Winter is here
IS IT TIME TO EXAMINE WHAT
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10/31/12 3:03 PM
TABLE OF CONTENTS
A view of Mt. Mansfield from the trails of Stowe Mountain Resort. p. Ben Sarle
WINTER 12-13 BOOK REVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 CALENDAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 VERMONT B&B’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 PEOPLE OF VERMONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 CUMBANCHA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 BILLY BRAUER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 SNOW KINGDOM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
WINTER FASHION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 WINTER LIBATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 THE CROP BISTRO & BREWERY . . . . . . . . 28 VERMONT TREASURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 WAITSFIELD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 VIEWPOINT/PUZZLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Follow @destinationvt on Twitter for calendar updates and prizes!
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
Recent Releases from Wind Ridge Publishing
MASTHEAD WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont is published four times per year. It is produced and published by Wind Ridge Publishing, Inc. of Shelburne, Vermont. Destination Vermont is dedicated to informing and entertaining Vermonters and the thousands of people who travel through Vermont each year. Please direct all inquiries to:
Exotic Tails A Veterinarian’s Journey
Steven B. Metz, D.V.M. $16.95
Dr. Metz shares humorous and heartwarming stories from his fourdecade career as a veterinarian for exotic, wild, and domestic animals.
PO Box 752, Shelburne, VT 05482 (802) 985-3091 firstname.lastname@example.org
The Squirrel Diaries Tales from a Wildlife Rehabilitator
Astrid Helena Nicolay $16.95
Vermont resident and wildlife rehabilitator Astrid Helena Nicolay parlays a dozen years of wit and wisdom into a collection of heartwarming, humorous, and educational tales about tending the cadre of rescued squirrels.
Brewing Change Behind the Bean at Green Mountain Coffee Roasters Rick Peyser and Bill Mares $16.95 Foreword by Bob Stiller
Brewing Change shares the true and inspiring story of one man’s quiet, successful crusade to change the world of coffee and improve the lives of coffee farming families around the globe.
Publisher & Editor Holly Johnson Advertising Sales Shirley Reid Design ben sarle Greg Forber Contributing Writers Julia Donnini Darcy and Dale Cahill shirley reid lin stone lettie stratton KIP M. ROBERTSON
There and Back Commentary by a Former Foreign Correspondent Barrie Dunsmore $26.95 Foreword by Ted Koppel
This is an insightful collection of thoughtful, informed commentaries on today’s world events as seen through the eyes of a renowned former ABC News foreign correspondent and veteran reporter.
Contributing Photographers CRAIG THOMAS ben sarle MIKE WORTHINGTON MARK LUND BENJAMIN BLOOM STEPHEN MEASE KRISTEN NAGIBA
Printed by Dartmouth Printing Co.
3:14 and Out A Collection of Vermont Public Radio Commentaries Bill Mares $14.95
Mares is often called a Renaissance man. It will show in the breadth of these wise, witty, and warm Vermont Public Radio commentaries reminding us the world is interesting and thinking can be fun.
Burlington A Sense of Place
A four season visual tour of the Queen City as seen through the eyes of Vermont’s awardwinning photographer, Paul O. Boisvert.
Peter A. Gilbert Foreword by Jay Parini $15.95
Vermont Public Radio commentator and Executive Director of the Vermont Humanities Council Peter Gilbert has adapted his monthly VPR three-minute commentaries into this collection for readers.
82 Remsen Street Coming of Age in Brooklyn Heights
Paul O. Boisvert $34.95
I Was Thinking… Travels in the World of Ideas
Alice D. Outwater $18.95
Outwater’s 1930s and ‘40’s Brooklyn Heights coming-of-age memoir is America’s version of Downton Abbey and Upstairs / Downstairs.
Available at your local bookstore or online at www.WindRidgePublishing.com
BOOK REVIEW words // Kip M. Roberson, Pierson Library Director
I Was Thinking: Travels in the World of Ideas Peter A. Gilbert Don’t let the fear of reading a collection of essays creep into your decision of whether or not to pick up this book. “I Was Thinking” is a compilation of Vermont Public Radio commentaries by Peter A. Gilbert, the Executive Director of the Vermont Humanities Council. The ideas expressed in Gilbert’s commentaries cross the spectrum of all disciplines from politics to religion, history to pop culture, and sports to literature. Gilbert writes in a clear, concise and, more impor tantly, an accessible manner. His words are simple yet his ideas are insightful and thought provoking.
that express the author’s opinion while challenging the reader to ponder that idea and to formulate his or her own opinion. The broad themes of the five chapters are “Thinking and Other Inherently Dangerous Activities,” “The Past Isn’t the Past,” “The Power and Pleasure of Poetry,” “Robert Frost” (Gilbert is Frost’s literary executor), and “Vermont, These Green Hills and Silver Waters.” Each entry examines a problem or issue that confronts humanity today but then Gilbert adds historic perspective, mixes in just the right amount of humor and delivers a treat for the reader’s mind to savor long after.
“I Was Thinking” is divided into five thematic chapters, each containing a selection of interrelated commentaries
Perhaps, the most insightful essay in this collection is “The Hazards of Reading.” If there is an overarching message to be
found in this book, it can be found in this page and a half long piece of philosophy. In this piece, Gilbert warns the reader about something extremely dangerous —reading! He explains that “reading can lead to thinking, and there’s no knowing where that can lead.” Reading can lead to curiosity, to knowledge, to wisdom, and, yes, even to fun. Read! Read anything, but if you’re looking to embark on a journey that is both satisfying and important, pick up this book and travel the world of ideas shared within its pages. And be prepared to continue the journey as you begin to explore your own ideas about the world around you.
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
DAILY, THROUGH THE WINTER
Rocket-Shoeing Adventure, WAITSFIELD Come and meet the infamous Mad River Rocketsled. Snowshoe up the Green Mountains along the Lincoln Gap road, which is closed during the winter due to the many curves and steep terrain, then rocketsled the whole length down. This fun and safe adventure will make you feel like an Olympic champion! $55 per person, Includes snowshoes and sleds. 11 am to 2 pm. Advanced reservations required. www.clearwatersports.com (802) 496-2708
JANUARY 1 - MARCH 31
Winter Tour, RUTLAND/KILLINGTON/ LUDLOW/MANCHESTER Tour the beautiful winter countryside with Vermont Backroad Tours in our touring van or bus. Group discounts available. For families on a Vermont ski outing with members that don’t ski, Vermont Backroad Tours is a “must do” activity. Experience the winter beauty of Vermont. Tours daily. 2-hour tour $30 pp, 3.5-hour tour $50 pp. www.vtbackroadtours.com (802) 446-3131
FEBRUARY 1 - 28
Romantic Valentine Night Away, STRONG HOUSE INN, VERGENNES Celebrate Valentine’s during the month of February. Bring your sweetie anytime during the month of February and celebrate with a bottle of wine and chocolates in your room. 15 percent off your room rate for deluxe and luxury rooms. Call for reservations. www.stronghouseinn.com (802) 877-3337
FEBRUARY 1 - APRIL 15
Winter Maple Sugar Tour, RUTLAND/ KILLINGTON/LUDLOW/MANCHESTER Tour the beautiful Vermont back roads past farms and fields and over covered bridges to visit a working sugarhouse. See the process of boiling maple sap to syrup, visit the sugar bush, and learn about the process of maple sugar. Individual and group tours available. 3.5-hour tours $50 pp leaving daily by appointment. Discount for groups of 10 or more. www.vtbackroadtours.com (802) 446-3131
DECEMBER 1, 8, 15, 22
Annual Christmas Tour Celebrate Christmas with Dickens at the Noyes House Museum. 1-5 pm. Donations accepted. www.noyeshousemuseum.org (802) 888-7617
Children’s Miniature Horse & Buggy Rides, BURLINGTON Visit the top block of the Church Street Marketplace for delightful rides in holidaybedecked carriages pulled by miniature horses from the Green Mountain Miniature Horse Club. 11 am-3 pm. www.churchstmarketplace.com (802) 863-1648
Holiday Stroll, VERGENNES Children of all ages visit and stroll with Santa, join in holiday activities, craft shows, and Christmas shopping. Eat breakfast with Santa at VUHS and enjoy a winter holiday Craft Fair, Bixby Library Silent Auction, and rotary wreath sale. Make decorations in Santa’s workshop, decorate cookies, and more. www.addisoncounty.com
Christmas in Weston, WESTON From sleigh rides to the arrival of Santa Claus, the whole town jumps on board. Visitors will enjoy caroling, unique gifts, raffles, local artists and vendors, and live music. Children enjoy face painting, ornament making, a petting zoo, storytelling, and crafts. 10 am-5 pm. Free. Voted a Top 10 Winter event by the Vermont Chamber of Commerce. www.westonvt.com (802) 228-5830.
14th Annual Country Christmas Open House, WAITSFIELD/WARREN Shop locally for your holiday gift giving during this one-day shopping event where shoppers can receive prizes, treats, and great discounts. Avoid the big box-shopping melee by supporting shops that are locally owned and operated. (802) 496-3409
T h e To y s Ta k e O v e r C h r i s t m a s , BURLINGTON For over 20 years The Toys Take Over Christmas has become a holiday tradition for children and adults alike. Enter the magical toyshop where the rag doll Sunny and friends attempt to warm the heart of the master toymaker, who selfishly wants to keep all the toys for himself. A proven crowd pleaser packed with holiday magic, color, music, and laughs. Ticket $14 for adults and $8 for children under 14. 10 am, 2 pm, and 6 pm showings. www.uvmtheatre.org (802) 656-2094
Flynn Center presents “A Christmas Carol” Featuring a 30-member cast, a live orchestra, elegant costumes, lively dancing, and show-stopping special effects, Nebraska Theatre Caravan’s beautifully staged musical adaptation of Charles Dickens’ classic, A Christmas Carol, is a perennial Flynn holiday favorite. This beloved performance shares the tale of tight-fisted, middle-class merchant Ebenezer Scrooge, and ultimately shows that a greedy world can be healed by brotherhood and unselfishness. 7 pm. Tickets: $15-$42. www.flynntix.org (802) 863-5966
Ri Ra’s Santa 5K, BURLINGTON Vermont’s Only All Santa Race! All participants receive a full Santa suit and a great Irish breakfast after the race at Ri Ra Irish pub. This 5K run is in historic Burlington, a scenic route starting on Church Street. Awards will be in five-year age increments plus overall male/ female. 10 am. www.events.runningroom.com
Atlantic Brass Quintet, BURLINGTON The Atlantic Brass Quintet is putting together a special program of music for the holiday season. UVM Recital Hall, 7:30-10 pm. $30 adult/$15 student. (802) 656-4455
Wassail Weekend at Billings Farm, WOODSTOCK Tour the festively decorated 1890 Farm House and make a historic ornament as a memento of your visit. Sunday: horse-drawn sleigh or wagon rides (weather permitting). 10 am–3:30 pm. www.billingsfarm.org (802) 457-2355
Holiday Comedy, “The Best Christmas Pageant Ever,” HYDE PARK In this hilarious holiday tale, a director who is struggling to put on the annual church Christmas pageant is faced with casting the Herdman kids - probably the most inventively awful kids in history! $18 standard admission, $12 for students & seniors (60+). Fri. & Sat., 7pm. Sun., 2 pm www.LCPlayers.com (802) 888-4507
Vermont Symphony Orchestra’s Holiday Pops Concert, BARRE/BURLINGTON/ RUTLAND The VSO Chorus helps ring in the season with a program that includes a Swedish carol, selections from Messiah, pieces that highlight brass and percussion, a lighthearted new work by a teenage composer, two sleigh rides, a singalong, wonderful De Cormier arrangements, and a salute to Woody Guthrie. Dec. 7 at the Barre Opera House at 7:30 pm, Dec. 8 at Burlington’s Flynn Theater at 7:30 pm, Dec. 9 at Rutland’s Paramount Theatre at 3 pm. www.vso.org
Stowe Festival of Trees and Light, STOWE This popular Stowe event began in 1980 and continues to replicate the spirit of the original Festival of Trees. Decorated trees represent a variety of cultures and countries of the world. The treasured show brings the community together to decorate evergreens, light Hanukkah lights, and cover the walls of the Helen Day Art Center with members’ beautiful artwork. www.helenday.com (802) 253-8358
H ng Comi n! Soo
Go to www.keepvermontweird.com for details 10% of proceeds will be donated to Therapy Dogs of Vermont A Christmas Carol. p. Courtesy of The Flynn
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
(above) Burlington First Night. p. Stephen Mease (right) The Nutcracker at VT Ballet Theater. p.Kristen Nagiba
18th annual BrewFest at Smuggler’s Notch, JEFFERSONVILLE Sample the finest in local & regional beers such as Otter Creek, Long Trail, and more with music, munchies, and prizes. A DJ spins the tunes and the Resort’s Mountain Grille puts on a tasty appetizer buffet. Tickets are $18 at the door for ages 21+. 6 pm-10 pm. www.smuggs.com (800) 521-0536
Chamber Music: Laredo, Robinson, Tenenbom & Hochman, BRATTLEBORO The Brattleboro Music Center presents Jamie Laredo, violin, Sharon Robinson, cello, Steven Tenenbom, viola, and Benjamin Hochman, piano. 3 pm at the Centre Congregational Church. To purchase tickets ($30, $20, $10) call the BMC. Sponsored by Against the Grain Gourmet. www.bmcvt.org (802) 257-4523
Victorian Holiday Open House, ST. JOHNSBURY Kick off the holiday season at this event for all ages at the Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium. Try your hand at the German art of paper cutting to create intricate snowflakes. Visit the museum’s collections, see a free holidaythemed planetarium show, and sample elegant holiday cookies donated by local artisans. 1:30-4:30 pm. Voted a Top 10 Winter Event by the Vermont Chamber of Commerce. www.fairbanksmuseum.org (802) 748-2372
Wo o d s Te a C o m p a ny i n C o n c e r t , BENNINGTON Woods Tea Company is an acoustic trio that performs fiery Celtic tunes, bluegrass, sea shanties, and American folk songs with ease and skill. All three members are fine vocalists and audiences often leave in awe of their wonderful harmonies. $15. 8 pm www.uubennington.org (802) 442-8829
Touch of Vermont Holiday Gift Market, MONTPELIER With nearly 50 Vermont artisans, the Touch of Vermont Holiday Gift Market is at Montpelier City Hall. Spread the word about the amazing products made in Vermont by giving them as gifts! The Touch of Vermont Holiday Gift Market is fully accessible and admission is free to all. 9 am-4 pm. www.touchofvt.org 802-595-0607
Mad River Chorale Holiday Concert, WARREN/WAITSFIELD “An Evergreen Holiday: Traditional Songs of the Season” is a joyous opening to the December holiday season, with a program of old favorites chosen by vote of the singers, and audience participation in a rousing singalong at the United Churches. 4 pm in Warren, 7:30 pm in Waitsfield. Adult: $15, Student: $10, Child 11 and under free. www.madriverchorale.org
Elf Express Train Ride, MANCHESTER CENTER This whimsical 2012 holiday train will be running from 10 am-4 pm! www.manchesterlionselftrain.com (802) 362-1645
Vermont Ballet Theater’s “Vermont’s Own Nutcracker,” BURLINGTON Follow the delightful adventures of Clara and the Nutcracker Prince as they conquer the evil Mouse King and travel on a mystical journey to The Land of Sweets where the enchanting Sugarplum Fairy hosts captivating dancers from around the world! $21-$33. Students, seniors and children under 12 receive a 10 percent discount. Dec. 15 at 2 pm & 7 pm; Sun, Dec. 16 at 1 pm & 6:30 pm at the Flynn Center for the Performing Arts. www.vbts.org/home.htm
Middlebury Messiah Sing, MIDDLEBURY Come join in this annual community arts event, more than 25 years in the running. Sing, play, or enjoy listening to favorite choruses from Handel’s Messiah. Singers & orchestra players welcome. Led by Jeff Rehbach, conductor of the Vermont Choral Union and the Middlebury College Community Chorus. 2 pm at the Middlebury Congregational Church. go.middlebury.edu/messiah-sing (802) 989-7355
RACE_SM_destination_VT_4.77x4.65.pdf 1 10/12/2012 11:08:37 AM
OCTOBER 6 - JANUARY 27, 2013
• • • • • • • •
Kids 12 & younger stay FREE Continental breakfast Free Wi-Fi Ski discount FREE use of local health club Special AARP rates Refrigerator & safe in every room Lush country surroundings, yet conveniently located on Rte. 7 Locally owned & operated
A Project of American Antropological Association Funded by Ford Foundation & National Science Foundation
An eye-opening exhibit challenging perceptions and beliefs on race.
Bring this ad for 15% Discount Call Direct:
Additional support provided by:
OPENING FEBRUARY 9, 2013
This exhibition and its tour are made possible by the generous support of the following sponsors.
ECHO Lake Aquarium & Science Center @ECHOvt
3229 Shelburne Rd. Shelburne
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
First Night Burlington, BURLINGTON It’s an extravaganza: This is the largest oneday performing arts festival in Vermont. First Nighters enjoy the sights and sounds of music, dance, theater, magic, puppetry, comedy, storytelling, and of course, fireworks. Please call or visit the website for button prices and packages. www.firstnightburlington.com (802) 863-6005
First Night Montpelier, MONTPELIER New Year’s Eve festival celebrates with lanterns, disco, and puppets plus hours of artists and activities in 14 downtown locations. First Night button holders will have their choice of more than 89 hours of programming throughout the Capital City. $12 for a single button and $40 for a family pass (four buttons). 12 pm-10 pm. www.montpelieralive.com
Open daily 7 a.m. - 5 p.m.
JANUARY JANUARY 5
MAKE VERMONT HOME Vermont offers a wide range of exciting business and job opportunities! Let the
Vermont Department of Labor
connect you with Vermont’s great employers! DEPARTMENT OF LABOR (802) 828-4301
Winter Tree ID at Northwoods Stewardship Center, EAST CHARLESTON Since Vermont winters can last from halfway through fall to halfway through spring, winter tree ID can be an invaluable skill. NorthWoods foresters will help you learn your ashes from your alders in this always-poplar course. Snowshoes available. $10 pp. 9:30 am - 12 pm. (802) 723-6551 x 115
Vermont Fancy Felines and Alouette Cat Club Cat Shows, BURLINGTON This annual event is fun for the entire family. More than 200 beautiful cats—many different breeds. Shop for cat furniture, grooming supplies, and more. Admission is charged. Sheraton Hotel & Conference Center. (410) 679-1874 www.catshows.us/vermontff
VPT’s Experience inspired by Downton Abbey, ESSEX A Downton Abbey-themed culinar y, educational and cultural immersion event to benefit Vermont Public Television at the Essex Resort & Spa. Donations accepted. www.facebook.com/daexp (802) 654-3663
Noye’s Fludde (Noah’s Flood) by Benjamin Britten, RUTLAND This one-act opera at the Paramount Theatre is a unique take on the well-known biblical tale of Noah and his Ark. www.operatheatreofweston.com (802) 775-0903
Horse-drawn sleigh rides at Billings Farm. p. Courtesy photo provided by Billings Farm & Museum
Claudia Schmidt in Concert, BENNINGTON For almost four decades, Claudia Schmidt has been exploring the nuances of acoustic music with her voice, 12-string guitar and mountain dulcimer with an exciting collection of original, traditional, and contemporary writing. $15. 7 pm at the Meetinghouse Cafe of Unitarian Universalist Fellowship. www.uubennington.org (802) 440-9816
Cyrus Chestnut Trio, MIDDLEBURY Virtuosic and playful, jazz pianist Cyrus Chestnut’s hard-swinging, soulful music blends contemporary jazz, traditional jazz, and gospel, with a taste of Latin and samba. Catch him at the Mahaney Center for the Arts Concert Hall at 8 pm. www.middlebury.edu (802) 443-3168
18th Annual Winter Trails Day, STATEWIDE Winter Trails Day of fers children and adults new to snow sports the chance to try snowshoeing and cross-country skiing without fees. Discover the great fitness and social benefits with these easy-to-learn winter sports. The event includes almost 100 resorts and Nordic Centers nationwide, and
gets 11,000 kids and adults on the snow each year. Vermont locations include Smuggler’s Notch, Rikert Nordic Center, and Strafford Nordic Center. www.snowlink.com (802) 236-3021
Burlington Chamber Orchestra Concert, COLCHESTER The Burlington Chamber Orchestra performs music of Gounod, Mozart, and Berwald at the McCarthy Arts Center at Saint Michael’s College at 8 pm. www.bcovt.org (802) 999-8881
JANUARY 14-16, FEBRUARY 16-24 Sleigh Ride Weekends at Billings Farm & Museum, WOODSTOCK Horse-drawn sleigh rides, sledding with jack jumper sleds, and programs and activities for all ages will be featured at the Billings Farm & Museum’s Sleigh Ride Weekends. 10 am-3:30 pm. www.billingsfarm.org (802) 457-2355
is both simple and genius. On the 5.3-mile Stowe Recreation Path, families and friends ski, walk, snowshoe, or run and participate in fun-filled activities grouped into stations each sponsored, organized, and staffed by local and area businesses and organizations. www.stowetourdesnow.com
Bald Mountain Snowshoe, WESTMORE Explore the wintery wonderland on the summit of Bald Mountain—the iconic pyramid peak visible all around the Northeast Kingdom. This is a physically challenging adventure, gaining 1500’ in elevation and covering 4.2 miles round-trip. Wear plenty of layers. $10 pp, includes snowshoe rental. 10 am-2 pm. (802) 723-6551 x 115
W i n t e r f e s t a t S h e l b u r n e Fa r m s , SHELBURNE Enjoy a day of wintery activities: sledding, snow play, and tasty treats! Bring your warm clothes and your winter spirit! www.shelburnefarms.org (802) 985-8686
Stowe Tour de Snow, STOWE Voted a Top 10 Winter Event by the Vermont Chamber of Commerce, the Tour de Snow
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
Stowe Winter Carnival, STOWE Every year during the month of January, Stowe comes alive with great winter fun featuring over ten exciting events, from the silly to the sublime. Events include the Stowe Super G Ski Race, Kids Carnival Kaos, the always hilarious Snowgolf & Snowvolleyball tournaments and the exciting NICA sanctioned Ice Carving Competition! www.gostowe.com (802) 253-7321 or (800) 247-8693
FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 2
Burlington Winter Festival, BURLINGTON Glistening with snow sculptures, ice carvings, and activities for people of all ages, the Burlington Winter Festival is a great way to experience the beauty of downtown Burlington and its Waterfront. (802) 864-0123
18 t h A n n u a l Pe n g u i n Pl u n g e , BURLINGTON Join Special Olympics Vermont for the 18th Annual Burlington Penguin Plunge. Invite your friends, co-workers, family, or classmates to brave the icy waters of Lake Champlain with you to raise awareness and funds for the 1,054 athletes of Special Olympics Vermont. 11 am at Burlington’s Waterfront Park. email@example.com (802) 863-5222 x105
Snowshoe Festival at the Green Mountain Club, WATERBURY Get out and shake off some cabin fever! A variety of hikes to choose from and free snowshoe demos are available. Celebrate with music, refreshments, workshops, and great prizes from generous local businesses! $8/member, $10 general public. www.greenmountainclub.org (802) 244-7037
Winter Jane Austen Character Weekend at the Governor’s House, HYDE PARK Choose any Austen character to be for the weekend and, if you like, dress for a country house of 1812. There will be tatting, crewel embroidery, rolled paper decoration, lots of games, a sleigh ride, and a few surprises to enliven winter days. You might even sneak into the 21st century and watch a Jane Austen movie. Rates start at $295 single or $260 per person double. www.OneHundredMain.com (802) 888-6888
Los Angeles Guitar Quartet, BURLINGTON The Los Angeles Guitar Quartet, a Grammy Award-winning group, is one of the most multifaceted ensembles in any genre, comprised of four virtuosic guitarists who bring a collective energy to the concert stage. Their thrilling programs range from Bach to Bluegrass, and they consistently play to soldout audiences throughout the world. UVM Recital Hall, 7:30-10 pm. www.uvm.edu/laneseries/2011/07/losangeles-guitar-quartet/ (802) 656-4455
Capital City Concerts presents Violinist Rachel Barton-Pine, MONTPELIER Virtuoso violinist Rachel Barton-Pine at the Unitarian Church of Montpelier at 7:30 pm. www.karenkevra.com (802) 793-9291 X9291
Chester Winter Carnival, CHESTER True community spirit in classic Vermont is evidenced with sled races, a scavenger hunt, dog sled rides, outdoor skating, and more. The weekend kicks off with a Winter Carnival Dinner on Friday. Free. Voted a Top 10 Winter Event by the Vermont Chamber of Commerce. www.yourplaceinvermont.com (802) 875-2693
57th Annual Brattleboro Winter Carnival, BRATTLEBORO Fun for all ages at locations all across town: kids activities, live music, sporting competitions, comedy, pancakes and other comfort foods, skating, skiing, sleigh rides, and more. www.brattleborowintercarnival.org (802) 348-1956
Annual Northeast Organic Farming Association Winter Conference, BURLINGTON Vermont agriculture is leading the nation’s localvore food revolution and organic food movement. Localvores, farmers, gardeners, educators, students, and apprentices gather for three days of exciting information, workshops, and networking. This year’s conference will have USDA Secretary Tom Vilsack as well as 78 workshops and a children’s conference. www.nofavt.org (802) 434-4122
Art in the Snow, BRANDON This event is for life-long learners and the curious. Open studios, classes, and demonstrations in a variety of visual arts media, artist talks, colorful galleries, The Wine Trail, evening music, fine gourmet cuisine or casual dining, antiques, books and special gifts. Cozy rooms in romantic Vermont country inns and charming B&B’s beckon. All day Saturday. Sunday 11 am-4 pm. www. brandon.org (802) 247-6401
Fred Harris Memorial Ski Jumping Tournament, BRATTLEBORO Other than Lake Placid, Harris Hill is the only Olympic-size 90-meter ski jump in the Northeast. This newly renovated ski jump will host the USSA Supertour finals, bringing the best American and European jumpers
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to the event. Music, food, and exciting and breathtaking jumps not to be missed. www.harrishillskijump.org (802) 254-4565
FamilyFun Magazine Winter Carnival, JEFFERSONVILLE Always a family favorite! FamilyFun Magazine teams up with Smugglers’ for this special Winter Carnival on our Village Green featuring music and live entertainment plus face painting, games, a bonfire, giveaways, and an outdoor barbeque. The festivities begin at 2 pm! www.smuggs.com
Wright’s Northeast Kingdom Ice Fishing Derby, NEWPORT Fishing in the winter? You bet! Observe or compete to catch the big one on the ice with Wright’s Northeast Kingdom Fishing Derby. Hook awards in the salmon, trout, walleye, and pike categories. Voted a Top 10 Winter Event by the Vermont Chamber of Commerce. $25. 12 pm-12 am. www.wrightssports.com (802) 334-6115
Igloo Build at the Montshire Museum, NORWICH Learn how to build an insulated, sturdy house, strong enough to support the weight of a polar bear, using nothing but water and a handsaw. After building your own snow dome sit comfortably inside and drink cocoa. www.montshire.org (802) 649-2200
Stowe Derby. p.Benjamin Bloom
See page 35 for puzzles
Stowe Derby, STOWE The challenge is the same today as it was at the Derby’s inception in 1945 - a race from the top of Mt. Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak, to the historic village of Stowe. Attracts recreational skiers and professionals alike. www.stowederby.com (802) 253-7704
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
Vermont B & B’s The Black Bear Inn
The Heart of the Village Inn
Wilder Farm Inn
Dreamhouse Country Inn
Willow Pond Farm
Yellow Farmhouse Inn
Green Mountain Inn
Beaver Pond Farm
Bolton Valley 800-395-6335 firstname.lastname@example.org
Bristol 802-453-2805 email@example.com Bristol 802-453-7026 firstname.lastname@example.org
The Old Hotel
Bristol 802-453-2567 email@example.com
The Willard Street Inn
Burlington 802-651-8710 firstname.lastname@example.org
Inn at Buck Hollow Farm Fairfax 800-849-7985 email@example.com
The Inn at Grace Farm
Fairfax 802-242-4043 firstname.lastname@example.org
The Hidden Garden
Hinesburg 802-482-2118 email@example.com
Sleepy Hollow Inn
Huntington 802-434-2283 firstname.lastname@example.org
Shelburne 866-985-9060 www.heartofthevillage.com Shelburne 802-985-8505
Stone Hill Inn
Waitsfield 802-496-9935 email@example.com Waitsfield 802-496-4263
Warren 800-685-8285 innkeeper@BeaverPondFarmInn.com
Stowe 802-253-6282 firstname.lastname@example.org
Ten Acres Lodge
Moose Meadow Lodge
The Gables Inn
Old Stagecoach Inn
Three Bears at the Fountain
Stowe 800-327-7357 email@example.com Stowe 802-253-7730 firstname.lastname@example.org Stowe 802-253-1882 email@example.com
Weathertop Mountain Inn
Waterbury 802-244-5378 firstname.lastname@example.org Waterbury 802-244-5056 email@example.com Williston 802-879-6001 Pet Friendly
Arlington’s West Mountain Inn
Arlington | 802-375-6532 | firstname.lastname@example.org
Kirriemuir Heights North Ferrisburg 802-425-3100 email@example.com
The Woods at Wihakowi
Northfield (877) 966-3588, (802) 778-0205 www.thewoodsvt.com
An inn for all seasons nestled on a mountainside with 150 acres to explore. Eighteen charming rooms, fine country dining and spirits. This is an inn where warmth extends beyond the fireplace.
PEOPLE OF VERMONT
An interview with Mike and Stephanie Olson of Keep Vermont Weird words // Lettie Stratton After living in California and working as a graphic designer and an advertising manager, respectively, Mike and Stephanie Olson moved to Vermont ten years ago with two young daughters in tow. Today the couple runs Keep Vermont Weird, an organization that serves to remind people to buy locally, support small businesses, and maintain the eclectic vibe that makes the Green Mountain state so special. The duo makes sure their message reaches locals and tourists alike through purveying t-shirts and bumper stickers (and soon hats, coffee mugs, and a photo book) that display the Keep Vermont Weird slogan. What inspired the idea for Keep Vermont Weird? MO: There have been a few “weird” movements around the world, in Portland, Oregon and Austin, Texas for example, which are based upon supporting the local community and highlighting what attracts people to these cities. We always hear about “eat local,” and “know your farmer,” and that’s great, but we wanted to create something that includes retail, restaur ants, and more. We want to encompass the state of Vermont as whole. SO: We love the pride that people take
in living here. Vermonters support each other and come together as a community when bad things happen. That’s why we decided to leave California and raise our family here. This place is different. How long have you been working on this project? MO: We’ve had the idea for six years and had our product in stores like the Outdoor Gear Exchange in Burlington for the past four years. SO: The business has been steadily grow ing by it self. We don’t do any marketing and we have no salespeople. We select the places we sell, choosing locally owned stores that encompass the vibe of Vermont that we love. People often ask you what Keep Vermont Weird means. What do you tell them? MO: We tell them, “You tell us!” It is whatever it means to you. To me it’s about making sure local businesses survive so we continue to have this unique environment we live in. SO: Keep Vermont Weird is a little tonguein-cheek and sometimes people don’t get it. It’s not for everyone. Have you received any str ange or
memorable responses after saying, “You tell us”? SO: It’s great because people interpret things so differently and really make it their own. An older gentleman came up to us and at first wasn’t sure about being “weird,” but after we explained to him that our “weird” is a good thing, he embraced it and actually bought a few shirts! Do you have any favorite local businesses? MO: We love to support The Warren Store and any place that sells our shirts! SO: With economy as it is today, anyone who has a successful local business in a small community is a hero. MO: Vermont is full of talented people. It’s almost intimidating. Every time we go out, we meet new interesting people. What else do you want readers to know? MO: Our message is simple: support local as much as you can. That’s why we have a special place here in Vermont. Our t-shirts are quirky and not meant to be serious. They’re meant to cross brand with other companies. If someone goes into a place to buy a t-shirt, maybe they’ll come out with five other things as well; that’s how [our] businesses grow.
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS:
CUMBANCHA words // Lettie Stratton photo // Mike Worthington
An impromptu gathering or party
Jacob Edgar is a busy man. A music researcher for Putumayo World Music and host of the PBS television show “Music Voyager,” it’s a wonder he has time to run Cumbancha—his own record label, booking agency, and music publishing business. With Cumbancha, Edgar travels all around the world in search of exciting world music to bring to the ears of new audiences both at home and abroad.
Edgar grew up in Plainfield where he took advantage of his parents’ eclectic record collection and cultivated a passion for music of all kinds. His interest in travel began at a young age as well. Edgar always traveled with a guitar or trumpet in tow and as a young adult played songs in the streets—discovering and using the universal language of music to meet
and travel have always been connected. After graduating from Oberlin College, he searched for a way to fuse these two interests and found that a master’s degree in ethnomusicology would allow him to do just what he wanted: follow melodies, beats, and lyrics around the globe. Operating out of an old farm barn in Char lot te, Edgar’s Cumbancha has exposed audiences to world music since 20 06. W ith floor-to-ceiling shelves crammed full of thousands of CDs (and bathroom shelves displaying a collection of toothpastes from around the world, each tube presumably with its own memory or adventurous tale attached), Cumbancha’s headquarters is a dreamland for music aficionados and travel fiends. Cumbancha certainly turns audiences on to new music and new places; the label inherently fosters an appreciation and respect for diversity. “Music can tell you a lot about a place,” Edgar says. “Often what you find out is surprising.” Readers may be surprised to learn of the hardships that often inspires the musicians and music Cumbancha produces. Edgar works with a wide range of artists, each with their own story of discovery. Although some are very famous within their home countries, others are unknown and ignored. Many hail from places threatened and challenged in the face of globalization—places where they must fight against discrimination
and attempts to hold onto their musical heritage. According to Edgar, music is an effective tool with which to address social issues such as these. When working with groups such as Sierra Leone’s Refugee All Stars or Central America’s Garifuna Collective, Edgar’s goal is to help these musicians revitalize their expressions. Oftentimes, Cumbancha’s helping hand has assisted the musicians in transcending societal and/or cultural confines and has led to international touring success. “I approach success from all angles,” Edgar says. “Whether we’re recording here in Vermont or in a thatched roof shack by the sea, I do this because of my love for music and my love for the cultures it comes from.” Cumbancha works with artists who have both a message and widespread appeal. According to Edgar, the artists he selects make music you can listen to with your child and with your grandmother. “I’ve always said my dream and my goal with Cumbancha is to introduce the world to the next Bob Marley,” he commented. Edgar may not have found him or her yet, but surely, there are many worthy musicians in all corners of the world awaiting Cumbancha’s inspired and respectful notice. For artist profiles, events, videos, and more information about Cumbancha, visit www.cumbancha.com.
and connect with people from different cultures. “Music opens doors,” he says. “It often provides a common interest.” Whether a love for travel and exploration inspired Edgar’s enthusiasm for world music or a love for music prompted him to go out and explore the creativity of other cultures, the starting point does Photo by Shirley Reid not seem to matter. For Edgar, music
socially responsible businesses
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
BILLY BRAUER words // Lin Stone photo // Craig Thomas
A Vermont artist of national renown, Billy Brauer had worked as a printmaker and illustrator in New York City in the late 1960s when he decided to leave and transported himself to Warren in the Mad River Valley. “There was nobody here then and it was gorgeous. I bought a house and an acre of land for $15 thousand, and there really was no going back,” he said. “When you move out of the city you think that you will miss ‘all that’; but I know more and better painters here in Vermont than I did when I was in New York. There is something about this place, and the Mad River Valley in particular, that is freer and quite hospitable to people who wish to do something creative and different.” Firmly and happily ensconced in the Green Mountains, Brauer metamorphosed from printmaker to painter in the 70s. He was picked up and represented by the Chase Gallery in Boston in the 1980s, and his work became quite successful. “Jeff Chase and I did quite well together,” said Brauer. From there Brauer was represented in a southwest gallery, and more recently, he was picked up by Patricia Rovzar for her gallery in Seattle Washington. Further, and perhaps ironically, prints of some of Brauer’s paintings were made and carried by Target. Vermonters and visitors can find Brauer’s paintings in the West Branch and the Round Barn galleries, both in Stowe. Q: How would you describe your approach to painting?
BB: “I am not just a realist or just a figure painter. I cringe at those phrases because, to me, a bad painting looks just like a photo. When paintings look just like photos, I think the artist hasn’t done their real job; they have cheated and taken too many shortcuts. There are so many more important qualities than just accurate photographic-like renderings: for example, paintings have surface qualities, textures, depth, color, shadow and light, exaggerations for emphasis, and much more.
Ultimately, I would be confined to say that I am a representational figure painter. My job is to make the best paintings I can, regardless of what it’s about.” Q: You are not a Vermont landscape painter; what landscape do your paintings describe or represent? BB: I’m the last one to ask what my work is about—I don’t know the answers to what’s happening in the painting, but I do know that it’s not just a picture of something. I’m
really interested in what happens off the picture plane: the mystery of what happens in the shadows, the things yet to happen, the things that already have happened—the mysterious haunting shadows and images off to the side. Today I find that my subject matter sometimes drifts between the worlds: my thological; P ygmalion, chr ysalis images. But I don’t start with ideas, I start to paint, and then I let the ideas come and grow.
Q: How does Vermont’s artistic community inspire and support one another’s growth and work? BB: Well, one thing I’ve done and really do enjoy is teaching. For the last forty years I have taught the same ongoing class, a Thursday night life drawing and painting group, now held at Vermont College of Fine Arts. There I am teaching how to see, as well as the hand to eye coordination skills needed to render threedimensional illusions into two dimensions.
We generally have about 35 people, 10-15 newer members, but if everyone who participated came at one time we would have to hold the class at Yankee Stadium. Culture and the arts thrive here. We have many good painters, writers, musicians, and I think more than 40 architects nearby! My wife Wendy is the president of the Green Mountain Cultural Center and each summer they put on an opera drawing great talent for emerging artists—it’s like summer stock for the Met!”
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
words & photos // Darcy and Dale Cahill
Tucked up in the northeast corner of Vermont is a place so special that Vermonters call it The Kingdom...
Tucked up in the northeast corner of Vermont is a place so special that Vermonters call it The Kingdom, a place known for its rugged terrain and its pristine wilderness. It is home to the best mountain biking trail network in New England, cleanest fly fishing streams in the country, and from November to April it is a wonderland for winter sports. Although many think of downhill skiing and snowboarding when they think winter sports, the Kingdom boasts seven cross country touring centers with thousands of acres of trails. Thousands of winter visitorâ€™s flock to these touring centers every year. They offer lessons for young and old, guided daytime and moonlit tours, and miles and miles of trails. From the Kingdomâ€™s southernmost tour center, Craftsbury Outdoor Center, to the
northernmost center Memphremagog Ski Touring Foundation in Derby, skiers can jump on beautifully groomed and well signed cross country trails all over The Kingdom. Back country skiing, which combines alpine and Nordic skiing, is also a favorite. These skiers stretch skins on the bottom of their skis, click their heel s free and are able then to climb or go cross country in forests untouched by grooming machines. When faced with a fluffy back bowl or steep glade, they pull off their skins and stow them in the backpacks, lock their heels in, throw on some warm dry clothes and head down hill. Skinning is a great way to make first tracks and is fast becoming a new favorite for winter enthusiasts who want to get away from the crowds.
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
“Burke offers 250 more acres of space per skier than any other mountain in the area.” JOE KASPRZAK, Burke’s director of service operations
Skiers who prefer the traditional ski experience of groomers and a lodge where they can warm up with hot chocolate and burgers head to Jay Peak or Burke Ski Resort. Both Northeast Kingdom resorts offer high efficiency snow making, high speed chair lifts, and a range of winter activities for the entire family. It is also possible now to get a combo pass that covers both mountains. Over the past few years, Jay Peak has transformed into a four-season resort and conference center featuring a year-round indoor water park, a NHL-sized ice arena, a championship golf course, a fully appointed Nordic center and the deepest snow in the east. They are also the only ski resort in the world that dropped their ticket prices for the 2012-2013 ski season. JJ Tolland, Jay Peak’s Marketing Manager, explained that as the resort expands into a successful four season resort, they have the financial flexibility to make skiing and snowboarding less expensive for their guests both in and out of state. Burke has a more rustic homespun feel
than Jay Peak and they too have lots of snow and a range of winter sporting activities, including downhill skiing and boarding. Joe Kasprzak, Burke’s director of service operations commented, “Burke offers 250 more acres of space per skier than any other mountain in the area.” That means minimal lift lines and lots of time on the slopes. Over the summer, the trail crews cut in five new glades, making a total of fifteen. Their neighbors at the Kingdom Trails Nordic Center have a well-maintained trail system with over 60 kilometers of groomed trails. Their trails offer skiers
classic winter vistas that wind through pristine mountain wilderness areas. Last year they started a winter mountain biking event called Winter Bike that included group rides, refreshments, live music and a downhill race. While famous for its deep snowfalls and great alpine and Nordic skiing, the Kingdom is also a destination for snowmobilers who come for the over one thousand miles of VAST (Vermont Association of Snow Travelers) trails. Island Pond is considered the capitol of snowmobiling as it has trails that connect in all directions. The Kingdom has 27 snowmobiling clubs with hundreds
of volunteers that maintain their wellmarked trail systems. Gail Weed, treasurer of Burke’s snowmobiling chapter called the Drift Skippers says that her volunteers maintain over fifty miles of trails. When asked about the possibility of deep snow this winter she said, “predictions are looking good!” Snowmobilers in The Kingdom do not confine themselves to the VAST trail system. For the past two years Burke Ski Resort has hosted the season’s first race The East Coast Snocross. Last year the event featured the top Pro and amateur riders competing for points and a purse,
along with two shows by the high-flying Rave-X Outer Limits Sled Freestyle Tour. This year, skiers will be able to watch the competition as they ride the ski lift or from the comfort of the lodge. Bob Roscoe, owner of East Coast Snocross likes to launch the racing season at Burke, “because it gets us away from the hustle and bustle of southern Vermont. The people at Burke are also super friendly and helpful.” Whatever you’re looking for, skiing, snowmobiling, dog sledding, snowshoeing, ice climbing, skating, or racing mountain bikes in the snow, there is something for
every winter sport enthusiast in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom.
Dale and Darcy Cahill live in Vermont where they love to mountain bike, ski, and play music. They have written numerous articles for Bluegrass Unlimited, have written two books about tobacco sheds in the Connecticut River Valley, and own a ski bar in Smuggler’s Notch. You can learn more about their books at tobaccosheds.com.
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
FUNCTION, MAYBE A LITTLE FASHION words // Julia Donnini photos // Mark Lund
Powdered and exhilarating, the lift often seats pairs of skiers as seemingly mismatched as careless socks. On the left is a freestyler who simply tugged on Carhartts and flannels. The other, a snowboarder, sports a new Burton coat. An easy fashion melting pot, Vermont’s winter sport ensembles reflect the weather with a youthful flair, and the unique temperaments of its snow-loving patrons. Today’s winter activewear designers acknowledge that the “après-ski” culture misses the mark in the heart of real Vermont skiers. Vermonters tout battletested and long-lasting function over snow-bunny fashion to meet their practical requirements for active snow gear: welldesigned, resilient, functional layers are necessary for serious snow players’ jaunts in the great outdoors. Vermont resident Emily Copeland attended the ski academy in Stowe as a teenager and later skied at the college level for Dartmouth College. Observes Copeland, “Here there is a certain pride in practicality.” Like an “anti-fashion” tongue-in-cheek fashion statement, Copeland notes that many Vermonters also favor retro designs or styles that look worn and handed-down—a look that is more in vogue here than is most designer wear. With such a specific market, attention to
detail is key. Vermont’s brigades of North Face fans opt out of showy display— vanquished are fur-riddled ornamentation and reindeer-hide pants in favor of thoughtful, strong, simple classic designs. Welcome all winter clothing that maintains cold-weather comfort and movability! An industry leader, Patagonia, has carved its signature niche by consistently offering high quality, very practical, environmentally conscious, great designs to its consumers. Nellie Whitcomb of Burlington’s locally owned Patagonia retail store concurs with Copeland’s practical fashion view, “Vermonters are looking for function first and foremost.” Patagonia has seamlessly incorporated practical materials and designs with small touches of fashionconscious details, such as the ruching found in a line of women’s base layers. Further, when it comes to weather and waterproof garb, materials must maintain particularly high standards in terms of keeping wearers warm and dry; therefore, fabric breathability is essential for comfortable transitions from the lodge to the white-tipped peaks. Newer Patagonia styles such as the Mixed Guide Hoody offer both breathable fabrics and insulated warmth. Orage outdoor gear designers have taken advantage of practical opportunities
to distinguish its brand’s designs by meeting detailed cold weather needs— such as restructuring jacket front pockets for watertight storage and ease of accessibility. Another outdoor wear company, Arc’Teryx, also focused its lens to combine durability with innovative detailing, and carefully attended to features such as its “WaterTight” Vislon zipper that fends off the slush of the slopes. Surprisingly, this season’s colors borrow from a bold spring palate to enliven winter’s otherwise cool color scheme and rediscover the world in shades other than grey. Brands like Burton and Arc’Teryx are energized with startling flashes of neon pink and ripe plums. The former company’s celebrated Merino sock comes in a playful color array, a delightful small example of marrying function and fashion. Luxurious fashionista brands may channel the bells and whistles of Bollywood; however, Vermonters are a group too active to fuss with frivolity and find far more use for well-crafted, high quality, winter armor. Ultimately, our outfits simply won’t upstage the Green Mountain landscape blanketed with a fresh bed of new fallen snow—but winter’s disciples will brighten the hills when out on the slopes snug in their warm winter togs.
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
WINTER LIBATIONS words & photos // Julia Donnini X
In a state plush with artisanal spirits, the use of local ingredients now extends beyond food on the plate. One tilt of the glass reveals local apertifs and handcrafted infusions. Green Mountain farms, breweries, and distilleries use careful, collective hands to ensure quality and spunk down to the very last sip. Local berries and the state’s much-sought maple often sneak into the equation. With endless panache, this chilly season’s bartenders will tip Vermont ingredients into their
house-made sodas and bitters—a perfect antidote to the season’s nip. During the warmer months, Burlington bustles with the urgency to bask in the sun. More shoes than ever tread the collegiate streets. Accordingly, patios spring from restaurant fronts like pop-up picture books. As colder months inch closer, friends and couples flutter indoors. One such haven, The Bluebird Tavern, is elegantly snuggled into its downtown location. The restaurant
houses Megan McGinn and Chris Maloney, the restaurant’s two lead bartenders. Having spent the past 25 years pouring her own infusions, McGinn crafts seasonal cocktails with a keen and well-balanced palate. This season’s star on the cocktail menu is “Beets Impeared.” The Bluebird team infuses its vodka in-house for two weeks or longer using sweet Vermontgrown pears. The dashing potation is further enhanced with a carefully balanced mixture of rhubarb, beet bitters,
Featuring New England’s largest & best curated selection of craft beer, proper cocktails, eclectic wines with a full menu featuring local food and true Eastern North Carolina style barbecue.
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23 South Main Street, Waterbury, Vermont
As colder months inch closer, friends and couples flutter indoors... and Vermont cranberries. Often working hand-in-hand with neighboring Burlington artisans, such as Urban Moonshine bitters, Bluebird cocktails seamlessly embrace the use of local, artisanal ingredients. A natural follow-up step finds self-made sodas easing their way into restaurants, bars, and homes alike. Simultaneously simple and sophisticated, the task can take as little as one day. With raspberries on the bush well into October, a frozen bunch can be easily thawed. This fruity treat is the ideal addition to a ready mason jar. Similarly, ginger complements almost any effervescent tonic. For example, this up and coming creation has lent itself nicely to the Bluebird’s version of a classic cocktail, the “Dark ‘N Stormy” where the punch of ginger beer couples nicely with a full-bodied rum taunt. With a tip of the hat to its home state, Dunc’s Mill in Barnet distills maple and elderflower infused rum and gifts local mixologists with a sweet and warm ability to soothe any locolvore’s tongue.
True artists of the glass, Vermont-based distilleries utilize the environment with an inspired sense of responsibility. With help from head distiller Duncan Holaday, Todd Hardie, a beekeeper of 47 years, tweaked his focus to the creation of local elixirs when he created Caledonia Spirits, a company that produces gin using the sweet work of his bees. Another visionary in the beverage world, Chad Rich distills libations for Waterbury’s own shining star restaurant, Prohibition Pig. His commitment to each element is clearly illustrated by the state of his workspace. Rich describes his home as being “like a bat cave,” littered with dangling herbs he carefully collected from all over Europe. One pour of his personally distilled Chartreuse is pleasant and haunting—a warm syrupy sip with a kick from a wintery spice, star anise. Like the pies on your grandmother’s windowsill, Vermont’s localvore cocktails will sweeten and warm your winter with one spicy swallow of comfort and coldweather courage.
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
CROP BISTRO & BREWERY
WORDS // LIN STONE PHOTO // CRAIG THOMAS
If Crop Bistro and Brewery’s Chef Tom Bivins had lived in England in the late 1800s, he would likely have drunk tea and dark, malty, English strong ale with William Morris, the father of the Arts and Crafts movement. Why the time-travel connection? Morris’ Arts and Crafts movement rebelled against industrialization, Victorian overornamentation, and valued instead simple, good, handcrafted designs made of natural materials; additionally, Morris sought to bring art from the exclusive domain of the wealthy and into the modest lives of everyday, ordinary people. Chef Bivins translates and shares these values in his newest culinary endeavor at Crop Bistro and Brewery. Prior to Crop Bistro, Bivins was a white linen and executive chef at some of the area’s finest restaurants, including one of his first stops after graduating from the New England Culinary Institute , the Inn at Shelburne Farms. During Bivins’ tenure at the Pitcher Inn in Warren the restaurant won the prestigious Relais et Chateaux designation. Most recently, Bivins taught and was the Executive Chef at his alma mater, The New England Culinary Institute. Today, Bivins’ brings the fine art of farm fresh foods to rest on Crop’s more casual
wooden tables—an effort less commonly and less readily done.
Bistro’s case the proof was also in the appetizers, salads, entrees, and dessert.
“I gaine d s o many env ir onment al revelations while working at Shelburne Farms,” said Bivins. “That experience has had a huge and ongoing impact on my cooking career. He further explained, “In Vermont we’re particularly lucky because it’s relatively easy to make that somewhat more expensive commitment to purchase higher quality foods from small local farmers, rather than having to rely on buying most of our food from huge food commodity dealers. Here, I know my local farmers and their families, where they live, and how they grow their food. We try to work closely together and not to quibble about pennies so that our success can be mutual. This is good for the environment, the economy, and good for the palate. The food is inherently much more flavorful. I want the beet—parsnip –butter—beef—to be the best you’ve ever eaten. This way our seasonings, sauces, and side dishes are there to complement and balance the flavors; there is nothing to cover up and everything to enjoy.”
This writer and her dining companions enjoyed a full round robin of Crop Bistro’s seasonal offerings. We first shared an appetizer, the Butternut Squash Ravioli, which was served with cider-poached golden raisins and Farnum Hill Cider Sauce. The plump squash-filled pillows were so delectable and satisfying that our table’s not-yet-squash-lovers were converted by their first bite. Then two salads arrived: Endive and Pear with Boucher Family Farm Bleu Cheese, Candied Walnuts, and Sherry Vinaigrette; as well as Beets and Arugula with Warm Pecan Crusted Chevre and Lemon Herb Vinaigrette. They were each a masterful complement of flavors, of colors, and of textures—red roasted beets, pink wine-soaked pears, light and dark leafy greens, toasty soft cheese, crunchy brown nuts… not one visual nor taste bud pleasure was overlooked.
Readers and diners know well that the “proof is in the pudding,” and in Crop
For entrees, my daughter Scarlett had a perfectly tender and flaky Oven Roasted Halibut drizzled with lemon butter that was nestled in a rather glorious hill of sweet potato candied ginger puree complemented by a tumble of sautéed edamame. My
S I, L F, H A, I L
daughter Molly opted for the comfort of comforts: Chicken and Biscuits with delicately flavored cream sauce and seasonal vegetables. This was not a dish of swimming tiny chicken and carrot cubes— the tender chicken was pulled from the bone and filled the baking dish to overflowing. My son-in-law Craig and I concurred that the nip in the air called for a nip in the sauce and we both ordered something with a spirited dash. I had the Grilled Beef Tenderloin with Scotch Whiskey Sauce, Fingerling Potatoes, and Wilted Greens. Craig ordered Roast Duck Breast in Madeira-Burnt Orange Sauce, with Autumn Squash and Turnip Hash. Sigh. We all agreed: this flavorful,
beautifully presented, and satisfying meal was one of the best we’d eaten anywhere in the world. Warm, happy, and extremely well fed—let those autumn winds blow. Crop is not done sowing new seeds and growing: in December, it will open its own micro craft brewery. The brewmaster is still keeping his cards close to his chest; however, Bivins divulged that Crop plans to serve six regular session beers, interspersed with seasonal offerings. With decades of experience, innovation, and leadership, Chef Bivins has helped to elevate the world of farm-to-table dining to a highly regarded and very fine art. And
if it weren’t for the fact that Crop Bistro and Brewery is meant to serve not the just the visiting royals, but also the neighborhood and farmers where the food is grown, we’d have handed Bivins a pitchfork scepter and a Vermont laurel crown. Crop Bistro & Brewery 1859 Mountain Road Stowe (802) 253-4765 Open seven days a week, 11:30 am to close www.cropvt.com
Relaxed Vermont dining with a touch of the Adirondacks Adirondacks.
Serving Lunch into Dinner Tuesday-Sunday,opening at 11:30am Reservations Recommended 97 Falls Road, Shelburne | 985-2830 barkeatersrestaurant.com
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
VERMONT TREASURES A Creative Shopping Guide words & photos // Shirley Reid
You have taken the eat local challenge...
Next step? –eat off local dishes –drink from local mugs –bake with local pans
127 college street, burlington, vermont (802) 863-2221 30
My parents would occasionally park us with an unsuspecting babysitter and take off for a modest trip. When they returned, we would sit on the end of the bed and watch expectantly as treasures emerged from the suitcases. Delights like a cornhusk doll from Quebec or a Venetian glass bauble would appear in exotic paper, and the pleasure of unwrapping them was as exquisite as the gift itself. While in Vermont, visitors will discover some unique gifts and treasures that they can happily unpack upon their return. With this in mind, we set out on our own journey: spelunking to find some of Vermont’s most unique products. Vermont is home to some of the finest artists and artisans in the world (see our article about painter Billy Brauer on pg. 18). Did you know that the Parisian paintings of Burlington’s Katherine Montstream have been made into stylish purses? While you’re in town, take advantage of the winter version of the local artists’ Art Hop. Make your way on Dec. 14–16 to the Holiday sHop (yes, it is spelled that way), on Pine Street, which opens Friday night at 5 pm. Right outside the town of St. Johnsbury, is
the Stephen Huneck Gallery, which carries the late artist’s paintings, prints, and folk art carvings of dogs in various affectionate and humorous attitudes, including lifesized Labrador retrievers with wings. Everyone should own a flying dog or cat with a big smile. Seeing the studio and shop is a must for any Northeast Kingdom expedition, but travelers also can find his work online at stephenhuneck.com. Light switches made from old Vermont license plates by Aaron Stein are perfect for Green Mountain lovers and can be found at Art on Main in Bristol along with hand-dyed Ukranian Easter Eggs. Vermonters are nothing if not inventive. How about those chairs made out of skis? And Turtlefur hats? (Thank you to the person who figured out that wool makes your forehead itch!) If you happen to be on Church Street in Burlington check out the Frog Hollow Gallery for John Brickels’s amazing clay sculpture, “Rapunzel’s Tower”, and his very eccentric coffee cups. The cups are encoded with secret messages like “BZ”. Frog Hollow is the
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gallery to the stars of the Vermont craft world. You will find the work of over 200 artisans. Tootsie’s in Burlington carries organic cosmetics created in Shoreham by Tata Harper Cosmetics. Tata’s products have been featured in Vogue, and ingredients include fermented yam juice and narcissus bulb extract. The rejuvenating serum is incredible. Boutiliers Art Supply Store carries icosikaitetragon pendants and ornaments by Joseph Mendel and Michael ThomasAdam. Called “Sacred Geometry” these 24-sided objects are like three-dimensional mandalas. Boutilier’s is an art supply store and a framing shop. The artwork of Lisa Angell and Judy Rice, along with felted hedgehogs and toadstools by Susanne Ryan, are featured. Boutiliers is also the only place you can get Vintage Burlington Calendars from 1910. Almost everything can be purchased through the websites of these creative Vermonters, and some things can only be purchased online. The ease of online purchase and shipping is particularly true if you want to order something like a giant wheel (38 lbs.) of Cabot Cheese or a Vermont Flannel Company “Vong”. The thong and bum warmers are what they sound like: cozy men and women’s underwear featuring the company’s signature plaid flannels. What an unexpected warm winter treat for under $13!
Shop with us online at www.froghollow.org
When picking out gifts for your family and friends another choice is to give the gift of a Vermont experience. Why not consider a gift card or certificate to the Trapp Family Lodge for a day of singing and touring the world of Herr Von Trapp. Yes, you can actually go there and sing songs from the Sound of Music. You can order gift cards on the website. Another great experience to consider is cooking classes at “The Kitchen at the Store” in Waitsfield with a real Vermont chef, John Lumbra. Buy a gift certificate for a companion to share this experience and double your fun. You will also find hardwood bowls made from trees downed in the Mad River Valley during Hurricane Irene (now that really is a unique Vermont item). You can also find pottery from the “Naked Potter” Luke, from the Wilder Inn, who notes that his raku pottery is not made in the buff. Here’s a big item that you might not have known was manufactured in Vermont: the SkiErg, an exercise machine made by Concept2 that imitates Nordic skiing. Concept2 also builds the Olympian rowing machine of choice, the Model D ($900), the world’s latest development of windresistance indoor rowers. The company was founded by Morrisville brothers, Peter and Dick Driessigacker, who have the honor to claim that 69 percent of Olympic medalists in rowing won with Concept2 oars and sculls. So if you have a rower in the family, or you want the ultimate exercise machine, check out Concept2.
Boutilier’s stocks over 15,000 art materials. On-site custom framing.
Your art supply store and so much more. M-Sat 10-6, Sunday 12-5 Serving Vermont since 1925
194 College St. Burlington 802-864-5475 / 800-955-1278
For foodies more interested in eating than in exercising, it’s time to indulge in Jericho’s Snowflake Chocolates. The Pollak family’s chocolate confections are a 50-plus-year-old tradition and are named after the renowned Snowflake Bentley, a Vermont farmer and the first person to successfully photograph ice crystals. Also for foodies and diners, you can have Vermont Farm Table custom design a perfectly proportioned farm table to fit your
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
Where dogs are always welcome! Fun for the whole family year-round. visit us at www.dogmt.com or call 800.449.2580
143 Parks Road, St. Johnsbury, Vt www.dogmt.com
• Gwen Tanner 802-985-9902
65 Falls Road, Shelburne www.stapleandfancy.net
living space with a variety of tabletop woods and legs to suit your taste—many tables are made of reclaimed wood and historic New England materials. These tables are one-of-a-kind and have generations of unique, authentic, Vermont character built right in.
Another Vermont icon is Bennington Potters in Burlington. Its signature blue, green, yellow, red, and white speckled stoneware is now a classic and timeless design. Take a particular look at the heartshaped baking dishes if you are looking for something special for a sweetheart.
Staple and Fancy, a Shelburne village store (also found online), is also a haven for foodies. This season you will find a jar of Vermont pickles with inventive pickleplucking bent-tine forks, handmade cutting boards by artist Jamie Deal, wall hooks made from horseshoes, and the groovy retro aprons made by Lila Webb. Nearby is the Shelburne Country Store, you can find a classic maple “weather stick.” An extraordinary feat of Mother Nature, this stick bends up or down to indicate changes in the weather. Very Vermont!
One funny idea for the overzealous ice cream lover is Ben and Jerry’s EuphoriLock top: you need to know the combination to unlock the pint containers you hide in the back of the freezer ($6.64)!
And, last, but definitely not least, don’t forget to pick up some of the many artisanal liquors, wines, beers, and ciders that are now distilled, brewed, and made in Vermont. Half the fun is indulging in new tastes. Try the Barr’s Gin, Woodchuck Cider, Shelburne Vineyards’ Ice Wine (purchase quickly because they often sell
out!). Vermont’s many vineyards, micropubs and breweries hold frequent wine tastings and events. You can get a real spirited taste of Vermont at Shelburne Vineyards, Lincoln Peak, and Magic Hat. Whether you choose to put your elbows up on a Vermont Farm Table, drink Green Mountain coffee from a Bennington Potters’ mug, or just lock up your Ben and Jerry’s, this holiday season don’t send your hard-earned money oceans away; shop local and savor the real state of Vermont.
Wait! A Mad River Dash to Waitsfield words // Shirley Reid
Any good traveler knows that you have the most fun when you visit people who live in your destination. So what do local Vermonters do for the weekend? Stay in Vermont of course.
Our weekend in Waitsfield started out just the way it usually does— Green Mountain Coffee in a recycled to-go cup—we headed out to ski Mad River Glen—yay! An excellent morning of skiing in deep powder, and now its time to check into the Garrison Lodge. We chose the Garrison for its proximity to Mad River as well as the après ski entertainment value of its indoor heated pool and the low cost. The rooms are like condos, so you can have many friends hanging out and you can cook meals there. Hunger and pink cheeks send us in search of the ultimate burger. Turns out that the kids’ request (demand?) is to do the zipline at Sugarbush, five minutes away, $15 for two rides. We pop in to Castlerock Pub for a local glass of Vermont Hard Cider while the kids fly upside down: it’s all good. I have one particular desire: a new made in Vermont Turtle Fur ski hat, but time for shopping later. Burger? Nah, the new plan is to go gourmet. We leave the kids to do a half-day at Sugarbush and head down the mountain to the pretty village of Waitsfield. Will it be vegetarian, then? We could go to MINT Restaurant and Tea Lounge. Wait a minute, how about Italiano? Si? We’ll go to Peasant. The Valley has rebounded with extraordinary vigor since the disaster of Irene. Great dining everywhere! After a luxurious lunch, we stroll along the snowy sidewalks of Waitsfield and across the covered bridge to look at the ravaged riverbed and to aid digestion of the feast. Shopping is always a pleasure, but I want culture on my vacation, so off to see the new Madsonian Museum of Industrial Design (“Mad” as in Mad River and “sonian” like Smithsonian). The collections of architect Peter Sellers include pieces by Frank Gehry and Frank Lloyd Wright and are displayed along with such venerable industrial items as high heels and baseball mitts. Be prepared for surprises! What an excellent addition to this little town. A short hike, I should say tromp, through the snow to see Warren Falls on the Trout River is next on the agenda. Luckily we brought our snowshoes, and as the snow fell in the darkening gloom, I felt like I’d gone straight to heaven. Tomorrow we’ll go cross countrying on the groomed trails of Blueberry Lake or Ole’s. I did want to pick up some goodies for the friends stuck in distant worlds like Washington, D.C. and New York City. My two favorite shops are The Store (and The Kitchen in the Store) and the Warren Store. If you can’t find something to buy in either of those places, then you didn’t spend enough time there. Time to socialize, have a flatbread at Lareau Farm, take in a movie at the Big Picture Theatre, and go dancing. What a great day in the “other” Valley, and we’ll do it again tomorrow.
Waitsfield is less than an hour drive from most places in the Champlain Valley and is not exactly a well kept secret. People in the know come here for downhill, backcountry, cross-country skiing, socializing, great food and ambience from all over the world. There is a lot to do and see for every type of winter lover. See you there! And on the way home don’t forget to stop at the Prohibition Pig in Waterbury for another local Vermont experience.
45 BRIDGE ST, WAITSFIELD madsonian.org | 496.6611
Cross Country Skiing & Snowshoeing
in the Mad River Valley
Cross Country Center Warren Vermont 802.496.3430 www.olesxc.com
Lessons / Rentals / Ski Shop
Café Open Weekends
n o s i r Gar THE
Ski & Stay Packages starting at $74 to $80/day www.garrisoncondos.com / 1-800-766-7829
Established in 1965, The Store has been a cook’s ﬁrst choice for the tools to get the job done with ﬂair and good taste. Now The Kitchen at The Store oﬀers classes for anyone who loves to cook—or would like to learn. From Pastry Basics, We Love Chocolate and Fish 101 to A Better Brunch, or your own custom designed private class, our talented instructors help you learn the skills and techniques that bring new inspiration to any kitchen.
Distinctive Kitchenware & Home Accessories Visit us online for our new menu of classes:
Route 100, Waitsﬁeld, Vt. 05673 [ 802-496-4465
WINTER 2012-13 Destination Vermont
In the depth of winter I finally learned that there was in me an invincible summer. -ALBERT CAMUS
p. Ben Sarle
Puzzles & stuff crossword
THEME: ANIMAL WORLD
Doodles by James Lasell Morse
Those who say, think outside the box, don’t... Jim Morse has lived in Vermont since 1958 and resided in Charlotte since 1971. He has been married for 47 years and has two daughters and five grandchildren. A Vermont Supreme Court justice for 14 years, jim captures life’s Zen, irony and wit in observations and sketches on topics from Art to War. His sayings are philosophical, skeptical, practical and funny.
1. Girder that looks like a letter 6. *Largest North American deer 9. *Methane release by a cow 13. ___-__-la 14. Actress ___ Thompson 15. Ranee’s wrap 16. Luxurious sheet fabric 17. Opposite of guzzle 18. Donor’s loss 19. *Cause of African Sleeping Sickness 21. *Dangerous delicacy 23. Nada 24. Rented on the links 25. Distant 28. Fountain order 30. Like body temperature of 98.6° 35. Month of Purim 37. Barber’s supply 39. A Judd 40. Rounded elevation 41. Member of the lowest Hindu caste 43. “Goodbye” to Sophia Loren 44. Fat cat in the Orient 46. Toot one’s horn 47. Julia Robert’s character 48. Bad blood 50. Bassoon cousin
52. Ensign, for short 53. Student aid 55. Grandmother, for short 57. *Dian Fossey’s domain 60. “Bob Dylan’s words, e.g. 63. Indian coin 64. Austin Powers, e.g. 66. Inhabitants of Thailand 68. Poker stakes 69. Across, in verse 70. *It opens wide 71. ____ lighting 72. Country song “Harper Valley ___” 73. Walk through mud
1. “___ alive!” 2. Babysitter’s nightmare 3. Chow or grub 4. Sci-fi classic 5. *Praying insect 6. “... or ____!” 7. “Fantasy Island” prop 8. 10th letter of Greek alphabet 9. Throw up 10. Encourage 11. Infantry’s last rows, e.g. 12. Mont Blanc, e.g. 15. “____ __ crime”
20. One-armed bandits 22. Big coffee server 24. Used for boiling 25. *Animal life of particular period 26. Don Draper of “Mad Men”, e.g. 27. Teacher of Torah 29. Slap on 31. Preakness, e.g. 32. Wavelike design 33. At full speed 34. *Tsavo man-eaters 36. One of “Clue” clues 38. Mr. Eugene Krabs, e.g. 42. “The _____ of defeat” 45. Protrudes outwards 49. Sun in Mexico 51. 3rd rock from the sun, pl. 54. *He used animals to demonstrate morals 56. Root of nihilism 57. Ellen Page’s 2007 role 58. Plotting 59. Financial aid criterion 60. Vega’s constellation 61. Al Capone, e.g. 62. Plural of #17 Across 63. Ewe’s mate 65. *Not a wild one 67. Fifth note
Puzzle solutions on page 13
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