m gy le y t s
BEST DRESSED OF FLING VINTAGE BOUTIQUE GUIDE WHAT TO WEAR FOR
BEDROOMS OF PENN
PHILLY ART SCENE
EAT SHOP PLAY
MUTED HUES & SOFT SILHOUETTES
experience timeless style
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Jocelyn Teece Editor-in-Chief
Shayna Monahemi Creative Director Lauren Rothberg Editorial Director
Sabrine Bilger, Josy Blair, Carlyn Mehaffey-Coy, Anna Christofferson, Marsha Low, Leah Pellegrini, Erica Sachse, Caroline Stern, Melissa Urfirer, Caitlin Vieth Stylists Lennie Zhu Accessories Stylist Chloe Heckman Beauty Director Natasha Scott Bookings Editor
Alaina Urbahns Fashion Editor Melissa Schall Beauty and Features Editor Sabrina Shyn Copy Editor
Denis O’Flynn O’Brien, Aurora Wardlaw Photography Directors Lisa Gonzalez-Turner, Ariel Herman, Amanda Jackson, Alex Remnick Photographers
ART AND DESIGN
Emily Sherbany Art Director Jacqueline Lem Assistant Art Director Melanie Appleby, Emma Baiada, Josy Blair, Kayla Fuchs, Preeya Goradia, Natalia Juncadella, Margot Konig, Alex Luzi, Irene Manousiouthakis Layout Team
Marissa D’Onofrio, Kayla Fuchs, Kate Hoblitzell, Mae Hochhauser, Alexandra Levine, Madeleine Macks, Whitney Mash, Cordelia Meserow, Leah Pellegrini, Nikki Pepperman, Samantha Perelman, Jim Santel, Christina Stewart, Alaina Urbahns
Editor-in-Chief Jocelyn Teece Website Director Jason S. Mow Editorial Director Jordyn Shaffer Website Operations Coordinator Monta Ozolina Senior Fashion Editor Elonia McHenry Senior Health Editor Nikki Pepperman Senior Features Editor Hannah Bender Senior Shopping Editor Janey Goldberg Junior Fashion Editor Jackie Chayet Junior Features Editor Alex Luzi Fashion Writers Whitney Mash, Shelly Tang, Ashley M. Welch Health Writer Catherine Hu Website Copy Editor Sharon Friedlander Blog Director Emma Baiada Blog Managers Sabrine Bilger, Rachel Harrison-Gorden, Ibie Longjohn, Lynn Nguyen, Erica Sasche, Lennie Zhu
Questions? Comments? Want to get involved? Email us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
ON THE COVER: Jason Gorskie ‘11 is wearing: shirt, Barneys New York CO-OP, $145; sweater, Maison Martin Margiela, $650. Photographed by Lisa Gonzalez-Turner. Styled by Carolina Ernst.
THE EDITOR In 1965, four Japanese photographers published a book that enjoyed explosive popularity. The concept was simple enough: the photographers traveled to America’s most prestigious university campuses and snapped photos of college aged men striding to class in loafers and cuffed-up khakis. The boys had chiseled jaw lines as accessories and gorgeous Collegiate Gothic architecture as their backdrop. The images were arresting, and the publication of the book, Take Ivy, created an eruption of interest in what came to be called American “Ivy League” style in Tokyo. Today, original copies of the book have been auctioned off for two thousand dollars a pop. Take Ivy serves to remind us that what we see as ordinary, others perceive as extraordinary. Habitual strolls down Locust are a privilege, as is the fact that we attend class with stylish peers from all over the world in lecture halls that have existed for over a century.* In this issue of The WALK, we had to look no further than our own campus to find “Ivy League” style. But we also wanted to explore what collegiate style means to us. Our story on fraternity stereotypes features clothing that campus groups use to define and distinguish themselves, and it simultaneously probes at what lies behind these self-made images. Our “Modern Movement” shoot features two talented Penn dancers, Jackie Gage and Ariella Freund, dressed in clothing entirely found in local Philadelphia boutiques. Our feature “Spring Fling Fashion” speaks for itself in making the case for campus fashion that includes neon fanny packs and cropped tops. While Take Ivy teaches that classic collegiate style never fades, Fling fashion reminds us each year that our spirit is equally invincible – and our “Ivy Style” its own unique brand. *College Hall was erected in 1873.
NES E SCE
table of contents
WALK VOLUME V / ISSUE III
SPRING/SUMMER 2011 ARTS & STYLE
Take Two for take ivy
the what's what of the philadelphia art scene
international eat shop play
BRINGING DOWN THE (FRAT) HOUSE
looking sweet through the sweat
BALLERS OF PENN
finding the perfect mix
adieu, monsieur galliano
what to wear for summer
HEAVY METAL accessories
spring fling fashion
penn fashion week diary
best of blue mercury
the walk is in your place
Rediscovering the original guide to preppy
Everything you need to know about First Fridays
Buenos Aires, Paris, Rome, and Sydney
Deconstructing Greek stereotypes
How to deal with back pain after an intense workout
How to pump up your Pottruck routine
Senior Penn basketball players show off their strength and ferocity
Guide to vintage boutiques
Fashion fades but style lasts forever
Our top picks for summer, only one click away
Add some edge to whimsical summer styles
Campus Look Book: Spring Fling 2011
Our annual Penn Fashion Week diary covers Vera Wang’s visit and more
Waltz into summer with muted hues and soft silhouettes
Our favorite products at 36th and Walnut
An insider’s view of creative students in their self-made spaces
TAKE TWO FOR TAKE IVY: REDISCOVERING THE ORIGINAL GUIDE TO PREPPY
BY JIM SANTEL ake Ivy, the long out-of-print book that introduced Ivy League style to Japan, has been republished at a moment of transition in America’s nostalgic affair with the 1960s. Thanks to Mad Men and films like Revolutionary Road, the cultural powers that be have shifted their attention from the Woodstock years to the decade’s opening, a more conservative time when Eisenhower solidity mingled with Kennedy vigor; on runways and in fashion spreads, the New Frontier has replaced the New Left. Mad Men has been lauded for its fastidious attention to stylistic accuracy: no necktie is ever too wide, no skirt too short. But that obsession with historical detail sometimes makes for an intrusive artificiality. It’s hard to watch the show without considering the team of stylists that no doubt considers every crease in Don Draper’s suits, whereas John Kennedy never woke up and asked himself, “What would John Kennedy wear today?” Take Ivy doesn’t suffer from this pressure to get it right, for it doesn’t have to, having originally
been published in 1965. The record of four Japanese style enthusiasts’ visits to Ivy League campuses that spring (though alas, no photos from Penn made the final cut), Take Ivy attained to cult status during its decades of unavailability, some collectors reportedly paying thousands of dollars for rare copies. Thanks to powerHouse books, the company responsible for the book’s Englishlanguage reprint, those searching for a more authentic vein of preppy can own it for 25 bucks. Not that Take Ivy wasn’t worth those exorbitant sums. The book is an indispensible reminder that “preppy” didn’t always denote pink polo shirts. Indeed, you won’t see the p-word in this book at all; instead, its authors use the simple term “Ivy” to encompass not just a style but also a culture, the WASPy vision of the all-American male that prevailed before the cultural shakeouts of the late ’60s. It is a vision on display in every gorgeous photograph, which in the simplest sense depict young men at ease, whether strolling to church in tweed jackets and loose ties or playing an intramural baseball game in khakis and loafers.
Little idiosyncrasies like boating hats and elbow patches reinforce the sense of unstudied poise that so appeals to the reader, and to its authors, whose captions barely contain their credulous awe of Ivy culture (“Ivy League libraries are always full of diligent students”). It is this unassuming quality that makes the styles on parade in Take Ivy so attractive, and so difficult to replicate, much less summarize. The authors’ attempts to codify Ivy style for Japanese readers are unintentionally comic: “Wearing shoes without socks and untucking your shirt can be overlooked only because the students are on campus,” warns one caption. Some of these looks, of course, are better left in 1965. The pudgy lad in a tweed jacket, madras shorts, and crew socks, for instance. And it’s hard to page through Take Ivy without noticing the absence of minorities and women, the latter appearing only as dates from neighboring sister schools. But as a dispatch from a time when dressing down meant Oxfords instead of sweats, Take Ivy is a relic W worth revering.
Left: The original Take Ivy cover was orange and displayed the seals of all eight Ivy League schools. The cover of the second version displays a photograph by Teruyoshi Hayashida. Above: Photographs from Take Ivy, all taken by Teruyoshi Hayashida. Published by powerHouse Books.
06 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
THE WHAT’S WHAT
OF THE PHILADELPHIA ART SCENE BY KATE HOBLITZELL
Looking for a fun activity to get you out and about as the weather starts to warm up? There has never been a better time to explore Philadelphia’s art scene than this spring. No matter what your taste, there are amazing shows and events happening now at museums and galleries all over the city. Whether you’re an arts connoisseur or new to the scene, there is something for everyone this season. n the first Friday of every month, all the galleries downtown stay open late to have openings for their newest shows. Old City is filled with people wandering from location to location, enjoying free food and drinks and admiring the art. There are spaces showing works of all types, ranging from ceramics to installations to paintings. The core of the gallery district is right around 3rd and Arch Street. One place to definitely check out in this neighborhood is the Church Street Project Space at 3rd and Church Street. Recently opened by a current Penn MFA student, the space often features pieces by Penn artists. It is a very dynamic gallery, which often includes both traditional and avant-
garde work in the same show. Another cool spot a little more off the map is Vox Populi at 11th and Carlton Street. The gallery alone is an interesting stop, but the building it is located in is also an interesting place to explore. It is filled with record shops, numerous “pop up” stores, and galleries of all sorts. If you are looking for a more traditional experience, venture over to the Locks Gallery on Washington Square. It is a well-known space and often features work by more established contemporary artists. As the weather gets warmer, first Fridays become even more popular, so be sure to take advantage of this fantastic Philly experience.
PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART Until June 5th, the PMA is having an amazing show on fashion designer Roberto Capucci. His elegant and inspiring designs have made him world famous as not only a fashion designer, but also as an artist. The exhibition, which includes his clothing as well as drawings, shows his incredible use of form and color in his work. From left to right, top to bottom: Piece by Kate Stewart at Vox Populi Gallery; Marylin by Carol Whisker at 3rd Street Gallery; Piece from Vases and Chocolate online gallery at The Clay Studio; Over the Bridge at 3rd Street Gallery; Daily Operation by Michael Fujita at The Clay Studio; Piece by Linday Yun at Vox Populi Gallery; Piece from Standing on the Edge: 20th Century Sculpture at Locks Gallery; Second Life (still) by Michael Fujita at The Clay Studio; Piece from Small Favors VI at The Clay Studio.
INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART OF PHILADELPHIA This museum has two immediate benefits: first, admission is free, and second, it’s on campus (Samson and 36th)! Additionally, from now until August 4th, they have an amazing retrospective of work by Sheila Hicks. Her pieces include elements of sculpture, weaving, photography, and fabric design, and are truly remarkable.
EAT SHOP PLAY
Each year our beloved University sends more than 600 Penn students on semester and yearlong adventures overseas. And while the Penn Abroad website promises to provide answers to your questions about “what programs are recommended for academic credit, how to apply for admission, how to finance the cost, and what Penn expects of you as a participant,” The WALK thought you might also be curious about what to do with your free time – where to eat, where to shop, and where to play on foreign soil. Whether you’re going to Sydney, Buenos Aires, Rome, or Paris, we have you covered.
PLAY: Head down to Darling Harbour during EAT: If you like seafood, A Fish Called Coogee is a must. Located on the sunny, bustling main
road of Coogee Beach in the Eastern suburbs of Sydney, this busy little dive sports the freshest fish you can find, along with authentic, Asian-inspired sauces that give the fish a unique flavor after it is cooked right in front of you! The bok choy is also to die for! Looking for an equally delicious but less affordable dinner? Check out Aria in Circular Quay. With a gorgeous view of the entire city and a spot directly in front of the extraordinary Sydney Opera House, this exquisite venue will satisfy your eyes and palate. The lamb rack is stellar, as is the pasta, but don’t forget dessert! If Aria’s fancy desserts do not suit you and you are looking for something more casual, check out Smooch frozen yogurt in Bondi Beach. Trendy and tasty, this is a great spot to chill with friends on a gorgeous day before hitting up the beach to ogle at the hot surfers (or maybe do some surfing yourself.) Then you can stuff your face after a night of partying at Pancakes on the Rocks, which features breakfast all-day (and late into the night.)
SHOP: Sydney has some of the most unique clothes and funky
Sydney is filled with delicious restaurants, unique shops, and fun sites for every day of the week.
accessories out there. Glebe Market in Glebe brims with distinctive handmade jewelry, some of which you can even design yourself, crazy vintage selections, and pretty tops. Paddington markets have a similar feel, but if you leave the market area and explore the neighboring streets, you’ll find “heaps” (as Aussies say) of highend boutiques introducing Australia’s prominent and emerging designers. You can find pieces by Sydney’s most influential designers on an even larger scale at David Jones, the Saks Fifth Avnue of Sydney.The mall at Bondi Junction includes similar Australian designers like Sass & Bide and Zimmerman but also contains the chic but less expensive Forever 21’s of Sydney, like SportsGirl. Finally, for some cute boutiques and funky jewelry as well as mainstream stores, roam the quaint streets of Surrey Hills.
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA BY CHRISTINA STEWART
08 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
the day to visit the famous aquarium, complete with sharks of all sizes, and see a 3D IMAX movie in the biggest IMAX screen in the world. Then at night head to Cargo Bar, which features two busy floors and an outdoor patio full of twenty and thirty-somethings. Another day, head to Circular Quay to stroll atop Sydney Tower Skywalk and peer down through the glass from one of the highest buildings in Sydney! Then hit up The Argyle for a happy hour full of gigantic neon heat lamps and fresh fruity drinks, followed by The Ivy. But make sure to dress your best or The Ivy won’t allow you to enjoy their elegant martinis, swimming pool, and polished, professional crowd! Unlike these bars, which are packed most nights of the week, some Sydney nightspots are better on certain days. Sunday nights, dress your classiest for Hugo’s in King’s Cross, which offers discounts on pizzas and specialty cocktails. The next night, be sure to wear something that you don’t mind getting beer on for the Scubar, the student/backpacker’s joint. Get there early to see the hermit crab races and dance on into the night to the best music of today. Tuesday, get ready to belt your heart out to 80s and 90s songs played by the stellar band at Scruffy Murphy’s, which attracts American students and the occasional America-loving Australian. Wednesday, go see the artsy band and play some poker at the Beach Road Hotel in Bondi Beach or get your guido on at the Eastern in Bondi Junction. Thursdays, The Regent Hotel (“The Rege”) in Randwick is a must for students. Show off your beautiful voice at karaoke after some beer and cider with your crew. For the weekend, pregame at The Clock Hotel or The White Horse in Surrey Hills, and head to World Bar for an artsy crowd and drinks served from teapots!
ARTS&STYLE\thewalk Rome is the perfect place to sample the world’s tastiest pizza, pasta, and bruschetta. Bruschetta photograph courtesy of swtkmtlg.cw.cm.
ROME, ITALY BY ALEXANDRA LEVINE
EAT: When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie it’s amore. Well, either that…or it’s Gusto pizza. You’ve never seen an
optical illusion quite like it: the thinnest crust with the doughiest texture. Not the mamma mia pizzeria type? Try Gusto’s overthe-top buffet. Load your plate with fresh pastas twisted into exotic shapes, meats to make your mouth water, and formaggio oozing with the utmost cheesiness. Now – if you’re feeling like a wannabe wine snob, head to Piazza Navona and check out Cul De Sac, Rome’s first authentic enoteca (specializes in wine, wine and more wine). Meatballs doused in red wine, mashed potatoes doused in white wine…you might as well unbutton your jeans before walking in. CARBe diem! But when your tastebuds grow weary of this savory overload, indulge in the city’s best gelato at Fridgadarium (Piazza Navona) or Old Bridge (Vatican City). Sayonora, Sprinkles. Peace out, Pink Berry. You’ll just never make the cut for me…ever again.
SHOP: Quando sei a Roma, fai come i romani. When in Rome, do as the Ro-
mans do. Oh, and while you’re at it, dress as they dress, because they just look so damn good. Stroll down Via Governo Vecchio for vintage finds – faux fur, chunky jewelry and designer loafers from the 1960’s. Go boho at Toko, sophisticata at Maga Morgana, and grungy-chic at Josephine de Huertas. Thirsty for some high fashion eye candy? Just underneath the Spanish Steps are Via Condotti and Via Babuino, Rome’s very own Madison Avenues. Avant-garde boutiques, Eleonora and Tad, boast everything from haute couture clothing to chic home décor to music to the trendiest helmets you’ll ever sport on your Vespa. *Be sure to pick one up before a gorgeous Italian stallion whisks you away on his moto. Biking through the Tuscan countryside is a nice way to spend a beautiful day in Italy.
Tuscany Bike Tours provides activities like wine tasting in a romantic setting.
PLAY: Blend in with the locals during happy hour at city hotspots Bar Della Pace and Bar Del Fico. You know, order some aperitivi and get your shmooze on. Not your speed? Hop a train to Tuscany for a daylong bike excursion through the rolling countryside. Tuscany Bike Tours prides itself on its wine tasting in the medieval castles of picturesque Chianti. Molto bello. Calling all hopeless romantics: this is straight out of a honeymoon! It’s your time to shine.
BY ALAINA URBAHNS
EAT: There’s a debate raging in Paris, and it’s about who serves the best macarons, the deliciously sugary/salty French pastry. Although they can be found in virtually all boulangerie outposts across the city, there are two famous brands: Ladurée and Pierre Hermé. Almost everyone has an opinion on the matter; I’ll leave it up to each visitor to Paris to pick their own. I prefer the Ladurée ones, if only for the deliciously frothy over the top packaging and Belle Époque interiors of the stores. Ladureé also offers teatime every afternoon, as well as a brunch on Sundays. Bon Appétit! Ladurée and Pierre Hermé have locations throughout the city. Visit laduree.fr and pierreherme.com for more information.
Left: Although macarons can be found in almost any boulangerie outpost in Paris, the two most famous brands are Ladurée and Pierre Hermé
EAT: If you a diehard foodie (and you know if you are!) then there’s
only one place in Paris for you: La Grand Épicerie, the food outpost of Le Bon Marché. Located on the Left Bank and attached to the store, this is truly every food lover’s dream. They have gourmet foods from all France, Europe, and the world, including the United States—if you get homesick, come here for marked-up Oreos and peanut butter! There’s truly an endless possibility of food types to be bought here, and if you can dream of it, they probably have it or can get it for you. My personal favorite item is Mariage Frères tea, which is made in France and sold in loose-leaf canisters and individual tea sachets. Try their classic variety, Marco Polo. La Grand Épicerie is located at 38 Rue de Sevrès, 75007.
SHOP: Galeries Lafayette is a tourist magnet, which is the kind of place I avoid at all costs. However, upon presentation of your non-EU passport at the front desk, you will receive a card that gives you 10% off all the merchandise in the store, excluding big names like Chanel and Louis Vuitton. I recommend scoping out items in little boutiques and then buying them here using the discount; with the current Euro rate, every little saving counts! They have thousands of brands and a huge selection of stock, but be prepared to push through tourists and speak English, because the sales people here don’t have time for anyone’s less than magnifique French. Galeries Lafayette is located at 40 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009.
SHOP: Le Marais is an area, not a specific store, but that doesn’t
excluding it from being a shopping destination. It’s also one of the few sections of Paris open on Sundays, owing to the fact that it’s the traditional Jewish quartier and is now one of Paris’ most desirable neighborhoods. Le Marais is located at Métro Stop Saint Paul, Line 1.
Fragonard: The perfect place to get nice French-y souvenirs for your family and friends back home: candles, pillows, perfume, usually decorated with Parisian motifs. Sandro: A favorite spot of mine, they make classic, stylish clothes with a twist at a moderate price point (around 150 Euros for a silk blouse.) The best store to find that item where everyone asks: where did you get that? Zadig&Voltaire: This brand has a very specific “look,” which is studded, somewhat tough-girl chic with a feminine, French attitude. L’As du Falafel: Without a doubt, the best falafel in Paris. Try one and you’ll be an in-
Above: L’Aus du Falafel, located in Le Marais, serves the best falafel in Paris.
10 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
stant believer. Paul&Joe Sister: The younger, cheaper line from Paul&Joe, they’re well-known for fun, ironic, and kitschy prints. Extremely feminine. Mellow Yellow: A fantastic shoe store, with a multitude of styles and colors. Moderately priced (around 130 Euros a pair.) Éram: Another shoe store, but this time much cheaper and trendier (around 45 Euros a pair.) Tabio: This is one of those stores that makes me appreciate Paris and all of its quirkiness. Tabio sells socks, and only socks, and every possible type of sock you could ever want. Toe socks, cashmere socks, over the knee socks, footsies, printed tights…
ARTS&STYLE\thewalk EAT: In a city where red Its whitewashed wooden ac- some customers apprehen-
meat rules the day, and top quality, grass fed beef grilled to perfection can be found on every street corner, a more variable, natural menu really stands out. Palermo Soho has become the center for restaurants with modern, fusion menus that even have options for (gasp!) vegetarians, a word traditionally unheard of in Argentina. Quimbobó occupies the top two floors of a beautiful threestory building overlooking Plaza Armenia, one of Palermo Soho’s many parks.
cents and ample patio space with cabana style seating give it a relaxing, summary feeling, even in the dead of winter. On a sunny day, the stylish decor of the patio is only matched by the crowd of en vogue locals enjoying the cuisine or a cocktail. The menu highlights seasonal foods and combines a variety of ethnicities and techniques to create memorable dishes. Quimbobó is known for its herbal frozen drink blends that feature ginger. These concoctions might make
sive at first, but are not to be missed. (They do, however, offer delicious blends without ginger as well). While the food and drinks alone will ensure your return: don’t skip out on dessert. The Kulfi, pistachio and rose water greek yogurt ice cream topped with fresh strawberries and served with a side of gulab jamun, homemade donuts soaked in cardamom, took my meal from wonderful to exceptional. Quimbobó is located at Costa Rica 4562.
Below: Quimbobó, which overlooks the Plaza Armenia, highlights seasonal foods and creates memorable dishes.
Left: Mishka’s unique style combines the traditional fine leather and suede craftwork of Argentina.
SHOP: With its shoes, handbags, and accessories, Mishka combines the tradi-
tional fine leather and suede craftwork of Argentina with the innovative style that Buenos Aires, and Palermo Soho in particular, have become known for. Every shoe is handmade in Argentina, and while leather might be the most traditional medium, the store’s inventory also incorporates beautiful fabrics and materials like Swarovski crystal. Chelo Cantón, the designer behind the store, practiced as an architect before opting to switch to high fashion, which explains Mishka’s unique style that has made its products so famous in Argentina. Mishka accommodates requests for custom sizing and details to make sure that each customer is perfectly satisfied with their purchase. The boutique has a retro-feminine aire, and sells plenty of 70’s style platforms, low heels, and flats in addition to the sky-high heels that run the fashion world today. The products are bit pricey compared to some of the other stores in the neighborhood, but the one of a kind fine craftsmanship makes it worth the splurge. Mishka is located at El Salvador 4673. Below: Valletierra yoga studio is the perfect place to blow off steam after a long day.
PLAY: Tucked behind a beautiful courtyard on the first floor of the
building housing Quimbobó, Valletierra yoga studio is the perfect place to blow off steam after a day of touring, shopping, and eating your way through Palermo Soho. Yoga has become part of the fitness craze in Buenos Aires; studios are located in high density all over the city and classes taught in parks and private homes are common as well. Valletierra stands out with its wide variety of classes and services, knowledgeable and accommodating staff, as well as its natural, calming décor. In addition to instruction in a variety of different yoga disciplines, like Ashanta, Kundalini and Hatha, the studio offers meditation, classes for pregnant women, and massages. Valletierra holds different events throughout the year, (some of which even for free), that bring in guest teachers or offer training in specific techniques to keeping opportunities at the studio variable. Down-time before or after a class or massage can be spent browsing Valletierra’s beautiful store, which sells yoga equipment, clothing, incenses and other novelties related to peace of the mind and body. Valletierra is located at 4562 Buenos Aires.
PALERMO SOHO, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA
BY MADDIE MACKS
PHOTOGRAPHED BY AURORA WARDLAW STYLED BY CAITLIN VIETH, CARLYN MEHAFFEY-COY, AND LEAH PELLEGRINI BEAUTY BY CHLOE HECKMAN HAIR BY ALEXEY KATS AND ASSISTANT MATT MACINNES OF THE STUDIO CL
On Tanisha: Blouse, Milly, Nordstrom, $340; pants,Thvm, Reward, $99. On Ian: Model’s own.
s ’ a t n i Sa 12 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
BRINGING DOWN THE (FRAT) HOUSE:
DECONSTRUCTING GREEK STEREOTYPES
BY MAE HOCHHAUSER AND WHITNEY MASH he brothers of Animal House are the last things that come to mind when talking to fraternity boys (and now distinguished models) James La Marre, Henry Litman, Nick Rhodes, Ian Moore, Ryan Williams, and Joe Cioffi. In fact, while the open beer cans and boxers on the floor during our interviews screamed fraternity life, these boys showed that they are far from your stereotypical brothers. The boys acknowledged the existence of stereotypes regarding their own fraternities as well as Greek life in general, but also explained how they defied these labels. Although these brothers may love to chug beer, there is a lot more to them than their party tactics and pong techniques. While bright-colored shirts and other Greek letter apparel may seem ubiquitous on Locust Walk, only around twenty-five percent of students at Penn are involved in the twenty-nine fraternities and eight sororities on Penn’s campus. In fact, some of our models expressed that they had not even intended to join a fraternity when they arrived at Penn. James, a member of Pi Lam fraternity, explained that he never expected to become a part of the Greek scene, though he ended up “finding a frat that fit.” Likewise, Nick of Sigma Chi, came to Penn focused on lacrosse, not Greek life. And Ryan decided to join Psi Upsilon (also known as Castle), after realizing that frat boys were not “a bunch of meat heads.” Despite their initial motivations, when asked about what they felt they had gained from their fraternity lives, the boys all responded with some version of the word “friendship.” Joe, a brother of AEPi, felt that fraternities allow students to “meet people you might never meet.” Ryan expressed that in addition to close friendships, being in a fraternity has helped him form a balance between work and play. James and Nick, too, mentioned the value of the networking that frats offer. Watching these boys strike a pose and listening to them laugh as they describe their fraternities, it is evident that they have all valued their experiences as members. With gossip websites like College ACB available to students, pre-existing stereotypes are being cemented even further into the average Penn student’s mind. James agreed that these generalizations seem to pervade the scene: “People always have a story that they associate with a specific frat.” Over the years, fraternities have developed personalities, which students use to differentiate one brotherhood from another. The problem is that these labels are passed on to the incoming freshman through both upperclassman and gossip sites. By the time New Student Orientation ends, every freshman is familiar with the stereotypes of a fraternity and can easily determine in which house they could see themselves.
However, none of these boys seemed too bothered by the fact that stereotypes exist within Greek life. Ian, a brother of St. A’s, actually agreed with the “preppy” stereotype associated with his fraternity. Ryan, embraced his fraternity’s trademark of “scarf-bearing, loafer-wearing and techno-loving guys.” He did not shy away from mentioning that his fraternity contained the most “fashionable guys on campus.” Not all of the boys, though, agreed with their stereotypes. Nick firmly disagreed with his frat’s “pompous, athletic” reputation. He informed us that people would be surprised to discover that his brothers are “down to earth” and care greatly about their philanthropy efforts for the Huntsman Cancer Institute. Ryan combated the “international stamp” on Castle – “Most people are not international,” he affirmed, and added “about 60% of the brothers are American.” He is in fact, a proud citizen of the Midwest. Not only do students categorize fraternities, but also often
On Tanisha: Blouse, Kain, Vagabond, $174; shorts, Topshop, price upon request; shoes, Forever 21. On Ryan Williams: Model’s own.
jump to conclusions about brothers based on what fraternity they are in. Joe stated that he himself was “defying a stereotype” by being a non-Jew in a predominately Jewish frat. However, the generalization associated with his fraternity did not stop him from joining and making friends for life. While some stereotypes about a collective group may ring true, many would be surprised about how wrong they are about the individuals within a fraternity house’s walls. The Greek scene definitely brings together like-minded people but all of our models seemed to agree that within their brotherhood, there exists a mixture of political views, academic interests, and social behaviors. Regardless of their given stereotype, the boys all agreed that they have found people with different values and hobbies within their fraternity to form life-long relationships. It is time for Penn students to look past the clichés of each house, and actually get to know the individuals sporting those everpresent Greek letters. W
On Tanisha: Blouse, Parker, Vagabond, $190; pants, Thvm, Reward, $99; shoes, Anne Michelle. On Henry Litman: Shirt, Obey, Urban Outfitters, $48.
E L T CAS
SAE 14 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
On Tanisha: Vest, Alexander Wang, Knit Wit, $795; ribbed crewneck, Alexander Wang, Knit Wit, $395; shorts, Something Else, Reward, $98; backpack, Il Bisonte, Knit Wit, $948; shoes, Forever 21. On James La Marre: Modelâ€™s own.
PI L AM
I H C A M G SI
On Tanisha:Jeans, Elizabeth and James, Joan Shepp, $244; sweater, Vince, Knit Wit, $245; shoes, Shoedazzle, Stylistâ€™s own. On Nick Rhodes: Flannel, All-Son, Urban Outfitters, $48.
16 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
On Tanisha: Romper, Lucy Love, Smak Parlor. On Joe Cioffi: Model’s own.
LOOKING SWEET THROUGH THE SWEAT
HOW TO PUMP UP YOUR POTTRUCK ROUTINE
Good news for gym-goers and yoga enthusiasts: this summer, athletic wear is officially chic! With bright colors and fresh silhouettes, our favorite sporty staples are being transformed into fun and trendy attire.
18 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
2. 7. 6.
4. 5. 9.
10. 11. GET THE LOOK 1. Purple top, H&M Sport. 2. Coral Pack Away Bag, Adidas by Stella McCartney, $60, net-a-porter.com. 3. Pink sports bra, H&M Sport. 4. Ocean Headphones, Urban Outfitters, $60. 5. Gray gym leggings, Adidas by Stella McCartney, $95. 6. Black gym leggings, H&M Sport. 7. Beige sports bra, H&M Sport. 8. Lime green top, H&M Sport. 9. Turquoise shorts, H&M Sport. 10. Black tote, H&M Sport. 11. Pink watch, Nixon, $60, nordstrom.com.
Dear Nurse Nikki, Sometimes, when I do an intense workout at the gym, I get throbbing back pain afterwards. What do I do? -BackInP8N BackInP8N: Have no fear! Muscle relaxers, commonly prescribed as Skelaxin, act directly on the muscle spasm. They go directly to the site of inflammation – on the back. This is called “specific” and act by inhibiting the pain release at the area of inflammation. Usually, unless in a high dose, muscle relaxers have the same therapeutic effect of aspirin. Aspirin is in the drug class of Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAID for short). Aspirin is a “non-selective” anti-inflammatory, acting on any bodily site with pain, swelling, or inflammation. It inhibits COX I, which is emitted at any location undergoing stress. Basically, aspirin floats around the blood stream until it hits areas with COX I (signaling pain). That said, if you have a headache, fever, and back pain, aspirin will reduce pain in all of these sites. Try an extended release tablet; this way the anti-inflammatory effects last longer. Take pressure off your back by laying on either side. Wear supportive shoes, sneakers with quality soles – and lay off the heels. High heels are not supportive on your knees, and this increases pressure on the spine. If you do not own sneakers, which is just weird, the Philly Runner offers great sales on cool kicks each season. If you are a gym goer, Pottruck rents lockers for 50 bucks a year! Leave your sneakers and workout gear inside. Make these habits ritual and your back will not experience such stress. W
Invest in athletic undergarments made of moisture-wicking fabrics that regulate your body temperature and keep you dry. You can find Under Armour at Modell’s Sporting Goods (901 Market St.) and Philadelphia Runner (3621 Walnut St.), or Techwick at Eastern Mountain Sports (3401 Chestnut St.). Visit American Apparel (3661 Walnut St.) for brightly colored, form-fitting staples. Lululemon (1527 Walnut St.) offers flattering garments in high-tech fabrics for both sexes. Find a wide variety of athletic apparel, shoes, and accessories at City Sports (1608 Walnut St.).
PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMANDA JACKSON STYLED BY SABRINE BILGER, JOSY BLAIR, AND MELISSA URFIRER BEAUTY AND HAIR BY CHLOE HECKMAN
Jane Fonda, 1980s fitness guru.
Top, Nike, $70; skirt, Nike, $55; spandex, American Apparel; Shoes, Nike; socks, stylist’s own.
On Tali: Leotard, Amerian Apparel; Leggings, Under Armour, $40. On Tali: Leotard, Amerian Apparel; Leggings, Under Armour, $40; Shoes, Nike.
$$$ TIP: Philadelphia Runner (3621 Walnut St.)
offers student discounts, so don’t forget your Penn ID!
$$$ TIP: For slim prices on staples, check out Forever 21’s new activewear line (www.forever21.com). STYLE TIP: In our fast-paced modern world, a stylish sneaker is simply more practical, but just as cute, than a stiletto. In bright neon hues and streamlinedshapes, these shoes are a fun addition to any outfit, whether for the gym, class, or a day downtown.
Get yourself a quality pair of over-ear headphones. They come in tons of different colors, and the deeper bass will surely amp up your workout routine. Ditch the sweatpants you bursared at the bookstore freshman year. Form-fitting workout clothing will prevent chafing and make you feel as fit as Jane Fonda. Invest in moisture-wicking fabrics that will keep you dry, and say goodbye to sweat-stained cotton t-shirts.
On Tali Warburg: Vest, Brooks, $55; bandeau, American Apparel, $27
our top five nike sneaks BEST RACING SHOE BEST CUSHION
Best for softening impact when running
Nike Air Max + 2011 Women’s Running Shoe, Nike Online Store, $160
Nike Zoom Victory XC Track and Field Shoe, Nike Online Store, $87.97
Best adapts to every stride
MOST NATURAL FEEL
Nike Free Run 2 iD Running Shoe, Nike Online Store, $115
Nike Zoom Structure Triax+13 iD Women Trail Running Shoe Nike Online Store, $135
The fastest shoe around
Best for ankle support
Nike LunarSwift+ Women’s Running Shoe, Nike Online Store, $85
LOOKING SWEET THROUGH THE SWEAT:
BALLERS OF PENN
Left: Penn girl Meghna Mann stands between Class of 2011 Penn Basketball players Remington Cofield (left) and Darren Smith (right). Right: Class of 2011 Penn Basketball player Conor Turley holds up Meghnaâ€™s weight.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DENIS O'FLYNN O'BRIEN and ariel herman STYLED BY caroline stern BEAUTY AND HAIR BY CHLOE HECKMAN 20 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
BY SAMANTHA PERELMAN In our ever-present culture of consumption where more is more, we no longer want a one-sided shopping experience..we want to mix things up. We don’t just want to shop for designer labels and we sure as hell don’t just want to look at vintage pieces. We want both. So no matter which you coast you find yourself on this summer, here’s a guide to finding exactly what you are looking for.
NEW YORK ELEVEN 15 Prince St. Finding cool vintage items that are also affordable is really not as easy as you might think in New York City. However, Eleven, a small vintage store in Nolita, continues to deliver the vintage basics that you have been scouring for in the city. But it is their easy and uncomplicated selection of t-shirts, sun dresses, combat boots, and sneakers that keeps the locals coming back.
LOS ANGELES AMERICAN RAG 150 S. La Brea Ave. This fashion emporium stocks a huge selection of both vintage and new clothing. While they have a wide selection of any vintage item you might be looking for, their superb and diverse shoe selection compliments their wide array of featured designers. American Rag stocks everything from Vivienne Westwood and Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, to Seneca Rising and Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent.
American Rag offers a huge selection of clothes.
SATINE 8117 W. 3rd St. Arguably one of the best boutiques in Los Angeles, if not the country, Satine broadcasts a well-edited stock of hard to find designers, including Chloe, Alexander McQueen, Bird, Phillip Lim, and Twenty8Twelve. A favorite among celebrities, this 3rd Street staple boutique is the place to go for interesting, well-made items that you will have and love forever.
THE REFORMATION 143 Ludlow St. The Reformation is known for its handcrafted, reworked vintage as well as original pieces. Every item in the small store feels easy to wear and effortlessly cool. This affordable store is a must stop for anyone who wants an individual look, minus the hassle.
CREATURES OF COMFORT 205 Mulberry St.
WEBSTER 1220 Collins Ave.
With its recently opened New York outpost, Creatures of Comfort continues to deliver a distinct avant-garde aesthetic. Stocking hard to find, smaller labels such as A-Detacher, United Bamboo, Zero Maria Cornejo and Zucca among many others , this store is sure to peak your interest in fashion.
Stocking men’s and women’s clothes along with accessories, the Webster provides customers with a high-end shopping experience, stocking labels such as Charlotte Olympia, Proenza Schouler, and Alexander Wang. Even if the pieces are out of your price range, it is worth the trip to this multi-level Art Deco boutique where Miami street style meets high-fashion.
GEMONIOLA 41 Perry St. Geminola represents reworked vintage at its best. At first glance, this hole in the wall of a store doesn’t look like much. However, every piece of dyed lace, and the variety of flouncy skirts that line the walls are, in themselves, fashion treasures. Although the items are rather overpriced and are more investment pieces than everyday wear, it is well worth the trip to Geminola…even if it is just to windowshop.
Left: The Webster’s art deco appearence is famed in the Miami area. Right: The interior of The Webster has a more modern design than the exterior architecture.
Left: Galliano closes the Spring 2011 couture show. Right: Karlie Kloss opens Dior’s Fall 2011 RTW show.
he recent Dior ready-to-wear show was not the usual “grande fête.” As Karlie Kloss opened the runway in a sweeping black cape at the Musée Rodin on March 4, there was not a single celebrity face present in the front row. Instead, members of the Arnault family, the heads of the luxury conglomerate LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) that owns Dior, bowed their heads in shame due to the recent dismissal of their once revered creative director, John Galliano. Galliano, who did not attend the show, was arrested on February 24 on the charge of “incitement of racial prejudice.” He had made a series of anti-Semitic comments at a Paris café while highly intoxicated (his bloodalcohol level was twice the legal limit). Reportedly, he called a woman a “dirty Jewish face” and wished her dead, saying her boots and thighs were of the “lowest quality.” He then said, “you are so ugly, I don’t want to see you. I am John Galliano!” In a separate incident at the same Paris café, Galliano had been recorded on a cell phone camera saying, “I love Hitler. People like you should be gassed.” Since 1996, when he took over as creative director at Dior, Galliano’s name became synonymous with Parisian “let them eat cake” frothy elegance. Despite his reputation as an egomaniac and a heavy drinker, neither quality ever prevented him from doing his
22 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
BY CORDELIA MESEROW
job. He produced five awe-inspiring collections a year: two for Dior ready-to-wear, one for Dior Haute Couture and two for his independent line. At the end of his tenure with LVMH, it was not his independent line’s poor economic performance or even an occasional mediocre show that cost him his job, but his abhorrent public behavior. When asked about the implications of his comments, Gioia Diliberto, a contributor to the Huffington Post and author of several fashion-based novels, commented that Galliano’s celebrity status enhanced the gravity of the situation. She said that it was his stature that contributed to “the myth of the impossible promise that anyone can be beautiful.” Since he became famous, his extravagant Paris shows were rendered even more breathtaking, his clothes even more beautiful, his models more otherworldly. In his 15 years at Dior, he gathered a “cult of personality” as a designer, which only reinforced his fame and talent to the public. Due to his fame, his shocking comments became headline news and were not limited only to industry tabloids. At Penn, where half of the white student population is Jewish, Galliano’s words were taken seriously. Josh Belfer, the head of Hillel, noted, “There is a Latin phrase, ‘In vino veritas,’ which means ‘in wine, there is truth.’ While he may have been intoxicated when he
made these statements…the words he said expressed opinions that he truly believed, and…it is important to take these statements seriously, as Dior did by dismissing him.” Ms. Diliberto also found Galliano’s departure warranted. She asserted, “Of course he had to be fired. Even though he was drunk, that’s no excuse. It displayed a terribly, ugly side of him. It’s always so surprising when someone is so talented in the arts...[and] that someone sophisticated is anti-Semitic.” Fashion is not supposed to discriminate. Fashion itself does not care whether you are French, American, Jewish, or Catholic. The industry prides itself on promoting clothes as a medium through which individuals can express their creativity and present their best selves to the world, regardless of race, political affiliation, or nationality. Galliano’s remarks contradict this fundamental principle of the industry and wholly negate the idea that any woman can be fashionable and beautiful. Furthermore, his tirade was inconsistent with the image of Dior, and his remarks were disgraceful to the French fashion industry. By dismissing Galliano, Dior sent the message that anti-Semitism is unacceptable. Despite all of the innovative vision Galliano applied to his collections, his recent behavior was extremely shortsighted. Adieu, Monsieur Galliano.
WHAT TO WEAR FOR SUMMER BY MARISSA D’ONOFRIO
At long last, summer is almost here. We all know what that means: the grass gets greener, leaves spring from the trees, and finally, finally, you can retire all of that cumbersome cold weather gear in favor of warm weather apparel. It’s time to trade in your wellies for wayfarers, pullovers for panama hats, and mittens for micro-minis—if you have the legs to pull them off (let’s be honest).
In the interest of guiding my readers to the proverbial fashion promised-land (and saving my eyes from further devastation), I have drawn up a cheat sheet of summer must-haves. From head to toe, top to bottom, I urge you to heed my advice, drop everything, and pick up the following essentials:
This fedora/panama hat hybrid from Eugenia Kim, my favorite hat designer of all time, is just right whether you’re on the beach or on a shopping outing; it’s the perfect topper to a chic summer ensemble.
I’ve been infatuated with “drapey” clothing for as long as I can remember. It’s universally flattering, and wonderfully airy for those hot summer days. This Haute Hippie halter-top is a neutral color and can easily be transitioned from day to night.
Whether you wear these sassy coral shorts with a loose-fitting top (like the one above) or a fitted tank, they are a definite must-have for the summer season. I would wear them during the day, with woven sandals or leather flats (like the Jean Michel pair below) or at night with heels or espadrilles.
Trench coats are the new puffer jackets, haven’t you heard? This Rebecca Taylor Ruffle Duster Trench Coat is one of my favorites for the season. It’s fresh and crisp, yet protective. Think sexy Nancy Drew…
A feminine take on the oh-so-trendy oxford fad, these Jean Michel flats with sweet lacey cutouts are both versatile and unique. I can almost guarantee that they will fly off the shelves.
Hat: Max Panama Fedora, Eugenia Kim, $253. Top: Drape Front Halter Top, Haute Hippie, $225. Shorts: Love and Understanding Shorts, sass & bide, $275. Coat: Ruffle Duster Trench Coat, Rebecca Taylor, $525. Shoes: Alana Cutout Flats, Jean-Michel Cazabat, $265. All fromShopBop.com.
Heavy Metal accessories
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DENIS O'FLYNN O'BRIEN STYLED BY SHAYNA MONAHEMI AND MARSHA LOW BEAUTY AND HAIR BY CHLOE HECKMAN modeled by emma baiada '14
On Emma: All Jewelry, stylist’s own.
GET THE LOOK BY CHRISTINA STEWART
GOLD GODDESS Spruce up a simple outfit by layering your favorite jewelry. Mix a few basic items with one statement piece, or go all out (like we did) with multiple statement pieces! Tell your story through your clothes: combine your family heirloom with that necklace from your favorite boutique. Not only will you look marvelous, but you’ll also have something to talk about. Layer these magnificent timepieces from top to bottom along your neck; this will create a vertical line that will center your features, making your face seem more symmetrical and highlighting those gorgeous cheekbones and jawbones!
FEATHER FEROCITY Complete an intricate shirt with this feathery creation. You will fly through the crowds in style. Feathers work with jewelry along with clothes, so take advantage of their light, airy quality! Include a pair of strappy shoes like we have to balance this sprightliness with flair. Do not be afraid to pair perplexing tops with equally exciting jewelry; the more the merrier!
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REBEL YELL Get in touch with your daring side and make your eyes sparkle with these rhinestones encased in black. If you have dark features, you’ll boost your intensity, and if you have a lighter complexion, you’ll shine even more! Match these diamonds with a dark corset-style top like we have or with any outfit that will enhance the edginess of this look. Throw on your favorite pair of lace-up boots to finish!
NATURAL BEAUTY Big beads, earthy colors, and soft, neutral tones. Prints are back in this season so if you are feeling daring, couple this array of beads with an African-themed top. Hair up is a must: you need to show off your necklace ensemble! Add some snakelike bracelets to enhance the natural feel. Remember, with this look, shapes are key: think circles, cylinders, triangles, whatever you have in your closet!
CANDY CREATION Use your own creative genius to fashion this lighthearted look! Save money and have fun by gathering colorful beads and stringing together your own design! You will give off the playful vibe while being entirely innovative. Add an intriguing brooch, like our blue flower, to further encapsulate this fun aura.
EMERALD ALLURE This array of bracelets will jazz up any outfit. Layer thin leather and gold strappy ones on top of bigger ones for a geometrical, unique effect. Pick any gorgeous color (we’ve chosen emerald) and intersperse it among your other great pieces. Include some funky rings to complete your style!
SPRING FLING FASHION You know it’s Flingtime when fashion suddenly means lacrosse pinnies and fanny packs and there’s more neon to be found in the Quad than at a ski resort circa 1985. In 2011, we saw everything from the standard plastic sunglasses and brightly colored tanktops to neon fanny pack/hat hybrids known as “capsacs.” However, it appears that not every Penn student hears the word “Fling” and feels that primal urge to don their frattiest lax pinnie and fifteen accessories from American Apparel. The best way to stand out in the rowdy Quad crowds
BY KAYLA FUCHS
during Fling? Look stylish. To anyone who managed to look put-together during Fling: we tip our (backwards neon trucker) hats to you. And to everyone who went for the traditional fling gear: yeah, you looked great too... and this year’s shirts were as fun and clever as always. In case you were too busy Flinging to notice what anyone was wearing, we’ve got you covered right here as we showcase our favorite Fling apparel and some of the best looks to grace the Quad this Fling.
00 THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 31
Penn Fashion Week Didn’t make it to every Penn Fashion Week event? Read our diary and get caught up on what you missed!
BY SHELLEY TANG
Monday: Penn Fashion Week Opening Night: Putting Your Best Face Forward The big black banners bearing a single red “f ” had been seen hanging proudly on many a fraternity on Locust Walk. Bags full of BCBG sunglasses, coupons, and goodies had been stuffed, waiting for this moment. Now, in Houston Hall’s Hall of Flags, the finishing touches were being done- a smoothing out of the Ann Taylor’s table with its glistening accessories and a rack hung with their new spring line of clothing, the cameras being adjusted, makeup being set out and irons heating up. What looked like two hundred girls were anxiously crowded outside the lower doors of Hall of Flags- they had heard about the free gift bags and raffles to the first 100 girls to enter and they wanted in. As the doors were pulled open, they scrambled into the hall to have their hair and makeup done before getting a mini photo-shoot. Between 7 and 9 pm, the room was a flurry of activity as girls tried on clothes, got glamoured up by professionals, and walked away giddy with raffle prizes like designer bags and clothes. It was clear that the 5th annual Penn Fashion Week was going to be a success from this opening night. This week is special. As Erin Armendinger, managing director of the JHBRC, put it, Penn Fashion Week “cuts across the College and Wharton” and offers an eclectic mix of the business and creative sides of the fashion industry.
Tuesday: The Michelle Markup with NYU Professor David Yermack Professional athletes earn millions, sometimes even hundreds of millions of dollars on endorsements. And surprisingly, NYU Professor David Yermack thinks they are underpaid. Even more surprisingly, Professor Yermack believes that Michelle Obama has more of an influence on what clothing choices consumers make than people who are paid to endorse certain products. Don’t believe him? I have to admit I was skeptical at first. But after his presentation, I am now a believer… A believer that Michelle Obama is the single most influential women in fashion today. Why, you ask? Well, from the 13 biggest events that she has attended thus far in her husband’s presidency (such as for Election Day, inauguration, and the state dinner), the 29 companies involved with the clothing she wore saw a net gain of 2.6 billion dollars! This gain translates to over 20 times what the most heavily paid celebrity endorsements for top athletes like Tiger Woods, Michael Schumacher, and David Beckham have created for their respective companies. What’s the secret for Michelle’s incredible influence on fashion? Besides building the careers of many young, recently established designers like Thakoon Panchgul, Yermack claims that she wears a lot of different brands. She mixes both American and international high-end pieces with high-street and also brands, such as J. Crew and GAP. Now we know…Michelle Obama is fashion’s biggest icon.
Wednesday: Food Branding and Retail Panel Upon walking into Wednesday’s panel, I wondered to myself, how does food branding fit into fashion week? Well, apparently it does, according to panelists: Ellen Yin, of Fork Restaurant, Marc Vetri, of Vetri, Osteria, and Amis fame and Greg Root of Pod, among others. Although initially focused on detailing the growth of their businesses, the panelists used the forum to emphasize that the number one rule of retail is to have a uniform vision from the beginning. Like a clothing brand, the vision of a restaurant is to be easily felt by the customer and easily communicated to the staff. As Greg Root said, “Keep to the culture, not the short run gains.” Success in retail is based off this foundation.
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FASHION\thewalk Thursday: Vera Wang and William Fung Talk Wow, I actually saw Vera Wang speak about her life for over an hour, a mere 3 rows in front of me, a mere 127 feet from me, a 5 second spring away, 1 large leap away (I exaggerate slightly but still, I was unbelievably close). I still can’t believe it: I can’t believe that she became a fashion designer starting in her forties, I can’t believe that she wanted to be a Olympic figure skater but failed, I can’t believe how genuine and modest she is about the fashion empire that she has built, and most of all, I can’t believe her clarity of purpose and value in life. Perhaps it seems odd or seemingly ridiculous that I knew she was just as incredible of person as she was a designer when she first stepped across the stage. She walked, or more accurately, seemed to glide across the stage, in a refined outfit in black (her design I dare to presume)- roomy, diaphanous trousers and a simple yet elegantly cut top with heels. Her posture was tall and confident while her signature long, sleek hair moved with her. I would have thought she was 30, not 60, had she not have said differently. But really, she just had this presence that permeated the room. As she and William Fung talked about failure, you got the sense that they really had experienced it and truly felt like it was a great learning experience. Vera talked about moving to Paris with her then figure-skater boyfriend, attending class at the Sorbonne, working at Yves Saint Laurent in college, being approached by a Vogue editor and deciding to work at Vogue for the next 17 years, then finally ending up at Ralph Lauren. She talks about how she always spoke honestly about her opinion and how it got her as far as it did. From her talk, it is refutable why her influence is respected well-beyond the fashion world because she prioritizes people over money, respect over arrogance, genius over following the trends. Vera, it was truly a pleasure and a great honor. William Fung, a personal friend of Vera, runs the supply chain management of many of the greatest design houses and brands. He talked intensively on the emerging Asian markets as the new target consumer markets and the integration of quality assurance with supplying and production of goods. He was able to offer more of the logistical insight of fashion retailing that Vera missed from her design perspective and was an inspiration to hear as well.
Friday: Entrepreneurship & Networking Reception: It’s not about what you know, it’s about who you know. While I disagree a bit with the last part (after all, why do we shell out 50K a year for a Penn education otherwise), I agree 100 percent that fashion is a business where your connections matter immensely. Enter… networking reception at POD. The speakers included Pialy Aditya, the President and Co-Founder of Mintbox, Craig Schroeder and Aaron Pierce of Commonwealth Proper and John Lee, owner of UBIQ. They spoke about how to begin delving into the fashion industry and how to network with the people in it. Their presentation emphasized the importance of self-presentation and image, as well as specific knowledge of the industry when trying to break into the biz. And the best part of the presentation… munching on the free snacks and sipping the drinks specials…thanks POD!
Saturday: Reverie- Fashion Show: On Saturday night, Dzine2Show, Wharton Retail Club, the WALK and DSP all came together to present their runway show Reverie, featuring both student designs and professional apparel from local lines around Philadelphia. Studio CL of Philadelphia also contributed to the show with hair and makeup: long blond extensions for all the models that was plaited in a single braid and brightlycolored eyeliner under the eyes. The show was FANTASTIC. Simply and absolutely fantastic. The show began with the professional apparel, which featured labels, such as Madewell and Ann Taylor. Using this opportunity to showcase their new spring lines, the designers presented their unique, individual flairs. However, the show remained cohesive with feathery skirts, neutral jackets and warm colors tying up the collections. Then, came the student designers. Designer Johanna showed her talent in gorgeous gowns with strapless, bustier tops and corset ribbing. Next, designer Lisa Zhu exhibited her talent for attention to detail by showcasing a loud asymmetrical pink dress with a huge green bow on the back. Although,each of the designers sparkled in their own way, Vivian Chen presented the most uniform collection. She featured risqué, edgy outfits in see-through fabrics with daring hemlines as well as making use of tough textures paired with simple leggings. The models wore the designs with class and grace, culminating an absolutely amazing fifth annual Penn Fashion Week. CONGRAGULATIONS to all in involved for their momentous, creative efforts and for the huge turnout and major success! I know I personally cannot wait for PFW next year.
WALTZ INTO SUMMER with muted hues and soft silhouettes. Modeled by dancers Jackie Gage ’12 of Strictly Funk and Ariella Freund ’14 of Sparks Dance Company. Photographed by Alex Remnick. Styled by Anna Christofferson, Erica Sachse and Carlyn MehaffeyCoy. Beauty by Chloe Heckman. Hair by Alexey Kats and Assistant Matt Macinnes of the Studio CL.
On Jackie: Blouse, Barneys CO-OP, $160; pants, Vagabond, $64; belt, stylist’s own.
On Jackie: Top, Barneys CO-OP, $160; skirt, Helmut Lang, Barneys, $230.
On Jackie: Leotard, model’s own; pants, stylist’s own; necklace, stylist’s own.
On Ariella: Blouse, American Apparel, $58; corset, stylistâ€™s own.
On Jackie: Dress, Opening Ceremony, Barneys, $920; necklace, stylistâ€™s own.
On Ariella: Blouse, American Apparel, $68; pants, Robert Rodriguez, Shopbop, $295.
On Ariella: Top, stylist’s own; necklace, stylist’s own; shorts, stylist’s own.
Brilliantly Affordable Beauty
HAIR | SKIN | NAILS | All services provided by supervised students. | Chestnut Street at 40th | www.JeanMadelineInstitutes.com
BY ALAINA URBAHNS
Living on Penn’s campus without a car, as most students do, can sometimes make getting around Philly a little bit problematic. Yes, there are cabs, but for at least $10 each way to get downtown, I’ll pass, thank you. And of course there’s also online shopping, but who wants to pay a $5 shipping fee for one tube of pick-me-up lipstick? Enter Blue Mercury… Penn’s best-kept beauty secret. Sure, CVS has some amazing products (Burt’s Bees tinted lip balm, anyone?) but shopping for foundation and other products can be tricky because you can’t try before you buy. This makes Blue Mercury the perfect on-campus option. Here are just a few of their best products:
Caudalíe Crushed Cabernet Scrub: After trying Caudalíe a few years back during a summer in France, it has become one of my favourite products. All of their products are grape-based and organic, but definitely not boring. This scrub is particularly effective, but also has a really luxurious feel.
Mario Badescu Drying Lotion: Who doesn’t know that feeling of waking up with a giant blemish right in the middle of your face (preferably the night before a big event…)? Dab this on at night over the troublesome spot and wake up with a clear complexion!
3 4 5 2
NARS Pure Matte Lipstick in Bangkok: Usually, matte lipstick is extremely drying and looks like something you fished out of your mother or grandmother’s beauty box. Not so with this NARS product, which goes on smoothly but doesn’t have a hint of shine. The nude colors are particularly great to pair with a smoky eye for an evening out.
Clinique Moisture Surge Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15: This is the perfect all-in-one product: moisturizer, sunscreen, and foundation, conveniently available in one easy daily application. Most college students don’t need full foundation anyway, since it usually looks heavy on younger skin and is difficult to apply in a rush. This sheer tinted moisturizer camouflages any imperfections or breakouts and provides sunscreen, which is essential to keep young skin looking younger for longer.
Frédéric Fakkai Hair Products: Hair care is another product where the extra splurge is definitely worth it. This is especially true for conditioner since cheaper products often contain harsh ingredients and lots of sulfates (the ingredient that makes suds.) Try the Protein Rx Reparative Conditioner to heal dry ends and prevent future damage.
Tocca Candele de viaggio Set: Candles are definitely one product where the selection at CVS just can’t compete. CVS’ selection of scents is mostly artificial, comes in cheap containers and is oddly florescent. But this set from Blue Mercury is the perfect gift to yourself or someone else; it contains five small candles in Tocca’s best-selling perfume scents, each fitted perfectly in elegant glass vases. THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 45
THE WALK IS IN YOUR PLACE BY THE WALK STAFF
RAchel tashjian Where are you from? Greenville, Delaware by way of Orange County. What is your major? I’m a double major in English/Creative Writing and Art History. What do you do for fun? I study nineteenth century architecture, so I could spend hours walking around Philadelphia or in the Art Museum. Also, I horseback ride, with batons, which are usually on fire. What was your inspiration when decorating your room or what vibe were you going for? I use my domestic space as a way to reconcile my WASP upbringing with the bathroom at CBGB. This means watercolors of my childhood vacation home in Nantucket across from love notes written in lipstick on the mirror, and a desk chair draped in lime green rabbit fur. We noticed you have a great wardrobe - who are your favorite designers or whose style do you admire? Annie Hall meets Brigitte Bardot meets Jem and her incomparable Holograms. To that end, I love Sonia Rykiel, 3.1 Philip Lim, Dries Van Noten, Tsumori Chisato, and whatever your brother is wearing. Favorite quote or expression? “Sometimes I fuck with my Timbs on.” -Kanye West, Twitter, Fall 2010.
Rachel’s room can’t really be described in a few words. It’s just full of personality – her personality. Her closet contains one of the most bizarre and fantastic shoe collections on campus.
46 THE WALK / SUMMER 2011
Leah Pellegrini Leah draws inspiration from artists like Andy Warhol, making her bedroom colorful and whimsical. Some of her favorite pieces are her New Yorker magazine cover collection and six-foot orangutan painting.
What is your major? Communication. What are your hobbies? I’m a writer and a stylist for The WALK. I’m also an obsessive journal keeper, doodler, baker, and music lover. What was your inspiration when you were decorating your room? I’m completely obsessed with Andy Warhol. My room is filled with his prints and other pop art in general. Tim Walker is another big inspiration — I’ve always wanted my bedroom to feel like the colorful, whimsical, and intricate sets that he designs and photographs. What do you like most about your room? My shelf of quirky trinkets above my desk. Each one is attached to some sort of memory or longtime collection. I also love my 6-foot orangutan painting, done by a friend from high school. It’s the first thing most people notice when they walk in my room. Can you explain the New Yorker magazine cover collection? Why did you start collecting, and how long have you been collecting them? My Dad has subscribed to the New Yorker for as long as I can remember. I have always admired the clever and ever-changing cover art. I began collecting the covers in middle school, wanting to collage the walls of my room at home with them — I haven’t stopped collecting them since! Who or what are your fashion inspirations? Erin Wasson, Carrie Bradshaw, and Paris. Also, thrift stores and random people I pass on the street.
ALI LEVINE What is your major? English.
Ali’s room has a bohemian vibe and is full of memorabilia from her travels. Her favorite shoes, a pair of strappy pink Manolo’s, express the same love of color and adventure displayed in her interior décor.
Where are you from? Bergen County, NJ. What are your hobbies? Writing, Italian food, my dogs, gymnastics and dance, and travel. What was your inspiration when you were decorating your room or what vibe were you going for? I love to travel and I was inspired by the many places I’ve visited with my family and while studying abroad last semester. I was never really going for one particular look - I just pick up odds and ends as I travel and then find a way to blend them all together. I’m always looking for bright colors, silver, or gold. The room is very eclectic - I’d even call it bohemian chic (especially because of the shag beanbag chair). We noticed you have a range of Venetian masks on your walls. Do those have a history? All the decorations in my room are from somewhere I’ve traveled to that I’ve really loved. The masks on my walls are from Venice. The evil eyes and hamsa’s hanging by my windows are from the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, Turkey. The camels hanging on the other window are from Israel. My jewelry box is from Vietnam’s famous Ben Thanh Market. The animal statue in the fireplace is from a safari in Africa. My bedding and pillows are from Martha’s Vineyard (my favorite summer spot) and the big gold and silver stars and the sun above my bed are from a hippie shop near Camp Laurel in Maine. What is your dream job? To be the head writer for 30 Rock or SNL / becoming the next Tina Fey. THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 47
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