainui Rd, 07 825 8268 Waikatoa Beach Lodge (BBH) 8 Centreway Rd, Sunset Beach, Port Waikato, 09 232 9961, sunsetbeach.co.nz
Rap Raft ‘n’ Rock Blackwater adventures combining abseiling, rafting, glowworms, caving and rockclimbing all in one five-hour adventure. 0800 228 372, caveraft.com The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co Cave tubing in the blackness of the Ruakuri Cave river. 585 Waitomo Caves Rd, 0800 228 464, blackwaterrafting.co.nz
NORTHISLAND Woodlyn Park Pioneer Show, caving adventure, and quirky accommodation in a 1950s train carriage. Waitomo Valley Road, 07 878 6666.
TE KUITI Located 19km south of Otorohanga, Te Kuiti is known as “The Shearing Capital of the World”. There’s also a magnificent Maori marae (meeting house) here. Te Kuiti Information Centre Rora St, 07 878 8077. Dept of Conservation 78 Taupiri Street, 07 878 1080. Tiffany’s Tearooms, Rora St, 07 878 7640
TE KUITI STAY Casara Mesa Backpackers (BBH) Mangarino Rd, 07 878 6697, email@example.com
KING COUNTRY The King Country is the region south of the Waikato and the Maori influence has remained strong with the opportunity to experience Maoritanga (the Maori way).
A series of towns loop around the peninsula, broken by rolling green hills. Highlights include Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove and the cosy little Coromandel township.
THAMES A great canyoning spot, with loads of natural pools and waterslides.
BOOK NOW! FOREST PARK There are heaps of walks to choose from. The Colville Range is the most popular but the Department of Conservation in the Kauaeranga Valley is the place to begin.
Information Thames 206 Poland St, 07 868 7284
Some 55km north of Thames is the town of Coromandel, home to the popular Driving Creek Railway.
DOC Office 07 868 6381
Coromandel Information Centre Kapanga Rd, 07 866 8598.
Canyonz Ltd 0800 422 696, canyonz.co.nz
Dickson Holiday Park Victoria St, 07 868 7308,
Anchor Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 448 Wharf Rd, 07 866 7992, anchorlodgecoromandel.co.nz
Gateway Backpackers (BBH) 209 Mackay St, 07 868 6339, firstname.lastname@example.org
Black Jack Backpackers (BBH) Kuaotunu, 07 866 2988, black-jack.co.nz
The Sunkist International Backpackers (BBH, VIP, YHA) 506 Brown St, 07 868 8808, email@example.com
Colville Farm (BBH) 2140 Colville Road, Colville, 07 866 6820
Te Aroha YHA Hostel Miro Street, Te Aroha (south of Thames), 07 884 8739, yha.co.nz
Coromandel Town Backpackers (BBH) 732 Rings Road, 07 866 8830 Lions Den (BBH) 126 Te Tiki St, 07 866 8157
follow us on Tidewater Tourist Park (YHA) 270 Tiki Rd, 07 866 8888, yha.co.nz
Hot Water Beach & Cathedral Cove Rated as one of the world’s 10 best beaches, Hot Water Beach is an unusual Tui Lodge (BBH) phenomenon. For two hours 60 Whangapoua Rd, 07 866 8237, either side of low tide you can firstname.lastname@example.org dig a hole in the sand and sit in your very own thermal spa pool.
OPOUTERE This is a good place to go to just chill out. The beach here is glorious and generally empty. Skinny dip anyone? YHA Opoutere 389 Opoutere Rd, 07 865 9072, yha.co.nz
WHANGAMATA A real surfie town, Whangamata has one of the best surf beaches in New Zealand and a laidback atmosphere to match. Whangamata Info Centre 616 Port Rd, 07 865 8340 Southpacific Accommodation (BBH) Cnr Port Rd and Mayfair Avenue, 07 865 9580, thesouthpacific.co.nz Whangamata Backpackers Hostel (BBH) 227 Beverley Tce, 07 865 8323
Whitianga, perched on pretty Mercury Bay, is the most popular stop-off point for travellers on the Coromandel. You can learn to make your very own bone carving, dive and surf to your heart’s content. Whitianga Information Centre 66 Albert St, 07 866 5555 Baywatch Backpackers (VIP) 22 The Esplanade, 07 866 5481, email@example.com
Photo: TNT Images
TAURANGA One of the fastest growing places in NZ, Tauranga combines a young population with a harbourside atmosphere. Enjoy diving, sailing, fishing and surfing. Tauranga i-site 95 Willow St, 07 578 8103 Department of Conservation 253 Chadwick Rd West, 07 578 7677
TAURANGA STAY Appletree Cottage 47 Maxwell Rd, 07 5767404, appletreebackpackers @hotmail.com Bell Lodge (BBH) 39 Bell St, 07 578 6344, bell-lodge.co.nz Harbourside City Backpackers (BBH) 105 The Strand, 07 579 4066, backpacktauranga.co.nz Just The Ducks Nuts Backpackers (BBH) 6 Vale St, 07 576 1366, justtheducksnuts.co.nz Loft 109 (BBH) 8/109 Devonport Rd, 07 579 5638, loft109.co.nz
Cat’s Pyjamas Backpackers (BBH) 12 Albert St, 07 866 4663.
Tuaranga Central Backpackers 64 Willow St, 07 571 6222, tgabackpack.co.nz
Fernbird (BBH) 24 Harsant Ave, Hahei, 07 866 3080, firstname.lastname@example.org
YHA Tauranga 171 Elizabeth St, 07 578 5064, yha.co.nz
Seabreeze Tourist Park (BBH) 1043 SH25 Tairua-Whitianga Rd, 07 866 3050
It’s the tallest mountain in Australasia, at 3,754m, and the drive there, past the stunning blue Lake Pukaki is almost as jaw-droppingly gorgeous as the destination itself.
BAY OF PLENTY The Bay of Plenty, extending from the Coromandel Peninsula to the East Cape, was named by Captain Cook in honour of both the fertile nature of the region and the friendly local Maoris he encountered. Activities include paragliding, sky diving, white water rafting, 4WD safaris, gliding, jet boating and swimming with dolphins.
Cathedral Cove Lodge Villas (VIP) 41 Harsant Ave, Hahei Beach, 07 866 3889.
On the Beach Backpackers Lodge (BBH, YHA) 46 Buffalo Beach Rd, 07 866 5380, yha.co.nz
Tatahi Lodge (BBH) Grange Rd, Hahei, 07 866 3992, dreamland.co.nz/tatahilodge
TAURANGA DO Butlers Swim With Dolphins 0508 288 537 Waimarino Adventure Park 07 576 4233 Coyote Bar and Restaurant 107 The Strand, 07 578 8968, coyotes.com
MT MAUNGANUI Home to Ocean Beach which, at 15km long, is considered by locals to be among the finest surfing in the country. The town stands at the
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foot of Mt Maunganui, a slab of rock 232m high, around which you can appreciate stunning views. Mt Maunganui Visitor Centre Salisbury Ave, 07 575 5099 Te Puke Information Centre 130 Jellicoe St, 07 573 9172
MAUNGA STAY Hairy Berry Backpackers (BBH) 2 No One Rd, Te Puke, 07 573 8015, email@example.com Mount Backpackers (BBH) 87 Maunganui Rd, 07 575 0860, mountbackpackers.co.nz Pacific Coast Backpackers (BBH) 432 Maunganui Rd, 0800 666 622, pacificcoastlodge.co.nz
WHAKATANE For a very different adventure, visit White Island, an active volcano where sulphur-lipped fumeroles and roaring steam vents create a stark wonderland. Karibu Backpackers (BBH) 13 Landing Rd, 07 307 8276 Lloyds Lodge (BBH) 10 Domain Rd, 07 307 8005 The Windsor (BBH) 10 Merritt St, Whakatane, 07 308 8040, firstname.lastname@example.org
WHAKATANE DO Dive White 168 The Strand, 0800 348 394, divewhite.co.nz White Island Tours Departs Whakatane daily. 0800 733 529
MAUNGA DO Kiwifruit Country Young Rd, Te Puke, 07 573 6340, kiwifruitcountry.co.nz Te Puke Vintage Auto Barn, 26 Young Rd, 07 573 6547
ROTORUA Rotorua is a must for three reasons: the abundance of accessible Maori culture, the steaming volcanic scenery and adrenalin thrills. Visit the bubbling mud at Whaka, take a dip in a thermal bath and pig out on
a hangi at a Maori concert. Even the air here is special – it’s heavy with sulphur. You’ll smell it the moment you arrive. Tourism Rotorua & Visitor Info Centre 1167 Fenton St, 07 348 5179
ROTORUA STAY Base Rotorua 1286 Arawa St, 0800 227 369, stayatbase.com Cactus Jack Backpackers (BBH) 1210 Haupapa St, 07 348 3121, email@example.com Crank Backpackers 1140 Hinemoa St, 07 348 0852, crankbackpackers.co.nz
Spa Lodge (BBH) 1221 Amohau St, 07 348 3486, firstname.lastname@example.org
ROTORUA DO Agroventures Five adrenalin activities in one adventure park, including bungy jumping, sprint boats and a wind tunnel. 1335 Paradise Valley Rd. 07 357 4747, agroventures.co.nz Hell’s Gate Mud baths to heal and stimulate your body 07 345 3151 Kaitiaki Adventures Extreme whitewater activities. Sledging and rafting trips on the Kaituna and Rangitaiki Rivers, 0800 338 736, kaitiaki.co.nz
Crash Palace Backpackers (BBH, VIP) 1271 Hinemaru St, 07 348 8842, email@example.com
NZONE Skydive Skydive from 15,000ft over Rotorua, 07 345 7250, nzone.biz
Planet Nomad Backpackers (VIP) 1193 Fenton St, 07 346 2831, firstname.lastname@example.org
Off Road NZ Sprint car racing, Monster 4X4, 4WD Bush Safari and more. 07 332 5748, offroadnz.co.nz
Rotorua Central Backpackers (BBH) 1076 Pukuatua St, 07 349 3285, email@example.com
bathing spa on the edge of Lake Rotorua. 07 348 1328, firstname.lastname@example.org
Polynesian Spa Historical hot mineral water
Raftabout Whitewater rafting and sledging. 0800 723 822, raftabout.co.nz Skyline Skyrides Spectacular Get the best views and luge down 5km of tracks, or take the 150ft skyswing. 07 347 0027, skylineskyrides.co.nz Waikite Hot Pools Natural hot spring water bathing. Provides private spas, BBQ area and campground facilities, 20 minutes south of Rotorua. 07 333 1861 Waimangu Volcanic Valley The location of the Pink and White Terraces which were destroyed in the 1886 volcanic eruption. Wet ‘n’ Wild Rafting Guided rafting options on five different rivers – the Wairoa, Rangitaiki, Kaituna, Motu and Mohaka. 0800 462 7238, wetnwildrafting.co.nz Zorbing Get harnessed inside
WORD FROM THE STREET
Set amidst a geothermal landscape is The Living Thermal Village of Te Whakarewarewa. Join a guided tour and discover how our people have learnt to live in harmony with Mother Earth. Sit back and relax at our Maori Cultural Performances. Indulge in the unique geothermal cuisine that can only be found at Whakarewarewa.
Richard Porter, USA HEY PERRINE. SEEN MUCH ON THE NEW ZEALAND? I’ve been all over the North Island and top of the South GOT A FAVOURITE PLACE? Ahipara… because it’s beautiful! HOW ABOUT AFTER DARK? The Classic in Auckland. Good comedy… awkward moments WHERE TO NEXT Auckland, for quite awhile
www.whakarewarewa.com Phone +64 7 349 3463
10% OFF General Admission Present advert in store for discount. Excludes Family Pass and Combos.
NORTHISLAND the perspex Zorb before rolling head-over-heels downhill. 07 357 5100, zorb.com
MAORI CULTURE While you’re here, take the opportunity to see how the Maori lived before European settlment. The Maori Arts and Crafts Institute in Whakarewarewa is a good place to begin. nzmaori.co.nz. NZ Maori Arts & Crafts Institute 07 348 9047 The Realm of Tane A blend of guided tour, character theatre and story telling within a series of magical sets. 1220 Hinemaru St, 07 349 2999, maoriculture.co.nz Rotoiti Tours 0800 476 864 Tamaki Maori Village Tours, hangi and concert. Hinemaru St, 07 349 2999, maoriculture.co.nz Whakarewarewa Thermal Village Maori village set amidst a landscape of geothermal wonders. Take a guided tour, see a cultural performance, check out Maori art. 07 349 3463, whakarewarewa.com
Tiki Lodge 104 Tuwharetoa St, 0800 845 456, tikilodge.co.nz YHA Taupo 56 Kaimanawa St, 07 378 3311, yha.co.nz
TAUPO DO Craters of the Moon One of the most geothermally active areas in the region, full of boiling mud and steaming craters. Wairakei Park. Huka Falls Take a relaxing walk up to Huka Falls where the water pours over the 35ft drop at up to 62,000 gallons per second. The more energetic will enjoy the trek up Mt Tauhara where you will be rewarded with sweeping views. Hukafalls Jet Jetboating by the falls. 0800 485 2538, hukafallsjet.com Rock ‘n’ Ropes Ropes Courses including the trapeze and Giant Swing. At Crazy Catz on Highway 5. 0800 244 508, rocknropes.co.nz Taupo Bungy Bungy from a platform 47m above the Waikato River. 202 Spa Rd. 0800 888 408, taupobungy.com
Lake Taupo used to be a hidden gem, but nowadays it’s the place to visit in the North Island, thanks to its wicked mix of adrenalin adventures, sedate lake life and after-dark partying.
Tongariro Crossing Transport and National Park Links From Taupo and Turangi during summer months (NovMay). 07 377 0435, thetongarirocrossing.co.nz
Taupo Visitor Centre 30 Tongariro St, 07 376 0027 laketauponz.com
Taupo Tandem Skydiving Skydive from up to 15,000 feet (over one minute freefall). Free shuttle, DVD and digital photos. Yellow Hangar, Taupo Airport. 0800 275 934, taupotandemskydiving.com
TAUPO STAY Berkenhoff Lodge (BBH) 75 Scannell St, 07 378 4909, email@example.com Blackcurrant Backpackers (BBH) 20 Taniwha St, Ph: (07) 378 9292, blackcurrantbackpackers@xtra. co.nz Rainbow Lodge (BBH) 133 Summers St, Ph: (08) 9227-1818, firstname.lastname@example.org Finns Global Backpackers (VIP) Cnr Tongariro & Tuwharetoa Sts, 07 377 0044, go-global.co.nz Silver Fern Lodge Flash-Packers (VIP) Cnr Tamamutu & Kaimanawa Sts, 07 377 4929, silverfernlodges.co.nz Sunset Lodge (BBH) 27 Tremain Ave, 07 378 5962, email@example.com Base Taupo 7 Tuwharetoa St, 07 377 4464, stayatbase.com Taupo Urban Retreat
65 Heu Heu St, 0800 872 261, taupourbanretreat.co.nz
TURANGI On the southern shores of Lake Taupo, Turangi is known as the trout fishing capital of the world. It offers heaps of outdoor adventure activities and is a good base for venturing into the Tongariro National Park. Turangi Visitor Centre Ngawaka Place, 07 386 8999
TURANGI STAY A Plus Backpackers (BBH) 41 Iwiheke Pl, Turangi, 07 386 89 79, firstname.lastname@example.org Club Habitat Backpackers Assoc YHA 25 Ohuanga Rd, 07 386 7492, yha.co.nz Extreme Backpackers (BBH) 26 Ngawaka Place, 07 386 8949, extremebackpackers.co.nz
BOOK NOW! Riverstone Backpackers (BBH) 222 Tautahanga Rd, 07 386 7004, riverstonebackpackers.com
TONGARIRO The World Heritage-listed Tongariro National Park, an extraordinary volcanic landscape which became Mordor in those films. Pop into the national park headquarters in Whakapapa. Adventure Lodge & Motel (VIP) Carroll Street, National Park, 07 892 2991, adventurenationalpark.co.nz Forest Lodge (BBH) Cnr Omaki and Ohorere Rds, Owhango, 07 895 4773, email@example.com Howards Lodge (BBH) Carroll St, National Park, 07 892 2827, howardslodge.co.nz YHA Matai Lodge (BBH) 1 Rata St, Ohakune, 06 385 9169, firstname.lastname@example.org National Park Backpackers YHA (BBH) Finlay St. The hostel runs transport to the Tongariro Crossing, 07 892 2870, npbp.co.nz Plateau Lodge & Motel (BBH) Carroll St, National Park, 07 892 2993, email@example.com Ski Haus (BBH) Carroll St, McKenzie St, 07 892 2854, skihaus.co.nz
MT RUAPEHU The park’s showcase is Mt Ruapehu, an active volcano towering at 2,796m.
follow us on River Valley Rafting and horse trekking. 06 388 1444, firstname.lastname@example.org
EAST COAST The East Coast is among the first places in the world to see the sun rise each morning. This is a relatively tourist-free area of New Zealand that has so much to offer that it can only be a matter of time before visitors begin to flock here.
OPOTIKI A summer holiday town which was once a large Maori settlement and the indigenous people maintain a strong presence here. Opotiki Information Centre Cnr St John and Elliot Sts, 07 315 3031 Central Oasis Backpackers (BBH) 30 King St, 07 315 5165, email@example.com Opotiki Backpackers Beach House (BBH) 7 Appleton Rd, Waiotahi Beach, 07 315 5117, firstname.lastname@example.org
EAST CAPE As you head around the Cape the towns get tinier and the scenery more dramatic. At Te Araroa, you can thead around to the East Cape Lighthouse. Brians Place (BBH) Potae St, Tokomaru Bay, 06 864 5870,
@tnt_downunder email@example.com Eastender Backpacker & Horse Treks (BBH) 836 Rangitukia Rd, Tikitiki, 06 864 3820, firstname.lastname@example.org Maraehako Bay Retreat (BBH) SH35, Whanarua Bay, 07 325 2648. Mel’s Place (BBH) Onepoto Beach Rd, Hicks Bay, 06 864 4694, email@example.com
GISBORNE Gisborne is a peaceful surfie town that boasts diving, windsurfing, kayaking and whitewater rafting; try Wainui, Midway and Makarori beaches. You can also soak up the Maori heritage at one of the largest carved maraes in NZ. Flying Nun Backpackers (BBH) 147 Roebuck Rd, 06 868 0461, firstname.lastname@example.org YHA Gisborne 32 Harris St, 06 867 3269, yha.co.nz
WAIROA Wairoa is a large town, great as a stop-over before heading into the area’s main attraction: the gorgeous Te Urewera National Park. Wairoa Visitor Information Centre Queen St, 06 838 7440 Haere Mai Cottage (BBH)
WORD FROM THE STREET
Ruapehu Visitors’ Centre 54 Clyde St, 06 385 8427 Whakapapa Visitor Centre SH 48, Whakapapa Village, 07 892 3729
RANGITIKEI The Rangitikei District is a top destination for adventure sports. Amongst stunning scenery, you can navigate grade five whitewater and take the leap of elasticated faith from an 80m bungy. The Stockmans Lodge (BBH) 9 Dixon Way, 06 388 1584, email@example.com River Valley Dorms 06 388 1444, firstname.lastname@example.org
RANGITIKEI DO Mokai Gravity Canyon Extreme flying fox, bridge swing and bungy jump. 0800 802 864
Diego Figueroa, Chile HEY DIEGO. DONE MUCH TRAVELLING? Auckland, Cape Reinga, Taupo, Hot Water Beach, Coromandel peninsula, Matapouri. GOT A FAVOURITE PLACE? Mainly the north of NZ, if you ask me about beaches, Matapouri was awesome , me and my friends arrived there and we had the beach just for us, nobody else was there, we were like lost in a beach with warm water and white sand AND AFTER DARK? The Wildfire in Auckland, that place is full latin people that makes me feel at home
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49 Mitchell Rd, 06 838 6817 DOC office for hut bookings Lake Waikaremoana, 06 837 3900
NAPIER Napier is a beautiful, surprising city. Its “pleasing to the eye” status is actually the result of an enormous earthquake which meant the entire town had to be rebuilt. Visitor Info Centre 100 Marine Parade, 06 834 1911 Depart of Conservation Office Marine Parade, 06 834 3111
NAPIER STAY Aqua Lodge (BBH) 53 Nelson Cres, 06 835 4523, email@example.com Criterion Art Deco Backpackers (VIP, Roamfree) 48 Emerson St, 06 835 2059, criterionartdeco.co.nz Napier Prison Backpackers (BBH) 55 Coote Rd, 06 835 9933, firstname.lastname@example.org Waterfront Lodge & Backpackers (BBH) 217 Marine Pd, 06 835 3429, napierwaterfront.co.nz
YHA Napier 277 Marine Parade, 06 835 7039, yha.co.nz
HASTINGS Hastings is 20km south of Napier and most notable for its fertile plains, which have given birth to a multitude of beautiful parks, gardens and farms. A1 Backpackers (BBH) 122 Stortford St, 06 873 4285, email@example.com Glenross Lodge (BBH) Route 52, Rakaunui, 06 376 7288, firstname.lastname@example.org Lochlea Farmstay (BBH) 344 Lake Rd, Wanstead, 06 8554 816 email@example.com The Rotten Apple Backpackers (BBH) 114 Heretaunga St, 06 878 4363, rottenapple.co.nz
Home to the impressive Queen Elizabeth Park, the Wairarapa Arts Centre, and the best-tasting icecream in New Zealand. Chanel Backpackers 14-18 Herbert St, 06 378 2877
TARANAKI Best known for its snow-capped mountain, Mt Taranaki. Peaceful and impressive, Taranaki has skifields, excellent surf beaches, great walking and climbing.
MOKAU Palm House Backpackers (BBH) 06 278 6523, taranaki-bakpak.co.nz
Travellers Lodge Hastings (BBH) 608 St Aubyn St, West Hastings, 06 878 7108, tlodge.co.nz
Taranaki’s major town is New Plymouth. One of NZ’s finest art galleries is here (the GovettBrewster Art Gallery). It hosts a great café.
Department of Conservation 220 Devon St West, 06 758 0433
The Wairarapa is a green, tree-lined region north-east of Wellington, famous for its wine and its many sheep – quintessential NZ.
Eco Inn (BBH) 671 Kent Rd, between Egmont Village and New Plymouth on SH3. 06 752 2765
Taranaki Accommodation Lodge (BBH) 7 Romeo St, Stratford, 06 765 5444, firstname.lastname@example.org
Egmont Lodge (BBH, YHA) 12 Clawton St, 06 753 5720, yha.co.nz
TARANAKI DO Climbing Mount Taranaki It is possible to climb it and return to civilisation in one day, however the weather is notoriously volatile and you must always notify the DOC.
Seaspray House (BBH) 13 Weymouth St, 06 759 8934, email@example.com Shoestring Backpackers (BBH) 48 Lemon St, 06 758 0404
North Egmont Visitors Centre, 06 758 3222.
Sunflower Lodge (BBH) 33 Timandra St, 06 758, 2842
STRATFORD Stratford Information Centre Broadway Stratford (State Hwy 3), 06 765 6708, firstname.lastname@example.org
The Missing Leg (BBH) 1082 Junction Rd, Egmont Village, 06 752 2570, email@example.com
New Plymouth Info Centre Puke Ariki Complex, St Aubyn Street, 06 759 6080, firstname.lastname@example.org
PLYMOUTH DO Taranaki Surf Charters 20 Beach Road, 025 592 306, email@example.com
Department of Conservation Pembroke Rd, 06 765 5144
MT TARANAKI The Camphouse (BBH) 6 Egmont Rd, 02 74 538 975, firstname.lastname@example.org
SOUTH TARANAKI Information South Taranaki 55 High St, Hawera, 0800 111 323,
WORD FROM THE STREET
Natasha Hoeberigs, Germany HIYA NATASHA. SEEN MUCH OF NZ? I’ve been everywhere in the North Island GOT A FAVOURITE PLACE? Mimiwhangata, a beautiful spot north of Whangarei, where I enjoy camping, bush walking, swimming, surfing, kayaking. It’s about a four and a half hour drive from Auckland FAVOURITE NIGHT SPOT? I’d have to say staying at the Grande Chateau, in Tongariro next to one of New Zealand’s biggest mountains, Mount Ruapehu. It’s about a two and a half hour drive from Rotorua
Wheatly Downs Farmstay Backpackers (BBH) 484 Ararata Rd, Hawera, 06 278 6523, email@example.com
Ferry to the South Island Boats to Picton on the South Island. Ferries can be booked up well in advance in holiday periods. 0800 802 802, interislandline.co.nz
Braemar House (YHA) 2 Plymouth St, 06 348 2301, yha.co.nz Tamara Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 24 Somme Pde, 06 347 6300, tamaralodge.com
Wanganui Information Centre 101 Guyton St, 06 349 0508, firstname.lastname@example.org Department of Conservation Office Cnr Ingestre and St Hill Sts, 06 345 2402
PALMERSTON NTH Manawatu Visitor Centre
Wellington Visitor Info Centre Corner of Victoria & Wakefield Sts, 04 802 4860, wellingtonnz.com DOC Information Centre Lambton Quay, 04 472 7356
Whanganui National Park The major attraction is the Whanganui River, snaking through picturesque scenery. Explore with a kayak or riverboat tour.
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Ferry Tickets Online 186 Victoria St, 0800 500 660, errytickets.co.nz
BLACK KEYS Vector Arena, Auckland. Sat, Nov 3. From $79 It’s a long way from their modest beginnings as a garage rock band in Akron, Ohio in 2001 but the ‘Keys’ are heading back to New Zealand. Auckland
101 Guyton St, 06 490-508, email@example.com Department of Conservation Office 717 Tremaine Ave, 06 358 9004 Grandma’s Place (BBH) 146 Grey St, 06 358 6928, firstname.lastname@example.org Peppertree Hostel (BBH) 121 Grey St, 06 355 4054.
WELLINGTON The nation’s capital is to many people, New Zealand’s most interesting city. Te Papa, the multi-million dollar museum, has sealed its position as cultural capital too. Wellington has a small centre, is easily navigated on foot and as any Wellingtonian will tell you, it has more cafés per head than New York. The nightlife in “Welly” is pretty special too.
WELLY STAY Base Wellington 21-23 Cambridge Tce. 04 801 5666 stayatbase.com Cambridge Hotel (BBH) 28 Cambridge Tce. 04 385 8829 cambridgehotel.co.nz Downtown Wellington Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. 04 473 8482 email@example.com Lodge in the City (VIP) 152 Taranaki St. 04 385 8560 lodgeinthecity.co.nz
@tnt_downunder Maple Lodge (BBH) 52 Ellice St. 04 385 3771 Nomads Capital 118 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237, nomadscapital.com Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 McDonald Cres. 04 384 3041, backpackerswellington.co.nz Rowena’s Backpackers (VIP) 115 Brougham St. 0800 80 1414 Wellywood Backpackers 58 Tory St. 0508 00 58 58 Worldwide Backpackers (BBH) 291 The Terrace. 04 802 5590, worldwidenz.co.nz YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. 04 801 7280 yha.co.nz
WELLY DO Cable car Walk down Lambton Quay and you will see a sign for the cable car which departs every 10 minutes past Kelburn Park to the Botanic Gardens, 04 472 2199
Photo: Tourism New Zealand, Ian Trafford
WAITANGI Often referred to as the nation’s birthplace, Waitangi is steeped in history. It is where the Declaration of Independence of New Zealand was signed, in 1835, and then, five years later, the Waitangi Treaty, which was signed by representatives of the British crown and Maori chiefs, giving the Maori ownership of their land and the rights of British subjects... well, that’s the official description anyway. Not everybody agrees that it was quite so progressive! It’s a great place to be on either New Year’s Eve or Waitangi Day, on February 6. Nearby Paihia and Russell also boast some of New Zealand’s oldest drinking establishments.
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Cosmic Corner Funk Store The funkiest store in the universe. Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff, who will happily point you in the right direction for parties, events and scenic spots. 215 Cuba St, 04 801 6970, firstname.lastname@example.org Karori Wildlife Sanctuary Many of New Zealand’s rarest birds, reptiles and insects are living freely in this awardwinning conservation safe haven. Look for kiwis on a guided tour by torchlight. Times vary and bookings are essential. Waiapu Rd, Karori. 04 920 9213, sanctuary.org.nz Mount Victoria The views are breathtaking. It’s damn windy so make sure you’re wearing heavy shoes. Walk, drive or bus it. Museum of Wellington City & Sea Queens Wharf, 04 472 8904 Parliament House Free tours. Visit the Beehive, a uniquely designed centre of government with a distinct style of architecture, 04 471 9503
Wellington Rover Tours Small group day tours exploring Wellington, its stunning rugged coastline and the Lord of the Rings locations. 0800 426 211, wellingtonrover.co.nz
Beaches Wellington’s waterfront has cafés, restaurants and parks. Oriental Bay is good for a dip, but the water is cold and not always clean. It’s also good for a walk along the foreshore. If you are desperate for a swim, Scorching Bay is good or head up the coast towards Otaki where the best beaches in the region are found.
SUPER RUGBY Eden Park, Auckland. Sat, July 7. From $20 The Auckland Blues take on Perth’s Western Force in round 20 action of the Investec Super Rugby competition. Eden Park, Auckland Te Papa – The National Museum Experience the earthquake simulation room, find out what the early settlers went through and visit Te Marae, Te Papa’s living modern marae. Free entry, Cable St, 04 381 7000, tepapa.govt.nz
ticketmaster.co.nz Wellington Zoo Located in Newtown and home to a wide variety of weird and wonderful animal and bird life, 04 381 6750 Harbour cruises The harbour is a handsome thing and the best way to fully appreciate its beauty is by boat.
04 233 6628
PAEKAKARIKI Paekakariki Backpackers (BBH) 11 Wellington Rd, 04 902 5967,
PARAPARAUMU The beach here is glorious and the scene of most of the action in town. Barnacles Seaside Inn (BBH, YHA) 3 Marine Parade,
Paraparaumu, 0800 555 856,
Moana Lodge (BBH) 49 Moana Rd, 04 233 2010, moanalodge.co.nz
A sanctuary for rare native birds.
Tranz Rail The best way to explore the Kapiti Coast is by train and most places along the way can be reached within an hour or so, 04 498 3000
There’s a good chance of seeing elusive kiwis and blue penguins. Kapiti Island Nature Tours Tours and accommodation, 06 362 6606,
Stillwater Lodge (BBH) 34 Mana Esplanade, Mana,
WORD FROM THE STREET
SURFING AUCKLAND It may be called the city of sails but Auckland also has some epic waves. Head to Te Henga (Bethells Beach) on the west coast. Auckland’s beaches range from those with white sands and palm trees to the black sands of the west coast with towering cliffs and rainforests.
Susie Sunshine, USA HEY SUSIE. BEEN MANY PLACES IN NZ? I went to Bay of Islands, Auckland, Coromandel, Raglan, Rotorua, Tongariro Crossing,Taupo, Wellington, Nelson, Abel Tasman, Franz Josef, Wanaka, Dunedin, Christchurch, Kaikoura, and then back up again to Auckland..” GOT A FAVE DAY SPOT? I guess outside pretty much anywhere in NZ is my fave day spot, whether it’s surfing Raglan, rum racing in Auckland, hiking in Abel Tasman or Wanaka, etc. Get amongst it mate! AND A FAVOURITE NIGHT SPOT? I liked Boogie Wonderland, but hanging out anywhere down at the waterfront was good.
The Abel Tasman National Park has great tramping with 56,000 acres to explore. The Coastal Track is one of the most popular walks in New Zealand, especially in summer when you can cool down at the stunning beaches. Nelson, Motueka and Marahau are all good bases for visiting the park. Sea kayaking is excellent here too.
MOTUEKA DO Wilsons Abel Tasman 265 High St, 0800 223 582, abeltasman.co.nz
Southern Exposure Abel Tasman Sea Kayaking & Water Taxis 0800 695 292, southern-exposure.co.nz
Abel Tasman Kayaks Ltd 0800 732 529 abeltasmankayaks.co.nz
Airport Shuttle 03 547 5782 Nelson City Taxis 03 548 8225
NELSON STAY Abode of the Buddha 181 Nile St East. 03 546 6890, email@example.com Accents on the Park (BBH/VIP) 335 Trafalgar Square. 03 548 4335, accentsonthepark.com
03 548 7576 Hu Ha Bikerpackers (BBH) State Highway 6, Glenhope. 03 548 2707, firstname.lastname@example.org The Palace Backpackers (BBH) 114 Rutherford St. 03 548 4691, thepalace.co.nz Paradiso (BBH) 42 Weka St. 0800 269 667, backpackernelson.co.nz Rylands’ Retreat 163 Trafalgar St. 03 548 4691, thepalace.co.nz The Palace Backpackers (BBH) 114 Rutherford St. 03 548 9001, email@example.com Shortbread Cottage (BBH) 33 Trafalgar St. 03 546 6681 Tasman Bay Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 10 Weka St. 03 548 7950, tasmanbaybackpackers.co.nz Trampers Rest (BBH) 31 Alton St. 03 545 7477
Almond House (BBH) 63 Grove St. 03 545 6455, almondbackpackers.co.nz
Welcome House (BBH) 108 Parkers Road, Tahunahui. 03 548 5462
Alpine Lodge St Arnaud. 03 521 1869, alpinelodge.co.nz
YHA Nelson Central 59 Rutherford St. 03 545 9988, yha.co.nz
Beach Hostel (BBH) 25 Muritai St. 03 548 6817, nelsonbeachhostel.co.nz The Bug (BBH) 226 Vanguard St. 03 539 4227, thebug.co.nz The Customhouse (BBH) 252 Haven Rd. 03 545 8365, customhousenelson.co.nz Footprints by the Sea (BBH) 31 Beach Rd, Tahuna Beach. 03 546 5441, firstname.lastname@example.org The Green Monkey (BBH) 129 Milton St. 03 545 7421, thegreenmonkey.co.nz Honey Suckle House (BBH) 125 Tasman St.
CBS Canterbury Arena. Aug 19. $129 Dust off your air guitars because Slash returns for an unmissable tour in support of his new album Apocalyptic Love.
Nelson Visitor Centre Cnr Trafalgar & Halifax St, 03 548 2304, nelsonnz.com
The White Elephant (BBH) 55 Whakarewa St. 03 528 6208, whiteelephant.co.nz Vineyard Tourist Units & Cabins 328 High St. 03 528 8550
Wilsons Abel Tasman Sea kayaking, water taxis and lodge accommodation. 0800 223 582, abeltasman.co.nz
Nelson is seen as the “sunshine capital” of NZ. Home to a string of attractive beaches, Nelson is only a short drive away from the famous Abel Tasman National Park. The town boasts great cafés and a strong artistic subculture. Nelson’s great climate is conducive to fruit growing and travellers can find plenty of work in the area.
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NELSON DO Abel Tasman Kayaks 0800 527 8022, kayaktours.co.nz Happy Valley 4x4 Motorbike Adventures Tours around spectacular private farm on chunky fourwheel motorbikes. 03 545 0304, happyvalleyadventures.co.nz Kaiteriteri kayaks Free transport from Nelson. 03 527 8383, seakayak.co.nz Skydive Abel Tasman Tandem jumps from 13,000ft over Abel Tasman.
0800 422 899, skydive.co.nz
NELSON LAKES Located 118km south-west of Nelson, the park comprises Lake Rotoroa and Lake Rotoiti, and is surrounded by forests and mountains. Apart from tramping and skiing at Rainbow Valley and Mt Robert in winter, the lakes offer fishing and other water activities.
MOTUEKA This is an alternative hang-out for creative types and those seeking to veer off life’s fast lane. Most people use Motueka as a base to launch an assault on Abel Tasman National Park, but if you take the time to look around your efforts will be well rewarded. Try Marahau Beach and Cobb Valley. Motueka i-SITE Visitors Centre 20 Wallace St, 03 528 6543, motuekaisite.co.nz
MOTUEKA STAY Bakers Lodge (YHA) 4 Poole St. 03 528 0102, yha.co.nz The Barn (BBH) Harvey Road, Marahau. 03 527 8043 Eden’s Edge Backpackers (BBH) 137 Lodder Lane, Riwaka. 03 528 4242, email@example.com Lagoon Lodge (BBH) 500 High St. 03 528 8652, happyapplebackpackers.co.nz Hat Trick Lodge (BBH) 25 Wallace St. 03 528 5353, hattricklodge.co.nz The Laughing Kiwi (BBH) 310 High St. 03 528 9229, laughingkiwi.co.nz Old Macdonald’s Farm Holiday Park 03 527 8288, firstname.lastname@example.org
Known as the “Heart of the Parks”, the much underrated Golden Bay region is a place of considerable natural beauty. If you venture slightly out of Takaka you will see the Te Waikoropupu (Pupu Springs), one of the largest freshwater springs in the world. Information Centre Willow St, 03 525 9136 Dept of Conservation Office 62 Commercial St, 03 525 8026
TAKAKA STAY Annie’s Nirvana Lodge (BBH, YHA) 25 Motupipi St. 03 525 8766, email@example.com Aquapackers (BBH) Anchorage Bay, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 0800 430 744, aquapackers.co.nz Golden Bay Barefoot Backpackers (BBH) 114 Commercial St. 03 525 7005, bare-foot.co.nz Kiwiana (BBH) 73 Motuipipi St. 03 525 7676 Kanuka Ridge (BBH) 21 Moss Rd, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 03 527 8435, abeltasmanbackpackers.co.nz The Nook (BBH) Abel Tasman Dr. 03 525 8501, firstname.lastname@example.org
@tnt_downunder The Innlet (BBH) Main Rd, Pakawau. 03 524 8040, goldenbayindex.co.nz/theinnlet Somerset House (BBH) Gibbs Rd. 03 524 8624, backpackerscollingwood.co.nz
FAREWELL SPIT Arching east from the top of Golden Bay, this is a sand bar of epic proportions, home to some of the largest sanddunes in the world and some amazing birdlife. Golden Bay Visitor Centre 03 525 9136
MARLBOROUGH The Marlborough Sounds are a beautiful labyrinth of islands and bays, serving as an impressive gateway to the South Island. Hire a kayak to paddle the coves in style, or go swimming with the dolphins. Anakiwa Backpackers (BBH) 410 Anakiwa Rd. 03 574 1388, anakiwabackpackers.co.nz Hopewell (BBH) Kenepuru Rd. 03 573 4341, hopewell.co.nz The Partage Resort Hotel Kenepuru Sound. 03 573 4309, portage.co.nz
PICTON This pretty town is the opening to the South Island, where the North Island ferry comes in, a centre for the many activities in Queen Charlotte Sound. Airport shuttle bus 03 573 7125
PICTON STAY Atlantis Backpackers (BBH) London Quay. 03 573 7390, atlantishostel.co.nz Bayview Backpackers (BBH) 318 Waikawa Rd. 03 573 7668, truenz.co.nz/bayviewbackpackers
River Inn (BBH) Golden Bay. 03 525 9425
The Jugglers Rest (BBH) 8 Canterbury St. 03 573 5570, email@example.com
Shambhala (BBH) Hwy 60, Onekaka. 03 525 8463, shambhala.co.nz
Picton Lodge (VIP) 9 Auckland St. 03 573 7788, pictonlodge.co.nz
KAHURANGI NP The second-largest national park in NZ, Kahurangi includes the Heaphy Track. There are more than 100 bird species and an impressive cave system to be seen here. For info see the Nelson DOC office.
COLLINGWOOD North-west of Takaka is the tiny community of Collingwood (the people aren’t particularly small, their numbers are), a good base for expeditions to Farewell Spit.
Sequoia Lodge (BBH, VIP) 3 Nelson Sq. 03 573 8399, sequoialodge.co.nz Picton Lodge (VIP) 9 Auckland St. 03 573 7788, pictonlodge.co.nz The Villa (BBH) 34 Auckland St. 03 573 6598, thevilla.co.nz Tombstone Backpackers (BBH) 16 Gravesend Place. 03 573 7116, firstname.lastname@example.org Wedgwood House (YHA) 10 Dublin St. 03 573 7797, yha.co.nz
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PICTON DO Dolphin Watch Encounters Picton Foreshore, 03 573 8040, naturetours.co.nz Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company 03 573 6078 Southern Wilderness NZ Guided walk, wine trek and sea kayaking specialists. 0800 666 044, southernwilderness.com Waka Whenua Tours Wine tours. Sightseeing/ historical/ cultural tours also available. 03 573 7877
QUEEN CHARLOTTE On the road-free outer Queen Charlotte Sound, everyone and everything travels by boat. The Queen Charlotte Track covers 71km and passes through magnificent forest, at times allowing spectacular views over the Marlborough Sounds. The whole track can be walked in four days, though you can also ride it by mountain bike. Endeavour Express Water Taxi Day-trips, round-trips and luggage transfers. 03 573 5456
HAVELOCK Nestled at the head of Pelorus Sound, Havelock is the best place from which to explore the Marlborough Sounds. For trampers and mountain bikers there’s the beautiful Nydia Track. DOC Office Mahakipawa Rd, 03 574 2019 Explore Pelorus Sea Kayaks 03 576 5251
Honi-B-Backpackers (BBH) 18 Parker St. 03 577 8441, honi-b.com
96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365, dolphin.co.nz
Koanui Backpackers (BBH) 33 Main St. 03 578 7487, koanui.co.nz
Fyffe House 62 Avoca St, Kaikoura’s oldest building, 03 319 5835.
Leeways Backpackers (BBH) 33 Lansdowne St. 03 579 2213, leewaysbackpackers.co.nr Peacehaven Backpackers (BBH) 29 Budge St. 03 577 9750, email@example.com Stoney Acre 9 Marldene Avenue, Seddon. 03 578 6303, firstname.lastname@example.org
KAIKOURA Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain range. You can also snorkel with dolphins or swim with the inquisitive NZ fur seals (Sept-May). Kaikoura Visitor Info Centre, West End, 03 319 5641
KAIKOURA STAY Adelphi Lodge (BBH, VIP) 26 West End. 0800 423 574, adelphilodge.co.nz Albatross Backpacker Inn (BBH) 1 Torquay St. 03 319 6090, albatross-kaikoura.co.nz Bad Jelly Backpackers (BBH) 11 Churchill St. 03 319 5538, email@example.com Dolphin Lodge (BBH) 15 Deal St. 03 319 5842, firstname.lastname@example.org Dusky Lodge (BBH) 67 Beach Rd. 03 319 5959 The Lazy Shag (BBH) 37 Beach St. 03 319 6662
Sunrise Lodge (BBH) 74 Beach Rd. 03 319 7444
Nikau Cottages 48 Main Rd. 03 443 9010
Top Spot Backpackers (BBH) 22 Deal St. 03 319 5540
PELORUS SOUND The largest waterway within the Marlborough Sounds, it can be accessed from Havelock, Linkwater or Rai Valley.
BLENHEIM The largest town in Marlborough, and considered (ahem, also) the“sunshine capital of New Zealand”. Whitewater rafting on the Buller and Gowan Rivers is great fun. Blenheim Information Centre The Forum Building, Queen St, 03 578 9904
Kaikoura Kayaks Paddle with the playful fur seals, dusky dolphins and marine life of Kaikoura. Seal kayaking, kayak school, hire, retail and kayak fishing. 19 Killarney St, 0800 452 456, kaikourakayaks.co.nz Seal Swim Kaikoura Swim with wild NZ Fur Seals. 58 West End, 0800 732 579, sealswimkaikoura.co.nz
CHRISTCHURCH Christchurch is the South Island’s major city and a lively, pretty base with a distinctly English feel to it. Throw in Mount Cook and Mount Hutt with their skifields (early June to late October) and the Canterbury area is well worth spending some time discovering. Christchurch & Canterbury i-Site Visitor Centre Cnr Deans Av & Kilmarnock St 0800 423 783 christchurchnz.com
Kiwi House 373 Gloucester St. 03 381 6645 kiwihouse.co.nz Marine Backpackers 26 Nayland St. 03 326 6609 themarine.co.nz
C’CHURCH STAY Around the World Backpackers 314 Barbadoes Street. 03 365 4363 aroundtheworld.co.nz
Point Break Backpackers (BBH) 99 Seaview Road. 03 388 2050 pointbreakbackpackers.co.nz The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. 03 381 5504 oldcountryhousenz.com
At The Right Place 85 Bealey Street. 03 366 1633 atrp.co.nz Avon City Backpackers Worcester Street. 03 389 6876, avoncitybackpackers.com
Tranquil Lodge (BBH) 440 Manchester St. 03 366 6500 tranquil-lodge.co.nz
Canterbury House (BBH) 257 Bealey Ave. 03 377 8108, email@example.com
Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. 03 377 7931 rucksacker.com
Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. 03 377 1897, chesterst.co.nz
Vagabond Backpackers (BBH) 232 Worcester St. 03 379 9677 vagabondbackpackers @hotmail.com
Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. 03 366 9720, backpack.co.nz/foley
Haka Lodge 518 Linwood Ave. 03 980 4252 hakalodge.com Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546 jail.co.nz
Black Cat Cruises Wildlife Cruises on Lyttelton Harbour. Free shuttle bus from Christchurch, 03 328 9078. blackcat.co.nz Skydivingnz.com Skydiving and training courses, 0800 697 593 skydivingnz.com
Kiwi Basecamp (BBH) 69 Bealey Ave. 03 366 6770 firstname.lastname@example.org
BACKPACKING at it’s
Lyell Creek Lodge (BBH) 193 Beach Rd. 03 319 6277, email@example.com
Bluemoon Lodge (BBH) 48 Main Rd. 03 574 2212, bluemoonhavelock.co.nz
Rutherford YHA Hostel 46 Main Road. 03 574 2104, yha.co.nz
Department of Conservation 133 Victoria St, 03 379 9758
YHA Kaikoura, Maui 270 Esplanade. 03 319 5931, yha.co.nz
KAIKOURA DO Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain r Albatross Encounter Enjoy the sight of the magnificent albatross so close to the boat you can almost touch them. 96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365 albatrossencounter.co.nz Dolphin Encounter Swim with the acrobatic dusky dolphins or if you prefer, join the tour to view them from the boat.
TRAVELLERS’ PARADISE just a short walk form the city but behind the garden gates you will feel a million miles away. Rest, relax and enjoy our hostel or indulge in a little luxury at our recently added Spa Pool and Sauna area while experiencing the excitement of the South Island’s largest city. Tranquil gardens, lovingly restored villas, custom hand-made furniture, warm cozy central heating plus the company of Max, the hostel puppy.
FREE WiFi vouchers worth $5 per night FREE Sauna & Spa Pool FREE Tour, Activity & Bus Pass Booking Service
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SOUTHISLAND Up Up and Away Hot air ballooning, 03 381 4600, ballooning.co.nz
SUMNER This surf beach is also a great place to chill for a while. If you’re feeling adventurous, mountain biking, paragliding and surfing are just some of the activities you can try. The Marine Backpackers (BBH) 26 Nayland St. 03 326 6609, themarine.co.nz
BANKS PENINSULA Banks Peninsula is a beautiful region with a stunning coastline chock full of mountains and wildlife. The two harbours of Akaroa and Lyttelton are craters of a once majestic volcano.
LYTTELTON Lyttelton is a quaint township with a beautiful scenic harbour and historic buildings. The harbour is a great place for boating, while the surrounding hills are good for mountain biking and walking. Lyttelton Information Centre 20 Oxford St, 03 328 9093
AKAROA Swim with dolphins, horse-ride and paraglide. If your tastes are a little more sedate, the foreshore is lined with cafes, galleries and boutiques. Akaroa Information Centre 80 Rue Lavaud, 03 304 8600 Akaroa Shuttle Christchurch to Akaroa buses. 0800 500 929 Akaroa French Connection Tours and shuttle bus, 0800 800 575
AKAROA STAY Bon Accord Backpackers (BBH) 57 Rue Lavaud. 03 304 7782, bon-accord.co.nz Chez La Mer (BBH) 50 Rue Lavaud. 03 304 7024, chezlamer.co.nz Double Dutch (BBH) 32 Chorlton Road, Okains Bay. 03 304 7229, doubledutch.co.nz Halfmoon Cottage (BBH) SH25 Barrys Bay. 03 304 5050, halfmoon.co.nz Onuku Farm Hostel (BBH) 03 304 7066, onukufarm.com
Dolphin Experience Swim with dolphins in Akaroa Harbour. 61 Beach Rd, 0508 365 744, dolphinsakaroa.co.nz
LEWIS PASS About 200km north of Christchurch, the Lewis Pass connects the west and east coasts on the SH7, with stunning surrounding scenery.
Black Cat Cruises Offer a number of cruises in Akaroa. See Akaroa Harbour or swim with dolphins. 03 328 9078.
03 685 8039, dobson.co.nz
Methven i-SITE Visitor Centre 121 Main St, Methven, 03 302 8955,
Tallyho Lodge & Backpackers 7 School Rd. 03 685 8723
NZ Ski.com Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt. nzski.com
METHVEN STAY Big Tree Lodge (BBH) 25 South Belt. 03 302 9575, firstname.lastname@example.org
Hanmer Springs boasts the Hanmer Springs Thermal Reserve, where the water can reach 40°C (03 315 7511, hotfun.co.nz). Mt Lyford offers good winter skiing and is a cheaper option to the South Island resorts.
Backpacker Heaven (YHA) Cnr Bank & McMillan Sts. 03 302 8999, yha.co.nz
Department of Conservation Cnr Amuri Rd & Jacks Pass Rd, 03 315 7128 The Hanmer Connection Christchurch to Hanmer Springs buses. 0800 242 663
HANMER STAY Hanmer Backpackers (BBH) 41 Conical Hill Rd. 03 315 7196, email@example.com Kakapo Lodge (YHA) 14 Amuri Avenue. 03 315 7472, yha.co.nz Le Gite Backpackers (BBH) 3 Devon St. 03 315 5111, legite.co.nz Waipara Sleepers (BBH) 12 Glenmark Dr, Waipara. 03 314 6003, lewaiparasleepers.co.nz
CASTLE HILL Gateway to the Craigieburn Range. Chill Adventures Multi-mountain snow passes. chillout.co.nz Springfield Hotel State Highway 73, Springfield. 03 318 4812, springfieldhotel.co.nz
ARTHUR’S PASS This township is the HQ for the magnificent national park which offers tramping expeditions to skiing. National Park Visitor Centre 03 318 9211 Rata Lodge Backpackers (BBH) State Highway 73, Otira Arthur’s Pass National Park. 03 738 2822 Smylies Accommodation (YHA) 03 318 9258, yha.co.nz
METHVEN Methven is a small, friendly town popular with fishermen, hunters and backpackers. The area provides a variety of adrenalin thrills, including hot air ballooning, bungy jumping and skydiving. Mt Hutt also has the longest ski run in
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AKAROA DO Akaroa Museum 71 Rue Lavard, 03 304 1013
Kowhai House (BBH) 17 McMillan St. 03 302 8887, kowhaihouse.co.nz Mt Hutt Bunkhouse (BBH) 8 Lampard St. 03 302 8894, mthuttbunks.co.nz Pinedale Backpacker Lodge (BBH) 11 Alford St. 0800 638 483, pinedalelodge.co.nz Redwood Lodge (BBH) 3 Wayne Place. 03 302 8964, firstname.lastname@example.org Skiwi House (BBH) 30 Chapman St. 03 302 8772, skiwihouse.com Snow Denn Lodge (YHA, VIP) Cnr Bank & McMillan Sts. 03 302 8999, yha.co.nz
TIMARU Despite being industrial, it’s picturesque with views of the Southern Alps, plains and sea. 1873 Wanderer Backpackers (BBH) 24 Evans St. 03 688 8795 Old Bank Backpackers 232 Stafford St. 03 684 4392 Timaru Backpackers 44 Evans St. 03 684 5067 Toru Toru Wha Backpackers 334 Stafford St. 03 684 4729
GERALDINE As well as a wonderful old movie theatre and whitewater rafting on the Rangitata River, visiting the mighty Emily Falls is recommended. Geraldine Information Centre Talbot Street, 03 693 1006 4x4 New Zealand Wilderness adventures and The Lord of the Rings tours, 03 693 7254, 4x4newzealand.co.nz Rangitata Rafts Peel Forest, 0800 251 251 Rawhiti Backpackers (BBH) 27 Hewlings St. 03 693 8252 rawhitibackpackers.co.nz/
FAIRLIE Mt Dobson Ski Area,
LAKE TEKAPO A stunning turquoise-coloured lake, 100km west of Timaru. The tiny Church of the Good Shepherd, built in 1935, frames the view beautifully. Activities include walking, watersports, fishing and skiing. Tailor-Made-Tekapo Backpackers (BBH) 9-11 Aorangi Cres. 03 680 6700, rtailor-made-backpackers@ xtra.co.nz Lake Tekapo Backpackers (VIP) SH8. 03 680 6808, email@example.com YHA Lake Tekapo 3 Simpson Lane. 03 680 6857, yha.co.nz
MT COOK Mount Cook National Park is part of a World Heritage area that forms one of the most amazing sights anywhere in New Zealand. The showcase is the majestic Mt Cook (Aoraki). NZ’s greatest climber Sir Edmund Hillary used it as a practice ground before conquering Mt Everest, but Mt Cook has claimed the lives of more than 160 people. Discuss climbing plans with park rangers before you go. Department of Conservation Visitor Information Centre Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Village, 03 435 1819 The Cook Connection Day trips to Mt Cook from Tekapo. Ph: 021 583 211, cookconnect.co.nz
MT COOK STAY Mountain Chalets (VIP) Wairepo Rd, Twizel. 03 435 0785, firstname.lastname@example.org YHA Mt Cook Cnr Bowen and Kitchener Drives. 03 435 1820, yha.co.nz
WEST COAST Rugged is the word often used when it comes to the South Island’s west coast. It’s quite an amazing place, sparsely inhabited, untouched in many areas and studded with geographical wonders. Don’t miss the two mighty glaciers, Fox and Franz Josef, or the Pancake Rocks.
KARAMEA Karamea contains pleasant walks, interesting caves and the Oparara River, a great trout fishing spot. Walk along the wonderful Fernian Track or, try the more challenging hike up Mt Stormy.
MURCHISON With crazy terrain skewed by mining and earthquakes, one of the major attractions of Murchison is its proximity to Buller Gorge, a wonderfully scenic cluster of cliffs and trees. Activities include rafting on the Gowan River and mountain biking on the Matakitaki. Buller Gorge Swingbridge Adventure and Heritage Park 03 523 9809, bullergorge.co.nz The Lazy Cow Accommodation (BBH) 37 Waller St. 03 523 9451, email@example.com
REEFTON The centrepiece of the town is Victoria Forest Park, the largest forest park in New Zealand. Reefton Visitor Centre 67 Broadway, 03 732 8391 Reefton Backpackers 64 Shiel St. 03 732 8133, firstname.lastname@example.org The Old Nurses Home (BBH) 204 Shiel St. 03 789 8881
WESTPORT Visitor Information Westport 1 Brougham St, 03 789 6658 Basils Hostel (VIP) 54 Russell St. 03 789 6410, email@example.com Beaconstone (BBH) Birds Ferry Road, Charleston. 03 715 5760 Berlins Café & Lodgings (BBH) 1205 Lower Buller Gorge, Inangahua Junction. 03 789 0295, firstname.lastname@example.org Pounamu Backpackers (BBH) Section 406, S H’way 6m Charleston. 03 789 8011, email@example.com Robyn’s Nest Hostel 42 Romilly St. 03 789 6565, firstname.lastname@example.org Swaines (BBH) Inangahua Landing Bridge, Highway 69, Inangahua Jnctn. 03 789 0226, email@example.com TripInn (BBH) 72 Queen St. 03 789 7367 The Old Slaughterhouse (BBH) Highway 67, Hector. 03 782 8333
Karamea Information Centre Bridge St, 03 782 6652
This park is home to the amazing Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. These are a series of eroded limestone rocks moulded into what appears to be a giant stack of pancakes.
Rongo (BBH) 03 782 6667, firstname.lastname@example.org
Visitor Information Punakaiki 03 731 1895
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Barrytown Knife Making 2662 Coast Road, Barrytown, 03 731 1053, barrytownknifemaking.com
PAPAROA STAY Punakaiki Beach Hostel (BBH) 4 Webb St. 03 731 1852, punakaikibeachhostel.co.nz Te Nikau Retreat (BBH, YHA) 03 731 1111, tenikauretreat.co.nz All Nations Hotel & Backpackers (VIP) SH6, Barrytown. 03 731 1812, email@example.com
GREYMOUTH The west coast’s largest town is dominated by the Grey River. Highlights include the Monteith’s brewery tour, as well as aquatic activities like rafting and canyoning. Visitor Information Herbert and Mackay Sts, 03 768 5101 TranzAlpine Scenic railway from Christchurch to Greymouth, travelling through Canterbury Plains and the Alps. Departs 9am every morning. 0800 872 467 tranzscenic.co.nz
GREYMOUTH STAY The west coast’s largest town is dominated by the Duke Backpackers (BBH) 27 Guiness St. 03 768 9470 Global Village (BBH) 42-54 Cowper St, Ph: (03) 768 7272, firstname.lastname@example.org The Hairy Lemon 128-130 Mawhera Quay, 03 768 4022, Neptunes International Backpackers (BBH) 43 Gresson St, 0800 003 768, email@example.com
the Maori to make weapons and ornaments, is the main attraction here. There’s also the Westland Water World for all things wet, the Glowworm Dell and some excellent whitewater rafting. Hokitika Visitor Info Centre Carnegie Building, corner of Hamilton & Tancred Street, 03 755 6166
HOKITIKA STAY Beach House BPs 137 Revell St, 03 755 6859 Birdsong (BBH) 124 SH6, 03 755 7179
Noahs Ark Backpackers (BBH) 16 Chapel St, 03 768 4868, firstname.lastname@example.org
Drifting Sands Backpackers (BBH) 197 Revell St, 03 755 7612, www.madkiwi.co.nz
The Ranch 37 MacDougall Ave, 03 762 7801, email@example.com
Mountain Jade Backpackers (BBH) 41 Weld St, 03 755 8007, firstname.lastname@example.org
YHA Greymouth Kainga-ra 15 Alexander St, Ph: (03) 768 4951, www.yha.co.nz
HOKITIKA Greenstone, a form of practically indestructible rock that was used by
Riverview Cabins (BBH) 154 Kaniere Rd, 03 755 7440 Stumpers Accommodation 2 Weld St, 03 755 6154, www.stumpers.co.nz
Alpine Rafts Freephone: 0800 223 456. The Just Jade Experience Design and create your own treasures with NZ jade/ greenstone. Allow at least 6-10 hours. 197 Revell St, 03 755 7612, madkiwi.co.nz
WHATAROA About 35km south of Harihari and one of the South Island’s prime fishing spots. Also the magnificent white heron (Kotuku) colony which thrillseekers can reach by jet boat.
OKARITO The tiny beach settlement of Okarito, near Franz Josef Glacier, sits at the mouth of New Zealand’s largest unmodified wetland – the Okarito Lagoon. Hike up to the Okarito Trig for excellent views. Okarito Nature Tours 03 753 4014, email@example.com Royal Hostel (BBH) The Strand, 03 753 4080, okaritohostel.com YHA Okarito Palmerston St, Whataroa, 03 753 4347, yha.co.nz
FRANZ JOSEF The glacier is about 12km long and offers a wide variety of challenging activities. To get the ultimate perspective on the magnitude of Franz Josef, head for Sentinel Rock, which gives a sweeping view over both the Waiho Valley and the mighty glacier. DOC Visitors Information Centre Westland National Park, Hwy 6, 03 752 0796
FRANZ STAY Black Sheep (VIP) SH 6, 03 752 0007 Chateau Franz (VIP, BBH) 8-10 Cron St, 0800 728 372, www.chateaufranz.co.nz Glow Worm Cottages (BBH) 27 Cron St, 0800 151 027, www.budgetaccommodation.co.nz Montrose (BBH) 9 Cron St, 03 752 0188, firstname.lastname@example.org Rainforest Retreat (VIP) Cron St, 0800 873 346 YHA Franz Josef 2-4 Cron St, 03 752 0754, www.yha.co.nz
FRANZ DO Alpine Adventure Centre Footage on a helimax screen, 03 752 0793
Albert Town Lodge (BBH) Cnr SH6 and Kingston St, Albert Town, 03 443 9487, alberttownlodge.co.nz
Franz Josef Glacier Guides Guided walks and heli-hikes on the Franz Josef Glacier 0800 484 337, franzjosefglacier.com
Holly’s Backpackers (BBH) 71 Upton St, 03 443 8187, email@example.com Mountain View Backpackers (BBH) 7 Russell St, 0800 112 201, firstname.lastname@example.org
Glacier Country Kayaks Explore the glaciers from the water 03 752 0230, glacierkayaks.com Skydive Franz At 18,000ft, they currently offer NZ’s highest skydive. 0800 458 677, skydivefranz.co.nz The Guiding Company 0800 800 102, nzguides.com
FOX GLACIER Similiar activities to Franz Josef only with fewer crowds. The best walk is up to the Welcome Flat Hot Springs. For stunning views, head up the wonderfully scenic Chalet Lookout Walk. Look out for the beautiful kea (grey-green mountain parrot). Nearby is Lake Matheson, with its stunning twin mountain reflection. DOC Visitor Centre State Hwy 6, 03 751 0807
FOX STAY Fox Glacier Inn 03 751 0088 Ivory Towers (BBH) 03 751 0838, ivorytowerslodge.co.nz
FOX DO Fox Glacier Guiding Guided walks and heli-hikes on the FoxGlacier. 0800 111 600, foxguides.co.nz Glacier Country Kayaks 20 Cron St, 0800 423 262, glacierkayaks.com
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The Purple Cow (BBH) 94 Brownston St, 03 443 1880, purplecow.co.nz
HYPNOTIC BRASS ENSEMBLE Bodega. Sat, July 21. Free. Comprised of eight brothers straight outta Chicago’s South Side, the ‘Ensemble make their return to NZ after their 2010 Womad show Wellington
Skydive NZ: Fox Glacier 0800 751 0080, skydivingnz.co.nz
HAAST PASS Running through Mt Aspiring National Park, this stretch of road is among the most scenic that you’ll come across in New Zealand, showing off pristine lakes, magnificent forests and waterfalls. DOC Centre Cnr SH 6 and Jackson Bay Rd, 03 750 0809 Haast Highway Accommodation Marks Rd, 03 750 0703 Wilderness Backpackers (BBH) Marks Rd, 03 750 029, email@example.com
SOUTHLAND The top of your chest will quickly get sore as the South Island’s jawdropping scenery becomes more prevalent. From the adrenalin thrills of Queenstown to the achingly beautiful Milford Sound, there’s
never a dull moment down south. Stop frequently, take deep breaths and enjoy one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Mt Aspiring National Park Visitor Info Centre Cnr Ballantyne Rd & Ardmore St, 03 443 8372
LAKE WANAKA The cosy town and its crystal-clear waters which reflect the dramatic landscape is the gateway to Mount Aspiring Park. The World Heritage area has magnificent tramping and mountaineering. Lake Wanaka boasts almost as many adrenalintastic activities as neighbouring Queenstown, such as mountain biking, jet-boating, canyoning, and whitewater sledging. It’s a favourite with snowboarders in winter, and has lively nightlife year-round. Boasting the most sceneray from those films with wizards and hairyfooted hobbits, there are great Lord of the Rings tours, too. Lake Wanaka Visitors Centre The Log Cabin, Lakefront, 100 Ardmore Street. 03 4431 1233
Wanaka Bakpaka (BBH) 117 Lakeside Rd, 03 443 7837, firstname.lastname@example.org YHA Wanaka 181 Upton St, 03 443 7405, yha.co.nz
WANAKA DO Adventure Consultants Mountaineering instruction courses and guided ascents, 03 443 8711, adventure.co.nz
Treble Cone Ski Field 03 443 7443, treblecone.co.nz Wanaka Rock Climbing One, three and five-day rock climbing courses for everyone. 03 443 6411, wanakarock.co.nz Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise from Wanaka, 03 443-8787, flightseeing.co.nz Wanaka Sightseeing Includes Lord of the Rings tours, 2 Anderson Rd, 03 338 0982, wanakasightseeing.co.nz
LAKE HAWEA Thirty-five kilometres long and more than 400m deep, Lake Hawea is a great source of salmon and rainbow trout.
Paradise for the energetic traveller, Queenstown is one of the world’s most action-packed towns. The Aspiring Guides town, which is surprisingly small Guided mountain climbing and compared to its big reputation, is ice climbing instruction courses, located on Lake Wakatipu and rises 03 443 9422, up to the peaks of the aptly-named aspiringguides.com Remarkables (which you can ski in winter). In winter, the town is a Classic Flights centre for nearby skifields and in Vintage Tiger Moth flights over summer adventure activities and Lake Wanaka. 03 443 4043, tramping take over. There’s also a classicflights.co.nz hectic social scene which extends well into the wee small hours. Deep Canyon Canyoning in the Matukituki Valley. Adventure Wanaka, 23 Dunmore St, Wanaka. 03 443 7922, deepcanyon.co.nz Frogz Have More Fun Sledge down either the Clutha, Hawea or Kawarau Rivers. 0800 437 649, frogz.co.nz The Silver Demon Aerobatic flights. 03 443 4043, silverdemon.co.nz Skydive Lake Wanaka Freefall from 12,000 or 15,000ft with views of NZ’s highest mountains. 0800 786 877, skydivenz.com
Info & Track Walking Centre 37 Shotover St, 03 442 9708 Queenstown Travel & Visitor Centre Corner of Shotover & Camp Sts, 03 442 4100
Q’TOWN STAY Alpine Lodge (BBH) 13 Gorge Rd. 03 442 7220, email@example.com Aspen Lodge (BBH) 11 Gorge Rd. 03 442 9671, aspenlodge.co.nz Base Discovery Lodge Queenstown 49 Shotover St. 03
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441 1185, stayatbase.com Black Sheep Lodge (BBH/VIP) 13 Frankton Rd. 03 442 7289, blacksheepbackpackers.co.nz
inexpensive double and twin rooms, dorm beds and selfcontained family cabins. 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 746 396, 03 442 8273, pinewood.co.nz
a must. To really appreciate the beauty of the region, take a scenic flight, or even jump out the plane. AJ Hackett Bungy Queenstown Jump off one or all of New Zealand’s most well-known sites. Nevis Highwire Bungy, the highest in New Zealand – 134m above the Nevis River. The Kawarau Bridge, the world’s first bungy – 43m above the Kawarau River. The 47m Ledge, 400m above the town which you can jump day or night. Access is by Skyline Gondola. 0800 286 4958 bungy.co.nz
tandemparagliding.com Haka Adventure Snow Tours 03 980 4250, hakatours.com Mad Dog River Boarding River sledging & other actionpacked water activities, 03 442 7797, riverboarding.co.nz
Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286, bungibackpackers.co.nz
Resort Lodge (BBH) 6 Henry St. 03 442 4970, resortlodge.co.nz
Butterfli Lodge (BBH) 62 Thompson St. 03 442 6367, butterfli.co.nz
Scallywags Traveller’s Guesthouse (BBH) 27 Lomond Crescent. 03 442 7083
Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. 03 443 7341, cardrona.com
Southern Laughter (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 728 448, southernlaughter.co.nz
Deco Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 52 Man St. 03 442 7384, decobackpackers.co.nz
The Last Resort (BBH) 6 Memorial St. 03 442 4320, firstname.lastname@example.org
Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. 03 442 5494, email@example.com
Thomas’s Hotel & BPs (VIP) 50 Beach St. 03 442 7180
Awesome Foursome Bungy (Nevis – 134m), jetboat, helicopter, whitewater rafting, 03 442 7318
YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street. 03 442 7400, yha.co.nz
Dart River Safaris Jetboating wilderness tours, 0800 327 8538, dartriver.co.nz
YHA Queenstown Lakefront 88-90 Lake Esplanade. 03 442 8413, yha.co.nz
Fat Tyre Adventure Mountain biking/heli biking, 0800 328 897, fat-tyre.co.nz
NZ Ski.com Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt, nzski.com
Fergburger Best burgers in NZ. Shotover St, 03 441 1232
Queenstown Rafting Raft the Shotiver, Kawarau and Landsborough rivers. 35 Shotover St. 03 442 9792 rafting.co.nz
Hippo Lodge (BBH) 4 Anderson Hts. 03 442 5785, hippolodge.co.nz Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. 03 441 3922, nomadshostels.com Pinewood Lodge (VIP) Queenstown’s best value accommodation. We offer an excellent variety of accommodation, everything from deluxe en-suite rooms with private bathroom amenities,
Q’TOWN DO There are hundreds of activities to keep you occupied in Queenstown. Bungy, jetboating and rafting are all experiences not to be missed, and in winter, skiing the Remarkables is
Flight Park Tandem Paragliding Operates from Coronet Peak 0800 467 325,
Milford Sound Flightseeing Scenic flights to Milford Sound, 0800 65 65 01, realjourneys.co.nz Nevis Snowmobile Safaris Helicopter ride & snowmobile adventure, 03 442 4250, snowmobilenz.com NZONE Skydive Skydive from 15,000ft. 35 Shotover St, 03 442 5867, nzone.biz
Doubtful Sound & Milford Sound daytime and overnight cruises. Te Anau glow-worm cave excursions. TSS Earnslaw vintage steamship cruises and Walter Peak High Country Farm. 0800 65 65 01, realjourneys.co.nz Shotover Canyon Swing Jump or be released 109m off the world’s highest cliff jump. 0800 279 464, canyonswing.co.nz Shotover Jet Jetboat ride. 0800 746 868 shotoverjet.com Sky Trek Hang Gliding 03 442 9551, skytrek.co.nz Vertigo Mountain Biking Heli-bike and gondola downhill. 0800 837 8446, vertigobikes.co.nz
GLENORCHY Just out of Queenstown is Glenorchy (or “Isengard”) which has some of the best walks in the area, including the Greenstone and Caples tracks.
Real Journeys Visitor Centre
Department of Conservation Beech St, 03 442 7933 Glenorchy Backpackers Retreat (VIP) Cnr Mull and Argyle Streets, Glenorchy, Ph: (03) 442 9902
WANAKA Wonderful Wanaka is the first big town you come to if you’re driving north, towards Haast Pass, from the South Island adrenalin capital Queenstown. And just like its bigger neighbour, Wanaka can also boast a disturbing array of adrenalin activities as well as a truly stunning Southern Alps backdrop. Lake Wanaka and nearby Mt Aspiring National Park provide an outdoor adventure playground par excellence. You can fish, waterski, windsurf, go canyoning, jet boating, rock climb, enjoy long hikes, climb mountains, tandem skydive, kayaking, rafting, horse trekking etc. In winter, Wanaka becomes a ski town, serving Treble Cone and Cardrona fields. Indeed, National Geographic has just named Wanaka one of the top 25 snow towns in the world, the only Southern Hemisphere inclusion on the list.
SOUTHISLAND Kinloch Lodge (BBH) 862 Kinloch Rd, 03 442 4900, kinlochlodge.co.nz
ARROWTOWN Poplar Lodge (BBH) 4 Merioneth St, 03 442 1466, firstname.lastname@example.org Riverdown Guesthouse (BBH) 7 Bedford St, 03 409 8499
Flights to Queenstown, Milford and Mt Cook, 03 249 7505 Real Journeys Coaches to Milford Sound, 0800 656 503 Scenic Shuttle Daily between Te Anau and Invercargill in summer months, twice weekly in winter. Connects with the Catlins Coaster from Invercargill to Dunedin 0800 277 483
Home to the second largest lake in NZ, Te Anau is a beautiful little town, a good jumping off point for the World Heritage Fiordland National Park. The park is the largest in New Zealand and offers some spectacular sightseeing. The Milford Track is one of the most famous in the world, but often booked out. The Routeburn, ReesDart and Kepler are ace alternatives. doc.govt.nz
Top Line Tours Coach to and from Te Anau and Queenstown, 03 249 8059
Fiordland I-site Visitor Centre Lakefront Drive, Te Anau, 03 249 8900
Bob & Maxines (BBH) 20 Paton Place, 03 931 3161, email@example.com
Department of Conservation 03 249 8514 Te Anau Glowworm Caves realjourneys.co.nz Air Fiordland
TE ANAU STAY Barnyard Backpackers (BBH) 80 Mt York Rd, Rainbow Downs, 03 249 8006, firstname.lastname@example.org
Grumpy’s Backpackers Te Anau-Milford Sound Highway, 03 249 8133, email@example.com Rosies Backpacker Homestay (BBH) 23 Tom Plato Drive,
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03 249 8431, firstname.lastname@example.org
cruises. 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz
Steamers Beach Backpackers (BBH) 77 Manapouri Rd, 03 249 7457, teanau.info
Milford Track Day Walk Lake cruise and guided walk, 0800 656 501
Te Anau Lakefront Backpackers (BBH) 48 Lakefront Dr, 03 249 7713, teanaubackpackers.co.nz
Rosco’s Milford Sound Sea Kayaks 0800 476 726, roscosmilfordkayaks
YHA Te Anau 29 Mokonui St, 03 249 7847, yha.co.nz
TE ANAU DO Adventure Fiordland 72 Town Centre, 03 249 8500 Fiordland Ecology Holidays 3-10 day cruises, all Southern Fiords. Mammal watching permit, 0800 249 660, fiordland.gen.nz High Ride Adventures Quad riding and scenic horse trekking. 03 249 8591, highride.co.nz Luxmore Jet Jetboating on the Waiau River, 0800 253 826, luxmorejet.co.nz Real Journeys Doubtful Sound daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises. Milford Sound daytime, overnight scenic, nature and small boat
Skydive Fiordland Dive 44 Caswell Rd, Te Anau, 0800 829254, tawakidive.co.nz
world. Much of the action in the Milford Sound takes place on the water and the best way to appreciate the beauty on show is on a cruise or kayak. Bottlenose dolphins, New Zealand fur seals and Fiordland crested penguins all hang out there. Milford Sound Lodge (BBH) 03 249 8071, email@example.com
Tracknet 03 249 7737, firstname.lastname@example.org
Real Journeys 0800 656 501, email@example.com
ANAU TO MILFORD
Great Sights On and under the water, 03 442 9445
The distance between Te Anau and Milford Sound may be 119km but the breathtaking scenery along the way makes the journey extremely enjoyable. Along the road watch out for the Mirror Lakes and the disappearing mountain. Another highlight is the 1.2km rough-hewn Homer Tunnel. It’s pitch black, having no lighting plus it’s pretty darn steep – a thrilling experience for those afraid of the dark.
MILFORD SOUND Green, wet and breathtakingly beautiful, Milford Sound is one of the most picturesque sights in the
Kiwi Reel Rifle Guided fishing & hunting. Kayaking on Lakes Te Anau, Manapouri and Milford Sound. Rental kayaks and mountain bikes, 03 249 9071 Milford Sound Underwater Observatory Discover a coral reef beneath Milford Sound, 03 249 9442 Milford Sound Cruise & Observatory Visit 0800 656 501 Milford Wanderer Cruises
WORD FROM THE STREET
Pieter Maes, Belgium
GET YOUR OWN WHEELS Whether it’s a campervan, car or even a bike, try to get your own transport for at least part of your Kiwi travels. There are few countries in the world that are so consistently stunning, safe and sparsely populated, so take advantage of the situation to get a bit of freedom and explore it for yourself, in your own time. You won’t regret it.
HI PIETER. WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN IN NZ? A loop around the South Island FAVOURITE DAY SPOT? Climbing Franz-Joseph was an amazing, physical challenging experience; the landscape however definitely made the effort worthwhile. WHAT ABOUT NIGHT SPOT? Drinking some beers with my mates having a perfect view on Queenstown.
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Day and overnight options with kayaking, etc. Coach connections, 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz Tawaki Dive See Fiordland’s unique marine life on a day-trip with two guided dives in Milford Sound. Rental gear available, max four divers. 0800 829254, tawakidive.co.nz TSS Earnslaw & Walter Peak Farm tours, barbecue lunches, horse treks and cycling. realjourneys.co.nz Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise, 0800 105 105, flightseeing.co.nz
MANAPOURI Manapouri is the proud owner of arguably New Zealand’s most beautiful stretch of water. This is where the boat trip on Doubtful Sound leaves from – most start the trip in Queenstown or Te Anau. From the boat you may see seals and possibly dolphins and penguins.
Invercargill I-site Visitors Centre 108 Gala St, 03 214 6243
Point in Southland to Nugget Point in Otago. The best bit about the Catlins is the abundance of wildlife.
Dept of Conservation Office Don St, 03 214 4589
Catlins Community Info Centre 3 Main Rd, Owaka, South Otago, 03 415 8371, firstname.lastname@example.org
Catlins Coaster Invercargill to Dunedin via the Catlins with many stops to the main natural attractions and wildlife encounters. Farmstay options are available, 0800 304333, catlinscoaster.co.nz Stewart Island Flights Flights to Stewart Island, 03 218 9129, email@example.com
INVERCARG STAY Kackling Kea Backpackers (BBH) 225 Tweed St, 03 214 7950 Southern Comfort (BBH) 30 Thompson St, 03 218 3838
Adventure Charters and Hires 03 249 6626
Tuatara Lodge (VIP) 30 Dee St, 03 214 0956, tuataralodge.co.nz
Real Journeys 0800 656 502
MANAPOURI STAY Freestone Backpackers (BBH) 270 Hillside Rd, 03 249 6893, firstname.lastname@example.org Manapouri Lakeview Backpackers (VIP) 68 Cathedral Drive, 03 249 6652, email@example.com Possum Lodge (BBH) 13 Murrel Ave, 03 249 6623.
DOUBTFUL SOUND If you’re not one for crowds, an alternative Fiordland option is Doubtful Sound – the deepest of the fiords, made up of 100km of waterways. Where Milford is all pointy peaks and endless cascading falls, Doubtful is rounded mountains – a serene sanctuary, inhabited by loads of interesting critters. Real Journeys Daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises. 0800 656 502 Fiordland Navigator Pearl Harbour, Manapouri 03 249 6602, yha.co.nz Deep Cove Hostel Doubtful Sound, 03 249 7713, hostel.co.nz
INVERCARGILL The southernmost city in New Zealand, Invercargill is a farmingorientated community with a pleasant collection of parks and museums to keep you busy.
The beautiful road west of Invercargill towards Fiordland is known as the Southern Scenic Route. The Dubliner (BBH) 105 Tiverton St, Palmerston, 03 465 1896, firstname.lastname@example.org Dustez Bak Paka’s (BBH) 15 Colac Bay Rd, Riverton, 03 234-8399 email@example.com The Globe Backpackers (VIP) 144 Palmerston St, Riverton, 03 234 8527, firstname.lastname@example.org Harbison Backpackers (BBH) 5 Harbison St, Otautau, 03 225 8715, email@example.com Shooters Backpackers 73 Main St, Tuatapere, 03 226 6250
GORE Gore spans the Mataura river and boasts some lovely scenery in the Hokonui Hills and the Country and Western festival each June. Old Fire Station Backpackers (BBH) 19 Hokonui Dr, 03 208 1925, firstname.lastname@example.org Anglem House 20 Miro Crescent, 03 219 1552, yha.co.nz
THE CATLINS The beautiful Catlins is a sprawling mass of bush, forest and rivers, stretching all the way from Waipapa
Elm Lodge Wildlife Tours Two-day camping trips, 0800 356 563, elmwildlifetours.co.nz
252 Harrington Point Rd, Portobello, 03 478 0330, email@example.com Chalet Backpackers (BBH) 296 High St, 03 479 2075 Dunedin Central Backpackers (BBH) 243 Moray Pl, 03 477 9985, firstname.lastname@example.org The Jolly Poacher (BBH) 74 Elm Row, 03 477 3384
Blowhole Backpackers (BBH) 24 Main Rd, Owaka, 03 415 5635, email@example.com
Hogwartz (BBH) 277 Rattray St, 03 474 1487, firstname.lastname@example.org
Curio Bay Backpacker Accommodation (BBH) 501 Curio Bay Rd, 03 246 8797.
The Jolly Poacher (BBH) 54 Arthur St, 03 477 3384, email@example.com
The Falls Backpackers (BBH) Purakaunui Falls Rd, Owaka, 03 415 8724, firstname.lastname@example.org Fernlea Backpackers (VIP) Moana St, Kaka Point, 03 412 8834 The Split Level (BBH) 9 Waikawa Rd, Owaka, 03 415 8304, email@example.com Surat Bay Lodge (BBH) Surat Bay Rd, New Haven, 03 415 8099, www.suratbay.co.nz/ Penguin Paradise Holiday Lodge (BBH) 612 Waikawa-Niagara Rd, Waikawa Village South Catlins, 03 2468 552, firstname.lastname@example.org Thomas Catlins Lodge & Holiday Park, 03 415 8333, yha.co.nz Wright’s Mill Lodge (BBH) 865 Tahakopa Valley Rd, 03 204 8424 catlinsaccommodation.co.nz
DUNEDIN Dunedin is Celtic for “Edinburgh” and many Scottish principles endure here. One thing the locals do much better than their Scots ancestors is play rugby, so if there’s a game on at Carisbrook (the “House of Pain”) while you’re in town, beg, borrow or steal to get yourself there. Dunedin Visitor Centre 48 The Octagon, 03 474 3300 Dept of Conservation Office 77 Stuart St, 03 477 0677 Penguin Patch 9 the Octagon, 03 471 8571, Email: email@example.com
DUNEDIN STAY The Asylum Lodge (BBH) 36 Russell Rd, Seacliff, 03 465 8123 Bus Stop backpackers (BBH)
03 489 4113, dropzone.com Sinclair Wetlands and Educational Centre Freedom or conducted walks over 5km of walkways. Backpacker and camping facilities. Rapid no 854 Clarendon/Berwick Rd (signposted on SH1 30km south of Dunedin), 03 486 2654 Speights Brewery Heritage Tours 03 477 7697, speights.co.nz Royal Albatross Centre 03 478 0499, albatross.org.nz
Kiwis Nest (BBH)597 George St, 03 471 9540. Leviathan Heritage Hotel 27 Queens Gardens, 0800 773 773, firstname.lastname@example.org Manor House (BBH) 28 Manor Place, 03 477 0484, manorhousebackpackers.co.nz
The Otago Peninsula is a beautiful stretch of rugged coast, home to a fascinating collection of rare and native birds such as the albatross and yellow-eyed penguin. Billy Browns (BBH) 423 Aramoana Rd, Port Chalmers, 03 472 8323, email@example.com McFarmers Backpackers (BBH) 774 Portobello Rd, Portobello, 02 5206 0640, mcfarmersbackpackers @hotmail.com
On Top Backpackers (BBH) 12 Filleul St, cnr Moray Pl, 03 477 6121. Pennys Backpackers (BBH) 6 Stafford St, 03 477 6027, firstname.lastname@example.org
Queens Garden Backpackers (VIP) 42 Queens Garden, 03 479 2175, email@example.com Ramsay Lodge (BBH) 60 Stafford St, 03 477 6313, firstname.lastname@example.org YHA Dunedin, Stafford Gables 71 Stafford St, 03 474 1919, yha.co.nz
DUNEDIN DO Baldwin Street In the Guinness Book of Records as the steepest street in the world. Cadbury World 280 Cumberland St, 0800 223 2879, cadbury.co.nz Cosmic Corner Funk Store Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff about where to go for parties, events and the beautiful parts of New Zealand. 355 George St, 03 479 2949
Historic Fort Taiaroa An underground complex built in the 1880s, this fortified stronghold has been inhabited since earliest Maori settlement of the area. Tours available at the Visitor Centre. Fletcher House, Broad Bay, 03 478 0180 Larnach Castle Australasia’s only castle. The architecture is amazing and the intricate details (including a foyer ceiling that took nearly seven years to build) are breathtaking. NZ Marine Studies Centre and Aquarium Run by the University of Otago, the Portobello Aquarium and Marine Biology Centre (near Quarantine Point) is a refuge for a diverse collection of fish and reptile life. 03 479 5826 Elm Wildlife Tours 0800 356 563, elmwildlifetours.co.nz
Dunedin Public Art Gallery 30 The Octagon, 03 474 3240, email@example.com Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony View blue penguins just metres away every evening at dusk. Waterfront Rd, 1-1/2 hrs north of Dunedin, 03 433 1195, penguins.co.nz Parachute Experience Skydiving from a great height
Taiaroa Head is the place to see the albatross colony, the only mainland colony in the world inside the bounds of a city.
ALEXANDRIA Alexandra and Roxburgh are the two main towns for fruit-picking work in the Central Otago region.
ONWARDSFIJI NADI & WEST Aquarius Pacific Hotel +679 672 6000 Beach Escape Villas +679 672 4442, beachscape@ connect.com.fj Cathay Hotel +679 666 0566, fiji4less.com Horizon Beach Resort +679 672 2832, horizonbeachfiji.com Nadi Bay Resort Hotel +679 672 3599, fijinadibayhotel.com Nadi Down Town Backpackers Inn +679 670 0600, firstname.lastname@example.org Nadi Hotel +679 670 0000, email@example.com
Coconut Bay Resort +679 666 6644 firstname.lastname@example.org Korovou Eco Tour Resort +679 666 6644 email@example.com Kuata Resort +679 666 6644 Long Beach Backpackers Resort +679 666 6644 Manta Ray Island +679 672 6351 firstname.lastname@example.org Nabua Lodge +679 666 9173 email@example.com Oarsmans Bay Lodge +679 672 2921 firstname.lastname@example.org
Nomads Skylodge Hotel +679 672 2200
Octopus Resort +679 666 6337 email@example.com
Saweni Beach Apartment Hotel +679 666 1777, fiji4less.com
Sunrise Lagoon Resort +679 666 6644
Smugglers Cove Beach Resort +679 672 6578, smugglers beachfiji.com
Wayalailai Island Resort +679 672 1377 firstname.lastname@example.org
Travellers Beach Resort +679 672 3322, email@example.com
White Sandy Beach Dive Resort +679 666 4066
YASAWA ISLANDS Awesome Adventures Fiji +679 675 0499, awesomefiji.com
MAMANUCA ISL Beachcomber Island Resort +679 666 1500, beachcomberfiji.com
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BOOK NOW! Bounty Island Resort +679 666 6999, fiji-bounty.com Rau Kini’s Hostel +679 672 1959, firstname.lastname@example.org The Funky Fish Beach Resort +679 628 2333, funkyfishresort.com The Resort Walu Beach +679 665 1777, walubeach.com
CORAL COAST Beachouse +679 653 0500, fijibeachouse.com Mango Bay Resort +679 653 00690, mangobayresortfiji.com Pacific Safaris Club +679 345 0498, email@example.com Rendezvous Dive Resort +679 628 4427, surfdivefiji.com Robinson Crusoe +679 629 1999, robinsoncrusoeislandfiji.com Seashell Cove Resort +679 670 6100, seashellresort.com Tabukula Beach Bungalows +679 650 0097, fiji4less.com The Uprising Beach Resort +679 345 2200, uprisingbeachresort.com
Tsulu Luxury Backpackers & Apartments +679 345 0065, tsulu.com Vakaviti Motel & Dorm +679 650 0526, firstname.lastname@example.org Vilisite Place +679 650 1030
Morrison’s Beach Cottagess +679 669 4516, email@example.com Safari Lodge Fijis +679 669 3333 safarilodge.com.fj Volivoli Beach Resort +679 669 4511, volivoli.com
Colonial Lodge +679 92 75248, firstname.lastname@example.org
Bayside Backpacker Cottage +679 885 3154, email@example.com
Lami Lodge Backpackers +679 336 2240, firstname.lastname@example.org
Hidden Paradise Guest House +678 885 0106
Leleuvia Island Resort +679 331 9567, eleen@leleuvia. com
Naveria Heights Lodge +679 851 0157, email@example.com
Raintree Lodge +679 332 0562, raintreelodge.com
Savusavu Hot Springs +679 885 0195, firstname.lastname@example.org
Royal Hotel +679 344 0024 email@example.com South Seas Private Hotel +679 331 2296, fiji4less.com Tailevu Hotel +679 343 0028
NORTH VITI LEVU Bethams Cottage +679 669 4132, bethams.com.fj Macdonalds Beach Cottages +679 669 4633
TAVEUNI Albert’s Sunrise +679 333 7555 Matava Resort +679 330 5222, matava.com Reece’s Place +679 362 6319 Waisalima Beach Resort +679 738 9236, waisalima.com
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
Fiji’s main budget backpacker properties are situated in the Yasawa Islands, north-west of Nadi. Some 24 properties operate over 20 rugged islands, with crystal blue lagoons and great beaches. The islands are serviced daily by the Yasawa Flyer, a large and fast catamaran. However, make sure you ring ahead to book before jumping on the boat.
Photo: Tourism Fiji
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SYDNEY STAY Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD. 02 9267 7718, stayatbase.com
Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697, exfordhotel.com.au
Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100, flindersbackpackers.com.au
Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9267 7718, bighostel.com Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD. 02 9281 2222, bouncehotel.com.au
Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500, habitathq.com.au
City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333, cityresort.com.au The Furnished Property Group 02 8669 3678, furnishedproperty.com.au Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. 02 9218 9000 www.yha.com.au Sydney Harbour YHA 110 Cumberland Street. The Rocks. 02 9261 1111, yha.com.au Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. 1800 013 186 nomadshostels.com Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross. 02 8354 0488, boomerangbackpackers.com Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213 dluxbudgethotel.com.au Kangaroo Bak Pak 665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills. 02 9261 1111 Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach. 02 9918 9709, avalonbeach.com.au Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street. Tamarama. 02 9365 2088, yha.com.au
Riverside Theatre. August 6. $78.10 The red haired man of the minute blends acoustic music, folk and hip hop and has earned fans across the world. Catch him in Perth.
Perth Convention Centre Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411 manlybackpackers.com.au Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371 sydneyboardinghouse.com
BRISBANE STAY Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711, aussiewaybackpackers.com Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace. 07 3367 1157, bananabenders.com Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000, stayatbase.com Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433, stayatbase.com Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452, brisbanebackpackers.com.au
Lochner’s Guesthouse 8 Gowrae Ave. Bondi. 02 9387 2162,
Brisbane City Apartments 1800 110 443, brisbanecityapartments.com
Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee. 04 0817 6634, aegeancoogee.com.au
Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, citybackpackers.com
Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee. 02 9315 7888, surfsidebackpackers.com.au Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. 02 9692 8418, yha.com.au Boardrider Backpacker Rear 63, The Corso, Manly. 02 9977 3411 boardrider.com.au The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly. 1800 657 122, bunkhouse.com.au
Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212, homemansion.com.au
Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi. 02 9130 5063, lamrocklodge.com
Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511, sydneybeachside.com.au
Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St. 08 8981 5385, yha.com.au
The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane. 1800 249 207, greenhousebackpacker.com.au
Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505, easygobackpackers.com.au
Brisbane City YHA 392 Upper Roma St 07 3236 1947, yha.com.au Chill Backpackers 328 Upper Roma St. 1800 851 875, chillbackpackers.com Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, Fortitude Valley. 1800 682 865, bunkbrisbane.com.au The Deck Budget Accommodation 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm. 04 3377 7061 Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George and Herschel Sts. 1800 446 646, tinbilly.com
CAIRNS STAY Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, bohemiacentral.com.au Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353, bohemiaresort.com.au Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628, calypsobackpackers.com.au Dreamtime Travellers Rest 189 Bunda St. 1800 058 440, dreamtimehostel.com Gilligans Backpackers and Hotel Resort 57-89 Grafton St. 1800 556 995, gilligans.com.au
Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda. 1800 008 718, hometravellersmotel.com.au Hotel Bakpak Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 1800 645 200, hotelbakpak.com Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. 03 9621 2523, yha.com.au Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. 1800 447 762, nomadshostels.com
Urban Central 334 City Rd, Southbank. 1800 631 288, urbancentral.com.au
Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553, emperorscrown.com.au
Nomads Cairns 341 Lake St. 1800 737 736, nomadshostels.com
Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080, globebackpackers.com.au
Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond. 03 9427 9826, centralaccommodation.net
Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302, youthshack.com.au
HOBART STAY Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St. 1800 811 507, centralbackpackers.com.au Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, hobarthostel.com
Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977, thepickledfrog.com
Nomads Beach House 2 39 Sheridan St. 1800 229 228, nomadshostels.com
Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda. 1800 242 273, stayatbase.com
Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437, momdarwin.com
Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801, narrarabackpackers.com
Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge. 08 9227 6000, perthbrittania.com
Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250, geckolodge.com.au
The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108, hotelspencer.com
NJOY Travellers Resort 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055, njoy.net.au
All Nations Backpackers Hotel & Bar 2 Spencer St. 1800 222 238, allnations.com.au
Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686, frogs-hollow.com.au
Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. 03 6231 2660, yha.com.au
Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720, billabongresort.com.au
Northern Greenhouse 117 Grafton St. 1800 000 541, northerngreenhouse.com.au
Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365, elkesbackpackers.com.au
Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611, spacehotel.com.au
JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642, jjsbackpackers.com
Nomads Esplanade 93 The Esplanade. 1800 175 716, nomadshostels.com
DARWIN STAY Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644, banyanviewlodge.com.au
Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111, oceanbeachbackpackers.com.au One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge. 1800 188 100, oneworldbackpackers.com.au Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. 08 9287 3333, yha.com.au The Old Swan Barracks 6 Francis St. 08 9428 0000, theoldswanbarracks.com Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge. 08 9228 3755, undergroundbackpackers.com.au The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228, witchshat.com
Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400, transitbackpackers.com
ADELAIDE STAY Adelaide Oval Home to the Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25, adpi.com.au Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. 08 8414 3010, yha.com.au Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753, adelaidebackpackers.com.au Annie’s Place 239 Franklin St. 1800 818 011, anniesplace.com.au Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, backpackoz.com.au Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295, bluegalah.com.au Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, glenelgbeachhostel.com.au Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, hostel109.com My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, adelaidehostel.com.au Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889, shakeys.com.au
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MYTHBUSTERS TASMAN OR COOK?
THIS WEEK’S QUIZ
THE LORD OF THE RINGS What is the name of the LOTR Q 6.prequel currently in production?
a) Auckland b) Wellington c) Masterton d) Matamata 2. How many Oscars did LOTR win? Q a) 4 b) 6 c) 2 d) 5
a) My Precious b) Mr Baggins c) The Hobbit d) The Lord Of The Things
3. Which NZ town was director Peter Jackson born in? a) Pukerua Bay b) Bay of Plenty c) Pukekohe d) Poverty Bay
Q 4. How many days did it take to film LOTR in New Zealand? a) 472 b) 247 c) 274 d) 742
did Wellington rename itself Q 8.forWhat the release of LOTR? a) Mordor b) Rivendell c) Hobbiton d) Middle Earth
Q 9. In which year was Jackson’s LOTR
Q 5. Which actor played Frodo in LOTR? a) Sean Astin b) Elijah Wood c) Billy Boyd d) Ian McKellen
released? a) 2002 b) 2000 c) 2001 d) 2005
ANSWERS: 1. d 2. a 3. a 4. c 5. b 6. c 7. a 8. d 9. c
becomes king of Rohan? Q 7.a)Who Aragorn b) Gandalf
This is a very intimate form of traditional Maori greeting. One person presses their nose to another’s. However, it’s probably a good idea to know the person before you get in their face.
OF THE MONTH
Who actually discovered NZ? It is widely accepted that Dutch explorer Abel Tasman was the first European to set eyes on New Zealand. He sighted the land of the long white cloud in 1642 but never set foot on it due to an altercation with the locals. Over 100 years later, Lieutenant James Cook (who discovered Australia), circumnavigated and anchored at Poverty Bay on the North Island. It is hotly debated – mostly between Aussies and Kiwis – that whoever set foot on the land first can claim discovering it. In that case it was option C: the Polynesian tribes were the first to inhabit New Zealand, hundreds of years earlier.
THIS TIME IT’S... NZ REGIONS 1. BY OF PENALTY 2. WELL NOTING 3. HOMO BURGLAR 4. NEARBY CURT ANSWERS: 1. Bay of Plenty 2. Wellington 3. Marlborough 4. Canterbury
Which NZ town was the fictional Q 1.Hobbiton created near?
Tongariro National Park, New Zealand