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RETRO

Issue Five

Classic Influence. Contemporary Style.

Modern English Contemporary fashion statements

Martyn ware Heaven 17’s electric icon

Visual Acoustics The sculptured photography of Julius Shulman

Uma Turan

Hats off to the UK’s leading theatrical milliner


EDITOR’S LETTER

Hello Retroites, We’ve just returned from Vintage at Goodwood - a theatrical manifestation of an abundance of subcultures, genres, fashions, quirky nuances and although we left with one hell of a hangover we welcome an elegant festival with sartorial élan to the social calendar. But aside from frolicking with polka dot-clad women in fields, Retro has been busy producing yet another jam-packed issue for you to feast your gluttonous eyes on. Here in these pages we unveil the magnificent, sculpted photography of the late, great Julius Shulman from the critically acclaimed film Visual Acoustics. We delve under the bonnet of the uber-talented Uma Turan, the UK’s leading theatrical milliner. Rev up your Vespas and rejoice in our take of the very ‘modern’ man as we shoot some pool, dressed in high fashion. We also chat to one of Goodwood’s curators and Heaven 17’s Martyn Ware about his love of all things Italian and why he did a runner from a flat in his youth and if that wasn’t enough, we tip you the wink about James Bond’s Aston Martin DB5, driven by Sean Connery in Goldfinger and Thunderball, being up for sale at auction. All from Retro with love.

julia Brandon & bruce hudson Co-editors Retro Magazine editor@theretrocollective.com

Inspired 4 12 16 20 26

top five gadgets lifestyle fashion motoring

Features 32 38 44 54 58 64 74 78

julius shulman art deco bride contemporary mod uma turan party tarts weekend breaks my cool caravan martyn ware

publisher and& men’’s editor: Bruce Hudson women’’s editor: Julia Brandon art director: Graeme Coop chief sub-editor: Danielle Colyer advertising director: Jerry Halls +44 (0)7970 422 437


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CONTENTS

Cover Photo: Merry Phillips

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five the top


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Wheels & Dollbaby Dita Embroidered Cardi $198 (AUS) The stylish collaboration between Dita Von Teese and Wheels & Dollbaby occurred a few seasons ago, it sold out immediately and finally Wheels & Dollbaby are able to bring back a special Limited Edition run of the cardi’s in Peach, Black and Red. www.wheelsanddollbaby.com


five the top


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Pinel & Pinel Game Trunk €39,500 Pinel and Pinel’s designs are made for today’s lifestyle and alternative travel trends. The range features an i-Trunk, which includes a fully-equipped office; the Krug Trunk, the ultimate in luxury for eccentric picnickers; and this rather fantastic Game Trunk which is described as being ‘the celebration of parlour games: some privileged moments of sharing that remain engraved on our childhood memories’. There are around forty games including the 1935 1st edition Monopoly set, the 1970 1st edition Clue and for the younger folk there’s a Nintendo DS and even a bit of Triv for the whole family! www.pineletpinel.com


five the top

3

Andy Warhol: The Last Decade Exhibition at Brooklyn Museum Left: Oxidation Painting (in 12 parts) 1978. Acrylic & urine on linen. www.brooklynmuseum.org


five the top

Space Invaders Couch £POA Russian-born designer Igor Chak would like to introduce you to “an old friend that kept trying to take over Earth but retired and became a couch.” The couch is leather, with two glass surfaces, lined with memory foam for extra comfort. He is currently taking custom orders through a local manufacturer in Los Angeles. www.igorchak.com

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5

‘Etruria and Florence’ by Mikael Alacoque £POA Mikael Alacoque was initially trained as a traditional figurative sculptor and mould maker but is now looking for new meaning and relevance in old, outmoded techniques. Recent works 'Gnome Kone' and 'Bad Babysitter' are part of a series of sculptures concerned with the playfully sinister bastardisation of familiar objects. The pieces have an initial feeling of innocence but on closer inspection seem more bizarre and unsettling and be warned, whatever you do, don’t show these to your family pets. www.gggallery.co.uk


Inspired New products Classic influence Handpresso Wild Domepod $145 (CAN) Following on from the success of the Wild, which made espressos with Easy Serving Espresso pods in 2007, the Domepod has been released to make real ground coffee espressos. Fantastic for a pick-me-up on the go, the portable machine comes with a 50ml water reservoir and because of the hand pump which releases pressure upon the coffee, you get a work-out to boot. Perk-tastic. www.handpresso.ca


gadgets

Sony CDF-A110 TBC The CFD-A110 has just been released in Japan and comes with an integrated CD player, a cassette tape player and an AM/FM radio tuner. If you fancy a warble there’s a built-in microphone for recording and you can switch between your favourite stations with the two-way buttons. But being honest if you buy this baby your dial is going to be locked to only one station and that’s Retro Radio! www.sony.jp


gadgets

SB2 Sportsband £TBC Forget hi-energy sports drinks these headbands will definitely heighten your performance. The SB2 Sportsband introduces the option of CD-quality music performance and comes with apt-X on board, which cleans up and adds depth, bass and treble over Bluetooth. The design takes cues from the 80s so if you feel like ‘getting strong now’ then whack on a pair and head off to the gym. www.jaybirdgear.com


Inspired New products Classic influence

Two Timer Clock £246.98 The Two Timer clock illustrates that even with different time zones we are of one-world and according to its designer Sam Hecht: “It’s as if everyone these days has come from, or is going to, somewhere else. Two Timer is a useful expression of this modern condition, merging two different time zones into one clock.” I guess this isn’t the time, or the place, to make a gag about two-timing. www.scp.co.uk

Pure Evoke-1S Marshall £119.99 Pure have remodeled the original radio produced in collaboration with Marshall and released the DAB Evoke-1S. Nicely finished with textured black vinyl covering, rubber handle, plastic corner protectors, white Marshall logo all set off against a rather lush gold control panel. As a tie-in with the radio station Planet Rock, the default is set to that station when you turn the radio on. Does it go up to 11? Do you really need to ask? www.hmv.com


lifestyle Michelle Thompson Artwork Prints £150 These fine prints by British artist Michelle Thompson include a unique combination of mark making, collage and photography combined with digital processes. Pictured is “Everything” which can be found among many others for sale on her website. www.michelle-thompson.com

Flow sideboard by Kay + Stemmer £1995 Inspired by 1950’s design, this walnut and oak sideboard combines luxury and function with the highest standards of craftsmanship. This perfect addition to any living room may set you back a fair bit, but is worth every penny. www.heals.co.uk


Inspired Chesterfield by Squint Ltd from £4800

New products Classic influence

Want the fine luxury and comfort of a classic Chesterfield sofa, but also want to add a splash of colour? Look no further than the brighter-than-life designs by Squint, with a range of furnishings all with patchwork style finishes, guaranteed to be an eye catching addition to any home. www.squintlimited.com

Newgate Cube Clock £35 This simplistic Cube Clock with sharp lines and 60’s feel is available in black or red. It may be square but you’ll be hip with this beauty in your home. www.utilitydesign.co.uk


Inspired New products Classic influence

Reconditioned Transparent 746 Telephone £POA Originally used in telephone exchanges, there are less than 100 of these telephones in existence. If these were a bit before your time, or you just fancy a trip down memory lane then check this out: http://bit.ly/9aSCdl Yes, siree, that familiar chirp was indeed the 746 in action. www.pedlars.co.uk

Where to Darlin'? £95 Dan Innes’ work is inspired by the everyday events he encounters along with a more subversive look at depicting the current world climate we live in. This work reflects a softer side with a 30" x 23" Silkscreen signed limited edition of 50, on white textured 100% cotton paper, signed and numbered by the artist. www.artrepublic.com


lifestyle Tall Lamp on Wheel £350 There is something very English about this. It’s a slightly wonky lamp...due mainly to its height and the fact that the main pole slots into the wheel assembly. As these lamps have been assembled from various different bits and bobs, some reclaimed, some which are brand new, no two are precisely the same. So this image is only a representation of what you will receive and at Retro we like the idea of ordering this and waiting for the day when a random, rather lanky, wonky lamp turns up at our home. www.pedlars.co.uk

Kartell Masters Chair Pack of two from £216 The Masters Chair, designed by Phillippe Starck for Kartell, is a tribute to three classic chair designs, and their designers, of the twentieth century. With his own interpretation he’s paid homage to the Series 7 Chair by Arne Jacobsen, the Tulip Chair by Eero Saarinen and the DSR or Eiffel Chair by Charles Eames. www.utilitydesign.co.uk


fashion

Pin Up Lip Balms $4 Made with all natural ingredients, and available in over 40 fabulous flavours — including The Boys Love Coconut, Voluptuous Vanilla, Gimme Grape, and Peppermint Twist — these super stylish lip balms are a treat for the eyes as well as the lips. And each balm contains a conditioning formula made up of avocado oil, beeswax, apricot kernel oil and vitamin E to keep lips nourished, moisturised, and of course, sexy. www.pinupbalm.com

Buttoned lace apron £22 Fancy yourself as the queen of nouvelle cuisine, but hate to look dowdy in the kitchen? Well fret no more, ‘cos this retro-style buttoned lace and cotton pinny is the answer to all your Betty Crocker woes. Available in fuchsia pink or steely green, it will add flare to any flambé, and have you looking the very picture of cutesy kitsch. www.anthropologie.eu


Inspired New products Classic influence

Men’s Retro One Stripe shades £10.99 A treat for all you geek chic lovers out there, these chunky framed, black tinted shades are the perfect summer accessory to fight off those style-melting sun rays. And at a pinch for just £10.99, they’re not going to burn a hole in your pocket either. Genius. www.phixclothing.com


Inspired New products Classic influence

iPhone/iPod jewellery by Bless £204 Imagine if you could take your plain old, generic, white headphones, and dip them into a pool of rhinestones instantly transforming them into a functional piece of jewellery. Wouldn’t that be cool? Well, that’s exactly what the clever people at Bless have done, so take out all that cash you’ve stuck in a back drawer for a rainy day, and blow it on some bling! www.farfetch.com


fashion Vivienne Westwood quilted notebook with pencil £115 She’s trend-setting fashion royalty admired and respected the world over, so what better place to make all your detailed annotations on the latest A/W fashion collections (or just doodle) than this fabulous Vivienne Westwood quilted gold-pattern fabric notebook. Along with branded pencil and paper, and adorned with a Westwood orb, you can project both brains and beauty. Fabulous! www.farfetch.com

Men’s Babette Wasserman cufflinks £45 Neptune, £49 Fibonacci Treat yourself to a pair or two of Babette Wasserman retro-inspired cufflinks. Classically trained in jewellery design at London’s Central St Martins College of Art, Wasserman has been creating collections of exquisite jewels and cufflinks under her own label for 12 years. We think the Neptune design with its mother of pearl ‘scales’ and the Fibonacci links said to be inspired by the famous Fibonacci curve linking nature and maths are just fab. www.little15jewellery.co.uk


fashion Friday On My Mind clothing Prices vary from £25 to £90 While expanding geographically, Eucalyptus clothing has also celebrated the successful launch of its sister label, Friday On My Mind this year. Spring/Summer ‘10 has seen the 50s pin-ups and rockabilly fashion range quickly take its own identity within Eucalyptus branding. The collection has plenty of frilly dresses, shorts, playsuits and tops in denim, checks, ginghams and polka dots with details such as heart shaped pockets and buttons. The idea is to keep you going during the week with that fun expectation of a wicked Friday, dressed in sweet naughtiness. There’s no need to get the Monday blues anymore: now that there’s Friday On My Mind. www.eucalyptusclothing.co.uk


Inspired New products Classic influence

Simon Harrison jewellery Brooch £275, Earrings £75 This matching pair of Frog Prince jewellery forms part of an exciting collection from renowned costume jewellery designer Simon Harrison. The hand carved 24 carat gold Frog Prince brooch combines coloured enamels with tiny cabochon stones and Swarovski crystal. Close attention has been paid to even the finest detail, where the frog has handmade glass eyes, and on the underside the frog wears a tiny waistcoat with a shirt and bow tie. The gentle curve of the 24 carat gold Frog Prince earrings highlights the textural surface, and skilful details, including the playful crown and tiny frog on the inside. www.frenchsdairy.com

Glass intaglio and cameo four-part bracelet £465 This stunning bracelet by Anton Heunis features four cameo and intaglios set in decorative antique bronze mounts, in a similar style to the fashion made popular around 1910 by the designer Renee Lalique. The glass stones have been hand carved in Bavaria by designer Stefanie Freydont. The bracelet is handmade in Northern California, measures 20cm by 4cm and fastens with a toggle. www.frenchsdairy.com


motoring

HMC Hidalgo S

wiss Helvetic Motor Company will be using a Mercedes-Benz SLK 55 AMG as the base for the soon to be launched HMC Hidalgo. Already looking like a modern classic, with a cheeky nod to the Bugatti Type 57, the car has been designed by a team of engineers with F1 experience amongst their ranks. The Hidalgo will have a 355-horsepower (265-KW, 360-PS) V8 engine, although if you want to give it a bit more grunt you can pay extra. Only six cars will be produced annually, with a starting price of around â‚Ź310,000.


o


Aston Martin the real james Bond movie car comes up for sale at auction

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he Aston Martin DB5 driven by Sean Connery in Goldfinger is up for sale by auction. The car comes with the full complement of famous Bond ‘gadgets’, fitted by the Factory, including machine guns, bullet-proof shield, revolving number plates, tracking device, removable roof panel, oil slick sprayer, nail spreader and smoke screen — all controlled by toggles and switches hidden in the centre arm-rest. Two Aston Martin DB5s were used on screen for the production


DB5


of the timeless 1960’s James Bond classics, Goldfinger and Thunderball. The other car was reported stolen in 1997 and is believed to have been destroyed. Bond’s Aston Martin DB5 and its gadgets were the brainchild of Oscar-award-winning special effects expert John Stears, also of Star Wars and Chitty Chitty Bang Bang fame. The FMP 7B was the 'Road Car' used in Goldfinger and featured in various locations and was given substantial screen time, most notably the scenes at the Stoke Park Club and iconically when Bond was spying on Mr. Goldfinger from the picturesque Furka Pass in Switzerland.

For Thunderball, FMP 7B was to have most of the screen time, so it was fitted with the full complement of gadgets. Its specification has not changed since its appearance in Thunderball and virtually all its distinctive gadgets remain intact. Sold in 1969 to American Mr. Jerry Lee — FMP 7B’s first ex-factory and remaining owner. Mr. Lee pursued FMP 7B and eventually negotiated its purchase from the Aston Martin factory for $12,000. For a time, Mr. Lee agreed to allow Aston Martin to continue to use FMP 7B for promotional purposes in the USA. FMP 7B enjoyed record-breaking crowds at exhibitions on numerous occasions throughout the 70s, until the


car was pulled from public life in 1977. The odometer shows approximately 30,000 miles, mostly, one presumes, from its tour usage. Proceeds of the sale of FMP 7B will be used to further the charitable work of ‘The Jerry Lee Foundation’, a multi-national initiative dedicated to solving social problems associated with poverty, with an emphasis on crime prevention. RM Auctions ‘Automobiles of London’: 27 October, 2010

RM Auctions is the world’s largest collector car auction house and holds four of the five world record prices for motorcars sold at auction. www.rmauctions.com


Visual Acous


stics

All photographs by Julius Shulman, taken from Visual Acoustics, an Arthouse Films release 2009. Copyright J. Paul Getty Trust.

I

n need of vintage photos of San Francisco, Eric Bricker was led to the work of Julius Shulman. Not only did a great friendship ensue, a film of the world’s greatest architectural photographer was released, celebrating the career of a man whose images brought modern architecture into the American mainstream. Retro Magazine, in this pictorial celebration, appreciates why the film’s director was so inspired by Julius Shulman. Julius Shulman captured the work of nearly every modern and progressive architect since the 1930s including Frank Lloyd Wright, Richard Neutra, John Lautner and Frank Gehry. His images epitomised the singular beauty of Southern California’s modernist movement and brought its iconic structures to the attention of the general public. The film Visual Acoustic: The Modernism of Julius Shulman is testament to the evolution of modern architecture and as the filmmaker Eric Bricker said: “Few people have had such a profound impact on my life as he has. Two things were apparent to me upon my initial meeting with Julius in the spring of 1999. First, the photography created by the man is nothing short of astounding, and second, Julius himself is equally impressive as the work he created.”


V

isual Acoustics has picked up an array of awards since release, including the Mercedes-Benz Audience Award for Best Documentary at the Palm Springs International Film Festival, the Audience Award for Best Documentary at the Austin Film Festival, and Outstanding Achievement in Documentary Filmmaking at the Newport Beach Film Festival. As Eric Bricker’s passion for filmmaking grew, so too did his art consultation firm, Artistic Designs Unlimited, formed in 1996. It was through developing an understanding of his clients’ spatial needs and translating those specifics into original

works of art that enabled Eric to develop a greater visual vocabulary and sense of design. But it was only after discovering Shulman’s work that all the pieces of the puzzle fell into place. “Few people have had such a profound impact on my life as he. The true defining characteristic of a Shulman photograph is that vibrant, uplifting, profound energy that transcends the twodimensional space.” Prior to filmmaking Eric was active in music and theatre in St. Louis, Missouri, but with a grandmother who took him to countless films, Eric knew that Los Angeles was an inevitable


move. However, before moving to Los Angeles Eric went on to graduate from Indiana University where he received his B.A. in English Literature with a minor in Theatre. After graduation Eric spent the next few years acting with the California Repertory Company and the Utah Shakespearean Festival. Upon settling in Los Angeles, Eric turned his focus towards film and television production where he worked with such notable talent as Jerry Seinfeld, Alec Baldwin and Danny Aiello. Meanwhile, Eric explored his affinity for music, playing percussion with the likes of Lula & Afro-Brasil and Perry Farrell at Coachella Festival. It was during this period that Eric started producing and directing his own film projects that lead to Visual Acoustics. “It is an honor and privilege to work on a project possessing such depth and distinction; I do so with the


utmost passion, determination and humble appreciation. When viewing one of Julius’ ‘constructed views’ I am reminded of the potential for greatness inherent within each individual and then usually driven to a state of bewilderment knowing that within the Shulman archive is 8000+ projects dating back to 1927 when Julius started

photographing with a Brownie Box Camera. I consider Julius my mentor and my friend. The photography however is only half the story; Julius himself is the other. Distilled to its barest essence it is this: Julius is a humanist. His genuine love for people, culture and the arts preserves my 98-year-old friend as an eternal youth.”


J

ulius Shulman died last year aged 98, two and a half months before the release of Visual Acoustics: The Modernism of Julius Shulman. In an obituary, his good friend Ron Field wrote: “Driving through Los Feliz last year, I pointed out a building to him. In vintage Shulman fashion he answered, ‘You don’t need to tell me that — I know everything’.” And when it came to modern architecture nobody would argue with that. For details about Visual Acoustics: The Modernism of Julius Shulman go to www.juliusshulmanfilm.com


Monumental This Art Deco bridal shoot took place at Eltham Palace in London. The fabulous dresses including ‘Valerie’ by Sarah Arnett, ‘Kristene’ by Claire Pettibone and two dresses by Olivia Couture were provided by Blackburn Bridal and were all chosen to reflect the Art Deco nature of the building and the shoot.

Photographer: Sarah Gawler Make up: Adjhani Barton Hair: Nathan Gooding


Occasion


d

escribing her thoughts behind the shoot, Sarah Gawler says: “There were a few motivations for the shoot. I wanted to show off the Art Deco design of the Eltham Palace and I felt that our model’s look really encapsulated the decadent spirit of the 1920s which was perfect. The dresses were also chosen according to the venue with the exception of the Olivia Couture swirl dress, which was shot in an Italian style room adjacent to the iconic circular entrance hall. The soft, vintage styled bouquet worked well with all the dresses and the final shots with the black bobbed wig were an homage to Louise Brooks, the Art Deco pin-up herself!”


Modern English

Photographer: Simon Eldon Hair & Make Up: Adjhani Barton Models: Jaime Docherty at BM Models and Duncan Copeland Venue: Rock & Roller - www.rock8roller.co.uk


Brown Check Suit £325, Button Down Collar Shirt £45, Slim Silk Tonik Tie £19 all by Adam of London, available from Adamoflondon.com


Tonik Suit £350, Button Down Collar Shirt £45, Silk Tie £19 all by Adam of London available from Adamoflondon.com


Navy Monkey Jacket by Madcap England £34.99 available from AtomRetro.com; White Polo by Ben Sherman £40 available from Scootssuitsandboots.com; Bukta Flight Bag by Bukta Vintage £28.99 available from AtomRetro.com


on left) Sunday Morning Polo by Madcap England £34.99; (on right) Saturday Morning Cardigan by Madcap England £39.99. Can also be purchased as a two piece matching set at £64.99 from AtomRetro.com


Racing Coleridge Turtle Neck Jumper by Madcap England £39.99; Cavern 59 Black Jeans by Madcap England £29.99. Both available from AtomRetro.com


Chequered b/w Shirt by Ben Sherman ÂŁ50 available from Scootssuitsandboots.com; (on right) Purple Knightsbridge Shirt by Madcap England ÂŁ34.99 available from AtomRetro.com


Photo: Merry Phillips


Headline Act T

heatrical milliner, Uma Turan, began by studying etching and sculpture, but due to her love of fabric and jewellery, moved on to study theatrical millinery with Jane Smith. She completed her formal education in millinery at the Kensington and Chelsea College, and then went on to work for two years with celebrity milliner Stephen Jones whose work is represented in the permanent collections of the Victoria & Albert Museum and the Louvre, and who has collaborated with Vivienne Westwood, Jean-Paul Gaultier and John Galliano for Dior. Today Uma works from her studio in London, and is dedicated to creating bespoke pieces for weddings, the races and social occasions; working with clients to ensure each piece is as unique as it is astonishing.


Retro: Who or what are your main inspirations when it comes to design?

Uma: I love the 1950's glamorous look. When I make a hat I always imagine that era's models like Dorian Leigh, Dovima or Georgia Hamilton wearing my pieces. When I design I get inspired by anything that makes me happy and excited, or sad and thoughtful. Love, emotions, friends, art, travelling, history, flowers, objects, (particularly special jewels and gold work), photographs, opera, music and more... it can be anything

Retro: Which design are you most proud of, and why?

Uma: I love my theatrical designs as you can use the traditional millinery techniques, as well as adding new ideas to the piece.

Retro: Your pieces are often bold and striking, is it your aim for your hats to surprise, even shock? Photo: Sophie Pycroft

Uma: I do love surprises myself so I do love surprising others as well. I hope in a nice way!

Retro: What is your most daring hat to date, and who/what was it for?

Uma: I designed the most beautiful hat for one of my clients, which was totally made out of crystals. I think that was the most daring hat ever. Very recently I made a giant Napoleon Hat for great British interior designer David Carter. Retro: Stars, such as Lady Gaga, have championed fashion that pushes the boundaries. Do you think there is a current revival in theatrical clothing and self-expression via fashion?

Uma: I do think there will always be relation between expressing yourself with fashion. I think people will always use traditional and past with new and now!

Retro: If you had to design a hat to wear that

reflected your own sense of style, what would it look like?

Uma: I love 1950's style button winter berets. Retro: Which era do you think best celebrated the hat and why?

Uma: Until the end of the 50s hats were always celebrated and worn by nations. I think in the last couple of years hats have again made a comeback into daily life. In addition to weather conditions, I think recent theatrical music videos also makes a huge impact on young fashion followers.

Retro: What are your favourite types of materials


to you work with, and are there any limitations?

Uma: I work with a variety of materials. Absolutely no limitations! I absolutely love working with silk, felt, diamontes and crystals.

Retro: Are your hats more art than fashion? mostly on the formal line. This summer I made lots of smart and fun sun hats as well as hats for weddings and races. Some of my pieces are far too theatrical to be worn but those rest on hat blocks in my studio that clients normally try on for fun, sometimes asking for a toned down version to wear. But you can definitely put it on a old hat block and keep it as an artwork.

Retro: You've worked with the likes of Jane Smith and Stephen Jones — what did you learn from that experience?

Photo: Ksenia Belash

Uma: I think some of my hats are wearable but

Uma: Absolutely everything I know. They are wonderful living millinery legends. Also my first teacher was the wonderful Kirsten Scott, who was a milliner for Karl Lagerfeld for many years, and I learned many feather techniques from Ian Bennett who worked on plenty of Queen's hats. I am a very lucky person to know such amazing tutors.

Retro: If you could design a hat for anyone in the world, who would it be?

Uma: I would love to make a hat for 1950's supermodel Dovima. I think she would carry them rather well.

Retro: If you weren't a theatrical milliner, what Uma: I can see myself as a potter. I love drawing Iznik Ceramic patterns. To see more of Uma’s work visit:

www.umaturan.com

Photo: Sophie Pycroft

would you be?


QUEEN OF HEARTS Retro’s roving reporter, Nadine Sharma, experiences a curiouser and curiouser Saturday afternoon as she unlocks the door to a veritable vintage wonderland

L

ast Sunday morning — and not for the first The invite promised an afternoon of “fun, time — I woke up and thought I was a bit of fashion and frivolity” for girls who’d like some a tart yesterday. In fact, I was a lot of a tart. vaudeville glamour in their lives, but also came Actually, I’ll be totally honest with you, on with the slightly intimidating dress code of “Drop Saturday between the hours of 2 and Dead Gorgeous”, further qualified by 6pm, I was a complete tart. “I’ve fallen “absolutely no jeans or you will be sent It’s not usually something I so readily home in tears”. Yowsers. So, dressed to down a rabbit impress admit to, but I’m going to share the even the most discerning of whole experience with you because it hole in the Glamazon bouncers, I tottered was delicious, delightful and achingly purposefully up Mile End Road. middle of fabulous. The event was sold out, as always, to Tart is a monthly event held at East London, a galaxy of femme fatales ranging in London’s prestigious 40 WiNKS hotel age and reason for being there, and it feels — a venue paid no small compliment including a hen party, a 40th birthday celebration and a mother and daughter by German Vogue for being the “most great” beautiful small hotel in the world”. It’s day out. Some had even travelled from as far afield as Milan just to attend this event hosted by a holy trinity of glamour: David Carter, — so my intrigue was well and truly piqued. interior designer extraordinaire and society All of a sudden, Master of Ceremonies, David dandy; sumptuous pin-up queen Fleur de Guerre; Carter, burst through the front door, asked us and Vintage Secret’s Naomi Thompson.


outright if we were all tarts, and then grandly recently) had tailor-made a decadent spread of welcomed us in. I felt a sudden rush of bling to smoked salmon and cucumber sandwiches, the head as I excitedly bobbed in and out of cakes, sweets and treats. All delicious. lavish rooms filled with sparkly jewellery, But that was just the icing on the cakes, literally. heavenly hats, vintage dresses and more The entertainment alters each month, and this make-up than a girl could dream of. It’s that initial time we found ourselves being dolled up by sense of disorientation muddled with anticipation professional make-up artists from catwalk that adds to the magic of Tart. All of a sudden, favourites GlamSpot Cosmetics — a range of you’ve fallen down a rabbit hole in the contemporary powders and glosses middle of East London, and it enriched with vitamin E and jojoba oil “David feels great. that treats your skin on the outside and Carter asked in! And if 40 WiNKS is the rabbit hole, Vintage hairstylists, Lipstick and then David Carter is definitely the Mad us outright if Curls, gave us all a ‘do’ Bettie Page Hatter. Naughty, flirty and fun, he would be proud of, as well as the we were all dishes out compliments as though they chance to dress up in an array of were sweets, and lets loose his acerbic gorgeous vintage outfits. tarts” tongue whenever he sees fit. All in all, Then it was on to the tongue-in-cheek the perfect host for a surrealist’s pleasurable educational element to the afternoon, which has Saturday afternoon. previously seen ex-Diary Editor of Tatler, Liz Each ticket costs £80, which is a fair old chunk Brewer, giving a talk on how to achieve the of a girl’s hard-earned cash, so I was keen to see perfect kiss. Oo-er missus! We had Fleur De Guerre expounding the various ways we can be exactly what Tartlets get for their money. For more ‘vintage glamorous’ in our everyday lives, starters, each guest has access to unlimited followed by a Hendrick’s Cocktail Making cocktails specially created for the event — we Masterclass, which taught even the had a yummy concoction of gin, elderflower and mixologically-challenged amongst us how to pressed apple juice. The truly brilliant outfit make the best Tom Collins in the land. Vintage Patisserie (you may have seen Dragons Renowned angelologist and author, Angela Theo and Deborah wowed by them in the Den


McGerr, was on hand to give guests angelic life guidance. And as if saving the best for last, the top floor was transformed into a pampering boudoir where massage specialists, Xhilarate, worked their extraordinary magic using gentle manipulation and acupressure techniques. Tart also attracts some fab up-and-coming retro designers so you can check out and buy jewellery, hats and accessories from the likes of Passionate About Vintage, Pauper and Plush and theatrical milliner Uma Turan — all doing new and exciting things with vintage components. Amongst the mayhem, I found time to catch up with the co-hosts and founders of the event to find out why they felt there was a need for Tart. “We wanted to create an event where ladies could have a fabulous afternoon,” says David. “No-one has much time to pamper themselves any more. Tart is a celebration of glamour, style and of being a woman.” And then he said something that really rang true: “Women today are career-orientated and ambitious. But sometimes, showing your womanly side can be seen as a handicap, a declaration of weakness. Tart is somewhere you can come to be self-indulgent, frivolous and unashamedly girly.” And it’s true. The last time I’d been this girly and

FLEUR DE GUERRE’S 

VINTAGE GLAMOUR TIPS • A great cheat is to use Babyliss Hot Sticks to create those fantastic 40’s curls — they take 20 mins as opposed to the old-fashioned pin curls or rollers that would have to be in for hours, or even overnight. • The Red Lipstick Test — as a general rule of thumb look at the veins on the inside of your wrist. If they are purple, you have a warm tone and should go for pinky reds. If they are green, you have a cool tone and should aim for the orangey reds. • Seamed stockings add vintage glamour to any outfit, and Fleur is a big fan of ones with a nude seam if you want to wean yourself onto them, rather than going straight in at the deep end with the black seam.


playful I was seven years old, and wildly rummaging through my friend’s make-up and dressing-up box with very little success. But in my everyday life, there is something that holds me back from wearing girly hats, high heels, a bright red lippy or dazzling accessories. Tart gave me the excuse I’d spent 23 years looking for — to spend four solid hours on nothing else. Not being an exponent myself, I wondered what it was about the vintage look that got people so hooked. Talking to Fleur, who told me her previous incarnations had included punk and rockabilly, I understood she saw vintage as another way to break out of the norm: “Being immaculately dressed is a way of rebelling in some ways. People are fed up of the wash & go, tousled hair and smudgy eyeliner look. I just want to look pristine.” As the afternoon drew to a close, I wandered round the house picking up my belongings that I’d strewn all around like an impulsive teen during my transformation process, and said goodbye to

my fellow Tarts. I could see they’d loved every minute and they looked fantastic. They told me the best thing about the day was being able to escape from the outside world and just grab some time to themselves. All in all, by the end of the four-hour experience, you may have spent £80 but you do feel a million dollars. This Tart’s not very good at maths, but that definitely seems like a good deal to me.


Room With A W

hat do an opulent two-room town house in East London, a retro-futurist boutique in Paris, an ex-gangsters’ haunt in New York and an exquisitely renovated Art Deco hotel in Prague all have in common? Well, they’re all pushing the boundaries of what

to expect from your stay on a weekend city break. Retro Magazine delves into its little black book of favourite haunts and showcases some outstanding hotels that won’t leave you feel dirty after a weekend on the tiles.


Image supplied by Design Hotels

View


Images supplied by The Bowery Hotel


T

he Bowery’s 130 opulent rooms, stylish lobby and 24-hour room service don’t betray a neighbourhood where punk rock and gangsters once ruled, but this hotel, synonymous with the area, comes with a colourful history. In 1945 hotel manager Bowery Bill (Shipp), funded by the Barzini crime family, commissioned hitman Aldo Trapani to whack some troublesome guests (makes note not to oversleep at this

New York hotel!). After a successful hit Trapani was given a percentage of the hotel's earnings and bought a hotel room on the second floor for $20,000. In 1955, Corleone-family associate Marty Malone thought there was an informant in the hotel leaking information to the FBI. He eliminated the agent, who was guarded by several Barzini thugs, before being revealed as a traitor himself.

For further information about The Bowery visit: www.theboweryhotel.com


Paris T

he overall effect at Kube Hotel is of an oddly comfy space capsule. Tucked into a quiet street at the summit of Paris’ Montmartre, Kube fits into a Jacques Tati vision of modernity. 1960s sci-fi themed furnishings and décor are punctuated by a cavernous lobby-cum-restaurant-cum-bar at the heart of Kube Hotel with a futuristic, low-lit space and high ceilings, stainless steel accents and a state-of-the-art-sound system camouflaged in red ceiling lanterns. The "Ice Kube" bar on the mezzanine features Eero Aarnio’s 1968 Bubble Chairs and a vodka-only drinks menu. The 26 guestrooms and 15 suites have room access controlled by biometric-fingerprint technology as well as beds lit from beneath, giving a slightly unearthly edge to the warmth. For further information about Kube Paris visit: www.designhotels.com


Images supplied by Design Hotels


Images supplied by 40 WiNKS


L

London

ocated in vibrant and trendy East London, David Carter’s home is an elegant and historic four storey Queen Anne townhouse built in 1717. David is an internationally acclaimed interior designer with his extensive work generating hundreds of editorial pages in leading interiors magazines worldwide. With two guest bedrooms, 40 WiNKS, is being launched to help give photographers, stylists, art directors, designers, buyers, models and anyone in the creative and fashion industries somewhere fun and different to stay when they are in London for work or pleasure. The concept is simple. To offer a ‘home from home’... a place where you can hang your hat or park your suitcase while enjoying a little bit of understated opulence and a large dose of quirky style, all at a very affordable price. But be warned dahlings, if you want to stay here during fashion week, you’ll have to book early! For further information about 40 WiNKS visit: www.40winks.org


Prague O

riginally built in 1914 the Prague Imperial Art Deco Hotel has recently been restored to its former glory providing Art Deco lovers a treasure trove of features combined with superb accommodation in 126 luxury, high-ceiling rooms and suites. The hotel is situated in the heart of Prague’s historical, UNESCO-protected city centre, only a few steps away from the Municipal House and a short walk from the Old Town Square. Prague Imperial Art Deco Hotel was awarded membership of World Hotels Deluxe Collection — a select group of highly distinctive properties around the world recognised for excellent services and exclusive ambience.

For further information about Prague Imperial Art Deco Hotel visit: www.hotel-imperial.cz


Images supplied by Prague Imperial Art Deco Hotel


Field of Dre C

hris Haddon and Jane Field-Lewis were musing over their shared love of retro caravans at a farm in Sussex, England (where they store their caravans), when the idea for the book My Cool Caravan was hatched. Chris, a multi-disciplinary designer with almost 20 years experience, has a 60's Airstream caravan he has converted into his studio in the garden, plus a 70's Airstream and a 70's

European caravan which are both used for short breaks with his partner and two young children. Jane Field-Lewis, a London based stylist, working in film and photography, is co-owner of a 70’s caravan which she has re-styled in a retro-modern mix. Retro Magazine, always keen on a bit of ‘glamping’, picks out a selection of our favourite images from the book.


eams

The Caravan Club set itself a brief to design an environmentally friendly caravan to put the green into caravaning. The club started with a European Airstream and installed a wealth of energy-saving features and recycled materials. Power is delivered via roof-mounted solar panels, hot water through a wood burning stove and stored in a Harley Davidson fuel tank, all finished off with a composting toilet. Photograph by: Hilary Walker


Photograph by: Hilary Walker

Shasta started out making trailer homes for the US armed forces in 1941 and by the mid-50s the boom in mobile homes and travel trailers made Shasta one of the most popular brands due to their good value and low costs. However, by the latter half of the 20th Century the brand had all but disappeared. In 2008, a modern but retro-styled Shasta Airflyte caravan with a state of the art interior and trademark wings, had been re-introduced into the market. Photograph by: Hilary Walker


Photograph by: Chris Haddon

Dutch manufacturer Mostard produced caravans from 1959 until the late 70s. They are collectors’ items, particularly in Holland, with clubs devoted to them. The owner of this van, Neil, spotted it in an outbuilding in Holland. “It was completely untouched. The owner had no intention of getting rid of it but after some persuasion he agreed to sell it to us. It has since gone undergone a complete and sympathetic restoration. I have carried out some research and have found this could be the very first of its kind.”

Photograph by: Chris Haddon

My Cool Caravan by Jane Field-Lewis & Chris Haddon celebrates the new wave of interest in modern-retro caravanning. Published by Pavilion RRP: £14.99 www.anovabooks.com


Retrospective

Martyn Ware Martyn Ware was born in 1956 in Sheffield, UK. In 1978 he formed The Human League, then after leaving the band, he formed the production company/label British Electric Foundation and Heaven 17 in 1980. Martyn has written, performed and produced two Human League, two BEF and nine Heaven 17 albums. As a record producer and artist he has featured on recordings totalling over 50 million sales worldwide, producing among others Tina Turner, Terence Trent D'Arby, Chaka Khan, Erasure, Marc Almond and Mavis Staples. Heaven 17 have announced a 30th anniversary UK tour of their critically acclaimed 1981 concept album ‘Penthouse And Pavement’ which they will perform in its entirety. Martyn is also a curator at Vintage at Goodwood and produces and presents an ongoing series of events entitled Future Of Sound in the UK and around the world.

what do you collect? I used to collect American comics; I’ve kept my collection and I’ll give them to my son and he’ll probably go: “What the hell are these?”. No, he does like them, but the funny thing is everybody is making films of them now. My collection is worth thousands because I’ve got some really quite rare things. I used to have a couple of thousand of them but I got rid of some when I moved house. I collect music but more in the MP3 format now...I’ve still got about a thousand vinyl in my studio.

was a big deal for me and he said at the end of the interview “that’s one of the most perceptive and intelligent interviews I’ve ever done about the miners’ strike” — then of course Capital Radio wouldn’t play it!! (laughs) There you go, I’ll never get played on Capital Radio again.

what is your favourite film of all time? A Clockwork Orange (where both Heaven 17 and The Human League take their name from). I’m very fond of Blade Runner and Close Encounters of the Third Kind and those type of Sci-fi films.

Do you have a 20th century hero?

what was your first job?

Tony Benn. I was asked to interview ‘My Hero’ for a Capital Radio (London) series. This was in the mid-80s at the time of the miners’ strike and we did a fantastic interview, such a charming guy, absolutely open. He said, “do you mind if I record this?”, and so I’m in his room, where he has a recording of every interview he has ever done. Obviously I’m from Sheffield so the miners’ strike

I was a trainee manager at the Co-op in Sheffield. I was paid a £1000 a year.

who is your all time favourite actor? Gene Hackman. Everything I’ve seen him in, apart from Superman, he’s been great. I really liked him in Eureka by Nicolas Roeg, which is a very underrated and underexposed film. I also


think Leonardo DiCaprio is pretty darn good, of the contemporary bunch. He’s a perfect example of it being about the roles you choose, he’s very smart about which ones he selects. I thought he was excellent in Gangs of New York.

Do you have a favourite song? It’s almost impossible but for all round magic it would be The Beach Boys’ ‘Good Vibrations’, although it’s a very close run thing with ‘You’ve lost that Loving Feeling’ by The Righteous Brothers.

Give us a record to get the place jumping? Without a doubt it would have to be James Brown and probably, there’s so many to pick from, hhhmmm I probably wouldn’t go for ‘Sex Machine’ although it is fantastic. It’s a little bit self-serving but I often put on ‘Dance Little Sister’ by Terence Trent D’Arby which I produced. That always gets people going.

And one record to chill to... I’d put on Mahler’s ‘Sixth Symphony’; it’s quite a nice counter balance to all the pop music I listen to. I’m a big fan of classical music, I go to a lot of the Proms. It’s not like I’m from a posh family, so for me everything is a bonus when it comes to classical music as it wasn’t part of my life when I was growing up. I acquired a taste for it like fine wine!

what’’s your favourite street market? The fish market at the Rialto in Venice. It’s absolutely staggering.

what’’s your favourite retro shop? Oh god, I can’t remember the name of it, it’s near Spitalfields [in London] — Beyond Retro, that’s it, I love it. Me and my daughter are always trawling through there for vintage stuff.

Have you lost anything that you really regret? My sense of naivety! No...when I was very poor and had to move flats, I did a moonlight. It’s the only time in my life I’ve done it and of course it didn’t work and I had to pay it back. Because I had done it literally overnight, at that time in the flat I had about a thousand comics and I had to leave about 700 of them and I really regret that. They would have been worth about £5K definitely a false economy...really stupid.

what’’s your favourite drink? I’ve just stopped drinking but I do have a favourite drink. It’s making me salivate just thinking about it. A Hendrick’s Gin Martini with a twist of lemon. Lovely!

what is your favourite building and why? I’m absolutely obsessed with architecture... it would have to be the Doge’s Palace in Venice, I admire it greatly.

who or what has been the biggest influence on your life? Music. It’s a bland answer but my life would have been entirely different if it hadn’t taken that path. In Sheffield I’m not sure what the alternative would have been. In the words of the great John Miles ‘music was my first love and will by last’.


artistic point of view I wrote a piece, actually this is probably my proudest moment, that was performed at the Royal Ballet — I got presented on stage as the composer by the dancers. Then you go down into the Royal Opera [House]’s archives, that’s a proud achievement for a lad from Sheffield.

If you could live in any decade, which one, and why? I’ve had a whale of a time every decade I’ve lived in. The 70s and 80s were pretty much peak time for the things I liked. But I’m very fond of the music of the 60s, not such a Beatles fan, but the late 60s more psychedelic, when America was developing with early soul and funk of bands like Earth, Wind and Fire and Charles Stepney Productions. If I had been a little bit older during that period it would have been great to see them.

Have you ever ’splashed’ the cash on something big?

where did you have your most memorable meal? I think it was when I went to Nobu for the first time. I love Japanese food. I love spicy food. I love my food, I hate the word foodie, but I guess I am one. I’m extremely knowledgeable about food, actually I would regard myself as obsessive! (laughs)

which career would you have most likely have followed if you weren’’t doing what you are today? I would have ended up being the manager at the Co-op or possibly have moved into being a computer operative although I never fancied the boring systems analysis work.

what is your proudest achievement? From a musical point of view I’m most proud of the album Luxury Gap. That’s when I think we hit our peak of innovation and excellence. From an

Yes. My apartment in Venice. It wasn’t that expensive...but I don’t drive, I don’t want a yacht or a power boat. I used to come to Venice a lot and spend a lot of money on hotels and I thought it would be fantastic....after Terence Trent D’Arby’s first album I couldn’t think of anything else I wanted except a nice flat in Venice. It was the best decision I ever made. It’s saved me a fortune in therapy! (laughs)

Is there one thing you want to do before you depart the stage?! I would like to take a year out and write a serious piece of contemporary (orchestral) music. It would be just for the joy of it. If somebody wants to support me. I need a rich patron! That would be my dream!

The Penthouse &and Pavement tour starts 22nd November. tickets available from: www.seetickets.com www.heaven17.com


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Retro Magazine Issue Five  

Classic Influence. Contemporary Style. This issue features Visual Acoustics - an award winning film about architectural photographer Julius...

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