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THE FEED E AT

WITH ALICE IN FRAMES WWW. HEWEEKLY WWW.T L REVIEW.COM.AU/EAT LY EA EAT

LET ’S DO LUNCH New Shanghai ● Emporium Melbourne, Level 3, 287 Lonsdale Street ● 9994 9386 THE VIBE \ A bustling venue serving modern and classical Shanghainese cuisine. There are often queues, but they vanish almost as fast as your food.

THIS WEEK I’M …

THE DECOR \ An oasis of tradition in the middle of Emporium’s gleaming steel and chrome. THE CROWD \ Absolutely everybody: office workers, mall employees, nervous first dates, family gatherings, even friends in school uniform. THE FOOD OOD \ Marvellous. Try the pork belly steamed buns, all robust flavours and meat that melts in your mouth. Or the Chinese-style fried chicken that’s a delight to shred and share. But you can’t go past the house speciality, the xiaolongbao – delicate parcels of broth and meat that inspire much smacking of lips.

PRAWNS, OX TONGUE, KIMCHI, BEEF TENDER STRIPS & SCALLOPS

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Definitely worth a trip for the sheer variety as well as those xiaolongbao, which are among Melbourne’s best. ● HARI RAJ

Chef’s Secrets J E S S E

COOKING \ Cauliflower. Coat with olive oil and roast whole at 180 degrees for about 45 minutes, then drizzle with tahini, currants and goat’s cheese for a midweek meal delight. ●

H WA R O \ C I T Y

THE VERDICT

XIAOLONGBAO

(CARMEN ZAMMITT)

EATING \ Macadamia nuts. Fresh macadamias are sublime – sweet, rich and herbaceous. Getting into them is about as hard as cracking a safe, but so worth putting out your shoulder for. ●

f you’re a fan of juicy, char-grilled meat and seafood, kicking your shoes off before dinner and bowls of fermented spicy cabbage that never runs out, it’s time to say “hello” to Hwaro. Post-greetings, friendly ninjas deliver your personalised coal pit and energetic waitstaff patiently guide you through the menu; there’s nothing left to do but watch, drool and try not to fill up on the aforementioned bowls of kimchi. With grilling, flipping, cutting and serving done for you at the table, Korean barbecue is as close as you’re going to get to smell-o-vision; eliciting the same trance-like state as watching your favourite cooking show … except that you get to eat it at the end. Go for the kimchi pancake to start. It’s feather-light, with a delightful crunch, plus it’ll keep your fingers busy lest you pull the trigger on the grill too soon. Prawns and scallops are luscious, as is the special galbi: premium beef short rib, traditionally marinated and snipped into mouthfuls off the bone. If any wagyu tender strip is left, grab it. If not, the bulgogi here is caramel-y and satisfying, washed down with hot cups of honey and lemon tea. Hwaro is family-friendly and perfect for big groups. Until next time! ● aliceinframes@theweeklyreview.com.au

● 562 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne ● 9642 5696 ● hwaro.com.au

WE LOVE …

READING \ Patisserie by Melanie Dupuis, (Hardie Grant). I’m a steak-er not a baker, but the layout of this book (infographics + step-by-step pics) is irresistible – I couldn’t put it down! ●

THE AUTOGRAPH WALL

DOING \ Getting #grexy this month by cutting out surplus packaging, plastic straws, disposable coffee cups and meat Monday-Friday. Find out more at giveafork.com.au ●

I’m always on a need to know basis. Get in touch: @aliceinframes #TWREat

THE SLIPPER SHELF

M C T AV I S H L O V E S …

ABOUT JESSE

FOR A DATE \ CUTLER & CO It’s just an Uber ride away, yet the experience is as good as anywhere in the world. ● 57 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy ● 9419 4888

QUIET DINNER \ O.MY They have all the right motives and principles, and execute them beautifully. ● 23 Woods Street, Beaconsfield ● 9769 9000

BRUNCH \ STAGGER LEE’S Brunch doesn’t have to be eggs and avo. Great dishes with a seasonal focus and contemporary cooking methods here. ● 276 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy ● 9419 5564

REALLY FANCY \ VUE DE MONDE How can you go past the beautiful perched bird of Melbourne dining? It really is such an icon. ● 525 Collins Street, Melbourne ● 9691 3888

Son of surfing royalty, chef and co-owner of The Kettle Black ● 50 Albert Road,

South Melbourne

TO BE SEEN \ TIPO 00 But appearances aren’t the only reason you would want to be at Tipo – seamless service and attention to detail, and the incredibly approachable and succinct menu. ● 361 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne ● 9942 3946

BIG GROUP \ MOVIDA Frank Camorra’s original is still the benchmark for casual dining because it is underpinned by all the principles of fine dining. Head chef Scott Stevenson is all about incredible produce. ● 1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne ● 9663 3038

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● 9088 0721

APRIL 7, 2016 \ THE WEEKLY REVIEW 11

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April 7, 2016

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