TI11 - June 2021

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TRACEABILITY

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JPG ALREADY HAS THE ISO9001 CERTIFICATION P 14

N U M B E R 1 1 J U N E 2 021

I N T E R N AT I O N A L DIRECTOR: MANUEL SERRÃO

INNOVATION

BED LINEN THAT REDUCE SUDDEN DEATH SYNDROME P6

PHOTOSYNTHESIS

ORLANDO MIRANDA Olmac Administrator

“IT'S THE INDUSTRY THAT GENERATES WEALTH FOR THE COUNTRY” P 8&9

FOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO

THE OSCARS FOR TEXTILE INNOVATION P 12&13 COMPANY

PROXIMITY

GARMENT TYE IS ONE OF ORFAMA'S GREATEST ASSETS

LIMA & COMPANHIA WANTS TO REPLACE ASIAN PRODUCTION

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GARMENT TYE IS ONE OF ORFAMA'S GREATEST ASSETS

n EDITORIAL By: Manuel Serrão

KNOWING HOW TO READ THE SIGNS ALSO HELPS

The ability to customize and respond to the customer’s requests, together with the proximity and extreme quality of the products, are Orfama's greatest assets, which is investing in this triptych of added value to stand out from the competition. Working intelligently and valuing added value is the golden rule of the clothing company, which currently divides its operation into two distinct areas: its own brand and private label. To feed this exclusivity strategy, the company works only with 100% organic yarns, organic wool, and differentiated

treatments, such as Garment Tye, a dyeing technique that gives the final piece a touch similar to cashmere, which seduces customers for its softness and comfort. “In addition to being soft, this technique allows for great customization because it basically consists of knitting the piece raw and then dyeing it. This allows the customer to choose in detail the colour they want, not being limited to a pre-established colour palette”, explains António Cunha, Area Sales Manager at Orfama. Another highlight is the 70

euros per kilo organic cotton, which costs three times more than 100% wool. “This is only for customers who are willing to pay for an exclusive product, who value exclusivity. This is the type of customer that we favour. In addition, a close relationship is formed between Orfama and the customer, who knows that only here they obtain this type of item", reveals the company's Sales manager, which currently has its activity divided between the private label and its own brands Poles and Montagut, each worth 50% of the turnover. t

We all know it, but it’s never too much to repeat that innovation is essential to the textile industry, a sector that has been committed to reinventing itself in order to remain competitive in a global market that is increasingly difficult to conquer. It turns out that this innovation is not just a mere technological innovation, with constant attention to new technologies, and new production processes. Nor can it be reduced to the incessant search for novelties in the products that are presented, and the growing commitment to the most modern forms of marketing and distribution. It is important never to forget that the most important player is the final consumer, and their changes in mood and habits. A sector may be technologically well-equipped, capable of a powerful image marketing both nationally and internationally, but if it insists on selling its excellent products to consumers who are already on another level, it will have a serious problem to solve. So far it has never been an issue for the textile and clothing industry, and statistics continue to give us good news. Knowing how to read the signs also helps. t

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SPEED AND SERVICE ARE THE KEYS TO EXPOTIME'S SUCCESS Wedoble's newborn clothing, which is increasingly present in multi-brand stores, and the return of physical contacts, both in private and at trade shows, are the two main reasons why A. Ferreira & Filhos group expects to grow up to 15% this year. “My father wanted a highly exporting company with a fast service and direct contact with customers. That is the origin of the name, which combines export and timing”, says Pedro Valinhas, son of Joaquin Valiñas, a businessman of Galician origin who in 1991 founded Expotime. Men's jackets were initially

the core business of Expotime, which about five years ago stopped producing this product to start making all kinds of pants, in 100% cotton and cotton/elastane, with sophisticated enzymatic washes and other special treatments. “We also produce sportswear and casual wear, for men and women”, adds Pedro Valinhas, who together with his older brother assumes the commercial direction of the company. Today, Expotime, which exports at 75% to markets such as France, Netherlands, Germany, the United Kingdom and Denmark, is one of the largest trouser manufacturers in Portugal.

Its trump cards are the specialized seamstresses, who guarantee high levels of product quality, and customer service, which is individually accompanied from prototype development to fabric proposals, and throughout the entire production process. The two pavilions that store raw materials are another competitive advantage. “The fact that we have raw material available in stock allows us to shorten lead times, and develop a product in two days, which is fantastic”, Pedro Valinhas boasts, concluding that “fast service, direct contact and customer satisfaction” are Expotime secret to success. t

Property: ATP - Associação Têxtil e de Vestuário de Portugal NIF: 501070745 Editor: Mário Jorge Machado Director: Manuel Serrão Adress: Rua Fernando Mesquita, 2785, Ed. CITEVE 4760-03164 Vila Nova de Famalicão Telephone number: +351 252 303 030 Email: tdetextil@atp.pt Subscription e Advertising: Cláudia Azevedo Lopes Telephone number: +351 969 658 043 - mail: cl.tdetextil@gmail.com ERC Provisional Registration: 126725 Circulation: 1000 copies Print Shop: Grafedisport Adress: Estrada Consiglieri Pedroso, 90 - Casal Santa Leopoldina - 2730-053 Barcarena Legal Deposit Number: 451405/19 Editorial Status: Available in: http:// tjornalinternational.com/editorial-statute/

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PORTUGAL AT THE TOP OF THE EUROPEAN LOW-COST INDUSTRY In 2020, 50% of fashion and clothing sales in Europe were made with discounts, and the Portuguese textile industry is at the basis of these aggressive campaigns, as it offers the lowest prices on the continent, according to a study by Fashion Value entitled 'Pricing Report'. On the other side is Italy. The study indicates that "in Western Europe, Portugal is one of the cheapest countries, charging less than seven euros for a t-shirt, and just over 19 euros for a pair of jeans." Italy tops the list of the most expensive, "with almost 40 euros for a pair of jeans and 15 euros for a basic cotton T-shirt".

"I believe that the post-pandemic will be a golden period for textiles in Portugal" José Carvalho Carvema Administrator

FUNAMBULAR IN LIFE WITH KATTY XIOMARA

Funambular is the art of balance on a rope, and was the concept that brought to life Katty Xiomara’s new collection. Utilitarian pieces without a pre-defined season, in a smaller collection (about 20 pieces) where warm tones and graphic accents are highlighted, mixed with the usual romantic and hyper-feminine details. A collection with a strong sustainable component, with prints made on a recycled polyester base. t

AT 74, LANIFÍCIOS IMPÉRIO BECOMES DIGITAL Born in 1947, in Serra da Estrela, it quickly became one of the most important woollen factories in the country, thanks to its quality and fabric variety. Hit by the 2008 crisis, Lanificos Império was later raised from the ashes by Isabel Costa and became the Burel Factory's workshop, salvaging a unique heritage that has now reached the digital world. “Time demanded the company’s adaptation to the market, and digitalization was mandatory”, says Burel, noting that Lanificios Império now has an online site where its story continues. A novelty that, in addition to allowing the visitor to get to know the genesis and historical path of a factory that became a collec-

tive heritage, places it, at 74 years old, in the world of digital business. “We can see some of their fabrics, have access to the digital catalogue, order fabric samples, do budgets for collections and creations, and find new ideas and fabrics”, explains Burel. All based on a unique art heritage, knowledge that it was on the verge of disappearing and was patiently rescued and recovered. “In 2012, when we had already purchased the factory and were moving with the recovery project, we were surprised with a vast collection of fabrics, sketch books, hidden secrets”. Now, all of these treasures are at the Burel Factory's Laniteca, which is open to the public. t

LE EUROPE/LA ESTAMPA BETS ON CUSTOMIZED PRINTS It's called Matteria, and it's a new project by the Satinskin group, which encompasses the textile printing Le Europe/La Estampa. This new online, sustainable and technological brand develops prints tailored to each client. “We created Matteria with the goal of reaching more customers, and to respond to small orders and emerging brands”, explains Lígia Ramalho, the

project’s style coordinator. With the sustainability design incorporated, Matteria developed an innovative software, Match, which allows potential customers to make virtual alterations to the collection. “With Match, we no longer make samples. It’s more sustainable, and we offer the customer a service that allows, for example, to change the colour, luminosity

or dimensions of the pattern”, explains Lígia Ramalho. With this digital platform, Matteria offers a specialized service of unique prints, developed using 100% sustainable raw materials and processes. The new brand of the Satinskin group was officially unveiled at Première Vision, where customers, especially French, German and Italian, were very interested. t

CIRELLE LAUNCHES ITS OWN BRAND

PARFOIS OPENS NEW STORE IN MEXICO CITY

Cirelle, the online sales platform for Portuguese brands, has launched an own collection made in Portugal, and with customized models. With only one year of existence, Cirelle decided to expand its project, and now launches its own womens wear brand. “The goal is to create models with quality, and one of a kind”, explains Mafalda Carvalho, co-creator of the platform.

Première VThe Portuguese brand Parfois has just opened another store in Mexico, where it already has 36 sales spaces across the country. This time, the inauguration was in the capital, Mexico City, on the entrance floor of the Encuentro Oceania shopping centre, also recently opened. Founded in Porto in 1994 by Manuela Medeiros, Parfois has today thousands of stores spread across 70 countries.

87%

of Artefita´s production is intended for exports

PORTUGAL AT THE TOP OF THE EUROPEAN LOW-COST INDUSTRY In 2020, 50% of fashion and clothing sales in Europe were made with discounts, and the Portuguese textile industry is at the basis of these aggressive campaigns, as it offers the lowest prices on the continent, according to a study by Fashion Value entitled 'Pricing Report'. On the other side is Italy. The study indicates that "in Western Europe, Portugal is one of the cheapest countries, charging less than seven euros for a t-shirt, and just over 19 euros for a pair of jeans." Italy tops the list of the most expensive, "with almost 40 euros for a pair of jeans and 15 euros for a basic cotton T-shirt".


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Anuncio T Internacional 235x295(241x301)cm ER 2021 quarta-feira, 13 de janeiro de 2021 10:30:58


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FASHION AND PORTUGUESE TRADITION HIGHLIGHTED IN DUBAI In addition to the traditional Guarda Blankets, the Viana do Castelo Costume has also become another of the great attractions of the Portuguese Pavilion at Expo Dubai. So much so that the costume was chosen to be the protagonist of a local television program about the costumes and cultures of various countries. Under the theme “Portugal, a world in a country”, the Portuguese Pavilion at Expo Dubai – which runs until March, 31st – has 1,800 square meters, where traditional products stand out, and a concept store promotes Portuguese brands.

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"We even created a platform but what our customers want is physical contact" Gabriela Melo Somelos' Design Director

MORE THAN HALF OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS SOLD ONLINE ARE FASHION ITEMS More than half of the apprehensions made in the European Union of counterfeit products are within the fashion sector, with clothing and footwear accounting for more than 50%. The report, produced by the Office for Intellectual Property of the European Union and by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development, analyses how counterfeit products reach consumers, and exposes the electronic commerce as the main distribution channel for this type of merchandise. Regarding the origin of counterfeit products, China occupies the first place in the ranking, with 75.9% of the seizures, followed by Hong Kong (with 5.7%), Turkey (5.6%) and Singapore (3.3%).

LIMA & COMPANHIA WANTS TO REPLACE ASIAN PRODUCTION Pro d uc t ion r e loc ations from A s ia h ave p l a yed in Lima & Co m p anh ia 's favou r: th e a l r e a d y r e g u l a r F renc h c u s t o m e r s ar e now j oined by new En g l is h, S p a nis h a nd G erma n co nt a c t s . B e s ides being inte r e s t e d in l ea rning a bou t the b r a nd 's new knits , th e clie n t s d on’t w a nt th eir ord e r s t r ave l l ing th ou s a nds of ki l om e t r e s b efore rea c h ing the p oint of s a le, at a time w he n int e r nat iona l tra ns por t p r ice s a r e on t h e ris e. C at ar ina C or tinh a s , Lima & Co mp a nh ia ’s des ig ner, s h ar e d w it h T J orna l th at th es e n ew c us t om e r s a re a res u lt of “ de l a ys in or d ers a nd defec ti v e p a r t s ” in As ia n p rodu c tion, thu s op e ning u p a n oppor tu n it y f or E u r op ea n ma nu fa ctur e t o s h ow c a s e its s kills . A f t e r a ye a r ma rked by th e Cov id -1 9 p a ndemic limitatio n s , t h e com p a ny is feeling the cons e qu enc es , na mely the l a ck of ya r n: “w e a re w a i ting f or a ya r n for tw o months now . Th e ya rn w a s not eno ug h f or t h e dema nd w e

ha d, a nd we e nde d up with de la ye d pro duc tio n”. Ho we ve r, e xpe c tatio ns fo r 2022 a re high, as the se co nstraints te nd t o disappe ar as the ac ti v itie s re turn t o no rmal. For the autumn-winter season, the company foc used on a collec tion for men, with well-defined env ironmental con-

cerns: “for four years now, we have felt the demand for organic, recyclable materials, and we have adapted our offer accordingly”, says Catarina Cortinhas. The company is also working on cer tifications, especially GOTS, “very much requested by the Germans”, and on antibac terial finishes. t

FARFETCH DEBUTS ITS OWN BRAND, TWO Based on research and purchases made on its lu xury platform, Farfetch created a brand on its own. There Was One (TWO) promises to offer what all consumers are looking for: long-lasting fashion that fits into their present wardrobe. The first women's collection encompasses 126 pieces, made in par tnership with the New Guards Group, and stands

out for its sophistication and sustainable raw materials. Certified organic cotton, organic silk, Ecovero, virgin wool and recycled nylon are some of the materials that can be found in this first collection. The proposals are currently available on the Farfetch website, and it is possible to find slips, blazers, shirts, denim jackets, overcoats, and pants

in a classic colour palette : shades of black, white, ecr u and blue. F a r f e t c h i s k no w n a s a f a s h i o n s a l e s p l at f o r m t h at brings together the main luxury brands. With TWO, the p l at f o r m co n t i n u e s t o o f f e r products of superior quality, with the extra of embracing the individuality of each c u s t o m e r. t

UNIFARDS PRESENTS NEW ZERO WASTE OUTFIT Unifardas has a new Zero Waste outfit entirely made from sustainable fabrics. TecoWork Ecogreen was the name given to the uniform, destined for industry workers, which was on display at the iTechStyle Green Circle. The design was thought out to provide total comfort to the worker, while being functional at the same time. In order to promote maximum use of the fabric, the company explained that the cuts and cur ves were replaced by straight lines, “which facilitated the fitting of the moulds”. When there was a need to keep the cur ved, “fabric leftovers were used to reinforce seams or to make pockets or belts”, they detail. The outfit, made of waterproof pants and jacket, results from a combination of streetwear and workwear. The materials used were Lyocell and recycled polyester. “We used two sustainable fabrics for the ECO700: the light grey fabric is made up of 35% Lyocell (wooden fibre of sustainable origin) and 65% recycled polyester (from plastic bottles)”, the company stated. Seaqual recycled polyester was used for the black bits of the uniform. t


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n INTERVIEW Orlando Miranda He is 62 years old, is one of the persons in charge of Olmac and accounts for the second generation of the family after Olímpio Miranda, his father, founded it. The capital is divided between the parents, who are still majority shareholders, Orlando and his two siblings – who assume equal positions. Almost all Olmac’s products head abroad, and Sweden Switzerland and Austria are its biggest markets. The pandemic didn’t affect the company has it did others in the sector but Orlando Miranda it's not optimistic when it comes to the recovery. Best case scenario it shall happen in September or October and never before that. Deconfining is not enough: all businesses shall return to its activity, starting by consumption, and only after that shall the time of industry come

PHOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO

"WE ARE A COMPANY GEARED TO TECHNICAL TEXTILES"


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verything pointed that 2020’s income would be extremely positive. For well known reasons it wasn’t. However, the company, which had sufficiently solid funds to face the worst scenarios resisted. Even though there was a loss it had been expected to be much higher. Did you have to make adjustments so as to answer the strange market created in 2020?

We hire around 90% of our production. We obviously had to readjust with our subcontractors, to favour the most faithful and available ones. We felt the obligation to keep the ones which work almost exclusively for us active in the market. The occasional subcontractors were decommissioned as they were usually activated in one-off situations, which had to be reduced. Did production remain almost entirely turned to exports?

Yes. At the moment I can say that we export 98% of the total production. Portugal accounts for very sporadic situations. A part of the sector diverted to the production of individual protective equipment and masks. Did you have to do the same?

We felt displaced from reality: in March and April there was a boom in which all companies started producing masks and IPE. We have never produced IPE but we have made masks – we have masks in stock because when we started producing them the market was already filled. We did them in partnership with A. Sampaio – one of our main suppliers – but in the meantime, it stopped. Curiously, we are producing a mask to the United States, a patented and extremely expensive one. Have you offered one to President Joe Biden?

I don’t know, maybe. I know that a golf champion might be using it. Were North-Americans your customers already?

No, it is an agent of ours, whom we get on well with, who developed and patented the product and later presented us the challenge of producing it – which is being quite expensive as all this process is very time consuming. Where are your main customers located?

The North-American market is quite residual to us: we have two customers, one in California and another in Vermont. We had another client in Los Angeles but we are now in stand-by because it’s a client connected to the fashion sector – which is the textile sub-sector going through the worst crisis. It is a mid-high-end sector,

almost a luxury one, which has several shops throughout the United States and in London. However, business has stopped and they were closed for about three months. We have some capital on the other side and we need to retrieve it to relaunch the partnership. Is it a promising market?

I think so. The United States are a market with an enormous purchasing potential – and very developed in terms of fashion and technical textiles. We have a Sweden customer who sells to the United States and has increased its sales in 45% this year. Which are Olmac’s main markets?

Our main market is the European one – and inside the European market the Scandinavian, alongside Austria and Switzerland are our main focus. Germany once had great weight but at the moment the Scandinavian market – namely Sweden – is the main one. Are they so powerful as the United States?

It is easier to sell expensive items to North-America than to Europe – but these are obviously clients with credit. Doesn’t China attract you as a market?

No. The Chinese people do everything as well or better than we do – I have had the opportunity of visiting some companies in China and they are excellent, but it is not an attractive market to me, the same goes to the Spanish Market. Doesn’t the Spanish market attract you?

No. At the moment we are establishing relationships with a Spanish client in the sportswear area and technical textiles but nothing related to fashion. Isn’t fashion a priority to Olmac?

We are a company targeted to technical textiles – we have gone that way for the past 10 years, we have maintained ourselves and we are always searching for new things, such as new fibers with our suppliers, both Portuguese and European, but this is our focus. When it comes to fashion we only have a client of women’s fashion, with a chain of shops spread all throughout France. We are also in the golfing, running and snow areas. In global terms we can say outdoor is our core business. Always in private label?

Always in private label.

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Swedish market is being rekindled. I have a client that increased around 40% - it was a surprise. What do you think of the way the sector responded to the pandemic? Did Olmac make use of lay off?

No. We are 117, some people had to go home because of their children but we didn’t have to use lay off. In general terms the sector’s response was very positive. Considering the entire scenario the sector turned out just fine.

Miguel Mendes Sales & Innovation Director at A. Sampaio

Will the recovery funds be enough?

Bazuca will be the salvation for many people, not only in Portugal but also in the rest of Europe. This cash injection will help companies a lot. I believe the government has to look closely at companies because it is the companies which dynamize the country and generate wealth. Sometimes we care too much about the public sector and the services but the industries, independently of its type, are the ones that create wealth for the country. These companies must be supported. We hope the funds will be well distributed as sometimes things are not exactly what they seem. Do you believe the European promise of reindustrialization or, in the end, will we all be looking for the best price?

People talk about many things – sustainability, employment, but in the end what matters for the customer is the price. Buying products in Asia, for instance: just consider the fuel spent... we mention sustainability but after all we are polluting more and more, all to save some cents. I will try to lead the customer into European products – Portuguese ones, whenever possible, which are as good or even better than Italian ones, for example, specially when it comes to knitwear. We have very good Portuguese partners that are at the same level of the best European ones, both in innovation, development and product technicity. What’s the weight of Portuguese suppliers to Olmac?

More than 50%. Would you say that the national textile companies win when compared to their opponents?

Yes, they clearly win when compared to the opponents. We compare ourselves to Italians a lot. I usually say that Italians are able to sell even the things they don’t have and we sometimes aren’t even able to sell what we have.

Do you miss presential trade fairs?

I believe everybody misses them. We have Teams or Skype meetings everyday but talking to the client and being able to expose everything that has to do with a product is very difficult through these means. We all depend on human relationships and being in front of the client is always the most important thing. Besides attending trade fairs we also visited clients to show our products and offer alternatives to what was requested and this close relationship made us grow, namely in the Swedish market. Things slowed down, everybody stopped but the feedback I have is that the

the questions of

Technical textiles involve a lot of innovation. Has it been coming more from companies and their eventual involvement with CITEVE or through clients?

It comes more through customers and suppliers. Mainly one: A. Sampaio – it is constantly involved in the research for new fibers, new technicians and new finishings. Is the customer seduced by innovation or is the customer himself who demands it?

Both situations exist. Somethings won’t go back. For example, all the cotton used is organic and all the polyester is recycled. t

How do you see the post-pandemic future in the textile and clothing sector?

The future, though unknown, brings about huge challenges, and I see it as a promising one. We are resilient and we will certainly find alternatives by adapting ourselves to the market's needs, being it in the type of businesses, new product demand, new fibers and new technologies associated to the conception of the product. How do you see the evolution of the cooperation models between companies?

It has always been an Olmac’s standard and we have implemented this model with several partners in several sectors, being them suppliers, service providers and subcontractors. We are more and more confident that we will only be able to lead the sector to the high levels reached in the pre-pandemic phase through healthy cooperation between partners in the textile sector partners. Amélia Antunes Sales Director at Olmac Being fashion one of the sectors that suffers the most with the pandemic, what does the future hold for this area in Olmac?

Even though it represents a small percentage in our production, I believe we will maintain the healthy relationship of mutual support with our clients in this sector. The journey in an ocean as troubled and unknown as this one has only been possible through the establishment of partnerships. In 2020 Olmac kept working and accomplished all its commitments. Which were the essential factors in order to do so?

Firstly, I must thank our work group as without them it would be impossible to reach 2021 maintaining the activity and accomplishing all our obligations towards our clients, suppliers and partners. Secondly I highlight all the supply chain, mainly the national one, and highlight the sense of responsibility of all the colleagues in the sector. Healthy companies enable social and community stability.


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B-MUM: BED LINENS THAT REDUCE SUDDEN DEATH SYNDROME

ONWORK, LEMAR AND POLYANSWER CREATE LEADLESS SMOCK FOR X-RAYS The consortium that gathered Onwork, Lemar and Polyanswer, with the support of Porto’s Faculty of Engineering, Faculty of Sciences, and CITEVE, developed within the scope of the Texboost project an innovative gown that offers total protection against X-rays: does not use lead, and it is lighter than the ones currently on the market. The next phase is to “move on to the national and international promotion”, explains João Almeida, from Onwork. In addition to the gown, other hospital X-ray protective equipment is being developed, namely gowns, vests and thyroid protectors.

"With the commitment to sustainability, we want to reach customers around the world" Isabel Carneiro Polopique Vice President

BUREL FACTORY BUYS ALÇADA & PEREIRA FOR MORE THAN ONE MILLION EUROS The numbers are staggering: in Europe alone, more than 5 thousand babies die each year by sudden death syndrome. The causes are still unknown, but science points out some sleeping positions and choking caused by inadequate bedding as two of the biggest risk factors. That is precisely why B-Mum developed a system that reduces these risks to zero. “The Safety BabyBed is a system that consists of a textile sheet base and, more recently, a technological upgrade that allows us to minimize two major risk factors associated with the sudden death syndrome: the sleeping position and suffocation caused by bed linen ”, explains Mónica Ferreira, CEO of B-Mum. The system – made up of a single sheet that, also from a design point of view, offers greater convenience when making the baby's bed – incorporates a safety system that forced the baby to remain on its back, as indicated by the WHO, and prevents him from sliding down the bed, avoiding the risk of being suffocated by the sheets.

“Our system acts preventively and, thanks to the three side clips, and the two placed between the baby's legs, doesn’t allow the sheets to slide beyond the armpit or, at the most, the shoulder, preventing suffocation”, explains Mónica. The system, which is also fixed on the sides, and does not allow any items to be loose on the bed, ensures that the baby does not uncover during the night. Created in 2017 with the support of the maternity service of the Hospital de Guimarães, where it was tested, the Safety BabyBed is a patented system that now incorporates another novelty: “it's a big upgrade, developed in partnership with a Portuguese technology company, which alerts if some part of the system is loose, or if a clip is not properly tightened”, explains the CEO of B-Mum. “We are currently developing new upgrades, which can monitor other parameters that not only guarantee the baby's safety, but also facilitate the daily lives of mothers and fathers”, Mónica Ferreira discloses. t

Burel Factory has just acquired the insolvent Alçada & Pereira for over one million euros and, after giving it a new name – Transformadora - Fábrica do Pisão Novo –, it’s looking for new customers. The first goal of the investment has already been achieved: “not let the woollen culture of Serra da Estrela disappear”. The textile finishings, dyeing, and yarn processing factory kept the 17 employees, it’s already providing services to customers – "some with decades of connection to the company" –, and it’s positioning itself "as an alternative for new customers".

30%

was the growth of LMA's turnover in 2020

ANTARTE OPENS FLAGSHIP STORE IN LISBON

FS BABY WANTS TO TURN THE CRISIS INTO AN "OPPORTUNITY" Transport prices, customs fees and the need for a quick response to orders can greatly benefit local markets in the coming years, says Rodney Duarte, export sales manager at FS Baby, who believes that Portugal has “a great opportunity at hand”. “Last year we already had some contacts by major European brands that wanted to relocate production

from Asia to Portugal, but this year there are many more brands coming to us with these issues,” says Rodney Duarte. “I believe that we are going to benefit a lot from being a proximity market, but it seems to me that some customers are not ready yet because, for all intents and purposes, the prices we charge in Portugal

are different”, underlining once more the importance of value-added products. The children's fashion company has just launched its Spring-Summer 2022 collection, which highlights organic and recycled materials, as well as an anti-mosquito line developed in partnership with the Portuguese company Smart Innovation. t

Focused on the expansion of the brand, Antarte has just opened a flagship store in Lisbon, with 1,800 m2 divided into four floors. In the new store, customers will be able to find the brand's latest furniture and decoration collections. “We are convinced that each day, Antarte will continue to assert itself as a reference in the decoration and furniture trends market”, says Mário Rocha, CEO. Currently, Antarte has 14 stores in Portugal, and internationally it is present in markets such as South Africa, Angola, Morocco and Ivory Coast, among others.


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2. AS BACKGROUND THERE IS A NEW EDITION OF ITECHSTYLE SHOWCASE, WITH TEXTILE MATERIALS, PRODUCTS AND ACCESSORIES WHICH ARE CANDIDATE TO THE AWARDS OF THE 2021 EDITION

PHOTOSYNTHESIS by: Cláudia Azevedo Lopes

1. THIS TIME INDOORS, ANTÓNIO AMORIM AND ANTÓNIO BRAZ COSTA, CITEVE’S PRESIDENT AND GENERAL-DIRECTOR, CONDUCTED THE CEREMONY WITH THE DOUBLE FUNCTION OF HOSTS AND PRESENTERS

6. IT WAS THROUGH ITS SECOND GENERATION THAT BORDADOS OLIVEIRA COLLECTED THE AWARD FOR THE ACCESSORIZE CATEGORY, GIVEN TO RITA OLIVEIRA BY THE CEO OF SELETIVA MODA, MANUEL SERRÃO

THE OSCARS FOR TEXTILE INNOVATION This time iTechStyle Awards were held without glamour or audience applause. However, there is nothing able to stop the awards that are a sort of Oscars for the textile sector and that distinguish the wonders of innovation every year. “They are the reflex of companies’ skills and the value of the sector, which is one of the basis of our industry” said by videoconference the Secretary of State for Economics, João Correia Neves. Amongst the 33 finalists selected from innovation showcases presented in MODTISSIMO editions the juri awarded iTechStyle 2020 Awards to the following companies: TMG, Têxteis Penedo, Bordados Oliveira, Flexfelina, Brandbias and A Sampaio

5. THE GOVERNMENT DIDN’T WANT TO MISS THE OPPORTUNITY OF ASSOCIATING TO THE EVENT, EVEN IF BY VIDEO. JOÃO CORREIA NEVES, THE DEPUTY SECRETARY OF STATE AND ECONOMICS, HIGHLIGHTED THE IMPORTANCE OF TEXTILE INNOVATION

10. IT WAS PRECISELY IN THE SUSTAINABILITY AREA THAT THE JURY AWARDED BRANDBIAS, GIVING THE FINISHED PRODUCT PRIZE TO THE MULTIFUNCTIONAL JACK O’BAG COAT, WHICH WAS DELIVERED TO GONÇALO SERRA

9. THE IMMOVABLE AUDIENCE WAS FORMED BY ANOTHER GREEN CIRCLE SHOWCASE, AN ADVANCED EXHIBITION OF SUSTAINABILITY IN WHICH OUR TCI EQUALLY STANDS OUT IN THE INTERNATIONAL FOREFRONT OF THE SECTOR


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4. SANDRA PINHEIRO, FROM TÊXTEIS PENEDO, WENT ON STAGE TO RECEIVE THE AWARD FOR PRODUCT CATEGORY FROM THE HAND OF CITEVE’S PRESIDENT

3. WINNER IN THE FABRICS’ CATEGORY, TMG WAS REPRESENTED AT THE HIGHEST LEVEL BY THE CEO MANUEL GONÇALVES, WHO SHOWS OFF THE AWARDS BEFORE THE CAMERAS AND FLASHES

8. IN THE LAUNCHING OF THE CEREMONY ANTÓNIO BRAZ COSTA HIGHLIGHTED THE EXTRAORDINARY PATH OF INNOVATION AND THE INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION FOR INNOVATION OF PORTUGUESE TEXTILE COMPANIES

7. AWARDED WITH SMART, THE PRIZE FOR THE SMARTEST PRODUCT, IPARASOL AND FLEXFELINA WERE REPRESENTED BY MIGUEL MALHEIRO WHO DIDN’T HIDE HIS PRIDE FOR THIS DISTINCTION

12. JOÃO MENDES, FROM A SAMPAIO & FILHOS, EXHIBITS THE AWARD FOR THE BEST MATERIAL IN THE CATEGORY SUSTAINABILITY, HIGHLIGHTING THE IMPORTANCE AND INTERNATIONAL PRESTIGE OF THE PRIZE

11. SELETIVA MODA, THE PROMOTER OF ITECHSTYLE AWARDS, ALONGSIDE WITH CITEVE, WAS PHYSICALLY PRESENT AND WAS REPRESENTED BY ITS HIGHEST RANK

13. FILLED WITH THE BEST EXAMPLES OF INNOVATION AND SUSTAINABILITY, CITEVE’S ATRIUM TRANSFORMED INTO THE IDEAL SETTING FOR THE SORT OF STUDIO THAT WAS ASSEMBLED FOR THE BROADCASTING OF THE CEREMONY


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RIOPELE RECEIVES AICEP'S BEST INVESTMENT AWARD AICEP awarded the textile company Riopele with the Best Investment Award, highlighting a turnover that reached 76 million euros, with 98% of the company’s total production being exported in 2020. The announcement was made during the Annual Conference of the agency, led by Luís Castro Henriques. The opening session was attended by the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Augusto Santos Silva, who identified three priorities for a “quick economic recovery”. Internationalization, exports, and attractiveness are, according to the government official, the areas to bet.

2.500

tons were JF Almeida's CO2 savings, tanks to waste separation and effluents discharge

TINTEX IS A REFERENCE FOR GOOD INNOVATION

For the AEP Foundation, Tintex Textiles is an exemplary success case for R&D and innovation, which motivated a visit to the company within the scope of the 2030 Challenge project – Knowledge and Technology Transfer. The goal is to highlight the link between companies and the academy in the transfer of knowledge and technology. Luís Miguel Ribeiro, president of the AEP Foundation, considers Tintex Textiles a “reference in sharing scientific and technological knowledge between education institutions and companies, and in the dissemination of good practices”.t

JPG ALREADY HAS ISO9001 CERTIFICATION João Pereira Guimarães has just obtained the ISO9001 certification, an international recognition that attests to the ability to trace all the company's products and processes, from the yarn to the final knitted fabric. A great competitive advantage, guarantees the administrator Carolina Guimarães, bearing in mind that JPG works mainly with highly technical products, such as the Velcros used in power tools, which require this certification. “More than anything else, this certification opens up a wider range of possibilities for us. It was something that had been in the company's plans for a long time. The pandemic forced us to

slow down, so we took advantage of this period to start the project, which now, after a year and a half, it’s successfully completed", explains the administrator. A process that forced a complete renovation of the company's organizational structures, from human resources to the industrial sector itself. The goal is to be constantly improving, and gradually reduce errors. To obtain the certification, JPG had the support of ATP – The Portuguese Textile and Clothing Association, within the scope of the PME Training project – Implementation of Management Systems, in partnership with Pámesa Consultores.t

TAJISERVI INTRODUCES NEW PULSEID AUTOMATION SOFTWARE A supplier of equipment to the textile companies, Tajiservi is launching PulseID, an automation software for textile equipment. Aimed at automating the workflow of equipment such as laser, embroidery and direct printing machines, PulseID can provide a detailed analysis of orders and production status. Embroidery and direct on-piece digital and laser printing options are also available. The new work tool also improves the quality of life of the employees, the company states.

"It is necessary to train inside the companies and theoretical training is not enough"" Susana Serrano Acatel CEO

PORTUGUESE TEXTILE INDUSTRY ON THE UN SUSTAINABILITY AWARD

DIGIDELTA STRENGTHENS EUROPEAN EXPORTER STATUS Digidelta has just strengthened its position in European exports by integrating the Registered Exporter System. Registration allows exporters to issue their own certifications in the commercial documents. In a statement, the company that owns Decal explained that "the system that certificates the origin of goods has been in place since 2017". This regime “brings together

in a database companies established in the European Union, which are exempt from customs duties and quotas in commercial exchanges” inside the territory. It also attests to the quality of European raw materials and highlights features such as fire resistance, anti-slip, anti-microbial and control of chemical substances present in Decal’s products. The Portuguese company was

also recently distinguished with the seal “Cotec 2021 Innovative Status”, which reinforces the innovative aspect of the ranges of Decal, Digidelta's own brand of consumables for large-format digital printing machines. PVC Free, monomeric and polymeric vinyls for printing and laminating in visual communication, interior decoration and labelling are some innovative examples. t

Based on the Portuguese production of companies such as the Valérius Group and Crispim Abreu, the House of Baukjen was recognized as a leader in sustainable fashion, having been awarded the Climatic Neutrality Now award by the United Nations. It is the first time that this global award is given to a fashion company, and will be a Portuguese woman, Ana Carneiro, the leader of the brand's sustainability program, to receive the award during COP26, the United Nations Conference on Climate Change, to be held in Glasgow. More than 80% of all the House of Baukjen's clothes are made in Portugal, so the brand attributes much of their success to the factories with whom they work in Portugal.


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OPINION ONE PRODUCT, ONE STORY! Jorge Pereira CEO of Pipaco and ATP’s Board Member

THE RRP AND THE COMPANIES Mário Vidal Genésio Engineer

We are currently going through a worldwide economic crisis and it’s crucial for companies to fight it. They shall take advantage of the weakening of global competition due to the conjuncture that already existed and that was drastically sharpened by Covid-19 but also through the creation of strategies to value the product either by its added value, or its history and influence it may bring in the target market and segment. Sometimes the country of origin in some markets or market segments is not irrelevant, as the connotation associated, even if unconsciously, may be very positive or very negative. The prestige is gained or maintained for being a synonym of tradition and perceived quality or is lost for being connotated by historical reasons and usual low quality. For other markets the brands’ features are essential to the creation of brand value. The price factor will always be the Archilles heel for many products and markets. Brands need to stand out from each other so as to conquer real credibility and authenticity, thus managing to subsist in such a global world where the speed of change is more and more frequent. Creative brands are using Storytelling more and more so as to present themselves to the market in an irreverent way, making the consumer identify with brand culture or even brand organization.

It is known that the RRP – recovery and resilience plan - is targeted to the public administration which will keep the largest amount of money, 12 out of 16 million euros. However, companies will also be able to capitalize through the products and services they manage to provide to the public sector. They must be competitive and innovative in their products and services so as to be chosen in the competitions that are to be launched. They may be related to infrastructures, which will account for 760 million and will feature highways again, namely accesses to already existing ones, buildings for the health area, energetic efficiency, etc. The investment of almost 400 million euros in hydric management returns and is particularly relevant for the supply of populations and agriculture. The investment in renewable sources of energy is also privileged, namely hydrogen production and distribution network. The investment

Using a story rich in values may weaken other less positive factors, mainly when we value the preservation of our planet resources, the collaborators of our organizations or any other strategy that show through A+B that it is worth to dream with the philosophy of the story conveyed by the recently acquired good. And admiration grows. This story isn’t only important for the person who tells it but also to the brand’s collaborators and clients. It ends up strengthening the connection and loyalty that all organizations fight to conquer, cultivating a group of supporters that end up sharing and promoting the same story. This objective is attainable through the human emotions that are purposefully subjacent to it. Empathy and true emotional bonds are generated but we only manage them when we understand our clients’ thoughts and feelings. The most important is to be able to build a story that is true, exclusive and that conveys the true values represented by the brand. Who has never questioned oneself about how a project, an organization or brand emerged? Who has never wondered about the unknown imaginary beyond a success? Let’s tell our brands’ stories and let’s make a difference. Once upon a time... t

package in the digitalization of public administration, accounting for 580 million euros, opens good perspectives. 5 million euros will be directed to support company development. Around 1550 million come from Banco Português de Fomento and will be used to capitalize companies. This amount will be boosted by other mechanisms of the forthcoming 2030 Programme, so it is believed that much more money will be available to such an essential part of corporate life. There are still more than 1350 million euros to support Innovation in companies and the proximity to universities, polytechnic institutes and technological centres with common structuring and integrating strategies. The more than 700 million euros aimed at companies’ decarburization aim to replace the use of fossil fuels by renewable energies, energetic efficiency, the adoption of circular economy and bioeconomy and the reduction of corporate environmental footprint, thus renewing productive proces-

ses. It also aims to open doors to new businesses in a country with so much forest and an underexplored exclusive maritime area. There is also a considerable amount of investment in companies’ digital transition, namely in the usage of the internet of things and cloud computing, in which everything is connected in high-speed data networks, towards the usage of artificial intelligence in companies. Amongst the areas of intervention of RPP there is the Qualification of Human Resources, counting with 630 million euros, another economy choke, as it is known there is a lack of skilled labour force to face the new challenges that companies are going through. It is clear that the RPP is very welcome and there is great expectation in its execution. Several contests have already opened and many others are to be launched. It won’t solve all the problems but it will be a great help if companies know how to take advantage of the opportunities available. t


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