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SOUTH AFRICA SET TO ENTER GLOBAL TOURISM TOP 20 | SA is ranked among the top five countries in the world in respect of tourism growth and is on its way to achieving its goal of becoming one of the top 20 destinations in the world by 2020 By STAFF REPORTER ACCORDING to Minister for Tourism Marthinus van Schalkwyk, South Africa achieved strong growth in tourism during the first quarter of this year. “South Africa has become an exceptional global destination, with a tourist arrivals growth of 10.2% in 2012,” said Van Schalkwyk. “The arrivals growth consistently tracked higher than the worldwide average and it has put South Africa firmly on track to reach its target of being one of the 20 top destinations in the world by 2020. Van Schalkwyk said the figures confirmed that SA’s investment in tourism promotion was bearing fruit. Tourism contributes 2,9% directly and 9% overall to the country’s GDP. A strong growth in the number of tourists from Europe during the first quarter after a long period of stagnation was recorded. The number of German tourists grew 17%, France 14% and Italy 17%, while the UK grew 3% off a high base. The growth in tourist numbers from emerging markets in the first quarter of the year, according to figures provided by Statistics South Africa was equally strong, with Chinese tourism registering a 37,4% increase, India 22%, Nigeria 22% and Ghana 46%. A total of 9 188 368 international tourists visited South Africa in 2012; 10,2% more than the 8 339 354 tourists who visited in 2011. Particularly strong growth was recorded in 2012 from Asia (up 33,7% on the figures recorded in 2011), driven by growth from China and India, and Central and South

UK Immigration • UK Visas • Permits • EEA visas • Residency • Citizenship • Appeals • Sponsorship Licences South African Immigration

INSIDE:

p9 | Critics of SA expats: trapped in New South African rainbow rhetoric? p10 | Move over cronut, step aside duffin, the vetsister is here to stay

p14 | Travel: By Kombi into the Swazi hills

| ESSENCE OF ELEPHANTS: Beating almost 43,000 other entries from across 96 countries, South Africa’s Greg du Toit was named Wildlife Photographer of the Year for his photo of elephants, which is on display at the Natural History Museum along with award-winning images by a further six South Africans. Read more on page 6.

America (up 37,0%). Among the top ten South African hotspots favoured by tourists are Kruger National Park in Mpumalanga, Durban beach front, Soweto, Johannesburg, the Garden Route, Table Mountain, Robben Island, the Winelands and the Cape Peninsula. Wildlife remains the biggest draw card, with the big five - lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo - the biggest attraction. However, travellers from neighbouring states including Botswana, Mozambique, Lesotho and Swaziland, view South Africa more as a shopping destination and are less interested in the sights.

South Africa is also increasingly focusing on domestic tourism and has injected R25 million into the ‘ Sho’t Left’ campaign targeting young and trendy South Africans to encourage them to explore their own country. The Sho’t left campaign was unveiled at the launch of Tourism month in September by Van Schalkwyk and offers a number of affordable holiday packages. Local tourists are said to contribute more than R100 billion a year to the country’s economy, while international visitors added R84 billion in direct and indirect revenue. Business tourism is a must-have

South Africa is targeting business tourists despite them making up just 5% of foreign arrivals to the country. They, on average, spend up to three times more than tourists arriving on leisure purposes. To date, South Africa has secured 88 bids for major events between 2013 and 2017; this is expected to boost the South African economy over the next five years by R2,6 billion. Business visitors to the country, including those attending conferences and exhibitions, and on incentive trips, contributed 4%, or R2,3 billion, to South Africa’s total tourism revenue. -- Media Club South Africa

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Half of South African planes flying illegally | 58% of South Africa’s aircraft do not have airworthy certificates Editor: Heather Walker Production: Brett Petzer & Nicol Grobler Registered office: Unit C7, Commodore House, Battersea Reach, London SW18 1TW. Tel: 0845 456 4910 Email: editor@thesouthafrican.com Website: www.thesouthafrican.com Directors: P Atherton, A Laird, J Durrant, N Durrant and R Phillips Printed by: Mortons of Horncastle Ltd

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by STAFF REPORTER IT’S probably a good thing MarieAntoinette lost her head when she did because I’m not quite sure how she might have rephrased her contempt for the poor in light of the current craze for so-called portmanteau bakery. Somehow “let them eat duffins” doesn’t have quite the same ring to it. Of the 12,500 aircraft registered in the South African Civil Aviation Authority register, only 42.4% (5,300) have been issued with a Certificate of Airworthiness, a reply to a Democratic Alliance parliamentary question by Greg Krumbock, Shadow Deputy Minister of Transport, has revealed. According to the Civil Aviation Act, no aircraft may be legally

operated without a Certificate of Airworthiness. This means that a huge number of aircraft are flying illegally. Krumbock said, “The issuing of Airworthiness Certificates has been a source of great contention between the Civil Aviation Authority and the airline industry over the last eight years.” He said the airline industry had expressed dissatisfaction with the manner in which the Civil Aviation Authority managed the renewal process of Airworthiness Certificates. The DA said that the Civil Aviation Authority has allegedly been operating without a General Manager for Air Safety Operations for quite some time. “The DA will submit followup questions to the Minister of Transport, Dipuo Peters, to

establish whether aircrafts without certificates are still in operation, why they are not being issued with certificates of airworthiness and what steps have been taken to assist them in obtaining certificates of airworthiness,” Krumbock stated.

“We will also, as a matter of urgency, request that the Acting Director of Civil Aviation, Poppy Khoza, together with the representatives of the airline industry meet with the Portfolio Committee of Transport to seek a solution to this problem.”

London School of Economics hosts annual Steve Biko Memorial Lecture on Thursday | Marking the 50th anniversary of the AU, this year’s lecture focuses on 21st Century New PanAfricanist Consciousness THE STEVE Biko Foundation in association with the London School of Economics and Political Science presents the Steve Biko Memorial Lecture. The Steve Biko Memorial Lecture Europe is an initiative of the South African-based Steve Biko Foundation. The 2013 Lecture takes place during Black History Month in the United Kingdom. Described as a resuscitative moment, the Lecture is an opportunity to explore the inextricable link between the individual and society. The lecture is also an occasion to celebrate triumphs over inequality and to examine the importance of identity in the twenty-first century. In keeping with the tradition of

Biko, the Lecture focuses on issues of culture, identity and social change. Adama Samassékou, a Malian national, will deliver the Lecture. He is the founder and former president of the African Academy of Languages, an official organ of the African Union; president of International Council for Philosophy and Human Sciences as well as the MAAYA Network. He has previously served as president for Mali and Africa as a whole, of the Peoples’ Movement for Human Rights Education, Malian Minister of Education and spokesperson for the Government of Mali. Given that 2013 marks the 50th anniversary of the formation of the Organization of African Unity; his topic for the Lecture is ‘The Social-Cultural Foundation of the

21st Century New Pan-Africanist Consciousness.’ This event, hosted by the LSE, is free and open to all with no ticket required. Entry is on a first come, first served basis. For any queries email

events@lse.ac.uk or call 020 7955 6043. RSVP: (+27)11 403 0310 or via email: tsipuye@sbf.org.za Date: Thursday 24 October 2013. Time: 6.30-8pm. Venue: Hong Kong Theatre, Clement House, LSE.

24 Oct 2013 6.30pm Celebration of music and song with Aviva Pelham and talented UCT alumni. Celebrated South African singer and UCT alumnus Aviva Pelham and the University of Cape Town Trust (UK Registered Charity 803042) invite you to join them for a celebration of music and song featuring talented UCT alumni from the South African College of Music. Tickets: £30 each (Refreshments will be served before and after the

performance). Students: £20 each Aviva Pelham is a lead ambassador for the UCT Opera School Fundraising Campaign. UCT is enormously proud that many of these students now perform on the world stage. UCT’s challenge is to find funding which will sustain the UCT Opera School for the next decade and beyond. Please join them for an enchanting evening with some of UCT’s most gifted alumni. All proceeds from ticket sales for this event will go direct to the Opera School and will enable more gifted young people to follow their dreams. South Africa House, Trafalgar Square, London. RSVP: uct.alumni.uk@tecres.net to reserve a place and request payment instructions.

24 Oct 2013 Celebrating the Life and Legacy of Madiba in Song: A fundraiser concert for Voices of South Africa Educational Project (www. amazwiomzansiafrica.com). Performers: Njabulo Madlala – baritone, Pamela Nomvete – actress, William Vann – piano, Filipa Van Eck – soprano, Sarah-Jane Lewis -soprano, Sipho Fubesi – tenor. Joyce Moholoagae – mezzosoprano. At the home of Sir Vernon & Lady Ellis, 49 Queens Gate Terrace London, SW7 5PN 7 for 7.30 pm. A contribution of £35 for the concert wine and canapés r £60 (where a £25 donation goes towards supper) would be appreciated. Booking is essential. To reserve your tickets please email: Vernon@vef.org.uk.

Until 26 Oct 2013 Black Jesus: This stunning new play by Anders Lustgarten, one of the UK’s leading political playwrights, receives its world premiere at Finborough Theatre in Earl’s Court, playing a four week season from Tuesday 1 October to Saturday 26 October. Black Jesus unpicks the political complexities of Zimbabwe through the devastating personal journeys of two very different people, both shaped and scarred by one of Africa’s most complex and notorious regimes.. Finborough Theatre, 118 Finborough Road. Box Office 0844 847 1652. Tuesday, 1 October – Saturday, 26 October 2013. www. finboroughtheatre.co.uk For more events: www.thesouthafrican.com/events

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Our Team Each week we profile one of the many writers who contribute to The South African.

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Susan Miller is a London-based freelance writer, sub-editor and editor. Originally from South Africa, she holds a BA Honours Degree in English and History from the University of Cape Town. Susan’s latest articles for TSA.com: Jane Raphaely Unedited Team SA at the London Olympics: Bridget Hartley | Kayaking Dream of Nelson Mandela’s Children’s Hospital nears reality


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| Africa’s 2013 governance figures and rankings (PDF, Mo Ibrahim Foundation - moibrahimfoundation.org)

SA fifth for governance in Africa on Ibrahim Index | But US$5million prize for Africa’s best leader will not be awarded this year for lack of candidates

by STAFF REPORTER SOUTH Africa remains in fifth place in the 2013 Ibrahim Index of African Governance, having improved its overall governance score from 70.7 to 71.3 out of a possible 100 since the index was first launched in 2007, with data covering the period 2000 onwards. The top 10 African countries for governance, according to the latest index, are (scores in brackets): Mauritius (82.9), Botswana (77.6), Cape Verde (76.7), Seychelles (75), South Africa (71.3), Namibia (69.5), Ghana (66.8), Tunisia (66), Lesotho (61.9), and Senegal (61). The 2013 version of the index was released on Monday by the London-based Mo Ibrahim Foundation, which makes information on governance quality in Africa freely accessible in the interests of good governance on the continent. The index uses a methodology specially developed by a team from the Kennedy School of Government at Harvard University in the US, with the help of an advisory council of African academics. It measures country and regional performance across four main categories - safety and rule of law; participation and human rights; sustainable economic opportunity; and human development - breaking

down into 14 sub-categories and 88 component indicators. South Africa is one of eight countries to have remained consistently in the index’s top 10 since 2000 - along with Botswana, Cape Verde, Ghana, Mauritius, Namibia, Seychelles and Tunisia - although its ranking in the index has dropped by one place. The country’s overall scores of 71.3 (out of a possible 100) is higher than the African average of 51.6, as well as the regional southern African average of 59.2. South Africa ranks its highest (3rd out of 52 countries, with a score of 73.1) in the category of participation and human rights - but has recorded its biggest decline in this category since 2000, dropping two places in the rankings and shedding 4.6 points in its score. The country ranks its lowest (7th, scoring 69.8) for safety and rule of law, where it has dropped one place, shedding 3.2 points, since 2000. For sustainable economic opportunity, South Africa ranks 5th with a score of 65.1, dropping one place but improving its score by 5.8 points since 2000. And for human development, the country ranks 6th with 77.4 points, down by two places but up by 4.4 points since 2000. Overall, the 2013 index shows that Africa has made progress

in governance in the last 13 years, with 94% of Africans living in a country that is better governed than in 2000. (The 6% of people living with governance has deteriorated since 2000 live in Guinea-Bissau, Madagascar, Eritrea, Somalia, Libya and Mali.) In addition, according to the index, all African countries have improved in human development since 2000, and 85.7% of Africans live in a country that has improved in sustainable economic opportunity. However, only 45.7% of Africans live in a country whose performance in participation and human rights has improved, and a mere 21.1% live in a country where safety and the rule of law has improved since 2000. Southern Africa the top performing region Southern Africa remains the top performing region in the 2013 index, with eight out of 12 countries in the region scoring above the continental average overall, five countries ranking in the top 10 and just one country, Zimbabwe, ranking in the bottom 10. The region has increased its overall score by 4.3 points since 2000, with improvements in participation and human rights (+1.4), sustainable economic opportunity (+6.7) and human development (+9.9), marred only by a decline in safety and rule of law (-0.7).


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Satoa Travel Awards recognise the local industry’s best at bbar by STAFF REPORTER

Satoa, a non-profit organisation that promotes travel to Southern Africa and the Indian Ocean, held its annual Travel Awards on 19 September at bbar in Victoria. The winners included Isandlwana Lodge (Best Hotel 20 Rooms or Less), Grootbos Private Nature Reserve (Best Hotel 20 Rooms or More), Thanda Tented Camp (Best Safari Experience) and Tzaneen Country Lodge and Nuarro Eco Lodge (Responsible Tourism). The organisers expressed gratitude for the generous support of One & Only and Cox and Kings UK as well as to bbar Bar & Restaurant for the fantastic food and attentive service.

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Oscar-winning South African director’s film ‘Ender’s Game’ opens in British cinemas | South African directors are stamping their mark on Hollywood with science

fiction blockbusters. Hot on the heels of ‘District 9’ director Neill Blomkamp’s movie ‘Elysium’, starring Matt Damon, Jodie Foster and Sharlto Copley, comes ‘Tsotsi’ director Gavin Hood’s ‘Ender’s Game’, opening in UK on 25 October by ROBERTA MILLER SCIENCE fiction action film Ender’s Game, set to be released in the United Kingdom and Ireland on Friday 25 October, is directed and written by South African-born Gavin Hood, who is best known for his Oscarwinning film Tsotsi. South African directors are certainly stamping their mark on Hollywood with science fiction blockbusters. District 9 director Neill Blomkamp’s movie Elysium, starring Matt Damon, Jodie Foster and Sharlto Copley, topped the box offices on their opening weekends in the UK and US this summer. Ender’s Game is an adaptation of the 1985 novel by American author Orson Scott Card, starring British teen actor Asa Butterfield as Andrew ‘Ender’ Wiggin. The impressive supporting cast includes Harrison Ford, Ben Kingsley and Abigail Breslin. The story is set in the future on earth. Following a horrific alien war, an international fleet maintains a special space academy for the world’s most talented children, taking them

| Gavin Hood

away from their families on earth at a young age. Viewed as a gifted child, Ender Wiggin is sent to the Battle School where youngsters are trained as the next military leaders to fight another aggressive alien invasion. Gavin Hood is a screenwriter, actor, director and producer who studied law at the University of Witwatersrand before enrolling at UCLA in the US to study film. In creating this film, Hood drew on his own experiences of being drafted into the South African army at the age of 17 during apartheid. Hood believes the story of

Ender’s Game is about young people finding themselves in a place they are not emotionally ready for. “And in that place, they have to find their moral sense,” he said. “As a writer, you look at this story and you go, I’ve got this super cool environment. How can we realise it? But, at the same time, I’ve got an incredible character journey, which is kind of unusual. Usually a big spectacle movie is just good versus evil and good somehow has to defeat evil. I guess I grew up in a country [South Africa] where good versus evil was not. How do you examine your own potential for evil?” Hood said in an interview with Firstshowing. net. “That’s what attracted me to Ender’s Game. I read it as an adult. I’d already spent time in the military. I went, Wow. This book really gets that feeling of what it’s like to be taken from your home, forced into an environment where people start to celebrate the part of your personality that’s maybe not so cool, which is the capacity to really lash out. And I just realised

| The poster that has South African sci-fi fans in tense anticipation: Ender’s training academy floats above a threatened Earth

this is what happens with Ender. He says in the movie, ‘That’s what they want from us. Choose violence, you win’. Man, that’s horrible.” In an interview with Empire, Butterfield said working on Ender’s Game was ‘really fun’ but wearing a harness for nine hours a day was difficult. “By the end of the day you’re glad to get out of them. It’s really tiring staying up there. And the chafing… it’s exactly as you might imagine. All through rehearsals we would spend an hour each day on the wires. And

then we spent a month and a half shooting the scenes. There was plenty of time flying around. “[The battleroom uniform is] called a flash suit. It looks incredible, but wearing it was pretty uncomfortable, because they were tight and thick and didn’t give you much movement. It’s like wearing three wetsuits and then putting on body armour over that. You wouldn’t want to wear one for more than an hour,” said Butterfield. Ender’s Game will be released across South Africa on 6 December 2013.


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SA wildlife photographers take home lions’ share | Seven South African photographers have taken top prizes in this year’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition and will go on display at the Natural History Museum in London by STAFF REPORTER SOUTH African photographer Greg du Toit was only the biggest winner of a strong South African contingent at the prestigious Wildlife awards. The Rainbow Nation boasts spectacular wildlife - so it’s not surprising we also have a large collection of awardwinning wildlife photographers. Even so, however, the size of the win points to a flourishing local photography industry. Six other South Africans won their categories, were runners-up, or won commendations. Here are their images and the stories behind them. Sticky Situation Isak Pretorius Winner, Bird Behaviour South Africa’s Isak Pretorius was the winner of the Bird Behaviour category. In May, the seafaring lesser noddies head for land to breed. Their arrival on the tiny island of Cousine in the Seychelles coincides with peak web size for the red-legged golden orb-web spiders. The female spiders, which can grow to the size of a hand, create colossal conjoined webs up to 1.5 metres in diameter in which the tiny males gather. These are woven from extremely strong

silk and are suspended up to six metres above the ground, high enough to catch passing bats and birds, though it’s flying insects that the spiders are after. Noddies regularly fly into the webs. Even if they struggle free, the silk clogs up their feathers so they can’t fly. God’s Ivory Brent Stirton Winner, Wildlife Photojournalist Award. Brent Stirton’s photo essay about the rhino horn trade was runner-up in the Wildlife Photojournalist Award category of last year’s competition. This year he moved his focus to the ivory trade and won the category, which is a special award for a memorable story told in six images. Since the ban on the international commercial trade in ivory in 1989, hundreds of thousands of elephants have been slaughtered and many millions of dollars’ worth of illegal ivory traded. Much of this fuels a market that has largely escaped criticism: religion. Whether Catholic, Buddhist or Muslim, worshippers manifest their devotion through ivory carvings. These icons are blessed by monks and priests and gifted

between heads of state. No ivory-trafficking kingpin has ever been caught, and this centuriesold trade continues unabated. Every piece of ivory bought marks the death of an elephant. Brent worked with a writer for three years collecting the visual evidence for a story for National Geographic, describing it as 90 per cent investigation and 10 per cent photography – and an epiphany for him. One of the judges,Steve Winter commented, “We often see the images of slaughtered elephants but we do not see the story beyond the carcasses. Telling the story behind the killing is our obligation as wildlife photojournalists. Brent does a masterful job.” Curiosity and the cat Hannes Lochner Joint Runner-up, Animal Portraits Hannes Lochner has spent nearly five years perfecting his remote wireless technology to photograph intimate portraits of wild animals, by night especially. His photo ‘Lion by Lightning’, shot in the Kalahari Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, was runnerup in the category Animals in their Environment at last year’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year

| TOP LEFT | Hannes Lochner’s ‘Curiosity and the Cat’ was joint runner-up in the Animal Portraits section

competition. For this photo, he set up a camera near a waterhole in Kgalagadi, hiding it from lions especially, which might play with it or carry it off. On this particular evening, he was settled in his vehicle, just as the sun was setting and the dust in the air creates a special kind of Kalahari light, when a pride of lions arrived. By repeatedly clicking the shutter, he coaxed the evercurious cubs forward. This bold

cub gazed into the camera lens as it stepped forwards to sniff the strange object. Shot in the dark Andrew Schoeman Runner-up, Nature in Back and White On a night drive in the Timbavati Nature Reserve, South Africa, Andrew Schoeman began following two male lions on patrol. From his vehicle, he watched them as they walked at

South Africa’s Greg du Toit named Wildlife Photographer of the Year | Beating almost 43,000 other entries from across 96 countries, Greg du Toit’s photo of elephants will take centre stage at the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition opening at the Natural History Museum on 18 October 2013 by STAFF REPORTER SOUTH African photographer Greg du Toit has been named Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2013 by the panel of international judges for his image ‘Essence of elephants’, a portrait of African elephants in the Northern Tuli Game Reserve

in Botswana. The winners of this year’s prestigious Wildlife Photographer of the Year Competition were announced on Tuesday at a gala awards ceremony held at London’s Natural History Museum. Beating almost 43,000 other entries from 96 countries, Du

| Greg du Toit’s award-winning ‘Essence of Elephants’

Toit’s image will take centre stage at the exhibition opening at the Natural History Museum on 18 October. The acclaimed show celebrates the rich array of life on our planet, reflecting its beauty and highlighting its fragility. After its London premiere, the exhibition embarks on a British

and international tour, to be enjoyed by millions of people across the world. Du Toit spent 10 years on the quest for a perfect portrait of an elephant herd. According to the photographer, it was preparation, passion and luck combined that helped him secure this winning image. “My goal was to throw caution to the wind, to abandon conventional photographic practices in an attempt to capture a unique elephant portrait. This image hints at the special energy I feel when I am with elephants,” he said. Chair of the judging panel, accomplished wildlife photographer Jim Brandenburg commented, “Greg’s image immediately catapults us to the African plains. This image stood out for both its technical excellence and the unique moment it captures – it is truly a once in a lifetime shot.” Udayan Rao Pawar was also recognised as Young Wildlife Photographer of the Year for his image ‘Mother’s little headful’. This presents an arresting scene of gharial crocodiles on the banks of the Chambal River in

Madhya Pradesh, India, an area increasingly under threat from illegal sand mining and fishing. The two images were selected from 18 individual category winners, depicting nature at its finest, from displays of peculiar animal behaviour to stunning landscapes. The competition, coowned by the Natural History Museum, London, and BBC Worldwide is judged by a panel of industryrecognised professionals. Images, submitted by professional and amateur photographers alike, are selected for their creativity, artistry and technical complexity. Six other South African photographers have taken top prizes in this year’s competition. See their spectacular images and read the stories behind them online at www.nhm.ac.uk/wpy Exhibition information Dates and times: 18 Oc tober 2013 until 23 March 2014, 10.00–17.50 (last admission 17.15). Visitor enquiries: +44 (0)20 7942 5000. Admission: Adult £12*, child and concession £6*, family (up to two adults and three children) £33*


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of prizes in top competition a leisurely pace, scent-marking, investigating smells they came across and, every so often, stopping to listen. The pair eventually settled in a small clearing in the bush, all the while alert to the night sounds. Andrew wanted to capture the intense expression of one of the lions, but it was only when the headlights of an approaching vehicle illuminated part of its face that he got the chance. The second bit of luck was that the lion didn’t move in that brief moment, allowing him to be isolated in sharp profile against the blackness of the night. “I loved the isolation of the lion against the blackness of the night and the intense look on his face as he listened to the night sounds. I was hoping he wouldn’t move and that everyone on the vehicle would stay still so the image would be sharp,” said Schoeman. Surfing delight Wim van den Heever Runner-up, Animals in their Environment Wim van den Heever began

to regret setting out in such a small boat off the coast of Port St Johns, South Africa, that day. His tough-plastic camera bags were leaking salt water onto his precious camera, the heavy swell made it a challenge to balance, and he had painful cramp in his arm from holding the heavy lens to his eye. He had to concentrate hard on keeping the dolphins in the viewfinder while not falling out of the boat. But the moment the mass of bottlenose dolphins exploded in unison, he knew it was all worth it. The perfect backdrop for such a serendipitous moment was the backlit curtain of sparkling spray. Some scientists argue that dolphins don’t play for the sheer fun of it in the way we humans do. What Van den Heever observed that day suggests otherwise. The Golden Hour Lou Coetzer Commended Image A photo of three playful lions by South Africa’s Lou Coetzer is one

| Isak Pretorius, “Sticky Situation”

| God’s Ivory, by Brent Stirton, won the Wildlife Photojournalist Award

of the commended images. Lou Coetzer started photography 39 years ago as a pupil at Helpmekaar Boys High in Johannesburg. He now owns a business running photographic safaris in southern Africa. He was photographing at a remote waterhole in Etosha National Park, Namibia, where a pride of lions had gathered, and he had been there since first light. As the sun came up, a playful mood seemed to infect the whole pride, but these three adolescent males were particularly skittish. Now, as the adolescents engaged in an entertaining round of chasing, cuffing, pouncing and wrestling, the scene was bathed in a golden glow. “It was a rare opportunity to see lions in such beautiful light against a simple backdrop. They also had such cute facial expressions, as though they were young cubs again,” said Coetzer. But the rough-andtumble play presented a technical challenge in terms of the depth of field and the speed needed to capture the action in low light.

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The OPTIMIST

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The United States Constitution begins with the words, ‘We the People.’ Simple, direct, profound. The South African Constitution begins with the words, We the People.’ Take note. Few ‘people’ pay much attention to the words, albeit the American or South African Constitution. Few know the contents in full. But the beauty of those words, we the people, is something we should never forget. We are the people, the individuals that the present government swears to uphold and serve. All the more brought back to remind me on my last visit to South Africa. Too often we are marginalized in the mess of politics. Politicians make news, their all too often disregard for law, ethics and responsibility surface in the words that make the headlines. They may have been elected, but I see little evidence of their influence, other than the usual mockery, in the people I encountered. Sometimes I think we know nothing, or care less, for the individuals that propose to have our best interests at heart. Ghosts all of them, and never more so than our own leaders.

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Inching towards majority rule By mid-1990, a free Mandela was rapidly generating momentum for a broad-based convention on South Africa’s democratic future. In May of that year, Mandela led a multiracial ANC delegation into preliminary negotiations with a government delegation of 11 Afrikaner men. Mandela impressed them with his discussions of Afrikaner history, and the negotiations led to the Groot Schuur Minute, in which the government lifted the state of emergency. In August Mandela – recognising the ANC’s severe military disadvantage – offered a ceasefire, the Pretoria Minute, for

When it comes to election time in the United States, the candidates are subjected to the most severe scrutiny. Men and women hoping for votes must be prepared to share their family ties, their backgrounds, history of personal and career paths – their lives laid bare for the voters to decide. Sure, as is the case with most politicians, some secrets will out eventually, but think about it, what do we know of those in our government? Where did they come from, what about their families, their track records? Do we see pictures of children and animals draped out on the sofa, personal stories, do we have any kind of connection? Do we the people actually know who we are voting for, or do we simply vote for the party and accept that the individual listed on the ballot is worthy of the job? It should be about the people. Every citizen is the reason for government. And in this fog which he was widely criticised by MK activists. He spent much time trying to unify and build the ANC, appearing at a Johannesburg conference in December attended by 1600 delegates, many of whom found him more moderate than expected. At the ANC’s July 1991 national conference in Durban, Mandela admitted the party’s faults and announced his aim in building a “strong and well-oiled task force” for securing majority rule. At the conference, he was elected ANC President, replacing the ailing Tambo, while a 50-strong multiracial, multi-gendered national executive was elected. Mandela was given an office in the newly purchased ANC headquarters at Shell House, central Johannesburg, while moving with Winnie to her large Soweto home. Their marriage was increasingly strained as he learned of her affair with Dali Mpofu, but he supported her during her trial for kidnap and assault. He gained funding for her defence from the International Defence and Aid Fund for Southern Africa and from Libyan leader Muammar Gaddafi, but in June 1991 she was found guilty and sentenced to six years, reduced to two on appeal. On 13 April 1992, Mandela publicly

of accountability and elected, I doubt many feel that they are justly represented. Have a voice. But we do, and therein lies our responsibility. Just because South Africa does not have the road shows, the debates or the vast televised coverage of an election, it should not mean that we simply do our ‘duty’ to vote and not question, probe or demand the right to be heard. When at last all were given the vote, life changed for South Africa and its people. If anything, how wonderful that OUR constitution begins with ‘We the People.’ That’s us folks. Farmer, car guard, teacher, grandmother and fisherman. Miner, Entrepreneur, skydiver and chef. Your country is governed by those who are put there by us; and it’s time we took this role more seriously. Bleating about corrupt politicians is our stain, our lapse in judgment and our lost opportunity to be accountable.

| Jacob Zuma, (centre, with raised fist) was very influential in the partial reconciliation of warring IFP and ANC supporters, in Cape Town in 1990

announced his separation from Winnie, while the ANC forced her to step down from the national executive for misappropriating ANC funds; Mandela moved into the mostly-white Johannesburg suburb of Houghton. Mandela’s reputation was further damaged by the increase in “black-on-black” violence, particularly between ANC and Inkatha supporters in KwaZulu-Natal, in which thousands died. Mandela met with Inkatha leader Buthelezi, but the ANC prevented further negotiations on the issue.


thesouthafrican.com | 22 - 28 October 2013 |

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Critics of South Africans who emigrate desperately want to believe new New South Africa branding spin

| I find it hard to imagine the same level of resentment and antagonism for those who move overseas in any other country in the world. Could it be that South Africans have been fed so many excellently crafted marketing messages that they have lost perspective?

SPEAKER’S CORNER THE BEST OF THESOUTHAFRICAN.COM/COLUMNS

by PHILIPPA CROSS SOUTH Africans are a vocal bunch, and there is no shortage of harsh words aimed at those who choose to leave South Africa’s shores, even if just for a few years to diversify their work and life experience. We met with such anger and bitterness when we announced our decision to move to Australia for two or three years to see what it was like. I find it hard to imagine the same level of resentment and antagonism for those who move overseas in any other country in the world. Picture this conversation in a pub in England: “Reg and I are thinking of going to Canada for a year or two.” “Wow, that’s quite a big move. What brought that on?” “We just feel like a change of scenery, and thought it would be nice to see what Canada’s like.” “Well, we’ll certainly miss you, but that sounds like quite an adventure. Good luck to you both. Keep in touch. Send photos of Canada from time to time.” This is how it goes in a South African pub: “Reg and I are thinking of going to Canada for a year or two.” “You cowards. What the $#%@$^ do you want to go to Canada for? Canada’s $%@$% cold and full of $%@$ Canadians. You’re crazy man. Mad.” “We just feel like a chance of scenery, and thought it would be nice to see what Canada’s like.” “You guys are what’s wrong with this country. You think the grass is greener on the other side. You don’t stay and build the country up, you move away and run it down. If you aren’t part of the solution, you’re part of the problem. Just $@%$ off to Canada. It’s $TQ% cold there anyway. Like your hearts.” “Um. Okay. Well – we’ll keep in touch.” “Don’t bother. I only want real friends. And real friends don’t immigrate. In fact, I’m defriending you on Facebook. The last thing I want is a whole bunch of news about how @%^^ great Canada is.” I’ve got a theory about the reason for this strange reaction to anyone who wants to venture across South Africa’s border. Could it be that South Africans have been fed so many excellently crafted marketing messages that they have lost perspective? Are South Africans victims of nothing

more than one giant propaganda campaign? Let’s face it, it wouldn’t be the first time in South Africa’s history that the wool was pulled over South Africans’ eyes. According to their website, Brand South Africa was established in August 2002 to help create a positive and compelling brand image for South Africa. I think they’ve done an excellent job. So much so that it explains the part of the contemporary South African’s psyche that is so puzzling to me. Where does this fierce, almost militant national pride come from? At the time that Brand South Africa was formed, both South Africans and the world were unsure about what to think of South Africa. This is not surprising. A lot of change took place in a very short space of time. It was in 1990 that the National Party government took the first step towards dismantling discrimination when it lifted the ban on the African National Congress and other political organisations. It released Nelson Mandela from prison after twentyseven years’ serving a sentence for sabotage. South Africa held its first universal elections in 1994, which the ANC won by an overwhelming majority. It has been in power ever since. Very early on, South Africa was dubbed the rainbow nation, and praise was piled upon us from every part of the globe. The peaceful transition was proof that differences could be overcome, and that people, previously opposed, could be united to work towards a common, greater good. It was a golden moment in twentieth century history. Although they would prove to be slower to react to other things, like education, health, infrastructure and policing – the new South African government realised very early on that if they were to receive any investment whatsoever, then the image of South Africa needed to be revamped. The New South Africa needed to be packaged, bundled and marketed to the world, and to its own citizens, many of whom were more confused than the rest of the world were in trying to understand this “Rainbow Nation”. The need to create a new “country-brand” led to the creation of Brand South Africa, whose main objective is the marketing of South Africa to South Africans through the Brand South Africa campaign.

| It can’t always be like this: do South Africans protest too much about the criticism of emigrés?

Brand South Africa’s role is to create a positive, unified image of South Africa; one that builds pride, promotes investment and tourism, and helps new enterprises and job creation. The organisation operates by, among other things, boosting local pride and patriotism through various campaigns. The result is that much of South Africa’s image today is completely contrived. It is fed to South Africans and it is fed to the world through a very carefully selected media platform. Serious issues of policy and governance are more often than not treated like mere marketing and public relations exercises. When the real issues facing the county could not be dealt with quickly, effectively and efficiently, PR, marketing and advertising companies are hired to find a way to spin the story to the South African public and the world. In any other language, in any other time in history, this would be recognised as propaganda. But in South Africa, it is called branding. Boosting patriotism is the job of a branding organisation. I have a feeling that if pressed, those conversations in the pub would come down to what South Africans have been taught to think about immigration through very successful advertising and PR campaigns.

There’s something back to front about it. There’s something back to front about a lot in South Africa in fact. There seems to be a belief that if you create it, manufacture it, design it to be so, just in appearance alone, then it will be so. That life will imitate art. There is nothing of substance beneath the image of South Africa that is presented to her people. It is a brand image, created in Photoshop, brought to life in television studios by highly creative television commercials; they are the artists behind the South Africa that is sold to South Africans. That South Africa doesn’t really exist. Not entirely at least. It’s been cropped from a larger picture; it’s been “photoshopped” to take out the bits that don’t fit the image that the government wants to promote. The uncomfortable parts of the picture have been smudged out, faded, or removed altogether. But the unedited version is not as pretty. The skills being produced will not sustain the economy. The tax will not sustain the country’s spending. The education system will not educate the children adequately. The hospitals will not care for the people well enough. And no amount of advertising or branding or engineered patriotism will change those facts.

The country is a dream built on sand. The slightest flood will wash it away. It is a house of cards, ready to topple at a slight breeze. And that flood is the brain drain as it’s been called, the mass exodus of skill and expertise. That breeze is the thousands of South African who leave each year, taking with them their tax contributions from the pot and their skills from the economy that so desperately needs them. I think when South Africans react so vehemently against fellow South Africans who choose to leave, it is because they want so desperately to believe in the brand campaign that is being fed to them. And who wouldn’t want to believe that? Who wouldn’t want to live in a great united country of freedom, alive with possibilities? I certainly want to. Philippa Cross was born to newly arrived British immigrants in Apartheid South Africa in the late 1970’s. She came of age the same year as The New South Africa was born, and lived in the brand New South Africa for fifteen more years. There from the country’s joyous and much celebrated birth into freedom and democracy, then through her teething years, and well into her more recent teenage tantrums, Philippa finally let South Africa go in 2011, when she immigrated to central Queensland.


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| 22 - 28 October 2013 | thesouthafrican.com

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Flagship auction of South African wine nets over R8m

| At the record-breaking 29th Nedbank Cape Winemakers Guild Auction in South Africa, the biggest foreign buyer was the UK

IT’S probably a good thing Marie-Antoinette lost her head when she did because I’m not quite sure how she might have rephrased her contempt for the poor in light of the current craze for so-called portmanteau bakery. Somehow “let them eat duffins” doesn’t have quite the same ring to it. At the recent 29th Nedbank Cape Winemakers Guild Auction held at Spier Wine Estate in the Stellenbosch Winelands this past weekend, the highest sales ever were recorded, exceeding R8 million. Each year the Nedbank Cape Winemakers Guild Auction showcases the finest and most

exclusive wines produced by its members. These rare wines are of a limited edition and are produced in small volumes exclusively for this auction. Strict controls are put in place to ensure wines are distinct from those offered under the winemakers’ regular labels. Known as South Africa’s premier wine auction it showed this year with record sales totalling R8 401 400, up nearly 50% on the 2012 CWG Auction with a total of R5,7 million. A new record was also set for the highest price per case of R6 200 achieved by the Hartenberg Auction Reserve Shiraz 2010. The auction attracted 163 buyers this year, 145 local and 18 foreign, the biggest ever. The auction was conducted by Henré Hablutzel of Hofmeyr Mills Auctioneers for the 16th consecutive year. A total of 3 218 cases were sold, averaging R2 609 per case and/ or R435 per bottle. The line-up

consisted of 58 wines with 35 reds, 18 whites, two MCCs, a pudding wine, a port and a pot still brandy. The biggest foreign buyers were the United Kingdom with R474 200, Denmark second with R297 200, and Belgium third at R225 200. The 10 top selling wines based on an average price per case of 6 bottles were: Etienne le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon Auction Reserve 2010 R5 255 Teddy Hall Eva (Krotoa) Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest 2012 R5 210 Boekenhoutskloof Syrah Auction Reserve 2011 R5 126 Neil Ellis Auction Reserve Pinotage 2011 R4 910 Kanonkop CWG Paul Sauer 2010 R4 780 Beyerskloof Traildust Pinotage 2011 R4 540 Ernie Els CWG 2011 R4 128 Hartenberg Auction Reserve Shiraz 2010 R4 015 Cederberg Teen die Hoog Shiraz 2011 R3 953 Boplaas, Ox Wagon 1880 Auction Reserve Potstill

Brandy, 8 Year Old R3 708 “The overall growth and increase in the average price per bottle by 14,5% is testimony to the high quality standards of our auction wines, as endorsed by the excellent reviews by both local and international wine commentators prior to the auction,” said an elated Jeff Grier, Chairman of the Cape Winemaker’s Guild. “The Guild has become a reputable brand in the South African wine industry and our contribution to the industry as a whole through our social responsibility programmes

and the development of future winemakers and industry leaders, is tangible and contributes to our high standing and credibility,” he added. This was truly a great day for South African wines in that the prices secured, just emphasised the point that the top end of SA wines has great value. Something that UK consumers should really consider when buying wines based purely on price! It is however unfortunate that some of the wines auctioned won’t be readily available in the UK for the foreseeable future. Watch this space. Hopefully we might be able to get our hands on a bottle or two…..

The cronut, the duffin, and the vetsister

| Portmanteau bakery’ is what some are calling it. ‘Frankenstein pastries’ according to others. Whatever you want to call it, I want in on it. And so I give you, ladies and gentlemen, the proudly South African vetsister by JEN SMIT IT’S probably a good thing MarieAntoinette lost her head when she did because I’m not quite sure how she might have rephrased her contempt for the poor in light of the current craze for so-called portmanteau bakery. Somehow “let them eat duffins” doesn’t have quite the same ring to it. The cronut, however, does have a ring to it. Right in the middle. And it is this little critter, a ‘smash up’ of a croissant and a doughnut created by New York based pastry chef Dominque Ansel, that is to blame for the unassailable rise of combination confectionery. Cronuts, duffins (doughnut meets muffin), townies (tartlet crossed with a brownie), muffles (the result of a sordid affair between a muffin and a waffle); They. Are. Everywhere. And as a patriotic South African I feel it is my duty to bring my country to the tea table. With….the Vetsister! C’mon, genius, right? And I don’t just mean the name. I’m talking golden, pillowy vetkoek embracing sticky, cinnamon-laced

koeksister in a conjugal visit from heaven that cannot fail to produce the ultimate tea time heir. Or maybe just a bit of a brak with novelty value. And so, as the powers that be of Starbucks sat contemplating their legal duffin-up, I beat a path to my kitchen to make confectionery magic. I, naturally, was confidence personified as I sifted, mixed and kneaded my vetkoek dough. Yes, I closed the fire-door and opened all the windows – a precaution, you understand - but that turned out to be wholly unnecessary. For after an unctuous little jacuzzi, my voluptuous plaited vetsisters emerged puffed up and golden. A

few swift incisions and they were ready to be filled with a fragrant, koeksisterly combination of golden syrup, sticky stem ginger, candied orange peel and ground cinnamon. And some, for a preChristmas variation, ‘krismis’ mince. Ashley’s verdict? Said with a degree of surprise but with a mouth happily full: “This is goooooood.” Between us we devoured three, and Ashley took a doggie bag, so I think I am entitled to say, move over cronut, step aside, duffin, the vetsister is here – and she’s blerrie lekker! PS I have three left. Form an orderly queue.


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thesouthafrican.com | 22 - 28 October 2013 |

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South Africa’s public transport dream rapidly becoming real by STAFF REPORTER

JOHANNESBURG has commissioned the second phase of its multi-billion rand bus rapid transit system - part of a 13-city integrated public transport system rollout that is creating tens of thousands of jobs and driving the localisation of bus manufacturing in South Africa. Bus rapid transit (BRT) systems are currently being constructed in Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban, Pretoria, Rustenburg and Port Elizabeth, and the the government plans to extend it to seven more cities - Nelspruit, Bloemfontein, East London, Polokwane, Msunduzi, Ekurhuleni and George - over the next five years. Economic Development Minister Ebrahim Patel, speaking at the opening of the east-west link of Johannesburg’s Rea Vaya BRT system on Monday, said the system aimed “to bring many of the benefits of car ownership to

the public transport system: namely flexibility, speed and wide access”. Patel noted that the spatial geography of apartheid had separated economic hubs from residential areas, both countrywide and in the cities, where large townships such as Soweto served as “dormitory settlements from which workers were transported daily to the industrial and commercial areas and affluent suburbs”. The new integrated public transport system for South Africa’s cities sought to address this by connecting work and residence in a more integrated way. “Modern cities work on a combination of transport modes,” he added. “Our challenge has been to connect these seamlessly so that workers can use these in combination to reach their destinations.” Patel said that Johannesburg’s Rea Vaya system had so far created 21 925 jobs in its construction phase, and that Johannesburg and Cape Town

Rand on a four-week high by JACO HERSELMAN

THE RAND continued to be range bound for most of last week as the US impasse entered its third week and markets remained cautious of a potential default. The issue was to be the main focus point for markets last week with the debt ceiling deadlock day of October 17th nearing. On October 16, the senate passed a resolution effectively suspending the debt debate until February next year. This resolution fuelled risk appetite for high-yielding emerging market currencies and helped the Rand reach its highest level in four weeks against the US Dollar. The Rand was briefly at R9.7410 against the greenback on Friday, the strongest it has been since September 20. The deadlock in the US, which saw large parts of the US Government come to a standstill, has disrupted US economic growth and could lead to the Fed delaying the tapering of its stimulus program. According to Jane Foley of Radobank International, it is unlikely for the

Fed to start tapering quantitative easing before March 2014. This, along with positive Chinese growth, will further boost risk sentiment. The coming week focus will be on South Africa’s minister of finances, Pravin Gordhan, as he announces his mid-term budget on Wednesday with updated growth and fiscal projections. GBP / ZAR: 15.8321 EUR / ZAR: 13.3906 USD / ZAR: 9.78878 NZD / ZAR: 8.31155 Exchange rates as of 08:25 (GMT), 21 October 2013 :: Note: The above exchange rates are based on “interbank” rates. Make use of a Rate Notifier to send you alerts when the South African exchange rate reaches levels you are looking for. For expert financial advice on tax, foreign exchange and more, make ‘first contact with us at 1stcontact.com Brought to you by

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Parents and grandparents born in the old Transvaal and Orange Free State republics by STAFF REPORTER

IT HAS come to our attention that an immigration company is spreading a rumour that South Africans whose parents and grandparents were born in the old Transvaal and Orange Free State are eligible to apply for British citizenship. Unfortunately, this is not the case. Neither will they be able to apply for the UK Ancestry Visa. In order for an applicant to qualify to apply for a UK ancestry visa, the grandmother or grandfather of the applicant must have been born in the UK (or Ireland before 1922). In terms of direct citizenship, the law looks at the fact that

South Africa was an independent Commonwealth country on 1 January 1949 (the relevant date in the legislation when looking at British Citizenship claims). People born in South Africa are thus not reckoned to be British by birth. For more information, please do not hesitate to contact our offices. JP Breytenbach Director of BIC, Breytenbachs Immigration Consultants Ltd.www. bic-immigration.com or info@bicimmigration.com

would be spending R624-million between them this year on 220 locally assembled BRT buses. As the BRT system is rolled out in other cities, “they too will specify locally manufactured buses for public entities to purchase, creating we hope the economies of scale and market size that will see a dynamic, competitive local bus assembly industry”. The BRT system is part of a wider, R4.3-trillion infrastructure programme that would fundamentally reshape South African economy and society.

| The Gautrain, flagship of the new national transport infrastructure, has confounded its skeptics

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| 22 - 28 October 2013 | thesouthafrican.com

SA SHOP DIRECTORY BILTONG DIRECT Biltong Direct, in the business of making superior South African meat products since 2004. Online or from our shop (directions on website – www.biltongdirect.co.uk). Retail and wholesale sales. We manufacture Biltong, Droewors, Snap Sticks, Boerewors & Gluten and MSG free products, offer quick dispatch and a 100% Satisfaction guarantee. Call 01268-685728

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LIMPOPO BUTCHERS We believe in small, well run family businesses, where quality is the number one priority. Come and try our delicious traditional recipe biltong, drywors, and boerewors, as well as aged beef steaks, chicken flatties, and succulent lamb. 9 Horn Lane, Acton, W3 9NJ Tel: 020 8993 8823 www.thesaffashop.com

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KALAHARI MOON The Southern African Shop in Bristol. Wide range of stock including excellent boerewors and biltong. Centrally situated, friendly service. Connecting South Africans. Tel: 0117 929 9879 Address: 88 - 91 The Covered Market. st Nicholas Market, Corn Street, Bristol, BS1 1JQ Email: Info@kalaharimoon.co.uk Website: www.kalaharimoon.co.uk

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thesouthafrican.com | 22 - 28 October 2013 |

Zimbabwe Community

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Poachers poison 100 elephants in reserve

| The decaying carcasses of at least 100 elephants were found in Hwange National Park after poachers poisoned the park’s watering holes and land with cyanide. The use of poison marks a front in the fight against poaching by HARRIET MANN MORE than 100 elephants have been poisoned with cyanide for their ivory tusks in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park. Each year, 25,000 elephants are killed by poachers. In 1979, 1.3 million African elephants roamed sub-saharan Africa alone, conservation charity Wild Aid reported. Today, just 34 years later, there are just 500 to 700,000 left in the world. Slaughter The decaying bodies of 87 elephants were found in the park after poachers poisoned the park’s watering holes and land. Authorities later found a dozen more carcasses at a site some 38km from the main camp in the National Park. Officials with the wildlife authorities said they suspected the mass poisoning was conducted by a second poaching ring. So far, 13 elephant tusks have been recovered and two suspects – both impoverished villagers – were arrested, the officials said. If the slaughter of more than elephants was not enough, more animals will be killed as they feast on the elephants’ remains. South African wildlife vet Dr William Fowlds said the “silent killer” is advantageous for poachers as they can poach bird beaks after they die as a result of feeding off the cyanide-poisoned elephant’s carcass. It could take decades for this poison to disappear.

In humans, cyanide poisoning symptoms include weakness and confusion, headaches, nausea, breathing difficulties, loss of consciousness, seizures and cardiac arrest. The authorities have so far recovered 51 ivory tusks, which means the poachers still have 123, CNN reported. Elephant’s Saviour? Despite some critics believing the Zimbabwean government is involved in the illegal poaching trade, the new environment minister Saviour Kasukuwere wants to enforce harsher jail penalties for poachers. “We now have to work very hard with our sister departments and security services, police and so on, to try and flush out… the locals who are being used by syndicates of traders and so on, that are behind this whole scheme. “There are some serious people behind this and we need to flush out these elements,” he told ITV News. The sentencing of poachers does seem to be taken more seriously in recent cases. Three of eight poachers facing illegal ivory charges were sentenced to a total of 47 years in prison and fined $800,000, the Zimbabwe parks and wildlife management authority said on Thursday. The remaining five poachers will be sentenced on 4 October 2013. Demand for ivory Despite an international ivory ban enforced in 1989, demand for elephant tusk has rocketed. In a bid to stop poaching, the

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Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora (CITIES) approved China and Japan as two official ivory trading partners in 2009. CITIES approved the sale of more than 100 tonnes of legal ivory, predicting there would be a reduction in the demand for illegal ivory. It is this mistake that has seen a rise in poaching, explains Born Free Foundation director Will Travers. The convention believed that satisfying illegal ivory demand by making legal ivory available would have a knock-on effect on the poaching of elephants. This prediction was “disastrously wrong,” Travers told the Changing

Face of The Rhino conference. “Far from satisfying demand, demand was stimulated and elephant poaching has gone through the roof. “The volume of legal ivory being traded has hit 25-year highs and the price being paid for one kilo…of illegal ivory now, is 1,000 percent higher than the legal sale prices those few years ago,” he said. Global discussion Despite ivory demand increasing at record rates, the channels to influence Asian countries are beginning to open. Government initiatives, celebrities and the Asian youth are getting behind programmes to raise awareness of conservation issues and to smash traditional

misconceptions. The need for urgent conservation is echoed in other parts of international dialogue. UN secretary general Ban Ki Moon linked poaching to other serious transnational organized crime, like terrorism earlier this year. Reports that the Nairobi Westgate mall terror attackers al-Shabaab are linked to the illegal rhino horn trade surfaced earlier this week. The UN Commission on crime prevention and criminal justice resolution also called on global nations to consider wildlife and forest crime as a “serious form of organized crime”. This is a complex, transnational problem that requires global cooperation.


14



Travel

| 22 - 28 October 2013 | thesouthafrican.com Follow us on Twitter: @TheSAnews

Small country, big heart: into Swaziland by Kombi

| We were entirely surprised that a week wasn’t enough to explore tiny

Swaziland. The reed dance, the decadent king, the corruption of courtiers and royals: all this is true. But Swaziland, beyond the headlines and the waterfalls and the game, is memorable for its safety, its outstanding arts and crafts industry, and the warmth of Swazi people. by BRETT PETZER I HAVE never known what to do with Swaziland or Lesotho. These two monarchies blessedly escaped apartheid through some astute 19th-century diplomacy by old king Moshoeshoe and Ngwane V. But what to make of them now? Lesotho has some magic scenery, but the facilities are so much grander on the South African side of the Drakensberg that I had always thought of the Mountain Kingdom as more of a rite of passage for suburban 4x4 owners than an important destination for the curious Southern African traveller. Now that I know how wrong I have been about Swaziland, Lesotho is probably something I should investigate as a matter of urgency because our eastern semienclave is a world apart. Our hosts in Swaziland were hippies who left the Republic for the Kingdom in the 1970s to flee conscription into the Total Onslaught. They found a warm welcome and a natural habitat for blissed-out countercultural living in Swaziland’s gentle hilly, slightly tropical waterfall country and its rolling Lowveld. The idea of living under an absolute monarch was also more congenial under old King Sobhuza than under today’s Mswati III, who presides at vast expense over

a people with the world’s highest HIV/Aids burden. However, the average tourist has little involvement with Swazi politics; the best one can do is support people who are making a difference you believe in, spend money so that, as far as possible, it flows directly to ordinary people, and have a great time. We found that last part easy to follow from the moment our 1990s-vintage white Kombi crossed the Swazi border at Ngwenya, where we bought hot mielies dripping with butter and Aromat from strolling vendors. Ahead was a country with an astonishingly intact traditional way of life that was still a fact of life for Swazi people, that shows up in the persistence of rural customs and fragments of traditional dress worn by older people. Over drinks at the entirely surprising and memorable House on Fire/Washa Umkhukhu complex that night, Swazis were divided about this living tradition and its headline-grabbing, maidenmarrying embodiment, Mswati III. Several beers deep, opinions were divided: Swaziland’s ‘unspoilt’ nature - quiet roads, a seasonal pace of life, the immersive nature of the uncrowded and beautiful national parks - also explained the poverty of Swazis. To South African eyes, the poverty of Swazis was not new; their gentleness, however, was. This is a country that hasn’t known the kind of grinding inequality

and violence South Africa has. In tiny, hilly Mbabane, we parked the Kombi along a major road and climbed up to a waterfall by night to play guitar and drink wine. Herders guiding livestock along rutted roads between far-flung clusters of suburban housing waved us along with a smile or a slow, courteous exchange of greetings. The same difference held with Swazi crafts: their variety and quality is so consistently high that crafts are a major export for the kingdom. From Ngwenya glass and Swazi Candles, we four jaded Capetonians gasped at the artistic vision and the technical execution of a Murano-style vase that was unmistakably Swazi. This is not a country of endless tall wooden giraffes. By day four, we had warmed up the winding roads and short driving distances, and set out for the Mantenga falls. The Falls sit in lush forest, and the hills that support timber plantations help to lend a curiously far-away feel to the landscape. The water feature itself is a miniaturised version of the great South African falls like Tugela, but that seems entirely appropriate for a country that you can cross by car before brunch (well, late brunch). We minded none of this because our South African don’t-be-a-target inner voices were turned off; we picnicked everywhere, we stayed until near dark, and we were afraid. This was a feeling more exotic than Swaziland’s tidy, well-equipped national parks and its hidden destination restaurants could ever be. After bucolic days climbing hills with full picnic baskets and cases of Pinotage and, much less vigorously, descending them, the time had come for a year’s worth of music in one high-altitude, high-decibel weekend. Swaziland may be as gentle as a Summer afternoon nap but it plugs in the metaphorical amplifier once a year for the Brushfire Festival (bush-fire.com), held in and around the House on Fire complex, easily Swaziland’s gem for big sound, tall drinks and mystical Africana wrapped in a free-standing artistic vision. Attendance numbers in the thousands, and the crush of bodies most of whom hop over from South Africa for the festival - made the stars and the quiet of the rest of our holiday all the most memorable. For all these reasons, and for none to do with reed dances, Swaziland deserves a visit when next you head east from Johannesburg or Northeast from Durban.

| Swaziland’s famous Mantenga Falls (Image: Wikimedia Commons)

| Mbabane’s entirely delightful House on Fire complex is easy to find but hard to leave. Above, a column detail in this richly-ornamented meta-artwork; below, an outdoor seating area


15

thesouthafrican.com | 22 - 28 October 2013 |

Sport

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Clapham Common Autumn League heats up | Tight competition among both the men’s and women’s teams makes for sunny, high-octane rugby on the Common by TRACY ANDREW WHAT a way to start the new Autumn Touch League at Clapham Common with bright sunny weather and perfect temperatures. Teams loved the sunshine and the atmosphere was electric. The following week happened to be raining but no amount of rain was going to ruin the teams parade as all teams turned up to the league in full force ready to dominate the play. Each week, rain or shine, the players love for the game has shone through with their positive attitude and eagerness to hit the pitch. Also cementing their place in the mixed competition was the Galaxy Women’s Development team. Playing in the 3rd mixed division, you can clearly see these girls are fully ready to hold their own, and prove they will be in it to win it. It is hard work for them as some of the men have more speed and agility, but with all the girls playing really well tactically it makes for a great season. The Mens league looks to be very tight as there is not much

separating the teams in terms of skill and agility. This draw sees some old rival clubs - Galaxy, Gurus, Chili’s, Hot Custard and two new teams, The Cannonballs and Return of the CCSC, take the field to settle some old scores. So far there have been some great upsets and some extremely close games. The men are all vying for the four top spots which will be hard to achieve in such a closely contested league. We have three fantastic full mixed divisions for the Clapham League, which makes it the most popular division. In the 1st division there are lots of rivalries including Hot Custard, Galaxy, Guru’s and Chili’s. The 2nd division has also provided great competition, with results too close for comfort. In the 3rd division there is the Galaxy women’s team as well as Sparky the Wonderdog, The Good, The Bad and The Ugly, and The Boffers to name a few. From players just starting out to players who have represented at the highest level of touch, the skill set and level across a

WP, Sharks advance to the Absa Currie Cup final by STAFF REPORTER

DHL Western Province and The Sharks on Saturday booked their places in the Absa Currie Cup final in Cape Town next week following well-deserved victories in their semifinals against the MTN Golden Lions and Toyota Free State Cheetahs respectively. Defending champions, Western Province, automatically earned a home final with their 33-16 victory against the Lions at DHL Newlands after finishing the round-robin stages as the top team, while the Sharks defeated the Cheetahs 33-22 at Growthpoint Kings Park in Durban. Next week’s match-up will mark the second successive showdown between the teams in the Absa Currie Cup final, while it

will also mark the Sharks’ fourth successive final appearance. In the other big match this weekend, GWK Griquas pipped the Steval Pumas 21-19 in their first Absa Currie Cup promotionrelegation clash in Kimberley on Friday. The teams will meet again in Nelspruit next week to determine which side will participate in the Premier Division next year. In the Absa Junior Provincial Championships, the Vodacom Blue Bulls and DHL Western Province Under-21 teams and the MTN Golden Lions and Vodacom Blue Bulls Under-19 teams booked their places in their respective finals next week. These matches will be played in the build-up to the Absa Currie Cup final at DHL Newlands.

Sunday is very diverse, and there is the opportunity to advance and improve on all aspects of the game. With players willing to lend a helping hand and offer helpful advice, the atmosphere (no matter the weather) is always positive and bright. Teams love the social, friendly games, bringing lots of enthusiasm and great character.

At this stage of the competition, it could be anyone’s game. With another three more weeks of round games before our semi-finals and finals week, friendly tension will soon be felt in the air. So if you happen to be wandering past Clapham Common in the next few weeks on a Sunday afternoon and feeling a little chilly, be sure

to drop by and catch a glimpse of the roaring hot touch action going down. It’s a sure fire way to warm up. If anyone is interested in playing in this league or joining an existing team then please email tracy@in2touch.com or have a look at our website, www. in2touch.co/uk www.in2touch.com/uk


SPORT

22 - 28 October 2013

CLAPHAM COMMON IN2TOUCH AUTUMN LEAGUE HOTS UP - P15

WP AND SHARK ADVANCE TO CURRIE CUP - P15

NEWS FOR GLOBAL SOUTH AFRICANS

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PROTEAS JUST TOO GOOD NOT TO BOUNCE BACK HARD |The Proteas may have lost the first test against Pakistan but a great team like this doesn’t go bad overnight By JEREMY BORTZ

THE Proteas will be hurting after their loss against Pakistan inside four days and there is much work to be done before the second test gets underway in Dubai on Wednesday 23 October. Losing is always difficult but perhaps more so when you’ve become used to winning: this loss was the Proteas’s first away loss since Kolkata in 2010 and their first “overall” since losing the Boxing Day Test to Sri Lanka in December 2011, 15 tests ago. Further, with this being only a two test series, their proud record of not losing an away series since 2006, an incredible 11 series in all, is under threat. Given Pakistan’s 4–0 record to date against number one ranked teams in the UAE, and their request to the groundsman to provide a wicket that will give a result, that threat is a major one. Quite simply, the Proteas looked rusty and were out-played. Credit to Pakistan who played superb cricket to bounce back after their loss to Zimbabwe. Both Graeme Smith and Jacques Kallis haven’t played much cricket since the last test back in February and as much as they said before the Test that they felt ready, there is no substitute for time in the middle. Alviro Petersen continues to struggle at the top of order as does Faf du Plessis at number 7. Since his

herculean efforts against Australia in his debut series and a second hundred in the second test against the Black Caps, he has scores of 15, 41, 28, 15, 29, 1 and 9. Both will be looking for a big score in this second test before heading home to face India and Australia. The bowlers too looked out of sorts and for the first time in over a year, Pakistan’s openers put on more than 50. South Africa has consistently struck at the top of the order and when you score a sub-par 249 in your first innings, this becomes even more crucial. One of the the biggest disappointments was in the spin department where Robbie Peterson had a poor game. One cannot fault his commitment, and his efforts with the bat in the second innings which helped force Pakistan to bat again, but he is simply not a wicket-taking bowler. More than that, he was unable to tie up an end and thus the Proteas were unable to exert any pressure. Imran Tahir is definitely a more attacking option and if he is going to regain his confidence, surely he needs game time on wickets that will suit him? There were some positive signs for South Africa though. Hashim Amla was again a rock in the first innings and one only hopes the new baby has as impeccable timing as its dad and Amla can make it back in time for the second innings. JP Duminy played well in his first test innings

| The Proteas’ Dale Steyn (R) is bowled out by Pakistan’s Zulfiqar Babar (unseen) during the fourth day of their first Test in Abu Dhabi on October 17, 2013. (Photo: INEKE ZONDAG/AFP/Getty Images)

back after a serious injury while the bowlers bowled a lot better early up in the second innings (Pakistan were rattled at nine for three). Smith confirmed after the test what

the squad was feeling: “It should hurt,” Smith said. “But this team has too much ability to make this a habit. This is sport, you do lose and it’s natural. We’re extremely

disappointed. We haven’t been in this position too often. And with the standards that we set ourselves, we should have the ability to bounce back.” I couldn’t agree more.

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SA to enter world tourism top 20 | SA expat critics have fallen for spin