Food \ LEANNE TOLRA REVIEWS CAPTAIN BAXTER
TooThFish sashimi
sTuFFEd squid
diY PullEd lamB shouldER
T
hank goodness the staff at Captain Baxter don’t is Asian-influenced, with a few Middle Eastern and dress in pirate costumes. But the theme, from the Spanish references, yet suitably Melburnian. huge mural of the Neptune-like sea hero battling Sharing dishes dominate the offering – that seems to a giant squid to the cocktail list presented as a ship’s log, be what we like to eat when there is any kind of visual comes close to being overworked. distraction – and will appeal to the diverse local and Let’s put the facts in the way of the story first: Captain tourist crowds that cross Jacka Boulevard. Benjamin Baxter of the 50th Regiment arrived in So will the cocktails with names such as Rum Runner St Kilda in 1837. He was the area’s first landowner and and Three Drunk Sailors. grazier and became Melbourne’s first postmaster. He There are oysters four ways, snacks, DIY sharing may or may not have been a pirate-hunter, swordsman plates, raw seafood choices, a couple of options from or agent of intelligence. the barbecue, larger dishes that could be eaten solo, We were able to forgive the storyboard – and the three salads, a trio of desserts and a cheese selection. service that constantly went missing (bells on Together, on a single-page menu, it’s not as pirate costumes might need to be considered) – daunting as it sounds. sharing for the dedication apparent in the well-priced Dawson, his wife Amanda, her brother dishes and refined food. Tom Doolan and his wife Amara are dominate The other pluses here are the stylish decor, co-owners of St Kilda Venues, whose stable the waterfront location and the impressive open includes the eight-year-old Republica and offering kitchen. The Captain sits high over Port Phillip function centre Encore in the same complex. Bay in the St Kilda Sea Baths complex, in the The Doolan family has a background in vast and dramatic space that once belonged hospitality and Dawson has worked in winery to Soulmama. restaurants and spent three years at Stokehouse. The views are short-lived on dark wintry nights, but Seafood makes up about 50 per cent of his menu, but have probably been forgotten by locals in the 18 months the attraction lies in clever ideas such as the Glacier 51 since the vegetarian supernova closed. toothfish (sustainable Patagonian toothfish, caught wild The Captain, which opened in November last year in the Subantarctic and sold frozen) sashimi. and operates daily during summer, is gearing up for It’s presented with a zingy ponzu dressing, rich with the warmer weather and will extend its trading hours bonito flakes and seaweed, topped with a just-spicy next month. avocado purée and dressed with tiny soy pearls, If the first week of the menu created for representing caviar, bursting to add a salty, savoury the season is any indication, the food will be worth element to the fleshy, intense fish. some attention. We’d go back for that in summer. Executive chef and co-owner Matt Dawson’s menu Pork-and-shiitake-stuffed squid, finished over
the grill and served sliced into portions, is another seafood-themed winner. The smallish squid hoods are tender as dumpling skins and the flavoursome filling is enhanced by a Schezuan pepper sauce that’s redolent with garlic, shallots and ginger, and topped with a flash-fried crumble of the same ingredients. A pretty pottery platter of oily, crunchy pulled lamb shoulder meat cooked shawarma style and served with four small flatbreads, tahini yoghurt, pickled radishes and a bundle of baby cos lettuce hearts was our glimpse of the DIY section. We were pleased we chose the coleslaw with red onion, green apple and the texture and pleasing flavour contrast of poppy seeds to accompany the lamb. Without it, the dish was small. Summertime sharing of desserts such as Dawson’s tricky little chilli marshmallows (beware they look white and innocent but contain a vicious kick), influenced by a visit to Spain’s Mugaritz restaurant and given extra intensity with popping candy-filled squares of rocky road, would be loads of fun. It was probably the least refined dish we tried, and the rocky road was a little sweet for me, but I think it’s a crowd-pleaser. The light, fresh brioche dough used for his delicate doughnuts, served with a chocolate dipping sauce (again a little sweet for my taste) and verdant swirl of pandan cream, would be a winner in any weather. \ ltolra@theweeklyreview.com.au To REad moRE REviEws
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Eat this CaPTaiN BaXTER, 10-18 JaCka BoulEvaRd, sT kilda
ThE iNsidE
Cuisine \ Modern australian
Dramatic light fittings, bronze finishes and timber-panelled seating booths give Captain Baxter a shipshape art deco opulence. a long curved bar separates the open space, while rich tones of scarlet, umber and indigo add warmth. Glossy timber tables, an ocean-blue tiled bar and white-painted ceilings continue the marine theme. Floor-to-ceiling windows capture the classic beachfront scenery and views of the resort-style outdoor bar, while the open galley-style kitchen provides entertainment of its own. \
Chef \ Matt Dawson
Open \ Thursday 5pm-late; Friday to Sunday noon-late; daily from october 1 Phone \ 8534 8999 The verdict \ Worth a look
» captainbaxter.com.au
(Darrian Traynor)
Prices \ Small dishes $4-$17; larger dishes $14-$20; desserts $8-$12
doughNuTs
september 4, 2013 \ The weekly review 9