Craft Beer AUTU MN ISS UE 17
T E N N E S S E E
THE POLITICS OF DRINKING with Joe Nolan
BORN IN A GARAGE
BREWED IN KENTUCKY
LIFTING ONE TO LIFE IN THE MUSIC CITY Braxton Brewing Company was born out of a garage on Braxton Drive in Union, Kentucky. It’s there where a passion was born, sparked and ignited. The creativity and craft of brewing became a entrepreneurial obsession and now we thrive to create the ultimate experience by celebrating the life, family and communities that build our history. Dreams are born and fermented at Braxton Brewing Company. Let’s celebrate and Lift One To Life!
Braxton Brewing Company is located in Covington, Kentucky
The brewery began with only 100 barrels of fermentation capacity in 2015 and is now home 1,140 barrels of capacity
Producing approximately 15,000 barrels in 2017
Award-winning brewing team
Our innovation facility, Braxton Labs, is located in Newport, Kentucky
Named as one of the Top 33 new breweries in 2015 by BeerAdvocate
BRAXTON BREWING COMPANY
Born in a garage. Brewed at 27 W. 7th St., Covington, KY 41011
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
A career so good you can taste it
MTSUâ€™s new Fermentation Science degree program, the first of its kind in Tennessee, educates students in the science and art of fermenting foods and beverages. Students can prepare for careers in quality analysis and control, food microbiology, dairy and cereal sciences, brewing and distillation, research and development, or federal government positions, or continue on to graduate school.
Learn more at mtsu.edu/fermentation 4
0817-4553 / Middle Tennessee State University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, or disability. See our full policy at www.mtsu.edu/titleix.
| lifestyles in beer 47 40
36 feature politics of drinking
brewery proďŹ les east nashville beer works
last days of autumn
mill creek brewing
industry news blackberry farm brings beer to the masses quality beer at fat bottom
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
| politics of drinking
Photo Credit: Shelley Justiss | Location Shot: The Eagleâ€™s Nest Tavern
18 Politics of Drinking
| Written By: Joe Nolan
The Mud Tavern Community developed around the crossroads of the Elm Hill and McGavock Turnpikes. The name derives from the mud and log inn at the crossroads where early 19th century travelers found rest and refreshment. Mud Tavern later became a lively rural community, with a railway stop, schools, post oďŹƒce, and general store, which thrived until overtaken by 20th century commercial development.
WILDWOOD FLOWER B
HONEY BLONDE ALE
E HONEY B LO
HONEY BLONDE ALE
ALE BREWED WITH WILDFLOWER ____ & ____ SOURWOOD HONEYS
& B OTT
LED IN N
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
beer 101 hop to it
health & ďŹ tness 20 recipes oysters and ale
food review tennessee brew works deliaâ€™s shakerag at the sewanee inn
24 25 25
cigar room 30 social drink grinders switch winery
home brew 45 back page 48
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
tcb magazine staff publisher Craig Disque editor in chief Didi Rainey senior editor Don Else managing editor Julie Holt sales and marketing Jamie Lynn Brown email@example.com social media marketer Angelina Lai art director and layout designer Terri Brown creative designer Bryan Adams web developer Greg Gall contributors Chris Chamberlain, Veronica de la Cruz-Gibbs, Tony Giannasi, Shane Gibbs, Justin Harris, Kendall Joseph, Shawn Klumpjan, Rob Shomaker, Joe Scutella, Christian Spears, Nancy Vienneau, Art Whitaker, Joe Nolan, Gini David, Clyde Willis photographers Nick Baumgartner, Aaron Grobengieser, Brandon Lunday, Bill Seymour, Sean Von Tagen FIND US ONLINE tncraftbeermag.com facebook.com/TNCBG @tncraftbeermag #TNbeer #tnbeer
Get 4 issues delivered for $25. Visit TnCraftBeerMag. com/subscribe ÂŠ2016 Tennessee Craft Beer Magazine must give permission for any material contained herein to be reproduced in any manner. Any advertisements published in Tennessee Craft Beer Magazine do not constitute an endorsement of the advertisers services or products. Tennessee Craft Beer Magazine is published quarterly by distinguished individuals that have a fervent and lifelong thirst for craft beer. We challenge you to doubt our resolve.
Parties interested in advertising should email firstname.lastname@example.org or call 256.226.5615. General Inquiries please contact Didi Rainey, email@example.com Cover photo by Richtergarten: Can design, cover art direction, design and CG image by Richtergarten Creative. 10
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
publisher’s draft Celebrate autumn with craft beer.
Craft beer is — and always has been — a labor of love, rooted in a desire to build community around a simple comfort. Beer and food are the language of our stories and our people. Brewers from time immortal have brought not only the fruits of their harvests, but the traditions of past generations to their own versions of bright, lively IPAs; rich, decadent stouts; and crisp, tart sours. Whether the occasion is joyful or somber, there is a beer for every season. Our Autumn issue celebrates the endless dedication of brewers who make the recipes that get us through our own trials, and the communities that support and sustain their brewery neighbors. Tennessee craft beer is a rich, diverse landscape that is only growing and welcoming more neighbors into the fold. Our feature story details a long-awaited brewery destination that is sure to put Tennessee craft beer on the national map. Steel Barrel Brewery at Hop Springs’ approaches beer from the ground, up — marrying the agriculture to the delicious ﬁnished project. CEO Mark Jones and brewmaster Derrick Morse promise an approachable style of beer in a uniquely Tennessee setting, along with incredible resort-style amenities and ﬁrst class educational opportunities. We also spent some quality time (over a few pints, of course) with the owners of many of Tennessee’s incredible breweries (Mill Creek, East Nashville Beer Works, Last Days of Autumn, just to name a few) and one thing seemed to inspire each brewer to brew their best: bringing people together over their own stories in the universal language of beer. We even found out that Andrew Jackson may have logged some hours building community over beer in his local tavern back in the day. His reputation as a brawler, paired with the day drinking habits of his contemporaries collided in spectacular fashion, as reported in our cover story, The Politics of Drinking. We’re also thrilled to welcome a new member to the team. Mark Brewer is the author and illustrator of Brewology, An Illustrated Dictionary for Beer Lovers, and his illustrations have appeared in Wall Street Journal, New York Times, Wine & Spirits Magazine and Newsweek. Now his illustrations and beer review column will be our back page feature. We know you’ll love his beer-inspired take on art. Grab a bottle, put up your feet and join our community of storytellers and beer lovers. Cheers,
Disquee, Pu ubbllisher Craig Disque, Publisher
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
| steel barrel
Steel Barrel’s brewery and 500-seat taproom will feature a wraparound porch for enjoying music, views and brews.
32 Steel Barrel
| Written By: Gini David
Steel Barrel Brewery at Hop Springs expects to have its soft opening in February 2018, with a grand opening in May. And grand it will be – 83 acres dedicated to an agritourism destination unlike anything Tennessee – and perhaps the South – has ever seen.
Nashville Festbier is a traditional MĂ¤rzen style amber lager that was featured at the first Oktoberfest in 1810. MĂ¤rzen (German for the month of March) biers were traditionally brewed in the spring and lagered (stored) during the summer months. Before the advent of refrigeration, German brewers would dig cellars and fill them with ice from nearby lakes and rivers. The ice would keep the beer cool during the summer months. PROST!
Festbier NEW SEASONAL
Visit us online at www.nashvillebrewing.com NashvilleBrew
In Stores and on Draft Everywhere in Nashville!
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
beer 101 | hop to it |
llow me to preface this article by saying that I personally am a huge hop-head, the hoppier and skunkier the beer, the better. I enjoy pretty much all beer, but I certainly gravitate toward the hoppy side of things, speciﬁcally West Coast IPAs. Working in the beer industry, I’ve noticed a large number of people that will only drink speciﬁc IPAs or do not drink any because they do not like the bitter taste that hops can create. I intend to educate you on some of the more commonly used hops in your favorite beers so that you can begin to identify them yourselves and maybe expand your variety and excite your palate. The varieties of hops are ever-growing and for me to list them all, I would have to write a book and not an article; instead I have chosen a few of the most commonly used and well-known hops.Those are Cascade, Centennial, Citra, Galaxy, Hallertauer and Mosaic. Before getting into the styles, let me tell you why hops are used in the ﬁrst place. Humulus Lupulus, or hops, are ﬂowering plants which are used in the brewing process. They prevent spoilage due to wild bacteria, help with head retention and act as a natural ﬁlter for your beer. They also give you the plethora of ﬂavors that you can experience from each of the different styles of beer. Now, on to the hops.
16 1 6
CASCADE: The cascade hop is named after the Cascade mountain range that runs through Washington, Oregon and British Columbia. It was ﬁrst utilized by New Albion Brewing Company back in 1976 in its American Pale Ale. The distinct medium strength aroma gives oﬀ characteristics of a ﬂowery, spicy, grapefruit ﬂavor. It is most commonly used in hopped-up west coast brews. The Sierra Nevada Pale Ale is a perfect example of this. Others include Deschutes Brewery’s Mirror Pond Pale Ale and Anchor Brewing’s Liberty Ale.
CENTENNIAL: The centennial hop, also referred to as “Super Cascade” has been on the market since 1990 and has a pleasant ﬂoral aroma with less grapefruit or citrus notes than the cascade hop. Obviously, it is utilized for bittering, but is also widely used for dry hopping or late additions when brewing beer. The centennial hop is highlighted in beers such as Bell’s Two Hearted Ale, Deschutes Brewery’s Green Lakes Organic Ale, Highland Brewing’s IPA and East Nashville Beer Works’ East Bank Citra IPA. CITRA: Citra hops were created in 2007 for aroma and ﬂavor. They are known to give oﬀ tropical fruit aromas of citrus and peach. The greatest examples using citra hops would be Three Floyds Zombie Dust and Victory Headwaters. If you happen to get your hands on some Zombie Dust, I
Written By: Shane Gibbs
will gladly give you my mailing address.
GALAXY: Galaxy hops are out of this world, pun intended, but they actually hail from the land down under. Australian brewers began using the Galaxy hop back in 2009, and it quickly gained popularity. They provide a unique aroma of citrus and passionfruit which can be quite intense, but subsides as the beer matures. You may even notice hints of pineapple or tropical fruit. Unlike other hops, you will not notice ﬂoral or piney ﬂavors. You can experience this unique taste in Devil’s Backbone Tasmanian Pale Ale, Clown Shoes’ Galactica, Terrapin’s Recreation Ale and Tallgrass Brewing’s 8-Bit. HALLERTAUER: Hallertauer is a classic German hop most often used in Bavarian-style lagers. It has a distinctive and intense, yet pleasing bitterness. It can be described as a mild hop with ﬂoral and citrus notes. It is utilized in Empire Brewing Company’s Empire Summer Ale, the Hofbrau Munchen and Kona Brewing Company’s Wailua Wheat. MOSAIC: The mosaic hop is one of my absolute favorites. Released in 2012, the aromas given oﬀ from this hop are a cornucopia of goodness. You may pick up scents of blueberry, tangerine, papaya, even an earthy pine. One of the most popular uses of this hop in Tennessee can be found in the Bearded Iris Homestyle. Other great examples are the Founders Brewing Mosaic Promise, Surly Brewing Company’s Todd the Axe Man and Russian River’s Blind Pig. Now that you’ve been introduced to hops, you can research your favorite beers and do some side by side comparisons between the diﬀerent hop proﬁles. After all, craft beer life is all about tasting and trying new things in the beer world.
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
feature | politics of drinking Hopped Up History |
Written By: Joe Nolan
Photo courtesy: www.civicscope.org/nashville-tn/HistoricMudTavern
he Mud Tavern community in Nashville’s Donelson neighborhood boasts its own historical marker along with a legend worthy of the landmark. Honor, history, politics and potent pints of porter all met there in America’s ﬁrst days at a time when drinking and dueling played lead roles in the political pageant of our new democracy.
A SOUND IN THE MORNING On the grounds of Harrison’s Mill in Logan County, KY on the morning of May 30, 1806, the ﬁrst pistol blast silenced the ripples of the nearby Red River. The springtime birds screeched in the trees as a .70 caliber bullet smashed into the chest of Andrew Jackson, splashing a crimson crown as it pulverized linen, tore through ﬂesh, crushed bone and stopped perilously close to the future President of the United States’ racing heart. A mere 24 feet away, 26-year-old Charles Dickinson lowered his smoking pistol, sure he was looking at the stumbling bulk of the 27th man he’d
killed in a duel of honor. But after Jackson stepped and Jackson swayed, he suddenly planted his feet. He brought one hand to his chest and with black smoke pouring from the inside of his coat he straightened his back and raised his pistol at Dickinson. By the rules of dueling, Jackson was entitled to return ﬁre if he was able. He squeezed before the pistol’s hammer fell half way and jammed. Jackson pulled the hammer back again before blasting Dickinson’s chest wide open. Dickinson hit the ground. He would not recover.
EARLIER, NEAR MILL CREEK Two happenings in the early settlement of Tennessee led to the forming of the Historic Mud Tavern Community and earned it its oozy boozy moniker: before 1784, Major John Buchanan built a fortiﬁed home on Mill Creek’s east bank. Buchanan Station is believed to have been the ﬁrst permanent dwelling in the area. The build-
ing withstood attacks during the Chickamauga Wars and became the civic center of the community that developed near the station at the close of the 1700s. There is some evidence that sometime during the 1800s, a tavern opened at what is now the corner of Elm Hill and McGavock Pikes. The watering hole took its name from its own cedar and mud walls along with its stick-built chimney. While there are no records documenting the Mud Tavern’s original owner, some sales documents and court decisions dating 1810 – 1832 suggest that the tavern was owned and operated as a drinking establishment and an inn by a man named Richard Smith. That said, the original Mud Tavern left no ruins and nearly no paper trail, but – like a long night of suds-sipping often does – the Mud Tavern left a lasting legend: Andrew Jackson was said to have been a regular at the stop on his trips between The Hermitage and Nashville. It’s also said that he spent two nights at the tavern preparing for his duel with Charles Dickinson.
A PLAN TO EXECUTE
Red Ale (Smoky Mountain Brewery & Restaurant) register ABVs at 2.77% and 3.08% respectively. America was a pretty pissed place back in Jackson’s day, and there might’ve been less dueling if there had only been enough LaCroix to go around. Our democratic experiment is certainly soaked in suds, but is the Jackson story real or is the Mud Tavern more lush legend than legitimate landmark?
In Tennessee the story of the duel and its result is well known – the whole thing started when Dickinson accused Jackson of cheating on a horse race before also insulting his wife. But the preamble about Jackson’s strategizing retreat at the Mud Tavern is a detail left out of most tellings. Jackson was a notoriously weak marksman – some A MYTH WALKS INTO accounts credit Jackson with more than A BAR 100 duels during his lifetime, but he never killed another man in these ﬁghts for honor, The best evidence that the Mud Tavern was aside from the unfortunate Dickinson. Jacka real place with real history is that the surson reckoned he could steady his nervous rounding community took its name and the aim if he was the man taking the second label has stuck on maps of Davidson Counshot. He was so sure of his strategy that he try all the way through to the 21st century. was prepared to take the ﬁrst bullet when Local historian Mike Slate is a Hermitage it hit – it broke two ribs and remained in resident who was raised in Donelson – he’s Jackson’s chest for the rest of his life. Jackan expert on the Mud Tavern commuson was such a savage for vengeance that nity who was recommended to Tennessee afterwards he vowed that he’d have killed Craft Beer by no less than The Hermitage. Dickinson even if it meant taking the ﬁrst “I happen to subscribe to the view bullet in the brain. One wonders how much that possibly during the time of Andrew of that must have been the beer talking? Jackson there wasn’t a Mud Tavern. I Alcohol and the places that sold put it in the category of folklore. I lean and served it played a very diﬀerent role in to the idea that during Andrew Jackson’s those days than they do now. Some colonial day, Mud Tavern didn’t exist,” says Slate. communities had taverns before they had “The bottom line is I can’t ﬁnd any docuchurches, and these establishments providmentation whatsoever of Jackson at the ed lodging and meals in addition to alcotavern during his lifetime. Now, that just hol. These precursors to the modern motel means that I haven’t found any proof. also served as community meeting places, That doesn’t mean that it wasn’t there.” news gathering centers and even postal In fact, Slate insists that the points where rural colonists could get a picMud Tavern was deﬁnitely a real ture of the world beyond the wilderness. In place that he’s been able to document America’s earliest days these places were all the way back to the late 1860’s. also classless: military oﬃcers, laborers, “For me this means the tavern farmers, merchants and artisans all drank called Mud Tavern was a post-Civil War together, spoke together, schemed and dreamed Illustration credit to TJ Norris @mountaingoatstudios together. The American Revolution overﬂowed from taverns like the one where Jackson looked his death in the face and refused its grim insistence. There’s another factor in the central role that beer played in the colonies, and in the days after the Revolutionary War: a lack of potable water made brewed and distilled beverages the safest drinks around. Colonial-style table beers might have been as weak as 3% ABV. That’s not really that low when you consider drinking it morning to night – contemporary Tennessee craft brews like Mountain Light and Cherokee
event, but there may have been another tavern on the same spot that was known by another name during an earlier era. This legendary tavern may have existed, but maybe not by the name of Mud Tavern.” However, Slate has yet to discover any new evidence of an unknown watering hole. “I’ve searched for other taverns under other names during an earlier time but I haven’t been able to ﬁnd one yet.” What we also found out from Slate was that there was another early American tavern up Elm Hill Pike from Donelson in what is now the Mount Juliet area of Wilson County. The Eagle Tavern might be the place where the secret to this Jacksonian legend is hiding. “Elm Hill Pike was the old road to Lebanon for many years, and it does appear that Eagle Tavern was old enough to have been there during Jackson’s time,” says Slate. “I can say that with quite a bit of conﬁdence even though there’s very little we can actually pin down and document about that era and about that event. The duel happened, but the rest of the story is ultimately speculation. Did Andrew Jackson drink? Sure he did. Did he frequent taverns? You bet. But, Andrew Jackson has supposedly stayed at so darn many places in his life that at a certain point it’s hard to prove which ones or where.” One thing we do know for sure is that taverns and beer were important ingredients in the early alchemy that transformed America from a group of rag tag colonies into an independent democratic nation. It’s also a pretty good bet that Jackson might not have had 100 duels if his better angels had just stuck to the cider.
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
health & wellness Transforming a Beer Industry Professional |
Written By: Clyde Willis
choose salads and grilled items. Occasionally, I choose to step out of the diet when my weakness of tacos and pizza are in play. Nonetheless, I have been able to stay fairly close to my plan. During this phase of the plan, I added weight training to my regimen, and I am loving it!
THE PROGRESS: To date, I am down 30 lbs and down 4 inches on my waist. My strength gains are already showing. I started with very light weights (5 lbs) to make sure that my form for each exercise was correct and safe before adding weight. After conﬁrming my form, I am up to 20 lbs on shoulders, forearms and triceps and 40 lbs on bench, back, biceps and all leg exercises. My energy level and stamina throughout the day stays high, and simple tasks are much easier these days. For example, I rode with a wholesaler rep last week. I had a meeting, and it was such a nice day that I decided to walk 2.2 miles to meet the rep after my meeting. I was not even tired when I got there—awesome!
OUTCOMES: This journey is still somewhat tough at times, but we are pressing onward. Amy is holding strong on her maintenance, and we enjoy two cheat days a month together. We are now shopping for some new clothes, drinking the beers that we love and celebrating each other with a scheduled trip to the beach around Christmas. So far, so good!
s I write this second installment of Transforming a Beer Industry Professional, I am reminded of a few things. One, this is not a sprint. Changing your body is 80% mental and discipline and 20 practice. The key here is the long haul success. Second, changing habits is a tough thing to do, but constant adherence to a routine is the biggest contributor for success. Finally, noticing progress and rewarding yourself on attaining goals is necessary to stay on target. We will track my ﬁtness journey by look-
CONCLUSIONS: ing at discipline, progress and outcomes to form conclusions throughout the process.
THE DISCIPLINE: So far, the discipline of this transformation has proven successful and challenging at the same time. We all know that it is peak beer drinking season. I have had about 25 events during the last 9 weeks, and it has proven diﬃcult to stay on target. Instead of burgers and hot chicken (one of my favorite foods,) I continue to
The saying “all things in moderation” holds true in so many things in life. There are times for a 1,600 calorie meal, but it should be balanced with great choices between the indulgences. There is also time to let loose with a pint or 5 with friends, but it should be accompanied by water, time and a safe plan of travel. Finally, exercise can help your strengthen and heal your body, but diet is what helps balance your body. The two together is where true transformation happens. Until next time, be, eat and drink well.
J O I N T H E C O N V E R S AT I O N
email: firstname.lastname@example.org 21
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
recipe | oysters and ale New England Tastes for the Southern Table |
ashville-based food writer and journalist Erin Byers Murray is not exaggerating when she’s says she’s oyster-obsessed. While living in Boston, she talked her way into an 18-month job on an oyster farm, an experience she details in her memoir with recipes, Shucked. During that time, she befriended Jeremy Sewall, esteemed chef of Boston-area restaurants, Lineage, Eastern Standard and Island Creek Oyster Bar. Together, they wrote the James Beard nominated cookbook, The New England Kitchen. Through vivid words and photographs, it explores the cuisine of region and how Sewall has enlivened the recipes that deﬁne it. Consider: Maple-brined rack of pork, Lentil-Lobster bisque, Sugar Pumpkin Salad, Updated Yankee Pot Roast.
And, of course, oysters. The favored mollusks appear throughout the book in delectable combinations: raw in a spicy mignonette, simmered in a rich creamy stew, baked with leeks, bacon and paprika, and these gems, breaded-and-fried to golden, and bursting with sweet briny taste. Boosted by green tomato relish and a dab of smoked paprika aioli, Sewall’s crispy fried oysters would ﬁnd their way easily onto a Southern plate, and enjoyed with pint. For pairing, try a New England IPA. We found a luscious one crafted by Kirby Garrison, head brewer and co-owner of Monkey Town Brewing Company in Dayton, Tennessee. When Garrison was 14 years
Written By: Nancy Vienneau
old, the Dayton native moved with his family to the North Fork of Long Is land, a place that shares New England sensibilities. It was there that many of his preferences for food and drink were shaped. Now brewing full-time in his hometown, he’s tapped into those tastes. Evolution IPA #17 is his double dry-hopped New England IPA. One of the “haze-craze,” it’s a cloudy, golden brew with silken mouthfeel and imparts notes of pineapple, melon, citrus and pine. The name is a nod to Dayton’s history, which was the home of the Scopes Monkey Trial in 1925 and the number refers to the batch, this one using a combination of Mosaic and El Dorado hops. For Garrison, the art of brewing is ever an evolution. Now we’re curious about the possibilities of batch #18.
FRIED OYSTERS WITH GREEN TOMATO RELISH | From The New England Kitchen by Jeremy Sewall and Erin Byers Murray FRIED OYSTERS serves 8 Double breading the oysters makes them super-crispy, while encasing their creamy succulence. INGREDIENTS • 32 medium to large oysters, carefully shucked, bottom shells reserved • 1-cup all-purpose ﬂour • 8 large eggs, whisked with 4 tablespoons water • 6 cups panko breadcrumbs • 2 cups kosher salt, plus more to taste • 3 cups canola oil • Green Tomato Relish (recipe follows) • ½ cup Smoked Paprika Aioli (recipe follows) PREPARATION - Wash the bottom shells of the oysters, scraping oﬀ any remaining oyster meat. Set aside. - Drain any liquid from the oysters. - Pour the ﬂour into a medium bowl. Divide the eggs and breadcrumbs in half, placing each half into separate bowls. (Once half the oysters are breaded, use the set-aside eggs and breadcrumbs. This technique will cut own on cross-contamination.) - Carefully roll each oyster in the ﬂour so that it is completely covered; shake oﬀ excess. - Dip the oysters into the eggs, then in the breadcrumbs, making sure they are completely coated. Dip the oysters a second time into the eggs, and then coat with breadcrumbs. Cover the oysters with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. (Pack extra breadcrumbs around them to absorb any moisture.) - Just before frying the oysters, in a small bowl, mix the salt and ¼ cup water to create a thick paste and set aside. The paste will be shaped into mounds and used as a pedestal to hold the oysters for presentation. - In a wide heavy-bottom pan, heat the oil over medium heat to 350 degrees. Fry the oysters, a few at a time, until golden brown, turning them halfway through as needed— about 45 seconds per oyster. Transfer to paper towels and sprinkle with salt. - On a large platter, place nickel-sized dollops of the salt paste around the platter,
placing a reserved shell on each dollop. Place one warm oyster in each shell and top with a small amount of aioli and then a little relish. Serve immediately.
GREEN TOMATO RELISH makes 4 cups This makes a bright, tart complement to the oyster’s brininess. It’s a marvelous use for those end-of-the-season green tomatoes, available until the ﬁrst frost. INGREDIENTS • 6 medium green tomatoes • 1 large Spanish onion • 2 red bell peppers • 2 cups white wine vinegar • ¼ teaspoon ground cloves • ½ teaspoon ground ginger • 1-teaspoon celery seeds • 1 (3 inch) cinnamon stick • ½ cup sugar
Keep it New England and pair with Smith and Lentz’s Candy Man IPA, a New England Style IPA made with El-Dorado and Simcoe hops. 6.5 ABV
PREPARATION - Finely chop the tomatoes, onion and peppers. Place in a ﬁne-meshed sieve (or colander lined with cheesecloth) and drain for 30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. - In a small saucepan, heat the remaining ingredients over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. Transfer the tomato mixture to a heatproof container and pour the pickling liquid over it. Refrigerate in an airtight container for at least 2 hours or overnight. The relish will last, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.
SMOKED PAPRIKA AIOLI makes 2 cups Silky in texture, smoky sweet heat in taste INGREDIENTS • ¼ cup white wine • 1 tablespoon smoked paprika • 2 large egg yolks • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne • 1 garlic clove • 1-cup canola oil • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil PREPARATION - In a small saucepan, simmer the wine with the smoked paprika for about a minute. Allow to cool. - In the bowl of a food processor ﬁtted with the metal blade, combine the yolks, wine mixture, lemon juice, mustard, cayenne and garlic. Process on the lowest setting for 30 seconds, until smooth. With the processor running, slowly drizzle in the canola oil, followed by the olive oil. - Thin with water if necessary. - The aioli will be shiny and the consistency of thin mayonnaise. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use, or for up to 2 days.
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
food review New at Tennessee Brew Works |
t was a wise move when Tennessee Brew Works founder Christian Spears decided to add a commercial kitchen to the brewery and taproom, even wiser when he tapped Jay Mitchell as executive chef. From the start, Mitchell has been dedicated to utilizing brewery ingredients in his seasonal preparations. His clever Five Beer Burger is a Nashville favorite, and those crispy fries wouldn’t be near as good without his Basil Ryeman ketchup. Now, he’s expanded the menu and it includes lunch service. A few of us TCB staﬀers popped in recently to sample the new fare and found plenty to rave about. For tasty mid-day eating and drinking, you’ve got great choices. We’ll start with drinking part. On tap now are several specialties of the season, including a sessionable State Park Blond ale; Nashweizen—a little different from previous years with a more
pronounced banana on the front and tropical fruit ﬁnish; and the City Winery Collaboration, a luscious Belgian Abbey strong ale that’s been aged in pinot noir barrels, courtesy of the neighboring City Winery. Tangy notes of ﬁg and dark stone fruit make this one memorable. Sometimes you just want a salad. Mitchell’s simply named Garden Salad isn’t so simple—it’s a fresh mélange of Bibb lettuce, heirloom cherry tomatoes, small dice cucumbers, pork belly lardons, crispy cheese bits, and Southern Wit croutons, all tumbled in State Park ranch. We also love Mitchells’ dreamy housemade burrata, drizzled with his Cutaway pickle reduction and pureed corn, surrounded by ripe red and yellow tomatoes and basil. Lastly, his Melon and Country Ham might be his most creative: the sweet cubes of honeydew and cantaloupe come draped with the ham, sparked with black garlic, espresso and
Written By: Nancy Vienneau
tarragon, with radish shavings, for crunch. Sweet-salt-sour-bitter—it’s got it all. As we move into fall, we know that tomatoes and melons will be replaced by the likes of butternut squash, sweet potatoes, hardy greens and peppers. We’ll expect delicious innovations to the menu. For a two-ﬁsted lunch, try the pulled pork and Extra Easy peach barbeque sauce piled on a bun with Southern Wit comeback slaw. Mighty good eating, especially with a pint of 1927 IPA. Don’t dismiss the Fruit Salad because you think it won’t be anything special — you’d be wrong. Slices of perfectly ripe peaches and fresh berries are napped in a tart crema that Mitchell sources from a Honduran market. A squeeze of lime makes it sing. Have it, along with a glass of the hoppy fruit-forward Nashweizen, after your “Hair of the Downward Dog” yoga class. Oh, yes, that’s Saturday mornings at Tennessee Brew Works.
food review continued Shakerag |
Sewanee TN sewanee-inn.com
he natural beauty of Sewanee Tennessee draws people from far and wide to hike, bike, retreat and unwind. The mountain community, anchored by The University of the South, has an academic yet laid-back vibe, with some cool spots for good food and drink. You can choose from an array of craft brews and deli sandwiches at Shenanigan’s, the funky house that’s been the town’s mainstay since 1974. Or slide next door to The Blue Chair for a thick-grilled burger and a pint of Jackalope’s Thunder Ann. But if you want to relax in posh surroundings, you owe it yourself to go to Shakerag in The Sewanee Inn, (aka “The Living Room of the University of the South.” Posh, yes, but not pretentious: It’s a cozy bar and lounge oﬀering potent cocktails, specialty draft beers, an impressive cache of regional bourbons and whiskeys and tasty fare. Sit and sip the Stormy Mountain, a heady quaﬀ combining Buﬀalo Trace bourbon, bitters and ginger beer with a ﬂoat of dark rum. Better not plan to leave the mountain! It’s Buﬀalo Trace again in the The Sewanee Sidecar, replacing cognac in this lightened version with Cointreau, lemon and a sugared rim. Bourbon, they say, is better. Snack on the likes of ﬂash-fried Brussels sprouts with lemon aioli or New Orleans style barbecued shrimp. Or settle in for a full meal, like the locally-sourced grilled steak with red wine demi-glace and a side of hand-cut fries. An assertive dose of rye malt gives this IPA a red amber color, grassy aroma and bold, spicy taste. It starts sweet
and ﬁnishes bitter and goes well with a number of fall-inspired foods like Shakerag’s Duck Conﬁt Corncakes. Folded with bits of the meat and green onion in the batter, the warm savory cakes come drizzled with maple-bourbon gastrique and crowned with apple slaw and duck skin cracklings.
RECOMMENDED PAIRING Duck Confit Corncakes and Turtle Anarchy’s Another Way to Rye (available on tap)
Delia’s Authentic Mexican |
Dayton, TN (423)-570-1813
Folks in the know have long thronged to this east Tennessee gem along the Rhea Highway in Dayton—as well as its sister taqueria in Soddy-Daisy—because when it comes to Mexican food, Delia’s is the real deal. And, it’s a family-friendly place. You can’t go wrong with the Tazon de Nachos, a mammoth plate loaded with all the usual goodies, however, it’s exceptionally fresh and fun to share. Other crowd pleasers include the pork-ﬁlled tamales, tender and packed with spiced meat, and the shredded beef barbacoa and cheese ﬁlled quesadillas. Good Mexican food demands good Mexican beer— and the selection of cervezas at Delia’s is respectable. My theory is that Mexican beers taste best in Mexico, but at Delia’s, you can pretend. A super-chilled bottle of Sol, the country’s most popular beer, is light and crisp, with or without the lime. It makes for easy-breezy drinking while you chow down on a burrito or demolish a mess of enchiladas. We’re partial to the Chori-Pollo platter, where cheese sauce, laden with crumbled chorizo, cloaks scallopine of chicken breast. The spice is just right. Black beans and fragrant rice round out the plate, making a hearty meal. It’s a little sophisticated, so get a beer with a little more depth: Dos Equis Ambar. It is a Viennese-style lager, medium bodied, with ﬂavors of toast, fruit and caramel in a bitter-balanced ﬁnish.
t Delia’s, the colors are bright; the beer is ice cold; the chips with salsa are crisp, warm and free. Fiesta!
RECOMMENDED PAIRING Chori-Pollo and Dos Equis Amber
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
brewery proﬁle | east nashville beer works |
Written By: Scott Sutton
Sean Jewett and Anthony Davis, Co-Founders of ENBW
ho would have thought one of Nashville’s up and coming breweries would be brought to us by Pepsi? Well, we can thank good old Pepsi for bringing us Sean Jewett. A former 30+ year teetotaler from St. Louis is the man behind the liquid offerings of East Nashville Beer Works. Located just oﬀ of Dickerson Pike and Trinity Lane, the building might sneak up on you. Do not miss it. You will be missing out on some of Nashville’s most unique beers. In the burgeoning Nashville beer scene, it takes some innovative thinking to set your brewery apart from many of the stalwarts and up and coming breweries. Sean and managing partner Anthony Davis are doing just that -- creating unique beers, a fantastic taproom and kitchen and a building that is rapidly becoming a pillar of the East Nashville community. It seems like a match made in heaven. Sean brews the beer and Anthony markets and promotes their product. So far, their plan has been pretty successful. Sean started home brewing after visiting a few local pubs. He wanted to see if he could make something as tasty as the beers he had with coworkers that changed his mind about beer. He waited until he graduated from Vanderbilt with a masters in liberal arts and science to start concocting beers in the small duplex he rented. He graduated to a bigger house and rapidly outgrew that as well. Anthony comes from the other side. He knew he wanted to be involved in beer in some capacity. Whether distributing or owning he wanted to be involved in the beer community. A little over a year ago, when they celebrated their 1 year anniversary, the stars aligned and East Nashville Beer Works started churning out their ﬂagship beer, Miro Miel. The name for this unique honey blonde comes from the Spanish occupation of middle Tennessee which they called Miro. Miel is the Spanish name for honey, and man does this beer have honey in it. Because they aim to source locally when possible, ENBW gets all of their honey from Johnsons Honey Farm on Dickerson Pike. They sure use plenty of the sweet nectar -- six pounds of local honey per barrel. They also smoke all of their own hickory for their Young Hickory Smoked Porter. By using as many local ingredients as possible, they are ingraining themselves into the community. “We didn’t want to just start a brewery in East Nashville and name it East Nashville just to latch on to a name. We
“We didn’t want to just start a brewery in East Nashville and name it East Nashville just to latch on to a name. We truly want to be a staple of the community.
truly want to be a staple of the community. We have a family friendly tap room and a dog friendly patio. I’ve personally taken water out to folks that brought their dogs up here on a Saturday. That’s what we are striving to be synonymous with in the East Nashville community.” Their beers are taking oﬀ all over
the mid-state. From Bellevue to Lebanon and Columbia to Hendersonville, the reputation is really picking up steam. “Miro Miel is by far our top selling beer. We only carry Tennessee beers. If for some reason we run out there is hell to pay. I’ve had to put down some riots when the kegs are out!” says Eddie Anderson,
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
brewery proﬁle continued
wner of Sanders Ferry Pizza in Hendersonville. “We are going through about 8-10 half barrels a month. But that’s just the Miro Miel I’m talking about. In a restaurant that seats 75 people. We try and keep at least 2-3 of their beers on at all times. Cumberland Punch, a citrus wheat, has taken the place of that other beer people drink with an orange. Not anymore!” Anthony and Sean are gracious about the reception they have received from the community. “We were hoping for neighborhood local support. Come in on a Saturday and there’s no telling where the crowd is from. Just the other day I had a conversation with a gentleman from Canada. It’s just amazing to me the reception we have seen from our community, Nashville and Bounty Bev. They are our distributor and have excelled our expectations with getting the beer out there and helping tell everyone about it. They have been an awesome partner to deal with.” While they have just ﬁnished up their ﬁrst year of operation, there is no slowing down in sight, which is ﬁne with Sean. “We always hoped we were going to have the problem of having to expand. Things are progressing rapidly. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a problem we welcome with open arms.”
Next time you feel like hitting the East Side, stop by and check out their list of taproom-only brews. There is always someone from out of state or even out of the county that comes by. It’s pretty interesting to see the diversity. East Nashville Beer Works has only been around a year but they are deﬁ-
nitely in it for the long haul. Cheers to you guys and here’s to another great year. East Nashville Beer Works is located at 320 East Trinity Ln. Nashville TN 37207 and their products can be found at Homegrown Taproom, Mt Juliet Market, Tupelo Honey, Farmburger and many other locations.
autumn a au tumn issue
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
cigar room From London with Love and Flavor |
Written By: Justin Harris
Regius Exclusivo USA Oscuro Especial Wrapper: Mexican San Andres Binder: Nicaragua Filler: Nicaragua Vitola for Eval: 5 1/2 x 52 Boxpressed Toro The Regius Exclusivo USA Oscuro, produced at the Placensia factory in Nicaragua, is super dark and super oily. At ﬁrst glance, one would automatically assume that it’s robust and potent. With a beautiful chocolate colored Mexican wrapper, the box-pressed toro is visually appealing and creates the anticipation of a good long smoke and a curiosity that can only be quenched by cutting and ﬁring it up. Though the Exclusivo USA Oscuro is hailed as their most full-bodied cigar to date, I would classify it as Medium-Full, with a collection of complex ﬂavors. The overall impressions of dark fruit, cocoa and mild spices were pleasant ones that make it worthy of trying and/or revisiting. The premium Regius Exclusivo USA Oscuro has a semi-premium price tag, retailing between $9 and $12, so while it may not be priced as an everyday cigar, it can be one that is enjoyed often. This may be a cigar that I let age a little to pull out on a special occasion.
cigar room continued
ve never had the pleasure of visiting England, but I plan to as my daughter’s name is London and she has been begging me to take her. Anyone that knows me, knows that the ﬁrst thing I do when I ﬁnd out I’m traveling is scope out the area for cigar shops and bars/pubs. Since I won’t get to jolly old England any time soon, I’ve been fortunate enough to be able to taste some of the best they have to oﬀer right here in Middle Tennessee. For 6 months, the team at Turtle Anarchy (TA) researched, brewed and developed from the inside out a beer that could be called an ESB, or Extra Special Bitter. Starting with just a concept—how it should feel, look, taste, even how people should feel when they drink it. The Turtle Anarchy team was determined to create their own artistic roadmap of how to produce a beer that is uniquely British here in Tennessee. They cemented their ideas and then incorporated some science, and Mrs. Lovett’s ESB (MLE) was the result. Made entirely of malts from the UK, TA wanted to make their ESB as traditional as possible, but with their own twist. According to Turtle Anarchy President Mark Kamp, the MLE’s malt characteristics are spot on with that of an ESB, but with more of a Pale Ale hop presence, so it’s
slightly more bitter than the traditional. “It still has that earthly, hoppy, toasty ﬂavor that we love, with a heightened alcohol content at 6.5% for an ESB,” said Kamp. It was amazing to hear the similarities between the beer blending process and the cigar blending process. Like with cigars, the blenders have their ear to the ground regarding what their consumers like, but they ultimately have to like the way it tastes themselves...blending what they like and then tweaking it to exceed client expectations. The other similarity is mineral content. Where tobacco seeds are grown (country, climate and soil) has one of the greatest impacts on taste. The same holds true for the ESB. The water proﬁle in London, is what gives traditional ESB its unique taste. In an attempt to match London’s water, Corbett Ouellette, Lab Tech and Assistant Brewer, was charged with matching the mineral content of London’s water so that regardless of the water source, they are able to duplicate London water’s characteristics. This science helps TA maintain consistency with each batch of beer made for its consumers. “We set ourselves apart from other craft breweries by our approach and how we use the ingredients. Our beer is diﬀerent because we’re diﬀerent. Our name, Turtle Anarchy, comes from the thought that the
craft beer industry is a ‘Slow Revolution’ where we must win people over one client at a time, and that’s what we’re doing with Mrs. Lovett’s ESB,” said Kamp. While we’re on that side of the pond, the Regius Cigar Company, based in London, England has been making waves here in the US as well. European cigar aﬁcionados oftentimes lean toward Cuban cigars rather than US blends, because in many countries Cubans are readily available and are a sign of luxury and prestige. When releasing brands in those countries, it’s critical for cigars to have many of the same qualities (look, feel and taste) of those that hail from the island nation, including the cost. So when entering the US cigar market, Regius Cigars of London, England decided that they would move away from their cubanesque blends and create a line of cigars that would appeal to the modern palates that stateside aﬁcionados have developed over the last couple of decades. The 2016 release of the Regius Exclusivo USA Oscuro Especial (Blue) line completes the Red, White and Blue set by oﬀering a full-bodied, ﬂavorful cigar that appeals to those who appreciate ﬂavor, premium tobacco and the prestige that Regius Cigars is known for overseas.
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
feature | steel barrel at hop springs Changing Palates, Perceptions & Even Hops |
his will be all fruit trees and honey bees,” said Mark Jones, sweeping his arm at the panorama of rolling green hills and oak trees at Hop Springs, on the edge of Murfreesboro oﬀ John Bragg Highway. “Anything that can go into beer will be grown here; blueberries, blackberries and even indigo,” continued the CEO of Mantra Artisan Ales, Life Is Brewing and his newest brand, Steel Barrel Brewery. When completed, Steel Barrel will be the largest craft brewery in Tennessee. Steel Barrel Brewery at Hop Springs expects to have its soft opening in February 2018, with a grand opening in May. And grand it will be 83 acres dedicated to an agritourism destination unlike anything Tennessee and perhaps the South has ever seen.
THE INSPIRATION OF THE LAND Phase One of Hop Springs will feature a 15,000-square-foot brewery and 500-seat taproom to showcase Steel Barrel Brewing’s craft brews, a 3,000-seat amphitheater, an 18-hole disc golf course, a children’s play area, dog parks and more. One of the most unique features will be a 10-acre hops and grain farm and research center, managed and cultivated in partnership with Middle Tennessee State University’s brand new Fermentation Science and Sensory Lab pro-grams. Hop Springs’ Phase Two, to be completed in 2019, will add another layer of agridestination ap-peal with nine cabins, a restaurant and greenhouse, a 15,000-square-foot event center, a ﬁve-acre lake with a swim-up beer bar, and a 5-km running track looping around the property. Ah yes, back to the land. It’s impossible to capture the vision of Steel Barrel at Hop Springs without talking about
Written By: Gini David
the land that inspires every amenity and design decision. “We designed the brewery around those two 100-year-old oak trees,” said Mark, pointing to a pair of stately trees. “And these limestone rocks have a home, I just haven’t ﬁgured out where. But these boulders here – they will be used as water features, for sure.” Steel Barrel Brewery will be the centerpiece of Hop Springs, designed with a wraparound porch with straight-on views of the fruit trees and distant mountains. The spacious taproom will fea-ture a 360-degree singer-songwriter stage atop a giant slab of limestone. “Hop Springs will be all about the adventure, the experience, combining Tennessee’s natural beauty, agriculture and great tasting beer. You’ll be able to use an app to order beer from anywhere on the property and have it delivered to you by servers on horseback -- or on foot,” says Mark. “Hop Springs will be a phenomenal venue for music, entertainment, charity functions and special events with a focus on education.”
autumn issue WINNING PALATES WITH ‘APPROACHABLE’ BEERS “I’m excited about Hop Springs,” says Maneet Chauhan, one of the founding partners of Steel Barrel, Life Is Brewing and Mantra Artisan Ales, along with her husband, entrepreneur Vivek Deora. “Every time we go to the farm, an idea comes up. Hop Springs will be amazing, one of the biggest destinations in Tennessee,” she says, adding it will also be “a culinary center where people and chefs from all over will gather” to exchange ideas and host events around food and drink. Maneet would know. Born in India, she is a renowned chef and cookbook author (“Flavors of My World: A Culinary Tour Through 25 Countries”) and co-owner and executive chef of three notable Nashville restaurants (Chauhan Ale & Masala House, Mockingbird and Tansuo). Maneet has also been a judge on Food Network’s “Chopped” and “The Next Iron Chef,” so you can be sure the culinary bar will be set deliciously high at Hop Springs. “Mantra takes beer to the next level, where beer has never been before,” says Maneet, who inspired Saﬀron IPA and suggests more creative musing and cool brews – ahead at Steel Barrel. “To us, what is important is inclusion of people and families coming together to enjoy food and drinks in a beautiful setting,” says the mother of two small children. “As a destination, we will make it approachable and, most of all, fun!” In addition to changing the template for Tennessee’s tourism and beer scene, it’s imagined that Steel Barrel will change the beer-drinking habits of many. John Arnold, Steel Barrel and Mantra Artisan Ales’ personable sales rep, points to his grey T-shirt. “The Steel Barrel logo features a bridge, and we hope to bridge the gap between craft and non-craft beer drinkers. “We want to make craft beer more approachable to everyone.” “In the craft world, we’ve done an amazing job of creating great beers, serendipitous beers, but it’s left out the average beer drinker who may want to try a craft beer, but isn’t ready for a double IPA or bitter hoppy bomb,” he says. “Steel Barrel has unique, approachable beers that will appeal to the craft beer novice. Every Steel Barrel beer is a day-drinking beer, a session beer, made for the active lifestyle. We want you to drink what you like and be open to trying new brews.” THE MAN BEHIND THE BREWS John knows the culture and biases of craft and non-craft beer drinkers. But if anyone can change hearts, minds and palates about craft beer, it’s Derrick Morse, the brewmaster for Steel Barrel Brewery and Mantra Artisan Ales. Even Mark Jones claims he was a Miller Lite guy until he met Derrick. His oﬃcial title is
founder, brewmaster and chief of brewing operations for Life Is Brewing, the parent beverage company that oversees beer production at both Mantra and Steel Barrel. “The liquid side of things is my creative side of things,” explains Derrick. “I taste something and it immediately explodes into color and I identify it in a
and the mouth feel, everything.” His appetite for brewing complex beers has earned him a reputation as “a mad scientist,” but when it comes to Steel Barrel, Derrick draws his inspiration from elsewhere. “When we designed Steel Barrel, we wanted it to ﬁt into our family, the Tennessee lexicon and tried-and-true beer ﬂavor,” says
Mantra co-founder and renowned chef Maneet Chauhan and founder/ brewmaster Derrick Morse inspect hops for a new brew.
wavelength. My brain starts working on how to manipulate biochemistry and single cell organisms, bacteria and yeast into ﬂavor.” “When you open a bottle of Saﬀron or Cassis, which is aged 18 months, these are pieces of my mental landscape in those beers,” explains Derrick. “Every beer dives back into some ﬂavor memory in my consciousness. Like with our Cassis sour, I’m eight years old eating little tart black currant berries in Germany that my Omi would put into German tarts. Or take Citreamsicle. I was drinking these citrusy beers, and after mowing the lawn, I gave my son one of those orange Dreamsicle pops. I tasted it, drank my IPA, and pow… there’s this burlesque show in my mouth and my mind engages. That engagement of icecream and endorphins. I immediately designed a beer in my head, in a nano second.” True, Derrick has been known to change people’s perceptions about beer. “I start with where you are. I met Mark Jones in 2013, when I was brewing at Cool Springs Brewery. He was drinking Miller Lite and I gave him Cool Springs’ Franklin’s First and he liked it. When I talk to people about beers they’re tasting, I describe the ﬂavors at the beginning, mid-palate, and at ﬁnish,
Derrick. “Steel Barrel is my warm blanket, the super comfortable T-shirt I always wear. It’s about basics, my love for baseball, mountain biking, four wheeling, unpretentiousness and authenticity. I love this brand and I love all four Steel Barrel beers.” Derrick gets a dreamy look in his eyes when he talks about the four Steel Barrel beers he’s created, especially Johnny Red. “When my mom would drop me oﬀ at the movie theatre, I’d get these caramel chocolate, malty Whoppers. At an early point in in my craft beer evolution, that taste became my core at age 23. So when I started to develop Steel Barrel I dove into the things that made me get into craft beer in the ﬁrst place, like a hoppy, dark caramel and gold standard Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.” Steel Barrel’s second beer, Americana, is a pale ale which Derrick relates to one of his favorite breweries, Sierra Nevada. “I love their story, their branding, the way Ken Grossman has stayed true and never wavers from his core. I always wanted that it had to be authentic.” Their third beer is also in Derrick’s DNA. “Frost is our German Kolsch, very crisp and clean. I’m German, and Frost reminds me of my childhood.”
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
feature | steel barrel continued
inally, Steel Barrel’s fourth beer is a love story. “Guinness is my all-time favorite beer. When my wife Kaleigh and I were ﬁrst together, we’d sit on our patio in Boulder, drink Full Sail Session Black in tiny bottles, and get hammered playing rock/ paper/scissors with bottle caps. I was going for an easy-drinking sipping beer. It has a dark roasted character that lifts oﬀ your tongue. It’s an English mild, but we call it a black ale because no one knows what English mild means.” Derrick’s journey to brewmaster and founder of Mantra is the original “one door closes, anoth-er ﬂies open” saga, with lots of drama, karma and romance. In 2009 he was downsized out of his job at a software company in Boulder. “I walked into a bottle shop, the largest liquor store in Boulder, and started spending my severance. I bought about $3,000 in beer and $2,000 worth of Scotch,” he recalls. “The outside sales rep for Twisted Pine was there and invited me to intern at the brewery. I thought, ‘Why not?’ I learned how to manipulate ﬂavor with their brewmaster Bob Baile. They call him ‘Twisted Bob’ in Colorado; he has a reputation for march-ing to his own drum.” He spent three years at Twisted Pine, and met his wife at Left Hand Brewing Company. “We were in Colorado and literally sitting in delivery room waiting for our son to be born. I was look-ing for new brew tanks, popped open my laptop, and noticed Cool Springs Brewery was looking for a brewmaster. After checking with my wife, I submitted my résumé and they called me half an hour later. I did a phone interview and asked for total creative freedom.” Forty-ﬁve days lat-er, he interviewed in person and two weeks later they moved to Tennessee. In 2012 there were only ﬁve breweries in Nashville proper, says Derrick. “But at Cool Springs Brewery, I had the keys to the castle as the brewmaster and got to put my stamp on beer.” By 2015, they had two kids and began talking about starting a brewery. “About that time I met Maneet Chauhan, who approached me about creating a beer for her and I designed Saﬀron IPA, which would later become one of Mantra’s ﬂagships.” With that creative collaboration, and a few other twists of fate, Mantra opened in late 2015. “We’re conscious that people work hard for their money – you can’t short cut beer,” says Der-rick, noting his wife Kaleigh has a heavy inﬂuence on the way things evolved at Mantra, from the look of the logo, to the
labels. Kaleigh, in fact, is the beautiful redhaired woman on the Saf-fron IPA label. Derrick’s vision for Steel Barrel is big – ginormous, actually. Although its 60-barrel production system won’t be as large as Sierra Nevada in Asheville, NC, he expects to produce 125,000 barrels annually. This should have a positive impact on Tennessee’s economy, not only for tourism and local businesses, but also on Tennessee revenue. Derrick points out that despite the fact that Tennessee is one of nine states that does not have a state income tax, it has the highest beer tax in the country (nearly $37 per barrel). Derrick and other brewers would like to turn that around. “If we reduce our beer tax by half, we would still have the highest beer tax in the country,” he says. “We need to make our state legislators understand the overall economic impact that our high beer tax has on the beer industry.” But Derrick is encouraged by the support he’s received from politicians on the matter, especially from State Sen. Bill Ketron and Sen. Jack Johnson, as well as from U.S. Rep. Marsha Blackburn who helped with the opening of Mantra in Franklin. PARTNERING WITH MTSU Educating palates, changing perceptions about beer and taste – everything about Steel Barrel circles back to education. This will manifest itself most vividly at the 10-acre farm which will include a hops research plot, greenhouse, bee hives and other amenities. Good beer requires good ingredients, and toward that aim Steel Barrel has partnered with Middle Tennessee State University’s brand new Fermentation Science program, an extension of its School of Agribusi-ness and Agriscience. Together, they hope to change the landscape of beer production in Ten-nessee. Under the direction of Dr. Tony Johnston, students will research and develop new hops varieties better suited for Tennessee. Derrick recalls when he met the professor and program director of the Fermentation Science program. “When I ﬁrst met Tony, I wasn’t sure where it was going, but at the end of the meeting I knew we were going to make little beer babies.” “Derrick and I share a vision, and my objective is to work with the faculty with the required ex-pertise to create hops that will do well in Tennessee,” says Tony. Hops and barley used to be grown in the South, he says. But the industry withered with Prohibition and later, when big companies swallowed up small and craft brewers who used diﬀerent hops varieties. “It was plain old eco-
nomics.” In the future it may be the quest for something diﬀerent – and the invention of a new hops – that revitalizes hops production here. “If people want to drink something diﬀerent, you have to start with something diﬀerent,” explains Tony. Although economics drove hops production to Oregon and Washington, Tony is optimistic that it has a future here. “We’ll be looking at varieties that are physically smaller, produce faster, and do well in soil that’s heavy in clay – varieties that can handle the humidity and relatively hot temperatures. Cascade and Centennial survive here, but are not particularly happy. We want to produce hops that are happy here.” In early 2018, MTSU students will plant the ﬁrst hops rhizomes. Don’t expect a solid 10 acres of hops; rather, imagine a variety of crops grown and harvested throughout the year. Students will also experiment with trellising and improving quality and production. When the greenhouse opens, they will conduct research there and in the ﬁeld. Hammocks hung in trees edging the farm will give the students and visitors a place to relax and enjoy the scene. The Fermentation Science program has MTSU’s healthy support. In 2015, MTSU’s Provost ap-proached Tony with the idea of oﬀering a degree in brewing. Tony, who had been teaching wine appreciation and production in the School of Agriscience since 1995, recommended the Fermentation Science program instead. Now it’s expected that MTSU’s Fermentation Science program, which will oﬀer a B.S. starting this fall, will be one of the country’s broadest programs of its kind. Plus, it will include a Sensory Lab for gathering data on colors, ﬂavors, aromas, and textures on food, beverage, or fabric – data to be used in future formulations of food and other products, says Tony From inventing Tennessee-loving hops to changing the way beer is brewed, perceived, enjoyed and perhaps even taxed, Steel Barrel at Hop Springs promises to shift the paradigms of Tennes-see’s craft beer scene. With a grand vision – one that focuses on nature, education, and enjoy-ment – there will be plenty of opportunities and adventures ahead. “Steel Barrel is the embodiment of enjoying the nicer things of life. When I sit on the back porch, I’m drinking Steel Barrel. You don’t’ have to think hard about it – it’s solid,” sums up Derrick. One thing is certain – there’s something about swimming up to a beer bar or having your IPA delivered on horseback that has unique appeal. I’m in!
BUG CRAWL at the Garden THE TASTIEST WAY TO EXPERIENCE DAVID ROGERSâ€™ BIG BUGS AT THE GARDEN
SEPTEMBER 30 | 7-10 p.m. TASTING STATIONS BY LOCAL AND REGIONAL BREWERIES AND DISTILLERIES
FOOD TRUCKS PURCHASE VIB (VERY IMPORTANT BUG) TICKETS FOR ACCESS TO EARLY ADMISSION AND GOURMET GRUB BY SWEET GRASS.
MUSIC BY Objekt12 MBG MEMBERS $25 | NON-MEMBERS $35 35 VIB PASSES $55 | TICKETS ONLINE AT TICKETMASTER.COM 901-636-4100 OR MEMPHISBOTANICGARDEN.COM/BIGBUGS S
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
brewery proﬁle | last days of autumn The Neighborhood Brewery for Everyone |
Written By: Rob Shomaker
“Everybody is welcome here,” Tracy tells me – and she means it.
here’s something familiar here. Each time I enter the Last Days of Autumn, while the walls may be made of cinder block and the ﬂoor of concrete, there’s a warmness. Pictures of trees, leaves and trucks adorn the dark green walls, alongside antique beer paraphernalia and a shelf full of games. Mismatched tables and chairs are all around, as well as a few TVs for the obligatory autumn sport – football. The bar boasts 15 ever-rotating taps that today have IPAs, Berliner Weisse and everything in between. As impressive as those taps are, they may very well be overshadowed by the massive pecan bar top, 5 pieces in a U shape -- thick, color
ful, deep and captivating. Outside the patio has lights strung about, tables, chairs and a wooden stage at the bottom of the parking lot which, as luck would have it, acts as a perfect amphitheater. There is a home-like quality that is emphasized even more by the faces I often ﬁnd here. It’s not uncommon to see children running about on a Saturday afternoon as families gather to play, socialize and share a pint for just a moment of pause in this ever-busy world that consumes us. In November of 2014, Mike Frede reached out to me via my blog, KnoxBeerSnobs.com, to invite me and my other half in blogging, Don Kline, to try out a few of his beers and hear about his plans
to open a brewery. Don and I met Mike, his wife, Tracy and his close friend Lee Strange at a little spot north of town. While I remember his beers being clean and true, I mainly recall his energy, passion, drive and enthusiasm. They had what it took; they were going to open a brewery. Perhaps it all began in the mid90s when Mike’s father gave him a homebrew kit for Christmas. Mike said it was just one of those hobbies that stuck. “I had a closet full of bottles,” he tells me. “I would brew and drink a few, then move on to something else.” He eventually settled into the styles he preferred; blondes, pale ales and IPAs. He also mixed in some wheat beers and Belgian ales as those were Tracy’s preferred styles.
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
brewery proﬁle continued
hile Tracy is quick to share how much Mike loves brewing, there’s more to the why behind this brewery. Mike’s background spans from transportation to culinary, even including attending the culinary program at Walter State while working at FedEx. Over the course of 8 years at several employers, Mike went through multiple layoﬀs due to merges and acquisitions. He decided he no longer wanted to be dependent on others for his family’s future. At the same time Mike and Tracy found themselves immersed in the beer community, people from all walks of life who were involved in an open and engaging community. The stars began to align. It was this same open community that helped seal the deal for the couple as it was a trip to Colorado that ﬁnally convinced Tracy that this was the path forward. “People were so open with us,” recalls Tracy. They went from brewery to brewery and asked owners, brewers, bar tenders about their story, what they learned and why they were doing what they were doing. They repeated this same adventure in Asheville a short time later which provided further guidance and solidiﬁed their plans. Shortly after a trip to Charlotte to see the band Leftover Salmon, Mike and Tracy sat on their patio as the band’s songs played in the background. The two were
discussing a name when “Last Days of Autumn” began to play. They both knew the name of the song was a perfect reﬂection of where they were in life; their eldest having graduated, their youngest a junior in college. They were in the empty nest stage of life and if they were ever to create something on their own, it was then. As it is for many who travel down this path, the road was long with many setbacks, delays, twists and turns. After looking at countless locations, 808 East Magnolia became an option. It was large enough, industrial, a blank canvas in many ways with options to grow. There were, of course, challenges with codes and the design and after some lost time (and lost funds,) Mike and Tracy found the right people to push the job forward; Brent Honeycutt took the vision, ran with it and within 6 months, there was beer in the fermenters and the tap lines. The doors were open. The crew at Last Days of Autumn is a close knit family. Head Brewer Daniel Delph has certainly made his imprint on the brewery. “He’s a great match for Mike,” Tracy shares. “While I like the IPAs and blonde ales, Daniel enjoys sours and the darker beers,” adds Mike. “We make a great team. We’re fortunate to have him. He’s part of the family now.” Daniel is known in the craft beer community for his technical aptitude. Mike shares that he can create
a recipe and Daniel can quickly see what needs to be adjusted, then make it happen. Both of Mike and Tracy’s sons are also part of the brewery. Stewart can often be found assisting with the morning brews and Alex is a frequent friendly face behind the bar, on deliveries and at special events. Close friend Lee Strange is also a familiar face as he has been a part of the brewery from the beginning and can often be found behind the bar. Beer, bands, homemade food on the menu, kids, dogs on the patio -- the arms of Last Days of Autumn are open to all. This family serves only the best and it shows by the accolades on their wall, the patrons that come through the door and the smiles on their faces. While this isn’t a brewery with grand aspirations, Mike hopes to one day graduate from a 3 barrel system to perhaps a 7 or a 10 barrel. The beer will stay local though, amongst friends. Perhaps the familiarity of Last Days of Autumn that I sense is more familial in nature. Being at Last Days of Autumn is very much like being in your buddy’s basement, garage or backyard. “Everybody is welcome here,” Tracy tells me – and she means it.
environment OktoberForest |
uick: What’s the most important ingredient in any good beer? Water, of course. Beer is more than 90 percent water. Pure water is fundamental to brewing any beer. Amazingly, America’s forests are a huge help with that. More than half of America’s drinking water is ﬁltered and puriﬁed by forests before it ever reaches your tap. Who knew, right? That’s where The Nature Conservancy’s OktoberForest awareness campaign comes in. The Nature Conservancy wants you to know how important intact, healthy forests are to good beer. During the month of October, the international conservation nonproﬁt and three Tennessee breweries are partnering to raise awareness among beer lovers in the Volunteer State on the importance of protecting and preserving our Tennessee forests to keep our waters running clean. The participating Tennessee breweries in OktoberForest are Jackalope Brewing Co. in Nashville, Hutton & Smith Brewing Co. in Chattanooga and Yee-Haw Brewing Co. in Johnson City.
“You can’t have clean water without healthy forests,” says Melanie Krautstrunk, co-owner of Hutton & Smith with her husband Joel. “When forests are damaged, you have issues with erosion and sediment in the water, and you have issues with water not being properly ﬁltered by the soil. That’s why we care about forests. Plus, everyone likes to have a nice backdrop of green to look out on!” Bailey Spaulding, CEO of Jackalope, wholeheartedly agrees: “We try really hard to give back to our community, and taking care of forests is ground zero for taking care of the environment. And if you don’t take care of the environment, guess what? Beer goes away. You can’t have good beer without clean water.” To name just one of its forest projects, since 2010, The Nature Conservancy in Tennessee has been working with the U.S. Forest Service and numerous stakeholders on forest restoration in the North Zone of the Cherokee National Forest. Improving the health of these forests spanning 340,000 acres in eastern Tennessee
Written By: Paul Kingsbury
will ultimately help water quality and water quantity for thousands of people. For OktoberForest, The Nature Conservancy and Jackalope have scheduled a volunteer event at Owl’s Hill Nature Sanctuary in Brentwood, on Sunday, Oct. 29, 9 a.m. Afterwards, volunteers will enjoy pizza and some Jackalope beer, of course! OktoberForest is not happening just in Tennessee; it’s a national awareness campaign of The Nature Conservancy that began last year and involved 30 breweries from Delaware to Oregon. To ﬁnd out more about OktoberForest, other breweries participating across the U.S., the role of forests in clean water and more, visit www.oktoberforest.org. Paul Kingsbury is Director of Communications for The Nature Conservancy in Tennessee. Visit www.nature. org/tennessee or www.facebook.com/natureconservancytennessee for details on signing up for this event and other OktoberForest events as they are scheduled.
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
brewery proﬁle | mill creek brewery |
ill Creek Brewing Co., one of Tennessee’s fastest growing craft breweries, sits right outside of Nashville in Nolensville, Tennessee. Located just 100 feet from their namesake tributary, Mill Creek is quietly and strategically turning out thousands of barrels of beer in their historic farm town. The brewery’s story begins like that of many start-ups – with a basement, an entrepreneurial spirit, and over a beer. Chris Going, founder and CEO, was a guitar teacher turned homebrewer. After years in the music industry, he decided to turn his creative outlet from strings to barrels. In 2014, Chris homebrewed all the beer for a family trip to the Smokey Mountains. The beers he homebrewed would later become the brewery’s core year-round beers, and with that, Mill Creek Brewing Co was established.
The brewery began contract brewing their now ﬂagship beer Lil Darlin, which allowed Chris to focus on building their own brew house. And in May 2016, Mill Creek brewed their ﬁrst beer out of their 27,500-sq. ft. facility. Fast forward to today, Mill Creek’s amazing team consists of Chris Going at the helm, Becky Hammond as Brewmaster, and Tyler Dishman as Director of Sales. Together, alongside their brewing, sales and marketing teams, Mill Creek has expanded their distribution to three states – Tennessee, Alabama and Kentucky. In their ﬁrst year alone, this young brewery brewed 3,000 barrels of beer (93,000 gallons or 992,160 cans of beer for all you numbers people out there). The craft beer industry has seen tremendous growth over the last few years, and these guys have certainly captured that. Mill Creek has planned a cellar ex
Written By: Shane Gibbs
pansion which will allow them to double their annual output by 2018. Their focused strategy coupled with their approachable brews has made the growth trajectory for this craft brewery fast and forceful. Their liquid libations consist of four year-round beers studded with seasonal offerings. Lil Darlin, a citrus-infused wheat beer, is our go-to recommendation. Coming in at 4.5% ABV, it’s the perfect beer for warm days spent outdoors or just relaxing at your local bottle shop throwing darts. Landmark (Vintage Lager), Silo (Farmhouse Ale) and Woodshed (IPA) round out their core beers. And this fall season, keep an eye out for their Oktoberfest, which will have your taste buds singing “Prost!” So, grab a six-pack or a pint of Mill Creek the next time you’re out and raise a glass to their motto, “Less fuss. More beer.”
Worlds Fair Beer Part Deux |
Written By: Art Whitaker
Chase Wilson & Rick Kuhlman Jr
t was only 35 years ago that Knoxville, Tennessee was host to the Worlds Fair, and people from all over the world ventured to Knoxville to visit the city and enjoy the fair. Knoxvillian Rick Kuhlman released a light lager brewed in another state that had 9 diďŹ€erent collectible can designs. Ultimately, over 250,000 cases of the beer were sold and the cans became collectors items. Now Rick and a few friends decided to commemorate the 35th anniversary of the fair with a new release of the beer, but instead of a light lager and brewing in another state, they decided to brew a pale ale in Tennessee. They chose homebrewer Chase Wilson to contoct the recipe, and Chase scaled down his award winning IPA Sunsphere to a highly drinkable Pale Ale. They brewed two rounds of draft beer at Fanatic Brewing in Knoxville and brewed a batch that was canned at Fat Bottom Brewing in Nashville for distribution in east Tennessee. Sometime during that period, Chaseâ€™s IPA recipe won the Gold medal for American IPA in the National Homebrewers Competition (recipe on page 46) held in Minneapolis. The Worlds Fair Beer was recently brewed again as cans and draft at Fat Bottom for distribution in Knoxville, Nashville and Chattanooga by the end of September. The story, the team and where the beer can be found currently is listed at worldsfairbeer.com.
2805 Old Fort Pkwy (615) 295-2332
%JQQUG[QWTRTQFWEV &GUKIPKVQPNKPG 9GNCUGTGPITCXGKV VXSSRUW#GHHPDUNFXVWRPFRP & 8 6 7 2 0( 1 * 5 $ 9 , 141 *
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
social drink Grinder’s Switch Winery |
Written By: Pam Windsor
The Grinder’s Switch Winery is holding a Harvest Market and Grape Stomp in Centerville on September 30th.
Photo by: Joey Chesser
rinder’s Switch Winery’s Joey Chesser enjoys every part of the winemaking process. He takes a hands-on approach whether it involves planting and harvesting the grapes in his Hickman County vineyard or taking all the time needed to make sure each and every bottle of wine tastes just right. “We do a lot of testing,” he says. “People make fun of that, but it’s true. You have to taste it throughout the whole process.” Chesser, who usually has a dozen diﬀerent wines -- or more -- available at his Centerville location and the tasting room at Marathon Village in Nashville, says if it doesn’t taste right to him, he ﬁgures it probably won’t taste right to anyone else. “I’ll keep working with it until I have the right amount of sweetness I want and the ﬂavors are there. You have to balance the acidity and the sweetness and the fruit ﬂavor of the wine. Get those three in balance and you’ve got a good drink.”
It was Chesser’s desire to create a “good drink” that got him started on the path to winemaking in the ﬁrst place. Before that, he made a living selling industrial hardware and spent a lot of time on the road. During one of his sales trips to Chicago he came across a particular brand of wine he liked and began considering whether he could grow grapes that could make that kind of wine. He began studying and reading about grapes, and started an experimental vineyard. Over the next few years he grew more than two dozen varieties. “I learned how to grow grapes,” he recalls. “I learned what the problems were in growing grapes, I learned which variety of grapes make the best wine, and I learned how to make wine.” When he started, his goal was simply to create a nice, classy bottle of wine for his own enjoyment. He says that back in the 1990s he traveled to Portugal, and discovered a wine he liked made of Touriga Nacional grapes
which are unique to that part of the world It occurred to him that Portugal and Tennessee had similar weather conditions and perhaps he could grow those grapes here. “Their summers are hot over there like our summers are hot. They don’t have the humidity, but they do have the heat. Touriga is a nice warm weather grape which develops more ﬂavor, more body and more color.” He began growing those grapes, and in 2003 made a wine blend combining Touriga grapes with some of his Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. He entered that wine in the Tennessee Viticulture and Oenological Society competition (TVOS) for amateur winemakers and grape growers. Much to his surprise, he won “Best of Show.” It marked a turning point for him. He needed to decide if he would continue making wine simply to enjoy on his own or do it on a bigger scale. He began growing even more grapes and over the next couple of years decided, along with his family, to open a winery. As they prepared for their ﬁrst harvest, Mother Nature intervened.
social drink continued
e were getting ready for our ﬁrst big harvest from the vineyard because it takes three years before you get your grapes,” he recalls. “In the Spring of ‘07, we had the warmest March on record followed by the coldest April on record. It killed the entire vineyard. We didn’t get any grapes at all.” He had to supplement with grapes and juice from other places, but he made wine. He did that for several years, and then in 2010, he was ﬁnally able to get grapes from his own vineyard. Now, a decade after the winery opened, business is thriving. It got a big boost two years ago when his wife suggested they add a second tasting room and store in Nashville. “Marathon Village is a great tourist spot, so business has increased a lot. In fact, ever since it opened, we’ve really been hopping here to keep enough wine in the bottles to serve this place and the place up there.” Edna McGuirt, who works at the Centerville tasting room says she sees a steady ﬂow of people from all over the world who stop by for tastings. “We have people from everywhere. We’re part of a small wine trail, the Natchez Trace Wine, and people come as
part of that. A lot of times they’re traveling between Memphis and Nashville and see the sign on the interstate and stop by.” With a name like Grinder’s Switch, they do get questions about Minnie Pearl. The famous country comedienne, known for the hat with the dangling price tag and her many appearances on the Grand Ole Opry and Hee Haw, grew up in Centerville, but told people she was from Grinder’s Switch. That wasn’t actually a town, it was a railroad switch, but she deﬁnitely put it on the map. Chesser admits that factored in to choosing the name of the winery. “Nobody’s ever heard of Councils Bend (Road) which is where we are,” he explains. “Grinder’s Switch is about three miles up the road. But you know, Minnie Pearl made it famous with her shtick, so I thought Grinder’s Switch was kind of a cool name.” Although ﬁrst-time visitors come for many diﬀerent reasons, once they’ve tasted the wine, they tend to come back time and again. Big sellers and favorites include Pullman Red, a barrel aged Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon, Switch Red made from the concord grape and often described as “grape juice with a kick,” Blondy, which is similar to a Moscato with peach,
apricot and a back note of muscadine, and Blackberry Express, made – just as you’d imagine – from blackberries. The Marathon Village location also oﬀers something that’s become quite popular, especially during the warmer months of the year... Wine slushies! The demand has been so high, Chesser recently had have another slushy machine installed The slushies start with an icy mixture in a cup, then guests can choose any type of Grinder’s Switch wine to pour over it. Chesser says he never dreamed he’d been running a winery all those years ago when he started growing those ﬁrst few grapes. But it’s evolved into a business that’s turned out to be rewarding in more ways than one. He says it feels good to hear people in the tasting room try the diﬀerent wines and one after the other say how much they like each one. “I enjoy making people happy. That was the diﬀerence in the hardware business. You had to deal with some pretty sour people to be quite honest. People who didn’t want to be there at work. Here, when people come in the door they’re happy and they’re even happier when they leave. Being able to see all of that is probably the best part.” For more information visit gswinery.com
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
industry news Blackberry Farm Bringing Beer to the Masses |
s Managing Partner of Blackberry Farm Brewery, Roy Milner wants to democratize his products. Because let’s face it, the Walland, TN resort that gives the brewery its name has traditionally been known as a place where the well-to-do could relax in the lap of luxury and receive impeccable service at correspondingly high prices. Basically the deal is, if you don’t ask them how much it costs, they’ll never say no to a guest’s requests. And everybody is happy with that arrangement. But when Milner ﬁrst brought the idea of starting a brewery to management’s attention a few years back, it was with the intention of producing a very small amount of lovely farmhouse style ales to be served at meals to augment the voluminous wine collection available to guests. Beginning in 2011, the Blackberry brew team basically worked on a gloriﬁed homebrew system, but that doesn’t mean they weren’t producing some extraordinary saisons right out of the gate. However, they were only available in 750 ml cork-and-cage bottles in the resort’s restaurant and at their gift shop, meaning that you probably had to be pretty well-heeled to experience them. (Or have a generous friend willing to pick you up a few bottles on their vacation trip.) Eventually, the operation expanded such that they could at least oﬀer their beers to a few select high-end restau-
rants around the region, primarily run by friends of Blackberry Farm that shared an appreciation of the artful way that Milner and his team were running their small brewery out of an old barn building on the property. As the beers began to rack up awards and their reputation grew, the management of Blackberry Farm chose to further their investment in the brewery. A new facility in nearby Maryville, TN opened in 2015 with a brand new custom Sprinkman brewing system featuring a 20-barrel brewhouse and 40-barrel fermenters. Finally, the brewery was ready to hit the big time. With a team of about ten employees, Blackberry Farm Brewery has produced more than 40 diﬀerent varieties of beers, including collaborations with notable breweries around the country who make the trek to the foothills of the Smoky Mountains in East Tennessee to brew with the crew.Output grew to near 2400 barrels in 2016 with distribution expanding to 36 states plus Europe. With plenty of capacity to grow within their own footprint, the brewery is wellpositioned for the future. Still, the market for champagne bottle-sized saisons is limited compared to the entire universe of beer drinkers, and Milner sought to introduce the Blackberry name and philosophy beyond collectors and serious epicures. To that end, Blackberry has contracted with Brew Hub out of Florida to
Written By: Chris Chamberlain
create three new canned beers under the brewery’s brand. Featuring can art designed by “friends of the Farm,” the three beers certainly stand out on beer store shelves, and they are priced at a level that is competitive with the higher end of the can market. The three varieties are TN Times, a pilsner, Screaming Cock Pale Ale and a West Coast-style IPA called Coyote Tactics. Even though the actual brewing takes place in Florida, Milner plans to make sure that they are up to Blackberry standards. “Brew Hub serves as our technical partner,” Milner explains. “We always have someone on-site whenever our beers are being brewed, and we came up with the recipes and source the ingredients. We directed them to brew them using our processes, which are diﬀerent from most breweries. Our step mashing leaves less residual sugar and produces a drier beer, which we like.” Milner is conﬁdent that he has chosen the right partner. “Brew Hub is run by a bunch of old A/B guys, and they bring a wealth of mass production knowledge to craft brewers. They market themselves as where craft brewers go to grow. Our idea is to hopefully build our own destination brewery some day and bring the production of these products back in-house, but until then we see this as a great way for Blackberry Farm Brewery fans to enjoy our beers in a more aﬀordable, casual way. We love the outdoors around here, and sometimes a can is just the best way to get your beer to where you’re having fun.” This does not at all mean that the Maryville facility will not continue to grow and innovate. On the contrary, the brewery just took receipt of three custom Foeder tanks that will allow them to experiment with all sorts of fun wood/beer interactions. Each tank will be set up in a unique way to allow for custom ﬁnishes. In addition, Blackberry Farm Brewery continues to grow their elaborate barrel-aging program, taking advantage of the relationships that the resort has already established with wineries and distilleries around the world. From high brow to old school, Blackberry Farm Brewery aims to oﬀer something to just about any beer lover, now at various price points. Milner intends to spread the reputation of his brewery around the world, even to folks that can’t aﬀord a weekend in the resort. So pop open a can, close your eyes and just imagine that you’re sitting on the back porch of the resort watching the morning fog roll oﬀ the top of the mountains in the distance. Beats the hell out of a Busch!
home brew |
his month we want to recognize some Tennessee Homebrewers who medaled at the National Homebrew Competition known as HomebrewCon in Minneapolis and also the new Tennessee Homebrewer of the Year. Chris Allen of Nashville and the Music City Brewers captured the honors of both 2016 Tennessee Homebrewer of the Year and Mid-South Homebrewer of the Year. The award goes to the homebrewer who amasses the most points during a year of homebrew competitions throughout Tennessee and the Mid-South. This year Tennessee also had three homebrewers who medaled at the National Homebrew Competition in Minneapolis known as HomebrewCon. Chase Wilson of Nashville took Gold in the American IPA, 2015 Tennessee Homebrewers of the Year; Matt Warren and Ryan Golden silvered in Smoke Flavored and Wood Aged Beer; and Michael Wasyl-
iw of Brentwood earned a bronze in Spice, Herb and Vegetable Beer. Congrats to all. First to be featured in this issue is Chase Wilson, who took the Gold Medal in the American IPA category at HomebrewCon with his Sunsphere IPA. The American IPA category is one of the toughest categories to medal in as it is one of the categories with the most entries(436 nationwide.) Chase got into homebrewing at a fairly young age and started out with extract batches before going all grain. He has been designing his own recipes from almost the very start and concentrated on tweaking his existing recipes. “My favorite style of beer is IPA, and I love making them because I love mixing together all the diﬀerent types of hops in the market today”. This beer was inspired by a trip to Nashville brewery Bearded Iris, where he talked with the brewers about the importance of water proﬁles in an IPA and how it can bring out the
Written By: Art Whitaker
pronounced hop ﬂavors with reduced bitterness. He implemented the changes and received a bronze at the First Round of the National Homebrew Competition and the re-brewed version for the ﬁnals took Gold. His secret to an IPA that doesn’t have a lot of bitterness is a clean malt bill, with some oats and wheat for mouthfeel. He also treats his water with baking soda, gypsum and calcium chloride. Finally, he uses late hop additions and whirlpooling between 170 degrees and 120 degrees. Chase also was chosen to brew the recreation of the Knoxville Worlds Fair Beer(discussed in another part of this issue.) He became friends with one of the people who originally released the beer(the cans are collectors items) and decided to brew a scaled down version of his IPA as a pale ale. The beer is currently distributed in the Knoxville area, with planned releases In Nashville and Chattanooga in the Fall.
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
home brew continued
CHRIS ALLEN’S RASPBERRY LAMBIC (5 gallons)
hris Allen is the winner of: Tennessee Homebrewer of the Year Mid-South Homebrewer of the Year. Chris is one of the most decorated Tennessee homebrewers in the last few years and his homebrew setup has been featured in homebrewing magazines and social media posts several times over the last few years. Chris started homebrewing after his wife Zea and he purchased a homebrew kit for her Dad. After they brewed several extract beers, meads and wines, he decided it was time for to get in on the action, sold all of his music equipment and designed a custom home brewery. Chris brewed his ﬁrst all-grain batch, an Octoberfest, which won him his very ﬁrst homebrew medal. Since then, Chris has been dominant in homebrew competitions winning 43 gold, 37 silver and 28 bronze medals. These awards in-
GRAIN clude 3 Best of Shows, a Silver Medal in the NHC Final Round and the 2016 Tennessee Homebrewer of the Year. Chris also claimed the MidSouth Homebrewer of the Year last year, which not only includes Tennessee homebrew competitions, but competitions and homebrewers from many of our neighboring states. Chris gets a lot of help from Zea — she helps him bottle and brew, stewards homebrew competitions and also is an award winning homebrewer herself. One of those beers, her Pumpkin Ale is created from her grandmother’s secret pumpkin pie recipe. Chis mentions “I don’t have any plans to open a professional brewery. Instead I get the most enjoyment out of sharing my homebrews with others, whether it’s bottles or serving at festivals.” We enjoy the beer also Chris.
5 lbs 6 oz Pilsner Malt 6 oz Flaked Wheat 12 oz Clear Candi Sugar
HOPS 4 oz Saaz at 60 4 oz Saaz at 100
YEAST 3 packs Wyeast 3278 Belgian Lambic (do not make a starter)
PREPARATION Mash in at 156 degrees for 90 minutes Mash-out at 168 degrees for 10 minutes Fly sparge at 168 degrees Boil 90 minutes Primary Fermentation for 30 days at 68 degrees, then transfer to a 6 gallon secondary carboy Add 2 lbs of Raspberry puree. Age for 1.5 years and bottle OG 1.064 FG 1.002
CHASE WILSON’S GOLD MEDAL RECIPE : SUNSPHERE IPA MALTS 5.5 lbs Maris Otter 2.75 lbs 2-row Malt 1.5 lbs Flaked Oats 1 lb Wheat Malt 0.5 lb Victory Malt
HOPS 0.5 oz Mosaic FWH 1 oz Mosaic @ 15 1 oz Citra @ 10 1 oz Eureka @ 5 1 oz Citra @ 0
WHIRLPOOL HOPS 1 oz ea of Citra, Mosaic, Eureka
DRY HOPS 2 oz Mosaic 3 oz Eureka
PREPARATION Yeast 2 packs of Wyeast 1450 Denny’s Favorite Ale Yeast Mash at 153 degrees for 60 minutes Fermentation 19 days at 64 degrees OG 1.057 FG1.009
industry news Quality Beers Need Quality Equipment |
n 2012, Fat Bottom Brewing was the first brewery to open its doors in East Nashville, an up and coming neighborhood home to musicians, songwriters and visual artists. After a bumpy start, the brewery made a commitment to support its quality, which helped establish a loyal following in the city and across the state. A decade before starting the business, owner Ben Bredesen started brewing beer when his wife bought him a book on home brewing. “She encouraged me to make my own beer instead of spending so much money buying it,” said Bredesen. “It was a decision she immediately regretted.” From filling their bath tub with test recipes to storing mountains of bottles in their closet, his home brewing project enveloped their entire home. In 2012, Bredesen moved his brewing project into a 5,000-square-foot facility in East Nashville and named it Fat Bottom Brewing. The name caught the eyes of intrigued guests, and the beer kept them coming back for more. Bredesen used the recipes he perfected at home and scaled them to fit the new 15-barrel brew house. The whole Fat Bottom experience was novel. Fat Bottom wasn’t just the first brewery in East Nashville, it was the first production brewery in the city to offer food. During their first year in business, Fat Bottom produced a total of 400 barrels of beer. Soon after, Bredesen decided to
start canning beers, and business exploded. Production doubled that year, and then doubled again, and demand quickly exceeded their capacity. There was no denying that Fat Bottom was outgrowing their East Nashville home and needed a bigger space to match the booming demand. In 2015, Bredesen scoured for locations inside the interstate loop in the heart of Music City. With no initial luck, he expanded his search and stumbled upon a vacant lot in The Nations neighborhood of West Nashville. The area reminded Bredesen of East Nashville back in 2005 when he first moved to the neighborhood. Like East Nashville, The Nations was developing its character – new construction was going up, more people were moving in and businesses were popping up. There was no question this would be Fat Bottom’s new home. Since the beginning of this year, their new 33,000-square-foot multi-use facility has housed their brewing and canning operations, a taproom, restaurant, beer garden and private event space. Despite Fat Bottom’s major expansion, business success and continued plans to grow, quality is still at the heart of the story. With their move to The Nations, Bredesen knew that capital investments needed to be made for quality assurance. They wanted to upgrade their equipment from the original oil-injected piston compressor for better energy efficiency, production quality and workplace satisfaction.
Written By: Jon Wallace
“Air runs a lot of the equipment we use,” explained Bredesen. “I wanted better control over the air quality in the system, specifically in the brewing, kegging and canning processes.” After exploring several options, Bredesen chose the Atlas Copco SF 22, an oil-free scroll compressor that delivers clean and dry air, which is an instrument for applications throughout the brewing facility. The new system gave Bredesen and his team peace of mind that oil wouldn’t infiltrate the process and cause issues with product quality. Improving workplace quality was also top of mind. Bredesen wanted a new compressor that would significantly reduce noise pollution in the brewery, and the SF 22 does just that. Its slow speed of scroll compression is much quieter than the original oil-injected piston compressor they had in East Nashville. “The scroll systems for air quality and noise of the device is so much better,” said Bredesen. “We typically have three people running the canning line, and they don’t even notice that the compressor is running.” The new compressor system has helped Fat Bottom produce close to 7,500 barrels in its new space while increasing capacity for production. Unlike their previous system, Fat Bottom’s new SF 22 compressor is able to control air output depending on production demand so no energy is wasted. When it comes to the future of Fat Bottom, Bredesen is excited about opportunities to expand their beer portfolio with the new Atlas Copco compressor system. The SF 22 will help in Bredesen’s plans to open an on-site bottle shop and growler filling station called The Nations’ Tiniest Beer Store in the near future. In the meantime, you can visit Fat Bottom Brewing at 800 44th Ave. N in Nashville, TN.
TCB Magazine | tncraftbeermag.com
By: Mark Brewer
Southern Tier Brewing Company produces Warlock, (8.6% ABV), an Imperial Stout brewed with real pumpkin and all natural ingredients. In previous years this beer was made available with a slightly higher alcohol by volume of 10 percent. Warlock pours deep black with a creamy, tan-colored head with great retention. With every sip, notable traces of lace linger inside of the glass. Aromas of nutmeg, vanilla and cinnamon are equally abundant. The ﬁrst mouthful will reproduce aromatic pumpkin pie notes worth savoring. Warlock has a big, roasted malt taste with a spicy, clove-like character. A deeper dive will divulge notes of molasses, toﬀee and caramel. The ﬁnish is rich with vanilla accompanied by a slight taste of alcohol. Warlock is a heavy-bodied beer with moderate carbonation. Enjoy in a tulip glass to release maximum sensory impact. Warlock’s malty sweetness pairs well with spicy BBQ and carrot cake. Southern Tier Brewing Company headquarters are located in Lakewood, NY. This year, Southern Tier will host their 2nd Annual Pumking Fest on September 23rd. In addition to signature staples, take advantage of the opportunity to try one of their unique beers out of the taps exclusively available at the brewery. A second brewery located in Pittsburgh, PA. Southern Tier Brewing Company brews over 100,000 barrels of beer each year, which are distributed in more than 30 states. For more information, please visit www.stbcbeer.com. Mark Brewer is the Author & Illustrator of Brewology, An Illustrated Dictionary for Beer Lovers
You can take this BLONDE anywhere. Now Available
Published on Sep 14, 2017