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23 September - 6 October 2013 Issue 731



the Big Chill All the beauty of Antarctica

Around the world in Oz From Chinatown to Little Italy, TNT goes exploring

al v o r p p a f o L A E SA’s S

rings e to Alice Sp id la e d A m o Oz, fr trip through d a ro th o m s on a mam TNT embark + news & sport what’s on

film reviews travellers’ tIPS

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Choose your island Tasmania and New Zealand on sale!

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Bay of Fire s - Tassie

Ta sm


er laci f G e s o J



New Zealand

an i a

Take 10% OFF* Book now! 1300 654 604 Offer Terms and conditions: Selected tours only. Quote discount code 10693 to claim discount. Offer valid for bookings made between SEP 1 to SEP 30 2013. Valid on travel between SEP 1 2013 to March 31 2014. Not valid with any other offer or discount. Discount applicable only to tour codes listed: NTW06, NTE03, NTE03H, NTW03, NTW03H, PTOAC, PTOS, PTOA. All prices and tours are subject to change without notice and are subject to availability. Please visit ‘conditions of travel and cancellation policy’ for full terms and conditions. Untitled-1 1 TNT195x270_September_Tas-NZ.indd 1

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andrew westbrook acting EDITOR

EDITOR’S LETTER A big part of travel is experiencing the extremes of life, from adrenalin sports to scenic stunners and from meeting a veritable UN of fellow wanderers, to going out on your lonesone. That’s why this week we’re all excited about two of our all-time fave places, which couldn’t be more different if they tried – the dusty red outback and the deep blues of Antarctica. We love ‘em, and think you will too.

THIS issue oz Diary


Food + drink










Film18 News20 Sport22 Opinion


rugby 7s feature




Hot Shots





listings Australia52 listings new zealand70 work72 trivial pursuits



Features Razzle Dazzle


The Gold Coast 7s will involve drama and excitement both on and off the pitch

Worlds in worlds


We take a look at ten of Australia’s best ‘little worlds’ – Chinatown included

Up the middle


We explore Australia’s rugged interior, from Adelaide up to Alice Springs

Ice, Ice baby


Penguins, seals, huge whales and miles upon miles of ice – Antarctica is amazing



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ozDIARY Editorial Group editor Carol Driver Acting editor Andrew Westbrook Deputy Editor Hugh Radojev Contributors Jahn Vannisselroy | Stephanie Williams | Alasdair Morton | Caroline Garner Interns Rory Platt | Emma Sabjan | Tash Levy

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We could do that if we wanted to...

Design and production Design and production manager Lisa Ferron Sales Account manager Justin Steinlauf Marketing and events executive Georgina Pengelly marketing & events Business development manager Tom Wheeler distribution Lee Sutherland accounts Suzanne Welsh

tnt MULTIMEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Publisher TNT Multimedia Limited Printed by Rural Press News AAP Pictures Getty Images | Thinkstock | AAP | TNT Images | Tourism Australia | Tourism Victoria | Tourism New South Wales | Tourism NT | Tourism Queensland | Tourism Tasmania | South Australia Tourism | Tourism Western Australia | Tourism New Zealand | Tourism Fiji |

TNT Magazine , 126 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW 2008 General enquiries Phone 02 8332 7500 Fax 02 9690 1314 Email sales enquiries Phone 02 8332 7511 Email Where to get TNT

See for pick-up points

main event Melbourne Fringe Festival City of Melbourne

Like any of the best worldwide fringe festivals, Melbourne’s offers local and international artists, comedians, musicians and other performers the chance to hone and then share their craft with the public. As an ‘open access’ and ‘multi-arts festival’ the Melbourne Fringe actively seeks to encourage creative diversity in not only its performers but also in the make up of its audiences. Some of the most interesting performances look to be the new play All War Is Deception, The ArtsBurst Pop-up Festival and many, many more. 18 September–6 October, Melbourne

Brisbane Festival 2013

Coffs Harbour busking festival

Project-Five Volume Five

This year’s installment of the wonderful Brisbane Festival is coming into its last week and, they’ve saved some of the best acts until last. Check out the sensual cabaret of La Soiree, a world premiere stage adaption of The Wizard Of Oz and more.

The beautiful regional centre of Coffs Harbour will come alive to celebrate the beginning of spring. Buskers and comedians alike will take to the streets, clubs and bars of the town to entertain the punters and, quite probably themselves.

Art needn’t just be hung in museums or dusty studios. Programs like Project-Five prove this, by bringing art and music to the people. Live exhibitions, events and workshops will be held in Sydney’s Darling Quarter throughout September and October.

7–28 September Brisbane, Queensland

21–29 September Coffs Harbour, NSW

20 September–17 October Darling Quarter, Sydney





Image: Getty

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers. Registered by Australia Post.

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HOT DEAL Brisbane or Cairns to Sydney from $1 per day. Some deals include a free fuel allowance!

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eats + drinks Helm Bar


Restaurant review by Hugh Radojev

This nautical themed bar and restaurant is a popular night spot with the local well-heeled business men and women who flock down to the waterfront after their working day is done. On the top deck at night when the lights from the buildings in Pyrmont shine brightly off the water, it isn’t hard to imagine that you’re staring out to sea off the deck of a ship. The abundance of navy memorabilia, timber decking and rope also help to complete the boating theme. The grub My friend and I started off with the antipasto plate ($18). For the mains we dove deep into the seafood (surely worse places to do that than here, right?). The seafood paella ($25) was good actually. Lovely, rich tomato sauce, well-cooked rice and a generous serving of chorizo sausage, mussels, calamari and prawns. My friend went for the marinière black mussels ($24). She wasn’t in a particularly sharing sort of mood when it came to the mussels, but I managed to liberate one or two. Unfortunately we’d rather overindulged on antipasto and seafood so there wasn’t really room for desert. Behind the bar Helm Bar has a pretty good selection of local and international beers and a strong, predominantly domestic wine list. It’s their cocktail list that was a winner for me, particularly their selection of Helm Bar special cocktails. verdict Decent food with a great view – everybody wins! THE SCENE

7 Wheat Rd, Darling Harbour

3 of the best Friday nights Spots in wollongong 6


The Harp


Goodbye work and hello weekend! With a brand new and entirely delicious menu, great selection of all things alcoholic and one of Wollongong’s best locations, Alibi is the perfect excuse (get it?) to start your weekend off on a Friday lunchtime. The food here is the best you’ll find anywhere in the Illawarra.

Wollongong is a bit of a student town and we all know that students like to do one thing above all. Drink! The Harp Hotel is perfectly suited to accommodate a fun night out with you and your mates. Big selection of wines, beers and spirits combine with a relaxed atmosphere and in house DJs will get your weekend started right.

Open from Wednesday through Saturdays, this is one of the most sophisticated and upmarket spots in Wollongong. Ivory specialises in cocktails and, when you sample a few of them you’ll definitely be able to taste the difference. Whether you’re looking to have a massive night or a few quiet drinks then Ivory has you covered.


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The bees knees You’re in Darwin and have worked up a powerful hunger handling crocodiles? Fear not, Ducks Nuts Bar and Grill will soothe your stomach pains with delicious food. Set right in the heart of bustling Mitchell Street, this restaurant has a wonderful menu. The fragrant duck curry is an absolute must try. If you’re keen to wash your meal down with a few beers (or maybe something a little stronger) have a tipple at the vodka bar.

Rupert est gras Bondi beach is an icon in and of itself. But, off the sand, other icons are emerging. Fat Ruperts has all the makings to stand out on Bondi Road. This brand new bar/hip– eatery (is that a word?) combines delicious cocktails, palate shattering foodie fare and a grand chien called Rupert. Go there, before I use even more French words!

know the name Sometimes in life medals and awards are as hollow as the cheap metal they’re made out of. Of course sometimes, like in the Olympics or in food guides, they are an endorsement of excellence. Geralds Bar has a simple motto, ‘we cook, you eat’ and that’s something we like!

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$25.50 Barwon Club, Geelong Swervedriver $61.50 The Zoo, Brisbane

friday 27 The Barons of Tang $15 The Standard, Sydney


Mind Over Matter $13 The Workers Club, Melbourne

Listen Out Festival Syd, Melb, Bris and Perth Sep 28–Oct 6. $165+ bf. Bringing together some of Australia and the world’s best electronic and dance acts, Listen Out will make you forget all about Parklife.


monday 23 Darebin Music Festival Free Northcote Town Hall, Melbourne Frankies World Famous House Band Free Frankies Pizza, Sydney

The Loft, Warrnambool Thundamentals Free Beach Road Hotel, Sydney Sures $10 Black Bear Lodge, Brisbane

thursday 26

tuesday 24

The Paper Kites $21.45 The Waratah Hotel, Hobart Illy $31.65 The Gov, Adelaide

saturday 28 Foals $74.50 The Enmore, Sydney The Delta Riggs $15.30 The Small Ballroom, Newcastle

Foals $74.50 HQ Adelaide, Adelaide

Parkway Drive $45 Newcastle Panthers, Newcastle

Louis London TBA The Beresford, Sydney

Rufus $23 The Corner Hotel, Melbourne

The Preatures $15 Transit Bar, Canberra

Jinja Safari $20 Karova Lounge, Ballarat

Hungry Kids of Hungary $35 The Courier-mail Spiegeltent, Brisbane

Neighbour $15 Dowse Bar, Brisbane

Tumbleweed TBA The Annandale Hotel, Sydney Tumbleweed

wednesday 25 Jinja Safari $25.50

The Basics $24 Theatre Royal, Castlemaine Jinja Safari


sunday 29 Jimmy Barnes $68 Lake Kawana Comm Centre, Sunshine Coast

BACK AROUND Boomerang Festival Byron Bay, Oct 4–6. $245 for a three-day camping ticket. This holistic, celebratory festival of all things indigenous globally will be the first of its kind anywhere on Earth. Get involved!

Tyagarah Tea Tree

$60.50 The Hi-Fi Sydney, Sydney

Hordern Pavilion, Sydney

wednesday 2 Disclosure $49 The Prince of Wales Bandroom, Melbourne Regurgitator $30 Waves Nightclub, Wollongong

thursday 3 Katchafire $45 Byron Bay Brewery, Byron Bay AlunaGeorge $35 Oxford Art Factory, Sydney

friday 4

Chance Waters $18.40 Alhambra Lounge, Brisbane

saturday 5 The Delta Riggs $15 The Standard, Sydney Bring Me The Horizon $79.50 RNA Showgrounds, Brisbane Born Lion Free The Old Bar, Melbourne

sunday 6 The Sweet & Low Down $30 The Standard, Sydney

The Cult $89.80


The Dames $12 Northcote Social Club, Melbourne Door Sales Only The Basics $23 The Corner Hotel, Melbourne

monday 30 Motown Mondays FREE The White Horse, Sydney

Bruce Springsteen Tour Australia and NZ. Feb–March 2014. TBA The Boss is coming back to Australia and New Zealand in 2014 – this time he’ll be playing his first ever shows in Adelaide and Perth. Australia and New Zealand

Comedy@Spleen Free Spleen Bar, Melbourne

tuesday 1

Big Day Out National + Auckland. Jan/Feb 2014. Prices TBA With grunge gods Pearl Jam, Arcade Fire and Brit-Rockers Blur (pictured) all already confirmed, BDO 2014 is going to be absolutely massive!

Oz Capital Cities



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Live coverage

throughout the entire venue Party afterwards with

DJ Obliveus & Juke Box Racket

50s & 60s Rock n Roll covers

Open from 12pm til late Saturday 28th September 420 Sydney Road Brunswick Melbourne – T 9380 8667 – E – The Penny Black – @thepennyblack – @420pennyblack 01_731p3-19 A&E upfront.indd 9

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follow us on New Brighton Hotel 71 The Corso, Manly




In Situ 34/18 Sydney Rd, Manly Four Pines 29/43-45 East Esplanade, Manly Marlborough Hotel 145 King St, Newtown The Imperial 35 Erskineville Road, Erskineville

Oktoberfest at the Lucky Coq Lucky Coq. Premium German beers and ciders on tap. Nobody does a beer celebration better than the Germans and nobody in Melbourne does Oktoberfest better than the Lucky Coq.

Chapel St, Windsor

sydney pubs Trinity Bar 505 Crown St, Surry Hills DOME Bar Level 1 589 Crown Street, Surry Hills The Mountbatten Hotel 701 George Street, Sydney Scary Canary 469 Kent St, Sydney Side Bar 509 Pitt St, Sydney Scubar 4/11-23 Rawson Place, Sydney

Candy’s Apartment 22 Bayswater Road, Potts Point World Bar 24 Bayswater Road, Potts Point Ryan’s Paragon Hotel Cnr Loftus & Alfred St, Sydney

The Norfolk 305 Cleveland St, Redfern The Vanguard 42 King St, Newtown Coogee Palace 169 Dolphin St, Coogee Beach Road Hotel 71 Beach Road, Bondi Beach The Bondi Hotel 178 Campbell Parade, Bondi Kinsela’s 383 Bourke St, Darlinghurst

Darwin’s greatest beer garden The Tap on Mitchell. Mon – Sun Right in the heart of Darwin’s tourist precinct, The Tap on Mitchell is the best place to go for a quiet beer or a delicious feed. Check it out!

58 Mitchell St, Darwin Palace Theatre The Hi-Fi 125 Swanston Street Melbourne The Tote 67-71 Johnston Street, Collingwood

The Beresford 345 Bourke St, Surry Hills Flinders Hotel 63 – 65 Flinders St, Surry Hills Oxford Art Factory 38-46 Oxford St, Darlinghurst White Horse Hotel 381 Crown St, Surry Hills

Eden Bar and Nightclub 163 Russell Street, Melbourne

White Revolver Cnr Curlewis + Campbell Parade Bondi Beach

Fluid Oz Bar 450 Elizabeth Street Melbourne

Bar Century Lvl 4 640, George St Sydney

The Palace Hotel Cnr of George and Hay St, City CBD

3 Wise Monkeys 555 George St, Sydney

Hotel Steyne 75 The Corso, Manly



Turf Bar 131 Queen St Melbourne

Asian Beer Cafe Level 3 Melbourne Central

Bar Humbug 586 Little Bourke St Melbourne

The Nite Cat 137-141 Johnston St, Fitzroy

Eurotrash Bar 18 Corrs Lane Melbourne

Asian Beer Cafe Level 3, Melbourne Central

The Night Owl

Star Bar Hotel Melbourne 160 Clarendon Street, South Melbourne

adelaide pubs Grace Emily Hotel 232 Waymouth St, Adelaide Electric Circus 17 Crippen Place, Adelaide Crown and Sceptre Hotel 308 King William Street, Adelaide The Promethean 116 Grote St, Adelaide Club 58 58 Hindley St, Adelaide

perth pubs The Subiaco Hotel 465 Hay Street, Subiaco Voodoo Lounge 174 James St, Northbridge


The Apartment Nightclub 401 Little Bourke Street Melbourne Cherry Bar 103 Flinders Lane Melbourne Corner Hotel 57 Swan Street Richmond The Penny Black 420 Sydney Road, Brunswick

Martinis for the masses The Gin Mill Prahran. New Cocktail bar in Melbourne. If gin is the best of all the alcohols (and, we think it is) then how could we not love a place that specialises in it? Get a martini in you! 173 High St, Prahran


Esplanade Hotel 11 The Esplanade, St Kilda Northcote Social Club 301 High Street Northcote

Jurassic Lounge extinction The Australian Museum. Every Thursday between Sep–Nov The after hour party to end all parties. All manner of weird and wild things take over the Australian Museum between 6–10pm until Nov.

6 College St, Sydney

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pUBLISTINGS The Shed 69-71 Aberdeen St Northbridge, The East End Bar and Grill 189 High Street, Fremantle The Clink Nightclub 14-16 South Terrace, Fremantle

brisbane pubs Hotel LA 68 Petrie Terrace, Brisbane GPO Hotel 740 Anne St, Fort Valley Canvas Club 16b Logan St, Woolloongabba The Fringe Bar Cnr Ann and Constance St Pig ‘N’ Whistle Riverside 123 Eagle Street, Brisbane Sky Room 2/234 Wickham St, Fort Valley Bravo Bar Brunswick Central, 455 Brunswick St Fortitude Valley The Met Nightclub 256 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley The Exchange Hotel 131 Edward St, Brisbane Iceworks Cnr Given Tce & Dowse St, Paddington

gold coast pubs Blush Nightclub 21 Orchid Avenue Surfers Paradise Benowa Tavern 117 Ashmore Rd, Benowa Coolangatta Sands Hotel 3 Griffith St, Coolangatta Shooters Superclub Shop 46 The Mark Orchid Avenue Surfers Paradise

cairns pubs


Rattle N Hum 65-67 Esplanade Gilligan’s Backpacker Hostel 57-89 Grafton St au

hobart pubs Syrup Nightclub 39 Salamanca Pl, Battery Point Republic Bar 299 Elizabeth St, Hobart Isobar 11 Franklin Wharf Hobart Knopwood’s Retreat 39 Salamanca Pl Hobart (03)6223 5808 The Duke 192 Macquarie Street Hobart

newcastle pubs Kent Hotel 59-61 Beaumont St, Hamilton Kings Street Hotel 15 Steel St, Newcastle West Mary Ellen Hotel 57 Railway St, Mereweather Bar Petite 5 King St, Newcastle The Northern Star 112 Beaumont St, Hamilton Hamilton Station Hotel 2-6 Beaumont St, Islington Hotel Delany 134 Darby St, Newcastle Sunyside Tavern 20 Broadmeadow Rd, Broadmeadow Premier Hotel 1 Brunker Rd, Broadmeadow Isobar 1 Honeysuckle Drive Newcastle Cambridge Hotel 789 Hunter St, Newcastle Lass O’Gowrie Hotel 14 Railway St, Wickham

Salt House 6/2 Pier Point Rd, Cairns

Albion Hotel 72 Hannell St, Wickham

Fabric Cnr Shields and Esplanade St pubs

Hamilton Hotel 71 Tudor St, Hamilton

follow us on Beaumont Exchange Hotel Cnr Beaumont and Denison Street, Hamilton



Wickham Park Hotel 61 Maitland Rd, Islington Cricketers Arms 61 Bruce St, Cooks Hill Oriental Hotel 53 Bull St, Cooks Hill Royal Inn Hotel Waratah 61/69 Station St, Waratah

byron bay pubs Cheeky Monkey’s 115 Jonson St, Byron Bay The Northern 35-43 Jonson St, Byron Bay The Owl & The Pussycat 85 Jonson St, Byron Bay Beach Hotel Bay Ln, Byron Bay Woody’s Surf Shack 90-96 Jonson St, Byron Bay Treehouse on Belongil 25 Childe St, Byron Bay

canberra pubs Transit Bar 7 Akuna St, Canberra Cube Nightclub 33 Petrie Plaza, City ICBM 50 Northbourne Ave, Canberra Mooseheads 105 London Circuit, Canberra Academy Club 15 Bunda St, Canberra

Best Bands and Djs in the NT Discovery, Darwin. Clubbers Guide to Spring. October 4 In conjunction with Ministry of Sound, Discovery is bringing the hottest DJs to Darwin to farewell the Dry Season. Air con will be on full blast! 89 Mitchell Street

234 Corrimal Street Wollongong Questions Unit 5 123-125 Corrimal Street Wollongong Castros 5 Victoria Street Wollongong

darwin pubs Squires Tavern 3 Edmunds St Darwin The Deck Bar 22 Mitchell St, Darwin The Rock Bar 2/78 Todd St, Alice Springs The Barra Bar 34 Stott Tce, Alice Springs Firkin n Hound 21 Hartely St, Alice Springs

(08) 8953 3033 The Juicy Rump

The Tap Bar 58 Mitchell St, Darwin

Lasseters Hotel Casino, Alice

alice springs pubs

Bojangles Saloon

Todd Tavern Todd Mall, Alice Springs


80 Todd St, Alice Springs


Wollongong pubs OneFiveOne 150 Keira Street Wollongong Grand Hotel 124 Keira Street Wollongong Glasshouse + Su Casa 90 Crown Street Wollongong Ivory 77 – 79 Crown Street Wollongong Alibi 76 Crown Street Wollongong

Live music at the Penny Black The Penny Black, Melbourne. 7 – 9.30pm Fri–Sat nights The Penny Black loves live music and puts on gigs from local bands and musicians every Friday and Saturday nights. Check it out!

420 Sydney Rd Brunswick

Harp Hotel

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est ue l Gu al ia ci ec Spe h Sp th Wi Wit

Lime Cordiale TOURING OCTOBER 2013

Tickets and info at

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Are you spotted in the circle?

you spotted Email us atAre tom@ in the circle? with ‘Spotted’ in the subject line, If email include that’smust you in the a photo ofemail yourself! circle us atBoom tom@ - You’ve won yourself awith in the subject $100‘Spotted’ bar tab at Scubar.


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yourself! Boom Like ausphoto on of facebook/ - You’ve won yourself a tntdownunder for more $100 bar tab at Scubar. party pics from the night! Like us on facebook/ tntdownunder for more party pics from the night!

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crab racing monday September 16th 2013



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Tim Cope

The Australian adventurer on his new book On The Trail Of Genghis Khan, about his 10,000km journey across the Eurasian Steppe INTERVIEW jennifer ennion

storms, to protecting my little herd from thieves and wolves. Overwhelmingly the people were hospitable, but to survive and learn required changing my mindset somewhat, and not taking things too personally. What are the difficulties of travelling in such remote areas? In conditions ranging from -50 to +50, discomfort is the norm, but the biggest challenge is finding grass and water and keeping the horses in good condition – one gets used to thinking 24/7 about grass.

What were the most challenging aspects of travelling the Eurasian Steppe on horseback? The biggest challenge was taking care of three horses, and sometimes a camel, and my Tigon. On a journey by horseback, the animals’ needs – mostly grass and water – come first. One can never look past the daily challenge of finding grass and water, which are the keys to survival. Of course, there were other incidents that were difficult to overcome – learning to ride a horse to start with, having my horses stolen on the first week, riding through the summer nights to avoid 50 degree heat in the Kazakh Desert, battling bureaucracy on borders and eventually facing the death of my father in a car accident when I was in Ukraine.

What inspired you to write your second book, On The Trail Of Genghis Khan? My dream was to ride a horse 10,000km from Mongolia to Hungary across the great Eurasian Steppe, to understand the nomadic cultures that have presided there for thousands of years. Writing about my experiences has always been a part of digesting it and sharing it with others. I was compelled to tell the untold stories of the Steppe people of today, and their histories that we are so unaware of, and yet which helped shape contemporary society across the globe.

How tough is it travelling alone? It was testing. There were times, like when I was stuck in the gold mining town of Akbakai, Kazakhstan, where I fell in with some alcoholics who served up boiled pigeon for Christmas lunch, that I just wanted an exit. Was it tougher than you expected? Being alone on this trip challenged me more than I thought it would. I could rarely drop my guard, and had to be on the look out for everything from navigating through winter

What are the joys of travelling alone? Some of the most impressionable times for me were when I was out alone with my three horses and dog, riding through a clear expanse of treeless plains, feeling as if I was etching out a path through the canvas of my own dream. To think that no one ahead knew I was coming, no one was expecting me, and in fact, no one but I knew we existed in that moment was a liberating experience, as if I had managed to break free of the parameters of our normal world that is so defined by time and place. What is the main message of your motivational speeches? That there are many ways of looking at the world, and forging your life, and the evidence can be found in the many rich and diverse cultures of our planet. Do you have any words of wisdom for intrepid travellers? If you have to rush, rush slowly. Tim Cope’s On The Trail Of Genghis Khan, published by Bloomsbury RRP $29.99 on Nov 21. Cope is currently on tour around Australia.



You’re frequently described as one of Australia’s most inspiring adventurers – what about your journeys inspires people so much? For me, adventures are a vehicle for travelling deep into the fabric of society, coming to know the environmental conditions that shape people’s lives, and viewing the present in the context of history. It’s about letting go of western-orientated preconceptions, and even awareness of one’s own difficulties, and viewing the world through the eyes of others. Ultimately, it’s a sense of camaraderie and friendship with local people that is core to my journeys. This philosophy of travel – combined with my animals, including my dog Tigon who usually steals the show – appeals to a wide audience.

What are the rewards? Paradise is sinking into sleep at night listening to the horses munching through thick pasture. Hell is going to bed at night to silence, knowing that the horses have gone hungry and have nothing to chew on.

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Welcome to Sydney Adventure Cruises Sydney Adventure Cruises are the leading cruise operator in Sydney. We run a fleet of modern, high-speed catamarans featuring the latest facilities and technology. Our whale watching adventures operate from May to November in open waters, or you can cruise around Sydney Harbour in style for our biggest events on New Year’s Eve, Australia Day and Boxing Day. We also offer private charters and corporate bookings. Let our friendly and expertly trained team take you on the adventure of a lifetime.

THE FIRST 50 PEOPLE TO PURCHASE A WHALE WATCHING TICKET RECEIVES 40% OFF! USE THIS BOOKING CODE WTNT40 TO RECEIVE YOUR DISCOUNT. *Booking code is only valid for cruises from Mon-Fri and in September and October only. To receive this offer all bookings must be made in September 2013.

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20/09/13 5:39 PM


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grown ups 2 FILM review by Alasdair Morton Starring: Adam Sandler, Kevin James | PG | 98mins | Out September 26

runner runner FILM Starring: Justin Timberlake, Ben Affleck | M | 91mins

Timberlake stars as a Princeton student who loses all his money in online gambling, so heads to the island where said website is hosted only to be won over by its shady owner, Affleck, for whom he becomes a right-hand man. Out September 26


You either like Adam Sandler movies, or you think he is the worst thing to happen to cinema. Which one of these two camps you sit in will dictate whether you find Grown Ups 2 a fun or painful, brain-deprived nonsense. We think the latter. Adam Sandler is a law unto himself. His movies are perennially trashed by the critics – Jack And Jill collected the biggest number of Razzies awards ever at the 2011 event honouring Tinseltown’s worst – but they are successful, raking in sizeable chunks of dollar around the world on, by Hollywood standards, small budgets. Grown Ups 2 is yet another outing for his man-child dopefest routine, with the cast returning (Kevin James, Chris Rock, David Spade) as Sandler and best buds reconvene in the small New Hampshire town they grew up in. Somehow they have managed to cajol Maya Rudolph, Mari Bello and Salma Hayek back as their wives, too. But despite actors who can be decent elsewhere, it amounts to a series of goofing, gurning and gags about farting that could not really ever be described as jokes as the plodding apes clash with a group of local kids featuring Twilight’s Taylor Lautner and Heroes’ Milo Ventimiglia. That’s it for story, and pretty much it for jokes, too. It is stupendously unfunny, full of odious characters, and David Spade remains the most hideous thing to grace the silver screen since that critter burst out of John Hurt’s chest in Alien. It’s a noxious, insulting and lazy. And will probably make a bundle. Don’t say we didn’t warn you. Good for: Sandler fans alone. And even then, it’s not exactly The Wedding Singer

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$5 DRINKS dj till late free pretzels





German Tunes all night

Prize for best dressed


19/09/13 5:57 AM


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Let’s hope that’s all he does

Swedes approve beach wanking


Good news for exhibitionists. A recent court ruling in Sweden has indicated that public masturbation is A-OK. A 65-year-old was in court to face charges of sexual assualt after he was caught shaking hands with the bishop on a public beach in Stockholm. He was graciously let off the sexual assault charges as it was decided that he was not actually directing his actions at anyone in particular. The prosecutor stated after the ruling,”We can conclude that it is okay to masturbate on the beach.”

brazil plans break from us internet

Photos: Getty Images and AAP Newswire



Following revelations of the NSA spying on citizens, Brazil has decided to focus on onshore data storage to prevent the USA from snooping on Brazilian citizens. Brazil is forging ahead with their intentions to shift away from the currently US centric internet by moving data-storage to Brazil itself and enhancing data secutiry laws. Following Edward Snowden’s release of sensitive NSA documents it was revealed that they had been spying not only on their own citizens but also those in Brazil (and probably the world). This apparently includes the Brazilian president, and the country’s largest company, Petrobras. President Dilma Rousseff cancelled a state dinner invitation to the White House next

Capital growth: Spring has sprung in the nation’s capital. Here can be seen a rather large inflatable duck and some sort of kangaroo statue celebrating (if that’s possible) at the Floriade Festival in Canberra. month following the absence of any apology and contrition from Obama.The move is especially significant considering it is the first invitation Brazil has received in over 12 years.

Down Fido! Couple face bestiality charges


A North Carolina soldier and his wife have been arrested after accusations that they had been making dog porn. It is alleged that a North Carolina woman has

been shagging her dogs while her husband filmed the acts. “Anything you can ever imagine a man and woman doing, she was having the dogs do,” Raeford police chief Franklin Crumpler told the Huff Post. The couple, Ruben Chance James Fox and Amber Nicole Fox, both 23, are facing charges of bestiality, conspiracy and disseminating obscene materials. Amber Fox also faces the additional charge of soliciting a crime against nature. How a-paw–ling! Get it?

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Dollars per square foot of office space in Hong Kong. Making it the world’s most expensive place to own some carpet

Le snip: My word, that’s got to hurt

aww nuts: groom removes his testes



In an odd move, a man decided to chop off his own testicles prior to attending his own wedding. As the final touches were being made to All Saints Church, in Hutton, east of London, a blood-soaked man entered the church ready for the ceremony. Friends arrived to find a police car outside and were told by the vicar that guests could not enter as a man had been injured. The man had apparently chopped his balls off with scissors and went beserk inside the church. The wedding went ahead as scheduled with the bride none the wiser.

But is it Art? Whales can paint


Beluga whales in an aquarium in Yokohama have been taught to paint pictures for autumn art season. Japan never fails to disappoint with creative and unexpected performances. The beluga whales at Hakkeijima Sea Paradise will be dazzling art lovers and general punters alike using specially adapted paint brushes they can hold in their mouths. With the help of a trainer, the whales are guided to paint pictures bearing an abstract resemblance to natural scenes. Through this they hope to be able to get the whales to emulate the depiction of a cardboard cutout fish, with a little (probably a lot) of assistance from trainers.

Per cent of Americans who have apparently donated money to charity in the last month alone


Number of divorces in South Korea per 1000 people. Couples of South Korea, relax! Don’t let the North get to you

Number, in tourists, who visit France every year. And, why not? Great food, beautiful cities... Lots of French people?


QUOTE OF THE WEEK make it snappy: Croc under bed zimbabwe

A former Zimbabwe cricketer was surprised to discover a rather scaly bed fellow had crept into his room. One-time all-rounder Guy Whittall, now director of Humani safari park, unknowingly slept peacefully just centimetres from a 150kg crocodile that had snuck in from the Turgwe River to sleep his bed. Whittall’s housemaid discovered the croc and alerted Guy to the visitor by screaming loudly. Most disconcerting was that Guy recalled spending the morning sitting with his feet over the edge of the bed. The croc was removed with the help of a few of Guy’s lucky co-workers and returned to the river.

I think the policy will be very offensive and... we fully reject the policy Indonesian MP Tantowi Yahya slamming Tony Abbott’s new ‘Sovereign Borders’ policy of towing boats back. Looks like the PM’s in for a fight.

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Scrambled: Chelsea looked terrible

‘Special one’ left with egg on his face


Chelsea and their new/old manager, Jose Mourinho have made a poor start to their Champions League campaign, being beaten 2-1 by lowly FC Basle at Stamford Bridge. Chelsea started the game the stronger and opened the scoring through young, Brazilian midfielder Oscar, but second half strikes from Mohamed Salah and Marco Streller saw the Swisse side earn an upset win over the one-time European Champions. Mourinho, who had called his young players “beautiful eggs” before the game, was left bemoaning their lack of ‘maturity’ and tendency to “get shaky” whenever faced with a stern test. You could say that they were a little underdone.

WArriors left with the Blues cricket

The New South Wales Blues have smashed one of the highest ever 50over scores in a one–day game against Western Australia. The Blues finished their innings on 7-465, with left-hander Ben Rohrer belting 108 runs off just 66 balls, and getting good support from wicketkeeper Ryan Carters (91 off 70), all-rounder Moises Henriques (87 off 55) and young gun opener Nic Maddinson (76 off 48). While the Warriors side was suffering from a number of forced admissions (due to the Perth Scorchers playing at the T20 Champions League tournament in India), the result was still tough to take. The Blues effort though fell short of the all time record of 4–496 made by Surrey. 22

Murderball: American and New Zealand wheelchair rugby internationals contest for possesion at the Tri-Nations opener in front of St Mary’s Cathedral in Sydney

PM to Manu – ‘There’s no Beef’ Rugby Union

English prime minister David Cameron has told Lions centre Manu Tuilagi there is no need to apologise for ‘having a bit of fun’. Tuilagi had apologised after he put ‘bunny ears’ on the PM during a photo outside of No.10 Downing Street. The PM had been honouring the victorious British and Irish Lions squad who defeated Australia in June and July. The prime minister tweeted: “Manutuilagi it was great to welcome you and the @lionsofficial team to No10. No need to apologise, I know it was just a bit of fun.’’ At least someone has a sense of humour about it.

BIG WEEK FOR ... Arsenal’s new 42.5 million pound man, Mesut Ozil has had a fairytale start to life as a Gunner. Arsenal manager Arsene Wenger is understandably chuffed, but can Ozil maintain his form? If not, Wenger could be in hot water. When the transfer window slammed shut and Arsene Wenger emerged proudly clutching at Ozil like he’d just pulled him from the womb, Gunners fans around the world rejoiced, and rightly so. Ozil is a world class talent of the highest order. Yet the Gunner’s still look light both up front and at the back, something Ozil can’t really help. Will Arsene’s splurge pay off in the end or not? Only time will tell.

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QUOTEs OF THE WEEK At the start it was based on hate, but that gradually grew into love New Chelsea striker Samuel Eto’o describing his rocky relationship with his current and former manager Jose ‘the Special One’ Mourinho. We all know how hard relationships can be...

It may well be that we made a mistake

Who will be showered in confetti come September 28th?

PREVIEW The last saturday in september AFL Grand final

Sat Sep 28 – Channel 7

Photos: AAP newswire , Getty

Many from the Northern Hemisphere find AFL (Australia’s national game) quite peculiar. But in Oz, it’s more a religion than a sport. At the time of writing their are still four teams in the running to lift the famous Premiership Cup and win the coveted Flag – Hawthorn and Geelong from Victoria, the Sydney Swans from New South Wales and the Fremantle Dockers from WA. Defending champions the Swans will be making the trip across the Nullabor to face

the Dockers in Perth in the second week of the finals and, after a bruising encounter with Carlton the week before might not have what it takes to press on to a second straight Grand Final. Meanwhile the rivalry that has grown up between the Hawks of Hawthorn and the Cats of Geelong has come to dominate the AFL in recent years. The semi-final between these two giants of the game will likely decide who will be lifting the cup at the MCG on the 28th in front of 95,000 screaming fans. This is a must watch event in Australia!

FIFA President Sepp Blatter finally admitting that awarding Qatar the 2022 Football World Cup could have been a mistake. Thanks Captain Obvious but we could (and did) try and tell you that from the beginning.

I don’t think it’s right to go into specifics, we just have to play better cricket more consistently Australia captain Michael Clarke discussing his side’s Ashes drubbing at the hands of England. It’s not rock science, obviously.


THE CHAT | Luis Suarez, genius or demon?


serving a long suspension for biting Q After Chelsea’s Branislav Ivanovic last season, how will Suarez’s return affect Liverpool? Positively or not? We will know more after watching him in action for the Reds A against Manchester United in the League Cup. Suarez has looked very sharp for Uruguay during his suspension lay-off, but – having agitated so strongly for a move away from Anfield during the off season – will his heart still be in it and, indeed, will the fans still be behind him? Who knows. Others will also point to Liverpool’s great record without the Uruguyan, with Daniel Sturridge proving a revelation in the middle of the park. At the end of the day, Liverpool will surely be stronger if they can have an in-form Sturridge and Suarez on the same pitch.

The biggest game in Australian sports Sat 3:30pm, Channel 7

The Grand Final

Football Everton v Newcastle The Toffees and Magpies battle it out Tue, Oct 1 5:00 am, Fox Sports 1

Tennis Shanghai Rolex Masters Will Suarez bite back?

See all the game’s big names in action Oct 6, 7:30am. Fox Sports 3

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OUr view COMMENT: Hugh radojev Email:

Julie Bishop is a woman alone at the top end

Misogyny in the cabinet – it’s raining men on the front bench Prime minister–elect Tony Abbott has unveiled his new cabinet and, quelle surprise, it’s chock–full of dudes! Julie Bishop, the incoming foreign affairs minister, is the only woman named on the front bench – a fact that has drawn a great deal of criticism. But I’m not sure why everybody is so surprised?! When former Spice Girl turned Australia’s Got Talent judge Geri Halliwell released her cover of It’s Raining Men in 2001, she no doubt envisaged the prospect of a heavy deluge of dudes as a positive thing for women everywhere. ‘So that each and every woman, could find the perfect guy’ – that’s what you promised us Ginger Spice! Yet here we are, over a decade later and this veritable biblical flood of paunchy, middle aged politicians in blue ties and dark suits has swept aside any notion of gender equality in this country. Labor has been quick to decry Testosterone Tony’s, Liberal National ‘Sausage’ Party as backwards, with ALP member Chris Bowen calling the announcement a “sad day for Australia”. University professors, feminist academics and anyone with a moral compass has also been (justifiably) quick to slam the lack of female appointments to cabinet. Rightly or wrongly though, mes amis, the masses have spoken. They’ve elected a man who seems to have developed his views on women while watching endless episodes of Mad Men – and have given him a huge mandate to do exactly what he wants. Stiff shit, in other words if you’re a woman anyway. Middle aged, white males rejoice, it’s 1950 again! The PM–elect has defended his appointments however. “I’m obviously disappointed there aren’t more women in Cabinet,” said Abbott, before mumbling, “you can expect to see as time goes by more women in both the Cabinet and the ministry.” Better install a good clock in the kitchen, ladies. You’re going to want to watch the grains of sand slide through the hourglass because things like equal pay, equal opportunity and equal representation are coming at some undetermined point in the future. Maybe. For now, be happy the blokes even let you vote! Are there too few women in the new front cabinet? Email:


the rise of the ‘football hipster’ I was born in England and grew up with a round ball at my feet. But, years ago, loving football in Australia was extremely hard work. Where I went to school you were supposed to play rugby – that’s what ‘men’ did. We had a ‘soccer’ team, but they never got invited to any parties. I kept my true love hidden away. Like a mushroom I kept it in the dark and mocked the ‘soccer’ kids along with everyone else while inside I secretly burned with shame. My heart went out to those brave souls.

I kept my true love hidden away

Now, in the space of half a decade it seems that everybody loves football! On Saturday nights you can walk into pubs in Surry Hills or Darlinghurst and hear skinny guys in tight jeans earnestly discussing the merits of different formations or voicing a preference for a possession game over the long ball. My how times have changed!

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Lucky number 7s Excitement, big hits and broken dreams – and that's just going to be in the stands at the 2013 Gold Coast 7s Words Hugh Radojev

International, 15-man rugby union has, over the last few years, seemingly done its level best to drive all but the most hardened fans away from the game. The constant tinkering with the rules, the speculative kicking duels and the constant re-packing of scrums (not to mention the collapse of a once proud Australian side) has done little to attract a new generation of fans to what is a truly great sport. Until now that is anyway. Rugby Sevens has fast become the most popular incarnation of the sport, with its shorter halves and focus on entertaining, running rugby and scoring of tries. And, of course, on the party atmosphere encouraged in the crowd. The HSCBC World Series also takes various teams from around the globe to various exotic locales like Dubai, San Diego, Tokyo and Hong Kong, taking the colourful atmosphere with it, wherever it goes. The HSBC Rugby Sevens World Series is bringing the excitement of the game back in a big way this October. Set against the beautiful, sunny surrounds of the Gold Coast, all the passion, vibrant colour and excitement of players and supporters from countries all around the globe will be on show. This is one party that you don’t want to miss. So, before the competition kicks off on October 12th we’re going to try and preview the thing as best as we can. Take a look at the likely winner on the field as well as all the fun and excitement that will happen off of it. Should be a bit of fun.

The final countdown Right, let’s get the important bit out of the way first – the issue of which nation is going to win the tournament. See, 26

now, that’s a bit of a tough one. In this humble scrivener’s opinion there are only two real teams in the race when it comes to who will be crowned champion, but deciding between the two is a much less cut-and-dried decision. Surely the final will come down to the two powerhouses of International Sevens, the vigour, pace and flair of the Fijian side and the clinical precision and discipline of New Zealand. These two nations have come to dominate the seven-a-side version of the game, almost since its inception and deciding between the two is extremely difficult. It will really come down to a matter of which team turns up best on the day. Fiji did of course win this competition last year but you just never know. Keep an eye out for 22-year-old flyer Metuisela Talebula, he’s an excitement machine! While, for the Kiwis, veteran back Tomasi Cama (last year’s IRB Sevens Player of the Year) could hold the key to New Zealand’s hopes of wresting the title from Fiji. If you like to back a bit of a dark horse then don’t count out Samoa.

Coolest team award This one is a bit easier – it’s got to be Argentina. Los Pumas play the game of rugby with a kind of laconic elegance and abandon that can only come from being born in South America and speaking Spanish. They are all practically male models as well. We have it on pretty good authority that when Argentina bowed out of the competition last year, their lap of honour around the crowd took the best part of half an hour and was met by howls of anguish from every woman in attendance. A fair few halfexposed bosoms were signed along the way too, apparently.

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Lolo Jones

It's a tough life being young, rugged and Argentinian, but hey, somebody has to do it! You can always guarantee that the Argentine side will throw the ball around and try to put on a spectacle for their adoring fans when the whistle goes. They might not win every game they play, but you can bet they're going to have fun along the way.

Photos: Getty Images, Justin Steinlauf, Rugby Australia

What to wear This is the best thing about the Sevens; you can (and indeed, are encouraged) to wear whatever the hell you want. The more interesting, colourful and funny the better! For example, we sent a delegation along from TNT to the Gold Coast 7s last year and they dressed up as Cotswold Morris Dancers. That made for quite a few amusing photographs, as I’m sure you can imagine. If you’re in need of some costume ideas for yourself, why not just head along to the Gold Coast 7s website ( au/gc7s) and check some out for yourself. Amongst some of my favourites include a group of Smurfs in white, floppy caps and blue body paint, a couple of Avatars and a couple of pretty real looking Transformers. The possibilities are, quite literally, endless. It really comes down to how creative you and your friends can be! Put your heads together and have a little brainstorm, the better your costume is the more chance you have to win the ‘best dressed competition’ or get your photograph plastered all over the competition’s website. This event has consistently proven itself to be one of the most exciting events on the Gold Coast calendar and this year’s going to be better than ever!

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TRAVEL HOTSHOTS | travel news | Travel deals | Travel stories | IMAGE OF THE WEEK

Photos: Thinkstock, Getty, AAP

devilishly hansome Meet Joey, the Tasmanian devil, part of a Monarto Zoo breeding programme which aims to save the Aussie icon from being wiped out by disease.


Culture chameleon


We take a look at some of Australia’s best ‘little worlds’ – the kind of cultural enclaves that make this country what it is. 28

on the road /44

Great expeditions

We sent a writer on an epic roadtrip from Adelaide to Alice Springs. On the way he climbed a mountain and slept in a hole.

Antarctica is one of the last great untouched wildernesses on Earth, full of amazing animals and beautiful scenery.


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WEEKLY WINNER Where there’s smoke: Tina Wiedebusch, 23, Germany Tina says: “This photograph was taken near an active volcano in Borneo. It was kind of scary but beautiful at the same time.” We say: “This is a really powerful photograph, Tina. The landscape in the background behind you looks almost primeval, with the thick mist coverting the ground and the volcano peak spewing ash into the air. Despite the billowing smoke the mountains in the distance, lit by the sunrise look strangely calm. We really love this photograph, Tina. Gut gemacht!”

HOT TIPS: Scout your locations It’s no good getting up early to photograph a sunrise only to find out you have trekked to the wrong side of a headland and everything is in the shadows. Get out and scout your locations, decide what will make a good photograph ahead of time, then put yourself there at the right time of day to get that photograph. Some serious landscape photographers might camp out for months in one spot waiting the perfect light to capture the perfect image. A little forethought, planning and preparation can make your photo much better. Tips by ocean photographer, Joel Coleman See



the monthly winner gets THREE DAYS Campervan HIRE from mighty campers

Send high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description to: Photos are judged by the TNT team at their own discretion. Photos will also be placed on TNT’s Facebook page. For terms and conditions, see Weekly winner Tina wins a free night’s stay at the award-winning Sydney Central YHA (yha. The monthly winner gets three days’ campervan hire from Mighty Campers Australia (

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BUrger off Anti-McDonald’s protesters from Melbourne are confident of getting a meeting with McDonald’s CEO Don Thompson after a rally in the US attracted local media attention. The No Maccas in the Hills group inflated about 30 kangaroos at a Chicago McDonald’s as part of their fight against the company building a fast food restaurant in Tecoma on Melbourne’s eastern outskirts. Garry Muratore, a spokesman for the group, said the rally attracted a lot of attention.”We were talking to the media guys there and they think Don will take notice when he sees it on Chicago media.”

Photos: Thinkstock

Baaaa-d to worse


A man who admitted to having sex with a goat in August has been jailed for six weeks over the offence and will be forced to sign up to the sex offenders register. The North Wiltshire magistrate’s court activated an “eight-week suspended sentence” on Thursday, according to the Metro, which will see Robert Newman spend six weeks in jail for his penetrative attack on a local goat. Newman originally denied having sex with a goat on a farm in Wiltshire, but changed his plea after learning that the poor animal required veterinary care afterwards. 

Virgin/New Zealand The competition watchdog has given Virgin Australia the green light to extend its alliance with Air New Zealand for another five years. The ACCC has said that it doesn’t think the extension of the deal between the two trans-Tasman airlines will affect competition on other similar routes. “We were concerned that authorising the alliance would eliminate competition from Virgin as an independent player,” said watchdog commissioner Jill Walker. ”That’s why we think we still need a capacity condition on this alliance.”

Prawns, not pies Tourism Australia has announced a new culinary marketing campaign. On the back of the strength of Australia’s wine exports, tourism chiefs are hoping to lure foodies from all over the world to experience the country’s high-end culinary culture. A spokesperson for TA said that this new focus on food could potentially provide a great boost for Australia’s economy. “Potentially billions of dollars over the long run and for us trying to get to our 2020 goal of somewhere between $115 billion to $140 billion in tourism receipts that we will hopefully be getting by 2020,” he said.

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All the colour of Chinese New Year

It’s a small world You don’t even need to leave multicultural Australia to travel around the world. Here are the best cultural enclaves and markets Words Rory Platt and Tash Levy

Whether you’re craving top pasta, the finest chicken noodles or a chunky bratwurst, you can find cuisines from around the globe in Australia. This country is a multicultural hub, comprising thriving communities – some of which have been forming for hundreds of years. It’s these pockets of culture which offer a glimpse into the history of Australia, and the people who have helped to make it the great country it is today. Stepping into these places – whether it’s Sydney’s 19th-century Chinatown, Melbourne’s Little Italy, a slice of Germany or a taste of Greece 34

– is like being in another country. Out goes the true-blue Aussie feel we all know and love, and in comes a wealth of traditions and cultures settlers have passed on through generations and held on to for years. From the vibe in the streets and the architecture, to the music, shops and markets – everything transports the visitor to the community’s home country – or back to its father’s father’s home country. Australia’s recent, post-colonial history is a story of cultural collision – and TNT loves the colour, the excitement and the variation this

brings to Australia’s cities and towns. The restaurants, the parks, the sights and sounds. Australia is a cultural melting pot and we like it that way. Here, we list the best markets and cultural enclaves that should be top of your list while you’re travelling in Oz. So open up your mind, and your wallet at times – because you won’t want to leave without buying a keepsake – and prepare to see a side of Australia that clings to its roots and won’t let go. Get ready to enter the small worlds that go together, hand in hand to make Australia the wonderful place that it is.

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Good food and wines in Hahndorf

Glebe Markets

Hahndorf – South Australia (Adelaide Hills Region) Tell me more: Adelaide Hills is home to the country’s oldest German settlement. Hahndorf features a tasteful exploration of traditional and contemporary German culture. Plane trees cast a charming, dappled shadow over the Main Street, with its original ‘Fachwerk’ buildings hosting a mix of gift shops, cafés and galleries. A walk through the village-like Hahndorf and visitors will find the finer, yet simpler pleasures on offer: strawberry picking at Beerenberg Farm; hearty German meals from Karl’s German Coffee Shop; wine tasting at Hahndorf Hill Winery. If you’ve got some spare cash, and fancy splurging it on a decent night’s kip, spend it in the Hahndorf Oaktree Cottages, which one TripAdvisor reviewer calls “the best place I ever stayed in all of Australia”. Okay, so you’re looking at around $185 per night which is a tad pricey, but this promises to be a memorable, calming stay that you simply won’t ever forget. Alternatively, the Adelaide Travellers Inn Backpackers Hostel or The Guest House are just two of the more affordable properties found a mere 20km outside Hahndorf, in the Adelaide CBD. TL

Glebe Markets – Sydney, New South Wales

Photos: TNT; Tourism Australia; Beth Wode

Salamanca Markets

(Inner Western Sydney) Tell me more: Make sure you head into one of the trendiest parts of Sydney city on a Saturday, and bring a decent shopping budget with you. Glebe Markets draws bargain-hunting, vintage-loving, book-reading and coffeedrinking crowds from all over Sydney. Start your day with a decadent, French toast brekky, and a top-quality long black, from, well to be honest, anywhere in Glebe. You really can’t set a foot wrong in terms of dining experiences in this area. Wedge Espresso is a recent brunch hot spot that has received a lot of attention and encouraging reviews. The Glebe Markets also bring out some of the best in fledgling Sydney bands, buskers and singers, all aiming to entertain and make your perusing experience all the more enjoyable. It’s easy to see why the inner-west of Sydney is fast becoming the city’s trendy capital. And if you’re after vintage or recycled clothes, this is the place to come, Glebe Markets is a great place to find recycled fashion, CDs and books. You never know what treasures your rummaging fingers may turn up, if you put a bit of effort into it. The markets don’t open ‘til 10am, so you’ve got plenty of time to enjoy your breakfast. Their address is 40 Glebe Point Road (just follow the sound of live bands and the smell of street food). Parking in Glebe is a bit of a hassle; travel from Wynyard is either a 10-minute train ride, or a longer bus trip from nearby George Street in the city centre. It’s easily accessible, no matter where you are. TL

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Hobart – salamanca Markets

Chinatown – Haymarket

(Tasmania) Tell me more: The forgotten state, Tasmania is often thought of as the slow sibling, but anyone who has ventured across the Tasman will tell you the sleepy state is full of surprises, and if the Salamanca Market is anything to go by, they’d be right on the money. One of the friendliest cities in Australia, Hobart has all the delights and cultural features that you’d expect of Sydney or Melbourne – but with none of that cosmopolitan pretentiousness (or propensity for soya milk). To suction up the gloriousness that the city has to offer, a stroll down to Salamanca Market amid Georgian sandstone architecture and moored yachts should be just the ticket. Here you’ll find some of the quaintest, most beautiful buildings we’ve seen anywhere in Australia. You could spend hours perusing the local handmade wares and nibbling on tasters, so make sure you take a break for a coffee, or if it’s one of those Saturdays, you can grab a beer in any one of the fine drinking establishments around the markets. If you can get a taste of the whole of Tasmania in one place, it’s right here – great food, produce, wine, wacky characters and history all rolled into one. Short of pulling on some gumboots and becoming a sheep farmer yourself, there’s no better way to experience Hobart. The Salamanca Market really is all about the locals. The produce on sale is farmed, grown, picked and cooked by the very same person selling it too you, and the stunning hand-crafted jewellery is melted, twisted and polished by the artist holding the mirror. You’ll be lucky if you manage to leave without replacing the entire contents of your backpack with souvenirs. The Salamanca Market is open every Saturday from 8.30am to 3pm. One of the best markets in the world, in our humble (but expert) opinion. RP

(Sydney CBD)

Acland Street – St Kilda (Melbourne) Tell me more: Down the street from Luna Park there lies a menagerie of sweet, baked delights beckoning. It’s an ideal pastime following an energy-expending trip to Luna Park, or after a full day of perusing the nearby esplanade markets. You will likely need a sugar hit to make it through the rest of the afternoon, so indulge and get acquainted with the cakes and pastries courtesy of the area’s European immigrants that arrived in the Thirties and Forties. Though the area hasn’t held fast to its European roots, some of the cake stores from that era have managed to stand the test of time. With a belly full of sweet treats, you can get comfy at one of Melbourne’s oldest theatres, The Palais, and check out a local production. With the beach just a few streets away, the best-of-both-worlds experience pretty much beats any trip to Europe. Acland Street truly is the vibrant, beating heart of St Kilda, one of Melbourne’s most interesting suburbs. Visit once and you might never leave – many visitors haven’t. RP


Tell me more: Located in the centre of the Sydney CBD, Chinatown is a fun day out, especially if your budget is on its last legs. Bright lights, lanterns and a clash of modern and traditional Chinese architecture create a vibe unlike anywhere else in the city. It’s easy to get a little lost amongst the inexpensive dresses, groceries, makeup, bags (the list goes on) in Paddy’s Markets on Thomas Street. The flea markets are open from Wed-Sun, 9am-5pm. Definitely worth checking out for those who like a good budget buy. You can take your pick of eating experiences that range from Korean to Malaysian, and cuisines from all over Asia. Don’t leave Chinatown without spending a good hour or two sipping green tea, cracking fortune cookies, and tasting dumplings at The East Ocean Restaurant in Haymarket for a Yum Cha experience you won’t regret. Also, throughout January and February, this part of the city comes alive during Chinese New Year. The celebratory parade is something not to be missed, if you’re in town.


Fremantle – Western Australia (outside perth) Tell me more: Do Stuck in its own little bubble of alternative lifestyle, a wander through parts of Fremantle will make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time to Woodstock. Buskers and street performers are found on every corner, living the dream and adding to the already colourful vibe of the area. You’ll have no shortage of opportunities to get stuck into a flat white and watch the world go by. The markets here are always worth a visit, open Friday to Sunday every week, they’re bursting with unique gifts and delicious food. You can always saunter past the towering Norfolk Pines of The Esplanade and into the Little Creatures brewery (some of the best beer made anywhere in Australia, in this scriveners opinion anyway). It’s an ideal location for sitting down with some delicious ale, soaking up the sun on the waterfront. Also, if you’re feeling adventurous, it’s the perfect place from which to head out to beautiful Rottnest Island. Lay on the beach, pet a Quokka and ride a bike. Lovely. RP

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Mindil Beach Markets – Darwin

Fortitude Valley – brisbane

(northern territory)


Tell me more: As the name suggests, this is the ideal place to shop near the beach while watching the sunset. It’s a bit of a madhouse during peak tourist season (June-August), so much so, that they had to hold it two nights a week instead of one as it became so popular. As demand increased, so did the amount of massproduced souvenir junk on offer, but keep your eyes peeled and you’re guaranteed to find some gems on the stalls. Established in 1987, the Mindil Beach vision was to bring the vibrancy of Asian street markets to the tropical setting of Darwin. It’s clearly come to fruition. Despite the surge in visitors, the markets are still one of the best places to get yourself a decent feed – of the 200 stalls, just under half sell top nosh. With cheap noodles in hand, you can settle down onto the sand to watch the sunset and ponder reentering the fray to bargain for that crocodile testicle pencil case. It’s not just the food rocking an Asian flavour either, as among the local handmade wares you can pick up some authentic Balinese silks. Live bands, fire shows, acrobatics and street performers keep revelers entertained, while testing some of the 1200 dishes on offer is the ultimate way for a hungry shopper to get a taste of Asian-Pacific cuisine. RP

In true Australian style, Fortitude Valley, Brisbane, is a little unsure of itself – proving a contradiction of style and downtown vibes. A meld of hippy and hipster, of coffee houses and locals’ pubs. It’s a top spot to catch a gig or have a drink though. A visit to the sundeck of Lady Lamington will satisfy your need for a pretty cocktail in a pretty venue. If lounging around in resort-style hot spots is making your feet a little restless, take to the streets in search of an adventure. Tire yourself out with a walk around The Zoo, or the Judith Wright Centre of Contemporary Arts if you’re feeling a culture-fix, The Valley is one of Australia’s prime entertainment districts, so you need little advice on what to check out (live music is everywhere), but I will recommend the Sunday Blues Gigs @ The Boo which offers a great time hosting barefoot bowls, great food, and of course, blues music. Bunk accommodation goes for around $29p/n. Every year, around summer, the Valley celebrates just how awesome it is with the Valley Fiesta. So much good music. TL

Chill out in Fortitude Valley – or don’t

Nimbin – Northern Rivers Area (New South Wales) Tell me more: If you’re not familiar with Nimbin, you soon will be, especially if you’re planning to visit nearby surfer’s haven Byron Bay. Nimbin became notorious as a hippy commune and popular with backpackers looking to get… well, high. Jump on the magic bus and take a trip to Nimbin, and you’ll leave with a pocketful of goodies and a creeping hunger, but you’ll have missed out on a community with real colour and vibrancy. Boranup Karri Forest lies within the National Park between Caves Road and the coast where 60m-tall karri trees tower over the steep hills and valleys. The Boranup lookout provides sweeping views over the forest and coast. Just about everything new age and alternative is going on here – from fire-dancing and sustainability to psychedelic cafés and street art. You can take off into the bush at a meditative retreat or just find yourself on a walk through the rainforest. The centre of Nimbin itself has a bounty of hippy-oriented stores where you can buy yourself a wind chime, a dream catcher or a good old hacky-sack. Nimbin is also (as previously mentioned) a mere hop, skip and jump from Byron Bay, one of our favourite spots on the New South Wales North Coast. Great nightlife, friendly atmosphere, beautiful beaches and year-round festivals of music and art make Byron Bay another must visit destination for anyone keen to get out of Australia’s capital cities. RP 38

Sydney’s Little Italy (New South wales) Tell me more: Sydney’s Little Italy isn’t so much the New York City stereotype as it is a collection of suburbs in the inner west of the city. Places like Leichhardt, Five Dock and Haberfield are at the heart of Sydney’s burgeoning foodloving culture. The Italian Forum in downtown Leichhardt has an impressive multi-story piazza of restaurants, cafés and gift shops. Shopping is a little pricey, so do what the tourists do and window-shop with a gelato in hand. Leichhardt is also the capital of great coffee in Sydney. So if you’re a bit of a caffeine fiend (and, let’s be honest, who isn’t?) you’ll fall in love with all the cafés. October is a particularly good time of year to explore the inner west as the Italian Film Festival draws in movie-buffs, locals and those in need of a good European movie. General admission per film averages $30. Head over to Five Dock for a traditional Italian dinner at Gatto Matto Trattoria where the seafood is reasonably priced, and you are welcome to BYOB. TL

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Dusting off: (clockwise) outback driving; offroad in the Flinders Ranges; raw opals; pit stop; meeting the local cowboys

Adelaide to Alice south australia & Northern territory


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Roadtrippin’ into the sun From South Australia up into the blistering red outback, roadtripping from Adelaide to Alice is one trip you won’t forget Words hugh radojev

About halfway up the mountain, the muggy heat gives way suddenly as the low clouds roll in. Rain pelts from the sky and the loose shale track that meanders between prickly scrubs and gnarled trees turns treacherously slick underfoot. In the sapping heat of midday, the climb had been arduous enough, but now, with the rain falling relentlessly, the going has become downright dangerous. One step at a time, our group of 18 or so had set out from the old-growth eucalypt forest at the foot of the 923 metre high Mount Ohlssen–Bagge, which comprises one side of the beautiful Wilpena Pound right in the heart of South Australia’s Flinders Ranges National Park. We’d formed a column as we came to the mountain’s foot and Clark, our tour guide (and a former army man), turned to us and said, “We’re going to be doing a few climbs over the next few days but this is definitely going to be the most difficult of them. If you don’t think you can handle it, now’s the time to say and you can sit it out, because once we’re up there, you can’t just turn back.” Well, how hard could it be?

Photos: SATC, Peter Fisher, Matt Nettheim, Adam Bruzzone, John Somes

Baby talk An hour or so later and I am finding out. Andra – one of our group – is inching ahead of me, her hands scrabbling at sodden red earth, her back bent to the opened heavens. Clark, and a section of the more intrepid, sure footed souls have forged ahead while the majority of the others appear to have fallen away behind us; their disembodied voices, muffled by rock, scrubby bush and thick mist, the only indication that they haven’t plummeted to an untimely demise. Andra and I stand, for a moment, alone. “Should we maybe wait for the others to catch up?” I ask her, taking a sip from my water bottle and wiping a peculiar mixture of sweat, red mud and rainwater from out of my eyes. “Don’t be such a baby,” she replies with a smile, taking a swig from my bottle before hauling herself over a boulder and back onto the trail on the other side. “We’ll be up there in a minute.” Fair enough.

Ten or 15 minutes later and the incline seems at first to plateau, before flattening completely. The huge boulders and treacherous shale of the path we had been following give way

The achievement prompts spontaneous hugs and high fives

to stunted, prickly bushes and, joy of joys, hard packed earth. Sure footing at last!

In for a penny It’s only now, with the centre of the pound stretching out before me in one direction and the Flinders Ranges away in ››

Step to it: The Breakaways, just outside Coober Pedy

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the other that I can finally let the whole view just wash over me. It is, quite simply, stunning. We all take a few moments to let it sink in. From the top the vista is quite literally breathtaking (although, I suspect that might have had something to do with the climb). If you’re ever in need of a literal definition of the term ‘rugged beauty’ then the sloping mountains and rolling eucalypt forests of the Flinders Ranges – and Wilpena Pound in particular – is the perfect place to go and see it for yourself. Clark takes 18 photos from 18 separate cameras and, in that moment anyway, it feels like we’re on top of the world. We’re only a few days into our trip and this is the perfect icebreaker – a shared feeling of accomplishment and awe that prompts spontaneous hugs, high fives and laughter. Now we’ve just got to get back down…

Utterly epic Australia: (clockwise) Wilpena Pound; Kata Tjuta; Uluru

Going down Time, as one marks it usually anyway, seems meaningless down here. The darkness is the same when I close my eyes as it is when I open them again – have I been asleep an hour, a day, a week, a year even? From my bunk bed I can feel the grooves made by the diggers in the sandstone walls, feel the granules between thumb and forefinger when I rub them together. Craving water, I stumble about in the perpetual twilight – the stone floor strangely cool under my bare feet. I rip back the curtain dividers and shield my eyes suddenly against a single point of light, more than 50 metres ahead of me. One hand across my face I’m walking, stumbling towards the light. Slowly, gingerly, I hear voices, calling, laughing,

howling. My eyes adjust suddenly as I burst through, into the open and see the endless desert stretching away before me. Needless to say, spending your first night underground in Coober Pedy can be a slightly disorientating experience. If, one day in the future, mankind builds cities on the surface of the Moon or on Mars than I imagine they might look to bring along Coober Pedy’s town planner for the ride. From one of the few high spots in the predominantly flat, lunar landscape, a few single story buildings can be seen peeking above the red-earth surface. That’s because the vast majority of this town of over 1,500 inhabitants live underground. It is hard to talk about Coober Pedy without also talking about opals – this is the ‘opal capital of the world’ after ›› all and the precious mineral is the whole reason that a town exists here at all. Opal has been mined in this part of the world for nearly 100 years and, along with the associated tourism industry, provides the vast majority of Coober Pedy’s employment opportunities.

Man on the Moon

With tongues? Meet the shingleback lizard


Mining techniques have changed somewhat though in the last century, as we discover. We spend an hour or two fossicking for opals in a nearby cut, scrabbling through the turned earth with our bare hands, hoping to strike it lucky with a little nugget of colourful opal. All any of us seem to turn up is ‘potch’; common opal, which is worthless without the beautiful colours desired by jewelers. I take a few photographs though, including one of the first ever tree in

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Photos: SATC, John Milbank, Adam Bruzzone, Tourism Australia

the town, which is (fun fact) made entirely from scrap metal. The mineshafts and, as we would learn, almost all of the houses (or ‘dugouts’) are basically carved out of the living rock using giant machines. Once any and all the opal have been sifted and extracted, the miners then move in. For one thing, it’s much cooler underground than it is above the surface. Temperatures year round tend to stay in the low 30s, while in summer often rising into the 40s. Beneath the ground however the temperature stays at a very pleasant 23–25 degrees. While opals and mining is all truly interesting, the best part (for me anyway) of Coober Pedy comes at night. There’s something strangely life-affirming about drinking beers and dancing to John Mellencamp and Cold Chisel in a pub that is underground.

Ogling the Olgas Next on the agenda is crossing the border into the Northern Territory. Doc and Clark pull the bus over and let those of us who aren’t asleep off, giving us a chance to stretch our legs. We have been driving for hours now, in the pitch darkness. It is sometime after midnight and the desert air is crisp and cool – the darkness seemingly impenetrable but for the sparkling up above. The night sky in the Northern Territory is different, somehow, to anywhere else I’ve ever been – boundless, uninterrupted and completely alive with stars; millions upon millions of them, as far as the eye can see. As first impressions of a place go this is certainly one of the most humbling and beautiful.

Places like Uluru and, to a lesser extent I suppose, Kata Tjuta and even Kings Canyon have almost become clichés of themselves – a sort of international symbol of an Australia that so few Australians ever actually see. They are destinations now, used to lure tourists from all over the world into one of the more remote and, in many ways, inhospitable places on the planet. Yet to stand in the shadow of Uluru as the sun comes up and to watch its ancient surface, pitted and scared by the passage of millennia change from a kind of deep purple, through every shade of dark red to ochre orange is an experience you will never forget, of that I can assure you. So too is a trek through the Valley of the Winds in Kata Tjuta, a sprawling network of gigantic primordial domes that tower into a crystal clear sky, pristine and cloudless. To stand at one of the viewing points and stare out at Mt Olga rising up from the scrubby desert floor in the distance. Dinner on the last night in Alice Springs is a somewhat somber affair, because nobody really wants to go home. After a couple of glasses of wine though, the ‘Snake Man’ wanders into the restaurant and soon has us all holding various lizards, snakes and other reptiles. It’s a great, if slightly surreal, way to end a great journey up the spine of Australia, that is as beautiful as it is vast and completely unique. ❚ Details: Adventure Tours Australia run seven-day tours from Adelaide to Alice Springs, starting from $955.

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Darwinism This is Darwin in 48 hours Words Hugh Radojev

DAY 1:xDue to its unique â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in parts quite unfortunate â&#x20AC;&#x201C; history, Darwin has the distinction of being one of Australia's most modern cities. Australia's northerly gateway to Asia has become something of a hub for backpackers looking to enjoy the tropical climate and wonderful scenery on offer in the Territorial capital. 8:00 Drop your bags off at your home for the next 48 hours; Frogshollow Lodge ( and get yourself ready. Maybe take a dip in the pool or introduce yourself to the lovely staff, but don't take too long, there's so much to do in this little city. 9:00 Making the most out of Darwin is going to be hungry work so start the day off right with a trip to Roma Bar ( for breakfast. Got to love a place that gives equal love on the menu to smoked salmon croissants and a bowl of cereal. Plus it makes one of the best cups of coffee in town, so the locals say. 12:00 Time to get out on Darwin's beautiful harbour and see the city from the deck of a catamaran. City of Darwin Cruises ( offer four hour cruises with lunch and drinks included. Depending on the season you might be able to swim or sit in the cargo netting behind the moving boat. You can also go hunting for crocs caught in the traps along the mangrove swamps. 17:00 Chances are there's a weekend BBQ in full swing


back at base camp, but if you're feeling the heat a bit why not head out to Lake Alexander, an easy drive from the city centre. This man-made lake is a favourite in the warmer months as there are no box jellyfish floating around. 19:00 An aquarium experience like no other in the country is offered at Indo-Pacific Marine (indopacificmarine. with its entirely self supporting displays. The 'Coral Reef by Night' show is highly recommended. A beautiful seafood dinner is served while the lights are dimmed, allowing the sea creatures to revert to their more normalised, nighttime activities. After dinner take a guided walk through the aquarium checking out the exhibits. A must see! 21:00 Cap your first night in the Territory off with a few beers at the Fox'n'Fiddle in the party heart of Darwin; Mitchell Street. You'll have missed the crab racing by this time but it wont be too late to catch some live music or just hit the bar and relax into the evening. DAY 2: 9:00 Sort the hangover out with a visit to Relish Cafe in the Wharf Precinct. We recommend the green eggs and bacon with a strong black coffee. 12:00 It's time now to visit one of Darwin's biggest tourist drawcards. Crocosaurus Cove ( in the heart of Darwin has a whole host of reptilian themed thrills in store. Pet a baby crocodile or fish for a teenaged

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Try your hand at the didge

crocodile. There's a feeding platform you can stand on and lower bits of bait and other meat into a pool full of juvenile saltwater crocodiles who jump out of the water to get at the food. Or get lowered into a pool full of adult saltwater crocs in the so called 'Cage of Death'. 15:00 Time to leave the water and get into a little culture. Rent a bicycle and ride over to the Museum and Art Galleries of the Northern Territory (artandmuseums. which have a whole heap of different exhibitions and displays running throughout the year, comprised predominantly of locally produced art and photographs. 17:00 The waterways around Darwin are littered with ship wrecks and coral formations, so why not explore some with an afternoon dive? Cullen Bay Dive ( offer wonderful packages for groups or individuals. 20:30 It's been a long day so grab a bite at one of Darwin's most respected restaurants. Pee Wee's at the Point ( offers stunning views of the waterfront, a relaxed atmosphere and some of the best food in Darwin. 10:00 It's your last night in town so make it a good one. Tap on Mitchell Street should be the first stop. Enjoy a beer or two in the barmy evening breeze of the outside seating area. If you're in the mood to dance, put on your best party frock and head over to Throb Nightclub and mingle with Darwin's biggest characters. Sounds like a job well done.

Check out Mindil Markets

Croc cage of death

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Peak practice: a lone penguin hikes up an iceberg

Polar cruise

The MV Ushuaia 48

Antarctic verdict? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bloody cold

Photos: Andrew Westbrook


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The big white Towering icebergs, invigerating glacial waters, painfully cute penguin chicks... welcome to the bottom of the world Words andrew westbrook

when to go: Antarctic cruises only operate from The scene around me is a strange one. the eyeballs and assuming the recommended November to May because Lumps of ice float on top of the water and anti-nausea position staring at the horizon. otherwise the ice is too thick sub-zero winds are whipping viciously. And there I wait. At one point I notice sick for ships to sail through. On shore, meanwhile, one very confused bags have been Sellotaped to every inch of penguin waddles between piles of heapedFrom November to December, the boat. But then, halfway through day two, up clothes. Strangest of all are the humans. the best news ever arrives. “Conditions are iceberg and icescape shapes Near naked, they surround me. They’re excellent,” expedition leader Monika Schillat are considered to be at their trying to swim, but mostly they’re just informs us. “We’re making great time,” she most dramatic and the fares are swearing … very loudly. adds, before the final cherry on the cake: “So lower. December to February is The air, as well as our bodies, is turning great in fact that we’ll make our first landing, high season and best for seeing blue because we’re taking a dip in the ahead of schedule, tomorrow.” The grins start penguins and other wildlife, Antarctic Ocean and unsurprisingly, it’s to appear. while February to March is the bloody cold. Indeed, you’d survive about time to go for whale watching, Against the elements four minutes in these waters, but we’ve and last-minute discounts are no desire to test that limit. Barely able to easier to secure. Over the coming days, which now involve breathe and with the glacial waves lapping currency: $1 = ARS5.35. 24 hours of light, the landings come to like daggers against my flesh, I last less SEE: dominate our waking moments. The than 60 seconds before staggering back to anticipation is on another level and what Deception Island’s black volcanic sands. With to wear becomes a major part of the ritual. our Antarctic bath accomplished, a million-and-one layers are Should we squeeze into three pairs of socks, or four? frantically thrown back on and soon grins dominate every Most of us lump for basically everything we have. Think face. It’s a look we’ve grown accustomed to on our 10-day gumboots, multiple socks, thermals, trousers, waterproof expedition to the Great White South. trousers, more thermals, T-shirts, ice-breaker, fleece, ski ›› Crossing the Drake Getting here, which involved crossing the infamous Drake Passage, has been no small feat. I’m on board the MV Ushuaia, with 83 other passengers, having left its namesake Argentinian port a week before our icy plunge. The 500-mile stretch of water is renowned for being among the world’s roughest. Indeed, one travel agent had jovially informed me that getting sick on the Drake is “just the price you pay” for getting to see Antarctica. That had not been what I wanted to hear. The passage is named after English sea captain Sir Francis Drake, who passed south of Cape Horn in 1578, but sadly, my sea legs aren’t a patch on his. And so, filled with dread ahead of a potential two days of gut-wrenching seasickness hell, I wave goodbye to south Patagonia and the beautifully sheltered Beagle Channel, before getting drugged up to

Gentoo penguins

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jacket, scarf, hat and gloves. With a life jacket thrown in for good measure, it’s a miracle any of us can move, but move we do, like a hyperactive line of Michelin men, waddling ecstatically to the deck. With strict laws meaning no ship can land more than 100 tourists on Antarctica at any one time, we smugly congratulate ourselves on picking a ship with less passengers than that magic number and head towards the inflatable Zodiac boats, which will transport us to shore, 10 at a time. Minutes later, we’re pulling up at Yankee Harbour, on Greenwich Island in the South Shetlands. Lying 75 miles north of the Antarctic Peninsula, the weather that meets us is fierce. The 40-knot winds bluster while intermittent rain and snow beats down. But none of us care.

Chinstrap penguins

Penguin party Seconds after touching land, a couple of the island’s 8000 gentoo penguins swim up to greet us. Barely 70cm tall, and with red beaks that make them look as though they’re wearing lipstick, the gentoos are immediate stars. Sleek and streamlined in the water, our new best friends are an entirely different story on land. Put simply, it’s like they’re members of the Muppet family. They slip and stagger, flap and falter, the whole time looking lost in the world and completely bemused by our appearance. They approach us fearlessly, staring for long periods, heads cocked, before jumping off again, invariably falling on their faces. Calling them adorable just doesn’t do them justice.

About 7km from Ushuaia, hiking this icy peak is a fantastic free daytrip with incredible views of the area. Save your legs by jumping on the $13 chairlift.

For a few hours we wander happily among the gentoos, many of which have painfully cute week-old chicks. Bundles of thick grey fur, the chicks cower under their parents for warmth as we form our paparazzi lines just a few metres away. Nearby we also spot chinstrap penguins, similar in appearance to the gentoos, except with a perma-smile black line replacing the lippy, and some skuas, large seabirds that are the penguin chicks’ most dangerous predator. Despite the harsh conditions, we eventually head back to the Zodiacs, feeling totally exhilarated.

Maritime Museum & Ushuaia’s Old Prison

The great white

Escape the elements for a few hours and explore this exhaustive museum, packed with information on Antarctica and Ushuaia’s convict past, all set within the jail’s old cells (entrance $18).

Yet our elation proves short-lived. Next on the agenda is a sail south through the Bransfield Strait, which I now discover to my dismay is known as the “mini Drake”. Some passengers had previously expressed regret at not experiencing a notorious Drake storm, to which our assistant expedition leader, Agustin Ullmann, had replied they might change their minds once they’re in one. “It’s fantastic for the first 10 minutes, but 48 hours later you want to kill yourself,” he said. Well, the storm chasers now get their wish, as the Bransfield starts to throw its worst at us. More than a few of us throw quite a bit back at it. We wake, however, to a whole new world. Pulling up by the Hydrurga Rocks, ahead of us lies several days spent among the sheltered bays and channels off the Antarctic Peninsula itself. Everywhere we look, epic icebergs jut jaggedly into the skyline, penguins jump, dolphin-like, through the waters and huge seabirds, such as the 3m-wing spanned wandering albatross, prowl the skies. Venturing off the ship twice a day, we land at sites across the peninsula. At some, including Danco Island and Neko

BEST OF THE REST where else to explore in south patagonia Martial Glacier

Beagle Channel Satisfy your penguin withdrawal symptoms with a boat trip to a colony, which will also take you past sea lions and Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, plus include a visit to the historic Harberton Ranch (from $97).

Tierra del Fuego National Park Grab a £12 return bus ticket and spend the day hiking through more spectacular, windswept landscapes, just 12km from town (park entrance $17).

End of the World Train Take a ride back through time with a return trip on the world’s most southerly train, originally used to transport convicts (from $34) 50

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Ute Hohn-Bowen

The Insider's guide Ute Hohn-Bowen has over 20 years of experience in Polar tourism. She is a director of Antarpply Expeditions and an executive committee member of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators.

Harbour, we hike up the ice for panoramic views across the glistening continent. At others, such as Jougla Point, we get to admire the blubbery masses of Weddell, crabeater and elephant seals. Everywhere we go, thousands of penguins and their chicks are there to meet us. A stop at an Antarctic military station, the Chilean Gonzalez Videla base, is an unexpected highlight. Having not had visitors for a couple of months, the 13 residents are over the moon to welcome us, plus our largely Chilean crew, who hit the shore waving their flags and singing the national anthem. Soon enough, they’re handing out the Pisco sours and showing us around. Still, best of all are our trips on the water, zooming between the icebergs aboard the Zodiacs. At Neko, we chance across a group of dozing humpback whales, bobbing sleepily on the surface, one using its giant pectoral fin to maintain its balance as it drifts so close we could practically touch it. At the Melchior Islands we head out with blue skies all around us, but this time it’s the ice that is the star. As the sun glistens through the bergs and onto the pure Antarctic waters, we gape in awe at the kaleidoscope of blues, hardpushed to think of a more beautiful sight. It’s often said that while the wildlife brings people to the Antarctic, it’s the ice that brings them back, and now I understand. Which is why later, pulling myself from my sub-zero Antarctic bath and preparing for the journey back to South America, I’m ready to pay whatever price the Drake demands. ❚ Beds on board the MV Ushuaia’s 10-day Classic Antarctica Expedition start at $5048. Book direct with the ship at; For more information, see specialist tour operator Polar Cruises

What makes Antarctica so special? It is the last pristine place on Earth. It is the highest, driest continent in the world and it has a tremendous beauty. Combined with the wildlife, there is no destination that is better. How does it change throughout the season? The main difference is in the behaviour of the penguins. If you go early, from November, the penguins are coming ashore and building their nests. The eggs normally hatch from mid-December. January is the height of the season for activity. The chicks are out and the parents are taking turns going back and forth to feed. Towards the end of March, the penguins are returning to the water, but you still have beautiful sunsets and will also see more whales. What’s important to consider when choosing a ship? The most important thing is the category. Category one ships, with less than 200 passengers, can go to any landing site. However, only 100 passengers are allowed ashore at one time, so, for me, boats like the MV Ushuaia, with under 100 passengers, are still the best. Then you have the second category, with 200 to 500 passengers. They also land, but in less places and it’s the same system of rotating 100 people at a time. Then there are the 500-plus group, which are the large cruise liners, which can’t land anywhere. Finally there are the sailing boats. They are incredible but you need more time, maybe three, four, even five weeks. How risky is it to hold out for last minute deals? It’s a gamble. You could be here a week. There will always be somebody who has some sort of deal, but the Ushuaia, for example, is basically full for the rest of the season. My advice is to book earlier.

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ozLISTINGS travel agents Adventure Travel Bugs 07 3236 3266, Backpackers World Travel 1800 997 325 Peter Pans Adventure Travel 1800 669 424, Travellers Contact Point 1800 647 640, Tribal Adventure Travel 1800 984 484,

Bottom Bits Bus Tours around Tasmania 1800 777 103,

Maxi Ragamuffin Whitsundays sailing 1800 454 777

Bunyip Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 286 947,

Mojosurf Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 113 044,

Cool Dingos Fraser Island Tours 1800 072 555,

Nullarbor Traveller Tours from Adelaide and Perth 1800 816 858,

Explore Whitsundays Whitsundays packages 1800 675 790,

Ocean Rafting Whitsundays tours 07 4946 6848,

Mighty Cars and Campers (Formerly Backpacker Campervan Rentals) 1800 809 944

Oz Experience Hop on-hop off Australia-wide tours 1300 300 028,

Boomerang Cars 0414 882 559,

Surfcamp Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 888 732,

Hippie Camper 1800 777 779,

The Rock Tour Red centre tours 1800 246 345,

Kings Cross Car Market For buying and selling vehicles. 110 Bourke St, Woolloomooloo. 02 9358 5000,

Groovy Grape Getaways Tours linking Adelaide, Alice Springs & Melbourne 1800 661 177,

YHA Travel 02 9261 111,

tour firms

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Heading Bush Adelaide to Alice Springs outback tours 1800 639 933,

Adventure Tours Australia-wide tours 1800 068 886,

Jump Tours Tours around Tasmania 0422 130 630, Whitsundays packages 1800 677 119,

Kakadu Dream Kakadu tours 1800 813 266,

Under Down Under Tours Tours around Tasmania 1800 064 726,

Autopia Tours Tours around Victoria 03 9391 0261,

Kangaroo Island Adventure Tours Adelaide to KI tours 13 13 01,

Western Xposure WA tours 08 9414 8423,

Awesome Adventures Oz Whitsundays packages 1800 293 7663,

Kangaroo Island Wildlife Adventures South Australia 1800 786 386,

Wilderness 4WD Adventures Top end tours 1800 808 288,

Topdeck Tours covering all of Oz 1300 886 332,

Wildlife Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 661 730,

rental firms Apollo Motorhomes 1800 777 779,

Spaceships 1300 132 469,


transport co Greyhound Australia Buses around Australia. 13 20 30, Jetstar Airline. 131 538,

Premier Transport Group Buses along the east coast. 13 34 10, Qantas Airline. 13 13 13, Regional Express Airline. 13 17 13, Spirit of Tasmania Ferries to Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, 1300 789 059,

Tiger Airways Airline. 03 9999 2888,

Travellers Auto Barn 1800 674 374,

Redline Coaches For getting around Tasmania. 03 6336 1446,

Wicked Campers 1800 246 869,

Virgin Australia Airline. 13 67 89,

With great fares every day! . . . why not travel PREMIER class! Climate control air-conditioning • Experienced Coach Captains • Panoramic glare free windows • Comfy reclining seats Onboard video entertainment • Washroom • State of the art safety features • Seat belts

10% off

waiting for! u o y e r a t a Wh

if you have a genuine backpacker’s card

• Flexible travel on a budget to suit you • One, three and six month PaSSeS available • Daily ServiceS from Melbourne to cairns

MElbOuRnE • SydnEy • byROn bay • GOld COaSt bRISbanE • aIRlIE bEaCh • MISSIOn bEaCh • CaIRnS or phone 13 13 34 34 10 10 or ph 52

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sydney stay


Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD. 02 9267 7718

Waves Surf School

Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9281 6030

sydneymusic Hordern Pavillion

Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD. 02 9281 2222

Oxford Art Factory Sydney Opera House

Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505, Eva’s Backpackers 6-8 Orwell Street Kings Cross 02 9358 2185, City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333 Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. 02 9218 9000 Sydney Harbour YHA 110 Cumberland Street. The Rocks. 02 9261 1111 Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. 1800 013 186 Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross. 02 8354 0488, Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213

The Annandale

bounce sydney

28 Chalmers St, Sydney, Dorms from $30 You can’t get more central to Sydney life than this upmarket hostel, complete with a rooftop terrace to bring in summer nights.


Coogee Beach House 171 Arden St. Coogee. 02 9665 1162, Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511, Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee. 02 9315 7888, Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. 02 9692 8418, Boardrider Backpacker Rear 63, The Corso, Manly. 02 9977 3411 The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly. 1800 657 122,

Kangaroo Bak Pak 665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills. 02 9261 1111

Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411

Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach. 02 9918 9709,

Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371

Bondi Shores Level 1. 283 Bondi Road, Bondi

Wake Up! 509 Pitt St, CBD. 02 9288 7888,

Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street. Tamarama. 02 9365 2088, Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi. 02 9130 5063,

Taronga Zoo Mosman.

Powerhouse Museum Darling Harbour. Skydive the Beach Wollongong. Sydney Olympic Park Darling Harbour. Sydney Tower and Skytour 100 Market St, CBD. Sydney Harbour Bridge The Rocks. Sydney Aquarium Darling Harbour. Sydney Wildlife World Darling Harbour.

The Enmore The Metro

blue mtns Blue Mountains YHA 207 Katoomba St, Katoomba. 02 4782 1416,

central coast Newcastle Beach YHA 30 Pacific St, Newcastle. 02 4925 3544, Terrigal Beach YHA 9 Ocean View Dr, Terrigal. 02 4384 1919, The Entrance Backpackers 2/56 The Entrance Road, The Entrance, 2261 02 4334 5005 Skydive Central Coast Warnervale.

BYron bay Backpackers Holiday Village 116 Jonson St 1800 350 388, Backpackers Inn 29 Shirley St 1800 817 696 Byron Bay Accom 02 6680 8666, The Arts Factory 1 Skinners Shoot Rd. 02 6685 7709, Nomads Byron Bay Lawson Lane. 1800 666 237, Byron Bay YHA 7 Carlyle St. 1800 678 195 Skydive the Beach Byron Bay Kingsford Smith Park, Ballina 1800 302 005

coffs harb Coffs Harbour YHA 51 Collingwood St. 02 6652 6462, Harbour City Holiday Park 123 Pacific Highway Hoey Moey Backpackers 80 Ocean Pde Solitary Islands Marine Resort North St, Wooli NSW 1462 1800 003 031


sydney do Manly Surf School Manly Beach. 02 9977 6977, Maritime Museum Darling Harbour.

Lochner’s Guesthouse 8 Gowrae Ave. Bondi. 02 9387 2162,

My Sydney Detour Unique city tours.

Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee. 04 0817 6634,

Oceanworld Manly West Esplanade.

Whale Watching Sydney Fast Ferries not only offers a fast, comfortable and affordable alternative to the slow, old ferry terminals to get from Circular Quay to Manly, they also run excellent whale watching tours. For just $39 per person, they can guarentee that you will see migrating humpback whales between the months of May and November. Watch the whales play, jump and splash about in Sydney’s waters with Fast Ferries’ knowlegable team of experts. Visit for more information.

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follow us on Tin Billy Travellers 462 George St

brisbane stay Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711,


brisbane do

Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace. 07 3367 1157,

Australia Zoo Glasshouse Mountains, Tourist Drive, Beerwah. 07 5436 2000,

Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000,

Gallery of Modern Art 07 3840 7303,

Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433,

Riverlife Adventure Centre Kayaking & rock climbing. Lower River Terrace, Kangaroo Point. 07 3891 5766,

Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452,

Brisbane city backpackers

Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, 1800 682 865, The Deck 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm. 04 3377 7061 Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George & Herschel Sts. 1800 446 646

380 Upper Roma St, Brisbane. Beds from $21 The Brisbane City Backpackers offers more than just spectacular views. Comfortable, free WIFI and movie theatre, right on the Brisbane River.


Balmoral House 33 Amelia St, Fortitude Valley Brisbane City YHA 392 Upper Roma St Nomads Prince Consort Backpackers

230 Wickham St Somewhere to Stay Cnr Brighton Rd & Franklin St The Palace Backpackers Cnr Anne & Edward St

Story Bridge Adventure Climb 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point. 1300 254 627, storybridgeadventureclimb. XXXX Brewery Tours & Ale House Brewery tours. Cnr Black & Paten St, Milton. 07 3361 7597, au

gold coast Aquarius Backpackers 44 Queen St, Surfers Paradise. 1800 22 99 55,

@tnt_downunder Backpackers in Paradise 40 Peninsula Drive, Surfers Paradise. 1800 268 621, Coolangatta Kirra Beach YHA Pl, 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga. 07 5536 76442, Coolangatta Sands Hostel Cnr Griffiths & McLean Sts, Coolangatta. 07 5536 7472, Gold Coast International BP 28 Hamilton Ave, Surfers. 1800 816 300, Islander Backpackers Resort 6 Beach Rd, Surfers Paradise. 1800 074 393, Sleeping Inn Surfers 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise. 1800 817 832, Surfers Paradise Backpackers Resort 2837 Gold Coast Highway, Surfers. 1800 282 800, surfersparadisebackpackers. Surfers Paradise YHA Mariners Cove, 70 Seaworld Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise. 07 5571 1776,

A North Stradbroke Island Festival Package


a 3 day festival pass, camping accomodation, return transfers

Terms and conditions apply

Full details on how to win at 54

P r iz e va

$85 lue 0

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Great Barrier Reef Townsville

W H IT S U N D A Y S 3 DAYS IN ONE... Whitehaven Beach, top snorkel destinations & island bushwalks. P: 07 4946 6848



Airlie Beach (Whitsundays) Mackay Yeppoon Rockhampton

Gladstone Bundaberg Maryborough

Hervey Bay Fraser Island


Ask about our 2 trip special deal with our sister company OCEAN SAFARI -

Great Barrier Reef - Half Day Snorkel Tour

Terms and conditions: * To receive the discount international backpackers must hold a current passport with an international address. This fare type excludes domestic backpackers. # Receive up to 40% discount on economy seat adult rail fares. For more information or to book your Backpacker Rail Fares, visit or call 1800 872 467. Valid for travel until 31 March 2014. Queensland Rail Limited ABN 71 132 181 09 Travel Agent Lic. No. QLD 327 4957 QR3789.23_DL_0912.

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QLDLISTINGS Trekkers Backpackers 22 White St, Southport. 1800 100 004, Nomads Islander Resort 3128 Surfers Paradise Blvd, Surf & Sun Backpackers 3323 Surfers Paradise Blvd

gc do Dreamworld Theme park. Get Wet Surf School 07 5532 9907 Seaworld

Halse Lodge YHA 2 Halse Lane, Noosa. 1800 242 567,

rainbow beach Dingos Backpacker Adventure Resort 20 Spectrum St. 1800 111126,

Warner Bros Movie World Zorb 07 5547 6300

Palace Adventures 184 Torquay St, Hervey Bay, 1800 063 168 Barefoot Lodge Long Island Colonial Village YHA 820 Boat Harbour Drive, Urangan, Hervey Bay

Skydive Rainbow Beach 0418 218 358,

Cool Dingo’s Rainbow Beach 20 Spectrum St

hervey bay Aussie Woolshed 181 Torquay Rd 07 4124 0677

sunshine cst

Next at Hervey Bay 10 Bideford St. 1800 102 989,

Mooloolaba Backpackers 75-77 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba. 1800 020 120

Palace Backpackers 184 Torquay, 1800 063 168,

Nomads Noosa 44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Heads. 1800 666 237,

07 4120 1600,

Pippies Beach House 22 Spectrum St. 1800 425 356,

Wet ‘n’ Wild Water World

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fraser island Eurong Beach Resort

Dropbear Adventures Williams Ave, Fraser Island. QLD +61 487 333 606 Frasers On Rainbow Beach 195 Torquay Terrace, Torquay, Kingfisher Bay Resort River Heads Road, Fraser Island Fraser Coast Top Tourist Park 21 Denmans Camp Road, Scarness, Hervey Bay Fraser Island Backpackers Cathedral Beach, Fraser Island


Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd. 1800 24 22 73,

The Friendly Hostel 182 Torquay Rd, Hervey Bay

Bungalow Bay Backpackers Horseshow Bay. 1800 285 577,

Woolshed Backpackers 181 Torquay Road

bundaberg Federal Backpackers 221 Bourbong St. 07 4153 3711 Northside Backpackers 12 Queen St. 07 4154 1166 Bundaberg Bondstore Distillery tours. 07 4131 2999

town of 1770 1770 Backpackers 6 Captain Cook Dr. 1800 121 770, 1770 Undersea Adventures 1300 553 889,

airlie beach

mission beach Absolute Backpackers 28 Wongaling Beach Road. 07 4068 8317, Beach Shack 86 Porters Promenade Scotty’s Beach House 167 Reid Rd. 07 4068 8676, Jackaroo Hostel Mission Beach Frizelle Rd, Bingil Bay Mission Beach Retreat 49 Porters Promenade

cairns stay

Airlie Beach YHA 394 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 247 251,

Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353

Backpackers by the Bay 12 Hermitage Dr. 1800 646 994,

Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628,

Base Airlie Beach Resort 336 Shute Harbour Rd 1800 242 273,

JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642,

Magnums Whitsunday Village Resort 366 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 624 634

NJoy Backpackers Hostel Harbour 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055,



Pleasure Divers 07 4778 5788

Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589,

Adventurers Resort 79 Palmer St. 1800 211 522,

WWII forts including Magnetic Battery; a former Australian Royal Navy artillery battery and observation post.

Hotel Arcadia 7 Marine Parade, Arcadia Bay. 07 4778 5177, 259 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 677 119


Magnetic Island is situated 8km and a 20 minute ferry ride offshore from Townsville. Over half of the 52 square kilometre island is a national park and bird sanctuary. The island boasts several picturesque beaches and bays, accessible either by walking trails or by hiring a mini moke from the ferry terminal at Nelly Bay. Horseshoe Bay is the main tourist strip comprising bars, cafes, luxury resorts and hostels alike. History buffs will enjoy the islands

magnetic isl

Fraser’s on Rainbow 18 Spectrum Av, Rainbow Beach

Bowen Backpackers Beach end of Herbert St. 07 4786 3433

Magnetic Island


Adrenalin Dive. 07 4724 0600, Yongala Dive Yongala diving. 07 4783 1519,

Nomads Beach House 239 Sheridan St. 1800 229 228, Northern Greenhouse 117 Grafton Street. 1800 229 228,

cairns do AJ Hackett Bungy jumping & canyon swinging. 1800 622 888 Pro Dive 07 4031 5255 Raging Thunder Adventures Whitewater rafting. 07 4030 7990,

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Gold Coast

Famous for fun 04_731p 60-79 sections.indd 57 19/09/13 4:44 AM

QLDLISTINGS Skydive Cairns POBOX 105N Cairns 07 4052 1822,

cape trib Crocodylus Village Lot 5, Buchanan Creek Rd, Cow Bay. 07 4098 9166, PK’s Jungle Village Cnr Avalon & Cape Trib Rd. 1800 232 333,

Parrotfish Backpackers Resort 37 Warner St, Kuranda. 07 4099 5011,

gulf savannah Emu Creek Cattle Station 07 4094 8313

daintree Koala Beach Resort Cape Kimberly Rd. 1800 466 444


INNISFAIL IInnisfail Budget Backpackers Worker’s Hostel 125 Edith St. 07 4061 78337 Walkabout Motel & ackpackers 07 4061 2311

Mooloolaba Backpackers VIP 75 Brisbane Road

MORETON ISLAND Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort

atherton Kuranda Rainforest Park 88 Kuranda Heights Rd, Kuranda. 07 4093 7316,

port douglas


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Noosa Backpackers Resort 9-13 William St

NOOSA inland Ride On Mary Budget Bush Retreat

PORT DOUGLAS Dougies Backpackers Resort 111 Davidson St Global Port Douglas 38 Macrossan St au/port-douglas Parrot Fish Lodge 37 Warner St Port O’Call YHA 7 Craven Close


Dolphins Beach House 14 Duke Street, Sunshine Beach

Codge Lodge 63 Rankin St Crown Hostel 25 Ernest St (07) 4061 2266

Nomads Noosa Backpackers 44 Noosa Dr NOOSA inland

Innisfail Budget Backpackers 125 Edith St

Farm work, Innisfail 0437 692 002

agnes water 1770 Beachside Backpacker 12 Captain Cook Drive 1770 Southern Cross Backpackers 2694 Round Hill Rd

ROCKHAMPTON Emu Park Resort 92 Patterson St, Emu Park Rockhampton Backpackers YHA 60 Macfarlane St Childers Eco-Lodge Off the Princess Highway

STRADBROKE is Manta Lodge & Scuba Centre 1 Eastcoast Rd

SUNSHINE COAST Cotton Tree Beachouse 15 the Esplanade


TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Backpackers 79 Palmer St Civic Guest House Backpackers Hostel 262 Walker St civicguesthousetownsville. Foreign Exchange Accommodation - Beachside 19 Eyre St, North Ward

MACKAY Gecko’s Rest 34 Sydney St

MAGNETIC IS Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd Bungalow Bay Koala Village YHA 40 Horseshoe Bay Rd

NOOSA Noosa is located on Australia’s east coast and is home to several beautiful beaches, a stunning coast line, national park and pristine river as well as many events spread out over the calendar year. The list is endless when visiting Noosa, they range from visiting the world famous Eumundi Markets, shopping and dining on Hasting Street, soaking up the sun on Noosa beach or even going for a surf on some of Australia’s best surfing breaks, watching the sunset at Noosa River or spending the day cruising down the river. And it doesn’t stop there, the town offers visitors the chance to be pampered at a day spa, take a walk through the national park out to the headland or hire water equipment such as jet ski’s. It really is one of Australia best playgrounds.


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ACCOMMODATION IN 2009 & 2010!! 11-21 Gipps Street, Fortitude Valley Postal: PO Box 261, Fortitude Valley Qld 4006 P.1800 682 865 or +61 7 3257 3644

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follow us on Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. 1800 447 762,

melbourne stay


All Nations Backpackers Hotel & Bar 2 Spencer St. 1800 222 238,

Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611,

Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda. 1800 242 273,

The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108,

Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond. 03 9427 9826,

College Lawn Hotel 36 Greville St, Prahran

Habitat HQ

333 St Kilda Rd, St Kilda. Dorms from $26.50 Set in the beating heart of St Kilda, you’re close to just about everything. There’s a big common area for meeting like-minded people.

Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100,


Hotel Discovery 167 Franklin St Lords Lodge Backpackers 167 Franklin St Melbourne International Backpackers 204 Punt Rd, Prahran

$22 $ Back of Chapel 50 Green St, Windsor

Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697,


The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane. 1800 249 207,

Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212

Hotel Bakpak Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 1800 645 200,

Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500,

Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda. 1800 008 718,

Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. 03 9621 2523,

Claremont Guesthouse 189 Toorak Rd, South Yarra City Centre Budget Hotel 22-30 Little Collins St

Elephant Backpackers 250 Flinders St Elizabeth Hostel 490 Elizabeth St

King St Backpackers 160 King Street

Melbourne Metro YHA 78 Howard St Melbourne Oasis YHA 76 Chapman St

St Arnaud 99 Park St, South Yarra, The Spencer City Central BP 475 Spencer St

The Nunnery 116 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy Urban Central 334 City Road, Southbank

Victoria Hotel Backpackers Victoria Hotel, 380 Victoria St

Maximum 4 bed dormitories with linen and towel



FREE all you can eat breakfast (cereal, toast and j weekly meal, rice and pasta, tea and coffee

FREE in room oversized locker with personal MAKE YOUR DAY! COME TO THE power point


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Large bar with big screen (all major sporting events shown)


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Stay. Play. Melbourne.

2 $22 $24

Beds from $24 per night Monday to Thursday

Accommodation from $2 Accommodation from $22 a night (subject to availability) *Subject to availability

(subject to availability)

Maximum 4 bed dormitories with linen and towel FREE all you can eat breakfast (cereal, toast and juice), weekly meal, rice and pasta, tea and coffee


$22 $22

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19/09/13 6/08/13 9:10 4:50 PM AM

VICLISTINGS ST KILDA Back of Chapel Backpackers 50 Green St Base St Kilda 17 Carlisle St Coffee Palace Backpackers 24 Grey St Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Rd, Oslo Hotel 38 Grey St The Ritz for Backpackers 109 Barkly St St Kilda Beach House 169B Fitzroy St

melbourne do Australian Centre for the Moving Image Federation Square. 03 8663 2200, Melbourne Aquarium Cnr of Flinders St & King St. 03 9923 5999,

Discovery Melbourne 167 Franklin St. Melbourne Cricket Ground Brunton Av. 03 9657 8888

Melbourne Museum 11 Nicholson St, Carlton. 13 11 02 National Gallery of Victoria Federation Square. Old Melbourne Gaol 377 Russell St. 03 8663 7228, Official Neighbours Tours 570 Flinders St. 03 9629 5866, Skydive the Beach Melbourne 1300 798 843 Tourism Victoria Backpacking ideas. Wildlife Tours Australia Specialising in Victorian tours +61 3 9314 2225

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great ocean rd Anglesea Backpackers 40 Noble St, Anglesea. 03 5263 2664, Eco Beach YHA 5 Pascoe St. 03 5237 7899, Great Ocean Road Backpackers YHA 10 Erskine Av, Lorne. 03 5289 2508, Port Campbell Hostel 18 Tregea St, Port Campbell. 03 5598 6305, Surfside Backpackers Cnr Great Ocean Rd & Gambier St, Apollo Bay. 1800 357 263,

mornington Bayplay Lodge 46 Canterbury Jetty Rd, Blairgowrie. 03 5988 0188, Sorrento Foreshore Reserve Nepean Hwy. 1800 850 600, Sorrento YHA

3 Miranda St, Sorrento. 03 5984 4323, Tortoise Head Lodge French Island. 03 5980 1234,

dandenong Emerald Backpackers 03 5968 4086

murray river Echuca Gardens YHA 103 Av, Mitchell St, Echuca. 03 5480 6522, Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Ave, Mildura. 03 5022 7922, Oasis Backpackers 230 Deakin Av, Mildura. 04 0734 4251,

gippsland Prom Country Backpackers 03 5682 2614 Cambrai Hostel Maffra 117 Johnson St, Maffra. 1800 101 113


phillip island Amaroo Park YHA 97 Church St, Cowes. 03 5952 3620, The Island Accommodation 10-12 Phillip Island Tourist Road. 03 5956 6123 au

grampians Grampians YHA Eco Hostel Cnr Grampians & Buckler Rds, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4543, Tim’s Place 44 Grampians Road, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4288,

mildura Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Avenue

STRATHMERTON Riviera Backpackers YHA 669 Esplanade


st kilda The ultimate Melbourne beach-side suburb, St Kilda boasts all the hip cafes, bars and boutiques that make Melbourne oh-so-cool, then tops it all off with some killer views and relaxing vibes. Check out the St Kilda Esplanade Markets on Sundays and stroll the side streets for live music and rustic feeds. While the cold Melbourne winters may normally have swimmers shying away from the beach, the St Kilda Sea Baths provide heated indoor pools right on the waters edge for soothing dips all year-round. With Luna Park Melbourne lighting up the boardwalk, and St Kilda’s iconic local, Hotel Esplanade, keeping true to the grunge rock of Melbourne culture – St Kilda beats to it’s own drum.


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adelaide stay Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25,

eyre peninsula


Coodlie Park Farmstay Flinders Highway, Port Kenny.

Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. 08 8414 3010,

08 8687 0411 Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience

Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753,

Sea lion and dolphin swims. 08 8626 5017

Annie’s Place 239 Franklin St. 1800 818 011, Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295, Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889,

adelaide do Adelaide Oval Home to the Donald Bradman collection. War Memorial Drive. 08 8300 3800

Calypso Star Charters Great white shark cage diving. 08 8682 3939,

Shakespeare Hostel

123 Waymouth Street. Rooms from $25 The reigning champion of South Australia hostels, after being voted the state’s best at last year’s Golden Backpack Awards, top spot Shakeys has a huge amount of beds and a huge amount of features too.


Nullarbor Traveller Tours across to Perth.

1800 816 858 Adelaide Zoo Frome Rd. 08 8267 3255, Haigh’s Chocolates Factory tours. 153 Greenhill Rd, Parkside 1800 819 757, Temptation Sailing Dolphin swimming, Glenelg. 04 1281 1838

barossa val Barossa Backpackers 9 Basedow Road, Tanunda. 08 8563 0198, barossa

coober pedy Opal Cave Coober Pedy Hutchinson St. 08 8672 5028, Radeka Down Under 1 Oliver St. 1800 633 891, Riba’s Underground 1811 William Creek Rd. 08 8672 5614,

kangaroo is Kangaroo Island YHA 33 Middle Terrace, Penneshaw. 08 8553 1344 Vivonne Bay Lodge 66 Knofel Drive, Vivonne Bay 13 13 01


Port Lincoln Tourist Park

Berri Backpackers Sturt Highway, Berri. 08 8582 3144,

11 Hindmarsh St.

Harvest Trail Lodge Loxton. 08 8584 5646,

Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions

08 8621 4444,

Great white shark cage diving. 08 8363 1788

Nomads on Murray Sturt Highway, Kingston on Murray. 1800 665 166,

flinders ranges

Riverland Backpackers Labour Hire Services 08 8583 0211

Angorichina Tourist Village 08 8648 4842,

fleurieu pen Port Elliot Beach House YHA 13 The Strand, Port Elliot. 08 8554 2785

Wilpena Pound Resort Wilpena Rd. 08 8648 0004,

Photo: SATC


lake eyre Taking a guided tour to the lake around midday you will experience a true phenomenon, the lake surface can often become very flat. The surface then reflects the sky in a way that leaves both the horizon and water surface virtually impossible to see. Whether you want to be floating up with the clouds or keeping your feet firmly on the ground, Lake Eyre has it all. You can take a hot air balloon at dawn over the Barossa Valley or try hiking the Heysen Trail. The 1,200km track stretches from Cape Jervis on the south coast to Parachilna Gorge in the Flinders Ranges.

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NetRel N i w os

H 2 Bestwa 201 iN

BEACHES OF BROOME 4 Sanctuary Drive, Cable Beach. Beds from $28 Situated just a short stroll from the famous Cable Beach, Beaches of Broome is a contemporary, stylish resort luxury at an affordable price.


perth stay Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720,

ly weekials spec

Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge. 08 9227 6000, Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553, Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080, Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111, One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge. 1800 188 100,

Coolibah Lodge 194 Brisbane St Easy Perth Backpackers 4 Francis Street, Northbridge Grand Central Hotel Backpackers 379 Wellington St (08) 9421 1123 Hay Street Backpackers 266-268 Hay St Hotel Bambu Backpackers 75 - 77 Aberdeen St, Northbridge Mountway Holiday Apartments 36 Mount St Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottesloe

Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. 08 9287 3333,

Perth Beach YHA & Indigo Net Cafe 256 West Coast Hwy, Scarbrough

The Old Swan Barracks 6 Francis St. 08 9428 0000,

Planet Inn Backpackers 496 Newcastle St

Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge. 08 9228 3755, The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228,


Cheviot Lodge 30 Bulwer St

The Shiralee Hostel 107 Brisbane St, Northbridge Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Wickham Retreat Backpackers 25-27 Wickham St East Perth (08) 9325 6398

Backpack City and Surf 41-43 Money St

YMCA Jewell House 180 Goderich St

Beatty Lodge 235 Vincent St

1201 East Backpackers 195 Hay St

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WINNER BEST HOSTEL IN WA 2007 FINALIST 2008,2009,2010 & 2011

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WALISTINGS perth do Aquarium of Western Australia 91 Southside Drive, Hillarys. 08 9447 7500,

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Albany Bayview Backpackers YHA 49 Duke St 08 9842 3388,

Kings Park & Botanic Garden Perth Mint 310 Hay St. 08 9421 7223,

Billabong Resort 381 Beaufort St Perth. Dorms from $27 In a central location, near the heart of the CBD this hostel is comfortable, clean and secure not to mention that it has a pool!

Perth Zoo 20 Labouchere Road, South Perth. 08 9474 3551,

perth music Amplifier Astor Mojo’s Bar

The Bakery

The Rosemount Hotel

freo stay Backpackers Inn Freo 11 Pakenham St. 08 9431 7065,

Cruize-Inn 122 Middleton Rd. 08 9842 9599,

Perth, Western Australia Old Firestation Backpackers 18 Phillimore St. 08 9430 5454, Sundancer Backpackers Resort 80 High St. 08 9336 6080,

freo do

rottnest isl Rottnest Island YHA Kingstown Barracks. 08 9372 9780, Rottnest Express 1 Emma Place North Fremantle 1300 Go Rotto

margaret river


broome stay Cable Beach Backpackers 12 Sanctuary Road. 1800 655 011, Kimberley Club 62 Fredrick St 08 9192 3233,

monkey mia Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort Monkey Mia Road Monkey Mia 1800 653 611,

CORAL BAY Ningaloo Club Robinson St

ningaloo reef Blue Reef Backpackers 3 Truscott Crescent, Exmouth 1800 621 101,

Fremantle Markets Henderson Street Fremantle 08 9335 2515,

Margaret River Lodge YHA 220 Railway Tce. 08 9757 9532,

Ningaloo Club Coral Bay 08 9948 5100,

Fremantle Prison 1 The Terrace. 08 9336 9200,

Surfpoint 12 Riedle Drive Prevally 08 9757 1777

Excape Backpackers YHA Murat Rd, Exmouth. 08 9949 1200,

ESPERANCE Blue Waters Lodge YHA 299 Goldfields Rd,

EXMOUTH Pete’s Exmouth Backpackers YHA Cnr Truscott Cres & Murat Rd


MONKEY MIA Monkey Mia (pronounced ‘my-ah’) is located on the Coral Coast, about 850km north of Perth. It’s become famous for the bottlenose dolphins that swim to shore and interact with people every day. As a result it’s become fairly touristy, but if you’re keen to see the finned ones up close, you’d struggle to find somewhere better. The dolphin interaction started in 1964 when a lady from one of the nearby fishing camps befriended the creatures and today there’s now a pod of around 300 that live in the bay. This amazing beach is part of the Shark Bay World Heritage Area, and with its relaxed vibe, year-round sunshine, clear blue water and extensive wildlife, it’s the perfect winter escape. If you’re not planning on staying, make sure you drop by early in the morning as generally all the dolphin feeds are done and dusted by lunchtime.


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launceston do

hobart stay


Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St. 1800 811 507,

Cataract Gorge Centre for Beer Lovers Boag’s Brewery, 39 William St. 03 6332 6300,

Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. 03 6231 2660,

Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 2 Invermay Rd & 2 Wellington St. 03 6323 3777,

Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801,

Tasmania Zoo 1166 Ecclestone Rd. 03 6396 6100,

Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977,


Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400,

Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St, Hobart. Dorms from $22 Central City is an award winning hostel that is just minutes walk from all the major tourist attractions and facilities.

hobart do Cascade Brewery 140 Cascade Rd. 03 6224 1117 Mt Wellington Descent Bike tours. 03 6274 1880


port arthur Port Arthur Historic Ghost Tours 1800 659 101,

Salamanca Markets Every Saturday, Salamanca Place. Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 5 Argyle St.

launceston Arthouse Backpacker Hostel 20 Lindsay St. 1800 041 135,

Launceston Backpackers 103 Canning St. 03 6334 2327, Lloyds Hotel 23 George St. 03 6331 9906,

Tasman Backpackers 114 Tasman St. 03 6423 2335,

bicheno Bicheno Backpackers 11 Morrison St. 03 6375 1651, Bicheno Penguin Tours 03 6375 1333,

cradle mtn Discovery Holiday Parks Cradle Mountain Rd. 1800 068 574

Mt Roland Budget Backpacker Rooms 1447 Claude Rd, Gowrie Park. 03 6491 1385

cradle do Devils at Cradle Tassie devil sanctuary. 3950 Cradle Mountain Rd. 03 6492 1491. Overland Track Six-day walk

freycinet Iluka Backpackers YHA Reserve Rd. 03 6257 0115, Freycinet National Park Brewery, Wineglass Bay camping. 03 6256 7000

strahan, Strahan YHA 43 Harvey St. 03 6471 7255,

strahan do Four Wheelers Henty Sand Dunes quadbike tours. 04 1950 8175 Water by Nature Extreme multiday whitewater rafting. 1800 111 142,


Swansea About 90 minutes from Hobart lies Swansea, a laid back seaside area perfect for a little quiet time, swimming, diving and of course catching rays on the beach. The historical town overlooks Great Oyster Bay and Freycinet National Park, two of Tassie’s striking attractions. When visiting Swansea, stop by the Spiky Bridge, formed in the 1800s. The Spiky Bridge shows off the unusual convict heritage and not far from it, another interesting attraction to see is the Three Arch Bridge. Hiring a boat and heading out fishing is a popular choice for stay in the area, or perhaps just digging in to all of the fresh oysters and other catch of the day while relaxing by the water.

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darwin stay Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644,

katherine stay


BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park 20 Shadforth Road. 1800 501 984,

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St. 08 8981 5385,

Airborne Solutions Scenic helicopter flights. 08 8972 2345

Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250, Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437,

88 Mitchell Street, Darwin. Beds from $25.50 This independantly owned hostel in the heart of Darwin was recently voted the 7th best hotel in all of Australia. You won’t be left howling.

darwin do

Deckchair Cinema Jervois Rd, Darwin Waterfront. 08 8981 0700,


Fannie Bay Gaol Heritage prison. East Point Road, Fannie Bay. 08 8941 2260, Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory 19 Conacher St, Bullocky Point. 08 8999 8264,

Alice Springs Reptile Centre Meet and hold lizards. 9 Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 8900,

Nitmiluk Tours Gorge cruises and kayak hire. 1300 146 743

Dingo Moon Lodge

Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302,

Crocosaurus Cove Crocodile park and cage of death. 58 Mitchell St. 08 8981 7522,

alice do Alice Springs Desert Park Larapinta Drive. 08 8951 8788,

katherine do

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686,

Oz Jet Boating Stokes Hill Wharf. 1300 135 595, Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise Adelaide River. 08 8978 9077, Wave Lagoon Waterfront Precinct.

tennant creek Tourist Rest Leichardt St. 08 8962 2719,

Outback Ballooning Hot air balloon rides. 1800 809 790, Royal Flying Doctor Service Base Museum and operations room. Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 1129,

alice springs Alice Lodge 4 Mueller St. 08 8953 1975, Alice Springs YHA Cnr Parsons St & Leichhardt Tce. 08 8952 8855, Annie’s Place 4 Traeger Ave. 1800 359 089,

Haven Resort 3 Larapinta Drive. 1800 794 663, Toddy’s Resort 41 Gap Rd. 1800 027 027,

Palm Court Kookaburra Backpackers Giles St. 1800 626 722

Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365,


School of the Air Long-distance schooling museum. 80 Head St. 08 8951 6834, The Rock Tour Uluru tours. 78 Todd St. 1800 246 345,


WYCLIFFE WELL There’s no shortage of strange places to stop at when crossing the outback, but Australia’s UFO capital, about 380km north of Alice Springs, is definitely one of the oddest. Indeed, so often are flying saucers spotted in Wycliffe’s skies that it is supposedly the fifth most popular holiday destination for aliens in this world. Nobody’s quite sure why they like it so much although being near the secretive Area 51-like American military base at Pine Gap might play a part.


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ULURU Alongside the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, Uluru (or Ayers Rock) is the most iconic landmark in Australia. Known for being the giant rock bang in the middle of Australia, Uluru has attracted many a tourist to this culturally significant landmark. Sacred to the Aboriginal people, tourists are not encouraged to climb the rock but this is a must-stop destination for any traveller wanting to get the full Australian package. Make sure you pack your Akubra hat and sunscreen though because it can get pretty hot in the “Red Center” of Australia. You can explore the springs, waterholes, rock caves and ancient paintings, as well as the many native flora and fauna. It’s not a trip to Australia without visiting one of the landmarks that makes us famous!

Fly to Alice Springs from SYD/MELB from


one way with Tiger Air

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NZLISTINGS auckland Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. +64 9275 4443, Auckland International The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. +64 9307 0181, Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. +64 9300 9999, Oaklands Lodge (BBH) St. +64 5A Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9638 6545, Queen Street Backpackers (VIP) 4 Fort St. +64 9373 3471, Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. +64 9363 8889, YHA Auckland City Cnr City Rd & Liverpool St. +64 9309 2802, YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. +64 9302 8200,


Downtown Wellington Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. +64 4473 8482 Lodge in the City (VIP) 152 Taranaki St. +64 4385 8560 Nomads Capital 118 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237, Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 McDonald Cres. +64 4384 3041, Rowena’s Backpackers (VIP) 115 Brougham St. 0800 80 1414 YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. +64 4801 7280

christchurch Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. +64 3377 1897,

Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. Base Wellington 21-23 TNT-OZ-halfpage-Oct11.pdf 6/10/2011 +6413366 9720, 8:36:04 p.m. Cambridge Tce. +64 4801 5666

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Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546,

Hippo Lodge (BBH) 4 Anderson Hts. +64 3442 5785,

The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. +64 3381 5504,

Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. +64 3441 3922,

Backpacker Campervan & Car Rentals +800 200 80 801,

Tranquil Lodge (BBH) 440 Manchester St. +64 3366 6500,

Peterpans Adventure Travel 27 Shotover St Queenstown.

Bargain Rental Cars 0800 001 122,

Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. +64 3377 7931,

queenstown Base Discovery Lodge Queenstown 49 Shotover St. +64 3441 1185, Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286, Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. +64 3443 7341, Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. +64 3442 5494,

Pinewood Lodge (VIP) 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 7463 9663, Southern Laughter (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 728 448, YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street. +64 3442 7400, YHA Queenstown Lakefront 88- 90 Lake Esplanade. +64 3442 8413 bus tours Kiwi Experience +64 9366 9830

rental firms Ace Rental Cars 1800 140 026,

Darn Cheap Rentals 0800 447 363, Econo Campers +64 9275 9919, Escape Rentals 1800 456 272 Explore More 1800 800 327 Jucy Rentals 0800 399 736, Rent-A-Dent 0800 736 823, Rental Car Village +64 9376 9935,

Magic Travellers Network +64 9358 5600,

Spaceships 1300 139 091, 0900 62533,

Standby Cars 1300 789 059,

NZ Travelpass 0800 339 966,

Wicked Campers 1800 246 869,










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bungy jumping We’re pretty certain that no country can match New Zealand’s dedication to scaring its visitors senseless, which is why no trip to Kiwiland is complete without some form of scream-inducing adrenalin activity. There’s no shortage of weird and wacky thrills available throughout the country, but there’s no doubting that the purest, and arguably scariest, experience is good old fashioned bungy jumping. You can do a bungy jump in just about every NZ town nowadays, but the original fear factory is Queenstown. AJ Hackett runs various jumps in the area, including the world’s first commercial bungy, the Kawarau (pictured), plus the ledge jump, towering 400m above Queenstown, and of course, the daddy of them all, the 134m Nevis jump. While in town, make sure you also check out Shotover Canyon Swing. It may not match the height of the Nevis, but the unique jumping styles and, er, sadistic tendencies of the jump masters make it a match for any adrenalin activity in New Zealand.

With 45+ New Zealand hostels, you can skydive 134 metres in 8 seconds or plummet screaming on a bungy and still sleep soundly! YHA have got your accommodation sorted. Easy as.

r for yous n o i t a ture mod accom aland adven e New Z 191 ow: Book n ne 1800 242 o h Free p .nz book@ .nz .co or yha

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Jobs in the outback Way outback in a remote area of Western Australia, you’ll find beefed up jobs and even beefier pay packets

You wouldn’t normally expect to be earning $90,000 a year flipping burgers at a fast food joint out in the sticks. But that’s what one takeaway chicken chain manager is earning in natural resource-rich Karratha in north-west WA. The boost in earnings is due to the ‘resources boom’, which has had major effects on the Australian job market, especially in WA and Queensland. Bree Mitchelson, of Perth-based careers management company Skills Solution, says the thriving mining, oil, gas and construction industries are beefing up career opportunities — and pay packets — particularly in WA. “Demand for people is across all major fields — retail, hospitality and tourism, education and training, medical professions, accounting, legal, the list goes on,” she says. “The message for people thinking about heading back to Australia is: come home, Australia needs you. There are certainly some exciting career opportunities available,” Mitchelson says. But there are also lots of jobs for travellers.

Engineering, mining and construction For big job offers, this is the big sector. The resource industry


has huge demand as a result of numerous billion-dollar projects, particularly in WA. Sector experts say the demand for skilled workers in this industry doesn’t look like slowing down any time soon. And employers are willing to offer big bucks to entice staff. Due to a country-wide skills shortage, engineers, surveyors and geologists can land themselves packages higher than $100,000 a year. Mitchelson points out that graduate engineers are getting about three job offers in their final year of university, and some of these positions offer salaries of $80,000 or more. “Electricians and mechanical fitters are also big in demand,” she says. Other tradies, including boilermakers, welders and mechanics (particularly with experience on heavy vehicles), won’t have trouble finding work, especially if they are prepared to do fly-in, fly-out jobs in remote areas.

Teaching The current market for teachers in Australia is good. However, the job market situation is different from state to state because each education system is run by the state, not

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the federal government. Supply teaching is an option in most areas, but if you want something more permanent when you arrive in Oz it’s all in the timing, according to Daniel Mundy from recruiter ANZUK Teachers. If you’re looking for contract work, try hitting Aussie soil at the start of term, he advises. “Victoria has a particular need in Melbourne’s north-west, west and outer-west,” he says. WA also has a major shortage of teachers due to the resources boom. South Australia is in need of relief teachers, and Queensland needs teachers in country areas.

Photos: Getty Images

Medical and nursing Major capital cities and surrounding suburbs in all states need paediatric, orthopaedic and theatre staff. Experienced medical and surgical workers are also wanted. According to Hays Healthcare regional director Christine Wright, nurses can usually find work in all states, with UK experience looked upon favourably. Midwives, mental health nurses and registered nurses all appear on the Department of Immigration’s skill shortages list. Salaries range from $50,000 to $80,000 a year — depending


on the level of experience and particular state or territory.

Accounting, finance and banking Despite the credit crunch, Australia’s still looking good for those who want to work with managing and moving all that moolah around. Simon Tobin, from recruiter Michael Page Australia, reckons that for people moving Down Under, the skills shortage is good news. “That’s going to make it easier for people to get the job they want,” he says. Jobs firm Hays Global Link manager Rachel Baldy says assistant accountants at the $50,000-$70,000 level — both degree-qualified and undergraduates — are in high demand, while payroll candidates are in short supply. Auditors are top of the list for the professional practice market as there’s a shortage of them across Australia. Skills dealing with insolvency are also sought after, and accounting skills are in demand across the board with more vacancies than suitable candidates. Assistant accountants, payroll candidates, and those with experience in accounts payable and receivable are all in short supply Down Under. For more jobs head to

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who to blame

and their Favourite place in the world

Acting Editor

andrew westbrook (Coral Bay, WA)

Deputy Ed


Tash Levy (The Steyne Hotel)

aussie rules Surfing Quiz football which country is the Quicksilver Q 1.ProInheld? a) USA c) Brazil


Rory Platt (Luang Prabang, Laos)

Which is the smallest surfboard Q 2.length?


account manager

Justin Steinlauf (The OC)

georgina pengelly (New York City)

currently? a) John John Florence b) Brett Simpson c) Joel Parkinson d) Kelly Slater

sudoku puzzle

Hurt our knee gabbering to hardstyles music at Defqon in Sydney. Lame, we know Fought tooth and nail against the Immigration Department to stay in the Country. Studying English and that! Got up at 4am to cheer on Liverpool. Come on you Redmen!


5 2 1








“A redback”




8 5

b) 1982 d) 1970




a) 1960 c) 1966

which country? a) Phillipines b) USA c) Australia d) South Africa

been invented? a) Australia b) New Zealand c) Hawaii d) Brazil

what we did this Fortnight

8. What year did the first Endless Q Summer movie come out?

Q 9. Cloud Nine is the name of a break in

Q 5. Where was the sport said to have

design & production lisa ferron (Pittwater)

a) Mark Occhilupo b) Kelly Slater c) Andy Irons d) Taj Burrow

3. Where’s Teahupoo? a) Tahiti b) Indonesia c) Brazil d) Hawaii

Q 4. Who is the top ranked male surfer

marketing & events executive

6. Which country has the most number of surfers ranked in the top 10? a) USA b) France c) Brazil d) Australia

is the most successful surfer of Q 7.allWho time?

a) Mini-Mal b) Longboard c) Fish d) Shortboard

Business development Tom Wheeler (Norfolk – UK)

b) Australia d) South Africa


answers: 1. b 2. c 3. a 4. a 5. c 6. d 7. b 8. c 9. a

Hugh Radojev (Anywhere with a beach)









Don’t be afraid if you find one of these hanging around your dirty laundry, we’re not talking about the spider. It’s what Aussies call a $20 note. “Because it’s got a red back, aye?!”

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IP V access


+ + all areas



Airlie Beach 350 Shute Harbour Road P: 07 4946 6144

Brisbane City 452 George Street P: 07 3236 3266

Brisbane Valley 11-21 Gipps Street P: 07 3257 3644

Byron Bay 87 Jonson Street 02 6685 6100

Cairns 9-13 Shields Street P: 07 4041 6222

Mission Beach Wongaling Shopping Center P: 07 4068 8699

Noosa 13 Noosa Drive P: 07 5447 3845

Sydney City 790 George Street P: 02 9212 4444

Sydney Kings Cross 191 William Street P: 02 9380 2155

Rainbow Beach 12 Rainbow Beach Road P: 07 5486 3380

Melbourne Southbank 334 City Road P: 03 9693 3704

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3 Day 2 Night Adventure Sailing Trips offers guests looking for a smaller group size the opportunity to experience the Whitsundays. This tour will visit Whitehaven Beach, along with two or three snorkeling experiences on the fringing coral reefs which extend right from the edge of the islands and we have the best prices!

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a local Whitsundays government accredited operator. Our license is 3001478 and we have been proudly caring for our visitors for almost 20 years. Head to our facebook page ( for a chance to WIN A TRIP FOR 2 to Whitehaven Beach aboard the sensational Camira.

Kayak over the fringing coral reefs and explore tropical islands. For beginners to experienced we provide all snorkel gear including fruit and cheese platter.

FREE internet with all bookings - FREE bag storage - FREE upgrades to private double cabins on some boats For more recommendations and discount prices of overnight sailing adventures 259 Shute Harbour Rd, Top end of main street in Airlie, next door to Hog’s Breath Cafe

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