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October 1-7 2012 Issue 701



ISLANDS IN THE SKY The beauty and the brawn of Samoa

LEGS ELEVEN Gearing up for this year’s Rugby Sevens


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EDITOR’S LETTER Sharks. The word alone is enough to instil paralysing fear in even the most intrepid of travellers. And yet, as our writer found out (pg16), cage-diving with the great white maneaters is one of South Australia’s biggest drawcards. After something a bit more chilled? We’ve discover the state’s top ten places to see (pg6). Then chat to hipster-boy Angus Stone (pg26); and live the simple life in Samoa (pg40).









































The top ten things we love to love about South Australia, the forgotten state



Getting caged up and close to some real life great white sharks in Port Lincoln



One half of a famous sibling music act, Angus Stone strikes out on his own

BE MORE PACIFIC Traditional tattoo torment and easy island living – Samoa has it all






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EDITORIAL Editor Alex Harmon Staff writer Hugh Radojev Contributors Brad Barrett, Roderick Eime, Katie Spain Interns James Beasenvalle, Amelia Gray, Caitlin Stanway

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Account manager Justin Steinlauf Sales Executive Mike Ramsden MARKETING & EVENTS Business development manager Tom Wheeler DISTRIBUTION Lee Sutherland ACCOUNTS Financial controller Trish Bailey Accountant Hannah Waters

TNT MULTIMEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst PUBLISHER TNT Multimedia Limited PRINTED BY Rural Press NEWS AAP PICTURES Getty Images | Thinkstock | AAP | TNT Images | Tourism Australia | Tourism Victoria | Tourism New South Wales | Tourism NT | Tourism Queensland | Tourism Tasmania | South Australia Tourism | Tourism Western Australia | Tourism New Zealand | Tourism Fiji | COVER Calypso Star TNT Magazine , 126 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW 2008 General enquiries Phone 02 8332 7500 Fax 02 9690 1314 Email SALES ENQUIRIES

02 8332 7511



What was once a purely Bavarian expression of pride in a long and colourful history of producing beer has now become a month long excuse for us all to enjoy Germany’s best known export – its bier. Bavarian bier cafes have sprung up all over the country and are a good place to become acquainted with a wide selection of brews imported from all across Germany and neighbouring Austria. You’ll also stand an excellent chance of seeing a bunch of surly employees being forced to wear Lederhosen, which is always good for a laugh. Until October 7. Across Oz




Held just north of Perth, this festival is full of wholesome activities to celebrate the return of the summer weather. Markets, music, beach games and of course a little bit of light drinking fill the week long event which is now into its 54th year.

This is definitely one for the video gamers. Featuring representatives from all of the biggest video game producers in the world, the expo offers people the perfect chance to play up coming titles and watch new games being announced.

With the Rubgy League and AFL seasons winding down and the cricket still months away Australia’s domestic football league steps in to fill the breach. Added interest in the new season comes in the shape of Italian superstar Alessandro Del Piero.

Oct 5-13 Geraldton, WA

Oct 5-7 Sydney Olympic Park

Oct 5-7 Various, Australia


SEE for pick-up points

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers. Registered by Australia Post.

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Great southern land Underground towns, unforgettable wine, thrilling wildlife, festivals galore – South Australia’s other wonderment is the lack of tourists WORDS HUGH RADOJEV

Often overlooked by the adrenalinfuelled backpacker on the hunt for a crazy time, South Australia’s unfairly gained reputation as a dull place to visit has left the state being one of the forgotten regions of Australia. Despite briefly flirting with the idea of rebranding itself with a new name (some of the better suggestions floating around included ‘Bradman’ after the famous cricketer and ‘Gillardia’ after the current Prime Minister) South Australia’s natural abundance needs no repackaging – it speaks for itself. While it may not blow its own horn as much as some of the other,



more glamorous states, it doesn’t take long to realise that South Australia has plenty to offer backpackers, whether they’re after no-holds-barred excitement or a bit of peace and quiet. The beautiful capital of Adelaide, known as the city of churches, comes alive at night with one of Australia’s fastest emerging bar and club scenes. Yet the states largest city contains but a fraction of the wonderful things that can be experienced down south. Whether its surfing on the Yorke Peninsula, swimming with great white sharks in Port Lincoln, sampling wine in the Barossa or mining opals in Coober

Pedy, Australia’s unassuming state has plenty of tricks up its sleeve. We like to think of South Australia as something of a traveller’s secret, based mostly on the fact that it is so underrated by the vast majority of people who visit Australia. So we’ve decided to bring you up to speed with the top ten things to see in the state. In fact, this week marks the first in our month long celebration of all things South Australia. So slap on a little sunscreen, limber up your drinking arm and choke down your cod liver oil because things are going to get real. Yes, really real.


55 Frome St Adelaide | Ph 8100 4400


9 Jerningham St North Adelaide | Ph 8334 7799


146 Melbourne St North Adelaide | Ph 8334 7766


Marryatt St Port Augusta | Ph 8648 9000





Of all Australia’s state capitals, Adelaide arguably enjoys the most beautiful of settings. Nestled between the majestic Adelaide Hills on one side and the crystal blue waters of the Gulf St Vincent on the other, few cities can match Adelaide for picturesque natural beauty. It is also fast becoming the culinary capital of Australia with a huge number of wonderful restaurants, wine bars and gastro pubs. Lying between some of the country’s best vineyards and pristine natural coastline full of fresh seafood, the level of produce on offer is up there with the best to be found anywhere in the country.

South Australia is known colloquially around Australia as the ‘Festival State’ and the Adelaide Fringe Festival is one of the biggest in the country. In the last three years, the Fringe has expanded more than 60 per cent, drawing in 1.5 million visitors to Adelaide in 2012. The Fringe’s huge success lies in its openness – both in terms of its acts as well as its venues, which are spread throughout Adelaide’s CBD. The state also offers internationally renowned food and wine festivals such as the Gourmet Traveller, the international music festival WOMAdelaide and the Santos Tour Down Under, a festival of international cycling which also doubles as part of the competitive world tour, and has a huge attendance.

DID YOU KNOW? Adelaide has been voted the most livable city in Australia on two occasions (and by extension one of the most livable cities in the world) in 2011 and 2012.

DID YOU KNOW? The Fringe Festival in Adelaide started all the way back in 1960 and featured less than ten performing acts.

PORT LINCOLN BY AMELIA GRAY Port Lincoln is located on the South Australian coast. It can be described as a blue water playground for yachting, scuba diving, shark cage diving, water sports and tuna fishing in particular. It is also known as the ‘Seafood Capital of Australia’. Along with seafood, Port Lincoln offers wine tasting tours at local wineries including Boston Bay and Delacolline Estate. For the outdoorsy-type there is Lincoln National Park, where you can engage in activities such as bushwalking, camping and fishing which covers the southern tip of the Eyre Peninsula. It also has an abundance of birdlife and native animals, scenery along with a 4WD track which leads to Memory Cove. It is also rich in film trivia, with some of the scenes from Jaws filmed nearby.

DID YOU KNOW? Port Lincoln was close to becoming the state capital of South Australia but due to its lack of reliable nearby water supply Adelaide was chosen instead.




SOUTH AUSTRALIA If you’ve climbed the bridge, circled the rock and snorkelled the reef... it’s time to do the stuff that other people are only just beginning to discover… diving with Great White Sharks, swimming with sea lions and dolphins, getting up close and personal with wildlife on Kangaroo Island or camping under the stars in the amazing Flinders Ranges.




If you want to get away from the crowds for an authentic Australian experience it’s time to come to South Australia.

THE WINE REGIONS South Australia’s wine regions (Adelaide Hills, Barossa, Clare Valley, McLaren Vale) are known internationally as some of Australia’s best. They are also some of the most varied regions for the production of wine. The rich soil and temperate climate offer wonderful conditions for the growing of a wide variety of grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Riesling, Chardonnay and even the odd Sauvignon Blanc. The Adelaide Hills are only a short drive from the capital and offer a wide range of cellar doors to tour and are, perhaps, the best place to start exploring the region’s wine gems. The Barossa Valley is one of Australia’s oldest wine producing regions with the first vineyards in the area planted in the middle of the 19th century. They’re also known for producing a Shiraz of great depth and character. The Clare Valley, which lies 120km north of Adelaide is one of the smaller wine producing regions and yet is still internationally recognised for its Riesling.

DID YOU KNOW? The Clare Valley, despite producing only two per cent of Australia’s total amount of wine, wins close to ten per cent of total wine awards.




This is one of Australia’s best-known outback towns. Named after the Aboriginal word, which translates roughly to ‘white man’s hole in the ground,’ is a fairly apt description as over half of the town’s population live underground. This is due to the area’s extreme weather with some summer days tipping 50 degrees Celsius and nights in winter dropping below freezing. The town is also known as the ‘Opal Capital of the World’ a fact represented by one of Coober Pedy’s better known above ground monuments, The Big Winch. Indeed, the identity of the whole town is closely linked to the mining of opals with some of its best known attractions revolving around the mining of these precious stones. There is an opalmining museum as well as the chance for people to mine their own opals in supervised mines. Coober Pedy also has its very own golf course, with 18 hole rounds being played almost exclusively at night with glowing balls. Due to the lack of grass on the course, players must carry around their own piece of turf on which to tee-off. That’s certainly not a feature offered at St Andrew’s or Augusta.

Once considered the most lawless and vicious place in the British Empire, Australia’s third largest island now offers a wonderfully picturesque getaway full (as the island’s name suggests) of numerous native flora and fauna. An absence of dingoes, foxes and other carnivorous predators on the island has seen the numbers of wallabies, bandicoots, penguins, possums and, of course, kangaroos flourish across the island. Koalas and platypuses too have found a home on the island, having been introduced in the 1920s. Take the 45 minute ferry from the mainland where you’ll be treated to a huge range of water sports and other aquatic activities for visitors including scuba diving, snorkeling, surfing and fishing. There are around 230 species of fish living in the shallow waters around the island’s coast, 60 shipwrecks to explore, soft and hard coral formations and a high chance of meeting dolphins, sea lions and seals on every dive. The main town on the island, Kingscote is a good base from which to explore the rest of the island and has plenty of cars and motorbikes for hire as well as numerous guided tours.

DID YOU KNOW? Coober Pedy’s football team, the Coober Pedy Saints, make 900km round trips to play their games on the weekends.

DID YOU KNOW? Kingscote, the island’s main settlement was first established in 1836, making it the first official settlement in South Australia, outdating even Adelaide.


2 D AYS/1 YS/1 NIIG GHT Includes: t Two days touring with expert commentary t Attractions such as Seal Bay, Little Sahara, Remarkable Rocks, Admirals Arch and Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary t Guided nocturnal penguin walk t Overnight dormitory accommodation t Includes 1 breakfast, 2 lunches and 1 dinner




Call 08 8202 8678 or visit *Conditions apply. Offer valid until 31st March 2013. Must quote TNT at time of booking to receive offer. Regular price is $389pp. ABN 69 007 122 367. Lic No. TTA 64062.





Whether you looking for an adventure or some down time, the Flinders Ranges, which are the largest mountain range in South Australia, have it all. You can choose to unwind with a cold drink in hand whilst staying in one of the luxury ecovillas after a days work on an Outback station. Or there are bushwalking tracks spread across the rugged landscape with the opportunity to engage with the Aboriginal culture by exploring ruins and visiting ghost towns. The most interesting of these is Dawson, about 24km top the north east. You can also check out rock paintings and carvings. If you can’t afford a scenic flight over the Wilpena Pound when visiting the Flinders Ranges, then you must at least do the walk along the edge of the vast salt lake, Lake Eyre. Another little spot worth seeing is Quorn. The picturesque town on the edge of the Flinders Ranges boasts unspoiled streetscapes, heritage buildings and views of the nearby rugged landscape.

If you want to get out of the city in search of sun, sea and sand, the Yorke Peninsula is the place to go. Being just over an hour’s drive from Adelaide, the postcard worthy beaches will take your breath away. With a distinctive 700 kilometres of coastline, it’s easy to find the perfect beach spot and let your worries melt away. The Yorke Peninsula can also brag about having some of Australia’s greatest surfing beaches with many well known surfing and body boarding competitions held over there. If you are a beginner or an experienced scuba-diver or snorkeller there are numerous scattered shipwrecks, reefs and unspoiled ocean waters to discover – some are even maritime Heritage listed. In 1919, World War One pilot and aviation pioneer, Captain Harry Butler, made the first airmail flight from Adelaide to the Yorke Peninsula. He was the first man to fly across St Vincent Gulf and the first to fly over water in the southern hemisphere.

DID YOU KNOW? Quorn has seen a number of famous Australian movies shot on location, including several scenes from Peter Weirs’ iconic 1981 film Gallipoli.

DID YOU KNOW? Captain Butler’s Red Devil Bristol monoplane rests in a display hangar in Minlaton. It is believed to be the only genuine one of its kind left in the world.

MURRAY RIVER The once majestic colonial highway that linked NSW and Victoria with South Australia has, in many places, suffered badly from insufficient flow, a build of phosphates in the water and high saline levels which has seen much of the river dry up or fall to extremely low levels. Many parts of South Australia’s Murray Basin still highlight the river’s once great majesty – one can still ride the steam powered paddleboats, which have cruised up and down the Murray for the best part of two hundred years. The river also provides some great fishing spots where anglers can try and catch the readily abundant schools of European carp. Wakeboarding and water-skiing are popular water activities, or if you’re with a group, renting a houseboat represents an affordable and fun way of exploring the Murray’s winding meanders.

DID YOU KNOW? The town of Waikerie just off the Stuart Highway and right on the Murray’s banks sees more sunshine a year than the Gold Coast.



LAKE EYRE BY AMELIA GRAY Taking a guided tour to Lake Eyre around midday you will experience a true phenomenon – the lake surface can often become very flat. The surface then reflects the sky in a way that leaves both the horizon and water surface virtually impossible to see. Whether you want to be floating up with the clouds or keeping your feet firmly on the ground, Lake Eyre has it all. You can take a hot air balloon at dawn over the Barossa Valley or try hiking the Heysen Trail. The 1,200 kilometre track stretches from Cape Jervis on the south coast to Parachilna Gorge in the Flinders Ranges. If being in the water is more your thing, you can dive through the wreckage of navy destroyer, ex-HMAS Hobart. A popular trail is to take the Underwater Heritage on Gulf St Vincent. This trail links four of the most historic wrecks: the Grecian, the Zanoni, Star of Greece and Norma which all sank between 1841 and 1893. While Lake Eyre remains the most famous and best known there are a number of other, similar salt lakes in the surrounding area, including Eyre’s little brother Lake Hart, which is located very conveniently right next to the Stuart Highway. These large, backing salt flats have become something of an Australian outback icon.

DID YOU KNOW? If you’re keen to tell you friends that you have indeed been to the lowest point in Australia as well as the largest lake in Australia and 18th largest in the world, you will only have to head to one place: Lake Eyre.

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UNLEASH THE ADVENTURE! WIN A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN EXPERIENCE SEE ALL THAT SA HAS TO OFFER! Even though South Australia doesn’t have an iconic Harbour Bridge, or a mystical Uluru to put it on the map, the unassuming state doesn’t lack in things to do. Winning in the beauty department, similarly in the adventure stakes, the state boasts some of the country’s best wildlife experiences, tastiest wines and spellbinding landscapes. You’d be crazy to skip on past South Australia while you’re here. Luckily for you, even if your bank account is dwindling, that need not be an option. We have teamed up with some of the state’s best adventure travel providers to offer three lucky readers this massive series of prizes, worth a whopping $5,600 We’re offering one lucky reader and a friend the following prizes: 14


GRAND PRIZE WORTH $3,028 Return flights from your nearest capital city to Adelaide by the South Australia Tourism Commission – $1,000 value. Calypso Star Charters Port Lincoln, two shark cage dives – $990 value. Sealink Kangaroo Island. Kangaroo Island adventure tour for two – value $778. Majestic Minima Hotel Adelaide. Two nights free of charge - $260 value. RUNNER UP PRIZE WORTH $1,600 Nullarbor Traveller. Three day southern wildlife encounter package for two - all meals and accommodation, four of the top wildlife encounters in Australia: get up close with the local sealions, dolphins, tuna, great white sharks, koalas, kangaroos and emus (activities at additional cost) – value $1,430 value.

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Total prizes over WILDLIFE worth SOUTHERN OCEAN


ADVENTURE - 3 DAY TOUR Tour Highlights Include:


CJAA6G7DGIG6K:AA:G Adventures between Adelaide




The Eyre Peninsula SOUTH AUSTRALIA



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Great Australian bite On South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula the truly game have the chance to go head to head with the local AC/DC-loving great white sharks WORDS RODERICK EIME

Photos: Roderick Eime

The enormous chunk of tuna flesh bobbed adult great whites glide effortlessly past in DAMAGE: The six-day on the end of the line supported by a small search of the tuna bait dangling rather too close ‘Secrets of Eyre Peninsula is with foam ball. Matt ladled great gobs of minced for my liking. That lifeless, inexpressive eye is Nullarbor Traveller. ’ The tour gills and guts onto the surface creating a includes Flinders Ranges, Coodlie a porthole to a tiny brain pre-programmed for lumpy, letterbox red slick just behind the one task only. A ladle of guts excites them and Park Farm Retreat, a surf lesson boat. Then he struck. they’re now intent on the juicy prize. Mouth and tuna swim. the-traveller. We’d seen his ominous black shadow agape and on target, Matt jerks the bait away Calypso Star Charters patrolling beneath us like a menacing at the last minute but the shark lunges again shark cage dive is from $495. midget submarine probing for a weakness, taking the chunk whole, thrashing heavily but nothing prepared us for what happened STAY: A double room at the against the cage’s already dented structure. The next. In a heart-stopping explosion of water around us is full of bubbles and froth Port Lincoln Hotel from $150/n. gaping crimson jaws filled with rows of razor Beds at the Port Lincoln YHA start both from the shark’s turbulent antics and our sharp teeth, the 5 metre, 1000kg monster combined hyperventilation. “Mmmerrh!” I from $35/night. breached its full torso out of the water in scream incomprehensibly into my mouthpiece. DETAILS: Head to a triumphant display of total dominance. and click on Meeting Jaws Gotcha! the ‘adventure’ tab Underwater, the view is even more Moose, a 5m male great white shark, is a terrifying. The seemingly flimsy aluminium cage appears barely strong enough to withstand the fury of this consummate killing machine. Those who remember the Jaws trilogy will recall the complete inadequacy of the metal sanctuary and in no coincidence, many of the scenes that employed live sharks as stunt doubles to the mechanical star were filmed in these very waters. Rodney Fox, the famous diver who displays gruesome body décor courtesy of the great white, is moored alongside with his own clients. The cage is tethered to the stern with tough mooring lines and divers enter via a manhole in the top. Air is surface fed via a compressor and up to four ‘clients’ squeeze together in a tantalising clump that draws hungry and inquisitive gazes from the circling creatures. Our feet are hooked under a rail in the floor and we cling nervously to handles arranged around the sides while surveying the waters for sharks through viewing holes which strike me as overgenerous. Suddenly there’s a tug on my shoulder and a rubberised finger jabs frantically into the gloom. That famous theme tune plays in my mind as a dark shadow slowly morphs into a full size predator with a very determined purpose. Are you sure he can’t get in? For thirty minutes we watch totally awestruck as three



Blood on the tracks

regular visitor off Neptune Island at the very end of South Australia’s Gulf St Vincent and is identified by the red tag applied by Andrew as well as the multitude of battle scars. The nearby Australian Sea Lion colony keeps the carnivorous monsters hanging around, preying on some of the four thousand pups born here each year. Andrew and Matt operate Calypso Star Charters, currently one of three licensed operations, from nearby Port Lincoln and are regularly booked out months in advance.

Cages in the pages Shark cage diving is not without its critics. There is one school of thought that advocates a total ban on the practice, particularly that which involves ‘chumming’, as described above. The West Australian Government is not having a bar of it and has moved to pre-emptively outlaw shark cage diving in light of a recent rash of attacks on surfers and swimmers in that state. Research done by the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO) at shark cage diving sites in South Australia found that chumming kept sharks 18


We put a speaker in the water and play AC/DC and they come around

in an area for longer, but could not prove a link between chumming and attacks on humans. This year, the licensing of SA shark cage diving operators came under close scrutiny and at one point the whole ‘sport’ was in jeopardy. Matt Waller, a fourth generation fisherman and founder of the tuna swimming phenomenon, has won awards for what he calls “Australia’s first advanced eco certified shark cage diving experience” where, instead of splashing blood and guts into the water, he plays AC/DC through an underwater speaker. The curious sharks gather and appear less aggressive and less prone to attack. “We put a speaker in the water and play AC/DC and they

come around. They like Back in Black, You Shook Me All Night Long, and Spiderbait’s Black Betty works really well,” said Matt in an interview with The Australian, “Talking Heads’ song Sax and Violins makes them jump out of the water.” After the jaw-dropping exploits of the great marine marauders, those not totally spooked don wetsuits for a serene swim with the sharks’ preferred foodstuff. The playful pups and young adults are almost jumping out of their skin in anticipation and are quick to engage in exuberant interaction when the swimmers enter the water. The mammals swirl and twirl in an aquatic ballet around their hopelessly inept and oversize playmates, yet display a generous tolerance that keeps us entertained for over an hour. It’s tragic to recall this delightful naivety was repaid with lethal consequences when both British and American sealers plundered the happy herds to near extinction in the 19th century. Even today the species are still listed as rare and endangered.

Tuna sandwiches Back in Port Lincoln, there’s a visit to Matt Waller’s tuna farm and again we’re in the water, this time hand-feeding his baby (20kg) Southern Blue Fin. The tuna swimming idea came about some five years ago when Matt thought it would be cool to take a dip in one of the massive pens used to corral the fish and fatten them to market weight. During the short ride on Matt’s launch out into the bay, he’ll enlighten you on this modern form of fish farming where schools of wild tuna captured in giant circular nets and towed – very slowly – back to port. Now you can dive in and tempt the massive, lightning-fast demons with a tiny bait fish which they will whip out of your hand before you have time to flinch. So whatever your aquatic thrill, Port Lincoln at the tip of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula can deliver the serene or the scary, you choose – or just do it all! ❚



THE SUICIDE THREE As if the shark dive isn’t enough, add on a sealion swim, surfing lesson and sandboaring adventure. Because all good things come in threes, writes Andrew Westbrook...

The ‘suicide three’ is a tempting-sounding trio and a full-on day that leaves your adrenal glands aching as much as your muscles. While I’ve been lucky enough to swim with dolphins in half a dozen different places, sea lions, I’ve been told time and time again, are the coolest cats when it comes to some underwater interaction. So in we jump to the bay’s undeniably icy waters, treading water in a natural pool by the nearby sea lion colony. And luckily, due to some serious shivering, we don’t have to wait long. Just as I’m pondering the symptoms of pneumonia, our first playmate speeds inquisitively through the perfectly-clear waters towards us. They swim under and around us, spinning and swiveling, twisting and turning. It really is incredible. With their gentle faces and big, friendly eyes, they genuinely seem to want to play with us (or at least laugh about how rubbish we are in the water), hanging around for much longer and coming much closer than dolphins generally do. While the privilege of seeing and swimming with dolphins in the water will never get tired, they’re no match in the personality stakes for the sea lions, who, like the perfect party host, seem determined to make sure we never get bored. Next up is our surfing lesson. After a few pointers on trying to master “the snap”, we’re released into the blue room for our chance to try and hang 10. Cue several near drownings, an arm straining workout and some brilliantly glorious, if very brief, moments actually stood up. Despite my muscles screaming for mercy, I’m immediately hooked. But soon our time is up and we head to the final leg of the Suicide Three – sandboarding. Turning a corner, the South Australian landscape is transformed into the Sahara and we’re met by a series of soaring sand dunes. We’re soon clambering up the sand, boards under our arms, only to fling ourselves back down screaming our heads off. It’s a lot of fun, but the walk back is a killer, and coming straight after surfing we can only manage a few goes each before slumping back into the dunes to just catch our breath and admire the sandswept panorama.



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Andrew Levins The Sydney DJ and owner of GoodGod Club’s diner, The Dip, has written his first cookbook. He tells us how it came about, how to fry Coke, and what to cook when you’re really broke INTERVIEW ALEX HARMON

“To impress nobody, iron your own cheese sandwich”

things in fine dining, then why can’t I try and do my take on it with fast food? When we grill watermelon for a salsa, we cut these big strips of watermelon and I used to think it looked like a piece of steak or salmon. So I started marinating it and putting it on a sandwich with bacon. Now it’s one of our most popular menu items. The sweet and the saltiness is a great combination. What’s the weirdest thing you’ve eaten? The best weird thing I ever had was in Japan, which was raw chicken and that is something that I would never try and recreate. Think of the best raw fish you’ve ever had and this raw chicken is even better than that.

What made you write a cookbook? Well I was DJing, which is what I used to do before, and I had just finished my set and I was sweaty and gross and about to head home when I was tapped on the shoulder by a lady. She said ‘I really like your restaurant, I’d like you to write a cook book for me’. I was like okay and gave her my card. Surprisingly enough she got in contact with me later that week. I signed a contract in November and finished the book in January, which isn’t very long.

go hand in hand – you can do one while doing the other.

Who are you writing this book for? Well it’s an entertaining book and the majority of the recipes are pretty simple and there’s a fun story behind every one. Be it the time I ate something when I was hungover, or hot dogs named after rappers and DJs and why. Really cool, fun shit.

What do you cook when you’re trying to impress a girl? The thing is, my girlfriend brought out the foodie in me. When we first started dating I remember making things like a pasta dish with all of the weird things I had in the fridge. And she was really impressed by that, so then she would try and impress me and we’d one-up each other.

Are you still a DJ? Yes, I am four nights in the kitchen and then I DJ on Friday and Saturday nights. And I also run a children’s music charity, Heaps Decent, which brings music to underprivileged kids. What’s more satisfying? Cooking or music? I think the combination of the two. I think they



What is your signature dish? In the book my favourite dish, and it’s always been my favourite, is the pulled pork sandwich. I was in Memphis with my family when I was 12 and at that point it was the greatest thing I had ever eaten in my entire life. It’s an unbelievably, soft, beautiful, smoky pork roll with slaw and BBQ sauce.

You’ve got some wacky dishes like a watermelon and bacon burger, where do you get your inspiration from? I go out for dinner and have a lot of chef friends and they’re always trying crazy things. My restaurant is a take on fast-food and my idea is that if you can have all these crazy, experimental

What are your tips for backpackers who can’t afford to eat properly? When I was a DJ I used to travel a lot and stay at motels. What we used to do was make sure the motel room had an iron in it and then we’d go to the corner shop and buy a loaf of bread, some cheese slices and butter. You make the sandwich and wrap it up in foil, put some water in the iron and iron the sandwich. It’s amazing. To impress nobody, iron your own cheese sandwich. And how does one deep fry cola? It’s a carnival treat in the States, so you’re not just tipping a bottle of Coke into a fryer, you actually make a batter and instead of using milk, you use Coke. It’s a really sweet, Cokey flavour and the batter bubbles up. It’s a hot, syrupy, crunchy dish. It’s really good. Would you call your food ‘dude food’? I guess I call it party food. Or I just call it food. Are you good at matching food with drinks? Pretty much everything in the book goes with beer. It’s definitely the drink of choice. You’re meant to cook outside, well I think it’s the best way to cook and the best thing to drink when you’re outside is beer. Andrew Levin’s cookbook, Diner, is out now through New Holland (RRP $35).

nEW yEarS Ü 3 DayS Ü 10 StaGeS 200 Artists IncluDing jOhN bUtLer tRiO Ü sHaRon jOneS & The dAP kIngS ÜtHe blAcK sEedS LukE SlaTeR Ü 65DaysoFstatic Ü kAkI kInG ÜFriendly Fires dj set Theo Parrish Üthe Herd ÜKrafty Kuts vs A.Skillz Ü bLooD rED sHoeS mAt. mChUgH & the SeperAtista Sound System ÜbAtTleShIps nOrTheAsT pArtY hOusE Ü kIng tIdE Ü uNkNowN mOrTal oRcHesTrA

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There hasn’t been this much prosthetic make-up use since Mrs Doubtfire

LOOPER FILM review by Caitlin Stanway STARRING: Bruce Willis, Joseph Gordon-Levitt, Emily Blunt /M/ 118mins

MENTAL FILM review. Released Oct 4 Toni Collette, Rebecca Gibney | M | 117mins

After his wife is admitted to a psychiatric hospital (dubbed a “trip to Wollongong”) Barry impulsively picks up a hitchhiker named Shaz (Toni Collette) to nanny to his five ‘mental’ daughters. It’s Muriel’s Wedding on heat with the characters even more outrageous, the jokes even darker and the message even stronger: look around your neighbourhood – there’s no such thing as normal. AH 24


If you thought Looper was going to be your stock standard, high energy action romp – think again. With mind bending time travel, a suicidal assassin, genetic mutations and a futuristic mob, this action-cum-sci-fi flick packs more than the average punch. It’s the year 2042 – anarchy is reigning and the mob are using black market time travel to zap their targets back in time where an assassin, dubbed a ‘looper,’ awaits. Joe (Gordon-Levitt) is one such assassin who ends up in a world of hurt when the mob decide to close his ‘loop’ by sending his future-self back to be killed. Not quite ready to die, future Joe, played by a top form Bruce Willis, makes a hasty escape and sets off on a mission to (naturally) save the world. Here’s the part where your concentration must kick in – questions about time travel give the plot, and the audience, some seriously philosophical headspins. The dynamic between Gordon-Levitt and Willis is electric, both characters on conflicting missions manage to raise some intense moral dilemmas. With Emily Blunt thrown in as a thick skinned, over protective mother, the talented cast have you constantly swapping teams. None of the characters are particularly likable, but in the end you find yourself torn, and rooting for all of them with surprising attachment. Sure the muscle is impressive (let’s face it, Bruce Willis was born to shoot machine guns), but it’s the heart and head of this film that take it above, beyond, and out of this world. GOOD FOR: Those game enough to be emotionally and mentally assaulted

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Gathering no moss He burst onto stage as one half of a brother-sister duo, but with yet another solo album, Angus Stone continues his lone walk home WORDS BRAD BARRETT

Photos: Ali Msitton, Getty Images

Angus Stone is someone who is at odds with expectations. Assuming those record sales of around a million or more, the garlands of ARIA awards, and the cross-continental appeal would go to anyone's head, Angus actually seems more concerned with the smaller things. “Sorry I was late. A little bird flew into my house,” he says, sounding mostly awake. “He's still in here flying around in circles. A beautiful little robin!” He points out that he's currently on his farm in Byron Bay, sitting underneath a “lovely fig tree”. At one point, he realises he hasn't really answered my questions eloquently enough and goes to switch off the generator that's distracting him, muttering: “it's killing me, I can't think straight.” His world seems a lot more simple and humble than you'd expect a 26-year-old, popular musician's life to be. Renowned for the international hits he composed with his sister Julia, Angus has struck out on his own for a second solo record. This is his first album under his own name – his last was attached to the moniker Lady of the Sunshine, and included the indelible, slow-burning favourite, Big Jet Plane. Breaking Brights is the result of months of being on the road and snatching time to write and record where he could. Although it's an album strewn with travel, being apart from the ones you love, and of experiencing new and wonderful things, Angus seems more concerned with a metaphorical or spiritual journey. “I like to see this record as a motion picture. When I was writing and recording it, I was experiencing lots of motion and there was lots of pictures going on around me!” he says, tongue probably firmly in cheek. “These songs are tales of my adventures. Falling in love, falling into darkness, and experiencing the glow of life. It sounds really cheesy but all the pieces of my life came together on this.” The wistful strains of mandolin and rustic violin open the album, threading folk roots through the heart of the album immediately. With banjos, acoustic guitars, and Angus' soft, sleepy voice stirred in throughout, Breaking Brights isn't exploring new territory but continues to blend themes and emotional impact into ambiguity.

Sometimes you can be lying down in the gutter and drowning

“I guess it comes down to that sometimes you can be sitting up on a hill and you have a view of the world and sometimes you can be lying down in the gutter and drowning,” he muses. “I guess sometimes being in those places, they definitely have this influence on your recordings and writing but other times they just don't. It doesn't matter, it just comes down to where you are within your heart.” Which maybe accounts for that diversion from inbuilt emotional tonality – Angus' songs sometimes sound sad, while making you smile. It's best not to look too deeply into why, but it appears he's more than aware that his feelings only slightly sway the songs he conjures. It's actually a skill or an art to pull away from the major and minor mindset. This can make songs sound a little lost – or lightweight – but Angus' use of texture, of percussion, of simple countermelodies, means you can wander through his simple tunes and get lost in them yourself instead. “Some of the songs and where they came from, that overwhelming feeling is that there's a lot of hurt in relationships I've had and decisions I've made and I guess those songs are a reminder of that. But, you know, the great thing is the songs remind me of everything that is beautiful in life when I play a show,” he says. “While singing these songs, I'm going through a whole plethora of emotions and it's cool as well because the song doesn't always have to be bottled with that same feeling. It changes over time because you're growing with the song and the meaning changes. You can adapt it to a new experience, a new chapter in life.” The title track is far more directly sombre – eerie and



Angus hanging out on the Byron Bay farm shaking like Justin Vernon's cabin fever – and hints at the darkness underlying Angus' work. His description of his feelings on stage, as a celebrated live performer, is not only familiar, but highlights how seriously his own performances affect him. “I grew up in a family that was very 'don't back'.. on t hold back Sometimes I walk off stage and I don't even en know what has happened. I'm in this strange dream where e I'm letting everyone know, opening up something of myself and then it's over in a second. That's what I feel el like.” It would be accurate to describe it as falling alling into an abyss, and waking up afterwards knowing g that your journey was not merely enjoyable, it was vital." With that in mind, Angus is set to play the 'International Edition' of the typically Australian-centric music festival Homebake. e. It seems Angus feels right at home playing g these orgies of musical celebration. “I love Australian festivals. It's a bunch of kids, families, lovers all getting together and forming this big swirl of energy and the music is the lynchpin holding it in place. It's really cool. A lot of my best nights have been after we play, y, and I go out and hang out with people you've ou've shared this time with. Festivals can take you ou to many different places.” Homebake was actually one of the firstt festivals a young Angus played and enjoyed ed the benefits of being an artist – particularly ly 28


the rider, which he remembers indulging in fondly. As to whether his music represents the traditional Australian bill of Homebake, or even flying the flag for Australian music around the world, he's a little more reserved on giving a straight answer. “It's It s hard to say whether I'm reflecting Australian music or not. Music has this universal language where it doesn't matter what the words are. ar It's the feeling people are getting. They understand that someone on the other und side of the th planet is feeling these things. I don't know if that's what an Australian k song should do or not but whatever it is, I'm sho glad that th more and more people seem to relate.” rel Humility would've been the last thing you'd expect to attribute t to t such a beloved songwriter but alongside his love of nature, his a laid-back intensity, his almost bashful acceptance of where his life has taken him, it makes his deeply personal songs even easier to relate to. ❚ Catch Angus Stone at the Homebake Music, Ca Film Film, Comedy & Arts Festival 2012. Saturday Dece De December 8. See:


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Twenty-four seven Judging by last year's account, the 2012 Gold Coast Rugby Sevens will be a non-stop, spiritual event WORDS TOM WHEELER

Two English men, an Aussie and an American head to the Gold Coast. It sounds like the start of a hilarious joke, doesn’t it? And yet it isn’t the start of a xenophobic gag, it is the beginning of a big weekend away from Sydney. For those of you who haven’t visited the Gold Coast before, the best way to describe it is as a sunny, coastal mecca for events and general merriment. The reason for our visit was the 2011 Gold Coast Rugby Sevens tournament which was held over two days at Skilled Park last year. The annual Rugby Sevens is probably one of the most debaucherous sporting events in history – two days with over 20 hours of costume-wearing, boozed up rugger action.

Troopers and bloopers The Rugby Sevens phenomenon has become a huge thing with events held all over the world. The Gold Coast event is the first installment of nine venues globally, leading to its last hoorah in London. The tournament (although pretty normal in its sporting content) its clientele and general atmosphere is nothing short of bizarre. Eighty per cent of the audience are in fancy dress costumes – anything from macho costumes such as Stormtroopers, to men dressed as air hostesses. My three mates and I decided to go for a 'running of the bulls' theme. Three of us dressed as runners with white cotton clothes and a cheeky red scarf to mop up the beer from our Movember moustaches. My mate Adam, however, was dressed in a massive bull suit which was thick, black and furry. While we sat in breathable cotton, he was there the sweltering in the Gold Coast sun. It was probably not the best option. Good job we had plenty of fluids – albeit of the alcoholic variety. 32


The goals and the glory The first day saw 16 teams battle it out by groups, aiming to make it into the finals on the following day. The usual suspects are involved with the Sevens; teams like England and Australia, however there are now teams like the South Pacific nation of Niue. None of us had heard of Niue before, let alone did we expect there to be such avid support in the crowd. A normal Sevens match consists of two halves of seven minutes with a one minute half-time break. Seven players per team makes the game much more fast paced than Union or League. The Sevens game is huge in Samoa with less of the players tempted by big money to go to New Zealand and Australia as shown in games like Union or League. This means the Samoan team are a force to be reckoned with. The Rugby itself is not the only entertainment for the day, however, the stadium is filled with activities and the sheer number and variety of costumes in the crowd gives the whole place an air of friendliness, camaraderie and good old fashioned Gold Coast fun. The tournament is televised and the MC does a great job of keeping the crowd bopping along and Mexican waving. There are also sing-alongs and on pitch competitions – seeing a rotund man dressed as a hula girl (coconut bra included) chasing a man dressed as a pink crayon on the pitch has, for some reason, been seared into my memory.

Post-match celebrations After a full-on day and enough drinking and singing to put the Barmy Army to shame, we head out for a night on the tiles in Broadbeach. The weekend also happened to coincide with the infamous Schoolies Week, which is like a two week

Lolo Jones

'Spring Break' for Australian highschool leavers. A new phrase I learnt over the weekend was "being a Toolie," which is essentially slang for someone that is far too old to be amongst screaming 17 and 18 year-old's and participating in their afternoon goon drinking competitions. Luckily Broadbeach is safe from the marauding teens with most of the Schoolies' action held up the road in Surfers Paradise.

Photos: Getty Images, Justin Steinlauf, Rugby Australia

The final countdown The last day seems far busier than the first with all of the important games bunched up towards the end of the day. The support for Fiji and Samoa at the tournament is insane, the edge of the pitch is lined with flags and banners and cheeky, smiley South Pacific faces donning their team’s colours. Another thing you undoubtably notice at the tournament, similarly on a weekend away in the Gold Coast, is the different nationalities and their capability to drink for 10 hours straight a day. While I can’t pin this on all Americans, our Yank counterpart, Justin, managed to go for a two hour nap in the stadium on the second day. We are still unsure of where, let alone how, someone sleeps in a fully-packed roaring stadium. I guess we’ll never know. I might add that my mates and I were nothing short majestic in our capabilities to quaff copious amounts of beer and still have a fuzzy handle on which teams were doing what.

This year will be holy This year’s event is being held on the 13th and 14th of October and early indications are that myself, and seven others joining us, will be dressed as nuns. Come and say hi and grab a shot of holy water on us. TNTDOWNUNDER.COM



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WEEKLY WINNER SUNSET PIER: Karli Abtroch, 29, Canada KARLI SAYS: “I took this picture at Henley Beach in Adelaide. It was my first time at an Australian beach and it did not disappoint.” WE SAY: “Henley beach in beautiful Adelaide is a wonderful place to be at any time but you seem to have captured it at its best here, Karli. The shot has some really nice shading by the pier itself and the reflections of the setting sun showing faintly on the water in the foreground. The pier stretching out into the distance also offers a lovely focal point for photograph’s composition.”

HOT TIPS: Keep it level We have all had the urge now and then to tilt our camera, thinking “this is going to look great, amazing.’ etc. I hate to break it to you, but nine and a half times out of ten it fails miserably. How often do you in day to day life tilt your head to one side for a quick look around? So what makes you think a photograph taken this way will look good? It usually results in something very distracting for the viewer, taking away from the photographs main subject matter. If you’re struggling to keep your camera straight and your hand even then just use a tripod. It’ll make life a whole lot easier!





Send high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description Photos are judged by the TNT team at their own discretion. Weekly winner Karli wins a free night’s stay at the award-winning Sydney Central YHA ( The monthly winner gets three days’ car hire from Travellers Auto Barn. The runner-up wins a Great Barrier Reef snorkelling adventure and cruise with Awesome Adventures Oz (


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The thin red line



TALK Sarah Morrow 27, Northern Ireland


to drive from Cairns to Darwin, Q Iiswant it safe? Niko Moretti, Italy aren’t you an adventurous little A Well traveler, Niko. You’ve certainly picked a road less traveled, so to speak. The short answer to that question is yes, relatively speaking anyway. The long story is that there are a few things to keep in mind when you do this drive to ensure it’s as safe as possible. Heading west from Cairns the most interesting route is the Savannah Way. The first stop you’ll come to will be about eight hours into your trip at a place called Normantown, home to a whole 1,100 people. This is all relatively easy, sealed roads with plenty of little townships to rest in, refuel, etc. Three hours further west you will reach Burketown. This is where your trip will start to get a little bit tricky. If you stick to the Savannah Way from here on in you had best be prepared for some serious off-roading. You will definitely need a 4WD (probably should have

told you that back in Cairns.) 18, maybe 19 hours after Burketown you will get to a place called Borroloola. Here is the kind of rugged, desert landscape you will have seen in pictures of the Northern Territory. There’s also plenty of great places around for you to camp at. Then there is still about 12 hours to go until you get to Darwin. Best to take it slow and steady, give yourself four or five days in which to do the journey. Safe driving! working in Cairns but want a Q I’m weekend away. Where should I go? Hannah Kate, USA the Atherton Tablelands and get a A Try little close to nature. It’s about two hours inland from Cairns and is the perfect getaway for some peace and quiet. Clamber through caves, commune with tree-climbing kangaroos or just relax there’s plenty there to keep you busy, or not as the case may be.

Cool Bananas is a friendly hostel in the middle of the Town of 1770. Just a five minute walk from the beach, you can use body boards and surf boards for free. Greg the owner knows OVERVIEW



HOW ARE YOU GETTING AROUND? When I’m travelling I use the Greyhound bus or drive a campervan. I really miss my car back home. WHERE ARE YOU STAYING? I’m living in rented accommodation in Sydney’s inner west with three awesome Australian girls. I almost feel like a local. HAVE YOU DONE MUCH TRAVELING? I spent six months travelling before settling in Sydney. I’ve also been to Brisbane, Melbourne, Perth, Darwin, Cairns, Adelaide and all the little majestic places in between. YOUR BEST DAY IN OZ SO FAR? So many to choose from – skydiving in Cairns was very memorable. The adrenalin rush was absolutely amazing! WHAT WAS YOUR FAV SPOT? I liked Cairns – the combination of the best weather and lots to do.


WHAT MADE YOU COME TO OZ? I couldn’t get a decent job after finishing university and I always wanted to come and see the wonders of Australia.

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Maddie Rigelsford had never really thought about skydiving, but now that she’s ticked it off her list, it’s unlikely to be something she’ll forget. Skydiving it one of those bucket list things isn’t it? It’s like getting a tattoo, or having sex outside. It is one of those things you tell yourself you have to do before you die. So when I booked the jump I didn’t really think twice about it. But while it was instantaneous, it was something I knew I had to try considering I’m dating an Englishman and as he is fresh to Australia, I thought it may bump up my tour-guide-girlfriend points. On the day, the two of us ventured off to Skydive the Beach in Wollongong. We were booked in to jump at 9am. My fate was sealed. People were asking me all week if I was nervous, and truthfully, I hadn’t really thought about it until I stopped and realized I’d be jumping out of a plane from 14,000ft, and there was a possibility that I might die. Then the fear kind of kicked in. So I did what any mature person would do – I pushed it to the back of my mind. We were up at 6:30am to start 38


the drive out to the beach. It was a beautiful morning and the scenery heading down to Wollongong is really beautiful. After greeting two lovely girls at the desk and upgrading our package to a Gold – which allowed us both photos and a DVD of our jump, we were then weighed and had a few minutes of chill time before our group was to get suited up. A young guy named Mike took us through the instructions and told us about our tandem divers. He was really animated and yet still managed to create a relaxed vibe. Each of us had to sit in front of him as he described the details – from getting into the bus that would take us to the airport, hanging our legs out of the plane, leaning our heads back into our tandem’s shoulders and then basically squealing for the next 40 -60 seconds when the shoot is released. We’d then have a sweet chat with our tandems as we float to the ground. My face at this point must have looked pretty shocked as he caught my eye and said, “What’s wrong, you look horrified?” Everyone cracked up, and I smiled

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and complimented his descriptive tone. “The hanging our legs out of the plane part just kind of shocked me,” I said, laughing nervously. After that we were introduced to our tandem masters. I had a very boisterous and funny guy with a Go-Pro camera strapped to his wrist and did a quick introduction for my DVD. On the way to the airport the bus was super quiet. We were all looking out the windows, I was sitting next to Alex (my boyfriend) while grabbing his arm really tightly. Just for dramatic effect (or maybe that’s just me?) I looked over at him and whispered: “Promise to say you love me just before we jump.” He then decided to mock me during the rest of the 20 minute journey to the airfield. Once in the plane it started to get pretty scary. You have to sit in front of your tandem as he straps your harness into his harness. They are each filming you asking questions like, “Are you scared?” I wanted to scream, ‘Of course I’m fucking scared!” At this point I was ready to bail, and I actually say that on my DVD (which, by the way, isn’t something that will boost your confidence – my cheeks look like a can of paint is swishing around my face.) I won’t go through the actual jump, the emotions of it all, but once you’re out, the feeling is incredible. I’ve never had a more memorable or exciting day and I will definitely be skydiving again!



Send us your scary, funny or embarrassing travel tale (preferably about Australia or New Zealand) and if published you’ll win a $250 travel voucher redeemable on Oz Experience passes (, ATA NT camping trips ( and with Wayward Bus ( au). Email your stories (700 words max), to


Photos: Tourism Samoa, Katie Spain



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Culture club Home to chiefs, churches, spectacular sights and generous girths, Samoa encapsulates the beauty of simple living and family values WORDS KATIE SPAIN

The man whimpers as he is dragged into WHEN TO GO: Visit Samoa This, in a nutshell, is the beauty of Samoa. the Pacific, screaming as the salty water laps between May and October’s dry Traditional tattoo torment isn’t for everyone at his red, raw buttocks. Tears spring to his (festival) season. Christmas and but a strong sense of local pride, family and eyes as a team of villagers support his limp New Year gets busy with Samoans culture, is. So too is a laid-back way of life. body, firmly holding him in place. Around returning home for the festive The meaning of ‘Samoan time’ struck them, island children slap the water to keep season yesterday, when I was met by my talkative a frenzy of butt-flesh hungry fish at bay. CURRENCY: $1 = ST2.37 guide Anthony and his brief introduction to “At this point I was pleading to God to give (Samoan Tala) local road rules. So relaxed are these cheery me a heart attack so I could die,” says Chris folk, the Samoan Government’s right to ACCOMODATION: Taufua Solomona. “A lot of men commit suicide left–side driving change in 2009 caused little Beach Fales provide beachfront after the first section of a full-body tattoo.” mayhem. Anthony chuckles. “Accidents? fale accommodation from $70pp I’m sitting in the middle of Apia cultural Nope… we’re too relaxed for that!” pn (3 or 4 sharing) with mattress village – a collection of small, open coastal Despite his insistence that island motoring on floor ( huts (fales) showcasing over 3,000 years Faofao Beach Fales provide banana is a seaside breeze, the 45-minute journey from of Samoan history. Nearby, women weave airport to Apia is as thrilling as your average leaf-encased fales with plenty of intricate coconut leaf baskets while men Ghost Train. Kamikaze chickens, roaming pigs, character from $80pp pn. Prices in play with fire – the stick rubbing way. daredevil domestic dogs and the occasional Samoan Tala Chris is devoted to teaching visitors about human spring from the overgrown tropical SEE: Samoan customs and his culture runs deep; roadsides, darting across the bitumen without skin deep. a sidewards glance. It’s like Super Mario Cart without the The 43-year-old absentmindedly rubs his buttocks as he point system. No wonder the locals stick to the 55km/hr continues; the memories of his painful tattoo as clear as his speed limit. Surprisingly, roadkill is rare – a swift toot keeps Samoan archipelago surrounds. beasts at bay. Most flights in to Samoa burn the postChris endured the gruelling process in 1998, aged 31. The midnight oil, so a view of local surroundings has to wait until twelve sections take up to six hours each to complete and morning. But oh, what a worthwhile wait. despite warnings from his grandfather, Chris waltzed in to Exploring the capital city, Apia over four weeks of “agony, pain and pure hell”. As he whips out the implements used to mark his body I Artists have a field day painting the vibrant Samoan grab my posterior in sympathy. Not a needle in sight. Instead, landscape – if they had the palette for it, that is. While Apia sharp tattooing combs made of boar’s tusk, turtle shell plate provides the island’s biggest spread of restaurants, bars and and candlenut soot pigment. The combs are hit with a 23nightclubs (most close at midnight on Saturday folks, so get inch long mallet and the pain, Chris reiterates, is intense. your party started early), off the beaten track is where the Once inked there is no looking back; failure to complete the real optical smorgasbord is found. full twelve sections results in shame so intense, death seems Retinas explode with an onslaught of colour as Anthony an easier option. Six strong assistants held Chris down while steers his 4WD through tropical frond-flanked backroads. the revered tattoo artist went to work. “It was the worst There’s pride in his voice as he points out his home, and, decision of my life,” admits the strapping local. But with its like all young Samoans, shows beloved devotion to both his bloody completion came the transition from boyhood to parents. It’s enough to make a traveller feel guilty about not manhood and a vow of dedication to his family, village and calling her own more often. country. There are 366 villages in Samoa, each boasts its own



Anyone need rescuing?

chief and at least two spectacular churches. Religion is extremely important and for this reason Sundays are a state of complete shutdown. “If you ever have a one-day stop in Samoa make sure it’s not a Sunday!” Anthony chuckles (it’s true – finding food on the day of rest can be a challenge – if you’re in Apia, Farmer Joe’s supermarket is a saviour). Houses dot the landscape; each dwelling a unique work of art. Bright yellow roofs, orange bricks, blue windowpanes, pink verandas and green railings abound. “We like colour,” grins Anthony. The home of Treasure Island Elaborate gravestones sit proudly in front of each household – shrine-like in their size and grandeur. Family members being buried a stone’s throw from the front door is both a sign of respect and marks generations of property ownership. The rainbow abodes are a spectacular sight. Our destination, however, is a more European affair. Robert Louis Stevenson’s towering white mansion is now a historic homage to the late Scottish author of Treasure Island. The sickly writer and his family moved to the island where the climate eased his tuberculosis symptoms. The locals fell in love with the good-natured white man – and he with them. Anthony lures me up the neighbouring Mt Vaea, on top of which Stevenson was laid to rest. “How did the village people drag that coffin up here?” I gasp. Pure willpower and adoration, it seems. Mission completed, the urge to vomit is suppressed by the spectacular view. No wonder the old guy loved this joint. Rebuilding the honeymoon suite Our next stop is rest-related but not before a dip in Togitogiga Waterfall, the unforgettable Sua Trench and a 42


visit to the far side of Upolu Island’s South East coast, where expats Wendy and Chris Booth run Seabreeze Resort. Like Stevenson, the pair fell head over heels with Samoa and set up their high-end lagoon-fronted resort in 2007. Australian builder Chris and English wife Wendy’s dream nearly came to an end in 2009, when a wave of earthquakes and a devastating tsunami hit. “We were here in the honeymoon suite when it hit,” says Chris. “We held on to trees to stop from washing away.” The suite, award-winning restaurant and adjacent rooms weren’t so lucky. Standing in the newly rebuilt deluxe suite, it’s hard to imagine. “Leaving didn’t

Off the beaten track is where the real optical smorgasbord is found

cross our mind. It could be a thousand years before the next one – and we love it here”. It is a spectacular pad and if your budget doesn’t stretch to a few nights here at least splash out for the best meal to be had gobbled in Samoa. Further along the coast, the local owner of family-run business Faofao Beach Fales also lost everything. “We didn’t have any warning. We saw the water sucked out to sea and ran”. Today she is all smiles. I can’t lie – I’m petrified about having a mere mosquito net and banana-leaf thatching between my noggin and the waves. Despite an offer to bed down in the alternative multi-storey accommodation block, I decline. This true Samoan experience can’t be passed up.

Just five hours from the east coast of Australia and across the glistening Pacific lies the Treasured Islands of Samoa – voted the best value destination of the South Pacific. Make your way around the islands and you’ll discover spectacular waterfalls, dramatic blowholes, stunning coral reefs and crystal clear lagoons where you can swim with turtles. Samoa boasts the most pristine beaches with dazzling white sand beaches and sparkling turquoise waters. Life ambles at its own measured pace and it’s not just because of the balmy tropical weather. With the average temperature at 30 degrees Celsius, no wonder there is a smile on every face that greets you. Getting around is easy – rent a car, hop on a colourful island bus or take a taxi to explore Samoa!

For bookings visit

With first light comes a fear conquered, a crab in my trainers and a vow to do it again soon. The chance comes sooner than expected. Farewell island living Fale dwelling is the sole form of accommodation available on Manono Island; a tiny dot on the Pacific accessible by a small tin boat and a sense of adventure. It’s as close as you’ll get to simple, Samoan living; no dogs, no cars, minimal technology and big smiles. A stroll around the island takes 1.5 hours – longer if you oblige and stop to snap the endless stream of children pleading “Pue-ata” (“capture my smile!”). Here, another foreigner temporarily calls the island home. 65-year-old Euan Cameron is a white-haired New Zealanderturned honorary Manono man for six months of every year. He greets me alongside local chief Leota (owner of Sunset View Fales) and promptly declares how blessed he is to live here. Despite difficulty finding a shop selling bottled water (red cordial-filled plastic bags seem to generally suffice), it’s hard not to agree.

As darkness falls three bedraggled European travellers emerge from the sea, dripping wet, freshly caught tuna in hand. Their boat is moored a few hundred metres out and they’ve decided to swim ashore. Locals welcome them with gusto and we sit around a starlit table to feast on fresh lobster, battered tuna steaks and local delicacy Oka (raw tuna in lemon and coconut milk). Supo Esi (papaya soup) is also a breakfast must. Generosity comes as natural to Samoans as breathing and, when it comes to physique, big is beautiful so abandon your girth and go with it. Island goodbyes are heartfelt and later, as my plane embarks on what must be the most spectacular lift-off in existence, a pair of fisherman abandon their hooks, look up, and wave. Genuinely enthusiastic from “Malo e lelei” to “Alu”, these people are eager to share their special little world with the rest of the globe. It’s cheap island living, minus the tacky souvenirs and overwhelming pressure to buy. Go, revel in simplicity and treat them and their wonderland with respect. You’ll be inspired to call your mum when you’re done. Trust me. ❚

THE BEST OF THE REST The hideaways, the festivals, the nightlife...

SAVAI’I “If you want to escape the world mate, this is where you come.” A ferry ride is all it takes to cross the 22km to this Polynesian island hideaway. Take a car for pure freedom to explore blackened lava fields, sheer cliff faces, Alofaaga Blowholes’ gutcurdling power (they make easy work of pulverising a coconut), and Afu-a-au Falls. Once you make it past the Yoda-like group of local VIPs, chances are you’ll be the only swimmers in this picturesque waterhole. It’s romantic, fairtytale stuff. The islanders here are selfsufficient and largely lice a cashfree existence, often opting to play cricket over a hard day’s work.



TEUILA FESTIVAL: Held over the first week of September this cultural showcase kicks off with a gospel choir showcase (eat your heart out Sister Act) and ends with a hip-hop concert featuring a local and international line-up. In between, sport showdowns, dance-offs, street food, movies and markets are all held around Apia’s open-air stage. When the Teuila Fautasi race hits the harbour, island-folk line the bay to cheer on the biggest display of sweat and rowing arms you’ll ever see. It all ends with the Miss Samoa Pageant; a talent quest taken very seriously by local folk. Real beauty shines during the final intelligence test. Unmissable.

NIGHTLIFE: Nights out in Apia with cocktail or local Vailima beer (ST$3.50/bottle) in hand may not stretch much beyond midnight, but what they lack in duration they make up for in character. Samoans love to dance and most clubs and bars attract a mix of locals and visitors. I Spy is a popular haunt but for a real experience, grab a taxi and direct the driver to Tropicana. This hidden, off the beaten track gem is frequented by local fa’afafine (drag queens) and while it lacks bells and whistles, you will find one of the best, unpretentious parties in town. Tell them we sent you!

DA DA. A. A.


Harvest time This is Launceston in 48 hours WORDS JAMES BESANVALLE

DAY 1: The longstanding rivalry between Hobart and Launceston is as old as the cities themselves. But the people from Launceston will argue their city is more cultured, their flora and fauna more beautiful and their views more breathtaking. And it's hard to argue with them on that. With so much to do in Launceston, this town’s fusion of rural and city culture is definitely giving Hobart a run for its money. 9:00 Start your day off with a big breakfast at Stillwater ( beside the Tamar River. This modern Australian restaurant offers the freshest locally sourced produce and promises something for everyone. Stylishly renovated, this award-winning restaurant is one not to miss on the itinerary. It's so good you could easily go back there for lunch and dinner. 10:30 The Tamar river is one of Launceston’s most prominent rivers so you’ll want to set aside a lot of time to explore every nook and cranny. The Lady Launceston cruise ( will take you on a 50-minute exploration of the Cataract Gorge. For $25 per adult, this inexpensive cruise will give your eyes a workout, so it’s only fair to give your feet a go too. 12:30: Step off the cruise and get ready to explore the magnificent Cataract Gorge (launcestoncataractgorge. on foot. The almost death-defying heights will take your breath away as you board the world’s longest single-span chairlift upstream over the amazing views. Grab a bite to eat at the Gorge Restaurant and curious peacocks



will surround you in no time. If birds aren’t your thing, the nearby kiosk serves fish and chips, as well as yummy wraps to get your taste buds salivating. 15:00 It’s time to get those taste buds geared for a different sensation with a tour of Tamar Ridge Wines ( You’ll be swishing and swallowing all afternoon long, so take your time and explore the acres of vineyards. And make sure you buy a few bottles for your jealous friends and family back home. 18:00: Head back towards the city and visit the trendy bar/ restaurant with cool leather sofas, tastefully named Mud ( This Italian-influenced menu offers a consistently great range of food to get you full after a busy day of activities. Sit back and relax at the bar with a few more wines and let the good times flow, as you spend the night amongst the locals. 22:00: Stumble towards the Arthouse Backpacker Hostel ( and have a BBQ with newfound friends. Soak up the evening breeze on the spacious veranda and then get some rest because you’re going to need it. DAY 2: 10:00 Head on over to Café Culture for Fair-trade coffee, delicious breakfasts and huge meals. You’ll need a fair bit of food for the next activity on the itinerary so make sure you eat up. 11:00 Head to the famous James Boags Beer Factory ( in the hub of Launceston. Brewing since 1881, northern Tasmanians love this beer (Hobartians stay

Wine time is any time

true to their resident Cascade beer) and you will too, after a variety of tours and exploration of this great brewing history. The on-site museum will tell you everything you need to know with every sip you’re taking. 14:00: It’s time to get your art hat on and visit the free Queen Victoria Museum/Art Gallery ( au). The stylish industrial warehouses showcase the latest local art and provide tourists with the history of the local area at the same time. The planetarium is located right next to the museum, which showcases the most spectacular shows of the heavens. Also, head to the City Park (launceston. in the city’s hub to see the beautiful plant life and thriving cultural avenue of Launceston. Regularly hosting festivals, exhibitions, musicals and community events, City Park is in the center of everything! 18:00: Drive up to Georgetown and take in all the spectacular riverside views. Along the way, you’ll pass Beaconsfield – a place famous for the gold rush back in the day, as well as the trapping of two miners in 2006. Once you reach Georgetown, visit the Low Head Lighthouse. This lighthouse is one of Australia’s oldest and now provides tourists with amazing views and beautiful backdrops. 23:00: Head to Cove Bar and Restaurant ( au) for authentically Tasmanian views of the seaside. This modern Australian/Middle Eastern cuisine is just what you need to replenish after a big day. So relax, and make sure you soak in as much of the fresh seaside air as you can.

Queen Victoria's take on modern art

Where Boags Beer is born TNTDOWNUNDER.COM



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No wonder this guy looks shocked


A New Zealand man had to have an eel removed from his rectum at Auckland City Hospital’s A&E. A member of hospital staff told the New Zealand Herald: “The eel was about the size of a decent sprig of asparagus.” The unnamed man was discharged after having the creature removed from his bum. There are two well-known types of eel species in NZ, the shortfin and the longfin. It’s thought one of these got inside him, though it’s unconfirmed how the eel managed to find its way into his bottom.


It’s now possible to explore the Great Barrier Reef while surfing the net, as Google Maps Street View has been developed to take us under the sea. Using a special high-res underwater camera, the map service paired up with Catlin Seaview Survey to make it happen. It’s “the next step in our quest to provide people with the most comprehensive, accurate and usable map of the world,” Google Maps has come out and said. Richard Vevers, project director of Catlin Seaview Survey, added: “This will allow the 99.9 per cent of the population who have never been diving to go on a virtual dive for the first time.” The updated service means we can also poke around other great reefs, including Apo Island in the Philippines, Maui’s Molokini crater and Hanauma Bay, Hawaii.



What a clown: Shane Cuthbert, from Blacktown, Western Sydney, was almost held in contempt of court after he turned up to answer charges of damaging a taxi’s side mirror dressed in a clown suit. The Judge was suitably unimpressed by Cuthbert.


A human finger found inside a fish has been traced back to a wakeboarder who lost it in July. Nolan Calvin, a fisherman in Bonner County, Idaho, discovered the fishy finger as he was cleaning a trout he caught and called the police. The cops were able to make out the fingerprint on the dismembered digit and matched it to Hans Galassi, a 31-year-old wakeboarder who lost four of his fingers after an accident on the same lake in June.

It’s not known how long the finger had been inside the fish, but it was in a good condition considering it had been missing for over two months. Local detective Gary Johnston said: “You fall asleep in your bathtub or hot tub, you come out and your fingers are all puckered up and prune-like. It wasn’t like that.” The sheriff’s office asked Galassi if he wanted his finger back. He declined..

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IN NUMBERS Value of compensation, in pounds, awarded to a woman by Tesco after she found a dead rodent in her sandwich


Percentage of Brits who are too tired and stressed to have sex and consider making the beast with two backs “a chore”

Big mouth: scientists scare off Jaws


A shark-proof wetsuit is being developed by researchers in Australia, with the aim of making surfers visually unappealing to sharks. The team working on the designs hope to have a prototype ready by next year for the wetsuit, which they hope will make the wearer look unappetising: “Poisonous if you like, or unattractive to the shark, somewhat like a sea snake,” Professor Shaun Collin said. Research by the University of Western Australia found sharks are colour blind. The designers hope to use this information to influence a shark’s behaviour based on what the predators can and can’t see. “[We’ll be] using a model which takes into account the different light levels that sharks move through and different seasons of the year and different times of the day,” Prof Collin added.


Photos: AAP; Thinkstock; Getty


INXS have been approached to tour with a hologram of their late lead singer, Michael Hutchence. Keyboardist Andrew Farriss is reportedly open to the idea, while the band’s manager Chris Murphy says it’s a possibility, too. “I don’t think anything like that is out of the question,” Murphy said. INXS have had several replacement lead singers – including JD Fortune, who won the honour on a reality show – since Hutchence died in 1997.

Number of months to wait before Rebekah Brooks and Andy Coulson go on trial to face phone hacking charges


Hutchence hologram: the show must go on

Dead stars returning to the stage as a hologram came to the world’s attention when rapper Tupac appeared with Snoop Dogg and Dr Dre at US music festival Coachella in April this year.


A study of genealogical records from the Korean Chosun dynasty (13921910AD) has revealed an interesting method of prolonging life. According to the study, castrated males from the dynasty lived longer than other males – 14 to 19 years longer on average. Of the 81 eunuchs listed in the records, three of them lived to the age of 100 or more – something that is rare even today, despite modern medicine. On average, women live five to 10 years longer than males. So there you go – having a penis in your possession is bad for you. That’s a very disturbing but apparently true fact.


Cost, in pounds, of a jetpack bought by businessman Jeremy Paxton to speed up his commute up the Thames


QUOTE OF THE WEEK Movies saved me from shame, from guiltt Steven Spielberg on his battle with dyslexia. Didn’t work with Indiana Jones 4, though




Don’t cry for me Barack Obama

Madonna rides the Obama train, isn’t quite the full ticket If you’re going to bring religion into politics, at least get it right

» Agree or disagree? Should pop stars stay out of politics?



It’s bad enough that Liz Hurley is still carrying Shane Warne like a handbag, now the pair have been spotted at Milan Fashion Week – sitting front row. ‘Shane Warne’ and’ Fashion Week’ are two terms that should never be used in the same sentence, and yet, thanks to Liz’s power and the UK Daily Telegraph, they are mutually exclusive. The newspaper ran a story asking Warnie for his top fashion tips. “Well I suppose you’ve only been seeing me wearing Cricket whites all my life. But I have worn suits over the last twenty years.

handbag “witha leather limbs ” And Liz always gives me good tips about ties, and shirts, and what goes with what, so it’s nice to have her help too,” he said. Warnie, we don’t want your fashion tips and we’re sick of seeing your orange tan on the red carpet. You look like a leather handbag with limbs. I suppose we have to thank equality for giving us the male version of a WAG.

Photos: Getty Images

In a country where voting isn’t mandatory, it seems celebrities want to work overtime to get their preferred US candidates elected. But when the celebrity endorsing you is not only British, but, Madonna, it can do more harm than good. At a concert in Washington last week, Madonna wound down the music to treat the audience to a three-minute ‘Madonn-o-logue’ about the impending election. “Y’all better vote for fucking Obama, okay? For better or for worse, all right? We have a black Muslim in the White House!” she shouted. The best part is, Barack Obama isn’t Muslim. Although she has since said the statement was ironic, you cannot help but imagine the Obama’s cringing in their Christian-practising home. Let me break it down in Madonna-speak: “Michelle was flipping her weave.” It didn’t stop there. She then revealed a tramp stamp on her lower back which read, ‘OBAMA’ and yelled, “When Obama is in the White House for a second term I’ll take it all off.” Shudder. It could be enough for voters to fast-track Mitt Romney to Prez. Having said that, Romney doesn’t need a half-cocked speech by a pop star to denigrate his cause, he’s doing enough damage all by himself. Last week Mr Romney brought up an incident regarding the plane his wife was travelling on which was forced to make an emergency landing. He said, “you can’t find any oxygen from outside the aircraft to get in the aircraft, because the windows don’t open. I don’t know why they don’t do that.” He claims it was a joke, but I find it offensive to windows – and to common sense. Perhaps he should have followed suit, claiming planes without fresh air are ‘ironic’. The point is, pop stars, whether it’s Nicki Minaj rapping nonsense or Madonna making religious faux-pas, should stay out of politics and stick to the music. Romney, should just stay out of the race altogether. Even if that does mean Madonna getting her kit off.



Traditional British Pub Live music in the outdoor beer gardens and DJ till late Brisbanes best craft beer venue (SFBUTUFBLTBOEQVCOPTIt&YUFOTJWFXJOFMJTU &BHMF4USFFU#SJTCBOF2-% PXXXQJHOXIJTUMFDPNBV

Brisbaneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Home of Football PIGNWHISTLE_694.indd 1

9/08/12 9:22 AM


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Like his club Essendon, Jobe Watson started the AFL season with a bang. The difference between the two is that Watson ends the season with silverware after winning the Brownlow Medal. Watson, pictured, polled 30 votes to claim the AFL’s top individual honour, his runaway win confirmed when he held a seven-vote lead with two rounds left. He held out Hawthorn veteran Sam Mitchell, who showed up the All Australian selectors who left him out of their team by polling 26 votes to be equal runner-up with Richmond’s Trent Cotchin. Watson is the first player to win the Brownlow in a team that didn’t make the finals since 1999, when Hawthorn’s Shane Crawford triumphed. He is also the sixth Bombers player to claim the award.


All Blacks captain Richie McCaw will sit out most of the Super 15 next season, plus three Tests against France, to rest for the 2015 World Cup in England. McCaw is all set to enact a six-month sabbatical clause in his contract, but unlike teammate Dan Carter, who had an ill-fated sojourn in France in 2008, McCaw will stay away from rugby. His manager, Warren Alcock, said the 110-Test veteran needed to “be anonymous” somewhere and gain mental refreshment. McCaw said he hoped his leave would not be seen as shirking. “I want to make sure there is not a perception I’m just hanging in there and being around for the sake of it,” he said. said. “This campaign will benefit students, teachers and schools across the world.”



Mud, sweat and smiles: a competitor in the Tough Mudder contest in Glenworth Valley on Australia’s Central Coast looks satisfied to complete the challenge. The unnamed warrior was among 25,000 who tackled the gruelling obstacle course, designed by British special forces and including flaming mud, electric shocks and slippery walls


Wests Tigers will appoint a new head coach in 2013, but the future of sacked coach Tim Sheens remains unclear as he considers remaining with the NRL club in a different capacity. Tigers chairman David Trodden said they would embark on a restructure as a result of the side’s dismal showing in 2012, when it failed to make the finals. Sheens is unlikely to take a noncoaching role, however, and has already been linked to the vacant New Zealand Warriors head coach job. Also in league, former Knights, NSW and Australia player Andrew Johns has been named rugby league’s eighth immortal. “I don’t know whether I was worthy,” he said.

BIG WEEK FOR ... It’s down to the business end of the season for Formula 1 and Australia’s Mark Webber sits in fifth place. After finishing 11th in Singapore, due to copping a 20-second penalty, Webber needs a huge race at the Suzuka Circuit to narrow the gap on leader Fernando Alonso. However, with teammate Sebastian Vettel in second place, Webber could be told to play second fiddle to help the German take the title, which he won’t be happy about. Red Bull is first in the team championship, so the Aussie has plenty to race for.

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QUOTES OF THE WEEK I’m too fast, too sexy and too talented to be blown away by a large, slow robot from the Ukraine British boxer David Haye doesn’t seem too frightened of rival Vitali Klitschko. Hope his toe’s healed

Weapon: the Gunners expect big things from Spain’s Santi Cazorla

PREVIEW EUROPE’S BEST DUKE IT OUT UEFA CHAMPIONS LEAGUE This week, Manchester City, schooled on how to produce a full 90-minute performance by Real Madrid in the opening round, face another stern test at home to German champs Borussia Dortmund on Wednesday. Dortmund arrive on a high, after beating Dutch kings Ajax Amsterdam 1-0 two weeks ago. A loss at home will really hurt City in their first year in the Champions League. Arsenal, hungry for another win, welcome Greek champions Olympiakos to the

Emirates, and appear energised by the addition of midfielder Santi Cazorla. Elsewhere, early favourites Real Madrid rock up to Amsterdam, and they’ll hope Cristiano Ronaldo’s head is in the right place. Also, keep an eye out for Amsterdam’s Viktor Fischer, the latest to be dubbed ‘the new Messi’. Manchester United want him, apparently. Reigning champs Chelsea travel to Copenhagen to face FC Nordsjælland, while Man U are hosted by Romania’s CFR Cluj. They’ll expect a big win there.

THE CHAT | Obama talks footballt

Photos: Getty Images

Barack Obama has been weighing in on NFL Q issues. What’s that all about? to a pay dispute, the NFL locked out its top referees A Due in June after their contracts expired. The league has been using replacements, who have come under criticism. “We’ve got to get our refs back,” the president said in the wake of a controversial call in the Seattle Seahawks’ recent win over the Green Bay Packers. The world’s most powerful man later tweeted: “NFL fans on both sides of the aisle hope the refs’ lockout is settled soon.” Obama, a Chicago Bears fan, isn’t one to wish the rival Packers well. However, he has stepped up his efforts to win in politically important Wisconsin, home of the Packers and rival Mitt Romney’s running mate, Paul Ryan.

Foo Football F Fo oo has a small pocket of people who do not seem to be in tune with life, so tell oy y them to go and annoy someone else Ex-Liverpool player John Aldridge calls for harsh punishments for those who crow vile chants at matches

Joe Jo oe Hart H should stay in goal and make saves. I am the judge, not Joe Hart Man City gaffer Roberto Mancini says he’ll be the one to offer any criticism of the team, thank you very much

TV HIGHLIGHTS RUGBY UNION South Africa v New Zealand Their final Four Nations hit-out Sat, 4pm. Fox Sports

RUGBY LEAGUE Super League Grand Final Europe’s best do battle Sat, 6pm. Channel Nine

RUGBY UNION Argentina v Australia Can Los Pumas force another tight one? Sun, 12.10am. Sky Sports 3



OZLISTINGS TRAVEL AGENTS Adventure Travel Bugs 07 3236 3266, Backpackers World Travel 1800 997 325 Peter Pans Adventure Travel 1800 669 424, Travellers Contact Point 1800 647 640, Tribal Adventure Travel 1800 984 484, YHA Travel 02 9261 111,


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Bottom Bits Bus Tours around Tasmania 1800 777 103,

Maxi Ragamuffin Whitsundays sailing 1800 454 777

Bunyip Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 286 947,

Mojosurf Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 113 044,

Cool Dingos Fraser Island Tours 1800 072 555,

Nullarbor Traveller Tours from Adelaide and Perth 1800 816 858,

Explore Whitsundays Whitsundays packages 1800 675 790,

Ocean Rafting Whitsundays tours 07 4946 6848,

Mighty Cars and Campers (Formerly Backpacker Campervan Rentals) 1800 809 944

Oz Experience Hop on-hop off Australia-wide tours 1300 300 028,

Boomerang Cars 0414 882 559,

Surfcamp Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 888 732,

Hippie Camper 1800 777 779,

Groovy Grape Getaways Tours linking Adelaide, Alice Springs & Melbourne 1800 661 177, Heading Bush Adelaide to Alice Springs outback tours 1800 639 933,

The Rock Tour Red centre tours 1800 246 345,

Adventure Tours Australia-wide tours 1800 068 886,

Jump Tours Tours around Tasmania 0422 130 630, Whitsundays packages 1800 677 119,

Kakadu Dream Kakadu tours 1800 813 266,

Under Down Under Tours Tours around Tasmania 1800 064 726,

Autopia Tours Tours around Victoria 03 9391 0261,

Kangaroo Island Adventure Tours Adelaide to KI tours 13 13 01,

Western Xposure WA tours 08 9414 8423,

Awesome Adventures Oz Whitsundays packages 1800 293 7663,

Kangaroo Island Wildlife Adventures South Australia 1800 786 386,

Wilderness 4WD Adventures Top end tours 1800 808 288,

Topdeck Tours covering all of Oz 1300 886 332,

Wildlife Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 661 730,

RENTAL FIRMS Apollo Motorhomes 1800 777 779,

Kings Cross Car Market For buying and selling vehicles. 110 Bourke St, Woolloomooloo. 02 9358 5000, Spaceships 1300 132 469, 1300 789 059,


TRANSPORT CO Greyhound Australia Buses around Australia. 13 20 30, Jetstar Airline. 131 538, Premier Transport Group Buses along the east coast. 13 34 10, Qantas Airline. 13 13 13, Regional Express Airline. 13 17 13, Spirit of Tasmania Ferries to Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, Tiger Airways Airline. 03 9999 2888,

Travellers Auto Barn 1800 674 374,

Redline Coaches For getting around Tasmania. 03 6336 1446,

Wicked Campers 1800 246 869,

Virgin Australia Airline. 13 67 89,


35 $105 AU






*Van price based on a Lowball Camper, 3+ day rate, for travel 21/10/2012 – 27/10/2012. Prices correct at time of print, rates change weekly so contact our Reservations team for the best daily rate. Minimum hire applies, offer subject to availability and liability reduction cover is additional. For full terms and conditions contact Mighty Campers.



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SYDNEY STAY Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD. 02 9267 7718 Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9267 7718 Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD. 02 9281 2222 Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505, City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333 Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. 02 9218 9000 Sydney Harbour YHA 110 Cumberland Street. The Rocks. 02 9261 1111 Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. 1800 013 186

Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street. Tamarama. 02 9365 2088, Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi. 02 9130 5063, Lochner’s Guesthouse 8 Gowrae Ave. Bondi. 02 9387 2162, Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee. 04 0817 6634, Coogee Beach House 171 Arden St. Coogee. 02 9665 1162, Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511, Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee. 02 9315 7888, Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. 02 9692 8418, Boardrider Backpacker Rear 63, The Corso, Manly. 02 9977 3411

Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross. 02 8354 0488,

The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly. 1800 657 122,

Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213

Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411

Kangaroo Bak Pak 665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills. 02 9261 1111

Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371

Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach. 02 9918 9709,

Wake Up! 509 Pitt St, CBD. 02 9288 7888,


SYDNEY DO Manly Surf School Manly Beach. 02 9977 6977,

BLUE MTNS Blue Mountains YHA 207 Katoomba St, Katoomba. 02 4782 1416,


Maritime Museum Darling Harbour.

Newcastle Beach YHA 30 Pacific St, Newcastle. 02 4925 3544,

My Sydney Detour Unique city tours. Oceanworld Manly West Esplanade.

Terrigal Beach YHA 9 Ocean View Dr, Terrigal. 02 4384 1919,

Powerhouse Museum Darling Harbour.

Skydive Central Coast Warnervale.

Skydive the Beach Wollongong.

BYRON BAY Backpackers Holiday Village 116 Jonson St 1800 350 388,

Sydney Olympic Park Darling Harbour. Sydney Tower and Skytour 100 Market St, CBD.

Backpackers Inn 29 Shirley St 1800 817 696,

Sydney Harbour Bridge The Rocks. Sydney Aquarium Darling Harbour. Sydney Wildlife World Darling Harbour. Taronga Zoo Mosman. Waves Surf School

SYDNEY MUSIC Hordern Pavillion

Byron Bay Accom 02 6680 8666, The Arts Factory 1 Skinners Shoot Rd. 02 6685 7709, Nomads Byron Bay Lawson Lane. 1800 666 237, Byron Bay YHA 7 Carlyle St. 1800 678 195,

Oxford Art Factory

Skydive the Beach Byron Bay Kingsford Smith Park, Ballina 1800 302 005

Sydney Opera House The Annandale The Enmore

COFFS HARB Coffs Harbour YHA 51 Collingwood St. 02 6652 6462,

The Metro

Petersham Guest House ARE DORMS GETTING YOU DOWN? BARRENJOEY HEADLAND On 2 March 1788, Arthur Phillip named the headland “Barrenjuee” meaning little kangaroo or wallaby. The name has been spelt differently over time, Barrenjoey now being the accepted name since 1966. With its awesome 180 degree view over Pittwater, the Hawkesbury and Palm Beach this beautiful sandstone lighthouse marks the northernmost point of Sydney’s Northern Beaches. Just a short 20 minute steep walk will lead you to the breathtaking view. You could also take the headland walk which is approximately 1.5hours over a distance of 2.3 km and will lead you straight to the Lighthouse. A short drive and will also steer you towards discovering Palm Beach (where Home & Away is filmed) and Whale beach with a beautiful coastal drive along the northern beaches.

Then come sleep with us! The place to stay in the Sydney Suburbs. Double room - $240 p/week Twin room - $240 p/week Single room - $200 p/week Ensuite room - $300 p/week

Phone Con

100 metres to bus and train. 5kms from city centre. 23 Brighton St, Petersham.




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BRISBANE STAY Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711,

XXXX Ale House Brewery tours. Cnr Black & Paten St, Milton. 07 3361 7597,



Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace. 07 3367 1157,

Aquarius Backpackers 44 Queen St, Surfers Paradise. 1800 22 99 55,

Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000, Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433,

Backpackers in Paradise 40 Peninsula Drive, Surfers Paradise. 1800 268 621,

Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452,

THE BLACK KEYS Brisbane Entertainment Centre. Oct 26, $99 With sell out shows across the globe this rock duo needs no introduction, and if they do you don’t deserve a ticket!

Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, 1800 682 865, The Deck 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm. 04 3377 7061 Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George and Herschel Sts. 1800 446 646,


BRISBANE DO Australia Zoo Glasshouse Mountains, Tourist Drive, Beerwah. 07 5436 2000,

Riverlife Adventure Centre Kayaking & rock climbing. Lower River Terrace, Kangaroo Point. 07 3891 5766,

Is la nd s

Gold Coast International BP 28 Hamilton Ave, Surfers. 1800 816 300,

Story Bridge Adventure Climb 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point. 1300 254 627,

Gallery of Modern Art 07 3840 7303,

W hi ts un da y

Coolangatta Sands Hostel Cnr Griffiths & McLean Sts, Coolangatta. 07 5536 7472,

2 Days 2 Nights

THE ultimate day FUN Whitsun E EXPERIENC

Coolangatta Kirra Beach YHA Pl, 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga. 07 5536 76442,

Islander Backpackers Resort 6 Beach Rd, Surfers Paradise. 1800 074 393, Sleeping Inn Surfers

@tnt_downunder 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise. 1800 817 832, Surfers Paradise Backpackers Resort 2837 Gold Coast Highway, Surfers. 1800 282 800, Surfers Paradise YHA Mariners Cove, 70 Seaworld Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise. 07 5571 1776, Trekkers Backpackers 22 White St, Southport. 1800 100 004,

GC DO Dreamworld Theme park. Get Wet Surf School 07 5532 9907 Seaworld Wet ‘n’ Wild Water World Warener Bros Movie World Zorb 07 5547 6300

SUNSHINE CST Mooloolaba Backpackers 75-77 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba.




AYR BACKPACKERS stay at Wilmington House


Working Hostel of the Burdekin District


WORKERS WANTED Call Mick & Daphne 07 4783 5837


ey Value for Mon e ac sp Huge deck aran am at C g in Stable Cruis rs ta S er the Sleeping Und u en M Gourmet Fun crew Experienced ohol lc A O Y B HOT Shower Tuition Basic Sailing


Backpacker Resort

Innisfail North Queensland 50 fruit pickers wanted NOW! Guys & girls s#ABLETELEVISION GAMESROOM SPORTINGOVAL s!LL4RANSPORTPROVIDED 30%#)!,)3).').!33)34).'7)4(3%#/.$9%!26)3!7/2+

nt Book Now: ww local travel age Or visit your



Phone: 07 4061 2284


Gold Coast

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NOOSA Noosa is located on Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s east coast and is home to several beautiful beaches, a stunning coast line, national park and pristine river as well as many events spread out over the calendar year. The list is endless when visiting Noosa, they range from visiting The World famous Eumundi Markets, shopping and dining on Hasting Street, soaking up the sun on Noosa beach or even going for a surf on some of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best surfing breaks, watching the sunset at Noosa River or spending the day cruising down the river. And it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop there, the town offers visitors the chance to be pampered at a day spa, take a walk through the national park out to the headland or hire water equipment such as jet skiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. It really is one of Australia best playgrounds.





1800 020 120

07 4120 1600,

Nomads Noosa 44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Heads. 1800 666 237,

Palace Adventures 184 Torquay St, Hervey Bay, 1800 063 168

Halse Lodge YHA 2 Halse Lane, Noosa. 1800 242 567,

RAINBOW BEACH Dingos Backpacker Adventure Resort 20 Spectrum St. 1800 111126, Pippies Beach House 22 Spectrum St. 1800 425 356, Skydive Rainbow Beach 0418 218 358,

HERVEY BAY Aussie Woolshed 181 Torquay Rd 07 4124 0677 Next at Hervey Bay 10 Bideford St. 1800 102 989, Nomads Hervey Bay 408 The Esplanade. 1800 666 237, Palace Backpackers 184 Torquay, 1800 063 168,

FRASER ISLAND Eurong Beach Resort



BUNDABERG Federal Backpackers 221 Bourbong St. 07 4153 3711 Northside Backpackers 12 Queen St. 07 4154 1166 Bundaberg Bondstore Distillery tours. 07 4131 2999

TOWN OF 1770 1770 Backpackers 6 Captain Cook Dr. 1800 121 770, 1770 Undersea Adventures 1300 553 889,

AIRLIE BEACH 259 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 677 119 Airlie Beach YHA 394 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 247 251, Backpackers by the Bay 12 Hermitage Dr. 1800 646 994,

QLDLISTINGS Base Airlie Beach Resort 336 Shute Harbour Rd 1800 242 273,



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Magnums Whitsunday Village Resort 366 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 624 634

BOWEN Bowen Backpackers Beach end of Herbert St. 07 4786 3433

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Resort 79 Palmer St. 1800 211 522,

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Adrenalin Dive Yongala diving. 07 4724 0600, Yongala Dive Yongala diving. 07 4783 1519,

MAGNETIC ISL Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd.

1800 24 22 73, Bungalow Bay Backpackers Horseshoe Bay. 1800 285 577, Hotel Arcadia 7 Marine Pde, Arcadia Bay. 07 4778 5177 Pleasure Divers 07 4778 5788

MISSION BEACH Absolute Backpackers 28 Wongaling Beach Road. 07 4068 8317, Scotty’s Beach House 167 Reid Rd. 07 4068 8676,

CAIRNS STAY Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353,



FREECALL: 1800 000 541

Air-conditioning 24 hour reception Kitchen & laundry Keycard access Secure parking Free BBQ

HEAPS OF ACTIVITIES! Day trip to Crystal Cascades, Wakeboarding, Sailing, Movie nights and much more!



117 Grafton Street Cairns, QLD Australia 4870


THE GREAT BARRIER REEF Boasting as the world’s largest coral reef system, the Great Barrier Reef stretches over 2,600km of the east coast of Queensland. The reef is World Heritage listed and much like the Great Wall of China, it can be seen from outer space. Generating over $1 billion a year, the Great Barrier Reef stretches from Fraser Island in the South to the Torres Strait in the North. The reef is home to a huge array of flora and fauna, with mny sightings of whales, dolphins, sea snakes, turtles, fish and even dugongs being recorded in the area. Sacred to the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people, the reef has come under threat by coral bleaching, overfishing, shipwrecks and the ‘crown of thorns’ starfish that can devastate coral in the area. Tourism in the area consists of snorkelling, cruises with glass-bottomed boats and many underwater observatories. The area is Australia’s most popular tourist destination and is a must-see for any tourist heading up into the area.



. . . E R E H Y L L A IN F E ’R YOU



QLDLISTINGS Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628,

Pro Dive 07 4031 5255

JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642,

Raging Thunder Adventures Whitewater rafting. 07 4030 7990,

NJoy Backpackers Hostel Harbour 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055, Nomads Beach House 239 Sheridan St. 1800 229 228,

CAIRNS DO AJ Hackett Bungy jumping & canyon swinging. 1800 622 888

Skydive Cairns 07 4052 1822,

CAPE TRIB Crocodylus Village Lot 5, Buchanan Creek Rd, Cow Bay. 07 4098 9166, PK’s Jungle Village Cnr Avalon & Cape Trib Rd. 1800 232 333,


Our 5 Day PADI Open water course is the most popular way to do it. MOVIE WORLD As one of the three big amusement parks on the Gold Coast, Warner Bros. Movie World is Australia’s premier movie-themed amusement park. This “Hollywood on the Gold Coast” park is Australia’s little slice of stardom on our very own shores! With the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Batman, Austin Powers and Scooby Doo walking around the theme park, your brush with Hollywood’s faux royalty will leave you star struck. Movie World is unique because it boasts a number of active movie sets alongside its 20-year history. With rides like the Superman Escape (one of Australia’s fastest roller coaster rides) or the gravity defying Space Shot ride, make sure you don’t have your lunch too soon before you go on these rides. Stunt shows and street parades fill the rest of the day, as you sit back, relax and wave to the host of entertainment in the palm of your hands.

We also specialise in Liveaboard dive trips and all levels of dive education. SHOP: Cnr Shields & Grafton Sts, Cairns FREECALL: 1800 353 213 PHONE: +617 4031 5255 RES: 60


Best Staff


-Small dorms, doubles, twins and singles ess - Free breakfast and dinner everyday -Bus pick up on arrival -Swimming pool, social areas, WIFI -BBQ and quiz nights e!! -Tour desks, discounts available! -A great social atmosphere! Freecall (within Oz) 1800 666 336 -Owner operated Tel: + 617 4051 7642 11-13 Charles St Cairns QLD

MELBOURNE STAY All Nations Backpackers Hotel & Bar 2 Spencer St. 1800 222 238, Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda. 1800 242 273, Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond. 03 9427 9826, Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697,



VICLISTINGS Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611, The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108,

MELBOURNE DO Australian Centre for the Moving Image Federation Square. 03 8663 2200,

Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100,

Melbourne Aquarium Cnr of Flinders St & King St. 03 9923 5999,

The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane. 1800 249 207,

Melbourne Cricket Ground Brunton Av. 03 9657 8888

Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500,

Melbourne Museum 11 Nicholson St, Carlton. 13 11 02

Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212,

National Gallery of Victoria Federation Square.

Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda. 1800 008 718,

Old Melbourne Gaol 377 Russell St. 03 8663 7228,

Hotel Bakpak Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 1800 645 200,

Official Neighbours Tours 570 Flinders St. 03 9629 5866,

Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. 03 9621 2523,

Skydive the Beach Melbourne 1300 798 843

Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. 1800 447 762,


Tickets must be pre-purchased Call Ticketmaster 1300 136 122, visit or scan the QR code Saturday 3 Nov AAMI Victoria Derby Day Tuesday 6 Nov Emirates Melbourne Cup Day Thursday 8 Nov Crown Oaks Day Saturday 10 Nov Emirates Stakes Day ROYAL BOTANICAL GARDENS If you think taking a stroll in the spring time through the Royal Botanical Gardens is more on your grandma’s agenda than yours… think again. When visiting the gardens you will discover over 50,000 striking plants displayed over 36 hectares. The diverse plant collections and all year-round events, unique tours and reputation as one of the world’s finest gardens has made this one of Melbourne’s most popular tourist attractions. If that doesn’t get your there, this will, why not grab a gourmet picnic box from The Terrace which is a fully licensed café located in the heart of the gardens. You can sit in the sunshine with some good friends or your loved one and soak up everything the gardens have to offer. Best of all, entry is free all year round.





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PARKLIFE: BACARDI OAKHEART ARENA Steve Henry is officially one of the world’s strongest men, and he challenges you and your bros to a tug-of-war at the festival’s newest area Bacardi’s OakHeart Arena. Parklife festival goers can also challenge one of Australia’s strongest women to an arm wrestle, decide the ‘age-old’ battle between lion and shark, and test their accuracy in a round of stein pong. Oct 6, Melbourne

go to:

MELB MUSIC Cherry Bar Corner Hotel East Brunswick Club Esplanade Hotel Northcote Social Club Palace Theatre The Hi-Fi The Tote

GREAT OCEAN RD Anglesea Backpackers 40 Noble St, Anglesea. 03 5263 2664, Eco Beach YHA 5 Pascoe St. 03 5237 7899,


FREECALL: 1800 249 207

Central location 24 hour reception Kitchen & laundry Keycard access Luggage Storage Lockers


Level 6, 228 Flinders Lne Melbourne, VIC 3000


Walking tour, Pub crawl, Bingo night, Pasta night, Sunday pancakes and much more!




Great Ocean Road Backpackers YHA 10 Erskine Av, Lorne. 03 5289 2508, Port Campbell Hostel 18 Tregea St, Port Campbell. 03 5598 6305, Surfside Backpackers Cnr Great Ocean Rd & Gambier St, Apollo Bay. 1800 357 263,

MORNINGTON Bayplay Lodge 46 Canterbury Jetty Rd, Blairgowrie. 03 5988 0188,

Tortoise Head Lodge French Island. 03 5980 1234,

DANDENONG Emerald Backpackers 03 5968 4086

MURRAY RIVER Echuca Gardens YHA 103 Av, Mitchell St, Echuca. 03 5480 6522, Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Ave, Mildura. 03 5022 7922, Oasis Backpackers 230 Deakin Av, Mildura. 04 0734 4251,

GIPPSLAND Prom Country Backpackers 03 5682 2614 Cambrai Hostel Maffra 117 Johnson St, Maffra. 1800 101 113

PHILLIP ISLAND Amaroo Park YHA 97 Church St, Cowes. 03 5952 3620, The Island Accommodation 10-12 Phillip Island Tourist Road. 03 5956 6123


Sorrento Foreshore Reserve Nepean Hwy. 1800 850 600,

Grampians YHA Eco Hostel Cnr Grampians & Buckler Rds, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4543,

Sorrento YHA 3 Miranda St, Sorrento. 03 5984 4323,

Tim’s Place 44 Grampians Road, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4288,

Stay. Play. Melbourne.


Accommodation from $22 a night (subject to availability)

Maximum 4 bed dormitories with linen and towel FREE all you can eat breakfast (cereal, toast and juice), weekly meal, rice and pasta, tea and coffee FREE in room oversized locker with personal power point 5 minute walk to city Large bar with big screen (all major sporting events shown) Drink specials at the bar Public transport on doorstep


Unique value tour packages

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TASLISTINGS HOBART STAY Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St. 1800 811 507,



Cataract Gorge Centre for Beer Lovers Boag’s Brewery, 39 William St. 03 6332 6300,

Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. 03 6231 2660,

Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 2 Invermay Rd & 2 Wellington St. 03 6323 3777,

Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801,

Tasmania Zoo 1166 Ecclestone Rd. 03 6396 6100,

Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977,


Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400,

SHELLAC Republic Bar. Oct 21. From $30 From perverse humour to mid-set Q&A’s, there’s nothing quite like the barely controlled chaos this Chicago rock trio unleash on stage.

HOBART DO Cascade Brewery 140 Cascade Rd. 03 6224 1117 Mt Wellington Descent Bike tours. 03 6274 1880


Port Arthur Historic Ghost Tours 1800 659 101,

Salamanca Markets Every Saturday, Salamanca Place. Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 5 Argyle St.


LAUNCESTON Arthouse Backpacker Hostel 20 Lindsay St. 1800 041 135,


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Launceston Backpackers 103 Canning St. 03 6334 2327, Lloyds Hotel 23 George St. 03 6331 9906,


Tasman Backpackers 114 Tasman St. 03 6423 2335,

Mt Roland Budget Backpacker Rooms 1447 Claude Rd, Gowrie Park. 03 6491 1385

CRADLE DO Devils at Cradle Tassie devil sanctuary. 3950 Cradle Mountain Rd. 03 6492 1491. Overland Track Six-day walk

FREYCINET Iluka Backpackers YHA Reserve Rd. 03 6257 0115, Freycinet National Park Brewery, Wineglass Bay camping. 03 6256 7000,

BICHENO Bicheno Backpackers 11 Morrison St. 03 6375 1651, Bicheno Penguin Tours 03 6375 1333,

CRADLE MTN Discovery Holiday Parks Cradle Mountain Rd. 1800 068 574,

STRAHAN, Strahan YHA 43 Harvey St. 03 6471 7255,

STRAHAN DO Four Wheelers Henty Sand Dunes quadbike tours. 04 1950 8175, Water by Nature Extreme multiday whitewater rafting. 1800 111 142,


Catherine Dow, 25, UK

Photo: Tourism Tasmania



Its been called a must-do Hobart experience, the ‘brewery tour’ and the ‘heritage tour’ will help educate you about its finest beers, you will visit the Cascade Museum along with the brewing process and a learn about a little something the brewers call ‘The Feel’. You will also be shown the beautiful Woodstock Gardens. It’s a cheap thrill with the cost for an adult being $22, seniors and students $17. There is quiet a lot of stair climbing but you will be glad to hear that you can relax with a cold beer tasting at the end of the two hour tour. This is Australia’s oldest brewery, which is located in South Hobart, established in 1832 next to the clean-running Hobart Rivulet, and still pumps out superb beer and soft drinks today.


WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN IN TAS? Everywhere, pretty much! Wineglass Bay, Launceston, Burnie, Penguin, Cradle Mountain, Hobart, Huon Valley – didn’t miss too much. FAVOURITE DAY SPOT? WHY? Cradle Mountain for sure. We spent the afternoon skimming rocks on Dove Lake and Ronny Creek. It was very peaceful. WHERE TO NEXT? Melbourne. We’re house sitting for a friends’ parents, which not only means a clean bowl to eat out of but free rent too.

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Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644,

BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park 20 Shadforth Road. 1800 501 984,

Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365,


Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250,

GOMEZ Darwin Trailer Boat Club. Oct 10 Genre-hopping UK band Gomez are hitting up the top end to kick off their electro-fuelled national tour.

Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302,

Deckchair Cinema Jervois Rd, Darwin Waterfront. 08 8981 0700,

Alice Springs Reptile Centre Meet and hold lizards. 9 Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 8900,

Nitmiluk Tours Gorge cruises and kayak hire. 1300 146 743

Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437,

Crocosaurus Cove Crocodile park and cage of death. 58 Mitchell St. 08 8981 7522,

ALICE DO Alice Springs Desert Park Larapinta Drive. 08 8951 8788,

Airborne Solutions Scenic helicopter flights. 08 8972 2345

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686,


Toddy’s Resort 41 Gap Rd. 1800 027 027,

Palm Court Kookaburra Backpackers Giles St. 1800 626 722

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St. 08 8981 5385,


Fannie Bay Gaol Heritage prison. East Point Road, Fannie Bay. 08 8941 2260, Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory 19 Conacher St, Bullocky Point. 08 8999 8264,

Oz Jet Boating Stokes Hill Wharf. 1300 135 595, Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise Adelaide River. 08 8978 9077, Wave Lagoon Waterfront Precinct.

TENNANT CREEK Tourist Rest Leichardt St. 08 8962 2719,

Outback Ballooning Hot air balloon rides. 1800 809 790, Royal Flying Doctor Service Base Museum and operations room. Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 1129,

ALICE SPRINGS Alice Lodge 4 Mueller St. 08 8953 1975, Alice Springs YHA Cnr Parsons St & Leichhardt Tce. 08 8952 8855, Annie’s Place 4 Traeger Ave. 1800 359 089,

Haven Resort 3 Larapinta Drive. 1800 794 663,

School of the Air Long-distance schooling museum. 80 Head St. 08 8951 6834, The Rock Tour Uluru tours. 78 Todd St. 1800 246 345,


Michelle Brant, UK WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN IN NT? I started at the very top in Darwin and worked my way down the Stewart Highway and on to Alice Springs, stopping off at Kakadu and Litchfield National Park’s. Of course a trip to Alice isn’t complete without a visit to Uluru. FAVOURITE DAY SPOT? It would definitely be Kakadu National Park. Swimming under the Jim Jim Falls with crocs is awesome and camping under the stars is a must. FAVOURITE NIGHTSPOT? The wildly entertaining Mindil Beach Markets. They provide a free night of hippy new age fun.




follow us on Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. 08 9287 3333,



The Old Swan Barracks 6 Francis St. 08 9428 0000, Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge. 08 9228 3755,


The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228,

THE RUBENS Capitol. Oct 5. From $23 With sell out shows along the east coast, take our word for it when we say you don’t want to miss out on these blues boys!



Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720,

Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080,

Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge. 08 9227 6000,

Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111,

Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553,

One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge. 1800 188 100,

PERTH DO Aquarium of Western Australia 91 Southside Drive, Hillarys. 08 9447 7500, Kings Park & Botanic Garden Perth Mint 310 Hay St. 08 9421 7223, Perth Zoo 20 Labouchere Road, South Perth. 08 9474 3551,


SMASH MOUTH Metropolis Freemantle. Oct 27. From $61 The All Star pop-rockers are back with their new single creeping up the charts. Their retro tunes will sure to have you Walkin’ on the Sun.


Amplifier Astor Mojo’s Bar The Bakery The Rosemount Hotel

FREO STAY Backpackers Inn Freo 11 Pakenham St. 08 9431 7065, Old Firestation Backpackers 18 Phillimore St. 08 9430 5454, Sundancer Backpackers Resort 80 High St. 08 9336 6080,

Photo: Tourism Tasmania



HORIZONTAL WATERFALLS With only two of these magical waterfalls in the entire world, jaw dropping are two words to describe what most people do when discovering both of them at Talbot Bay in the Buccaneer Archipelago of Australia’s North West. Your adrenalin junkie will be satisfied with a white water boat ride as well as the awe- inspiring view from the air. You can join a scenic flight or sea safari to the horizontal waterfalls from kooljaman in Cape Leveque, Broome or Derby. Your probably wondering what makes these water falls sideways, they are in fact the work of some of the largest tidal movements in the world. As the tide ebbs and flows, a huge volume of water is forced through tow narrow cliff passages, creating a variation in ocean level of up to four metres and a unique waterfall effect.




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Fremantle Markets Henderson Street Fremantle 08 9335 2515,

Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort Monkey Mia Road Monkey Mia 1800 653 611,

Fremantle Prison 1 The Terrace. 08 9336 9200,


ROTTNEST ISL Rottnest Island YHA Kingstown Barracks. 08 9372 9780, Rottnest Express 1 Emma Place North Fremantle 1300 Go Rotto

Blue Reef Backpackers 3 Truscott Crescent, Exmouth 1800 621 101, Ningaloo Club

MARGARET RIV Margaret River Lodge YHA 220 Railway Tce. 08 9757 9532,

Coral Bay 08 9948 5100, Excape Backpackers YHA Murat Rd, Exmouth.

Merel Storm, Holland

08 9949 1200,

Surfpoint 12 Riedle Drive Prevally 08 9757



WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN IN WA? I’ve been driving up the West Coast from Perth to Darwin. Before I set out I also visited the Margaret River. WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN STAYING? Nowhere specific really, we spend most of the time, including the nights, in our car. FAVOURITE DAY SPOT? WHY? Cable Beach. We did a camel ride, that was absolutely amazing. There were some people in our group crying because they were scared. That made the ride even more hilarious, imagine that, being so afraid of some camels.

Cable Beach Backpackers

Albany Bayview Backpackers YHA 49 Duke St 08 9842 3388,

12 Sanctuary Road.

Cruize-Inn 122 Middleton Rd. 08 9842 9599,

Kimberley Club

1800 655 011,

62 Fredrick St 08 9192 3233,

Aspen Parks Begin your re today... Darwin


nt e v d A n e p s A





Sa Perth

Nsw Sydney


Vic Melbourne Hobart


Visit our website for great accommodation specials and online bookings

Holiday Parks with a difference Australia Wide Western Australia Woodman Point Holiday Park Coogee Beach Holiday Park Perth Vineyards Holiday Park Exmouth Cape Holiday Park Blue Reef Backpackers Pilbara Holiday Park Cooke Point Holiday Park

1800 244 133 1800 817 016 1800 679 992 1800 621 101 1800 621 101 1800 451 855 1800 459 999

South Australia Port Augusta BIG4 Holiday Park 1800 833 444 Myall Grove Holiday Park 1800 356 103 Victoria Boathaven Holiday Park Geelong Riverview Tourist Park Golden River Holiday Park Yarraby Holiday Park Ashley Gardens BIG4 Holiday Village

1800 352 982 1800 336 225 1800 621 262 1800 222 052 1800 061 444

New South Wales A Shady River Holiday Park Maiden’s Inn Holiday Park Magic Murray Houseboats Murray River Holiday Park Wymah Valley Holiday Park Twofold Bay Beach Resort Wallamba River Holiday Park

1800 674 239 1800 356 801 1800 356 483 1800 357 215 1800 776 523 1800 631 006 1800 268 176

Queensland Island Gateway Holiday Park




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1 Oliver St. 1800 633 891,

Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25,

Riba’s Underground 1811 William Creek Rd. 08 8672 5614,

Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. 08 8414 3010,


Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753, Annie’s Place 239 Franklin St. 1800 818 011, Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307,


Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295,


Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181,

Fowlers Live. Oct 20. $32.50 Back to headline their own gigs, Sydney’s favourite indie-rock kids are setting off around Australia to unleash their new album Lake Air.

Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889,

ADELAIDE DO Adelaide Oval Home to the Donald Bradman collection. War Memorial Drive. 08 8300 3800 Adelaide Zoo

University of Adelaide

Frome Rd. 08 8267 3255, Haigh’s Chocolates Factory tours. 153 Greenhill Rd, Parkside 1800 819 757, Temptation Sailing Dolphin swimming, Glenelg. 04 1281 1838

BAROSSA VAL Barossa Backpackers 9 Basedow Road Tanunda. 08 8563 0198,

COOBER PEDY Opal Cave Coober Pedy Hutchinson St. 08 8672 5028, Radeka Down Under


13 The Strand, Port Elliot. 08 8554 2785

EYRE PENINSULA Coodlie Park Farmstay Flinders Highway, Port Kenny. 08 8687 0411

Kangaroo Island YHA 33 Middle Terrace, Penneshaw. 08 8553 1344

Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience Sea lion and dolphin swims. 08 8626 5017

Vivonne Bay Lodge 66 Knofel Drive, Vivonne Bay 13 13 01

Calypso Star Charters Great white shark cage diving. 08 8682 3939,

RIVERLAND Berri Backpackers Sturt Highway, Berri. 08 8582 3144, Harvest Trail Lodge Loxton. 08 8584 5646, Nomads on Murray Sturt Highway, Kingston on Murray. 1800 665 166, Riverland Backpackers Labour Hire Services 08 8583 0211

FLEURIEU PENIN Port Elliot Beach House YHA

Nullarbor Traveller Tours across to Perth. 1800 816 858 Port Lincoln Tourist Park 11 Hindmarsh St. 08 8621 4444, Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions Great white shark cage diving. 08 8363 1788

FLINDERS RANGES Angorichina Tourist Village 08 8648 4842, Wilpena Pound Resort Wilpena Rd. 08 8648 0004,


LAKE EYRE Taking a guided tour to the lake around midday you will experience a true phenomenon, the lake surface can often become very flat. The surface then reflects the sky in a way that leaves both the horizon and water surface virtually impossible to see. Whether you want to be floating up with the clouds or keeping your feet firmly on the ground, Lake Eyre has it all. You can take a hot air balloon at dawn over the Barossa Valley or try hiking the Heysen Trail. The 1,200 kilometre track stretches from Cape Jervis on the south coast to Parachilna Gorge in the Flinders Ranges. If being in the water is more your thing, you can dive through the wreckage of navy destroyer, ex-HMAS Hobart. A popular trail is to take the Underwater Heritage on Gulf St Vincent. This trail links four of the most historic wrecks: the Grecian, the Zanoni, Star of Greece and Norma which all sank between 1841 and 1893.



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Rent-A-Dent 0800 736 823,

Kiwi Experience +64 9366 9830 Magic Travellers Network +64 9358 5600, 0900 62533,

Rental Car Village +64 9376 9935, Spaceships 1300 139 091, Standby Cars 1300 789 059,

NZ Travelpass 0800 339 966,

Wicked Campers 1800 246 869,

Stray +64 9309 8772,


RENTAL FIRMS Ace Rental Cars 1800 140 026, Backpacker Campervan & Car Rentals +800 200 80 801, Bargain Rental Cars 0800 001 122,

Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. +64 9275 4443, Auckland International Backpackers (BBH) 2 Churton St, Parnell. +64358 4584,

Darn Cheap Rentals 0800 447 363,

Base Auckland 229 Queen St. 0800 227 369,

Econo Campers +64 9275 9919,

Bamber House (BBH) 22 View Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9623 4267,

Escape Rentals 1800 456 272, Explore More 1800 800 327, Jucy Rentals 0800 399 736,

The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. +64 9307 0181,

Nomads Capital 118 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237,

Base Discovery Lodge St. +64 Queenstown 49 Shotover St. +64 3441 1185,

Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. +64 9300 9999,

Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 McDonald Cres. +64 4384 3041,

Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286,

Oaklands Lodge (BBH) St. +64 5A Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9638 6545,

Rowena’s Backpackers (VIP) 115 Brougham St. 0800 80 1414

Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. +64 3443 7341,

Queen Street Backpackers (VIP) 4 Fort St. +64 9373 3471, Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. +64 9363 8889, YHA Auckland City Cnr City Rd & Liverpool St. +64 9309 2802, YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. +64 9302 8200,

WELLINGTON Base Wellington 21-23 Cambridge Tce. +64 4801 5666

Central City Backpackers 26 Lorne St. +64 9358 5685,

Downtown Wellington Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. +64 4473 8482

City Garden Lodge 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. +64 9302 0880

Lodge in the City (VIP) 152 Taranaki St. +64 4385 8560

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Backpacking just got easy as.

YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. +64 4801 7280


Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. +64 3442 5494,

Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. +64 3377 1897,

Hippo Lodge (BBH) 4 Anderson Hts. +64 3442 5785,

Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. +64 3366 9720,

Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. +64 3441 3922,

Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546,

Peterpans Adventure Travel 27 Shotover St Queenstown.

The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. +64 3381 5504,

Pinewood Lodge (VIP) 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 7463 9663,

Tranquil Lodge (BBH) 440 Manchester St. +64 3366 6500,

Southern Laughter (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 728 448,

Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. +64 3377 7931,




YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street. +64 3442 7400, YHA Queenstown Lakefront 8890 Lake Esplanade. +64 3442 8413,






NADI & WEST Aquarius Pacific Hotel +679 672 6000 Beach Escape Villas +679 672 4442, beachscape@ Cathay Hotel +679 666 0566,

mote ere. Visit the re ds, Fiji. - it s all th n la Is a w k , explore sa a Ya ay k , e iv el d Chill, snork

Horizon Backpackers +679 672 2832, Nadi Bay Resort Hotel +679 672 3599,


dv Awesome A


for backpacketravellers tive and alterna xperience the e

Nadi Down Town Backpackers Inn +679 670 0600, Nadi Hotel +679 670 0000, Nomads Skylodge Hotel +679 672 2200


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Saweni Beach Apartment Hotel +679 666 1777,

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Smugglers Cove +679 672 6578, smugglers Travellers Beach Resort +679 672 3322,



Complete freedom to explore the Yasawa Islands, including Beachcomber. Choose from a 5, 7, 10, 12, 15 or 21 day pass. Passes from $217

EASY FLEXIBLE PACKAGES Explore the real Fiji. From 5 to 11 nights. Includes vessel transfers, accommodation, meals and activities. Packages from $586

ISLAND ESCAPES A bit like survivor but a lot more fun! Strand yourself on one island for 2, 4 or 6 nights. If you can stand nd the pain of coral lagoons and coconut palms then stay longer. Packages from $224

Prices are ex Denarau, Fiji, in Australian dollars and valid for travel to 31 March 2013.



Tabukula Beach Bungalows +679 650 0097, The Uprising Beach Resort +679 345 2200, Tsulu Luxury Backpackers & Apartments +679 345 0065, Vakaviti Motel & Dorm +679 650 0526, Vilisite Place +679 650 1030

SUVA Colonial Lodge +679 92 75248,

Korovou Eco Tour Resort +679 666 6644

Raintree Lodge +679 332 0562,

Kuata Resort +679 666 6644

Royal Hotel +679 344 0024

Long Beach Backpackers Resort +679 666 6644

South Seas Private Hotel +679 331 2296,

Manta Ray Island +679 672 6351

Tailevu Hotel +679 343 0028

Wayalailai Island Resort +679 672 1377 White Sandy Beach Dive Resort +679 666 4066

MAMANUCA ISL Beachcomber Island Resort +679 666 1500, Bounty Island Resort +679 666 6999, Rau Kini’s Hostel +679 672 1959, The Funky Fish Beach Resort +679 628 2333,

AAF3373 - Issue 674

For info and bookings see your travel centre or contact us: phone1800 007 129 or SKYPE awesomefiji

Seashell Cove Resort +679 670 6100,

Leleuvia Island Resort +679 331 9567,

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Robinson Crusoe +679 629 1999,

Coconut Bay Resort +679 666 6644

Octopus Resort +679 666 6337

Straight out of your tropical Island Fantasy. Two island stays have always been extremely popular so we ve made it really easy for you with a matching of islands that we think make a great pair. Packages from $421

Rendezvous Dive Resort +679 628 4427,

Lami Lodge Backpackers +679 336 2240,

Oarsmans Bay Lodge +679 672 2921,

5 days 4 nights 2 islands

Pacific Safaris Club +679 345 0498,

Awesome Adventures Fiji +679 675 0499,

Nabua Lodge +679 666 9173


Mango Bay Resort +679 653 00690,

The Resort Walu Beach +679 665 1777,

CORAL COAST Beachouse +679 653 0500,

NORTH VITI LEVU Bethams Cottage +679 669 4132, Macdonalds Beach Cottages +679 669 4633 Morrison’s Beach Cottagess +679 669 4516, Safari Lodge Fijis +679 669 3333 Volivoli Beach Resort +679 669 4511,

VANUA LEVU Bayside Backpacker Cottage +679 885 3154, Hidden Paradise Guest House +678 885 0106 Naveria Heights Lodge +679 851 0157, Savusavu Hot Springs +679 885 0195,

TAVEUNI Albert’s Sunrise +679 333 7555 Matava Resort +679 330 5222,

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ALEX HARMON [Julia Gillard’s accent]


HUGH RADOJEV (Coffin bay oysters)


CAITLIN STANWAY (Fruit chocolate)



LISA FERRON (Lobethal Bierhaus)

a) Three million c) One million





(It’s wine heaven)

are best known for producing what? a) Wine b) Salt c) Dairy d) Olive Oil

Q 5. South Australia is also known as the “ – “ state? a) Festival State b) Happy State c) Hairy State d) Chutney State


is the most popular sport in Q 8.theWhat state? a) Cricket c) Rugby League

b) Aussie Rules d) Lawn Bowls

Q 9. What is the state’s main floral emblem? a) Sturt’s Desert Pea b) Magnolia c) Slater’s Sunflower d) Southern Daisy









a) 1654 b) 1802 c) 1892 d) 1902




3. What’s the capital of South Australia? a) Adelaide b) Port Lincoln c) Whyalla d) Capital City

ANSWERS: 1. a 2. c 3. a 4. a 5. a 6. b 7. b 8. b 9. a


6. The northern part of the state is almost entirely made up of? a) Lakes b) Desert c) Farmland d) Forest

South Australian coastline was Q 7.firstThemapped in?

b) 500,000 d) Five million

Q 4. The Barossa Valley and Adelaide Hills


b) 1834 d) 1965

is the approximate population Q 2.of What the state as of 2012?


TOM WHEELER (Nullarbor Traveller)


What year was South Australia Q 1.founded as a state?









9 3


4 5










An idiotic, foolish or stupid person. Said to originate from a 1920s racehorse that failed to win a single race in its entire career: “Stop carrying on like a bloody drongo!”

$1,503 $1,398

+ $105

$669 $105 $564 +

greyhound_701.indd 1

25/09/12 5:33 PM

TNT Downunder 701  

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