Premium Magazine Winter 2010

Page 45

PREMIUM I WATCHES is bent back. The chronograph case is produced with a traditional cold-forming process in which small solid-gold bars are gradually swaged into cases in high-precision dies using heavy-duty presses. After each cycle, the case parts are heated to relieve internal stresses. Once the case blanks have been formed, they are deburred, ground, and polished in several consecutive phases with successively finer abrasives.

Ref. 5980/1A-014 Caliber CH 28-520 C Self-winding mechanical movement mm stainless steel case 30 Charcoal grey gradient dial Stainless steel bracelet with stainless steel fold-over clasp

The result of this time-consuming series of processes is a mirrorpolished case that from then on is handled only with gloves to eliminate even the slightest blemish. Elegance paired with functionality The Ref. 5170J chronograph is a consummate statement of timeless elegance. The silvery white dial has slender applied hour markers as well as yellow-gold applied Roman numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock and black transfer-printed scales. The logarithmic pulsimeter scale on the outermost perimeter is calibrated to 15 heartbeats, revisiting the traditional doctor’s watch. The railway track minute scale features slightly compressed Breguet numerals. The seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock are recessed in the main dial and arranged somewhat below the horizontal center axis to balance the maker’s signature and the pulsimeter scale inscription in the upper half of the face. The hour, minute, and seconds hands that indicate legal time are crafted from yellow gold to match the hour markers and Roman numerals, while the chronograph seconds and minute hands are

black. The counterbalanced trotteuse is black oxidized, and the instantaneously jumping 30-minute counter is made of black nickelplated yellow gold. Unquestionably,

the face of the Ref. 5170J can hardly be excelled as regards elegance, beauty, and legibility. www.patek.com

45 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010


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