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Mother’s Day 2013
TH O IN B
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This month in São Paulo 15 May-14 June 2013
Around Town48 The 24-hour Virada Cultural festival
is back with round-the-clock music, film, dance and more.
The word on the street, the perfect São Paulo weekend and the best of what’s coming up online.
Art 50 British curator Charles Esche on
Features SP in focus
Out of office
planning next year’s Art Bienal, and tapping into the city’s pulse.
Film 53 Director Terence Davies on his
American photographer Alexandra Henry takes to the streets of SP.
latest film, The Deep Blue Sea.
With remote working on the rise, co-working spaces have thrown a lifeline to entrepreneurs, ER COV RY freelancers and mobile O T S workers. We uncover the best hot-desks in town, plus cafés with Wi-Fi for getting the job done.
Gay & Lesbian57 São Paulo’s 17th Gay Pride parade is set in motion as a new, grassroots equal-rights campaign gets underway.
Food & Drink Ten hot new spots
Music & Nightlife
From cheap Thai to fancy French and gourmet burgers, there’s something for everyone in our round-up of ten of the city’s newest restaurants to open.
Shopping & Style
Football Walter Casagrande’s new
A downtown jazz joint reopens as Jazz B, from the team behind Jazz nos Fundos. Plus, discover the city’s urban coffee plantation.
SP Essentials 63 Essential information for visitors, Drip feed Fettuccine with veal, at the new Rouge Bar à Vin
Get face to face with independent designers at this indoor market, lending a laid-back vibe to the chic Rua Oscar Freire.
Cover design Bia Gomes
and a handy city map. Also, join us on Instagram for a chance to see your pix in print.
Quote of the month
I think people are a bit tired of the new. New has proved to not be very new at all. I don’t think we need to once again announce that we’re going to reinvent the idea of the Bienal.
Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.
autobiography, plus Brazil’s answer to the vuvuzela.
leo feltran/Press Image
Bars & Cafes
Seven things you never knew about Cat Power. Tune into worldclass musicians, in town for the BMW Jazz festival.
Tetris An urban SP view, snapped by photographer Alexandra Henry
Charles esche, curator of the 2014 Bienal See page 50
6 timeout.com/sao-paulo May 2013 100 CONTENTS bia9May.indd 6
IN JUNE SAO PAULO WILL BE BLUE
TAJ MAHAL DR JOHN SHEMEKIA COPELAND
DAY 11 BUDDY GUY DR JOHN
JOHN MAYALL CHRIS CORNELL BUDDY GUY JOHN MAYALL TAJ MAHAL SHEMEKIA COPELAND NUNO MINDELIS
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to satudarday – 10am to 10pm | sunday and holidays - 2pm to 8pm • Shopping Villa Lobos -
– 10am to 10pm | sunday and holiday - 2pm
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The big picture
Valley life A DIY precursor to the Virada Cultural (see Around Town), the Anhangabaú Da Feliz Cidade festival took over the Vale de Anhangabaú on 4 May, drawing a crowd made up of the in-the-know via Facebook, the just passing by, and the ‘we’re here all the time’ – members of the city’s homeless community. They mixed in to enjoy more than 60 live bands, pop-up burlesque, a breakdance show-down, and into-the night parties by Santo Forte and Carlos Capslock.
Letter from the editor São Paulo has always been a city in motion, with a greater tendency than most to reinvent itself, decade after decade and year after year. Its office-block skyline and the scarcity of surviving historic buildings is testament to that. Alexandra Henry’s stunning photos in this issue, which initiate a monthly series of photo essays by some of our favourite photographers, are a living reminder of the über-urban look of the city, complete with
traces of its very human heart. Because beyond surface appearance, there’s something in the zeitgeist, that’s about a different kind of reinvention: a drive to repopulate the city’s often barren public spaces with human life and colour, focusing attention at street level, for a change. We wrote about it last month in a cover story (see right) and we witnessed it again this month in the free festival that took place in the
Vale de Anhangabaú (see above). Another shift locally corresponds to the worldwide trend for more flexible, mobile working styles. We’re tripping over start-ups and entrepreneurial types, both foreign and local, everywhere we go lately. So we’ve delved into the city’s co-working spaces and Wi-Fi cafés – we’re talking free Wi-Fi, naturally – to discover the pick of the bunch.
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Vanessa Bumagny Singer-songwriter vanessabumagny.com.br timeout.com/sao-paulo
We ask paulistanos what they like to do on their days off
press image(vanessa); edu albarello/Press image (friday); mlsirac/Flickr (saturday); Nelson Kon/press image (Sunday)
My perfect weekend
Time Out São Paulo is published by Editora Dansville Ltda. Rua Valdir Niemeyer 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brasil. Tel +55 (11) 3071 3309 Email firstname.lastname@example.org
Publisher Silvio Giannini
‘For me, the perfect place for dinner on a Friday is Bar Astor, in Vila Madalena. The food is amazing – I love the steak tartare – the waiters are nice and the caipirinhas, if you’re in the mood, are delicious. Or if I want to feel like one of the actresses from Sex & The City, I might drift downstairs to SubAstor for a cocktail.’
‘A great place to spend a Saturday afternoon is Praça Roosevelt – it gets packed during the day, and it’s great for people-watching. There are lots of theatres in the area, so I might take in a play in the evening – at Parlapatões, Teatro Revista, or Satyros, where you can stick around for a drink with the actors afterwards.’
‘I love the Pinacoteca – I love its architecture, the light, and the café in the garden. After that, SESC Pompeia: they have the best shows in town. You don’t even need to know who’s playing – it’s always good. The concerts at the theatre are wonderful, but if you want a drink and maybe a dance, the Choperia is best.’
Coming up online
Design Art and Picture Editor Bia Gomes Print Production Gráfica Aquarela Contributors Text Kim Taylor Bennett, Maria López Conde, A.A. Dowd, David Fear, Anna Fitzpatrick, Sophie Harris, James Manning, Joshua Rothkopf, Ben Walters Photos Alexandra Henry
Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309, ext. 18 Marketing & New Business Director Virgínia Castro Administration Finance Director Gregório Correa de Ávila Finance Analyst Sueli Maria da Silva
josé cordeiro/sp turis
Lenise Pinheiro/Press image
Rio de Janeiro Editor (English) Doug Gray Editor (Portuguese) Alice Moura
Advertising (11) 3071 3309, ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Regiane Alves, Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro, Marcella Souza, Sandra Zanon National Sales Representative Dreyfus Soares – (11) 6444 1165
são Paulo timeout.com/sao-paulo
Borboleta Azul Head to the heart of downtown São Paulo to catch an extended run of this play. Until 30 Aug. j.mp/TOSP_bazul
Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Deputy Editor (English) Catherine Balston Deputy Editor (Portuguese) Marina Monzillo Contributing Assistant Editors Juan Cifrian, Elisa Ureña Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Sarah LeBaron von Baeyer, Mariana Leite Proofreader and Online Editor (Portuguese) Fabiana Caso
Parada Gay It’s big, it’s loud
Festa do Imigrante Music, dance and glorious food from SP’s many immigrant communities. 2,8,9 June. j.mp/TOSP_fdoi
and it’s proud – it’s SP’s Gay Pride. Check out our pick of the events. 2 June. j.mp/TOSPGLS
Time Out São Paulo is published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD Cathy Runciman International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins
Rio de janeiro timeout.com/rio/en
World Press Photo The
global photography contest brings the work of 54 finalists to Rio. 21 May-23 June. bit.ly/Zy2mqL
No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all.
Wei Seng Chen/Press image
Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.
The Billabong Surf Pro
Kelly Slater is among the pros chasing this year’s US$500,000 prize. 8-19 May. bit.ly/17vOPli
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Corrida da Ponte Join the 21km race that takes in the dramatic, bay-spanning bridge. 19 May. bit.ly/ZUcnyh
Printed in Brazil by Gráfica Aquarela Distributed by Euromag (11) 3473 9178
The key to our five-star rating system
We love it It’s great We like it Just tepid ... meh
May 2013 timeout.com/sao-paulo 9 200 CITY BEAT NEW_claire9May.indd 9
SP in focus
by Alexandra Henry
We kick off a new series of photo essays with a set of images and observations by a young American photographer, dividing her time between SP and NYC
two week visit, in 2011, was enough to convince the New York photographer Alexandra Henry that this was a city that could inspire her. She followed it up shortly after with a six-month stay, followed by numerous subsequent visits. ‘It’s taken me just under two years to start understanding this impressive megapolis,’ says Henry. Referencing photographers like Andreas Gursky, Michael Wolf and Candida Höffer, Henry's work focuses on urban landscapes, often from an elevated height. It benefits from a frank, cool gaze that shows the city in its sometimes ugly beauty: all straight
lines and few curves, and islands of colour amidst geometric swathes of grey. There’s a pluckiness and a scrappiness about SP as seen through her eyes; and in the constant clash between the human and the urban scale she portrays, the unmistakeable suggestion of hard lives eked out in what can be, especially for some, a hostile environment. Currently working on a photo project that documents the lives of two women graffiti artists, one in New York and one in São Paulo, from May-July Henry will also be working as an Instagram correspondent for the São Paulo gallery A Casa Branca, sending images from NYC to a real-time projection located inside the Perdizes gallery. Claire Rigby
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SP in focus
noWHERE MAN In high-rise apartment buildings and in the intricate networks of windows, glass and concrete, human presence in my images is absent or very distant at best. This lack of human subjects in, ironically, over-populated cities is a way to start a dialogue on how we create spaces for ourselves, and how we choose to live and relate to one another. This absence of people is precisely what I hope triggers viewers' imagination, leading them to question their own role in the urban environment.
Clockwise from facing page: Telephone cables; love hotel; Sampa pigeons take flight; Centro Telefónico with pixação graffiti
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SP in focus
EXPRESSWAY Everywhere I look in São Paulo, there's evidence of people trying to express themselves – in street art all over the walls, tucked under bridges, on the tops of apartment buildings. Each time I come, my eye is drawn to the architecture of the city, the graffiti, and the way one side of a street can look abandoned and the other completely new. I wonder who lives in these places, and I find myself taking pictures of their windows, as if later, when I look at the snapshot, I will magically be able to see inside.
Clockwise from top: Overpass on Avenida Prestes Maia; downtown apartment building; Tetris; green window on the Minhocão flyover
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OFFICE PRESS IMAGE
The age of the mobile worker has arrived, and with it an army of people seeking hot-desking spots. Anna Fitzpatrick plugs into São Paulo's best co-working spaces
T SOFA SO GOOD Sitting soft at the Brooklin co-working warehouse Plug N' Work
he 9-5 office day becomes ever more antiquated, as growing numbers of people embrace the home-office concept. But working from home isn't without its drawbacks – no one to chat to over coffee, no space to meet clients, and no one to fix the printer when it jams. Springing up all over São Paulo, co-working spaces cater to the city's growing number of mobile workers – they're a ready-made office solution for freelancers, start-ups and small companies without the hefty rental tag, and with the added bonus of the chance to network. ‘The number of co-working spaces is growing because there are more entrepreneurs,’ Ana Fontes, organiser of last month's entrepreneurs’ fair, the Virada Empreendedora, told us; ‘Brazil is much more enterprising today than it was 10 years ago.’ One of the speakers at the fair, Alykhan Karim, the US founder of online Brazilian wine retailer Sonoma. com.br, worked out of Ponto de Contato (see page 18) when he first arrived in São Paulo. ‘Co-working spaces are interesting mainly because you're with other entrepreneurs. And there have been a lot of foreign entrepreneurs arriving here over the last two-and-a-half years. Plus, now there are a lot of really cool Brazilian entrepreneurs doing interesting things as well.’ But it takes more than just a few desks and a wireless router to make a co-working space. Meeting rooms, refreshments and secretarial services usually come as standard, while start-ups seek added extras such as workshops, networking events and even mentoring and investment. Read on for our round-up of the best spaces across the city. And for those not willing or able to fork out for a desk, we bring you ten cafés with free Wi-Fi, as the perfect alternative for getting the job done.
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BELA VISTA & AVENIDA PAULISTA
There couldn't be a more convenient location than bustling Avenida Paulista for a hot-desking space to dash to between meetings, or to work round the clock in, when deadlines bite. The 24-hour Link2u is about location, location, location, just a stone’s thrown from Consolação metrô. And the view from the meeting room, out over Paulista's towers of power, is hard to beat. ‘It’s not the beach, but it’s the next best thing,’ says Tâmara Ferri Juliani who, together with her father Roberto, opened the first of Link2u's two units in March 2012. The two spaces, which can each seat around forty, are in the same building, and the vibe is one of lively concentration. Posters and trinkets collected on the owners' trips while abroad add character to an otherwise bland office space. Link2u also runs monthly networking events such as business breakfasts for people keen to share ideas and link up with others. Plans start at R$180 per month for 20 hours' desk time, which includes the use of a correspondence address, basic office equipment, and an hour of meeting-room time. Plans for two or more co-workers range from R$1,200-$1,500 per month, depending on numbers. Just in town for the day? Hot-desk for R$15 per hour. During typical office hours – 9am-6pm – a receptionist deals with post and phone calls, though the spaces can be accessed throughout the night, with prior agreement. The building has 24 hour security, too.
Link2u, Avenida Paulista 2202, 3rd Floor, Consolação (3253 7000/link2u.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Faria Lima. Open 24 hours daily. Prices desk per hour R$15; monthly plan from R$180 (20 hours) #metro #toplocation #24hour
Kate Stanworth/press image
Best for Round-the-clock access in a central location
Best for Start-ups and freelancers with a social or sustainable slant Part of a global network across thirty cities, The Hub was one of the first co-working spaces to open in São Paulo, and it now has two locations in the city: downtown on Rua Bela Cintra, and the newer space, upstairs at Ekoa café (see Café listings), in Vila Madalena. Much more than just a hot-desking hotspot, The Hub goes big on its philosophy of supporting innovation, sustainability and social entrepreneurship – independent financial advisors looking for an escape from their home office need not apply. Talks and events, hosted at one or other of the branches on an almost daily basis, help to foster a spirit of collaboration amongst its members. Those familiar with Hub venues around the world can expect a similar set-up: large tables arranged throughout a large open space, with playful circular windows and décor that strikes a balance between elegant and informal. Neither space matches the polished perfection of The Hub in London’s King’s Cross, however. The Wi-Fi connection, as you’d hope, is excellent, and bonus facilities include a kitchen, a separate dining area and a library of sustainable-themed reads. To eat, head round the corner to Sujinho (See Restaurant listings) for a meaty lunch, or nip across the road to the Nova Cintra bakery (Rua Bela Cintra 388) for something more modest. The atmosphere at the downtown location is dynamic and focused – there's a sense of purpose about the people working here. Use of the space can even be arranged on Saturdays for special events. Expect to share desk space with local start-ups like the bike courier company Carbono Zero Courier, and Samba Pix, who specialise in printing Polaroid-style photos. The success of the Bela Cintra space – membership numbers are up 25 per cent since the beginning of 2013 – sparked The Hub to open its second space, in Vila Madalena, which is open for Bela Cintra members to use as well as being the focal point for events, workshops and courses. ‘Vila Madalena is such an important neighbourhood in the city for creativity, sustainability and culture that we wanted a presence there,’ João Vitor Caires, The Hub's communications manager, told us. The Hub’s policy of requiring members to pay an annual membership (R$530) plus a monthly plan (prices start at R$75 for 10 hours desk time to R$800 for unlimited use) may not suit the needs of the more casual hot-desker. But there’s no clocking-in and clocking-out, however: the honesty policy relies on members to keep track of how many hours they have used. The Hub, Rua Bela Cintra 409, Consolação (3539 8574/saopaulo. the-hub.net). Other location Rua Fradique Coutinho 914 (2nd floor), Vila Madalena (2532 1584). Open Consolação branch 9am8pm Mon-Fri (and Saturdays upon request); Vila Madalena branch 10am-6pm Mon-Fri. Prices monthly plans from R$75 (10 hours) up to R$800 (unlimited use); annual membership R$530. #library #socialspirit #kitchen #globalnetwork
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VILA MADALENA & JARDINS
B4i Rubens Vieira/press image
Best for The all-singing, all-dancing office services, for those able to spend bigger bucks
Ponto de Contato
Opened in 2013, B4i is firmly placed at the premium end of the co-working spectrum – it's a no-expense-spared space in the heart of Jardim Europa. The sister company to communications agency Brain4Ideas, B4i has striking decor throughout, from its plant-covered façade to the exposed brick walls, glass-topped tables and colourful murals. Beyond the usual services, B4i goes the extra mile with a soon-to-open photography studio which will be available to hire for R$490 per day, as well as virtual office services: a commercial address and correspondence management for R$89 per month, or R$350 for a more personal plan including a telephone answering service. Members can choose a fixed spot for a R$1,430 monthly fee, or a hot desk from R$780. Private rooms are also available for short and medium rent. Extras such as meeting room hire and event space are charged additionally, as is parking and secure locker rental.
Best for Help with the lingo, and the Jardins location near shops and restaurants Popular with foreigners in town for short stints, as well as with longer-term locals, who cover a range of professions from architects to marketing gurus and developer whizzkids, Ponto de Contato is a light and airy space, with a friendly but serious work ethic; ‘people come here to work, after all,’ explains the co-owner Marcus Trugilho, ‘and they know the person next to them is doing the same.’ Trugilho speaks near-perfect English, and if he's on the premises, is usually happy to lend a hand with the odd phone call if a lack of Portuguese is a stumbling block. Fernanda Nudelman, Trugilho's partner, started Ponto de Contato over four years ago after missing the benefits of being with others in an office environment. And while the work space may be quiet, there are plenty of opportunities to socialise over a coffee break out on the roof terrace, or sinking into a sofa in the atrium. Desks can be rented by the hour, or as part of a monthly plan. Members clock-in and out using a biometric fingerprint system, which keeps track of hours used, as well as opening and closing the door.
B4i, Rua Groenlândia 808 and 848, Jardim Europa (3372 1717/b4i.com.br). Open 8am10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. Prices desk per month R$780-$1,430.
Ponto de Contato, Rua Augusta 2690, 3rd Floor, Galeria Ouro Fino (3063 2049/ ptodecontato.com.br). Open 9am-9pm Mon-Fri. Prices desk per hour from R$15; monthly plan R$250 (25 hours) up to R$2800 (720 hours); registration fee R$60. #roofterrace #englishspoken #couriers #fixedphonelines #meetingrooms
#receptionist #lockers #photostudio #commercialaddress #parking
Best for Working in the heart of artsy Vila Madalena This light, bright space in Vila Madalena is a newcomer to the co-working scene, and still gaining traction. But the space is friendly, attractive and well thought out. The downstairs rooms in the detached house have been knocked through to create a long, open office space with large tables. Outside is a pleasant courtyard-cum-social area and a kitchen, with a meeting room hidden away up a spiral staircase. Choose from one of eight plans, starting with the basic plan – an hourly desk-hire rate of R$16.50 – right through to a 900-hour-per-month group plan for up to six people (R$5,280). Plans exceeding 25 hours per month include the use of a commercial address, snacks and some secretarial assistance. Estação Coworking, Rua Mourato Coelho 957, Vila Madalena (3031 0026/estacao.co). Open 9am-9pm Mon-Fri. Prices desk per hour R$16.50 (R$15 til the end of July); monthly plan R$200 (25 hours) to R$935 (150 hours). #garden #tailormadeplans #brandnew #creativehood #groupplans
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Best for Start-ups looking for investment and business mentoring
North & South
There’s something of an entrepreneurial spirit to the warehouse set-up at Plug N' Work. With networking events, business advice, coaching and mentoring services all on offer in addition to the standard desk-rental, the space has become something of a hub for start-ups. ‘The idea behind Plug N’ Work is to create a network of people – an ecosystem of businesses and individuals,’ explains Jorge A. J. Pacheco, one of the co-founders of the Brooklin space. ‘We really believe that people and relationships are the key to good business.’ Pacheco and his two partners look for interesting start-ups in which to invest, making this spot an interesting draw for start-ups looking to take their business to the next level. There are nearly 50 workstations in the vibrant, colourful, former warehouse space, with more than 26 companies, individuals and start-ups currently plugged and working. Brooklin lacks the creative buzz of neighbourhoods like Vila Madalena, but it’s a thriving business district nonetheless, with bars and restaurants nearby and even a Bike Sampa bike rental rank just a couple of blocks away. Bonus facilities include a 50-seater auditorium, and spacious meeting rooms. Grab your laptop and sit soft in the lounge area or out in the garden – which picks up the Wi-Fi signal – when the sun is out. ‘Most people who work here are on longer-term contracts, which helps with building a community,’ Pacheco tells us. Hot-desking is available, however, and a desk will set you back R$45 per day. Monthly plans start at R$750, which includes four hours of meeting-room use. Should you want a more private place to work, there are glass-walled suites available upstairs, with space for up to three. Plug N' Work, Avenida Nova Independência 1061, Brooklin (5103 2209/plugnwork.com.br). Open 8am-10pm Mon-Fri; 8am-6pm Sat. Prices desk per day R$45; monthly plan from R$750 (12 hours, includes 4 hours of meeting room use); private room for up to 3 people from R$1,850. #coaching #mentoring #garden #auditorium #privateoffices #investmentopps
Plug N’ Work
MyHub Coworking @myhubcoworking Best for Affordable co-working in the north of the city
Set on a quiet residential street, just a few blocks from Santana metrô, and conveniently located for Shopping Center Norte and the Expo Center Norte convention centre, MyHub Coworking is a pioneer of co-working spaces in the north of the city, and counts PR and film production companies among its varied roster of professionals. Regular networking events and talks are a draw for some of the regular co-workers here. Patricia Kashima, of KSH Filmes, has been working at the space for more than a year now, and told us, ‘networking with people from all sorts of areas is, a massive advantage of working here.’ Plans start at R$50 for ten hours, all the way up to the full-time plan of R$600 with access to a fixed desk in the office, five days a week (the space opens on Saturdays if there's demand). Head just a few doors down for post-work drinks at the low-key bar-cum-craft-beer shop, Empório Laura Aguiar (Rua Doutor Gabriel Piza 559, Santana (2977 0471/ emporiolauraaguiar.blogspot.com).
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MyHub Coworking, Rua Doutor Gabriel Piza 577, Santana (2359 2422/myhub.com.br). Metrô 1, Santana. Open 9am-9pm Mon-Fri. Prices ten hour plan R$50; monthly plan R$600 per person or R$1600 for up to four people (unlimited hours). #metro #northzone #networking
START-U • Sema P EVENTS na Glob al de Empree nd Entrepre edorismo (Glo ba ne events a urship Week). A l round th e world to week of budding e 2013. s ntrepreneurs. 18 inspire em -2 • Virada anaglobal.org.b 4 Nov r E m p re e 24 hours ndedora pitching of talks, worksh ops, and netw o TBC. vira daempre rking. 2014 date endedora .com.br
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TEN WI-FI S É F A C
Have laptop? Can travel? Catherine Balston and Anna Fitzpatrick have uncovered ten of the best cafés in São Paulo for getting out of your home or hotel room, and jumping on a free Wi-Fi wave over a cup of coffee or three fee house a good choice for an afternoon's remote working. And the staff won’t raise an accusing eyebrow when you’re still sipping your delightful Guava Nevada smoothie – a semi-frozen glassful of raspberry, guava, soya milk and yogurt (R$16.80) – four hours later. The newer Itaim branch has more daylight, plus outside tables, as well as a quieter mezzanine space inside. Rua Oscar Freire 413, Jardim Paulista (3062 9294/santograo.com. br). Open 9am-1am Mon; 8am-1am Tue-Thu; 8am-2am Fri, Sat; 8am-midnight Sun. Price cafezinho R$5.10; sandwiches R$31.50-$39.50. Other location Rua Jeronimo da Veiga 179, Itaim Bibi (3071 3169).
Don’t be put off by its unprepossessing location inside the gourmet supermarket Quitanda; Dona Vitamina is a bright, colourful café with good Wi-Fi, and an excellent choice of healthy snacks. Start your working day with a plate of velvelty scrambled eggs (R$7-$9), a fruit smoothie (R$13), or a bowl of sweet açai (R$14) – but brace yourself for the lunchtime crowds. If you're running low on laptop battery, there are a number of sockets to plug into. Rua Mateus Grou 159, Pinheiros (3063 0582/donavitamina.com.br). Open 7am8.30pm Mon-Sat; 8am-6pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3-$4; sandwiches R$12-$19.
Escola SP The large, communal table in the covered courtyard at Escola São Paulo – a college that runs short courses in the creative arts – is more of a work spot with coffee than a café per se, but if you like to work in a bustling atmosphere, then this is a good bet, just a few blocks down from Avenida Paulista. Snacks and drinks are on the simple side – think coffee and pão de queijo (R$2.50). There are also computers available to use in the college library, so you can get some work done if you happen to find yourself in the area without a laptop. And, naturally, there's no shortage of books
should you be in need of a little inspiration or distraction. Rua Augusta 2,239, Consolação (3060 3636/escolasaopaulo.org). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9am-6pm Sat. Prices cafezinho R$4; sandwiches R$5.
Mundo Mundano Gallery, café, cultural centre, bookstore and magazine headquarters all rolled into one, this small, bright space in Pinheiros may have big ambitions for itself as a cultural hotspot, but for the time being it seems to be a well-kept secret. Which means there's a good chance you'll find a space. Free WiFi, tasty empanadas (R$6) and a decent selection of coffees – the mocha is good (R$4) – will fuel a few hours of focused work. And should you need a meeting room, there's one upstairs which can be hired for R$80 per hour (which includes credit for food and drink up to the value of R$80). Rua Mourato Coelho 25, Pinheiros (2359 7444/mundomundano.com.br). Open 9am-7pm Mon; 9am8pm Tue-Fri; 9am-4pm Sat. Prices cafezinho R$4.
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The sea of suits, talking business over frothy lattes and pastries, are testament to Octavio Café's status as São Paulo’s breakfast meeting spot of choice, conveniently located near the gleaming office towers on Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima. High ceilings, soft seats, the quality coffee and the substantial food menu are also part of the appeal. On the downside, if you're looking to spend a few hours here with a laptop, you'll need to register to use the free Wi-Fi – and you'll need a Brazilian CPF number to do so. There are also no power sockets to plug into. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2,996, Itaim Bibi (3074 0110/ octaviocafe.com). Open 7.30am-9.30pm MonFri; 9am-10pm Sat, Sun. Prices cafezinho R$6.50; sandwiches R$14.50-$42.
Santo Grão The gourmet Brazilian coffee, abundant power sockets, speedy Wi-Fi and some of the best people watching in town make this buzzy cof-
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the lunchtime rush. Rua Bianchi Bertoldi 130, Pinheiros (3034 5830/sofacafe.com.br). Metro 4, Faria Lima. Open 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$7.50-$26.
Oscar Café Head upstairs and into one of the red leather booths with mirrorred table tops at this chic café on the ultra-chic Rua Oscar Freire. Hook up to the Wi-Fi and, should you need to, take advantage of one of the plentiful power sockets. Bonus! The coffee here is good and we challenge you to resist the sugar rush from the desserts on display. There's also a space downstairs with more of a cigar bar vibe, complete with leather armchairs and cowhide rugs, should that be more your style. Rua Oscar Freire 727, Jardim Paulista (3063 5209/ oscarcafe.com.br). Open 10am-midnight MonSat; 10am-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.80; sandwiches R$23.30-$28.80.
Starbucks This international chain has branches all over São Paulo, and remains a reliable choice for coffee and a comfy chair. Registering for the Wi-Fi is a minor annoyance, not least since you'll need a Brazilian CPF number to do so. But once you’re hooked up, you can expect a solid signal. Early birds
can opt for one of the bargain breakfast combos (R$8.90), which include a coffee and either toast, a cream cheese bagel or pães de queijo (cheese breads). For space to spread out, head to the branch in Shopping Eldorado (see Shopping listings). You can’t beat the small Avenida Paulista branch, however, for sheer convenience. Avenida Paulista 1,499 (3171 3448/starbucks. com.br). Open 7am-10pm Mon-Fri; 8am-11pm Sat; 8am-8pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.80$4.90. Other locations Citywide.
A high-end local coffee chain, Suplicy has six branches across the city, where you can try (as well as buy) freshly roasted coffees from interesting Brazilian microlots. Head to the counter to order, and ask the friendly baristas for help if you’re baffled by the choice of brews. For unadulterated comfort, where even the name has been given a haughty upgrade, you can’t beat the newest branch – Café Littéraire by Suplicy Cafés – in the luxury shopping mall JK Iguatemi (see Shopping listings), with comfy leather sofas, built-in tables and push-button table service. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2,041, Vila Olímpia (3079 0461/suplicycafes. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; noon8pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$5-$12.20; sandwiches R$11.50-$18.90.
LUNA GARCIA/PRESS IMAGE
Vanilla Caffè You'll probably be arriving by taxi or car at this café, on one of São Paulo's busiest roads. But its location is convenient, just a stone's throw from the domestic-flights Congonhas airport, and near the business district of Brooklin. Not only is the Wi-Fi free, but there are plenty of plug points, and even rooms for business meetings (R$35 per hour – reservations via telephone or to email@example.com). Avenida Jornalista Roberto Marinho 2,076, Campo Belo (5093 1031/vanillacaffe.com. br). Open 8am-11pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$3.90; sandwiches R$8.90-$20.90.
Sofá Café A brightly painted, unpretentious café on a quiet Pinheiros street, just one block from the bustling Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, Sofá Café has a handful of tables – and sofas, naturally – at which to park up with a laptop. For a quieter spot, head to the communal table upstairs, or out to the leafy, covered backyard – both ideal for meetings, provided there’s space. Avoid
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Food & Drink
The best restaurants, bars and cafés
Eating Out Bars & Cafés
Chopping block The Frutaria, a newcomer to Jardins, keeps it healthy with a wholemeal chocolate brownie
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tadeu brunelli/press image
Ten hot new spots
Set your taste buds to ‘salivate’. Catherine Balston rounds up ten new restaurants set to open across São Paulo With new restaurants opening each week, it takes time and dedication, not to mention an expandable waistband and forgiving credit card, to keep track of SP’s latest dining hotspots. Whether you’re looking for a healthy bite for a post-gym reboot or to overindulge with a hunk of steak and a bottle of red, there’s bound to be something in São Paulo to satsify. Read on to discover ten new venues, opened in the last month or two. And if you get there before us, let us know what’s worth a visit and what’s not, through the comments on j.mp/TOSP_newre. Starting things off at the healthy end of the scale, the Frutaria (Rua Oscar Freire 187, Jardim Paulista, 3081 6464, frutariasaopaulo.com. br) looks set to cater to a crowd of gym bunnies and calorie counters.
A sister restaurant to the Frutaria in Vila Nova Conceição, a post-park weekend favourite just a skip and a hop from Parque do Ibirapuera, the new branch on swanky Rua Oscar Freire brings the same natural vibe, decked out in woods and an abudance of plants. The healthy hangout serves up the same bumper menu of juices and smoothies, light lunches (think tuna hamburgers, egg-white omelettes and the like) and a breakfast buffet at the weekend (8am-1pm). Fresh flavours are at the heart of Thai cuisine, and one of the most long-awaited openings this year – for the Time Out team at least – is Nama Baru (Rua Barão do Bananal 1227, Sumaré, 2548 7749, namabaru.com.br). We loved the zingy salads and the intense curries that the chef Ique Lopes whipped up in possibly the city’s smallest kitchen, in Nama Baru’s former incarnation as a lunch-only spot on busy Avenida Pompeia. Lopes and his wife Talita have scaled things up in every way possible at this new spot, just a few blocks away, and we’re itching
ta h food eurant reviewe latest vents sa com/ at timeo nd sao-pa u ulo t.
to go and check it out. Continuing the South East Asian theme, Tian (Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 36, Itaim Bibi, 2389 9399, tianrestaurante.com.br) is a sexy-looking new spot in Itaim. With its sharing-style dishes and urban vibe – all whitewashed brick and dramatic pink lighting – it does Itaim style to a tee, while the comprehensive menu has a crack at capturing South East Asia’s complex cuisine, with nods to Thailand, China, Japan, Korea and the Philippines in dishes like Chinese pork buns (R$18), crispy duck salad (R$22) and grilled picanha (rump steak) with Asian herbs (R$29). And all for refreshingly reasonable prices. Drawing a similarly glitzy crowd is the Itaim newcomer W Restaurante (Rua Campos Bicudo 141, Itaim Bibi, 3167 1034, wcontemporaneo.com.br). The restaurant’s upbeat, we-can-do-it website claims that W is creating ‘a new concept of restaurant’, describing São Paulo as ‘the
Avec moi Eat, drink and take away is the approach at Avek, a francophile restaurant, wine bar and wine shop
MORE ONLIN Keep E res up with t
Roll up Smoked salmon salad with toasted almonds (R$37.90) at the Frutaria
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Food & Drink New look O Pote do Rei has reopened as O Pote, following a radical makeover
world capital of gastronomy’. A glance at the menu turns up the likes of the Salada W – brie with leaves, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, croutons and a honey-and-mustard dressing (R$22), and salmon with passionfruit or caper sauce (R$30$32). So far, so run-of-the-mill. If you want to avoid the venue’s ambient house music, grab a spot at the open-air terrace out front. A few blocks away, Rouge Bar à Vin (Rua Mário Ferraz 561, Itaim Bibi, 2628 8377, rougebar. com.br) is a new addition to the city’s nascent enoteca trend, serving French wines (with around 30 options available by the glass, R$16-$29) and twists on bistro classics. We can’t wait to get our chops round the dreamysounding bolinho croque (R24.50) – a deep fried ball of ham, cheese and bechamel. Wine and French fare are the mainstay at Avek (Rua Joaquim Antunes 48, Pinheiros, 2507 5932), too – it’s a blend of restaurant, wine bar and wine shop. Work your way through a selection of wines as you tour the menu, devised by French chef Alain Uzan, starting with light dishes such as oysters (R$21-$28) ) or charcuterie (R$16), working up to a French classic like the steak tartare (R$38), and rounding off with macaroons with red berries (R$22). Zut alors! Just a few doors down, on the other side of Avenida Rebouças, O Pote (Rua Joaquim Antunes 224, Jardim Paulistano, 3068 9888) has been reborn in the place of the recently-closed Pote do Rei. It’s all change in an effort to breathe life into the location: new name, new
shoulder (R$38) with fregola (tiny round beads of pasta). A stalwart of São Paulo’s Italian scene, Sergio Arno has added another feather to his cap with La Quottidiana Trattoria & Rosticceria (Rua Doutor Jesuíno Maciel 710, Campo Belo, 5093 0773). The simple spot, with terracotta walls and red-chequered chairs, joins Arno’s medley of Italian eateries, which includes La Pasta Gialla, and doubles up as a deli, selling fresh pastas, sauces,
Lila Batista/press image
Wine and dine Rouge Bar à Vin joins SP’s emerging wine bar trend
See ya suckers Seafood is a staple on the menu at Itaim’s South East Asian outpost, Tian. Go for the grilled octopus
chef, new menu (French-Italian) and new décor, though with the same secluded garden out the back, we hope. Italy is the inspiration for Ella (Rua Costa Carvalo 138, Pinheiros, 3034 1267), a cosy spot in a quiet corner of Pinheiros. Slide onto a red banquette and try the exFasano chef Alexandre Romano’s housemade pastas, like the rustic spaghetti bigole (R$30), served with duck ragoût, or meats – or we love the sound of the roasted lamb
olive oil and wine. And finally, for a fix of good ol’ Americana, the dubiouslydecorated Big Kahuna Burger (Alameda Lorena 53, Jardim Paulista, 3051 6268) brings a slice of Tarantino movie memorabilia, and another chapter in the city’s burgeoning burger obsession. The house burger packs in 220 grams of beef with mozzarella, caqui tomato, onion, pickled cucumber, bacon and mayo (R$26.50). But no five-dollar shake.
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Food & Drink
Restaurant listings How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes. We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so.
Sunday lunch Gourmet fair
INDIAN Madhu In a city as cosmopolitan as São Paulo, it’s a surprise to find so few options for food from the Indian subcontinent. So it’s an even bigger surprise to find a fast-food Indian restaurant that not only serves damn good curry, but serves it in combos featuring a top-notch array of side dishes. Chapatis come as standard, but there are tough choices to be made: which chutney? Rice, or flat appam rice-bread? Samosa or kofta? The easy bit is the bill – you can have the lot with change from a R$20 note. Rua Augusta 1422, Consolação (3262 5535/madhurestaurante.com.br). Open noon-10pm Mon-Wed; noon-11.30pm Thu; noon-midnight Fri; 1pm-1am Sat; 1-10.30pm Sun. Main courses R$12.90BARGAIN $24.90.
Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro GREEK Acrópoles You can imagine Acrópoles landing a minor part in a Woody Allen movie, or a cameo role in Seinfeld as the quintessential familyowned neighbourhood joint. Today, word is out that the food is good and paulistanos from all over town flock here, spilling onto the pavement outside and drinking draught beer as they wait patiently for a table to come free. In fact, weekends can get uncomfortably packed despite the outmoded downtown location. The decor is beyond faded, with wonky photos of crumbling temples, and the veteran owners look like they might have had a hand in building the original Acrópolis. The steaming kitchen rolls out Greek classics such as moussaka and baked lamb, along with some nods to Italian classics. Nothing’s spectacular – but it’s good, solid, home-made stuff. Rua da Graça 364, Bom Retiro (3223 4386/ restauranteacropoles.com.br). Open noon11pm daily. Main courses R$30-$60; couvert R$25-$45. BARGAIN FRENCH La Casserole It first opened in 1954, and since then little has changed in this frozen-in-time bistro – which is no bad thing. The service is friendly and charming, and the food is good, solid, bourgeois cooking. The menu doesn’t pander or dumb down, though – there are classics like tripes à la mode de Caen and kidneys in beaujolais wine, alongside well cooked lamb and the tried-and-tested coq au vin. It’s worth spending a little time walking round the neighbourhood by day (be careful in the area after nightfall) to
We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. NEW means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers. BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.
exquisite guava soufflé in a queijo Catupiry (Brazilian cream cheese) sauce. Rua Sergipe 753, Higienópolis (3661 9465/ carlota.com.br). Open 7pm-midnight Mon; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$48-$73; couvert R$11.
From the same team behind the itinerant food fair Chefs na Rua – look out for the next one on Sunday 19 May at the 24-hour culture fest, the Virada Cultural (see Around Town) – the Feirinha Gastronômica brings together a curated selection of twenty chefs and amateur cooks to an empty parking lot in Vila Madalena, every Sunday. The setting is far from ideal – a partially covered concrete space – and with no licence to sell alcohol and a distinct lack of places to sit down, it’s hard to linger long here. But
in a city where eating out can cost an arm and a leg, and where there’s limited opportunity to dine beyond the usual Brazilian, Italian, Japanese and Lebanese fare, it’s a novel way to experiment some interesting foods from across Brazil and around the world. With a changing roll call of vendors each week, there’s always something new to discover. Just don’t turn up too late in the day, as chances are the best stalls will be sold out. Rua Girassol 309, Vila Madalena (feirinhagastronomica.com.br). Open 11am-7pm, Sundays.
enjoy the small flower market nearby, and to get a flavour of the way São Paulo was before the wreckers’ balls took over. Largo do Arouche 346, Centro (3331 6283/ lacasserole.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$38.50-$72.50; lunch R$42$52; couvert R$10-$14.
while you’re in there, will you? It’s hunky and char-grilled, and topped with deboned pork ribs in barbecue sauce. Rua Pará 210, Higienópolis (3661 1219/210diner. com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open noon3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 7-11.30pm Sat; noon-4pm, 7-10.45pm Sun. Main courses R$16$52; lunch R$27-$49.
Consolação & Higienópolis AMERICAN 210 Diner Done out in the style of a classic American diner, albeit a swish, upgraded one, 210 Diner has quickly become a go-to spot in Higienópolis for those in search of a hearty slice of Americana. We’d consider the mushroom-flecked macaroni cheese as a possible side order for our last-ever meal – consider, we said; and the tuna-melt sandwich ain’t half bad either. Burgers are a good choice too – get us a piggie burger
ECLECTIC Carlota The chef, Carla Pernambuco, has an enviable creative spirit. In her multicultural kitchen, international cuisine is fused with typical Brazilian gastronomy and delivers surprising results. The amazing sole filet with golden goat’s cheese sauce, fresh palm hearts and mushroom fettuccine is one example of why Carlota wins legions of foodie fans, as is the camarão crocante com risoto de presunto parma – crunchy shrimp with parma ham risotto. The restaurant’s recreation of the classic Brazilian dessert known as Romeo and Juliet elevates a simple dessert to an
ECLECTIC Mestiço A grand dame of fusion restaurants, GLS-friendly Mestiço continues to update itself by regularly changing the artwork and trying out new menu items, while sticking to its guns of good cooking. The water feature at the back and the table layout might be a tad dated, but the food continues to be a draw. Order the krathong thong – crunchy pastry with spicy Thai chicken and corn, with an extra sprinkle of chilli dust – and then a veggie or Thai curry for mains, and you’ll get decent portions served with steaming jasmine rice. Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 277, Consolação (3256 3165/mestico.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 11.45am-midnight Mon; 11.45am1am Tue-Thu; 11.45am-2am Fri, Sat; 11.45am-midnight Sun. Main courses R$34-$72.50; lunch R$41-$44.
BARBECUE Sujinho The best time to get
down and dirty at Sujinho is in the small hours of the morning before it shuts at 5am, when you’ll find meat-hungry punters tucking in to big hunks of picanha. This traditional bisteca is still known to many old-school paulistanos as ‘Bar das Putas’ (the whores’ bar) for its clientele, who would come to relax after work back in the ’70s and ’80s, when Consolação was a place to pick up prostitutes. These days Sujinho has smartened up its image considerably. This, the original restaurant – there are now three of them, plus a hamburger joint – has a roof terrace on the third floor, where by day you can watch the hubbub of Rua da Consolação below. Rua da Consolação 2078, Consolação (3231 1299/ sujinho.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 11.30am-5am daily. Main courses R$30.25-$78.75 (for two); couvert R$9. No credit cards. Other locations Rua da Consolação at 2063 and 2068 (3231 1299); Avenida Ipiranga 1058, República (3229 9986).
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Eat out and play a role in ﬁghting child hunger and food waste.
Choose to eat at one of the Satisfeito restaurants and help combat child hunger and food waste.
At the participating restaurant, you may choose your dish in the Satisfeito version, with 2/3 of the original size, for the same price.
The restaurant’s savings, by serving the Satisfeito version, will be transferred in money to organizations that fight child hunger.
There is restaurant near you! menu
Download the Satisfeito app and ﬁnd out where iPhone
Satisfeito is a global movement that aims to alleviate child hunger and prevent food waste. www.satisfeito.com
Distance: 0.2 Km Rua dos Pinheiros, Pinheiros, São Paulo (011) 3060-0000 Invite your friends to eat here
Food & Drink
Lapa, Perdizes, & Barra Funda ITALIAN Mangiare Hidden away in Vila Leopoldina, a fast-growing neighbourhood in the west of the city, Mangiare packs in as many diners as possible to its expansive but cosy former warehouse space. After initial teething troubles, Mangiare is now running like a finely tuned orchestra – pastas are served al dente, grilled meats are succulent, and the waiters are calm and collected. Don’t skip the delicious couvert of homemade breads. The maltagliati pasta with Bolognese ragoût (R$32) is a delicious option, but if you’re dining à deux, try the la vera bisteca alla fiorentina (R$120 for two people) – a T-bone steak covered in garlic and rosemary. Avenida Imperatriz Leopoldina 681,Vila Leopoldina (3034 5074/mangiaregastronomia.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight MonSat; noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm Sun. Main courses R$32-$60. Thai Namga Satisfying a craving for Thai food in São Paulo is no easy task, so when we heard about this progeny of the much-loved takeaway Tele-Thai, we were in there like a shot. The trickling fountains, candles and ambient music might give it the slight air of a spa, but it’s all about the food here, which, while neither wholly authentic nor generously proportioned, is delicious. Thai classics like fragrant green curry and the crunchy pad Thai are on the menu alongside more inventive dishes like the succulent pork-filled squid. For a sensory overload, order the miang kham – build-your-own bundles of Japanese spinach filled with lemon, chillies, coconut and nuts. Round things off with the chef’s dessert, khanom kluay, whose black rice and coconut ice-cream combo is a sensation in both texture and taste. Rua Apiacás 92, Perdizes (2507 1774/namga. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Fri, Sat. Main courses R$23-$39.
Vila Madalena & Pinheiros
ECLECTIC Chou Clearly designed with romance in mind, Chou is an atmospheric spot for dinner, whether you sit in the ITALIAN Buttina Dine alfresco under vintage-Provençal-style interior or out half a dozen jabuticaba trees, in the covered backyard, where or inside this gorgeous fairy lights dangle between converted vintage house, the trees. The speciality where the tree boughs here is succulent meat are allowed to wind and fish, cooked on a freely through the airy charcoal grill tucked space. Chef Filomena away at the back d n a Chiarella has gained of the house, which g MPB ts. in m m ja legions of followers means the smokiness Bands Tuesday nigh for her authentic lingers only on the food, jazz on 0pm. Cover 8.3 recipes, learned in her rather than the hair. R$25 charge native Basilicata, in The Mediterranean-style Italy’s balmy South. side dishes are creative and Chiarella’s signature packed with fresh herbs, like dishes include the delicious the mint risoni with pecans (R$14). jabuticaba ice-cream (R$8), served while The service can be inattentive, so console the delicious purple fruits are in season, yourself while you wait with one of the in September and October. Rua João brilliantly imaginative drinks. All in all, Moura 976, Pinheiros (3083 5991/ a delightful choice for dinner, though buttina.com.br). Open noon-2.30pm, expect to pay upwards of R$150 per head 8-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-2.30pm, for three courses and a drink. Rua Mateus Grou 345, Pinheiros (3083 6998/chou. 8pm-12.30am Fri; 1pm-12.30am Sat; com.br). Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$20.808pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses R$36$49.80; lunch R$31.50. $76; couvert R$9.50. VEGETARIAN Casa Prema When hunger Eclectic Gardênia Old(ish)-timers hits at lunchtime, head to this modest little will have seen the metamorphosis in Pinheiros restaurant for home-cooked 2005 that transformed the no-frills-bar lacto-vegetarian fare, though as the place Café Gardênia into simply Gardênia. fills up, don’t be surprised to find yourself After a big refurbishment, under the new sharing a table. Follow your fellow diners’ ownership of Carlos Moraes, Gardênia footsteps and make more than one trip has emerged as the restaurant in São to the buffet table – the choice, which Paulo in which to eat mouth-wateringly changes daily, is impressive. The mango good lamb, which is raised on their own and pineapple chutneys are packed with farm. With over seven lamb options on flavour and make the perfect complement the menu, choosing is the hard part. to the sweet potato kibe and the tofu curry. Try the rack of lamb with mint pesto or The buzz of the lunchtime rush lends the tender paleta de cordeiro –shoulder some energy and atmosphere to a space of lamb – marinated in white wine, that might otherwise feel a little shabby. garlic and rosemary and served either Rua Diogo Moreira 312, Pinheiros (3815 individually or as the whole shoulder for 1448/casaprema.com/inicial.html). Metrô sharing. A seat out the front affords a 4, Faria Lima.Open 11.30am-3pm Monlush view of the towering trees clumped Fri; noon-3.30pm Sat. Prices buffet R$19 together on Praça dos Omaguás. Gardênia or $31.20 per kilo.
spread its wings in 2009, opening a second branch in Jardins. Praça dos Omaguás 110, Pinheiros (3815 9247/ gardeniaresto.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 1-9pm Sun. Main courses R$37$49; couvert R$7. Other location Alameda Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 726, Jardim Paulistano (3088 3044). ECLECTIC Marcelino Pan y Vino The
team behind the excellent Lola Bistrot recently opened this no-frills restaurant, overlooking the Orleans jazz bar, and its large but unfussy menu includes hot dogs, burgers, wraps and the like. This isn’t fast food, though (and we’re not just talking about the painfully slow service) – the sauces are all homemade and meats are roasted in the wood-fired oven, which looms large in the openplan kitchen. Go for one of the gourmet wraps and sandwiches, or one of the sharing platters (small R$39, medium R$48), with a veggie version available as well. The fresh fruit juices are delicious and come served in a mini carafe with a straw. Rua Girassol 451, Pinheiros (3034 0461/marcelinopanyvino.com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 1-11pm Sun. Main courses R$16.20-$34; lunch R$19.90; couvert R$3.50.
BARBECUE Martín Fierro If meat’s
in order tonight, then this enduringly popular Argentinian restaurant may be just the ticket. There are a handful of Brazilian cuts on the menu; but aside from those, you can pretend you’re in Buenos Aires to excellent effect with the very good bife de chorizo (sirloin) and the asado de tira (beef thin ribs). The side salad is possibly a little too simple – just like in Buenos Aires, in fact – but some empanadas to start with are a good idea. Rua Aspicuelta 683, Vila Madalena (3814 6747/martinfierro.com.br). Open noonmidnight daily. Main courses R$21$78; couvert R$4.10.
ITALIAN Pasquale It’s not Don Pasquale,
Donizetti’s most famous opera, that this restaurant is named after but the proprietor who was born in the Puglia region of Italy. For aficionados of Italian cuisine – which means, arguably, most of us – this restaurant offering the right combination of antipasti, pasta and wines, should hit the spot. In its new incarnation in Vila Madalena (the restaurant moved in 2011), what the restaurant may have lost in cosy charm, it makes up for in added space. For antipasti, try the tender marinated eggplant, the rich and tiny boursin cheese balls, and some generous hunks of salami (cured on the premises); it all might just lead you to attempt a top-of-your-lungs Pavarotti number. Rua Girassol 66, Vila Madalena (3081 0333/pasqualecantina. com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses R$21.50-$41.
Wellington Nemeth/PRESS IMAGE
GERMAN Schnapshaus The checkered
Parcel it The ravioli filled with ricotta, truffles and chives (R$56) is one of the new dishes on the menu at Biondi
tablecloths and Deutschland posters of this family-style tavern have been transporting diners to a land of schnitzel and beer since it first opened in 1977. Try the tender pork in a paprika sauce, which comes with a huge portion of mashed potatoes and rice, or the best dish on the menu: paprika schnitzel. Many of the main courses will easily feed two. Rua Diogo Moreira 119, Pinheiros (3031 9886/
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sit here, reservations are a must). For an appetiser, go for a pastelzinho (a small fried pastry) or duck rolls with tangerine sauce. The couvert comes with crackers and vatapá (fish paste with dried shrimp and dendê oil). Try the shrimp with pupunha (palm fruit) served in a green coconut shell. Last but not least, the waiters are attentive, warm, and entirely tuned in to the needs of the diners – they round out a perfectly divine dining experience. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 471, Jardim Paulista (3068 8486/capimsanto.com.br) Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 12.30-4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$59-$89; lunch R$49-$73; couvert R$16.50.
Supper club Clandestino
JAPANESE Tanuki The mischief-making, shape-shifting badger creature of legend graces both the name and symbol of this traditional Japanese joint. Chef Shigeru Hirano has done a bit of shape-shifting himself, opening Shigueru in Bibi recently and leaving Koje Yamasaki in charge of Tanuki. If you can navigate the somewhat inaccessible menu, you’ll find some real gems, such as a fish version of the more traditionally meaty fondue-style shabushabu – named after the sizzling sound as the food hits the hot oil (fish version R$155; meat version R$135; feeds two). It’s also a rare chance to try fugu, the poisonous puffer fish, but check availability: ‘It’s two weeks since it last came in.’ At the sushi bar, tuck into the Tanuki especial (R$110), a combination of 40 pieces of sushi and sashimi. Rua Jericó 287, Vila Madalena (3814 3760/tanukisushi.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open noon-3pm, 6.30pmmidnight Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$39$98; lunch R$26-$31; couvert R$3.50.
Jardins PORTUGUESE Adega Santiago A cosy tavern with dishes inspired by Iberian cuisine, Adega (as it’s known to regulars) combines good food, a great atmosphere and a fine wine list. Seafood lovers should go for the polvo à lagareira (chargrilled octopus) – with a side of buttered vegetables, which makes a simple but mouth-watering duo. More expensive fish dishes, such as bacalhoada na lenha (oven-baked salt cod with potato, onion, peppers, olives and eggs) at R$135, are designed to serve two. Rua Sampaio Vidal 1072, Jardim Paulistano (3081 5211/ adegasantiago.com.br). Metrô 4, Faria Lima. Open noon-3pm, 6-11pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon12.30am Fri, Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Main courses R$38-$135; couvert R$4.90. Other location Shopping Cidade Jardim, 4th floor, Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000 (3758 4446/adegasantiago.com.br). JAPANESE Aizomê If you can judge a place by its clientele, then chef Shinya Koike was clearly doing something right when he ran A1 – a small izakaya (Japanese bar with hot food) and longrunning favourite with the Japanese suits at the nearby Bank of Tokyo, on Avenida Paulista. Koike relocated a few blocks south when he opened Aizomê in 2007. The two-storey restaurant, in an old house in Jardins (look for the large ‘39’ on the wall
INTERNATIONAL Chez Lorena It’s no surprise at all to find Chez Lorena hitting the spot between chic and descolado (cool) with pitch-perfect precision: it’s owned by the same hip cabal of owners as Bar Secreto (see Nightclubs). The restaurant, which opened in 2010, has rapidly become a favourite casual-chic dining spot and attracts thinking-man’s celebs like Philippe Stark, spotted there in November. We recommend the ceviche and the risotto with tomato, broccoli and grilled baby calamari from the Spanish–Italian influenced menu; a seat on the front terrace for the see-andbe-seen brigade; and table at the back, intimately lit by candles at night, for those discreet about dining. Alameda Lorena 1989, Jardim Paulista (3081 2966/chez. com.br/chezlorena). Open noon-1am TueFri; 12.30pm-1am Sat; 12.30-10.30pm Sun. Main courses R$36-$66; lunch R$21.90-$25.90.
ASIAN Yakissoba da Vila This informal little eaterie, with chopstick and bowl stencils covering the outside wall, is ideal for picking up a stir fry or ordering a delivery. It’s popular for not just its tasty food but also for the reasonable prices – the 33 varieties of yakissoba start from R$8.50. If indecision is your middle name, then go straight for the special yakissoba with beef, shrimp, chicken and mushroom, and leave the tough decision-making to which type of fresh fruit juice to have. Rua Fradique Coutinho 695, Pinheiros (3032 2785). Open noon-10pm Mon- Thu; noon-11pm Fri, Sat. Main courses R$8.50-$25. Cash and debit cards only.
Food & Drink
schnapshaus.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-11pm Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$18.30$41.50; lunch R$18-$28.
Childhood memories are the inspiration behind the new edition of chef Bel Coelho’s contemporary supper club, Clandestino, held on Thursday nights upstairs in her restaurant Dui. Weekends at the beach inspire the golden squid starter, while the ‘Meu Sukiyaki’ dish (above) – Coelho’s version of the Japanese hotpot – harks back to food outings with her parents in Liberdade, the Asian heart of São Paulo. 10-course tasting menu R$195; R$335 with wine. Reservations required. See Dui listings.
as there’s no sign) serves a mix of sushi, sashimi and hot Japanese dishes. Koike is best known for rolling out ‘East meets West’ fusion sushi, adapted with Brazilian ingredients. The sushi may not match the reputation of chefs like Jun Sakamoto, but the all-round Japanese food experience – best sampled in the tasting menu (R$155 for 5 dishes; R$180 for 6 dishes) – is one of the best in town. Alameda Fernão Cardim 39, Jardim Paulista (3251 5157/aizome. com.br). Open noon-2.30pm; 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri; 6.30-11pm Sat. Prices R$12$48 for individual small dishes; lunch R$38-$100. BRAZILIAN Bolinha Set up in 1946 by
taxi driver Affonso Paulillo, and now run by his two sons, Bolinha is all about feijoada. The service is top notch (as you’d
hope, given the hefty prices), and when prompted, the waiters will happily tell you more about the humble slave origins of this hearty black-bean-and-pork stew, guiding you through choices including the classic, old-fashioned version of the dish – nose-to-tail eating, Brazilian style – a more modern version, without the scary bits; and a ‘light’ version. Avenida Cidade Jardim 53, Jardim Europa (3061 2010/ bolinha.com.br). Open 11am-5pm Mon; 11am-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses R$52-$97. BRAZILIAN Capim Santo Morena Leite’s
Jungle Book restaurant features two gardens. The front bar patio is reminiscent of Bahian beaches, with wooden benches and throw pillows; and the stunning back garden is fit for Amazonian royalty (to
BRAZILIAN D.O.M. D.O.M. is the fiefdom of tattooed celebrity chef Alex Atala, who absorbs molecular gastronomy tendencies and gives them a very Brazilian twist. The food is balanced and harmonious, particularly in the tasting menus, and the vegetarian version is served with carefully selected juices and fruit essences to provide contrasts of colours and textures. If you’re prone to passing out at the sight of large bills, try the lunchtime executive menu, which gives a beautifully presented spin on home-made Brazilian food, using crunchy, toasted manioc farofa with beans, rice and chicken or John Dory. It sounds simple, but Atala takes it to a different level, earning the restaurant the number six ranking in the San Pellegrino world’s 50 best restaurants award, in 2013. Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Jardim Paulista (3088 0761/domrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$107-$145; lunch R$59; couvert R$20. INTERNATIONAL Dui Midcentury designer furniture in the lobby tips you off to the relaxed chic of this Jardins find. There’s a light-filled outdoor terrace and a long view over the kitchen, where the chefs seemed spookily calm the night we went. The cocktails are enjoyable, and prepare you for a slight wait. Very good food includes black pasta with seafood fidellini negro – with ‘the best prawns I’ve ever eaten’, as one of our party was moved to comment – and perfectly cooked robalo (snook), crispy on its bed of cashews and palm hearts. The chocolate dessert was a little dry, and could happily have been skipped. Alameda Franca 1590, Jardim Paulista
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ITALIAN Emiliano Once you’ve sampled Emiliano’s fresh robalo (snook) in a savoury crust with hot peppers, accompanied by sautéed tomato, aubergine and courgette, you’ll come to see why this restaurant, which goes by the same name as the hotel that houses it, is considered to have one of the best chefs in the city at its helm. If pasta appeals, try the potatostuffed tortelli with caramelised onion in black truffle sauce, on parmesan shavings; or go for the pescada amarela (grey snapper) in salmoriglio sauce with clams and asparagus crostini. The restaurant has a lovely vertical garden that’s particularly picturesque at lunchtime, when it’s bathed in natural light. Rua Oscar Freire 384, Jardim Paulista (3068 4393/emiliano.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonFri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses R$43-$163; lunch R$53; couvert R$14-$15. STEAKHOUSE A Figueira Rubaiyat The
number of architecturally significant and gastronomically superb restaurants in São Paulo is astounding. Even so, finding gentrified country dining a block away from Rua Oscar Freire is a surprise. A huge 130-year-old fig tree dominates the dining area of A Figueira Rubaiyat, lending it an intimate, romantic air. The restaurant is famed for serving some of the best beef in the city and for catering to paulistano power couples and the financial elite. The appetiser of carpaccio di funghi in truffle oil is a must, as are the pães de queijo. A main course mainstay is the sumptuous picanha sumus – premium top sirloin. Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardim Paulista (3087 1399/rubaiyat.com.br). Open noon-12.30am Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$74-$235; couvert R$23.50.
BURGER Lanchonete da Cidade This is one of the best of São Paulo’s many ’50s-style diners: the originals, of course, are the city’s thousands of humble streetcorner lanchonetes. Here at the slightly more upmarket Lanchonete da Cidade, it’s all about the burgers, with the succulent Bom Bom most in demand – a 220g churrasco-style burger with homemade tomato sauce. For vegetarians, the delicious mushroom-and-grilled-vegetable burger is a treat. Lanchonete’s french fries are also good, but paulistanos swear by the batatas rústicas – crispy fried discs of crunchy potato scattered with rosemary and cloves of sweet, juicy garlic. Alameda Tietê 110, Jardim Paulista (3086 3399/ lanchonetedacidade.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-1am Mon-Thu; noon-3am Fri, Sat; noon-1am Sun. Main courses R$14.50-$41. Other locations Rua Amauri 334, Itaim Bibi; Shopping Higienópolis, Avenida Higienópolis 674, Higienópolis; Shopping Morumbi, Avenida Magalães de Castro 12.000, Morumbi; Avenida Macuco 355, Moema. FRENCH L’Entrecôte d’Olivier You won’t have any trouble deciding what to eat at the restaurant formally known as L’Entrecôte de Ma Tante – all gastronomic dilemmas cease once you walk through the door, because celebrity chef Olivier
Anquier serves just one dish: an entrecôte in a greenish sauce, supposedly his aunt’s secret recipe. We can’t help wondering what has happened to the formerly eponymous aunt; but whatever her fate, the solo star of the show, a traditional French rib eye steak, is good. It’s served with a pile of all-you-can-eat bistro-style fries (possibly São Paulo’s best); and there’s a manageable wine list that’s heavy on France and South America. The space, decked out in sexy reds and blood-red velvet curtains, feels slightly overdone, as you might expect from the fashionista/ architect team that owns the place. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 17, Jardim Europa (3034 5324/bistroentrecote.com.br) Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Mon-Thu; noon3pm, 7pm-2am Fri, noon-2am Sat, noon11pm Sun. Main course R$58; couvert R$4.80. FUSION/ASIAN Marakuthai Marakuthai
started out as a relaxed, upscale restaurant on Ilhabela before its beachside success spawned this urban sister. And though the much-praised restaurant’s name might suggest a straight up-and-down Thai joint, in fact Indian, Moroccan and Brazilian also get a look-in on the menu with dishes like the khiri khiri starter – prawn balls in a cashew crust with a saké and chilli sauce (R$24). The presentation is flawless, from the green tea in tall glass jugs with mint, herbs and citrus fruits to the food, thoughtfully laid out on attractive platters: all in all, it’s a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Alameda Itu 1618, Jardim Paulista (3062 7556/marakuthai.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8pmmidnight Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 8pmmidnight Thu; 8pm-1am Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$29-$79.
ITALIAN Mercearia do Conde A tumble down the rabbit hole might – just might – prepare you for Mercearia do Conde. The ceiling groans under a collection of bewinged angels and pink, wand-bearing fairies that gently rotate overhead, while the plates are gaily and wantonly mismatched. The food can be good, but is occasionally patchy and errs a little on the conventional side. The chicken pie has long been a favourite of ours; but last time, we went for duck with rice ‘old Lisbon style’, which came with shredded duck, cooked pear pieces and a dusting of garam masala – good and homely, but not revving up the taste buds too much. Rua Joaquim Antunes 217, Jardim Paulistano (3081 7204/merceariadoconde.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Wed; noonmidnight Thu; noon-1am Fri; 12.30pm1am Sat; 12.30-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$85; lunch R$45. ItaliAN Pizzaria Urca A look at the neatly charred underside of your pizza at Pizzaria Urca will have you purring with pleasure – and that’s before you’ve sampled the simple perfection of this classic thin-crust São Paulo pie. The joint’s fast, professional service and good value make it a great find for a beer (chopes R$4.80) and pizza close to Paulista. Swerve the industrial-style pudim de leite (flan), order another chope and enjoy the nofrills, family-style atmosphere. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 2401, Jardim Paulista (3284 7724/pizzariaurca.com. br). Open 6pm-12.35am Mon-Thu; 6pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6pm-12.35am Sun. BARGAIN Main courses R$33-$57.
tadeu brunelli/PRESS IMAGE
Food & Drink
(2649 7952/duirestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight TueThu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 12:304:30pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$36-$79; couvert R$13.
Lo cal Go for the new healthy Sunday buffet (R$45.80) at Uni, in the MASP.
BURGERS Ritz Ritz has a hard time determining what city it’s in, and providing you can get in, you’ll also have a hard time believing that you’re still in São Paulo, and not in Paris or the East Village. It has the look of a French bistro with mirrors and red leather banquettes; and is popular with gay folk and trust-fund bohemians. As for the food, it’s best known for its great hamburgers and delicious pastas. For an appetiser, try the bolinhos de arroz (fried rice balls), a speciality you’re not likely to find outside of São Paulo. The portions are generous, and if you’re not too hungry, feel free to share your entrée – the penne mediterraneo is a great for-two option. Although the tunes lean towards indie rock, the drinks are far from dive-bar prices (a caipirinha will set you back R$14.90). Alameda Franca 1088, Jardim Paulista (3088 6808). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3.10pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Wed; noon-3.10pm, 8pm-1.30am Thu, Fri; 12.30pm-1.30am Sat; 12.30pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$26.60-$56.60; lunch R$35.70-$45.80. Other location Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 141, Itaim Bibi (3079 2725); Shopping Iguatemi, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulista (2769 6752). INTERNATIONAL Spot If São Paulo has a definitive see-and-be-seen restaurant, it’s Spot, one of the city’s hands-down classic restaurants. It’s centrally located – a handy place for lunch if you’re on Avenida Paulista – and decorated brightly and stylishly, if simply, with all-round windows and a circular bar in the middle.
Spot is an enduring Sampa favourite – so come prepared to wait, over a drink at the bar or outside on the terrace, for a table in the thick of the action, in amongst the chattering diners. On our last visit, the mignon de porco (pork tenderloin) with mini onions, red pepper and mini tomatoes was tangy, crispy and gloriously meaty, though it came sadly unaccompanied – follow our lead and order some of the delicious roasted vegetables and smooth, creamy mash as a side dish. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 72, Bela Vista (3284 6131/restaurantespot.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp and Consolação. Open noon-3pm; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$34-$71. BRAZILIAN Uni The four red claws of the
MASP draw visitors’ eyes up towards the suspended glass-box filled with one of the continent’s finest art collections. But down below street level, there are more delights to behold: namely the excellent restaurant, Uni. A sprawling fixed-price buffet is served at lunchtimes, with hot dishes such as roast beef and creamy fish bookended by delicious salads and a table piled high with desserts. MASP, Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista (3253 2829). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp. Open 11am-3pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sat, Sun. Prices buffet R$35$38. Other location Rua Jorge Coelho 98, Itaim Bibi (3078 4059).
BARBECUE Vento Haragano The
display of perfectly-charred carcasses laid across an open flame at the entrance to this gaúcho-style set-price barbecue
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ITALIAN Zucco A floor-to-ceiling glass exterior gives a sneak preview of the sleek, modern interior of this Italian restaurant. Weather permitting, the windows slide right back to create an alfresco terrace backed by a vertical garden. The broad menu offers a modern take on traditional Italian cuisine. Fresh pasta is a good choice for a main course – try the squid ink taglioni with shrimps and clams. If there’s a queue for a table, pull up a stool at the bar and sip a glass of bubbly from the comprehensive wine list, or a Zucco Martini, with strawberry, vanilla-flavoured vodka and a balsamic vinegar reduction. Rua Haddock Lobo 1416, Jardim Paulista (3897 0666/zuccorestaurante.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon12.30am Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$39$89; lunch R$52; couvert R$12.90.
Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia ITALIAN A Tal da Pizza It started down
a dirt track – an out-of-town, family-run pizzeria with no cutlery, no waiters, and a cult following among SP’s elite. A Tal da Pizza’s city progeny is an altogether different setup, and its Louis XV-style chairs and velvet sofas are a far cry from country simplicity. The pizza is good, including adventurous combos like the Scaramouche, with aubergine, raisins, prunes, peppers, mozzarella and cashew nuts. On our Thursday night visit, we were among just a handful of diners. Perhaps paulistanos know where to get pizza that’s just as good, for less, elsewhere. Either way, roll up your sleeves – it’s faithful to the original, so you won’t find any cutlery here – and dig in. Rua Doutor Mario Ferraz 351, Itaim Bibi (3079 3599/ataldapizza.com.br). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 7pm1am Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Large pizza R$75. FRENCH/ITALIAN Bar des Arts It’s
a feast for all the senses here, from the postcard perfection of this old mansion with its manicured garden and the gentle gurgle of water in the marble fountain to the delectable food. Go for lunch on a sunny day, when you can choose between the excellent lunch buffet and à la carte options, or at night when the candlelit setting makes for a magical date. The menu features mostly French
and Italian cuisine, with the odd touch of Brazilian. If you’re just stopping by for a drink, the appetiser menu is well worth a look too. Rua Pedro Humberto 9, Itaim Bibi (3074 6363/bardesarts. com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$128; lunch R$66-$92; couvert R$8-$12. AMERICAN Butcher’s
VEGETARIAN Cachoeira Tropical Nostalgic for a college dining experience? This self-service restaurant offers great, simple, vegetarian food at a set price in a cafeteria-style environment. Sample all you want, choosing between a variety of salads, hot dishes and desserts, for less than R$20 a sitting, or go for the threecourse option. The other two branches serve fish and chicken dishes. Rua João Cachoeira 275, Itaim Bibi (3167 5211/ cachoeiratropical.com.br). Open 11am-3pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am4pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$18-$20. Other location Avenida São Gabriel 300 (3884 8868), Rua Gaivota fé a C 1330, Moema (5542 9561). a Mata
Food & Drink
(rodízio), hint at the restaurant’s ‘go big or go home’ approach. It’s pricier than many a churrascaria, but Vento Haragano faithfully delivers, most memorably with its garlic-laced picanha and the unusual wild boar served with jabuticaba jelly. The traditional gaúcho outfits worn by the staff smack slightly of Disneyland, and there’s no lack of tourists to complete the picture; but trust us: the meat is so good here, you won’t mind a jot. Avenida Rebouças 1001, Jardim Paulista (3083 4265/ ventoharagano.com.br). Open 11.30am4pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 11.30ammidnight Sat; 11.30am-11pm Sun.. Fixed price R$103.
Market Chalkboard walls, phonograph lampshades and meatpacking brica-brac bring a slice of the Big Apple to the bustling Butcher’s Market, where carefully prepared N rs BARGAIN gastronomic Americana – See Ba spicy chicken wings, pork CONTEMPORARY Clos de Tapas ribs with hash browns – can Opened in January, the kitchen at Clos be scarfed down at prices just high de Tapas carries some serious weight in enough to stave off addiction. Menu items the form of the collective experience and include the succulent mushroom burger acclaim of its two chefs, Spain’s Raul – a thick patty of grilled prime beef Jimenez and the Brazilian Ligia Karazawa. smothered with melted mozzarella and The way to go here is the eight-course tasty, seasoned mushrooms – and arterytasting menu (R$185), which rivals clogging but oh-so-good cheese chilli anything to which Michelin might attach fries (aka chilli cheese fries in the USA). one of its coveted stars. Give yourself up If you’re not the type to be kept waiting, to the experience and journey through a the less-crowded lunchtime seating meal that’s studded with standouts, like might be your best bet. It’ll also give the queijo coalho served with a spectrum you the rest of the day to work off those of tastes (spicy with grac de bode peppers, happily ingested calories. Rua Bandeira and sour with lime foam), or carvão de Paulista 164, Itaim Bibi (2367 1043/ bacalhau (salt cod with an almond and butchersmarket.com.br). Open noon-3pm, squid ink coating). Along the way, your 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat. Main other senses are tickled too in moments courses R$23-$43; lunch R$30.
IN THE AREA
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Food & Drink
that include the arrival of a bowl of moss, brought to life with dry ice to fill the table with the aroma of a damp forest. Rua Domingos Fernandes 548, Vila Nova Conceiçao (3045 2154/closdetapas.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$15-$32; lunch R$48; couvert R$12. Mediterranean Di Bistrot Only the
most unobservant of diners will fail to notice the eclectic, and at times kitsch, decor as they step through the door at this Itaim restaurant. Think leopard print upholstery, cup-and-saucer chandeliers and a profusion of art. The eccentric personality of the original chef, Cassio Machado, is imprinted quite literally on the walls – the decor and showcase of paulistano art was created in homage to Brazilian artist Di Cavalcanti. The main attraction though is the outstanding food created by Mariana Fonseca, the new chef and owner, who has taken inspiration from Portugal and Greece, where she worked for many years. Be transported straight to a Greek taverna with the outstanding polvo grelhado – grilled octopus with paprika. Don’t miss the chef’s signature dish – atum fresco – tender tuna served with a wasabi and mustard cream. Leave room for dessert: Fonseca’s creativity doesn’t stop at the mains. Try the terrine de goiabada (a guava sweet) with cheese sauce. Simply delicious. Rua Jacurici 27, Itaim Bibi (3079 9098/dibistrot.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$34-$58; lunch R$29.90; couvert R$12.
br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-4pm, 7pm-12.30am Fri; noon12.30am Sat; noon-10.30pm Sun. Fixed price R$94. MEXICAN Hecho en Mexico Few
Mexican restaurants here in São Paulo are worthy of the Meh-hee-coe in their names – but this is one of them. Hecho en Mexico is a simple and tasty taquería where you can get a good feed for under R$20. Team a cold bottle of Dos Equis with the totopos – homemade nachos served with salsa or (slightly bland) guacamole. Or try one of the ‘Pe Efes’, basic midday meals that come in lucha libre wrestler-sized portions with meat, rice, refried beans, guacamole and an optional fried egg (R$15.90-$17.90). We’ve yet to scope out the territory here after dark, but reckon the margarita machine and brightly-painted open courtyard at the back should make this the perfect setting for a cheap and cheerful night out. Rua Doutor Renato Paes de Barros 538, Itaim Bibi (3073 0833/hechoenmexico.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses R$15.90-17.90. BARGAIN
MIDDLE EASTERN Gibran There’s no
shortage of Middle Eastern delights in São Paulo, from humble lanchonete kibes and esfihas to some very fine dining establishments. But with a menu of fresh, healthy Lebanese and other specialities, Itaim’s Gibran, more than most, serves the sort of thing you might find in a contemporary Beirut dining room – a million miles from the heavier, oilier dishes of much diaspora cookery. Soft pillowy esfihas with cheese and basturme – an Armenian form of pastrami – and the deeply savoury mohamara – a redpepper-and-walnut dip, less spicy than the classic Turkish version, are some of the don’t-miss standouts at this bright, airy bistro. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 296, Itaim Bibi (2083 1593/ restaurantegibran.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Fri-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$14-$38; lunch R$22-$30.
ITALIAN Due Cuochi Cucina Positively buzzing with energy, this Itaim Bibi mainstay is arguably the finest Italian restaurant in town. The space is lined with dozens of windows, and is popular with both families and business people. The most affordable way to try this eaterie is to come for the delicious prix fixe lunch (R$51) Monday to Friday, which includes a FRENCH/ITALIAN Kaá light snack, an appetiser, The newest Frencha main course and Italian addition to the a dessert. If you’re scene from celebrated choosing from the h! c n u L chef Pascal Valero is a la carte menu, try eatery n a li a It another of São Paulo’s the tagliolini ao sugo Itaim’s s up one of exquisite Amazonian with shrimp – all the serve t 3-course retreats, designed by pastas are home-made. the bes s in town. e h architect Arthur Casas. While the restaurant lunc R$54 The outside seating (with a highly recommends its retractable roof) is overlooked beefsteak florentine, by a monumental wall covered by 7,000 the meat can be a bit chewy. Lunch tropical plants. (Kaá means ‘forest’ in reservations are not accepted, so come the Tupi language.) Valero, who came early, around 12.30pm at the latest, to get to Brazil in 2002 from France, has a seat. Rua Manoel Guedes 93, Itaim Bibi already headed two of the city’s finest (3078 8092/duecuochi.com.br). Open establishments: Le Coq Hardy and the noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noonEau restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Hotel. 3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am His signature dish is peixe do momento Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses (fish of the moment), with mushrooms R$35-$78; lunch R$51; couvert R$13.50. Other location Shopping Cidade and truffle oil. For dessert, the chocolate Jardim, Avenida Magalhães de Castro fondue with coconut cream and bananas 12000, 3rd floor (3758 2731). is a must. To get the full experience of rainforest elegance, a table outside must BARBECUE Jardineira Grill One of the be reserved in advance. Avenida Juscelino first São Paulo steakhouses to run a fixedKubitschek 279, Vila Olímpia (3045 price rodízio system, Jardineira Grill serves 0043/kaarestaurante.com.br). Open good quality meat, though churrascaria noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; purists will need to avert their eyes from noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-5pm, the sushi and seafood in the salad buffet. 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main Avenida dos Bandeirantes 1001, Vila courses R$42-$68; lunch R$56; couvert Olímpia (3048 0299/jardineiragrill.com. R$13.
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JAPANESE Shigueru The veteran
sushiman, Shigeru Hirano, who has been behind the counter at Tanuki in Vila Madalena since 2004, promises a more traditional approach to Japanese food in this clean, Zen environment. The menu changes with the seasons, so ask the staff what’s good. The bento boxes are a safe bet, but the adventurous should try the exotic house specials: uni (sea urchin), anago (eel), or foie gras (goose liver). For a mixed feast, go for the combinado that’s
simply called Jô. Rua Leopoldo Couto de Magalhães Jr 275, Itaim Bibi (3079 2200/ shiguerusushi.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon4pm Sun. Prices sushi set for 1 from R$33; lunch R$35-$46; couvert R$6.
tasting menu R$65-$110; lunch R$ 45; couvert R$4.
sword – we recommend coming here for lunch. This large warehouse, isolated in the heart of Vila Olímpia, has a fantastic Mongolian grill (R$29.90 for lunch on weekdays, and R$62.60 for dinner). Pick your ingredients wisely, and hope that your choices match up. If you prefer a safer option, the limited menu offers a selection of pricier Asian and Pacificinspired dishes. Rua Chilon 364, Vila Olímpia (3846 7112/tantrarestaurante. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 6pm-2am Fri; 1-5pm, 7pm2am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$32-$56; lunch R$29.90.
STEAKHOUSE Varanda Grill This steakhouse took years to earn the almost unanimous approval it enjoys todays among the city’s restaurant critics. On Time Out São Paulo’s early visits, the service was affable but standards in the kitchen were careless, with steak served dry on two occasions. We finally reached red-meat nirvana, however, at Varanda’s new sibling inside the recently opened luxury shopping mall – JK Iguatemi. The deliciously juicy steak and impeccably timed service were worthy of a champion. Rua General Mena Barreto 793, Itaim Bibi (3887 8870/varandagrill.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Thu; noon3.30pm, 7-11pm Fri, noon-5pm, 7-11pm Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$52$81.50; lunch R$84.50; couvert R$19.50. Other locationsShopping JK Iguatemi (see Shopping listings)
ITALIAN Spago At first sight, the menu at this latest venture from Zena Caffé chef Carlos Bertolazzi is startlingly uninventive: a smallish set of simple classics like spaghetti and meatballs (R$29) and chicken marsala (from R$29). But sometimes there’s comfort in the classics, which is where ECLECTIC Tiger The stripes Bertalozzi’s kitchen shines. on this tiger belong to Spago’s spaghetti and two distinct cultures and meatballs will forever alter three different chefs: one your perception of the dish. prepares Thai dishes, while The meatballs are made co See is D two experts, one on hot from ground picanha (top bs Nightclu and one on cold Japanese sirloin) and doused in a tomato cuisine, complete the culinary sauce that has been simmered triumvirate. The result? A bestfor six hours, adding up to of-both-worlds dining experience. The à a satisfying, complex experience. The la carte menu offers traditional dishes like frozen banoffee pie is a transcendent pad thai, at R$70, as well as a variety of bulls-eye of a dessert. And all for a fair sushi, maki and tempura. The restaurant price – something that’s not so easy to find recently started serving alcohol for the first here in São Paulo. Rua Leopoldo Couto de time; and the décor is a hit, with wooden Magalhães 681, Itaim Bibi (3078 0796). furniture and sparkling white walls that Open noon 3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Wed; reflect Tiger’s adherence to the principles noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Thu, Fri; noonof simplicity and good taste. Rua Jacques midnight Sat. Main courses R$26-$34. Félix 694, Vila Nova Conceição (3045 2200/tigerrestaurante.com.br). Open ASIAN Tantra Although the nightly noon-3.30pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noonentertainment here can’t be beaten – a 3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4pm, belly dancer with an albino snake and a 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$80;
IN THE AREA
Food & Drink
AMERICAN P.J. Clarke’s Longing for the Big Apple? You can track down a karaoke bar in Liberdade and butcher a few stanzas of ‘New York, New York’, or hit this São Paulo clone of the famous Manhattan establishment once frequented by Frank Sinatra. The NYC original created the ‘Cadillac’ burger, which was not only a favourite of the Chairman of the Board but also of Marilyn Monroe. PJ Clarke’s attempts to recreate (quite successfully) the post-war glory years sanctum of American authenticity, with tables draped in redchecked cloth – the old-style diner even had its chandeliers shipped over from New York. The ambience fits the home fries and the delicate onion rings perfectly. For dessert, the strawberry and raspberry cheesecake is exceptional, and short of flying 11 hours to Junior’s in Brooklyn, you won’t find anything else quite like it. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 568, Itaim Bibi (3078 2965/pjclarkes.com.br). Open noonmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri; noon1am Sat; 9.30am-midnight Sun. Main courses R$26-$47; lunch R$37.
MIDDLE EASTERN Zaatar A bright, no-
frills Lebanese eatery, Zaatar doesn’t score too highly in terms of first impressions. The functional space lacks anything in the way of warmth or charm, but its location just a stone’s throw from the Kinoplex shopping complex make it a handy option nonetheless, for the Itaim office crowd. The menu raises the bar with a solid choice of traditional Lebanese snacks, dips, salads, kebabs and sandwiches (including the beirute – the made-in-Brazil-but-never-inBeirut pitta bread sandwich), all presented on a compact, one-page menu. A good
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lunch choice is the ‘prato do dia’ (R$25) – a daily-changing midday meal – or a sandwich. For the latter, choose from two types of bread; saj, a flat bread cooked on the eponymous dome-shaped metal ovens just by the front door; or manoushe, a softer, round, baked flat bread. Rua Bandeira Paulista 485, Itaim Bibi (3071 2398/zaatarrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$17-$29.50.
Ibirapuera & Moema
Open from Monday to Maonday from 12pm to 2am
The complete and best Italian restaurant
ITALIAN Bráz We have heard it said that the pizza in São Paulo is so good, even the Italians are jealous. It’s a bold statement, but if you’re prepared to give it any credence at all, Bráz is probably a good place in which to make up your own mind, having been voted the city’s best pizzeria seven times by Veja. A typical meal, at the original Moema joint or any of the three other locations, should start with the house-speciality pão de linguiça (warm sausage bread) dipped in spiced-up olive oil followed by any number of outstanding pizzas. There doesn’t appear to be a bad choice on the menu; but standouts include the Fosca (smoked ham, mozzarella and catupiry cheese) and the four-cheese Favorita, with taleggio, pecorino, caciocavallo and gorgonzola. Rua Graúna 125, Moema (5561 0905/casabraz.com. br). Open 6.30pm-12.30am Mon-Thu; 6.30pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6.30pm-12.30am Sun. Medium pizza R$45-$55. Other locations Rua Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros (3037 7973); Rua Sergipe 406, Higienópolis (3255 8090). BUFFET Prêt no MAM Hobnob with
Trattoria, Buffet, Wine Cellar, Bar and Whisky Club
designers, journalists, artists and fashionistas dressed to kill at this stunning architectural gem with a fantastic (if pricey) lunch buffet, set inside the small Museu de Arte Moderna in Parque do Ibirapuera. The bright and lovely modern dining room is half-moon shaped, with glass walls that afford fantastic views of the sculpture garden designed by Roberto Burle Marx. On any given day, the dishes might range from ocean-fresh salmon to mouth watering meatloaf (the restaurant boasts that the chef’s daily picks come from an archive of 1,600 international recipes). This is your best bet for quality food if you’re spending the entire day at São Paulo Fashion Week, the Art Bienal, or one of the myriad other cultural activities that take place in the park. MAM, Parque do Ibiraupera (no number), Ibirapuera (5085 1306). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Buffet R$49-$56.
MEXICAN Sí Señor This lively Tex-
Free transfers from the city’s main hotels
Rua Treze de Maio, 848 Bela Vista - São Paulo/SP Phone: 11 2842.9620 www.villatavola.com.br
Mex themed bar is equally popular with couples, big groups and families. The menu varies slightly at each of the chain’s nine branches, but expect the usual cheeseand-bean-based suspects like nachos, tacos and burritos, accompanied by a fun, fairly lowbrow selection of cocktails. A lunch buffet lineup adds interest to the menu, while any main course ordered on a Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday evening earns you a voucher to have the same again free on a Monday or Tuesday. Arriba! Alameda Jauaperi 626, Moema (3476 4650/sisenor.com.br). Open noon3pm; 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$25-$85 (for two); lunch R$32-$42. Other locations Citywide.
Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana
– perfectly-breaded pork swimming in a mild, mud-hued curry sauce. The latter was authentic (the sauce is imported) and surprisingly tasty, but may seem a tad pricey for what is essentially Japanese fast food. Rua Thomaz Gonzaga 84, Liberdade (3208 6179/kazusaopaulo.com.br). Open 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat; 11am-3pm, 6-9pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$42.
ITALIAN Cantina Roperto When choosing a restaurant from a street chockfull of options like Bixiga’s 13 de Maio, the time-honoured trick of opting for the one with the longest queue is not one for the hungry. But for those willing to be patient, the huge portions of excellent pasta at this old-school classic are well worth the wait. At Sunday lunch, expect a roaringly full restaurant (and up to an hour’s wait); but once you’re seated, the good couvert and the poignant pictures of the once-semi-famous on the walls should keep you entertained until the mains arrive. Each pasta dish is plenty for two: give the spaghetti with homemade pesto or the carbonara a whirl, though nonBrazilian palates may find the penne alla puttanesca over-salted. Choose your wine with care: some of the Italian reds can be an unwelcomingly attention-grabbing part of the meal. Rua 13 de Maio 634, Bixiga (3288 2573/cantinaroperto.com.br). Open 11.30am-midnight Mon-Thu; 11.30-1am Fri, Sat; 11.30am-11.30pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$130 (for two); couvert R$7-$9.50.
ITALIAN Speranza This is one of the most famous pizzerias in the city, founded in the late-1950s in Bixiga, one of the city’s Italian neighbourhoods per definizione. Order a hunk of sausage bread as a starter, pending the arrival of the pizza of your dreams. Because take it from us: the pizza marinara DOC and the margherita caprese – made with an exquisite tomato sauce, all Italian ingredients and within the norms established by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana – are the kind of pizza you could find yourself dreaming of, once you’ve sampled one, for a very, very long time. Rua 13 de Maio 1004, Bela Vista (3288 8502/pizzaria.com.br). Open 6pm1.30am Mon-Fri; 6pm-2am Sat; 6pm-1am Sun. Main courses R$42-$68.50. Other location Avenida Sabiá 786, Moema (5051 1229).
CHINESE Chi Fu Just a quick hop from Liberdade Metrô lies the recently renovated Chi Fu. The clientele, almost exclusively Chinese, sit at vast tables with a minimum of six diners at each (memo to self: it’s not the spot for a romantic date). There are a paltry 201 dishes to choose from on the telephone-directory-sized menu – it’s just that if you can’t speak Mandarin, it’s going to come down to pointing at the images on the menu and hoping for the best. The exotica comes at a price (R$180 or so), but for the mains, Chi Fu is luxuriously cheap. Praça Carlos Gomes 200, Liberdade (3112 1698). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 11am4pm, 6-10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$20-$100. BARGAIN
INDIAN Tandoor With only a handful of Indian restaurants in São Paulo, curry cravings can be hard to satisfy unless you go the home-cooked route. However, with fresh flavours and an
Critics’ choice Table for two
KOREAN Cho Sun Ok Korean-food
virgins can’t go wrong at this Liberdade local: just order the Korean barbecue. It comes with sweet beef and a huge helping of mushrooms and vegetables, cooked right there at the table (R$85), and is served with an array of side dishes including kimchi (fermented vegetables). Pure shots of Soju (R$24, 360ml bottle), Korea’s national tipple – a kind of smooth saké, distilled from cereals – are de rigueur. Thankfully for your brain cells, the evening session closes early; but Cho Sun Ok also does a weekday executive lunch (R$48) with a spreads of hot and cold dishes chosen by the chef. Avenida da Aclimação 502, Liberdade (3271 9621/3208 2116). Open noon-3pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$29$50; lunch R$48.
JAPANESE Espaço Kazu This new Japanese deli/bistro sets out to centralise an array of Japanese specialities into one unintimidating space. It breaks down like this: the main dining space (main courses R$23-$35) is a busy, Japanese-style cafeteria specialising in udon (noodles), yakitori (skewered chicken) and teppanyaki (irongrilled meats and fish), as well as sushi. Upstairs, there’s Kazu Sake Emporium – a straight-out-of-Shibuya sake bar boasting over 100 types of sipping sakes (R$25$450) and Go!Go!Curry, which whips out a small menu of Japanese curries (R$26-$38), the highlight being the kanazawa curry
Food & Drink
A space for Italian cuisine and culture
Carlota For the perfect, candelit dinner à deux, park up in a cosy corner of Carlota, a classic restaurant in a whitewashed brick house in Higienópolis. Chou When it comes to romance, this understated spot in Pinheiros is a guaranteed winner. Bag a table out the back, under a canopy of trees and fairy lights. Due Cuochi Cucina Arrive early or book ahead to get a window seat, looking out over the city, at the Shopping Cidade Jardim branch of this Italian favourite.
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Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini ITALIAN Vicolo Nostro Hidden amongst the gleaming corporate towers of Berrini, Vicolo Nostro is one of the few quality restaurants in the area that opens beyond lunchtime. The vast terracotta-coloured space is popular for power lunches and business dinners, but not exclusively so. Expect authentic Italian food: it won the Ospitalità Italiana seal of approval in 2011 for following the traditions of Italian cuisine to the letter. For mains, the chef’s recommendation of conger eel with a crab crust and black rice was impressive, though the cappelletti a little over-salted. It’s a touch on the pricey side, but if you’re good for it, the charm and good food make this an excellent choice for toasting that million-dollar contract. Rua Jataituba 29, Brooklin (5561 5287/ vicolonostro.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$39-$105; lunch R$38$56; couvert R$16.
Brás, Mooca & Tatuapé PORTUGUESE Bacalhoeiro This relaxed,
elegant restaurant in Tatuapé serves a classic of Portuguese cuisine: bachalhau (salt cod). Kick things off with the octopus starter, fried in bacon fat with coarse salt, followed by the perfectlysalted bacalhau a lagareiro – salt cod with golden onion, served with garlic slices, broccoli, green olives and baked potato. For dessert, both the sweet rice powdered with cinnamon and the delicate sericaria do Alentejo – a milk-and-egg pudding – are delicious.. Rua Azevedo Soares 1580, Tatuapé (2293 1010/bacalhoeiro.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight TueFri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun Main courses R$58-$98; lunch R$39; couvert R$17.
PIZZA Castelões This classic Italian
restaurant, located in one of the city’s traditional Italian neighbourhoods, was founded in 1924, and its dusty decor and antique pictures give it an authentically nostalgic feel that many newer pizzerias try and fail to copy. The Castelões pizza, with handmade sausage and mozzarella, is recommended, as is the house margherita; but no matter which one you pick, rest assured that the dough will be
light, the crust scorched and sensual, the tomato sauce packed with basil, and it’ll be topped off with cheese of impeccable quality. Rua Jairo Góis 126, Brás (3229 0542). Metrô 3, Brás. Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight daily. Main courses R$39-$64; couvert R$9.
Food & Drink
impressive range of dishes, Tandoor is a good choice. To try a good mix, go for the meat-based thali – a mixed platter that includes rice, samosas, lentils, raita, lamb curry and tandoori chicken – the latter clearly cooked in a genuine clay oven. Our favourite dish, though, was the perfectly spiced chicken karahi – a genuine taste of India. Our only criticisms were the over-cooked naan bread, slow service and a less-than-lively atmosphere. Not to mention the expense, with main courses costing R$32-$50. Though given the lack of competition, this is probably your best bet for a curry fix in São Paulo. Rua Doutor Rafael de Barros 408, Paraíso (3885 9470/ tandoor.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pmmidnight Sat; noon-4pm, 7-10pm Sun. Main courses R$25.90-$55.90; lunch buffet R$29.90.
The South BARBECUE Fogo de Chão Brazil’s best-known barbecued meat franchise has three restaurants in São Paulo, plus branches in Brasília, Salvador, Belo Horizonte and across the USA. The owners are gaúchos, from Brazil’s South – the country’s cattle hotspot. So unlike some rodízios, Brazilian steak house restaurants, they don’t bother mucking up the menu with irrelevant sushi: just the best cuts of Brazilian meat, like picanha, fraldinha and maminha. Grab your pincers and select the bits you like the look of from the big chunks of deliciously salted flesh the waiters bring around. Note that Fogo has one of the most extensive wine lists in the city. For dessert, try the chocolate mousse with port. Avenida Santo Amaro 6824, Santo Amaro (5524 0500/fogodechao. com.br). Open noon-midnight MonSat; noon-10.30pm Sun. Fixed price R$103. Other locations Avenida dos Bandeirantes 538, Vila Olímpia (5505 0791); Avenida Moreira Guimarães 964, Moema (5056 1795); Travessa Casalbuono 120 (Shopping Center Norte), Vila Guilherme (2089 1736). SPANISH Maripili Paulistanos in search of authentic Spanish grub head straight for Maripili – a small, simple restaurant whose owner, chef and waiting staff all have Spanish roots. Try a pintxo de tortilla and follow it up with a nice cup of espresso; then close your eyes and imagine you’re in Madrid – because this potato tortilla has all the volume, texture and moisture you’d find at any good Spanish diner. Maripili also serves a very good gazpacho and rabo de toro (oxtail), cooked in red wine. Rua Alexandre Dumas 1152, Santo Amaro (5181 4422/maripili.com.br). Open noon5pm, 6-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7-11pm Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$10-$34.
The North BRAZILIAN Mocotó Serving up arguably the best Brazilian food in the city, Mocotó is a foodie’s delight. Located in the anonymous mass of higgledy-piggledy houses in the far northeastern suburbs, what it takes to eat at Mocotó is time, both in getting there and waiting for a table; so come with patience and a hearty appetite. The restaurant’s young chef, Rodrigo Oliveira, creatively updates traditional North Eastern dishes such as baião de dois (black eyed peas, rice and a rennet cheese) or carne de sol – sun-cured beef – served with a whole head of garlic and baby chillies on the side. Oliveira even makes his own pork scratchings – torresmo. To finish, don’t miss the homemade icecream studded with pieces of rapadura – a solid fudge of unrefined sugarcane juice. And a shot or two of cachaça, don’t you think? – to aid digestion, of course. Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto 1100, Vila Medeiros (2951 3056/mocoto.com.br). Open noon-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$15-$60; couvert R$3.90-$6.90.
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Bars & Cafes Bar listings New in town Jazz B How to use the listings This section lists our pick of São Paulo’s bars, updated to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable. Note that a cover charge sometimes includes credit at the bar. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.
Tubaína Decorated with celebrity posters from the ’80s, Tubaína mixes up tasty regional cocktails like the Cosmopolitan do Agreste – a passion-fruit, strawberry, chilli and cachaça creation. It also offers more than twenty types of Tubaína – a brand of soft drinks, made in inland São Paulo state. Following the caipira (rural) theme, traditional country dishes like pamonha (creamed corn) aren’t bad either. Rua Haddock Lobo 74, Consolação (3129 4930/tubainabar.com.br). Open 6pm-1am Mon-Thu; 6pm-3am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$6.50; caipirinha R$14; cover R$0-$4.
NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the bar is popular with a gay crowd. means the menu has full meal options. is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.
Rose Velt Taking its name from Praça Roosevelt – the recently remodelled square opposite – Rose Velt has become a hangout for students, actors and creative types. Not surprisingly, given its location next to the intimate Espaço Parlapatões theatre. Inside, dim lights and other interesting decor details include a street surface recreated along one wall, complete with chunks of pavement and manhole covers, lending a trash-chic edge. Go on Wednesday nights for live music or any night to sample one of more than 120 types of cachaça, served straight up or in a caipirinha – we love the perfectly spiced chilli one. Praça Franklin Delano Roosevelt 124b, Consolação (3129 5498/ rosevelt.com.br). Open 7pm-12.30am Tue; 6.30pm-12.30am Wed, Thu; 7pm-2.30am Fri; 8pm-2.30am Sat; 7-11.30pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$13.
Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Bar da Dona Onça Don’t be misled by the ‘bar’ in the name – this classic Centro destination is as much restaurant as watering hole, and its extensive menu, including pasta and meat dishes, draws crowds for both lunch and dinner. It’s well worth a visit even if it’s only to suss out the location, tucked in on the ground floor of Niemeyer’s iconic Copan building, and within walking distance of many of the city’s historic sights. Inside, leopard-print decor and wood panelling lend a cosy charm. Don’t miss the cashew caipiroska – vodka with a housemade cashew compote. Rua Ipiranga 200, loja 2729, Centro (3257 2016/bardadonaonca.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-11pm Mon-Wed; noon-midnight Thu-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7, caipirinha R$18.
Suíte Savalas It’s a curious facet of modern life that anything from the ’70s is cool. Especially if it was on TV. Cashing in on that trend, the name of Greek-American actor Aristotelis ‘Telly’ Savalas, best known for starring in the ’70s crime drama Kojak, is the moniker of choice of this bar. Cinematic references aside, what Suíte Savalas is really all about is being a New York-style, no-nonsense bar. The low red lights and clean-without-being-pristine interior fill up with a young, agreeably mixed bunch of customers. We like. Rua Mato Grosso 398, Consolação (3259 4355). Open 9pm-3am Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$6.50; caipirinha R$15; cover R$15.
Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Get a taste of SP’s jazz scene at the new Jazz B. Opened where Bar B once stood, it’s a little sister to the well established Jazz nos Fundos, famously set in a Pinheiros parking lot. An intimate setting for live music at night, Jazz B is currently only open Saturday nights, with a more extensive programme, we hear, coming soon. Read more at j.mp/jazzb. Rua General Jardim 43, Vila Buarque (3083 5975/facebook.com/club.JazzB). Open 8pm-2.30am Sat. Prices chope R$6-$10; caipirinha R$14; couvert R$25.
Consolação & Higienópolis Drosophyla With a chaotically colourful decor – a style they call ‘contemporary baroque’, but which might be better described as ‘eccentric artist’s upmarket squat’ – this bar is popular with a slightly older, more bohemian crowd. From the outside, it’s just a quiet doorway on a gloomy street. But inside, the main event is a leafy, warmly illuminated garden. Rua Pedro Taques 80, Consolação (3120 5535/ drosophyla.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 7pm-2am Mon-Wed; 8pm-2am Thu; 8pm-3am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$13; minimum spend R$20-$40.
Kabul Tucked away in a two-storey house-turned-bar on a side street just off traffic-choked Rua da Consolação, Kabul offers a mixed bag of soulful musical styles to match its mixed drinks. Patrons sit in various earthtoned parlours decorated with abstract panels and paintings by local artists, while the bartenders hustle together orders of strawberry, kiwi or pineapple caipirinhas destined for tables full of twenty-something hipsters. There’s often standingroom only for the jammin’ live samba, soul and rock shows. Rua Pedro Taques 124, Consolação (2503 2810/ kabul.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 9pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices 600ml beer R$7.98; caipirinha R$14.95; cover R$10$20.
Dona Felicidade Vila Romana, near Perdizes, is off the central São Paulo beaten track, but regulars of this friendly, down-home establishment say Dona Felicidade (‘Mrs Happiness’) is worth the trek for the milk pudding with coconut (R$8) she serves. The lady herself declares it will make you faint; but diehard clubbers swear by its restorative powers after a heavy night out. Rua Tito 21, Vila Romana (3864 3866/donafelicidade. com.br). Open 11.30am-1am TueFri; 11.30am-8pm Sat, public holidays; 11.30am-6pm Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$12. Lebowski This cosy Barra Funda bar crams in as many references to the 1998 Coen brothers movie, The Big Lebowski, as possible, from bowling-pin lights to an alley-styled bar counter, and most important of all, a menu dedicated to the white russian. Those who aren’t partial to The Dude’s milky-coffee cocktail of choice can pick from a solid selection of other vodka-based drinks, and even some vodka-based twists on other classics. Take ten steps into this bar and you’ll have already scoped out the entire space. But while it may be small, there’s still room for a tiny, darkened dancefloor, where DJs spin a loud post-hipster soundtrack from the back of the house. Rua Barra Funda 1070, Barra Funda (lebowskisp.com.br). Open 11pm-5am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7,50; caipiroska R$16. No credit cards.
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Bar do Biu You could easily miss this low-key boteco, unless it’s a Saturday afternoon, when crowds spill out the door. Quench your thirst here after a trip to the Benedito Calixto market, or a nose around Choque Cultural, just a few steps away. Be prepared to wait for a table outside, or head inside to grab a table in a space adorned with football team strips. Don’t miss the famed baião de dois (from R$28) – a north-eastern buttery rice dish studded with jerky. Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 776, Pinheiros (3081 6739/bardobiu.com.br). Open 11am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$5; caipirinha R$10.
9226/barfilial.com.br). Open 5pm-4am Mon-Fri; noon-3am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15.50.
Food & Drink
Vila Madalena & Pinheiros
Mercearia São Pedro Straightforward and buzzing, this boteco is something of a city institution, doubling up as a bookshop and video rental joint, with shelves stacked with old VHS tapes, dust-covered books and erotic manga comics. Head here for the cheap buffet lunch (R$16-$17.50), though in the evenings expect slow service and to wait at least an hour for a table. For more immediate gratification, squeeze through the groups of media and artsy types gathered outside and order a beer at the bar inside, where you get the sense that things can’t have changed much since it opened more than forty years ago. Rua Rodésia 34, Vila Madalena (3815 7200/merceariasaopedro.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 11am1am Mon-Sat; 1-6pm Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$12.
Cervejaria Nacional No beer in São Paulo travels a shorter distance from barrel to glass than at this microbrewery-cum-bar. Sit at the counter on the first floor overlooking Piratininga Welcome the vast fermentation to ye olde São Paulo tanks below, or head up at this intimate, lowto the top-floor dining ty r a p y r lit live music joint. area for a cosier spot. niversad a new n a d n 2 n Everything from the If you like beer, go the bands a mark the e iv L whole hog with the al IPA niversary decor (think faded n o s a e s sepia photos of the degustação (R$19.90) – wer’s an microbre0pm, 26 May. city) to the waiters, a 150ml sampler of all -1 3 dressed in flat caps and C five of the home brews R$35 bow ties – some of them – a weiss beer, a lager, an have been working here since M India pale ale (IPA), a brown ale the bar opened twenty years ago – and a stout. Friendly service and good evokes days of yore, though it’s all done Y food make this an excellent choice for a in a thoroughly charming and tasteful group night out: go for the live jazz on way. Up on the mezzanine, bands play CM Tuesday nights and blues on Thursdays. jazz and MPB while down below, a mix Avenida Pedroso de Morais 604, MY of couples and groups of all ages tap Pinheiros (3628 5000/cervejarianacional. their toes whilst tucking into caipiroskasCY com.br). Open 5pm-midnight Mon-Wed; and pastéis. Rua Wisard 149, Vila 5pm-1.30am Thu; noon-1.30am Fri, Madalena (3032 9775/piratiningabar. CMY Sat. Prices chope R$7.90; caipirinha com.br). Open 6pm-2am Mon-Thu; R$14; cover R$12. 6pm-3am Fri, Sat. Prices chope K Donostia Named after the Basque R$6.90; caipirinha R$12; cover charge seaside town reputed to have the most R$12-$15. bars per square kilometre, this pintxo Ringue Lounge Expanses of red (Basque-style tapas) bar is as much velvet, chandeliers and walls covered about eating as it is drinking. Legs of with glossy photos of famous pugilists imported jamón Ibérico (R$125 per and celebrities dressed as boxers – David serving) and jamón serrano (R$56 per Bowie is one – give away the theme. Yes, serving) as well as artfully presented it’s the noble art, as the gloves draped plates of pintxos – juicy garlic prawns, around an angel statue and the name, thick wedges of tortilla, stuffed roasted Ringue Lounge, suggests. In spite of the peppers and the like – top the L-shaped slightly kitsch decor, it’s a good spot for wooden bar. Pull up a stool and graze a drink, and livens up when the in-house your way, one by delicious one, through DJ gets going. Rua Lisboa 191, Pinheiros the varied options on the menu, or just (3082 7904/ringuelounge.com.br). Open help yourself to whatever catches your 8pm-2am Tue-Thu; 8pm-4am Fri, Sat. eye on the bar. With six different red Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha wines by the glass, and cava at R$9 per R$15.50; cover R$0-10. glass, the evening’s only challenge is what to choose first. Rua Simão Álvares Twelve Bistro It’s all about beer and 484, Vila Madalena (3034 0996/ tasty, home-cooked food here. The donostia.com.br). Open 7pm-midnight eclectic menu – created by the Australian Tue-Wed; 7pm-1am Thu-Fri; 1pm-1am owner and chef Gregor Caisley – is well Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12. executed. The curried lamb pastéis with Filial This bar is owned by the Altman mango chutney (R$16), a tasty take on brothers, who opened their first Vila the much-loved deep-fried Brazilian Madalena bar in 1980 and dedicated it snack, are a good bet to start. Team them to choro. Since then the bar, once called with one of a respectable selection of the Clube do Choro and now known as beers, with plenty of Brazilian options Filial, has moved around the area, but it’s to choose from, including the popular still the after-show bar of choice for local Colorado brand. Beers from around the musicians. There’s an impressive list of world also get a good look in. Rua Simão caipirinhas – try the cachaça with lima Álvares 1018,Vila Madalena (3562 7550/ da pérsia (lime). Sit outside and watch twelvebistrot.com.br). Open noon-midnight the Vila Madalena wildlife stumble by. Tue-Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Prices chope Rua Fidalga 254, Vila Madalena (3813 R$4.90; caipirinha R$14.
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Food & Drink
Jardins At Nine Or should that be At Nineties? Because pleasant as this cocktail bar is, with its leather-and-wood interior, black and white Marilyn Monroe photos and designer chillout beats pulsating politely – and a little too loudly – out of the sound system, it does feel like you’ve stepped into a designer hotel bar around 1999. It’s all about the cocktails here, and the Strawberry Pepper (R$31) comes recommended, though you might not be able to find it without one of the little torches they give customers to read the menus, so dark is it back in 1999. Rua da Consolação 2893, Jardim Paulista (3061 3933/atnine.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7pm-late Mon-Fri; 8pm-late Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$23; minimum spend R$10-$50. Bar Balcão Find a space at the curvy wooden counter that snakes all the way around the ground floor of this welcoming, friendly bar. Then settle in with a chope and soak up the atmosphere. Popular with journalists, artists and descolado Jardins residents, the twists and turns of the communal bar and the convivial atmosphere make this the best bar in town for conversation, including those struck up between customers, cheek by jowl at the bar. There’s no music and no fuss here – it’s simple and stylish, attracting a slightly older, funky crowd. The food, like the service, is simple but good quality – and that giant pop art painting on the wall? It’s a genuine Roy Lichtenstein. Rua Dr. Melo Alves 150, Jardim Paulista (3063 6091). Open 6pm-1am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.60; caipirinha R$11.80.
Mon-Thu; noon-2am Fri, Sat; noon-3pm, 6pm-1am Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$8; caipirinha R$17. O’Malley’s This big, noisy gaff would love to be called a traditional Irish pub, and a home-from-home for every expat in town. But O’Malley’s is just as popular with Brazilians as it is with homesick airline pilots looking for someone to talk to – or more – on a layover. It’s more like one of the chain pubs you find inside London railway stations than a cosy country boozer; but there are beers from Mexico, the Czech Republic and Belgium, and there’s nowhere better to get drunk while watching Irish rugby, if that’s your bag. Alameda Itú 1529, Jardim Paulista (3086 0780/omalleysbar.net). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-4am Mon-Thu; noon-5am Fri, Sat; noon-4am Sun. Prices chope R$10; caipirinha R$13; cover R$10-$35 (after 9pm). Squat The squatters in this twostorey hangout tend to be trendy twentysomethings who set up camp for parties and pre-club warm-up drinks. The dim lighting creates an intimate atmosphere though be warned, the place gets packed out from Thursdays to Saturdays when DJs – spinning anything from rock to Latino tunes – liven up the crowd. Flirt your socks off downstairs or bag a table upstairs in the mezzanine where, with the volume turned down, conversation is more audible. Alameda Itu 1548, Jardim Paulista (3081 4317/ barsquat.com.br). Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$16; minimum spend R$25-$60.
Bar Numero This slick bar is in Itaim Bibi the uptown, top-ranking category, no & Vila Olímpia doubt whatsoever. Just to get up its Bottagallo It’s easy to be misled striking walkway and through the door by the hum of chatter as you approach means a minimum spend of R$100 per Bottagallo, or by the huddles of people person, plus a reservation; but if you outside, relaxing on the long benches get the chance to step inside, take it. with a beer or standing around chatting. The dramatic interior is emblematic of Well-fed diners, you conclude, having a its architect Isay Weinfeld’s virtuoso post-meal smoke. But no. They’re waiting; touch, as is Número’s mysterious facade, and happily – because the wait is well where a set of monolithic numbers worth it. Kick off with one of the in relief on the wall, like no-fuss house cocktails to get the enigmatically placed things going – the Vesper contents of a typesetter’s martini, with a hint of lemon, box, is the only sign the bar is a good call, whether piccolo needs. Rua da Consolação (R$18) or regular (R$23). 3585, Jardim Paulista rena o L z e h C Once inside and settled at (3061 3995/barnumero.com. Eating e e S one of the rustic wooden br). Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Out tables, just let the efficient, Prices small bottle beer R$12; friendly waiters keep the cold caipirinha R$28; mimimum chope coming, and order a plate or two spend R$100-$200. of the delicious, made-for-sharing tapas. Brown Sugar If this Jardins hotspot Rua Jesuíno Arruda 520, Itaim Bibi (3078 were a musical genre, it would be more 2858/bottagallo.com.br). Open 6.30pmsmooth jazz than rock’n’roll, despite the midnight Mon; 6.30pm-1am Tue-Thu; Rolling Stones theme. A beautiful crowd 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am Fri; noonfills the ’70s lounge bar tucked away at 2am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Prices chope the back of an Italian restaurant. Head R$6; caipirinha R$16.50. straight through the restaurant to the Coisa Boa This glass-walled bar low-lit, low-ceilinged space where the dedicated to interesting ales comprises a barman, raised up like a DJ in a booth, wooden deck on the street, a main bar and spins his cocktail shakers. To drink? The a quieter mezzanine. But the best table in apple martini is a good choice from a small the house is the largest one – a long, low but classic cocktail menu. Complementing communal table (technically the waiting the quaffs, choose from one of the area) beside the supermarket-style chiller sharing dishes like flavoured foccacias or cabinet from where you can survey an bruschettas, or skip the savouries and dive impressive range of more than 200 brews straight into a generous slice of US-style from around the world. Help yourself to cheesecake. Rua Padre João Manuel 1055, a bottle of pale ale, weissbier or porter, Jardim Paulista (3063 4249/brownsugar. or ask the friendly ‘beer sommelier’ for com.br). Open noon-3pm, 6pm-1am
IN THE AREA
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Dublin With its classic dark wood and dim lights aesthetic, Dublin is what you might call an Irish pub with a Brazilian twist. Chope and caipirinhas are served alongside pints of Guinness, and an eclectic menu covers options like pizza, baked potato and Thai chicken. Most nights are set to the sound of a live band followed by DJ, making this a great place for an impromptu boogie. Rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso 178, Vila Olímpia (3044 4149/dublin.com.br). Open 6pm-late, Tue-Fri; 8pm-late Sat. Prices pint of beer R$13; caipirinha R$14.50; cover R$5-R$60. MyNY Bar Rolling in its tumbler like a heavy crystal ball, the spherical ice in MyNY’s Old Fashioned cocktail is designed to melt at the perfect rate: slowly. Designed? Ice? Oh yes. As ambitious in its mixology as it is unpretentious in its old-school Manhattan decor and service, MyNY Bar is the kind of place that imports a Japanese ice machine, then matches each piece of ice to its drinks. It’s a nerdy attention to detail that extends into the all-round experience of a night in the bar, slotted into a ground-floor booth or overseeing the bartenders from a table on the mezzanine walkway. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1285, Itaim (3071 1166/mynybar.com.br). Open 6pm-1am Mon; 6pm-1.30am Tue, Wed; 6pm-2.30am Thu; 6pm3.30am Fri; 8pm-3am Sat. Prices chope R$6.40; caipirinha R$18. Na Mata Café Blending cocktail bar, restaurant and live music hotspot, Na Mata Café serves a constituency of animated professionals in suits, and social butterflies in figure-hugging clothes and heels. Airy electronica accompanies the late cocktail hour, with exotic grape-andkey-lime caipirinhas and Red Bull party combos for any gang of friends in need of an extra pick-me-up. The not-verywell-appointed dining area – rectangular, with rows of tables on two levels running parallel to the bar – does have comfy, plush seating, perfect for a satisfying dish of duck breast in wine sauce, or a less pretentious cheeseburger. Stay on for the rotating musical acts – from pop to rock, dance and MPB – that perform on weeknights, especially if the Stevie Wonder tribute band is on. Rua da Mata 70, Itaim Bibi (3079 0300/namata.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm Mon; noon3.30pm, 7.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$9; caipirinha R$13.90; cover R$30-$50.
Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana As Mineiras Set on a quiet residential street, this bar and its adjacent store are a twin homage to São Paulo’s neighbouring state of Minas Gerais. Folk art chickens and bottles of hot peppers from Minas adorn the shelves
around the bar. Take a seat beneath the wagon-wheel chandeliers and take your pick of shareable mineiro staples like pastel de angú (corn meal fritters) and bolinhos de feijão (bean balls). The real draw, though, is the drinks menu, with a comprehensive selection of cachaças and bonus happy hour specials that includes 2-for-1 caipirinhas every day except Saturday. Rua França Pinto 965, Vila Mariana (5083 5835/asmineiras.com. br). Open 4-11.30pm Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.
Food & Drink
help navigating the selection. To soak up the suds, we sampled the picadinho with a brie sauce (R$35) – a (not quite hot enough) mound of beef strips sitting on a cheesey sauce with bread for mopping. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 909, Itaim Bibi (3073 0773). Open 5pm-midnight TueFri; noon-midnight Sat, Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$10.90-$159.90, caipirinha R$19.
The Blue Pub Set just round the back of the Maksoud Plaza hotel, The Blue Pub is a good place for after-work drinks on a Friday. The main upstairs bar has the feel of an old pub that’s been given a brush-up; while in the low-lit downstairs, things are cosier, with a classic pub bar. The bar has an array of good imported bottled beer, and Heineken, Newcastle Brown and Guinness on tap – plus spicy vegetable pasties. It’s not, however, blue at all – it’s more of a mousy, steely grey. How very British. Alameda Ribeirão Preto 384, Bela Vista (3284 8338/thebluepub.com. br). Open 4pm-2am Mon-Wed; 4pm-3am Thu-Sat; 4pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$8; caipirinha R$8; minimum spend R$10-$25.
Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cervejaria Ô Fiô Ale aficionados and lager lovers will be drawn to this bar’s more-than-comprehensive beer menu. Come on a sunny afternoon to enjoy the pleasant outdoor patio space while you make a start on trying the hundreds of Brazilian and international beers. The Brazilian beers are divided by region, with more than 25 beers from São Paulo state alone. Baden Baden’s smooth and filling stout gives Guinness a subtropical run for its money; or how about one of the ten labels from Rio Grande do Sul, where the influence of Brazil’s German immigrants is most obvious? A varied clientele comes on Saturday afternoons to listen to live samba de raiz while lining their stomachs with a filling feijoada (R$32). Rua Lício Marcondes Amaral 51, Morumbi (3721 6636/ cervejariaofio.com.br). Open 6pm-late Mon-Fri; noon-late Sat, Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.50-$200; caipirinha R$12; cover R$7-$9.
The North Frangó Perched on a hill overlooking the city in northern suburb Freguesia do Ó is a São Paulo mecca for chicken and beer. Go early on a sunny afternoon and bag a table outside on the square overlooking the church. Kick things off with the infamous chicken and catupiry coxinha. Beer lovers should try one of the beer-tasting menus, which meander through Brazilian, British and even rare Trappist beers. Each one is served at the right temperature and in the correct shape of glass. Consider lining your stomach first with a frango completo – a spit-roast chicken served with polenta, farofa and salad. Largo da Matriz Nossa Senhora do Ó 168, Freguesia do Ó (3932 4818/frangobar.com.br) Open 11ammidnight Tue-Thu; 11am-2am Fri, Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.60; caipirinha R$14.
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Coffee high Sabor da Coleita
How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches. We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. NEW means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.
Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro CAFÉ Café Girondino Named after a famous café from the days when chic hotels were located in the centre and their clients needed an elite spot for a caffeine fix, today’s Girondino is more of an island outpost. It’s one of the few places in the area where you can go for a coffee on weekends or evenings after hitting an exhibition or a film at the CCBB or one of the other cultural institutions nearby. At midday, there’s a full lunch menu including pasta and meat dishes. Rua Boa Vista 365, Centro (3229 4574/cafegirondino.com. br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 7.30am10.30pm Mon-Thu; 7.30am-11pm Fri; 8am-8pm Sat; 8am-7pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.20; sandwich R$9.50-$31.90. CAFÉ Café No Vidro Dedicated to
doing it the old fashioned way, former businessman Aldo de Rosa’s downtown establishment is all about filter coffee. His sister-in-law s in charge of the brewing and with each new batch, she rings a brass bell to let passersby know that the fresh coffee is served. Satisfy a sweet tooth with one of Loureiro’s cakes, like the endearingly named engorda marido (R$3.80) – husband fattener – a heavy cake made with milk. Rua Sete de Abril 111, República (3129 8523). Open 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri. Prices filter coffee R$1.50; sandwiches R$4.50-$6.50.
Consolação & Higienópolis CAFÉ Mate Por Favor A well-loved
infusion all over South America, in Brazil mate is drunk as tea, usually cold. At Mate Por Favor’s convivial open counter, go for a mate with lemon (R$2.50), if you can find a spot. The place is much in demand, as it’s located right in front of the Espaço Unibanco cinema. Rua Augusta 1492, Consolação (3266 7822) Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Sat; 1-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$2.50; snacks R$2.50-$3.50. No credit cards.
Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia CAFÉ Café Sophie One of the most romantic coffee shops in town, Café Sophie has a decadent boudoir feel, with red velvet curtains and crystal chandeliers. Think Audrey Hepburn and George Peppard rather than Harry and Sally as you sup the Sophie Apaixonada – a glass of coffee mixed with chocolate, red fruit jelly, grated nutmeg and a small jug of whiskey on the side. Rua Tabapuã 961, Itaim Bibi (3071 2535/cafesophie. com.br). Open 11am-9pm Mon-Sat. Prices cafezinho R$4.30; sandwiches R$14.30-$16.90.
Ibirapuera & Moema BAKERY Blés D’Or Temptation awaits
Food & Drink
São Paulo may be one of the largest coffee-producing states in Brazil, but not many people know that the capital itself is home to a 10,000-square-metre urban coffee plantation (‘cafezal’), with 1,300 coffee trees planted at the Instituto Biológico, right in the heart of the city. On 24 May – National Coffee Day – visitors to the institute can celebrate the coffee harvest with the ‘Sabor da Colheita’ (‘flavour of the crop’) event. After breakfast and speeches, roll up your sleeves, grab a basket and head off into the plantation to help pick the red and green, peanut-sized coffee fruits. Sabor da Colheita is 10am-1pm, 24 May. Instituto Biológico, Avenida Conselheiro Rodrigues Alves 1252, Vila Mariana (5579 4234/biologico.sp.gov.br). FREE
Vila Madalena & Pinheiros CAFÉ Coffee Lab Isabela Raposeiras,
the renowned barista and proprietress of Coffee Lab, has created a quirky space here in Vila Madalena. Fittingly, the café resembles a lab, with staff kitted out in overalls making coffee with a nerdy attention to detail. All that’s missing are the Bunsen burners, but there’s an array of coffee-making paraphernalia to make up for it: the coffee-zealot menu boasts all manner of brewing methods. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1340, Vila Madalena (3375 7400/coffeelab.com.br). Open 10am7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Prices cafezinho R$4.50. CAFÉ Ekoa Café For coffee with
a conscience, head to Ekoa, where sustainability and the environment are at the heart of everything they produce and serve. The food is organic and follows the slow food ethic. As you might expect, there are plenty of veggie choices. If you’re looking to hook into the local Green scene, Ekoa organises a monthly Green Drinks happy hour, when guest speakers come to discuss everything to do with environmental awareness. Rua Fradique Coutinho 914, Vila Madalena (3032 7842/ekoacafe.com.br). Open 10am-9pm Mon-Fri; noon-8pm Sat. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$9.20-$18.50.
Jardins BAKERY A Quinta do Marquês ‘Our pastel de nata is as good as the original ones from Belém,’ boasts one of this bakery’s diligent waiters, confident in his comparison with one of Lisbon’s most famous delicacies. And he ain’t lying. It’s worth making a special trip to this bakery-cum-restaurant just to slowly devour one of the Portuguese custard tarts. For something savoury, try the bolinhos de bacalhau – fried codfish balls (R$1.80 each). Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 1853, Jardim Paulistano (3371 2300/aquintadomarques.com.br). Open 6am-11.30pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$3, sandwiches R$7-$8. Other location Rodovia Castelo Branco km 57. BAKERY St. Etienne This popular
meeting-point bakery and confectioner has a great breakfast buffet (R$11.90 Mon-Fri; R$28 Sat, Sun), a popular happy hour, and tables out on the pavement. It’s open 24/7 and the buzz is constant, whether for chope-drinking or soup-sipping, sweet treats or cold cuts. Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 1417, Jardim Paulista (3885 0691/santaetienne.com.br). Open 24 hours daily Prices cafezinho R$3.30; sandwiches R$8.90-$29.50. Other location Avenida Diógenes Ribeiro de Lima 2555, Alto de Pinheiros (3021 1200). 24 HR
here in the form of bread fresh from the bakery, or sweet delights from the pâtisserie, such as eclairs and mille feuilles. Stop in for a coffee or go for the weekend brunch buffet, with scrambled eggs, crêpes and cakes. Rua Tuim 653, Moema (5532 0183/blesdor.com. br) Open 7.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri; 8.30am-10.30pm Sat; 8.30am-6pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.20; sandwiches R$19-$28.
Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana café Nicecup One of the best cafés in
the Vila Mariana and Chácara Klabin area, Nicecup has something of a retro air, its ample space replete with varnished wood, and red armchairs. The espressos (R$4.30) are made with their own brand coffee and team up well with a plate of mini churros (R$17,50) and hot chocolate sauce. Rua Pedro Nicole 1, Vila Mariana (5083 1012/nicecup.com. br). Open noon-11pm Mon-Thu; noonmidnight Fri-Sun. Prices cafezinho R$4.30; sandwiches R$19-$28.
Santo Amaro & Campo Belo café Café des Fleurs What Café des Fleurs lacks in space it makes up for in cosy ambience, with a Provençal décor. The espresso (R$3.90), made with Orfeu beans, as well as Nespresso options, go well with the homemade croque monsieur (R$23.90), followed by a mil-folhas – custard cream (R$13.50). Divine. Rua Gabriele D’annunzio 1291, Campo Belo (5093 2003). Open 11.30am-10pm TueFri; 9am-10pm Sat, Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.90; sandwiches R$8.90-$19.90 café Il Barista This café was one of the city’s gourmet café pioneers when it opened in 2003. It has since spawned a further three locations, all of which serve the in-house line of coffee blends. Their famous, full-bodied espresso competes with other drinks such as the freddo limone (R$13), an iced cappuccino with lime-flavoured ice-cream. Rua Verbo Divino 1385, Santo Amaro (5181 1671/ilbarista. com.br). Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$4; sandwiches R$8.80-$14. Other locations Alameda Lorena 1731, Jardim Paulista; Rua Mário Ferraz 414, Itaim Bibi; Shopping Morumbi (see Shopping listings).
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Shopping & Style
Markets and malls
Let there be light Designer William Kas crafts lamps out of PVC tubing, on sale at the Mercadinho Chic
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Shopping & Style
There’s no lack of luxury in São Paulo, found in high-end shopping malls and on the polished streets of Rua Oscar Freire, where immaculate matriarchs, lithe modeltypes and their groomed pooches pound the spotless pavements, prime real estate for the likes of Cartier and national designers that include Huis Clos and Maria Bonita. But sandwiched between Calvin Klein and Montblanc, you’ll find an affordable and altogether more personal retail experience, at the covered mini-market – the Mercadinho Chic.
Radiant Lamps from Luminárias
Framed by red velvet curtains, with a matching carpet running through the L-shaped space, the Mercadinho Chic offers a welcome variation on its upscale neighbours, giving a rotation of local independent designers coveted access to the neighbourhood’s big spenders. Up to 25 vendors sell everything from handmade hats to handbags, wallets, clothes, jewellery and cheap-and-cheerful trinkets every Wednesday through Sunday. ‘It’s a great opportunity for new brands to have a provisional store on Oscar Freire, where they can gauge how their products are received by the public,’ Jair Mercanzini, the market’s creative director, explains. ‘People have direct access to the designers – our customers love having that type of interaction.’ The majority of the stalls are indeed manned by the designers themselves, on hand to explain how something is made, or how best to take care of it. One of the regular vendors is William Kas, who creates ornate lamps out of PVC tubing, using a dental drill to etch out intricate designs, before coating them with a finish that gives the appearance of ceramic. Under the brand name Luminárias, Kas has been selling his lamps at the market for the past three years, priced from around R$100 for a table lamp up to R$750 for more elaborate floorstanding lamps. Taís Francelli is one of a number of contemporary jewellery designers whose pieces may not be cheap (necklaces start from R$190 and rings from R$280, with gold rings around R$1,800) but are all one-off, handcrafted creations. Her brand, Fina Oficina, inlays silver, gold and copper with Brazilian woods, moulded into chunky rings, and angular bracelets. Nicolás Lasnier creates organicshaped jewellery using a Japanese technique, mokume-gane, in which mixed-metal laminates are chiselled to reveal layers of colour, and then flattened to create a finish similar in appearance to grainy wood. One of the more competitively priced regulars is Babylon Urban Accessories, selling kitsch, colourful knick-knacks like
Red velvet The framed entrance to the Mercadinho Chic on Rua Oscar Freire
matchbox magnets (R$10$15), mobile phone covers (R$50-$70) and pocket mirrors (R$25), adorned with retro adverts, iconic album covers and the faces of rock stars. It’s the kind of trinket you might find on market stalls all over the world – think Camden Lock in London, or the Saturday SUPER!market in New York city – but which are a little more elusive in São Paulo. So next time you’re window shopping on the city’s designer avenue, step onto the red carpet and you won’t go home empty handed. Rua Oscar Freire 720, Jardim Paulista (3088 2348/ mercadinhochic.com.br). Open noon-8pm Wed-Sat; 11am-7pm Sun.
Get up close and personal with the independent designers at Rua Oscar Freire’s covered market, the unique Mercadinho Chic, says Elisa Ureña
Unique finds Fina Oficina bangle R$1,900 (left), Nicolás Lasnier ring R$250 (top right), Babylon cell cover R$50$70 (right).
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Malls & markets
Conjunto Nacional It’s said that every day, 30,000 people pass through this complex, one of Avenida Paulista’s most famous landmarks. This David Libeskind project from 1958 is innovative in its housing of businesses, flats and shops. Revamped after a fire broke out in 1978, the complex is home to the bookshop founded by Kurt and Eva Herz, Livraria Cultura, and to one of São Paulo’s best cinemas, Cine Bombril. The digital clock and thermometer that crown the building are a landmark and a daily reference for countless paulistanos. Avenida Paulista 2073, Consolação (3179 0000/ccn.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7am-10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat, Sun & holidays. Eldorado This mall’s previous incarnation was as a branch of a 1980s department store, and those powershoulder-pad days still haunt the place, at least in terms of the interior design. Eldorado’s two basement levels cater to every need, from dog grooming to cellphone repairs; or for a bit of light, chilly relief from consumption, conspicuous or otherwise, one of the only permanent ice-skating rinks in town is located in the second basement (R$35 for 30 minutes). Avenida Rebouças 3970, Jardim Paulistano (2197 7800/ shoppingeldorado.com.br). Open 10am10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary. Frei Caneca Located close to Avenida Paulista, this mall is at the heart of São Paulo and is famous not only for marketing culture, but also for generating it – amongst its numerous shops, nine cinemas and two theatres, it also hosts events and conferences, and has a professional drama school named after Wolf Maya, one of Brazil’s most prestigious soap opera directors. Its cinema is known for being eclectic, with national and international movies on the menu, whether commercial or cult. The food court tends to get a bit crowded at lunchtime, so you might find yourself sharing a table. Rua Frei Caneca 569, Consolação (3472 2000/ freicanecashopping.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary. Galeria Ouro Fino São Paulo’s wealthier alternative crowd heads to this gallery. There are tattoo studios, lingerie shops and hairdressers; and above all, there are small-scale designer shops selling creative or unusual outfits like US Army-inspired fatigues at the appropriately named US Army. Rua Augusta 2690, Jardim Paulista (3082 7860/galeriaourofino.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat. Galeria do Rock A haven for rockers
Colour me Casa Cor SP 2013
South America’s biggest design event, Casa Cor, which tours cities across the continent showcasing trends in architecture, decor and landscaping, is coming to São Paulo for its 27th edition, setting up camp at the Jockey Club from the end of May through most of July. For the first time this year, participating designers and architects were chosen by a board of curators, and were asked to stick to a residential theme. Look out for the work of architect Adriana Noya, whose eco-friendly space, pictured above, won her the ‘Most Sustainable’ project award at the event last year. 28 May-21 July, Avenida Lineu de Paula Machado 1173, Cidade Jardim (3819 7955/ casacor.com.br). Open noon-9.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-8pm Sun and public holidays. Admission R$40-$90.
and emos, affectionately known as ‘emoland’ by city satirists, the Galeria do Rock is a collection of 450 shops, 190 of them dedicated to the various facets of the music scene. CDs, vinyl, T-shirts, accessories, flags and posters – you name it, it’s here and it’s ready to rock. The bottom floor is dedicated solely to hip hop and ‘black music’, as Brazilians term it. The prices are lower than at equivalent speciality shops in other areas around the city; and on Saturdays, a battalion of teenage rockers invades. Rua 24 de Maio 62, Centro (3337 6277). Metrô 3, República. Open 10am6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. Ibirapuera One of the biggest shopping centres in town, Ibirapuera has more than 400 stores plus a gourmet food area. Charming small shops can also be found outside the mall, on avenidas Bem-Te-Vi and Gaivota, and ruas Pavão and Normandia. Avenida Ibirapuera 3103, Moema (5095 2300/
ibirapuera.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Iguatemi This, the city’s oldest shopping centre, still manages to hold its own in terms of sophistication and class, despite a rash of new high-class malls. Emporio Armani, Louis Vuitton and Ermenegildo Zegna are just some of the designer dreams on display, while Tiffany & Co has a street-front store on the ground floor. Check out the Brazilian high-fashion shops like Rosa Chá and Maria Bonita, or for slightly more affordable international style, head for Zara and Diesel. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulistano (3816 6116/iguatemisaopaulo.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, food court 11am-10pm; shops 2-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. NEW JK Iguatemi A two-month delay in the opening of the deluxe new shopping mall JK Iguatemi, the result of its having
failed to comply with traffic-calming measures, hasn’t dampened any of its opulence.With its slick, high-shine floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls. Besides some of the city’s top restaurants (Varanda, Tre Bicchieri) and predictable synonyms for luxury like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for real coups like the first Brazilian branches of Sephora, and of London’s Topshop and its brother brand, Topman. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (3152 6813/ jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am11pm Mon-Fri; 10am-11pm Sat; 11am10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary. Market Place This is a small, bijou mall that goes for quality, not quantity of stores. A middle-upper-class stamping ground with classy shops and beautiful décor, it also has an excellent food court with a huge variety of options. Go for baby back ribs at Outback, check out Mango’s Smoothies and Brigaderia, and don’t miss the shops Doc Dog and Calvin Klein. Avenida Doutor Chucri Zaidan 902, Brooklin (3048 700/marketplace. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Morumbi Morumbi is a favourite with young executives in the area for its first-floor gym (Companhia Athletica) as well as for its branch of the Fnac bookstore, which hosts music shows, art events and book releases. The food court has gourmet restaurants including Ganesh (Indian food) and Barbacoa (meat). Brazilian brands Animale, Gloria Coelho and Mara Mac are also worth a look. Avenida Roque Petroni Jr 1089, Brooklin (4003 4132/morumbishopping. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Pátio Higienópolis Located on a leafy boulevard in an upmarket neighbourhood, this mall is at first hard to distinguish from the mansions and 1950s residential buildings around it. It’s popular for its branch of the high-end pizza joint Bar des Arts, and brands like Calvin Klein underwear and L’Occitane. Avenida Higienópolis 618, Higienópolis (3823 2300/patiohigienopolis.com.br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Pátio Paulista The largest mall on Avenida Paulista is home to chains like Zara, Luigi Bertolli and Hering. The sleek interior appeals to Avenida Paulista businessmen, primarily for midday trips to the food court, while kids flock to its small three-screen movie theatre. Rua Treze de Maio 1947, Paraíso (3191 1100/shoppingpaulista. com.br). Metrô 2 & 1, Paraíso. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun
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& holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Villa-Lobos Close to Parque VillaLobos, this mall has a good selection of quality shops and restaurants. Check out Arezzo, arguably Brazil’s best chain store for gorgeous leather bags and shoes (prices rarely dip below R$100 for shoes and R$250 for bags); and Folic, another Brazilian chain with beautifully designed clothing and great bags. The Livraria Cultura on the top floor has a small auditorium. Avenida Das Nações Unidas 4777, Alto de Pinheiros (3024 4200/ shoppingvillalobos. com.br). Open 10am10pm Mon-Sat; 12-9pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.
Showcase Movimento Coletivo
Capitão Pinto Ferreira Street Market Of São Paulo’s many street markets, this one in Jardins, one of São Paulo´s wealthiest neighbourhoods, is particularly good. There’s a huge range of fresh fruit and vegetables, and top quality fish and seafood. Rua Capitão Pinto Ferreira, Jardim Paulista. Open 7.30am-12.30pm Fri. CEAGESP If you’re interested in buying plants, flowers or fruits, try the state market CEAGESP (also known as Ceasa), located in the west of town close to Parque Villa-Lobos. The wholesale market feeds the entire city, but offers a number of retail sales as well, with prices that take some beating. Tuesdays and Fridays are plant and flower days. Get there early to find good deals and fresh products. For fruit, Wednesdays (at night) and weekends (in the morning) are the peak times. Avenida Dr Gastão Vidigal 1946, Vila Leopoldina (3643 3700/ceagesp.gov.br). Open 5am-10am Tue; 4-10pm Wed; 5-10am Fri; 7amnoon Sat; 7am-1pm Sun. No credit cards. Feira da Água Branca Enough of toxic and transgenic products: this market is pro-nature and pro things as they should be found in nature. Everything is certified by the Brazilian Organic Agriculture Association. Parque da Água Branca, Água Branca (3875 2625). Open 7am-12pm Tue, Sat-Sun. Feira de Antiguidades e Arte do Bixiga This fair’s 300 stalls boast everything from antique clocks and furniture, clothes and records to vintage watches, brooches and sunglasses. There’s also a number of excellent food stalls, selling a plethora of delicacies, including homemade Italian cuisine inspired by Bixiga, São Paulo’s nearby version of Little Italy. Praça Dom Orione, Bela Vista (3262 2198). Open 8am-5pm Sun. Feira de Antiguidades da Paulista (MASP) Family silver, grandmother’s lace and antique photographs are just a few of the many things to be found at this beautiful market underneath the MASP. Although the prices can be quite hefty, only one-of-a-kind articles are purveyed here. Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista. Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Feira de Arte, Artesanato e Cultura da Liberdade (Feira da Liberdade) This weekly fair has been going since 1975, and remains one of SP’s best loved Sunday passeios. Its 240 stalls mostly compete for your
Power in numbers is something jewellery designer Patricia Centurion believes in, having transformed part of her studio into the Galeria Movimento Coletivo – a space in which designers can share ideas, learn from each other, and of course, showcase their jewellery. When it comes to innovative pieces, these bright, tactile necklaces (above, foreground) made of a unique, rubberlike plastic derived from PVC tubes, part of Marzio Fiorini’s Tutti Frutti collection, are definite standouts (R$330 each). Atelier Patricia Centurion, Jardins (3061 1548/ patriciacenturion.com.br). Visits by appointment only.
gallery where local artists sell paintings. stomach, with a vast range of Japanese Praça da República, República. Metrô 3, and Chinese fast-food treats on offer. República. Open 9am-5pm Sat, Sun. Jewellery, bonsai trees, aquarium fish and bamboo kitchen utensils are merely secondary. Melona ‘creamsicles’ – a curious and delicious South Korean ice-cream phenomenon – have become synonymous with Liberdade, and are available in most grocery stores and some restaurants. Praça da Liberdade, Liberdade (3208 5090). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 9am- 6pm Sat, Sun. Bom Retiro The shopping streets in Feira de Artes, Cultura e Lazer Bom Retiro (3361 9984/cdlbomretiro.org. da Praça Benedito Calixto br), especially along Rua José Paulino, Surrounded by gift and furniture shops, Rua Ribeiro de Lima and Rua Aimorés, this Saturday market sells bric-à-brac are incredibly popular with those looking as well as antique furniture – do stay for bargain-priced clothes. While the on your guard, as many goods are majority of the stores are wholesale, copies – vinyl, clothes and jewellery. some do sell retail. Try to avoid going It’s busiest in the afternoons, when on Fridays and Saturdays, when the live music, chorinho, kicks in and a pavements are so crowded buzzing gay scene spills onto the you’d frequently be pavements outside some of the better off walking square’s bars and cafés. Praça on top of the cars. Benedito Calixto, Pinheiros Take metrô 1, (pracabeneditocalixto.com. hop off at Luz br). Open 8am-7pm Sat. on e d i station, cross the Feira da República l gu Retiro l u f big square behind Running continuously our Bom eout. d a in im e the Pinacoteca do since 1956, this open-air To r opping ne to t ulo Estado building, centre has 600 stands and sh d onli sao-pa and you’ll have a wide selection of food, hea com/ arrived at Rua Ribeiro including Japanese yakisoba; de Lima. acarajé, the deep-fried Bahian Brás Ruas Oriente, Maria shrimp treat; and common or garden Marcolina and Silva Teles are at the hot dogs. There is also a large open-air
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centre of this, the country’s biggest clothing market, said to be worth around R$7 billion. Its 55 streets have turned what used to be an industrial area into a wholesale district, but retail sales are also possible, mostly on Saturdays, on Rua Oriente in particular. Come on a Tuesday and meet the sacoleiros (bag people) who come from all over the country to sell their wares, or check out Latin America’s biggest wholesale mall, Mega Polo Moda (Rua Barão de Ladário 566-670 (3311 2800/megapolomoda. com.br). It even has a hotel for those who come from outside the state – VIP customers stay for free, like casino high rollers. Largo da Concórdia, Brás (2694 0823/alobras.com.br). Metrô 3, Brás. Open 8am-5pm Mon-Fri; 8am-2pm Sat. Jardim Paulista (the area most commonly known as ‘Jardins’) National and international designer stores are concentrated here, especially along Rua Oscar Freire, Alameda Lorena, Rua Bela Cintra and Rua Haddock Lobo. Shops are open from Monday to Saturday, generally from 9am or 10am to 7pm or 8pm. Some may also be open on Sundays, especially on the busiest blocks of Rua Oscar Freire, between Rua Melo Alves and Rua Augusta. Liberdade Pretty much anything can be found for sale on Rua Galvão Bueno, located in the famous Japanese neighbourhood. From small shops on the street and also inside mini malls, pick up Brazilian stones, Asian ingredients, kitchen utensils and all kinds of gifts spread out over hundreds of outlets. One of the most famous shops is Ikesaki – a building in which you can find almost anything beauty related. The easiest way to get there is to take metrô line 1 and hop off at Liberdade station – if you take the exit for Praça da Liberdade, you’ll be at Rua Galvão Bueno. Pinheiros & Vila Madalena In Pinheiros, antiques stores rule around Rua Cardeal Arcoverde and Praça Benedito Calixto. Not far from there, in Vila Madalena, Rua Aspicuelta, Rua Girassol and Rua Harmonia are home to boutiques and used clothing stores, with the surrounding streets well worth an explore too. Rua da Consolação Located on the Jardins side of Avenida Paulista, this is the street for the city’s best vintage clothing stores as well as some excellent boutiques. If you cross over Avenida Paulista and head towards the centre of the city, you’ll find yourself passing the sparkling lights of São Paulo’s biggest concentration of lighting shops, before you hit Consolação cemetery. Rua 25 de Março The Brazilian government issued a remarkable statement in 2008: that around 90 per cent of the designer goods available on the street were counterfeit. Roughly 3,000 shops fill this outdoor market, concentrated in only eight city blocks, where everything from computer games to underwear and watches can be found. More than 400,000 people work and shop here every day. Don’t forget to check inside shopping centres like Mundo Oriental (Rua Barão de Duprat 323, (3229 8089/mundooriental.com.br) and Galeria Pagé (Rua Barão de Duprat 315, (3227 3582/galeriapage.com.br). Rua 25 de Março, Centro (3227 1473/ vitrine25demarco.com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 8am-6pm Mon-Fri; 8am-2pm Sat.
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Out & About This month in S達o Paulo
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Around Town Art Film Gay & Lesbian Music & Nightlife Football & World Cup 2014
Street life Delve into the downtown cultural marathon, the Virada Cultural
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jose cordeiro/sp turis
sylvia masini/press image
All night long
City lights Early birds, night owls and sleepless street dwellers alike can soak up waves of culture around the clock at the 24-hour Virada Cultural
Reinvigorating SP’s historic, faded city centre with a 24-hour explosion of culture in the open air, the mammoth Virada Cultural (‘cultural all-nighter’) festival returns for an eighth rendition of round-the-clock music, art, film, performance and general carousing. The festival reaches parts of Centro that, for the rest of the year, can be sadly desolate and dangerous – and attracts one of the broadest sweeps of paulistanos, from all walks of life, that you’re likely to see anywhere. Inspired by the all-night Nuits Blanches that began in Paris in 2001 before spreading to cities as diverse as Montreal and Bucharest, the Virada’s spectacles, events and performances have ranged from Mexican wrestling rings in the Vale do Anhangabaú, one of the epicentres of the festival, to stalls featuring upmarket street food (returning this year, to Avenida São Luiz, from 8am-8pm Sunday). The Virada Cultural is the big daddy of a wave of street-occupying social movements currently making their way onto SP’s streets for a varied menu of open-air events, meetings, protests and parties, run
by groups like BaixoCentro and Existe Amor em SP (see The Big Picture, page 8). And since it’s 100 per cent free, wholly funded by the Prefeitura (City Hall) – it’s also a welcome change from festivals overrun with branding, or the long queues that plague some of SP’s paying events and festivals. First-timers may feel the urge to sift through the daunting lineup and try and plot out a plan of attack; and it’s good to have at least some idea of who’s playing where. But Virada veterans know that the best-laid plans may well go awry during this absorbing romp. Even if you’re lucky enough to get behind the right stage-bound surge to catch a show by one of the major artists – this year, look out for the Bahian axé and samba-reggae queen Daniela Mercury, the dynamite duo of carioca diva Elza Soares with technobrega’s Gaby Amarantos, plus New York hip-hop duo Black Star, the international icon of funk, George Clinton and homegrown hip hop talent Racionais MCs bringing the Virada to a close – you may find the set drowned out by raucous crowds and spotty open-air acoustics. That is, if you manage to get close enough to notice: some past Viradas claim to have had as many as 3 million people in attendance. We’ve found a slightly more intuitive approach best: pick a
starting point close to an act you really don’t want to miss, then be ready to go with the flow. And with the marathon festival slated for a 6pm start, it’s best to dive in early, then stay as long as you can handle the bedlam: the convivial crowds have been known to steadily degrade from cheerful observers to occasionally drunk and disorderly, reaching a crescendo of messiness, including sporadic street crime, in the wee hours of the night. If it all sounds a bit rich for your tastes, rest assured that you can join in anyway, at any one of the many excellent indoor shows, parties and events taking place simultaneously across town; and for those looking to
make it a family outing, the brandnew Viradinha – ‘little Virada’ – has pint-sized fun in store for children. The Virada Cultural is from 6pm on Saturday 18 May until 6pm on Sunday 19 May, at 120 locations downtown, with dozens of parallel late-night events across the city. See viradacultural.org for the full schedule. Safety The event attracts huge crowds of people, not all of whom are there for the fun of it. Carry a bare minimum of cash and valuables and keep your wits about you, especially in the small hours. Transport Metrô lines and selected bus routes run nonstop for the duration of the event. FREE
sylvia masini/press image
SP’s Virada Cultural invades the city with a perfect storm of cultural fun, says Juan Cifrian
Follow the crowd Nightcrawlers rejoice in the Virada’s infectious vibe
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Museums & cultural centres delightful free music performances. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2705, Jardim Paulistano (3032 3727/mcb. sp.gov.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$4; R$2 reductions; free Sun. Museu do Futebol The fascinating Museu do Futebol uses modern technology to tell the story of Brazilian football. A large collection of video, photos and documents are on show, as are interactive games and events to stimulate young supporters into learning the facts behind their favourite sport. Praça Charles Miller 1, Pacaembu (3663 3848/museudofutebol. org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$2 reductions; free under-7s and Thu.
On the green Sustainability
Centro Cultural São Paulo
Centro da Cultura Judaica
This Torah-shaped building was designed by well-known architect Roberto Loeb and is set behind high gates. (Since the bombing of two Jewish institutions in Argentina in the 1990s, many South American Jewish cultural centres and synagogues have stepped up their security.) The impressive edifice has a bookstore and puts on film festivals and plays. Rua Oscar Freire 2500, Sumaré (3065 4333/culturajudaica.org.br). Metrô 2, Sumaré. Open noon-9pm Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun, public holidays. FREE
Fundação Ema Gordon Klabin
An eclectic mix of exhibits reflects collector Ema Klabin’s interests over four decades. Pre-Columbian, European, Asian and African art, decorative arts, and silverware adorn this beautiful house, itself a work of art. Guided tours take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays at 2pm, 3pm and 4pm, and on Saturdays at 10am, 11.30am and 2pm, and they can be booked by phone or by completing a form on the museum’s website. The museum also stages regular musical events. Rua Portugal 43, Jardim Europa (3062 5245/emaklabin.org.br). Open 2-4pm Tue, Thur-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat, public holidays. Admission R$10; R$5 reductions. Itaú Cultural Lodged in a typical Avenida Paulista glass building and run by one of the country’s largest banks, Banco Itaú, this institute holds temporary, contemporary art exhibitions. The initial goal of the centre was to set up a computer database on which it could store information on Brazilian arts and culture, and in 2000 a large collection of online works was made available to the public through the Enciclopédia Itaú Cultural. In 2002, the institute
Museu Histórico da Imigração Japonesa no Brasil This museum houses photos,
juliana knobel/PRESS IMAGE
São Paulo’s aerodynamic-looking Cultural Centre, perched atop a steep hill beside the Avenida 23 de Maio thoroughfare, is quite an impressive and clever architectural feat. Plenty of art exhibitions, film festivals, performances and workshops are held in the vast, multi-level space. A spiral staircase leads to a rooftop garden where you can sit and enjoy views of the city skyline. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Aclimação (3397 4002/centrocultural. sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm weekends, public holidays. FREE
Catavento Cultural Located in the beautiful Palácio das Industrias, Catavento is a participative cultural and educational museum. Well laid out, its mission is to provide children (and adults) with fun and interactive ways to learn, and it covers topics including space, the human body and Brazilian geography and wildlife. No tickets sold after 4pm. Palácio das Indústrias, Praça Cívica Ulisses Guimarães, Parque Dom Pedro II, Centro (cataventocultural. org.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; free-R$3 reductions.
May isn’t traditionally the greenest month in São Paulo – indeed, it’s autumn, with shards of yellow and gold starting to glint in the local vegetation’s evergreen depths. But ever since 2011, when São Paulo’s Virada Sustentável first made sustainability in all its myriad forms its mission, the festival of ecologically-minded events has become an excellent opportunity to check out some of the city’s most interesting green projects, in exhibitions, shows, debates and parties taking place over the course of three days. Also coming up is Parque do Ibirapuera’s annual Viva a Mata – an event run by the
NGO SOS Mata Atlântica, using workshops, games and debates to highlight the importance of protecting Brazil’s Atlantic forest. The native, intensely biodiverse forest once stretched the length of the country’s coastline and covered more than a million square kilometres. Today, just 11 per cent of the original woodland remains. The Virada Sustentável takes place from 6-9 June at locations all over the city – see viradasustentavel.com. Viva a Mata is on 24 and 26 May, at Parque do Ibirapuera, with a series of events held under the Marquise. 9am-6pm, see sosma. org.br for the full programme. FREE
moved into its current building, from which it supports and stimulates the development of digital media art and interdisciplinary productions. Avenida Paulista 149, Paraíso (2168 1700/itaucultural.org.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 9am-8pm Wed-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. FREE Matilha Cultural A sociallyminded cultural space in the Centro, Matilha Cultural organises events, courses, film screenings and art exhibitions, which are generally free. With the environment in mind, Matilha was built using certified and reclaimed wood and serves vegetarian food in its café. Rua Rego Freitas 542, (3256 2636/matilhacultural.com.br). Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; noon-10pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Museu Afro Brasil The Afro-Brazil museum is, quite simply, one of the jewels in the crown of
Parque do Ibirapuera. Due to its late abolition, slavery is still an open wound in Brazil’s history; and a closer look at the impressive collection of paintings, photographs and clothing in this museum emphasises the impact African culture has had, and still has, on modern Brazil. Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral (no number), Parque do Ibirapuera (4004 5006/museuafrobrasil. org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. FREE
Museu da Casa Brasileira
Previously owned by the Prado family, powerful local coffee barons, this beautifully preserved mansion houses a museum focused on interior design. The collection includes furniture from the 17th to the 21st centuries, but the museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. There’s a great restaurant here too – Quinta do Museu – and, on Sunday mornings, the terrace and garden are the site of
documents and archives that span the 100-year history of Japanese immigration to Brazil. Rua São Joaquim 381, Liberdade (3208 1755/bunkyo.org. br). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 1.305.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$5; reductions free-$2.50.
Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) A major makeover in 2008
revitalised this stark, concrete building, which is home to a collection of 30,000 photos, films and records. There are recorded statements by modernist artist Tarsila do Amaral and Tom Jobim (the father of bossa nova). It also stages frequent, innovative temporary exhibitions and retrospectives. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/mis-sp.org.br). Open noon10pm Tue-Sat; 11am-9pm Sun, public holidays. Admission R$4; free-R$2 reductions; free Sun.
Museu da Língua Portuguesa The Portuguese language is a meeting point for distant countries and diverse cultures, and the imposing totems on this museum’s first floor make for a brilliant visual introduction to the encounter that gave birth to Brazil’s language. The exhibits are visually striking, though note that there are no signs in English. Praça da Luz, Centro (3326 0775/museudalinguaportuguesa. org.br). Metrô 1, Luz. Open TueSun 10am-6pm; Admission R$4; reductions free; free Sat. PORTUGUESE
Museu Paulista da USP (Museu do Ipiranga) Up
on a hill overlooking Parque da Independência, the Museu do Ipiranga is set inside a gorgeous Renaissancestyle building dating from 1895. Inside, it traces the history of Brazil, from the early settlers to the 1950s. The museum and the gardens offer great views of the city, and the Parque da Independência (free entry) is a great place to kick off your shoes and lounge in the shade. Parque da Independência, Ipiranga (2065 8000/mp.usp.br). Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$3 reductions; free under-6s, over-60s, first Sun of the month. Includes admission to the nearby (and disappointing), Museu de Zoologia.
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Art & Museums Interview: Charles Esche
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The British curator, recently appointed to the 2014 São Paulo Bienal, talks to Claire Rigby
You’ve said that the interview process to become curator of the 31st Bienal was thorough and ‘provocative’. What did you mean by that? They asked good questions. They were obviously thinking through the question of what they thought I could offer the Bienal, and whether that was right for them, and it made me think in turn, ‘Do I want to do this?’ It provoked a change in the way I felt – before the interview, I wouldn’t have felt as committed to being in São Paulo as I now do. I came to understand that there’s something quite precious about the São Paulo Bienal. The interview process made its history and its importance, which I knew about in the abstract, suddenly feel very tangible. It made me think hard about it: that if I do this, then I have to do it in a way I feel is ethically right, and I hope I can do that. What do you mean when you say ‘ethically right’? Well, that I’ll do what I say I will, for one thing. But also, the Bienal has had a very particular history – problems with budgets and things like that, and it’s clear that they want to make changes. They have been doing, over the last three or four years, and they want to continue. I’ve always tried to bring ethics to curating, whether that’s relationships with the market, how you pay for and take care of artists, or how you relate to the local environment in which you are working. All those
Sofia Colucci/press image
In April, the Fundação Bienal (Bienal Foundation) announced the British curator Charles Esche as the man in charge of the next São Paulo Art Bienal, set to begin in September 2014. Director of the Van Abbemuseum in Eindhoven, Holland, Esche was selected from a longlist of 14 names. He speaks to Time Out São Paulo about being picked for the job, his way of working, and the art of portraying ‘things that don’t exist’.
Man with a plan Esche, pictured inside the Bienal building, has just under 18 months to put the show together
things were already playing in my mind, so when they were presented to me at the interview, I really appreciated it. I suppose I was pleasantly surprised. You come to the Bienal as an outsider in terms of the Brazilian art world, yet you’ve curated various biennales
commissioning system works – and see whether it needs to be done differently. It may be that the systems in Brazil or in the Bienal are better than mine, but they need to be tested again. It’s one of my responsibilities, I suppose, to be bold enough to question those things. And on the other hand, I have to be extremely attentive – to look at Brazil and to try
‘Economics is complete voodoo, with virtually no relationship to the real outcomes. Historically, we can prove it’ previously – Gwangju (South Korea) 2002, Istanbul 2005, Riwaq (Palestine) 2009 and 2007, and Ljubljana 2010. How are you approaching the challenge of São Paulo? Well, I have the responsibility to use the knowledge I have from outside and the experience I’ve already built up, and bring that into the Bienal. I need to question traditions and ways of working – the way the building works, the way the address to the public works, the way the
and find a position about where it is at the moment, artistically, but also socially and even politically. To try to figure that out for myself is going to be the big challenge. How are you going to do that? I lean on artists, always, to try to help me work that out. And there are my collaborators, including Brazilian collaborators in the team. There’s reading, and re-reading – and there’s also intuition. It’s a balance – standing for something, but also
being open. It’s something I’m really looking forward to: I’ve done this in different places – in Palestine, Korea – so I feel I know the processes I need to go through, and the processes I need to set in motion. I need to go through them again in order to know what’s particular in Sao Paulo. Your preliminary concept for the Bienal is ‘how to talk about things that don’t exist’. What do you mean by that? Art talks about life – that’s what it always talks about, hopefully. But it’s also about how the world is surrounded by forces that we can’t account for – yet. Economics is a great example: it’s complete voodoo, with virtually no relationship to the real outcomes. We know this – historically, we can prove this. There are predictions and some of them are right, but many times they are more wrong than you and I would be by just picking a number out of a hat. But still we invest in that, because we need to have some sense that we know what’s going on. And equally we need to invest in art – in understandings of art even if we can’t prove their relationship with this thing called reality, this thing
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Is a Bienal about bringing art to a place, or about letting art radiate from a place? To what extent does it have to reflect Brazil’s or São Paulo’s reality? Well, if you ask me in the abstract, I’d say it’s not an obligatory aspect – the Venice Biennale doesn’t reflect Venice very much. But it’s such a tremendous opportunity to reflect on this metropolis that is São Paulo. Why not grasp it? I think if you don’t reflect on the city, then what you do is reflect on art as a separate category of activity from everything else in the world, and I’m not really interested in keeping that sort of argument alive. I want art to be related to life, to the decisions we make about our everyday existence, and in order to do that, you have to relate it to the place where you are. That feels important to me, but I know that there are other curators who would totally disagree.
Leo Eloy/Fundação Bienal de São Paulo
The 31st Bienal de Arte de São Paulo will take place from September to December 2014.
Shadow-play Last year’s Bienal
How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s major institutions (art museums and publicly and privately owned collections), then commercial galleries, the latter ordered by area. Recommended galleries are marked with a . Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check.
Art & Museums
You’ve said you’re suspicious of endless reinvention around the Bienal – that it should be possible to just do a Bienal that’s about good art. There’s this idea of reinvention for the sake of reinvention, in the sense of we have to produce something new. But that doesn’t feel part of the zeitgeist. I think people are a bit tired of the new. New has proved to not be very new at all. I don’t think we need to once again announce that we’re going to reinvent the idea of the Bienal. We need to make a really good Bienal. We need to make an event, an exhibition, an experience that touches people.
Art listings On lines Na Natureza …
How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.
Major institutions Espaço Cultural BM&F BOVESPA Combine a visit to one of the temporary exhibitions at the Espaço Cultural, housed inside the entrance hall to São Paulo’s stock exchange, with a guided tour of the financial institution – ask at the reception desk. Praça Antonio Prado 48, Centro (2565 6826). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm. FREE Instituto Tomie Ohtake Housed in an imposing dark glass skyscraper intertwined with steel waves of purple and maroon, and named after the iconic Japanese-Brazilian artist, the Instituto dominates the Pinheiros skyline. It was designed by Tomie Ohtake’s son, Ruy Ohtake – also the designer of the unique, half-moon-shaped Hotel Unique – and isn’t afraid to shock with challenging exhibitions. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 201, Pinheiros (2245 1900/ institutotomieohtake.org.br). Open 11am-8pm Tue-Sun. Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC) The MAC contains over 10,000 works by the likes of Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani, Tarsila do Amaral, Portinari and Di Cavalcanti on its three sites, the newest of which is located in a huge Niemeyer building across the road from Parque do Ibirapuera. The other branches are one on the University of São Paulo campus in Cidade Universitária, and a smaller space inside the Bienal building, also in Ibirapuera. Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral 1301, Ibirapuera (5573 9932/mac.usp.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Other locations Pavilhão Ciccillo Matarazzo, 3rd floor, Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5573 9932/mac.usp.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Cidade Universitária, Rua da Praça do Relógio 160 (3091 3039/mac.usp.br). Open 10am-4pm Sat, Sun, public holidays. Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) Founded in 1948 and based on New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), the MAM contains over 5,000 works by acclaimed Brazilian artists of the likes of Regina Silveira, Cildo Meireles and Leonilson. Its
called life. It’s a constant that we can never account for. I want to balance the focus on those magic figures and magic numbers with a focus on other kinds of magic.
Focusing on the power of a simple line – the very basis of art – the group exhibition, ‘Na Natureza Não Há Linha Nem Cor’ (‘In Nature there is neither line nor colour’) brings together the works of nine artists at Central Galeria. Ana Teixera’s strange, delicate watercolours (see above) mix with the calligraphy-like woodprints of Hélio Fervenza, and the most delicate of all the lines, Flávia Ribeiro’s fine copper wires stitched onto organza. At Central Galeria (see listings) until 15 June. mission is to showcase contemporary and modern Brazilian art, and it also has a 6,000-square-metre sculpture garden. Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5085 1300/mam.org.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$5.50; free reductions. Free to all Sun. Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) São Paulo’s flagship museum is an imposing red concrete-and-glass box suspended on four concrete columns, which dominates Avenida Paulista. Inside, it’s the Greatest Hits of World Art, Vols. 1-10. There’s a Picasso, a Gainsborough, a Hieronymus Bosch and a Goya, as well as big Brazilian names like Cândido Portinari and Anita Malfatti. In short, it’s the best collection of European and Brazilian art in South America – even if only around 500 of the museum’s 7,000 works are on show at any given time. Avenida Paulista 1578 (3251 5644/masp.
art.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-6pm Tue, Wed; 10am-8pm Thu; 10am-6pm Fri-Sun (ticket office open until half an hour before closing). Admission R$15; R$7 reductions. Free to all Tue. Pinacoteca do Estado São Paulo’s oldest, most traditional major institution was designed in 1897 by Ramos de Azevedo, and originally housed São Paulo’s first art school. Many of the most important Brazilian Modernists are on display here, Cândido Portinari, Anita Malfatti and Di Cavalcanti included. Praça da Luz, Luz (3324 1000/ pinacoteca.org.br) Metrô 1, Luz. Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; students R$3. Free to all Sat. No credit cards. Other location Estação Pinacoteca, Largo General Osório 66, Centro (3335 4990). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission Included in Pinacoteca admission price.
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Galleries Consolação Galeria Vermelho One of the most consistently interesting galleries in São Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho has a well earned reputation for championing emerging artists, investing considerable care and effort into their careers. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3138 1520/ galeriavermelho.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.
Art & Museums
Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Casa Triângulo This big, stylish white gallery is strong on Brazilian and international names, unafraid to shock, and doesn’t shy from variety. Founded in 1988, the gallery continues to play an essential part in championing emerging artists, Brazilian and otherwise, and takes part in a number of important international art fairs. Rua Paes de Araújo 77, Itaim Bibi (3167 5621/ casatriangulo.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.
Jardins Emma Thomas Following two years sharing a space with Barra Funda’s Baró Galeria, this hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is all grown up, and settling into a new, purpose-built gallery in Jardins. Inside, a whitecube exhibition space leads up to a large office space; and right on top, a terrace, looking over the treetops of leafy Jardins. Rua Estados Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (3666 6489/ emmathomas.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. Zipper Galeria The emphasis at this savvy gallery, owned by the experienced galerista Fabio Cimino, is on the new and the pop. With excellent curation and two spaces, upstairs and down, there’s always something on that’s worth seeing here. Rua Estados Unidos 1494, Jardim Paulista (4306 4306/zippergaleria.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.
Pinheiros Choque Cultural This unpretentious, influential, cutting-edge gallery is dedicated to Brazilian urban art from graffiti artists to skateboard designers and printmakers. In early 2013, it closed its much loved original gallery space at Rua João Moura, concentrating its activities at what was formerly its second location. Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque 250, Vila Madalena (3061 2365/choquecultural. com.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 1-6pm Sat. Galeria Logo In a versatile white space with a basement area that means two shows can run concurrently, Galeria Logo is a favourite with the skate/ graffiti/meeja crowd, and got off to a flying start when it opened in 2011 with
a series of ambitious, large-scale shows. We particularly like Walter Nomura’s complex, colourful, messy paintings and Flávio Samelo’s striking photographs. Rua Artur de Azevedo 401, Pinheiros (3062 2381/galerialogo.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat.
Santa Cecília Baró Galeria Baró is an important player in SP and beyond, and it does things on a grand scale, with a constantly changing programme and a hallmark dash of daring. The stylish Spanish owner, Maria Baró, has developed particularly good connections with artists from other Latin American countries. Her gallery occupies a huge industrial space in the rising art district of Barra Funda, where it has the floor space for large installations. Rua Barra Funda 216, Barra Funda (3666 6489/ barogaleria.com). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.
Vila Madalena Central Galeria With a mission to discover some of the talent emerging from São Paulo’s art schools, this gallery represents a varied line of young artists. Look out for the unique, compelling self-portraits by Nino Cais – one of the hits at the 2012 São Paulo Bienal. Rua Mourato Coelho 751, Vila Madalena (2645 4480/ centralgaleriadearte.com). Open 10am7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Eduardo Fernandes Don’t be intimidated by the dark, high wall that faces the street in front of this gallery. Ring the bell, and you’ll be greeted by smiling staff and led through a bamboo-lined courtyard to the modern, white-walled gallery space out back. Wander between two exhibition rooms and the gallery’s permanent collection, contemplating contemporary works by impressive international names. The open office invites interactions between visitors and gallery staff. Rua Harmonia 145, Vila Madalena (3032 6380/ galeriaeduardohfernandes.com). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards.
Vila Mariana White Cube São Paulo It’s one of the first major international galleries to arrive in São Paulo – but we’re wagering it won’t be the last. Opened in December 2012, London’s White Cube gallery kicked off with a solo show by one of its Brit Art stars, Tracey Emin. It also represents Antony Gormley, love-him-or-hate-him art bad boy Damien Hirst, and a huge list of major international talent, some of whom are already jockeying for a show in SP. As well as bringing artists from its current roster to show in SP, the gallery will be showing Brazilian artists at its new, immense London space in Bermondsey, and possibly even in its Hong Kong branch. Rua Agostinho Rodrigues Filho 550, Vila Mariana (whitecube.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat.
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Interview: Terence Davies
family, it really was something that was never talked about. And I don’t even want to think about going through that again. What’s happened, though, is that the things that affected me as a child have come out in the films.
Smile and wave Terence Davies remakes ‘The Deep Blue Sea’ and waves goodbye to the original 1955 version
The British filmmaker dives into his latest movie, The Deep Blue Sea with A.A. Dowd Based on a 1952 play by Terence Rattigan, The Deep Blue Sea tells the story of a distraught woman in 1950s England who leaves her wealthy, distant husband, for a dashing but insensitive Royal Air Force pilot. The film’s director Terence Davies talks to A.A. Dowd about his first narrative feature film since The House of Mirth (2000). How did you land on The Deep Blue Sea? The Rattigan Trust approached me. They said, ‘Would you do one of the plays for his [Terence Rattigan’s] centenary?’ At first, I wasn’t convinced. The Deep Blue Sea is a rather unremarkable story. The whole of the first act is exposition, which I simply find dull. But I thought if I could do it from Hester’s point of view, then all the exposition could go.
Have you seen the original 1955 version? It’s awful! All [director Anatole Litvak] has done, in fact, is photograph the play. What’s the point? And it’s got a dreadful performance by Vivien Leigh. How did you pick Rachel Weisz for Hester? I don’t watch much television, but one particular night – it was a Sunday night – there was this film on [Swept from the Sea]. And this girl came on. This luminous face, these wonderful eyes. And I thought, God, isn’t she fabulous? I rang my manager and I said, ‘Have you heard of someone called Rachel Weisz?’ He said, ‘You’re the only one who hasn’t.’ And Tom Hiddleston? With [the character of] Freddie, I had to see a lot of people. And that was pretty dispiriting. Young actors in England have got this idea now – God knows where they’ve got it – that you change the lines to suit you. Hang on, that’s not the way it works. You’re supposed to be finding the
character. And I really did despair. And then Tom came in. We read the scenes together and we found Freddie. It was as simple as that. There’s a recurring motif in your films – both in this new one and in your autobiographical features – of characters finding solidarity in group sing-alongs. Was this a common pastime in the ’50s? It certainly was. Working-class people went to the pub on the weekend. And you sang! You sang all the songs that you loved. It was usually the Great American Songbook, poetry for ordinary people. And that was absolutely common. And they didn’t think, ‘Oh, I’ve got a voice, I’ve got to be famous.’ They just enjoyed singing. Not now, that’s gone. Will you ever make another autobiographical film? No, I’ve done my life in Liverpool. I was a very devout Catholic. I really did pray until my knees bled, because I wanted to be cured of being gay. I’ve never been happy with it. In a working-class
In your essay-doc Of Time and the City (2008), you claimed to hate the Beatles. Were you kidding? No! One of my sisters took me to see Jailhouse Rock with Elvis. I was only 11 and cringed all the way through it. And the Beatles came out and they were even worse, even more banal! Devoid of any discernible talent, as far as I’m concerned. I hated them then, and I still hate them. I hate them with a passion! The Deep Blue Sea (Amor Profundo) is released on 10 May.
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All your films are period pieces. Will we ever see a Terence Davies movie set in contemporary Britain? The England I grew up in has vanished. Even after the war – I was born in ’45 – people behaved properly. And I miss that. It’s gone from England. We’re the most uncivilised country in Europe. I love my country very much, but I’m its severest critic. And it’s imploded. The reason we’re obsessed with the Second World War is that was the last time we were important.
Luminous Rachel Weisz as Hester
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Film of the month The Deep Blue Sea
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Dir. Terence Davies, USA and UK, 2011. Rachel Weisz, Tom Hiddleston, Simon Russell Beale. 98 mins.
In the open Freddie (Hiddleston) and Hester (Weisz) embark on an affair
Lushly nostalgic and heartbreaking, the films of British director Terence Davies are a singular journey into solitude – his latest, from Terence Rattigan’s 1952 play, arrives under an especially apt title. After only six fiction features, Davies has staked out a subterranean psychology: forwardly gay, openly torn and just short of miserable. The Deep Blue Sea is as good an introduction as one could have. Set during the transitional era Davies prefers – post-WWII London – the story follows a trio of disconnecting lovers: suicidal Hester (Weisz) is drifting from her remote husband, a judge (Beale). Meanwhile, Royal Air Force pilot Freddie
(Hiddleston) grabs Hester’s affection, then rejects it. It’s the stuff of melodrama, heightened by Davies’s pitchperfect use of pop songs, like a sad ‘You Belong to Me,’ slurred by a misty crowd in a bar. The imagery, courtesy of German cinematographer Florian Hoffmeister, is a touch too dark and redundant – watch a Davies effort like The Long Day Closes (1992) and you’ll appreciate his way with a shaft of mote-laden sunlight. But the filmmaker is fully on top of his game with his performances, not only from the Oscar-winning Weisz but from the revelatory Hiddleston, who invests Freddie with an emotional openness that improves on the source material. Happiness is not in the cards; exquisite separation, however, can be gripping in itself. Joshua Rothkopf The Deep Blue Sea (Amor Profundo) is released on 10 May.
Reviews Side Effects
The latest film – maybe the last; more on that later – from Steven Soderbergh is a slippery one. It’s a pacy, sleight-of-hand thriller that satisfies as unabashed, borderline schlocky genre fun. It’s also full of sly digs at consumerism and the love of money, and it presents itself as the beguiling cinematic swansong of perhaps the most intriguing Hollywood auteur of his generation. Side Effects stars Channing Tatum as Martin, a former Wall Street hotshot about to leave jail. There’s Rooney Mara as his nervy wife Emily, Jude Law as Jonathan, a shrink who treats her after she drives her car into a wall, and Catherine Zeta-Jones as her last psychiatrist, Victoria, who suggests Jonathan try her on an new anti-depressant. Set in a coolly observed New York of fractured grids and watching eyes, a world of careerism, materialism and one-upmanship, the
film establishes Martin and Emily’s marriage, and that of Jonathan and his wife (Vinessa Shaw), as rocky from the start. A bloody crisis jolts us into a pinball machine of legal proceedings, Big Pharma shenanigans and media feeding frenzies. Then a succession of twists, bluffs and rug-pullings takes us into pure cat-and-mouse territory. As a thriller in the Hitchcock mould, Side Effects is great fun: its characters are well acted without being entirely likeable, which makes their jeopardy all the more enjoyable while putting us at a clinical remove. The script barrels along at enough of a lick for us to forgive some clunky elements – dodgy dialogue, an over-explained climax. And Soderbergh’s delight in technique is obvious, from masterfully attentive editing to a tendency to look skywards. Given Soderbergh’s announcement of his retirement from filmmaking, it’s tempting to look at this as a collection of facets of his diverse career. There’s the queasy interpersonal tension with
which he made his name (Sex, Lies, and Videotape); the interest in mental illness that has marked his career (Kafka, Schizopolis, The Informant!); the delight in slippery genre storytelling (Out of Sight, Ocean’s Eleven); a concern for the impact of big forces on individuals’ lives (Erin Brockovich, Traffic,
Contagion); and a willingness to flit between these things with speed. But this is also a movie that tells us not to count someone out too soon: rumours of his withdrawal might yet prove exaggerated. Ben Walters Side Effects (Terapia de Risco) is released on 17 May.
Dir. Steven Soderbergh, USA, 2013. Rooney Mara, Channing Tatum, Jude Law. 106 mins.
Set of shrinks Law and Zeta-Jones as psychiatrists in ‘Side Effects’
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The Company You Keep
The Company You Keep (Sem Proteção) is released on 24 May.
Rob on the run Robert Redford (left) plays an aging activist on the lam
Run, Robert, run: the talented Mr. Redford has made an art form out of going on the lam, whether it’s from frontier superposses (Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid), Southern lawmen (The Chase), corporate overlords (The Electric Horseman) or intelligence-agency spooks (Three Days of the Condor). That last film casts a particularly large shadow, tone-wise, over the actor-director’s latest project, in which Redford plays a do-gooder lawyer standing up for truth, justice and the American way. Then a wanted ’60s radical (Susan Sarandon) turns herself in after decades of living underground, and an intrepid reporter (Shia LaBeouf) uncovers a connection between the prisoner, a bank robbery and the legal eagle. Soon, our towheaded star is breaking out fake-name passports, cleverly slipping past the Feds and surfing from one safe house to the next.
Redford’s devotion to oldschool liberalism and ’70s socially informed dramas has been a directorial-career constant, and at its best, The Company You Keep feels like a movie you’d have seen in 1975 – one informed by political righteousness and made for adults. Exploring the legacy of America’s up-against-the-wall revolutionary flirtations means more than merely name-dropping the SDS and Kent State, however. Screenwriter Lem Dobbs and the director have an annoying penchant for reducing a who’s who of AARPage actors into mouthpieces for creaky, cranky leftist rants. Even LaBeouf’s shoe-leather wunderkind starts to seem less like a character and more like an opportunity for Redford to rail against the sorry state of the fourth estate. That legit concern, like much of the film, might have been more effective had it not been filtered through so much graybeard griping. David Fear
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Dir. Robert Redford, USA, 2012. Robert Redford, Nick Nolte, Stanley Tucci. 125 mins.
Before Midnight Dir. Richard Linklater, USA, 2013. Ethan Hawke, Julie Delpy, Seamus Davey-Fitzpatrick. 108 min.
Here we are again, after nine years have passed offscreen and on, with Hawke’s sardonic American writer and Delpy’s feisty French philanthropist. Now in their forties, the two are not only together but the proud parents of twin daughters. ‘How long has it been since we just walked around and bullshitted?’ Jesse asks Céline early in the film, as they embark on another of their chatty, scenic odysseys. For audiences, the answer is much too long; as with
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Before Midnight is Richard Linklater’s trilogy-capping return to the heady pleasures of a feature-length conversation. Before Sunset ended on such a perfect note – a heart-stopping ellipsis, a magical moment at the crossroads – that checking back in with Jesse (Ethan
Hawke) and Céline (Julie Delpy) seemed to me like a mistake waiting to happen. But then, I thought the same thing when I heard that Linklater was making a sequel to his original 1995 Before Sunrise, which had a pretty wonderful ending, too. What’s clear now, if it wasn’t before, is that the director and his stars/ cowriters have been labouring on a grand, beautiful experiment: the life of a romance onscreen, decade by decade, in all its gory detail.
Another before The chatty banter between Céline (Delpy) and Jesse (Hawke) is revisited in ‘Before Midnight’
estranged kindred spirits, we don’t realise how much we’ve missed these loquacious lovers until we’re in their company again. First in a car – shades of Kiarostami – then among friends, and finally on the streets of Greece, the two fall back into the sparkling, lightly philosophical banter that’s come to define this wonderfully wordy franchise. Nobody writes dialogue – funny, thoughtful and organic – like the trio Linklater, Hawke and Delpy. Yet those expecting sweet nothings and star-lit pillow talk should prepare for the way that Jesse and Céline’s union, like most real ones, has shifted and evolved over the years. If Sunrise was about the euphoria of falling in love and Sunset was about the bittersweet passion of reuniting, Midnight is about the hard, sometimes exasperating work of keeping a relationship together. (Without revealing how things play out, let’s say that we’ve never seen these two go at each other the way they do here.) I’m done secondguessing the continuation of the story. At this point, I want one of these films every nine years for the rest of my life. A.A. Dowd Before Midnight (Antes da Meia-Noite) is released on 7 June.
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How to use the listings This section lists the major downtown cinemas, including both mainstream movie theatres and our pick of the city’s arthouse and indie cinemas, and other film venues. Listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.
Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil Built in 1901 and restored in 1927 as the first Banco do Brasil in São Paulo, this imposing former bank in the middle of the old city is now a cultural centre, with a café, art exhibitions, theatre and educational programmes often including engrossing retrospectives of internationally renowned directors. Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro (3113 3651/bb.com.br/cultura). Metrô 1 or 3, Sé or São Bento. 1 screen, 70 seats. Tickets R$4; R$2 reductions. Cine Olido This wonderful little cinema forms part of a cultural complex, along with a theatre, dance space and photo gallery, that’s housed in a classic downtown building. Cine Olido has eclectic year-round programming, often hosting film festivals related to topical national and international cultural events. Avenida São João 473, Centro (3397 0171/galeriaolido.sp.gov.br). Metrô 3, República. 1 screen, 236 seats. Tickets R$1; R$0.50 reductions. No credit cards. Playarte Marabá Open from 1944 to 2007, this theatre reopened its doors in 2009. It was once known as the only survivor of the ‘cinelândia’ – downtown area of São Paulo that housed many theatres in the mid 20th century. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Ipiranga 757, Centro (5053 6881/playartepictures.com. br). Metrô 3, República. 5 screens, 122430 seats. Tickets R$4.50-$19.
Consolação & Higienópolis Cinemark Pátio Higienópolis This cinema, inside the Shopping Pátio Higienópolis mall, has a good projection system with seats at a steep enough gradient that you’ll always get a good view, even when the cinema is packed. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Higienópolis 646, Higienópolis (3823 2875/cinemark.com.br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. 6 screens, 98-264 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; R$8-$11 reductions. 3D film tickets R$26-$28; R$3-$4 reductions. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Augusta This cinema, which until recently was known as Espaço Unibanco, is divided into two spaces on either side of Rua Augusta. If you arrive before the movie showtime, feel free to visit the small bookstore located on the odd numbered
side of the street, which holds many cultural works and has a good café. Rua Augusta 1470 and 1475, Consolação (3288 6780/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 5 screens, 51-263 seats. Tickets R$14-$22; R$7-$11 reductions; R$10-$20. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Frei Caneca Despite being located in a shopping centre, this cinema has a welcoming ambience. Mainstream movies and arthouse titles screen daily. Rua Frei Caneca 569, 3rd floor, Frei Caneca Shopping, Consolação (3472 2365/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 9 screens, 103-268 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; 3D film tickets R$26-$28.
Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Cinemark Villa Lobos This theatre is designed like other Cinemark locations, with some screens available for 3D films. Priority is given to blockbusters though cult films are sometimes shown on the smaller screens. Avenida das Nações Unidas 4777, Villa Lobos Shopping, Lapa (3024 3851/cinemark.com.br). 7 screens, 105-271 seats. Tickets R$18$24; R$9-$12 reductions; 3D films R$23-$28. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Pompéia This cinema is known for having been the first to show movies in 3D Imax in Brazil, and still has the city’s largest screen. Screen 10 is VIP with bigger reclineable chairs. Rua Turiassu 2100, 3rd floor, Bourbon Pompéia Shopping (3673 3949/www.itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda. 11 screens, 60-327 seats. Tickets R$16-$24; R$8$12 reductions. IMAX tickets R$25-$37;
R$12.50-$18.50 reductions. 3D films R$26-$28; R$13-$14 reductions.
Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Cine-Clube Socioambiental Crisantempo Every Thursday at 8pm, this theatre/cinema combo shows national and international documentaries about social and environmental issues. It’s located in a two-storey house, which includes a dance studio, in the lively neighbourhood of Vila Madalena. Rua Fidalga 521, Vila Madalena (3814 2850/ cineclubesocioambiental.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Madalena. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE CINUSP Paulo Emílio A small cinema at the heart of the enormous University of SP campus, CINUSP shows free films to an audience of movie buffs. Rua do Anfiteatro 181, Colméia Favo 4, Cidade Universitária, Butantã (3091 3540/usp. br/cinusp). 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE
Jardins Playarte Bristol Located on the top floors of Shopping Center 3, Playarte Bristol has large screening rooms and is a good option for waiting for traffic on Avenida Paulista to let up. Screens mainstream films. Shopping Center 3, Avenida Paulista 2064, Consolação (3289 0509/playartepictures.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 7 screens, 115444 seats. Tickets R$19-$23; R$9,50$11.50 reductions. Cine Livraria Cultura This cinema may have just a few screens, but the ample space and interesting programming, packed with independent films, more than compensates. It also
has the advantage of location – next door to the excellent bookshop Livraria Cultura, on the bustling corner of Avenida Paulista and Rua Augusta. Avenida Paulista 2073, Conjunto Nacional, Consolação (3285 3696/ cinelivrariacultura.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 2 screens, 100-300 seats. Tickets R$14-$20; R$7-$10 reductions. Cinemark Iguatemi Has the classic Cinemark layout including comfortable armchairs and good quality image and sound projection. It’s on the top floor of Shopping Iguatemi and has standard and 3D sceenings of mostly mainstream films. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Iguatemi Shopping, Jardim Paulistano (3815 8713/cinemark.com. br). 6 screens, 129-266 seats. Tickets R$6-$28; R$3-$14 reductions; 3D films R$28-$31; R$14-$15,50 reductions. Reserva Cultural This pleasant spot has a small café and a restaurant-bar with large windows through which you can watch the comings and goings along the city’s main avenue. Avenida Paulista 900, Bela Vista (3287 3529/ reservacultural.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro or Trianon-Masp. 4 screens, 110-190 seats. Tickets R$17-$24; R$8.50-$12 reductions.
Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Kinoplex Vila Olímpia Considered one of the best in town, this cinema, inside Shopping Vila Olímpia, screens mainstream movies and is spotlessly clean, with comfortable screening rooms and friendly staff. Rua Olimpíadas 360, Vila Olímpia (3131 2006/kinoplex.com. br). 7 screens, 98-189 seats. Tickets R$22-$53; R$11-$26.50 reductions.
Film festivals Football and rock ’n’ roll Two festivals bring films on football and music to the big screen, says Marina Monzillo With all the talk of football about, we’re starting to really believe it: the World Cup is just a year away. And if you haven’t had your fill of the sport, you’ll probably look forward to the Cinefoot – Festival de Cinema de Futebol which hits theatres this June. Football is the running theme for all 33 documentaries, including Ladies’ Turn, about a Senegalese women’s football tournament. Also this month, the Cultura Inglesa Festival (see Music) features two Brit-themed film seasons. Rockumentários Britânicos, will showcase five music-related documentaries, including Crossfire Hurricane, celebrating the Rolling Stones’ 50-year career, while the Mostra de Cinema Contemporâneo
A girl thing Women’s football takes centre stage in ‘Ladies’ Turn’
Britânico screens contemporary British films like London: The Modern Babylon, by the legendary filmmaker and music video director, Julian Temple. Cinefoot is at the Museu do
Futebol (see Around Town) and Espaço Itaú de Cinema Augusta (see listings), 6-11 June (cinefoot.org). Cultura Inglesa Festival is from 17 May-30 June. Full programme at festival. culturainglesasp.com.br.
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Gay & Lesbian Pride and prejudice SP’s Gay Pride reaches its 17th year as a new, grassroots equal-rights campaign gets underway, says Claire Rigby
nw s, when here to be and info Pride,during SP’sand head Gay TOSPG to j.mp/ LS
Our tips Safety & security
Leave jewellery, passports, credit cards, expensive cell phones, cameras and other valuables at home or in your hotel’s safe. Only carry essential amounts of cash and one photo ID.
If you want to avoid the worst excesses of the drunkenness and carousing that become a part of the party as it draws to a close, head to the parade early, joining it around noon, and consider wrapping it up by around 3 or 4pm. Mídia ninja
Kiss off Coutinho (left) and Wyllys share a kiss at Praça Roosevelt (‘LaerteRepresentsMe’), referring to the much-loved trans cartoonist Laerte Coutinho, one of the leaders of a new, parallel ‘Extraordinary Commission on Human Rights and Minorities’ (Comissão Extraordinaria de Direitos Humanos e Minorias) that was born on 25 April this year with a mass meeting at SP’s Praça Roosevelt. ‘In a way, the Feliciano episode has been a good thing,’ said SP councilman Nabil Bonduki,
It’s Pride time again, and São Paulo’s LGBT community, plus the ‘simpatizantes’ who make up the simpático ‘S’ in ‘GLS’ (a Portuguese equivalent for LGBT) will be out in force on Avenida Paulista for the city’s 17th annual Pride Parade – the Parada Gay. This year’s theme is ‘Never again in the closet! Unity and awareness in the fight against homophobia’ (‘Para o armário, nunca mais! União e conscientização na luta contra a homofobia’). It’s an apposite one, given the appointment this year of the homophobic pastor Marco Feliciano as the president of Brazil’s congressional Human Rights and Minorities Commission. A grassroots, nationwide movement has sprung up against Feliciano, who has said, ‘love between people of the same sex leads to hatred, crime and rejection’, and who claims that thanks to spiritual assistance, ‘many’ members of his congregation, affiliated to the Assembleia de Deus evangelical church, have stopped being gay. The #FelicianoNãoMeRepresenta (‘FelicianoDoesNotRepresentMe’) hashtag quickly mutated into variations like #LaerteMeRepresenta
More onlin For ev e ents, partie o
Out and proud Big crowds rally along Avenida Paulista for SP’s Pride Parade
speaking at the public meeting. ‘We’ve had to organise, mobilise and create a counter-movement’. Speaking at the same meeting, the national congressman Jean Wyllys, who rose to fame, incredibly, by winning Big Brother in 2005, said, ‘I’d rather my sexuality were of no consequence. But it is. It’s stigmatised. The only way I have of rising above that stigma is to embody that identity –but I’d prefer it if I didn’t have to.’ We’d be surprised if there isn’t at least the odd effigy of Feliciano bobbing about around one of the twenty or so floats that are set to cruise along Avenida Paulista, ending up at Praça Roosevelt. The event culminates in a concert, at 7pm in Praça da República, with the lesbian singer Ellen Oléria, winner of last year’s reality TV singing competition, The Voice Brasil. The numbers reported for SP’s Parada Gay have reached a giddy 3 million in previous years, though figures of that kind are best taken with a large pinch of salt. But even if the numbers wheeled out annually sound a bit overenthusiastic, there’s still an awful lot of pride – yes, and prejudice
Women have occasionally been the targets of sexual harassment by men at the parade over the past few years. Walking away is usually enough to deal with uncomfortable situations but municipal and state police officers are on hand in case things get tricky.
Getting there & away
The quickest way to get to the festivities is by taking the metrô to Trianon-Masp or Consolação stations along Linha 2, which runs the length of Avenida Paulista. If you need a breather, exit down any of the side streets into Jardins, south of Paulista, where you can sit down and have a coffee or a beer in relative quiet – the bulk of the crowd will be heading in the opposite direction.
– about. Check the box (above), and our site (j.mp/TOSPGLS), for the best ways to enjoy yourself, and stay safe, at the year’s biggest, gayest event. Gay Pride (the Parada) is on 2 June, assembling on Avenida Paulista close to MASP from 11am. It moves along Rua da Consolação to end at Praça Roosevelt (3km).
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Music & Nightlife Year of the Cat Kim Taylor Bennett discovers seven things you never knew about the singer Cat Power Since emerging in 1995 with her stripped-back debut album, Dear Sir, Atlanta’s Cat Power – born Charlyn Marshall – has intrigued and confounded. At their best, her songs are scorched, raw confessionals. Whether discussing her drinking, her mental state or her relationships, Power’s selfassessment is unflinching.
1 She’s part Cherokee. ‘My mom used to tell me about her granddad. He died before I was born, but he was fullblood Cherokee. I have Cherokee on both my mom and my dad’s side.’
She’s tuned 2 in to worlds beyond this one.
Camille Garmendia/press image
‘Have I had supernatural experiences just like thousands of other people have? Yeah. In this world you’re nuts, you need lithium and you’re going to get shock treatment if you discuss it because it’s invalid… I know I sound crazy but I’m not.’
She was born 3 prematurely, which almost left her blind and deaf.
‘When I was little I was in an incubator for two or three months. My ears and eyes were really infected so they didn’t know if I was going to be able to see or hear. I think being removed from my mother’s womb and going directly into this place where there was light and warmth, completely alienated from all human touch, did something subconsciously. I think that’s responsible for causing the mind to have some sort of defence mechanism.’
dreams have 4 Her large casts.
‘My grandmother was very religious and after she finished reading me my favourite stories, as I’d be going
Blinding sun The husky-voiced Cat Power infused her latest album, ‘Sun’, with her trademark raw emotion
to sleep she’d start to read the Bible. Sometimes I’d wake up on the floor, falling off the bed and the person there when I woke up was always this dude that looked like Jesus with all this white light. Lucid dreaming. I’ve had people come into my room since I was a little baby. When I was 12 or 13 it was this girl from the 1800s who would float around, then there were hookers when I was in Atlanta.’
She lost a boyfriend 5 to model Agyness Deyn in June. ‘I was in a relationship for four
years… and there were a lot of new things I was learning, like how a healthy family operates. There was a lot of hope, positivity and self-growth. Then that kind of fell apart. ‘You know when you’ve been cheerleading for a successful relationship? When that fails you feel like a failure and all the things that come with that – [being] a 40-year-old female – those things are really heavy hitters. But because of that I think I’m much more optimistic about things now than before I entered that relationship.’
loves stand-up 6 She comedy.
‘It’s the bravest thing I’ve ever seen. It’s like brain surgery. They’re up there alone and they just rip a hole in themselves.’
got her eyes 7 She’s on Hollywood.
‘I want to make major motion pictures. It’s something I’ve always wanted to do and in my ex-relationship – he’s an actor, whatever, who cares – being around that a little bit more … that’s why I was like, “I can fucking direct this shit myself!” ’
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Album review Live previews Depeche Mode Cat Power
Delta Machine (Mute/Columbia)
Back again Depeche Mode
actor Giovanni Ribisi, ended the relationship; four months later, he married a model. Marshall not only failed to crumble, but delivered her gutsiest, zestiest album yet: Sun, a fun and magnificent declaration of independence. An online review termed Marshall’s tour-opening Miami date a trainwreck. Whether her São Paulo show will suffer a similar fate, no one can say. But as Marshall herself sings in one old song, ‘If you’re looking for something easy, you might as well give it up’. Sophie Harris Cat Power plays at Cine Joia, Praça Carlos Gomes 82, Sé (3231 3705/cinejoia.tv) on 21 May, 10pm. Tickets R$90-$180.
Music & Nightlife
Are you ready to be pleasantly surprised? Depeche Mode’s new album is one of the best things they’ve ever recorded. Delta Machine stands up next to Violator (1990) and Black Celebration (1986), and like those classic releases it’s a big, dark, dramatic record by a band confidently expanding on an established sound. On Delta Machine, that means a whole hour of warped, distorted and fidgety synthesisers colliding with mutated blues guitar stomps. ‘Alone’ is a chilly, pulsing ballad, ‘Soothe My Soul’ a triple-time slammer, and on closing track ‘Goodbye’, guitars and synths alternate and then bleed into one another, making the last minute of the album an awesomely fuzzy electrical storm. Despite constant ill-health and a history of heroin addiction, Dave Gahan sings like a superhuman, howling on ‘Angel’ like two Nick Caves. It’s not all good news. Martin Gore still doesn’t have the vocal swagger to carry off some of his more melodramatic lyrics, and Gahan’s song ‘Broken’ is a lazy rewrite of Gore’s excellent 1986 single ‘A Question of Time’. But Delta Machine is thrilling and scarily immersive, and a welcome reminder that Depeche Mode haven’t lost their ability to shock. James Manning
It’s been nearly 20 years since Chan Marshall played her first Cat Power gigs in NYC – experimental performances including a show in which she sang the word no repeatedly for 15 minutes. By the end of the ’90s, she had achieved cult status: partly on account of her extraordinary ’98 album, Moon Pix, a collection of songs so deep and sad, you could drown drunk in them, and partly because of her pathological stage fright. Much like shows by her idol, Nina Simone, a Cat Power date
could be the best thing you’d ever seen, or the worst; most likely it hit on moments of both. Then came The Greatest (2006), on which Marshall matched her husky voice to vintage soul arrangements. She pulled back her hair and smiled onstage; and while smoking a cigarette in Paris, she was spotted by Karl Lagerfeld, who was instantly enraptured. She became the new face of Chanel jewellery – but around the same time, she was hospitalised for a well-publicised mental breakdown. What we see, time and again, is that Marshall is a survivor, capable of turning the ‘no, no, no’ into a ‘yes, yes, yes’. Right before the release of her latest album, Sun, her longtime partner,
Jerry and Lois Levin/press image
The Atlanta-born singer brings the soulful songs from her most recent album, Sun, to Cine Joia
Rocking out British rock vets Yes haven’t lost their touch, still filling major music venues around the world
The band is back on tour, and ready to relive some of their greatest rock hits on the São Paulo stage Formed in 1968 by bassist Chris Squire and singer Jon Anderson, British band Yes are prehaps best known for the upbeat and instantly recognisable 1983 pop-rock hit, ‘Owner of a Lonely Heart’. However, it was an earlier, more psychedelic and altogether more turquoise-
tunic-wearing incarnation of Yes that gained them critical accolades as the visionaries of progressive rock in the 1970s. Characterised by elaborate vocal arrangements, trippy ambience and transcendental lyrics at their creative apogee, to date Yes have released twenty studio albums, and tirelessly toured the world for the last four decades. The band’s 2013 Spring Tour stop in São Paulo promises fans a start-to-finish rendition of their three progressive rock album
classics: 1971’s The Yes Album, 1972’s Close to the Edge, and 1977’s Going for the One – albeit without the original lead singer, Jon Anderson, who left the band in 2008 due to health problems. The band is currently fronted by vocalist Jon Davison. Maria López Conde Yes play at HSBC Brasil, Rua Bragança Paulista 1281, Chácara Santo Antônio (4003 1212/ hsbcbrasil.com.br) on 23 and 24 May, 10pm. Tickets R$100-$380.
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The BMW Jazz Festival hits Brazilian stages this June with an eclectic set of world-class musicians
Bubbling along quietly, but growing in breadth and stature, the São Paulo jazz scene has a handful of well-established, standout joints – Jazz nos Fundos and Bourbon Street Music Club –
Creative collaboration Jazz masters Joe Lovano (front) and Dave Douglas
multi-instrumentalist, Joe Lovano. The event comes to a climactic end with the free annual open-air show at Auditório Ibirapuera on Sunday. Get there early, grab a good spot on the grass, and soak up the cool breeze and the cool sounds. The BMW Jazz Festival takes place at HSBC Brasil, Rua Bragança Paulista 1281, Chácara Santo Antônio (4003 1212/ hsbcbrasil.com.br) on 6-8 June, 9pm followed by a free concert at Parque do Ibirapuera on 9 June, 5pm. Tickets R$50-$140 (ingressorapido.com.br).
PROGRAMME Thursday, 6 June from 9pm •Pat Metheny Unity Band Friday, 7 June from 9pm • James Farm • Esperanza Spalding • Egberto Gismonti and the Orquestra Corações Futuristas Saturday, 8 June from 9pm • Brad Mehldau Trio • Johnathan Blake Quintet • Joe Lovano and Dave Douglas Sunday, 9 June from 5pm •Free outdoor concert
Cultura Inglesa Festival Brit pop is back in São Paulo with the return of the annual music, art and performance fest You might be from Durham, Carlisle, Merseyside or Slough; but if you’re English and you’re in Brazil, admit it: you know you’re from London really. Or you may suspect you are, once you’ve been introduced as being from ‘Londres’ – synonymous with ‘England’ – enough times. With a similar apparent vagueness about the mysteries of the British Isles (don’t worry, most Brits are a bit confused too), at least the Cultura Inglesa festival, which celebrates the best of British, rather than English culture, has an excuse: it takes its name from the chain of language schools that runs it. Now in its 17th year in São Paulo, the four-week festival offers a packed programme of art, music, film, theatre and dance
performances by British artists – and best of all, it’s all free. Past festivals have included musical heavy hitters like Franz Ferdinand, The Horrors and Gang of Four. This year, the slightly less stellar indie songstress Kate Nash makes her first appearance in Brazil since 2011, presenting her new self-released album Girl Talk; and with harmonies more evocative of summer days in San Francisco than of Ealing, West London, where they’re from, The Magic Numbers will be performing hits like ‘Forever Lost’ from their self-titled album. Putting a bit of spin on the festival’s all-British theme, the Brazilian band Bonde do Rolê, known for their mix of rock and funk carioca – and incidentally, one of the best known contemporary Brazilian bands among UK hipsters, alongside CSS – take to the stage with a musical tribute to The Cure. A series of documentary screenings is another highlight this year (see Film); and with a theme
of street culture running through the entire festival, look out, too, for street-art-themed talks and events, and art exhibitions held at metrô stations, featuring images on the evolution of graffiti and Britishinspired fashion around the world.
Cultura Inglesa Festival takes place from 17 May to 30 June at Memorial da América Latina and citywide, followed by dates in towns across São Paulo state. For the full programme, visit festival. culturainglesasp.com.br.
juan salvarredy/press image
Music & Nightlife
Fresh faced Esperanza Spalding
plus interesting new developments in the shape of the new Jazz B and Facundo Guerra’s soon-to-come Riviera, set to open in July. And in June, the prestigious annual BMW Jazz Festival will be flooding the city with saxes, trumpets and the syncopated patterns of jazz, as world-class musicians of the genre hit town for a four-day affair, parts of which are also taking place over two days, simultaneously, in Rio. The twenty-time Grammywinning guitar virtuoso Pat Metheny gets top billing as he kicks off the festivities with a two-hour set, backed by his new Unity Band. Friday features the young jazz dazzler Esperanza Spalding (see photo, left), playing tracks from last year’s Radio Music Society LP; while saxophone fans who were dazzled by Maceo Parker’s performance last year are taken care of with Joshua Redman’s new acoustic jazz project, the James Farm quartet. Saturday’s lineup includes the US pianist Brad Melhdau, best known for his collaborations with John Mayer and Radiohead, as well as Dave Douglas, with his customary improvisation and wild trumpets, playing alongside the versatile post-bop jazz master and
BMW Jazz Festival
Kill or Cure The Brazilian band Bonde do Rolê pay homage to The Cure
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Nightclubs What’s going on Metanol
Indie & rock
How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs and live music venues. A marks our favourite spots. Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.
A seven-strong collective of DJs and one VJ, Metanol have it going on all over the place currently, running a series of fun, free itinerant street parties (see photo); a monthly night, Inflamável, at their own place, espaço S/A; and a monthly residency at Neu Club. Spinning a mix of techno, glitchrock, UK garage and funk under the umbrella of ‘new electronica’, the group started out just over a year ago, though the online radio show of the same name, presented by collective member Akin Deckard, has been going out live, weekly, for almost four years. As their definitely cool, but also unpretentious, come-one-comeall street parties attest, Metanol
when party animals, off–duty hookers, tourists, clubbers and whoever else is still awake in the edgy downtown party zone lets loose until the early hours. Rua Araújo 232, República (3231 3101/ danceterialovestory.tur.br). Metrô 3, República. Open midnight-late Mon-Sat. Prices cover R$60.
Electronica Casa 92 Dance under the stars in the summer heat at this 1950s houseturned-club, or sit by a real log fire when the nights turn cold. DJs spin everything from electro rock and ‘80s disco to house. Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (3032 0371/casa92.blogspot.com). Open 10.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinhas R$15; cover R$50. Clash Club The young, pretty crowd at this swish, ultra–modern club gets seriously animated to the latest electronic music. Rua Barra Funda 969, Barra Funda (3661 1500/clashclub.com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda. Open midnightlate Tues, Fri, Sat. Prices can of beer
might be a tribe, but they’re not into musical tribalism. ‘At the block parties, all seven of us play, one after another – techno, garage, funk,’ says Deckard. ‘People have wrong ideas about what electronica can be. We like to demystify it.’ Claire Rigby The next Inflamável party at espaço S/A (Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 2096, Pinheiros) is 1 June. Metanol play monthly at LOOUD, at Neu Club (Rua Dona Germaine Burchard 421, Água Branca, neuclub.com.br) – next up, 17 May. The next Metanol na Rua street party is on 30 June, location TBC. Listen to Metanol FM live from 8-10pm every Tuesday, online at metanol.fm.
MPB & Latin
Serralheria Espaço Cultural Popular with an artsy, alternative crowd, this no-frills venue in a small warehouse in Lapa has a laid-back vibe and superfriendly owners. Blending bar and exhibition space, you’ll find everything from photography to video art and sculpture on display in the covered outdoor bar area, while eclectic live music sets are hosted in the cosier indoor space. Go early on Saturday evenings – check before heading over, as it’s a bit of a schlep from downtoen – to pick up one-off bags and T-shirts at the bazaar. R$8; cover R$50-$60. D–Edge D–Edge is seriously Rua Guaicurus 857, Lapa (6794 0124/ dedicated to underground electronic escapeserralheria.org). Open 9pm-2am music, with a wall that lights up with a Fri; 9.30pm-2am Sat. Prices small giant equaliser, pulsing in time to the bottle of beer R$4; cover R$10. relentless beats, and a beautiful Tapas Another nonchalantly terrace. Alameda Olga 170, cool hangout on the Augusta Barra Funda (3665 strip, Tapas is a two-storey 9500/d-edge.com.br). bar that looks like an Open midnight-7am upmarket squat from Mon, Wed-Sat. 1970s Amsterdam. Prices can of beer The ground-floor bar R$8; caipirinha is small, but a long dhu a M tR$12; cover R$20mirror behind the bar sty fas ta d n a $80. doubles up as a spaceCheap Indian fare. d t Disco This club is a amplifier and menu, with foo ting Ou See Ea favourite with the city’s prices written on it in young, beautiful and rich, white ink. DJs and live although it’s quite small and bands pack out the dark often beyond crowded, so it might dancefloor upstairs with a healthy mix take a little patience until you find your of ages and musical styles, from dub spot out there on the dancefloor. The and R&B to hip hop and jazz. Lines to highlight of the space – a creation by get in can reach right round the corner, architect Isay Weinfeld – a glittering so be sure to arrive early for a smooth mirrored corridor that takes you from entry. Rua Augusta 246, Consolação the door to the floor. Rua Professor Atílio (tapasclub.com.br). Metrô 2, Innocenti 160, Itaim Bibi (3078 0404/ Consolação. Open 9pm-5am Tue-Sat; clubdisco.com.br). Open 11pm-late Wed, 8pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; Fri, Sat. Prices cover R$50-$100. caipirinha R$11; cover R$5-R$15.
Music & Nightlife
Alberta #3 The dancefloor at this hip, non-poser downtown joint could be jumping to anything from indie to disco – so if you’re in the mood for rock, check who’s on the decks before rolling up or you might be surprised by wall-to-wall MPB. Avenida São Luís 272, República (3152 5299/alberta3.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$4; caipirinha R$12; cover R$15-$35 (after 10pm). Bar Secreto This isn’t exactly a bar, in spite of its name – it’s definitely a balada, or nightclub. But set in a discreet corner of Pinheiros close to the FNAC bookstore, Bar Secreto does, on the other hand, have a slightly secretive air about it. You can’t call, for example – contact is only via email. The exclusive club, peopled by fashionistas and hipsters, walks the walk, too – Madonna threw a party here in 2008, and Bono himself had a crack at the karaoke at an aftershow party. Rua Álvaro Anes 9, Pinheiros (sitedobar.com). Open 10pm5am Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$22; cover R$80. Gloria Functioning as a gay club during the rest of the week, on Thursday nights this former church in Bela Vista rocks a mixed crowd of university kids and B-boys from the ‘periphery’ – São Paulo’s grittier outer reaches – with hip hop, soul and dancehall. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/clubegloria.com. br). Open 11pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$9; caipirinha R$18; cover R$20-$50. Hot Hot Big with the fashion crowd and rich kids, Hot Hot has a plush upstairs bar decorated in lurid 1970s wallpaper. Downstairs a dark dancefloor has one of the best soundsystems in the city, pumping out electronic beats from Brazilian and international DJs. Rua Santo Antônio 570, Bela Vista (2985 8685/hothotsite.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$30-$80. Lions This downtown club in a 1950s building has a slightly exclusive air, with high ceilings and decor inspired by 19thcentury gentlemen’s clubs, right down to the stuffed animal heads on the walls. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, Centro (3104 7157/lionsnightclub.com. br). Open midnight-6am Tue, Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$18; cover R$30-$120. Love Story Love Story isn’t about the music – it’s about a decadent party that doesn’t get going until well after 2.30am,
Use Aem/PRESS IMAGE
Estúdio Emme Tending to attract a younger crowd, Estúdio Emme incorporates a boutique, salon, bookshop (alright – a bookshelf) as well as a live venue and performance space. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 1036, Pinheiros (3814 7383/estudioemme. com.br). Open 10pm-6am Wed; 11.30pm-6am Thu-Sat. Prices can of beer R$7; cover R$20-$50. Funhouse Set in a house in the typical style of this neighbourhood, Funhouse is a unique mix of house party, bar and mini-club. On its off days, Funhouse can be a little empty and depressing; but when the party’s good – the fluorescent party is fairly reliable – the queue can go round the block. Rua Bela Cintra 567, Consolação (3854 6522/ funhouse.com.br). Open 10pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$50. Inferno Club It’s not just the music, but the leopard-print walls and abundance of neon signs, that scream rock’n’roll at Inferno, down towards the bottom end of busy Baixo Augusta. Live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor, although other genres, like funk, get the occasional look-in on the programme, too. Escape to the mezzanine for a bird’s-eye view. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/infernoclub. com.br). Open 11pm-6am; Thu-Sun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.
IN THE AREA
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Football & World Cup 2014 speculation in the Brazilian press. In the new autobiography, Casagrande e Seus Demônios (‘Casagrande and His Demons’ [in Portuguese only], Globo, R$34.90), written by the ex-player and football commentator Walter Casagrande, with Gilvan Ribeiro, Casagrande shows that drugs can get the best of any player. In the book, Casagrande recounts in detail how he fell in deep with cocaine and heroin, having retired from playing professional football. Already established in his career as a commentator for Globo TV, he overdosed no less than four times. The last time, which resulted in a terrible car accident, landed him in rehab for a year, half of which was spent without any contact with family and friends. ‘One of the most important steps to recovery is to look yourself in the mirror and admit that Footballer Casagrande’s you have a serious drug problem,’ writes the ex-athlete, admitting that autobiography covers for him, the battle isn’t over yet. football, drugs and At the same time, his intention politics, reports in writing the book is not to set an example for others, he claims. He isn’t Cecília Gianesi out to lecture on the importance of fighting drugs, or to provide self-help Football players and drugs shouldn’t for other drug abusers on the path to mix, but unfortunately, they often do. recovery. And while he isn’t proud of Stars like Maradona, Sócrates (1954some of the things he’s done, he says 2011), and Garrincha (1933-1983) he doesn’t regret anything. have more in common than their Touching on another aspect of ability to play ball: they have also his life, two of the book’s chapters suffered the fallout from substance describe how Casagrande made a abuse. The most recent example of name for himself by consistently this ugly liaison seems to be Adriano, providing1:06 livelyPM defence for teams whose apparent problems with 1 5/25/12 AN_RODAPE_AF.pdf such as Corinthians, São Paulo, alcohol have been the source of much
Shaky ground Torino (Italy), and Flamengo, not to mention the Brazilian national team. Off the pitch, he used the same energy to get involved in politics. Casagrande fought for greater respect and freedom for footballers in the 1980s, along with his clubmates, Wladimir and Sócrates – the latter of whom was his most important partner on the field and, in Casagrande’s own words, a close friend. Within Corinthians, they succeeded in abolishing concentração for married players (a practice whereby players were effectively locked up in a hotel for days before a game), the banning of drinking and smoking in public, and obtained permission to actively participate in voting on team hiring and firing decisions. Casagrande was also part of the Democracia Corintiana movement, which fought against Brazil’s military dictatorship. Players attended rallies and printed slogans such as ‘Rights Now’, and ‘I Want To Vote For President’ on their shirts. Casagrande’s politics landed his name on the blacklist of DOPS (the Department of Political and Social Order, a police branch in charge of political repression during Brazil’s military regime), and also led to him doing time in prison for the possession of cocaine, which he maintains was a set-up. At his athletic peak, Casagrande helped spread the importance of democracy. Today, with his story, he hopes to convey the message that honesty is just as fundamental.
Brazil’s rattly answer to the vuvuzela, the caxirola, is off to a shaky start In a possible attempt to drown out the clamour stemming from the delays and ballooning costs tied to next year’s World Cup, Brazil – apparently heedless of the backlash from 2010 host South Africa’s infamous vuvuzela horn – unveiled its own musical creation. The caxirola (below), pronounced ‘cashi-row-la’, is a percussion instrument (essentially a green-and-yellow plastic rattle) set to debut in June’s FIFA Confederations Cup – the host country’s dress rehearsal for 2014’s main event. Albeit designed to be less strident than the vuvuzela, the caxirola is, however, at the centre of a row following a trial run on 28 April, when fans at the Fonte Nova stadium in Salvador threw caxirolas onto the field in protest at the players’ poor performance. Fears that the rattle’s days might be numbered before they’d even begun may be premature, though. ‘Something similar will not necessarily occur if Brazil is losing a game in the Cup,’ said the far-fromreassuring Minister for Sport Aldo Rebelo. Juan Cifrian
Road to recovery
The FIFA World Cup takes place from 12 June to 13 July 2014 in 12 cities around Brazil.
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SP Essentials 64 66
One direction Traffic thunders past the traditionally Japanese neighbourhood, Liberdade
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Igreja da Consolação
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Praça Princesa Isabel
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Resources EMERGENCIES Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.
da República, and around Estação da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.
instant São Paulo
TELEPHONES For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.
LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).
MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil. Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$100 after 10pm.
Lost & stolen cards
American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680
SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. For security reasons, it’s best not to carry an original passport around, but it’s easy enough to get a copy of a passport certified at the offices of a notary public (cartório). As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuablelooking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça
DiaLling & codes
Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.
European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).
TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.
TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT
São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.
catherine balston (@squeezeoflime)
Submit your best Instagram pics of SP for a chance to see them featured on this page. We’ve kicked off with one of our own, taken on Rua Teodoro Sampaio, in Pinheiros. To submit yours, tag your photos with #timeoutsp, and we’ll pick the best photo each month. for one when you buy a ticket. A ride to any destination costs R$3 and tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br). CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.
Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit). The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains. One bus ride is R$3, or for R$4.65 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.
Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App or SaferTaxi. Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand. Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499
City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3), or use a Bilhete Único.
Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask
Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport
corresponding to the country in which your licence was issued. Avis 3259 6868/avis.com Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Movida 3075 8686/movida.com.br
There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closed-off roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa. com.br).
Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot. The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins. When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.
São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo. com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img.org. br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.
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DISCOVER THE BEAUTY AND QUALITY OF BRAZIL’S MOST TRADITIONAL PHARMACY
JARDINS: Rua Haddock Lobo, 1353 tel: 3061 0891 | HOTEL GRAND HYATT: Avenida das Nações Unidas, 13301 tel: 5505 0899 SHOPPING VILA OLÍMPIA: Rua das Olimpíadas, 360 - 2º floor tel: 3045 5018 | SHOPPING RIbEIRãO: Av. Coronel Fernando Ferreira Leite , 1540 tel: (16) 3620 3003 | SHOPPING GALLERIA: Rodovia Dom Pedro I - Km 131,5 - S/N tel: (19) 3207 2047