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More than 300 of the world’s leading writers and thinkers will be at the Melbourne Writers Festival from August 22 to September 1, including London’s mayor Boris Johnson, Tavi Gevinson and London Review of Books team Jay Griffiths, Teju Cole, Junot Diaz, Anne Summers and Seaman Dan. Enjoy a program of storytelling, conversation, debate, music and art. TWR has one double pass to a day of events on August 24 to give away, valued at $129. www.mwf.com.au
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Prepare for the 2013 NRL finals with two great titles from The Slattery Media Group. The Punters Guide to the 2013 NRL Season is jam-packed with tips for betting success, including a player/coaching assessment and draw analysis. For more than 15 years Adrian Morley has been an inspirational rugby league player for England and the Sydney Roosters; Moz: My Story captures his high-profile life. Eight TWR readers can win both copies. www.slatterymedia.com
Food writer Rita Erlich charts Melbourne’s restaurant scene in the ’80s in a collection of menus, interviews, essays and recipes. Melbourne by Menu describes an era in which much of Melbourne’s reputation as a world food capital was forged. Featured restaurants and chefs include Richard Frank, Iain Hewitson, Jacques Reymond, Florentino, Hermann Schneider and Gilbert Lau. Three lucky TWR readers can win a copy. www.slatterymedia.com
The eighth annual Home Buyer & Property Investor Show (August 23-25 at Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre) is a chance to get expert advice on topics ranging from buying your first home to building a profitable property investment portfolio. The three-day event features more than 70 free seminars from Australia’s top property experts, including Mark Bouris, Effie Zahos and Bryce Holdaway, plus key exhibitors. melbourne.homebuyershow.com.au
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AUGUST 15, 2013 \ THE WEEKLY REVIEW 3
From high-school student to pop-culture queen – FRANCESCA CARTER examines the Tavi effect
avi Gevinson was just 11 when she embarked on the path to becoming a pop-culture phenomenon. Blogging from her laptop in Oak Park, Illinois, Gevinson was not a rock star’s daughter or a child actor, just a self-described pop culture nerd, who had “lately” become “really interested in fashion”. Setting up a camera in her backyard in 2008, Gevinson started taking photos of herself modelling all sorts of eclectic outfits. Posting them on her blog, Style Rookie, with musings on fashion and her latest obsessions – which included anything from a review of Alexander McQueen’s couture collection to her daily struggles with athletics – the tween quickly gained a loyal following, drawing nearly 30,000 readers a day. By the end of that year the designers behind über-cool label Rodarte, sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, sent Gevinson a pair of hand-knitted tights, later inviting her to their New York runway show. John Galliano flew Gevinson to Paris to see his spring Dior 2010 couture show, and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons, invited her to Tokyo to attend one his parties. By the time she was 14, Gevinson was writing articles for Harper’s Bazaar, had appeared on the cover of magazines Love, Pop and L’Officiel, and had been profiled by The New Yorker and The New York Times Magazine. She had styled a shoot for BlackBook magazine, acted as a muse and model for Rodarte’s clothing line at Target shops, and partnered with London-based fashion label Borders & Frontiers to design her own T-shirt. “I started Style Rookie at the end of March and by that summer I began to be featured in the press,” says Gevinson, who is on the phone from Rhode Island where she is currently enjoying her summer break before starting her final year of high-school. “At first, most of the press was all about my age and how young I was, but then it slowly turned into positive press about, ‘Hey she’s actually a good writer’. “I think  was a unique time to start a blog, because there was something more pure about it. Bloggers weren’t going to fashion week yet, or being in the front rows, or getting a lot of press, so it felt like this tight-knit community of genuinely passionate people.” Once snubbed by the elitist fashion world for their critical reviews and tiny audiences, fashion bloggers are now important players in a multibillion dollar industry. The most successful make a living from their online popularity through adverts and links to online stores next to their writing. Some blogs have given their owners a springboard to consulting work, writing assignments, speaking engagements, lecturing and related website projects. Gevinson, who has appeared on the Forbes “30 Under 30” list of influential young people in 2011 and 2012, has taken her blog one step further. In September 2011, she launched Rookie – a free online teen magazine, written for, by, and about teenage girls and young women. Rookie has become a youth culture phenomenon, giving young girls a platform to discuss a range of issues – from drugs to heartache, parties to sexual health. 4 THE WEEKLY REVIEW \ AUGUST 15, 2013
Right into art: Melbourne’s Minna Gilligan (main), one of Gevinson’s first recruits. Pop-culture nerd: Tavi Gevinson (below) started her writing career early. (supplied)
Minna GilliGan phoToGraphed by jessica orlanda. Styling \ caiTlin liversidGe. clothing \ kinki Gerlinki.
MAx M cDOUgALL
jEss & sTEF DADON
“It’s hard to explain to people how big rookie is.”
DEPARTMENT OF YOUTH As fashion bloggers set the style agenda around the world, young Melburnians are making waves online.
– minna gilligan
illigan, who has kept a blog since she was a teenager, has created illustrations to accompany Rookie interviews with Sofia Coppola, Emma Watson, Molly Ringwald and Steven Morrissey. Her work has also provided a springboard for a successful career as an illustrator, working on advertising campaigns for American clothing companies Urban Outfitters and Nasty Girl. “In the beginning there were just three illustrators, so we pretty much defined the aesthetic of Rookie,” Gilligan says. “It took my parents ages to understand how massive this all was … The internet is always changing so it’s hard to explain to people how big Rookie is.” Now working in a shared studio in Collingwood, Gilligan believes social media and the web have changed her art. A trawl through her blog reveals an interest in The Golden Girls and vintage clothing, a love of the psychedelic aesthetic of the ’60s and ’70s, and a fascination with Woody Allen. She also loves music, especially “daggy” radio stations such as Magic 1278, and is a back-up singer in a local band called Pamela. “Blogs are such great things for young people,” she says. “It was so vital for me in discerning my tastes and what I was interested in growing up. It’s really awesome that blogs and Tumblr and other social media sites are products for youth. It means we’re not being told by somebody what we should like, we decide it ourselves.” Later this month, Gilligan will join Gevinson when the American teenager hosts a special Rookie Day as part of the Melbourne Writers Festival. The event, open exclusively to teenage girls, will also feature festival director Katie Williams, writer Jessica Alice, and members of the dance community No Lights No Lycra, to name just a few. Gevinson will also deliver a keynote speech at The Athenaeum, in the already sold-out event Tavi’s World. Gilligan, who communicates with Gevinson via email, says she’s thrilled by the prospect of finally meeting her boss. “We’re going to have a lunch at Hanging Rock, and dress up in white dresses like they did in the film … I’m excited to show Tavi my home town.” \ firstname.lastname@example.org » Melbourne Writers Festival, August 22 to September 1. www.mwf.com.au
» www.maxxieblog.com In a sea of fashion blogs, Maxxie – with its landscape photographs and preppy fashion choices – stands out. Growing up in Torquay, Max McDougall started blogging at 16, as a way of connecting with the fashion world. “Most of my outfit inspirations come from unknown people on the street, or trends from my favourite designers on the runway,” he says. “I like to take small elements of other people’s style, and wear it in my own way.” McDougall, 18, who is completing a diploma in fashion business at the Melbourne Fashion Institute, has worked with brands such as ASOS, Julius Marlow, Gillette and Casio. \
K is for Kani
» www.kisforkani.com During last year’s Melbourne spring racing carnival, many style gurus traded in their hats and fascinators for beautiful floral crowns, many of them designed by fashion enthusiast and law commerce student Connie Cao. Since 2010, Cao has been posting her wardrobe choices on her blog, K is for Kani. “I love fashion design and really wanted to pursue a creative career,” she says. Cao’s blog is like looking through a moving kaleidoscope of colour and pattern. Her meticulous styling has led to work with ASOS and Topshop.\
How Two Live
“I have this theory that teenagers are just exaggerations of human beings,” Gevinson says. “It’s like we feel everything for the first time, and everything is so amped up. I feel like what we talk about on Rookie is pretty universal and that’s why adults can relate to it, because I’m often told those feelings don’t go away.” Gevinson was inspired by Sassy, an American alternative teen magazine – based loosely on Australia’s own Dolly – which folded in 1996, the year Gevinson was born. “When I first found issues of Sassy, I thought, why isn’t there something like this now,” Gevinson says. “It was so honest and talked about things that were relevant to teenagers and it was interesting. It wasn’t about things like diets and workouts. I was shocked at how much it resonated with me, even though it’s now like 20 years old.” Sassy’s founding editor, Jane Pratt, initially nurtured the online venture, and within six days of its launch, Rookie had clocked up 1 million page views. Each month, Rookie focuses on a specific theme, which Gevinson develops with her editorial director Anaheed Alani – a former New York Times Magazine fact-checker. The e-zine is updated five days a week, three times a day – after school, around dinner time, and before bed – to fit in with Gevinson’s school day. There are interviews with celebrities, DIY articles, fashion spreads and advice columns such as the regular “Ask a Grown Man”, in which the likes of Mad Men’s Jon Hamm and Thom Yorke from Radiohead answer reader’s questions. They are currently planning the second Rookie Yearbook, due out in September. “I have all these different worlds and aesthetics in my head and I just try to pull one out and see if it fits with the magazine,” says Gevinson. Rookie has about 80 contributors, from all parts of the world, and ranging in age from 15 to 50. Among them is Melbourne-based artist Minna Gilligan, 22, who was one of Gevinson’s first recruits. While studying at Victorian College of the Arts, Gilligan contributed a weekly collage during Rookie’s first year. “I was really into art at high school but I wasn’t a great drawer,” says Gilligan. “But I’ve always been really into making zines and blogging and doing collages. So when Rookie asked for applications, I put one in and they got something like 3000. I then got an email from Tavi saying they would love to have me, which was literally the most exciting thing ever.”
Celebrating its first birthday this month, How Two Live is a fashion blog created by sisters Jess, 21, and Stef Dadon, 25. They established the blog as a way of sharing their wardrobes with each other when Stef went to live in Paris for six months. “We’ve always lived together, and that was the first time we had spent a big block of time apart,” Stef says. In the past year, they have shot campaigns for labels including Paint it Red, Princess Polly, Shakuhachi and Mimco, and are currently designing a shoe range for Windsor Smith. \
AUGUST 15, 2013 \ THE WEEKLY REVIEW 5
My view \ Katrina Hall wants to turn tHings around
6 THE WEEKLY REVIEW \ AUGUST 15, 2013
(BANANASTOCK \ THINKSTOCK)
t came from a conversation I had with an old friend. coffee at 5pm, and if I want to “reduce”, as Betty Draper We were discussing the way things were in our town, so delicately says, I immediately go for the biscuits. when we were young. The power the boys had over Same for dry months – they make me soooooo the girls, and the fact that, despite the general apathy, thirsty. Should be the other way around, but it ain’t. I disdain and objectification the boys showed the girls, know my limitations. we still idolised them. That’s how it went, for some of us It’s not all about me, of course. I’m sure Julia’s feeling anyway, back then. things should really be the other way around right now. He said it should have been the other way around. The Here’s hoping Malcolm Turnbull is feeling it, too. girls were the ones who had more going for them, who Edward Snowden and Julian Assange might be. And studied, kept themselves active, had an eye to the Nigella Lawson. But what about James Hird and future. The boys were happy riding the waves former Bombers chairman David Evans? Maybe and coattails of everyone around them. Really, it should have been the other way around for if i want he said, it should have been the boys chasing those two? Just saying. to sleep in, the girls. In fact, everything about football needs to i go to bed Those words have stayed with me, because be the other way around, or at least up the early right now, so many things should be the other back of the paper, where it belongs. way around. It’s not just that I’ve just finished The red-carpet coverage we endure at the rushing around the house cleaning up because the end of season is bad enough, but lately there have cleaner’s coming, and of course it should be the other been too many footballers photographed coming out of way around, but everyone does it, right? courthouses in suits, and far too many photos of Hird My crazy six-year-old just insisted I put all her toys on the front of the papers. Football has become blown away because she just can’t possibly have a playdate until out of proportion, and full of espionage and secrets. her room is tidy. I said, baby, it should be the other way Let’s put it back to where it should be, at the end of around. You tidy your room, then I will let you have a the paper and focused on important business such playdate. I don’t tidy your room so you can invite a little as strained hammies and injured groins. buddy over to mess it up again. She said, “Yeah, right What about asylum seekers? We should be mum, so can you just help me?” seeking them out, right? We should be making In fact, there are a lot of things in my everyday life them at home here, especially after they’ve risked that should be the other way around. If I want to sleep their lives with such a long journey. Surely it in, I go to bed early because, no matter what time they should be the other way around for them, too? \ email@example.com go to bed, my kids always wake up at 7am on weekends. During the school week it’s a different story and I so we welcoMe your feedback @ wish it was the other way around. www.theweeklyreview.com.au/my-view I walk the kids’ dog and usually drink half a litre of
BArIStA \ LEANNE TOLRA REVIEWS ALICE Tiffany Reed-Marshall BARISTA landed a life-changing barista traineeship while on a gap year in
ALICE, 25 NApIEr StrEEt, ESSENdoN
wasn’t any fanfare. For first-time café London. “It was absolute luck. I saw an ad owner Richard Pierse it has simply offered on Gumtree. They were paying minimum a different life view. “Alice is my fun job,” wage, but were looking for baristas with no he says. experience and were willing to train them.” Pierse opened the café, a couple of doors She had worked in cafés and restaurants down from his “real” job – operating before, but never behind a coffee machine. training and recruitment agency Future The job, at specialty coffee roaster Force – because his team wasn’t Tapped & Packed on Tottenham satisfied with the local coffee. Court Road, introduced her to “Everyone here has a great Has Been Coffee and her mentor, “EVERYONE time,” he says. “We might end barista and British Brewer’s Cup here HAS A up with something more than champion Sang-ho Park. GREAT TIME” we intended, but the motivation In the six months she was for me was just to do something I there, Reed-Marshall learnt to use wanted to do.” the café’s house espresso blend, its The tiny shop had been a goldsmith’s single-origin espresso blend and three and at one time a florist, but Pierse and his filter brews. “That job sparked a passion in team started with a blank space and Simon me that I didn’t know I had.” Cunningham, of Volant Designs, created Reed-Marshall returned to Melbourne the furnishings. to study professional communications Most of the cakes and pastries and pies and international studies at RMIT and – perhaps chunky beef with mushy peas – works at Alice part time, making espressos are baked in-house and there’s an all-day from Padre Coffee’s Colombian and breakfast menu that includes “cereal in Indian blend, Daddy’s Girl, and changing a pot”, either house-made bircher muesli single-origin beans as filter brews. or creamed arborio rice with rhubarb She’d like to own her own café one day, compote. More Goldilocks than Alice, the but says: “My strongest drive is to work in sweetly scented rice makes a warm start to humanitarian aid.” \ firstname.lastname@example.org a cold morning. to rEAd MorE rEvIEwS www.theweeklyreview.com.au/coffee
Phone \ 0499 291 236 Barista \ Tiffany Reed-Marshall Coffee \ Padre Barista’s choice \ Flat white Open \ Monday to Friday 7am-3pm; weekends 8am-3pm
» www.facebook.com/alice. goodness.essendon
Alice has just celebrated her CAFÉ first birthday (apparently TWR was there on the day), but there
Alice isn’t big, but she’s well appointed, clearly loved and rather friendly. Clever timberwork has been used on stools and a communal table to give Alice an artisan touch, while high-gloss concrete floors show she’s practical, too. Good-looking cakes, pastries and pre-prepared breakfasts and lunches are on show around the counter; intriguing artwork lines the walls. \
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*Savings off RRP. Must end 31/08/13. Terms & conditions apply. See instore for details. AUGUST 15, 2013 \ THE WEEKLY REVIEW 7
\ ben Thomas says ThaT oak is a-ok
GET INVOLVED IN YOUR CITY GETTING BETTER WITH AGE Join panelists like Father Bob in an engaging conversation about the facts and fiction of ageing and what a truly age-friendly Melbourne would look like, at Melbourne Town Hall, 6pm on Wednesday 28 August. melbourne.vic.gov.au/inbetween
NEW PUBLIC ART
THE CONFIDENCE MAN When a bag of cash is brought into Peter’s very ordinary home, his family gets caught up in in a sinister chain of events. Presented by Arts House, The Confidence Man invites you to step onto the stage floor to experience this Hitchcock-meets-von Trier thriller firsthand or watch the drama unfold from the sidelines.
Check out North Melbourne’s latest public art installation in Little Errol Street. Fabricated from six colours of neon, Andrew Atchison’s artwork forms a continuous loop of text – a meditation on the effects of information saturation in contemporary society. melbourne.vic.gov.au/inbetween
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ST KILDA ROAD BIKE LANE
A new bike lane on St Kilda Road will make the boulevard safer for cyclists and motorists. Works will start soon and include a physically-separated southbound bike lane between Alexandra Gardens and the Floral Clock.
Michael FragOs \ WineMaKer
don’t like wooded wines.” Other than origins can be traced to the regions where complaints about hangovers, I reckon it’s they were first used. the only negative comment I ever hear “The barrique comes from Bordeaux and about wine. holds 225 litres. It’s 95 centimetres tall. Then Most of the time they’re talking about you have the barrique from Burgundy, which whites – especially chardonnay – that have is 228 litres and 88 centimetres tall. been fermented or matured in oak barrels. “The Burgundy barrels are squatter, For the record, I like a little oak in my more chunky (compared to those from chardonnay. Bordeaux), and the reason for that “When When it comes to reds, there are is they have to manoeuvre them you use two ways oak plays a vital role in older barrels through narrow cellars,” says wine production. Fragos. “The next size up is the you also get Hogshead, which originated from “You’ve got two different less oak” things that are taking place – Cognac and holds 300 litres. Next is firstly, flavour and tannin are being the puncheon, which holds between imparted into the wine,” says Chapel Hill 475 and 500 litres in size. It originated for chief winemaker Michael Fragos. making fortified wines. “The second way a barrel influences a wine “As a barrel gets larger and larger, the ratio is the oak has very small pores where oxygen of oak surface area to liquid gets lower. The outside the barrel slowly makes its way larger a barrel gets, you expect lower oak through these pores and oxygenates the wine characters and less oxygenation. in the barrel. It’s a very slow process. “When you use older barrels you also get “The process does drop some of the fresh less oak character. The tannins and colour fruit characters of the wine down a bit but the from the wines start to clog up the pores. You most important part of barrel maturation is get less oxygen and less oak flavour. With the softening of the tannins. an older barrel, you expect less impact from “So when you put a really young wine the oak. With a larger barrel you get less that’s really grippy into a barrel, the tannins influence from the oak.” \ email@example.com are very small, so the smaller the tannin the more aggressive and grippy the wine. It also helps to stabilise the colour.” Follow Ben on Twitter @senorthomas Oak wine barrels differ in size and their
The long and short of tannins
The Melbourne City Council team (from left): Cr Ken Ong, Cr Beverley Pinder-Mortimer, Cr Jackie Watts, Cr Arron Wood, Lord Mayor Robert Doyle, Cr Rohan Leppert, Deputy Lord Mayor Susan Riley, Cr Stephen Mayne, Cr Richard Foster, Cr Cathy Oke, Cr Kevin Louey. For information on programs, services, Council and committee meetings, please call 03 9658 9658, or visit melbourne.vic.gov.au Connect with the City Of Melbourne at melbourne.vic.gov.au/socialmedia
Ever wondered why older bottles of wine occasionally have a layer of sediment just below the neck? They’re actually tannins and Chapel Hill chief winemaker Michael Fragos explains that the process starts as the wine matures in an oak barrel. “With contact with air in the barrel, the tannin molecules start gelling together and polymerising. So where you’ve got these small tannin molecules and air coming in slowly, the tannins start building bigger and bigger tannin strands. “When you have an old wine and the tannins get bigger and bigger with bottle maturation, there’s a certain time when the tannins get to a certain size and precipitate out. That’s what causes the crust and deposit in older wines.” \ Online Only » Ben Thomas’ weekly wine selections
8 THE WEEKLY REVIEW \ AUGUST 15, 2013
fooD \ kendall hill reviews the town mouse
n the doorstep of The Town Mouse, a newish arrival to the burgeoning off-Lygon strip in Carlton, a flagstone beckons passersby. “Come in for good times,” it promises. No false advertising here. Inside, the restaurant is compact and tiled and looks like a bar, but The Town Mouse can be almost anything you want it to be. Bar. Restaurant. Pre-theatre snack. Post-cinema nightcap this is and nibbles. Sunday lunch. Special occasion habitslap-up feast. forming I can imagine doing all of the above here, food and never being disappointed. The space was most recently home to French fine diner Embrasse, where I remember sitting in hushed surrounds and marvelling at the produce and precision involved in Nicolas Poelart’s culinary art. But it was never what you’d call fun. The Town Mouse takes itself much less seriously. The floor crew are here to show you a good time and go out of their way to do so. Sly jokes, disarming honesty, winning wine service and the ability to make all feel welcome are just a few of their talents. Unfortunately they can’t do much about the shrieking noise levels from the diabolical combo of tiled walls and terrazzo floors. Bring an ear trumpet if you have one handy. You may need it on a full-house Friday night. Central to the good times is a wine list compiled by talented sommelier Lachlan Barber. He has cherry(grape-?) picked plenty of fascinating drops from around the globe – often biodynamic or wild ferment or otherwise avant-garde. There’s an Alsatian white with the unpronounceable name of Mittnacht Gyotaku, a blend of riesling, Not so funny: gewürtztraminer, pinot gris and pinot blanc that goes Heirloom kales down like nectar. And I love the sound of Patrick (DArriAn Sullivan’s Breakfast Wine but it seems a little early, TrAynor) even for me. Dave Verheul’s cooking is the other key ingredient. It would make even the most jaded diner sit up and pay attention. Here’s a man whose idea of a bar snack is a mini profiterole stuffed with creamy-sour goat’s cheese, showered in caraway salt and thyme, and plonked on a drizzle of their own rooftop honey. Parts of the concept might be familiar but it feels completely original. Likewise the “heirloom kales”, a dish that sounds hilarious when described in full by staff but one mouthful is enough to wipe the smile off your face. It’s a plate of deep-fried cabbage leaves sitting on three types of kale and some “sprouted” rye and red quinoa. “We activate it ourselves,” the waitress says, coming over all Pete Evans. There’s also an egg in the mix, poached at precisely 62.5 degrees, and the lot is spumed with a foam made from Comté cheese, the king of gruyère. The foam
makes everything taste spectacular; eyes pop open with pleasure. Verheul’s school prawns are up there with the city’s best. Here they’re dusted in semolina and deep fried to the point where their shells become pleasantly chewy crusts. They’re doused in sesame salt and arranged around a central pool of garlic and saffron rouille. We clean the plate with our wet fingers. (On a subsequent visit I’m urging my date to have the kale – “you’ll love that” – and ordering the school prawns without a moment’s hesitation. This is habit-forming food.) Nothing I’ve eaten here is bad but some plates are not as good. Under the menu’s “raw” section, the shaved calamari formed into rosettes and teamed with blobs of oyster cream, dill and fermented apple juice is fragrant but not my thing. The cream seems a bit split, perhaps from the acid of the apple. Triangles of crisp, semolina-caked beef cheek are a tad too crisp, the meat inside too dry, but they’re saved by a white soy cream and a gutsy, gorgeous paste of black garlic.
The 12-hour lamb makes a lavish Sunday lunch. It costs $62 for 900 grams of fat-crusted shoulder that’s been slow cooked in a water bath with thyme, garlic, bay leaves, olive oil and lemon juice (I hope you’re taking notes) and then pan-roasted for another 25 minutes to give it a healthy glow and get the juices flowing. It’s served with a healthy side of charred cos and lemon zest, and an unhealthy side of tahini. A plate of roasted red cabbage stuffed with prunes and apple and drenched in melted parmesan, tips the scales to pure gluttony. If the roast and cabbage doesn’t do you in, the ricotta doughnuts just might. The size of chicken nuggets, they’re coated in sugar and cinnamon, stuffed with gooey ricotta, fried to a deep tan and then arranged on a mandarin cream fragrant with fennel. It’s pretty obvious why The Town Mouse has received only glowing critical reviews since opening in March. Add one more voice to that approving chorus. \ firstname.lastname@example.org To rEaD MorE rEviEws
Eat this ThE Town MousE, 312 DruMMonD sTrEET, CarlTon Cuisine \ Contemporary
Chef \ Dave Verheul
Hip pocket \ About $80 a head
Open \ Friday-Sunday noon-3pm; Wednesday-Sunday 5-11pm Highlights \ Exciting eating, cracking wine list, great staff Lowlights \ The echo chamber Bookings \ Please
wE raTE iT
Phone \ 9347 3312
ouT of 10 AUGUST 15, 2013 \ THE WEEKLY REVIEW 9
Beauty scriBe \ Dhav NaiDu gets a sNiff of history
win! To be in with a chance to win a beauty stash worth $500, go to www.theweeklyreview.com.au/ beauty and post a comment – should closed fashion houses be revived and why?
obert Piguet could easily have been the fashion of history if not for his most enduring creations – The scents were still being sold in industry’s first slashie – banker/shoe designer/ Robert Piguet perfumes. the US but Garces could not find any designer/entrepreneur/social arbitrator/enfant Bandit, Piguet’s first perfume, was launched in 1944 in France. “Then I found out that the terrible/mentor/tutor. His contribution to design and his most famous, Fracas, in 1947. These dark leather juice was being made in America. No and fashion is often overlooked in light of more and heady floral scents were masterminded by young respectable Parisian was going to buy prolific personalities. perfumer Germaine Cellier. She was not only the first something French that is made in America. wortH But you could not get anyone more productive than female perfumer but one of the most renowned and We had to change it fast.” this man with his slight figure, pencil moustache enigmatic perfumers of her time. Graces delved into Piguet’s archive in Switzerland $500 and voracity for raising the fashion bar. With Piguet’s brief and Cellier’s olfactory and took a crash course at perfume manufacturer His rise to the dizzying heights of fashion bravado, they created fragrance mayhem Givaudan’s perfume school. Then he started working was privileged but not easy. Born in 1901 in by going against the conservative with a brilliant young perfumer, Aurelien Guichard, “He loved, Switzerland, he was destined for a career in male-dominated perfume industry. Fracas and set about re-releasing, introducing, imagining and he invented finance at his family’s bank. stands the test of time purely on Cellier’s honouring the legacy of the Piguet house. and he gave” innovative move of amplifying the lush At 19 he turned his back on finance, His mantra and motivation was his admiration and plunging into the world of Parisian fashion. richness of tuberose to the maximum. respect for Piguet. “This man was somebody, he created His first attempt ended in defeat and he returned These creations too would have been lost, if not something remarkable … he rewrote the fundamentals to his family’s fold. for the visionary Joe Garces, the chief executive of on style and scent, and it will be a pretty shame to let it In 1922 he tried again in a more measured way. He Robert Piguet Parfums. all disappear. I’ve got do something about it.” helped tastemaker and astute couturier Paul Poiret and “When I was asked by my mentor [in 1992] to run the Garces did. Robert Piguet Parfums is again one of the was then apprenticed to British couture house Redfern company I had no idea what I was in for,” Garces says. most celebrated and respected niche fragrance houses. for 10 years. A self-described kid from the wrong side of the tracks, Jean Marais wrote of Piguet that, “he loved, he invented In 1933, armed with knowledge and confidence, Garces embraced his new job with gusto. and he gave” – with Garces’ help, Piguet keeps giving. \ email@example.com Piguet again set his mind to conquering Paris haute He discovered the Robert Piguet trademark was couture by opening his first atelier at his own house. owned by the Coty family in the ’70s. They later sold to read more reviews From the outset, Piguet’s atelier established itself as a it and this was the beginning of the demise of Robert www.theweeklyreview.com.au/beauty house of simplicity, rigor and taste. In a few short years Piguet Parfums. the Paris fashion press crowned him “the prince of fashion” and he was widely known as “the most Parisian of fashion designers”. Visa (1945) Bandit (1944) Fracas (1947) BagHari (1950) His standing in the glittering fashion field meant he Bergamot, pear, Dark notes of Orange blossom, Created by Francis was inundated with young apprentices who wanted to rose, peach, leather, moss tuberose, Fabron, this is work with him. Robert Piguet was the training ground vanilla and and smoky woods sandalwood the last fragrance for the likes of Christian Dior, Antonio Castillo, James sandalwood and musk released by the Galanos, Marc Bohan, Pierre Balmain and Hubert house of Piguet; Givenchy, who all became heavy hitters in fashion. it has a mélange At the height of Dior’s fame, he said, “Robert Piguet of rose, jasmine, taught me the virtues of simplicity through which true vanilla, musk and elegance must come”. amber Piguet’s generous spirit, creative acumen and social charisma meant he also ran with creative luminaries of that era, from Jean Cocteau to Jean Marais. He was undoubtedly the couturiers’ couturier but, in 1951, at the height of his fame and fortune, he closed his storied house and, in 1953, died quietly. Stockists » Myer/David Jones \ www.libertineparfumerie.com.au His legacy would still be gathering dust in the annals 10 THE WEEKLY REVIEW \ AUGUST 15, 2013
WhAT’S on \ City FESTIVALS
THE FUTURE OF THE NOVEL Teju Cole is a Nigerian-American and a graduate of art history at Columbia University, who came to the US as a 17-year-old. The narrator of his
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MELBOURNE WRITERS FESTIVAL OPENING KEYNOTE: BORIS JOHNSON Boris Johnson has a familial lineage perhaps more illustrious than the British royal family. His artistic, political, journalistic and royal connections are too many and varied to list. But he didn’t rest upon his laurels, instead embarking on a distinguished career of his own, starting as a journalist at The Times. He was editor of The Spectator between 1999 and 2008, before entering politics as a conservative. The now Lord Mayor of London will open the Melbourne Writers Festival with a keynote address reflecting on his commitment to writing and the value of literature. He’ll also explore his literary influences, the craft of writing and his belief in the power of literature to transform, inspire and delight. ■ Melbourne Town Hall, Swanston Street, Melbourne. August 22, 6.30pm. 9650 6467.
Tickets cost $21.50. ■ Deakin Edge, Federation Square, Melbourne. August 23, 11.45am. 9650 6467.
LUCy KnISLEy celebrated novel Open City is also an immigrant. The novel’s half-Nigerian, half-German protagonist walks around New York, or “open city”, meeting an assortment of characters, many of them migrants themselves, all the while thinking about art, critical theory and music. While the novel is broken into separate chapters, the text is written in a single unbroken paragraph. This brevity of style will be a focus of Cole’s talk at the Melbourne Writers Festival, which will also touch on such topics as the Twittersphere, the future of writing and storytelling, and where to next for the novel.
ILLUSTRATOR IN RESIDENCE: LUCY KNISLEY During the festival, some of the world’s leading illustrators will draw live for three hours in the Atrium, Federation Square. First up is New York comic artist Lucy Knisley, whose work is often a running commentary on her life, much of which is centred on food. If her books are anything to go by, she’s eaten well all her life. Her drawings are fluid, playful and offer an insight into the fabulous and enviable world of a life and memory association through food – or Venetian croissants and McDonald’s fries, to be precise. ■ The Atrium, Federation Square, Melbourne. August 23, noon. 9650 6467. ART & CULTURE PROXIMITY Garry Stuart’s latest work, Proximity for Australian Dance Theatre, premiered at the Adelaide Festival last year to rapturous applause. This time Stuart has collaborated with
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Parisian video engineer Thomas Pachoud. Their resulting production is visually striking, with dancers performing in front of huge screens showing projections of movements in real time, with manipulation by Pachoud. ■ Playhouse, Arts Centre, 100 st Kilda road, Melbourne. August 15-17, 8pm and August 18, 3pm. 1300 182 183.
RONNIE BURKETT THEATRE OF MARIONETTES IN PENNY PLAIN Canadian adult puppeteer ronnie Burkett has garnered a strong following in Australia after touring the country with his quasiautobiographical show Billy Twinkle: Requiem for a Golden Boy three years ago. his latest work to tour here is a dark, apocalyptic story called Penny Plain. in it, old Penny learns of civilisation’s end from the relative comfort of her overstuffed chair. While contemplating the end of the world, she is interrupted by a cross-dressing banker, a serial killer, talking dogs and mysterious strangers, among other interesting characters. ■ fairfax studio, Arts Centre, 100 st Kilda road, Melbourne. Until August 18, 8pm. 1300 182 183.
album. The band has organised a party to celebrate the launch at Old Bar in fitzroy, which will also feature performances from dan and Amy and rob Muinos. The prints will be on sale on the night. ■ Old Bar, 74-76 Johnston street, fitzroy. August 21, 8pm. www.farrowmusic.com
Proximity SING-A-LONG-A SOUND OF MUSIC The Sound of Music is a cross-generational classic; something not lost on the organisers of this sing-a-long. The Arts Centre will host three sessions that begin with a live warm-up led by a surprise host, a costume parade with prizes, followed by a screening of the film with all song lyrics projected onto the big screen. if you feel like dressing up as your favourite character, rest assured you won’t be the only one. fun packs full of props will be distributed during the show to be used at various stages throughout the film. ■ state Theatre, Arts Centre, 100
st Kilda road, Melbourne. August 16, 7.30pm and August 17, 1pm and 7.30pm. 1300 182 183. musiC FARROW PRINT PARTY Melbourne band farrow have collaborated with artists and designers to produce an entirely home-grown album, right down to the artwork. Artists Amelia leuzzi, Will devereux and hayden daniel were challenged to draw something inspired by the band’s latest songs. Their final sketches will feature as the album’s artwork for three singles, to be released from their coming
leCtures & Forums NEFERTITI: THE REAL STORY Nefertiti is undoubtedly one of the most famous queens of the ancient world. in October the NGV will present an exhibition on the ancient world which promises to provide a closer look at this fascinating society. for those wanting a head start, Marc Gabolde, one of the world’s leading scholars on Nefertiti, will focus on the queen’s life and role as a royal consort to Akhenaten, her parentage, whether she ruled in her own right and whether she was the mother of Tutankhamun. Gabolde has spent the past few years excavating in the royal Wadi at Amarna, Akhenaten and Nefertiti’s capital city, making for some rare
OLIVE COTTON AT SPRING FOREST The career of celebrated contemporary photographer Olive edith Cotton spanned six decades, although it was punctuated by a prolonged hiatus in country NsW. But she never stopped taking photographs. This talk takes a look at her disappearance from public life, and the factors that drew her away. Photography curator, art historian and writer helen ennis will discuss Cotton’s life from a biographical perspective, focusing on marriage, family life, creativity and photography. ■ Clemenger BBdO Auditorium, ground level, NGV international, 180 st Kilda road, Melbourne. August 17, 3.30-4.30pm. 8620 2222. \ COMPILED BY LEXI COTTEE
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EXPRESSIONS OF INTEREST FOR THE PURCHASE OF THE WHOLE PROPERTY OR PART OF THE DEVELOPMENT
Proposed Development Plan
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insights into a fascinating and much-debated story. ■ Clemenger BBdO Auditorium (enter north entrance, via arts centre forecourt), NGV international, 180 st Kilda road, Melbourne. August 15, 6-7pm. 8620 2222.
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The popularity of Mt Everest Adventure has grown since the first trek to Mt Everest in the 1950s. Trek to this part of the Himalaya within the limited time and with memorable experience, we are organising trips for spring and autumn. This lodge-based trek offers mountain panoramas and an insight into the lives of the Sherpa people. Join Peregrine on their 12 day Everest Adventure from $1425.00*. *pp twin share on discounted departures. Normal price $1550.00.
Fresh from a six-month super-sized North American tour, SCOOBY-DOO LIVE! MUSICAL MYSTERIES returns to Melbourne for the September School Holidays with an all-American cast, clever staging and heaps of spooky special effects. A trouble-making ghost is haunting a local theatre and Shaggy, Fred, Daphne, Velma and Scooby-Doo are on their way in the Mystery Machine to crack the case. Tickets selling fast, book yours now at:
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