A u g u s t
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Letter from the Editor
Welcome to Issue #9 of Timepiece Magazine. Our magazine continues its evolution. And through that evolution we have moved Timepiece Magazine away from what its name implies to focus on a mix of topics. However, our primary focus will be on how we interact with inanimate objects to enhance our own existence, define our lives, and the lives of those around us. It will be, we hope, a transformational journey for us all. As we move away from our roots to become an all-inclusive magazine with a mix of topics for both men and women, we will feature not only some of the world’s renowned independent watchmakers, but also athletes and artists, inspiring travel destinations, and the latest in gear, style, timepieces and technology. With our ongoing evolution, we also want to deliver our magazine in formats that suit all our readers and their reading habits. It is for this reason that we have fully embraced ISSUU.com, the world’s leader in online publishing. Utilizing its state-of-the-art platform, you can view our magazine seamlessly on both desktop and mobile devices. In this issue of Timepiece Magazine, we feature a great juxtaposition of articles: one a fascinating discussion with independent watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, a well-established icon in the watch industry; and two, we are continuing to follow student Bas Quadaekers on his journey to becoming a master watchmaker. Our other features include an interview with Samantha Poole, who after 25 years in the fashion industry designed a four-hour program to help women find their own style, and an in-depth look at the AIKON, the Maurice Lacroix ladies quartz timepiece. Every quarter, you will find articles that will entertain and educate, challenge and inspire. I hope you enjoy this issue as much as we have enjoyed creating it.
E. Mark Baran Publisher
Shopping for watches online doesnâ€™t have to be hazardous to a healthy pocket Learn how to navigate online safely and securely as it can be a rocky road for those who want to buy a watch.
The Ultimate Wristwatch Strap: The NATO Follow the NATO Strap from its days as a military utilitarian watch strap to its status
today as a civilian fashion statement. Peter Speake-Marin: Timepieces of true Rarity and Exclusivity Feature Interview: Independent watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin talks about the future of the watch industry, what drives him and what inspires him.
The Making of a Watchmaker â€“ Part VIII A rare glimpse into the process of becoming a master watchmaker.
Restoring a 1968 Omega Geneve Timepiece Learn how this watch without an original crown, strap or plexiglass, but with water damage inside the movement was restored. Do your clothes truly reflect who you are? Find out how your body shape, personality and lifestyle can be combined to create the right look for the right moment. My AIKON: The Maurice Lacroix AIKON Ladies Quartz Timepiece If you want a watch with a little bit of ruggedness combined with elegance, consider My AIKON. The latest gadgets and devices for a man who has everything Discover some cool toys that take the coolness factor to a whole new level.
Shopping for watches online doesnâ€™t have to be
hazardous to a healthy pocket By E. Mark Baran
It can be a rocky road for those who want to buy a watch. It’s a minefield online with many potential risks: counterfeit watches, incorrect references, confusing information, low resolution images so you can’t see the markings, stock photos that don’t really show you much—it’s daunting if you are new to the watch world and you don’t have established trusted sources. You can avoid these risks. You can safely shop online, exploring the extensive array of watches that the physical space of a traditional retail store limits. You can browse dozens of websites, and you can find the price that fits your budget. Day or night, you can discover infinite choices. The online store is within arm’s reach—from your personalized shopping experience in the comfort of your home, to an expedited delivery to your door. Let’s take a brief look at the emergence of online shopping. Then we’ll take a look at how to shop online, safely and securely.
Reshaping the retail landscapee In the 1990s, when the technology boom swept the nation and enticed people to leap onto the online shopping bandwagon, it was, believe it or not, simpler and safer to buy a watch. By the end of the 1990s, before bricks and mortar retailers had moved to complementary e-commerce operations, you bought a watch from the after-market, large volume dealers who had migrated to the internet to exchange available inventory. These dealers were the first to embrace internet shopping and to offer watches for sale online. They reshaped the retail landscape and redefined customers’ expectations—as never before you could search for value, selection, and convenience. For example, if you wanted to buy a Rolex Submariner you browsed through many different reputable dealers’ websites, you didn’t have to dig your way through online retailers or deal with the traditional retail store. It was easy to buy a watch: the dealers were reputable and the watches were genuine. A natural offshoot was for dealers to design and build online websites where watch collectors could post a watch for sale, search for a pre-owned watch, discuss watches, the reputation of a brand, and more. The first to gain notoriety was Watchnet.com in 1996. A spinoff called TimeZone.com followed in 2000. Today, TimeZone.com has become the leading English language website for wristwatch collectors, hobbyists, and people seeking information about wristwatches and the watch industry. Its participants and moderators are located around the world, offering forums in English, French and Japanese. In that time period, the road became even more rocky. People started selling on eBay. By early 2008, eBay had expanded worldwide and had hundreds of millions of registered users. Globally for some consumers it was a setback that, in part, led to the minefields we are experiencing today. The huge potential of the internet was too much to resist and people took advantage, buying questionable watches or manufacturing counterfeit watches and then selling them online for a profit. Not long after the millennial, counterfeit watches and countless unhappy, dissatisfied customers swamped watch manufacturers. Customers had bought the manufacturers’ watches from sellers who were taking advantage of the internet’s rapid growth and lack of controls. Buying watches online became a risky activity. You were going to buy a fake; you were going to lose money. Regardless, online watch sales soared, taking off in early 2000 into what they are today. The continuing growth in market share positively affected watch manufacturers and drove them to open their own e-commerce operations—effectively reducing the risk to potential watch buyers. Breitling was the first major watch manufacturer to bring its brand into e-commerce. Earlier this year, Breitling opened its own e-commerce operation, ensuring that its customers bought a genuine Breitling watch. Previously, Breitling had big yellow lettering on its home page cautioning visitors to never buy a watch online. Today, when you go onto the Breitling site you can buy a watch, or find an Official Distributor of Breitling watches anywhere in the world. Panerai is another prestigious watch manufacturer who has opened its own e-commerce operation. Let’s say you want a particular Panerai watch such as the Luminor 1950 3 days GMT Automatic ACCIAIO 42 mm. Just visit the Panerai site and from their “E-BOUTIQUE” page you can buy it, add it to a wish list, contact a concierge for additional information, or find your nearest boutique.
Buying a watch online takes time In the early days of the internet, browsers had little search capability. If you were looking for a watch online, you pretty much had to know the URL of the dealer’s website. In simple terms, you knew the seller. Today, it’s easy to find and buy a watch. You have to recognize that you don’t buy the watch as such, but the seller’s reputation. Remember that, and you won’t go wrong. If you are new to the world of watches and horology, I have these words of advice: Don’t buy online until you have some experience and knowledge of watches and what makes them tick. Knowledge is key. When you buy a watch you need to know which watch will meet your specific needs. Decide on the style and functionality that will ensure you have exactly matched your watch to your lifestyle. Once you have chosen the style, learn about its “movements,” the mechanism inside the watch, and decide which one you would prefer: mechanical or quartz, manual wind or automatic. To be safe, know exactly what you are buying. If you can, visit a watch manufacturer’s official distributor and try them on to see how they look and feel. Gain an understanding of how different watch case sizes will look on your wrist. Buying online without this hands-on experience puts you at risk of buying the wrong watch. If you are looking for a 40 mm watch and you neglect to read the specifications on the website, you could wind up with one that is 52 mm—and you’ll be seriously disappointed. When you visit the store, you can put it on your wrist and see how it looks compared to other brands. The internet is a wondrous place to do your research and shop. As a watch collector, or an individual knowledgeable about watches, you can find a watch anywhere in the world. You will have built up your sources and you will have many opportunities to find a genuine watch at the best price. You can save in many ways by exploring all the possibilities, making the watch you want that much easier to attain.
Navigating online safely & securely Here are a few points to keep in mind: •
Low resolution photographs – If it isn’t clear, then you shouldn’t buy the watch. You need high resolution photographs so you can check reference numbers and markings, then compare them to other watches that you know are genuine.
Presentation box and papers (official chronometry certificate, certificate of guarantee, and resale invoice) – A watch that is shipped with its papers in its presentation box helps you to source and authenticate the watch. As a collector of 40 years’ experience, I have never seen a counterfeit watch with serial numbers that matched the serial numbers on the papers in the packaging—it may exist, but I haven’t seen it. So try to avoid buying a watch online unless you know beyond any doubt that it has its box and papers—and matching serial numbers.
The deal that tempts – The only way to ensure the watch you buy at a reduced price is genuine, is to research the seller in-depth. It is preferable to forego the watch than take the risk if you have any doubts. It’s far better to pay the full purchase price to ensure you acquire the watch you want.
Look at who is selling the watch – To buy watches successfully, you need to find sources you can trust. Check their reputation and experience, then see if you can find others who have dealt with them. Especially with pre-owned watches—you don’t want to inherit another person’s problems. The ideal person who sells watches online should have substantive experience in the online marketplace as both a buyer and seller. Also, if your favorite watch company sells online then buy direct—you know you are getting the real thing.
Anticipation is part of the pleasure of online shopping. It’s an engrossing journey: digging for nuggets of information in an online environment and discovering a watch that is flawless and made for you. When the courier delivers your watch and you unwrap it and wear it, imagine how rewarded and satisfied you’ll feel. You successfully navigated the online minefield, and you travelled thousands of miles around the world from where you sit—and now you have a watch with a reputation and character on your wrist. What could be better than that?
Ultimate Wristwatch Strap The NATO Strap
By Máire Jacqueline O’Callaghan
Would you wear a NATO Strap with a $50,000 watch? Would you? It is quite a cachet wearing a NATO strap. Consider its history and the watches it can complement: a $250 Timex, a $8,000 Rolex Submariner, or even a $50,000 Patek Philippe. The NATO strap is a classic, durable, and timeless. Developed in the 1970s by the British Ministry of Defence for British Army soldiers during the military tension of the Cold War (1947 to 1991), the NATO strap wasn’t made for NATO troops. NATO (North Atlantic Treaty Organization) was founded after World War II through the military alliance of European and North American democracies. Its task was to act as a counterbalance to the Soviet Union and the Warsaw Pact. While a watch strap made for NATO troops reflects a time of tremendous upheaval and devastating loss, the NATO strap we are all familiar with merely reflects a utilitarian NATO stock number. Originally, the NATO strap was known as G10, the number of the British Army strap requisition form. Since then this strap named after a stock number and a requisition form has taken flight: it has become an icon and has evolved over the past fortyfive years into a clearly identifiable, prestigious brand name. What turned a military utilitarian watch strap into a civilian fashion statement? The progression is interesting. As a British soldier during the Cold War era, your G10 watch strap was part of your standard military uniform along with your beret, khaki puttees and olive drab woollen pullover. Today, of course, you can wear the NATO strap with anything, anywhere—at the office, at a social occasion, or at a sporting event.
How the NATO strap evolved in the military
Many British military watches before the early 1970s had welded lug bars in place of spring bars, which required a one-piece long strap to thread through both fixed lugs and across the back of the watch—ensuring the watch was secure in tough and dangerous conditions. Even so, the British Ministry of Defence wanted to provide its soldiers with a more secure alternative to the traditional leather or metal watch straps. It chose a nylon weave because it possessed flexibility and durability while ensuring high performance in adverse conditions. The British Ministry of Defence Standard (or DefStan) 66-15 specification was for an “Admiralty Grey” nylon strap 280 mm long, 20 mm wide; 12 heat-sealed adjustment holes; and chrome-plated brass buckles and keepers. A second, shorter piece of nylon strap was attached to the buckle with a keeper for the main part of the strap to pass through once it had been looped behind the watch. The NATO strap limited how much the watch case could move and, as long as the strap was passed through properly on the wrist, the case stayed in place. So if a spring bar broke or popped out, the watch would still be secured by the other spring bar. With the new design and the nylon material, the NATO strap delivered the additional security: it could be worn over or under clothing such as a military flight suit or wetsuit, and it kept the buckle away from the underside of the wrist, ensuring it didn’t catch on clothing or equipment. Once the strap was in circulation, British military personnel customized the NATO strap with their respective regimental colors. They created stripes of all colors and combinations to honor their regiments and gradually the colorful military striped NATO strap evolved into the straps we see today.
How the NATO strap jumped the military
It didn’t take long for the NATO strap to move to civilian life. As civilians gradually grew to appreciate the strap for its versatility and durability, it gained in popularity. At the end of the Cold War, many NATO straps were sold in military surplus shops around the country—all with their unique NATO Surplus Number. They quickly sold out, but watch strap retailers stepped in to meet the demand. And now today we have a number of choices in strap widths, some as wide as 26 mm to work with modern larger watch cases.
The attributes and abilities that caught civilians’ eyes Here are five attributes and abilities that have led to the longevity and popularity of the NATO strap:
Up until the NATO strap jumped into civilian life, a watch strap had been in two pieces. The appeal of the NATO strap lay partly in its single-piece construction. Switching out the two-piece strap took time, while switching out the one-piece NATO strap took only seconds—without tools and without worrying about scratching. With the NATO nylon strap woven underneath the spring bars, you can remove or add it quickly and easily.
The NATO strap is fun, flexible and functional. As it is quickly interchangeable and has many colors and combinations, it can easily be coordinated with your wardrobe and watch. You can interchange your NATO strap while traveling from office to home to concert. Although if you are a horology purist you might not choose to wear your NATO strap with your Patek Philippe, but it is simple to switch out if you want to add color and accentuate your accessories.
The NATO strap is one of the most affordable, versatile and reliable watch straps on the market. As it delivers an exceptional level of performance and is resistant to harsh conditions, you can wear it anywhere without worrying about the security of your watch.
The NATO strap is compatible with most watch faces, so you can wear it with almost any watch you have in your collection.
With its tough woven nylon material and resistance to mold, the NATO strap is great for all water sports whether you want to snorkel, play water polo, or canoe.
What to look for when you buy a NATO strap
If you want to buy a NATO strap, be on the look out for cheap copies. Here’s what you should look for according to the TimeSurfer for webWatchWorld.com: üü Check the length – It should be at least 280 mm long and if the length isn’t shown, then if possible measure it yourself. üü Check the thickness of the material – At the minimum it should be 1.5 mm, but look for one that is 2.0 mm as it is obviously much more durable. üü Check the keepers – These should be 3 mm round stainless steel. üü Check keepers and buckle are sewn into the fabric – These should have either single or double rows of stitching on either side of the metal—avoid the heat sealing method as it is counterproductive. You buy the NATO strap for functionality and durability, and if it is heat sealed then you have defeated its purpose. Finally, to ensure you get the strap that fits your watch, we’d like to add that you should check the width of the opening between the lugs of your watch that retains the spring bars. Measured in millimeters, the strap width should match the width of the opening between the lugs.
What you need to remember and mustn’t forget
The NATO strap was solely designed as a functional, utilitarian piece of equipment for the British Armed Forces. It was made to be virtually indestructible under the worst of conditions: fighting on land or sea, or marching through tropical jungles or across endless desserts. It was a tough strap made specifically for rough conditions. And it was made to wear over or under different types of army gear. What the NATO strap offers today is versatility and security. You can if you want wear it anywhere for any occasion. But for the NATO strap to be truly in its element, wear it when skiing long, difficult slopes in mountainous terrain, or diving underwater to explore a complex system of caves. And if you do wear it with your $50,000 watch while listening to opera or attending a black tie affair, it will be comfortable, it will coordinate with your designer cocktail dress or tailormade suit, and it will be a conversation piece. After all, it is a piece of British military history with a sterling reputation.
Timepieces of true Rarity & Exclusivity By Máire Jacqueline O’Callaghan Master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin creates timepieces that inspire. He links classical watchmaking with distinctive contemporary designs to produce rare and exclusive timepieces. Since Peter launched Speake-Marin in 2002, his collection has grown from time-only wristwatches to encompass complications including date, power reserve, single hand, jumping hour, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and minute repeaters. Having followed the watch industry for a few years now, I’ve always perceived Peter Speake-Marin as a giant in the industry. After our conversation, my perception hasn’t changed, but what I did discover about him is his humor and humility. He sees himself as a small independent watchmaker whose brand is dominated by large volume, well-known brands, which is true. But his watches aren’t. His timepieces from the Foundation Pocket Watch to the Vintage Tourbillon to the Born Watch are renowned for their unsurpassed craftsmanship and their distinctive aesthetics—his watches are the giants in the industry. I asked Peter many questions, which he was gracious enough to answer with much humor and insight. I didn’t expect to have so much fun when talking to him. Here are my questions and his responses.
Q &A In May 2016, the downturn in Swiss watch exports continued and it is reported that the Swiss watch industry is flagging. What do you see for the future of the Swiss watch industry?
The reality is that everything changes. Our world is changing; it’s not going through a crisis—it’s a paradigm shift. So much product has been produced over the past ten years that the marketplace is flooded, causing discounted products and compromises with brand value.
The guys who produce large numbers of watches, I think they are going to pull back. In parallel, companies that see what’s going on, that see the shift, perceive it to be a crisis, but it’s not, it’s change—we’re entering a new world that’s resulted from the huge amount of product now in the marketplace. My perception is that people are looking for genuine value, products that retain value over time. People see companies producing lim ited editions and then they find them everywhere. The value just isn’t there. When you kill the image of high exclusivity for a particular watch, then you disable the likelihood of selling that watch to people who are in the market for exclusivity and value. For small companies, independent watchmakers, there’s a great opportunity to touch a larger market in the future, one that meets the need for an authentic and exclusive timepiece that won’t be reproduced to the point where it loses its value—especially from an investment perspective.
Has the downturn in Swiss watch exports coupled with the major shift to online shopping led to a consideration of online sales channels?
Not at all. With the prices of an independent watchmaker’s products and limited volume, we don’t have an online market. Online products are produced in volume. You might see our products online, but it’s rare. Usually it’s someone selling a piece they’ve purchased. Online sales channels just don’t work for products as specialized as I make. In the long term though, it might be something that everyone does.
Before you lived in Switzerland you spent about seven years working at Somlo Antiques in the Piccadilly Arcade, London, England. During those early years what do you feel was your greatest achievement? The whole experience. When I started at Somlo, it didn’t have a workshop. I was about 20 years old when I built the watch restoration department. It was taking something that was a seed of an idea and developing it into something that was important—it was an incredible learning curve and it has influenced my whole professional life.
In particular, George Somlo influenced the way I deal with people. No matter what they looked like, even if they looked as though they didn’t have two beans to rub together, they were treated with courtesy. And then these not so well dressed people would occasionally buy products and pay with an American Express Centurion Card or Black Card. He respected everyone. I learned much from George: about business, sales, people, and through restoration the development of watchmaking from its origins leading up to the mid-twentieth century. That’s when I fell in love with watchmaking. The entire experience. There was not a single achievement. I learned to live life in the way I chose to: to take ideas and to execute them. I met incredible people and had an extraordinary experience.
It is my understanding that the inspiration for your skull theme is linked to your days at Somlo Antiques in restoration. If so, what is the link?
I’ve been influenced by vintage watches, not directly linked but influenced. Skull watches have been around for hundreds of years, and I’ve been making them for the last ten. The skull is a reminder of mortality, a Memento Mori, and I look at them and I’m reminded of mortality. I see the skull as a celebration of life. We only have a short time, and we are privileged to have what we have. The skull is a reminder of life, of what we’ve been given. A reminder that we’re alive. This is my motivation for making them.
Q &A Since constructing the Foundation Pocket Watch by hand sixteen years ago, you have restored antique watches such as original Breguets and Patek Philippes, established your first independent workshop, and, since 2008, focused exclusively on building the Speake-Marin brand. What now? Do you have any particular personal long-range goals in terms of watchmaking?
My drive is the love of what I do. I do have plans that run years into the future, but I’m driven by having an idea and making it into something that is real. That’s the motivation behind what I do. Having an idea and making it real is the equivalent to having a dream and living it. If you plan to go somewhere and you buy tickets for the journey it’s the same as having an idea, designing it, and making it, then you hold the product in your hand: that’s your destination. I love that it’s the materialization of a thought, just like arriving at your destination. I’m fortunate as I have an incredible diversity in my work: sometimes the ideas are uniquely my own, and other times specific commissions from clients. I’ve been asked to collaborate or develop special watches for people, projects such as the London chronograph for Harrods, a fusion of vintage and modern, and the Rum Watch for Wealth Solutions in Poland. We’ve also created watches specific to different cultures; for example, a series of watches called Dong Son for the Vietnamese market. I adapt easily to these kinds of projects, which is useful as more and more people are looking for the unusual. And more people are becoming aware that we can execute extremely unusual watches.
The Rum Watch is a fascinating concept. Maciej Kossowski, President of Wealth Solutions, requested a Rum Watch for the company’s Spirit Watches Collection. The rum resides in the watch, on the dial in a capsule at eleven o’clock, which until the 1970s was the time of day when sailors in the British Navy would receive their regular portion of rum. Inside the capsule we have a drop of rare 1780 Harewood Rum. The phrase, “Stand fast the Holy Ghost” would be recounted at the distribution of the rum—on the back of the watch I have engraved these words. The new watch with its rum brewed and bottled 236 years ago encapsulates the essence of those times.
Your love of mythology and different cultures is encapsulated in your collections: the Art Series hand engraved and sculptured dragon and the Japanese Maki-e. You also have the fusion of vintage and modern, traditional craftsmanship and the latest technologies that create highly intricate motifs. Are there any watches in your collections that are special to you?
Not a single watch. It comes back to the freedom to be able to create, and it’s not necessarily creating the most complicated or simple. Take the Foundation Pocket Watch, it’s the reason I’m here today. It was a rite of passage to prove to myself that I could execute the design and technical construction, as well as the watchmaking. The watch that followed was called the Resilience with a white enamel dial and blued steel hands. I always return to that watch and I love it and it will always be part of the J-Class Collection1 in some form or another. The Resilience is a classic watch, and with its hand-finished mechanical self-winding movement it has longevity on its side both in design and construction.
J Class yachts were the original America’s Cup racers, and Shamrock V was the first J Class yacht. A bit like the Piccadilly timepiece, she was the first of a fleet and was the apogee of technological achievement in her time. Like the J Class Shamrock V, Speake-Marin J-Class Resilience is a classic beauty combined with the spirit of a new era.
You met actor and producer Pierce Brosnan on the set of the film Survivor when you served as a consultant for his role as an assassin whose codename was Watchmaker. (Survivor is a 2015 British-American spy thriller film directed by James McTeigue and written by Philip Shelby.) Tell us about your experience as a film consultant? It was an extraordinary experience to be a consultant on a film set. I dressed the boutique window with watches, constructed and furnished both the boutique and the workshop with all my tools. I showed Pierce how to hold the watchmaker’s screwdriver and eyeglass—in the film he wore my eyeglass. It took months of preparation, two to three days for filming, and maybe one minute of actual screen time. Pierce and I both have a passion for what we do and we share the same values. We stayed in contact and after a few months I asked him if he would be our official brand ambassador. I was both honored and delighted when he said yes.
What would the crowning lifetime achievement be for you and your brand as a company? I believe that what I have done will perpetuate into the future. There are few new brands that have something so strong that will continue indefinitely. The Speake-Marin brand has a strong DNA. What I make is genuine and original, as you will find with an artist, musician or writer, and if it’s authentic it can’t be confused with others.
Closing the conversation
When you consider the large high-end, well-known brands that manufacture tens of thousands of watches a year, and then you consider an independent watchmaker like Peter Speake-Marin who manufactures a tiny number of watches a year, then isn’t it obvious where the true rarity and exclusivity lie? Consider too, that the Speake-Marin brand is the product of Peter’s vision and execution—his timepieces are a representation of himself as a watchmaker and they are works of art. When Pierce Brosnan was made the new brand ambassador he said, “Peter makes more than a watch…he places his soul intohis work.” With a Speake-Marin timepiece, you aren’t just wearing a watch—you are wearing a timeless classic with the esthetics, complicated mechanisms and high performance that will last a lifetime, and beyond.
The Making Part of a Watchmaker
The journey to become a master watchmaker continues By Máire O’Callaghan & Bas Quadaekers
Since September 2014, we have been following Bas Quadaekers’ progress at Vakschool Schoonhoven, Netherlands. Each week, Bas has had twelve hours of practical lessons, with three of those hours spent disassembling and assembling watch movements, and nine hours making things like brass plates, working on the lathe, replacing balance staffs, and testing the centre of gravity.
Venturing into polishing
At the end of April 2016, Bas commenced his internship at a Rolex Service Centre. When he started he was working on battery services and then he moved to servicing mechanical Rolex watches.
Right now I’m capable of servicing the basic ETA calibers and the Rolex 3135, in the coming period I will slowly move onto other Rolex movements, maybe Omega co-axial. Eventually I’d like to do some chronographs as well. I’m taking it slow and steady because that is the only way to build a solid routine and become a good watchmaker.
In Bas’ own words we’ll follow his progress at the Rolex Service Centre.
Interning at the Rolex Service Centre
Over the past 50 days of my internship, I have worked on Rolex, Omega and Tag Heuer mechanical watches, as well as servicing quartz watches from Rado, Omega, Tag Heuer, Cartier, and Hublot.
I only worked on quartz watches, taking the case apart and changing gaskets and the battery. I then cleaned the case and bracelet and put the movement back inside. Sometimes when the energy consumption of the movement is too high, you need to take it apart and clean it.
This internship is my first venture into polishing watches. The first few were very hard, but now I’m slowly getting into it and can polish a simple Rolex Datejust or Submariner without a problem. It’s just that you have to be really careful and try and keep the edges of the case and bracelet sharp, it only takes a few seconds for a case to be ruined.
Bas is at day 53 of his 120-day internship at the Rolex Service Centre. He will be returning to Vakschool Schoonhoven on January 9, 2017, for a full year of school, followed by another 120-day internship period. Bas said he’d love to do his next internship at A. Lange & Söhne in Germany. Bas graduates in July 2018. It’s been a privilege to follow Bas over the past two years— the halfway point to achieving his goal of becoming a master watchmaker.
Mainly I worked on easy quartz stuff because at Vakschool Schoonhoven I rarely worked with cases and dials, I mostly worked on movements. So I needed to build some experience with cases, dials and hands. The hardest case to clean is a watch with a black dial—you can see every single spec of dust on a black dial, and getting it spotless in the case is quite the challenge.
I started working on mechanical movements during the second week. At first I worked on the Rolex 3135, which was used for events and interns like me. and then I eventually worked on customers’ watches. While these movements are quite simple, and I was used to working on these simple mechanical movements while in school, it was still difficult the first month or so. I needed to apply copious amounts of oil while checking wear and tear. Rolex standards are strict, so that was something I had to get used to.
Discovering & Restoring a 1968 Omega Geneve Timepiece By Bas Quadaekers
I found an Omega last year, a model Geneve from 1968. The watch didn't have an original crown, strap or plexiglass and water damage was inside the movement. But for less than €200, how could I resist buying it. I waited about a year to service the watch because I just wasn't skilled enough when I bought it. I started by taking it apart and cleaning the movement two times in the Vibrograf cleaner, which has an ultrasonic cleaning bath as well. This was needed to get rid of the junk inside the watch. Most parts were in good condition, I don't think the watch saw a lot of wear in the past, but some parts were rusty because water had been inside the movement. I removed the rust with a fiberglass brush and then polished the important parts like some screws and the swan-neck regulator on the balance bridge. This was in bad condition and took me many hours to get in somewhat good shape again. When all this was done, I cleaned the movement twice again to be 100% sure there wouldn't be any loose rust or diamond paste particles inside the movement—I used the paste to polish the stainless steel surfaces of the parts. Then I started assembling and lubricating, and finally regulating the watch. It's now running at approximately +5 seconds a day, which I think is more than acceptable for a near 50-year-old watch. I ordered a new crown and crystal through school, and bought an Omega buckle and an ostrich leather strap off the internet. After cleaning the case, I assembled the whole bunch and I'm very very happy with the result. Total cost of the watch, new parts and strap: €305—I feel very fortunate.
By MĂĄire Jacqueline Oâ€™Callaghan
Samantha Poole designs wardrobes for body shapes, personalities and lifestyle
Have you had one of those moments of indecision when you are ready to go out to an important function or on a special dinner date, and you stop and survey yourself from top to toe in the mirror and you think, Is this right; I’m not sure? Then you change into something else. And all the time you have that niggling sense that says, If only I’d worn that. What that is, you aren’t sure. But you do know that it isn’t what you are wearing.
We all want to present ourselves at our best, whatever the occasion. The right clothes give us confidence. They are a reflection of who we are. And when that reflection doesn’t fit our body shape or personality, then we know in our heart that something isn’t quite right. Samantha Poole can put it right. Steeped in a life that has at its center women’s needs from fighting for fairness in the workplace to building self esteem and confidence through their visual appearance, Sam has spent her life dedicated to helping women present themselves at their optimum best—wearing what suits their body shape, their personality, and their lifestyle. In her early years, Sam’s aspiration was to be a lawyer, battling for women’s rights in the workplace. But after leaving school at 18, she found herself working at the Royal Bank of Scotland in internal auditing and was, not surprisingly, bored out of her mind. It’s amazing how life disrupts dreams of following a certain path, then delivers another that at first glance appears to be no path at all. But Sam’s time working in internal auditing unexpectedly was a stepping stone toward her life’s work. While working at the bank, she acquired the knowledge required to run her own business. At age 23, she opened her own footwear and accessories store on the Isle of Man, an island of ancient castles, cobbled streets, and a thriving business sector, located in the Irish Sea between England and Ireland. She said, “When the doors of my business first opened, it gave me such a huge sense of accomplishment, of achievement.” Sam has been working in the fashion industry now for more than 25 years. She is a high achiever, striving always to deliver not just the best product and service, but also the product that fits a customer’s character and culture. When in her early 20s, Sam was buying fashions in Europe. Since then she has spent many years traveling to South Africa and North America on buying trips. She gained her fashion industry awareness and strong business acumen from her years managing and marketing clothing sales for an award-winning fashion retailer in Cambridge, England, and in managing her own business. As a person who has always struggled with her weight, who has a “rounded hourglass” figure, and is five foot two, Sam says she was always trying to fit in and be comfortable in her own skin. Then she got involved in a body shaping program designed by Gok Wan, author of How to Look Good Naked: Shop for Your Shape and Look Amazing!, and How to Dress: Your Complete Style Guide for Every Occasion. “The program was fine and it worked,” said Sam. “But every woman has her own personality, so even though they might have been identified as a Pear shape, they might not have wanted to wear what was offered. You can’t give a woman a certain look if she doesn’t connect with it.” After this experience, Sam developed her own four-hour program: Defining Body Shape and Personality to enhance Body Image. Before the program starts, Sam gives the client an in-depth Questionnaire to determine personality type.
Program Overview Hour 1
üü Client looks at body shape images to find the one she feels best reflects her own body type. üü The consultant defines the personality type, gets to know the client, her lifestyle and her likes and dislikes.
üü The consultant defines the client’s body shape by using leggings and a camisole that are two sizes too small. üü Clothes that are too small emphasize the silhouette—Pear, Apple, Inverted Triangle, Hourglass, Column, or Rectangle—and help to define it. üü Consultant explains the “do’s” and “don’ts” of dressing client’s shape.
üü Consultant and client select clothing that fits body shape, personality and lifestyle. üü Client tries on clothing that fits all three categories and that she connects with.
üü The client tries on and learns how to put each piece of the new wardrobe together: jewelry, scarves, tops, pants, dresses, suits, etc. üü The client learns how each piece fits together and fits with her figure, personality and lifestyle.
It isn’t easy. Women have to be prepared to be completely open and ready to try on numerous pieces of clothing, every neckline, sleeve line, hemline, every shape of pant; they learn the right combinations and to choose what suits their body shape, personality and lifestyle. It’s not a question of wear this because it’s right for them, it’s a question of wearing only what they like, what has value and is comfortable and appropriate. It’s having something to wear that fits their mood whether they want to be casual or classic, dramatic or sexy. It’s knowing that what they wear is right for them and for the occasion. Colors are important. Sam believes we shouldn’t be hypnotized into what color we should wear by factors such as changing our colors for the seasons of the year, or wearing black for dates or interviews because black is perceived as “serious and reliable,” or the color red because it’s sexy and eye catching. The women who pass through Sam’s program learn to wear colors that fit their figure, personality and lifestyle. For example, if you are an older woman some people say that you shouldn’t wear black because it accentuates dark shadows and wrinkles. It might, but only in some cases, not in all. In some instances, it’s highly flattering, especially for women with grey hair. If older women, women in their 60s and 70s, listened to all the “advice” about what not to wear, they would be nervous wrecks wearing anything at all. And that’s where Sam’s program is invaluable. She guides each individual, regardless of age, on how to select clothing and accessories that enable her to be the best version of herself. Even if designated an Inverted Triangle shape, it’s not firmly fixed in concrete, it’s flexible and choices result in showcasing a personal style that’s right for that individual. Sam runs her program for a high-end, luxury fashion retailer who understands that visual appearance lies at the heart of many women’s lives, and who recognizes that wearing the right wardrobe gives women confidence and, in some cases, builds self esteem. As General Manager, Buyer and Style Director, Sam’s focus is on women between the ages of 40 and 70+, and on helping build their self confidence and self esteem. Sam looks around the marketplace to see what works, to see what she can find that will meet the needs of the women who come to her for help. Women who apologize for their appearance and how they look. Sam reassures them—she has an ability to be highly sensitive and empathetic, while being honest. As Sam explains, “It’s not about selling clothes, that doesn’t come into it. It’s about what a woman wants to achieve. It’s guiding them and teaching them about the psychology behind what she wears, it’s learning how to put things together—from clothing to jewelry to shoes. For example, when part of a woman’s personality includes a love of dramatic shoes even though it doesn’t fit her profile, then I teach her how to link the look together so the colors and styles blend and complement each other.” One of the biggest challenges Sam faces is when she’s called into a workplace to give a group seminar on the etiquette of business clothing. She says it’s tough to give women advice that doesn’t offend them, especially when talking about the inappropriateness of plunging necklines and extremely short skirts. Responses to Sam’s program, whether consulting with an individual, providing group seminars in the workplace, or presenting in-store workshops and fashion chats, have been phenomenal. Nothing but praise, repeat visits, and referrals. Sam helps women find their own style. She helps them find clothing and accessories that are right for them, and that blend into a perfect whole—into an image that fits and reflects who they are. When we feel great about how we look, when we know we are presenting the best version of ourselves—we feel the world is our oyster. We all need a Sam in our lives.
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The Maurice Lacroix AI1006-SS002-330-2 AIKON Ladies Quartz Timepiece Have you searched for your ideal watch and suddenly it is sitting in front of you—absolutely perfect? When I searched for my ideal watch I was inundated with choices—men’s watches primarily. But then I discovered Maurice Lacroix’s tradition of offering “his” and “hers” timepieces where couples choose to be reminded of each other by wearing a similar watch. That’s how I found my perfect watch, the AIKON. Although it bears a strong similarity to a man’s watch, it is subtly and truly a woman’s watch—with just that touch of ruggedness and elegance that is hard to find together in a woman’s timepiece. When you consider that Maurice Lacroix has forty years of achievement and twelve design awards, and has an incredible series of innovative developments, you can understand why I feel immensely proud when I wear my AIKON.
AIKON By Máire Jacqueline O’Callaghan
Loving my AIKON Maurice Lacroix released the AIKON Collection in 2016. For the AIKON, Maurice Lacroix took for inspiration its legendary Calypso timepiece, which it issued in the 1990s—an iconic quartz watch with a unique design. Even though the AIKON has a contemporary design, it bears the uniqueness inherent in the 25-year-old icon, Calypso. Each element of the AIKON exudes luxury with its high-quality finishing and high-precision quartz movement. Through the Calypso, the AIKON Collection has enduring links to the past and all the contemporary design elements for a future classic. With my passion for tradition and my inclination for a contemporary lifestyle, I couldn’t have found a more fitting timepiece. I love the unique prominent bezel with its six embracing “arms.” Like the battery-powered Calypso, the domed sapphire glass of the AIKON features an anti-reflective coating, giving it enhanced visibility. As well, the dial with its white on black offers superb readability regardless of whether it is day or night. Just like the Calypso, the AIKON model offers accurate timekeeping and as it is designed to be water resistant to 10 atm, or 100 meters, it is practically immune against any humidity, slight wetness, or incidental splashes. Perfect for a woman who likes nothing better than tramping through tropical rainforests, taking a relaxing dip in the refreshing water of the resort’s pool, and wading across braided rivers to photograph indigenous flora and fauna. The watch with its rugged round 35 mm, stainless steel case boasts a sun-brushed silver and black dial that complements my wardrobe and lifestyle—I’m partial to black outfits with silver or platinum jewelry. It is a watch that I pair seamlessly with anything from casual gear to cocktail attire.
Living a successful life How to live a successful life is embodied in the AIKON: “The perfect timepiece for those who seek success and demonstrate their resolve each day.” With resolve comes endeavor. And through that endeavor, through patience and persistence, hard work and inner strength, comes the ability to navigate life’s journey. It is only through our resolution that we can live happy and successful lives. And success is measured not just in meeting one’s career and personal goals, but in one’s own happiness and the happiness of those close to us. Every morning when I place my AIKON on my wrist, it reminds me of my resolutions. And each day those resolutions build the foundation of my future: they help me meet those goals that enable me to realize my dreams and to achieve excellence and success in all aspects of my life.
Realizing a dream I bought my AIKON Ladies watch to take with me on my travels to Ecuador and a tour of the Galápagos Islands where I slept and sailed on a catamaran—my AIKON was in its element. Traveling light and wearing my AIKON I journeyed for days by planes, cars and boats to finally reach my destination: the Galápagos Islands where you can experience biodiverse species and where you can walk among the indigenous iguanas, sea lions and wild giant tortoises. Watching the sun set over extraordinary populations of unique and fascinating wildlife was for me a dream come true. I was fortunate on San Cristóbal Island to walk with the Galápagos Giant Tortoises—they can weigh up to 550 pounds with their carapace up to four feet long. The Galápagos Giant Tortoises are still endangered with at least four of the 14 subspecies extinct. It is a story of amazing survival and is a testament to the success of the conservation efforts by the Galápagos National Park and by the Darwin Research Station. Since 1959, they have established a recovery and captive breeding program, repatriating land iguanas and tortoises—by 2007 more than 4,000 tortoises had been repatriated to their native islands. Success comes in many forms, and it is always through perseverance and progression. Think of the progression of the prestigious Maurice Lacroix brand, and the people of the Galápagos Islands who have for over 55 years persevered to preserve and protect species found nowhere else on earth. Whether you want to become legendary in your field, or to simply realize a dream, the AIKON is the perfect companion.
Embracing life Every piece that makes up your day, adds to your day. The pleasure from wearing my AIKON, from the reflection it gives of my personality, of what it says about me, is a constant source of delight. Each day with my AIKON on my wrist, I embrace my life whether relaxing poolside, working out at the gym, or taking in the architectural delights of an ancient culture. Yes, life can at times be tough. It can at times be disappointing or demotivating with the grind of daily routine. But it is not just what comprises your day, it is also what comprises your mind—just like the individuals who embody the same values that make the AIKON an iconic timepiece. Your values and aspirations, your ability to persist in the face of difficulties, and your achievements no matter the size, are what will transform your life from the ordinary to the extraordinary. Just like my AIKON that represents Maurice Lacroix’s forty years of continuous achievement: a steady progression, incorporating traditional watchmaking, creative development work, and the latest technology, stacks, one upon the other, to build an extraordinary brand. And that’s what life is: a steady progression of achievements that each day build the foundation of our future success. Just as the six “arms” embrace the AIKON’s form, we should embrace the values and aspirations that enable us to realize our full potential. My AIKON helps me do that.
The latest gadgets & devices for a man who has everything By Scott Williams If there is one single truth, it’s that we have a never-ending want and desire for cool toys. Whether it’s electronics, watches, or lifestyle goods, the cooler the object the more magpie-like we become. Aside from the those gadgets that are deemed worthy of our collections, there are gadgets and toys that take the coolness factor to a whole new level—where art, function, and downright amazing design becomes the driving factor in the ever-present “Want versus Need” debate inside our own minds. Here’s a list of just a few of the latest toys that I could easily add to my collection—and if my wife is reading this article: my Christmas list is now complete, sweetheart!
TRAK Backup Dive Knife
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Who doesn’t need a backup knife? If you’re a runner then it’s perfect as the TRAK weighs in at half an ounce, so you can be on the go and you won’t know it’s there. It’s made of titanium so it won’t rust; therefore, you can be running in the worst weather and you don’t have to be concerned about your knife rusting. It’s a cool knife with a thumb ramp, index finger hole and middle finger rest, so it’s impossible to drop.
Once you have the knife, you must have the thermoplastic Kydex sheath. You can attached it to your backpack, your keys or arm bands, or around your neck.
The Crosshatch Aluminum Wallet by Sapling
When you add this to your collection, you’ll wonder why you waited so long to buy it. It’s machined from a single piece of solid 6061 aircraft grade aluminum and then bead blasted and anodized with a fashionable coating so that it’s protected from the elements. If you want an alternative to your bulky, overstuffed wallet, then the Crosshatch Aluminum Wallet is perfect as it’s only 2 1/4” x 3 5/8” x 1/4”, (http://coolmaterial.com/gear/crosshatch-aluminum-wallets/)
The M-5000 Envirofit Rocket Stove
This is a really cool alternative to more traditional campsite cooking methods. It weighs only 9 pounds and is only 11” x 11” x 11” in size. Basically, you can cook anything in it that you can fit into a single pot. It uses a patented metal alloy combustion chamber, with the stove reaching the right temperature with only a few small sticks, pieces of kindling and a fire source, and it doesn’t create an excess amount of smoke. (http://coolmaterial.com/gear/m-5000-envirofit-rocket-stove/)
Evapolar – Your own personal Air Conditioner
This is a really cool alternative to more traditional campsite cooking methods. It weighs only 9 pounds and is only 11” x 11” x 11” in size. Basically, you can cook anything in it that you can fit into a single pot. It uses a patented metal alloy combustion chamber, with the stove reaching the right temperature with only a few small sticks, pieces of kindling and a fire source, and it doesn’t create an excess amount of smoke.
The titanium Grizzly from Bush Smarts
Made in the United States from recycled materials, the Grizzly with its 36” ultra strong 2mm Dyneema hi-viz cord makes the tensioning of your tarp tent lines or makeshift shelter easy. You’ll have many options for tying off onto supports of all shapes and sizes. (http://www.werd.com/34748/bush-smarts-grizzly/)
FoldiMate Laundry Folding Machine
What’s worse than doing laundry? Folding it. So try the FoldMate. It’ll save you time with its robotic arms that neatly fold all your clean clothes. It also offers a steam de-wrinkle and “perfuming” option if you want extra freshness. (http://www.werd.com/34934/foldimate-laundry-folding-machine/)
The Vuze VR Camera
If you shoot lots of video, then this is for you. The Vuze camera simplifies the process of shooting and sharing 4K VR video. For every one minute of processing time, its point-and-shoot capabilities, combined with near realtime processing with the Vuze studio app, generates one minute of fully blended and stitched VR footage. (http://www.werd.com/34646/vuze-vr-camera/)
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The Byrd Quadcopter
Here’s another must for a video enthusiast. With its amazing design the Byrd Quadcopter is perfectly portable as you can fold it up and carry it in your pack. It only takes minutes to set up. It has a 25-minute flight time and the standard model comes with a 1080p video camera. If you want, you can upgrade to a 4K camera option with “follow me” tracking function. With the Byrd Quadcopter you’ll be equipped for any strike missions off the beaten path.
FLIR Scout TK
If you’re going on a mission at night, the sleek FLIR Scout TK thermal vision monocular will give you the night vision you need. Not only that, but you’ll have the ability to record what you see over 100 yards away, whether people, objects or animals. It’s pocket-sized with a 5-hour Li-Ion battery, so it’s easy to carry. (http://www.werd.com/33715/flir-scout-tk/)
BANG & OLUFSEN BeoPlay A6
If you want a speaker that’s fantastic and doesn’t look like a speaker, then this is for you. From the 5-amp, 5-speaker BANG & OLUFSEN BeoPlay A6 you’ll listen to music with a crisp, clear, room‑filling sound. (http://www.werd.com/31555/bang-olufsen-beoplay-a6/)