Page 1

Aug 2014

Under Pressure

p.4

by William Scott

BeoVision Avant p.7 by Bang & Olufsen

The Making of a Watchmaker

p.18

by Máire Jacqueline O’Callaghan

The Merging of Leather & Watches: It’s a Cinch p.27 by Máire Jacqueline O’Callaghan

Around the world in 80 watches p.32


Letter from the Editor

Though I have never thought of myself as one for routine, I realized the other day that my life is seemingly comprised of hundreds of them. Each and every morning, I repeat my ritual of opening my case that displays my timepieces—I then choose one that suits my activities, my chosen clothing or, as in most cases, my mood, and then move on to the next routine. It is then an assortment of routines that gets me on my way—from my choice of vehicle (the same brand every few years), the same brand of suits, the same brands of electronics, the same restaurants—all of these choices, though perhaps spread out over time, all correlate to a very routine life and lifestyle. But I have come to realize that routine is not a bad thing. It simply means that I have a multitude of repeatable “likes” that reflect who I am. It is those likes that are also firmly tied to the brands and quality that I have come to appreciate over the years. After all, isn’t choice of brand, esthetics, level of quality intertwined into our daily routine? It is these qualities that have brought us to this issue of TimePiece Magazine. As I sat down with our team to celebrate the launch of our first issue, it was clear that TimePiece had to be about much more than just watches. It had to reflect our lives, lifestyles, and routines. Thus, in this issue we are spotlighting the brands that drive us to repeatedly buy them, to admire them, and to use them daily as a part of who we are. I hope you enjoy this issue as much as we have enjoyed creating it—now if you’ll excuse me it’s time for my morning coffee .... right on time. Sincerely,

E. Mark Baran

3


Under Pressure by William Scott

The Art of Watch Pressurization and Testing If you’re anything like me, I’m a person that puts my watches through their paces. From cave diving, to surfing, to extreme temperatures, to extreme altitudes, my watch is often my lifeline back to the world. That said, have you ever wondered at the lengths watch manufacturers will go to ensure your timepiece can truly be that proverbial lifeline? Like any tool, a timepiece is both a refection of the job at hand, and that of the person wearing it. Thus, it’s important to note that when it comes to choosing a watch with the appropriate pressure rating—make sure it’s designed to do all the things you want it to do. After all, the wrong tool for the job rarely ends in success.


The depths that you go to

Do you know the difference between a watch that is “water resistant” versus one that is so-called “waterproof”? The fact is that the majority of watches are broken down into classifications— consequently, the concept of truly waterproof is mostly a myth as everything has its breaking point. It’s the classifications that determine the degree of depth that the watch can safely operate. The other important point to remember is that any posted waterresistant rating on a timepiece is based on the best conditions in a laboratory setting—chances are your timepiece as it ages, even on the shelf at the store, can experience degraded gaskets, seals, etc. And, of course, let’s not forget real-world experience. The activities that you and your watch have experienced together can affect its performance—as Indiana Jones once said, “It’s not the years, honey, it’s the mileage.” So once a year get a professional to inspect your timepiece.

More than a sum of its parts

Did you know that there are three main determining factors when it comes to ensuring water resistance on a watch?

Case Backs

Case backs can differ drastically in this modern age of technical timepieces. From glass, to steel, to space-age materials—all these can play a part in the rating of the watch. Additionally, how they attach to the watch is also a major factor.

1. Snap-on Case Backs

These are placed on the watch by a snapping procedure that seals the watch by pressure. The problem with this type of watch is that any minor damage to the case, seals, gaskets, etc., can result in a catastrophic failure. For example, last month on a mountain adventure in the back country, my good friend used a bug spray with too much DEET. The chemical in the bug spray melted the plastic snap-on case, thus rendering the watch completely useless. The moral to this story: avoid snap-on case backs and plastics.

watertight seal. As mentioned earlier, these can begin to erode over time so getting it checked can save your timepiece from an untimely end.

The reality of real-life conditions

Like anything, there is true reality and then there is the manufacturer’s reality. Watches for the most part aren’t necessarily put through their paces—at least not the way we put them through their paces. Instead, they are manufactured and tested in the most optimal of conditions, ones where the timepiece is cradled carefully, tested in a perfect tank devoid of waves, rocks, extreme temperatures, and gear banging around it—and then rated appropriately for what is most optimal in the laboratory. Therefore, you need to consider these so-called extremes when choosing and using a watch. Additionally, keep in mind the two main ways of testing a watch— the dry test and the wet test. In a wet test, the watch is placed in a chamber and the air pressure is increased. The machine detects the smallest variation in the case size. If the case expands, even slightly, then the watch is not water resistant. Conversely, the wet test is when the watch is placed in a chamber that is half filled with water and half filled with air. Air pressure is increased while the watch is out of the water, then the watch is slowly immersed into the water. Once the watch is completely immersed, the air pressure is slowly released. If bubbles come out of the watch it means that air seeped into the watch before immersion and the watch is not water resistant. As mentioned, the concept of water-resistant versus waterproof is one of great debate. But also as stated, everything has its breaking point. This is why the U.S. Federal Trade Commission (the governing body that enforces truth-of-advertising) has deemed the term “Waterproof” as inappropriate. As quoted from the FTC, “The word proof connotes a measure of absolute protection that unfortunately does not exist with respect to watches, especially over prolonged periods of time.” So keep that in mind the next time you go shopping for a watch or hunting for Sasquatch.

2. Screw-on Case Backs

Having a watch with the case back attached with screws delivers a much better and tighter seal. That said, these watches are still only really meant for swimming and light immersion—not something that you trust in a diving situation.

A watch-wearers guide to water resistance

With so many options and variables, we thought we’d give you a quick guide as to what level of water resistance you should look for when buying a watch.

3. Screw-in Case Backs

Simply put, the backs are actually threaded and screwed directly into the case itself, creating a double seal and giving you a watch that can take you to new depths—both figuratively and literally.

Crowns aren’t just for Kings and Queens

Besides the pun of royalty being incredibly important—Britain, I’m looking in your direction—when it comes to water resistance the watch’s crown is the single most important factor when creating and ensuring a watertight seal. This is primarily due to the stem, the part of the watch used to adjust the time, etc. As it’s used, the gaskets can be compressed, stressed, etc., thus causing a possible vulnerability in the watch as a whole. The best option here is to buy a watch with a screw-down crown. This ensures that any movement or stress in the stem is covered with a redundant system, leaving you free to breath easy ... again, another pun, sorry.

The art of sealing the deal

The last piece of the puzzle is the gasket, or the “O” rings. These are traditionally made of a rubber compound, Teflon, or in some cases nylon. It’s this integral piece of the puzzle that ensures the

No Rating to 30m/99ft.

Not meant for contact with water.

30m/99ft to 50m/165ft.

Meant for contact with water such as washing hands and maybe a light rain.

50m/165ft to 100m/330ft.

A kiddie pool is acceptable.

100m/330ft to 200m/660ft.

Okay, go for a swim, take a bath— but not in hot water.

200m/660ft to 500m/1650ft.

Put on a scuba tank and have fun.

500m/1650ft + -

Now you’ve got a serious watch. May we call you Mr. Cousteau?

5


Introducing

BeoVision Avant Exquisite imagery and iconic sound, united through the beauty of movement.

7


”We’ve fine-tuned the sound with our custom signal processing software that filters the audio in about 40 different frequency bands. Each frequency band is adjusted with surgical precision.”

Sound

‘Tonmeister’, Geoff Martin, Bang & Olufsen

Intriguing

Unfolding sound

BeoVison Avant is a celebration of movement. An unforgettable fusion of Ultra High-Definition (4K) picture and iconic Bang & Olufsen sound, that unfolds before your very eyes.

Redefining TV sound

Ground-breaking impact

Precision tuned to Bang & Olufsen’s most exacting standard, BeoVision Avant redefines the audio impact a TV can deliver. The 3-channel speaker system harnesses three dedicated tweeters, three midrange units and two powerful bass drivers. The result is a fusion of clarity and power that truly embodies Bang & Olufsen’s commitment to ultimate sound.

Immersive dialogue

Authenticity

The dedicated centre speaker sits directly below the screen, enhancing the connection between you and the actors with exceptional clarity of speech. You will hear even the smallest details in the dialogue and nuances in the soundscape – allowing you to become fully immersed in the story. Enjoy experiences as they were meant to be.

Stunning stereo perfor mance

Integrated freedom

Hidden inside the sleek, minimalist exterior lies a truly groundbreaking, fully integrated sound system. Whether you are listening to integrated music services such as Spotify or Deezer, or accessing countless internet radio stations, you can now enjoy all your favourite tunes in one place – a truly liberating solution with iconic Bang & Olufsen acoustic performance.


3-channel stereo sound

A landscape of sound

While you can always add additional speakers to fully customise your soundscape, the built-in 3-channel stereo is more than powerful enough to transform your living space.

Flexible surround

BeoVision Avant manages your speaker output depending on your setup and taste. In a full surround setup with two additional front speakers, a subwoofer and two rear speakers, BeoVision Avant devotes all its built-in drivers to dialogue. Alternatively, BeoVision Avant can replace the two additional front speakers by splitting its own drivers into dedicated right, left and centre channels. For the most flexible and discreet full-surround setup incorporate our Immaculate Wireless Sound speakers for multi-channel wireless audio.

Automatic Speaker Calibration

Bespoke sound

BeoVision Avant lets you configure multiple speakers to precisely tailor sound depending on the room and listening position. You can further optimise and refine these individual sound zones using the included microphone.

9


Picture Ultra High-Definition (4K)

The art of imagery

Every BeoVision Avant is meticulously tested and perfected at our factory, an exquisite process of technology and refinement that delivers Ultra High-Definition (4K) imagery with unrivalled impact.

Adaptive contrast

The perfect black

Even when the screen is bathed in full daylight, the adaptive contrast algorithm ensures pitch-black shadows so your eyes can enjoy the experience without strain. Experience the difference for yourself by visiting your nearest Bang & Olufsen store.

Local dimming

Contrasted imagery

Experience the most extreme sports or action footage with crystal sharp, dynamic precision. The Ultra High-Definition screen combines local dimming across more than 8 million pixels, bringing out the tiniest details in the action.


Picture modes

Eye-opener

The Adaptive mode of BeoVision Avant constantly and automatically adjust the picture, but you can also select among dedicated settings that allow you to optimise your viewing experience for advanced gaming, watching your favourite film or projecting external media.

Movie

Director’s cut

When you watch a film, BeoVision Avant automatically adjusts colour temperature to 6500 Kelvin, giving you the truest possible vision of what the director and cinematographer intended.

Game

Monitor

Reflex technology

Connect a game console and immerse yourself in a universe of speed and agility. Enjoy lightningfast screen refresh to match your instincts, as you journey through worlds with unsurpassed depth and detail.

Vivid memories

Relive your favourite family moments with stunning, big screen impact. BeoVision Avant lets you import photos and video directly via your mobile device (DLNA), USB or wireless network.

Antireflection coating

Crafted materials

BeoVision Avant dampens disturbing screen reflections by more than 98% by using high-grade anti-reflection coating on the front and rear surfaces of the flawless, dual-layer reinforced glass.

11


Design Discretion

Precision choreography

Designer Torsten Valeur wanted to design a TV that only revealed its true potential, when needed. The stunning sound that distinguishes BeoVision Avant as something truly special is therefore incorporated into the very act of switching it on.

Seamless coordination

On the floor

The floor stand gives BeoVision Avant incredible flexibility, allowing it to gracefully pivot up to 90 degrees from the wall in order to reach its optimal viewing angle.


Discreet presence

On a table

The table stand slightly tilts the BeoVision Avant 55� back, leaving the screen floating above the table and hiding the stand from the eye. The TV comes to life by lifting to an upright position, allowing the speakers below the screen to unfold.

Flowing transitions

An eye for detail

The design philosophy of BeoVision Avant celebrates smooth, natural transitions. The seamless flow of the glass screen into the high-gloss, black anodised aluminium frame is a feat of incredible subtlety and detail.

Wall decoration

On the wall

BeoVision Avant mounts elegantly on the wall and, despite its size, pivots serenely up to 60 degrees from its starting position.

Seamless beauty

Our attention to detail also applies to the rear part of BeoVision Avant. A sleek, minimalist delight that hides connectors, unsightly card readers, vents, screws and cables out of sight, including a dedicated compartment for your Apple TV.

13


Innovation Prog ression design

Defining mechanics

The distinctive beauty in the movement of BeoVision Avant is the culmination of fearless design and innovation.

One beautiful movement

89 years of craft

Every Bang & Olufsen design has been a step forward, and each iteration has lead up to the BeoVision Avant – 89 years of craft in one beautiful movement.

Automatic bass adaptation

Constant bass optimisation A speaker’s distance to the nearest wall has a dramatic influence on the depth and impact of its low-end output. To counter this effect when the TV is mounted on the motorised wall bracket, Bang & Olufsen’s specialist acoustic and sound engineers developed Automatic Bass Adaptation. This ensures optimised bass performance by constantly adjusting low-end speaker output according to its relative position from the wall.

Chromatic Room Adaptation

Adaptive sensitivity A primary sensor evaluates the intensity of light in front of BeoVision Avant, and a secondary sensor measures lighting and hue behind the screen. Using this collective data, BeoVision Avant constantly adjusts white balance to deliver incredible visual impact, with colour-saturated, vivid imagery.


BeoRemote One

Intuitive simplicity

At Bang & Olufsen, we insist on providing intuitive and easy access to the experience with only one remote. BeoRemote One is the embodiment of this philosophy.

One-touch access

MyButtons are dedicated buttons that allow you to revisit your favourite internet radio stations, TV channels or custom setups with a single touch.

Personal touch

When you place your BeoVision Avant order you can add a personal touch by engraving your BeoRemote One with your family name, the name of the room or any other message up to 29 characters in length. Available later this year

Iconic feel

BeoRemote One is crafted from a single, extruded piece of aluminium. The solid, ergonomic design is so perfectly weighted you won’t want to put it down again.

Trigger reflexes

The powerful infrared transmitter makes your remote instantly responsive, even with your back to the TV.

15


Sound has never looked so good. The new BeoVision Avant is an Ultra High-Definition, 4K Smart TV with iconic sound that is the culmination of 89 years of fearless design and innovation. The result is a fusion of clarity and power that truly embodies Bang & Olufsen’s commitment to immaculate vision and sound. Experience it in store today. Starting MSRP: $7,995* For more information please visit us at: Bang & Olufsen Austin 217 W. 2nd Street Austin, Texas 78701 512-215-8223

*MSRP for BeoVision Avant 55" includes BeoRemote One. Price excludes placement option on either wall, table or floor. Mounting options start at $895. Energy class C.


Now Available at

ADMIRAL’S CUP REINVENTED, BREAKING THE WAVES FOR MORE THAN 50 YEARS www.corum.ch

CorumUSA_ACOne_8,5x11.indd 1

05.03.14 10:58


The Making of a Watchmaker Where the journey begins


I

magine going on a vacation with your family and finding your vocation in life.

That’s what happened to Bas Quadaekers four years ago at age 16. In Austria, close to the border of Liechtenstein, his family had rented a cottage to hike the Alps, to enjoy the beauty of the mountains, and to visit various landmarks and cities. On one of these trips, he discovered his future. “I visited the city of Vaduz in Liechtenstein, and while I was strolling through the city I saw the name Rolex above the entrance of a shop. I had heard of the brand and decided to take a look at what they had on display,” said Bas. “To my surprise, the watches were priced quite a lot higher than I expected, after all most of those watches were made of stainless steel—I couldn’t quite figure out why they were so expensive.” On returning home, Bas satisfied his curiosity. He researched not only the Rolex brand, but also many other high-end watch brands on forums and online magazines. His first “encounter” with a Rolex fine timepiece had led him to wanting a watch, and finding the right one. While searching, he discovered that he loves classic, timeless designs. What he found and what he learned heightened his interest—he was hooked into the world of horology, into the study and science of time and time keeping. As he continued exploring to gain an understanding of the mechanical internal parts of watches, and how they can be improved in terms of accuracy and ways to reduce friction, he was led to his desire to become a watchmaker.

From High School to Horology Education

Since his vacation, Bas has pursued his decision to become a watchmaker. “Three years ago I graduated high school and my grades were good enough for watchmaking college, but I wasn’t ready to live on my own yet,” explained Bas. “I was 17 back then and because I have a light form of autism I needed a little more time to become independent than others do, so I did another three years of high school.” As he further explained, continuing with high school for another three years is a fairly common practice in the Netherlands as students receive a new diploma, enabling them to upgrade their college or university.

To Vakschool Schoonhoven

With his new diploma, Bas was admitted to one of the finest clock and watch schools in the world: Vakschool Schoonhoven, Netherlands. It is the only school in the Netherlands where you can be trained as a gold or silversmith, jeweler or watchmaker. Students from around the world go to Vakschool Schoonhoven, not only from Germany and Belgium, but also from Denmark, Switzerland, France and Japan. Bas will study just 200 miles northwest of where he currently lives, with no significant difference in size and population between his hometown and Schoonhoven—except for one. It will be the first time he will live independently of his parents, the first time he is on his own. As he said, “My summer vacation will be spent moving my stuff to my new apartment in Schoonhoven, and in September my watchmaking journey will begin—I am very, very excited.”

Bas will be living and studying in an ancient city—it was granted a municipal charter in 1281. Schoonhoven, the Silver City as it is known, is situated in the western Netherlands, in the province of South Holland. Despite its ancient origins, once you enter the city through the medieval gate, the Veerpoort next to the river Lek, and pass inside the grey, stone walls, the city has the feel of a college town. Schoonhoven is a fascinating place to spend four years learning the art of watchmaking. Since visiting the Rolex shop in Vaduz, Bas’ interest in timepieces and his desire to become a watchmaker has never wavered. He has demonstrated his dedication to his chosen profession and is prepared for the serious study, hands-on training and thousands of hours of classroom and benchwork. He’ll be spending four years balancing the time-honored traditions of watchmaking while also mastering today’s technology such as the use of silicon and other new materials, the use of magnets, the co-axial escapement, and the various constant force mechanisms. Horology is an endlessly absorbing and thought-provoking field.

Where the journey ends

In September, Bas starts his watchmaking career at Vakschool Schoonhoven. “When I have finished my four-year course I am officially a watchmaker, then I can apply for a job in Switzerland,” concluded Bas. “Preferably, I’d love a career as a watchmaker at Patek Philippe.” When you look at the history of Patek Philippe, you can understand why Bas would love to join the company. Since 1839 without interruption, Patek Philippe has been perpetuating the tradition of Genevan watchmaking. As the last family-owned independent watch manufacturer in Geneva, it enjoys total creative freedom to entirely design, produce and assemble what experts agree to be the finest timepieces in the world—following the vision of its founders Antoine Norbert de Patek (1839) and Adrien Philippe (1845). The making of a master watchmaker takes many years of study, dedication, and a passion for the intricate workings of watches—from the mechanical watch with its wound-up spring invented around the mid1500s, to a quartz watch with its dependency on electricity invented in the 1960s. Although the mechanical watch industry expired with the introduction of quartz watches, since 1983 the Swiss mechanical watch industry has re-emerged as the world’s leading exporter, in monetary terms, of timepieces. For Bas his journey’s end is far in the future. But between now and then, he’ll be learning to blend art and science, and to work with the smallest tools to create pieces of inward and outward beauty. It’s a profession that requires determination and diligence, imagination and innovation, passion and patience. It’s a perfect place for Bas. We wish him well.

19


TANGENTE 38 MSF

Simple. Elegant. Perfect.

512.732.2408 3520 BEE CAVE ROAD, AUSTIN, TX 78746

W W W. J A C K R YA N J E W E L R Y. C O M


The Merging of Leather & Watches: It’s a Cinch by By Máire O’Callaghan Greg Stevens loves his job and believes his products reflect that. His job started when the passion he had for nice leather and watches merged in the summer of 2005. Blessed with large wrists, standard leather straps didn’t fit. At that time, you couldn’t find many custom options; therefore, after several disappointing experiences with some aftermarket, off-the-shelf products, Greg decided to build his own custom watch strap. He paid a visit to a local leather shop, bought a couple of knives, some glue, some leather remnants, and went to work. After a few days, and several failed attempts, he ended up with something he could wear. His design philosophy is straightforward, just two words: simplicity and functionality. His products are well made, simple and classic. To create his products he uses the highest quality materials and time honored, old-world techniques. He likes to think that his watch straps and other items have character, substance, and functionality. He also feels they are a nice departure from a world full of sterile, mass-produced, machine-made products that you see everywhere, every day. Today, he is proud to say that he has sold thousands of straps and other items to thousands of satisfied collectors from all walks of life, living all over the world. While his passion has evolved from a simple hobby into a full-time business, he considers himself an enthusiast first and pursues his business from that perspective. He still gets excited about finding new leathers and developing new products, such as Mizu’s custom-made dog collar. Greg doesn’t want you to just like his products, he wants you to love them. Here is a marvelous selection of his products. We hope you love them as much as we do.

23


Greg loves Horween leathers and probably 80% of his products are made from this leather. He loves it because he likes the old-world feel, believing it feels like leather should.

Hickory bridle leather

I really like my wallets. Had an epiphany several years ago when I was cleaning out my wallet and found a gas station receipt that was over two years old. So I built my own simple wallet to simplify my life. I call this design the V2 Slimmer. Single pocket with a quick access slot on the back. Will easily hold your license, 2-3 credit cards and a half dozen business cards. Most people don’t need to carry more than that.

Here are a few of Greg’s favorite product pictures. He’s worn a watch for as long as he can remember and, though he may not have the largest or most expensive watch collection, he’s pretty happy with what he has.

This strap is made from Horween Coffee Dublin with a bronze thread. I took a torch to the buckle to give it that great bronze/blued coloration.

Greg likes to re-purpose vintage materials whenever possible. This strap is built from 50+ year-old Swedish ammunition pouches. Smells like leather, machine oil, and gun powder. His brother says it smells like history. Greg loves the character, and says it’s impossible to reproduce.

I like to mix up the materials from time to time. In this case, 100% wool felt on the front, Horween leather on the back. Call this one the Wooly Slimmer.

I started out building watch straps but didn't take long to expand to other offerings. My belts are pretty nice. I call this my Standard Belt. Built from a single layer of thick bridle leather. Clean design that should last for many years.


From time to time, Greg’s customers send him pictures. He loves it when his customers enjoy his products. He had a lot of fun with this project and he loves this picture of the dog collar he made for his friend Luke’s dog, Mizu.

25


GREG STEVENS DESIGN

w w w. gregstevens - design . c o m


27


Panerai Luminor Marina 005 at the Snake Farm

Rolex Daytona tubing on the river.

Custom Pocket Watch Fob for Panerai

Rolex Daytona in the pool.

Panerai Luminor Marina 005 with my new goat friend trying to eat the strap.

Cartier Santos at a Resort on the lake.

Rolex Daytona at sunset

Bell & Ross 02 Phantom flying helicopter

Paneria 320 with a Lambo


Rolex Submariner at the pool

Bell & Ross 02 Phantom enjoying a beer and view poolside

Bell & Ross Flyback out on the boat.

Rolex Submariner cheering on my team during World Cup.

Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed and the electric bull.

Bell & Ross Flyback about to head out on the pane.

d l r o w e h t d n Arou watches in 80 Serie #2 s 29


SPOTLIG


HT

31


FINE, BUT DIFFERENT

The watches made in Glashütte are world famous. The village’s watchmaking companies are amongst the world leaders in fine watchmaking. The designers, watchmakers, and toolmakers here can do things their colleagues elsewhere would struggle to do because watches have been made in Glashütte for many generations—since 1845, in fact. Watches with unique features that can only be found here. Watches of the highest quality. NOMOS Glashütte (170 employees, a number of patents, more than 100 awards for watchmaking performance and design) is the watchmaking firm in the town that—despite all its tradition, all its watchmaking expertise—ticks a little differently. Restrained, cosmopolitan, contemporary: This is NOMOS Glashütte.

PROTECTED: THE GLASHÜTTE DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN

Only the designation of a few products around the world are as strictly protected as watches from Glashütte. To emphasize these stringent quality standards, the appellation was placed under special protection: Only companies that create at least 50 percent of the value of a watch’s caliber in Glashütte may benefit from the reputation of this “center of excellence” and offer their timepieces as “Glashütte watches.” The fact that NOMOS Glashütte actually builds up to 95  percent of each movement in Glashütte, far exceeding the required 50 percent, is therefore particularly pleasing.


NOMOS Spotlight

BUILT IN-HOUSE

A mechanical watch lives and dies by its movement. The make-up of the caliber determines the quality of a watch’s craftsmanship and decides whether a producer can call itself a manufactory or not. Since the movements are what lie at the heart of its watches, NOMOS Glashütte constructs them itself. Nothing can be taken for granted in the world of watches, not even cases with timepieces that are much more expensive than those at NOMOS: There are less than 20 manufactories worldwide. Between 75 and 95 percent of a NOMOS watch’s value is added directly in Glashütte—an extremely high amount, since the law only stipulates a minimum of 50 percent in order to qualify for the Glashütte label. It is only certain specific pieces, such as the rubies used as jewel bearings or the Nivarox 1a balance springs, that our manufactory must obtain from third parties. At NOMOS, production is carried out according to the criteria of the Deutscher Werkbund. The utilization of modern lasers and CNC machines is supplemented with a high level of handcraft, which rests on a century long tradition of watchmaking. Whether in manually wound or automatic movements, the fine perlage (circular grain finish) and polish of the components ensure that it is always a pleasure to observe the watch’s inner workings through its sapphire crystal glass back. Furthermore, all NOMOS calibers are famed for their extraordinary precision—they are adjusted in six positions in order to achieve the best results. With our new gold collection models, Lambda and Lux, we are demonstrating that we can do even more. We are producing these special timepieces, in which all our ambition is placed, in our Atelier. And to make their quality clear, these calibers are engraved with the designation of origin “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte”—or DUW for short. These are pieces of watchmaking art: swan neck fine adjustment, fine sunbeam polishing, screwed gold chatons, beveled edges, twin mainspring barrels and so a power reserve of three and a half days. The name of Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte stands for a whole range of fine watchmaking expertise. All of our skills and specialties over the years have now been concentrated in our two new calibers DUW 1001 and DUW 2002. They are the first new products from the NOMOS Atelier—and set the tone for the whole collection.

Editor’s Note

I had the opportunity to get acquainted with Bas a few years ago, when he became the first subscriber to my YouTube watch review channel. He conveyed a genuine interest in watches and things horological; was kind enough to point out some of the early production problems in my videos; and even designed a logo for my channel. We have stayed friends over the years, and I am probably as excited as he is to see him formally begin his watchmaker’s education. So our purpose in introducing you to him in these pages is simply a beginning. We intend to keep up with his progress at Vakschool Schoonhoven with regular articles every issue from here on out. I hope you will enjoy reading of his progress in future issues. Mark Baran

33


Timepiece Magazine Issue 2  
Read more
Read more
Similar to
Popular now
Just for you