N U M B E R 8 D EC E M B E R 2 02 0
I N T E R N AT I O N A L JOSÉ ARMINDO FERRAZ
DIRECTOR: MANUEL SERRÃO
“TRADE SHOWS ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT FOR THE GROWTH OF ANY COMPANY” P8&9
RIOPELE'S NEW FINISH FIGHTS VIRUSES AND BACTERIA P 10
MODTISSIMO HIGHLIGHTS THE VITALITY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
MORE THAN A BRAND, PLAY UP IS A LIFESTYLE AND A ROLE MODEL
P 12 &13
THE BILL, PLEASE
TÊXTEIS EVARISTO SAMPAIO WANTS TO PROTECT THE HERITAGE
PORTUGUESE TEXTILES HAVE THE MOST ADVANTAGE IN THE EU
FIBRENAMICS AND INOVA WILL DEVELOP FIBRES FROM MILK
100 95 75
25 5 0
Anuncio T Internacional 235x295(241x301)cm ER 2021 quarta-feira, 13 de janeiro de 2021 10:30:58
n EDITORIAL By: Manuel Serrão
THE FLOWER OF RECOVERY
PORTUGUESE TEXTILES HAVE THE MOST ADVANTAGE IN THE EU
My Mar xists classmates, back when I attended college, used to say that it is often necessary to take a step back in order to take two steps forward. I never belonged, nor do I belong to that political sec tor, but that notion came to me when Selec tiva Moda decided to postpone for a month the next edition of Modtissimo. Because sometimes it is also necessary to take a step forward to avoid hav ing to take two steps back. By setting its dates to March 10 and 11, one month after the prev iously announced dates, Modtissimo 57 is basically postponing to be able to take place. Making use of popular wisdom, it is also wor th thinking that a trade show in the hand is wor th two in the bush. Perhaps, this is why the image of the recovery we want for March is not a bird, but a flower.
The Portuguese textile industry should take advantage of the economic recovery to fulfill – in the European markets – a large part of the imports so far originating from non-EU countries. The recommendation, as an incentive, comes from a study by the Strategy and Studies Office (GEE) of the Portuguese Ministry of Economy, which by the excellent positioning of Portuguese companies, determines that “Portugal has the greatest comparative advantage in the European Union”, pointing to a market that represents more than 40 billion euros. Activities in which Portugal has a clear competitive advantage over its European competitors, and can therefore more easily capture opportunities for increased demand in EU markets, replacing suppliers from outside the EU.
In the case of textiles, the study states that the EU market already absorbs about half of the Portuguese exports, and that in this sector “Portugal has the greatest comparative advantage in the European Union. In the short-term, it can seize the opportunity to supply non-specialized Community markets, replacing the respective non-EU suppliers”. The study also highlights that, within the EU, Portugal is the fifth largest exporter in value – after Italy, Spain, Germany and France –, and that the set of potential customers in the intra-Community market, comprising 22 countries, so far bought around 42 billion euros from non-community countries. In other words, “a value almost 15 times higher than all the Portuguese exports”.t
Property: ATP - Associação Têxtil e de Vestuário de Portugal NIF: 501070745 Editor: Paulo Vaz Director: Manuel Serrão Adress: Rua Fernando Mesquita, 2785, Ed. CITEVE 4760-034 Vila Nova de Famalicão Telephone number: +351 252 303 030 Email: email@example.com Subscription e Advertising: Cláudia Azevedo Lopes Telephone number: +351 969 658 043 - mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ERC Provisional Registration: 126725 Circulation: 1000 copies Print Shop: Grafedisport Adress: Estrada Consiglieri Pedroso, 90 - Casal Santa Leopoldina - 2730-053 Barcarena Legal Deposit Number: 451405/19 Editorial Status: Available in: http://tjornalinternational. com/editorial-statute/
A THE BILL, PLEASE Casas do Côro
Largo do Côro 6430-081 Marialva – Meda
Starters Bread with figs; homemade breadsticks with herbs; and asparagus soup with black garlic oil Entrées Codfish Deserts Toucinho de céu and chocolate cake Drinks Wine Casas do Côro Reserva 2018, white and red; Porto Vintage 1982 Ramos Pinto
JOÃO PAULO SAMPAIO
“When I grow up I want to stay in the company” was never his style, but his mission has been set when he was still a child. He started in 1985 on the financial and industrial side, and in 2015, with his father's retirement, he took over the entire management. Now, divides his time with the Casas do Côro tourist project, whose management shares with his wife - “Carmen is the pillar of the family” - and with their five children. Pedro, 27, studied hotel management, which came in handy; Francisca, 25, took journalism and wants to get a master’s at Católica; Joana, 23, has finished Sociology; Rita, 18, is in marketing. The youngest, Rosarinho, 15, likes to cook, and is already the famous one in the family. She was a finalist on the TV-show Masterchef Júnior and dreams to attend the Basque Culinary Centre
THE PRIORITY IS TO PROTECT THE INDUSTRY AND THE HERITAGE
PHOTO:ANTÓNIO MOREIRA GONÇALVES
54 YEARS OLD TÊXTEIS EVARISTO SAMPAIO ADMINISTRATOR
Even though he was the guest, João Paulo Sampaio insisted in receiving T Jornal in the Casas do Côro complex, an exquisite environmental tourism enterprise he created with his wife, Carmen, taking advantage of a cluster of granite houses in the centre of the Historic Village of Marialva. An oasis of charm, class and good taste, which he now seeks to replicate in Pocinho, Douro, with the Casas da Linha Férrea. No wonder, therefore, the demand from people everywhere, with the entrepreneurs having recently added the wine tourism component to the project. The wines, also of great quality and refinement, are sold in the store at Largo do Côro, where the comfortable blankets Lordelo, from the Têxteis Evaristo Sampaio brand – the other family business, now in its fourth generation –, are also a great success. In times of pandemic and restrictions, we can clearly see the different enthusiasm with which João Paulo Sampaio addresses the two businesses. The textile company, which manufactures Papa blankets, a very traditional style of blankets, is one of the historical wool factories in Guarda. “Even to-
day, we are kind of the keepers of this product, which we have been doing continuously for 70 years, starting with my great-grandfather, Manuel Cunha Sampaio”, explains João Paulo. Located in the village of Trinta, and taking advantage of the strength of the Mondego River waters, the Pateiro Hydroelectric Power Plant supplied electricity to the factory at a time when even the city of Guarda didn’t have electricity itself. It was only in the 60s that his father, Evaristo Sampaio, “took the company out of the river”, building in the village a modern industrial unit that he christened as Têxteis Evaristo Sampaio. The company currently has the capacity to spin, on average, six tons of carded wool per day, and alongside the manufacture of the Lordelo's blankets and Papa blankets, it also supplies various rug and sock manufacturers. To the question of when or how he can resume business after the pandemic, João Paulo Sampaio answers with another question: “Who am I to know? It means living day-to-day and facing difficulties”, he explains, saying that, despite everything, he
never had to furlough workers, and that the company was still chosen “in three or four public tenders to supply blankets to hospitals”. On the other hand, in Italy, where he usually leads public tenders, “it is zero. Zero!" Now, the hope is that the recovery will come as soon as possible, "in order to protect the industry and the heritage". The factory, which in the year 2000 employed more than a thousand people, now has 40 employees. João Paulo’s wife, Carmen, is the designer, and his sister Filipa is his right-hand woman, also taking over the commercial direction. The blankets for comfort and decoration are a prestigious product, but not a basic necessity. And they lost demand with the appearance of industrial threads, quilts, duvets or, more recently, fleece knitwear. In addition to the own brand Lordelo - which already has socks in its portfolio - Têxteis Evaristo Sampaio has also manufactured for Ralph Lauren, El Corte Inglès or distribution chains such as Eroski and Biedronka (Poland). t
MÖM(E) DISTINGUISHED IN JUNIOR DESIGN AWARDS Möm(e) was distinguished with the bronze medal at the Junior Design Awards, given by the British magazine Junior Design, in the “Best Children’s Eco Fashion Brand” category. With this new distinction in the curriculum, Möm(e) now hopes to take firmer steps into internationalization, especially in the United Kingdom, country of origin of the Junior Design Awards. “We hope that this recognition opens new doors for us in the UK, where we already work, but would like to increase our presence”, explains Inês Camaño Garcia, the brand's mentor and designer.
"More than 50% of brands are already looking for organic or recycled fabrics" Carlos Azevedo Troficolor’s Commercial Director
SOMELOS DEVELOPS SOFTWARE TO REACH CLIENTS DURING CONFINMENT Somelos Digi is the name of the digital application developed by the Somelos group to maintain proximity with the more than two thousand customers who contact the fabric producer each season. “We were the first in the world to present a shirt fabric collection for men, women and children through a digital application, made by us from scratch, and adapted to this market specific needs”, says Paulo Melo, the group’s administrator. “The visits are organized by the team, scheduled with the client, and the process of showing the collection is recreated. Our salesman listen and answer to requests in real time”, describes Paulo Melo.
LIPACO RENEWS EQUIPMENT AND IT’S BACK IN THE GAME Lipaco, a sewing thread manufacturer, used the slowdown in production to finish the installation of new equipment, in an investment of around 1.8 million euros. After having experienced a 25% drop in business, the company is again working at full capacity. The dyeing and finishing sectors were in the centre of this renovation. “We were already making investments, and reaching a stage where they were practically ready to be put in place, so we took advantage of this slowdown to carry out the reorganization”, explains the company administrator, who in addition to new machines, is also investing in updating the infrastructures. With the update of the production, and the development processes, the company wants to open its catalogue to new products and business areas. “The new machines will allow an optimized performance in terms of speed, quality and variety”, adds the company administrator, who over the last few years has invested in innovative fibres, such as reflective threads made from glass. All happening at a time when Li-
paco is slowly returning to its normal activity. “We never stopped, but we felt the effects of the pandemic like all other companies. In our case, it represented a business drop between 25 and 30% ”. At this point, all those difficulties seem to be a thing of the past, with the company producing at 100% again. “We are working at full capacity. If the new machines were already operating, we would
produce even more”, says the manager, who, despite the good moment, prefers not to embark on exaggerated optimisms: “it may be a peak. Before the holidays, it is normal to have more orders. Regarding exports, we are working as usual, and in the domestic market there is already a lot of movement. However, everything is very uncertain, nobody can afford to make predictions ”, he states. t
FIBRENAMICS AND INOVA WILL DEVELOP FIBRES FROM MILK Fibrenamics, University of Minho’s R&D platform, and INOVA (Azores Institute for Technological Innovation), have just presented a research project that aims to develop a casein fibre from the Azores’ milk. The Milkfibre project will develop processes for obtaining and functionalizing milk fibres, for applications in the textile, food and health areas. With a funding of 300 thousand euros from the Azores 2020, an estimated duration of three years and a team of 10 researchers, the Milkfibre
project wants to develop casein fibres from non-food milk produced in the Azores, and its main goal is to apply the fibres obtained from milk waste in various areas, such as textiles, food, and health, among others. “There is a huge potential yet to be discovered in these materials that play such an important role in the region’s economy. This is a new way of cherishing the milk sector, contributing to a more sustainable use of by-products, which can bring more value to the sector and to the so-called circular
economy”, explains INOVA Director João Carlos Nunes, Scientific. “From a technological perspective, new processes will be explored for obtaining and functionalizing milk fibre, both at the macro scale and at the nano/micro scale. From the perspective of the product, it is planned to boost projects by transferring knowledge to the business fabric. At the same time, there will be a wide dissemination of the project's results to the general society”, explains Raul Fangueiro, Fibrenamics Coordinator.t
SALSA WANTS TO REDUCE WATER USAGE UP TO 90% Reducing water consumption from 30 to 90% is one of Salsa’s goals in the run for environmental sustainability. Great ambitions showed by the Portuguese jeans brand, which wants to be number one in Europe. For that, Salsa – a specialist in denim pants whose name comes from the Latin dance style that was very popular in the 1980s, when the brand was born –, is hoping to increase its online sales. At the brand’s factory, where all models continue to be designed and manufactured, more than 100 prototypes are normally developed in the search for the perfect fit. After that, the jeans are sold for more than 30 markets where the brand is present today. On his way to its thirstiest birthday and now in the hands of Sonae, Salsa presents itself as the best denim brand in Europe, and that is precisely why it wants to assert itself as a European leader, supported by innovation and sustainability, and using online sales as leverage. t
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33 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE IN ASSEMBLING EVENTS AND EXHIBITIONS:
n INTERVIEW José Armindo Ferraz Is the CEO of Inarbel, a company that currently has four distinct business vectors: its own children's clothing brands (A. J. and Dr. Kid), the private label, and a new bet on the health segment, with the Skylab brand. He holds 80% of the company's capital - the remaining 20% is shared equally between his two nephews - and risks saying that, within three years, Inarbel's size will have increased by 50%. Exports will continue to be the company's focus, but José Armindo Ferraz hopes that the domestic market will also grow - even because his company's production in the health field (all types of personal protective equipment) allows to replace imports
"MY AMBITION IS TO REACH 15 MILLION EUROS IN 2022"
t was due to the presence in international fairs that Inarbel reached export dimension, now responsible for the majority of the company’s annual revenues. After the period of radical confinement in recent months, José Armindo Ferraz is impatient to return ‘to the road’. The fairs should be back very soon. Is this return important?
Obviously. Tradeshows are extremely important for the development of any company. In fact, the development of all my business areas takes place abroad. In the beginning, the activity was much centred on the domestic market: 25, 30 years ago, customers came from abroad and placed their orders, occupying all the companies’ capacity. So, the entrepreneurs became accustomed to working from home. When I started my professional activity in the textile sector, I thought that the company should go abroad - that was where our success would be. We had about 60 people at the time, and today we have 240 because the fairs made us grow. It was then that the business developed?
We created new business areas, reached new customers with more added value, and we diversified: at the time, one or two customers took our production for a whole year, which was a big risk. My business vision is to have many customers, from several countries. Hence the importance of fairs?
They are essential. However, the entrepreneurs cannot think that all it takes is to attend a fair once, and the deal is done. You need to be persistent: customers like to see a company, a brand, present more than once. The first time is to establish contact, the second to enter the stand, the third to touch the product, the fourth is when they sit down and start talking.
PHOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO
Inarbel has a new project . Is it a challenge that started as a response to the Covid-19 pandemic?
Exactly, it all started there. The pandemic was something that no one expected. We could not have anticipated a year ago that at this time we would be producing hospital products, certified by CITEVE, Infarmed and other certi-
fying entities, such as the Spanish ITEX. It is a new area for us, but we are already producing for Portugal, Spain and France. That is, we are already in the market, we know what we want, and we’re going to win. A new business area that exists for half a year. How much did you invest?
I delivered the spring/summer collection, and when the winter production was star ting, there was a drop in orders. In March, everything was happening very fast, so I decided to give the employees a week of holyday, but it was not enough. Since January, I had been considering mov ing towards the medical field. I started to get worried – and began working ‘26 hours a day ’. I had to send around 40 employees for partial furlough, and another 47 went home to take care of their children when schools closed. A situation that would have to drag on for two, three months, and that would affec t all workers in the factory. I had to get around this situation, foc us on the solution, and not the problem. It was then that this ‘Covid business’ came to me. I teamed up with an agent I have in the Basque Country, and we started planning as early as Febr uary: I was told that the Basque Country was (well before Por tugal) hav ing great difficulties finding hospital products. At that time, the products were arriv ing from Asia and were real bad. I realized that this was our chance. I used my contac ts in Portugal - I was ATP’s director for 12 years and I have many contacts - I made samples, made the first prototypes, and sent them to the Basque Country. They told me : "this is what we want". I star ted to work direc tly with the Spanish State, with the communities of Andalusia, the Basque Country, Catalonia. The first production was all for Spain.
All of it. I immediately ended the furlough in April: two hundred thousand ar ticles were ordered. After those came more orders, and in a shor t time we were working at 100%. I can say that last May – normally a weak month – was Inarbel’s most pro fitable month, ever. I employed numerous micro -companies in the region, many of them depending on Inditex, which had blocked all orders. At that time, the Por tugal 2020 Cov id-19 measures appeared, and we decided to apply. We had to do a projec t in 60 days, to benefit from a suppor t that seemed very interesting : 80% non-refundable, with an increase of another 15%
if it fulfilled all requirements. We did the projec t in one week, working day and night. Inarbel’s projec t was one of the first to enter IAPMEI, and was the first to be finished. I managed to develop a projec t of around 400 thousand euros in one month and 20 days, including the purchase of machines, and without stopping produc tion. Do you think you will close 2020 with a higher turnover than in 2019?
I wouldn't be so optimistic. The problem that affected the traditional areas of the business is not over yet - it can become even more serious. Production for 2021 has not yet returned to the 2019 numbers. The recovery is slow hence the need to invest in this new business area, which has to be strengthened, because it allows us to balance the company. If I earn the same as last year, between 8 and 10 million euros, I will be pleased. Two or three years from now, when everything improves, I want to reach another level... Which will be…?
With the brand that we created for the medical sector, Skylab, my ambition is to reach 15 million euros in 2022. Not in 2021?
2021 is going to be very complicated. Inarbel had three business areas so far: the brands Dr. Kid and A.J. and the private label. Now there will be one more, Skylab. How much did each weigh in turnover, and what will the new distribution look like going forward?
So far, the private label weighed 60%, and our brands weighed 40%. From now on, the private label should decrease to 30 or 35%, the own brands to 30%. The rest should come from Skylab. We will be very close to 15 million in 2022. When was the company created?
It is a family business created in 1984 by my parents. I arrived at the company 20 years ago, at a time when we had 70 workers, and a turnover of around 1 million euros, all coming from private label. My parents created the A.J. brand for the Portuguese market, then I created Dr. Kid, which was launched from the United States - I wanted to bring the brand from the outside in. At the time, all that came from outside was good. In the past 15 to 20 years, the textile industry has changed completely. In some ways, all that mattered was abroad .
It was important to expose oursel-
ves to the world at the trade shows - I did them all with Associação Selectiva Moda, which, together with ATP – Portugal’s Textile and Clothing Association, organizes all very well, and needs to be praised for that.
the questions of
How much do exports weigh in turnover?
They weigh 90%. We export to 24 countries: Spain, France, England, Scotland, Germany, Italy, Austria, Belgium, Switzerland, Denmark, Greece, Ukraine, Russia, United Arab Emirates, China, United States, Mexico, Colombia, Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic... Are any of these markets reopening already?
The most complicated markets at the moment are the North American and the South American. In Europe, I notice that Spain, Italy and England are already opening. How do you assess the State's response to the pandemic?
The state is, and very well, betting on the manufac turing industry. Without this help it would cer tainly be much more diffic ult. The aid with the furlough and with investments was very beneficial. Now, I ask: with the quality of what is produced here, does it make sense to continue to buy abroad? Does it make sense to spend 250 million euros on Asian supplies for the medical sec tor? Especially because we have another concern: the circ ular economy. It is necessary to give work to Por tuguese companies, through all the transforming sec tors. The support from the European Union is coming. What impact can it have?
I hope that the European Union’s great funding is well-used. On what?
In tradable goods companies that generate employment. However, I'm afraid that money will be misused. Our money, which can be used to generate employment, must be subjec ted to greater control. Do you believe that , when the pandemic is over, the tradable goods industry will continue to be the European focus, or it will opt for lower Asian prices again?
It is a difficult question to answer, but at the same time very easy: people want what is local. The European Union should follow this trend: buy what is European. We are the best at what we do, we have everything that is good. This virus has brought a lot of reser vations about what comes from Asia. t
António Cunha Orfama Sales Manager
We are living exceptional times. Do you think that the Portuguese textile industry is facing the biggest challenge ever?
I think so. We are facing a challenge that is incomparably more difficult than all the previous ones. However, we have to turn it around, and once again we will succeed because we are the best. What was the solution found by the company to remain competitive?
Being smart. And not everyone is born with this ability. The key is to bring together the right partners, and seek to respond to the market’s opportunities and needs.
Paulo Neves Coltec managing partner
Was it difficult to start producing technical and innovative equipment for the hospital sector?
Of course, it wasn't easy. However, the most important thing was to find suitable suppliers, so we could do what the country and the world were looking for. Luckily, we did, and I think we are on the right track. How do you see the future of the textile sector? In your case, with the new unit, are you better equipped and prepared to respond to new challenges?
We have to be prepared. This is a resilient sector, able to react, and therefore has to be prepared for what the world needs.
HINDU DEBUTS COATING THAT STOPS COVID-19 TRANSMISSION Hindu – Technical Textiles has just launch an antiviral solution that inactivates the new Coronavirus within a few minutes. It is a coating that takes advantage of the most advanced chemical technology applied in finishing knitwear, fabrics and non-woven fabrics. Called Protect By Hindu, “this innovative finish can be used in masks, protective gloves, gowns and all types of clothing, and has a proven effectiveness after several washes”, says the company, adding that the new coating is “capable of inhibiting viruses and bacteria, including the new Coronavirus, up to 99.9% ”.
INÊS AMORIM AT PARIS FASHION WEEK
"We must continue to invest on the factors that are critical for achieving success: high quality goods and services, technicality and innovation, and fast and flexible response" The Portuguese brand Ernest W. Baker, co-founded by the duo Inês Amorim and Reid Baker, debuted on the official calendar of the Paris Fashion Week, which this year was developed mainly in digital format. “This is what we have always worked to achieve because it is a very large audience. The entire fashion industry sees and pays attention to Paris,” said Inês Amorim. This is the first time that a Portuguese brand makes it to the official calendar of this event, walking alongside brands like Louis Vuitton, Ungaro or Hermès. t
RIOPELE: NEW FINISH FIGHTS VIRUSES AND BACTERIA It’s called ‘ViralRepel’ and its Riopele’s new finish, which prevents and fights viruses and bacteria in textile products. With an efficiency of around 99%, resists household washings, is environmentally friendly, and can be used on any type of textile fibres. “ViralRepel is a finish that prevents viruses and bacteria to get attached to our articles. In addition, it also fights bad odours, which means greater hygiene”, explains Ana Vaz, Riopele market manager. Developed with technology made of polymers linked to silver ions, which accelerate the deactivation of viruses and bacteria, ViralRepel is also dermatologically tested. “The products used are not aggressive to the skin and can be used with
complete safety in underwear or pyjamas “, explains Riopele’s market manager. Ana Vaz also clarified that the products used in the finish “respect the Oeko-Tex and Bluesign guidelines, besides being certified by the EPA [Environmental Protection Agency]”. ViralRepel is also resistant to multiple household washes, and can be used effectively on any type of textile fibres. The international fair Fabric Days, which took place from September 1st to 3rd in Munich, was chosen by Riopele to present this new finish. “Customers were very interested, mainly because we are talking about the German market, which is a pioneer in combining sustainability with innovation”, concludes Ana Vaz. t
GERMAN INNOVATION AWARD FOR RDD’S TENCEL PADDING The German Innovation Awards distinguished RDD’s Tencel Padding with an award on the Materials and Surfaces category. A very special recognition since the contest doesn’t work on applications: the products and materials are selected by the organization itself. The innovative product developed by the Valérius group R&D company presents an exclusive solution that uses artificial and ecologically responsible botanical fibres. The German Innovation Awards highlights precisely the
exclusivity, breathability, comfort and innovative character of the product, which uses sustainable artificial botanical fibres – 100% Tencel ™ – and jersey fabric produced with textile scraps of the Valérius group, to which RDD belongs. “Tencel Padding is really innovative since what exists in the market as filling is essentially synthetic fibres”, summarizes Elsa Parente, RDD’s CEO and Business Development Manager, adding that this product brought nothing but good surprises.
“It started with the High Tech Award at the Munich Fabric Start. Then we received notification that it had been nominated for the German Innovation Awards, and we were asked to send the product. Last February, came the award”, tells Elsa Parente. “We have a new collection of knitwear already made with this padding, and it is also being used in collections for well-known international brands from countries like Italy, Germany or Sweden”, stated the CEO.t
Mário Jorge Machado ATP President
NIKE AND AMORIM COME TOGETHER TO RECYCLE
DECENIO ONLINE STORE REACHES (ALMOST) THE WHOLE WORLD
It's called “Amorim-Nike”, and is a new product with a very low carbon footprint that results from the combination of recycled sneakers and Portuguese cork. The product is already being developed to be sold in the USA, France and Germany. “Nike shreds the old sneakers, separates the textile part from the soles and foam, sends the materials to us, and we mix them with cork", says António Rios Amorim, chairman of the Board of Directors of Corticeira Amorim.
The Portuguese brand Decenio – from the textile group Cães de Pedra – launched a new online store, which is accessible in almost 100 countries spread throughout the world. In addition to expanding potential customers of the brand, which currently only has physical stores in Portugal, the platform also seeks to simplify the purchase and navigation process for all users. At the moment, the new online platform it's introducing its new Autumn/Winter collection, entitled ‘New In’.
thousand meters of fabric is Riopele's monthly production capacity
CARJOR INVESTS IN NEW AND FASTER LOOMS In addition to quality, efficiency is the other permanent mantra in Carjor’s activity, the children’s clothing manufacturer that exports 100% of its productions, and every year reinvests a good part of the company’s revenue in new equipment, on research and in planning, in order to keep doing better and faster. In this cycle of permanent renovation, two new looms have just been installed, while two others are on the way. Faster and more agile, the new looms, “are like the difference between running and walking”, exemplifies the CEO, Honorato Sousa, whose aim is not to manufacture more, but more efficiently.
2.THE SECRETARY OF STATE FOR INTERNATIONALIZATION WAS ONE OF THE MEMBERS OF THE GOVERNMENT WHO VISITED THE PORTUGUESE SALON
PHOTOSYNTHESIS by: Mariana d'Orey
1. THE OUTDOOR RECEPTION AND THE PRIORITY GIVEN TO ALL HYGIENE AND SAFETY RULES SET THE TONE FOR MODTISSIMO 56TH EDITION.
7. AFTER VISITING THE STANDS, THE POLITICIAN GAVE SEVERAL INTERVIEWS TO THE JOURNALISTS PRESENT
MODTISSIMO HIGHLIGHTS THE VITALITY OF THE PORTUGUESE TEXTILE INDUSTRY MODTISSIMO 56, the only fair to be held on the Iberian Peninsula since the beginning of the pandemic, and one of the few to be held across Europe, highlighted the dynamic and vitality of the Portuguese textile sector. In addition to the exhibitors’ mass participation, the Portuguese trade show also registered a slight increase in the number of foreign buyers compared to past editions. And everyone was happy!
6. THE DEPUTY SECRETARY OF STATE AND ECONOMY, JOÃO CORREIA NEVES, WAS VERY INTERESTED IN THE ADVANCES OF TECHNICAL TEXTILES
12. AND SPEAKING ABOUT CREATIVITY... T JORNAL FOUND THE MOST FASHIONABLE MASK. LÚCIA GOMES WAS THE WINNER
11. SUSTAINABILITY CONTINUES TO BE A PRIORITY FOR THE SECTOR, CREATIVELY SHOWCASED AT THE GREEN CIRCLE FORUM
4. ADALBERTO ESTAMPARIA PRESENTED NEW SOLUTIONS BASED ON INNOVATION, DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY
3. IN THE MANUFACTURING SECTOR, CONCRETOâ€™S STAND WELCOMED BUYERS FROM SEVERAL EUROPEAN COUNTRIES AND FROM THE UNITED STATES
5. THE NEWLY CREATED BETWEEN PARALELS PRESENTED ITSELF TO THE PUBLIC BY GATHERING SEVERAL SUSTAINABLE FASHION AND LIFESTYLE BRANDS
9. IN THE VARIOUS FORUMS, PREVENTION AND SAFETY MEASURES WERE CONSTANT
10. THE FABRIC FORUM IS ALWAYS ONE OF THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS AND AN EFFECTIVE WAY TO FIND OUT ABOUT THE OFFER AVAILABLE AT THE SALON
8. EURICO BRILHANTE DIAS, SECRETARY OF STATE FOR INTERNATIONALIZATION, GREETS ONE OF THE EXHIBITORS
14. SCUSI WAS PRESENT ONCE AGAIN, EXHIBITING ELEGANT YET COMFORTABLE PIECES PERFECT FOR THE NEW NORMAL
13. DURING THE EVENT, IT WAS ALSO POSSIBLE TO CARRY OUT SEROLOGIC TESTS ON COVID-19. THE PRESIDENT OF ATP WAS ONE OF THOSE TESTED
15. ALSO IN THE FABRIC WING, THE EVENT WAS A TOTAL SUCCESS, AS ONE CAN SEE BY THE COMMOTION AT THE BLOOMATI BY CARVEMA STAND
X MY COMPANY by: Mariana d'Orey
Etfor empresa têxtil, lda Av. Margarida Queiroz 301 4740-438 Forjães
What does it make? Children’s clothing from new-born to age 14 Exports 95% of production. Spain, Germany, Sweden, Italy, the Netherlands and the United States are the best markets Workers 110 Production area 9 thousand m2
EUROPEAN PRODUCTION: TEXTILES WANTS POSITIVE DISCRIMINATION The textile sector wants the Portuguese government to support – near the European Union – the obligation of the 27 to buy, in terms of public purchases, individual protection equipment that incorporates a minimum of 50% of material from the European space. A decision that could open the door for the European industry to reindustrialize itself.
thousand pieces per month is Givec's production capacity
CM SOCKS DEBUTS ONLINE STORE IN CANADA CM Socks debuted a new online store for the Canadian market. The new platform will market Prevent Sprain, the anti-sprain socks that are already patented in 143 countries, and gained space in several high-competition sports. Focused on growing in North America, the company had already established a distribution and marketing unit in Canada at the end of 2019.
"In quality and price, the Portuguese fabrics are ahead of the Italians" Bruno Mineiro Twintex Administrator
“Play Up is more than a brand, it is a lifestyle” Wide areas, modern automatic cutting equipment, and, in the background, a wall painted by the immense sewing line cones in the most varied colours. The sound of sewing machines and the smell of the knits highlights the 32 years dedicated to manufacturing for international reference brands. This is ETFOR, a textile company based in Forjães, Esposende, where the brand Play Up, a family project, was also born. “The creation of an own brand came naturally, following the evolution of our know-how”, explains Bruno Correia, the company’s general director and one of the drivers behind Play Up, together with his siblings Elsa and César. “It was our mother's wish. The brand was born in 2004, after more than ten years of investment. We learned, studied the market, went to international fairs, had many advances and setbacks. However, only in 2014 the brand started to be profitable. In 2018, my sister Susana took the wheel of the creative direction, starting a deep rebranding process”. Graduated in architecture, Susana Correia had only collaborated with Play Up by designing the band’s stands for trade shows. Her involvement with the brand grew organically, to the point where she started to run the design team. Then, the need to transform the brand’s concept awoke: “It was a return to the origins, to mirror what we are in our creations. Our family lives and works in this small village, and has a strong connection to nature. Alongside the factory, my parents always raised animals, and grew vegetables and fruits. We wanted that truth to be reflected in Play Up, which is more than a brand, it is a lifestyle".
Currently, the brand exports 95%: “We are in more than 800 stores worldwide, in addition to the exponential growth of online sales. The months of confinement were the best ever for the brand, and we are going to close 2020 with a much higher sales volume when compared to last year”, reveals Bruno. "We feel that the pandemic has raised attention to many of the values we already advocated", adds Susana. Sustainability, social responsibility, comfort and quality are the pillars of Play Up, which wants to become even more environmentally friendly. Upcycling is another big bet, as is the use of reusable packaging and recycled materials. The rebranding in 2018 was marked by the creation of the Embracing Slow Making concept, a series of collaborations with a new generation of Portuguese artists, whose work has inspired the collections launched since then. “All the partners we work with are Portuguese, and we are also concerned about providing good working conditions for our employees”, adds the general director. Step by step, the brand has grown, both in visibility and within the team. The creative process is done internally, as well as the online marketing and communication strategy. The investment in the B2C channel is one of Play Up's main bets. “We want to continue to grow more consciously, and offer better conditions to the people who work with us. We believe in fair trade, and we will continue to work with local partners”, says Bruno Correia, who also has the ambition of increasing Play Up's presence in Portugal. t
CITEVE CERTIFIES MASKS AT EUROPEAN LEVEL CITEVE is already qualified to certify masks at European level, a process that started when the European Committee for Standardization approved the guide with the manufacturing requirements for Europe. The Portuguese version of the European guide later passed IPQ – Instituto Português da Qualidade, which established the standards and respective certification requirements, a long process of standardization that is now concluded, with CITEVE accredited as a certifying entity.
PORTUGUESE CORK INSIDE THE NEW MAZDA
From technical textiles to smart, sustainable and innovative solutions, the Portuguese textile industry is increasingly present in the automotive sector, as is the case of Mazda’s new 100% electric car, MX-3, whose dashboard uses a cork coating made in Portugal. A natural, sustainable and biodegradable raw material, with acoustic and anti-vibration insulation, supplied by Corticeira Amorim, which helps to reduce the environmental footprint of the new model of the Japanese car brand.
OPINION WHAT FUTURE? Mário Jorge Machado ATP's President
THE NEW NORMAL José Guimarães ATP Board Member
We are entering a new decade, and the next ten years will be filled with certainties and opportunities, which will only become a reality if we work them. One of the certainties will be the continuous growth of the world population during this decade, from the current 7.8 to 8.5 billion, of which 85% will live in developing countries. Portugal’s residents will be fewer and older, with the population below 10 million and decreasing. The other certainty has to do with the overtaking, in terms of GDP, of the eastern countries that joined the European Union in this century, relegating Portugal to the tail of the GDP per capita ranking. Given these certainties, what we must do to make Portugal more attractive to invest is to promote economic growth. We are talking about taxes that stimulates investment; education adequate to the needs of the economy (robust professional education); flexible labour legislation that values those who are competent; an efficient and swift judicial system; great incentives for innovation and for the collaboration between companies and technological centres and universities; and a financial system that supports projects, and not just consumer credit. In the case of the textile and clothing industry, are the answers that led to growth equally simple? It would be much simpler if the previous conditions were met, but opportunities will continue to exist, despite the nightmare that most companies are experiencing. From January, and throughout 2021, our future is at stake, as the European Commission will begin a
Faced with the disturbing and practically uncontrollable epidemiological growth, our expectations of health and economic recovery lead us to legitimate concerns and anxiety. The difficulties and challenges resulting from the new abnormality require adjusted action plans, implementing dynamic and innovative processes appropriate to our textile industry, by providing best practices and valuing human resources. In the last 40 years, the textile sector has been confronted with the stigmas and evaluations that sometimes required a vigorous intervention by bold and enlightened business players. In the 1980s, categorized as a disqualified and uninteresting sector from the moment Portugal joined the EEC in 1986, the textile industry, fortunately, reacted positively, modernizing itself and undertaking an undeniable effort to move from monotony to creativity, from pessimism to hope, externa-
consultation process on the new strategy for the textile and clothing sector. The EURATEX, ATP and the other European associations, as well as companies, will play a crucial role in this consultation period, which is expected to last six months (during the Portuguese presidency). By the end of the year, a new strategy should be presented by the Commission, with strong implications in innovation incentives, digitization, training and skills, sustainability and circular economy, as well as for the EU's position in terms of European trade agreements and levelling in the market access. The requirements that we are obliged to fulfil when accessing other markets must also be imposed to those that want to access our market. The demands made on European sustainability producers should also have the same reciprocity in the manufacture of products outside the EU, to level the playing field. The industry’s opportunities will be linked to the creation of a more sustainable economy over the course of this decade. The circular and sustainable economy is here to stay. The planet’s population will continue to grow and put enormous pressure on the climate issue. Whoever is able to produce sustainably at the cost of usual production will have a huge and continuously growing market. The difficulties to be overcome, and the innovations to develop will be many. The country’s weak laws when it comes to support investing companies will make this task even difficult, but we have one advantage: we are used to not having it easy. A good 2021, and a great 2030 decade. t
lizing an innovative entrepreneurial ability. Later, in 1994, a report made by Professor Michael Porter, on the initiative of Minister Mira Amaral, promoted the added value of sectors considered traditional, enabling a relevant appreciation of the textile sector for the Portuguese economy. This perception boosted its growth with a significant qualification of workers, in the growth of exports and with technological development. At the beginning of the century, new concerns emerged with the EU establishment, and with the changes in the World Trade Organization, with a challenging impact on the free movement of goods, and, consequently, facing unfair competition from other countries, due to abusive and/or disrespectful socially and environmental practices. Subsequently, with the crisis that lasted from 2008 to 2013, new adversities called for the ability to manage inherent risks, to act quickly and intelligently, defining the
priorities knowledgeably. Obviously, not all companies managed to overcome the moment with feasibility, probably as a result of financial dependence, obsolete structure and inability to compete. In recent times, our social and business lives have changed significantly. The unknown virus is testing our abilities to the limit. This new abnormality requires, in particular from the Government, through the 2021 state budget, objective measures to incentivize and stimulate business activity, revealing unequivocal solidarity towards the business fabric, as happened during the 1st pandemic wave, and that now has been neglected and disregarded, unfortunately! Despite this blatant lack of solidarity, we remain determined to overcome the obstacles that confront us permanently, and to resist the frequent adversities intrinsic to business activity, in order to successfully overcome the new abnormality. t
COMPANIES MAINTAIN INVESTMENTS DESPITE DROP IN SALES Three out of five Portuguese companies expect a drop in sales of more than a third (36%), in the last quarter of the year, but that doesn’t make entrepreneurs lose confidence. The vast majority wants to maintain or increase their human resources (83%) as well as its investment plans (61%). The data comes from a survey promoted by CIP – Confederação Empresarial de Portugal, and by ISCTE’s Marketing FutureCast Lab, and counted with the participation of CIP’s business associations.
"Every day we receive proposals from customers that are returning from Asia" Nuno Sousa Flor da Moda's Administrator
MEIA PATA REACHES THE USA, MEXICO AND NORWAY
Even in an atypical year, Meia Pata has managed to broaden horizons and conquer new markets. After Russia, in January, the Portuguese children’s fashion brand has now reached North America and Norway. “In spite of everything, 2020 is giving us some very important opportunities”, highlights Carla Areal, CEO of the brand, who had also managed to establish partnerships with a new distributor for the United States and other for Mexico, the “big goals” that Meia Pata established for 2020. t
MODTISSIMO RETURNS ON MARCH 10TH AND 11TH The engines of the next edition of Modtissimo are already roaring: on March 10th and 11th, the main Portuguese textile event will bring together all the Portuguese textile and clothing industry at Alfândega do Porto. Having in mind the success of the last edition, in September, the Portuguese exhibitors see MODTISSIMO as a unique opportunity to maintain face-to-face contact with customers and to present their collections in person, guaranteeing all security conditions. After the success of the last edition, whose goals were exceeded, with the usual presence of Portuguese and foreign buyers – the latter even increased in numbers, representing 12.5% of the total visitors – Modtissimo is already laying the
foundations for edition number 57. At a time when most international fairs postpone their editions or go digital, Modtissimo keeps its focus on presenting collections face-to-face, having delayed the fair from February to March. Unlike the last few years, Modtissimo will take place in the same space as the September editions, the historic Alfândega do Porto building. The theme of this edition 57 is ‘Blossom’, representing the spring-summer season blooming, and the collective hopes for a quick return to normal. At Alfândega do Porto, the entire rank of the Portuguese textile industry will be represented, from raw materials to fabrics and knits, clothing manufacturing and fashion for adults and children.t
ADALBERTO’S NEW SPORTSWEAR COLLECTION INACTIVATES COVID-19 After the first reusable textile mask capable of inactivating the new coronavirus, Adalberto has just launched a new collection of sportswear that incorporates the same technology, proven by the Institute of Molecular Medicine and capable of inactivating the SARS-COV-2 virus by 99%. The new collection includes hoodies, sweatshirts, leggings and tracksuits, and is now available in the company’s online store. “The hoodie encompasses the ad-protect antimicrobial and an-
tiviral technology. This technology has been proven to inactivate the SARS-COV-2 virus with an efficiency greater than 99%,” said Hugo Miranda, Adalberto’s director of innovation. The hoodie also incorporates an “intelligent moisture management system for greater comfort and performance, so that it can be used in day-to-day outings, sports practice, among others”, describes Hugo Miranda. The gloves, on the other
hand, “protect the user when opening doors, on trips to the supermarket, on public transports, etc., thus helping to reduce cross contamination”. Adalberto and MO had already launched a line of jumpers with the same protective properties for children aged three to 14. The company’s innovation director says that the goal is to develop more new products that inactivate Covid-19, especially biodegradable ones. t
GIVACHOICE SETS EYES IN INTERNATIONALIZATION” Created in 2012 with a focus on private label, Givachoice is determined to move towards international fairs. The debut at MODTISSIMO, at the end of September, was seen as a test for the company that sees itself as a women’s fashion manufacture in the medium-high segment. Givachioce already works with several European, Australian and North American brands.
million euro was the amount of money that Borgstena invested to make protective equipment
MTEX-NS DEVELOPS SUSTAINABLE DIGITAL DYEING MACHINE The Portuguese manufacturer Mtex – New Solutions has just developed, in partnership with Nextil, a sustainable digital dyeing machine, which the company classifies as revolutionary. One more step on the path to environmentally sustainable solutions, in which the company led by Elói Ferreira has long invested.
THE MERMAID MYTH RECREATED BY ERT
ERT has just developed a new textile coating from the leather and EVA [ethylene vinyl acetate foam] scraps from its production lines. The new product, made in partnership with research centres, is now being suggestively presented as a “Mermaid dress”. “The dress is an exhibition piece, but there will be other products, such as furniture, car parts, or wall cladding”, explains Fernando Merino, ERT'S innovation director.
In this issue of T International - the last of 2020 - we take a look back at this unpredictable year by talking with some of the Portuguese...
Published on Jan 19, 2021
In this issue of T International - the last of 2020 - we take a look back at this unpredictable year by talking with some of the Portuguese...