THE FEED E AT
WITH ALICE IN FRAMES WWW.THEWEEKLYREVIEW.COM.AU/EAT EA EAT
LET’S DO BRUNCH White Mojo ● 182-184 Whitehorse Road, Balwyn ● facebook.com/WhiteMOJOBalwyn THE VIBE \ This sister to the CBD cafe of the same name is light, bright and spacious. THE DECOR \ Honey-coloured timber and marbled, hexagonal tiles. White metal sculptures adorn the high ceiling, adding an industrial touch.
THIS WEEK I’M … EATING \ I can’t go past Meredith sheep’s yoghurt drizzled with rooftop honey to satisfy an evening sweetie craving. It’s about as close as I’ve managed to get to a 20-second salted caramel. ●
THE FOOD \ Brunch dishes with a Japanese twist – the famed croissant burger with soft-shell crab is a must-try. For a true experience, don’t go past the cauliflower panna cotta, which arrives under a smoked-filled cloche and features scallops, chorizo dust and a 63-degree egg.
PEAR CUSTARD
IDES \ COLLINGWOOD
I
THE VERDICT Foodie heaven. ●
Chef’s Secrets D A N I
(JEMIMAH CLEGG)
JEMIMAH CLEGG
magine a “bowl of onions”, crescent-shaped slices of the Spanish variety, roast turnip broth, mustard seeds … I know, I couldn’t have either. Equally, a dessert of “pear custard”, with golden syrup jelly and shards of black Manjimup truffle cut so thick that they taste somehow like chocolate, cleverly enhanced by a smattering of cacao nibs. We’ve seen Ides grow from two years of pop-ups serving interesting food to interested industry types, to the softly lit and equally softly furnished space that it is now; music to the ears of anyone for whom noise is a factor. Speaking of music, settling in for a degustation is a bit like listening to an album, cover to cover, headphones on, going exactly where the artist wants to take you. Our artist in question is Peter Gunn, previously of Attica, and it’s clear he compiles his weekly fixed-price six-course menu with this “album” in mind. It’s not a one-man show, mind you; shattering the fourth wall of chef-diner, plates are presented and cleared by those who prepare them. Flavours are defined – a compilation of tastes, dish by dish: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, savoury. This is cooking that resonates. ● aliceinframes@theweeklyreview.com.au
● 92 Smith Street ● 9939 9542 ● idesmelbourne.com.au
VA L E N T L O V E S …
WE LOVE …
LEATHER TABLES
READING \ I’ve been chipping away at Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking: A Memoir of Food and Longing by Anya Von Longing Bremzen for months because it turns me into a blubbering mess within half a chapter. If you have any connection to the Soviet Bloc, it’s a must-read. ●
CLEVER COMBOS
I’m always on a need to know basis. Get in touch: @aliceinframes #TWREat
STILL HUNGRY? CHECK OUT DANI’S MINESTRONE WITH BUTTERED LEEKS RECIPE
BRUNCH \ I was charmed by THE GLASS DEN, a sprawling cafe in the old gatehouse at Pentridge. MARKET LANE (Prahran Market) is great for coffee and croissant. HANNAH in Balaclava has great coffee, good tunes and weekend specials. Ripponlea’s MISS RUBEN has ace baked eggs.
minestrone with buttered leeks, which I make in my Thermomix in 20 minutes. Otherwise, even busy restaurants are quiet early in the evening – a good option for eating with the kids. I love SUPERMAXI for pizza, HOUSE OF HOI AN for Vietnamese and MANKOUSHE for Middle Eastern.
A DATE \ TRATTORIA EMILIA is perfect for cosy winter dates. PHILIPPE ticks all the date-night boxes; French food in a CBD basement is the definition of romance. Some dates work better in boisterous venues such as hip Japanese MR MIYAGI or SUPERNORMAL, where seats at the bar with a view of the kitchen offer heaps of talking points.
TO SEE & BE SEEN \ N \ I’m not big on being seen but I love a champagne or three at BAR DI STASIO and admiring the absolute artistry of the waiters.
QUIET DINNER \ HOME is always good! My favourite winter meal is a
DRINKING \ The Pooey Nappy (aka a dirty babycino), which I’m determined to make a thing. Think “short mac” but topped up with micro-foam. Try it out on your favourite bearded barista and let me know what you think. ● LISTENING TO \ The Splendid Table with Lynne Rossetto Kasper (American Public Media), the podcast equivalent of a foodie feast. It’s been going for ages, so there’s plenty of back catalogue to get through and every episode guarantees at least one “Eureka!” moment. ●
A FANCY DINNER \ VUE DE MONDE is great: there’s an authentic connection between their gardens at BURNHAM BEECHES and the food served 55 floors up in the Rialto. PRESS CLUB is exuberant, and also ESP where Scott Pickett uses classic technique to create expressive modern dishes. ●
ABOUT DANI
(JOSH ROBENSTONE)
THE DRINK RINK \ The house-blend coffee is smooth and balanced. Matcha lattes are a favourite, along with teas and cold-pressed juices.
CAULIFLOWER PANNA COTTA
(DANIEL POCKETT)
THE CROWD \ The locals love having a piece of the city around the corner, and come by for brunch or to grab coffee and a doughnut to take away.
Food writer, author of In The Mix 1 & 2 2, Thermomix wizard. Founder of danivalentcooking. com
JULY 27, 2016 \ THE WEEKLY REVIEW 11