ESCAPE TO 3 BEER CITIES: ASHEVILLE, LOUISVILLE, & RICHMOND MIKE MURPHY PAIRS BELLATERRA CIGARS WITH MANTRA ARTISAN ALES NUIT BELGE 2016
MEET MARTY VELAS, TENNESSEE'S CRAFT BEER MISSIONARY
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| VOLUME II NO II
Nuit Belge 2016
Waves and Stone’s on the James River
Marty Velas, tennessee’s Craft Beer Missionary
Louisville, KY: Small city, big love for craft beer.
DEPARTMENTS 8 PAIRINGS: Nancy Vienneau goes light and crisp at The Hook
10 SMOKE SHOP: Bellaterra and Mantra: a match made in leather lounge chair heaven
18 BREWERY PROFILE: Brewers combine for a perfect colla-beer-ation. (Sorry, we couldn’t resist.)
19 BREWERY PROFILE: The rise of Greenman
26 LEGAL Breaking down the maze of legal roadblocks in the brewing industry
30 SOCIAL DRINK: Tenn South distills whiskey with love
37 HOMEBREW: Briarscratch brings it down to Cottontown
38 LAST CALL: Wiseacre rounds out the issue with a front-running lineup
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
hange is in the air and all around us. Craft breweries, for instance, are opening at a rate of over 2 per day. In fact, the last number of operating breweries as reported by the Brewers Association was a record of 4,144, surpassing the previous record of 4,131 from way back in 1873 . Big news! And when you consider
the low of only 89 was as recent as 1978. So as beer and the beer industry grows and changes, Tennessee Craft Beer Magazine is committed to remaining your primary source for in depth reporting on the industry and the beer scene. One thing you may notice new is the lack of a regional brewery report. As a quarterly magazine, the information there was not timely or viable. The craft beer scene moves fast! The beer map will be your guide to the breweries, openings, and anything new. And not to sell it, but I hear people are putting the map on a wall then pinning or noting the breweries they have attended. Just saying. The magazine will use that space to provide even more in depth reporting and industry coverage. But before we get into the issue, a tragedy befell the beer community in Tennessee. Sam Beall, the 39 year old owner of Blackberry Farm, died in a skiing accident leaving behind a wife and five kids. He took
over the farm in 1998 from his parents and grew it into a resort recognized as the number one hotel in N. America, the number one hotel for food lovers, as well as winning multiple James Beard awards. He started the brewery in 2011, and their Summer Saison won a silver medal at the most recent Great American Beer Festival in Denver. I had a chance to hang out with the brewers at the after party of the recent Tailspin Beer Festival in Louisville (a great event covered in this issue). They were extremely excited about, well everything. Seeing them again, however, at the Nuit Belge event in Nashville, they were still utterly speechless. Blackberry Farms will live on, but a great man will be sorely missed. Our prayers to his family and friends. Time for a pint. Cheers, Don.
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Smoke Shop | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
Craig Disque Publisher
Didi Rainey Senior Editor
Laura Jane Walker Sales and Marketing
Jason Carpenter Whitney Allen
Ellis Humphres Contributors
Nancy Vienneau Chris Chamberlain Kendall Joseph Veronica de la Cruz-Gibbs Rob Shomaker Tony Giannasi Kate Faulkner Stephanie Carson Art Whitaker Stylist
Teresa Blackburn Photographers
Stephanie Mullins Shelley Justiss Brandon Lunday Holly Rainey Bill Seymour FIND US ONLINE tncraftbeermag.com facebook.com/TNCBG @tncraftbeermag #TNbeer #tnbeer Get 4 issues delivered for $25. Visit TnCraftBeerMag.com/subscribe ÂŠ2016 Tennessee Craft Beer Magazine must give permission for any material contained herein to be reproduced in any manner. Any advertisements published in Tennessee Craft Beer Magazine do not constitute an endorsement of the advertiserâ€™s services or products. Tennessee Craft Beer Magazine is published quarterly by distinguished individuals that have a fervent and lifelong thirst for craft beer. We challenge you to doubt our resolve. Parties interested in advertising should email Didi@TnCraftBeerMag.com or call 256.226.5615.
TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016 | 7
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Pairings
HOOKED ON GREAT TASTES Craft Beer and The Hook | By Nancy Vienneau | Photos by Stephanie Mullins | Food Stylist, Teresa Blackburn
t’s a mouthful to say, yet happens to be a top national food trend for 2016: The local, chef-driven, fast-casual concept. Witness: David Chang’s Fuku in NYC, Rick Bayless’ Xoco in Chicago, Jose Andres’ Beefsteak in DC. These places appeal for their chef-designed fare using responsibly sourced ingredients at a lower price point. In other words, fine cuisine served in casual fast food fashion. Trend-wise, Nashville is on it—check out The Hook, a new seafood and chicken shack recently opened in the Melrose neighborhood. Acclaimed chef Dale Levitski,
working with the restaurant team, designed a clever, creative menu that gives diners fresh upscale takes battered-and-fried, with flavors to hook you, and reel you in. Now overseen by executive chef Vasisht Ramasubramanian (better known as Chef V), who brings another layer of creativity and spice, The Hook has become the gathering spot for great food, cocktails and craft brews, whether inside the cheery joint or out on the deck. Combining nautical and musical elements, the décor is bright and breezy. The vibe is laid back, the kind of place you like to find on a beach trip. The
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kind of place you go when spring fever hits, and before you know it, a lazy afternoon suddenly is a star-filled night. With that carefree Spring Fever ideal in mind, Chef V has put together some Hook favorites with terrific seasonal pairings. Start with the Crispy Catch, The Hook’s savvy homage to fish-and chips. Luscious planks of cod coated in Tennessee beer batter are deep-fried to golden crunch. Give ‘em a squeeze of fresh lemon, a dunk in the house chow-chow tartar sauce---it’s got just the right pickle tang. They’re plated with red cabbage slaw, for lively color and bite, and
Pairings | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
fries, of course. What more could you want? How about a cold draft of Little Harpeth’s Chicken Scratch? This American pilsner has crisp clean malt, a hazy golden hue, and a hint of sweetness from the addition of locally grown corn in the brew. This one is easy going— and sure goes down easy. For something seafaring that’s a little more daring, The Hook presents the Charred Octopus Salad. Warm and cool: tender-braised and char-grilled octopus sections are arranged atop couscous and curried vegetables, finished with fresh mint and shards of ricotta salata. To accompany this complex dish, Chef V likes Bluff City, Tennessee Brew Works’ citrus-forward APA. The medium-bodied amber brew has assertive American hoppiness held in check by malt and a piney top note. Borrowing the best ideas of the New Orleans’ Po-boy and the Vietnamese Banh mi, The Hook’s PO MI sandwich has it all: crusty baguette spread with mirin aioli, and filled with creamy crab salad. Wonderful peppery crunch of fried Creole shrimp crown the crabmeat, with a layering of paper-thin pickled vegetables at the base. Sprigs of fresh cilantro and slices of jalapeno complete this sandwich masterpiece. Enjoy it with a Damascene Apricot Sour— Tin Man Brewing Company’s traditionally soured ale blended with pure apricot juice. The Evansville Indiana brewery gives it the right sourness—tart but not acidic—and a lingering stonefruit taste that refreshes. Like a spring afternoon, drink it in. RECIPE THE HOOK’S AWESOME BEER BATTER Chef V shares his recipe for beer batter, used on the Crispy Catch.
2 cups All Purpose Flour (a low-gluten flour such as cake flour makes things crispier) 2 cup Cornstarch 2 tablespoons Baking Powder 1 tablespoon salt 3 cups very cold Beer (your choice, but Chef V recommends a light ale) Sift the dry ingredients together in a large mixing bowl. Pour the beer into the flour mixture and combine well, using a whisk. It’s okay if there are a few lumps. Keep the batter cold. Use for batter-dipped fish fillets, onions rings, or as a substitution for tempura batter. TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016 | 9
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Smoke Shop
BELLATERRA RANCH & MANTRA ARTISAN ALES MAKES THE PERFECT PAIRING | By Mike Murphy | Photography by Bill Seymour | Shot on location at The Smokey Cigar
t seemed that cigar-to-beverage pairings would always consist solely of cognacs, whiskeys and port. But now, given the advent of amazing craft and IPA beers, beer has become the new “ideal” accompaniment to cigars. This new pairing phenomenon boasts endless combinations and is already spawning theories, opinions and personal tastes. So if you are anxious to experience this, let’s get started on the right track. It’s no surprise that cigars are “hot” right now, growing in sales every year in the U.S. since 2012. The growth is due primarily to two things; 1) just like the beer industry, there are great new, boutique cigar companies who are thinking out-of-the-box to create exciting and flavorful blends, 2) the fact that Cuban cigars are now in the news because of the 52 year embargo finally being lifted, has more people curious about
this new phenomena, and although Cuban cigars are not sold in the U.S., it’s captured the curiosity of many. As a result, gone are the days of stogies being enjoyed by the rich and famous, today everyone seems to be lighting up. You don’t need to be a cigar fanatic to enjoy a fine cigar, but there’s just something special, and very relaxing, about sitting down with an hour-long cigar and your favorite glass (or two) of craft beer. There’s no better way to spend quality time with friends…over a herf! (yes it’s a real word: the act of sitting down with friends over a cigar) Like most things, beer-cigar pairing is a subjective experience. What you fancy, another may not. But to get you started off in a good direction, we spent a few days doing some of the groundwork for you. I don’t intend to establish firm rules,
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boundaries or proclamations for combining cigars with craft beer. Instead, here are some guidelines, tips and insights from a longtime cigar and wine maker (Bellaterra Ranch), craft beer lover and qualified pairing enthusiast. First of all, let’s start with some very simple cigar basics: Cigars are typically referred to by the outside wrapper (tobacco); - Connecticut refers to a light color (tan) wrapper and also typically the mildest level of cigar - Habano is a mid shade (brown) and is medium in strength - Maduro is dark brown (approaching black) and is associated with a full strength cigar
Smoke Shop | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
In the most general of terms, a Connecticut cigar is going to pair best with a wheat beer or mild IPA, a Habano with an ale and Maduro with a stout. But believe me, you will experience many exceptions to this general rule. “Pairing” can be considered in two ways: 1) coexist, 2) enhance (my favorite). When two things coexist it means they can be enjoyed together, one doesn’t over power the other, but when they enhance, they actually make each other better! I had heard great things about what was happening with Mantra Artesian Ales, one of Nashville’s (Franklin) hottest new microbreweries, and after hearing their interesting approach to food, flavor, and mad scientist skills I decided to spend a few days sampling their line-up. Although Mantra had over 15 beers to choose from we narrowed it down to a few great beers and excellent pairings and one awesome surprise.
Recommended Pairing #1: Mantra Noveau (Belgian style Amber) and Double Deuce Toro The pairing created a tasting coexistence allowing me to completely enjoy the super nutty, toasty, dark fruit flavor of the beer and the cocoa, toasty, leather flavor of the cigar. This beer and cigar resembled each other in many respects, both had a clean finish and high flavor, and some spice on the back palate. The Bellaterra Double Deuce cigars use Nicaraguan tobacco for the wrapper and Dominican, Nicaraguan and Honduran tobaccos for the filler and binder. The outer leaf imparts full flavored spicy rich character over the smooth and creamy flavor.
Recommended Pairing #2: Mantra Arctic Shill Scotch Ale and Pigurado Cotui, aka The PIG! Both the Arctic Shill and the PIG started out with light flavor front end, delicate and
subtle, and then mid to back palate a tasty sensation where the honey and sweetness of the PIG met the malty flavors of the Scotch Ale. They were both so pleasant together making me want to kick back, relax and light up another! The Bellaterra Pigurado Cotui cigars use an exclusive Dominican wrapper, and Dominican and Nicaraguan filler and binder. The outer leaf imparts balanced earthy flavors. The Pig is a smooth cigar and medium in strength, although beware, the strength increases in the final third of the cigar.
Recommended Pairing #3: Surprise!! Milk Chai Stout (Milk stout infused with chai tea) and Black & Tan Double Robusto This pairing kind of broke all the rules. A light/mild cigar with a stout wasn’t what we were expecting but they actually enhanced each other! I was already aware that the Black & Tan goes beautifully with coffee (making it my most popular morning cigar), but the pairing with the Chai was a surprise. The Milk Chai Stout has notes of cocoa with delicate chai – if Oprah Winfrey wants a beer, this would be it! In addition, the Milk Chai Stout is a bit chewey, with dark blueberry and chocolate notes; and, oh, it has layers of flavor! Together with the Black & Tan they maintained a nice weight on my palate and were silky smooth and enhancing from start to finish. Bellaterra Ranch, with headquarters in Franklin TN, is celebrating their 12th anniversary as an award-winning producer of fine wines and cigars. Bellaterra’s wine operations are in Napa, CA and Cigar production in Dominican Republic and Nicaragua. Some of Bellaterra’s other cigars include the La Dolce Vita, Family Reserve, Pigurado Maduro, Porto Cocoa, and VOLUNTEER. Bellaterra produces cigars for other brands to pair with wine, scotch/ whiskey, coffee, beer and moonshine. See more at www.bellaterraranch.com
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Feature | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
JOHNNY SHIELDS AND MATT LEFF
BLACKBERRY FARMS STAFF
CHEF BRIAN BAXTER OF HUSK
NUIT BELGE 2016 | By Chris Chamberlain | Photos by
uit Belge was certainly not your average beer festival. Held on Saturday night March 12 at Marathon Music Works, this event was ultra-high class from beginning to end. With nary a pretzel necklace or pocket beer in sight, five hundred patrons assembled to enjoy an evening of eating and drinking as more than a dozen of Nashville’s finest restaurants and their chefs created inventive pairings to complement tastings of exotic Belgian and domestic beers. Blackberry Farm out of Walland, TN was one of this year’s sponsors and provided the food and tastings of four expressions of their Brett Saison at a private VIP reception that was limited to only 40 lucky ticket buyers. At less than a $50 upcharge over the regular Nuit Belge ticket, this was undoubtedly the bargain of the night with the opportunity to interact for an extra ninety minutes with the culinary and brewery staff from Blackberry Farm in the intimate environment of The Oak Room at Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery. Considering I’ve accidentally spent that much money at Chili’s, this was a much better use of my funds. VIP attendees also got a ten minute head start on the throngs entering the main room at Marathon Music Works, and this also gave the Blackberry Farm staff a chance to set up next door as part of the full Nuit Belge offering. My first impression of the room was that it might just have been the best-smelling place I’ve ever experienced as the tastings from the assembled chef talents situated behind tables ringing the room combined to fire off my aroma sensors. After my knees unbuckled, I set about tasting my way around the room to the funky tones of a talented brass band providing the entertainment. Levon Wallace of Cochon Butcher shared a long table with Brian Baxter of Husk,
a murderers’ row of culinary talent that was stunning to behold. In fact, I dare say that the assembled chefs at Nuit Belge represented the most culinary creativity in one place in Nashville since Thomas Keller was alone in his hotel room during his visit a couple years ago. Wallace presented two of my favorite dishes of the evening. The first was a bowl of rich pork belly broth and noodles, known in New Orleans as yakamein, or colloquially as “redneck ramen.” Paired with a tasting of Brouwerij Bosteels Tripel Karmeliet, the creamy dry beer complemented the unctuous salty fat of the soup perfectly. Wallace’s other dish was a simple cold-smoked oyster topped with celery, creme fraiche and sumac that was a lovely and lively pairing with Goose Island’s Lolita, a pale ale aged on raspberries in wine barrels. Chef Baxter, who was coincidentally celebrating his birthday, gave the rest of us a present to mark the occasion. In addition to a popular black cocoa pudding, Baxter offered what I think was my favorite bite of the evening. Noting that his assigned beer of Starr Hill Peppercorn Farmhouse Ale had a strong pepper character, Baxter constructed a lettuce wrap stuffed with Bear Creek Farms smoked oxtail cooked down to a jammy consistency with his own elevated version of peppery General Tso’s sauce and topped with pickled onion, cilantro, cucumber and a crackling made from compressed beef tendon that took him days to concoct. Although the dish looked effortless, knowing the amount of preparation that Baxter and the Husk staff put into that single bite made it even more special. Other standouts around the room included Matt Bolus of The 404 Kitchen’s super salty cured mushrooms that danced on the tongue when accompanied by the intensely tart Hanssens Lambic
Experimental Cassis. City House’s Braunschweiger with pretzel crackers was utterly gout-inducing and totally worth it paired with Local 1 from Brooklyn Brewery. A snafu in her fish delivery from Hawaii forced Two Ten Jack chef Jess Benefield to call an audible on her planned Walu dish, but she cleverly substituted another excellent fish dish, and her yakitori duck tsukune played nicely with the malty La Trappe Bock. Other available tasting experiences included cheeses from Whole Foods, Olive & Sinclair chocolate and a selection of oysters being freshly shucked at the back of the concert hall. Anyone who went home hungry or thirsty just wasn’t trying hard enough, because even though the lines got a bit long at times, the chefs efficiently fed the masses and kept the waits short. In their second year of organizing Nuit Belge, organizers Matt Leff and Johnny Shields of Rhizome Productions have created an event where beer lovers can leave the jeans and t-shirts at home in favor of dressing up to exalt fine food and the special beers that inspire the chefs that cook it. Leff and Shields have also expanded Nuit Belge into a regional tour with Blackberry Farm and other sponsors joining with local chefs in New Orleans, Atlanta and Charleston. As the event continues to grow in reputation, the organizers intend to keep the number of tickets sold low to allow for personal interaction and to let the chefs show off their chops without being overloaded. My only complaint was that the evening happened to fall on the night when we set the clocks forward and lose an hour. If anything, I would have liked Nuit Belge to last even longer!
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THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Feature
MARTY VELAS, TENNESSEE’S CRAFT BEER MISSIONARY | By Rob Shomaker
He may not seem like the craft beer type off the cuff. Medium height, a lean build, chiseled jaw and always, seemingly, a smile. However, this man’s roots in beer run deep, very deep and span not only this continent but across the sea. His is a name that is very well known in beer circles well beyond the borders of our fair state, yet he calls Knoxville home and has for 21 years.
or those of us in East Tennessee, Marty Velas has been a pretty prominent figure in the craft beer scene. We’re all very familiar with this work at Copper Cellar/Smoky Mountain Brewery and his new venture, Fanatic Brewing Company. He’s a huge supporter in the community as he’s supported many charitable and philanthropic events over the years. Marty even will, on occasion, wear his authentic lederhosen to liven up the crowd. Brewer’s in the area would say that he’s an excellent collaborator and always willing to lend a hand, equipment or supplies. What many people don’t know is Marty’s story. To some of us he is the face of Fanatic and one of the driving forces behind the success of Smoky Mountain Brewery but to the national brewing community, he’s much more than that.
It was a cold day in January as I entered the brewery. Marty was bundled up filling kegs of pale ale from a repurposed fermenter turned brite tank called “Thing 1.” Immediately to “Thing 1’s” right sits, as you would expect, “Thing 2” and they both are worthy of the name. While I had prepared a question set for Marty, conversation always comes easy. After catching up I shared with him that my goal was to tell his story. He laughed a bit to suggest that he was surprised anyone would want to hear his story but we were here, the two of us, in the cavernous brewery with kegs needing to be filled, so the story began. Californian by birth, born to parents with roots in Czechoslovakia. In 1977, at the age of 16, while on a trip to see family in the motherland, Marty discovered beer. The pilsner style to be exact. The flavor, the color, this wasn’t like anything at home.
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After he returned to the states, in 1978, his father allowed him to begin homebrewing in the garage. Just so happened that this was also the year that homebrewing was federally legalized, not that many homebrewers were paying any attention. As fate would have it, America’s oldest home brewing club, The Maltose Falcons, was meeting in a shop 8 miles away from Marty’s home, so he got involved. So involved in fact that he served as their president from 1980 to 1982 which, at the time, had over 200 members. He also got involved in the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) shortly thereafter. College was also in Marty’s future. He attended California State at Northridge where he received an Electrical Engineering degree – knowledge that would later serve him very well. Through this program he landed a job at Hughes Aircraft designing guidance systems for smart bombs.
Feature | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
However, when Hughes Aircraft decided to move to Tuscon, Arizona, Marty jumped ship. His wife, Solange, now of 28 years, was a teenage crush when she helped him brew his first batch of beer in 1978. Solange encouraged Marty to take a job at Alpine Hofbrau in Torrance, California as a brewer and like all smart men, he took her advice. As part of Marty’s onboarding he spent 4 months training at Hofbrauhaus Traunstein in Southern Bavaria before returning to Alpine. At the time microbreweries were popping up all over California and it just so happened that Alpine had the capacity to do some contract brewing, so they did. Through this opportunity Marty was able to expand his brewing network even further which eventually led him to an opportunity with Bohemian Brewing Systems. These systems were made in Hungary and the Czech Republic and then shipped to the US. Bohemian needed someone to help setup these systems and assist customers with recipe formulation. Marty, with both an engineering and brewing background, was the man for the job. Bohemian took Marty all over the country and many other places around the globe. It was in 1993 that Marty made a stop in Knoxville. There was a little brewery on Gay Street called Smoky Mountain Brewery. This brewery was unaffiliated with the brewery we know by the same name. The current tenant, Woodruff Brewing Company, still uses the Bohemian system that Marty helped setup. In 1994 Marty returned to Knoxville to setup Calhoun’s in Bearden Hill. It wasn’t uncommon for Marty to receive job offers from these breweries as he set them up. After all, he was also assisting with recipe formulation, would train the brewers and was a likable guy. What business owner wouldn’t at least ask? As a matter of fact, in 1994 he was also acting as the Interim Brewmaster at Fredericksburg Brewing Company in Fredericksburg, Texas. It’s this point in Marty’s professional timeline that he tells me he’s most proud of; introducing craft beer to Japan. Through Bohemian, Marty was sent west where he was able to introduce several styles of beer that had never been produced in the country. He was also the “brewer of record” for the 1st craft brewery in Japan, Echigo Brewery. He shared that it was an incredibly exciting, even surreal, time as the legal system was catching up and, as a result, he was interview on TV, regularly referenced in magazines and appeared before several governmental agencies as the red tape was removed. Within 2 years there were 200 breweries in Japan. While these experiences were incredible there were two serious job offers on the table. As Marty and Solange were looking to begin their family the need to settle down became more apparent. The first offer, a brewery in Sonoma, California and
the second, an offer from Copper Cellar in Knoxville, TN. Marty and Solange evaluated both areas even going as far as to look at housing. It was a bad vibe Marty experienced while in Sonoma coupled with the desire to experience the east coast that landed these two in Knoxville in 1995. Marty tells me he thought it would be a short venture and within a few years he would be on to another place. Twenty-one years later they haven’t left and don’t plan to. As it turns out Marty had already suggested that Copper Cellar consider the Smoky Mountain Brewery name when the first brewery to bear its name shut its doors. The powers that be heeded his advice and in 1996 the Smoky Mountain Brewery in Gatlinburg was launched. Pigeon Forge and Turkey Creek also came online during Marty’s tenure. Countless recipes were formulated, perfected and brought forth. However, in 2014 it was time for a change. Marty left Smoky Mountain and set out to write a chapter on brewing purely for himself. I vividly recall Marty telling me shortly after Fanatic Brewing Company opened its doors that, “This, this is for me. One day, if they’d like, maybe my kids will work here.” With his original partner off to other ventures Marty is calling the shots now. He’s perfected two initial recipes, a blonde and a pale ale. While many criticize a man with such talent for coming out of the gate with a blonde his response is very simple, “This is a beer for the 94%.” A gateway beer of sorts. It’s a beer that any macro beer drinker would find palatable and perhaps, as Marty suggests, they may try something else. Criticize as people may, many bars and restaurants in the area are moving this beer - fast. That certainly helps to keep the lights on and sustain a still very new operation. The Fanatic Pale Ale may be as perfect of a text book example as you can get. Marty joked about the hype around session IPAs, “It’s a pale ale!” he laughed, “Let’s call it what it is!” While he could have come out with an IPA he wanted a beer someone would be willing to have more than one of. Smart. While he’s a brewer at heart Marty knows this market and how to move product. He tells me his vision is kind of selfish in that this allows him to do what he likes to do. Retirement also isn’t on the horizon, “Overrated” he says with a smile. Fanatic, he sees it as a local brewery with perhaps no more than a 200 mile reach. A local following, local ingredients. A tasting room is on the horizon and now that a few of the main line beers are on tap, the sky is the limit for Marty Velas. First impressions are often false. Marty Velas has made a career, a life, out of craft beer. He has taken his recipes and knowledge all over the world, “missions work” I heard him once say. I have a feeling he has only begun. TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016 | 15
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Feature
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Feature | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
6448 Nolensville Rd (615) 283-8657
2805 Old Fort Pkwy (615) 295-2332
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THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Brewery Profile
TRICITIES BREWERS COLLABORATE FOR SEASONAL BREW | By Stephanie Carson
t was a meeting of the minds with a “hoppy” ending. In early February, eight brewers gathered at Bristol Brewing Company in Bristol, Virginia for the second annual Brew Day for TRI-Local. TRI-Local II is the second edition of a collaboration beer among the eight brewers in Northeast Tennessee and Southwest Virginia. Among those represented – Sleepy Owl Brewery, Bristol Brewing, Studio Brew, Depot Street Brewing, JRH Brewing, Johnson City Brewing Company, Gypsy Circus Cider Company and Holston River Brewing Company. Andrew Fisher, director of the Tri-Cities Craft Beer Week, says the brew is a manifestation of a larger goal. “We’re trying to a spotlight on the industry and illustrate how much it means for the area from a tourism and financial perspective,” he said. Ken Monyak, owner of Bristol Brewing, is a relative newcomer to the beer scene in the area, and says what he experienced on Brew Day is invaluable. “It’s an opportunity I wouldn’t normally get. For me that’s what this collaboration is about – it’s more than just a beer we’re brewing – it’s also about learning how to
brew with people who have been brewing for years and years,” he said. TRI-Local will be available for Tri Cities Craft Beer Week – happening April 2 – 9th at select bars and restaurants in the region. This year’s brew is a White IPA with orange zest brewed on Bristol Brewing’s 10-barrel system. Last year’s was a Belgian style made with blood oranges. TRI Local I sold out its kegs before even hitting the market last year and this year brewers expect their concoction to be even more popular. “We’re going less funky than last year – more approachable than last year, more citrus foreword. Hopefully this year when someone is drinking one of these beers, they’ll say how is this different from last year, maybe they’ll get an idea of what brewers are about locally and get an idea of the mixture,” shared Devin Rutledge, brewer at Depot Street Brewing. The collaboration is the brainchild of the Tri Cities Brewer’s Guild and SuperFly Fabulous Events, organizers of the Tri Cities Craft Beer Week. The goal is that TRI Local becomes a coveted, anticipated release, much like Highland’s Cold Mountain.
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“When we did the first collaboration it was a sign of camaraderie and talents. With the influx of new brewers, I thought this was important to make this a main stay for the week”, said Fisher. This year brewer’s welcomed the region’s first cidery – Gypsy Circus Cider Company – which will begin distribution to east Tennessee in April. “I got to sit down and be a part of the recipe discussion. Not only am I involved with making cider and get to know about brewing beer as well,” said Andrew Felty, sales representative for Gypsy Circus. A common point of discussion for the day – beyond the recipe – was the fact that the eight breweries and a cidery participating see each other as allies and comrades – and not competitors. “Part of my point having these guys in here is because they are so free with sharing information, and everybody agrees that if we all make good beer – it just boosts everybody’s opportunity in the marketplace, so if we can all make good beer then we can all prosper. It truly is a collaboration – not just in beer or recipe but in the business and in the community,” said Monyak.
Brewery Profile | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
GREENMAN BREWERY PUTS A BIG FOOTPRINT ON ASHEVILLE’S SOUTHSLOPE Brewery attributes part of their growth to distribution to states like Tennessee. | By Stephanie Carson
t’s an imposing structure. The three-story bricked building with its fortress-like façade looks like it’s been on the corner of Buxton and South Lexington Avenue in downtown Asheville. But the Greenman Brewery campus has sprouted up faster than kudzu vines on I-40 and on March 10th the brewery unveiled it’s more than five-million dollar expansion to beer lovers from North Carolina to Tennessee and beyond. Director of marketing and public relations Elise Carlson says the expansion increases their fermentation capacity by 30-percent and will enable them to expand their specialty and sour offerings. In a town like Asheville where you can throw a rock at a brewery no matter which way you turn on the street, what’s driving Greenman to make more beer? It comes down to one word says Carlson, “distribution.” In 2014 Greenman began distributing to markets outside of Asheville, including Tennessee. It’s no secret that distribution is a complex maze of state laws that could
make any brewery owner light-headed, but Greenman owner Dennis Thies knew where to start. “Not every owner would know how to maneuver the distribution game, but Dennis had the background,” explains Carlson. Thies’s family owned a distributor in Florida for two generations and when he purchased Greenman in 2009 he brought that business savvy to the brewery. Carlson says Greenman has seen healthy growth in the Tennessee market, with boosts from brands like Tupelo Honey Restaurant that included the brewery in their tap selection as they expended into Tennessee. “The flagships are so popular in Tennessee. People are gaining an appreciation for high quality and craft beer,” she said. So back to the new facility. First let me say that pictures don’t do it justice and reading my description is only going to make you want to hop in your car for a road trip – but here we go. Be jealous. Upon entering, visitors are greeted by two-story mosaic of the actual “green man”
made of slate and stone. The curved bar with a bevy of polished tap handles makes you run up for a beer so fast you almost trip. Every inch of the décor screams the natural and organic feel that are part of the Greenman Brand and its Asheville home. Don’t drink too much yet, because if you can make it past the first bar (which I encourage you do) – a large staircase leads you up to another barroom and what can best be described as an activity table for adults with beautiful, polished stones to stack and roll. Picture a toddler’s sand table for grownups. Opposite the table is a long, double-sided bar that opens up to a large patio with a big screen TV and a heater for those cool mountain evenings. Visitors will also be able to get a bird’s eye view of the production floor with new fermentation tanks and a state of the art bottling line and keg wash station. And speaking of visiting. You can register for a free tour on Greenman’s website, but be sure and plan ahead. Carlson says they’re almost always full.
TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016 | 19
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Brewery Profile
1 2 3 4 5
6 Blues City Brewery LLC › citybrewery.com 7 Rockn’ Dough Pizza Co. › rockndoughpizza.com 8 Perrylodgic Brewing Company › perrylodgic.com
High Cotton Brewing Company › highcottonbrewing.com Boscos Squared › boscosbeer.com Wiseacre Brewery › wiseacrebrew.com Ghost River Brewing Co. › ghostriverbrewing.com Memphis Made Brewing Company, LLC. › memphismadebrewing.com
11 32 31
12 24 14
19 18 16 5 17 1
41A 412 45 51
BOTTLE SHOPS / GROWLER STATION 1 2 3 4
Mr. Whiskers › on.fb.me/1NcnvR0 Mt Juliet Market › mtjulietmarket.com Priest Point Wine & Spirits › liquorinnashvilletn.com Melrose Wine and Spirits › on.fb.me/20B2djS
31 32 33 34 35
Big Frog Brewing Company › bigfrogbrewery.com McHale’s Brewhouse › mchalesbrewhouse.com Big River Grille & Brewing Works › bigrivergrille.com Hutton & Smith Brewing Co. › huttonandsmithbrewing.com Chattanooga Brewing Co. › chattabrew.com
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5 The Casual Pint › thecasualpint.com 6 Homegrown Taproom & Marketplace › homegrownnashville.com 7 Athena Wine & Spirits › athenawine.com Feature your bottle shop here! Contact us for more information.
SOUTH 36 Terminal BrewHouse › terminalbrewhouse.com 37 Moccasin Bend Brewing Company › bendbrewingbeer.com 38 Big River Grille & Brewing Works (Hamilton Place) › bigrivergrille.com 39 Binary Brew Works › 10101brew.com
Brewery Profile | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
9 Blackhorse Pub & Brewery › theblackhorsepub.com 10 BriarScratch Brewing › briarscratchbrewing.com 11 Honky Tonk Brewing Co. 12 Little Harpeth Brewing › littleharpethbrewing.com 13 TailGate Beer › tailgatebeer.com 14 Blackstone › blackstonebrewery.com 15 Yazoo Brewing Company › yazoobrew.com 16 Jackalope › jackalopebrew.com 17 Tennessee Brew Works › tnbrew.com 18 Czann’s Brewing Co LLC 19 Rock Bottom Nashville › rockbottom.com 20 Fat Bottom Brewing › fatbottombrewing.com 21 The Black Abbey Brewing Company, LLC › blackabbeybrewing.com
Cool Springs Brewery › coolspringsbrewery.com MIDDLE Granite City Food & Brewery › gcfb.net Turtle Anarchy Brewing Company › turtleanarchy.com O’Possum’s › opossumspub.com Mayday Brewery › maydaybrewery.com Jubilee Craft Beer Company, LLC › jubileebeer.com Ole Shed Brewing Company › oleshedbrewing.com Calfkiller Brewing Company › calfkillerbeer.com Mantra Artisan Ales › mantrabrewing.com Bearded Iris › beardedirisbrewing.com Southern Grist Brewing Co › southerngristbrewing.com New Heights Brewing Co
5 51 27
40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49
39 33 34 5 3536 37
Fanatic Brewing Company › fanaticbrewing.com Blackhorse Pub & Brewery › theblackhorsepub.net Schulz Bräu Brewing Company › schulzbraubrewing.com Crafty Bastard Brewery › craftybastardbrewery.com Balter Brewing › balterbrewing.com Scruffy City Hall › preservationpub.com Downtown Grill & Brewery › downtownbrewery.com Alliance Brewing Company Saw Works Brewery › sawworksbrewing.com Smoky Mountain Brewery › smoky-mtn-brewery.com
45 44 46 5
50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60
EAST Bluetick Brewery › bluetickbrewery.com Smoky Mountain Brewery (Maryville) › coppercellar.com Blackberry Farm Brewery › blackberryfarm.com/brewery Smoky Mountain Brewery (Pigeon Forge) › coppercellar.com Smoky Mountain Brewery (Gatlinburg) › coppercellar.com Sleepy Owl Brewery › sleepyowlbrewery.com Studio Brew › studiobrew.net Holston River Brewing Company Depot Street Brewing › depotstreetbrewing.com Johnson City Brewing Company › johnsoncitybrewing.com Yee-Haw Brewing Co. › yeehawbrewing.com
TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016 | 21
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Feature
WAVES AND STONE’S ON THE JAMES RIVER Go, Eat, Play & Stay in Richmond, VA | By Annie Tobey Until lately, this city on the James registered only occasional blips on the national radar for its craft beer accomplishments. The signal was amplified, however, when California’s Stone Brewing announced intentions to make Richmond site for its East Coast production facility. With Stone and 16 smaller breweries calling the Richmond region home – and more on the horizon – beer aficionados find lots to love about the river city. When it first opened in 2011, Hardywood Park Craft Brewery made a few waves. Besides kicking off the new wave of craft breweries, its founders helped push through a state bill that allowed breweries to sell their beers on site. Since then, the rapidly growing business has set the scene for entertainment and food trucks at its Ownby Road facilities. Besides its regular line-up – Singel, Pils, Cream Ale and Great Return IPA – Hardywood releases seasonals,
one-offs and barrel-aged beers nearly every week. With a flagship Belgian-style brown named Woodbooger, Strangeways Brewing lives up to its image in its décor and beer line-up, with more than 25 on tap at all times, none playing to purity of style. Many sour, wild and barrel-aged beers make themselves at home here, including year-round Überlin Berliner Weisse and wandering souls such as the O.T.I.S. sour and Beyond the Ouija Tripel Oak Brett. Be sure to explore the back room when you visit to discover what infusions are pouring from its taps. The renewal in Richmond’s historic Scott’s Addition neighborhood has been bolstered by the spirited businesses that are building their nests there. Isley Brewing offers a range of styles, but notable beers include the Choosy Mother peanut butter porter and Drunken Uncle hard root beer.
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Around the corner, Ardent Craft Ales serves up year-rounds (try the distinctive Virginia Commons ale-lager hybrid) and creative seasonals on an attractive urban patio. A Scott’s Addition brewery opening this spring, The Veil Brewing, holds great promise for the future. Brewmaster Matt Tarpey has worked at The Alchemist, Hill Farmstead and Cantillon. Lambic-style beers from Tarpey’s spontaneous-fermentation coolship will take time to finish, but IPAs and other styles will grace the taproom in the meantime. No beer-loving trip to Richmond would be complete without a stop at the West Broad duo from An Bui: Mekong and The Answer Brewpub. Bui’s Vietnamese restaurant, Mekong, helped kickstart the area’s interest in craft beer with its attention to Belgian beers and American craft beers. Bui opened his newer restaurant, The Answer Brewpub, on the same block.
Feature | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
The Answer brews its own beers (the IPAs are especially noteworthy!), but you’ll also find a phenomenal selection of other craft beers on the 56 taps and – not to be missed – flowing from the “Andalls,” An Bui’s creative infusions. Farther afield but worth the hike, Lickinghole Creek Craft Brewery presents unbeatable sunsets, an open-air rural setting, a groundbreaking status as Virginia’s first farm brewery status and creative, high-ABV beers. And then there’s that big new brewery just a stone’s throw away from the James River. The Stone Company Store - Richmond retail and tasting room opened on March 2. Initially serving beers from the West Coast facility, Stone anticipates brewing its first Richmond beers in late April or early May, for summer release. In addition to The Answer, four brewpubs serve up food and brew. Twenty-oneyear-old Legend Brewing offers the city’s best patio view of the skyline. In historic Shockoe Bottom, 7 Hills Brewing serves a range of beers and creative menu items, just across from the downtown canal, floodwall
and canal walk. Extra Billy’s Barbecue serves beer and – you guessed it – barbecue. And Rock Bottom in Short Pump brews their national recipes of food and beers along with some Richmond-only creations. Other area breweries worth visiting include Triple Crossing, Garden Grove, Final Gravity, Midnight, Center of the Universe and Rusty Beaver. Be sure to do some research before your visit, as a halfdozen additional breweries are in the works. WHILE IN RICHMOND Richmond has received accolades as a visitors’ destination by Travel & Leisure, Fodor’s, Condé Nast, Outside magazine and others. Between brewery visits, you can take in music and comedy, museums and theatre, outdoors activities and sensational dining. Highlights include: The Outdoor Scene: The city’s James River Park System includes over 550 acres of shoreline, islands, meadows and forests, with flat trails for easy ambling plus challenging single track for trail running or mountain biking. Water enthusiasts can laze on the
beaches, hop the river boulders or partake of water sports. Dining: Though our independent restaurants have gained national culinary attention, beer-centric restaurants offer a diversity of beers plus fine fare or pub grub. Top recommendations include Capital Ale House, Commercial Tap House, The Cask Café, Brux’l Café, Fat Dragon, Boulevard Burgers & Brews, Mellow Mushroom, Jack Brown’s Burger Joint and Brew Gastropub. Other spirits: Raise your spirits further at Blue Bee Cider, Black Heath Meadery and James River Distillery. Per state law, Blue Bee offers a full taproom experience while Black Heath and James River offer tastes and off-premise sales. Sports: Two professional sports teams pour branded beers alongside plenty of other craft favorites. Cheer for the Richmond Flying Squirrels (double-A affiliate of the San Francisco Giants) while drinking Center of the Universe Chin Music amber ale. Root for the Richmond Kickers (USL PRO soccer) while quaffing their Wild Wolf Kick It Hunny blonde ale.
TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016 | 23
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Women in Beer
THANK YOU NASHVILLE FOR SUPPORTING PINK BOOTS SOCIETY | by Amanda Crisp
e wanted to thank you, our much appreciated media sponsors and supporters, for helping us grow beyond our wildest dreams in 2015. 2015 proved to be a momentous year for the Nashville Pink Boots Society. Collaboration, community and celebrating women in craft beer were the driving forces for our group. From the small group of women who gathered in October of 2014, we can now boast membership for our group to 60 plus. Our first major event of 2015 found Dr. Laura Burns of Tennessee Brew Works, Bailey Spaulding and Sally Cooper of Jackalope Brewing Company, and Karen Laisster of Corsair uniting to brew our first collaboration brew amply named, Unite Pale Ale. This inspired us to do another collaboration brew in the summer called, Wet Hopportunity. Both of these beers together
raised over $1,000 to split between our local lung cancer research non-profit, Stephanie’s Fight, and Pink Boots' National Chapter. Stephanie's Fight honors the memory of one of the Nashville Craft Beer Movement’s founders, Stephanie Weins of Blackstone Brewing Company. In between our big brews, we found the time to partner with Rhizome Productions and the Tennessee Craft Brewers Guild for several festival appearances. This gave us the opportunity to get in front of many people and to do some really amazing small batch brews ranging from a Hibiscus Gose to a Fruitcake Beer! While rubbing elbows with our local Nashvillians will always be our favorite, we did have a somewhat hilarious time taking Audrina Patridge, from NBC’s 1st Look, on a brewery and bar crawl around town. Thankfully fame did not go to our heads and we did finish the year with a women in craft beer and food industry
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collaboration dinner with Charleston’s very own Bad Bitches. Similar to Nashville Pink Boots, they raise scholarship money for women employed in the restaurant industry. We jumped at the chance to work with them for Nashville’s first ever Bad Bitch’s Dinner. Acme Feed and Seed rounded out our year with our inaugural Beer and Brunch Event. Corsair graciously donated spirits barrels to each participating brewery to produce over ten one-of-a-kind beers for the event. Special thanks are in order for our distribution partners for the year: DET Distributing and Bounty Beverage. They went above and beyond in getting our beer to all of the wonderful businesses and breweries who supported us this year. We expect 2016 to bring more brews, more events and more appearances from our group.
BITCHIN’ KITCHENS Here we feature Tennessee eateries that understand that craft beer is important, not only for its artisanal quality, but for the
taste opportunities craft beer brings to the table. When local food is presented alongside local beer, we take notice, and we feel it’s important for the community to do the same. So stuff your napkin firmly into your collar and dig in. You’re in for a TASTY ride!
THE SECOND LINE
MEMPHIS The Second Line in Memphis is owned by renowned Chef Kelly English whose roots are centered in New Orleans, Louisiana. When he speaks about TSL you can hear his passion for the food of his youth. “Nothing takes me back to New Orleans like a roast beef poboy, dressed, and an old school Italian salad. Neither of those are part of what most think about when you eat ‘New Orleans food.’ Truth be told I never had anything blackened until I left New Orleans; that is strictly tourist food; just like we don’t walk around with Mardi Gras beads on all the time. I have always wanted to open a restaurant just like the second line: casual, honest, delicious. and true.” The ingredients at TSL are sourced from friends and neighbors. A great poboy could be found in a restaurant, a bar, a home, or even a grocery store. At TSL, we won't try to put our spin on poboys or seafood plates or any of the food we offer (the downfall of a poboy is when it is gussied up), what we will do is put that same passion into each bite and authentically make every dish that goes out. From cocktails to gulf seafood to zeal for life, this is what everyday New Orleans really is. This is the best bar I grew up in... it is New Orleans, we grew up in bars.
PEPPERFIRE HOT CHICKEN
NASHVILLE When Isaac Beard, founder and owner of Pepperfire Hot Chicken, first tried hot chicken, the experience became an obsession. For a decade prior to opening Pepperfire’s doors, he fueled this addiction with daily visits to local providers and crafting recipes out of his own kitchen. After three years of honing his spice blends, Isaac had finally focused a passion into the now iconic Pepperfire Hot Chicken spice. pepperfirehotchicken.com
BLUE CACTUS CANTINA
MURFREESBORO Blue Cactus Cantina is one of those places that delights you in not only the selection of craft beer at the bar, but its incredible menu of Southwest style cantina food. The Cajun fondue with toasted foccacia will blow you away with the first bite (it’s addicting) and the Crab Naan bread is out of this world. ilovebluecactus.com
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Legal
LAW & WORT-DER A very wise brew master recently said to me: “You can’t make beer without lawyers.” I wish that statement were not true, but alas, we are a necessary evil in this business, especially in Tennessee. | By Rachel Shaffer
he beer laws are codified in the Tennessee Code Annotated (TCA) Title 57, Chapter 5. However, this is most certainly NOT the whole story when it comes to beer. Each county in TN has established a Beer Board, each with its own rules and regulations, to govern the manufacture, distribution and sale of beer. For those of you who are restaurants or retail locations only interested in setting up shop in one location, it is important for you to familiarize yourself with the beer rules and regulations for your particular county. However, for breweries and distributors, the story gets more complicated as you will need to make yourself familiar with the beer laws in every county/city you wish to sell your product. Most of the rules and regulations per county can be found online, but I believe the administrative staff that handle and process applications and conduct inspections are an incredible resource. Introduce yourself to these people, ask them questions, and always remember to be polite and respectful. They can be your greatest asset or worst enemy in this business, and as they have the power to make or break your business, it is advised not to piss them off! As Nashville has become the hottest city in the South, many who wish to enter the beer business are most likely going to either set up primary operations or eventually
distribute in Davidson County. The remainder of this article will focus on some of the Metro Davidson county Beer Rules and Regulations that are “less than popular” and some strategies for how to deal with scenarios that may arise. 1. CHANGE IN OWNERSHIP (7.08.060) This particular Section of the Rules and Regulations is perfect to illustrate the point that it is just as important to know what the beer rules say as what they don’t say. This particular Section is entitled “Application, renewal and change in management”. The Section discusses the $250 nonrefundable application fee (which, might I add, is better to pay in exact change cash than to process via credit card, trust me you will be in and out of the beer board office much faster) and the tax due every year by January 1st. No where in this section does it discuss change in management, however if more than 50% of the ownership of a business is sold to a third party or changes hands internally, the beer permit is no longer valid. This becomes frustrating when partners of a business choose to sell their interests to one remaining partner and leave the business. While to the public nothing has likely changed, this action triggers several legal consequences for the “new” business.
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For most businesses, simply being aware of this requirement and being sure to present a new application to the beer board within days of the ownership change will allow the applicant to secure a temporary permit for the interim period between submitting the application and the next beer board meeting. Having the application and required documents prepared along with any buy/sell agreement should be standard practice for any business dealing with beer. 2. CONSTRUCTION Currently in Nashville, all one needs to do is go outside and turn in a circle to notice the extreme amount of building going on in the city. For hospitality establishments, it is a great time to consider expanding operations by adding square footage or outside seating as Nashville begins to establish itself as a culinary city. However, this is another scenario where it is important to understand what the beer laws are not saying. Chapter 7.08.080 states that the specific address or description of the premises where the beer is to be sold shall be stated on the face of each permit (emphasis added). That means if you are going to change the footprint of your business by adding square footage in any way, you will have to re-apply for your beer permit. The most common change I see is adding outdoor seating a year or two
Legal | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
after a business has been operating. Beer is only allowed to be sold and consumed in permitted areas, that means if you add something new, that area is “contaminated” until a permit is issued to include that area. In order to side step the scenario of having to tell your patrons that your patio is open but you can’t drink beer on it yet, be sure to prepare the application and required documents while construction is underway and submit everything a few weeks out from completion and submittal of final inspections. 3. 100 FOOT RULE This may be the most frustrating of all the Rules & Regulations. Chapter 7.08.090 states that a beer permit may not be issued to an established located within 100 feet of a church, school or its playground, park, nursery, or a dwelling of one or two families. Be sure to read the definition of “school” above this Chapter, as it is much broader than most legal definitions of schools. The 100 feet is measured from closest point to closest point in a linear fashion. The rub with all of this is that in order to determine whether you are in violation of this rule, you must submit your permit application to the Beer Board and schedule an inspection, which means you are most likely weeks away from opening for business. If it is determined you are in violation based on your inspection, you will be required to request a resolution from the Metro Council in order to sell beer on your premises. The procedure for Council Resolution requires you to submit your liquor license to the beer board first. But wait, what if you are not
intending on selling any alcohol over 5% on your premises, what do you do then? Unfortunately, you are going to have to apply for a liquor license in order to also sell beer. This could effectively change the entire nature of the business you plan to operate as well as delay your opening date by several months. I strongly recommend being extremely careful on choosing your location for your business. As you are negotiating your lease, it is also recommended that you include a provision that makes the lease contingent upon securing beer and liquor licenses. Should you be unable to do so, you will be able to void your lease. If you have already secured your liquor license through the TABC and submitted it to the Beer Board with your formal request (in writing) for a Metro Council Resolution, it is now time to prepare for that meeting. The Metro Council meets the first and third Tuesdays of every month, and the wonderful clerks will help secure you a council date and put you in touch with the council member in your district. I always advise clients to establish a relationship with their Metro Council member early on should they need to go through this process. The Council Member will need to support the resolution before the Council, so their involvement is imperative. Next, you will be required to pay a small fee to publish notice of the resolution in the Nashville Ledger as well as post a sign alerting the public of the resolution on the outside of your premises. Finally, you will be required to send written notice (provided by the Clerk) to every owner of one or two family dwellings within 600 feet of your location. The Clerk will provide you a link to a website
that will allow you to input your location address and generate a list of all property owners. You can then either prepare the envelopes and mail them yourself or hire a company to do that for you. At the Council meeting you will be required to appear, I recommend bringing along members of the community that support your business. If there is no one opposing your resolution, it should be granted. However, if there is opposition the Council will hear discussion and may or may not grant the resolution. Some council members find it helpful to host a community meeting prior to the Council meeting to have a discussion with the community about your plans. This will allow you to be prepared if there is going to be any opposition and to prepare arguments and support to counter it. Note: until your resolution passes you may have to take extra measures before the Council will approve your resolution. In some extreme scenarios, I have seen this process take almost a year to secure a beer permit. If your resolution passes, you will then be put back on the Beer Board meeting schedule and your application should be approved so long as you have all the required documents submitted on time. While many of the beer laws and rules and regulations can be extremely frustrating, awareness and planning should allow you to sidestep any issues. I cannot stress enough that the administrative staff at the Metro Beer Board are a fantastic resource and they will help you if you ask them nicely. Indeed, most of my “insider” knowledge has come from talking extensively with the staff.
TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016 | 27
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Legal
Find us in Nashville.
I24 Exit 60 - Across from Freeland Chevrolet
Welcome to Nashville. WE TAILGATE HERE . @TailgateBeer
Visit our brewery, located at 7300 Charlotte Pike in Nashville!
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Home Brew | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
NASHVILLE’S PREMIERE BARTENDING AND EVENT SERVICE
(615) 710-7170 FIND US ON FACEBOOK: TENNESSEE TWISTED COCKTAILS ON THE WEB: TNTWISTED.COM TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016 | 29
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Social Drink
TENN SOUTH DISTILLERY | By Chris Chamberlain
If you were to examine the small south-central Tennessee towns of Lynchburg and Lynnville on Google Maps satellite view, they’d look pretty similar. Both actually have Highway 129 running through their quaint downtown districts, and it’s only about an hour drive between the two towns on the Cornersville Highway. Cozy soda shops and souvenir emporiums line the paths along the two town squares, and tourists amble along the sidewalks window shopping or stopping for a tasty burger.
f you were to zoom out a bit on your Google Map, you’d see both Lynchburg and Lynnville have a distillery near their downtown districts, the former being the famous Jack Daniels distillery and the latter representing the upstart Tenn South Distillery. At Jack, visitors experience the museum and gift shop as well as a professional tour of part of the distillery and a small bottling line. Two more clicks on the “minus” sign in Google Map’s scale will reveal that the true heart of the Jack Daniel’s operation is actually a couple miles away from the Visitor Center in a massive complex with huge manufacturing and packaging facilities and more than large 40 rickhouses aging thousands of barrels of
Tennessee whiskey before it ships all over the world. Over in Lynnville, Tenn South also has a small building that housing the distillery operation, barrel storage, tasting room and gift shop...and that’s it. But within those four walls, brothers-in-law Blair Butler and Clayton Cutler are creating some remarkable products using some techniques that are so innovative that the industry isn’t quite sure how to handle them yet. In 2011, Butler and Cutler acquired 28 acres on the outskirts of Lynnville to create their dream distillery. The next two years were spent constructing the facility, purchasing a custom-made 500-gallon pot still from Vendome in Kentucky plus a 6
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plate distilling tower and learning how to use their new equipment. Not wanting to outsource any part of their production Tenn South was determined to distill every drop that they sold rather than purchasing distillate for release under their label. Unfortunately, you can’t just distill aged whiskey, so that means that distilleries traditionally have to release clear products like moonshine, gin, vodka or white corn whiskey while they wait for their products to age in oaky repose in barrels. Tenn South’s first commercial release was their All-Purpose Moonshine in 2013. The sour mash sugar shine was well-received and was quickly followed by Blackberry, Apple Pie and Peach Pie moonshine flavors, a 100%
Social Drink | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
corn (and thus gluten-free) Black Horse Vodka and a very intriguing Abernathy Gin. Butler is responsible for the recipe for the Abernathy Gin, although Cutler is the head distiller of the operation. Together they have crafted a gin which emphasizes the citrus characteristics of the spirit as opposed to the typical juniper-heavy aromas that dominate most gins, While there are certainly notes of juniper, Abernathy is made with a special blend of nine botanicals including juniper, coriander, cassia, citrus peels and pecans that contribute citrus and floral essences. Even more spectacular is a Barrel Reserve version of Abernathy Gin that spends 90 days in oak to acquire a lovely softness of mouthfeel and rounder flavor characteristics. At only $3 more per bottle than the regular Abernathy, it’s an upgrade worth paying for. Of course, here in Tennessee we judge distilleries by their whiskeys, and Tenn South is happy to play in that game. Their most novel whiskey product may well be Old King Corn Whiskey, their tribute to the king of grains. This spirit is made from 100% Giles County white corn and exhibits an almost fruity character thanks to the sugars in the corn. Without the spicy notes of rye that are present in most blended whiskeys, Old King is a true representation of what corn contributes to a whiskey and why America chooses that grain as the basis of our favorite brown liquors. Tenn South knew that they wanted to make a notable example of Tennessee
Whiskey, and their contribution to the canon is Clayton James, named after the first names of both the founders of the distillery. The mash bill of Clayton James Tennessee Whiskey is about ¾ corn with the balance of the grains split between malted barley and wheat, so again there is none of the spiciness of rye in the final product. Because they make all the cuts of heads and tails by hand through the course of the distilling process, Tenn South whiskeys don’t have the expected corn burn in their blends because they make the conscious decision to only use a small percentage of their distilling runs after they separate out the portions that are heavier in fusil oils and cogeners. After distilling, Clayton James is fed through totes filled with chips of maple charcoal using an ingenious gravity-fed process. Because of their meticulous attention to separating the hearts for the heads and tails, this use of the Lincoln County Process of filtering through charcoal doesn’t need to leech the off flavors from the distillate, but rather contributes a lovely sweet smokiness to the final product. The filtered whiskey is then aged in a combination of new charred 15, 25 and 53-gallon oak barrels for at least two years to qualify as Tennessee Whiskey. Tenn South stores their barrels in shipping containers on the property to allow for the change in temperature to encourage the distillate to draw the essence of vanilla and caramel from the oak and the
char of the inside of the barrels. They are also experimenting with some innovative straight-sided barrels that are made by a neighbor down the road who is a professional woodworker instead of a cooper. Not only can these barrel be made much more cheaply than those that come fro custom cooperages, but they also have the advantage that they can be stored vertically in the storage containers to maximize the usage of space. This innovation could really be a game-changer for Tenn South. If you’d like to visit the distillery, it’s just about an hour south of Nashville down Interstate 65, and they offer facility tours and tastings on Monday through Saturday from 9 AM to about 5 PM, and sometimes later if there are still folks wanting to tour. The gift shop also sells bottles of all Tenn South’s products as well as mixers, glassware and other souvenirs. If you’re lucky, Clayton Cutler will be there to take you through the tour and patiently answer any questions you might have about the entire distilling process. Take advantage of his knowledge and good nature for a truly memorable experience. Tenn South Distillery 1800 Abernathy Rd. Lynnville, TN 38472 (931) 527-0027 www.tennsouthdistillery.com
TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016 | 31
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Social Drink
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32 | TN CRAFT BEER MAGAZINE | SPRING 2016
THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Feature
LOUISVILLE, KY: SMALL CITY, BIG LOVE FOR CRAFT BEER. | By Veronica de la Cruz-Gibbs
s we drove further and further up north away from a rainy morning in Nashville, we discovered sunny skies and 67 degree warm weather in Louisville. Things were looking promising for our plans that lay ahead. Kicking off our beer run weekend was the Third Annual Tailspin Ale Fest Winter Warmer. Now picture this: Snow, rain, slushy puddles, freezing winds, soaked shoes and beer so cold you could hardly hold your souvenir glass in your frozen, trembling hands. That was 2015’s Tailspin Ale Fest, a far cry from this year’s experience. So relieved was I after obsessively tracking the weather on my app for 2 weeks, crossing my fingers each time, just in case, in hopes of sunny skies. February 20th turned out to be a glorious day for all at Bowman Field, one of the longest continuously operating general aviation airports in the U.S. (the aviation geek in me was giddy as heck, to say the least). Held in the Louisville Executive Aviation hangar, about 50 breweries showed up to showcase their beer ranging from lower gravity beers to Belgians, Double IPAs, Imperial Stouts, barrel aged, and limited release brews. Many of Kentucky’s breweries were in attendance, including three new ones to the scene: Monnik Beer Co. - Noel with ginger and lavender really
captured the essence of its ingredients; 3rd Turn Brewing- the Cucumber Saison was light and refreshing for this spring-like day; Akasha Brewing- Knaves and Staves in Bourdeaux barrels blew me away with its flavorful dark Belgian candi sugar; and Goodwood Brewing- the Louisville Lager was a nice contrast to the other heavy hitters on tap. Fan favorites included 3 Floyds Zombie Dust, Bell’s Hopslam, Rhinegeist Ink Russian Imperial Stout, Moody Tongue
SPEED ART MUSEUM EXHIBIT
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Carmelized Churro Baltic Porter, Great Lakes Barrel Aged Black Out Stout 2015, Cumberland Brewing Belgian Quad and a personal favorite, the Avery DuganA IPA, to name a few. Aside from the beer, the main attraction of the evening, bands Hot Brown Smackdown and Hot Iron Skillet played classic tunes as well as newer popular music to please the masses. Cornhole boards were set up for the competition enthusiasts and
Feature | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
CHEF AND OWNER OF BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY, BOBBY BENJAMIN
a photo booth with props was a big hit. A great selection of food trucks were also in attendance to help you soak up that beer so you can drink some more. Airplanes flew overhead, a vintage airplane was on display and a couple of 1940s costumed women walked around for photo ops. VIP tickets were also sold, which included early entrance beginning an hour before the main event, a food voucher for any food truck, a one year subscription to Draft magazine, a 2016 souvenir Tin Man mug and a swag bag to hold all of your cool new loot. And, all attendees received a commemorative Tailspin Ale Fest 64 oz. glass growler courtesy of the Liquor Barn. Not only is this a well organized event supporting the craft beer industry, but also a fundraising event for the Dare to Care Food Bank, a local nonprofit agency with a mission to lead the community to feed the hungry and conquer the cycle of need. A whopping $12,390 was raised this year! Cheers to that! Quickly becoming one the “must attend” beer festivals in the southeast, plan ahead for next year and get your tickets early before they sell out. In Louisville, not only can you find breweries with great beer, but also bars that carry such a diverse and sought after lineup of brews. From Molly Mallone’s and Flanagan’s Ale House, two well known Irish bars especially during their popular St. Paddy’s day parade, to up and coming restaurants such as Royal’s Hot Chicken and Butchertown Grocery, you can find solid choices in craft beer ranging from a Founders Porter and Evil Twin Hipster Ale to a Goose Island Bourbon County Barleywine and Ommegang Three Philosophers and everything in between. A staple in the community is the Holy Grale, a small Unitarian Church in the heart of the Original Highlands neighborhood converted to a bar and restaurant with a thoughtful bottle list as well as 26 rotating taps pouring delectable brews from all over the world. Here you can
find breweries with semi-impossible unpronounceable names from countries far and wide: Belgium, France, The Netherlands, New Zealand and Denmark and many other offerings from here in the U.S. Keeping the beer selection in mind, this is the kind of intimate place you want to visit with your significant other or small group of friends to enjoy a few pints and share some food. Menu items include a cheese and charcuterie board with chicken liver mousse and Rogue smoked bleu cheese; fresh baked pretzel bread with spicy beer cheese; Fritjes, handcut, double-fried potato chips with a choice of creative sauces. I cannot get enough of that curry ketchup! The Mussels, Fritjes Poutine, wings and farm burger can all be shared as well as they are nicely portioned. The Holy Grale is truly a unique and pleasurable experience for the body, mind and soul. You are in an old church after all! With that said, do not fail to take a moment to notice the intricate wood work of the bar areas, structure of the building and stained glass windows. If you’re looking for a more casual, any time of day grub spot, pop into Royal’s Hot Chicken. I know, I know, how much more hot chicken can Tennesseans take? A lot more! Trust me. Sure, you can have your traditional tenders, quarter and half bird and even tofu in the hot chicken style with heat levels ranging from mild to “Gonzo,” but what about trying them in a sandwich with pimento cheese and cucumber salad or black eyed peas on the side, or a over a big bowl of Hot Bacon Dressed Kale Salad, or how about a plate of loaded potato wedges with buttermilk chicken gravy, fried chicken skin, pickled red onions and cheese? Am I making your mouth water yet? And to complement the food menu is a bountiful draft list including local favorites and the best of the best from around the country. Also, worth noting: they make bourbon shakes made with Heaven Hill Old Style Kentucky Bourbon. You’re welcome.
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THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Feature
Known for their brandy production is the Copper & Kings Distillery in the Butchertown neighborhood. The distillery uses a traditional copper pot-distillation to produce natural, pure pot-still American brandies. According to their website, they adopt a “low & slow” distillation philosophy – “a relatively low distillation temperature, for a longer, slower distillation, maximum copper contact, to express concentrated flavors, aromas, and smoothness. Philosophically the art of brandy distillation revolves around the concept of retention and concentration. The distiller is attempting to retain the nuance found in the base wine. You “stroke” brandy in to shape.” With that much love and attention put into their process, you better bet this craft will produce a high quality product. Copper & Kings is a part of an extensive partnership program with American Craft Brewers where they swap barrels to age both brandy and beer respectively. If you enjoy barrel aged beers, lookout for Lock, Stock & Smoking Barrels, a barrel-aged beer fest they host in September. Distillery tours are held Monday-Thursday by appointment, Friday: 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. for $12 and includes a
tour of the distillery, the grounds and the sky deck tour with rooftop tasting along with a signature Copper & Kings glass to take home. So now you’ve imbibed on craft beer and brandy and you’re looking for a brunch spot to start your Sunday off right? Butchertown Grocery offers American and French cuisine presented in a sleek and modern style. But, take one bite and it will fill you with that cozy familiarity of southern comfort. Coffee lovers can order a French press filled with local coffee from Quills. Those ready to take on the hair of the dog can order from a diverse selection of beer, wine and cocktails. Each table receives a nice little surprise of a homemade cinnamon roll with cream cheese icing. If you are looking for eggs and bacon with a twist, the Eggs Benedict takes a fluffy biscuit topped with tender pork belly, braised greens, and poached eggs covered in hollandaise sauce that seeps into every scrumptious layer. Expect to see menu items such as Banana Bread French Toast, Vegetable Quiche, and Pearl Water Mussels along with traditional brunch items such as burgers, grilled cheese, and steak and eggs. Do not underestimate the tried-and-true biscuits and gravy– three
WHISKEY BARRELS AT COPPER & KING
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biscuits smothered in peppery sausage gravy will have you moaning with pleasure after just a bite. Sides of eggs, bacon, cheesy grits and fruit are options as well. All portions are of shareable sizes, so if it’s hard to choose one thing off the menu, choose a few and share! Butchertown Grocery also offers a full dining and late night food and drink menu. Reservations are recommended. If you’re looking to mix in some fun activities during your stay in Louisville, check out these upcoming events: Speed Art Museum exhibitions (ongoing) Kentucky Museum of Art & Craft (currently under renovations, re-opening in Spring 2016) Louisville Cardinals baseball at Jim Patterson Stadium February-May Kentucky Shakespeare Festival in Central Park June 1-August 7
Homebrew | THE WANDERLUST ISSUE
BRIARSCRATCH DELIVERS | By Art Whitaker
ff a small country road just outside of Gallatin, a young homebrewer dreamed of opening his own brewery. Several years later in the small community of Cottontown, Briarscratch Brewing was born. On a cold rainy day last February, owner and brewer Brad Singleton launched his brewery in Gallatin with an event “Tap the Town”. Several downtown restaurants participated each creating special dishes to serve with one of Briarscratch’s brews. One year later “Tap the Town 2 “ has taken place, Brad and his partner Spencer Wakefield has opened Prince Street Pizza and Pub in Gallatin and the Gallatin Chamber of Commerce awarded Brad its Entrepreneur of the Year for his efforts of working with local legislation to make zoning work for his small brewery, participating in local events and philanthropies, and working to launch
a new business all its own. Briarscratch released a farmhouse ale on its first anniversary fermented with wild yeast from his farm and had their first bottle release, a collaboration with Broadway Liquors in Gallatin. Broadway supplied a barrel that was used for Buffalo Trace’s Eagle Rare 10 year bourbon and Brad brewed a honey rye porter that was bottled and released at Broadway. Briarscratch Brewery is the first brewery in Sumner County and they self-distribute throughout the county. Briarscratch does not have a taproom at the brewery, but you can find all of Briarscratch’s current offerings at Prince Street Pizza and Pub including other beers and ciders produced from breweries in Tennessee. Its worth your time to make a trip to the county to find one of the brewery’s tasty brews made with delicious spring water from his farm.
Below is the recipe for his staple, Cottontown Brown, an easy drinking brown ale. COTTONTOWN BROWN (5 GALLONS) 3.5 lbs Weyermann munich type 1 3 lbs Rahr Pale Malt 0.8 lbs Weyermann Carabohemian 0.4 lbs Golden Naked Oats 0.3 lbs Carafa 1 Mash at 157*F for 60 minutes
0.3 oz Magnum (12.7% AA) 12 IBU @60 0.6 oz Willamette (5% AA) 5 IBU @15 minutes Irish Moss @ 15 minutes Cool to 66*F, aerate wort. US-05 safale. Ferment at 66*F for 12 days. Cold crash. OG: 1.041 FG: 1.011 Abv 4%
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THE WANDERLUST ISSUE | Last Call
OH, SO VERY WISE Welcome to Wiseacre where the beer is delicious, lauded and drinkable, the can reigns supreme, and pretention is the only thing that isn’t welcome. | By Katie Faulkner
rother-owners Davin and Kellan Boartosch never imagined that their brewery-brainchild would grow by such enormous leaps and bounds. They simply pursued a passion they have shared since a high school trip to the Sam Adams Brewery. That pursuit which included Davin’s extensive brew-master training coupled with Kellan’s modern business sense resulted in the first taproom to grace Memphis. One that feels more like a friend’s sun soaked back porch pumping throwback tunes than a bar – and the ever growing customer count can confirm that’s a good thing. Davin attended brewery school in Germany, and Chicago before working with several trailblazers of the “craft” beer scene. However, despite his ample technical training, Davin managed to avoid contracting any ill-conceived notions of grandeur or artistry. When asked for his perspective on the current craft beer scene, he quips, “Drop the word ‘craft.’” Davin earnestly admonishes the idea that craft beer brewers spend a great deal of time studying flavors or architecting complexities and dimensions within their brews. Instead he says it’s simple. “When I’m making a beer, I just think, ‘Would I drink this?’ and then I hope other people will drink it too.” “Really, I’d say 3% of a brew master’s time is thinking up cool flavors, and the other 97% is cleaning out nasty tanks,” Davin
laughs. But honestly, from all observations, he loves what he does. As we talk he’s sipping one of his own creations while occasionally glancing around the taproom full of people and children (yes children), smiling. “We want this to be a kid friendly place. We’re very family oriented.” They’re also very business savvy. The unique style of their taproom, labeling, and brand - which focuses on nostalgically groovy designs and truly delicious brews - has set them apart in consumers’ hearts. While anyone from Elton John to Florence and the Machine can be heard through the speakers of the taproom, their company’s art is crafted with equal passion – friend Rachel Briggs was sweet-talked into reluctantly designing the funkadelic labels for all of the equally artistic beers. These iconic graphics have become another fan favorite, and make Wiseacre products easily recognizable at distribution sites. In addition to their retro branding the team has made other decisions that help them stand out in the crowd. For Wiseacre, in the ‘rock, paper, scissors’ of packaging, can crushes bottle. Why? It ships better, doesn’t allow as much oxygen to touch the beer – therefore maintaining freshness longer, allows no light through (which no glass container can claim, no matter what color), and very simply put just makes more sense. “Think of it like a tiny keg,” Davin smiles.
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They continue to think out of the bottle on everything from setting to events. At their Broad Avenue brewery in Memphis, the tables are long “family style” mesas facing each other. Very deliberate choices to not install televisions and to leave the flow of the room open lends to the attainment of one of the hottest social scenes in the city. In fact, during their first year of business Wiseacre was voted “Best Bar” in local reader’s choice awards – in spite of the fact that they aren’t technically a bar. Food trucks provide creative, highly stylized grub for patrons on a rotating schedule, and events from karaoke dinners, to film screenings, to their largest annual event – the “Taste the Rarity” festival – which draws in breweries from all over the Southeastern region, keep the calendar full. And the product? Let’s not beat around the bush – even their self proclaimed “hoppiest” beer doesn’t kick your teeth out. Everything on the menu had a delightfully well rounded, whistle-wetting finish. “I don’t want to make something so sweet that you can’t finish a pint of it. And on the flip side, I don’t want to make you feel like your tongue is going to dry up and fall out either,” Davin explains. When you go, you must try the “Tiny Bomb” Dubbed “one of the hundred best beers in the world,” or my personal favorite – a coffee milk stout that James Brown would be proud of – “Gotta Get Up to Get Down.”
Winner of a Gold Medal at the 2016 International East Meets West Wine Challenge
Published on May 17, 2016