DANIEL MARTIN Makeup
NEW YORK 421 WEST 14TH ST. 2ND FLOOR NEW YORK, NY 10014 T: 212.352.0777 F: 212.462.2778
LOS ANGELES 518 NORTH LA CIENEGA BLVD. LOS ANGELES, CA 90048 T: 310.276.0777 F: 310.276.0107
BIOGRAPHY Born to a French father and Vietnamese mother, makeup artist Daniel Martin was raised in four different countries and four different states before the age of 15. His earliest memory of makeup was watching his French grandmother put her face on for the day. There was a method to her ritual that he found fascinating; from prepping the skin with a certain tonic, to a lipstick used for both lips and cheeks. From a young age he understood that makeup wasn't about what one uses, but how one uses it. After living in Seattle during the mid 1990's, Daniel moved to the east coast to focus his passion. In his journey to the Big Apple he found himself in Richmond, Virginia, apprenticing at an Aveda concept salon. There he cultivated his skills, earned a license and soon after started teaching for the brand regionally. It wasn't until a client from a local ad agency needed a last minute makeup artist that he would experience on-set session work first hand. Ten years later, Daniel has found his niche in the city he always dreamed of living in. In 2001, he had the unique opportunity to work with Aveda's product development team on the re-launch of its makeup line. It was a project that took several years to accomplish, but he gained valuable knowledge from the experience. After years in corporate beauty, Daniel left to master his craft professionally. Assisting notable artists Pati Dubroff, Pat McGrath and Virginia Young, Daniel learned three distinctly different points of view and has encompassed all to create his own unique approach to makeup. Martin’s partnership with French beauty giant, Lancôme, paved the way to loyal relationships with fashion designers Chris Benz, Proenza Schouler, Richard Chai and Thakoon all of whom rely on Daniel's creativity for special projects and collaborations. Vanity Fair, Harper's Bazaar and Interview are a select few of the publications Daniel’s work has been featured in. He was also one of two makeup artists who had exclusive privilege to participate in the historic "All Black" issue of Vogue Italia shot by legendary photographer, Steven Meisel. With a solid following of editors, society girls, and celebrities ranging from Veronica Webb, Chloë Sevigny and Greta Gerwig, Daniel's approach to makeup is always refined and harmonious. Instagram: @dmartnyc Twitter: @dmartnyc
PHOTOGRAPHERS Annie Leibovitz Beau Grealy Benny Horne Blossom Berkofsky Bo Marion Cass Bird Chad Pitman Christian MacDonald Daniel King Danielle St. Laurent David Armstrong Douglas Friedman Eric Guillemain François Dischinger Gabor Jurina Gregory Harris Hugh Lippe James Macari Jennifer Livingston Jonathan Becker Kevin O’Brien Marlene Marino Mary Ellen Matthews Max Abadian Pamela Hanson Paul Maffi Robbie Fimmano Robert Maxwell Robert Nethery Ryan Michael Kelly Sebastian Kim Simon Burstall Stas Komarovski Steven Meisel Steven Sebring Stewart Shining Terry Richardson Todd Selby Tom Schirmacher EDITORIAL 10 Men Dossier ELLE Fantastic Man Glamour Harper’s Bazaar Harper's Bazaar España Interview Jalouse
L’Officiel Nylon Purple Fashion Teen Vogue V Magazine VMAN Vanity Fair Vogue Vogue Gioiello Vogue Italia Vogue Paris W
ADVERTISING Almay Amsale Bloomingdale’s Champion Christos dELIA*s Dooney & Bourke Isabella Fiore Kenneth Pool Nordstrom Ports 1961 QuickSilver Girls Shinola Shiseido CELEBRITIES Amanda Peet Chloë Sevigny Dianna Agron Elettra Wiedemann Eliza Doolittle Elisa Sednaoui Emily Browning Greta Gerwig Gretchen Mol Jane Lynch Jennifer Lawrence Jessica Szohr Kate Bosworth Katharine McPhee Krysten Ritter Malin Akerman Nina Dobrev Olivia Palermo Robyn Taissa Farmiga
Vanessa Traina Veronica Webb Victoria Traina RUNWAY Chris Benz Creatures of the Wind Kenneth Pool Reem Acra Yeohlee
All photos courtesy of Daniel Martin. Photo by Serena Becker
make - up artist number 119
Daniel Martin combines polish with professionalism
By Chantel Fernow
f Dior celebrity make-up artist Daniel Martin ever doubted that he’d work in beauty and fashion, you wouldn’t know it when he recalls the details of his first make-up gig. “My youngest sister, I would say, was my first face to do makeup on,” he says. “It was for her prom. Back then MTV’s House of Style was big, so we wanted a real New York fashion moment. While her friends wore Jessica McClintock dresses, I got her into a Betsey Johnson dress and shoes from John Fluevog. I had a tear sheet ripped out of Vogue magazine of Yasmeen Ghauri that was my make-up and hair inspiration for her too. Back then, M.A.C. Spice Lip Pencil and Twig Lipstick was the quint-
essential lip combo of the early ’90s. Every girl had that combo in their purse.” Fast forward two decades and Martin’s career has been undeniably glamorous, from working backstage for Chanel at Parisian fashion shows to regularly painting the faces of celebrities such as Olivia Palermo, Jessica Alba, Emmy Rossum and Julianne Moore. Though Martin’s early years were less star-studded, they did have international flair. Originally born in Kansas to a French father and Vietnamese mother, Martin traveled and lived all over the world with his family, from the American Midwest to Asia and Central America. They eventually settled in Seattle.
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My biggest accomplishment in my career has been my ability to adapt, listen and problem solve in any given situation.
make - up artist number 119
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Photos by Dusan Reljin, Matt Sprout, Markus Pritzi. opposiTe page, clockwise from Top lefT:
“I grew up knowing my father’s side mostly; my mom’s family was unfortunately displaced because of the Vietnam War,” explains Martin. “His mother, my grandmother, was my biggest inspiration. She encouraged my creativity and made us proud of our Indochine background during a time when people weren’t happy with U.S. and Vietnamese relations in the 1970s. “Growing up, I was always doing art. I was going to college for art history and I used to work in the cosmetics department at Nordstrom in Seattle, back in the early ’90s. I met someone from L.A. who worked in film and she had such great stories of being on set and I thought to myself, ‘That would be something I would totally be into.’ Unfortunately, that encouraged me to drop out of college, become a club kid and move to the East Coast. My folks were not happy, to say the least. “I got serious about my career in Richmond, Virginia,” he continues, “when I started working at an Aveda Concept Salon. I couldn’t cut a straight line to save my life, so I focused more on the face than hair. I wound up as the salon’s aesthetician doing facials, brows and make-up. From there I started teaching for Aveda, having the East Coast territory, which exposed me to the whole platforming circuit of hair shows. That experience led me to working with a local advertising and modeling agency, getting my feet wet for what was to come before I made the move to New York.” Martin says two people in particular influenced his career: Kerry Diamond and his mentor in Virginia, Ken Langston. “In 2005,” says Martin, “Kerry was the PR director for Lancôme, previously the beauty director at Harper’s Bazaar magazine, who took me under her wing and reintroduced me to the
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make - up artist number 119
Photos by Slavin Vlasic, Mark Peckmezian, Randy Brooke.
page, clockwise from Top lefT:
... 80 percent of getting editorial work is through relationships & 20 percent is your actual talent.
Photo by Oliver Stalmans
fashion community after I left corporate beauty at Aveda. She also introduced me to Brooke Wall, the founder of my agency, The Wall Group, who’s been representing me for almost 10 years now. “With Lancôme, years ago, I created a one-off limited-edition lipstick with my friend/designer Chris Benz. We debuted the shade at his show for New York Fashion Week. It was exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue and sold out in preorders before it hit shelves. From that I had an opportunity to create another limited-edition lipstick with Tatcha exclusive to Barneys, and that did equally as well. Right now I’m a Dior celebrity make-up artist but I still have my hands in development with a couple niche brands.” While Diamond helped supply Martin with valuable industry connections, Langston’s influence over Martin’s career had more to do with technique and style. “Ken owned the salon I worked at and taught me how to look at hair and make-up with a discerning eye: understanding composition and when too much is too much. To this day, he is the only person I know that can do both hair and make-up exceptionally well. In [U.S.] fashion you have to do one or the other, but he can roller set and beat a face like no one’s business! There’s a whole generation that will never know the fundamentals, and I’m fortunate I learned all of that from him. “If I could do anything differently,” Martin continues, “it would be to have assisted someone a lot longer than I did. Back then, I was a rotating assistant at Streeters agency between Pat McGrath and Virginia Young. I was fortunate to learn two different styles of make-up. Because of that experience, I learned how to train and nurture my assistants accordingly.” Over the years Martin has taken everything he’s learned and developed his own style. “What sets me apart is my respect for the skin and my ability to enhance and complement one’s own natural beauty, pulling out their best features rather than flooding the face with color,” he explains. “Too much make-up is bourgeois for my taste. … My aesthetic is very polished and sophisticated. My make-up will never look like someone spent hours getting it done.” While Martin is talented with his brushes, he admits he still struggles with being nitpicky. “I’m always going to be my worst critic,” he says. “It’s a horrible Virgo trait to be such a perfectionist. No matter how beautiful one of my girls may feel, I’ll always look for what I didn’t do enough of.” Still, he can thrive under varying working conditions. “My biggest accomplishment in my career has been my ability to adapt, listen and problem solve in any given situation,” he explains. “From make-up in a car on the way to the Met Gala to working with my show team in a commercial kitchen for a New York Fashion Week show. Sometimes it’s not so much about what you do but how you handle yourself that gets you the job.” After working in the industry for 20 years, Martin now has plenty of advice to offer to up-and-comers regarding how to make it in this competitive field. “I believe because of social media the skill level of artistry has definitely changed,” he explains. “There’s a whole new genera-
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tion of artists who won’t ever experience the training or upbringing my generation has gone through, and it’s unfortunate. Besides learning as an assistant or going through an apprenticeship, you also learn the etiquette of being on set and creating through collaboration. Social media is merely a marketing vessel for your craft; it shouldn’t limit your skills. “If you want to get into editorial, I really encourage you to assist. Besides the process and telling the story you’re creating, there’s experiences and faux pas you learn going through the process that are equally beneficial. Also, more importantly, the relationships you create along the way. I would say 80 percent of getting editorial work is through relationships and 20 percent is your actual talent. Sad but true.” As Martin has matured, his own approach to work has seen some shifts. “In the beginning,” he says, “it was all very exciting, but now, as I’m older, you value your time and worth much differently. The industry is not as glamorous as it once was, and no one’s flying first class for editorials like they used to either. I’m very particular with the type of work I do as well. Because there’s more hair and make-up artists now, one really needs to create your own point of view to stand out in such an overcrowded space.” Despite the competition and the demands of the job, it’s clear that Martin’s career has been gratifying and full of surprises. “What I love most about being a make-up artist are the friendships and experiences I’ve cultivated doing this job,” he says. “You get to work with different teams every day and it’s a whole new adventure each time. “My very first actress was Molly Ringwald. Growing up on her movies, she was an icon. … One time I was working with Yoko Ono in her apartment at The Dakota [on the Upper West Side of Manhattan]—mind you it has never changed since John Lennon passed away—and she dozed off while I was doing her make-up. For a moment I couldn’t wake her up and I thought she died. Last year I was working with Jessica Alba and got to meet the first lady, Michelle Obama. And a few years ago I was working on a press junket in London with Greta Gerwig and we got to ride down the Thames river in a private yacht with Dame Helen Mirren. She was so nice and down to earth!” Before our interview, Martin went off to work with Charlotte Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin for an appearance at the Film Society of Lincoln Center. Later that evening, the bicoastal artist says, he reflected on my last question—what big career dreams did he have for the future?—while finishing off a box of Francois Payard truffles. His answer? “I’ve been extremely blessed and fortunate to have worked in every different medium as a make-up artist: working backstage at Chanel in Paris, developing product with a luxury cosmetics company, creating looks for a Broadway show. I’ve experienced all of it, so any big career dream would be a [literal] career change at this point!” MA
Daniel Martin will teach at IMATS New York this April. For more information, go to imats.net.
make - up artist number 119
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InStyle May 2016
Clockwise from topcenter:Guerl ain K issK iss ShapingCream Lip Color i n 5 0 0 Fall In Nude($37, sephora.com).Make Up For Ever A r t i s t Rouge Cream inC-108 ($22, makeupforever.com).Bare Mi nerals_ Gen Nude Radiant Lipstick inNotorious ($20, bareminerals.com). Chanel Rouge Allure i n Rouge lngenue($37, chanel.com).lnglo t Lipstick M a t t e i n 4 0 2 ($15,inglotusa.com). Oribe Lip Lust Creme Lipstick The Nude ($42, orib·e.com). MaybeIline New York Color Sensational The Loaded Bolds i n N u d e Thrill(SB, drugstores).Urban DecayVice Lipstick i n S t a r k Naked($17, sephora.com).Cente r left:Charlo tt e Tilbury H o t Lips i n Kim K.W.($32, charlottetil bury .co m) .Cen ter right: No7 Moisture Drench LipstickinHoney Bloom($13, target om).
look great beauty playbook
Top row, f r o m left: Make Up For Ever Artist Rouge Cream C-407 (522, makeupforever.com). Maybel.line New York Color S e n s a t i o n ! T he Loaded Bolds i n Smok ing Red (SB, drugstores). Sephora Collection Rouge M a t t e Lipstick in Rude Boy (512.50, sephora.com). Middle row: Shiseido Rouge Rouge Lipstick in Bloodstone (528, shiseido.com). Mally Beauty H3 Lipstick in Grapevine (521, mallybeauty.com). Avon True Color Perfectly M a t t e Lipstick in Superb Wine (59, avon.com). Bo.ttom row: Urban Decay Vice Lipstick i n Gash (517, sephora.co m). MAC Cosmetics Lipstick i n Bowl M e Over (Sl7, maccosmetics.co m). Rimmel London The Only 1Lipstick in 810 O n e - o f - a-K i nd (SB, drugstores).
lookgreat beauty playbook
Leftrow, left t o right: Merle N o r m a nA ge Defying+ Lipcolor inFuchsia Flirt ($15, merlenorman.co m) . lng lo t Lipstick Matte i n 4 2 3 ($15, inglotusa.com) .Urba nDecay Vice Lipstick i n Crush($17,sephora.com).L'Ore al Paris Colour Riche Collection Exclusive i n Doutzen's Pink ($9, drug stores).Rightrow, left t o r i g h t : Burt's Bees Lipstick i n Fuchsia Flood ($9, drugstores).Make U p For Ever Artist Rouge Cream i n C - 2 06 ($22, makeupforever.com) . Mary Kay Gel L i p s t i c k -S em i - M at t ei n Powerful Pink ($18,marykay.com). Make Up For Ever Artist Rouge M a t t e i n M-201 ($22,makeupforever.co m).C lar insJol iRou ge Brilliant i n 2 7 H o tFuchsia($28,clarins.com).
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