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new ways to rediscover your creativity PAGE 36 easy beaded necklace

MAKE IT!

UICK-SEW

DENIM PINAFORE

     SEWING

MACHINE COVER     

SHELF

 

KIDS’

PLAY HOUSE &more..

Let's go exploring


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83

INSIDE THIS ISSUE ¤ FELT ANIMAL FRIENDS ¤ DENIM PINAFORE DRESS ¤ KNITTED RAINBOW CUSHION ¤ DECOUPAGE FRUIT BOWL ¤ FLOWER DYED SCARF ¤ CHILDREN’S PLAY TENT

beading

crochet

26 MOLLIEMAKES 3

MAIN IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVE CAUDREY; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG

sewing


CONTENTS

60

18

ON THE COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSE WILD; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG; MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA

FELT FRIENDS

Talk to us! facebook.com/MollieMakes

pinterest.com/MollieMakes

4 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

@MollieMakes

MollieMakes

youtube.com/user/MollieMakes

83

issue number eighty three

Kids’ play tent

INTRODUCING.. LIVING The latest news from the world of handmade

Fill your life and home with crafted goodness

9 INTRODUCING…

45 LIVING

Handpicked crafty happenings

We find the loveliest hand-crafted, creative buys for your home

14 TRENDS Make a statement with slogans, plus embroider an inspirational hoop

18 FELT FRIENDS

48 HOME TOUR Design Soda’s Ruth Matthews shows us around her eclectic Victorian home

Get set for an adventure-filled day with this trio of squee-worthy animal pals

53 MACRAMÉ SHELF

26 TEA AND A CHAT

57 CROCHET BASKET

We meet Catherine Nice, founder of homeware design studio Kitty McCall

Use variegated paper yarn to hook up a colourful belly basket in no time at all

32 DYED SCARF

60 PLAY TENT

Bundle-dye a silk scarf with flowers

Kids will love hiding in this fold-up den

Make for instant Californian boho vibes

36 GOOD READ

65 LAUNDRY BAGS

How to reignite your creative spark

Sew yourself these handy holiday essentials

39 DENIM PINAFORE

67 PULL-OUT PAPERS

Easy-sew fashion that’s pattern-free

Chloe Hall’s botantial prints and posters


NEVER MISS AN ISSUE 24 Subscribe UK

Subscribe today to get a John Lewis sewing machine worth £49, plus save 25%

94 Subscribe overseas International subscribers save up to 40%

32

Flowerdyed scarf

16

Slogan hoop

95

Sleep mask

LOVING

GET YOUR CRAFT ON Get your hooks at the ready, because this issue comes with our biggest ever free gift – a bumper crochet project book with 22 gorgeous patterns to try. Whether you’re looking to hook up some wardrobe additions, contemporary homeware or some amigurumi cuties, there’s lots to inspire you. Don’t just stick to crochet this month though – brush up on your decoupage skills with Teri Muncey’s colourful fruit bowl, tap into this season’s love affair with slogans with Junk & Glitter’s contemporary embroidered hoop, and try this summer’s biggest craft trend – bundle dying with flowers – to make a uniquely patterned headscarf. Whatever you’re making this month, share your projects with us using #molliemakers.

Treats and treasures to fall in love with Cath Dean Editor

75 LOVING Beautiful things to adore and make

77 FRUIT BOWL Use decoupage to brighten up a bowl

39

80 NECKLACE Statement beading in candy colours

Pinafore dress

85 MACHINE COVER Keep your sewing machine dust-free

91 RAINBOW CUSHION Knit a colourful rainbow travel pillow

77

Decoupage fruit bowl

95 SLEEP MASK Get your eight hours with this fox mask

99 TEMPLATES All the shapes for this issue’s makes

106 BACK PAGE PROJECT Gudrun Sjödén talks inspiration Subscribe at molliemakes.com

Turn the page to see inside your free crochet book! Turn to page 67 for your papers


Contributors

Anabella Cahwje Anabella is addicted to pasta and ice cream, and loves travelling, dancing and singing. Her wish when blowing out the candles on her birthday cake has been the same for 20 years. Sew Anabella’s circus animals on page 18. www.whatacurlylife.co.uk

Ruth Matthews Ruth started blogging so she’d stop boring her husband with paint decisions. She used to live in a trendy area of London, but moved to the outskirts to make space for a child and a cat. Look around Ruth’s home on page 48. www.designsoda.co.uk

EDITORIAL Editor Cath Dean Deputy Editor Nikki Arnold Senior Art Editor (on maternity leave) Helena Steele Art Editor Kit Cheung Production Editor Yvette Streeter Digital Editor (on maternity leave) Nina Dyer Digital Editor Hannah Carr Picture Editor Emma Georgiou Newsletter Coordinator Lottie Storey molliemakes@immediate.co.uk

ADVERTISING Call: 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Client Partnership Manager Beckie Pring Brand Sales Executive Lauren Morris

MARKETING & CIRCULATION Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith Subscriptions Director Jacky Perales-Morris Direct Marketing Manager Penny Clapp

PRODUCTION Production Director Sarah Powell Production Managers Louisa Molter/Rose Griffiths Junior Production Coordinator Lily Owens-Crossman

LICENSING

Catherine Nice Catherine is the brains behind bold print design company Kitty McCall. Her colourful designs have caught everyone’s eye, from Anthropologie to Michelle Obama. Take a tour of Catherine’s studio on page 26. www.kittymccall.co.uk

Chloe Hall Designer and illustrator Chloe spends her days being inspired by nature and drawing plants. She hopes when people buy her work they feel the outdoors has been brought in. Cut and stick Chloe’s papers on page 67. www.chloe-hall.co.uk

Director of International Licensing and Syndication Tim Hudson tim.hudson@immediate.co.uk

BUYING TEAM Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Corinne Mellerup

MANAGEMENT Publishing Director Catherine Potter Group Senior Editor Julie Taylor Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau Managing Director, Bristol Andy Marshall

SUBSCRIPTIONS

For new orders and back issue sales call 03330 162 142 or visit www. buysubscriptions.com/craft. For enquiries relating to your subscription email molliemakes@servicehelpline.co.uk or call +44 (0) 330 162 142.

Lucinda Ireland Lucinda – AKA Lilly Lou – is an illustrator, designer and street artist from London. She uses bold, playful typography, lots of colour, and always aims to portray a positive message. See Lucinda’s illustration on page 36. lucindaireland.co.uk

Lindsey Newns Lindsey wasn’t given free rein to name her kids, so she called her crochet business Lottie & Albert instead. A lover of all crafts, Lindsey is also an avid hoarder of craft supplies. Crochet Lindsey’s basket on page 57. www.lottieandalbert.blogspot.com

COPYRIGHT GUIDELINES FOR PROJECTS We have requested permission from designers so you can make and sell selected projects on the following conditions. Just look for this icon. Please credit the designer where appropriate and when requested. Mollie Makes encourages creativity and as well as making for gifts and for yourself, we want to help you make small batches of handmade items to sell. You can individually handmake as many as you wish of our labelled projects, to sell for yourself, a local event or to raise money for charity. You cannot sell in shops (online or otherwise) or go into mass production, so you cannot manufacture in large quantities, especially by machine. Selling photocopies of any part of this magazine or its kit is prohibited. Please respect one another’s copyright.

Mollie Makes is published by:

Immediate Media Company Limited, 2nd Floor, Tower House, Fairfax Street, Bristol, BS1 3BN. Tel: 0117 927 9009 We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, please visit immediate.co.uk, email editorialcomplaints@immediate.co.uk or write to Catherine Dean or Katherine Conlon, Immediate Media Co., Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT.

Other contributors Anna Alicia, Babs Behan, Valerie Bracegirdle, Carolyn Bunt, Ilaria Caliri, Dave Caudery, Becki Clark, Hannah Cross, Alexandra Fia @ Mustard Models, Emma Friedlander-Collins, The Fold Line, Simone Francis, Sophie Gibbons, Charlotte Gray, Miki Hemphill, Holly Johnson, Emma Lamb, Helen Martin, Molla Mills, Amy Mullins, Teri Muncey, Fiona Murray, Kirsty Neale, The New Craft House, Hester van Overbeek, Marnia Ryan-Raison, Beki Rymsza, Gudrun Sjödén, Charlotte Smith, Rachael Smith, Lottie Storey, Mandy O’Sullivan, Jesse Wild, Wool and the Gang

6 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered office of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.


your free gift!

bumper crochet project book Hook up 22 colourful patterns, from essential fashion makes to the sweetest amigurumi

inside

THIS GIFT COMES WITH THE PRINT COPY OF THE MAGAZINE ONLY. ALTERNATIVE GIFT ON SOME OVERSEAS COPIES. PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG AND BECKI CLARK

10 fresh new projects to inspire you!

Learn how to crochet all these… cute fruit

boho shrug

retro mandalas

unicorn toy


WWW.LOOPKNITTING.COM 15 CAMDEN PASSAGE, ISLINGTON, LONDON, ENGLAND


INTRODUCING..

83

THE LATEST IN CREATIVE GOODNESS – HANDPICKED JUST FOR YOU

PHOTOGRAPHY: HANNAH DAVIS

You don’t need to wait for life to give you lemons to wear these citrus-themed earrings. They’re from Wolf & Moon’s new lust-worthy Garden Collection, bursting with zingy Mediterranean lemons and wildflower designs. Each piece is made from laser-cut acrylic and wood to make an impact, without weighing you down. www.wolf-and-moon.com

Subscribe at molliemakes.com

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 9


PHOTO: DAVID N ANDERSON

TOP READ Café treats If baking’s your jam, you’re going to love So French So Sweet by legendary chef, Gabriel Gaté. It unites his most treasured pâtisserie recipes, such as choux puffs and tarte tatin, in one delectable, easy-tofollow guide. Yum. www.hardiegrant.co.uk

Karen Mabon likes surprises in her silk designs and this bright scarf is no exception. The abstract patterns are created from fruit ‘n’ veg and yoga poses – hence its name, the Healthy scarf – for post workout glamour. www.karenmabon.com

THIS MONTH’S WISHLIST

Move over butterflies. Not so long ago, moths were the unsung beauties of the winged world, but now they’re making a splash on the runway and our jewellery boxes too, thanks to Erin Paisley’s earthenware necklace. www.enpaisley.etsy.com

Refresh your bedroom décor with vibrant pinks, teals and blues. Inspired by the old city walls and colourful tiles of Marrakesh, bluebellgray’s new Medina duvet is a departure from its signature florals, with bold geometrics and splashes of watercolour. www.bluebellgray.com

Your craft kit needs these supersharp gold-plated embroidery scissors in the shape of a pineapple. They’re the latest design in the Snipsters range, and are made with tempered steel to ensure years of stitchy service. www.cloudcraft.co.uk 10 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83


Fill your shelves with Rachel’s personality-packed vases

BRAND FOCUS Rachel Sender A few years ago, Rachel Sender started playing with clay as a way to get away from her computer, and she hasn’t been able to keep her hands off it since. These fun ceramics are from her Potheads series – a collection of petite plant pots for the home, each with their own faces and personalities. Their appearance changes depending on the plant or flowers inside, so each design looks different in every space! www.rachelsender.tictail.com

With autumn on the way, now’s the time to invest in year-round blooms. These delicate wooden laser-cut designs are hand-finished in London by the super-talented Anna Wiscombe. Buy single stems or mix and match flowers to create a bespoke display. www.annawiscombe.com Let us introduce you to Ivonne!

WEBSITE TO WATCH

Potheads come in singles, pairs and families

Evermade From design-led gifts to limited edition clothing, online boutique Evermade is the place to shop the trends, discover new artists and collaborate with other creatives. Jenni Sparks’ hometown pin badges are the latest addition, featuring iconic imagery such as chips for Brighton, and a spray can for Bristol. www.evermade.com Subscribe at molliemakes.com

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 11


TOP READ Pop & stitch

Let your walls do the talking with this sweet neon ‘hello’ sign. Not just for parties, the chic, mainspowered design can be used in any room you fancy, from lounges and offices to hallways and children’s bedrooms. www.talkingtables.co.uk

What better way to get you and the kids crafting than this new book by printing guru Jane Foster? Featuring 37 pre-punched designs to pop out and sew, Stitching with Jane Foster is a fun introduction to embroidery, with lots of how-tos, stitch guides and, of course, Jane’s quirky imagery. www.quartoknows.com

These charming raffia toy baskets make tidying up so much more appealing – even to little ones. Featuring sweet appliqué faces in shades of pink, coral and yellow, they’re just one of the fun storage designs in RICE’s new Autumn/ Winter range. Happy days. www.berryred.co.uk

Hurrah! Stitch & Story have teamed up with much-loved baby brand Sophie la Girafe®, to launch five limited edition knitting kits. Designs include a Sophie Hat, Sleepy Blanket and the sweetest Raglan Sweater. We can’t wait to stitch ‘em. www.stitchandstory.com

Whip up dalmation-inspired scarfs, jumpers and more with Wool And The Gang’s 101 Spots yarn – a new and distinctive black and white dotty design from the Out of Space dye collection. In your face, Cruella. www.woolandthegang.com 12 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83


y Gudrun SWEDISH DESIGN WITH A GREEN SOUL A pattern mix of simple stripes, big roses and Portuguese tilework is this autumn’s inspiration. All in nature’s own materials. For women of all shapes and ages, all around the world. This has been my vision since 1976.

“CIRCULO” AND “TESS” IN LINEN Mix and match with circles, tulips and zig-zags! Coat dress, £119

SHOP ONLINE!

www.gudrunsjoden.com

Stockholm | Est. 1976

Autumn greetings, Gudrun

UNITED KINGDOM SWEDEN GERMANY NORWAY DENMARK FINLAND IRELAND USA FRANCE SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA THE NETHERLANDS

Welcome to my store at 65-67 Monmouth Street, London You can also visit our webshop, call 0800 056 9912 or e-mail order@gudrunsjoden.co.uk. Free shipping, fast delivery and 30 day return policy!


INTRODUCING trends

THIS MONTH WE’RE OBSESSING ABOUT...

SLOGANS Say what you see with this season’s latest crop of statement slogan buys

Let ‘em know nobody pushes you and your girl gang around. www. muthahoodgoods.com

14 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83


INTRODUCING trends 01

02

01

03

Say yes to a spot of

mindful styling. www. thelovelydrawer.com 02

Take everything to

heart with this enamel keyring. www.skinny diplondon.com 03

Store up your good

deeds for the day in a screen-printed tote. www.onrshop.com 04

Channel happy

thoughts through your homeware. www. urbanoutfitters.com 08

05

07

When good enough is

all you need. www. helloharriet.com 06

04

Making us wonder

why all our shoes don’t have conversations. www.asos.com 07

We’ve just found our

perfect match. www. lisacongdon.etsy.com 08

Well, it would be

rude not to... www. nikkimcwilliams.com 06

05

MAKE IT! TURN THE PAGE TO DIY THE SLOGAN TREND Subscribe at molliemakes.com

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 15


INTRODUCING trends

EMBROIDER IT!

SLOGAN HOOP

MATERIALS QCotton fabric, 20 x 20cm (77/8 x 77/8") (we used Robert Kaufman Fabrics Kona Cotton in Shell) QWooden embroidery hoop, 15cm (6") QEmbroidery threads in black, light grey, light peach, dark peach, light pink, lilac and pale lilac (we used DMC Stranded Cotton in 310, 762, 754, 3779, 819, 3743 and 3042) QEmbroidery needle QSewing thread QErasable fabric marker

16 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

01 Separate the hoop and place the fabric over the outer hoop, right side up. Insert the inner hoop and tighten the screw, pulling the fabric taut, then trim back any excess fabric to 2.5cm (1"). Place the fabric flat onto the template on page 99 and trace the design using the marker. 02 Thread the needle with all six strands of black embroidery thread and knot the end, then use split stitch to embroider the lettering – you’ll find an stitch guide on page 99. Knot and cut the thread after each word, then

01

02

03

04

05

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stitch the dashes around the phrase using straight stitches. 03 Fill the oval shapes using satin stitch – you can refer to the main image as a guide, or choose your own colour combinations. Fill the larger circles with French knots stitched closely together. 04 Use straight stitches and V-shaped stitches to fill in the groups of scattered stitches. 05 Remove any visible pen marks using a wet cotton bud, then take the fabric out the hoop. Place it back over the hoop, wrong side up, then insert the

inner hoop and tighten the screw again, pulling the fabric taut. 06 Thread the needle with sewing thread and double knot it 5cm (2") from the end. Sew a running stitch through the excess fabric, then pull the thread to gather. Knot to secure, then trim any excess thread or fabric.

Sophie began designing on paper in 2015, but moved into embroidery after the birth of her second daughter this year. Find her prints and patterns at www.junkandglitter.etsy.com.


Little quilt kits you’re gonna love Available at your local independent quilt retailer


PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSE WILD; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG. PROPS: MERI MERI, WWW.MERIMERI.COM. NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER 36 MONTHS


let's go exploring Get set for adventures galore with Anabella Cahwje’s collectable felt cuties


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HOW TO MAKE… FELT ANIMALS MATERIALS Q100% wool felt sheets in beige, light grey, apricot, yellow and black QEmbroidery thread in beige, light grey, apricot, black, pink, white, yellow and red QPatterned cotton fabric QMatching sewing thread QSewing needle QEmbroidery needle QErasable fabric marker

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QBrown faux fur QSoft toy stuffing QNatural grey wool QFelting needles QLeather finger protectors

These BFFs (Best Felt Friends) are having the most fun day out ever, and they’ve got plenty of souvenirs to show for it. From the biggest bunch of balloons to a camera full of cute selfies, this trio are all about making memories. Sew your own versions, then create a whole scene for a shelf or sideboard in your home, complete with mini accessories. Glue together wool felt balls and a length of wire to make the balloons, or swap the crown, camera and oversized bow between each character. And, if you can bring yourself to give them away (we can’t), these fuzzy pals will make the loveliest heirloom gifts for little ones.

01 Using the templates on page 99, cut a front body piece, a back body piece, two head pieces, four arm pieces and two ears from the light grey felt, and a bow from the patterned fabric for the bunny. 02 For the bear, cut a front body piece, a back body piece, two head pieces, four arm pieces and two ears from the beige felt. Next, cut a camera top and a small camera lens from the grey felt, and also a camera body and a large camera lens from the black felt. 03 For the lion, cut a front body piece, a back body piece, two head pieces, four arm pieces and two ears from the light grey felt, and one crown from the yellow felt. Transfer


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any marks from the templates onto the felt pieces using the marker. 04 To make the bunny, fold one head piece in half with right sides (RS) together and sew the dart closed using whip stitch. Repeat with the second head piece. 05 Place the head pieces with wrong sides (WS) together, aligning the darts. Whip stitch together from point A, around the top of the head, and back down to B, leaving the neckline open. Stuff the head firmly. 06 Place the body pieces with WS together and whip stitch around the outside, leaving the neckline open. Stuff the body firmly, using a knitting needle or similar to push the stuffing into the legs.

07 Sew the head to the body using ladder stitch, stitching securely and tightly around the neck area. Fold each ear in half at the base, pin to the head at the marked points, then whip stitch in place. 08 Place two arm pieces with WS together and whip stitch around the outside, starting on the inside of the arm, and leaving a 1.5cm (5/8") gap. Stuff firmly, then continue stitching to close the seam. Repeat with the remaining two arm pieces. 09 Attach the arms as shown, sewing through the seams across the body, through the inside of the arm, then back across the body again. Pull the thread tight, then repeat another three times. Secure

the thread with a knot between the arm and the body. 10 Using three strands of black embroidery thread, stitch a cross at the top of the face dart to make the nose. For each eye, use three strands of thread and a French knot, wrapping the thread around the needle five times. 11 Roll a small piece of grey wool into a ball and position it over the mark on the back body piece. Wearing finger protectors, jab the wool repeatedly with the felting needle to create a fluffy tail. 12 Fold the bow piece in half with RS together. Sew around the outside, leaving a 2cm (ž") gap along one long edge. Turn RS out, 83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 21


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HOW TO MAKE… FELT ANIMALS then sew a gathering stitch through the middle. Gather the fabric, secure with a knot at the back of the bow, then sew to the bunny’s neck. 13 To make the bear, repeat Steps 5-9. For the nose, use three strands of black thread and vertical satin stitch at the top of the dart. Stitch two diagonal lines either side first as a guide. Add the eyes as per Step 10, then whip stitch the tail to the back body piece where marked. 14 Using the image as a guide, stitch all the camera pieces together with running stitch, except one camera body. Stitch two diagonal lines onto the small camera lens, a red French knot for the shutter button, and a few black satin stitches for the 22 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

view finder. Use running stitch to attach the remaining camera body to the WS of the camera, then sew a length of embroidery thread across the top to act as a strap. 15 To make the lion, repeat Steps 5-7, but don’t attach the ears. Cut a 18 x 4cm (71/8 x 15/8") piece of brown faux fur, then fold the long edges to the WS by 0.5cm (¼"). Fold the fur in half along the length with WS together, and ladder stitch along the open long edge. 16 Pin the fur around the head, following the seam, then sew using ladder stitch. Attach the ears as per Step 7, then repeat Steps 8-9. For the nose, use three strands of black thread and vertical satin stitch at the

top of the dart. Stitch two diagonal lines either side first as a guide. Add the eyes as per Step 10. 17 Cut a 5cm (2") length of apricot embroidery thread and knot the end. Bring the needle in at the side of the body and take it out at the bottom of the back body piece where marked, pulling the knot tightly at the side seam to hide it. 18 Wrap a small piece of fur around the thread to create the tail, 2cm (¾") away from the body, and sew. Trim off any remaining thread. 19 Fold the crown in half along the length with WS together. To join the short edges, alternate whip stitch and cross stitch. Sew onto the mane using the main image for placement.


Anabella Cahwje Born and raised in Buenos Aires, Anabella is now based in Brighton. She works full time creating her heirloom animals and baby mobiles, as well as soft toy patterns. A photography enthusiast, Anabella loves bringing her characters to life with stories on her Instagram @whatacurlylife. www.whatacurlylife.co.uk


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Describe your style in a few words Colourful, bold and joyful.

Living a colourfilled life with...

CATHERINE NICE Kitty McCall homeware designer Catherine Nice takes us behind the scenes at her shop and studio in Folkestone, Kent Words: LOTTIE STOREY Photographs: FIONA MURRAY

In just six years, Catherine Nice has built quite the print design empire. Her studio, Kitty McCall, launched in 2011 when Catherine decided to go it alone after years spent designing for commercial studios. Named after her grandmother, whose regular encouragement on Catherine’s work contributed so much to her career as an artist, Kitty McCall is known for innovative designs in sumptuous colour palettes, inspired by mid-century modern, Bauhaus and artists such as David Hockney and Henri Matisse. 26 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

Catherine uses papercutting and collage to create her vibrant palettes, while the end product is created by local craftsmen using British materials – quality and integrity is a company priority. From lone designer to shop owner – Kitty McCall opened a bricksand-mortar store in Folkstone in 2015 – Catherine’s work is hugely in demand, with brand commissions from the likes of Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters, Toast, Zara, Diane von Fürstenberg and H&M. We caught up with Catherine to find out more about her inspirations.

What’s a typical working day for you? I get up at 6am to go for a run before having breakfast with my husband Gary and the kids. Then it’s chaos trying to get ready on time for school! I head to the shop to check all the orders that need processing for the day, and reply to my emails. Afternoons are when I create artwork for commissions or licensing projects. Gary handles wholesale sales and keeps the business side of Kitty McCall ticking over, which means I spend more time doing what I love – being creative. Tell us about your creative process – do you keep sketchbooks, or do you prefer to use online resources? I like having a permanent moodboard that I keep adding to, rather than a sketchbook. That way, my ideas are visible and not easily forgotten. I’m always looking for new ideas and inspiration, so whenever I find an interesting colour palette or image, I pin it to my moodboard. I always like a little pop of unexpected colour. My current obsessions are landscapes and botanical plant imagery. I mostly draw in ink and then use my computer to add colour and texture – I love the freedom this gives me. My ideas flow much more easily when I


INTRODUCING tea & a chat

‘I like having a permanent moodboard that I keep adding to.’

02

01

can bring everything together and make changes on a whim. Did you have any particular ambitions when you first started out? I just wanted to create prints I loved for products I loved. I never imagined I’d have a shop with customers and brands wanting to buy my products and use my designs! Was working in print and pattern design always your intention? Yes! Art was always my favourite subject Subscribe at molliemakes.com

at school, so much so that I dropped both French and History to pursue only art and design-related subjects. University is where I really found my passion for printed textile design though. Painting ceramics is also one of my favourite crafts.

03

01

colour-loving French painter, one

cushions pop

of Catherine’s

against the dark

favourites. 03

blue walls of the Kitty McCall shop. 02

What are the benefits and the drawbacks to print design? As a medium, it’s totally unrestricted, which I absolutely love. But the drawbacks are the exact same – because there are no restrictions, focusing can be hard.

A riot of colour –

prints, cards and

Matisse Blue is

named after the

It’s not just about

colour. Catherine’s designs begin life as line drawings.

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 27


INTRODUCING tea & a chat

02

Are there any designers or creative heroes you look up to? Absolutely. So much so that I create new designs inspired by their use of shape and colour. David Hockney’s recent exhibition at the Tate was absolutely breathtaking. His use of colour and composition influences me a lot, and the range I’ve designed in tribute is a bold fabric featuring an array of graphic botanical imagery. I’m also a big fan of Henri Matisse – his work just exudes joy, and I love that his body of work was so varied and not limited to one look or style. My Matisse Blue range features a bold graphic landscape design in vibrant blues. As a print designer, I love so many different art mediums and definitely have phases where I am very into, say, abstracts or florals. Georgia O’Keeffe is a big floral inspiration of mine.

01

01

For fans of colour,

Kitty McCall is a grown-up sweet shop. 02

Catherine’s

moodboard is where it all begins. She likes to surround herself with inspiring images. 03

Catherine’s bright

fabric letters were inspired by the birth of her daughter, Ruby.

03

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What’s the most important business lesson you’ve learnt? To begin with the end in mind. Whenever I design a new product I always start at the retail price and work out if the product will be financially viable before committing to production. If the figures don’t add up, the product doesn’t get made. Also, to make sure the customer is happy. While studying, I worked as a barista in a well-known coffee


INTRODUCING tea & a chat

‘David Hockney’s use of colour and composition influences me a lot.’ 02

01

chain, which really taught me about the importance of great customer service. If you were starting up now, is there anything you would do differently? No, I believe you should always look forward. Every decision I’ve made – whether good or bad – has made me the designer I am today. What’s the most difficult part of running Kitty McCall? Getting the work/life balance right. I have Subscribe at molliemakes.com

two young children and being able to drop them off and pick them up from school means I have a small window of time to work. I often work late into the evenings to catch up and stay ahead of my to-do list.

03

01

Catherine is

collage kickstarts

unmistakable in a

Catherine’s ideas.

bright printed dress

A statement

cushion pays

her Folkestone store.

homage to the

02

Tell us your proudest moment so far. Seeing Michelle Obama wearing a print I designed! (The former First Lady wore one of Catherine’s beautiful, bright watercolour print dresses to a Cinco de Mayo celebration in the White House’s Rose Garden in 2010.) I’m also proud that

03

in the doorway of Playing with

papercuts and

Jungle paintings of Henri Rousseau.

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 29


INTRODUCING tea & a chat

02

my artworks, furniture and textiles are all made using UK suppliers and craftsmen. Can you share what projects you’re currently working on? Right now, I’m choosing which pieces of furniture will make it into the Spring/ Summer 2018 collection. I definitely have my favourites, including the Benchair with upholstered arms – it’s a really flexible option that works as a dining chair, a desk chair or in a café or restaurant. In terms of the business, we’re currently looking to expand to a bigger space, where we can showcase more furniture and curated pieces from designers I admire.

01

01

Catherine works on

her designs while the kids are at school and in the evenings. 02

Hockney is inspired

by Catherine’s love of David Hockney.

30 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

Catherine Nice Catherine Nice launched homeware design studio Kitty McCall in 2011. Known for uplifting, joyful prints, Catherine creates unique objects for sale online or in her Folkestone store. Visit the website for her latest products, including fabric, furniture, wall art, cards, wrap and ceramics. www.kittymccall.co.uk

What are your top interior design tips? Layer, layer, layer. Layering prints and patterns in different scales is the perfect way to keep interiors looking modern and interesting. Never go for matchy-matchy! If it doesn’t go, it goes. And, pair pristine, white walls with bold, colourful design. It not only adds warmth, but is a great way of adding character. Finally, what’s the best piece of creative advice you’ve ever been given? Stay true to yourself. It’s very easy to be a magpie and follow what’s popular but it’s far better to be unique and authentic.


Advertorial Promotion

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Design-led and high quality Since 2012, the family-run business has created high quality craft products with a contemporary style. Designed in-house and produced in their workshops in Surrey, Artcuts’ unique lasercut wooden shapes and decorations are now sold and loved worldwide. The Artcuts team take inspiration from simple natural shapes, keeping designs true to their original form. And they’re no less particular about the wood they use. Over the years, they’ve sourced the finest birch wood milled from sustainable Finnish forests and their plywood sheets are made by hand.

The Handmade Fair Stop by Artcuts’ pop-up shop in the East Tent, Stand E17, 15-17 September.

Working on a craft project or making a gift? Artcuts’ quality wooden shapes and decorations will help you to put your own stamp on it From birds and stars to letters and flowers, even the smallest handcrafted wooden shape or embellishment by Artcuts can help you to achieve stylish – and truly memorable – results. Whether you want to create a birthday card, bunting for a baby’s bedroom or an unusual

wedding save the date, the creative possibilities are endless.

Made for crafting Natural wood is perfect for fun and easy creative projects that demand the best quality. You can add a pattern directly onto the wood with simple stamping

or colour it using inks and acrylic paints. It’s the ideal surface for pyrography and marbling, too. Alternatively, you could leave it in its natural state and just add a ribbon for a lovely understated decoration. Artcuts also sells the best craft materials to be used with

its wood. It’s one of the UK’s largest stockists of authentic Japanese Chiyogami paper, and its designers have created pretty embellishments using Liberty fabrics. Plus, it has a comprehensive selection of inks, ribbons, washi tapes and more. So, go on, get creating!

For more information and to buy, visit www.artcuts.co.uk, and for ideas and inspiration, see @artcuts on social media *T&Cs apply. Only one discount per customer, 20% off all goods excluding postage, offer valid until 10.09.17

    


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PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVE CAUDERY; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG; MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA


wild & free

Try botanical bundle dyeing with hand-picked flowers – Babs Behan shows you how

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HOW TO MAKE… A BUNDLE-DYED SCARF MATERIALS Q100% silk cloth QOrganic clear vinegar QDark-coloured flowers QGlass jar with air-tight lid QString QEco detergent (we used Ecover) QPH neutral soap (we used Dr Bronner’s)

Combining artisan crafting and the beauty of flowers, this silk scarf is set to become one of your most treasured makes. A great introduction to the art of bundle-dyeing, eco-printing is a delightful way to connect with nature by using organic textiles and either dried or fresh petals to create a unique fabric effect. All you’ll need to get started are a few kitchen cupboard essentials, and a small 100% silk item, such as a scarf or camisole. Then, once you’re confident with the technique, use it on silk of all shapes and sizes. 01 Simmer the silk in soapy water for an hour to remove any dirt, grease or starch, as this could affect the dye absorption. Be careful not to let the water boil, as this may disrupt the quality of the fibres – try to keep the temperature around 80°C/180°F. 02 Rinse the silk in clean water at least three times to ensure any residue is removed, then dip the silk into a bowl of clear organic vinegar,

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such as apple cider vinegar or white wine vinegar. Alternatively, you can spray the silk using a mister filled with the vinegar. 03 Lay the silk out onto a flat surface, then scatter with either fresh or dried petals – darker flowers, such as red roses or purple hollyhocks, work best. 04 Bundle up the silk by rolling or folding it – it’s nice to experiment with different techniques on different items and see how the results vary. Wrap the bundle securely with string or elastic bands, so the flowers and silk are tightly pressed together. 05 Place the bundle inside an air-tight glass jar, then leave it on

a sunny windowsill for about two weeks. Check it every few days, and if the bundle starts to go mouldy, put the jar in the freezer to kill the mould, then put it back out onto the windowsill. 06 After two weeks, take the bundle from the jar, unwrap it, and shake off the petals. Hang the silk away from direct sunlight for another two weeks to ‘cure’ the colours. 07 Once the fabric has been cured, wash it with a pH neutral soap, rinse it with clean water, then leave it to dry. The fabric will now be ready to wear, but should only ever be handwashed using pH neutral soap and cool water, as anything else may shift the colours.

Babs Behan Babs is an organic artist and designer, and uses plant dyes, drawing inks and printing mediums to create her work. She teaches her techniques via her business, Botanical Inks, but you can find her latest textile design project at www.bristolcloth.co.uk. www.botanicalinks.com


Stitches used Ch. = Chain Dc. = Double crochet Popcorn = Work a cluster of 4 unfinished tr. in the same stitch, yarn over and draw through all loops on your hook. Materials - 3 balls Yarn and Colors Super Must Have colour 098 Graphite - 1 ball Yarn and Colors Super Must Have colour 073 Jade Gravel - 1 ball Yarn and Colors Super Must Have colour 015 Mustard - Crochet hook no. 5mm - Pillow 30x50 cm

Swatch (dc) 10x10 cm = 16 dc x 20 rows

Important information Work 1 turning chain at the end of each row. This chain does not count as a stitch. Rows that are not being described in the pattern below consists of 44 dc. The pattern consists of 4 different type of rows. Row A: Work *1 dc., 1 popcorn, 3 dc., 1 popcorn, 3 dc., 1 popcorn, 12 dc.* Repeat from *to* another 1x. Row B: Work *3 dc., 1 popcorn, 3 dc., 1 popcorn, 14 dc.* Repeat from *to* another 1x. Row C: Work *12 dc., 1 popcorn, 3 dc., 1 popcorn, 3 dc., 1 popcorn, 1 dc.* Repeat from *to* another 1x. Row D: Work *14 dc., 1 popcorn, 3 dc., 1 popcorn, 3 dc.* Repeat from *to* another 1x.

Crochet Pattern Ch. 44 + 1 sts. with colour Graphite. Row 16: A Row 18: B Row 20: A Row 22: B Row 24: A Row 26: Cast off colour Graphite and cast on a new yarn of Jade Gravel on the other side of your work. Row 27: C Row 29: D Row 31: C Row 33: D Row 35: C Row 37: A Row 39: B Row 41: A Row 43: B Row 45: A Row 47: Cast off colour Jade Gravel and cast on a new yarn of colour Graphite, on the same side. Row 79: Cast off colour Graphite and cast on a new yarn of colour Mustard, on the same side. Cast off after row 91. Make another piece the same way. Join the two pieces by working a round of dc. around the 4 different sides. Note that you need to change colour when the colour on the edge changes. Before you join the last side, insert the pillow in the cover.

Save 10% on this yarn! Enter discount code WWYCP10 at www.woolwarehouse.co.uk


ILLUSTRATION: LUCINDA IRELAND


INTRODUCING good read

REDISCOVERING YOUR PASSION We all have creativity within, but what happens if you lose the spark that ignites it? Helen Martin treads new paths to find a solution Words: HELEN MARTIN Illustration: LUCINDA IRELAND

O

ur creativity alone isn’t necessarily a reliable and consistent source of fresh inspiration. In fact, even once bountiful wells can easily run dry. The thrill of picking up an ongoing project can sometimes feel as if it’s completely vanished, leaving a void where you once found fulfilment. But don’t panic if your creative impetus has got up and gone – perhaps it’s simply time to complement your existing craft or project with something new. Outside inspiration and learning different skills might be just what you need to help you create a vibrant and fresh vision.

MAKE IT PERSONAL

London-based photographer Xanthe Berkeley (www. xantheberkeley.com) is a firm believer in the importance of continuously challenging ourselves creatively, and regularly sets herself personal photography projects. “When our creative life becomes routine, we can feel uninspired and even bored by our own work. Shaking things up keeps our work fresh, and setting yourself a challenge makes you show up every day.” Xanthe has found the benefits of projects like this to be multiple. “The discipline of taking photos regularly has improved my photography, and grown my passion for the medium.” She also points out that “the beauty of personal projects is you can create your own brief ”. This is the intention behind the #100dayproject, a social media hashtag prompting makers to create their own spin-off project. Illustrator and designer Lee May Foster-Wilson of Bonbi Forest (www.bonbiforest. com) has just completed #lees100daysofcelebanimals. Lee May, who lives in Cornwall, says: “I challenged myself to draw a new animal every day, whose name can be merged with that of a celebrity.” The illustrations, which included George Racooney, Ernest Lemmingway and Scallop Johansson, added a fun, unpredictable element to Lee May’s Insta feed, while giving her the freedom to experiment with her artwork. Gaining a sense of freedom was precisely the aim of Isabella Strambio (www.twome.co.uk) when she set herself the task of learning 12 new crafts in 12 months, covering everything from macramé to slow

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stitch and Japanese Temari balls. “Crafts can build your confidence and ability to express yourself,” explains Isabella. By attending workshops, reading blogs, and through kits, YouTube videos, books and magazines, she’s been opening up her world and her skill set. “I particularly love workshops,” Isabella says. “For me, face-to-face is the best way to learn from the makers, and also to get inspired.”

LOOK TO YOUR TRIBE

Just being around fellow crafters is often enough to reignite your own creative fire. For Isabella, not only was she able to explore more unusual skills, but her research lead her to meet some incredibly talented women. “ You feel their passion and it can really spark a lot of creativity. They inspire me every day with their amazing skills. It’s this that has pushed me to continue some crafts for longer than a month, with them becoming part of my life and business.” More community-feel projects, such as Instagram’s themed Weekend Hashtag Project – #WHP – or designer Allison Sadler’s #freeupmyinsta, which includes a daily inspirational word to create your image around, can also kickstart a refresh. Search the hashtags to check out your creative tribe’s take on each one, and connect by commenting on images you love. Whether you try a new craft, get involved in a hashtag, write in a journal, go on a tour of museums, or simply walk through the countryside to refresh your inspiration, a new project or pursuit is a chance for you to fearlessly explore your creativity. Jewellery designer Emily Mullen of Forest & Fawn (www.forestandfawn. co.uk) found peace and enjoyment through both craft and exercise. “I spend time running and sewing because there’s no pressure to be any good. Alone time where I can lose myself in something slow and methodical is meditative and sacred,” Emily reflects. The benefits of stepping out of the predictable and comfortable are often plentiful, including those you might not even have considered. As Xanthe says: “Let your creativity take the lead. Unexpected outcomes can be the magical part of a personal project.”

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 37


A handpicked collection of fabrics delivered to your door

www.misformake.co.uk


MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

The denim pinafore Master effortless style with this no-pattern sew – The New Craft House show you how

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83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 39


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HOW TO MAKE… A DENIM PINAFORE MATERIALS Q1.5m (591/8") medium weight fabric (we used Cloud 9 Fabrics Tinted Denim in Flamingo) QMatching sewing thread QPinking shears QElastic, 50cm (19¾"), 3cm (1¼") wide QTailor’s chalk

Dust off your sewing machine and whip up your own version of this pinafore dress quicker than you can click ‘next day delivery’. All over the high street right now, this on-trend piece not only looks good layered over a cropped tee, but it’ll breathe life into last year’s winter woollies, too. We’ve used a denim fabric, but you could opt for canvas, or even corduroy if you want to get a jump on next season’s must-buys. Just make sure to pre-wash your fabric, as it could affect the finished size. 01 Use a tape measure to measure your hips and divide this number by four. This will be the width of the top piece of the pinafore. For the length, measure from your waistline to your armpit. Add on 3cm (1¼") to both measurements to account for the seam allowance, then cut two pieces from the fabric using these measurements.

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02 Place the two pieces of fabric with right sides (RS) together and sew the two side edges and top edge using a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance and turn RS out. Press, then top stitch the three sewn sides, 0.25cm (1/8") in from the edge. 03 Fold the bottom raw edges to the RS by 1.5cm (5/8") and press in place, then put to one side. 04 Measure around the widest point of your hips, divide this number by two, then add on 3cm (1¼") for the seam allowance. This will be the width of the pinafore skirt. The length will be 64cm (25¼"), which will sit just above your knee if you’re 1.68m (5' 6"). If you’re taller, you might want to increase the length by 5-10cm (24"), then try on prior to hemming. Cut a piece of fabric using these measurements for the skirt front. 05 For the skirt back, add 5cm (2") to the width measurement

calculated in Step 4. Cut a piece of fabric using this width, and the length used in Step 4, then finish the long edges on the skirt front and skirt back – the side seams – with pinking shears or zigzag stitch. With RS together and aligning one side seam, sew along the length. Repeat along the second side seam to create the skirt piece. 06 Press the top edge of the skirt to the wrong side (WS) by 1cm (3/8"), then again by 3cm (1¼") to create a channel for the waist elastic. Measure the width of the top piece of the pinafore, then add on 10cm (4"). Mark this measurement along the centre of the skirt front, then pin and sew along the edge of the fold, 0.25cm (1/8") up, and leaving the measured gap unsewn. 07 Measure the width of the top piece and mark the centre, then repeat with the skirt front. Position the WS of the skirt front over the raw edge of the top piece, aligning


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the marked centre points, and overlapping both pieces by 1.5cm (5/8"), as shown. Pin and sew, then turn the dress RS out. 08 Measure around your waist, divide this number by two, then cut a length of elastic to this measurement. Stretch it around your waist to check it isn’t too tight before sewing, as elasticity can vary. Attach a safety pin to one end, then thread the elastic through the gap at one side of the top piece, around the skirt back, then out the other side. Bunch up the fabric on the waistband, then pin and sew both ends of the elastic either side of the top piece. 09 To make the straps, cut four 6 x 100cm (23/8 x 393/8") pieces from the fabric. Place two pieces with RS together, then sew along one long edge and around one short edge, rounding it off. Turn RS out, then press the long open edges under by 1.5cm (5/8") and pin. Top Subscribe at molliemakes.com

stitch around the two long edges and sewn short edge, 0.25cm (1/8") in. Repeat with the remaining two pieces of fabric. 10 Sew a buttonhole at either corner of the top piece, using the image as a guide to positioning. We used a 10p piece to get the right setting on the buttonhole sewing machine foot. Tie the sewn end of both straps into chunky knots, and pass the other end through the buttonholes. 11 Turn the dress over with the back facing up and cross over

the straps. Pin both straps to the inside of the waistband, an equal distance from the centre of the waist, then try it on to check the positioning. Adjust the length or the placement of the straps accordingly, then take off the dress and ensure the straps are evenly pinned. Sew, making sure to only stitch through the waistband fabric and not the elastic. Trim off any excess fabric from the straps. 12 Press the hem of the skirt to the WS by 1cm (3/8"), then again by 3cm (1Âź"). Pin and sew to finish.

The New Craft House Hannah and Rosie run The New Craft House, selling contemporary craft kits and running inspiring creative workshops. Using traditional crafting techniques to create modern products, the pair have been pals since school, and have always been obsessed with making. www.thenewcrafthouse.com

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15-17th September The Green at Hampton Court Palace, Surrey The Handmade Fair is back! Meet the hottest names in contemporary craft and book your tickets today to join their hands-on workshops...

ZEENA SHAH

CHRISTINE LEECH

After completing a BA in printed textile design from Chelsea School of Art, Zeena worked for fashion and interior design companies before setting up her printed textile company in 2009 (www.zeenashah.com). She runs hands-on craft workshops from her East London studio, sharing her passion for all things printed. Join Zeena’s Lino Printing Skills Workshop at 2.30pm every day at The Handmade Fair – secure your space when you book Full Experience tickets online.

Queen of pom poms Christine Leech combines her passion for making with a career in magazine design. An author, maker, designer and illustrator, Christine has written multiple craft books, and blogs at www.sewyeah. co.uk. At this year’s Handmade Fair, Christine is running workshops teaching you how to embellish your favourite items in Swarovski’s Crystal Sweet Shop – prepare for a treasure trove of shimmer and sparkle! The workshops are taking place every day at 1pm – we’ll see you there!

HARRIET DE WINTON

MATT CHAPPLE

Watercolour artist Harriet de Winton is founder of de Winton Paper co design studio (www.dewintonpaperco.com), and a talented artist, illustrator and modern calligraphy expert. Join her to learn how to create simple flowers and leaves with watercolour paints, before turning them into a gorgeous wreath design. The workshops are at 11.30am every day – book to secure your place today.

Fans of The Great British Sewing Bee will recognise Matt Chapple as the 2015 series winner. Since taking part in the show, he’s launched his blog, www.sewwhatsnew.co.uk, and written his debut book, Make It, Own It, Love It (£20, Jacqui Small). He’ll be joining a host of crafty celebrities on stage at the Super Theatre for the Mollie Makes Mash-Ups – a live upcycling challenge against the clock. Join us every day at 12pm for all the action!


EXCLUSIVE TICKET OFFER! PLUS! DON’T MISS… In between learning crafty tips and joining workshops with some of the UK’s brightest creative stars, discover all that The Handmade Fair has to offer. Bigger and better than ever before, this year’s two incredible Shopping Villages are filled with over 300 of the UK’s best handmade sellers. Take inspiration from Kirstie Allsopp and her celebrity guests in the Super Theatre, discover delicious food and drink in the Artisan Marketplace, and cast your vote at the Mollie Makes Mash-Ups, taking place every day!

SUPER THEATRE CELEBRITIES This year, Kirstie Allsopp plays host to an array of some of the biggest celebrities in craft and wellbeing. Join her at the Super Theatre in conversation with Sophie Conran, Annie Sloan and Keith Brymer Jones of The Great Pottery Throw Down. Buy your tickets today to receive a bonus Super Theatre session worth £6, or treat yourself to VIP Tickets for £95 to enjoy priority seating, access to the VIP Lounge, lunch, an exclusive Q&A with Kirstie, VIP workshops and free-flowing bubbly throughout the day!

BOOK YOUR TICKETS AT WWW.THEHANDMADEFAIR.COM USING CODE MOLLIEMAKES FOR YOUR SPECIAL OFFER! • £29 FULL EXPERIENCE TICKETS (SAVING £3) PLUS AN EXTRA SUPER THEATRE FOR FREE (INCLUDES 2 X SUPER THEATRE, 1 X SKILLS WORKSHOP & 1 X GRAND MAKE) • £17 ENTRY + SUPER THEATRE TICKETS (SAVING £3) PLUS A SECOND SUPER THEATRE SESSION FOR FREE • EXCLUSIVE VIP TICKETS: £95 PLUS AN ADDITIONAL FREE SUPER THEATRE SESSION

don’t miss!

THE MOLLIE MAKES MASH-UPS Head to the Super Theatre at 12pm each day for the Mollie Makes Mash-Ups! We’re pitting our favourite crafters against one another in an on-stage crafting challenge – and you get to vote for the winners!

*OFFER DETAILS: Book online at www.thehandmadefair.com or call the ticket hotline on 0871 230 7153. Calls cost 10p per minute plus network extras. Booking fees apply. Offer ends 23.59 on Thursday 14th September. Full Experience tickets cost £29, and Entry + Super Theatre tickets cost £17 with offer code MOLLIEMAKES, saving £3 on face value of £32 and £20 respectively. Additional Super Theatre session offer not valid with Entry Only tickets.


The new Japanese-inspired range from Jazzy Menagerie, comprising of one-of-akind statement brooches, pendants and earrings, incorporates traditional Japanese designs which are given hand-painted glitter accents for a contemporary look. You can view the entire range online or visit us at The Handmade Fair - Stand W115. www.jazzymenagerie.etsy.com www.instagram.com/jazzy_lapin

...a fest f ival of textiles

Satt 30 S S September t b 2017 ¡ 99am - 6pm Farnham Maltings, Bridge Square, Farnham, Surrey, GU9 7QR craft.farnhammaltings.com

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A CURATED MARKETPLACE PROMOTING AND SUPPORTING THE BEST OF UK CREATIVE BUSINESSES Offering business coaching, social media support and so much more to our growing collection of UK independent designers and makers. Pop by to browse the gorgeous collection or for a chat about joining the team.

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LIVING

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INSPIRATION ALERT! SPACES, PLACES & NEW DESIGNERS TO WATCH Work herringbone style into your dining space with Graham & Green’s Amaliah Chevron Dining Table and Bench. Made with mango wood parquet tops and beaten iron legs, the table is plenty big enough to seat six of your favourite people. www. grahamandgreen.co.uk

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Put little ones in the mood for sleepytime with Martin Krusche’s Für Neil Moon Man print – it looks right at home in a modern nursery. Alternatively, add a natural vibe with Desenio’s butterfly print. www.thismodernlife. co.uk; www.desenio.co.uk

GET THE LOOK

Use these Embossed Hanging Brass Frames from Cox & Cox to create a picture wall, filling them with vintage-style prints and postcards. www.coxandcox.co.uk

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MODERN LUXE

The pleasing shape of Tom Dixon’s copper pendant light fitting reminds us of bubbles. Think of it as investment piece for a statement setting, and theme a whole room around the hue. www.tomdixon.net

Go retro with the Crosley Cruiser Pebbled Pink Vinyl Record Player from Urban Outfitters. The handled case means you can enjoy your choons on the go. www.urbanoutfitters.com

We like the idea of being the sort of person who owns a portable drinks station. This Art Deco-inspired Tulip Drinks Trolley from Atkin and Thyme will do nicely. www.atkinandthyme.co.uk


Jode’s range includes intricate jewellery

BRAND FOCUS Jode Pankhurst Ceramicist Jode Pankhurst designs, makes and handdecorates her modern homeware and jewellery designs in her Dalston studio. Her bold colour schemes and minimalist yet playful designs are often accented with gold details and unique paint effects – you can shop the full collection at www. jodepankhurst.bigcartel.com Each ceramic piece is completely unique

Anthropologie’s Plumology Plates come in four seriously tweet designs, each with a different avian theme. Use them to serve up your fanciest desserts (we won’t tell anyone if they aren’t homemade). www.anthropologie.com

WEBSITE TO WATCH m.a.d.e.

These dinky porcelain pots are all hand-decorated

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INSTAGRAM: @JODEPANKHURST

Based in Cirencester, m.a.d.e. – Makers and Designers Emporium – stocks a selection of prints, stationery and jewellery by some of our favourite designers. Find Kitty McCall and Rifle Paper Co. prints, Jimbobart crockery and One & Eight jewellery alongside Meri Meri cards and home accessories on their website. www.made-gallery.com 83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 47


LIVING home tour

Ruth’s lounge is painted in Teresa’s Green by Farrow & Ball. “It’s a sociable colour and a great backdrop for natural history items.”

Ruth Matthews’ Victorian home is filled with pre-loved items and modern finds Words: HOLLY JOHNSON Photography: RACHAEL SMITH

With a blog tagline that promises ‘colour, pattern and patina’, Ruth Matthews’ home was never going to be boring. Describing herself as a “bohemian maximalist with an eclectic taste”, the 100-year-old walls of her three-bed South London semi are decorated with sultry shades of grey, deep Prussian blues and apple greens. Alongside running her interior design blog, Design Soda, Ruth has spent the last two years slowly transforming each room of the house she

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LIVING home tour

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LIVING home tour

DESIGN SECRETS Styling comes naturally to Ruth, but as with anything, there are secrets to be shared. She contrasts colour and form to give visual impact, such as hanging a black print against a white wall, or juxtaposing a round mirror against angular pieces. French interior design magazine Milk Decoration is her inspiration go-to, but she also looks at how things around her are put together.

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shares with husband Dan, son Ted and cat Dinah. As well as taking inspiration from all the usual places – magazines, Instagram, Pinterest – Ruth is constantly inspired by what’s around her, too. “I love to visit cafés and see how elements of their design can be incorporated into a home. Even seeing what people are wearing on the Tube, and how they’ve paired colours and shapes together can lead me to think about my own home décor,” she explains. As with many house moves, Ruth and Dan’s decision to buy a new home was driven by the need for more space. “We’d always lived in apartments, but after our son arrived we wanted a garden, so we traded in a trendy and vibrant area of the capital for more space and less noise,” smiles Ruth, whose son Ted is now two. But it wasn’t an easy purchase. The couple bid on 13 houses before they finally had an offer 50 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

accepted, which left little room for pickiness. “We didn’t know very much about the property until we moved in,” says Ruth. “There was no time for photos or second viewings as the competition was so stiff!” Luckily, no major work was needed, which meant that Ruth has been able to focus on her favourite part of the process – the design. Despite having no formal training in the subject, Ruth has grown a strong following for her interiors blog, which she’s been running for the past four years. “Interior design is really an open book if you have an eye and a determination,” she tells us. “I’ve always been interested in interiors, and after studying History at the University of London, I developed a love of the different design eras too.” This love of the past is evident throughout her home. Mid-century sideboards and weatherworn shelves are filled with carefully curated

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Each room is

bought to life with a verdant array of potted plants and succulents. 02

Ruth bought this

vintage school desk back from France, and upcycled it with bright green paint.


The home office has a vintage modernist vibe, evoking the feel of an old student library. “I wanted a space that felt serious to me,� says Ruth.


LIVING home tour

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displays of ephemera, and flea market finds sit alongside butterfly taxidermy and colourful old kitchen tins. “I love combining vintage and modern pieces with natural history elements,” she says. “A lot of our furniture is vintage, and I like to break things up with accents of kitsch and the unexpected.” The effect is a warm and inviting space that sparks interest at every turn. When shopping for homeware, Ruth’s favourite shops are surprisingly modern. “I shop everywhere! I love Made, Swoon Editions, Smug and Skandium, but I’m equally at home rummaging in flea markets for overlooked treasures as I am browsing high-end design, or picking out homewares in supermarkets.” Despite making it sound easy, Ruth invests a lot of time and research into creating a cohesive plan for each new room. “I think about colour and texture, and create a moodboard of era and style ideas before I commit to anything.” When 52 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

it comes to colour, Ruth favours the bold and advises “always go with your gut instinct”. As the blog has grown, Ruth’s home has become her place of work, too. “This is the first time I’ve had a home office!” she laughs. “What started as a hobby, and a platform to explore what I liked, has expanded to become something that preoccupies much of my time.” And, with Ruth’s keen eye for design, and innate ability to curate beautiful spaces, we can see why.

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Ted has a room filled with displays of quirky toys. 02

The bedroom is

a retreat from the world, with whitewashed walls and Scandi-style furniture.

Ruth Matthews Ruth runs interior design blog Design Soda, which won a Pinterest Interiors Award earlier this year. You can buy homeware items that she “owns, loves or lusts after” at her online shop at www.designsoda.co.uk/shop. www.designsoda.co.uk


California dreaming Create casual boho vibes with Amy Mullins and Marnia Ryan-Raison’s macramé shelf

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HOW TO MAKE… A MACRAMÉ PLANT HOLDER MATERIALS QRope, 74m (81 yrds), 0.5cm (¼") diameter QMetal ring, 8cm (31/8") diameter QTwo pieces of pine wood, 18.5 x 48 x 2cm (73/8 x 187/8 x ¾") QDrill Q1.5cm (5/8") wood drill bit QFine sandpaper QWood stain

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Evoke laid-back Californian style by combining the natural textures of yarn and wood with the retro feel of macramé. For the ultimate in modern bohemian décor, adorn your hanging shelf with a selection of greenery. Or, if you haven’t got a plant obsession like Team Mollie, use it to display your most Instaworthy books, prints and trinkets. Make sure to buy a wall plug and screw with a minimum 10kg load for hanging your shelf, taking into account the weight of the items you’ll put on it. And, turn to page 99 before starting to familiarise yourself with the knots used.

01 Mark a point at each corner on both wood pieces, 2cm (¾") from either side. Drill holes at the marked points, then lightly sand the wood to remove any rough edges. Stain to the desired colour, then leave to dry. 02 Cut a 2m (787/8") length of rope and, following the instructions on page 99, secure one end onto the metal ring with a double half hitch knot. Using the long end of the rope, wrap it around the ring to cover it completely, leaving just enough space to secure the end with another double half hitch knot sitting next to the first one. Trim off any excess rope.

03 Cut the remaining length of rope into eight 9m (10 yrds) pieces, then fold all eight in half over the inside of the ring, covering the double half hitch knots. Separate the ropes into three consecutive groups: Group 1, containing four ropes, Group 2, containing eight ropes, and Group 3, containing four ropes. 04 For the first section, use the ropes from Group 1 and Group 3 as the working cords – the cords used to create the knot – and those from Group 2 as the filler cords – the non-working cords around which the working cords are tied. Following the instructions on page


99, tie a 16-cord half knot spiral with eight half knots. 05 Separate the cords into four groups of four. Drop down 1.5cm (5/8") and tie each of the four groups into a four-cord half knot spiral with 64 half knots. 06 Positioning the first shelf horizontally, thread the four cords from each of the half knot spirals through each of the drilled corner holes. Turn the shelf upside down and, following the instructions on page 99, loosely tie each group of cords with an overhand knot to secure the shelf in place at each corner. Turn the shelf the right way up to make sure it’s level – it might Subscribe at molliemakes.com

be easier to hang the shelf while you do this – then adjust or tighten the knots accordingly. 07 Directly beneath each overhand knot, tie each of the four groups of cords into a four-cord half knot spiral with 32 half knots.

08 Repeat Step 6 with the second shelf, threading the four cords through each of the holes and knotting to secure them in place, then trim the cords to 5.5cm (2¼"). To finish, fray the ends by separating out each strand.

Reader offer This project appears in Macrame for Beginners and Beyond by Amy Mullins and Marnia RyanRaison, published by SewandSo, a division of F&W (£14.99). To purchase a copy at the special price of £9.99 including free UK P&P, call 01206 255777 quoting IM3117. Offer ends 15th October 2017. For more information, please visit www.sewandso.co.uk.

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G E T T H E L AT E S T I S S U E ! WELLBEING

PA P E R A R TS

RECIPES

C R E AT I V I T Y

T RAV E L

Welcome to our beautiful magazine packed with creative projects & ideas, gorgeous photography and insightful features. Discover new ways to bring the joys of mindfulness & making into your life. £9.99*

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2017

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Four exclusive seasonal moon prints on quality card.

Six cut-out card tags to add to special gifts.

Retro space age moon phase poster to hang up at home.

Three sheets of Liven up your ready-to-make journals & gifts with origami globe decorations. fruity stickers.

ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY O R D E R O N L I N E W W W. B U Y S U B S C R I P T I O N S . C O M / C R A F T S P E C I A L O R CA L L 03 3 3 0 16 2 13 8 A N D QUOT E ‘CA L M 5 P R I N T 1 ’ Lines open weekdays 8am to 8pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm. Overseas please call +44 (0) 3330 162 138. * EUR price £11.99, ROW price £12.99. All prices include P&P. Please allow up to 28 days for delivery.


Interior update

PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVE CAUDERY; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG

Earn yourself serious style points with Lindsey Newns’ paper yarn belly basket

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HOW TO MAKE… A CROCHET BELLY BASKET MATERIALS QRico Creative Paper, 100% paper fibres, 50g/55m per ball, four balls in Candy Mix (014) (Yarn A) QPaintbox Yarns Simply DK mini ball, 100% acrylic, 10g/28m per ball, one ball each in Light Champagne (102) (Yarn B) and Mustard Yellow (123) (Yarn C) Q6mm (UK 4, US J/10) crochet hook Q5cm (2") pom pom maker QYarn needle TENSION Tension is not important, but the stitches need to be tight enough for the basket to keep its shape ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) ch chain ss slip stitch dc double crochet inc increase by working 2 dc in next st yrh yarn round hook BLO work stitch through back loop only FLO work stitch through front loop only 58 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

 dc2tog double crochet 2 together – (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook magic ring to make a magic ring, hold yarn in your hand and wrap working yarn around forefinger twice to create ring, slip ring off your finger and insert hook to pick up first st, ch1, then work the necessary sts for Round 1 and close ring tightly by pulling the loose end rep repeat crab stitch insert hook into next st on the right from front to back, yrh and draw loop through (2 loops on hook), yrh and draw through both loops on hook FINISHED SIZE Approx. 35 x 35cm (13¾ x 13¾")

The belly basket is the must-have storage item of 2017. We’ve used Rico Creative’s innovative paper yarn in a variegated shade for our colour-pop version, giving pattern and texture with minimum effort. Crochet with paper yarn as you would normal yarn, but keep your stitches as tight as possible to give the basket its structure – if yours are working up loose, try going down a hook size. Instructions The basket is made in rounds, joined at the end by ss into the first st (not a spiral). Each round begins with a ch1 – this does not count as a stitch. Do not turn your work. Unless stated, this pattern uses concise crochet, e.g. 3dc means work 1dc into each of next 3 sts. Round 1 using Yarn A, start with a magic ring, 6dc into ring, pull ring tight, ss into 1st dc to join [6sts] Round 2 ch1, inc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [12sts] Round 3 ch1, *1dc, inc; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [18sts] Round 4 ch1, *2dc, inc; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [24sts] Round 5 ch1, *3dc, inc; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [30sts]

Round 6 ch1, 2dc, inc, *4dc, inc; rep from * until last 2 sts, 2dc, ss into 1st dc to join [36sts] Round 7 ch1, *5dc, inc; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [42sts] Round 8 ch1, 3dc, inc, *6dc, inc; rep from * until last 3 sts, 3dc, ss into 1st dc to join [48sts] Round 9 ch1, *7dc, inc; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [54sts] Round 10 ch1, 4dc, inc, *8dc, inc; rep from * until last 4 sts, 4dc, ss into 1st dc to join [60sts] Round 11 ch1, *9dc, inc; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [66sts] Round 12 ch1, 5dc, inc, *10dc, inc; rep from * until last 5 sts, 5dc, ss into 1st dc to join [72sts] Round 13 ch1, 1dc in BLO of each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [72sts] Round 14 ch1, 1dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [72sts] Round 15 ch1, *11dc, inc; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join dc [78sts] Round 16 ch1, 1dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [78sts] Round 17 ch1, 6dc, inc, *12dc, inc; rep from * until last 6 sts, 6dc, ss into 1st dc to join [84sts] Round 18 ch1, 1dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [84sts] Round 19 ch1, *13dc, inc; rep from


* to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [90sts] Round 20 ch1, 1dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [90sts] Round 21 ch1, 7dc, inc, *14 dc, inc; rep from * until last 7 sts, 7dc, ss into 1st dc to join [96sts] Round 22 ch1, 1dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [96sts] Round 23 ch1, *7dc, inc; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [108sts] Round 24 ch1, 4dc, inc, *8dc, inc; rep from * until last 4 sts, 4dc, ss into 1st dc to join [120sts] Round 25 ch1, *2dc in FLO, inc in FLO; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [160sts] Round 26 ch1, *dc2tog in BLO, 2dc in BLO; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [120sts] Round 27 ch1, 4dc, dc2tog, *8dc, dc2tog; rep from * until last 4 sts, 4dc, ss into 1st dc to join [108sts] Round 28 ch1, *7dc, dc2tog; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [96sts] Round 29 ch1, 7dc, dc2tog, *14dc, dc2tog; rep from * until last 7 sts, 7dc, ss into 1st dc to join [90sts] Round 30 ch1, 1dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [90sts] Round 31 ch1, *13dc, dc2tog; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [84sts] Round 32 ch1, 1dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [84sts] Subscribe at molliemakes.com

Round 33 ch1, 6dc, dc2tog, *12dc, dc2tog; rep from * until last 6 sts, 6dc, ss into 1st dc to join [78sts] Round 34 ch1, 1dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [78sts] Round 35 ch1, *11dc, dc2tog; rep from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc to join [72sts] Round 36 ch1, 1dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [72sts] Round 37 rep Round 36 Round 38 ch1, 23dc. Working in reverse direction: ch1, 10 crab sts into previous 10 sts worked, ss in next stitch to the right. Working in the normal direction: ch20, miss ss and 10 crab sts, ss into ch1 made at start of crab section, 36dc. Working in reverse direction: ch1, 10 crab sts in previous 10 sts worked, ss in next stitch to the right. Working in the normal direction: ch20, miss ss and 10 crab sts, ss into ch1 made at start of crab section, 13dc, ss into 1st dc to join Round 39 ch1. Working in reverse direction: crab st in each st around,

including working in the ch sts of the handles, ss into 1st ch to join Weave in any ends. Following the pom pom maker instructions, make two pom poms in Yarn B and two pom poms in Yarn C, leaving a tail of two strands when you tie them off. Use the tail to attach the pom poms to the front of the basket, using the main image as a guide, and tying each pom pom around the post of one dc from Round 35. Finishing The basket may need some gentle stretching to shape it and give it height. If so, hold the bottom of the basket (where the BLO stitches were made) with one hand, and the widest section of the basket with your other hand, then gently pull your hands apart. Repeat around the circumference of the basket. Still holding the widest section of the basket, move your other hand to the top and gently pull again, repeating around the basket.

Lindsey Newns Lindsey is a UK-based crochet designer with a love of fun crochet makes. Visit her blog for free patterns and to link through to her YouTube channel, and check out her Instagram @lottieandalbert for inspiration. www.lottieandalbert.blogspot.com

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PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES GARDINER


hide and seek Set up camp for your wild things with Hester van Overbeek’s play tent

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HOW TO MAKE… A PLAY TENT MATERIALS Q3m (1181/8") patterned cotton fabric (we used Cloud 9 Fabrics Stay Gold in Ponies Mist) Q1m (393/8") of contrasting cotton fabric (we used Windham Fabrics Maribel in Petite Flowers Yellow) QYellow ribbon, 50cm (19¾") QThree pieces of wooden dowel, 116cm (45 7/8"), 1.5cm (5/8") diameter QHemming tape

 QJigsaw QCushion pad, 40 x 45cm (15¾ x 18") QFour pieces of smooth planed timber, 14.4 x 1.8 x 100cm (5¾ x ¾ x 393/8") QSandpaper QDrill Q1.5cm (5/8") drill bit QChain, 20cm (77/8") QFour small screws

Hester van Overbeek Hester films a weekly craft video in her Ramsgate studio, posting innovative tutorials such as upcycling old doors into wardrobes. She also writes craft books – her latest creative title is Making Concrete Pots, Bowls and Platters. www.hestershandmadehome.com

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Relive the childhood glee of building a den with this fun, foldaway play tent. Complete with mini window (for spying, obviously) and a matching cosy cushion, we wish we were little enough to squeeze ourselves inside. Pitch it in a kids’ bedroom or playroom, then remove the dowels and fold up the fabric to pack it away when they’re done. Although we imagine it’ll be a quite a while before the novelty wears off… For the tent 01 Cut the patterned fabric into a 2m (787/8") piece and a 1m (393/8") piece. Put the 1m (393/8") piece to one side and zigzag stitch around all four edges of the 2m (787/8") piece. 02 Fold a 1cm (3/8") hem to the wrong side (WS) along all four edges, then use hemming tape and an iron to secure them in place. 03 Fold both short edges to the WS by 8cm (31/8") and pin. Sew along the

short edges at both ends to create two pockets for the dowels. 04 To make the window, cut a 30 x 30cm (117/8 x 117/8") square from the contrasting fabric. Fold a 1cm (3/8") hem to the WS along all four edges, pin in place and sew. 05 On the large patterned fabric piece, mark 50cm (19¾") in from the centre of one short edge. Pin the window centrally over this point, then sew around all four sides. 06 Measure and mark a 27 x 27cm (105/8 x 105/8") square in the centre of the window, then cut it out. Make 1cm (3/8") diagonal cuts in each corner, then fold 1cm (3/8") to the WS to hem. Pin and sew. 07 Cut two 7 x 30cm (2¾ x 117/8") strips from the contrasting fabric. Fold both strips in half along the length, open out, then fold the long edges to the centre. Fold in half along the length again, hiding the raw edges, then pin and sew 0.5cm (¼") in from the open long edge.


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08 Place one strip horizontally and one vertically to make a cross shape, pin at the centre and sew. Pin the four raw edges to the WS of the window frame, positioning it centrally within the square, and sew. 09 To make the curtain, cut a 29 x 60cm (11½ x 235/8") piece of contrasting fabric. Fold in half along the length with right sides (RS) facing, then pin and sew along the three open edges, leaving a 15cm (6") gap for turning. Turn RS out, press, then sew the gap closed. 10 Cut the ribbon in half along the length, then lay each piece vertically across the window, roughly 7cm (2¾") in from either side, and with 15cm (61/8") overhanging the top of the window. 11 Lay out the curtain on top of the window, aligning the edges with the window frame. Pin and sew along the top edge, securing the ribbon, then roll up the curtain up and use the ribbon ends to tie it back.

12 At the end of each length of timber, mark a point 6cm (23/8") in from the centre of one short edge. Drill the six holes where marked, then sand off any rough edges. Check to make sure the holes are the same width as the dowel. 13 Using a jar lid or similar, mark a curved shape at the end of each timber piece. Carefully cut around the curve with a jigsaw, then sand the edges until smooth. 14 Cut the length of chain in half. Place two pieces of timber side by side, aligning the ends, then mark a point 15cm (6") in from the centre on the two aligned ends. Screw either end of one chain to these points, then repeat with the remaining chain and timber. 15 Cross over the ends of the timber nearest the chain, aligning the holes. Thread either end of a length of dowel through both, creating the top of the tent frame – the chain should be facing inwards.

16 Drape the tent fabric over the frame, RS out. Thread a length of dowel through one hole at the base of the frame, through the channel sewn in the fabric, then out through the other hole at the back of the frame. Repeat on the opposite side to secure the tent fabric in place.

For the cushion 17 Cut a 40 x 45cm (15¾ x 17¾") piece of patterned fabric and two 40 x 32.5cm (15¾ x 12¾") pieces of contrasting fabric. Fold one long edge on both contrasting fabric pieces to the WS by 1cm (3/8"), pin in place and sew. 18 Place the patterned fabric piece RS up. Position the contrasting fabric pieces on top, RS down and aligning the raw edges, so the hemmed edges overlap. Pin and sew along all four sides, 1cm (3/8") in from the edge. 19 Turn the cushion cover RS out and insert the cushion pad to finish. 83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 63


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Laundry day

PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVE CAUDERY; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG

Keep it clean with The Fold Line’s handy ‘wash’ and ‘wear’ drawstring bags

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HOW TO MAKE… A LAUNDRY BAG MATERIALS Q50 x 135cm (19¾ x 531/8 ") medium weight fabric (we used Woven Melon with White Abstract Leaves from www. stoff stil.co.uk) Q130cm (513/8 ") grey cotton cord, 1cm (3/8 ") wide QGold iron-on letters (we got ours from www. thevillage haberdashery.co.uk) QBaking paper QMatching sewing thread

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Make room in your holiday luggage for these nifty drawstring bags. They might not seem like a vacay essential, but if you’ve ever been faced with the task of figuring out what’s clean and what’s not when you get home (and just chucked it all in the wash), you’ll love this genius idea. Made in a fresh coral fabric and embellished with gold lettering, airing your dirty laundry has never been so glamorous. And, they’ll come in just as handy at home as they will abroad, hung on the back of a bedroom or utility room door. 01 Cut four 30 x 40cm (117/8 x 15¾") pieces for the main bag and four 30 x 7cm (117/8 x 2¾") pieces for the drawstring casing from the fabric. 02 Pin two main bag pieces with right sides (RS) together, then sew using a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance, leaving one short edge open. Use an overlocker or zigzag stitch to finish the seam allowance along the three sewn edges. 03 Use an overlocker or zigzag stitch to finish the short edges on

two drawstring casing pieces. Press all four short edges to the wrong side (WS) by 1cm (3/8") and sew. 04 With WS together, fold both drawstring casing pieces in half along the length and press. Pin the raw long edges together and sew using a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance. 05 Turn the bag RS out and press. Pin a drawstring casing along the length of either side of the top opening of the bag, aligning the raw edges, then sew within the seam allowance. 06 Use an overlocker or zigzag stitch to finish the seam allowance at the top of the bag. Fold up the drawstring casing so the bag is RS out, with the seam allowance positioned on the WS of the bag.

07 Press the top of the bag, then top stitch 0.25cm (1/8") down from the seam to secure it in place. 08 Repeat Steps 2-7 to make the second laundry bag. 09 Cut the length of cord in half, then thread one length through both drawstring casing channels on one bag. Knot the ends, then repeat with the remaining length of cord and the other bag. 10 Position the iron-on lettering onto the front of either bag. We spelt out ‘to wash’ on one bag, and ‘to wear’ on the other. 11 Place a sheet of baking paper over the letters and press in place. Leave the glue to dry for approximately five minutes before removing the baking paper.

The Fold Line Rachel and Kate turned their passion for sewing into The Fold Line, an online sewing community for the new tribe of dressmakers. Search for patterns, inspiration and resources on their blog. www.thefoldline.com


EXCLUSIVE PAPERS! Botanical watercolour prints and patterns to use as gift wrap or washi-tape to your walls. Share your makes using #molliemakers Illustrations: CHLOE HALL WWW.CHLOE-HALL.CO.UK


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OH, YOU PRETTY THINGS! MOODBOARDS & MUSINGS TO INSPIRE US

Just because we’re creeping towards autumn, it doesn’t mean it’s time to abandon brights. Add a zing of colour with Talking Tables’ Fluorescent Floral collection. We’re already planning on working the dip-dye candles into a festive neon tablescape. www.talkingtables.co.uk

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Club TropiCana Add fun and sunshine to your home with Teri Muncey’s decoupage fruit bowl


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HOW TO MAKE… A DECOUPAGE BOWL MATERIALS QWooden bowl QPVA glue QWhite paint QGold paint QPatterned wrapping paper QLarge paint brush QSmall paint brush QSpray paint QBlack marker pen

Want your fruit bowl to be as colourful as the rainbow of healthy treats inside? Then give Teri’s purse-friendly make a go. Using vibrant patterned paper to decoupage a plain wooden bowl – we got our tropical print from Paperchase – it’s a quick and easy way to style a new accessory for your home. If bold brights aren’t your thing, opt for a monochrome vibe instead. Or, rummage around at the back of your cupboard and mix and match designs from whatever wrap you have to hand. 01 Take the bowl and spray paint out into a well-ventilated area, and

Teri Muncey Teri is a DIY and interiors blogger, and spends her free time dreaming up new craft tutorials from her cosy flat in West London. A self-confessed stationery and typography nerd, you can find Teri’s prints and designs on her website.

www.thelovelydrawer.com

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cover the surface you’ll be painting on with a bin liner or newspaper. Turn the bowl upside down and evenly cover the base using a thin layer of spray paint. Leave to dry, then continue adding layers to achieve an even coverage, letting the paint dry thoroughly in between each one. 02 Neatly cut out shapes from the patterned wrapping paper. You can either use a repeat pattern from one roll of paper, or combine different motifs and shapes from a selection of papers. 03 Once you’ve finished cutting out the shapes, lay them out on a flat surface, arranging them as you’d like them to appear on the bowl. Think about how the different shapes will fit together in the spaces, and also how the colours will work next to each other. 04 Making sure the bowl is dry, place it upside down near the shapes. Using the PVA glue and the small paint brush, glue each shape onto the bowl as per the

arrangement. If needed, cut out more shapes to fill any gaps, then wash the brush thoroughly. 05 Once you’re happy with the placement of the shapes, use the marker pen to make evenly distributed markings around the bowl. We drew on small scatterings of dashes, but you could use dots, triangles, or anything else you feel fits with the look of the design. 06 Using the small paintbrush and white paint, add a second set of markings in the gaps between the black patterns made in Step 5. Put the bowl to one side to dry, and wash the brush thoroughly. 07 Once dry, paint over the base using the large paint brush and PVA glue. This will seal the finished design, and also give the outside of the bowl a glossy finish. Leave to dry thoroughly. 08 Turn the bowl the right way up, then use the small paint brush and gold paint to evenly coat the rim of the bowl. Leave to dry, then apply another layer of paint if necessary.


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PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSE WILD; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG; MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA


Eye candy Satisfy your cravings with Charlotte Smith’s delectable statement necklace

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HOW TO MAKE… A BEADED NECKLACE MATERIALS QNine Orchid Polaris long drop beads (we got all our beads and fixings from www. bijouxbeads.co.uk) Q12 Long Grass Green drop beads QFive Yellow Czech glass nugget beads Q12 Gold round metal beads, 3mm (¼") Q30 Grey Lustre Glass Cushion beads, 6 x 4mm (¼ x 1/8") QExtra long headpins QJump rings, 0.5cm (¼") QBeading wire, 50cm (19¾")

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QFour gold crimps QTwo gold calotte findings QMint ribbon, 120cm (471/8"), 1.5cm (5/8") wide QTwo gold long ribbon ends QRound nose pliers QChain nose pliers QWire cutters

This necklace is one of those need-it-now pieces you wouldn’t be able to resist on the high street. Made using candy-coloured drop beads and nugget beads, Charlotte’s combined a variety of textures and finishes for a statement make that looks like it’s straight from the sweetie jar. Instantly updating any outfit, this pastel-hued gem is a wardrobe winner. Glam it up by wearing with a classic LBD, or pair it with a plain white tee and a slick of pink lippy for a fresh, fun vibe. 01 This necklace uses a wire loop technique, repeated several times to create different beaded droplets. To create a loop in the wire, leave 1cm (3/8") of wire sticking out the top of the bead and snip off the rest. Pinch the very end of the wire between a pair of round nose pliers, then with the bead

securely in one hand, and the pliers and wire in another, twist the wire around the pliers, creating a loop. You may need to reinsert the pliers to create a complete loop when you can’t them twist anymore. 02 To make the pink droplets, thread the pink beads onto a head pin, with the flat end sitting under the widest point of the bead. Snip off the excess wire and put it to one side, then create a loop at the top of the bead as per Step 1. 03 Take a strand of excess wire and create a loop at one end. Thread on a yellow and a grey bead, then create another loop above. Open the loop on one pink bead with a pair of pliers, thread it onto the yellow end of a yellow and grey bead string, then close the loop. 04 Repeat Step 3, then repeat twice more adding two pink beads to the strand, and once more adding three pink beads to the strand.


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05 Make the green droplets as per Step 2. Take a strand of excess wire and create a loop at one end. Thread on a gold bead, a grey bead, then another gold bead, and create another loop above. 06 Attaching the green beads to the gold and grey bead strands as per Step 3, create the following: two bead strings with three green beads, two bead strings with two green beads, and two bead strings with one green bead. 07 Thread the beads onto the length of beading wire, working from the central bead outwards so the necklace is symmetrical. The pattern from the centre out is: droplet with three pink beads, two spacer beads, droplet with three green beads, two spacer beads, droplet with two pink beads, two spacer beads, droplet with two green beads, two spacer beads, droplet with one pink bead, one

spacer bead, droplet with one green bead, one gold bead. 08 Keeping the beads in the centre of the wire, thread a crimp onto either end. Squeeze one crimp flat using a pair of pliers, then lift the opposite end so the beads sit against each other. Push the other crimp flush to the beads, and squeeze it flat to secure in place. 09 Thread a calotte onto either end and, making sure the crimps are sitting within the cups of the calottes, tightly squeeze them closed with a pair of pliers. Pull the crimp to ensure it’s securely

fastened, then trim the excess wire. Gently close the cups of the calottes to hide the crimps. 10 Cut the length of ribbon in half. Place one end of one ribbon length between the teeth of a ribbon end and squeeze it closed, then fasten the ribbon end to a calotte with a jump ring. To open and close the jump ring, take it between a pair of pliers with the opening facing upwards. Use another pair of pliers to gently twist the jump ring open, then to close, twist it in the other direction. Repeat with the second ribbon and ribbon length to finish.

Charlotte Smith Charlotte is a designer-maker, and lives by the sea with her husband and baby. She’s dedicated her life to the pursuit of collecting treasure and turning the unloved into something beautiful, and is able to sniff out a bead shop anywhere. www.lottsandlots.com

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Makers’ spaces

PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVE CAUDERY; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG

Style up your creative corner with Anna Alicia’s sewing machine cover and matching tag


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HOW TO MAKE… A SEWING MACHINE COVER AND TAG MATERIALS QTailor’s chalk For the cover Q1m (393/8") patterned medium weight fabric (we used Cotton and Steel Les Fleurs by Rifle Paper Co. in Rosa Floral Natural) Q1m (393/8") plain light weight fabric Q1m (393/8") cotton wadding Q1m (393/8") bias binding tape QMatching sewing thread For the tag Q100% wool felt, 3mm (1/8") thick QClear vinyl, 5 x 7.5cm (2 x 3") QThin card QMatching sewing thread Q40cm (15¾") bias binding tape QRotary cutter 86 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

Fancy up your craft space with the prettiest of sewing machine covers. Whether you’re lucky enough to have a dedicated room for your crafting supplies, or have settled for an Insta-worthy #cornerofmyhome, this make will add a pop of colour while keeping your machine dust-free. The pockets at the front are just the right size for stashing bobbins, spools of thread and other precious haberdashery treasures. And, you could even adapt the pattern to add them at the back, too. Simply cut an extra pocket piece in Step 2, then attach it to the back piece in the same way as you do the front. Making the cover 01 Measure the machine, writing down the height (not including the handle), width and depth, making sure to include any parts that stick out. Add 1cm (3/8") to each of the measurements to make sure the cover isn’t too snug. 02 Using the measurements, mark out the following pieces on both

the outer and lining fabrics, adding a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance around each one: Front piece – width x height Back piece – width x height Two side pieces – depth x height Top piece – width x depth Pocket piece – width x 12cm (4¾") Cut out each piece, then use these as a guide to cut the same from the wadding. Place a lining fabric piece on top of each matching wadding piece with right sides (RS) up. 03 Place the lining and patterned pocket pieces with RS together, keeping the wadding underneath the lining fabric. Position the three layers with the fabric pattern facing the right way up, then pin and sew along the top long edge. 04 Open the fabrics out along the seam, and fold the patterned fabric over the wadding so both are RS out. Press, then fold the bias binding over the top long edge. Pin and sew 0.25cm (1/8") up from the bottom edge of the binding. 05 Mark out a rectangle slightly larger than the handle on the

wrong side (WS) of the top piece of patterned fabric. Measure the machine and fabric to check the positioning, then lay the marked fabric on top of the machine to double check. Draw a cross from corner to corner on the marked rectangle, then cut along the cross. 06 Fold back the cut triangles to the WS to form a rectangular opening, pin in place and trim. Repeat with the lining/wadding top piece, then use zigzag stitch to sew around the edges of the opening on both pieces. 07 With RS facing up and pattern right way up, align the bottom edge of the pocket piece with the bottom edge of the patterned front piece and pin in place. Next, with RS together and pattern right way up, pin one long edge of a side piece to a short edge on the front piece. Repeat with the second side piece and the other short edge, then pin the back piece to the two side pieces in the same way. Sew along all four pinned seams using a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance.


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08 With RS together, pin the top piece to the top edges of the front and side pieces. Sew using a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance, taking care to keep the corners neat. Pin and sew the lining/wadding pieces together in the same way, then trim the seam allowance. 09 Turn the patterned outer piece RS out. Measure the length of the pocket and mark the centre, then sew a line from the bottom edge of the pocket to the top. Next, slip the lining piece inside the outer piece with WS together and the wadding sandwiched between the two. 10 Match up the rectangular holes at the top of the cover and pin. Cut enough of the binding to go around the edge of the rectangle and overlap by 2cm (ž"), then fold one end under by 1cm (3/8") and press. Starting at the back of the rectangle, fold the binding over the edges and pin. End by overlapping the folded edge of the binding over the raw edge, then sew. 11 Fold the bottom edge of the outer piece to the WS by 1.5cm

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(5/8") and press. Repeat with the lining piece, then align the bottom edges and pin in place. Sew around all four edges, 0.5cm (Âź") in from the edge. Making the tag 12 Using the templates on page 99, cut a tag front and tag back from felt, using a rotary cutter or craft knife to cut out the rectangular hole in the tag front. Cut a tag insert from clear vinyl and card. 13 With the tag front WS up, position the vinyl over the hole and pin in place. Sew around the rectangular hole, 0.25cm (1/8") in from the edge, then place the

tag back on top, WS together and aligning the raw edges. Sew around the three straight sides, 0.25cm (1/8") in from the edge. 14 Fold the ends of the bias binding to the WS by 1cm (3/8"), press, then fold in half along the length. Pin and sew along both long edges, 0.25cm (1/8") in. 15 Cut a 1.5cm (5/8") wide slit across the curved edge of the tag, 1cm (3/8") down from the edge. Pass the length of binding through the slit, then sew the short ends. Sew the two lengths of binding together 0.5cm (Âź") up from the curved edge of the tag, then slot the piece of card inside to finish.

Anna Alicia Anna lives in East London with her artist husband, their baby, and a multitude of houseplants. The designer-maker behind eco-ethical jewellery and homeware label A Alicia, Anna is also the author of Make it Your Own, a gorgeous interiors craft book featuring 25 creative projects. www.aalicia.bigcartel.com

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FROM THE MAKERS OF LOVE PATCHWORK & QUILTING MAGAZINE Packed with over 30 projects! From heirloom quilts to quick weekend makes, there’s something to suit everyone, from beginners to experienced quilters. Filled with techniques to complete your quilting repertoire, including English Paper Piecing, sashiko stitching, turned edge appliqué and Foundation Paper Piecing. Clear step-by-step instructions for each design, with beautiful photos of every project.

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SUMMER

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Don’t miss out on this month’s finest craft happenings

Liven up your summer party with these colourful craft ideas, inspired by new Sunbites Honey Glazed Barbecue flavour

SEE YOU AT... Mademoiselle Poirot’s autumn photography & styling workshop Head to The Forge, Bristol, on 30th September for Carole Poirot’s Autumn Styling & Photography workshop. Better known as blogger Mademoiselle Poirot, Carole will teach you how to create styled seasonal images for your blog or Instagram. Book your tickets at www.theforgebristol.com

Writer, presenter and blogger Momtaz Begum-Hossain (craftandtravel.com)

Join London Craft Club at Todd Sloane in Epping, Essex, on 6th October to knot your own macramé wall hanging. The half day workshop runs from 2-5pm and costs £39. www.londoncraftclub.co.uk Always fancied having a go at screen printing? The Makery in Bath have teamed up with screen printer Anna Brindle of Lost Shapes to hold a hands-on workshop on 8th October, where you’ll leave with a personalised tote bag. Tickets cost £40. www.themakery.co.uk The Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair is

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Every BBQ chef needs an apron. Sew your own with colourful cotton print fabric and use canvas ribbon for the neck strap and ties.

celebrating its 10th year, and takes place in Manchester from 12-15th October. Discover over 150 makers at Upper Campfield Market – advance tickets cost £6.50, or they’re £7.50 on the door. www.greatnorthernevents.co.uk

For a knockout summer party, challenge your friends to a game of skittles made from plastic bottles. Decorate them with acrylic paint and strips of washi tape.

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Turn wooden skewers into cocktail stirrers by cutting out fruit motifs from card and sticking them to the tops. Juicy lemon slices and watermelon wedges are perfect.

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Making homemade salad dressing? Store it in a glass bottle and use glass paint pens to draw on flavour clues – a bee could signify honey and mustard, for example.

MADE London Head to the MADE London – Marylebone contemporary craft fair on 19th-22nd October to find over 120 talented designer-makers selling everything from ceramics and wood to textiles, gold, glass and more. Taking place at One Marylebone, a beautiful former church, you can pick up early bird tickets on the website for just £5 each. www.madelondon-marylebone.co.uk

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Rainbow bright

PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSE WILD; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG; MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA

Spread sunshine wherever you go with Beki Rymsza’s travel cushion

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HOW TO MAKE… A RAINBOW CUSHION MATERIALS Q Stylecraft Special DK, 100% acrylic, 100g/295m per ball, one ball each in Wisteria (1432) (Yarn A), Sherbert (1034) (Yarn B), Spring Green (1316) (Yarn C), Citron (1263) (Yarn D), Apricot (1026) (Yarn E) and Pomegranate (1083) (Yarn F) Q Twilley’s of Stamford Goldfingering, 20% metalised polyester/80% viscose, 25g/100m per ball, one ball in Gold (2) (Yarn G) Q 4mm (UK 8, US 6) knitting needles Q Tapestry needle Q Pink zip, 45.5cm (18")

 Q Sewing needle Q Matching sewing thread Q Padded travel cushion, 30 x 30 x 10cm (117/8 x 117/8 x 4") TENSION Approx. 22sts and 36 rows to 10cm (4") over stocking stitch ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) k knit p purl RS right side WS wrong side st st stocking st M1L make 1 st left, with the left needle pick up the bar

Beki Rymsza Beki has just moved to the South West, and is loving the seaside. She mostly knits sweaters to order, with some of her highlights including a Teletext screen, Erol Alkan and Breaking Bad’s Walter White. www.wheresmejumper.co.uk

92 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

between the stitch you just knitted and the one you are about to knit, placing the needle through from front to back, then knit into the back loop of this bar M1R make 1 st right, with the left needle pick up the bar between the stitch you just knitted and the one you are about to knit, placing the needle through from back to front, then knit into the front loop of this bar FINISHED SIZE Approx. 30 x 30 x 10cm (117/8 x 117/8 x 4")

Sunshine, lollipops and rainbows – all essentials for the ultimate travel experience. And by rainbows, we’re talking about Beki’s colourful cushion, of course. Whether you’re getting ready for a long-haul flight or just a long drive, this cheery, comfy accessory will help you relax, and make sure you rock up feeling fresh as a daisy. We’ve added glittery yarn in between each stripe for that ‘pot of gold’ sparkle, but if you’d prefer to leave yours plain, complete the six rows of each set in the same colour yarn you’re knitting with. Instructions The cushion cover is made from two curved panels which are sewn together, with a zip inserted along the long seam. Rainbow panel (make two) Always work Yarn G using two strands held together. Using Yarn A, cast on 110 sts Row 1 k Row 2 p


Row 3 k22, M1L, k22, M1L, k22, M1R, k22, M1R, k22 [114sts] Row 4 p Row 5 k22, M1L, k23, M1L, k24, M1R, k23, M1R, k22 [118sts] Row 6 join Yarn G, p Row 7 join Yarn B, k22, M1L, k24, M1L, k26, M1R, k24, M1R, k22 [122sts] Row 8 p Row 9 k22, M1L, k25, M1L, k28, M1R, k25, M1R, k22 [126sts] Row 10 p Row 11 k22, M1L, k26, M1L, k30, M1R, k26, M1R, k22 [130sts] Row 12 join Yarn G, p Row 13 join Yarn C, k22, M1L, k27, M1L, k32, M1R, k27, M1R, k22 [134sts] Row 14 p Row 15 k22, M1L, k28, M1L, k34, M1R, k28, M1R, k22 [138sts] Row 16 p Row 17 k22, M1L, k29, M1L, k36, M1R, k29, M1R, k22 [142sts] Row 18 join Yarn G, p Row 19 join Yarn D, k22, M1L, k30, M1L, k38, M1R, k30, M1R, k22 [146sts]

Row 20 p Row 21 k22, M1L, k31, M1L, k40, M1R, k31, M1R, k22 [150sts] Row 22 p Row 23 k22, M1L, k32, M1L, k42, M1R, k32, M1R, k22 [154sts] Row 24 join Yarn G, p Row 25 join Yarn E, k22, M1L, k33, M1L, k44, M1R, k33, M1R, k22 [158sts] Row 26 p Row 27 k22, M1L, k34, M1L, k46, M1R, k34, M1R, k22 [162sts] Row 28 p Row 29 k22, M1L, k35, M1L, k48, M1R, k35, M1R, k22 [166sts] Row 30 join Yarn G, p Row 31 join Yarn F, k22, M1L, k36, M1L, k50, M1R, k36, M1R, k22 [170sts] Row 32 p Row 33 k22, M1L, k37, M1L, k52, M1R, k37, M1R, k22 [174sts] Row 34 p Row 35 k22, M1L, k38, M1L, k54, M1R, k38, M1R, k22 [178sts] Row 36 p Cast off and weave in all loose threads.

Finishing Fold the zip in half along the length to find the centre, then pin this point to the centre of the cast off edge of one panel, with RS together and aligning the edges. Pin the top edge of the zip around the cast off edge. Fold back the zip and pin the second panel to the other half of the zip in the same way. Sew, either using a sewing machine, or by hand using backstitch. Line up the seams at either side of the zip with RS facing and sew together, using Yarn F and an invisible horizontal seam. Line up both cast on edges with RS facing and sew together, using Yarn A and an invisible horizontal seam. Line up the stripes at one end of the rainbow and sew together, using Yarn A and mattress stitch. Repeat at the other end of the rainbow cushion. Weave in any loose ends, then insert the cushion pad or stuff firmly with soft toy stuffing.

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 93


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Foxy Lady Look cute even when you’re snoozing with Kirsty Neale’s appliqué sleep mask

Subscribe at molliemakes.com

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 95


03

08

HOW TO MAKE… AN EYE MASK MATERIALS QTwo pieces of orange fabric, 25.5 x 15cm (101/8 x 6") QWhite felt, 30.5 x 30.5cm (12 x 12") QSmall pieces of black and pale pink felt QEmbroidery thread in white, black and pale pink QEmbroidery needle QRibbon, 1m (393/8") QErasable fabric marker

96 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

If you want to look adorable even when getting your beauty sleep, this woodland pal is the answer to your prayers. Plus, Kirsty’s sweet mask will help you pull off that ‘I woke up like this’ look, too. For a snug fit, use elastic instead of ribbon to keep your sleep mask in place at night. Cut a strip that fits snugly around your head, then pin the ends to each side before stitching the layers together. 01 Using the templates on page 99, cut two upper head pieces from the orange fabric, leaving a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance around the outside. Next, cut two head pieces and two inner ear pieces from the white felt, two cheeks from the pink felt, and a nose from the black felt. 02 Pin the two upper head pieces with right sides (RS) together, then sew around the outside, using a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance, and leaving a gap along the top edge for turning. Clip into the corners and along the curved edges, then turn RS out and press. Slip stitch the gap closed.

03 Using the fabric pen and the template as a guide, mark the eyes and whiskers onto one head piece. Using two strands of black embroidery thread and backstitch, stitch the outline of each eye. Next, work medium-length straight stitches for the eyelashes. 04 Pin one pink cheek section onto the bottom of each side of the embroidered head piece, using the main image as a guide, and lining up the lower edges. Sew in place around the top curved edge with small whip stitches, leaving the lower edge open. 05 Sew a white inner ear onto each side of the upper head piece, reversing one ear piece so they fit

within the space, and using the main image for placement. 06 Cut two 40cm (15¾") lengths of ribbon. Place the embroidered head piece wrong side (WS) up, then pin one end of each ribbon piece to either side, just below where the upper head will sit. 07 Place the two white felt head pieces with WS together and the ribbon ends sandwiched in between, then place the upper head piece on top, using the image as a guide. Pin and sew along all the edges to join the pieces together. 08 To finish, sew the felt nose in place, then use two strands of black embroidery thread and French knots to create the whiskers.

How To Sew This project appears in How To Sew, published by Pavilion Books (£9.99), and was designed by Kirsty Neale. Featuring 20 fun, contemporary makes for all skill levels, the book also includes step-by-step instructions for each project. www.pavilionbooks.com


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MAKES

TEMPLATES All the shapes for this issue’s makes. Unless otherwise stated, templates are shown at 100%.You can find the full-size templates ready to download from www.molliemakes.com

Back body Cut 1

FELT ANIMALS BY ANABELLA CAHWJE PAGE 18

Arm Cut 4 Head (lion and bear) Cut 2

Ear (lion and bear) Cut 2

Head (bunny) Cut 1 Ear (bunny) Cut 2

Crown Cut 1

Camera top Cut 1

Small camera lens Cut 1

Large camera lens Cut 1

Camera body Cut 1

Thank you for making this project from Mollie Makes. We have requested specific permission from designers so that you can recreate and sell selected projects from this issue on the following conditions. Just look for this icon. You can individually hand-make as many as you wish of our labelled projects, to sell either for yourself, your local event or to raise money for charity. You cannot sell in shops (online or otherwise) and you cannot go into mass production, which means you cannot manufacture in large quantities, especially by machine. Selling photocopies of any part of this magazine, its kits or supplements is prohibited. We don’t mind if you make a copy of the templates for a friend but please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party website, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Please respect one another’s copyright.

Subscribe at molliemakes.com

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 99


MAKES

SEWING MACHINE TAG

FELT ANIMALS

BY ANNA ALICIA PAGE 85

BY ANABELLA CAHWJE PAGE 18

Tag front Cut 1

Front body Cut 2

Tag back Cut 1

Bow Cut 1

Tag insert Cut 2

Thank you for making this project from Mollie Makes. We have requested specific permission from designers so that you can recreate and sell selected projects from this issue on the following conditions. Just look for this icon. You can individually hand-make as many as you wish of our labelled projects, to sell either for yourself, your local event or to raise money for charity. You cannot sell in shops (online or otherwise) and you cannot go into mass production, which means you cannot manufacture in large quantities, especially by machine. Selling photocopies of any part of this magazine, its kits or supplements is prohibited. We don’t mind if you make a copy of the templates for a friend but please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party website, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Please respect one another’s copyright.

100 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83


MAKES

SLOGAN HOOP BY SOPHIE GIBBONS PAGE 16

Thank you for making this project from Mollie Makes. We have requested specific permission from designers so that you can recreate and sell selected projects from this issue on the following conditions. Just look for this icon. You can individually hand-make as many as you wish of our labelled projects, to sell either for yourself, your local event or to raise money for charity. You cannot sell in shops (online or otherwise) and you cannot go into mass production, which means you cannot manufacture in large quantities, especially by machine. Selling photocopies of any part of this magazine, its kits or supplements is prohibited. We don’t mind if you make a copy of the templates for a friend but please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party website, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Please respect one another’s copyright.

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83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 101


MAKES

MACRAMÉ KNOT GUIDE USE TO MAKE YOUR MACRAMÉ SHELF BY AMY MULLINS AND MARNIA RYAN-RAISON ON PAGE 53 01

1 2 3 4

2 3 4

Half knot spiral The half knot spiral is a sinnet (vertical column) made with half knots, which naturally twist as you continue to tie them. Help to create a uniform look 01

2

1

1

by rotating and tightening the knots at regular intervals. 01 Number the cords from 1 to 4. Cords 1 and 4 are the working

02

1 2 3 4

02

2

4

2 3

1 2 3 4

1

cords, and Cords 2 and 3 the filler cords. Bring Cord 1 over the filler cords and under Cord 4. 02 Next, bring Cord 4 under the filler cords at the centre, and up 03

between Cords 1 and 2 so that it lays across Cord 1. 03 Repeat Steps 1 and 2 as many times as instructed in the pattern to create a half knot spiral. 04

2

2

1

1

1 2 3 4

03

1

Half hitch knots Half hitch knots are made with a working and a holding cord, and can be used vertically or horizontally by changing the angle of the holding cord.

01 Lay the holding cord, Cord 1, horizontally. Lay the working cord, Cord 2, vertically underneath Cord 1. The two should form a cross shape.

02

Overhand Knot An overhand knot is the most basic way of tying a knot, and is used within the project to

secure the shelves in place. To make a double overhand knot, simply repeat Steps 1 and 2.

02 Bring Cord 2 up and over Cord 1, and down through the loop. This is a half hitch knot. 03 Bring Cord 2 up and over Cord 1 again, to the right of the

half hitch knot. Pass Cord 2 back down behind Cord 1. 04 Bring Cord 2 to the front, through the new loop made, to complete a double half hitch.

02

01 Hold both ends of the cord and make a loop by bringing the left end over the right end.

02 Pull the left end of the cord through the loop, and pull both ends tightly to secure.

Thank you for making this project from Mollie Makes. We have requested specific permission from designers so that you can recreate and sell selected projects from this issue on the following conditions. Just look for this icon. You can individually hand-make as many as you wish of our labelled projects, to sell either for yourself, your local event or to raise money for charity. You cannot sell in shops (online or otherwise) and you cannot go into mass production, which means you cannot manufacture in large quantities, especially by machine. Selling photocopies of any part of this magazine, its kits or supplements is prohibited. We don’t mind if you make a copy of the templates for a friend but please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party website, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Please respect one another’s copyright.

102 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83


MAKES

STITCH GUIDE USE OUR HANDY STITCH GUIDE FOR THE EMBROIDERY PROJECTS IN THIS ISSUE

03

02 01

01

04

02

01

STRAIGHT STITCH The simplest of stitches, straight stitch can be grouped together or used alone. Come up at point 1, then go down at point 2. Repeat as necessary.

03

01

04

02

02

SPLIT STITCH A great stitch for working outlines. When you make the ‘split’ try to go through the fibres, and not just in between the strands of embroidery thread. Come up at point 1, then go down at point 2. Come up at point 3, splitting the previous stitch, then go down at point 4. Repeat as necessary.

SLEEP MASK BY KIRSTY NEALE PAGE 95

Photocopy at 200%

Head Cut 2

FRENCH KNOT This is a stitch that everyone should learn, because it’s so useful. The secret is to hold the working thread taut while you pull it through. Come up at point 1, then wrap the thread around the needle twice. Holding the working thread with your non-dominant hand, bring the needle down at point 2 (close to point 1, but not the same hole) and pull slowly until the knot is formed.

Inner ear Cut 2

FIND FULL SIZE TEMPLATES ON molliemakes.com

Cheek Cut 2

Nose Cut 1

Upper head Cut 2

Thank you for making this project from Mollie Makes. We have requested specific permission from designers so that you can recreate and sell selected projects from this issue on the following conditions. Just look for this icon. You can individually hand-make as many as you wish of our labelled projects, to sell either for yourself, your local event or to raise money for charity. You cannot sell in shops (online or otherwise) and you cannot go into mass production, which means you cannot manufacture in large quantities, especially by machine. Selling photocopies of any part of this magazine, its kits or supplements is prohibited. We don’t mind if you make a copy of the templates for a friend but please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party website, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Please respect one another’s copyright.

Subscribe at molliemakes.com

83 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 103


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Workshops in association with:

UPPER STREET EVENTS by


To feature in the Marketplace contact Jordana Widt (0117 300 8539, jordana.widt@immediate.co.uk) or Chris Gibson (0117 300 8109, chris.gibson@immediate.co.uk)

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Nellies quality handmade children’s clothes and crafts. Lovingly crafted beautiful dresses, dungarees and more with hint of vintage. To find out more visit: www.lovenelliesshop.co.uk

01453 839454 Needle felt kits and supplies including hedgehog fabric, birds legs, wool batts and glue-in eyes, starter packs, monthly Makerss boxes, free tutorials. 10% discount code: MM10. info@themakerss.co.uk www.themakerss.co.uk

07796 620139 Kits, patterns, books, fabrics, eyes and supplies to crochet, knit, needle felt and sew a magical world of dolls, bears and other cute animals. info@amazingcraft.co.uk www.amazingcraft.co.uk

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SEW BUSY

01252 444220 Stockists of Makower, Robert Kaufman, Clothworks, Windham, Makower, Michael Miller, RIley Blake, Stof among many others. Ribbons, haberdashery, sewing themed goods and sewing classes. www.sew-busy.co.uk HANDMADE

CURIOUS ROSE LTD

07783 859419 Proper hand-made soft toys! Cuddly companions in crime, or for lazing on picnics. We also hand-dye vintage blankets, making gorgeous wheat bags for winter hibernation. www.curious-rose.co.uk

TINY TINKS Tinytinks specialise in handmade heirloom dolls for your little one to treasure for a lifetime. All dolls are custom made and one of a kind. Please pop over to our website for more details. www.tiny-tinks.co.uk

DOODLECRAFT DESIGN

01333 429597 Contemporary cross stitch, blackwork and needlepoint kits, both functional and beautiful. Game boards by stitching, painting by stitching, creating by stitching and your own photo charts. www.doodlecraftdesign.co.uk

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Designer fabrics including Frou-Frou, Blend, Sevenberry Lecien and Dashwood Studio. Wool blend felt, buttons, trims and hair accessory supplies. Use code MOLLIE10 for 10% off your first order. www.carrowaycottage.co.uk FABRIC & MATERIALS

DADASTICKERS

07542078284 Supplies shop for paper craft enthusiasts and stationery geeks Here you will find everything from quirky pens to whimsical stickers and beautiful washi tape. team@dadagraphix.com www.dadastickers.etsy.com

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01579 384376 We supply wooden, MDF, papier mache & galvanised items to decorate yourself. Products include boxes, mini chests of drawers, trays, planters & clocks. orders@boxylady.co.uk www.boxylady.co.uk

To feature in the Marketplace please contact either: Jordana Widt:

Chris Gibson:

0117 300 8539

0117 300 8109

jordana.widt@immediate.co.uk

chris.gibson@immediate.co.uk


One of Gudrun’s original artworks

Gudrun Sjödén on why nature is at the centre of her design career Name: Gudrun Sjödén Occupation: Designer and founder of clothing brand Gudrun Sjödén

Colour has always been at the heart of my universe. I graduated in textile design in the 60s, the decade when colours and patterns changed character, moving from romantic and ornate to more bold and graphic. And, even now, flowers and foliage are still on my mind. At present, nature is in late summer bloom, and I follow its subtle changes from day to day. This year, I filled my greenhouse with blooming blossoms and cucumber, tomato and grape plants, while the balcony is laden with orange geraniums, yellow nasturtiums and a

Gudrun loves to sit outside with pad, pens and paint

All Gudrun’s collections begin from her sketches

i’ve found inspiration in sintra’s gardens, high in the mountains above lisbon Gudrun’s beautiful balcony space, filled with seasonal blooms

Gudrun Visit www.gudrunsjoden.com to shop the latest collection, and to find out more about Gudrun’s world. You can also follow her on Instagram at @gudrunsworld.

Next issue: Sara Tasker on the power of podcasts 106 MOLLIEMAKES.COM 83

On location at Sintra’s Gardens for the Autumn collection shoot

swirling slender plant whose name escapes me! Nature is a never-ending source of ideas for my creations, be it in the dramatic salt deserts of Bolivia or in my own garden. Most recently, I’ve found inspiration in Sintra’s Gardens, high in the mountains above Lisbon. A mysterious little city with citrus trees, eucalyptus, magnolia, moss and ferns, it was a dream location to shoot my colour rich, exuberantly patterned Autumn 2017 collection.

Currents

Travelling: I’ve recently spent time in Verona, Italy, taking in its beautiful, historic sights. Eating: Italian food, of course! From pizza to pasta, I’m sampling all of Verona’s delights. Watching: Opera. There’s nothing like watching it performed live.


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  12

40

Boho shrug

Bunny outfit

Totally hooked Crochet lovers rejoice! We’ve teamed up with DMC to bring you this bumper project book with 22 fresh patterns to hook up over the coming months – we’re planning lots of evenings on the sofa with a big bundle of yarn, a cuppa and a good box set. Update your wardrobe with a boho shrug or geo clutch, pretty up your home with our chunky chevron blanket and 70s-inspired potholder, or add some amigurumi attitude to your life with a rainbow unicorn and fruity pals – we’ve got plenty to inspire you. If you’re a crochet newbie, turn to page 46 for a complete stitch guide, and don’t forget to share your makes using #molliemakers.

29 Geo clutch

33

70s-style mandalas

43

24

Vintage potholder

Cath Dean Editor

Rainbow unicorn

21

Chevron blanket

7

Kawaii fruit

16

Crochet flowers

From supersize Natura XL to the finest Petra, all DMC crochet cottons are made with the highest quality fibres and technical innovations, meaning your garments hang better, and accessories and toys hold their shape longer. Colours include the nature-inspired matte tones of Natura and subtle sheen of Petra, in an extensive palette of delicate pastels, jewel brights and flattering neutrals, all of which stay colourfast wash after wash. With a wide range of fine crochet threads and cosy merinos, two new fashion yarns – stone wash-style Natura Denim and soft slubby Natura Linen – plus trend-led Wool And The Gang and everpopular Sirdar now in the DMC group, there’s a DMC yarn for every project.


INTRODUCING trends

THIS MONTH WE’RE OBSESSING ABOUT...

CROCHET Tactile makes and bright accessories you’ll fall hook, line and sinker for

Intricate crochet detailing makes for the prettiest cover-up. www. anthropologie.com

4 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET


INTRODUCING trends 03

02

01

Sing it with us: “Red

and yellow and pink and

01

green...” www.notonthe highstreet.com/berylune 02

Hook your plants a

macramé-inspired 08

home. www.jellybean junctionuk.etsy.com 03

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of new crochet goodies? Sign us up. www. crochyayboxes.co.uk 04

Chunky storage for

craft supplies. www. woolandthegang.com 05

04

Wear your crochet

from head to toe. www.hm.com 06

Forget diamonds

– daisies are a boho girl’s best friend. www. shopmerimeri.co.uk 07

Just say you made it

yourself – we won’t tell. www.notonthehigh 07

street.com/warmpixie 08

Mini textured pots

for tiny nature finds. www.trouva.com

05

06

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PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG AND BECKI CLARK

Feeling Fruity Whip up the sweetest fruit salad with Charlotte Gray’s amigurumi cuties

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HOW TO MAKE… AMIGURUMI FRUIT MATERIALS QRico Creative Cotton Aran, 100% cotton, 50g/85m per ball, one ball each in Powder (61) (Yarn A), Light Pistachio (44) (Yarn B), Rose (00) (Yarn C), White (80) (Yarn D), Light Blue (32) (Yarn E), Vanilla (62) (Yarn F), Candy Pink (64) (Yarn G) QSmall amounts of 4 ply yarn in pale pink, white and hot pink Q3.5mm (UK 9, US E/4) crochet hook QYarn needle QSoft toy stuffing QBlack safety eyes, 1cm (3/8") diameter QBlack embroidery thread QStitch marker

ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) ch chain ss slip stitch dc double crochet tr treble crochet htr half treble crochet inc increase by working 2 dc into the same stitch dec decrease by working 2 dc together magic ring to make a magic ring, hold yarn in the hand and wrap working yarn around forefinger twice to create ring, slip ring off the finger and insert hook to pick up first st, ch1, then work the necessary sts for Round 1. Close the ring tightly by pulling the loose end

TENSION Tension is not important – just make sure stitches are tight so the stuffing doesn’t show through

FINISHED SIZE Approx. 8cm (31/8") high

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Quirk up a corner of your home with these mini fruity beauties. Fans of amigurumi – and of all things adorable – will love hooking up Charlotte’s kawaii-cute makes. Are we allowed to say the pineapple is our favourite? Use any yarn shades you like for your versions, but as the tension needs to be tight to prevent any stuffing showing through, always downsize your hook in relation to the yarn’s recommendation. Instructions The majority of the fruits are made in continuous rounds in a spiral – don’t join at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the end of each round. The pattern uses concise crochet terms; for example, 6dc means work 1dc in each of the next 6 sts. It is important to use a smaller hook than recommended for the yarn. Peach Worked from the top downwards Round 1 using Yarn A, start with a

magic ring, 6dc into ring, pull ring closed [6sts] Round 2 1dc in each st around [6sts] Round 3 (inc) 6 times [12sts] Round 4 (1dc, inc) 6 times [18sts] Round 5 (2dc, inc) 6 times [24sts] Round 6 (3dc, inc) 6 times [30sts] Round 7 (4dc, inc) 6 times [36sts] Rounds 8-16 1dc in each st around [36sts] Round 17 (4dc, dec) 6 times [30sts] Round 18 (3dc, dec) 6 times [24sts] Attach safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12. Start stuffing and continue as you go. Round 19 (2dc, dec) 6 times [18sts] Round 20 (1dc, dec) 6 times [12sts] Round 21 (dec) 6 times [6sts] Finish with a ss. Sew remaining stitches closed, then leave an extra long tail. Stalk Foundation using Yarn F, ch9, turn Row 1 ss in 2nd chain from the hook, then in each ch across. Break yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.


Leaf Foundation using Yarn B, ch9, turn Row 1 1dc in 2nd ch from hook then in each ch across, turn [8sts] Row 2 ch1 (does not count as st), 1tr, 2tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc, 1ss, 1ss, ch2, turn to work down the opposite side, 1ss, 1ss, 1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 2tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr, ss into base Break yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Cheeks (make two) Round 1 using pale pink 4 ply yarn, start with a magic ring, 6dc into ring, pull ring closed. Ss in the first dc Break yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finishing Sew on the cheeks using the yarn needle, then embroider on the smile between the eyes, using black embroidery thread, and the main image as a guide. To make the side indentation, take the long tail and thread it up

through the middle of the peach. Bring the thread down on the outside of the peach, just to the left of the face, then pull until you’re happy with the indentation. Sew firmly to the base of the peach. Thread the stalk down through the peach from the top to bottom. Attach and hide the ends, then repeat with the leaf.

Round 13 1dc in each st around [36sts] Attach eyes between Rounds 11 and 12. Stuff, continuing as you go. Round 14 (2dc, dec) 9 times [27sts] Round 15 (1dc, dec) 9 times [18sts] Round 16 (1dc, dec) 6 times [12sts] Round 17 (dec) 6 times [6sts] Finish with a ss. Sew remaining sts closed and hide the ends.

Strawberry Worked from the bottom upwards Round 1 using Yarn C, start with a magic ring, 6dc into ring, pull ring closed [6sts] Round 2 (inc) 6 times [12sts] Round 3 1dc in each st around [12sts] Round 4 (1dc, inc) 6 times [18sts] Round 5 1dc in each st around [18sts] Round 6 (2dc, inc) 6 times [24sts] Rounds 7-8 1dc in each st around [24sts] Round 9 (3dc, inc) 6 times [30sts] Rounds 10-11 1dc in each st around [30sts] Round 12 (4dc, inc) 6 times [36sts]

Stalk Round 1 using Yarn B, start with a magic ring, 4dc into ring, pull ring closed [4sts] Round 2 1dc in each st around [4sts] Round 3 (inc) 4 times [8sts] Round 4 *ss into the next dc, ch4, ss in 2nd ch from the hook, 1dc in each of next 2ch, ss in next dc; repeat from * another 3 times (forming 4 leaves) Break yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Cheeks (make two) As for the Peach, but using hot pink 4 ply yarn. CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 9


HOW TO MAKE‌ AMIGURUMI FRUIT Finishing Sew on the cheeks using the yarn needle. Using black embroidery thread, and the main image as a guide, embroider on the smile. Sew the stalk to the top of the strawberry, then use 4 ply white yarn to sew on some white seeds. Blueberry Worked from the bottom upwards Round 1 using Yarn E, start with a magic ring, 6dc into ring, pull ring closed [6sts] Round 2 (inc) 6 times [12sts] Round 3 (1dc, inc) 6 times [18sts] Round 4 (2dc, inc) 6 times [24sts] Round 5 (3dc, inc) 6 times [30sts] Rounds 6-12 1dc in each st around [30sts] Attach safety eyes between Rounds 9 and 10, start stuffing, and continue as you go Round 13 (3dc, dec) 6 times [24sts] Round 14 (2dc, dec) 6 times [18sts] Round 15 crochet this round in the back loops only, 1dc in each st around [18sts] Round 16 (1dc, dec) 6 times [12sts] 10 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

Round 17 (dec) 6 times [6sts] Finish with a ss. Sew remaining sts closed and hide the ends. Crown In the front loops of Round 15, attach the yarn with a ss. Ch1, *4 htr, ss; repeat from * to end of round. Finish with a ss in the first ch1. Break yarn, fasten off and leave a long tail. Take the yarn needle and thread through the top of the 4htr clusters, then fasten them down to the top of the blueberry. Continue around. Fasten off and hide tails. Cheeks (make two) As for the Peach. Finishing Sew on the cheeks using the yarn needle. Using black embroidery thread and the main image as a guide, embroider on the smile. Watermelon Worked from bottom upwards Round 1 using Yarn G, start with a

magic ring, 4dc into ring, pull ring closed [4sts] Round 2 (inc) 4 times [8sts] Round 3 1dc in each st around [8sts] Round 4 (1dc, inc) 4 times [12sts] Round 5 1dc in each st around [12sts] Round 6 (2dc, inc) 4 times [16sts] Round 7 1dc in each st around [16sts] Round 8 (3dc, inc) 4 times [20sts] Round 9 1dc in each st around [20sts] Round 10 (4dc, inc) 4 times [24sts] Round 11 1dc in each st around [24sts] Round 12 (5dc, inc) 4 times [28sts] Round 13 1dc in each st around [28sts] Change to Yarn D Round 14 (6dc, inc) 4 times [32sts] Round 15 1dc in each st around [32sts] Change to Yarn B Round 16 1htr in each st around [32sts] Attach safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, then stuff. Finish with a


ss, leave a long tail, and whip stitch to close. Cheeks (make two) As for the Peach. Finishing Sew on the cheeks using the yarn needle. Using black embroidery thread and the main image as a guide, embroider on the smile. Using a length of 4 ply white yarn, sew on some white seeds. Pineapple Worked from the bottom upwards Round 1 using Yarn F, start with a magic ring, 6dc into ring, pull ring closed [6sts] Round 2 (inc) 6 times [12sts] Round 3 (1dc, inc) 6 times [18sts] Round 4 (2dc, inc) 6 times [24sts] Round 5 crochet this round in the back loops only, (3dc, inc) 6 times [30sts] Round 6-14 1dc in each st around [30sts] Attach safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, start stuffing and

continue as you go Round 15 (3dc, dec) 6 times [24sts] Round 16 (2dc, dec) 6 times [18sts] Round 17 (1dc, dec) 6 times [12sts] Round 18 (dec) 6 times [6sts] Finish with a ss. Sew remaining stitches closed and hide the ends. Leaves (make four) Foundation using Yarn B, ch5 (keep a long tail here to attach the leaves later) Row 1 1dc in 2nd ch from hook then in each ch across, turn [4sts] Rows 2-12 ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each st across, turn [4sts] Row 13 ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1dc in each st across, turn [3sts] Row 14 ch1 (does not count as st),

miss 1 st, 1dc in each st across, turn [2sts] Row 15 ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1dc in each st across [1sts] Finish with a ss and weave in the top tail. Cheeks (make two) As for the Peach. Finishing Sew on the cheeks using the yarn needle. Using black embroidery thread and the main image as a guide, embroider on the smile between the eyes. Arrange the four leaves into a cluster at their base, then sew to the top of the pineapple. Fasten off and hide all tails.

Charlotte Gray Charlotte lives in Melbourne, Australia, with her husband and young son. Constantly dreaming up crochet designs she can add cute kawaii faces to, Charlotte also confesses to a slight obsession with cotton yarn in pastel shades. www.littlehappygorgeous.blogspot.com.au

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PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA, STYLING: KIT CHEUNG AND BECKI CLARK


EXCLUSIVE PATTERN!

BOHO VIBES Keep warm when the sun goes down with Simone Francis’ crochet shrug


HOW TO MAKE… A LACE STITCH SHRUG MATERIALS QDMC Natura Just Cotton, 100% cotton, 50g/155m per ball, six (six, seven, seven) balls in Giroflee (85) Q3.5mm (UK 9, US E/4) crochet hook Q4mm (UK 8, US G/6) crochet hook QYarn needle ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) ch chain

ch-sp(s) chain space(s) dc double crochet ss slip stitch tr treble yrh yarn round hook spike dc spike double crochet – with yarn at back of work, insert hook at front of work under ch sts 2 rows below, pull up a loop, yrh, pull through all loops on hook RS right side WS wrong side

S

M

L

XL

To fit bust size

81-86cm (36-38")

91-97cm (36-38")

102-107cm (40-42")

112-117cm (44-46")

Width

90cm (35½")

97cm (38")

104cm (41")

111cm (43¾")

Length

90cm (35½")

90cm (35½")

95cm (37½")

95cm (37½")

Sleeve width

66cm (26")

66cm (26")

71cm (28")

71cm (28")

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Up the boho feel of a broderie anglaise top, a relaxed maxi dress or pretty much any summer outfit with this lace stitch shrug. Worked in one of this season’s must-wear shades, DMC’s casual cardi is just the right size to stash in your bag when you’re out and about, ready to be donned as soon as that evening chill starts setting in. Or daytime chill, if you’re dealing with the British weather. Instructions The pattern is given in four different sizes, as shown in the chart (left), but written for size S. The patterns for sizes M, L and XL are shown in brackets, increasing in order of size e.g. 1 (2, 3, 4) sts. The shrug is worked sideways starting at the right sleeve opening, working across the back to the left sleeve opening, and is then worked in rows to form a rectangle. Two short seams are made to form the

sleeve seams and the shrug shape, then edging is worked all around. The shrug should be worked in a loose, even tension – 3.25 pattern repeats and 8 rows over 10cm (4"), measured over lace stitch pattern using a 4mm crochet hook. If your tension square comes up at less stitches or rows, use a smaller hook; if more, use a larger hook instead. Shrug Using 4mm hook, ch138 (138, 143, 143) ch with a loose, even tension Foundation (RS) 1tr into the back bump of the 4th ch from hook (3ch missed counts as 1tr), 1tr into the back bump of each ch to end, turn [136 (136, 141, 141) sts] Row 1 (WS) ch3 (counts as 1tr), *1tr in the next st, ch2, miss 2sts, 1tr in each of the next 2sts, repeat from * to end, turn [136 (136, 141, 141) sts] Row 2 (RS) ch3 (counts as 1tr), *1tr in the next st, ch2, miss 2ch-sp, 1tr in each of the next 2sts, repeat from


Lace stitch pattern measurement guide

90 (90, 95, 95)cm (35½ (35½, 37½, 37½)")

90 (97, 104, 111)cm (35½ (38, 41, 43¾)")

Seaming Instructions

* to end, turn Row 3 ch3 (counts as 1tr), *1tr in the next st, ch2, spike dc, ch2, 1tr in each of the next 2tr, repeat from * to end, turn Row 4 ch3 (counts as 1tr), *1tr in the next st, ch2, miss (2ch-sp, spike dc, 2ch-sp), 1tr in each of the next 2sts, repeat from * to end, turn Rows 2-4 set main lace stitch pattern. Repeat Rows 2-4 23 (25, 27, 29) more times, then repeat Rows 2 and 3 once Next row ch3 (counts as 1tr), *1tr in the next st, ch2, miss (2ch-sp, spike dc, 2ch-sp), 1tr in each of the next 2sts, repeat from * to end, turn Next row ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr into each tr and each ch to end Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Seaming Dampen the work, pin out to the desired measurements, as shown in the guide above, and leave to dry. To seam the work, lay it flat with RS

facing up, then fold through the centre so the foundation row meets at one side and the final row meets at the other side. You’ll seam along each of these sides for a short distance to form the sleeve seam. With WS facing, sew 12cm (4¾") up along the side to create the sleeve seam (leaving the rest open to form the arm hole). Repeat for the opposite side. Neckline/back edging Using 4mm hook, rejoin yarn to bottom of the sleeve seam with a ss.

Round 1 (RS) ch3 (counts as 1tr), 2tr into each row end around neckline edge, 1tr into seam at next sleeve, 2tr into each row end around lower back edge, ss into 3rd ch from beginning of round [314 (338, 362, 386) sts] Change to 3.5mm hook Round 2 (RS) ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr into each st around, ss to 3rd ch from beginning of round Round 3 (RS) Repeat Round 2 Round 4 (RS) ch1 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each st around, ss to 1ch from beginning of round. Fasten off and finish all ends neatly.

Simone Francis for DMC Simone has always loved to craft, but crochet is her favourite. Simone’s designs are often influenced by her love of 60s music and fashion, and 70s textiles and art, and she designs patterns for several crochet magazines and DMC. www.simonefrancis.etsy.com

CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 15


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PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA, STYLING: KIT CHEUNG AND BECKI CLARK


FLOWER POWER Transform your home and your wardrobe with Mandy O’Sullivan’s crochet blooms


HOW TO MAKE… CROCHET FLORALS MATERIALS QDMC Natura Just Cotton, 100% cotton, 50g/155m per ball, one ball each in Ixora (104) (Yarn A), Safran (47) (Yarn B), Ibiza (01) (Yarn C), Giroflee (85) (Yarn D), Bougainvillea (93) (Yarn E), Aqua (100) (Yarn F), Blue Jeans (26) (Yarn G), Pistache (13) (Yarn H), Glicine (30) (Yarn I), Passion (23) (Yarn J) Q2.5mm (UK 13, US 1/B) crochet hook QYarn needle QWhite cotton T-shirt QAcrylic hoop, 20cm (77/8") diameter QHot glue gun QSewing needle QWhite sewing thread QBlack sewing thread

ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) sp(s) space(s) ch chain dc double crochet ss slip stitch tr treble magic ring to make a magic ring, hold yarn in your hand and wrap working yarn around forefinger twice to create ring, slip ring off your finger and insert hook to pick up first st, ch1, work the necessary sts for round 1 and close ring tightly by pulling loose end pc popcorn stitch – work 5tr into the st, pull up the working yarn from the last tr and remove hook. Insert hook into top of first tr made then replace the

18 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

working loop onto the hook. Pull this loop back through the first st and pull together until the 5tr cluster ‘pops’ up rep repeat TENSION Tension is not too important – just keep a firm tension throughout

Flowers give an instant lift to any space, so Mandy’s created six different crochet blooms that can be used to brighten up your day-today life in a whole host of ways. Be inspired by our revamped appliqué tee, pretty garland and tactile wreath, then mix and match yarn shades to create your own cheery floral arrangements. Orange lily Round 1 using Yarn A, 6dc into a magic ring, pull ring tight, ss to 1st dc to join [6dc] Round 2 ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in each st around, ss to 1st dc to join [12dc] Round 3 ch1 (does not count as st), (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to 1st dc to join. Fasten off [18dc] Round 4 join Yarn B into any st, (ch7, 1tr in 4th ch from the hook, 1tr


in each of the remaining 3 ch, miss a st, ss in each of next 2 sts) 6 times Round 5 *(1dc, ch1) in the sp before each of the first 4 tr on the first side of the ‘petal’, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) over the top ch3, (ch1, 1dc) in the sp after each of the next 4 tr on the remaining side of the ‘petal’; rep from * 5 more times, ss to 1st dc to join. Fasten off. Reverse daisy Round 1 using Yarn C, start with a magic ring, 10dc into ring, pull ring tight, ss into 1st dc to join and fasten off [10dc] Round 2 attach Yarn D into any st, ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [20dc] Round 3 ch2, 1tr in st at base of ch2, 2dtr in each of the next 2 sts, (1tr, ch2, ss) in next st, *(ss, ch2, 1tr) in next st, 2dtr in each of the next 2

sts, (1tr, ch2, ss) in next st; rep from * another 3 times and fasten off [5 petals]

1tr) in next st, (1tr, ch3, ss) in next st; rep from * 4 more times and fasten off.

Pink popcorn flower Round 1 using Yarn E, start with a magic ring, 10dc into ring, pull ring tight, ss into 1st dc to join [10dc] Round 2 ch3 (counts as 1tr), 4tr into the same st (form a popcorn with these 5tr), ch3, *miss a st, 1pc in the next st, ch3; rep from * 3 more times, ss into top of 1st pc and fasten off.

Green hellebore Round 1 using Yarn G, start with a magic ring, 10dc into ring, pull ring tight, ss into 1st dc to join and fasten off [10dc] Round 2 attach Yarn H to any st, ch2, 1tr in st at base of ch2, ch3, (1tr, ch2, ss) in the next, *(ss, ch2, 1tr, ch3) in next st, (1tr, ch2, ss) in next st; rep from * 3 more times and fasten off.

Aqua mist Round 1 using Yarn F, start with a magic ring, 6dc into ring, pull ring tight, ss into 1st dc to join [6dc] Round 2 ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in each st around, ss into 1st dc to join [12dc] Round 3 *ch3, 1tr in st at base of ch3, (1tr, ch3, ss) in next st, *(ss, ch3,

Teeny bloom Round 1 using Yarn I or Yarn J, start with a magic ring, *ch4, 1dc into the ring; rep from * 6 more times, pull ring tight and fasten off. Making the T-shirt You’ll need: Two orange lilies, three CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 19


HOW TO MAKE… CROCHET FLORALS reverse daisies, two aqua mists, two green hellebores, three pink popcorns, and six teeny blooms (three worked in Yarn I and three worked in Yarn J). 01 Pin the flowers onto the shirt, using the main image as a guide. 02 Using black sewing thread, tack the flowers in place and remove all the pins. 03 Turn the T-shirt inside out, then use white sewing thread and running stitch to attach each flower. Make sure to only catch the base of each bloom, so the thread doesn’t show through at the front. 04 Once all the flowers are attached securely, remove the black tacking thread. Making the garland You’ll need: Three orange lilies, two reverse daisies, two pink popcorns, three aqua mists, two green 20 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

hellebores and four teeny blooms (two in Yarn I and two in Yarn J). 05 Lay out the flowers in the order you’d like them to appear on the garland – use the main image as a guide, or create your own design. 06 Using Yarn C, ch30, ss into top the first flower to attach, *ch18, ss into the top of the next flower; rep from * until all flowers are attached, ch30 to finish and fasten off. Making the wreath You’ll need: One orange lily, two reverse daisies, two pink popcorns,

two aqua mists, two green hellebores and two teeny blooms in Yarn I. 07 Using Yarn H, work a round of dc over the acrylic hoop. The number of stitches will depend on the tension, but make sure the hoop is thoroughly covered with no gaps showing. Ss into initial dc, then cut the yarn, leaving a 20cm (77/8") length for hanging. 08 Using the main image as a guide, glue the flowers onto the hoop. Once the glue has set, hang the hoop using the length of yarn.

Mandy O’Sullivan Aussie crochet designer and photographer Mandy loves making, and especially enjoys combining craft with interiors. You’ll find ideas for creative living on her blog, and plenty of inspiration on her Insta @crochetbyredagape. www.redagape.com.au


PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG AND BECKI CLARK

GO graphic Give the granny square a modern update with Emma Friedlander-Collins’ chevron blanket

CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 21


HOW TO MAKE… A CHEVRON BLANKET MATERIALS QDMC Natura XL Just Cotton, 100% cotton, 100g/75m per ball, six balls in pink (43) (Yarn A), four balls in yellow (82) (Yarn B), four balls in blue (07) (Yarn C) and two balls in cream (31) (Yarn D) Q6mm (UK 4, US J/10) crochet hook QYarn needle

FINISHED SIZE Approx. 74 x 100cm (291/8 x 393/8") excluding fringe (118cm (46½") including fringe)

TENSION Each square should measure approx. 13 x 13cm (5¼ x 5¼") ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) ch chain ch-sp chain space ss slip stitch dc double crochet tr treble

22 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

If the thought of tackling a big crochet project seems intimidating, this blanket is a good place to start. Using a simple pattern, you’ll make a set of granny squares – some with a single colour change – then join them together to create a bold chevron design. Easier than you thought, right? To prevent having to weave in all those ends, when you join on a new yarn, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over with both the yarn and the tail, and work the chain or stitch holding both yarns together. Do this for a couple of stitches, then you can trim the tail at the back of your work and it’ll be secure. Instructions This blanket is made from 48 squares, sewn together. Each square follows the same pattern, but some will include a change of yarn colour. You’ll need to crochet: 12 squares using Yarn A 18 squares using Yarn B and Yarn C

12 squares using Yarn A and Yarn D 6 squares using Yarn A and Yarn B Each square is worked in the round without any turning required. Basic Square Foundation using yarn A, ch 5, ss to 1st ch to make a ring Round 1 ch2 (counts as 1tr), 2tr in ring, ch2, (3tr, ch2) 3 times in ring, ss to 2nd ch from start to join [3tr along each side] Round 2 ch2 (counts as 1tr), *(2tr, ch2, 2tr) in corner 2ch-sp, 1tr in each st along side; repeat from * to end of round, ss to 2nd ch from start to join [7tr along each side] Round 3 ch2 (counts as 1tr), 1tr in each st to corner 2ch-sp, *(2tr, ch2, 2tr) in corner 2ch-sp, 1tr in each st along side; repeat from * to end of round, ss to 2nd ch from start to join [11tr along each side] Round 4 ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each st to corner 2ch-sp, *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner 2ch-sp, 1dc in each st along side; repeat


Layout chart

from * to end of round, ss to 1st dc to join and fasten off [15dc along each side] Two-tone square Foundation using first yarn, ch 5, ss to 1st ch to make a ring Round 1 ch2 (counts as 1tr), 2tr in ring, ch2, 3tr in ring, ch2, change to second yarn, (3tr in ring , ch2) 2 times, ss to 2nd ch from start to join, fasten off [3tr along each side] Round 2 join first yarn into first corner 2ch-sp, ch2 (counts as 1tr), 1tr in same corner 2ch-sp, 1tr in each st along side, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in corner 2ch-sp, 1tr in each st along side, (2tr, ch2) in corner 2ch-sp, change to second yarn, 2tr in same corner 2ch-sp, 1tr in each st along side, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in corner 2ch-sp, 1tr in each st along side, (2tr, ch2) in first corner 2ch-sp, ss to 2nd ch from start to join, fasten off [7tr along each side] Round 3 repeat Round 2 [11tr along each side]

Round 4 join first yarn into first corner 2ch-sp, ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in same corner 2ch-sp, 1dc in each st along side, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner 2ch-sp, 1dc in each st along side, (2dc, ch2) in corner 2chsp, change to second yarn, 2dc in same corner 2ch-sp, 1dc in each st along side, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner 2ch-sp, 1dc in each st along side, (2dc, ch2) in first corner 2ch-sp, ss to 2nd ch from start to join, fasten off [15dc along each side] Finishing Weave in all ends on the squares. Join the squares together following

the layout chart above, sewing just under the top two loops of each st along the edge. To add the tassels, cut six 50cm (19¾") lengths of Yarn B, fold in half, then push the folded end through the outer corner of the first square along the Yarn B/Yarn C edge. Pull the ends through the loop and tighten to create the tassel, then repeat with six 50cm (19¾") lengths of Yarn C, halfway along the square. Continue working across the short edge of the blanket, alternating tassels in Yarn B and Yarn C at the corner and centre of each square. Trim the tassels to neaten.

Emma Friedlander-Collins Emma is a crochet designer and author, and can be found buried under piles of wool in her Sussex home. Also known as Steel & Stitch, Emma has recently started Mrs Steel’s School of Stitchcraft and Scissory, with the intention of spreading better living through craft. www.mrssteelschool.blogspot.co.uk

CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 23


PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG AND BECKI CLARK. THIS IS NOT A TOY – NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER 36 MONTHS

I love unicorns

Make dreams come true with Ilaria Caliri’s magical rainbow-maned unicorn


HOW TO MAKE… A UNICORN MATERIALS QDMC Natura Just Cotton, 100% cotton, 50g/155m per ball, two balls in Ivory (N02) (Yarn A) and one ball each in Aquamarina (N25) (Yarn B), Golden Lemon (N43) (Yarn C), Lobelia (N82) (Yarn D), Amaranto (N33) (Yarn E), Jade (N20) (Yarn F), Light green (N12) (Yarn G) Q2.5mm (UK 12, US C/2) crochet hook QTwo black safety eyes, 1cm (3/8") diameter QBlack embroidery thread QYarn needle QStitch markers QSoft toy stuffing TENSION Tension is not important – just make sure the stitches are dense enough so the stuffing doesn’t show through ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) ch chain dc double crochet

ss slip stitch htr half treble yrh yarn round hook dc2tog double crochet 2 together – (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all three loops on hook magic ring to make a magic ring, hold yarn in your hand and wrap working yarn around forefinger twice to create ring, slip ring off your finger and insert hook to pick up first st, ch1, then work the necessary sts for Round 1 and close ring tightly by pulling the loose end FINISHED SIZE Approx. 22cm (8¾") tall and 15cm (6") long

If Team Mollie were recruiting an animal mascot, this amigurumi unicorn would be pretty high on our list of contenders. With rainbow hair and golden horn, Ilaria’s little pony looks like it’s stepped straight from the pages of a fairy tale. Hook one up today and win the heart of a little ‘un – or fulfil your own childhood dreams. Instructions This pattern is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off the round with a ss. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work. The body and legs are worked in one piece, starting from the neck. The head, ears, tail and horn are then made separately and sewn onto the main parts. This pattern uses concise crochet – for example, 6dc means work 1dc in each of the next 6 sts. Body Leave a long piece of thread before starting the chain – the body starts at the neck, so this will be used to attach the head later. Using Yarn A, ch7 Row 1 miss the first ch, 2dc in next

st, 4dc, 2dc in next st, turn [8 sts] Row 2 ch1, 2dc in next st, 6dc, 2dc in next st, ch8 [10 sts and 8 ch] Ss into the first st of Row 2 to join in round Rounds 1-3 1dc in each st around [18 sts] Round 4 6dc, ch19 (this is the spine of the unicorn), 2dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of the next 17 ch, 1dc in next 18 sts of the neck (remove the stitch marker if you are using it), continue working on the opposite side of the spine ch, 18dc, place a stitch marker, this is the end of the round [55 sts] Round 5 2dc in each of next 2 sts, 52dc, 2dc in next st [58 sts] Round 6 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 2 times, 24dc, 2dc in next st, 3dc, 2dc in next st, 24dc, 2dc in next st [63 sts] Round 7 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 2 times, 56dc, 2dc in last st [66 sts] Round 8 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 2 times, 24dc, 2dc in next st, 5dc, 2dc in next st, 26dc, 2dc in next st [71 sts] Round 9 (4dc, 2dc in next st) 2 times, 61dc [73 sts] Round 10 36dc, 2dc in next st, 7dc, 2dc in next st, 28dc [75 sts] Rounds 11-19 1dc in each st around [75 sts] CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 25


HOW TO MAKE‌ A UNICORN Round 20 (4dc, dc2tog) 2 times, 23dc, dc2tog, 11dc, dc2tog, 23dc, dc2tog [70 sts] Round 21 1dc in each st around [70 sts] 4dc (this should take you to the middle of the back, if not adjust your sts now by more or less dc), 3dc, place a stitch marker into the last dc and continue with Leg 1. Leg 1 Round 1 9dc, ch9, ss into the 1st dc of the leg (the 1st dc after the stitch marker) to join in a round [9 sts and 9 ch] Round 2 1dc in each st around [18 sts] Round 3 1dc in each st around [18 sts] Round 4 (dc2tog, 7dc) 2 times [16 sts] Rounds 5-6 1dc in each st around [16 sts] Round 7 (dc2tog, 6dc) 2 times [14 sts] Rounds 8-9 1dc in each st around [14 sts] Round 10 (dc2tog, 5dc) 2 times [12 sts] Rounds 11-12 1dc in each st around [12 sts] 26 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

Change to Yarn B Round 13 1dc in each st around [12 sts] Round 14 (dc2tog) 6 times [6 sts] Fasten off. Use a tapestry needle to thread the yarn into each front loop of the last round. Pull to close the hole, and weave in any loose ends. Stuff the leg from the open side. Leg 2 Miss 12 sts on Round 20 of Body after Leg 1, place a stitch marker. Make the second leg following the instructions of Leg 1. Leg 3 Miss 5 sts on Round 20 of the Body after Leg 2, place a stitch marker. Make the third leg following the instructions of Leg 1. Leg 4 Miss 12 sts on Round 20 of Body after Leg 3, place a stitch marker. Make the fourth leg following the instructions of Leg 1. Belly Join Yarn A on Round 20, on the right side of the 12 sts space between Leg 1 and Leg 2

Rows 1-5 ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each st to next leg, turn [12 sts] Row 6 ch6, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each remaining ch, 12dc, turn [17 sts] Row 7 ch6, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each remaining ch, 17dc, turn [22 sts] Rows 8-10 ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each st to end, turn [22 sts] Row 11 (partial) ch1 (does not count as st), 17dc, turn leaving the remaining sts unworked [17 sts] Row 12 (partial) ch1 (does not count as st), 12dc, turn leaving the remaining sts unworked [12 sts] Rows 13-16 ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each st to end, turn [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin the Belly piece to Round 20 of the Body, then sew around the body and legs. Stuff the body just before finishing the seam. Continue stuffing the body from the neck until it stays firm and stands up. Head Using Yarn A, start with a magic ring


Round 1 ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the ring, pull ring tight [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc) 6 times [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, 2dc) 6 times [24 sts] Round 5 (2dc in next st, 3dc) 6 times [30 sts] Rounds 6-11 1dc in each st around [30 sts] Round 12 (2dc in next st, 4dc) 6 times [36 sts] Round 13 (2dc in next st, 5dc) 6 times [42 sts] Round 14 1dc in each st around [42 sts] Round 15 (2dc in next st, 6dc) 6 times [48 sts] Rounds 16-26 1dc in each st around [48 sts] Round 27 (dc2tog, 6dc) 6 times [42 sts] Round 28 (dc2tog, 5dc) 6 times [36 sts] Place the eyes between Rounds 15 and 16 of the head, approximately 16 stitches apart. Stuff the head and continue stuffing as you go.

Round 29 (dc2tog, 4dc) 6 times [30 sts] Round 30 (dc2tog, 3dc) 6 times [24 sts] Round 31 (dc2tog, 2dc) 6 times [18 sts] Round 32 (dc2tog, 6dc) 6 times [12 sts] Round 33 dc2tog 6 times [6 sts] Fasten off. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through each front loop of the last round, pull to close the hole, and weave in the ends. Ears (make two) Using Yarn A, start with a magic ring Round 1 ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the ring, pull ring tight [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in next st, 5dc [7 sts] Round 3 2dc in next st, 6dc [8 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, 3dc) 2 times [10 sts] Round 5 (2dc in next st, 4dc) 2 times [12 sts] Round 6 1dc in each st around [12 sts] Do not stuff. Flatten the ear. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the ears to the head between Rounds 24 and 25.

Horn Using Yarn C, start with a magic ring. Every st of the horn is worked in back loop only Round 1 ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into the ring, pull ring tight [5 sts] Round 2 2dc in next st, 4dc [6 sts] Round 3 1dc in each st around [6 sts] Round 4 2dc in next st, 5dc [7 sts] Round 5 2dc in next st, 6dc [8 sts] Round 6 2dc in next st, 7dc [9 sts] Round 7 2dc in next st, 8dc [10 sts] Round 8 2dc in next st, 9dc [11 sts] Round 9 2dc in next st, 10dc [12 sts] Round 10 1dc in each st around [12 sts] Stuff the horn. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the horn to the head between Rounds 17 and 21. Mane Change colour for each row, alternating Yarns B, D, E, F and G. Fringe Row 1 ch33, ss in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in each of next 5 ch, 24htr (place a stitch marker on the 21st htr), 2dc [37 sts] CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 27


HOW TO MAKE… A UNICORN Fasten off Lay the first row aside and start the second one – you’ll join them at the end of the next row Row 2 ch28, ss in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in each of next 5 ch, 21htr (place a stitch marker on last st), continue working on the previous row starting from the first stitch after the stitch marker, 3htr, 2dc [37 sts] Fasten off Lay the mane aside and start the following row Row 3 ch25, ss in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in each of next 5 ch, 18htr (place a stitch marker on last st), continue working on the previous row starting from the first stitch after the stitch marker, 3htr, 2dc [34 sts] Fasten off Lay the mane aside and start the following row Rows 4-5 repeat Row 3 Row 6 ch22, ss in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in each of next 5 ch, 15htr (place a stitch marker on last st), continue working on the previous row starting from the first stitch after the stitch marker, 3htr, 2dc [31 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. 28 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

Upper back Row 1 repeat Row 1 of Fringe Rows 2-8 repeat Row 2 of Fringe Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Lower back Row 1 ch37, ss in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in each of next 5 ch, 28htr (place a stitch marker on the 21st htr), 2dc [41 sts] Fasten off Lay the first row aside and start the second row Rows 2-6 ch32, ss in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in each of next 5 ch, 25htr (place a stitch marker on last st), continue working on the previous row starting from the first stitch after the stitch marker, 3htr, 2dc [41 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing Sew the three parts of the mane between the ears as shown

Using black thread, embroider nostrils to the unicorn with two long stitches over Round 7 of the head, roughly 2 sts apart Place the head on the neck so that Rounds 16 to 22 sit on the neck, then sew all around. Tail Change colour for each row, alternating Yarns B, D, E, F and G. Rows 1-3 repeat Rows 1-3 of Fringe Row 4 repeat Row 6 of Fringe Row 5 ch19, ss in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in each of next 5 ch, 12htr (place a stitch marker on last st), continue working on the previous row starting from the first stitch after the stitch marker, 3htr, 2dc [28 sts] Fasten off, leaving a length of yarn Use this to sew the tail between Rounds 7 and 8 of the body.

Ilaria Caliri Italian crafter Ilaria lives in London, where she illustrates and crochets cute creatures. Finding inspiration everywhere, she sketches each of her characters before designing the pattern, and loves nothing better than sitting on her sofa with a crochet hook and a stash of yarn. www.airalidesign.com


PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA, STYLING: KIT CHEUNG AND BECKI CLARK

EXCLUSIVE PATTERN!

The crochet clutch Master the art of casual-chic with Hannah Cross’ chunky geo bag


HOW TO MAKE… A GEO CLUTCH MATERIALS QDMC Natura XL, 100% cotton, 100g/75m per ball, three balls in Grey (12) (Yarn A) and one ball each in Mint (07), Orange (10), Pink (43), Yellow (09) and Teal (81) Q6mm (UK 4, US J/10) crochet hook Q3mm (UK 10, US D/3) crochet hook QYarn needle QSmall magnetic clasp QPink felt, 24 x 15cm (9½ x 6") QPink sewing thread QSewing needle

TENSION Approx. 13sts and 16 rows of body pattern to 10cm (4") square ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) ch chain dc double crochet ss slip stitch ws waistcoat stitch – work dc into the centre of the V of the st in the row below RS right side FINISHED SIZE Approx. 29 x 17cm (11½ x 6¾")

This tactile clutch is set to be your new wardrobe saviour. Accenting neutral grey with a geo colourpop pattern, and lined in hot pink felt, pair it with any outfit, any time, anywhere for a fresh look. If you’re already a dab hand at crochet, you’ll love putting your skills to the test with this bag. Familiarise yourself with the tapestry technique in the instructions below before getting started, and follow both the chart and the pattern to create the statement detailing. Instructions The main body of the bag and the front flap are made separately and joined with dc. A border is then added all around the bag piece before the side seams are joined. The bag flap is lined using felt, and a clasp attached to fasten it. Tapestry crochet Tapestry crochet is a method for using two or more colours in a

30 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

pattern to create a multi-coloured fabric, much like Fair Isle in knitting. When working tapestry crochet, you’ll be using two or more colours of yarn on each row, and need to ‘carry’ the yarn not in use at any one time. With this pattern, up to five colours are used in each row, so the best way to do this is to leave the unused yarns at the back of the work. The colours not used in any row can be left at the edge and twisted with the other yarns as you complete the rows. The chart pictured shows the colour of the stitches, with each square of colour representing a stitch. As with all colourwork, you must change to a new colour of stitch on the last step of the previous stitch. Bag Foundation using 6mm hook and Yarn A, ch31 Row 1 (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn [30 sts] Row 2 ch1 (does not count as st here and throughout), 1dc in each


chart

st across, turn Row 3 ch1, ss in the back loop of each st across, turn Row 4 ch1, ss in front loop of each st across, turn Row 5 ch1, 1dc in back loop of each st across, turn Row 6 ch1, 1dc in each st across, turn Row 7 as Row 3 Row 8 as Row 4 Rows 5-8 form the pattern Rows 9-52 repeat the pattern 11 more times Break yarn and fasten off. Front flap Follow the chart above to work the colour changes, ensuring you change colour on the last step of the previous st Foundation ch3 Row 1 1ws in 2nd ch from hook, 1ws in 3rd ch from hook [2 sts] Rows 2-15 ch1, 2ws in 1st st, 1ws in each st to last, 2ws in last st [increases of 2 sts per row, ending with 30 sts]

Using 6mm hook and Yarn A, with RS facing, join the front flap to the body with a dc seam in the back loops of the sts, aligning the stitches along the RS of your work. Edging Round 1 with RS facing and using 6mm hook, join Yarn A to long side of bag body, ch1, 39dc evenly along edge (to front flap), 15dc along side of front flap, 2dc across bottom of front flap, 15dc along other side of front flap, 39dc evenly along other side of body, ss to 1st dc to join [110 sts] Row 2 ch1, 1dc in front loop of first 55 sts, ch1, 1dc in front loop of next

55 sts, ss to 1st dc to join [111 sts] Row 3 ch1, 1dc in back loop of each st, ss to 1st dc to join [111 sts] Break yarn and fasten off. Finishing Fold the bag body in half to create the clutch shape. Using 6mm hook, join both side seams with a ss seam in Yarn A. Cut the felt to size to cover the back of the front flap, using the image above as a guide. Pin in place, then add on one half of the magnetic fastening near the edge. Sew the lining in place. Add the other half of the magnetic clasp to the bag body to finish.

Hannah Cross for DMC Designer, writer, maker, photographer and chief tea-maker is how Hannah describes her role as HanJan Crochet. With a daytime (and nighttime) job as a midwife, Hannah squeezes crochet in whenever she can around her busy shifts. www.hanjancrochet.com

CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 31


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CUPCAKE TEA COSY

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HOOP ART

PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; STYLING: KIT CHEUNG AND BECKI CLARK

Channel 70s style with textured stitches and clashing colours – Miki Hemphill shows you how


HOW TO MAKE… CROCHET MANDALAS MATERIALS QPaintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, 100% cotton, 50g/85m per ball, one ball each in Lipstick Pink (652) (Yarn A), Marine Blue (634) (Yarn B), Buttercup Yellow (623) (Yarn C), Lime Green (629) (Yarn D), Blood Orange (620) (Yarn E), Banana Cream (621) (Yarn F), Dusty Lilac (647) (Yarn G) QThree wooden embroidery hoops, 25cm (10"), 22.5cm (9") and 20cm (8") Q4.5mm (UK 7, US 7) crochet hook QYarn needle TENSION Use a firm, even tension. The first three rounds of the large mandala should produce a 7cm (2¾") diameter circle ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) ch chain ch-sp(s) chain space(s) st-sp stitch space – space between individual sts dc double crochet htr half treble

tr treble ss slip stitch FO break yarn and fasten off yrh yarn round hook magic ring to make a magic ring, hold yarn in your hand and wrap working yarn around forefinger twice to create ring, slip ring off your finger and insert hook to pick up first st, ch1, then work the necessary sts for Round 1 and close ring tightly by pulling the loose end puff st (yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop to the height of a tr) 4 times, inserting hook in the same st-sp or ch-sp each time, yrh and draw through all 9 loops on hook, ch1 to complete st SP-2 spike stitch over 2 rows – spike stitch is an elongated dc st. For SP-2, instead of inserting your hook into the round below, insert hook into 2nd round below and complete st SP-3 spike stitch over 3 rows – as SP-2, but insert hook into 3rd round below and complete st fpdc front post double crochet – insert hook from front of work to back, around the back of

Miki Hemphill A self-confessed crochet addict, yarn hoarder and crazy cat lady, Miki loves bright colours and modern boho, and shares free patterns on her blog. www.sfmgs.co.uk

34 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

indicated st and back through to the front, yrh and draw round the back of the post of the indicated st, yrh and draw through 2 loops fphtr front post half-treble – yrh, insert hook from front of work to back, around the back of indicated st and back through to the front, yrh and draw round the back of the post of the indicated st, yrh and draw through all loops. fptr front post treble – yrh, insert hook from front of work to back, around the back of indicated st and back through to the front, yrh and draw round the back of the post of the indicated st, (yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice fpdtr front post double treble – yrh twice, insert hook from front of work to back, around back of indicated st and back through to front, yrh and draw round the back of the post of the indicated st, (yrh and draw through 2 loops) 3 times xtr crossed treble – make a tr in the first st (or sp), wrap yarn round hook to make a second tr, take hook in front of the first tr made, place it into the st (or sp) before the first tr going from front to back, yarn over hook and pull through st, you now have 3 loops on the hook, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice

Bring a free spirit feel into your home with this trio of 70s-inspired hoops in psychedelic shades. Combining puff and spike stitches with more traditional techniques to create texture and interest, Miki’s intricate patterns make for some serious eye candy. Use these eye-catching mandalas to brighten up your walls and – more importantly – show off your impressive crochet skills. Instructions For each hoop, you’ll work the main mandala design separately, then mount it to the inner hoop by working the final round of stitches both over the hoop alone, and into your work. Place the outer hoop to one side while you crochet, then tighten it around the finished piece to hang. Large mandala Round 1 using Yarn A, start with a magic ring, ch3 (counts as 1st tr), 15tr into ring, tighten ring, join to 3rd ch from start with a ss. FO [16 sts] Round 2 join Yarn B into any st-sp, ch2, puff st into same st-sp, ch1, (puff st, ch1) into each of next 15 st-sps, join to top of 1st puff st with a ss. FO [16 sts and 1ch-sps] Round 3 join Yarn C into any 1chsp, ch2 (counts as 1st htr), 1htr into same 1ch-sp, 2htr into each 1ch-sp to end, join to 2nd ch from start with a ss. FO [32 sts] Round 4 join Yarn D into any st-sp


between pairs of 2htr, ch4 (counts as 1st tr and ch1), 1tr into same st-sp, miss 1 st-sp, *(1tr, ch1, 1tr) in next st-sp, miss 1 st-sp; repeat from * to end of round, join to 3rd ch from start with a ss. FO [32 sts and 16 1ch-sps] Round 5 join Yarn E into any 1chsp, ch2, *puff st into 1ch-sp, ch1, SP-2 over next st-sp into the st-sp between 2htr on Round 3, ch1; repeat from * to end of round, join to top of puff st with a ss. FO [32 sts and 1ch-sps] Round 6 join Yarn F into any 1ch-sp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into same 1ch-sp, 2dc into each 1ch-sp to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss. FO [64sts] Round 7 join Yarn G into any st-sp, ch2 (counts as 1st htr), 1htr into each st-sp to end of round, join to 2nd ch from start with a ss. FO [64 sts] Round 8 join Yarn F into any st-sp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into same st-sp, 2dc into each st-sp to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss. FO [128 sts] Round 9 join Yarn A into any st-sp between pairs of 2dc, ch4 (counts as 1st dc and ch3), miss 3 st-sps, *1dc in next st-sp, ch3, miss 3 stsps; repeat from * to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss. FO [32 sts and 3ch-sps] Round 10 join Yarn B into any 3chsp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), (1htr, 1tr, ch1, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc) into same 3ch-sp, 3dc into next 3ch-sp, *(1dc, 1htr, 1tr, ch1, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc) in next 3ch-sp,

3dc in next 3ch-sp; repeat from * to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss. FO [144 sts and 16 1ch-sps] Round 11 join Yarn A into any 1ch-sp, ch2 (counts as 1st dc and ch1), 1dc into same 1ch-sp, *1fpdc around next st, 1fphtr around next st, 1fptr around next st, SP-3 over Round 10 (in the centre of the 3dc group) and into Round 9 between pairs of 2dc, 1fptr around next st, 1fphtr around next st, 1fpdc around next st**, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in next 1ch-sp; repeat from * 14 times, then from * to ** once, join to 1st ch with a ss. FO [144 sts and 16 1ch-sps] Round 12 join Yarn C into any 1chsp, ch2 (counts as 1st dc and ch1), *1dc into same 1ch-sp, 1dc in each of next 8 st-sps**, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in next 1ch-sp; repeat from * another 14 times, then from * to ** once, join to 1st ch with a ss. FO [160 sts and 16 1ch-sps] Round 13 join Yarn D into any 1chsp, ch2 (counts as 1st dc and ch1), 1dc into same 1ch-sp, *1dc in each of next 3 st-sps, miss 1 st-sp, SP-2 over next st-sp and into the SP-3 from Round 11, miss 1 st-sp, 1dc in each of next 3 st-sps**, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in next 1ch-sp; repeat from * another 14 times, then from * to ** once, join to 1st ch with a ss. FO [144 sts and 16 1ch-sps] Round 14 join Yarn E into any 1ch-sp, lay work flat and place inner hoop over work. Working yarn is now behind the hoop. *1dc over the hoop into 1ch-sp, 5dc around the hoop only, miss 3 st-sps, 1tr

over hoop into next st-sp twice, 5dc over hoop only; repeat from * to end of round, join to 1st dc with a ss. FO [208 sts] Medium mandala Round 1 using Yarn E, start with a magic ring, ch3 (counts as 1st tr), 15tr into ring, tighten ring, join to 3rd ch from start with a ss. FO [16 sts] Round 2 join Yarn F into any st-sp, ch2, puff st into same st-sp, puff st into each of next 15 st-sps, join to top of 1st puff st with a ss. FO [16 sts] Round 3 join Yarn G into any st-sp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into same st-sp, 2dc into each st-sp to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss. FO [32 sts] Round 4 join Yarn B into any st-sp between pairs of 2dc, ch4 (counts as 1st dc and ch3), miss 1 st-sp, (1dc in next st-sp, ch3, miss 1 st-sp) 15 times to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss. FO [16 sts and 3ch-sps] Round 5 join Yarn C into any 3chsp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), (1htr, 1tr, ch1, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc) into same 3ch-sp, 3dc into next 3ch-sp, *(1dc, 1htr, 1tr, ch1, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc) in next st-sp, 3dc in next st-sp; repeat from * to end of round, join to 1st ch from start with a ss. FO [72 sts and 8 1ch-sps] Round 6 join Yarn B into any 1ch-sp, ch2 (counts as 1st dc and ch1), 1dc into same 1ch-sp, *1fpdc around next st, 1fphtr around next st, 1fptr around next st, SP-3 over 3dc in Round 5 and st-sp between CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 35


HOW TO MAKE‌ CROCHET MANDALAS 2dc in Round 3, 1fptr around next st, 1fphtr around next st, 1fpdc around next st**, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in next 1ch-sp; repeat from * another 6 times, then from * to ** once, join to 1st ch with a ss and FO [72sts and 8 1ch-sps] Round 7 join Yarn A into any 1chsp, ch2 (does not count as st), puff st in same 1ch-sp, ch10, *puff st into next 1ch-sp, ch10; repeat from * to end of round, join to 1st puff st with a ss and FO [8 sts and 10ch-sps] Round 8 join Yarn D into any 10chsp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), (2htr, 5tr, ch1, 5tr, 2htr, 1dc) into same 10chsp, (1dc, 2htr, 5tr, ch1, 5tr, 2htr, 1dc) into each 10ch-sp to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss and FO [128 sts and 8 1ch-sps] Round 9 join Yarn C into any 1chsp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), *work around the posts of the following 16 sts as follows: 2fpdc, 2fphtr, 2fptr, 4fpdtr, 2fptr, 2fphtr, 2fpdc**, 1dc in next 1ch-sp; repeat from * another 6 times, then from * to ** once, join to 1st ch with ss and FO [136 sts] Round 10 join Yarn E into any st-sp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into each st-sp to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss [136 sts] Round 11 join Yarn F into any st-sp. Lay work flat and place inner hoop over work, working yarn is now behind the hoop. Work 1dc over 36 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

hoop in each st-sp to end of round, join to 1st dc with a ss and FO [136 sts] Small mandala Round 1 using Yarn C, start with a magic ring, ch3 (counts as 1st tr), 15tr into ring, tighten ring, join to 3rd ch from start with a ss and FO [16 sts] Round 2 join Yarn A into any st-sp, ch4 (counts as 1st tr and ch1), (1tr, ch1) in each st-sp to end of round, join to 3rd ch from start with a ss. FO [16 sts and 1ch-sps] Round 3 join Yarn F into any 1ch-sp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into same 1ch-sp, 2dc in each 1ch-sp to end of round, join to 1st ch from start with a ss. FO [32 sts] Round 4 join Yarn B into any st-sp between pairs of 2dc, ch4 (counts as 1st tr and ch1), 1tr into same st-sp, miss 1 st-sp, *(1tr, ch1, 1tr) in next st-sp, miss 1 st-sp; repeat from * to end of round, join to 3rd ch from start with a ss. FO [32 sts and 16 1ch-sps] Round 5 join Yarn G into any 1ch-sp, ch2 (does not count as st), *puff st in 1ch-sp, ch1, SP-2 into st-sp between 2dc on Round 3, ch1; repeat from * to end of round, join to top of puff st with a ss and FO [32 sts and 1ch-sps] Round 6 join Yarn E into any 1chsp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into

same 1ch-sp, 2dc in each 1ch-sp to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss and FO [64 sts] Round 7 join Yarn F into any st-sp, ch3 (counts as 1st tr), 1tr into st-sp before ch3 made to make a xtr, *xtr over next 2 st-sps; repeat from * to end of round, join to 3rd ch from start with a ss. FO [64 sts] Round 8 join Yarn D into any st-sp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc in each st-sp to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss and FO [64 sts] Round 9 join Yarn C into any st-sp, ch4 (counts as 1st dc and ch3), miss 1 st-sp, *1dc, ch3, miss 1 st-sp; repeat from * to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss and FO [32 sts and 3ch-sps] Round 10 join Yarn E into any 3chsp, ch1 (counts as 1st dc), (1htr, ch1, 1htr, 1dc) into same 3ch-sp, (1dc, 1htr, ch1, 1htr, 1dc) into each 3ch-sp to end of round, join to 1st ch with a ss [128 sts and 32 1ch-sps] Round 11 ss into 1ch-sp. Lay work flat and place inner hoop over work. Working yarn is now behind the hoop, *1dc into 1ch-sp over hoop, 5dc around hoop only; repeat from * to end of round, join to 1st dc with a ss and FO [192 sts] Finishing Weave in all loose ends, then place the outer embroidery hoop over the inner hoop and tighten.


15-17 September 2017 The Green at Hampton Court Palace

Join Kirstie Allsopp, Sophie Conran and Annie Sloan for a weekend of inspiration and creativity. Try wirework, calligraphy, or machine sewing in hands-on workshops, shop for unique handmade products from 350 sellers, and tickle your tastebuds with delicious food and drink.

Save £3 and get a

FREE Jewellery Maker kit worth £20 Quote

MOLLIE4

Book tickets today at thehandmadefair.com In association with

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Offer applies to adult Full Experience tickets, and tickets cost £29 + BF (usually £32 + BF). Offer closes 11.08. 2017 or when sold out. Kit includes all you need to make your own piece of jewellery, and will be collectable from the Mollie Makes Café at The Handmade Fair


bunny hop

THIS IS NOT A TOY. CHILDREN SHOULD BE SUPERVISED AT ALL TIME WHEN WEARING

Turn your little ’un into a cotton-tailed cutie – Wool and the Gang show you how


HOW TO MAKE… A BUNNY OUTFIT MATERIALS QWool and the Gang’s Shiny Happy Cotton, 100% pima cotton, 100g/142m per ball, two (three) balls each in either Naked Blue or Nude Pink (Yarn A) and one ball in Ivory White (Yarn B) Q4.5mm (UK 7, US 7) crochet hook QTwo buttons, 2.5cm (1") QYarn needle QCardboard TENSION Approx. 18.5 sts and 10 rows to 10cm (4") square in tr ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) sp(s) space(s) ch chain ch-sp chain space ss slip stitch dc double crochet tr treble yrh yarn round hook RS right side tr2tog treble 2 together – (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook magic ring to make a magic ring, hold yarn in your hand and wrap working yarn around forefinger twice to create ring, slip ring off your finger and insert hook to pick up first st, ch1, then work the necessary sts for round 1 and close the ring by pulling the loose end

There just aren’t enough highpitched squealing noises to describe just how much we love this. Babies are destined to be dressed up in all sorts of adorable outfits, but this heart-meltingly sweet Thumper set has managed to make the whole of Team Mollie broody in one fell swoop. Designed to fit 0-6 months or 6-12 months, make a version in pink or blue for the little one in your life, then get ready to fill your camera roll with pure Instagram gold. Instructions The set is made up of a hat and a pair of bottoms. The hat is made by crocheting in the round, then making two ears and sewing them on. The bottoms are made by crocheting one flat piece, then joining it at the waist with two buttons. A pom pom tail is then sewn onto the back to finish. The pattern is written for 0-6 months, with the pattern for 6-12 months in brackets, increasing in order of size e.g. 1 (2) sts. Hat Round 1 using Yarn A, start with a magic ring, ch3 (counts as 1tr), 9 [11] tr in ring, pull ring tight, ss to top of starting ch3 [10 (12) sts] Round 2 ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in each st around, ss to top of starting ch3 [20 (24) sts] Round 3 ch3 (counts as 1tr), *2tr in next st, 1tr in next st; repeat from * to last st, 2tr in last st, ss to top of starting ch3 [30 (36) sts] Round 4 ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr in next st, *2tr in next st, 1tr in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * to last st, 2tr in last st, ss to top of starting ch3 [40 (48) sts] Round 5 ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr in each of next 2 [3] sts, *2tr in next st, 1tr in each of next 3 [4] sts; repeat

from * to last 1 [4] sts, 2tr in next st, 1tr in each of next 0 [3] sts, ss to top of starting ch3 [50 (57) sts] Round 6 ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr in each of next 3 [5] sts, *2tr in next st, 1tr in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * to last st, 2 [1] tr in last st, ss to top of starting ch3 [60 (67) sts] Round 7 ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr in each st around, ss to top of starting ch3 Repeat Round 7 a further 5 (7) times Last round ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each st around, join to 1st dc with a ss Break yarn, fasten off and weave in the end. Ears (make two) Foundation using Yarn A, ch5 (8) Row 1 1tr in 3rd ch from hook (ch2 missed does not count as st), 1tr in each st to end, turn [3 (6) sts] Row 2 ch3 (does not count as st here and throughout), 2tr in first st, 1tr in each st until last, 2tr in last st, turn [5 (8) sts] Rows 3 and 4 repeat Row 2 [9 (12) sts] Row 5 ch3, 1tr in each st to end, turn Repeat Row 5 a further 5 (9) times Row 11 (15) ch3, tr2tog, 1tr in each st to last 2 sts, tr2tog, turn [7 (10) sts] Rows 12 and 13 (16 and 17) repeat Row 11 (15) [3 (6) sts) Last row ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each st to end, then turn and work dc evenly around the sides of the ear Cut the yarn, leaving a 30cm (117/8") length, and fasten off. Bottoms Foundation using Yarn A, ch26 (29) Row 1 1tr in 3rd st from hook (ch2 missed does not count as st), 1tr in each st to end, turn [24 (27) stitches] Row 2 ch3 (does not count as st

here and throughout), 1tr in each st to end, turn Rows 3 to 8 (3 to 9) repeat Row 2 Row 10 (11) ch3, tr2tog, 1tr in each st to last 2 sts, tr2tog, turn [22 (25) sts] Rows 11 to 16 (12 to 17) repeat Row 10 (11) [10 (13) sts] Rows 17 and 18 (18 and 19) repeat Row 2 Row 19 (20) ch3, 2tr in 1st st, 1tr in each st up to last, 2tr in last st, turn [12 (15) sts] Rows 20 to 31 (21 to 33) repeat Row 19 (20), end last row with ch6, cut yarn approx. 15cm (6") from the hook and fasten off [36 (41) stitches plus 6ch] Tab section You will now create the tabs that will wrap around to the front of the bottoms Turn the work over and rejoin the yarn to the top left corner, at the opposite end of the row to the ch sts made Row 1 ch8, 1tr in 3rd ch from hook (ch2 missed does not count as st), 1tr in each ch and st across, turn [48 (53) sts] Row 2 (buttonhole row) ch6, miss these 6 sts and work 1tr in each st across, ch5, ss to bottom of last tr, turn Row 3 ch3 (does not count as st), 8tr in the 5ch loop, 1tr in each tr to end of row, 8tr in the 6ch loop, ss to the st immediately to the left and work ss into each st along the bottom of the tab until you reach the last row of the bottom section, ch3 and turn. The side facing is now the RS Work a tr edging around the entire piece as follows: 7tr along the bottom of the first tab, 1tr in each of the next 8 sts (to keep the buttonholes lying flat), 48 (53) tr across the top of the bottoms, 2tr CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 41


HOW TO MAKE… A BUNNY OUTFIT into each of the next 8 sts (to keep the buttonholes lying flat), 7tr along the bottom of the second tab, then continue to work tr evenly around the main body of the bottoms, join the last st to the 1st with a ss Cut the yarn approximately 15cm (6") from the last st and fasten off. Pom pom 01 Cut two cardboard circles, 8.5cm (33/8") in diameter, with a 2.5cm (1") hole in the centre. 02 Hold the circles together and wind a long strand of Yarn B around the circles until it runs out. Cut a second length of yarn and continue winding yarn around the circles until the cardboard is covered and the hole closes up. 03 Cut the yarn between the two pieces of cardboard, around the edge of the circle. Tie a strand of Yarn B between the two circles to secure the centre of the pom pom, and fasten with a tight knot. 04 Remove the cardboard, then trim the pom pom to neaten. 42 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

Finishing the hat 05 With the hat lying flat and RS facing out, locate the centre of the top of the hat and count four rows down the folded edge on the right. Mark this point with a scrap of yarn. 06 Repeat Step 5, this time along the folded edge on the left. 07 Fold the first ear in half along the length and use a length of yarn to whip stitch the short edges at the bottom of the ear together. 08 Repeat Step 7 with the second ear, then whip stitch the ears to the hat at the marked points. Finishing the bottoms 09 Lay the bottoms in front of you, with RS facing down and the

buttonholes at the top. Fold the lower half of the bottoms up to meet the top edge of the bottoms. 10 Fold in the buttonhole tabs, over the front of the bottoms, so the waist measures 19cm (7½") (21cm (8¼")). Use a scrap of yarn to mark the centre point of each buttonhole on the front of the bottoms below. 11 Sew the buttons onto the bottoms at the marked points, making sure they’re attached securely. Turn the bottoms over. 12 Mark a point in the centre of the back of the bottoms, approximately 8 (11) rows up from the folded edge. Sew on the pom pom securely, then trim off or weave in any loose ends to finish.

Wool and the Gang Wool and the Gang sell patterns, yarn, kits and ready-to-wear pieces, all delivering fashion in a sustainable way – their uniquely soft and lustrous Shiny Happy Cotton is hand-picked on the north coast of Peru. www.woolandthegang.com


modern vintage Pretty up your kitchen with Emma Lamb’s retro granny circle potholder

CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 43


chart

c h ss dc tr 2tr 3tr 6tr start

HOW TO MAKE… A POTHOLDER MATERIALS QDMC Petra size 3, 100% cotton, 100g/ 280m per ball, one ball each in Ecru (Yarn A), Yellow (05742) (Yarn B), Emerald (53814) (Yarn C), Sky (54463) (Yarn D), Orange (05608) (Yarn E), Pale Pink (54461) (Yarn F) Q3mm (UK 10, US D/3) crochet hook QYarn needle

ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) sp space ch chain ch-sp chain space ss slip stitch dc double crochet tr treble WS wrong side FINISHED SIZE Approx. 18cm (71/8") diameter

TENSION 7 rounds in tr sts is approx. 10cm (4")

Crochet Home This project was taken from Crochet Home by Emma Lamb, published by David and Charles (£14.99). Inside, you’ll find 20 beautiful crochet projects, all with an air of vintage charm. www.sewandso.co.uk

44 MOLLIEMAKES.COM CROCHET

As easy to work as your basic granny square, this straightforward granny circle can be crocheted in just an evening. Made using DMC’s soft yet sturdy cotton yarn in pretty pastel shades, it will withstand regular washing, is resilient to high temperatures and adds a touch of vintage charm to your kitchen. Who knew the humble potholder could be so versatile? Instructions The potholder is made by joining two circular panels. The front and back panels are crocheted using the same pattern, but you’ll need to leave a 30cm (117/8") tail of yarn before starting the front panel – this will be used to join the centre. Once the panels are joined, an edging is worked around the outside, and a hanging loop added. Front/back panel (make 2) Foundation using Yarn A, ch5, ss to form ring

Round 1 ch4 (counts as 1tr, ch1), (1tr, ch1) 7 times into ring, ss into 3rd of starting ch4 [8tr and 8 1ch-sps] Round 2 ss into next 1ch-sp, ch3 (counts as 1tr), (1tr, ch1) into same 1ch-sp, (2tr, ch1) into each 1ch-sp around, ss into 3rd of starting ch3 [16tr and 8 1ch-sps] Round 3 ch4 (counts as 1tr, ch1), (3tr, ch1) into each of next 6 1ch-sps, 2tr into last 1ch-sp, ss into 3rd of starting ch4, break yarn and fasten off [24tr and 8 1ch-sps] Round 4 join Yarn B in any 1ch-sp, ch3 (counts as 1tr), (1tr, ch1, 2tr, ch1) into same 1ch-sp, (2tr, ch1) twice into each 1ch-sp around, ss into 3rd of starting ch3, break yarn and fasten off [32tr and 16 1ch-sps] Round 5 join Yarn A in any 1ch-sp, ch3 (counts as 1tr), (2tr,ch1) into same 1ch-sp, (3tr, ch1) into each 1ch-sp around, ss into 3rd of starting ch3, break yarn and fasten off [48tr and 16 1ch-sps] Round 6 join Yarn C in any 1ch-sp and work as given for round 4,


break yarn and fasten off [64tr and 32 1ch-sps] Round 7 join Yarn D in any 1ch-sp, ch3 (counts as 1tr), 1tr into same 1ch-sp, 2tr into each 1ch-sp around, ss into 3rd of starting ch3, break yarn and fasten off [64tr] Round 8 join Yarn E between any 2 sets of 2tr of previous round, ch3 (counts as 1tr), (1tr, ch1) into same place, (2tr, ch1) between all sets of 2tr around, ss into 3rd of starting ch3, break yarn and fasten off [64tr and 32 1ch-sps] Round 9 join Yarn A in any 1ch-sp, ch3 (counts as 1tr), 2tr into same 1ch-sp, 3tr into each 1ch-sp around, ss into 3rd of starting ch3 [96tr] Round 10 ch3 (counts as 1tr), 3tr into each sp between sets of 3tr of previous round, 2tr into last sp, ss into 3rd of starting ch3, break yarn and fasten off [96tr] Round 11 join Yarn D into sp between any 2 sets of 3tr, ch3 (counts as 1tr), (2tr, ch1) into same sp, (3tr, ch1) into each sp between sets of 3tr, ss into 3rd of starting

ch3, break yarn and fasten off [96tr and 32 1ch-sps] Round 12 join Yarn F in any 1ch-sp and work as given for round 5, break yarn and fasten off [96tr and 32 1ch-sps] Round 13 join Yarn B in any 1ch-sp and work as given for round 4, break yarn and fasten off [128tr and 64 1ch-sps] Joining the panels Weave in the loose ends of the front and back panels. Lay the front and back panels with WS together and line up the stitch pattern at the centre. Using the yarn needle and the 30cm (117/8") yarn tail from the front panel, whip stitch the two panels together through the centre hole and tr sts of Round 1. Fasten off yarn between the two panels and weave in the loose end. Edging All of the edging sts are worked through corresponding 1ch-sps of

both panels together. With front panel facing, line up the stitch pattern at the edge of both the panels Round 1 join Yarn A in 1ch-sp in the centre of any 2tr repeat of previous round, ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc into same 1ch-sp, *6tr into next 1ch-sp, 1dc into next 1ch-sp; repeat from * another 4 times To make the hanging loop, 3dc into next 1ch-sp, 1dc into next 1ch-sp, ch15, working backwards ss into the first dc after the previous 6tr, ss into the last tr made, working forwards 20dc into 15ch-sp, ss into same space as last dc before 15ch Continue Round 1 *6tr into next 1ch-sp, 1dc into next 1ch-sp; repeat from * another 24 times, 6tr into next 1ch-sp, ss into 1st dc, fasten off and weave in loose ends. Finishing Using a cloth to press the potholder, steam the reverse with a hot iron, block into shape, then leave to dry. CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 45


Crochet essentials Over the next few pages, you’ll find step-by-step guides to useful stitches and techniques for the projects inside this book

HOLDING THE HOOK

HOLDING THE YARN

Try both methods and see which works best

Even tension results in even stitches

PENCIL METHOD

KNIFE METHOD

METHOD ONE

METHOD TWO

Hold the hook in your dominant hand like a pencil, roughly 3-5cm (1¼-2") from the hooked end. If the hook has a flat area, you’ll be most comfortable holding it here.

Hold the hook between thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm (1¼-2") from the hooked end, resting the other end against your palm. This will give you lots of control.

Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your nondominant hand, then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.

Loop the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your non-dominant hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.

03 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the crochet hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.

04 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop, so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook

9

8

01 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your non-dominant hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.

02 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop, from front to back.

HOW TO COUNT

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted, and that the front is facing you.

01 Hold the hook in your dominant hand, and the yarn end and working yarn in your other hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anti-clockwise.

02 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn, and pulling it through the loop. This forms the first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat Steps 1-2 to form a chain length.

03 This is what the row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your non-dominant hand, near the hook, to keep the tension. Continue until you have all the chains needed.


SLIP STITCH (SS)

This stitch has no height, and is often used to join rounds

01 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain worked. Wrap the yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anti-clockwise direction.

02 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown), and then the loop already on the hook, to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.

WORKING IN ROWS

Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric

01 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the length of yarn coming from the ball is positioned behind the hook.

02 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see above). Then, work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (DC) US TERM: SINGLE CROCHET

One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric

01 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

02 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

03 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving two loops on the crochet hook.

04 Yrh again, then pull the yarn through both loops to make the double crochet, leaving one loop on the hook.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (HTR) US TERM: HALF DOUBLE CROCHET

A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and looks slightly looser than double crochet

01 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work up to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

02 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yrh again.

03 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (giving three loops on the hook).

04 Yrh again, then pull the yarn through all three loops to make the half treble crochet. Work htr into the next stitches to the end of the row.

CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 47


TREBLE CROCHET (TR) US TERM: DOUBLE CROCHET

One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch

01 Wind yarn round hook (yrh), then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.

02 Wrap yrh and pull the yarn through the stitch only.

03 You will now have three loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through the first two loops on the hook.

04 Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining two loops on the hook. The treble crochet is now complete.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (DTR) US TERM: TREBLE CROCHET

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (TTR) US TERM: DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET

This is used as an elongated version of the treble (above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 01 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 02 Yrh, pull yarn through the ch loop only (four loops on hook). 03 Yrh and pull yarn through two loops only (three loops on hook).

This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 01 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh three times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 02 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 03 **Yrh, draw loop through two

04 Yrh and pull yarn through two loops only (two loops on hook). 05 Yrh and pull yarn through the remaining two loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 06 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

HOW TO COUNT STITCHES Check your work is correct

1

1

2

2

3

3

4

4

5

5

6

6

7

8

7

9

Being able to count your stitches is very important, and helps to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row to prevent mistakes. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see top left picture). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see bottom left).

loops only. Repeat from ** three times more and the triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 04 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work one triple treble, inserting hook under the top two loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

TURNING CHAIN (T-CH)

For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain

In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of chains. The table below tells

you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch, depending on which stitch you’re using. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.

STITCH

Add to foundation chain before starting the row

Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)

For turning chain (counts as first st)

Double crochet

1 ch

1 ch*

1 ch*

Half treble

1 ch

2 ch

2 ch

Treble

2 ch

3 ch

3 ch

Double treble

3 ch

4 ch

4 ch

Triple treble

4 ch

5 ch

5 ch


HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH Secure your yarn ends and block if needed

Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn roughly 15cm (6") from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally.

INCREASING AND DECREASING

Shaping stitches are vital for making garments

INCREASE To increase one

stitch is easy – just work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. Once you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.

DECREASE For a quick

decrease, skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish them both together.

SEWING SEAMS

You can join crochet seams with a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods

01 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the easiest and neatest way to join seams together. Place two pieces of crochet with right sides together and oversew them as shown above, but using matching yarn.

02 To slip stitch a seam, place the work with right sides together. *Insert the hook into both edge stitches, yarn round hook and pull through to complete a slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches.

03 For a double crochet seam, place the crochet pieces with right sides together, or with wrong sides together if you want to create a visible seam. Work as you would for a slip stitch seam, but using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

04 A useful variation on the double crochet seam, the double crochet and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed for your make. Work one double crochet and one chain alternately.

HOW TO CHECK YOUR TENSION

Make and measure a swatch to check your tension Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm (6") square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm (4") apart. Next, place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm (4") apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose and you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than the rows, as you can always work more or fewer rows.

CROCHET MOLLIEMAKES.COM 49


HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR

FOUNDATION RING

01 Before you work the final yarn round hook (yrh) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old length of yarn and pick up the new one with the hook.

01 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yarn round hook.

Create stripes and other colour effects

02 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.

Create a foundation ring for working in the round

02 Next, pull the yarn through two loops on the hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given directly below.

WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING

Make circles, tubes and other shapes by working rounds of crochet stitches

01 Make a foundation ring (as described above right) and then work the correct number of chains for the t-ch, for example, 3ch for a treble.

ROUNDS OR SPIRALS

02 Work the stitch as you would on a row, but insert the hook into the centre of the ring rather than each chain loop. For a treble, yarn round hook (yrh), insert into the ring.

03 Continue with the treble stitch, working in the same way as you would on a row, so yrh and pull yarn through the loop. Yrh and pull the yarn through the first two loops.

04 Finish off the treble stitch by working yrh and pull the yarn through two loops. Continue making stitches into the ring as instructed in the pattern.

JOINING ROUNDS

Finish off each round of crochet stitches neatly using a slip stitch

Check which technique to use

Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see the steps on the right). Other patterns are worked in a spiral, so you don’t need to spend time joining the rounds at the end – just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.

01 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.

02 Place yrh, then pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch, and through the original stitch on the hook to slip stitch the round together.

03 Before working another round, make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless instructed otherwise.


With thanks to... Emma Friedlander-Collins Emma loves colour and pattern, and finds inspiration in almost anything. Past examples include doughnut sprinkles, a 70s concrete block, and a Brighton car park. www.mrssteelschool.blogspot.co.uk

Miki Hemphill When Miki’s not designing bright boho patterns, she can be found squishing yarn, making glittery unicorn horn crochet hooks, and restoring her narrowboat. www.sfmgs.co.uk

Mandy O’Sullivan Aussie crochet designer, photographer and guesthouse owner Mandy says she’s a jack of all trades. She loves all crafts, but has a soft spot for those that use yarn. www.redagape.com.au

Ilaria Caliri Ilaria was taught to crochet by her mum and grandma. She fell in love with the possibilities of crochet, and especially adores designing amigurumi animals. www.airalidesign.com

All DMC crochet cottons are made with the highest quality fibres, meaning your garments hang better, and accessories hold their shape longer. With a wide range of fine crochet threads and cosy merinos, plus Wool And The Gang and Sirdar, there’s a DMC yarn for every project.

Editorial team Editor Cath Dean, Deputy Editor Nikki Arnold, Senior Art Editor (on maternity leave) Helena Tracey, Art Editor Kit Cheung, Production Editor Yvette Streeter, Digital Editor (on maternity leave) Nina Dyer, Acting Digital Editor Hannah Carr, Picture Editor Emma Georgiou

Other contributors Carolyn Bunt, Becki Clark, Hannah Cross, Charlotte Gray, Simone Francis, Emma Lamb, Molla Mills, Wool and the Gang


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