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NEW!

STEP UP YOUR SKILLS: REPLACING A BROKEN ZIP SHIRRING IN EASY STEPS IN IN UK UK SIZES SIZES 6-20 6-20

Y Y L E , Y O U R WA T S R U O Y G N I SEW

SEW YOUR

ULTIMATE summer wardrobe

EASY-TO-SEW COCOON DRESS

DRESS TO IMPRESS: Glam patterns with the wow factor!

High street SECRETS

3-IN-1 ! T PROJEC

YOUR 4-IN-1 PATTERN

Find out how your clothes are made

FUN FELINE FRIEND

WORK OUT IN STYLE

SEW YOUR OWN GYM BAG

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ON TREND &

inspiring PROJECTS

for sewing your own style

KIDS' DUNGAREES FOR AGES 1-4

ARTISTIC UPCYCLING

ISSUE 8 UK £7.99 www.sewnowmag.co.uk


WELCOME

Hello

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I’m definitely in the holiday mood after recent bouts of very welcome sunshine, and I’m keen to make sure that this is the year I pack light. After booking only carry-on luggage, I really have no choice! Luckily, both of this issue’s free patterns are not only bang on trend, but super versatile and ideal for travelling light.

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The Butterick 5889 top pattern (page 14) is ideal for summer, and the four versions offer a range of details to suit every skill level. The Simple Sew Cocoon dress (page 16) is a breeze to sew and its flowing shape guarantees an eye-catching yet casual look. Choose viscose to minimise creasing and you have the perfect holiday garment. Remaining in the holiday mood, we’ve the pretty Lazy Days Top (page 24) from Made it Patterns, with unique fauxbutton detail and bell sleeves. I can’t wait to make this in a vintage ditsy floral I‘ve had squirrelled away for years. Our Relaxed Harem Pants (page 56) with shirred waistband and cuffs are great for travelling, or just hanging out at home, and you can follow our Skill Builder (page 60) to learn how to shirr successfully. For days out, the Fly Away Clutch (page 44) is the perfect size for all your essentials. If a staycation is on the agenda this year, brighten up your surroundings with our Piped Seat Cushion (page 52), the Pretty Printed Shower Curtain (page 84) or motivate yourself to make those trips to the gym by sewing the ingenious three-in-one Super-useful Gym Storage Kit (page 38).

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As usual, refashioning is high on our agenda and the Persian Pickles (page 82) and Palazzo Pants to Pencil Skirt (page 32) projects are simple but effective. They both breathe new life into pre-loved denims – something we can all lay our hands on. Full of ideas and inspiration, the Sew Now team brings you the latest patterns, fabric and skills to help improve your summer wardrobe and keep your holiday packing to a minimum!

Sam

Editor sam.sterken@practicalpublishing.co.uk

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS We’d love to hear your thoughts about Sew Now. Find and follow us on:

www.facebook.com/sewnowmag www.twitter.com/sewnowmag www.instagram.com/sewnowmag www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE OF

56 FREE

Sew Caroline Weekend Style book Turn to page 62 for details of how to subscribe!

48

43 REGULARS

FEATURES

6 10

20

NEWS What’s new in sewing

HOT OFF THE PRESS New pattern release news from The Fold Line

60 64 74

SKILL BUILDER Jeanette Archer explains shirring SUSTAINABLE TAILORING Replacing a broken zip

37

22 34

81

TEAM TALK Find out what’s new on the Sew Now team’s radar

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88

READERS’ MAKES What you’ve been sewing this month

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93 94 96

90

TUTORIALS

PROJECTS

32

14

ANGELINE MURPHY Angeline shares her summer style choices

SEWING WORKSHOPS Learn new skills and make new friends

www.facebook.com/sewnowmag

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SEWING START UP Behind the scenes at vintage fabric emporium Til The Sun Goes Down

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DAY AT THE RACES Sew your own outfit for race day

CRAFT IN THE COMMUNITY Meet Stacie Madden, organiser of the SEWMANCE festival PATTERN REVIEW Named''s Anneli dress gets the once-over BACK-PAGE BLOGGER We chat with blogger Nina Chang

PALAZZO PANTS TO PENCIL SKIRT Refashion one wardrobe staple into another

www.twitter.com/sewnowmag

FINISHING SCHOOL Sew professional button bands – Alison Smith shows you how CHOOSING FABRIC Top tips for buying the right fabric MASTER YOUR MACHINE Find out what all the buttons mean SEWING KNOW-HOW Basic stitches explained

FREE BUTTERICK TOP PATTERN Four fantastic cold-shoulder tops ready for summer

www.instagram.com/sewnowmag

www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag


CONTENTS

32

MEET THE TEAM Editor

Deputy Editor

Bethany

Sam Stylist

Seamstress

52 Jeanette

Jo SKILL LEVEL GUIDE

Editorial Assistant

Beginner Adventurous beginner

44

18

Intermediate Advanced

16

66

48

24

76 82

50 54 55

FREE SIMPLE SEW DRESS PATTERN Style and comfort in one easy-sew dress LAZY DAYS TOP Pretty bell-sleeve top with faux-button detail

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SUPER USEFUL GYM SET Exercise your sewing skills with this fantastic set

44

FLY AWAY CLUTCH Sew this lightweight cross-body bag with detachable strap today

RETRO TOY CAT Friendly feline softie with a retro feel KIDS' CLASSIC DUNGAREES Perfect for adventurous toddlers!

PERSIAN PICKLES Customise a shirt with paisley hand embroidery

84

PRETTY PRINTED SHOWER CURTAIN Make the most of laminate cotton INSPIRATION

52

PIPED SEAT PAD Brighten your home with this simple seat pad

18

56

28

RELAXED HAREM PANTS Shirred cuff comfy jersey harem pants

WEAR IT WITH Create four striking looks with your free pattern

FATHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE Our pick of presents and patterns perfect for Father's Day

Jenny

FASHION FIRST Discover Fashion Capital and how it supports new designers

EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS!

20% OFF Tilly & The Buttons patterns at Cotton Reel Studios AND 20% OFF chambray fabric at Minerva Crafts Turn to page 71 to find out more

STYLE FILE Hop on the shirt trend GET THE LOOK Metallic sports luxe

CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Selected fabric to suit every style

72 87 89

ARE YOU LISTENING? Top 10 favourite podcasts to sew to HOME STYLE Get the laundry look

ONLINE BUSINESS TIPS How to get your creative business online

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SEW I T YO U R WAY

Turn to page 93 for Alice and Lilia's tips on choosing fabric

Demystify patterns with Pattern Making Templates for Skirts and Dresses. Written by mother-daughter sewists, Alice Prier and Lilia Prier Tisdall, it’s packed with useful advice and practical instructions to help you to create your own customised pattern templates. You begin with downloadable blocks and then are taught to adapt and fit each one to your shape, before transforming them into a variety of pattern types, including dresses, pencil skirts, evening gowns and mini skirts. Ideal for anyone looking to grow their me-made wardrobe! Buy your copy at www.searchpress.com

Buckle up As we move from spring to summer, separates make the perfect transitional choice. The new Lazo Trousers pattern from Thread Theory’s Meadow Collection has a cropped length for warmer weather and the relaxed, tapered legs and roomy pleats make for a comfortable and flattering shape all year round. We especially love the wide waistband, which you can really make a feature of with the addition of statement buttons or buckles. Take a closer look at www.backstitch.co.uk

Lazo trousers Sizes US 0-18 (UK 4-22)

WHAT’S NEW? The products, patterns and events on our radar this month

CUSTOM CARDI Cardigan patterns don’t come more versatile than the clever Juniper cardigan pattern from Jennifer Lauren. It features saddle shoulder details and a flattering V-shaped neckline, and you can choose from a more casual longerlength or pick out a cropped version to add vintage flair to your favourite sundress. There are also long-sleeved and three-quarter length options, as well as the chance to colour block, allowing you to customise the pattern to suit you. Designed with intermediate to advanced sewists in mind, it’ll help you to build your confidence when sewing with knits and leave you with a chic cardigan you can be proud of! Pick up yours at www.jenniferlaurenhandmade.store Go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow8 for your chance to win one of two FREE patterns.

WIN!

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C LUB TRO PIC ANA

Come explore the world of needlecraft with the latest Craft Sanctuary Retreat. On 25th – 27th August you can master stumpwork, goldwork and cross stitch with the help of talented embroiderer Sophie Long and needlework aficionado Genevieve Brading from the stitching brand Floss & Mischief. The workshops are held in a beautiful Georgian manor house in Oxfordshire and tickets include stitching kits, food and accommodation. Book your spot at www.craftsanctuary.co.uk


NEWS

SEW STYLISH Let your sewing machine inspire your stitching with the new limited edition models from Bernina. They are designed to boost your creativity and brighten up your crafty space; and we’re big fans of the Bernina 350 Hello Lovely and I Love Sewing machines, which feature faceplates designed by the folks at Cotton + Steel. They’re pretty competent machines too, with a free-arm extension table, permanent memory function and extensive stitch library. Find your nearest stockist at www.bernina.com

Size UK 8-20

It’s a wrap! We’re a bit obsessed with finding the perfect summer dress patterns, and the gorgeous new Eve dress is at the top of the list! A versatile wrap dress, it features two variations, either a floaty and feminine option with a dipped hem and flowy sleeve. This has a definite 70s vibe and would make the ideal wedding outfit. There’s also a more understated version two, which has narrow elbow-length sleeves and a knee-length hem, making it perfect for year-round wear. Suitable for ambitious beginners and beyond. Find out more at www.sewoverit.co.uk

PICK-ME-UP PRINTS Here at Sew Now HQ we can’t get enough of a bold print. Whether you like them loud and proud or delicate and ditsy, the exclusive new fabric range from Seasalt could be just what you’re after. Inspired by her Cornish surroundings, co-founder Sophie Chadwick has designed hundreds of unique prints, which are now available by the metre at www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk. Priced at £9.95 per metre, with three metres for £25 and five metres for £40, this beautiful new collection is perfect for dressmaking, accessories and home décor.

H E RE C O M E S TH E SUM M E R

Bursting with colour and with a fabulous figurehugging silhouette, the latest pattern from Tilly and the Buttons is one of our must sews for summer! The Etta dress boasts bust darts, a statement collar and invisible zip, and can be purchased either as a pattern or as an entire kit so you needn’t worry about picking up the right materials. If you’re a little unsure of where to start then you can also sign up to former Sewing Bee Tilly Walnes’s online video workshop to master each of the techniques involved, all from the comfort of your own home! Discover more at www.tillyandthebuttons.com

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A

D

P

R

I

L

Dresses

resses are my favourite dressmaking project so I’ve been looking forward to this month. It’s been great to see the variety of vintage and modern styles that have appeared. What Corrine Did Next shared an excellent example of a handmade dress that reflects modern high-street trends, using a floral scuba. Scuba fabric is becoming more varied in online stores and I think will be making more of an appearance in our handmade wardrobes this year. For my #wardrobebuilder I was trying to create something that I knew I would wear a lot because it’s something I’ve often wished I had – a classic LBD with sleeves. It’s not often I make something in one solid colour so pattern choice took a lot more thought. I’m glad I went with the Day Dress pattern from The Avid Seamstress because it has a lot of potential. Fabric choice makes a huge difference with this pattern and I can see lots of work staples from this in the future. Lots of people have been doubling up on sewing challenges, which also have dress themes at the same time this month. Sew Journers made a floaty Megan Nielsen Darling Ranges shirt dress which she is planning on using to fulfil at least two sewing challenges at once. I’ve taken a note out of her book and have also made a shirtdress in floral chiffon for my #sewtogetherforsummer project, which you can check out over on my blog. Next month’s theme is skirts and there is a brilliant pattern bundle to be won from Sew Over It, featuring (of course!) the Ultimate Pencil Skirt pattern. Head over to www.thepetitepassions.com on the first of the month to find out more about each month’s theme, prizes and to add to the link up.

Laura

CRAZY FOR KIELY Orla Kiely is one of the most recognisable designers around, with her easily identifiable bold leaf prints, strong geometric shapes and distinctive palette. Her new range is packed with more iconic prints, using cool greys, navy, duck egg blues, dandelion, pale rose and mustards, ideal for home décor sewing. Why not rustle up some colourful throw cushions or create a bold set of curtains using the 100% cotton canvas? Go to www.ashleywildegroup.com to find your local supplier.

Join the tribe! The amazing Kate and Rachel from The Fold Line certainly know a thing or two about patterns, and it’s no surprise to hear that they’ve helped launch a brandnew dressmaking pattern company, Tribe Patterns. Each collection is designed by sewing and creative bloggers, with input from real-life sewists. Patterns are available in both paper and PDF formats in UK sizes 6-24. The first pattern, The Bille Collection, was created with Rachel Pinheiro with four pattern options in one, while the brand-new Parker collection in collaboration with Fiona Parker includes this 70s-inspired dress, plus a top version. Take a closer look at www.thefoldline.com

PIN -U P ICON

Corrine's scuba New Look K6447

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Sew Journers’ Darling Ranges dress

Display your love for sewing with pride using this lovely little enamel pin. Featuring a lilac Singer sewing machine and pincushion, it’d make a sweet gift for any dressmaker. Available from Fickle Craftroom for £7 at www.looklane.com


HOT-OFF-THE-PRESS

PATTERNS

From gorgeous dresses to cosy knits, every one of The Fold Line’s new picks has a place in your wardrobe! BLOOMSBURY BLOUSE Nina Lee London

Sizes UK 8-18 PDF pattern AUS $7.50 (approximately £4.50) www.iconicpatterns.com

This is part of the debut collection of three patterns from Nina Lee London, and this blouse is a perfect summer make. The blouse is a simple silhouette featuring a high collar with button-back fastening. The ruffles are cleverly caught into the curved yoke at the front and back and come in two widths, depending on how daring you are feeling. We’d recommend this pattern for an advanced beginner.

A-LINE DRESS Iconic Patterns This is a new pattern from Iconic Patterns and features a simple A-line shape with cap sleeves, making it easy to fit. Nice details include oversized patch pockets and button-down placket at the front. This could be made in cotton or linen for a more structured shape but would also look great in something drapey. This dress has a fairly simple construction and we’d recommend it for a beginner looking to take on a challenge.

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Sizes UK 8-20 PDF pattern £8.50 www.ninalee.co.uk

Kate

Rachel


NEWS FLINT PANTS Megan Nielsen The Flint Pants are the latest release from Megan Nielsen and are great for summer. The pattern features wide-leg trousers that can be cropped to make shorts. The pattern sits on the natural waist and has a really interesting closure to one side where it is encased in the slash pocket. It terms of the fit, there are release tucks at the front and darts at the back. There are two options for closures with buttons or a tie that sits to one side. This pattern would be good for sewists of all levels.

Sizes US 0-16 PDF pattern $16.50 (approximately £13.20) www.workroomsocial.com

Sizes XS-XL Paper pattern £15.80 www.dragonfly fabrics.co.uk

DRAPE BLOUSE 1001 Workroom Social The Drape Blouse is the debut pattern from Workroom Social. It’s a loosefitting blouse with some lovely features that make it a more challenging project. The top features a boatshaped neckline, back yoke detail with box pleat to add more flair and tailored cuff. This top can work on its own and would look great tucked in too. We’d recommend this top to an intermediate maker and it would look best in a fabric with drape.

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WIDE RANGE OF SIZES

Sizes cup sizes A-DD 30-40 PDF pattern $16.99 (approximately £13.59) www.orange-lingerie.com

FENWAY BRA Orange Lingerie

Sizes UK 18-30 Paper pattern £6.75 www.eclecticmaker.co.uk

B6678 Burda Style If you’re looking for a pair of loose-fitting trousers for summer, the B6678 from Burda is a good option. The pattern features a drawstring waist, making it easier to fit and slash pockets. This pattern could be made out of lightweight cotton but would also look great using something with a bit of drape. We’d recommend this pattern for an advanced beginner.

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If you like to make underwear and you haven’t come across Orange Lingerie, we’d highly recommend checking it out as it has a fantastic pattern range. The Fenway is the latest offering and we really love the unusual design, which was inspired by a baseball! The pattern features an underwire, two-piece lower cup for better fit and a sheer upper cut with fold-over elastic for the trim. We’d recommend this pattern for an intermediate maker.

The Fold Line is an online sewing community with over 10,000 members. The site has a huge pattern database with sewing-specific search function plus wishlist and library profile features to store your favourite patterns. There is also a sewing resources section to inspire your next make and an active forum where you can chat to other sewists. Visit www.thefoldline.com


YOUR

FREE PATTERN VIEW D

Purple

REIGN Bring your free patterns to life with a palette of purples this summer. Soft lilac, vivid violet and regal purple prints alongside casual styling and loose shapes create the perfect combination for warm days ahead

GET THE LOOK

Photography RENATA STONYTE Model CHARLOTTE for BOSS Models Hair and make-up DANNI for Industry

Denim cropped leggings £22, www.next.co.uk

Cream floral linen & viscose-blend dress fabric This 140cm-wide beautiful linen and viscose blend is very soft with a flowing drape. The bright floral design offers a pop of colour and makes it perfect for both casual and smart wear £11.99 per metre

Yellow block-heel sandals £19.50, www.marksandspencer.com

www.minervacrafts.com


“Whatever your shape these loose-fitting summer styles can’t fail to please! With a nod to the cold-shoulder trend, a subtle sleeve split is used in four very wearable styles in your free Butterick pattern, from a simple tunic to a peasant-sleeve button-down blouse. The Simple Sew Cocoon dress is a definite wardrobe filler and easily adaptable for all seasons, depending on your fabric choice. Its perfect for a beginner sewist and its pullon nature means no closures, making it a perfect beach cover-up or summer day dress. Alternatively, dress it up with a sharp print, as we have, for office wear”

Sam

VIEW A

For sizes 16-26, go to www.moremags. com/sn8-b5889 Just £1.99 + P&P

Yellow faux-leather twist-lock bag £25, www.marksandspencer.com

White jeans £36, www.topshop.com

GET THE LOOK

This lightweight, 140cm-wide, slightly sheer, drapey 100% cotton voile features a gorgeous mix of colours in a dashed print £15 per metre www.sewoverit.co.uk


YOUR

FREE PATTERN VIEW A

GET THE LOOK

With its smart uniform pattern, this 112cm-wide medium-weight fabric has a very taut weave and no stretch at all, but is beautifully soft to the touch with a fluid, drapey quality £4.99 per metre www.adamrossfabrics.co.uk

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Faith peep-toe heels £45, www.next.co.uk


S K I LLS C H E C K Simple Sew Cocoon Dress 3 Sewing a V-neck 3 Bias-bound sleeves 3 Sewing a facing 3 In-seam pockets 3 Pattern matching (depending on fabric)

VIEW B

GET THE LOOK

Rose linen cotton blend

Clarks T-bar sandals £50, www.johnlewis.com

This soft, 137cm-wide medium-weight linen/cotton blend has a textured feel and good drape £12.90 per metre www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

Charlotte is 5' 6” and a dress size 8


INSPIRATION

WEAR IT WITH... Make this super summery tunic dress with cold-shoulder detail the sweet spot of your summer wardrobe

QUICK SHOPPING TRIP

Lace jacket £159, www.east.co.uk

FAMILY CELEBRATION Blue metallic textured mules £27.99, www.newlook.com

Twiggy Collection pull-on jeans £25, www.marksandspencer.com Frill-trim denim jacket £44.99, www.newlook.com

Yellow pompom scarf £45, www.east.co.uk Faith sandals £49, www.debenhams.com

FRIDAY NIGHT DRINKS Parrot embroidered bag £55, www.accessorize.com

Biker jacket £55, www.next.co.uk

Wooden bead necklace £19, www.east.co.uk

LAST-MINUTE GETAWAY

Pompom fedora £22, www.oliverbonas.com

Striped mules £25, www.next.co.uk

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Twiggy Collection pink brogues £65, www.marksandspencer.com


I N T E R V I E W

SEWING START UP Turning her love of vintage into a business was the natural step for Andree Holden of Til The Sun Goes Down. We find out how the idea came about and where she finds her inspiration for her beautiful fabric So let’s start at the beginning, what was the inspiration for starting your business? From my teens I’ve loved vintage fashion and dressmaking. I was invited to Goodwood Revival in 2013 and I was really excited to make an outfit to wear to the event. I then discovered how difficult it was finding dressmaking lengths of authentic vintage fabric, and even reproduction seemed impossible to source. The idea of creating a new range of vintage-inspired printed textiles seemed an obvious and exciting idea for a business. I have a degree in

Andree

fashion and textile design, so even though it seemed daunting, after a few months of hesitation Til The Sun Goes Down was launched. Sell your business to us and tell us what makes it special? We’re a unique business offering a range of vintage-inspired dressmaking fabric that we create in house. The fabric is inspired by the styles of the 1920s to 1960s and we stick to natural, authentic fibre such as silk, viscose and cotton as a printing base. The Now & Then paper patterns naturally followed after listening to our customers' requests for the vintage sewing patterns we used to show off our fabric! To add to all this we have an ever-changing collection of genuine vintage fabric lengths and old paper sewing patterns. The envelope designs are so beautiful they’re worth framing – so I do! What are your customers loving right now? Customers seem to love the latest Now & Then range, especially as the patterns go up to size 22. Genuine vintage patterns rarely go up to the bigger sizes, so this makes a lot of ladies very happy. The Beach Pyjamas and Holiday Dress pattern is really popular at the moment for all age groups, and we have kits that contain a pattern, fabric, trim, vintage notions and a Til The Sun Goes Down sew-in label, which works well for busy people. Our prints on pure silk are also very popular as the wedding season

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1930s-style 138cm-wide multicoloured spot on silk crepe de chine £36 per metre

approaches – for special-occasion dresses and vintage-style silk lingerie for brides. When did you start sewing? I started sewing with my mother, grandma and great aunt when I was three or four, sewing little things by hand to begin with and then simple clothes for my dolls. My first proper make was a dress when I was about eight or nine – it wasn’t brilliant but it felt amazing to wear something that I’d made. Have you ever had any sewing disasters? I’ve had lots and lots of disasters along the way but they usually end up being made into something else later. At the beginning my biggest fault was making things too small – that was before I understood about ‘ease’ and how essential


FEATURE

A beautifully drapey, medium-weight 100% viscose fabric in a soft shade £16.80 per metre Beach Pyjamas and Holiday Dress Sizes 8-22 £18

it is to make a toile, or at the very least measure the pattern against yourself before you start to cut out or sew! Any tips could you share with our readers on sewing with vintage fabric? Check if the fabric is strong enough to be worn. Snip a bit off a corner and give it a good pull. If it doesn’t tear you’re good to go. Wash a scrap too, to make sure the colours don’t run, and test that your thread, tension, stitch size and needle is right for the fabric before you sew the real thing. How have you expanded your business? Initially, we only offered our own fabric, followed by genuine vintage and then came the Now & Then patterns. A small range of specially selected retro fabric was added a few years ago to offer a broader price range and allow everyone to enjoy the vintage vibe. And finally, the making kits were added. Where do you find inspiration for your pattern designs? Inspiration comes from all things vintage – clothes, textiles and old black and white films. Vintage handkerchiefs have some of

the most gorgeous designs on them too – I often ‘borrow’ some of the colour combinations. Who are your style icons? Many and varied! Paul Poiret, Fortuny, Schiaparelli, Jean Muir, Biba, Alexander McQueen, Issey Miyake and my mother. What are the best and most challenging things about running your own business? Trying to make sure there’s still time spent designing. It’s so easy to forget what you started out wanting to do. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever received? Stick to what you love and trust yourself. After all, that is what’s unique. What does a typical day in your life look like? A little bit of everything. Package orders first thing and off to the post, then afternoons are for some pattern design or development, followed by toile making and maybe a little sewing. I’m often out to auctions and charity shops on the quest to find more vintage fabric, wonderful old textiles and treasures.

What are your personal favourite fabric brands or collections? A French company called Bianchini-Férier. It went out of business some years ago but its archived designs are wonderful. Sonia Delaunay is inspirational too. Finally, What should we expect to see from you this year? A new range of 1950s-inspired cotton prints and hopefully a small range of nightwear and lingerie sewing patterns by Now & Then.

Visit www.tilthesungoesdown.com to see Andree’s authentic vintage fabric, vintage inspired in-house designs and the Now & Then pattern range

What do you do to relax or take time out? I love drawing, painting and photography. Eating cake is also high up on my hobby list. I have a very naughty dog who pesters me for walks all day, so she’s helps to keep me a little bit fit.

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Day at the

RACES As Ascot relaxes its dress code to accommodate the latest trends, The Wardrobe Angel spells out what to sew for Ladies’ Day

McCall’s 7503 Nicole Miller Misses’ Sleeveless Dresses Sizes 6 -14, 14-22 £8.75 www.weaverdee.com

Words STEPHANIE ROPER www.wardrobeangel.co.uk

T

he dress code at Royal Ascot is ‘formal daywear’, so let’s start with what is strictly off the sartorial menu. Nothing strapless or off the shoulder, no halter necks and no spaghetti straps, nothing sheer, certainly no shorts, and midriffs must be covered. Straps on dresses must be at least an inch wide (preferably covering the whole

shoulder), and dresses must be an appropriate length, falling just above the knee or longer. Now for the exciting part: Royal Ascot relaxed its dress code this year, recognising its customers’ “fashion forward tastes” and now trouser suits and jumpsuits can be worn providing they are full length. And if there was ever a time to don a special piece of headwear, race day is it!

OUTFIT 1 A fit-and-flare dress is great for all figures, especially pear shapes. Hitting the right note in terms of length, the dress has a vintage vibe about it. If you want a hat to complement this drop-dead gorgeous dress, look no further than this 1940s millinery PDF download from Etsy, which provides two basic hat patterns for you to work with.

Party Collection bag £80, www.bimbaylola.com

PDF download £6.96, www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ThingsFound

Tanya by Bundle MacLaren £246, www.boticca.com

Franchesca dress £150, www.phase-eight.co.uk

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Red suedette bow-front heeled sandals £25.99, www.newlook.com


FEATURE

Simplicity 8282 Misses’/Miss Petite Dresses Sizes 6-14, 14-22 £8.95 www.sewessential.co.uk

Butterick 6320 Misses’ Sweetheartneckline Dress and Jumpsuits Sizes 6 -14, 14-22 £7.99 www.craftstash.co.uk

Marcus butterfly jumpsuit £249, www.jigsawonline.com

Ivory bird of paradise tunic dress £45, www.wallis.co.uk

Black barely there heels £35, www.river island.com

OUTFIT 2

OUTFIT 3

As we all know the great British summer can be a bit of a washout, so instead of hauling a pashmina or wrap around with you all day, try a dress with sleeves. If you go for a patterned dress you can patternclash your bag or pull one tone throughout the whole ensemble.

Now that jumpsuits are officially a ‘thing’ at race day, stand out from the pastel-coloured crowds in monochrome. The fluidity of a wide-leg jumpsuit is the perfect contrast to those restrictive bodycon dresses. Just make sure you leave yourself enough time to get to the bathroom!

Cliopatra heel £75, www.dunelondon.com

Rose gold clutch bag £20, www.simplybe.co.uk

Stephanie

Clara fascinator £139, www.pretty eccentric.co.uk

Stephanie Roper is The Wardrobe Angel: an award-winning wardrobe fixer, stylist, fashion brand consultant and blogger. She is passionate about sustainability and getting more wear from your wardrobe. She has also just finished filming her first TV show. For more information, go to www.wardrobeangel.co.uk

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Lazy days

TOP

This loose-fitting bell-sleeve top with faux-button detail is essential packing for a summer break Project ANNA BRUCE www.madeit-patterns.com

Anna

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

GET THE LOOK Seersucker red/pink yarn dyed check 112cm-wide soft seersucker with a gorgeous textured feel in bright pink and red check £6.75 per metre www.stoffstil.co.uk

Skinny jeans £40, www.topshop.com


STYLE LAYPLANS 115cm-wide fabric Unfolded main fabric

90cm-wide fabric Unfolded interlining

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5

6

3

5

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

6

PATTERN PIECES: 1 - Front 2 - Back 3 - Front shoulder 4 - Sleeve 5 - Back facing 6 - Front facing 7 - Front facing

2

4

NOTES: Use a 1cm seam allowance throughout. Cut the Front and Back Facings from interlining, making sure you have the interlining laid out with the wrong side up to cut

Right Front Facing – cut 1 right side up and interlining Left Front Facing – cut 1 right side up and interlining HOW TO MAKE: Iron the interfacing onto the wrong sides of the facing pieces. (See Pic A.)

1

2

Line up the front and back shoulders with right sides together and join with a 1cm seam. Overlock to neaten the raw edge. (See Pic B.) Press the seams towards the back of the garment.

3

Place the front facing pieces to the back facing lining up the shoulders with right sides together and join with a 1cm seam (there is no need to

CUTTING: Front – cut 1 right side up Back – cut 1 on fold Front Shoulder – cut 1 right side up Sleeve – cut 1 pair Back Facing – cut 1 on fold and interlining

150cm-wide fabric Unfolded main fabric

3 4

4

FABRIC TYPES: Light to medium weight cotton, seersucker, cheesecloth, broderie anglaise MATERIALS: •• 1.6m 115cm-wide or 1.45m 150cm-wide fabric •• 0.25m 90cm-wide lightweight iron-on interfacing •• 4 1.5cm diameter buttons •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

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4

1

SKILL LEVEL:

Seersucker has a tendency to shrink so always wash your fabric first. Due to its textured nature, always press your fabric before laying out your pattern pieces to get an accurate cut

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SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

5 6

2

1

A

B

SIZING Body Measures (Inches)

8

10

12

14

16

18

To Fit Bust

32”

34”

36”

38”

40”

42”

To Fit Hip

35½”

37”

39”

41”

43”

45”

Finished Garment (Cm)

8

10

12

14

16

18

Bust

99cm

104cm

109cm

114cm

119cm

124cm

Hem

101cm

106cm

111cm

116cm

121cm

126cm

Back Length Hips To Hem

67.5cm

68cm

68.5cm

69cm

69.5cm

70cm

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overlock these seams as the interfacing will prevent fraying, just press the seams open). (See Pic C.). Overlock to neaten around the bottom edge of the facings. (See Pic C.)

4

Place the facing to the neck edge of the garment with right sides together, lining up the shoulder seams, with the narrow section sitting to the front, pinning to hold in position if necessary. Attach with a 6mm seam all the way around the neck edge then press the seam open. (See Pic D.) Pressing the seam open before carrying out Step 6 will help give a neat and flat finish to the neckline.

Top-stitch around the neck 6mm from the edge. (See Pic F.)

7

Zigzag or overlock the raw edge around the bottom of the shoulder panel. If overlocking, leave a thread tail at the centre front approximately 2.5cm long. (See Pic G.)

8

9

Pin the sleeve head to the armhole with right sides together and attach with a 1cm seam, finish the edge and press the seam towards the cuff. (See Pic J.)

facing, you can download the ‘I MADE IT’ labels free from www.madeit-patterns.com, just print them onto transfer printer paper and iron onto a cotton tape. (See Pic M.)

10

13

Join the side seams by placing the front of the garment on top of the back with right sides together lining up the side seams and underarm seams. Pin to hold in position whilst sewing from hem to cuff on both sides with a 1cm seam. (See Pic K.) Press the seams towards the back of the garment.

Attach four buttons to the mock placket at the neck, making sure you sew through all of the fabric layers so the mock opening does not gape. (See Pic N.)

Turn the facing to the inside of the garment and press around the neck, rolling the facing to the wrong side of the garment slightly, so it doesn’t show on the right side of the neckline. (See Pic E.)

With the garment inside out, lay the shoulder piece onto the front, line up the overlocked/zigzagged edge with the edge of the facing. Pin through all of the fabric layers to hold in position. If you’ve overlocked the shoulder panel, tuck the thread tail under the shoulder panel. Sew through all fabric layers from the centre front neck to the armhole around the bottom edge of the shoulder panel 5mm from the edge. (See pics H and I.)

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

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Madeit Patterns offers fresh and modern clothing patterns for cool kids and stylish adults. Its mission is to take home sewing to the next level and show people how to create slick, professionally finished garments at home. Visit www.madeit-patterns.com

11

Finish the raw edges of the cuffs and body hem. Turn the edges up 1cm to the wrong side of the garment and stitch the hems 6mm away from the folded edge. (See Pic L.)

12

A nice finishing touch is to add a label onto the back


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Grey slippers £8, www.mandco.com

Personalised wooden tie clip £15, www.creategiftlove.co.uk

Wild & Wolf Gentleman’s Hardware Beard Care Kit £34.95, www.blokesbags.co.uk

Best Dad hip flask £14.50, www.tch.net

T-Rex bottle opener £29, www.smithersofstamford.com

FATHER’S DAY gift guide Show him you care this Father’s Day with the perfect gift, or try one of our must-have men’s pattern picks for sewing for Dad Home RP-1 turntable with Bluetooth £40, www.sainsburys.co.uk

Nexus bag £65, www.dune.co.uk Portable barbecue £54.95, www.annabeljames.co.uk

Personalised father definition mug £14.50, www.notonthehighstreet.com Departure lounge washbag £14.95, www.dotcomgiftshop.com

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INSPIRATION

Pattern picks

FOR HIM FAIRFIELD SHIRT £15 www.backstitch.co.uk You just can’t go wrong with this classic button-up shirt from Thread Theory with a modern, moderately slim fit. The slim collar with collar stand, an optional chest pocket, flat felled seams and a yoke makes it ideal for any man’s style.

Stripe shirting cotton dress fabric, £3.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

MCCALL’S 7486 £8.75 www.sewdirect.com These men’s raglan sleeve tops and drawstring pants are perfect for all body shapes. The pattern includes five designs, including slim-fit pullover with stylish contrast panels.

Plait in ochre organic sweatshirt knit £12 per half metre www.jellyfabrics.co.uk

VOGUE 8890 £13 www.sewdirect.com Men’s jacket, shorts and trousers – sew him something a little special, or opt for a bright main fabric with subdued tones for a comfortable pair of shorts for the summer.

AUDEN CARDIGAN £12.85 www.jenniferlaurenvintage.com We love the subtle 1950s influences that shine through this traditional cardigan silhouette, and can be made smart of casual for any occasion. It's deceptively quick to make and you might find you want to make one for yourself!

NICO RAGLAN TEES €10 (APPROXIMATELY £8.35) www.jalie.com Designed to be fitted or slouchy, this raglan pattern gives you the chance to inject fun and colour into a wardrobe without overpowering the top, and includes three sleeve lengths and a straight or curved hem.

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INSPIRATION

1

2

4

Printed trousers £39, www.laredoute.com

George floral-print kimono £14, www.direct.asda.com

SHOP IT OR SEW IT

Sunshine means breaking out the florals, and that doesn’t just apply to dresses! 30

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Orange floral-print flared-sleeve playsuit £19.99, www.newlook.com

1. Sew Over it Kimono Jacket Sizes XS-XL £7.50 www.sewoverit.co.uk

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2. 20033 Stoff and Stil Sizes 6-18 £4.75 www.stoffstil.co.uk

Matthew Williamson dress £150, www.debenhams.com

3. McCall’s 7577 Misses’ Cross-Bodice Romper, Jumpsuit and Belt Sizes 8-14, 14-22 £8.75 www.sewdirect.com

4. Vogue 9238 Misses Cold-shoulder, Flounce Top, Dress and Bootcut Trousers Sizes 6-14 14-22 £11.99 www.sewessential.co.uk


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BEFORE

Palazzo pants to

PENCIL SKIRT Quick and simple, this pants to pencil skirt project proves refashioning doesn’t have to be complicated Project CARISSA BROWNING

AFTER


REFASHION SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• Palazzo pants or bootcut jeans (ensure the fabric is not tight fitting around the thighs) HOW TO MAKE: Carefully cut up the inseam as close to the seam as possible. (See Pic A.)

1

Jenny “FOLLOW THIS SEASON’S TREND AND ADD AN EMBROIDERED MOTIF TO THE SKIRT“

2

With the trousers inside out, fold so the side seams are held together. Sew the front centre seam straight down from the bottom end of the zip and trim away the excess fabric. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or overlocker. (See Pic B.)

Carissa

A

D

“Make sure you press the side and front seams nice and flat. Use a tailor’s ham if you have one”

3 4

Repeat for the back centre seam. (See Pic C.)

Cut the legs to the desired length of the skirt, plus 5cm for hemming. (See Pic D.)

5

Fold the bottom edge up 2cm, then another 3cm, and top-stitch to finish the hem. (See Pic E.)

B

www.carissaknits.com is a little corner of the internet where Carissa explores all manner of crafts. There you’ll find her sewing inexpensive thrift shop finds into fabulous new frocks, knitting up a new shawl, cross-stitching a fresh bit of kitsch for her home, reviewing the latest addition to her craft book collection, and all sorts of other crafty goodness!

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I N T E R V I E W

CRAFT IN THE

community We chat to Stacie Madden about her exciting SEWMANCE events and her commitment to social and sustainable sewing

Contact people online to ask for advice or find a blog that will tell you step by step how to achieve your dream. If there is someone you think could help you or someone you admire in the sewing world, get in touch. Don't be afraid, we are all part of an amazing supportive sewing community that wants to help each other.

Bringing sewists together

Tell us a little bit about SEWMANCE SEWMANCE Festival is a unique, independent community sewing festival in Brighton dedicated to bringing sewists together to explore their love of sewing, with a little cake too! This is the third SEWMANCE event and definitely our most exciting! We have a fabulous line up of #sewingstories from the likes of Gabby Young @gabberdashery, Frances Tobin @themakersatelier and Ana Valls @cocowawacrafts. Plus, there will be lots of amazing exhibitors to meet and workshops to get involved in.

Stacie

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What inspired you to start the events? I visited a large craft fair in London last year. It felt so soulless and was all about the big sell. I really wanted to attend a communitybased sewing festival that was open to all and about the experience rather than just handing over money to buy stuff I didn't need. I couldn't find this event so I created it. Our Brighton sewing bee community agreed and it felt like natural progression from the sewing bee events. Do you have any advice for anyone looking to start similar events in their area? It’s hard work and you really need to be passionate about what you are doing and know why you are doing it. So sort out your goals and manifesto and get networking!

SEWMANCE is very supportive of charities. How do you combine sewing and helping others? SEWMANCE Festival offers a free exhibitor space to a local charity. This time it is bloggers The Revival Collective, which organises the Ethical and Sustainable Fashion Group in Brighton. Founded by three graduates of the University of Sussex, the group works to raise awareness of the ecological and ethical impacts of the fashion, beauty and lifestyle industries. You can find out more at www.therevivalcollective.com.


INTERVIEW

What are your top tips for sewing for charity? There is always someone in need and a sewing project to get involved in. Ask at your local sewing or quilting groups for information. If you find a cause you are passionate about contact the charity and organise an event yourself. Make sure you are sewing something you want to sew and for a charity that you care about. Get a group of you together, add cake and lots of laughter to make it as enjoyable as possible.

“WE ARE ALL PART OF AN AMAZING SUPPORTIVE SEWING COMMUNITY THAT WANTS TO HELP EACH OTHER“

One of my lovely friends Nicky Eglinton told me about the amazing Project Linus. I am currently making a quilt for this fabulous cause. Learn more about the charity at www.projectlinusuk.org.uk Sustainability is another important cause for SEWMANCE. How can crafters keep their hobby environmentally friendly? At our sewing bee we have monthly #fabricswaps. Everyone brings in pre-loved fabrics and sewing-related items to swap for something more suited to their style and needs. Always ask yourself what you will make with a new fabric and will you wear it before buying it. Try upcycling and refashioning to give your wardrobe a new lease of life.

To find out more about Stacie, Summer SEWMANCE and SEWCYCLE, head to www.sewmance.co.uk You like to encourage sewists to share their #sewingstories on Instagram. What's your sewing story? I was actually allergic to sewing before I had my son Sebastian. I had decided to leave my previous career in nursing to be my son's primary carer. Whilst battling with postnatal depression I suddenly felt a strong urge to learn to sew and make my clothes. I needed to use my hands, to make and to be creative. I enrolled on a 'Getting to know your sewing machine' class with Sara Cook at the Friends Centre in Brighton and fell in love with sewing. I then went on to complete Level 1 and 2 Fashion and Dressmaking City and Guilds qualifications and am currently finishing the Level 3 Pattern Cutting module with my lovely tutor Julia Hincks.

Sewing gave me back my confidence. It allowed me to come out of a really bad place and gave me another reason to get out of bed. I owe so much to that little needle and thread. When I started the Brighton sewing bee group in August 2014 I could never have imagined I would meet all the wonderful inspiring and supportive individuals that I now have the pleasure to call my friends. What can we look forward to from you over the next few months? As well as our Summer SEWMANCE in June, I’m also working on a new textile recycling initiative called SEWCYCLE, which is dedicated to saving fabric and sewingrelated items from going to landfill through monthly #sewcyclesales.

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C CR RO OF FT T M M II LL LL

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15A, Blyburgate, Beccles, Suffolk NR34 9TB 01502 714234

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A dress made from Angeline’s favourite fabric haul all the way from Hong Kong

Sewing for

summer

Angeline Murphy explains why summer is her favourite time to sew, and suggests some great patterns and fabric to get you started

S

Angeline

ummer has arrived early for me, When I was constructing the children’s as I’m writing this article whilst cape on the show I added a godet and sunbathing in Lanzarote! My bow to the back. Patrick Grant asked why surroundings always influence my all the detail was at the back, to which sewing and when I’m on holiday I seek I replied, “Always make an impression as out local fabric stores for inspiration. At you walk away.” He laughed, but I won the moment the Spanish fabric stores are the garment of the week award, and it is full of beautiful lightweight chiffon and a style statement that I live by. Changing cotton – perfect for a sunny summer Patrick’s opinion on my design was one of wardrobe! One of my favourite holiday my greatest achievements on the show. hauls was in Hong Kong where I spent He doubted the design sketches but a week before travelling to Shenzhen in loved the end product. It’s always nice mainland China in search of more fabric! to surprise! My advice for your summer The streets were lined wardrobe is to add with haberdasheries. I detail to the back – filled an extra suitcase leave it open, add “SAY GOODBYE TO and ended up sending a lace insert instead THE HEAVY FABRIC the remainder by post! of fabric or replace OF WINTER AND an invisible zip with a LOOK FORWARD TO chunky visible one. Summer is undoubtedly DESIGNING SIZZLING my favourite season for sewing. It’s a time Working with SUMMER STYLES“ when I say goodbye lightweight fabric, to the heavy fabric especially chiffon, of winter and look forward to designing can be daunting, but employing the right sizzling summer styles. My latest project techniques can help achieve a couture is an outfit to be worn at the wedding finish. My summer bridesmaids’ dresses of a certain major-winning Northern were made with a chiffon skirt overlay. The Irish golfer. It is set to be a very stylish fabric is slippery and seams are visible so event and I am tasked with stitching an it’s important to have the couture finish. outfit that is demure with a sexy twist. When cutting chiffon it is best to lay it I have chosen to do a pattern hack, on brown paper and cut – it makes it using Butterick B6130, by adding a lace much easier to work with. When finishing waistband, back panels and a cowl neck. chiffon seams I always use a French seam, The jumpsuit is bang on trend this season where you sew wrong sides together, trim after Michelle Keegan rocked this style at the seam allowance and sew right sides the BRIT Awards. together, enclosing the raw seam in the outer seam to create a beautiful finish. Summer is the perfect time for feminine makes, and my signature designs, as you Embrace the sun and all the floral fabric may remember from The Great British that is around now by creating styles Sewing Bee, always include back detail. that show off your femininity!

Always make an impression as you walk away!

Get started with your summer sewing

Jumpsuits are bang on trend this season

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Super-useful

GYM STORAGE KIT Make exercise a pleasure rather than a chore with this gym storage kit featuring a zipped bag with water bottle holder, lined shoe bag and mini towels Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

GET THE LOOK Fabric A: Droppar Burst Fabric B: Unn Cross Pine Fabric D: Liten Ditsy Whisper All Heartland collection by Pat Bravo for Art Gallery Fabrics

Fabric A

Fabric B

Fabric D

For details and stockists information, visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf

Fabric C: Cool Foliage Art Gallery Fabrics Denim Studio collection

Fabric C

Apple green mesh fabric is available from www.sewhot.co.uk


ACCESSORY SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• fat quarter Droppar Burst (fabric A) •• 60cm Unn Cross Pine for lining (fabric B) •• 50cm Cool Foliage plus an extra fat quarter for binding (fabric C) •• fat quarter green mesh fabric •• 50cm Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing •• 12cm square Vlieseline G740 fusible woven interfacing •• 46cm heavy-duty zipper •• 18cm grey zipper •• ribbon scraps for back zipper pulls •• small amount bright gold faux leather bias tape for tab (optional) •• 3 grey #20 Kam snaps •• co-ordinating thread FINISHED SIZE: 141/2" wide x 10" high x 3" deep NOTES: Seam allowances 0.5cm unless otherwise stated The front has a slightly gathered mesh pocket for a water bottle, applied using pre-made bias tape. CUTTING: For the gym bag back, cut: 40x30cm fabric C 22x40cm fabric B for the zipper pocket lining For the gym bag front, cut: 40x30cm fabric C piece 35x15cm mesh fabric piece

For the lining cut: 2 40x30cm fabric B pieces 2 20x15cm mesh fabric pieces TO MAKE THE BIAS: Two sort of bias are required – a straight bias for the pocket top and a curved bias tape for the pocket curved section. To make the pocket binding cut 4cmwide strips on the bias and then join them together to form a long strip. Fold in half lengthways and press and then fold the raw edges in and press them too. To make straight binding, do the same thing but on the straight of grain. Cut the following lengths: 30cm fabric A cut on the grain line (straight) and 110cm cut on the bias (curved) 50cm fabric C cut on the grain line and 60cm cut on the bias Two bias widths are needed – wide for the pocket tops and narrow for the pocket bottom curve. To make a narrower tape, simply bring in the raw edges in of the lower pieces and press. HOW TO MAKE: Remove the metal stopper from the zip. Make a sewn stopper (See Pic A.)

1 2

From fabric A cut a 5cm wide x 12cm long piece and a piece of G740 interfacing the same size. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Fold the interfaced fabric in half to make

a little bag and sew the sides (use a small stitch so it doesn’t unravel). Trim the bottom edges near the fold to reduce bulk. (See Pic B.) Turn the right way out and push the raw edge in to make a square.

3

To make the back zipper pocket, turn the piece of fabric B to the wrong side and make a vertical centre crease. Measure down 3cm from one short edge and mark a box 18cm long x 1cm deep. (See Pic C.) This is the sewing line.

4

Mark a second line with two angled lines each end down the centre. (See Pic D.) This is the cutting line.

5

Make a vertical crease in the centre of the denim panel too and then line the two creases up with the top of the pocket 2cm down from the top of the denim. Pin with the right sides together. Sew around the sewing line and cut along the cutting line. (See Pic E.) ‘Post’ the lining through the hole and smooth out on the other side.

6

Top-stitch the zip in on the lining side. Bring the long flappy section of pocket lining up and align the two short edges. Sew the sides and top to complete the pocket. Attach the ribbon scrap through the zipper pull. Press the back panel and then attach it to a slightly larger piece of Style-Vil with a half normal seam. Trim back the foam interfacing.

A

B

C

D

E

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7

Round the two bottom corners of the mesh with a coffee cup. Gather the mesh fabric on the top and the bottom so that it is about 25cm wide. Gather between the curved corners on the bottom edge. The fullness will fit a water bottle better. Bind the top edge with the straight binding made from fabric A. (See Pic F.)

12

Attach the denim panel to a slightly larger piece of Style-Vil. (See Step 6.) Trim away any extra.

Place the front and the back right sides together and sew the sides and bottom. Cut a 3cm square from both bottom corners. Measure your squares to be cut from the seam rather than the edge of the fabric. (See Pic J.) Box the bottom. Do exactly the same for the lining but this time, leave a gap in the lining base for turning out later.

9

13

8

Site the mesh pocket in the very centre of the interfaced denim panel 4cm down from the top edge. Pin it on and then take the bias tape made from the denim fabric and pin it over the edge of the mesh, completely catching the raw edges. Top-stitch into place with co-ordinating thread on both sides of the tape and going through all layers. (See Pic G.) Attach a Kam snap to the middle of the mesh pocket. (See Pic H.)

10

Bind the top with denim straight binding on both. Round off the bottom corners of the pockets.

11

Find the centre of one lining panel with a crease vertically and find the centre of the pocket. Pin the pocket to the lining 4.5cm down from the top. As you did for the front pocket, use the bias binding to attach the pocket. (See Pic I).

“ADD A PROFESSIONAL TOUCH BY FEATURING A GOLD TAG IN THE SIDE SEAM OF YOUR SHOE BAG OR UNDER THE BINDING OF YOUR TOWEL“

I

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Repeat this for the other pocket on the other piece of lining. Add a Kam snap to stop the pocket from sagging.

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Open the zip out as fully as possible and pin it onto the top edge of the bag, allowing the excess to hang naturally at the right-hand side. Tuck the tape ends on the opening end to the side and they will disappear into the seam. Sew the zip 1cm from the left hand side and stop 1cm from the right.

14

With the bag outer the right way out and the lining inside out, pull the lining on over the outer and match seams and details up. Pin the lining at the top and sew the top, sandwiching the zip neatly between. Turn out through the gap in the lining and then close the gap. Top-stitch around the zip too to keep the lining down. Attach the tab to the zip end and sew it on with a topstitch. (See Pic K.) Thread the remaining piece of ribbon through the zipper pull.

Handy mini

GYM TOWELS SKILL LEVEL:

MATERIALS: •• fat quarter Liten Ditsy Whisper (fabric D) •• fat quarter Cool Foliage (fabric C) •• citrus lemon or green large bath towel •• small amount of gold faux leather bias binding for tabs CUTTING: Cut the following: 32cm square towel fabric 35x55cm towel fabric HOW TO MAKE: Round the corners with a suitable object such as a teacup. (See Pic L.)

1 2

From the fat quarters, make 3.5cm-wide bias binding to go around the edges of the towels. You will need approximately 1.5m for the small and 2m for the larger towel. Use the gym bag bias tape instructions to make these.

3

Cut two pieces of faux leather binding (about 5cm) and fold in half. Decide where you want the tab to be and tack it into position. (See Pic M.) Bind the edge of the towel on the front by machine. (See Pic N.) Finish the back by hand. Repeat for the other towel.

Jenny G

H

J

K


ACCESSORY

L

Lined

SHOE BAG SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 50cm Cool Foliage (fabric A) •• 50cm Unn Cross Pine for lining (fabric B) •• 20cm strip Liten Ditsy Whisper for drawstring (fabric C) •• co-ordinating thread •• small piece bright gold faux leather binding for a tab (optional) CUTTING: Cut the following: 2 40x35cm pieces fabric C 2 40x35cm pieces fabric B 4 33x10cm pieces fabric D (lined casings for the drawstring) 1mx5cm fabric D piece (drawstring)

M

HOW TO MAKE: Measure the length of your shoes. The pattern allows for some ease, but if you need a more space, add upwards in 5cm increments to the starting rectangles. To make the drawstring, fold the fabric strip in half lengthways, press and then fold the two raw edges to the centre crease. (See Pic O.) You are effectively making straight binding.

1

2

With co-ordinating thread, stitch along both sides right along the length of the strap. (See Pic P.) Tie a knot in one end and trim. (See Pic Q.)

3

Place the two pieces of fabric A right sides together and sew the sides and bottom. Mark a 3cm square in the bottom corners and cut it out. Box the corners. Repeat for the two pieces of lining, leaving a 10cm turning gap in the side seam.

N

4

To make the casings, take two rectangles and place the right sides together. Sew the end seams only. (See Pic R.) Turn the right way out and press. Fold in half so that all of the raw edges are together and trim. Repeat for the other side.

5

With the raw edges uppermost, attack one casing to the front and one to the back of the outer.

6

Turn the outer the right way out and the lining inside out and slip the lining on over the top of the outer and line the side seams up. Pin and sew around the top, leaving no gaps. Turn out through the gap in the lining and close the gap. Stuff the lining down into the bag and top-stitch the top edge with co-ordinating thread. Thread the drawstring through the casing and knot the other end. Trim.

O

P

Q

R

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The pattern

REVIEW

With her keen eye for style, blogger Hila Wiling sews up the Anneli dress from Named's Playground collection, and it doesn’t disappoint Words HILA WILING www.saturdaynightstitch.com

E

veryone loves T-shirt dresses, and I’m no exception. Named’s latest offering from its SS17 Playground collection is the Anneli doublefront dress. The pattern includes two variations – a straight, ankle-length jersey dress and a casual T-shirt. The packaging screams ‘exclusive brand’ and you certainly get what you pay for with this incredibly well-drafted pattern. The instructions and sizing are excellent, making it easily achievable as a first time project. All the seams line up beautifully; even the neckband snaps perfectly flat against my body. Super quick to sew up, it took only an hour and a half from start to finish, with

no alterations at all. The double-layered front, which creates an interesting wrap effect, gives it uniqueness and makes it perfect for the warmer days of spring and summer. If I had to describe the Milano jersey fabric in one word, it would be ‘delicious’! Verdant in colour and lush in texture, this gorgeous fabric is reminiscent of Pantone’s colour of the year, Greenery. It feels soft and luxurious next to the skin. Minimalist with a directional edge, Anneli is effortlessly stylish and easy to wear dress. I pair it with hoop earrings, a chunky bracelet and thong sandals, and love that I can stay warm with an oversized baggy sweater and still look good. I can get sporty with a denim jacket and trainers, go bohemian with a statement necklace and a floppy hat, or throw on some cute flats for a more polished look… the possibilities are numerous with this dress.  Named understands the appeal of T-shirt dresses. They are comfortable to wear, and when we feel comfortable we feel confident. Anneli ticks many boxes for me; it is fashionable, feels good to wear and is quick to sew. Definitely a new favourite!

Want to go short and sharp? Sew up the T-shirt with less than 2m of fabric

Anneli Double Layer Dress & Tee Named Clothing Paper pattern £16 Sizes UK 4-22 (EUR 32-50) www.backstitch.co.uk

GET THE LOOK Emerald Milano viscose jersey Soft and luxurious next to the skin, this 150cm-wide viscose jersey is perfect for T-shirts, tops and dresses £10 per metre www.fabric godmother.co.uk

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Fly away

CLUTCH

Stand out from the crowd with this feather-print panel cross-body handbag with detachable strap Project VICTORIA PEAT

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Victoria


ACCESSORIES SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 25cm faux leather vinyl •• 50cm 44”-wide main fabric •• 50cm 44”-wide lining fabric •• 40cm medium-weight iron-on interfacing •• 50cm 36”-wide fusible fleece •• 14” open-ended zip •• glue stick •• fabric glue •• sewing clips •• thread for topstitching •• awl •• hand-sewing needle with large eye for top-stitching •• free templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk FINISHED SIZE: 12x9” (excluding length of strap) NOTES: All seam allowances are 1cm unless otherwise stated CUTTING: From the main fabric, cut: Upper back and flap piece From the faux leather vinyl, cut: Lower back piece

Front piece 2 zip facing strips Zip tab piece From the lining fabric, cut: Lining back and flap piece Slip pocket piece Front piece From the medium-weight iron-on interfacing, cut: Upper back and flap piece Lining back and flap piece Lower back piece Slip pocket piece Front piece From the fusible fleece, cut: Upper back and flap interlining piece Lower back interlining piece Front interlining piece HOW TO MAKE: Apply medium-weight interfacing to the relevant pattern pieces. Apply fusible fleece to the wrong side of the outer bag pieces (not the lining). Place centrally on the wrong side of the main bag pieces (on top of interfacing), leaving a ½” gap on each of the outer edges. Carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions for successful application.

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To construct the outer bag, begin with right sides together and sew the lower back to the upper back and flap piece. Press seam allowance towards upper back piece. From the right side, top-stitch the upper back and flap to seam allowance a few mm from the seam. (See Pic A.)

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With right sides together, sew the back and flap to the front along the sides and lower edge. (See Pic B.) Trim the seam allowance at the corners. Press open the side seam allowances as far as possible. Turn

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the bag through to the right side, pushing out the corners carefully.

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With right sides together, fold the pocket to make a rectangle that measures 7½x5½”. Sew around the three open sides, leaving a 3” gap for turning on the long edge. Trim seam allowances and clip corners. (See Pic C.)

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Turn through to the right side, carefully push out the corners, turn in the seam allowance in the gap left for turning and press carefully.

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Position pocket on the right side of the lining back and flap, 2½” from the lower raw edge and 3½” in from each side. Ensure that the folded edge of the rectangle is at the top of the pocket. Top-stitch in place close to the edges. Back-stitch at the top corners of the pocket. (See Pic D.)

Position one zip facing strip over the zipper tape. The lower edge should sit 8” up from the lower edge of the lining. Secure in place with a slick of glue stick. Top-stitch in place a couple of mm from each of the long raw edges. When you get to the end of the zipper tape, make sure that the excess is pulled up and out of the way of the zip facing strip. (See Pic F.)

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To insert the zip, start on the back lining first. Open the zip and place one half

Hold glued sections in place with sewing clips

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of the zip face down on the lining. The long edge of the zipper tape should sit ¾” from the top of the pocket and 8¼” from the lower edge of the lining. The start of the zipper teeth should be 1½” in from the right-hand side of the lining raw edge. Fold the end of the zipper tape downwards. Baste the zipper tape in place along the lower edge of the tape, stopping 2” from the left-hand side of the lining raw edge. (See Pic E.)

Repeat the previous steps with the lining front and the other half of the zip, however in reverse. The start of the zipper teeth should be 1½” from the lefthand side of the lining raw edge and you need to stop basting the zipper tape 2” in from the right-hand side of the lining front. (See Pic G.)

“REMEMBER TO USE A LEATHER NEEDLE FOR THE TABS AND FLAP“

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Before you sew the second zip facing strip in place, do up the zipper to make sure that you have positioned it correctly and that the side seams and base of the ling match up correctly. Adjust if necessary.

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To finish the lining, place the two lining pieces right-sides together, matching the zip facing strips on the side seams. Sew together around the three sides, leaving a 5” gap at the bottom for turning through later. Make sure that the end of the zipper tape is pulled out of the way and not trapped in the side seam.

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Trim the seam allowance at the corners. Press the side seam allowance open as far as possible. Leave the lining with the wrong side outermost. Do not turn through.

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ACCESSORIES

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Close the zip so that the puller is at the top of the zip. Trim 1½” from the end where the stopper is. Apply glue to the vinyl zip tab piece and wrap over the end of the zip, folding in the edges of the zipper tape so that they sit inside the tab. Hold in place with sewing clips until the glue is dry. (See Pic H.) Edge-stitch around the outside edges of the tab. (See Pic I.)

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To construct the bag, have the main body of the bag right side out, with the lining wrong side out. Slip the main body of the bag inside the lining, right sides together. Sew around the raw edges, pivoting at the corners.

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Trim the seam allowance at the corners of the flap and snip into the corner where the flap starts. (See Pic J.)

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Turn the bag through to the right side, pushing out corners of the flap and ensuring that the seam around the opening of the bag sits evenly on the edge. Secure with sewing clips. (See Pic K.)

Top-stitch in place around the flap and the bag opening a few mm from the edge. (See Pic L.)

GET THE LOOK

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To close the lining, pull the lining out of the bag. Turn under the seam allowance of the gap you left for turning and sew through all layers a few mm from the folded edge. To attach the shoulder strap, dab some glue to the centre of the back of the D-ring tabs and position over the side seam of the bag. Hold in place with some large sewing clips or pegs until the glue is dry. (See Pic M.) Sew in place by hand with topstitching thread. You may want to piece through the holes in the tab and through the body of the bag with an awl to make it easier to get the hand-sewing needle through. (See Pic N.)

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Feathers on Sand and Dream Swirls on Sand To Catch a Dream collection from Lewis and Irene For stockist details, visit www.lewisandirene.com

Walnut flame-retardant faux leather (vinyl), £11.25 per metre www.fabric-online.co.uk

Clip on the shoulder straps to finish.

Brown/silver leather bag strap with sew-on tabs, £14 www.bag-clasps.co.uk Vlieseline H 640 iron-on fusible volume fleece, £11.99 per metre White Vlieseline H250 light-medium firm iron-on fusible interfacing lining £4.99 per metre Both available from www.minervacrafts.com

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Fashion first Do you dream of seeing your designs on the rails? The world of fashion can seem intimidating to a new designer, but it doesn’t have to be thanks to the support of Fashion Capital by BETHANY ARMITAGE

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ritish fashion is thriving, and is home to some of the most-recognised and innovative designers in the world. And if you’ve got the creative ambition and aren’t afraid of hard work then why not join them and create your own garments and accessories? No matter what stage you’re at, there’s a lot to learn, but with the support of industry experts, mentors and resources from Fashion Capital you can make that dream a reality. Fashion Capital aims to appeal to new, indie and established designers, providing vital resources and assistance from the very beginnings of fabric appreciation; how to design, develop and grade samples; production; protecting designs and navigating contracts; how to generate sales and PR and the nitty gritty of running a successful and sustainable business. Through the notfor-profit sister company Fashion Enter, you can also learn and develop your skills. One of the biggest barriers to getting your garments on the shelves is a lack of construction and sewing knowledge, while your design might be up to your home-sewing standards, it may not be fit for mass production! Thankfully, there are free courses from expert tutors and a fantastic range of resources available to help get your skills up to scratch.

Fabric choices Garment design

The Fashion Studio offers dedicated facilities for pattern making, grading, sampling and small production runs and, for larger runs, there is The Factory, run by Fashion Capital founder Jenny Holloway. Based in Haringey, north London, The Factory manufactures up to 7,500 units a week and caters for clients such as ASOS, M&S and John Lewis. Employing a team of talented machinists and cutters, it celebrates premium British manufacturing and invites production enquiries from anyone looking to order 300 or more garments. Not for the feint hearted, but once your business is up and running this could be a fantastic option for designers who want to support and promote British manufacturing.

Sampling Product development

Production Protect your designs

G R O W Y O U R BU SI N E SS 48

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PR

Generate sales

Manage your money


FEATURE We caught up with Jenny Holloway, founder of Fashion Capital, to find out more about her inspirations, ambitions and advice for new designers Tell us a little about your career to date… I wish I could say I’ve always loved fashion and as a child I dreamt of being a buyer or designer but that’s just not the case! I wanted riding stables! I fell into fashion by going to an interview at Littlewoods. I thought it was for a marketing position as my degree was business studies but it was actually for a buyer’s assistant. It showed I’m good at thinking on my feet! I have worked in the fashion industry for over 35 years, which makes me feel old! I progressed to being an Assistant Buyer for Littlewoods, then Selector for M&S and senior buyer for the Arcadia Group before opening my own label, Retro. In April 2006 I incorporated Fashion Enter, an awardwinning social enterprise that employs over 100 people, but I’m blessed with fantastic staff and I just love them! Fashion Enter now has a successful factory, Fashion Studio for start-ups and top brands such as Matthew Williamson and Huntsman, and Fashion Technology Academy for skills training. What made you set up Fashion Capital? The thousands of designers that leave university each year with a design-led degree but without the business acumen, knowledge of the real industry and technical skills to successfully run their own label. Before I established Fashion Enter I was a mentor and business consultant for a government initiative to support new and emerging designers; when that funding stopped in 2006 I was compelled to set up Fashion Enter as a not-for-profit social enterprise continuing that support for new designers.

How can it help new designers? For a new designer, setting up their own label can be a very daunting and lonely process. We offer one-toone business mentoring to discuss business strategy, target market, range planning, price points and much more, we also host seminars and workshops with leading industry experts offering invaluable advice on topics such as fabric appreciation, the importance of intellectual property and copyright and how to do your own PR. We stress the importance of technical skills and the ability to construct a garment or understand basic pattern cutting so at our Fashion Technology Academy we offer a Stitching Academy and pattern-cutting course. We sell fabric at wholesale prices at the factory and via the www.fcfabricstudio.com. Once a designer is ready, our Fashion Studio is on hand to offer sampling and short production runs with advice on the initial concept to patterns and grading right through to the finished sample. How do you think the UK can compete with production overseas? UK production can be competitive and our factory in north London, producing thousands of units a week for ASOS and M&S, proves it can work. We are ethical and this is a huge factor in persuading clients to work with us. They are able to monitor their production and, because we are so reactive, styles can be changed almost immediately. With the rise in transport costs and increased wages overseas the cost is not always cheaper abroad, also Brexit has seen an increased interest from larger retailers. What advice would you give to anyone thinking of designing their own clothing? Do your research and learn how to construct a basic garment. If you can do this your designs will be more viable and you will be able to communicate with your manufacturer more efficiently saving yourself time and money. Roll up your sleeves and get to work, you need gritty determination. But remember, we're here to help you, that’s why we are a social enterprise.

JE N N Y ’S TOP TI PS FO R WA N N A BE D E SI G N E R S •• Think small end, up big... •• Turnover is vanity, profit is reality, cash flow is sanity •• Be able to look at yourself in the mirror each day. This is business and you need good moral fibre and ethics •• Listen to your intuition •• Honesty really is the best policy •• Feel the fear but do it anyway

Find out more about Fashion Capital and Fashion Enter at www.fashioncapital.co.uk Fashion Capital is hosting trunk shows around the UK, lifting the lid on the inner workings of the fashion industry with three-hour seminars from leading voices in every stage of design, construction, production, business and PR. To find out more about upcoming events, email jenni@fashioncapital.co.uk

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STYLE files

Standout styles we would love to wear or make

A gorgeous take on a V-neck top

Simplicity and sophistication often go hand in hand, and this beautifully clean-lined Hoya blouse from French pattern company Deer and Doe embodies both. It has a mock wrap boxy shape with a front lapel that tapers toward the waist. Make it in crisp cotton for a classic look and opt for the three-quarter sleeves with tabs to provide a casual look or wear with rolled up khakis for chic summer styling Hoya blouse, ÂŁ15, UK sizes 6-18 www.mauds-fabric-finds.com. See the full range of Deer and Doe patterns at shop.deer-and-doe.fr


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Piped seat pad Combine classic prints with contrast piping to create a striking seat pad cover that looks great indoors and out Project DORLING KINDERSLEY

Adapted from Cushions, Curtains and Blinds Step by Step, £12.99 published by DK. Available from www.dk.com


HOME SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• main fabric •• contrasting fabric for piping •• calico for pattern •• invisible zip •• co-ordinating thread •• piping cord •• 5cm-thick foam pad •• tailor’s chalk •• sewing gauge

seat and leaving 8cm of piping unattached at the start, pin piping to one of the seat pieces. Align piping raw edge with neatened edge of the seat fabric. Cut notches in seam allowance around curves. Sew the piping to the fabric, leaving 8cm of piping unstitched at the end. (See Pic B.)

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HOW TO MAKE: Drape the calico over the chair seat, then smooth it out and over the edges. Use tailor’s chalk to mark the perimeter of the seat on the fabric. Mark the position of the two uprights (chair stiles) chair side of each. This is where ties will be attached.

Lay the cut ends of the piping on top of each other, then cut the piping case to give a 4cm overlap. Open out the end of the piping casing, pull piping cord out of the way, and hold ends with wrong side of each facing you. Leaving the left-hand end where it is, twist the right-hand end away from you so the right side of the casing faces you. Holding the ends in this position, overlap them, left over right, so short end of left-hand piece lines up with the long edge of the right-hand piece, and corners align. Pin from top to bottom, as shown. (See Pic C.) Machinestitch the two ends together horizontally across over the pin. Remove pin and trim raw seam edges to 1cm.

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NOTES: Use the calico pattern you make in the instructions to cut your foam pad. Simply trim off the seam allowance, draw around the pattern piece and cut out along the line A 1.5cm seam allowance is used throughout unless otherwise stated

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Remove pattern and fold in half to check symmetry. Lay it flat on the work surface and use a sewing gauge and tailor’s chalk to mark points 2cm from seat perimeter and join to form the cutting line. It allows for a 1.5cm seam allowance and 5mm for ease, so fabric can be wrapped around seat pad. Cut out pattern. (See Pic A.)

With casing opened out, overlap ends of piping cord and cut level. Tuck the cord end inside casing, bring raw edges

of casing together and machinestitch closed. (See Pic D.)

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Cut a long 6cm-wide strip. Fold in half lengthways, wrong sides facing. Press. Open out and fold raw edges into the centre fold. Press again. Cut into two equal lengths. (See Pic E.)

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Fold ties RST in opposite direction, with raw edges pointing away from you. Pinch ends together, matching folded edges. Sew across each short end with a 1cm seam allowance. Turn right side out and tuck in ends. Pin long edges of each tie closed, then top-stitch, including ends.

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Lay top of the seat pad right side up. Fold each tie in half and place the fold over the notches that mark the uprights, aligning folded tie edge with raw edges of seat pad and piping. Lay ends of the tie on top of seat pad, and slightly pull apart, creating a ‘v’. Machine-stitch across this with seam allowance. (See Pic F.)

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With zip face down and open, centre one side between the ties. Position teeth right on top of piping. Fold back loose end of zip tape and pin at 3cm intervals. Stitch in place.

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Fold the bottom of the seat pad in half, then in half again and mark the half and quarter points with pins. Repeat for top of seat pad.

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Lay bottom of the seat pad right side up and lay top, with zip attached, right side down. Centre the other side of the zip between notches on bottom of seat pad. Ensure notches on the seat pad bottom align with ties on top. Pin in place with teeth of zip 1.5cm from edge and excess tape folded back. Stitch as before.

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Close zip, leaving a hand’s width open. Working from top of seat pad and with the ties tucked between the top and bottom, match the edges. Pin at these points, quarter-way points and remaining edges, easing excess fabric. Machine-stitch at one end of the zip close to stitching line and around edges of seat pad.

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As you approach the end of the zip, pull the end towards the seam allowance. Sew as close as possible to end of the zip, again. Clip curved seams. Turn seat pad to right side and insert foam.

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Fold seat fabric in half, right sides together (RST). Place pattern on top and pin in place. Cut out to produce a top and bottom piece and neaten edges. Line up the pattern on top of each piece and cut notches at the marks for the uprights.

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Pin the edge of one piece of seat fabric and measure perimeter. Make a length of piping at least 4cm longer. Starting at the back of the

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Use gold fabric to add trims and piping around necklines, cuffs and hems

Khaki quilted winter jersey £4.99 per metre www.fabricland.co.uk

Metallic gold paper lamé £3.50 per metre www.weaverdee.co.uk

Ochre 100% cotton denim £9.90 per metre www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

Ecru sweatshirt jersey £12.99 per metre www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Pink gaberchino £4.99 per metre www.calicolaine.co.uk

Grid Black Moda luster metallic £13.80 per metre www.plushaddict.co.uk

G E T

T H E

L O O K

SPORTS

Roll-neck top £14.99, piped joggers £19.99 and metallic mule sandals £17.99 All available from www.bonprix.co.uk

LUXE

Mix and match activewear staples with metallic accessories and high-end embellishments


INSPIRATION

CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Striking summer dresses are waiting to be made and our two fabric suppliers pick their favourite fabric for warmer weather BOLD BLOSOMS, MINERVA CRAFTS

Vicki

This family-run business offers a fast, friendly service. Minerva’s website is a dressmaking mecca – it stocks every type of fabric and the slick search facility means you’ll find what you need every time! www.minervacrafts.com

Floral-print scuba £7.99 per metre Scuba fabric is very popular right now at Minerva. This bright and colourful print is the perfect way to add a splash of colour to your wardrobe.

Vibrant florals microfibre £7.99 per metre Microfibre is a soft, drapey fabric perfect for making blouses and dresses in soft, unstructured styles. It doesn’t crease much, making it perfect to pack in your suitcase to take on your travels!

Abstract floral stretch cotton £11.99 per metre Stretch cotton is a favourite at Minerva. This versatile fabric has the added element of stretch that makes it much easier to achieve a great fit.

COMBED COTTON SPANDEX KNIT, GIRL CHARLEE

Mark

With an incredible selection of quality knit fabric, Girl Charlee goes the extra mile to bring you unique prints and solids you haven’t seen before. www.girlcharlee.co.uk

Homestead Life Dotty Floral cotton spandex £17.95 per metre Part of the new Homestead Life range, this rose and pin dot design on grey is perfect for a cute summer top!

Homestead Life Saloon Stripe cotton spandex £17.95 per metre The BOLT range has four-way stretch, so this classic dark blue Breton stripe can be used vertically or horizontally – definitely a wardrobe staple!

Homestead Life Bluebird Garden cotton spandex £17.95 per metre This beautiful vintage china-inspired bluebirds on dusty pink would appreciate a stunning shift dress to show off the amazing print.

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Relaxed harem

White ruffle T-shirt £14, www.next.co.uk

PANTS Harem pants are the perfect loose-fitting trousers, comfortable yet smart enough to wear for a night out Project FIONA HESFORD www.sewgirl.co.uk Photography RENATA STONYTE Model CHARLOTTE for BOSS models Hair and make-up DANNI for CREATIVES

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FREE TEMPLATE

Fiona “MAKE THESE IN SLINKY VISCOSE PRINTED JERSEY AND BUILD YOUR SKILLS WITH SIDE POCKETS AND SHIRRED ELASTICATED WAISTBAND AND CUFFS”


STYLE HOW TO MAKE: Sew the back pieces together at centre back seam. Repeat on the front pieces. Finish the raw edges. (See pics A and B.)

SKILL LEVEL:

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FABRIC TYPES: Suitable for any drapey viscose fabric or jersey MATERIALS: •• 1.3m (small & medium) 1.4m (large) 140cm-wide viscose jersey •• shirring elastic •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

BUIL D YO U R SHIRRIN G SKIL LS WI T H OUR H OW-TO GUIDE. Turn to page 60

NOTES: Use a 1cm seam allowance throughout. Finish the raw edges with an over locker or zigzag stitch or raw edges can be left if sewing jersey fabric

FIONA'S HANDY TIPS •• To shirr the cuff band it’s easier to remove the front table of your machine if possible and fit the cuff band around the machine arm •• Place a pin at quarter points on the band and match these to the four seams

CUTTING: Fold the fabric in half with selvedges aligned RST Cut out the following pattern pieces: Front, back, waistband, cuff – cut 2 pieces (cut one on folded fabric ie 2 pieces altogether) Pocket – cut 2 pairs

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B MEASUREMENTS Finished garment measurements

Length from top of waistband to cuff

Finished hip measurement

Small

104cm

118cm

Medium

106cm

128cm

Large

108cm

138cm SIZING

UK Size Guide

8-10 (Small)

12-14 (Medium)

16-18 (Large)

Waist

26-27”

65-69 cm

29-31”

74-79cm

33-35”

84-89cm

Hip

35-37”

90-94cm

39-41”

99-104cm

43-45”

109-114cm

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Pin one pocket piece at each side of front and back using the positioning marker on the pattern piece with right sides together (RST), aligning straight edges. Sew a 1cm seam. Press pocket away from trouser leg. Top-stitch on RS 3mm from seam line on pocket side. (See pics C and D.) Sew the front to the back at the sides and all around the pocket. Finish raw edges. (See Pic E.)

Pin raw edge of the waistband to the top raw edge of the pants with RST. Sew all around with a stretch stitch extending elasticated band to match pants as you go. Finish raw edges. (See pics I and J.) Pin the cuff bands to the lower edges of the pants. (See pics K and L.) Sew a 1cm seam, stretching the band as you sew. Finish raw edges.

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Sew the waistband and ankle cuffs band together at short sides with RST to form a ‘ring’. Press seam open (See Pic F.)

GET THE LOOK Blue Casablanca viscose jersey

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Fold the bands over in half with wrong sides together press and pin so the raw edges are aligned. (See Pic G.)

This 154cm-wide T-shirt-weight viscose jersey dress fabric has a striking North African tileinspired design on a blue background £12 per metre

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With shirring elastic wound onto the bobbin, sew six lines of shirring approximately 1cm apart on the waistband and four lines on each ankle cuff band, stretching the fabric gently as you go. Tie the elastic ends together and sew any threads into the band, trim. (See Pic H.)

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www.fabric godmother.co.uk

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Courses, Craft Kits, Supplies

The world’s most innovative fabrics

www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk "Here at the Leicestershire Craft Centre we aim to pass on our art and craft knowledge in a fun and inspiring way." 10a High Street, Market Harborough, LE16 7NJ

Linton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the world’s most exclusive fashion houses See our website for the Linton Direct collection Use discount code

lovesewing10

www.lintondirect.co.uk Unit 1a, Rutland Garden Centre/Retail Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham, Rutland, LE15 7QN Tel: 01572 756468

Our friendly, well trained staff welcome you to our beautiful garden centre location with ample free parking, café and other retailers on site. We have a superb range of Patchwork and dressmaking fabrics and accessories, regular classes and workshops as well as being a Pfaff, Horn and Babylock dealer.

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Extensive Range Of Fabrics, Haberdashery, Needlecraft Accessories & Sewing Workshops

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Successful SHIRRING

Skill builder

Banish your fears and get to grips with shirring with Jeanette Archer's step-by-step guide. It’s the ideal technique for summer garments! NEED-TO-KNOW FACTS

What is the technique? A method of gathering using shirring elastic. What can it be used for? A decorative way to gather fullness; it’s often used on yokes of dresses, skirts or trousers and at sleeve and trouser cuffs. What type of fabric is it suitable for? Lightweight fabric such as cotton lawn and voile work beautifully, as does crepe, chiffon and lighter jersey. Which foot should you use? Your regular sewing machine foot. What are the common problems? Winding the bobbin too tight, tension too loose and leaving the threads too short at each end. Do you need to make adjustments to your machine settings? Not usually, but if the tension is too loose it will need adjusting. Any tricks or tips that we need to know? A neat trick is to use the steam from your iron to set the gathers in place rather than pressing, which will flatten the gathers.

SHIRRING:

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Thread the top of your machine as usual, with the elastic wound bobbin in the usual place. Make sure you have long threads of elastic and your sewing thread is behind the needle before you start sewing. Set your machine for a gathering stitch, at stitch width 0 and stitch length 5 (or the longest stitch you have on your machine).

Try your hand at our shirred jersey harem pants on page 56

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top thread will pick up the elastic on the reverse making even gathers as you go. (See Pic B.)

1

Carefully wind the shirring elastic onto the bobbin by hand. Do not pull tight! Keep an even, light tension. (See Pic A.)

Practise on scrap fabric. Sew with the right side of the fabric facing up. The

Check the tension. The elastic should be evenly taken up and held in place by the top thread. If the threads holding the elastic on the reverse are too loose, turn up the tension on your sewing machine to tighten. (See Pic C.) Practice

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TUTORIAL FI NI S HI NG TOUC HES

Once your garment is completed, use the steam setting on your iron to set the gathers in place. The heat from the steam will contract the elastic and produce a tight, even finish. Remember hold the iron lightly above the fabric and steam. Do not press!

TOP NOTCH

As you would with cotton, try to avoid cheap elastic thread. Buying a good-quality brand will make all the difference to the shirring experience!

Tension too loose C

Add detail by shirring in a contrasting colour Gütermann elastic thread 10m £1.45, www.plushaddict.co.uk

SHIRR AWAY

Try out your new skills on one of these great summer patterns...

D

Correct tension

E LADIES HONEY GIRL DRESS & TOP Jamie Christina Paper pattern £12.99 Design details – shirred bodice, optional shoulder straps, optional ruffle Sizes 4-18 www.minervacrafts.com

F changing the tension and experimenting until you get it right. (See Pic D.)

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When sewing rows of shirring, if you have a walking foot it might help to keep the rows even. Remember to mark your rows before stitching or use the edge of the foot as a guide. A 1cm gap between rows works well. (See pics E and F.)

SHIRRING STRETCH FABRIC When shirring stretch fabric, remember not to stretch the fabric as it goes through the machine; let the feed dogs move the fabric through the machine. For best results use a stretch or ballpoint needle with a regular straight stitch rather than switching to a stretch stitch

9367 GIRLS DRESS AND TOP Burda Age 6-13 yrs Paper pattern £7.50 Design details – slit back, shirred waist to fit, sleeveless www.sewessential.co.uk

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Sustainable tailoring:

Replacing a zip

Jamie

Zips get plenty of wear and tear, and replacing them can be a challenge. Follow Jamie Kemp’s simple guide to getting the best results Words JAMIE KEMP www.maledevonsewing.co.uk

T

his year celebrates the 100th birthday of the issue of the patent for the zip (or separable fastener as it was known). Zips come in many guises and are found in every sort of garment from shoes to wetsuits, and we really do take it for granted! The zip has to work hard in a garment and eventually wear and tear takes its toll – a broken zip often leads to a garment being thrown away, but replacing a zip is not difficult, costs next to nothing and gives a garment a whole new lease of life.

1

Measure the length of the zip you are replacing and purchase a suitable replacement. (See Pic A.)

2

The zip is normally covered with a flap of fabric, known as the zip shield, on the inside. Remove the bar tack that secures it in place and the zip shield can

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now be moved out of the way, revealing the stitches (one or more rows) holding the zip to the buttonhole side. (See pics B and C.)

between the zip guard and top fabric. Align the teeth to the marks made earlier. Insert the top of the zip into the waistband and baste in place. (See Pic I.)

3

7

Carefully unpick the stitches, including a small amount along the waistband, to remove that side of the zip. (See Pic D.)

4

Mark the edge of the zip teeth along the zip guard (on the right side of fabric) using contrasting thread (this, button side, of the zip is normally covered), and edge-stitch in place. Carefully unpick the edge stitching. (See pics E and F.)

5

Unpick any other stitching hidden from view. Unpick a small amount from the waistband. The broken zip can now be removed. (See pics G and H.)

6

The new zip is replaced in reverse order. Begin by placing the open zip

Sew the zip in place from top to bottom along the centre – this is easier using a zip foot. Place the top fabric in place over the zip and edgestitch in place through all layers. Topstitch the waistband opening, catching the zip between. (See pics J and K.)

8

Fasten the zip and top button before placing the other side of the zip on the inside of the trousers. Pin carefully in place. (See Pic L.)

9

You don’t want any seam lines visible on the outside so, using strong thread, hand-sew this side of the zip in place using backstitch. Ensure you only catch one layer of fabric as you do this


TUTORIAL – I always sew two rows of stitches for security. Tuck the top of the zip into the opening at the waistband and top-stitch to secure. (See Pic M.)

10

Place the zip guard in place over the zip and re-sew the bar tack (from the right side) through all layers. (See Pic N.) Whilst there may be slight variations between items, the general method applies to all zips. So don’t throw your favourite garment away, repair it!

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Retro kitty This retro cat toy is made from a vintage 1970s sheet, but any similar floral cotton fabric would work. Hand-stitch your kitty’s face, fill her with lavender and she'll smell lovely! Project FIONA HESFORD www.sewgirl.co.uk

Fiona DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE


KIDS SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 2 45x30cm floral cotton fabric pieces •• 10cm square white felt •• 2 1cm buttons •• 2 10cm lengths 10mm-wide rickrack •• black & pink embroidery thread •• toy stuffing •• lavender (optional) •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk •• embroidery needle •• knitting needle/chopstick •• fabric marker or soft pencil •• safety pin NOTES: If you are making this toy for a young child, handstitch the eyes using felt or thread rather than attaching buttons

HOW TO MAKE: Lay the fabric right sides together (RST) on a table, pin the template in position and draw around it with a soft pencil or fabric marker pen – this is your stitch line. (See Pic A.)

1

the excess rickrack. (See Pic E.) Nick the seam allowances every 1cm all around. (See Pic F.)

5

Turn the kitty inside out though the opening, pushing out the ears, tail and foot with a poking tool. (See Pic G.) Press.

2

6

3

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Remove template and repin fabric. Sew carefully along the marked line all around the kitty shape, leaving an opening at the base as shown on the template and also 1cm each side of the neck for the rickrack. (See Pic B.) Cut out the cat 1cm away from the stitch line. (See pics C and D.)

4

Insert the two rickrack pieces at the neck opening and bring out of the other side using a safety pin, leaving a small amount showing at each side. Sew up the opening. Trim

Push a small amount of stuffing into the ears, tail and foot of using a poking tool or chopstick. Place the lavender in the tummy region and top up with toy filling. Sew the opening by hand. (See pics H and I.) Cut two eye pieces from white felt and secure in position with stitches or fabric glue. Sew on two buttons for the eyes. Stitch a nose with a few long stitches in pink embroidery thread and a mouth and whiskers in black embroidery thread with some long stitches. (See Pic J.) Press to finish.

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Support your local sewing shop F REE Pattern & Booka zine Offer

VISIT YOUR LOCAL SHOP TO CLAIM YOUR FREE GIFTS

To claim your free gifts, spend £15 in any of our participating stores and then choose one beginner-friendly Simple Sew pattern and a copy of Bagmaking Essentials, packed with inspirational designs and must-have accessories! ABERGAVENNY

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Black Mountain Fabric is a family run, patchwork specialist fabric store located in Abergavenny - the gateway to Wales. We stock an eclectic collection of 100% cottons, wool felt, dressmaking fabric and a selection of haberdashery 29 Cross Street, Abergavenny, NP7 5EW 01873 858827 www.blackmountainfabric.co.uk

BISHOP AUCKLAND

enquiries@banburysewingcentre.co.uk

Open 9-5 Mon-Sat

Birmingham City Centre Sewing Studio & Tuition

Supplying fabrics, including designer and haberdashery. Knitting & Crochet yarns and accessories. Lace, trims and lots of exciting things! Watch this space... classes starting soon!

212 The Jubilee Centre, 120 Pershore Street, Birmingham B5 6ND Fabric and Haberdashery Shop specialising in amazing jerseys and luxury cotton lawns. Dashwood Jerseys now in stock Tel 07917 536 220 www.sewcoolandcrafty.co.uk

Telephone orders welcome. 01295 262344

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COLOURS OF THE RAINBOW

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CHEPSTOW 17 Moor Street, Chepstow, NP16 5DB

15 Market Street, Cinderford, Gloucestershire, GL14 2RT 01594 825 385 Visit us in the Forest of Dean for all of your sewing and alteration needs. We have a growing selection of fabric, haberdashery, sewing patterns, and more! We are now holding sewing lessons for all levels of skill! If you’d like to learn how to create beautiful items for your home, please contact us for details!

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01291 627 056 www.thesewingshopchepstow.com Cotton dress and quilting fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Gutermann. Teaching in small groups for beginners and more experienced, dress making, zips, and more!

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Spend £15.00 on fabric and get 100m Guttermann thread free, just produce this ad! 28a High Street, Dereham, Norfolk, NR19 1DR 01362 652 961 www.knitwitsdereham.co.uk

For all of your cardmaking, jewellery, knitting, crocheting and sewing needs. 77 High Street Ilfracombe Devon EX34 9NQ Open 6 days a week. ✆ 07976 603823 ✆ 01271 268353

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Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk #32 Grace Dress envelope

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One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU

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We sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery,ideal for dressmaking, patchwork, and crafting work! I do a range of groups and workshops each week. Please contact me for further details. Open 9.00 - 17.00 Closed Thursday and Sunday

Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

183 High Street, Herne Bay, CT6 5AF 07983 310 891 Facebook/heidiscraftsandfabrics

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*Minimum in-store spend of £15 applies. To take advantage of this offer please hand this voucher over the counter with your contact details. Your free pattern and bookazine will be sent directly to you from Practical Publishing Int Ltd. Please ensure all your details are completed in black ink. By taking advantage of this offer you are agreeing to join the Practical Publishing Int Ltd e-newsletter list. You may opt out of this at any time. Your details will not be shared with any third party companies. Please allow 2-4 weeks for your free gifts to arrive. Available while stocks last. UK offer only. Only stores listed on these pages (68-70) of Sew Now issue 8 are participating in this offer.

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Take a look at our gorgeous fabrics. We stock fabric from Inprint at Jane Makower, Makower, Dashwood, AGF and Cloud 9... to name just a few 116 Portland Road, Hove, East Sussex BN3 5DN Tel 01273 270 087 Email: ohsewditsy@gmail.com www.ohsewditsy.co.uk

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Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will find exactly what you are looking for. The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

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SURREYLYNN KINGS

The Fent Shop Huge stock of everything for the needleworker. Established in Kings Lynn over 50 years ago, a real 'Aladdin's cave' of Beautiful and workshops and haberdashery. fabrics fabrics where you will find a warm and 41 Broad Street, Kings Lynn, friendly welcome. Norfolk, PE30 1DP

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32 Bridge Road, Hampton Court Village, East Molesey, Surrey KT8 9HA

Shop open 7 days a week Designer fabrics, 1000s of bolts, books,Brother notions, sewing machines, haberdashery, buttons & beads and bag making sewing workshops, accessories parties. Classes & Workshops Secure Online Shopping

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A friendly quiltingrange and knitting shop, we Extensive of Fabrics, have a large stock of quiltingCraft fabrics and Wool, Haberdashery, Kits notions. & Workshops. Including: Liberty, Kaffe Fassett, We run weekly workshops. Micheal Miller,classes Riley and Blake, Fabric We also stock Freedom, Rowan, King wool. Cole, Stylecraft

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A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics. Running sewing classes from beginners to patchwork & quilting and lampshade A unique collection of quality making. Also making unique dress fabrics and trims, childrensbased clothing. in

the New Forest. Our fabrics are all year round classics with an up to date twist.

2 Market Street,

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To advertise in Sew Now call Noune on 0844 826 0612 NORTHALLERTON

Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.

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Mrs Sew n Sew is a treasure trove of dressmaking necessities. Dress fabric, patterns, trims and much more to satisfy all your sewing needs. We also run sewing and craft workshops through out the year.

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fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, or order online workshops more Gorgeous fabrics and& sewing supplies for dressmakers, quilters and crafters. 20-22 Lavant Street, PETERSFIELD, Workshops, classesGU32 and sewing Hampshire, 3EW café.

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Crafts & C Fabulous fabrics for patchwork, dressmaking & crafts.

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Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting. Weekly sewing sessions Weekend workshops Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Bespoke commissions undertaken

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DISCOUNTS GIVEAWAYS Lovely sewing goodies and patterns to win, plus generous discounts to help fill your fabric stash 20% OFF CHAMBRAY AT MINERVA CRAFTS Chambray is perfect for dressmaking, and and the extensive range available at Minerva Crafts means you’ll be spoilt for choice when you start your next dress, blouse, tunic and more summer sewing projects! Simply enter code CHAMBRAY20 when shopping at www.minervacrafts.com to receive your discount. Minerva Crafts is a family run business born of a love for fabric, sewing and knitting. Offer expires 30 June 2017, only applicable to chambray fabric

WIN TICKETS TO SEWING BEE LIVE

WIN A LINGERIE SEWING BUNDLE We’ve teamed up with Cotton Reel Studio to give away an exclusive lingerie sewing bundle, perfect for sewists who have always fancied giving lingerie a try! The bundle includes pretty polka dot cotton to be used with a knickers pattern, and a bundle of lace basics ideal for sewing something special. Find all this and more online at www. cottonreelstudio.co.uk

Reader discounts! SAVE 10% across the complete fabric range at Dragonfly Fabrics when you enter code Sew38 at www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk Offer expires 1st August 2017

GET 20% OFF the price of the new Juniper Cardigan sewing pattern from www.jennifer laurenvintage.com when you enter code SEWNOW20. Turn to page 6 to find out how you can win a copy of the pattern Offer applies 11th May – 22nd June 2017

WIN A FLO-JO PYJAMA SEWING BUNDLE

WIN AN INDIE PATTERN BUNDLE

Make Betty, a cute and comfy camisole and shorts set perfect for the bedroom. The pattern is cut on the bias to create a flowing flattering shape and is finished with French seams for a professional finish. Lawn fabric, lace and satin ribbon are included in the bundle with the pattern to give a luxurious feel. Betty is graded UK size 8-20 and is aimed at confident beginners. Find out more at www.flo-jofabrics.co.uk

The team at Dragonfly Fabrics has an eye for wonderful patterns, and you can shop a great range of patterns from independent designers at www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk. We have a bundle of three patterns to give away this issue, all available from Dragonfly Fabrics – including Grainline Studio’s Farrow Dress, Schnittchen’s Tara Top and Named’s Tuuli V-Neck Jersey Dress & Bodysuit.

Sewing Bee Live is the UK’s biggest, most exciting new dressmaking event, and we’ve teamed up with the organisers to give away 10 pairs of tickets to the show! Taking place in ExCel London, 21st – 24th September, Sewing Bee stars such as Jade Earley, Patrick Grant, Esme Young and more will be at the show, along with workshops, a catwalk and much more! Tickets are available from www.thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com Winning tickets will entitle entry to the show on any day excluding Saturday 23rd September

To enter, go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow8 Closing date: 15th June 2017. Only one entry per person. Open to UK residents only. By entering these competitions, you accept your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities WWW.S E W N OW MAG .C O.UK

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Are you

listening? Podcasts make the perfect companion as you sew or for creative entertainment and inspiration on the go. Here are our top 10 favourite shows

M

y name is Bethany and I have an addiction. I can’t get enough of listening to crafty podcasts. I listen to them on my way to work, at my desk, at home while I’m hand stitching on the couch and pretty much any time I have a spare half an hour or need some creative inspiration. They’re the perfect little pick me up for when your sewing mojo has fallen a little flat and offer tonnes of advice on how to take your crafty skills or business to the next level. Here are the shows we’re listening to right now.

Editorial Assistant’s pick

Abby Glassenberg runs the fab While She Naps blog, covering everything from home sewing to craft publishing, pattern designing and creative entrepreneurship. Her podcast is packed with interviews with leading quilters, sewists, stitchers, authors and industry specialists. Abby is a really engaging interviewer and always gets great stories out of her guests, as well as lots of insider know-how! www.whileshenaps.com

Jenny

How do you like your podcasts in the morning? If you like yours with a joke then you’ll love this mix of comedy, yarn and knitting. Based in Scotland, this weekly show is hosted by Jo Milmine and allows you to explore the inner workings of the knitting industry, meeting entrepreneurs, dissecting new patterns and offering support through the regular knitting surgery sessions. It’s great fun for knitters and crocheters of all abilities and well worth a listen just to hear the presenter’s weird and wonderful anecdotes. www.shinybees.com

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ELISE GETS CRAFTY

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SHINY BEES

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WHILE SHE NAPS

Photo by Lisa Neighbors

by BETHANY ARMITAGE

THE LIVELY SHOW

Queen of positive thinking, Jess Lively began her career as a jewellery designer and gradually transitioned to creative business and lifestyle coaching. Her podcast covers the emotions and psychology behind being a creative person or entrepreneur and she shares insightful interviews from life coaches, makers and business folk as she travels the world recording her hugely popular show. www.jesslively.com

If you’re a long-time blog reader then you’ve probably come across Elise Blaha Cripe. She’s been sharing her thoughts, crafty projects, tutorials and Etsy advice since 2005 and has released over 100 podcasts covering everything from making time for creativity, how to organise your space and small business marketing. If you’re searching for a motivational voice then Elise is your woman! www.elisejoy.com


INSPIRATION

MODERN SEWCIETY

8

Stephanie Kendron loves nothing more than meeting the people behind some of our favourite sewing blogs, discovering their sewing, fabric and quilting stories. The back catalogue of show guests is truly impressive, including The Fold line, quilter Amy Smart and Tula Pink. www.modernsewciety.com

5

WOMEN’S HOUR

Editor’s choice

6

Jane Garvey and Jenni Murray take to the airwaves from Monday to Saturday and discuss a diverse range of topical issues affecting modern women. Expect everything from politics to parenting debates. If you’re in need of a regular companion in your sewing room then this is a must listen. www.bbc.co.uk

Sam

THREAD CULT

Learn while you sew with Thread Cult. Brought to you by journalist and sewing blogger Christine Cyr Clisset, each show discusses sewing, stitching, weaving and dyeing troubleshooting, bringing thought-provoking conversations and inspiring guests. Whether you’re a stitcher, dressmaker or fashion designer, there’s plenty to pique your interest and take your creative skills to the next level. threadcult.com

9

CRAFT-ISH

Author, maker and designer Vickie Howell chats to some of the biggest names in the creative industry, such as textiles designer Anna Maria Horner and knitting icon Erika Knight. She makes sure to cover topical subjects too and we especially love her powerful interview with Pussyhat designer Kat Coyle. Vickie not only gets to the bottom of the interviewees’ crafty passions but really connects with her guests. Keep an eye out in the shownotes for giveaways! www.vickiehowell.com/craftish

CRAFT SANITY Often referred to as ‘the original crafty podcast’, Jennifer Ackerman-Haywood began the show back in 2005 while on her second maternity leave and she’s since produced almost 200 episodes! Based in the US, Jennifer’s show explores not only makers from around the world but also every crafty discipline you can think of. This includes weaving, dyeing, papercraft, knitting, stamping and sewing. Most shows are well over an hour too, perfect for an afternoon sesh at the sewing machine. www.craftsanity.com

7 10

MAKER STYLE

Fabric, fashion, sewing and sustainability – now that’s a mix we can get on board with! Presenter Rachel packs her podcast with handmade inspiration, sharing her latest sewing conquests – she’s become quite a whiz at lingerie sewing – and interviewing crafty entrepreneurs along the way. She’s a real champion of indie designers and certainly knows a thing or two about choosing fabric. www.makerstyle.ca

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Button

YOUR

FREE PATTERN TUTORIAL

BANDS

Finishing a button band professionally requires skill and attention to detail. Alison Smith MBE shows us how get it right every time

Alison

A

poorly sewn button band can give a garment an amateur, home-sewn feel. On this month’s Butterick B5889 free pattern the button band is an important feature, and with no collar or hem to hide any imperfections accuracy is really important. The type of fabric you choose for your shirt is also important – cotton or linen will be easier to sew, whereas rayon or polyester will be more fiddly.

1

Interface the button bands with a suitable fusible interfacing such as G785 or H180. Interfacing that is too heavy will spoil the blouse. (See Pic A.)

2

I have not marked any button placement as I like to choose my own places for the buttons. Press the button bands in half wrong sides together and press under one long edge accurately by the 1.5cm seam allowance. (See Pic B.)

3

Before placing the button band to the blouse, check that the two front edges are exactly the same length. If not, adjust the hem facing – it’s easier to alter this than the bias strip at the neck. Once both front edges are the same length, place the long, unpressed edge of the button bands to the front edges right sides together and machine at 1.5cm. Press the seam towards the button band and trim the blouse side of the seam allowance to half its width. (See Pic C.)

4

Fold the button band back on itself right sides together, matching the folded edge of the band to the band/front seam. Pin to secure. You are now going to stitch the top and bottom edge. These need to

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TUTORIAL

be at 90˚ to the folded edge of the button band. If you can’t trust yourself to machinesew a straight line, draw a line to follow. This must also line up with the top of the bias neck edge and the hem edge. (See pics D and E.)

5

Clip the corner off the top and bottom, layer the seam and turn and press. (See Pic F.) On the wrong side, the folded under edge should be lining up with the machining. Pin and press. (See Pic G.) The edges of the button band now require top-stitching to secure. This can be done from the wrong side, but only if you have really good bobbin tension on your sewing machine, as this can sometimes be less neat than the needle thread. You will have to join the stitching by pulling the threads to the wrong side and sewing them in. Top-stitch the folded edge too. (See Pic H.)

A

If you are finding the top and bottom edges chunky to stitch through, stitch towards them and off the edge rather than trying to start on a lump!

7

Place the buttons on the right-hand front of the blouse, as worn. I decided on five slightly mismatched buttons to reflect the odd birds on my fabric, but you could

“COTTON OR LINEN WILL BE EASIER TO SEW, WHEREAS RAYON OR POLYESTER WILL BE MORE FIDDLY“ have more or fewer. Start by placing the centre button on the centre of the band. Next decide the placement of the top and

B

A E

D H

6

8

Once stitched, snip carefully through the buttonholes with a sharp pair of scissors or a buttonhole chisel. Don’t use a stitch ripper or you may cut through more than the buttonhole. To stitch on the buttons, place the button bands wrong sides together. (See Pic K.) With double thread in your needle, go through the centre of the buttonhole, where the needle comes out on the left-hand side is where the button is sewn. Repeat for all buttons.

C

B F

I

bottom button and then work out equal spacing. Mark where each buttonhole will start and finish. (See pics I and J.) You need to know which way your machine makes a buttonhole. Some machines will go forward and some backwards, so stitch a test buttonhole to check if you're not sure. Remember you can alter the width and length of the stitches if the fabric is not feeding through evenly.

D

C G

J

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Laura

DOWNLOAD YOUR

“Assess the position of the buttons by slipping the dungarees onto the child and marking where they need to go; this is ideal if you need to increase the length slightly as they grow!”

FREE TEMPLATE

Kids’ classic

DUNGAREES Dungarees are a staple for a toddler’s closet – they are roomy enough for even the most active toddler and look super cute, too! Project LAURA STRUTT


MINI MAKE

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 60” 45”-wide chambray or lightweight denim •• 20” 45”-wide solid fabric •• 2 buttons •• co-ordinating thread •• free templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk SIZES The patterns are for 1–2, 2–3 & 3–4 yrs CUTTING: 2 Fronts 2 Backs Front facing Back facing Pocket 2 Straps NOTES: Use a ³⁄₈“ seam allowance unless otherwise stated HOW TO MAKE: Fold one edge of the chambray fabric toward the other long edge as shown. Cut two fronts and two backs from the folded section, and two straps from the unfolded section. (See Pic A.)

1 A

F

The markings on the pattern are used to indicate the position of the pocket and buttonholes; you can use a piece of tailor’s chalk or work tailor’s tacks to mark them on the fabric

2

5

3

6

4

7

Along the top edge of the pocket, fold ¼ “ to the wrong side and press. Fold a further ¼” to the wrong side, press and secure with a line of topstitching. Fold ¼ “ to the wrong side along both side edges and the base of the pocket. Press. Using the pattern markings as a guide, pin the pocket to the front of the bib. Top-stitch in place around the sides and base. (See Pic E.)

Fold the solid fabric and place front and back facing sections on the fold. Cut out the facing sections and one pocket and two straps from the unfolded section. Transfer the markings from the pattern pieces to the fabric. Zigzag-stitch around all the pieces to secure raw edges. Press each piece. (See Pic B.) Working on each strap in turn, pin one solid cotton and one chambray strap right sides together. Stitch down both long sides and along one short edge, leaving the top short edge open. Clip the corners, turn right side out, and press. Repeat to make the second strap and set aside. (See Pic C.)

With right sides together, pin the front facing to the dungaree front. Stitch from the bottom of the armhole curve, around the neckline, and down to the second armhole curve, leaving the two side seams unstitched. Clip the seams, turn right side out and press to neaten. (See Pic F.) With the chambray side of the straps facing the right side of the back, place the two straps on the dungaree back ⁵⁄₈” in from the sides, with the raw edges of the straps extending beyond the top of the dungarees by ³⁄₈". Pin and sew in

Pin the two fronts right sides together. Working from the top of the bib and ending at the point of the crotch, stitch the centre front seam, leaving inside legs unstitched. Press seam open. Repeat with two back pieces. (See Pic D.)

B

C

G

D

E

H

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MAKE IT YOURS Embroider a monogram on the pocket front or sew on a fun fabric patch

place, stitching within the seam allowance. (See Pic G.)

8

With right sides together, pin the back facing to the dungaree back, ensuring the straps are sandwiched between. Stitch together, as in Step 6. Clip the seams, turn right side out and press. (See Pic H.)

9

With right sides together, pin the dungaree front and back together and sew the inside leg seam in one continuous seam, leaving the bottom 3” unstitched on each leg at the hem edge. Flip the unstitched sections of the facings up, then pin and stitch the side seams, again leaving the bottom 3“ unstitched. Press the seams open and turn the garment right side out. Press to neaten. (See Pic I.)

10

Aligning the raw edges and with wrong sides together, stitch the unstitched sections at the bottom of the legs. Turn up 1½“ and press, then turn up another 1½“ and press again to make the turn-ups. Hand-stitch the turn-ups to the garment at the side seams to secure them in place if you wish. (See Pic J.)

11

Using the pattern markings as a guide, work two buttonholes on the front of the bib section. Sew two buttons onto the straps at the corresponding positions to finish. Snip away all remaining thread ends and press to neaten. (See Pic K.)

Sewing for Babies and Children by Laura Strutt, £12.99 published by CICO Books Photography by Emma Mitchell© CICO Books. Call 01256 302699, quoting KE7 to purchase a copy at the special price of £9.99 including free P&P. For more information, visit www.makeetc.com

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Update your style with the easy-to-follow dressmaking patterns from Simple Sew

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THE SEWING SHOP CHEAM

CHELTENHAM

CHESHIRE

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16 Upper Mulgrave Road, Cheam, SM2 7AZ info@stitcheshaberdashery.co.uk Tel: 0208 661 6040

Fabrics & Haberdashery Workshops & Parties

Bernina - Janome - Novum Elna Sewing Machines - Horn Cabinets All on display at Internet Prices 11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham, GL50 4AA

Sewing Workshops based in Sandbach, Cheshire Classes available: ‘Beginners and advanced level Dressmaking Classes Make a Tote bag Get creative making a cushion Flexible dates and times to suit you’

Stockists of Kaufman, Dashwood, Windham, Sevenberry, & more...

01242 244025 info@westendsewing.co.uk

Contact Mandy on 07772684907 or email: info@sew-stitch-creat8.co.uk

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2 May Cottages, Sandbach, Cheshire CW11 4SD

DARLINGTON

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For all your haberdashery needs. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities. 180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ 01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com

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The Hobby House at Callender Cake and Craft Supplies

We are Darlington's largest one-stop craft shop, selling cake decorating supplies, fabric, wool, needle-felting supplies and lots more! We are open Tuesday, Wednesday & Friday 10am-4pm, Thursday 9.30am-7pm and Saturday 10am-2pm. 21 Whessoe Road, Darlington, DL1 4LE 01325 381463 www.callendercakes.co.uk www.facebook.com/callendercakeandcraft

Molly Felicity Designs original designs made with you in mind Like our fabrics but want to make something yourself? Molly Felicity Designs are now offering vintage inspired fabrics and prints so you can create something wonderful yourself

ESSEX

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SEW BUSY

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops. Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire GU51 4JS Tel: 01252 444220

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GREATER LONDON

HAMPSHIRE

NORTH DEVON

Reads of Winchester Suppliers of sewing machines. Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned. Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Based in Leigh-on-Sea, Essex, we are a friendly, well-stocked craft shop, stocking a wide range of craft products and supplies.

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950

tel: 01702 512 289

contact@ thesewingboxessex.co.uk

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1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

LIVERPOOL

Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota FULL SERVICE NOW £40 (NORMAL PRICE £60) We have a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts available in store. We specialise in repair and service of machines, with free local pick-up and delivery. 185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755

11-12 George Arcade, South Molton, Devon, EX36 3AB, 01769 574071 Patchwork and quilting supplies. Classes and workshops. Open 9am - 5pm Monday to Saturday www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk

NEWPORT

Y ST Y L E , YO U R WA S E W I N G YO U R

To advertise in Sew Now call Noune on 0161 474 6997


INSPIRATION

Team talk

What’s on the Sew Now team’s radar this month and what’s inspiring us to get sewing! Deputy Editor

FAVOURITE TV FOR CRAFTY EVENINGS

Editorial Assistant

Jenny

Netflix is an absolute godsend when it comes to sticking something on to craft along to! Recently I’ve binge-watched all of Gilmore Girls, which has the perfect balance of humour and light-hearted drama so I can watch it without losing valuable craft concentration.

CRAFT EVENT YOU’RE EXCITED ABOUT

Bethany

June 18th sees the annual GrandFest head to London again, with ‘GrandMakers’ over the age of 70 teaching loads of creative masterclasses. There are workshops on everything from crochet to breadmaking and woodturning, and they’re all free! I really don’t know what to pick. If you fancy learning something new from one of the volunteer experts, you can book a class at www.grandfest.royalvoluntaryservice.org.uk Stylist

NEW SKILL YOU’VE RECENTLY MASTERED

As a stylist I am constantly searching for the perfect everything! So when I was failing to find the perfect lampshade for my newly decorated living room, I decided to take the bull by the horns and make my own! I am so happy with the results, it meant that I could pick my own size frame and fabric. The sense of achievement is great. They are a little shabby on the inside but I sneakily bought some diffusers for Lampshade-making equipment the base to from www.fredaldous.com hide this.

Jo

£8 per metre from www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Editor

Fabric from www.abakhan.com

Sam

WHAT’S YOUR MOST PRECIOUS SEWING MEMENTO?

TELL US YOUR FAVOURITE SUMMER FABRIC

I’ve two weddings to go to this summer so I’ve been searching for a floral fabric to make a luxe flared skirt with a waistband. This Garden stretch viscose sateen in ivory (above) is just the ticket, and the Lizzie Skirt pattern from Sew Over It will show it off perfectly!

Seamstress

My mum bought me this darning mushroom from a car boot sale, and I am very fond of it. Not only is it pretty, but it’s useful too. I love hand sewing anyway, but there is something very comforting about darning a hole in a beloved sweater.

Jeanette

PDF pattern £7.50 from www.sewoverit.co.uk

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Persian

PICKLES Traditional American quilters call it Persian pickles, but you might know it better as paisley. Customise a denim shirt using this iconic motif Project BRIDGEEN GILLESPIE

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE


REFASHION SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 6” embroidery hoop (or larger to fit a bigger shirt) •• co-ordinating embroidery floss •• seed beads & long beads •• carbon copy paper to transfer (or white carbon paper for dark denim) •• small sharp craft scissors •• sewing needles •• masking tape •• coloured pencil •• book/magazine •• fabric pencil & ruler (optional) •• denim shirt •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk HOW TO MAKE: Print the pattern to the required size using a photocopier. Roughly cut the paper and position your pattern where you want it. Do this individually or as a set of shapes. Trim carbon copy paper to fit and place face down onto the fabric, with the pattern right side up on top. Use masking tape to hold the designs while you transfer. This will tear the carbon paper on removal but it’s worth using a new piece each time to get the transfer placement right. Put a book or magazine between the shirt layers and carefully trace the designs.

1

A

D

2

Use a coloured pencil so you can easily see the lines that you’ve already been over. Be careful not to lean or press your hands on the design or you could end up with blue copy paper smudges.

3

Choose floss colours to co-ordinate with any beads you’re using. Stitch the outlines first and work from one side to the other across the shoulder area. Start on the inside edge and work outwards towards the sleeves to avoid smudges (important if you’re using white copy paper).

4

Arrange and stitch the beads last. We used simple stitches and went through each bead twice for security, knotting on the reverse when complete and tucking the threads under. We also added some oval beads to the smaller paisley drops but you could satin stitch this area instead, or just stitch outlines.

“IF TRACING ONTO DARK DENIM, THEN REGULAR COPY PAPER WILL BE Sam PRACTICALLY INVISIBLE. YOU’LL NEED SOME WHITE COPY PAPER“

5

If your shirt doesn’t already have a yoke seam, you can draw in your own using a fabric pencil and a ruler. Base it on where the buttons match up at the front. It looks great if you use a heavy line for this, so use a split stitch on all six strands of thread.

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At Home with Modern June is published by C&T Publishing, £21.23

Pretty printed shower curtain With a huge choice of laminated cotton on the market you’ll be able to find just the right fit to match your décor Project KELLY McCANTS


HOME SKILL LEVEL:

Panel accent header Cut 4. 4½˝ × 36˝

FINISHED SIZE: 36x72˝ per panel; makes 1 pair

MATERIALS: •• 2 to 3 yards laminated cotton for main fabric (depending on orientation of pattern), plus more to match pattern repeat if desired •• 11/2 yards laminated cotton for accent fabric, plus more to match pattern repeat if desired •• 11/8 yards 20˝-wide double-sided stiff fusible interfacing, such as C&T Publishing fast2fuse Light •• 121/2 yards 1/2˝-wide double-fold bias tape •• extra-large eyelet kit •• 12 eyelets/grommets •• hole punch

HOW TO MAKE: Align the strips of interfacing with the tops of the headers. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place on the wrong side, leaving the bottom ½˝ (seam allowance) void of interfacing. Be sure to protect your ironing board with parchment paper, an appliqué pressing sheet or Silicone Release Paper.

1

2

Pin the bottom accent panel to the bottom of the main panel, right sides together, remembering to pin within the seam allowances. Sew together. Using a pressing cloth and working with the wrong side up, press the seam allowances down towards the bottom accent panel.

3

Panel accent bottom Cut 2. 16½˝ × 36˝

NOTE: Measurements include a ½” seam allowance unless otherwise stated

Main panel

CUTTING: From the main laminated cotton: Trim off the selvedges and be mindful of the print on the laminated cotton. Many have a distinct repeat, so lay out the fabric to determine the horizontal line that will be the top of both panels. You want the patterns to line up when the panels are hanging next to each other. Use a wide, clear ruler and a pencil to draw two 36x53˝ panels for the main sections of the two shower curtain panels. Cut using scissors or a rotary cutter and mat

the following three pieces and pin together within the bottom seam allowance: an interfaced header right side up with the seam allowance without interfacing at the top; a main panel right side up; another header wrong side up with no interfacing at the top. Make sure that the seam allowance minus interfacing is at the top of the main panel (interfacing would make this seam very bulky). Sew together.

5

Fold the headers upwards, encasing the raw edge at the top of the main panel, and press, making sure you use a pressing cloth because you will be ironing on the right side of the laminated cotton. Pin the headers together along the top edge. (See Pic B.)

With the wrong side up, edge-stitch through the seam allowances, 1/8˝ from Baste the top edge of the header the seam. Stitching from the wrong side of the closed; then edge-stitch 1/8˝ away from laminated cotton will help avoid the pinching the seam created in Step 4. (See Pic C.) and pleating that can occur when topstitching on the laminated surface. (See Pic A.) Sandwich the double-fold bias tape The headers are sewn to the main around the shower curtain panel panels from the bottom edges. Layer and stitch it in place, creating a mitred

6

7

4 A

B Wrong side

Header, right side up, no interfacing at top Stitch here through all 3 layers.

Cut 2. From the 36˝ × 53˝ accent laminated cotton, cut: 4 41/2x36˝ rectangles for the headers (again, being mindful of the fabric print) 2 161/2x36˝ rectangles for the bottoms of the panels, paying close attention to the fabric repeat. If you have a fabric with a strong vertical repeat, cut the panel bottoms to match the headers

From the interfacing, cut 4 4x36” headers

corner, fold and finishing the overlap as you choose.

8

Create a template for the grommets or eyelets on paper by taping four pieces of paper together in a straight line, overlapping them until they measure 36˝. Use a wide, clear ruler to draw a line 1˝ away from and parallel to the long edge. Mark a dot along the line 1˝ in from the corner.

9

Working from left to right, measure and mark a dot 6¾˝ from the previous dot on the 1˝ line. Repeat four times to mark six dots along the 1˝ line. Centre a hole punch at each dot to create the finished template. (See Pic D.)

10

Align the marked side of the paper template with the top of the header on the completed panel and mark the grommet placement with a pen. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install the grommets or eyelets.

11

Repeat steps 2–10 for the second curtain panel of the pair

D

Header, wrong side up, no interfacing at top

Main panel, right side up Seam Edgestitching through 3 layers Wrong side

C

Baste. Edgestitch.

6¾˝

6¾˝

6¾˝ 36˝

Header, right side up

6¾˝

6¾˝

Fold both headers upward.

Main panel, right side up

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Patchwork | Quilting | Appliqué | Fabric

If you adore quilting and patchwork and love contemporary fabric, Quilt Now is your perfect companion. Each issue is filled with beautiful quilting projects from big bed quilts to must-have accessories, using the latest fabric and stash-friendly scraps

Make the se beautiful projects!

ISSUE 36 ON SALE NOW!

Sea glass quilt

Liberty lovelies by Alice Caroline

www.quiltnow.co.uk

www.facebook.com/quiltnow

www.twitter.com/quiltnowmag

www.pinterest.com/quiltnowmag

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/qni36


Oval ceiling light £150, www.harvey-norman.co.uk Coloured shelving unit £79.99, www.tkmaxx.com

Get the LAUNDRY LOOK

Wire baskets £40, www.next.co.uk

HomeSense laundry www.tkmaxx.co.uk

Broste Copenhagen zigzag runner £42, www.amara.com

Duster £12.99, www.tkmaxx.co.uk

Triangle shelf ladder display £79, www.very.co.uk

Amelie side table £149, www.dunelm.com

Revitalise a tired laundry room with these quick and simple fixes Ben de Lisi hand towels £12, www.debenhams.co.uk

Natural rope doorstop £15, www.shop.nationaltrust.org.uk

Shore peg bag £6, www.sainsburys.co.uk WWW.S E W N OW MAG .C O.UK

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INSPIRATION

What you’ve been

sewing... We love seeing what Sew Now projects, patterns and tutorials you’ve been working on and how you’re keeping your sewing machine busy this month Lizzie Anderson from the fabulous sewing blog www.lizziethimble. wordpress.com made our McCall’s M7313 dress from issue 4 and nicknamed it the ‘So Glad I Found You Dress’. We’re loving the vintage vibe you’ve given it Lizzie and what a beautiful shot!

“This is the Kwik Sew 4154 dress from issue 5. I think I overestimated the top and it is a bit blousy but it is nonetheless a very feminine style and I love the tie waist. I will make this over and over but in a smaller size.” Miriam Goldsmith

Linda Milliken shared a snap of the fabulous tie-front McCall’s dress from issue 5. What a great job Linda, we hope you get to wear it lots this summer!

Ellie has made Debbie Shore’s gorgeous sewing caddy from issue 5, using lots of bold prints from her stash. What a brilliant scrap-buster! “I was so pleased with how the baby jacket from issue 6 turned out as it had challenged my sewing skills.” Jennifer Earnshaw

What a cosy choice of fabric, Jennifer! 88

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GET IN TOUCH!

Bethany

Email bethany.armitage@ practicalpublishing.co.uk Use #sewthelove or tag us on Instagram at sewnowmag Post to www.facebook. com/sewnowmag


INSPIRATION

TOP TIPS

to get your sewing business online

SPOTLIGHT – DOTTYDOO www.dottydoo.com Crisp style, beautiful images and gorgeous handmade products

If you want to showcase your passion whilst earning, why not start your business online? We get top tips from Naama Harari, Ecommerce Marketing Manager at Wix.com

1

Do it yourself

Don’t be worried about burning a hole in your pocket if you’re looking to create a website from scratch, as there are several budget ways to go about doing this Wix.com allows users to easily create, manage and grow their own business online. They make the creation process easy by using AI through Artificial Design Intelligence (ADI). By answering a few questions about you and your business, this AI-powered platform creates a one-of-a-kind professional website, complete with content and imagery. Maintenance of your website is extremely important! Use analytics software such as Google Analytics to monitor your website to see what kind of actions are driving more traction.

2

Share your personal story

It’s important to engage with your potential customer in order to turn them into an actual customer, and a great way of doing this is to humanise your business by telling your story. Your story should begin on your homepage and your ‘about me’ section. Tell readers why you first started to sew, talk about the first thing that you ever made and who helped you, and take them through why you decided to take this exciting step. Don’t be afraid to talk about the difficulties you faced along the way as well!

3

Brand your site

Essential parts of your brand are the logo, colours and font style. Ensure that as much as possible, from the colours to the font, match your style. Try taking inspiration from the products you like to sew or are selling online.

4

Create a product gallery

Stunning images are crucial when it comes to the success of any site, particularly creative sites such as sewing businesses. Customers don’t have the luxury of being able to feel your products online, so they’ve got to rely on how you showcase the displayed items in your online store. Think about your favourite sewing blog or online store and take a look at the sort of images they use as a starting point for your inspiration.

5

Spread the word

Social media is one of the most effective tools to get the word out about your business. Take your time to choose the platforms to commit to as it takes time to build up your fans. A visual platform such as Instagram or Pinterest is ideal if you want to show off your hand-sewn items. When first starting, reach out to your personal network of friends and family and ask them to follow your new business online as well as spread the word.

CHECK OUT THESE CREATIVE WEBSITES, BUILT USING WIX www.aunties-attic.net www.paper-and-string.net www.sewingwithlovehoops.co.uk www.cassiepryce.co.uk

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SEWING

WORKSHOPS Brush up on the basics or learn something new at a workshop near you! GILLYBEE DESIGNS Brundall, Norwich GillyBee stocks gorgeous fabric, patterns, ribbon and buttons for dressmakers, quilters and crafters, yummy yarn and a good range of haberdashery. In the GillyBee sewing room, sewing workshops for all levels take place. www.gillybee.co.uk 01603 716140

BOBBINS AND BUTTONS Leicester Bobbins and Buttons offers sewing classes and courses covering a range of skills, and an online collection of the best quality craft and dressmaking fabric. www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk 07791 966917

14TH JUNE Dressmaking Course This six-week course is tailored to your skill requirements, covering the elements you want to learn, including reading a dressmaking pattern, fitting a garment and adjusting a pattern as well as methods and techniques of construction. Some materials included. £110

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15TH JUNE Bring Your Own Project This six-week course is an opportunity to work on a sewing project with the guidance you need! Projects can include soft furnishings, dressmaking to pattern cutting. Some basic materials included in the price. £110

SATURDAYS Bring Your Own Project Single classes bookable as a two or three hour session, held every Saturday morning. Come along for help with a project or to make a specific item. Book a few for bigger projects or ongoing advice. £16-£24

10TH JUNE GillyBee Absolute Beginners

12TH AND 19TH JULY GillyBee Dress/Tunic

Gilly will be running this course over four consecutive weeks to make a six-panelled skirt. Perfect for beginners and refreshers to get started on your sewing journey. Other dates available online. £85

This two-week workshop is the first one using Gilly’s own design. It’s a great project for confident beginners – make a dress just in time for your holiday! Fabric and notions included in the price. £68.50

8TH JULY Tilly & The Buttons Cleo Dungaree Dress

5TH AUGUST – 6TH SEPTEMBER Summer Sewing Café

This one-day workshop will teach you how to sew seams and overlock them, apply facing and top-stitch. This fun workshop includes all the fabric and notions in the price. £64.50

Running on Wednesday evenings and Saturday mornings, work at your own pace on your project and get dedicated guidance. Booking essential. Receive a discount when pre-booking four sessions. £12.50 per session, or £45 for four


WORKSHOPS HAPPY HARE Chapeltown, Sheffield Happy Hare stocks a wide range of fabric, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink, and also offers classes in a variety of crafts. www.handmadehappyhare.com 0114 245 5996

20TH MAY Geranium Child’s Dress

17TH AND 18TH JUNE Sewing for Curves

This course involves making a child’s dress in a choice of lovely cottons. The Made by Rae pattern is available in newborn to age five. All materials are included, and you will take away an original, uncut pattern with you. £40

Jenny Rushmore’s Cashmerette patterns have revolutionised curvy sewing. Patterns are available in size 16 to 32 and also have a range of cup sizes on them. The early part of the class will focus on adjusting the pattern, ensuring that the completed garment will be a perfect fit. All materials are included, and you will take away an original, uncut pattern with you. £75

3RD JUNE Ruby Top All materials are included, and you will take away an original, uncut pattern with you, so you can and make the Ruby dress after the class, pattern by Made by Rae. This is such an easy garment to wear, we are sure that you will make a lot more of them! £40

25TH JUNE Needle-felted Fox Create a cute needle-felted fox from carded wool in this fun and friendly workshop. Learn how to use a variety of techniques in order to construct and sculpt a standing fox with special ‘barbed’ needles. £35

THE SEWING SHOP Chepstow, Wales The Sewing Shop stocks quality cotton fabric including Michael Miller and Riley Blake as well as fashion fabric, Gütermann polyester and cotton thread, Dylon dyes and much more. www.thesewingshopchepstow.com 01291 627056

22ND MAY Small Patchwork Project

3RD JUNE Reversible Skirt

Make either a patchwork cushion or bag. This class is great for beginners who can use a sewing machine and refreshments are included. £45

Come and make a lovely versatile skirt in pretty fabric. Some sewing experience required. Refreshments included, material cost is extra or you are welcome to bring your own. £75

30TH MAY Knicker Making Pretty cotton kits to choose from, including Liberty prints. This is a fun workshop to bring a friend along to! Refreshments are included. £45

9 JUNE Felt Flowers Make some really pretty flowers and take them home in a vase. Relaxing and enjoyable afternoon. £30

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THE SEWING SHOP NOTTINGHAM

Rosa Rhodes Soft Furnishings & Upholstery

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

CRESSWELL SEWING MACHINE CO.

REDDITCH INKBERROW DESIGN CENTRE • City & Guilds Fashion College • Beginners Dress Making Classes • Pattern Cutting Classes • Tailoring Classes • Corsetry Classes • Theatre Costume • Workshops specialising in the Golden Rule Lutterloh System • Creative Sewing Workshops The Old Needleworks, Britten Street, Redditch Worcs, B97 6HD

0115 9402828 198 Carlton Hill, Carlton, NG4 1FT www.rosarhodesltd.co.uk

Sewing machine sales, service, and parts. Repair service offered for most machines. Open 9.30am-4pm Monday to Friday. 10am-Saturday. 0115 926 7572 83 Mansfield Road, Daybrook, Nottingham, NG5 6BH

info@inkberrowdesigncentre.co.uk 01527 69100

SOMERSET

SOMERSET

STANSTED ESSEX

• Sewing classes • Sewing Machines • Large range of Fabrics • Machine Sales • Machine Service • Machine Repairs

Sewing classes/workshops for adults and children Registered Kids Can Sew® instructor

High-quality services in soft furnishings, upholstery and custom designs to domestic and contract clients. We maintain a standard of skill and mastery in the soft furnishing, upholstery and design industry.

01225 482413 27 Charles Street, Bath, BA1 1HU http://husqvarnastudiobath.co.uk/ m.pickles1@btintetrnet.com https://www.facebook.com/ sewingstudiobath/

SUSSEX

SUFFOLK

The Cosy Cabin

For All your Quilting Needs and More....

Teach Me to Sew

info@sewchet.com 01963 32608 Facebook - The Stitch Academy Twitter - @sewchet

Sewing Classes for all 11 Brook Rd Stansted CM24 8BB www.teachmetosew.co.uk tel. 07752209936

TEWKESBURY

WEST SUSSEX

www.thestitchacademy.com

SCOTLAND

We offer a good range of 100% cotton fabrics, YLI, Gutermann & Perle threads, a variety of wadding’s, notions and more. We have an ever increasing list of workshops, and the new Little Cabin is now open. We have free parking next to the cabin and easy access with your sewing machines. Open 7 days a week from 10am to 4pm. Please come and have a wander. The Cosy Cabin, The Risby Barns, South Street, Risby, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk IP28 6QU Telephone: 01284 811 222 E-mail: sales@thecosycabin.co.uk

www.thecosycabin.co.uk

YORKSHIRE

Little Sew and Sew

We are a shop selling lovely fabric and haberdashery. We hold sewing courses and workshops for adults and children. We can also cater for groups. 11B Bexhill Road, St. Leonards, East Sussex TN38 0AH

Sheffield's newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink 7 High Street, Storrington, West Sussex, RH20 4DR

01424 423375 info@littlesewandsewsussex.com

Sew Something has a wide range of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, wool, and everything you need for you haberdashery needs. We also offer courses.

www.littlesewandsewsussex.com

www.sew-something.co.uk 01903 746 204

HABERDASHERY

SALLYS SEWING BOX

65 High Street, Princes Risborough, Bucks HP27 0AE Sally is passionate about sewing and stocks lovely quirky fabrics as well as gifts for sewers and crafters.

Tel: 01844 345753 Email: sally@sallyssewingbox.co.uk

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NEEDLECRAFTS

We also offer classes in a variety of crafts 1a Arundel Road, Sheffield, S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare@yahoo.co.uk www.handmadehappyhare.com

ONLINE

Want to learn to sew? No time to go to classes?

Online sewing bee; access projects at a time to suit you. Download free sewing class 'Make a jeans tote bag'

www.sewingseamseasy.co.uk/ sew-now

Y ST Y L E , YO U R WA S E W I N G YO U R

To advertise in Sew Now call Noune on 0161 474 6997


KNOW-HOW

Tips for

choosing fabric

Before setting out to buy fabric, follow our top tips on buying smarter By ALICE PRIER and LILIA PRIER TISDALL

UNDERSTANDING QUALITY With fabric it should be all about the touch – always ask yourself if it will feel nice to wear. One of the best ways to test a fabric’s quality is the crumple test: take it in your hand and screw it up. Creases will drop out of a good-quality fabric easily, but inferior fabric will remain crumpled. Buy the best you can afford and check for any defects in the piece before you buy. Defects might include a crooked weave, misplaced pattern, dye variations, dirty marks or pulled threads. Natural fabric like silk, wool and linen have inherent irregularities, so try not to place these where they will be obvious.

To be really sure, you can lay out your pattern pieces on a piece of fabric before you go to the shop and see how much you need, or even take them with you.

ESTIMATING HOW MUCH YOU NEED When buying fabric the best way to estimate how much fabric you need is to think of it in lengths – how much fabric do you need from top to bottom? Remember to add a length for sleeves, or extra for a style with lots of fullness.

PATTERNS AND PRINT There are some great prints out there, from small-scale abstract designs to giant oversized florals and everything in between. The most important thing to consider when using printed fabric is the placing of the pattern on the fabric.

LINING AND INTERLINING A bold choice of lining will make your design special. Do not spoil all your hard work with inexpensive lining. Remember, you do not have to use traditional lining fabric – cotton and silk also give a luxurious finish. Using goodquality interlining of the correct weight will help your garment keep its shape and look good for longer.

Do not forget to look for expensive fabric in the remnant box in fabric shops – there may not be enough for a whole garment, but luxurious trim could lift a garment to the next level

CHECKLIST BEFORE CUTTING Do the checks or stripes match? Matching will make your clothes stand out from those in the shops. Are there flowers growing upside down or animals falling out of the sky? Take extra time when cutting a representational print to make sure the pattern is placed in the correct direction and centred on the pattern piece. Have you noticed a nap? Fabric such as velvet, corduroy and fur all have directional texture. Would it be more interesting cut on the bias? For example, striped fabric can be joined at the seams to create a chevron design. Does your fabric have a border print or an interesting selvedge? Save yourself time by using it for the hem. Having said all of that, one final piece of advice is, never be afraid to break the rules! The worst you can do is waste a piece of fabric, and even then you can always use it to make something smaller such as a tote bag or start work on that patchwork quilt! Taken from Pattern Making Templates for Skirts & Dresses, £12.99 by Alice Prier and Lilia Prier Tisdall, published by www.searchpress.com

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Master your

MACHINE Each machine model offers a range of features and functions, but all have the fundamental elements in common. Use this handy guide and you’ll know your way around yours in no time 1

9 THREAD GUIDES Two threads make up each stitch – the top thread and the bobbin thread. The top thread from the spool of cotton passes through the thread guide, which regulates the tension of the thread before it’s fed through the needle.

1

SPEED CONTROLLER A slider that sets the speed the machine will work at when the pedal is pressed, allowing control and precision when sewing.

19

2

REVERSE FUNCTION Use this to set the machine working in a reverse direction, to move backwards across a stitched line. This function is used when securing the threads at the start and end of a line of stitching.

3

3

NEEDLE AND NEEDLE CLAMP The needle is removable to allow you to select from a variety of types and sizes to suit your project. The needle is held in place by the clamp. Most machines include a tool for tightening and loosening the clamp to access the needle.

4

18

PRESSER FOOT LIFTER For lifting and lowering to hold the fabric in place while you sew. Release it to remove the fabric from the machine.

5

4 5

BOBBIN CASE Inside the removable cover is the bobbin case, which houses the bobbin. The bobbin is wound with thread and provides the second thread for each stitch.

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6

7

8

6

FEED DOGS These moving parts lie underneath the needle plate. With spiked teeth that protrude from the opening, these help to move the fabric through the machine.

7

NEEDLE PLATE The metal plate directly below the needle and presser foot. The small opening allows the thread from the bobbin to pass through while the needle enters to make the stitches. On the plate are guide markings to assist straight sewing and measuring seam allowances.

8

PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE DIAL Used for releasing/increasing the weight of the foot on the fabric, for example when working appliqué. You can release the pressure to enable you to turn the fabric smoothly.

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“IF YOU'RE STRUGGLING WITH THE THREADING ON A NEW MACHINE, PRACTISE WITH RED THREAD UNTIL YOU GET THE HANG OF IT”

Jeanette


TUTORIAL BOBBIN WINDER Winds thread from the cotton spool onto the bobbin, ensuring that the thread is fed evenly onto the bobbin and maintains the correct tension.

10

Trouble with tension?

Check that both the machine and bobbin are correctly threaded. If these aren't exactly right, this can cause incorrect tension. Also check that the thread on the bobbin is wound correctly. If it's too tight or too loose, it won't feed through the machine and make even stitches. Another good tip is to use the same thread in the machine and the bobbin – even slightly different threads can unbalance the tension

SPOOL HOLDER This pin runs through the centre of a spool of thread, allowing it to feed smoothly through the machine.

11

SCREEN Displays the relevant information regarding the stitch style, width and length that has been selected.

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11

HAND WHEEL Manually operates the mechanics of the machine, moving the needle up and down and engaging the feed dogs. Newer, computerised machines also have a needle up/down button which can be programmed to stay in the down position – ideal for pivoting on corners.

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12

2

13

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STITCH SELECTOR Allows you to select from the different stitches on the machine and includes a menu from which you make your selection. The stitch is selected by pressing the relevant button and the number will appear on the screen

14

STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH WIDTH SELECTORS Use to increase or decrease the length or width of your stitch. The shorter the stitch, the more stitches are worked across the line of sewing, making it stronger. The width applies to stitches where the needle moves from left to right, such as a zigzag stitch. Adjusting the width button will also move the needle position, which is important when sewing in zips and piping etc.

15 14

FREE ARM This is a narrower working space created when the accessory box is removed. This is perfect for sewing smaller items or inserting sleeves.

16

ACCESSORY DRAWER Use to store alternative presser feet, spare bobbins and maintenance tools.

17

START/STOP BUTTON This allows you to operate the machine without the foot pedal.

18

THREAD CUT BUTTON This will cut the threads after sewing and is highlighted in the screen with the thread cutter mark.

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FEATURE

BASIC STITCHES Whether you’re an established sewist or just starting out, here’s a handy guide to the basics LENGTH AND WIDTH

Stitch length controls the speed of the feed dog and is measured in millimetres from 0 to 4 (sometimes up to 6 for high-end machines). Higher numbers mean the feed dog moves faster in relation to the needle and the stitches are longer. Stitch width controls how far away from the centre the needle can swing. A straight stitch obviously has a width of 0mm, while a zigzag stitch can be as narrow as 1mm or as wide as 4mm.

Standard buttonhole

zig and zag is made of three straight stitches. It is used to attach elastic and stitch on knit fabric. Since the stitches are smaller than a standard zigzag, this means there is less chance of snagging and the stitch has lots of stretch.

STRETCH STRAIGHT

This is a straight stitch with one stitch forwards, one back and one forwards and is strong due to the repeated stitching. It’s often used for high-stress seams such as crotch seams, but can also be used for knits as it has built-in stretch because the feed dog stretches the fabric slightly.

OVERCASTING

Knit buttonhole

The overcast stitch resembles an overlocker or serger stitch and uses both zigzag and straight stitches. It is used to finish the raw edges of fabric to prevent fraying.

Keyhole buttonhole

Note that mechanical machines can only do regular buttonholes Left: straight stitch, right: zigzag stitch

STRAIGHT STITCH

You will use this for 99% of your sewing. It is the basic construction stitch to connect one fabric to another. Use a 2.5mm length for basic sewing, 4mm or longer for tacking, 3mm for topstitching and 1.5-2mm for stress points such as corners and purse straps. Straight stitches do not stretch so do not use them for stretch knits.

ZIGZAG STITCH

a four-step buttonhole, while computerised machines can sew an automatic or one-step buttonhole. Regular buttonholes are standard and can be used on all types of fabric and for all types of buttons. Keyhole buttonholes have a rounded end that opens wider for ball-type buttons. Knit buttonholes have a more defined zigzag stitch to allow for more stretch.

TRICOT/ELASTIC STITCH

This stitch is also called the multi-stitch zigzag and is a zigzag stitch where each

The zigzag can be used as a decorative topstitch, to finish seam allowances to prevent fabric edges from fraying, to sew on appliqué, stitch monograms and for sewing stretch knits. Use a 2.5mm length and 3.5mm width for basic sewing, 0.5mm length and 4-5mm width for satin-stitching appliqué and embroidery, and a 2.5mm length and 0.5mm width for stretch sewing.

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BLIND HEM

The blind hem has several tiny zigzags and then one large zigzag. It is used for hemming and is practically invisible from the right side. Use your manual instructions to lay up fabric correctly.

Taken from Stress-Free Sewing by Nicole Vasbinder, published by Search Press, RRP £12.99

BUTTONHOLE STITCH

A buttonhole is a box made of tiny zigzag stitches. You can stitch a buttonhole using the zigzag stitch, but it is easier to have a buttonhole stitch. Mechanical machines have

Left: overcasting stitch, right: blind hem stitch

Left: tricot/elastic stitch, right: stretch straight stitch


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ISSUE 9 ON SALE 8TH JUNE

EDITORIAL Editor Sam Sterken Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Jenny Riley Art Editors Craig Chubb, Simon Kay Junior Art Editor Sarah Edmondson Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte,Amy Worrall Contributors Jeanette Archer, Carissa Browning,Anna Bruce,The Fold Line, Claire Garside, Bridgeen Gillespie, Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, Fiona Hesford,Jamie Kemp, Kelly McCants, Angeline Murphy,Victoria Peat,Alice Prier, Lilia Prier Tisdall, Stephanie Roper,Alison Smith, Laura Strutt ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Head of Business Development Ruth Walker PUBLISHING Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Assistant Anna Olejarz Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Senior Editor Kate Heppell Head of Content & Publishing Gavin Burrell Head of Product Development Carol Jones Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscription enquiries 01858 438899 DISTRIBUTION Craft Store Distribution amanda.paul@practicalpublishing.co.uk NEWSTRADE COMAG Magazine Distribution CONTACT Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961 Sew Now (ISSN: 2398-9610) is published by Practical Publishing Int Ltd. All material © Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The style and mark of Sew Now is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced without the express consent of Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity. DISCLAIMER The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher. Every care is taken to ensure that the contents of the magazine are accurate, but the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors. While reasonable care has been taken when accepting advertisements, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory transactions, but will investigate any written complaints.


BACK-PAGE BLOGGER

Colette Moneta

5 minutes with...

Nina Chang

Nina enjoys wandering around London in one of her self-sewn outfits, when she isn’t busy working or updating her charming sewing blog Thumblenina Hi there! How are you today and what’s on your sewing table? I’m super, thanks! Right now I’m making some printed blouses for spring – a Sewaholic Granville with swans and my own Bloomsbury Blouse pattern, available from www.ninalee.co.uk with cotton lawn from www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk featuring tiny show jumpers. How would you describe your style? Feminine and fun; I like eye-catching prints, bright colours and all sorts of adornment. Why did you start sewing? I really got into it when I was in my late teens – I was a pint-sized party animal with an ambitious fashion sense and a very small budget!

Are you a big pattern house girl, an indie girl or a mix of both? Definitely a mix – I love discovering the different personalities of indie brands but there’s something so comfortingly familiar about leafing through those huge catalogues from the big companies; they’re part of my sewing history. What is your favourite fabric for spring/summer? I’m obsessed with florals at the moment (it happens every spring), and the Amaryllis cotton lawn from www.fabricgodmother.co.uk What’s your favourite ready-to-wear brand and why? I love the extravagant styles and quirky details of all Anthropologie clothes, and find them so inspiring!

What’s on your to-sew list for the coming months? What’s your favourite colour to wear? I definitely want more jersey dresses Electric blue! in my life – Colette’s Moneta and Sew Over you could give a ”I WAS A PINT-SIZED Ifpiece It’s Ultimate Wraps of advice to a PARTY ANIMAL WITH newbie sewist what are top of the list. I’m AN AMBITIOUS also working on a new would it be? FASHION SENSE AND A You can dive straight pattern for Nina Lee, so there’ll be toiles aplenty! VERY SMALL BUDGET” in with some beginner dressmaking (I did!), but Are there any skills and technique that opt for a garment that isn’t too fitted. I think you’re looking to master? fit is the trickiest element. I’m determined to tackle bras and maybe swimsuits. I already spend What is your favourite sewing sustenance? far too much time poring over I have such a weakness for food – all food. Orange Lingerie’s Instagram Seriously, if it’s around and it’s edible, I’ll eat (orange_lingerie). it! Right now I’m living for dark chocolate: you can probably find chocolate stains What’s your go-to pattern? inside all my me-made items. This is hard as I always seem to be making something new, but I have made Where can we find out more about you? three By Hand London Anna dresses I blog at www.thumblenina.wordpress.com (two for friends) and hacked it into two and I also have my own sewing pattern further dresses. company www.ninalee.co.uk

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Available from www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

na Dress in Italy Nina modelling the An

A lot of Nina’s sewing is done at the dining room table


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