The Intrepid Explorer - 1st quarter 2017

www.intrepidexplorer.co.za • 1st Quarter Edition 2017 R29.90 Incl. VAT

THE PILGRIM’S PROGRESS Geoff Dalglish shares his Walking Water journey

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Retracing the faithful Landy’s tracks

MAN ON A MISSION

Willie Richards’ 500kmPlus challenges

HEAD IN THE CLOUDS Running a 100-miler high in the Himalayas

ice breaker

Mike Horn’s monumental solo Antarctic crossing

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› LAND OF MYTH AND LEGEND – Ireland’s Causeway Coastal Route › PICTURE-PERFECT PARADISE – Barefoot luxury on Mafia Island › I’LL SEE YOU IN CUBA – The past and the present in Old Havana › CONTINENTAL DRIFT – How Africa Travel Week is growing tourism › LIFE THROUGH THE LENS – Wildlife photography by Ross Couper

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CONTENTS 12 06 FOREWORD

Andre Labuschaigne, Cape Union Mart CEO

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EDITOR’S NOTE

COMPETITION Win a safari getaway for two at either Jock Safari Lodge or Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, worth over R20 000!

Dream it, see it, believe it, achieve it

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A RACE AGAINST TIME In February, Mike Horn completed a monumental Antarctic crossing—a blitzkrieg reminiscent of Roald Amundsen’s 1911 trek to reach the South Pole, writes Pieter Oosthuizen

20 26 LAND OF MYTH AND LEGEND

MAN ON A MISSION

From Belfast to Londonderry, Graham Howe is enchanted by the Causeway Coastal Route— rated one of the world’s great road trips

With his 500kmPlus adventures, Willie Richards shows that anything is possible with the right amount of focus and energy, writes Simon Capstick-Dale

38 PICTUREPERFECT PARADISE

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32 THE PILGRIM’S PROGRESS Having already trekked the equivalent of more than half the Earth’s circumference, Geoff Dalglish is walking to raise awareness around critical water issues

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

Sarah Kingdom abandons her shoes and her cares on Mafia Island, part of the Tanzanian Zanzibar Archipelago

50 I’LL SEE YOU IN CUBA Laurianne Claase takes a tour of the past and the present in Old Havana

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AUT UM N EW 2017 ED IT ION

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56 IT’S BEEN A LONG ROAD Martin Pretorius looks back at the history of the iconic and beloved Landy off-roader

REVELATIONS nton Crone discovers the merits of A travelling with two wheels, a camera and a desire to connect with people

60 HEAD IN THE CLOUDS A 100-mile race high up in the Himalayas proves an irresistibly challenging way for Fiona McIntosh to explore northern India

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LIFE THROUGH THE LENS In this edition of The Intrepid Explorer, we showcase the remarkable wildlife photography of Ross Couper

70 CONTINENTAL DRIFT Africa Travel Week is growing tourism—into, within and from Africa, writes Miriam Mannak

80 ON THE WILD SIDE

News from the outdoors

88 HIT THE ROAD, JACK! The Big 5—catch a sighting of the latest motor vehicles

94 CAPE UNION MART STORE LISTINGS 95 HOWE TO TRAVEL Graham Howe gets a taste of the old tea town of Darjeeling, up in the Himalayas

RARING TO GO Come rain or snow, you can still enjoy the outdoors during the colder months—we have your winter garb and gear sorted

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96 THE LAST WORD

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Paige Watt has a great session with Alastair Thomas, lead vocalist for South African indie-rock band Shortstraw

The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

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FO R E WO RD

A change is as good as a holiday!

J

ust as we feel we’re getting into the swing of the new year, the first quarter comes to an abrupt end and the next round of holidays is upon us. Time for another step change!

Happily, we know this means it’s time to head out to enjoy the company of our friends and loved ones.

Autumn is a period of change. It’s the perfect time to find adventure; we get some respite from the extreme heat and the countryside starts its metamorphosis toward winter. Don’t let that ‘something in the air’ put you off! Explore the great outdoors while the sun’s still shining; grab a backpack and head to your local trail, or get the family together for a spot of camping. And, of course, never miss an opportunity to have folks over for a classic braai. When in doubt, get out!

Our range of outdoor clothing and garments also starts to cater for that change in season. K-Way, which is exclusive to Cape Union Mart, is South Africa’s leading brand for down jackets. Our down is ethically sourced, and the products made to high-level technical specification—available in a range of beautiful colours and unique styles.

Our business also continues to change. Cape Union Mart is growing and bringing you more stores across the country and in southern Africa. We are proud to have 250 stores across the group, with all chains showing healthy expansion. Another exciting addition to the Cape Union Mart group family is baby and children’s wear chain, Keedo.

‘Tis the season for change! Watch this space as we continue to grow. Thank you, as always, for exploring with us.

Yours in adventure,

Andre Labuschaigne Chief Executive Officer Cape Union Mart

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

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Explore

E D ITO R ’ S N O TE

DREAM IT, SEE IT, BELIEVE IT,

ACHIEVE IT

I

n the last few years, I’ve come to call two people my good mates after all the time we’ve spent together on The Intrepid Explorer collaborations and features, plus attending events and having many a long chat late into the evening. They are in a completely different stratosphere from me, having achieved exceptional accomplishments—yet they remain humble and down-to-earth.

The first has taken on nature’s elements with the rhythm of a paddle as it slices through saltwater. In March, Chris Bertish attained his goal of stand-up paddling 4 050 miles (just over 6 500km) across the Atlantic Ocean, one stroke at a time, solo and unassisted.

“I think the world needs inspiring stories; the world needs heroes,” he says. “I’m no different than any other human being.

I’m just a normal individual with an extraordinary belief in myself, a passion for what I believe is my purpose, and the courage to follow it, hopefully leaving a positive impact on the world.”

In this historic and record-breaking test of the human spirit, he endured myriad uncontrollable ocean and weather conditions, adapted to an ever changing environment, and battled mental and physical fatigue during the 93-day journey paddling an average of 70km per day, fighting off great white sharks, and facing this ‘all on his ace’. In one word: epic. (I would’ve been talking to a volleyball, à la Tom Hanks, by the end of the first week!) Chris was fuelled only by his passion for raising funds and awareness for three charities, which drove him to dig deep and keep paddling—no matter the obstacles.

I’ve just heard that, following his successful arrival in Antigua, Chris was invited to lunch with Sir Richard Branson on the billionaire’s private Necker Island. Now, I don’t really want to paddle across the Atlantic, but lunch on Necker with The Man is something I wouldn’t mind doing!

The second person I need to bow down to is my friend Braam Malherbe, who’s either battling rhino poachers and training troops on how to do so; running the Wall of China; tackling the poles in heavy snow; giving inspirational talks; or simply sitting at his haven

in Beaverlac, teaching kids about nature and the elements.

On 7 February, he embarked on a life-changing expedition, aiming to row from Cape Town to Rio de Janeiro at the start of the Cape to Rio yacht race. This is a completely unassisted row covering a distance of 6 700km, which should take Braam and his rowing partner Wayne Robertson close on three months to complete. Their motivation is raising awareness of the DOT Challenge: to leave the planet in better shape for our children.

DOT, which stands for Do One Thing, is so much more than a trend, fad or catchphrase. “These three little letters boldly aim to unite the world in the hope that, together, we can still save our planet,” says Braam.

So, if all things go according to plan—which I’m sure will be the case—in about six weeks’ time, Braam and Wayne will have emulated Chris’s absolutely incredible mission for good.

These guys truly shine at testing their mental and physical endurance, all in the name of making a difference to the world around us, particularly on home soil. I’m immensely proud and in complete awe of what they’re doing. They have proved that nothing is impossible if you believe in your cause and your own ability. The Intrepid Explorer salutes them!

Both Chris and Braam will be sharing their phenomenal feats with us in our next edition—definitely something to look forward to. In the meantime, you can donate to their causes at www.thesupcrossing.com/donate and dotchallenge.org/#funding.

Until next time, live the life of adventure! Nothing is impossible!

Robbie Stammers Publishing Editor PS: Don’t forget to like us on Facebook to get access to loads of fresh content, and download the full digital version of this edition with many extras FOR FREE via Google Play and Apple’s App Store.

Congratulations to the winner of our last edition’s competition!

Marisca Traill from Graskop wins the weekend getaway to Mpongo Private Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape, courtesy of Premier Hotels & Resorts!

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

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C ONT R IB U TO RS

Live the life of Adventure

› Simon Capstick-Dale’s love for adventure was born in a mokoro, paddling down the narrow arteries of Botswana’s Okavango Delta.

Having documented his adventures in publications ever since, his incurable itch for experiential travel has not abated—along with his obsession for collecting passport stamps. When not boarding the next flight out of Cape Town, Simon prefers to spend his time reading non-fiction, watching hours of sport, and researching prospective travel destinations. Next stop: Vietnam. › Laurianne Claase made Cape Town her home base after travelling around the world, working on a dive boat in the Red Sea, on a ferry between the Greek Islands, in a Scottish country hotel, and teaching English in Taiwan. She’s the author of Caught Out: Cricket Match-fixing Investigated (long-listed for the Alan Paton Award in 2008), as well as several guidebooks and coffeetable publications on Cape Town and Robben Island. › Geoff Dalglish is a South African author, journalist and petrolheadturned-walking-pilgrim who’s a representative of the pioneering Findhorn Foundation community in Scotland and the Global Ecovillage Network. He’s also a K-Way ambassador, overland expedition guide and finalist in the 2014 Adventurer of the Year Awards. › Anton Crone bailed on the crazy world of advertising to become a freelance journalist focusing on travel, wildlife and culture. He soon became editor of Africa Geographic and is now CEO of wilderness travel site, Safarious.com. Unwaveringly reliable, the only ball Anton ever dropped was during a rugby match at school—the memory haunts him still. › Miriam Mannak is a journalist and photographer​ based in Cape Town. She c​ overs a range of​ topics including travel and tourism in southern Africa and related issues such as the environment and sustainable social development.

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› Graham Howe is one of South Africa’s most experienced lifestyle journalists; he has contributed hundreds of food, wine and travel features to South African and British publications for more than 25 years.

When not exploring the Cape Winelands, this adventurous globetrotter reports on exotic destinations around the world as a travel correspondent, and for the weekly travel show on SAfm.

Publishing Editor ROBBIE STAMMERS robbie@intrepidexplorer.co.za Art Director STACEY STORBECK NEL stacey@insightspublishing.co.za Chief Sub-Editor TANIA GRIFFIN tania@insightspublishing.co.za Head of Advertising Sales KEITH HILL keith@intrepidexplorer.co.za Advertising Manager KYLE VILLET kyle@intrepidexplorer.co.za Advertising Sales Executive PETER SAVAGE-REID, JACKY VILLET Office Manager SUSAN BALL susan@insightspublishing.co.za

› Fiona McIntosh, a

freelance photojournalist and the editor of Nightjar Travel magazine, has an enviable life of travelling and adventuring all in the name of work. When not at her desk, she can be found out on Table Mountain hiking, rock climbing or enjoying a sundowner. She’s skied to the North and South Pole, stomped up a few continental peaks and dived the world’s most iconic dive sites. Fiona is the author of numerous books on the Indian Ocean Islands, hiking, scuba diving, mountain biking and other adventures. › Pieter Oosthuizen is a freelance journalist who metamorphosed from newspaper man into magazine travel writer. The first time he saw adventurer Mike Horn on TV in the early ‘90s, his life changed. He eventually began going solo, albeit on a much smaller scale, into remote wilderness areas and came to treasure the solitude and being outside his comfort zone. Navigating by the light of a full moon is a particular passion. › Three years ago, Paige Watt moved to Cape Town from the Kruger National Park to study journalism.

She’s passionate about the outdoors, conservation, music and culture— making her the perfect fit as intern at The Intrepid Explorer, where she’s living her dream of writing about and exploring all things South African.

Financial Manager SARAH BULUMA sarah@intrepidexplorer.co.za Social Media Platforms TACITA MCEVOY from SocialMediaNow tacita@socialmedianow.com Editorial Contributors Pieter Oosthuizen, Simon Capstick-Dale, Laurianne Claase, Geoff Dalglish, Anton Crone, Martin Pretorius, Graham Howe, Fiona McIntosh, Miriam Mannak, Paige Watt Photography Cover: Dmitry Sharomov Andrew Bruckman, Africa Travel Week, Anton Crone, Laurianne Claase, Geoff Daliglish, David Wright, Fiona McIntosh, Eric Schranz, Graham Howe, Sarah Kingdom, Simon Pierce, Shamba Kilole Eco Lodge, Mafia Island Diving, Bruno Kinross, Ross Couper, Fausto Becatti, Mike Horn, Dmitry Sharomov, Deon Maartens Photography, pistonheads.com, Land Rover South Africa, autoblog.com, quillorcapture.com, brookwell.co.uk, classicandperformancecar.com Cape Union Mart www.capeunionmart.co.za Marketing Manager: Odile Hufkie Printer RSA Litho Distribution Cape Union Mart stores MDA Distribution Media Support Services

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CEO, African News Agency (ANA): Grant Fredericks Physical address: 174A Main Road, Claremont, 7700, Cape Town Postal address: PO Box 23692, Claremont, 7735 Telephone: +27 (0) 21 683 0005 Websites: www.intrepidexplorer.co.za www.insightspublishing.co.za No article or any part of any article may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. The information provided and opinions expressed in this publication are provided in good faith, but do not necessarily represent the opinions of Cape Union Mart (PTY) Ltd, Insights Publishing or the editor. Neither this magazine, the publisher or Cape Union Mart can be held legally liable in any way for damages of any kind whatsoever arising directly or indirectly from any facts or information provided or omitted in these pages, or from any statements made or withheld by this publication.

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The malaria-free Sanbona Wildlife Reserve—with three unique luxury lodges and the seasonal Explorer Camp—is nestled in the heart of the Little Karoo, just a three-hour drive from Cape Town along Route 62. At the foot of the towering Warmwaterberg Mountains (part of the Cape Fold Belt), it boasts wide-open Karoo plains, indigenous flora and fauna, and rare

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Question: How many hectares in area is Sanbona Wildlife Reserve?

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

can relive the legend of Jock of the Bushveld as well as game drives, nature walks, birdwatching, golf and even pampering in the Relaxation Retreat.

Terms & conditions • Prize is subject to availability, between 1 July and 30 September 2017.

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• Any extra costs incurred such as transfers, Kruger Gate entry fees (for Jock Safari Lodge), beverages, telephone and laundry, spa, curios and all additional expenses not mentioned will be for the winner’s own account.

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MIKE HOR N

A

time

AGAINST In February, Mike Horn completed a monumental Antarctic crossing— a blitzkrieg reminiscent of Roald Amundsen’s 1911 trek to reach the South Pole, writes Pieter Oosthuizen

Somewhere between the fearsome coast and the distant pole, in the land of the blizzard at the bottom of the planet, a lone traveller gets a visitor from out of the blue, which makes it nearly feel crowded in the massive white expanse.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

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MIKE HOR N

I

t’s Christmas Day 2016, and Mike Horn hasn’t seen any other sign of life for ages. He still has another 1 560 kilometres to go to the South Pole, and from there more than 2 500km to the other side of Antarctica. As the season’s last explorer on foot, he’s in a deadly race against the Big Freeze, when winter may turn the mercury into solid metal.

If he’s to become the oldest person yet to traverse Antarctica without resupplies on the longest solo and completely unknown route, it’s going to require a very special effort. After a tricky arrival by sailing boat amid pack ice, there’s an added uncertainty: Will his 33m boat Pangaea be there to meet him on the other side?

In the end, according to Horn it took him just 56 days and 22 hours to man-haul and kite-ski with his heavy sled for 5 125km across Antarctica, split into two nearidentical four-week halves to and from the pole. It’s only the fourth ever solo traverse, and it’s a mere four days longer than the fastest (across 3 270km) by Australia’s Geoff Wilson, who actually postponed his attempt for the longest solo crossing at the same time and from the same area as Horn.

THE BEST LAID PLANS… Horn’s original plan was to cover 55km a day in three to four months. Since he was stuck in one spot intermittently for more than 10% of the time, due to a lack of or too much wind, his overall average of 90km per day begged the question: What the hell happened out there?

A murderous man-hauling ascent first up, then a broken ski, torn kites and sled covers, gaping crevasses, lack of wind, too much wind, blizzards and whiteouts, relentless sastrugi (sharp wave-like ridges on the hard snow surface) and soft snow, tangled lines, damaged limbs, lost equipment and the cold… Horn had yet again in his life of extreme expeditions “reached the naked soul of man”, as fellow explorer Ernest Shackleton so eloquently declared when he wrote about the godly

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beauty and the horrendously exposed toughness of it all.

Horn’s best effort was 247km in one day, but to put the whole thing in perspective, one must first look back at his coast-to-pole expedition of 2008/09, when he did 1 130km in 50 days with skis and kites. On that occasion, the then 42-yearold explorer’s kite start seemed like a rather incongruous modus operandi. He reported that “the winds had turned and I saw the opportunity… imagined myself doing 100km in one go… very excited. Ha ha, mistaken, because as soon as the kite was up, a nasty wind gust came and tangled the kite cords. It took forever to untangle… decided to use a smaller kite… as soon as it went up, low and behold, the wind died down and my opportunity was over! I sadly packed the kites away again.”

This time around, his even later arrival demanded a major change in plan. “It was definitely in my plan under the ideal circumstances [to visit the geomagnetic pole and the pole of inaccessibility, along with the South Pole],” he wrote afterward in our emailed Q&A session while he was hitching a lift to Tasmania on board the Astrolabe, a supply ship from the French scientific base station of Dumont d’Urville, where his traverse had ended.

Horn’s own boat had earlier been

ordered back to Tasmania for repairs (see sidebar). “The first challenge… getting to Antarctica, sea ice can be very unpredictable, and we took 12 days longer… to break through the ice…

We planned to arrive further to the east than what we did, due to the sea ice not breaking up in that zone. The next challenge… I had to find a new route through the mountains of Queen Maude Land, scattered with crevasses. This took me in the opposite direction to where I was planning to go from the start. [As it was] a race against time to reach the other side before winter, I kept on my route to the South Pole.”

After some very tough and dangerous sled-hauling days through those mountains, he reported via his satellite

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Horn has realised a childhood dream by crossing Antarctica in the same way as the explorers of old THIS PAGE: Battling pack ice in the Pangaea delayed the start of his epic solo journey OPPOSITE: (TOP) Finding a suitable landing place is crucial for this type of extreme traverse; (BOTTOM) The most southerly of all penguins, the emperor, seems very relaxed about man’s presence here

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M IKE H ORN

phone on Christmas Day: “I’m alone, but never lonely.” It wasn’t about the first sign of life (“It was a bird.”); he was simply carrying his two daughters in his heart in a place where the wind is both a friend and an enemy, as is the sastrugi sometimes.

Just days before reaching his first goal, “The wind was extremely cold and my hands nose, cheeks and feet suffered… Not really too keen to see buildings and people.

Maybe I should just go around the pole.”

On 9 January 2017, he arrived at the South Pole. On the same date in 1909, Shackleton made one of the bravest decisions in the history of exploration when, only 180km from the South Pole with his three companions, he concluded that he’d shot his bolt and turned around. The same thing occurred in January last year when another British explorer, 55-year-old Henry Worsley, dehydrated and burnt out, came to a final stop while attempting to be the first to cross Antarctica unassisted and without wind support. Worsley had been tracking Shackleton’s intended 1914 route, which would’ve been the first ever crossing of Antarctica. He had pulled a sled more than twice his own weight for 1 469km in 69 days, and had only 48km to go when he fell ill. He died in a Chilean hospital from complications and subsequent organ failure.

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Of his arrival at the pole, Horn reported: “It was hard work [in very light winds]. I was welcomed by an old friend I have not seen for eight years. I was going to keep going, but could not ignore this message [a note on a wall].”

The friend was British adventurer Hannah McKeand, who once held the speed record on skis from coast to pole.

She works for the support company, Antarctic Logistics & Explorations. Horn, who was not an ALE client, was the last skier out there, with the pole base closing down in three weeks. After leaving the pole, he followed Scott’s route to the Ross Ice Shelf.

In his first report on this leg, he wrote about his stopover: “I arrived late afternoon… was welcomed by Hannah and her crew… had spaghetti and meat sauce… delicious. We sat around the table and spoke about adventure and life… I had a breakfast of kings…Hannah followed me a little with her snow machine.”

Because of these meals, some may

believe he might have compromised the validity of his expedition as a solo, unassisted endeavour. Writing from the French supply boat, the imperturbable Horn reacted to my post-expedition question about this with the same attitude that characterised Amundsen’s assertiveness. “What is important is to be true to yourself and others, more than to worry about what others say and write about what you have accomplished…

Do things in life your own way, live life according to your own rules and you will always be happy. When you live life to make others happy, you will soon realise that you are not who you really are.

“I know that I crossed Antarctica solo, without resupply and unassisted. That is what matters for me. I did it my way!”

About 100km past the pole, Horn swerved to the left to avoid the Transantarctic Mountains and the well-known routes first used in polar exploration’s biggest race via the Beardmore

The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

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MIKE HOR N

(Scott) and Axel Heiberg (Amundsen) glaciers. Horn was using the narrow French-controlled corridor.

Obviously, the spirit of the first polar explorers that lies dormant in the heart of the worthy modern Antarctic adventurers is aroused each time things get tough.

Through triumph and tragedy, they still inspire. So, five weeks into his journey, Horn wrote: “Today is the 17th January— the day Scott arrived on the pole, never to return. My thoughts go out to those men, because I know how much you can suffer in this climate. It’s harsh, very harsh.

Sometimes it’s easier to die than to stay alive. I will be thinking of them…”

Horn’s Norwegian friend Børge Ousland, who completed his record-breaking solo traverse on 17 January 1997, reaching Scott Base research facility in McMurdo Sound, shares these sentiments. Ousland, who abandoned his first attempt in 1995/96 due to frostbite, believes “we still have a lot to learn from their courage and strength.

They are the true heroes of Antarctica.”

After four days of little progress, Horn was raring to go. What happened next was potentially as lethal a blow as any polar explorer can suffer: His kite took off with his sled, with Horn just “standing there, looking at all my equipment I need to survive… The kite going into that propeller mode that you can’t stop… I dived onto the sled and it was like a rodeo ride over sastrugi, with the kite going full speed downwind.

“I removed my mittens, grabbed the

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knife out of my pocket, opened the blade while the sled was trying to get rid of me, bucking like a horse! I cut the lines that attached the kite to the sled… saved the sled but gone was the kite. Luckily… [the] kite’s lines caught around them [the sastrugi]. Kite downwind, skis upwind and my mittens somewhere in between, and me sitting there in the howling wind on my sled!” He had done 85km.

It reminds one of another major Antarctic battle in 1996/97, when the then 34-year-old Ousland beat Ranulph Fiennes, the world’s best-known modern-day explorer, and Poland’s Guinness World Record holder Marek Kamiński for the feat of first-ever solo crossing. Fiennes, who believes “solo journeys in remote places are irresponsible”, was evacuated with kidney problems, while Kamiński stopped at the pole after he was nearly killed in a whiteout when his kite took off with his sled and he got struck on the head. He used a bloodstain in the snow to fix a compass bearing and later found his only chance of survival jammed against a sastrugi ridge.

Two days before Horn’s 7 February finish, he noted: “Rock ‘n’ roll all over the sastrugi in gusty winds… The sled makes it difficult when it gets caught… or you get stuck and the sled comes from behind…

At the end of the day, it feels like you have been hit by a train over and over again…”

But later he added that “I would like to thank the sastrugi for making me a better and stronger person, teaching me who

I am, teaching me there is a way through the wall; the cold for making me find resources I rarely used; the gusty wind for giving me a helping hand!”

“BURNED WITH PASSION FOR THE SOUTH” Asked about his best and worst experiences, Horn wrote back: “Antarctica is not a place where you decide what you will do—Antarctica decides for you.

Antarctica allows you to cross, or not.

It’s a harsh, unforgiving and pitiless environment of extremes. Here, being ALONE is spelt in capital letters.”

Wilson once said that “when you enter the Antarctica wilderness, you need to expect she’s gonna kick you in the balls”, and that if you go in with arrogance, “you go out in a body bag.”

Horn also explained why mental strength is a prerequisite: “There is no life on the plateau. In this environment, you cannot afford to have a low point or to

THIS PAGE: Studying the icy conditions ahead with Steve Ravussin, Horn’s Swiss compatriot and the man he’d put in charge of sailing Pangaea to and from Antarctica; Dropping anchor into frozen freshwater takes some doing OPPOSITE: Man-hauling remains the purest, most respected type of transport in polar regions—but because of the relatively small time-window before winter, it’s not possible to set long-distance records without kites

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M IKE H ORN

be overly disappointed, no matter what happens; mental control is very important.

Condition your brain for the worst, far beyond your imagination. If it does not go that far, it’s a motivation and bonus for you.

“The flip side of the coin is that Antarctica’s harshness, unforgivingness and extremes make it attractive and beautiful.

“HECTIC HERE”

When you see the beauty and not the beast, you might have a good chance of success—but you need a trained eye and mind to see it!”

Near the end of his life odyssey, in July 1916 Shackleton penned a little-known poem (which Worsley found in 2008, written in a visitor’s book of a house in Punta Arenas, Chile): “We were the fools who could not rest / In the dull earth we

was washed across the deck and would have been swept overboard had he not been clipped into the hard lines.

After some great battles with the pack “As dusk approached, a large breaking ice and the South Sea storms, Horn’s expedition boat Pangaea could not pick him wave came across the port side and rolled us over pretty good—spreaders on rear up at the end of his Antarctic crossing. In mast almost in the water, and the boom on the end, with master and ship separated, the main mast fully in the wave. Now on our both survived death-defying ordeals. side, and racing down the face, the force of On Boxing Day 2016, the crew’s journal the passing seawater blew out a good-sized entry on the ship—which has done more window. Large amounts of water began sea miles than any other vessel in the pouring into the main cabin while the crew history of exploration—read: “December, and anything not bolted down were tossed 26: Hectic here. We are 2 400 miles from like little toys.

Antarctica and 2 000 miles from our “Thankfully, the speed gained as Pangaea destination of Perth. We are about as far away from civilisation as a human can get… travelled down the wave helped the boat come back up right as it reached the “For the last 36 hours, we have been trough. Everything was wet, and there was dealing with a moderate but persistent wood and glass and shit everywhere. After a storm. Sixty-plus-knot winds and seas couple seconds to take it all in, [we] went to from 25 to 45 feet have made life on board work: cutting a piece of plexiglass to patch a precarious balancing act. This afternoon, the missing window, mopping the cabins, a powerful wave ripped a life raft off the putting the galley back together and stern. A short time later, a crew member

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left behind / But burned with passion for the South / And drank strange frenzy from its wind / The world where wise men sit at ease / Fades from our unregretful eyes / And thus across uncharted seas / We stagger on our enterprise…”

Read more of Mike Horn’s daily reports from his perilous journey at www.mikehorn.com/ pole-2-pole.

pumping the engine room.

“It is dark now, and our temporary repairs are in place—but it remains burly outside.”

When Horn saw his boat again, waiting for him in Hobart, his relief was overwhelming: “Pangaea is my home away from home,” he reported on his Pole2Pole website. “The elements of the unknown make us feel fragile and unsure of our survival; they awaken our senses and transform us into a savage animal, fighting for its own existence. That’s how I have been living for the past 96 days…

“As the challenges I faced increased in size day by day, the feeling of my fingers slowly losing grip and slipping away occupied my mind even when I was asleep. ‘Stay alert and you will survive,’ I kept repeating to myself. Now the safety net of life will break my fall… I have been told that [real] men don’t cry. I’m only human—all humans must cry! It makes you feel alive.”

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WIL L IE R IC H A RD S

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W IL L IE RIC H ARDS

Man on a

With his 500kmPlus adventures, Willie Richards shows that anything is possible with the right amount of focus and energy, writes Simon Capstick-Dale

MISSION Between his shifts on a field support vessel floating in the middle of the ocean, family man and ex-diver Willie meticulously plans his next 500kmPlus challenge—finding ever bolder ways to put the human body, mind and spirit on trial.

Photographs by Deon Maartens Photography

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I

t all began with his love of the Oystercatcher Trail between Boggomsbaai and Mossel Bay: a magnificently scenic route Willie often runs and where he spends weekends camping with his wife and 11-year-old son.

For his first 500kmPlus challenge, he would traverse this familiar route, but start further north in Mossel Bay—and, if all went according to plan, finish seven days later in Franschhoek down in the Cape.

On 15 November 2015, Willie set off on his maiden adventure, still unaware it would be the first of four 500kmPlus escapades he would embark upon over the next 12 months. The plan seemed straightforward enough: Run along the coast as close to the waterline as possible, cycle all the inland sections, and paddle between Witsand and Malgas.

Unfortunately, privatisation restricted Willie’s access to large parts of the coastline, which meant it wasn’t always possible to run along the waterline as he had originally planned. He navigated around obstacles on the coast, which slowed progress, but he arrived in Franschhoek only two days behind schedule. When he was welcomed by his family at the finish, he had cycled 365km, run 181km and paddled 35km—having covered a total distance of 581km.

He had also crossed four river mouths, the dodgiest of which nearly ended his life. “I arrived at Gouritz River mouth during high tide and was advised by my support team not to swim across. I stupidly ignored them and jumped into the water. Within seconds I was panicking as my backpack filled with water and the tide began to suck me out to sea. I went into total survival mode, swimming as hard as I possibly could, until eventually I made it to shore. I was very lucky not to have drowned!”

More than the poster boy for athletic endurance and defying the odds, Willie gave his 500kmPlus a humanitarian purpose by raising funds for Tin Can Town, which cares for neglected, abandoned and abused domestic animals in the impoverished community of Blikkiesdorp in the Western Cape. Another motivation was to show fellow South Africans that you needn’t have lots of money or equipment to explore our exquisite country.

Because Willie works on a field support vessel in the middle of the ocean for one month at a time, he has little choice but to use the breaks between 12-hour shifts in his floating office to train and keep fit. In a typical session, he runs hundreds of laps around the vessel’s helipad (just 21m in diameter), skips, and climbs up and down the stairs between decks. His core training routine also includes burpees, sit-ups and push-ups.

Although he’s undoubtedly in good shape, he admits he’s not an amazing cyclist, paddler, or even runner. “It’s almost all up here,” he says, tapping his head with a long forefinger. “I strongly believe that you only require a base level of fitness to achieve great things.

From there, you just need to push yourself harder when it feels like there’s nothing left in the tank.”

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PREVIOUS SPREAD: Beach running from Mossel Bay to Boggomsbaai THIS PAGE: (TOP) Climbing a monster of a dune after crossing the Duiwenhoks river mouth at Puntjie (BOTTOM) Swimming in the Duiwenhoks river mouth—one of three that Willie crossed during his first 500kmPlus adventure OPPOSITE: One of the many cycling legs where Willie could not access the beach

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W IL L IE RIC H ARDS

Willie has endured plenty pain and fatigue, but after traversing a total of 1 850km over four 500kmPlus adventures thus far, he says he always takes something positive out of every tough situation.

When gearing up for his 500kmPlus missions, Willie always packs lightly, taking only the bare essentials and plenty pairs of comfortable socks, which he claims are a truly worthwhile investment for aspiring adventurers.

Deon Maartens and Alfred Benz are family friends who help him prepare, and who have been alongside him on all four 500kmPlus adventures. “My support team is just great. Not only do they arrange food and accommodation but offer unconditional support and encouragement—and a good laugh when I need it most!”

A telling smirk forms on Willie’s face as he recounts one particular occasion when Maartens helped him get through an especially tough stretch: “The Highlands dirt road is a relentless climb and I was struggling with the run. Deon decided to join me for a while, holding an umbrella over my sun-beaten head while he ran alongside me. And then suddenly I noticed that Deon was butt-naked. It was so completely ridiculous that it got me over the mountain!”

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After completing his first 500kmPlus adventure, Willie had nothing further planned—until he saw an advert on Facebook for Fallen Angels: an animal rescue centre that desperately required finances to avoid closure. And 500kmPlus 2.0 was born.

The mission: to tackle the West Coast beaches in aid of animal welfare, and to clock more kilometres on foot than his first adventure had allowed.

On 10 April 2016, he started inland at Nuwerus and headed down the Olifants River toward the West Coast. He finished 11 days later in Bloubergstrand—having covered 295km on foot, 130km in the saddle and 86km paddling in his canoe. More importantly, he had successfully raised much-needed funds to prevent Fallen Angels from closing their doors for a while longer.

For Willie, this second trip harshly brought to light the unhealthy imbalance that exists between nature and humankind.

He encountered large amounts of rubbish littering our natural areas, and often stopped running to throw trash into the support team truck—before he eventually had to give up. “The solution

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WIL L IE R IC H A RD S

In the Karoo on the R355, heading into the night—unaware that he would later roll his ankle and be forced to raise the white flag

begins with teaching our kids to respect nature. We can all make a difference by doing something as easy as picking up litter on a family beach outing.”

It wasn’t long before Willie found a new dare: A section of the remote R355 West Coast dirt road between Ceres and Calvinia was the focus of 500kmPlus 3.0. This time he wanted to run—and only run—for as long as possible, without sleep. With the sponsorship of Darling Brew, he endeavoured to raise awareness for nature conservation by dedicating each long day on his feet to an endangered animal species in the Western Cape.

A little after midnight on the first day, with just shy of 100km behind him, Willie rolled his right ankle. He decided to run through the pain but, after just 5km, his left ankle started to hurt badly due to overcompensation.

At the 102km mark, he raised his white flag—still without sleep and desperate to run further, but in too much agony to carry on. “It was a huge disappointment having to quit as, ultimately, I’d failed to achieve what I wanted to.”

He took a month off to relax with his family while he recovered.

He then looked more carefully at the 646km R355 road and was excited to find no evidence that it had ever been cycled from its start in Kleinzee, to where it ends just before Ceres.

So on 12 November 2016, Willie and his good friend Rob Wilmot set out to complete 500kmPlus 4.0: a cycle-only adventure on a shoestring, camping all of the way. They kitted out their bikes

on a small budget and, without sponsorship or media involvement, concluded their cycling trip six days later, which Willie says “was a return to doing something purely for the sport and adventure of it.”

Willie has endured plenty pain and fatigue, but after traversing a total of 1 850km over four 500kmPlus adventures thus far, he says

I strongly believe that you only require a base level of fitness to achieve great things. From there, you just need to push yourself harder when it feels like there’s nothing left in the tank.

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he always takes something positive out of every tough situation.

“Humans are very resilient creatures, capable of overcoming almost anything once we put our minds to the task. What the great explorers all have in common is their belief that anything is possible with the right amount of focus and energy.”

Although nothing is yet diarised, he is eagerly looking for a new route to revisit his non-stop run without sleep—and there may also be a bigger 1000kmPlus adventure on the cards if family life and work will allow it.

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Land of

From Belfast to Londonderry, Graham Howe is enchanted by the Causeway Coastal Route, rated one of the world’s great road trips

MYTHand

LEGEND 26

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GRAH AM H OWE

If you want to stop and see all the sights, driving the coastal route from Belfast to Derry on a leisurely itinerary takes around five days. The distance is around 200km, but those scenic diversions on winding glen roads take time.

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eading north from Belfast, our first port of call was Carrickfergus, or the “rock of Fergus”.

This ancient medieval castle is strategically located at the entrance to Belfast Lough on a rocky promontory where (Protestant) King William II of Orange came ashore in June 1690 with 36 000 men on his way to the Battle of the Boyne with the forces of (Catholic) King James II. A blue plaque on the pier marks the spot—the origins of a fault line that runs through Irish history.

Carrickfergus is an awesome sight on the coastline; completed in 1242, the massive stone walls, ramparts, sea tower and batteries withstood eight centuries of invasion. This Norman castle was the bastion of the Earl of Ulster, besieged by English, French and Scottish invaders from King John to Robert the Bruce. Soldiers used tunic buttons and lead roof solder as ammunition when they ran out of bullets during one siege; and when they ran out of food, they dined on the castle dogs in the giant banquet hall.

According to legend, the chief of a war

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party approaching the coast by boat decreed that the land would belong to whoever first laid his hand upon it. One of the warriors used his sword to amputate his own right hand and lobbed it to shore to stake his claim. From the clan of O’Neill, the Earl of Tyrone (one of the ancient four provinces of Ireland) adopted the bloody red hand of Ulster as the emblem of the North, and it’s depicted on coats of arms, flags and on lintels—as well as in ornamental flower beds.

In those days, you had to bring your own cutlery and mug to a banquet, and it was common practice to wipe your mouth on your neighbour’s sleeve! You can still draw water from the pagan well, which they say has healing powers to cure ailments like leprosy.

The town of Carrickfergus is a popular destination for Irish-American tourists looking for their roots, as the parents of seventh American president Andrew Jackson came from here; his ancestral home nearby is a museum today.

Heading along the coast, we passed through Larne, gateway to the legendary nine glens of County Antrim. Every glen (valley) tells a story of Ireland’s ancient legends: from Glenarm (Glen of the Army)

to Glenaan (Glen of the Colt’s Foot) to Glencorp (Glen of the Slaughtered). Scenic byways along the causeway route lead deep into these green valleys to many enchanting destinations. We visited the “Dark Hedges”, an 18th century avenue of beech trees in Glentaisie (Glen of the Bright Sides), seen in season 2 of Game of Thrones; and Slemish Mountain in Glencloy (Glen of the Hedges), where St Patrick worked as a shepherd boy.

The green fields were filled with flowering daffodils, bluebells and a sea of yellow gorse and purple thistles. Pointing out a hawthorn hedge, our guide explained: “Farmers never cut down any hawthorns in a field, because they believe the fairies live in these forts!” A man with an inimitable sense of humour, he told us to watch out ahead for the nursery for “the little people”—an ornamental stone leprechaun garden. We were looking for little people and giants in a landscape of myth and legend.

Carved out of rock, the precipitous coastal road clings to the shore, offering spectacular views of tranquil seaside villages and bays bobbing with lobster pots, and mussel and oyster rafts. Our guide quipped, “The sea is so calm today,

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GRAH AM H OWE

you could swim across the channel to the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland. It’s only 16 kilometres across.” Passing under the wishing arch, a limestone outcrop, he said: “Quick! Make a wish to the fairies before we come out on the other side!”

We stopped for tea at Glenarm Castle (more of a grand country house, really) set on a country estate with amazing walled gardens. The oldest village in the Glens of Antrim has been the ancestral seat of the MacDonnell family for over 400 years, and today is home of the 15th Earl of Antrim.

Adrian Morrow, the curator who took us on a tour, has worked there for 35 years—and his father before him for 48 years. He exclaimed, “My whole life has been spent inside these walls. All I know lies within.”

The family motto emblazoned on the magnificent stone, “Toujours Prêt” (Always

PREVIOUS SPREAD, LEFT (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): The lava-formed stepping stones at the Giant’s Causeway; Crossing the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge near Ballintoy; The eroded cliffs on the County Antrim coastline PREVIOUS SPREAD, RIGHT (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP): Castle Ward country house overlooking Strangford Lough; A close-up of the 40 000 hexagonal basalt stones at the Giant’s Causeway; A bird’s-eye view of the causeway’s main basalt outcrop OPPOSITE: The Giant’s Causeway is the premier tourist attraction in northern Ireland THIS PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Glenarm Castle, seat of the Earl of Antrim; The ruins of Dunluce Castle, home of the MacDonnell family

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Ready), couldn’t be further from the truth, joked Morrow. “We’re always running behind!”

The interior is filled with whimsical statues and frescoes, priceless portraits of horses by William Stubbs, and a sea chest salvaged from the La Girona shipwreck of the Spanish Armada. The jewellers of Glenarm designed many of the pieces for Game of Thrones, filmed on location in Northern Ireland.

George Lynn, the earl’s butler, served us tea in silver heirlooms in a kitchen straight out of Downton Abbey. We sat down at a wake table—on which the deceased was traditionally laid out in his Sunday best, right next to the funeral tea, while the mourners commented on how well the corpse looked! Apparently, the term “wake” is derived from making sure the deceased really was dead and would not awake. One resident wanted to be buried standing up in the old graveyard, looking out to sea—but on the way up the hill, his coffin fell off the cart. He was buried head-first by mistake!

The 17th century walled ornamental gardens of Glenarm Castle are renowned for the annual summer tulip festival, when over 10 000 bulbs come into bloom; and for the Victorian hothouse that grows apricots, peaches and grapes. The picturesque old bothies (thatched cottages) once housed a team of 17 gardeners. The head gardener told us, “Ireland is one big garden. Everyone is a fanatical gardener—it’s a way of life.”

Back on the Causeway Coastal Route, I came across a delightful historical plaque

in the picturesque fishing harbour of Carnlough. Paddy was one of 30 pigeons used by the Royal Air Force during World War 2 to deliver coded messages across the Channel during the Normandy landings of 1944, setting the record for the fastest crossing of just under five hours. His owner came from Carnlough, and Paddy the pigeon was given the PDSA Dickin Medal for bravery—commonly referred to as the animal equivalent of the Victoria Cross. Paddy lived for 11 years, and is still the only Irish recipient of the medal.

At Ballycastle, we stopped at a lookout point near Rathlin Island, sanctuary to seals and nesting seabirds. This is where Robert the Bruce watched a spider spin a web in a cave back in 1306: a lesson in patience that inspired him to defeat the English at the Battle of Bannockburn.

A little further along the road, near the postcard seaside village of Ballintoy, we stopped to walk across the incredible Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge that spans the chasm between the sea cliffs and a little offshore island. You need a head for heights to cross this vertiginous swinging bridge. Fishermen used to put up the bridge every spring to cross to a favourite salmon cove. Keep your eyes peeled on the coastal path for the Devil’s coach horse—a harmless black rove beetle that raises its tail like a scorpion. You may also spot a stoat, Irish hare or red fox in these wind-blown hedges.

We were on what the Yanks call an ABC tour (Another Bloody Castle… or Church).

Just past the village of Bushmills, we pulled

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Graham tries out ye olde Celtic altar; A pub for a giant thirst—Finn MacCool’s in the village of Bushmills

off the road to visit the ruins of Dunluce Castle, the seat of the MacDonnell family in the 16th and 17th centuries, dramatically perched on a basalt crag on a cliff face.

Impregnable from attack from the sea, it was believed that part of the castle— including the whole kitchen—slid into the bay of its own accord in 1639, taking seven servants and dinner with it. But the kitchen is still intact, next to the manor house.

Myths and legends…

The cannons were salvaged by Chief Sorley Boy MacDonnell from the wreck of La Girona, which sunk in 1588 while fleeing Sir Walter Raleigh’s fleet. Hundreds of sailors (and the cream of the Spanish aristocracy) died when the ship was driven onto the rocks by a fierce storm. It was found off the coast of Portballintrae four centuries later in 1968—with priceless gold, silver and precious stones recovered—and exhibited in Belfast’s Ulster Museum.

The Giant’s Causeway, the premier tourist attraction in northern Ireland, is the main hub of the coastal route. The new state-of-the-art visitor centre has glass walls, soaring basalt columns and a turf roof, so it fits organically into the natural landscape. The interactive displays tell both mythical and geological stories about its origins.

When novelist William Thackeray visited in 1842, he described it as “a remnant of chaos … savage rock painted a hundred different colours” (lichen). Today, Giant’s Causeway is a Unesco World Heritage Site: an awe-inspiring landscape on the coast formed 60 million years ago by volcanic

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eruptions. Molten lava created these spectacular natural rock formations—over 40 000 interlocking hexagonal basalt columns in weird and wonderful shapes, from the Pipe Organ and Boot, to the Wishing Chair and Harps. You could spend a whole day walking the cliff-top path.

Like the rest of northern Ireland, Giant’s Causeway is steeped in myth, such as the legend of Finn MacCool, the Irish giant who threw down the stepping stones to make a pavement to cross the sea to Scotland, and fight a rival giant called Benandonner. When Finn fled back to Ireland, ripping up the causeway, his wife Oonagh hid him in a huge cradle with sheets, and fooled the Scottish giant into thinking it was Finn’s baby—and that his father must be truly gigantic! On my walkabout, I was told to watch out for the gruagach (red hairy fairy); Lir, the king of the sea, and the Children of Lir, who were turned into swans (inspiring the ballet classic, Swan Lake).

The exhibits also tell the stories of the kings and queens of the causeway, like Old Mary who sold water from the giant’s well, adding a tot of whiskey to her refreshment. If you want to taste the real stuff today, best visit the distillery on the outskirts of the nearby town of Bushmills.

The world’s oldest licensed distillery (granted by King James I in 1608) offers tours of its ambient old stone warehouses and twin pagodas, as well as tastings. I won a certificate for identifying the mix of Irish, Scottish and bourbon whiskies in the line-up. At times like these, experience counts.

The old coaching inn of Bushmills is one of the most atmospheric pubs in Ireland, with peat fires, gas lamps and a round tower with a secret library. There’s a collection of 300 flags in a special room—and I flew the South African one to mark our visit. The pub serves traditional Irish fare in old wooden booths in the stables. We enjoyed a gamekeeper’s lunchbox with local artisan cheeses and meats, as well as salmon and champ (mashed potato with leeks and spring onions). An ideal overnight stop with cosy rooms, and a signature hot toddy (Bushmills whiskey with lemon and cloves).

We finished the Coastal Causeway Route in Derry, “the walled city” (with its intact 17th century walls with seven gates), also known as Londonderry. It was named the first UK City of Culture in 2013, and is now simply called “Legenderry” by the locals! I crossed over the spectacular Peace Bridge built over the Foyle River, intended to improve relations between the (Protestant) east bank and (Catholic) west bank.

The causeway had taken me on a journey into the past, through a landscape of legend, of little people and giants, chiefs, clans and castles, Bruce’s spider and Paddy the pigeon, the Spanish Armada, and the red hand of Ulster… What a road trip! You couldn’t make this stuff up.

Graham Howe visited northern Ireland as a guest of Tourism Northern Ireland. For more info, see www.discovernorthernireland.com and www.nationaltrust.org.uk

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GE OFF D A L G L I S H

Having already trekked the equivalent of more than half the Earth’s circumference, Geoff Dalglish is walking to raise awareness around critical water issues

pilgrim’s

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PROGRESS

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GEO FF D AL GL ISH

What would possess anyone to brave heatstroke and choking dust storms to trek willingly through California’s punishing Mojave Desert at a time of crippling drought?

Photographs by Geoff Dalglish and David Wright

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hy choose parts of a route unadorned by life-sustaining rivers or streams, which passes perilously close to Death Valley and relentlessly shadows an ugly pipeline and series of soulless concrete channels? Why not a more scenically uplifting option like the iconic Pacific Crest Trail immortalised in the film Wild with Hollywood’s beloved Reese Witherspoon?

You could argue that the route chose us. And following the waterways, natural and man-made, was the very point of the exercise when a motley international group answered the call of Walking Water.

It’s their urgent response to the global need to create a new relationship with water and each other. Let’s face it, the way we’ve been using, abusing and polluting water isn’t smart! And yet it’s happening almost everywhere, with devastating consequences.

So, our plan was simple enough: We’d walk from the source of the waters high in the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains to the place of end use—the Greater Los Angeles Area that’s home to some 18 million thirsty souls. And we’d do it in

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three sections, three weeks at a time over three years, completing the final leg in October this year.

We’d walk and listen, talk and learn, gathering stories and withholding judgements while inviting all players to share their pieces of the puzzle.

This pilgrimage is the inspiration of English-born Kate Bunney, and her vision has attracted peace activists, environmental campaigners, filmmakers, photographers, farmers, local entrepreneurs, musicians, artists and Native Americans who are the original protectors of the land and its waters.

“It’s not a march. It’s not a demonstration,” Bunney has assured repeatedly. “Rather, Walking Water brings together role players from all walks of life, including representatives from the indigenous tribes who are the first people of the land. Hopefully, with ancient and modern knowledge we can co-create healthy ways of being in relationship to water and each other.

“Walking Water attempts to connect that sacred path of pilgrimage—our internal relationship to ourselves— with our relationship to our external environment. We walk toward a vision of a regenerated environment, revolving

PREVIOUS SPREAD: The haunting Mono Lake— our starting point—owes its otherworldly colours to evaporation and high levels of salinity THIS PAGE, TOP: Walking Water pilgrims are trekking from high in the Sierra Nevada to Los Angeles THIS PAGE, BOTTOM: California has been in the grip of the worst drought in recorded history OPPOSITE, TOP: Walkers have been following the LA Aqueduct and pipelines without actually seeing water for many days on end OPPOSITE, BOTTOM: Sunbaked earth tells the story of enduring drought

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GEO FF D AL GL ISH

We are of one mind, sharing a common love of our Earth and her lifesustaining waters, and feeling deep pain when we witness needless destruction.

around a simple bottom line: for the enhanced protection of all life.”

Already I believe I’m witnessing a wonderful healing taking place. Walking Water is a prayer as much as a political or ecological action, and I’d like to imagine it’s being heard.

No matter how exhausted we may be at the end of a day’s walking, we circle up in the time-honoured Way of Council, offering a sharing and caring way for

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all voices to be heard and respected.

Seasoned community activist and Walking Water co-leader Gigi Coyle invites the uncomfortable questions as a path to authenticity and healing.

A bottling plant owned by a multibillion-dollar corporation is sucking precious springs dry and exporting its products, and yet its representatives are invited to participate and contribute their stories. They ignore the invite.

Among us are some with every right to be angry or embittered, or mired in feelings of despair and hopelessness.

The land we walk is stained with blood and tears. Historians point to two major events that precipitated an ocean of pain and heartbreak: One hundred and fifty years ago, white settlers arrived and erected fences, cutting off the tribe’s seasonal life with water, food and place.

This led to confrontations and, ultimately, to the forced displacement of the tribes who’d lived sustainably in the region for thousands of years. Today, this is mourned as yet another trail of tears that has claimed so many lives. Then, a century ago, it was the turn of both the tribes and local settlers to suffer as the waters were purchased secretly and then diverted from the Owens Valley to the fast-growing city of LA. Using an aqueduct and pipelines, Los Angeles pulled off the audacious theft of an entire river, sparking the bitter California Water Wars. They inspired the acclaimed 1974 movie Chinatown, starring Jack Nicholson and Faye Dunaway, and the true story is no less dramatic. It’s one of political corruption and intrigue, of billion-dollar struggles over water rights, of ecological and economic disaster—and of dizzyingly

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ambitious engineering feats, as parts of the desert were transformed into a green Eden (at least for a while).

Humans are clever at moving water around but, inevitably, there’s a heavy price to be paid somewhere.

We need to let the waters flow naturally, and I delight in the fact that FLOW is a clever acronym coined by filmmaker Steven Starr: For the Love of Water. He has created a powerful and disturbing documentary also titled Flow.

now… it’s too fresh. My emotions are still too raw!” It seems we pilgrims are of one mind, sharing a common love of our Earth and her life-sustaining waters, and feeling deep pain when we witness needless destruction.

Looking around at the tanned faces of my fellow travellers, I’m struck by the fact that we’re not here by chance. Each person has something important to contribute, be it an idea or a way of tackling life without fear or compromise.

of the worst airborne pollution in the United States.

Now I eagerly await the resumption of the third and final leg of Walking Water, when we’ll head into the city, walk along the LA River, engage in urban water sustainability projects and eventually arrive at Long Beach.

Perhaps the greatest gift so far has been the people with whom I walk. Alan Bacock, the water co-ordinator for the Big Pine Paiute Tribe, teaches me about

Often, we pilgrims are profoundly moved by the stark beauty of the landscapes.

Stepping out day after day at the pace of our ancestors, it’s easy to feel awed by the magnificence of nature that has inspired so many visionaries. It was Albert Einstein who observed: “The legs are the wheels of creativity,” and “Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.” Hippocrates noted that “Walking is man’s best medicine,” while philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche insisted: “All truly great thoughts are conceived while walking.”

My own creative juices flow freely; even after the most punishing of days, I feel an urge to blog—my emotions sometimes mirroring those of singersongwriter Sarah Nutting, who paints beautiful word pictures, bringing them to life with a voice that plucks at our heartstrings.

Once, at the end of a long gutwrenching day, I wrote a blog titled “Trail of Tears” and Nutting independently created a song with the same name and sentiments. Later, when she started singing it to us, the tears stained her cheeks and she stopped strumming her ukulele. “I’m sorry,” she apologised. “I can’t sing this

Invariably, there are between 40 and 50 of us at any one time, although fewer than a handful will complete the full distance from source to sea. Many are unaccustomed to long-distance walking— and suffer. The campsite sometimes resembles a mini field hospital as blisters and aches and pains are administered to.

We all have our challenges. One night I’m invaded by a squadron of blood-thirsty mosquitoes, my self-inflating mattress punctures, and the clouds of smoke from drought-induced fires are no holiday for this asthmatic!

Hey, no one said this was going to be easy.

But I’m in my element. I’m into my rhythm and loving each step. Loving the camaraderie and sense of shared purpose. And loving the uniqueness of each amazing individual.

Already we’ve reached The Cascades, where the aqueduct brings the waters of the Owens Valley to the city’s doorstep, with water chief William Mulholland famously declaring in 1913: “There it is.

Take it!” And take it they did, sucking the giant Owens Lake dry. Within a decade, it was a dustbowl that became the source

LEFT TO RIGHT: One of the interesting people I’ve met on this walk, Rajendra Singh (right) is known as the “Waterman of India” for helping to bring water to countless parched rural villages in his home country; Some days our campsite resembled a mini field hospital as walkers attended to blisters and injured feet; Walking Water pilgrims circled up every morning and evening in a way that honoured representatives of the indigenous tribes

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a more reconciliatory approach to life, especially coming from a valley of often extreme viewpoints. Its sparse population includes indigenous tribes, survivalists, cowboys, hunters, fishers, miners, devout Christians and countless employees of the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power that controls water rights hundreds of kilometres away from the city.

While his own Paiute ancestors were driven to starvation by the arrival of the white settlers, and further compromised by the theft of the Owens River, he has also lived in the city and insists: “I love the people of LA!” Visit www.walking-water.org and www.earthpilgrimafrica.com for further information.

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Shamwari Game Reserve T: +27 (0)42 203 1111 | E: reservations@shamwari.com

paradise Sarah Kingdom abandons her shoes and her cares on Mafia Island, part of the Tanzanian Zanzibar Archipelago

PICTURE-PERFECT

Photographs by Simon Pierce, Bruno Kinross, Mafia Island Diving, Shamba Kilole Eco Lodge

S ARAH KIN GD OM

Mafia Island is a truly ‘off the beaten track’ experience, the ideal destination for people seeking an exclusive but low-key Indian Ocean retreat. This is barefoot luxury at its very best.

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D

ar es Salaam’s airport is not exciting at the best of times, but at 4h30 in the morning, once we had passed through immigration and been ejected into the airport concourse, the only sign of life was a lady sweeping and emptying rubbish bins. It felt like we had arrived in a post-apocalyptic world. The handful of shops were all closed and we had to spend an hour or so sitting on the stairs outside the airport, waiting for the only ‘restaurant’ to open its doors, until it was time to check in for our short flight to Mafia.

We knew, however, that this would be our last time ‘roughing it’ before we got to the laid-back luxury of the island, so not even having to make our breakfast snack last for four hours could dampen our spirits.

Our seemingly endless wait over, we boarded our flight for the short hop to Mafia. Only four of us got off when we touched down, and were driven the 14-kilometre stretch of tar (the only ‘sealed road’) to the Mafia Island Marine Park gates where we signed in and paid for our permits. This was our last taste of officialdom; shortly we would abandon our shoes and our cares, barely thinking of civilisation again until it was time to leave.

Mafia Island has nothing to do with the Mafiosi; it most likely got its name from the Arabic word morfiyeh, meaning “archipelago”, or possibly from the Swahili mahali pa afya, meaning “healthy dwelling place”. In fact, in precolonial times the island was known to the Portuguese and British as Monfia, and it was only after Germany took control of the island in 1890 that the spelling change to Mafia.

The archipelago lies just south of the equator and comprises a group of islands, atolls and tidal sandbars scattered in the Indian Ocean off the coast of the Rufiji Delta in Tanzania. The largest of these islands is Mafia itself, which is about 50km long, 15km across and surrounded by a barrier reef teeming with marine life.

It’s a virtually unknown destination.

Picture-perfect beaches and incredibly diverse marine life make it a diver’s paradise.

With a total population of about 40 000 and

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annual tourist numbers in the region of 4 000, the island is one of the safest and quietest places in the Indian Ocean, virtually devoid of crime and free from the crowds and hustlers who can ruin one’s holiday.

The Mafia archipelago is home to antiquities and ruins ranging from a barrel-vaulted mosque built in the 15th century to a number of well-preserved buildings of the latter half of the 18th century. Relatively recently, a discovery was made of what appears to be a sunken city off the coast. Some believe this could be the remains of a Portuguese fort that was washed away by the sea some time in the mid-1800s; though one researcher suggests it could be the ruins of the ancient city of Rhapta, dating back to pre-50AD—but extremely unlikely.

Mafia has something for everyone.

If you want to lie on a beach and do nothing, then you’re most welcome to; we met a French honeymoon couple doing just that! The newlyweds appeared to spend their time basking in the sun, with the occasional break to head out on a sunset cruise, an introductory scuba diving course or the occasional pampering massage.

My husband, unlike the French honeymooners, is ‘allergic’ to lazing on the beach; sitting aimlessly on the sand makes him restless. Fortunately, between boat trips, snorkelling, scuba diving, watching baby turtles hatch, a walking tour of a nearby island, long beach strolls and more, we were kept very active. (Don’t get me wrong, though: Mafia is the perfect place

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to relax and unwind. My husband rapidly got into the habit of post-breakfast naps, post-lunch naps and even some predinner naps, while I occupied myself with some early-morning beach runs and yoga.)

Almost half the coastline of Mafia, about 822km², was gazetted as the first marine park in Tanzania by the Government in 1995. The Mafia Archipelago and the Rufiji Delta form one of the most interesting and diverse marine ecosystems and coral reefs in the world. The area is considered an important habitat for endangered species like the dugong and a variety of turtles. This makes for some of the finest snorkelling and diving sites in the Indian Ocean, and beds of seagrass and the open waters around the islands support some of the world’s most endangered marine life.

Given its location and the presence of the marine park, the bulk of activities on Mafia Island are centred on or around the water. Most of the outstanding dive sites lie within Chole Bay, a vast circular enclave of over 50km², off the southeast coast of the island, where the water depth ranges from 5m to 27m. With the tides, Chole Bay empties and refills every six hours, and it’s this continuous exchange of water that has kept the bay a haven and protected the coral from damage and coral bleaching by El Niño, which obliterated corals in other parts of the Indian Ocean in 1998.

Over 50 genera of coral, more than 460 species of fish and five different species of turtles have been recorded in the waters around Chole Bay. There are excellent examples of giant table corals, delicate

sea fans and whip corals; huge stands of blue-tipped staghorn corals; and large predatory fish and turtles are common— and surprisingly unruffled by the appearance of approaching divers.

It had been a long time since I’d last dived, so I did a quick refresher course.

We managed three truly beautiful dives, all inside Chole Bay, and saw an incredible array of various fish, corals and other sea life.

From the minute we boarded the traditional wooden jahazi boat to head out to the dive site, we knew we were in for a treat. From stingrays to barracudas, giant clams to tiny anemone fish, triggerfish, angelfish, butterfly fish, trumpetfish, starfish, vibrantly coloured corals and enigmatic turtles, right down to the minute colourful nudibranchs and leaf fish… we saw it all. Just as spectacular was the snorkelling. It was easy to go down and investigate lobsters hiding between rocks, and sea urchins bristling between soft corals. Everywhere I looked were vibrant, shimmering fish darting about in a mesmerising display of colour and movement.

A definite snorkelling highlight of Mafia is the whale sharks, and if you’re there at the

PREVIOUS SPREAD, LEFT (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): Traditional jahazi on a dive trip in Chole Bay; Hawksbill turtle; Scuba diving in Chole Bay; Fan coral; Brilliant yellow snappers PREVIOUS SPREAD, RIGHT (FROM TOP): Inside Chole Bay; Lionfish; Tropical fish THIS PAGE: Sunset on Mafia Island

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Conferences, weddings and events, full catering services

Tel: +27 12 7114002/3 Cell: 082 459 0451 Email: posh@rensgroup.co.za website: www.poshfunctions.co.za Located within the Dinokeng Big 5 Game Reserve

SA R AH KIN G D O M

LEFT: Palms abound at Shamba Kilole Eco Lodge RIGHT: Time for a beach barbecue!

INSET: A giant fig tree taking over an area of Chole Island

right time—October to February being the best—you can swim with these gentle giants just a few hundred metres offshore. They come to Mafia to feed on zooplankton and the eggs and larvae of breeding fish and crabs. Boats out to the sharks are able to move quietly, and visitors can hop in and snorkel to get a closer, underwater, look at the gentle giants.

In the (unlikely) event that you do eventually tire of the underwater world, there’s an abundance of things to do on dry land. Sea turtles have been nesting on Tanzanian beaches for over 150 million years, and between June and September it’s possible to see this amazing phenomenon for yourself.

We took a 30-minute boat ride to Juani Island, where we moored at the base of some of the biggest and most beautiful baobab trees I’ve ever seen. We walked across the island, through dense rainforest, to the eastern beach where we witnessed and counted 87 newly hatched baby turtles make their instinctive and somewhat erratic scramble from the white sandy beach to the warm Indian Ocean waters. As they reached the water’s edge, some of the waves proved a formidable obstacle and a number of the babies were, quite literally, swept off their feet and deposited on their backs further up the beach—and had to try again. By that stage, a couple of the hatchlings were clearly having second thoughts, and halfway to the water’s edge they turned around and tried to head back to the nest.

It was very tempting to reach out a

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Not at all what you’d expect to find on a tropical island, a rogue gang of reclusive hippos can be spotted in a network of lagoons in the northwestern part of Mafia Island. No one knows for sure how they got there, but the best theory is that they washed over from the Rufiji Delta on mainland Tanzania during floods.

Mafia is one of the most unique and perfect destinations you’ll ever find. The sand is white, the water is warm, the people are friendly and welcoming— but best of all, Mafia is perfect for solitude and complete relaxation in nature. helping hand and save them the ordeal, but it’s strictly forbidden to touch or interfere with them in any way. Eventually, they reached the water and disappeared.

Located between Juani and Mafia is the tiny and fertile Chole Island, with a population of about 1 000. Its inhabitants make their living from boat building, fishing and some limited farming. You reach the island via a 10- or 15-minute boat trip, and you can do a short walk around the island through the villages. We passed a number of interesting sites, and trees full of Comoro fruit bats (flying foxes), excitedly chattering and squabbling as they started to wake up before their nightly forage for food.

Another memorable sight was the ancient ruins, some Arabic and stretching back as far as the 12th century, and others much more recent German ruins from the 19th century. Many of the walls are now smothered with dense foliage, overgrown with giant figs and in danger of disappearing under plants that have grown from seeds dropped by bird many years ago. It was interesting to catch a glimpse of Tanzanian island village life, and see some of the traditional wooden boats being built.

Sarah and her husband were accommodated at three beautiful places: › Pole Pole, an exclusive eco lodge inside the Marine Park, with great cuisine, an unpretentious and laid-back atmosphere, and warm hospitality. www.polepole.com › Shamba Kilole Lodge, another eco lodge inside the Marine Park, owned by Francesca and Marco, the latter known as the island’s most knowledgeable and passionate dive master. www.shambakilolelodge.com › Butiama Beach is probably the best value for money, and the perfect place for families, with its seemingly endless expanse of pristine white beach just footsteps from your room. www.butiamabeach.com For scuba certification and both waterand land-based activities, contact Mafia Island Diving—one of the longeststanding dive operators on the island. www.mafiadiving.com

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SEYCHELLES MORE THAN JUST BEACHES WWW.SEYCHELLES.TRAVEL Some images courtesy of Alphonse Island

AN TON C RO N E

Revelations Anton Crone discovers the merits of travelling with two wheels, a camera and a desire to connect with people

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AN TO N C RONE

Upon taking up portrait photography, I understood the irony that I didn’t like being around people. I could hide behind a camera and put someone else on the spot, but the results were terrible. The people I photographed were speechless, their faces a silent mask. So I learnt to lower my camera and have a conversation before taking the photo. It changed everything.

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used to have a similar view on travelling: I did it alone and kept to myself. A hitch-hiking trip through North America changed that.

Climbing into cars with strangers locked me into a profound social dynamic: The cars became confessionals; knowing they’d never see me again, the drivers spilt their guts—revealing every aspect of their lives. After getting to know them so well, I felt a keen sense of loneliness when they left me on the side of the road. I began looking forward to the next ride more than the destination.

When I travel now, I find that people are my destination, and a southern African journey is full of wonderful characters and creeds.

And I often travel by motorcycle. You may think that a noisy bike would turn people off, but our Western sentiments are sullied by the reputation of American biker gangs. The truth is that a car, 4x4 or busload

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of tourists can be intimidating to people in obscure parts of Africa. On a motorcycle, you’re exposed, vulnerable, flesh and blood.

It puts you on a similar level to people who don’t own or ride in cars that often. A bike also gets you to places few cars venture, and at the end of those colourful trails are pots of human gold.

One such place is the village of Mfuwe on the border of South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. When I travelled there during the rainy season, the dirt road was tricky going for cars but manageable on two wheels. When I finally reached the village, I found a growing entourage of schoolkids running alongside me. How could I not stop to greet them? And what I learnt from those children was inspiring.

A few years ago, 120 boys arrived at Mfuwe Day Secondary School looking for an education. They’d left their remote villages behind and walked for days to reach the school. With nowhere to stay,

PREVIOUS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT: A deranged man in the Namibian town of Keetmanshoop who, before sitting for the photo, scooped up a handful of dust and smeared it all over his face and hair; Supposed imposters of the Nyau secret society in Malawi THIS PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: A Mozambican boy battles his way through a desperate crowd filling up on diesel from a crashed fuel truck; A Ugandan girl whose laughter was so infectious that I can hear it still, many years after meeting her OPPOSITE: Chadzunda is the most important dancer in the Nyau Gule Wamkulu, performed at traditional ceremonies (photograph by Andrew Bruckman)

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AN TO N C RONE

©Andrew Brukman

When I travel now, I find that people are my destination, and a southern African journey is full of wonderful characters and creeds.

an old classroom was converted into a dorm, and Mfuwe had its first boarders. But conditions weren’t ideal in their cramped quarters; boys had to share beds and make do with one meagre toilet. The Sausage Tree Charity, Mfuwe Lodge and The Bushcamp Company came to the rescue, and two new dorms were constructed, replete with vast ablutions. It didn’t take long for a bevy of girls to arrive, and construction began on their new dorms, too—how could one not reward such scholastic fervour?

The dedication these kids put into learning was incredible, but what really

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struck me was the way they identified themselves. Many of the boarders had become prefects. They shunned the school uniform to wear ties of their own choice, a way of expressing their individuality and something that helped characterise them on camera. They became an inspiration to me and I ended up spending more time among the schoolkids than South Luangwa’s incredible wildlife.

The other advantage of riding a motorcycle is that you stop more often to rest your aching bones. It means you can meet more people than you might in a car.

Not long after the Zambian journey, I was

riding a sand track in Botswana’s Kalahari.

It was Christmas Day; I was on my way to meet a friend in the Okavango Delta, but that was a long way off and the deep sand and intense heat made for tough going.

I had to stop often and rest, so when a small house came into view, the chance of shade and human contact was irresistible.

Expecting to meet a small family, what I encountered was a festive celebration to which every person in the area had been invited—and they were kind enough to invite me, too.

What followed was one of the most Christmassy days of my 44 years, in

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47-degree heat. I lent my voice to carols about reindeers and watched kids frolic in the sand as if it were snow. I admired the Herero elders who wore traditional Victorian dresses for decorum, insisting on shawls despite multiple layers of cloth that must’ve made them feel like baked meringues. I was humbled by their Christian fervour and the way they accepted me among their happy flock. It was hard to leave, despite the allure of the cool Okavango waters.

A similar stop along a Malawian road gave me a glimpse into a very different society. Three masked figures materialised from the bush, approaching me in fits and starts like curious insects. They were as interested in me as I was in them, but only responded to my questions with soft squeaks. After I took their photo, they vanished into the bush again. I lingered for a while and saw them reappear in a village on a nearby hill. I watched as kids scattered and screamed at the arrival of these strange beings.

I had to find out more. Some villagers told me I had met Nyau, members of a secret society in the Chewa culture. They told me the best person to speak to was a white Catholic priest. So I made my way to his door.

What followed were numerous visits to Mua Mission just south of Lake Malawi.

Father Claude Boucher Chisale has lived among the Chewa since 1976. He has immersed himself in the culture by living in their squat villages and embracing their spirituality. He has taken the name of the

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CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: A family welcomed me into their home on a sweltering Christmas Day to sing carols; A girl poses for the camera in a bar in Keetmanshoop; A Herero elder wearing a heavy Victorian dress and shawl, despite the weather (For this series, I baked the prints to illustrate the 47°C heat.)

clan he loves most, Chisale, and such is the Chewa tribe’s confidence in him that he has been initiated into the secret society itself.

According to Chisale, the Nyau are the mediums of the ancestors, a parallel spirit world that mirrors the complexity of the living. Clandestinely donning costumes and masks representing a myriad of characters, the Nyau perform the Gule Wamkulu (“The Great Dance”) at traditional ceremonies such as funerals, weddings and initiations. Through dances that can be frenetic and awe-inspiring, the Nyau spread moral and social dogma through the communities: everything from sexual virtue to political views.

I envy his access to this incredible

culture. Aside from Chisale, who has documented hundreds of Gule characters, and my friend Andrew Brukman who took the image for this article, few others have had the privilege of photographing these masked men.

Chisale made it clear that the characters I’d met on the road were strange to him, probably imposters. So I’ve yet to photograph a Gule character myself. I long try. These masked characters speak far more than a thousand words. To capture that faithfully must be one of the ultimate challenges of portraiture, for one would need to lower the camera and converse with the spirits. Like Chisale’s experience, that could be a conversation that lasts for decades.

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L A UR IA N N E C LA A S E

I’ll see you in

Laurianne Claase takes a tour of the past and the present in Old Havana

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L AURIAN N E C L A A SE

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I’m not sure what I expected to find in one of the world’s last five self-styled communist countries. What I got was a whiff of fragrant Cuban leaf as the plane’s doors opened; adverts for booze and cigarettes in the arrivals hall; trolleys loaded with teetering towers of shrinkwrapped air-con units, TVs and stereos; and buxom, mini-skirted officials in khaki—sporting epaulettes and fishnet stockings—who stamped our passports.

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o totalitarian, humourless, grey, Soviet-style communism.

Instead, it’s a colourful, Catholic, rum-swilling, cigar-smoking, tropical island kind of communism that’ll give you carpal tunnel syndrome from all the camera clicking. Expect the unexpected.

Cuba’s vibrant multiracial population is a legacy of the island’s colourful past, peopled by prehistoric tribes and Spanish conquistadors, 19th century sugar barons, African slaves and American mobsters, ruthless dictators and swashbuckling revolutionaries. This history has been preserved in crumbling concrete, thanks to the economic stagnation that followed the communist revolution of 1959.

Similarly, underdevelopment has rendered the island’s wetlands and mountains, coastline and coral seas largely untouched. Cuba is the largest—and least exploited—island in the Caribbean, and is home to nearly a third of all the coral reefs there.

Few cars travel the countryside roads, which are given over to horse carts and bicycles, making Cuba a popular cycling destination as well as an ecotourist’s paradise.

Home of the daiquiri, the mojito and the piña colada, Cuba is also famous for its music: a jambalaya of West African and Spanish, Jamaican, American and French influences. Drumming and dancing go hand in hand with the music, giving rise to the rumba and the cha-cha, bolero and salsa, Cuban jazz and a new-age rap/ hip-hop mix called timba.

Cuba’s architectural heritage encompasses some 500 years of history. Four cities have Unesco World Heritage Site status: Old Havana and her Renaissance fortifications, the 19th century sugar town of Trinidad, French colonial Cienfuegos, and Camagüey, one of the first seven villages founded by the Spanish in the early 1500s.

Havana, in particular, is a living museum to the last five centuries of European architecture, albeit vanishing at an alarming rate due to neglect, densification and cyclones. Once known as the Paris of the Antilles, where movie stars and royalty came to party, today glamour and squalor exist side by side in a pastiche of candy-coloured classic cars and peeling pastel paint.

Old Havana (La Habana Vieja) is the largest historic centre in Latin America. The 214-hectare heart of the old city—with its five large plazas and eclectic mix of 16th and 17th century Baroque cathedrals, neo-classical and Moorish architecture—is an enthralling mixture of urban decay and renewal. Old Havana and its 16th century fortifications were recognised as a World Heritage Site in 1982. But there was neither the political will, the materials nor the money for repair. The bronze lions and marble benches,

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terrazzo tiles and wrought-iron street lights of the 18th century Paseo (promenade) del Prado are lined by arched colonnades. Like teeth lost in a fight, the graceful façades have gaping holes. From the street, glimpses reveal once-imposing entrance halls ravaged by damp and time.

The 108 blocks of Habana Vieja is also the second densest part of the city. Some 80% of the houses in Old Havana were built after the 1900s, and few have been renovated since the Revolution.

Abandoned by their owners, the buildings were handed over to the fighters and their families, and subdivided. Increased migration from the rural areas led to more densification and decay.

Back in 2003, it was said of Old Havana that “two buildings collapse within three days.” This is no longer true, as tourism dollars are now funding reconstruction of the old city. The Hall of Mirrors in the former Presidential Palace (which is today the Museum of the Revolution) is being restored, and scaffolding surrounds El Capitolio. The former seat of government before the Revolution, the grand edifice is reminiscent of the US Capitol in Washington, DC, but was apparently modelled on Paris’s Panthéon.

The tourist zone in Habana Vieja grows with each passing year. The iconic Malecón is an 8km-long esplanade that runs along the sea wall from Old Havana and Centro to the Vedado neighbourhood. In any capitalist country, this would be prime waterfront property. In Havana, the once stately 19th century homes and apartment buildings are slums—but a few have been rescued from ruin. At the Castropol social club, you can sip a cocktail, puff on a R135 Cuban cigar, and watch the classic cars cruise the Malecón as if the last 60 years never happened (but for the hose you have to step over, piping in potable water from the truck outside).

However, the present is catching up with Cuba. People on park benches bend over their cellphones, connecting to a digital world

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they’ve been part of for only the last two years, although they cannot yet access the Internet from their homes.

Set aside at least two days to explore the Old City, not just because of the architecture, art and history but because of the people you meet—like Felix Cepero, for example, aspirant Guinness World Record holder for riding tall bikes. Smitten since first he saw a tandem cycle, Cepero cobbles together his lofty bikes from the frames of old Chinese Flying Pigeons, bicycles that were ubiquitous during the depression years of the 1990s. He’s building his record-beating 10m bike with help from supportive tourists. With his outsize cycling exploits, in any capitalist country Cepero would earn a good living from sponsorship and advertising. In Cuba, he and his wife sell sweets and beer from the doorway of their one-bedroom flat in Habana Vieja.

Since inheriting the reins of power from his brother Fidel in 2008, Raul Castro has loosened his grip on state control of the economy.

There are now some 201 categories of jobs in the private sector.

PREVIOUS SPREAD, LEFT-HAND PAGE: Old Havana is a photogenic mix of urban decay and renewal PREVIOUS SPREAD, RIGHT-HAND PAGE: (TOP) The Paseo del Prado, designed in 1772 and redesigned in 1925, divides Habana Centro from La Habana Vieja; (BOTTOM) A former mansion in the once affluent Havana suburb of Vedado THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: The Revolution ceded millionaires’ mansions in Vedado to the fighters and their families; Washing decorates the historic façades of Old Havana; El Capitolio, completed in 1929, was the seat of the Cuban government before the Revolution OPPOSITE: A country in mourning for the passing of its founding father

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L AURIAN N E C L A A SE

Back in 2003, it was said of Old Havana that “two buildings collapse within three days.” This is no longer true, as tourism dollars are now funding reconstruction of the old city..

Cubans can buy and sell property, cars and electronic goods.

Homeowners can rent out more than two rooms and employ people who aren’t family. This casa particular business is booming, albeit heavily taxed. Cubans can frequent tourist establishments and travel abroad; however, most can’t afford to. State-owned enterprises still employ three-quarters of Cuba’s working-age population. State employees earn, on average, between US$25 and US$40 (between R300 and R500) a month and live on ration books.

Tourism is the big money-spinner, both for the government and the growing number of self-employed. This is because of Cuba’s dual currency system. In 1993, following the collapse of the Soviet Union—which had been propping up Cuba’s economy for decades—the US dollar was accepted as legal tender for tourism and international business transactions. The convertible peso (CUC), artificially pegged at 1 to 1 with the dollar, replaced the dollar in 2004. Tourists pay in CUCs. Cubans, on the other hand, use pesos cubano (CUP), at a rate also artificially set at CUP25 to the CUC. The dual currency leads to two economies: those with CUCs and those with CUPs. If you earn CUCs, you can shop at the Mall Habana and take private taxis. If you earn CUPs, you settle for what you can find at the understocked municipal markets; and queue to catch

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infrequent buses. Thus, molecular biologists work as taxi drivers, electrical engineers are tourist touts, and lawyers and architects make a living renting out spare rooms in their apartments.

Idania, our casa particular hostess in Vedado, studied law, English and Latin and worked for the government as a legal secretary. In a complaint we heard more than once during our two-week stay, she bemoaned the low wages paid by the state.

“If you work for the government for a month, you make enough to eat for a week,” she said. “Never mind clothes or travel.” There’s little to buy in the state-run shops or municipal markets, and Cubans are experts at la cola (the queue).

On the other hand, Cuba’s adult literacy rate of 100% and its life expectancy of 79 years are the highest in Latin America. And in a nation founded by macho fighting men, homosexuality has been legal since 1979 and Cubans can undergo free transgender surgery on the national health system, thanks to the efforts of Raul Castro’s daughter, Mariela. On the UN Development Programme’s Human Development Index for 2015, Cuba ranked 67th out of 188 countries. South Africa was 116th.

Underdevelopment, along with government conservation efforts, has also preserved Cuba’s natural environment. By 2006, Cuba was the world’s only nation that met the UNDP’s definition

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CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: An art gallery in Old Havana; Street art in La Habana Vieja; The Hotel Nacional de Cuba is one of Havana’s most iconic landmarks; Havana’s China Town was once the largest in Latin America, before the Chinese fled the Revolution

of sustainable development, with an ecological footprint of less than 1.8 hectares per capita and a Human Development Index of over 0.8. Less than 150km southeast of Havana lies Bahía de Cochinos, the landing site of the ill-fated US-sponsored invasion of Cuba in 1961—better known in the West as the Bay of Pigs. At Playa Girón, a museum has all the details, including US weapons and a fighter plane captured from the enemy. Today, the area attracts divers and snorkellers to its protected waters and 30km of pristine coral reef, easily accessible from the shore.

An air-conditioned shuttle bus runs along the low-lying coastline, and drops you off at reef-protected natural aquariums such as Caleta Buena where, for R225, you can lounge on deckchairs and indulge in the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet and open bar. At Cueva de los Peces (Cave of the Fishes), paddle out to explore the coral bombs in the shallow water, or cross the road and snorkel the largest tectonic fault cave in Cuba, where seawater and freshwater mingle—as do the fish.

Then there’s the Zapata Peninsula, the largest and most important wetland in the Caribbean, home to the endangered Cuban crocodile and a wealth of birdlife. We went out with Carlos, Girón’s resident bird expert, in his 1950s Willys jeep. Of the 26 endemics on the island, we saw nine in one morning, including the smallest bird in the world: the bee hummingbird.

In one of the world’s last planned economies, the army is in charge of tourism, and it does so very well: from opulent 5-star hotels and all-inclusive packages, to state restaurants in restored colonial casas where, for R150—along with your mains, pastry and coffee—you can enjoy a cocktail, a local beer and a digestive

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liquor. Yvette, our waitress, arrived with my Cuba Libre. “Tell me when to stop,” she said, splashing Havana Club rum into my glass.

Because of the American embargo since 19 October 1960, here in the land of its birth the Cuba Libre doesn’t come with Coke…

The mythology of the Revolution abounds in statues, memorials and museums, posters, books, T-shirts and even tattoos.

The government milks it for all it’s worth. The landmark Hotel Nacional de Cuba is the ultimate symbol of the Revolution’s victory over American decadence and imperialism. During the 1940s and ‘50s, North American money, socialites, celebrities, tourists and gangsters poured into Cuba’s hotels, casinos and nightclubs. Most of the landmark Havana hotels were built in the 1950s with US mob money. The Hotel Nacional was one of the finest in the mafia’s Havana portfolio. Built in 1930, the art deco/neo-classical building was modelled on The Breakers Hotel in Palm Beach, Florida. It’s notorious for hosting a conclave of the US mafia in 1946, under the guise of a Frank Sinatra concert.

Fidel and his bearded ones chased the moneylenders—and the money—out of the temple. In 1962, he and Che Guevara turned the hotel into a fortress to defend the capital during the Cuban Missile Crisis. Today, it’s a cash cow, bringing in much-needed foreign currency for a country slowly relinquishing its experiment with communism.

As we sat in the landscaped grounds of the Hotel Nacional overlooking the Malecón, quaffing icy beers and puffing on a Cohiba as peacocks strutted under the wild figs and the sun went down over the Caribbean, I couldn’t help but think: No one does capitalism better than these Cubans!

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HISTO R Y O F T H E LA N D Y

it’s been a

Martin Pretorius looks back on the history of the iconic and muchloved off-roader

long road Through the decades, the mighty Land Rover Defender has helped to build countries and taken explorers to the furthest reaches of our planet, and it has appeared in roles ranging from farming implement to fashion accessory. In fact, the original Land Rover has been around so long that very few people alive today can remember a time without it. And oh, if Land Rovers could talk, what stories they would tell...

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H IS TO RY O F T H E L ANDY

T

he most important Land Rover story began in 1947 on a farm in North Wales, just as the dust started settling after World War 2. Resources and money were in equally short supply in Great Britain, and the country struggled through a period of austerity that ended up lasting for more than a decade. This was not a good time to be a manufacturer of any kind of luxury item—especially not luxury cars such as those being produced by the Rover Company back then.

What Rover really needed was a more affordable volume seller, something that would appeal to the battle-worn population of the British Isles. Rover’s salvation didn’t come in the form of a budget-conscious economy car, however, because destiny has a far finer sense of humour than the company’s management could ever have imagined...

But first, back to the farm. It belonged to a man named Maurice Wilks, Rover’s design chief and brother of the company’s thenmanaging director, Spencer. Maurice acquired an ex-military Jeep to use as an all-terrain runabout, which sent Spencer’s imagination in an entirely unexpected direction. He started thinking about building something similar to the Jeep but even more powerful, comfortable and versatile, with greater off-road capabilities—the mobile equivalent of a Swiss army knife, if you wish.

With Maurice’s guidance, the Rover engineers got to work at realising Spencer’s vision, and the very next year unveiled the production-ready Land Rover at the 1948 Amsterdam Motor Show.

But the Land Rover wasn’t really intended to be anything but a stop-gap product: a short-term golden goose meant to generate only enough revenue to fund development of Rover’s new range of passenger vehicles. Little could Maurice and Spencer have known that their brainchild would not only ensure Rover’s immediate survival but actually outlive the company that first created it. (Rover eventually disappeared in 2005, but the Land Rover lived on after passing through the hands of British Leyland, BMW, Ford and most recently Tata Motors.)

Calling the Land Rover anything but agricultural would do it a disservice. It was conceived as a farm-ready workhorse, with rugged construction and power take-off units to run all manner of farming machinery; early versions were even tested by ploughing some fields. But, just like a Swiss army knife, Land Rovers were soon put to very creative uses. Among their myriad applications, they’ve served as ambulances, armoured troop carriers and construction vehicles. And all the while, Rover’s engineers continued to fine-tune the design in an admirable effort to keep up with the times. Those engineers were a hard-working bunch, because while the basic architecture of the Land Rover remained unchanged over its 67-year production run, significant updates over time meant that almost no elements of the old Series I vehicles remained in the last Defenders.

Changes over the first 35 years were fairly minimal, with the focus being mostly on improving the engines and drivetrains, while the model range grew to include three wheelbase lengths, single- and double-cab pickups, soft-tops as well as station wagons with either three or five doors. But, whatever the body configuration, the Land Rover paid little heed to occupant comfort or modern luxuries—that’s what the upmarket Range Rover was for, after all.

The first big improvement came about in 1983, when the Landy

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finally received a coil-sprung suspension, derived from the system that had been underpinning the Range Rover since its release in 1970. More than anything else, this upgraded suspension probably played the biggest part in prolonging the Land Rover’s lifespan, for it brought along a much smoother ride quality, better road-holding and even more impressive off-road credentials.

The upgraded suspension arrived not a moment too soon, because by then the Japanese manufacturers had started making inroads into the Landy’s traditional stomping ground by offering equally capable off-roaders with much more contemporary designs. This sent Land Rover’s sales into a decline from which it never quite recovered, although the 1983 upgrades did arrest the slide to some degree. Subsequent updates were implemented much more frequently, helping to keep the Landy competitive and opening up the model range to a much wider audience than the early ones ever managed to reach.

It became less of a workhorse (though the more basic versions still held huge appeal to heavy-duty users) and started to take aim at the growing private leisure market. For a while, a Land Rover was a must-have item for anyone intent on any serious off-roading (or who just wanted to project an adventurous image), and the later versions began to reflect this new trend. Fancy paint jobs, chunky alloy wheels as well as modern conveniences such as air conditioning and electric windows found their way onto the spec sheet, and some markets developed their own special variants.

South Africa actually played a large part in the Land Rover’s history, because the first locally assembled Landies trundled off the production lines way back in 1950. We even had Land Rovers never seen anywhere else in the world, such as the ADE–engined Series IIIs of the 1980s, and the rather mad BMW–engined Defender 2.8i of the late 1990s. The latter was possibly the first Land Rover ever to need an electronic speed limiter at 160km/h; brick-like aerodynamics had been enough to rein in all other variants up to that point.

But in the end, even with its endearing character and multiple applications, and despite vastly improved build quality, comfort and modern drivetrains, there was one thing the Land Rover just couldn’t outlast: the persistence of bureaucracy. There was simply no way for a nearly seven-decade-old design to meet modern safety standards—especially when those standards demanded the fitment of airbags. The Landy had already been living on borrowed time and special exemptions for the better part of a decade as a result of its extremely relaxed approach to occupant safety.

The Land Rover story doesn’t end there, though. Not only has it sired a family of SUVs covering the whole spectrum—from the lifestyle-oriented Discovery range to the ultra-luxurious Range Rover—but the engineers are making final preparations on a modern successor. The long-awaited new-generation Land Rover Defender has reached an advanced enough stage of development for the company’s boss to have driven a test mule. The British press predicts the vehicle will debut as early as 2018.

Going on those engineers’ incredible job of keeping the old one on the market, the prospect of seeing what they can do with a clean-slate design is pretty exciting. But until the new Landy arrives, let’s celebrate the exceptionally long life and colourful legacy of the original. Because real legends never die—their stories just grow bigger with time.

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THANKS FOR THE MEMORIES The Land Rover Defender through the years

› 1941 Defender Snatch The original Land Rover, later known as the Series I, was an agricultural thing with a canvas roof, narrow track and very short wheelbase. Can you spot its Jeep origins?

› 1971 Land Rover Series III The Series III had a new gearbox, and was the first Landy to feature Rover’s V8 as an engine option. By that time, the headlights had moved to the front fenders, and safety received a boost with a plastic dashboard.

› 1992 The Defender This model played an important role in the military, its versatility making it ideal for custom developments.

A remote-controlled mine-detection vehicle, it was equipped with ground-penetrating radar.

› 2016 Heritage Edition Released as part of the Landy’s runout phase, it featured back-to-basics styling and was available in similar colours to the original Series models.

› Could this be the future?

What will the new Defender look like? Certainly nothing like this 2011 projection revealed at the Frankfurt Auto Show, which design director Gerry McGovern emphasised was “not even close” to the production-ready concept. We wait with bated breath…

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a destination for THE WHOLE FAMILY Sardine images courtesy of John Lamberti.

It’s Sardine Season. When predators and spectators wait with baited breath for the Greatest Shoal on Earth - the Sardine Run. Whales, sharks, dolphins, Cape Gannets, game fish like mackerel and tuna. Pro and popup fishermen with families. All anticipate a silver catch to feast on. A natural spectacle, the Sardine Run can happen anytime between May and August.

Plenty seaside and sporting activities take place during Sardine Season. For an up-to-date calendar of events, please visit www.tourismsouthcoast.co.za

FIONA Mc I N TO S H

clouds HEAD IN THE

A 100-mile race high up in the Himalayas proves an irresistibly challenging way for Fiona McIntosh to explore northern India

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FIO N A M cIN TOSH

W The wind’s biting, the ground covered in frost. Having watched the first rays of the sun light up the surrounding mountains, we’re now shuffling up the hill from the rustic lodge at Sandakphu where we spent the night. The cold air rasps in our lungs as we pass smiling villagers and grazing horses.

Today we’ll run a marathon in the sky.

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e’ll follow a rough track that snakes along the border of India and Nepal before dropping more than 4 000 feet (just over 1 200 metres) to the valley below. It’s the third day of the Himalayan 100 Mile Stage Race, and I’m finally in the groove.

Thirty-six enthusiasts from 14 countries have gathered for the event. We’re a diverse bunch: Several are veteran ultrarunners who have completed epics like the Marathon des Sables, Kalahari Augrabies Extreme Marathon and the Comrades. Others have only half-marathons on their CVs. Argentina is particularly well-represented with eight participants. Madko Vidosevich, an ophthalmologist from Rosario, is the affable joker in the bunch, always apologising for his late arrival at briefings and insisting that all present share FaceTime conversations with his beautiful wife back home. Compatriots Patricia Anconetani and her husband Carlos Spinelli ran last year and have returned with their three children, who are part of the walking group that completes a shorter course each day.

The large North American contingent includes another returnee, Jacqueline Windh, a geologist and writer from Canada who’s been honing her fitness and nutrition in order to be able to outrun the tsunami that she’s predicting will sweep across her home, Vancouver Island, which sits on an unstable tectonic plate boundary. So impressed was she by her first visit that she’s back in India for a month with her husband.

Sara Davies, who lives on a smallholding in Leicestershire farming pigs, sheep and chickens, has gifted herself the run as a 50th birthday present. She valiantly runs up every hill, ignoring the fact that most of us pass her at walking pace.

In poll positions are a leggy Frenchman and a super-fit young Australian couple

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who are touring the world, competing in ultraruns and triathlons as they go.

The commonality is that everyone’s here for the adventure, the chance to run wild in the foothills of the Himalayas. As I start down the first hill, I recognise the distinct summit pyramid of Mt Everest off to my left, with two other 8 000m peaks, Lhotse and Makalu, close by. The great snowy massive of Kanchenjunga is straight ahead. With such a compelling view of four of the five highest mountains in the world, it’s impossible to race. I click away with my camera, taking a couple of spectacular falls when I take my eye off the road.

Concerned about running at an altitude of 3 600m, I—along with fellow Capetonians Shaen Adey and Theresa Horn—arrived at ‘base camp’, the remote hill town of Mirik, a few days before the start of the race. We weren’t alone. Noema Williams, a Maori from Auckland, had been there almost a week. “The highest point I’ve been to in the last few years is 249 metres,” explained the sprightly 70-yearold. “So I thought I’d spend some time exploring and building up a store of red blood cells.”

At 1 767m, the town offered the chance to acclimatise both to the altitude and busy, culturally very different, India. It was a good call; not only did we have time to visit Mirik’s monastery, church, orchid nurseries,

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markets and a local tea estate (and ride the famous coal-fired mountain railway, the Toy Train, that puffs through the hill station of Darjeeling) but we were in reasonable shape for the punishing climb of 2 565m that faced us on the first day.

“Day one is 40km of uphill. You can’t run it,” Bryony McCormick, a South African who’d completed the event a couple of years ago (and a fellow contributor to The Intrepid Explorer), had informed us. The initial sustained climb, largely on a rough cobbled road that was built in the 1940s, was brutal—but worse was the descent of nearly 1 000m she hadn’t warned us about.

Down and down we went, our knees jarring as we entered a zone of ancient trees draped in lichens. The snaking road returned to its upward trajectory, and as we regained our lost height, the mist rolled in and the temperatures fell—along with our spirits.

At the final water point, we encountered the normally exuberant Madko. Somehow convinced that this should be the end point of the day, he was remonstrating with the timekeeper!

It was with some relief that we finally struggled into Sandakphu and collapsed.

Although there are no cut-offs, some of the back markers were tempted to throw in the towel as the evening drew in. Angela Scott could see the lodge high in the mist

above her when the backup jeep came past. Spent, she begged to be picked up, but the driver would have none of it. “You’re nearly there,” insisted one of the organising staff, jumping out of the vehicle. “I’ll walk with you.” Radioing his colleagues, he sent for tea to be brought down. Revived, Angela survived to fight another day.

Pounding along the ridgeline, I feel the privilege of running in this majestic environment surrounded by lofty peaks.

“The world’s most scenic race” is living up to its billing. Yesterday, mist obscured our views, but now the weather gods are

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Running in the clouds on the Himalayan 100 Miler THIS PAGE: Day 3—at last I can see the four giants OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Shaen Adey, Theresa Horn and I running past a stupa on the Everest Challenge; Passing through a village on day 1—a short relief from the almost continuous uphill

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KIN S L EY H O L GATE

Pounding along the ridgeline, I feel the privilege of running in this majestic environment surrounded by lofty peaks. “The world’s most scenic race” is living up to its billing. smiling. While today is a stand-alone race—the Mt Everest Challenge Marathon—we’re not rushing. Sandakphu holds a special place in the history of mountaineering. Apparently it was from here, as part of the Great Trigonometrical Survey (a project that aimed to measure the entire Indian subcontinent with scientific precision), that the height of Mt Everest was first accurately measured.

Now in its 26th year, the Himalayan 100 Mile Stage Race has been showered with accolades, not just for its views but for its superb organisation and social and environmental footprint. Despite the logistical challenges, we want for nothing— neither at the lodges nor on the route. Our health and well-being are attended to by a

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specialised doctor, and cooks instructed in the peculiarities of Western tastes and delicate stomachs, plus frequent water and food stations, mean there’s no need even to carry a running pack.

A portion of our entry fees goes to local charities and conservation efforts in the areas through which we run, so the walkers are tasked with handing out notebooks and pens to primary schoolchildren who line the approaches to many of the food stations.

The success is due to the tireless efforts of the founder and race director, Mr CS Pandey: an accomplished and intrepid mountaineer, trail runner and mountain biker who’s spearheaded the development of adventure tourism in India. Although

very well-travelled, with his heavily accented English and distinctive Indian body language (the ‘doddle’ of the head and flamboyant hand movements) he comes across initially as something straight out of the Exotic Marigold Hotel. But Mr Pandey’s fierce pride and passion for the area, for India’s towering mountains, jungles and friendly communities is apparent from the start, as is that of his assistant race director, the unflappable Mansi Pandey, and their cheery staff. Little touches—the fairy lights and garlands of marigolds that decorate the lodges, the numerous scarves draped around our necks—the varied menu options and the snippets of local history and customs that are woven into Mr Pandey’s briefings give insight into the mix of cultures in the region. It’s charming.

I catch Eric Schranz on the steep technical downhill through the jungle.

An accomplished American ultrarunner, with a personal best of 6 hours 37 minutes for 50 miles (yes, miles), he’s taking it easy, snapping selfies with the soldiers who line the upper section of the route, enjoying the views of deep valleys and green hills and the interaction with the yak herders and villagers we meet on the way. Despite owning a wardrobe of state-of-the-art running gear, he’s sporting a pair of brightly coloured, crocheted shorts that

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elicit shy giggles from everyone we meet along the way.

As we lose height, the landscape changes and I’m distracted by stupas (burial mounds), temples and little homesteads surrounded by bright flowers and vegetable gardens. Trekkers utilise these paths, so there’s also a sprinkling of lodges and teahouses.

“This is my slowest ever marathon time,” Eric concedes as we cross the finish line in just over seven hours. But he’s smiling. It’s been a great day out. A mad Irishman, Michael Burke, is hot on our heels. Thanks to his bizarre strategy of flying down the hills at break-neck speed, then almost collapsing with exhaustion at the bottom of the descents, we’ve yo-yoed past each other for the last three days.

“I love the rush of the downhills,” he says by way of explanation when I suggest that a more steady, controlled pace may be more efficient.

The lodge in the tidy village of Rimbik has everything that a weary runner could hope for: lovely hosts, hot showers, flush toilets, a constant supply of tea and beer as well as tasty, filling food. Plus a view to die for, particularly at dawn when the velvety layers of mountain ranges stretching to the Tibetan border glow in the oblique light.

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After the rigours of the marathon, we’re rewarded with an easy penultimate day of only 13 miles. The roadrunners take off down the steep road to the river, happy to be on tar. As I struggle up the equally steep road on the other side, I rue the fact there are no modern bridges spanning these valleys. The only way to cross from one ridge to another is to descend to the lowest point then regain all the lost height.

As we’re shuttled back to the Rimbik lodge, we’re instructed to prepare for an evening of cultural exchanges. Frenchman David Fontaine, the race leader (and eventual winner), displays his versatility playing the bull to his Spanish girlfriend’s sexy impersonation of a matador, while the English demonstrate football skills that would make the national team weep.

The final day starts where the previous one ended, the endorphins kicking in as our bus driver negotiates trucks, cars and motorbikes—often on the edge of precipitous drops. We jog through along a narrow winding road flanked by dense vegetation, catching frustratingly brief glimpses of Kanchenjunga before cresting the ridge, beginning the long final descent to the finish.

We manage a little celebratory jig as we cross the tape, happy that it’s over and that we’re still in one piece, but sad that

the race is at an end. We’ve enjoyed an incredible window on a little-visited region of northern India, a place virtually untouched by foreign tourists.

“The Mt Everest Marathon day was one of the best days of running/hiking in my life. The scenery, conversations and ultimately the finish in beautiful Rimbik was very special—and I’ll remember it always,” Eric emails me from his home in California a few days later. I’ll second that.

Have a look at www.himalayan.com for more information about the races and the organiser, Himalayan Run & Trek.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Eric Schranz beginning the descent into the jungle on day 3; Much of the route on days 2 and 3 followed the border between India and Nepal—Indian soldiers patrolled it and provided much-needed encouragement; The colourful Bokar Monastery in Mirik; Shaen and Theresa crossing the finish line on day 4; The run took us past various holy places (picture by Eric Schranz); Much of the second half of the route was on tarred roads through colourful mountain villages

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T R AVEL G E A R

Come rain or snow, you can still enjoy the outdoors during the colder months—we have your winter garb and gear sorted

Raring

to go Cape Union Mart’s wide range of K-Way winter apparel, footwear and equipment has been designed and condition-tested to ensure you’ll be prepared to handle anything that Jack Frost throws at you.

So button up, strap in and zip closed— it’s time to go outside!

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T R AVEL G E A R

R1 799 R1 699 K-WAY WOMEN’S RACHEL DOWN JACKET The chevron-channel design and removable faux fur trim of this jacket will ensure you’re not only the warmest person on the mountain, but also the most fashionable! With intense insulation from the hypoallergenic duck-down fill, this jacket gives maximum warmth at minimal weight—making it perfect for overseas travel. Use the zip-enclosed chest pocket for smaller items and the two internal drop pockets to keep cameras, phones and batteries warm.

K-WAY MEN’S ASHTON QUILTED BOMBER JACKET A technical down jacket that’s as cool and fashionable as any other trendy leisure jacket. Filled with 90% ethically sourced duck down, it provides great insulation, while the shell is 100% windproof, vapour-permeable (breathable) and water-resistant.

Incredibly lightweight and compressible, it also makes the perfect urban jacket for everyday commuting in the winter months.

K-WAY MEN’S/WOMEN’S KILIMANJARO 16 BOOT

R1 999

This hiking boot is built to handle the many climatic zones and demanding terrain of Africa’s highest peak, Mount Kilimanjaro—so you know it means business. Hard-wearing nubuck and suede leathers make up the durable upper, while the internal lining is a waterproof and breathable membrane that helps to keep the upper both waterproof and water vapour permeable.

Traction on rocks and in mud results from the Grivola Vibram outsole with its thick lugs.

The OrthoLite footbed is removable, for easy cleaning and to accommodate orthotics.

R999

R1 099

K-WAY WOMEN’S JUNGLE HOODY FLEECE This fleece is perfect for hiking in the mountains in winter.

Warm and insulating, it has a draw-cord hood to keep your head protected from the elements, and quilted contrast panels that provide additional insulation against wind and water. Hikers and campers will appreciate the articulated sleeves that allow for unrestricted movement during outdoor pursuits. Ladies, get your partner the Men’s Quest Fleece Hoody (R1 199) and you can both be snug as a bug.

K-WAY MEN’S PONGO FLEECE JACKET Perfect for travelling and camping, the Pongo has Sherpa pile thickness for additional insulation—with one side brushed and the other sporting an anti-pilling fleece finish (the layers of the fabric won’t wear off easily, making the jacket last longer). The adjustable hem allows you to customise the jacket to fit your body type, and you can stash away your car keys or other essentials in the internal chest pocket.

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T RAVEL GEA R K-WAY KILIMANJARO ‘12 DAYPACK A comfortable, durable backpack is a good friend to any traveller. The Kilimanjaro Daypack was designed keeping in mind the arduous trekking to the summit of Africa’s highest peak—and its performance was tested there, too.

The padded hip belt and shoulder straps ensure the weight is evenly distributed, and the air vent harness system keeps the bag off your back, allowing for ventilation that’ll keep your back dry. There are many pouches and pockets, and the built-in cover keeps your gear protected from both rain and snow. The bag is also R1 499 compatible with a hydration system.

R899 K-WAY WOMEN’S STRATA BOOT With its excellent stability and flexibility, the Strata is a versatile women’s hiking boot for all terrains. Its durable nubuck leather upper has mesh inserts to aid the release of moisture vapour from inside the shoe. The rubber outsole grips rocks while the non-slip laces keep the boot fastened even when wet. This is a comfortable shoe that’s been designed specially for the female foot, and it’s ideal for both short and long hikes.

K-WAY CARRY ON 40 TRAVEL BAG The ideal travel companion throughout the winter and the summer months, this bag is durable and versatile enough for heavy-duty travel—as a satchel or backpack. It’s perfectly sized to carry on-board, featuring a spacious main compartment with a front organiser compartment for smaller items. The padded back system makes it a comfort to carry, and has sufficient space for your keys, wallet, ID and pass card.

R1 399

K-WAY BASECAMP 3-PERSON TENT Designed to withstand some of the world’s most extreme conditions, this three-person tent will hold up to strong wind, driving rain or even a snowstorm. This is achieved by its aerodynamic design, streamlined profile and waterproof flysheet and tent floor fabrics that keep the tent both sturdy and durable. Plus there’s enough space to stow your gear.

R3 999

K-WAY HYBRID 2 SLEEPING BAG

K-WAY THERMOLITE HEATING LINER

This is an entry-level, compact and lightweight sleeping bag designed for the winter months. With a fill power of 650, the down at the top provides superior insulation, while the double-layered hollow fibre fill at the bottom allows for maximum heat retention.

A warm collar keeps your neck warm and the zipper baffles ensure no cool air enters the bag while you’re sleeping.

R699

The perfect partner to the K-Way Kilimanjaro 3 Thermashift Sleeping Bag. Although down sleeping bags can be gently washed, a better approach to their long-term care is for you to sleep inside a liner to keep your sleeping bag clean. Much like a tubular sheet for a sleeping bag, the liner can be tossed into the washing machine. Even better, the Thermolite fabric can add up to 15°C more warmth, and it packs up smaller and lighter than an extra set of thermal underwear.

R1 599 *All prices in this feature were correct at the time of going to print. www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

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AFRIC A T RAVEL W E EK

continental

drift

Africa Travel Week is growing tourism—into, within and from Africa, writes Miriam Mannak

Launched in 2014, Africa Travel Week has grown from strength to strength, attracting more travel professionals and visitors each year. We speak to general manager Chardonnay Marchesi about the expo and what lies in store for Africa’s travel sector.

T

hree years have passed since the Cape Town International Convention Centre opened its doors to the first Africa Travel Week. Comprising World Travel Market Africa (WTM Africa), Incentives, Business Travel & Meetings Africa (ibtm africa) and International Luxury Travel Market (ILTM Africa), the expo has become a fixed item on the agendas of thousands of travel professionals operating in and outside the African continent.

“We have seen an exponential growth from both an exhibitor’s and visitor’s perspective. We are averaging a 19% increase per year. Some 5 000 travel professionals attended the show in 2016,” Marchesi says, noting that the expo is an inbound and outbound travel affair and that the focus is not only South Africa. “We will have representatives from South Africa, elsewhere in Africa and the rest of the world coming to Cape Town in April [19–23].”

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INTRA-AFRICAN TRAVEL Since its inception, sub-Saharan participation in the event has grown significantly. “Intra-African tourism and travel between South Africa and the rest of sub-Saharan Africa has become as important as outbound travel from Africa into international destinations,” Marchesi notes. “Nigeria has become important, for instance, from a shopping and leisure perspective. People from French-speaking countries are moving into South Africa quite frequently, and the other way around. Zimbabwe and Botswana are key countries, too, from a tourism perspective.”

This growth directly results from ATW’s distinct focus on introducing key travel players to new contacts. “We are bringing in new buyers and new contacts to travel agents in South Africa and the rest of the continent. As an event, we are less about

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AF R IC A T R AV E L W E E K

We want to drive the responsible tourism agenda by educating travel and tourism players around the various issues that exist. In essence, we want to be a catalyst for change existing business and more about generating new business.”

The World Travel Market global portfolio—which, besides WTM Africa, also comprises WTM London and the Arabian Travel Market—is an important drawcard.

“We have access to all of these databases.

That is why ATW has become a truly global travel marketplace,” Marchesi says. “Visitors and exhibitors can benefit from local and regional opportunities, expertise and experience, and from our own expertise and experience. As ATW, we want to help shape the future of travel into, within and from Africa.”

RESPONSIBLE TOURISM In terms of travel trends, responsible and sustainable tourism is a big one. “We had a look at canned lion hunting, which has been key. The industry is quite serious about it. Lion cub petting is also a priority,” Marchesi reveals.

Her statements resonate in TripAdvisor’s recently launched “no touching of wild animals” policy. Hereby, the world’s largest travel website has stopped ticket sales to attractions where travellers come into physical contact with captive, wild or endangered animals. This includes elephant rides and big cat petting, hailed by some as must-dos when visiting Africa and Asia.

“From a portfolio perspective, sustainability is something that is close to all our hearts. Some responsible tourism players are key contributors toward the show in April. We as an organisation

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encourage visitors and exhibitors to practise responsible tourism, while engaging in responsible tourism–related content and using our platform to share best practices. We want to drive the responsible tourism agenda by educating travel and tourism players around the various issues that exist. In essence, we want to be a catalyst for change.”

One South African stakeholder that has done a great job in terms of implementing sustainable tourism practices is Hotel Verde near Cape Town International Airport, says Marchesi. Known as Africa’s greenest hotel, the establishment features wind turbines and solar panels, uses 70% less energy than other hotels, grows some of its own food, and recycles its grey water and all organic waste. “From when you walk through the doors, Hotel Verde is doing everything right. We align ourselves with these industry leaders to learn more, share our and their knowledge with the rest of the industry, and drive the responsible tourism message throughout our platform.”

INCLUDING TOURISM SMES Besides sustainable tourism, the inclusion of smaller companies and destinations is an important priority at ATW. “We have given suitable rates for small and medium-size enterprises (SMEs) to give them an opportunity to engage with an international network, arrange pre-scheduled meetings, and meet local, regional and global buyers on site,” she says. “We also meet with these SMEs before the show to get them

expo-ready, to ensure they understand what buyers are looking for, and that they are ready for contracting.”

From an ATW perspective, the future of tourism in South Africa and the rest of Africa is looking bright. “Regardless of what is happening locally and globally in terms of the economy, the continent has huge potential for growth. People from around the world are interested in getting into Africa,” Marchesi says. “As a result, various African countries are now starting to open up toward tourism by building hotels and getting their infrastructure in place.

Infrastructure is a key obstacle in Africa, as people think they won’t be able to get from point A to point B.” In South Africa, the usual suspects such as Cape Town, Johannesburg and the Kruger National Park will continue to be important in terms of international and regional travel. This, however, is not where the Rainbow Nation’s tourism story ends.

Other regions and provinces are becoming smarter in terms of harnessing their tourism potential. “They are increasingly working together and developing itineraries that combine a number of different regions. This makes it easier for the traveller to get to know South Africa,” Marchesi explains.

Smaller destinations like the Eastern Cape are expected to grow as well.

“Travellers are getting online, and are looking for something different. The power of third-party endorsements plays a vital role.”

www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

the ultimate african experience At Nomad, we can make your every wish and dream come true if you are looking for an authentic experience in Southern or East Africa. No matter what your requirements are, give us the opportunity to make you an offer and then organise your holiday - it will be your best ever! As we have been operating in the industry for more than 20 years, we have strong connections with accommodation suppliers and we have built our own fleet of top of the range adventure trucks. You will not find a more professionally operated, locally based adventure touring company in Africa, so come and travel with us!

CAMPING TOURS

ACCOMMODATED TOURS

SMALL GROUP TOURS

Join us on one of our scheduled tours in our purpose built adventure trucks as there is no better way to have a truly unique and authentic experience in Africa! We provide all of the camping equipment, the guides, an exceptional itinerary, your transport and most activities and all you need to bring along is a great attitude and your willingness to join in and expect the unexpected.

Our scheduled accommodated tours are also operated on our purpose built adventure trucks and the only difference between these tours and our camping tours is that at night, you will sleep in 3 to 5 star accommodation that has been prebooked for your comfort.

All meals are prepared by your cook on tour and will be served from the adventure truck.

Our small group tours are offered in a camping and an accommodated option and the difference with these tours is that we only take a maximum of 12 guests on our 24 seater trucks. This means that each of our travellers enjoys their own double seat as well as their own window seat throughout the entire experience! This truly is the "business class" of adventure touring!

TAILOR MADE ADVENTURES Join us on safari in Africa with your friends and family! No matter what you require, whether it be a 5 star romantic honeymoon to a backpacking nature trail, we can organise it all for you. Whether your travel party is made up of 2 or 200 travellers, we'll design a holiday that fits your ultimate requirements, and we'll do it at a competitive rate to! Tell us your dream and we'll deliver it. Our team of well-travelled and dedicated individuals will provide you with a detailed itinerary, suggest accommodation, professional and friendly service and all the support you need to make travelling in Africa an absolute pleasure.

BIG ENOUGH TO COUNT. SMALL ENOUGH TO CARE

book your tour today T: +27 21 426 5445 E: nomad@nomadtours.co.za www.nomadtours.co.za

Pride, Singita Kruger National Park

L IFE T H RO UGH T H E L E NS

LIFE

THROUGH THE

In this edition of The Intrepid Explorer, we showcase the remarkable wildlife photography of Ross Couper

F

LENS

ield guide, content creator, photographer, husband, braai master, runner, sketch artist, funny guy, Land Rover fanatic, will work for wine gums… Ross Couper is a jack of all trades. Born in Zimbabwe to a family who were resolutely rooted in the bush, the young Ross followed in his father’s footsteps by studying field guiding in South Africa—funded by the art he created and sold at weekend exhibitions.

After a brief pause in his career to travel, Ross returned to South Africa and, picking up a sketch pencil, became frustrated with the slow pace of it; an impromptu Christmas gift of a camera quickly shifted him to a quicker artistic development.

Now he uses his extensive art background in wildlife photography. He says he’s more of an intuitive photographer than a practical one—and with the added bonus of being a field guide, his artistic intuition in his photography is set out unconsciously.

Because Ross is a self-taught photographer, the wilderness is his classroom. His days are generally unpredictable in terms of

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light, weather and sightings, but he has adapted his photography for these elements. “In wildlife photography, opportunities can never be replicated; every time you go out into the field, you never know what to expect,” he says. “There’s a great rewarding factor when photographing a wild animal in its natural habitat.”

Ross is fortunate to work for Singita Private Game Reserve in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve. Along with field guiding, his photographs help highlight Singita’s enduring purpose to conserve, preserve and protect the miraculous places they are custodians of.

His works have been showcased in national as well as international magazines, the most recent being his feature contributions in the Remembering Rhino coffee-table book. It’s a follow-up to the Remembering Elephants project, and both books aim to raise much-needed funds for protection and conservation efforts in Africa and Asia.

View more of Ross Couper’s photographs on www.rosscouper.com, or follow him on Instagram and Twitter (@rosscouperphoto) and Facebook (Ross Couper Photography).

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Brothers, Singita Kruger National Park

Defining, Singita Sabi Sand

L IFE T HR O U G H T H E LE N S

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Apex, Singita Sabi Sand

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Pattern, Singita Sabi Sand

O UT AN D A B O U T

on the

wild side

Here’s the inside scoop on the outside world! We look at some of the astounding feats accomplished by intrepid explorers young and old; the latest developments and products; as well as events and causes in which you, The Intrepid Explorer reader, can become involved. So get out there and make the most of the outdoors!

Compiled by Robbie Stammers and Tania Griffin

WITNESS THE AGE-OLD BATTLE OF

PREDATOR VERSUS PREY The Serengeti is known around the world as the home of the greatest movement of land animals on Earth: the Great Migration. In this annual event, over a million animals move from just south of the Serengeti across the great open plains, making their way toward the Maasai Mara in Kenya. But it’s the final part of the journey that draws the most interest.

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Approaching the north of the Serengeti, the area suddenly changes. No longer open and dry, this region is crisscrossed with rivers, and the grasslands are replaced with forests of acacia trees. It’s this part of

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O UT AN D ABOU T

the journey that’s most perilous, as huge rivers such as the Mara and Grumeti must be crossed by the vast number of animals—and lying in wait are enormous Nile crocodiles that have barely eaten all year in preparation for this feast. It’s a wonderful spectacle to witness: a battle of predator versus prey. It’s one that every person should see once in their lifetime.

Rainfall is a major driving factor influencing the movement of the migration, but here’s a rough guideline as to what you can expect to see: June/July/August—The wildebeest move from the central area and split to the west and north, continuing their trek toward the Mara River. River crossings may be seen in both the western corridor (Grumeti area) and north (Mara River) within the Serengeti.

September/October—While some of the wildebeest successfully reach the Maasai Mara, there are still hundreds of thousands remaining in the northern region of the Serengeti, offering those with patience the chance to see river crossings (the Mara River runs through the Serengeti).

The best way to see this area is to fly into the north (which can take 1.5 days to reach by game-drive vehicle from Kilimanjaro Airport) and spend your time in the Serengeti North Wilderness Camp just a 10km drive from one of the most popular crossing points. Stay in luxury under canvas in this intimate private camp that offers some of the best river crossings in the Serengeti, right on its doorstep.

Renowned for its attentive service and excellent food, you’ll truly feel part of the African bush there.

Custom-made safari vehicles offering every guest a seat with a view, paired with expert guides and friendly ground staff, make Serengeti fly-in safaris the choice for everyone—from photographers to ex-presidents.

To see a list of Wild Frontiers products (such as the Tanzania Fly-In Safari to the Migration) and other destinations, go to www.wildfrontiers.com or email reservations@wildfrontiers.com to speak to a specialist safari designer.

www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

get wacky with wine The much-loved Robertson Wine Valley’s 14th annual Wacky Wine Weekend is back from 1 to 4 June to showcase more than 40 wine estates, boutique wineries and tourism establishments from the Ashton, Bonnievale, McGregor and Robertson region.

Warm up this winter with award-winning wines through tutored tastings by winemakers, as well as cellar tours, wine pairings and samplings. There will also be live music, outdoor sports, arts & crafts stalls, a variety of country cuisines and fun for everyone, young and old.

The event takes place at multiple wineries and tourism establishments, each presenting a feast of unique activities to suit the fun-seeker, novice or wine connoisseur. Most activities are included in the weekend pass, while others work on a pay-as-you-go system.

You can also look forward to outdoor adventures such as golf, horseshoe throw, vineyard trail run, colour run, mountainbike rides and shot-for-shot chip challenges, among many others.

Kids are well catered for with jungle gyms, ball sports, jumping castles, face painting, giant chess, a petting zoo, tractor rides—even special food pairings with non-alcoholic beverages!

The romantic at heart can go for a couple’s massage, seal their love at the “love lock wall”, dance the night away, or simply enjoy a good wine in front of a fire.

Tickets are available through Webtickets. Upon arrival, exchange your Webticket at your first stop for your Wacky Passport consisting of a wine glass, bottle of water, wristband, programme and coupons (for six free tastings at each participating winery).

For more information and a list of accommodation options, go to www.wackywineweekend.com.

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ED’S PICKS A great read to dive into The only comprehensive guidebook to the dive sites of South Africa and Mozambique, this should appeal to experienced, novice and aspiring divers alike, whether local or visiting. The 13 regional overviews in Dive Sites of South Africa & Mozambique will direct you to the perfect spot, depending on what you’re after (perhaps shipwrecks, sharks at close quarters, the Sardine Run, kelp forests or just warm water); the contact list of operators will help you arrange the logistics; the detailed descriptions of the top dive sites will prepare you for what’s out there; and the informative marine species identification guide will help you put a name to those pretty yellow-and-blue striped thingies that kept swimming past you. Written by Fiona McIntosh, a regular contributor to The Intrepid Explorer who’s dived extensively around the world, the book offers an enthusiastic yet balanced guide to the very varied underwater experiences available off our shores.

Two lucky readers can each win a copy of both Ed’s Pick titles!

Simply email your name and contact details to susan@insightspublishing.co.za before 1 June 2017, with the subject line “Intrepid Explorer 17 book competition”. The winner will be notified via telephone or email.

Trek, kayak, cycle

For over two decades, Two Oceans: A Guide to the Marine Life of Southern Africa has been the preeminent book to which scientists, students, divers and beachcombers have turned to identify and learn about marine life: from sponges to whales, and seaweeds to dune forests. In this exuberantly colourful, fully revised fourth edition, over 2 000 species are now covered; names and other details have been updated to reflect the latest taxonomy; and many new photographs have been added.

Athletes from all over the world will explore the notorious ‘Adventure Province’ in this year’s Expedition Africa 500km adventure race taking place in the Cape St Francis area. Organiser and route designer Stephan Muller from Kinetic Events has designed the adventure playground for this year’s Adventure Racing World Series event, which will see teams of two and four venture through the Kouga and Baviaans regions.

The route has been carefully designed to incorporate all the challenging yet beautiful attractions this glorious area has to offer.

“Teams will trek, kayak and cycle through extremely remote areas, venturing where few humans have ever set foot before. Expedition Africa 2017’s teams will explore magnificent mountain ranges and the beautiful coastlines of the Eastern Cape,” said Muller.

The highlight of this year’s course will be the Baviaans, home to the Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area and a Unesco World Heritage Site—the largest of its kind in southern Africa. The 225 000-hectare mega-reserve boasts unspoilt, rugged mountainous terrain featuring spectacular landscapes that expose athletes from far and wide to an entirely new kind of beauty.

For the first time in the history of Expedition Africa, there will be a Dark Zone along one of the hiking legs, as teams will not be allowed to travel during night. This is to ensure the safety of the teams as they traverse an African wildlife area.

The event headquarters and race village will be at the Cape St Francis Resort, bringing the event to life from 12 to 21 May 2017.

With the mildest temperatures and the longest sunshine hours along the coast, Cape St Francis is a unique and exclusive paradise found in the Kouga region on South Africa’s southern coast.

While teams explore parts of this untouched Adventure Province, their families will have the opportunity to experience and enjoy the area and what the Kouga has to offer. With many local teams entered in the event, the multiple supporter transition points will enhance the camaraderie and ensure ongoing excitement travels throughout the Kouga and Baviaans.

R390, available from all leading bookshops and online at takealot.com and Loot.co.za.

See kinetic-events.co.za for constant updates of videos and other interesting information.

R285, available from all leading bookshops and online at www.mapstudio.co.za.

The ultimate marine guide

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www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

Ideal for all adventurers & explorers Fix is a novel,100% natural wound dressing,

specially formulated from a combination of Neem oil, St. John’s Wort oil and Olive oil.

Fix is suitable for the self-treatment of abrasions, cuts, burns, acute & chronic wounds.

Fix is a primary wound dressing that:

P promotes wound healing P supports the SCARRING process P enables painless dressing change.

www.flordis.co.za | Tel 044 874 2927

O UT AN D A B O U T

waves for change A programme that uses the sport of surfing to change the lives of vulnerable South African youth has won the Sport for Good Award at the 2017 Laureus World Sports Awards in Monaco.

The award was presented by HSH Princess Charlene of Monaco, who grew up in South Africa and competed internationally as a swimmer. She has a passion for sport for development and cites surfing as one of her favourite sports to participate in today.

Waves for Change, which is supported by Laureus Sport for Good, saw a need for emotional and mental care for young

people living in violent and unstable communities. On average, the ratio of school social workers to children in these areas is 1:30 000. Statistics also show that these children are impacted by up to eight traumatic experiences per year, as opposed to an average of five per lifetime in the developed world. Posttraumatic stress is common among South African youth.

The programme was founded by Tim Conibear, an Englishman who spent time in South Africa after graduating from university. An avid surfer, he spent every free moment he had in the waves. At the beach, he found young people from the local township who were at a loose end, in search of

something to believe in. Soon, Conibear was transporting a car full of excited young people to and from the beach. The car then became a van, and then became Waves for Change.

Although many of the youngsters who participate in the Waves for Change programme live just metres from the ocean, most have never stepped foot in the water and don’t know how to swim. The programme initially gives these kids the chance to learn to swim before engaging in group and peerto-peer therapy.

Before long, the young people embrace the ocean and push themselves toward getting up on the surfboard and riding out a wave. More importantly, as they learn to face their fears, they learn to cope with their emotions out of the water and become leaders in their communities.

Since its inception in 2011, Waves for Change has reached more than a thousand children and helped more than 50 coaches achieve qualifications and skills in surf coaching, lifesaving, child protection, trauma counselling and computer training.

The success of the programme has seen it expand from one site to six: five in South Africa and one recently launched in Liberia. Waves for Change is dedicated to continuing its work across the globe, reaching communities where mental health services are under-resourced or stigmatised.

See www.waves-for-change.org for the work being done by Tim Conibear and his team.

Food factor Aussie excavation worker Brent Owens got his first taste of television stardom when he won season 6 of MasterChef Australia in 2014. Now he’s back in front of the camera with his own cooking show, Brent Owens: Extreme, Authentic & Unwrapped—and season 1 was filmed right here in South Africa.

“When I won the [MasterChef] competition, it broadened my horizons,” he says. “It gave me a taste of extreme adventure. To see the world only fuelled the fire… of wanting to do more, see more and eat so much more! And that’s when I chose to explore the world’s different flavours.”

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Owens chose South Africa because of its “authentic, extreme and culturally rich cuisines”, and his show explores everything from township street fare to traditional Afrikaans comfort food (boerekos) and the famous braai. He wants to eat, drink and cook alongside locals in the countryside, rural areas and little-known places in and around the cities.

Apart from these culinary adventures, Owens also tries out some of South Africa’s adrenaline-pumping escapades like freefalling in Soweto, shark-cage diving in the Western Cape, game driving in the Sabi

and bungee-jumping from Bloukrans— even though he’s scared of heights and over-enthusiastic ostriches.

Catch Brent Owens: Extreme, Authentic & Unwrapped on DStv’s Discovery Channel on Tuesdays at 8 p.m.

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O UT AN D ABOU T

take a hike

The UK has a reputation for having bad weather, but when spring and summer come around, there are few places as glorious as Great Britain. As winter approaches South Africa, hop on a plane and experience England at its best.

Dotted with ancient burial sites, historic towns and breathtaking scenery that have inspired many an artist and author, England’s countryside offers some of the best walking routes on the planet.

On Foot Holidays, one of Europe’s leading walking tour operators, offers an 8-day route that takes you from the cathedral city of Exeter in southwest England down toward the pictureperfect coastal town of Dartmouth with its brightly painted

cottages. The trail leads past castles, windswept downs, meandering rivers and historic villages.

Walking an average of 11 to 16km per day, you’ll stay in fascinating country inns and enjoy homegrown food and ales along the way. This itinerary, which is in Devon, costs R11 715 per person (depending on exchange rate) for seven nights and includes all accommodation, luggage transfers between inns, select meals and comprehensive information packs with maps.

Another spectacular itinerary is the 8-day walk from Salisbury to Lyme Regis on the Dorset coastline.

Arguably the most quintessential of English counties, Dorset is home to the beautiful cathedral city of Salisbury, fishing villages and the legendary Jurassic Coast, a World Heritage Site—all of which you’ll pass along the way. At R12 660 per person (depending on exchange rate), this itinerary also includes all accommodation, luggage transfers between inns, select meals and comprehensive information packs including maps.

Each itinerary can be lengthened or shortened to suit personal preferences. Check out www.onfootholidays.co.uk for more information on 28 self-guided walking routes across Europe.

www.wildfrontiers.com

GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH TAKING YOU TO THE HEART OF THE ACTION

TANZANIA KENYA UGANDA RWANDA ETHIOPIA ZIMBABWE BOTSWANA ZAMBIA

CONTACT US reservations@wildfrontiers.com www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

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O UT AN D A B O U T

DOING IT FOR

JOOST

This year the J9 Foundation cycling team will, for the first time, take part in the Liberty Winelands Encounter—in memory of Springbok great Joost van der Westhuizen, who passed away in February from motor neuron disease (MND).

Presented by ASG Events in partnership with STANLIB, the three-stage mountain bike race starts on 21 April and will take riders through spectacular trails in the Cape Winelands.

The J9 Foundation was formed by Van der Westhuizen after he was diagnosed with MND in early 2011. It not only aids those suffering from the disease—29 beneficiaries and more than 40 families affected—but also helps with research.

Cape Town lawyer Dirk Kotze and Namgear boss Marius Bronkhorst will represent the J9 Foundation at the race, with the aim of raising awareness about MND. “Most people, of course, know of Joost—and when they see our kit with the J9 Foundation logo, there’s always a lot of talk about what we’re trying to do,” explains Kotze. “People usually ask us if we’re riding for the

foundation, and if they don’t know much about it, it provides us with a chance to inform them.”

Kotze and his regular cycling partner Brendan Snyman decided they wanted to ride for more than the love of the sport, “to do something more meaningful and support a foundation or organisation,” he says. “It was then that I saw an interview with Joost on Carte Blanche and decided to contact his foundation.”

The J9 Foundation was enthusiastic about the idea and formed the J9 cycling team to assist with the work of raising awareness.

Bronkhorst was keen to get involved as well, because one of his good friends suffers from MND. The Winelands Encounter will take riders through the Western Cape towns of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Wellington.

Go to www.winelandsencounter.co.za for further details.

CALLING ALL WARRIORS! The IMPI Challenge is an adrenalinecharged experience of conquering obstacles in mud, dirt, water—even fire! It’s a day out you’ll never forget.

Challenge yourself both physically and mentally while having loads of fun.

Anyone can participate in the adventure: from elite sportspersons, competent and beginner runners, to families looking for a great outdoor experience, no matter your level of capability or fitness.

The obstacles have been designed to challenge participants in heights, water, darkness, confined spaces, dirt and mud as well as endurance. Favourites include: › Mitsubishi Mud Pits—swim, splash or wade to get through the muddy madness › Rawson Wall—two metres high › Vietnam Crawl—leopard-crawl to escape the gunfire › Trail Run—beautiful routes and nature create their own obstacles › Lilly Pad Pallet Crossing—a classic run across pallets suspended over water › Various rope, net and pole climbs and river traverses › Tyres in all shape and sizes—carry, stack, pull, roll, climb over and climb through › Sewer pipes and snake pits There are five categories you can enter, depending on your ability: ELITE is for athletes wanting to challenge their level of all-round fitness, endurance, strength and mental grit, with 26 to 28 unique and original obstacles designed over 20km of hills, mud, water, ropes, walls and fire. (The race director loves surprises…)

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CORPORATE encourages teamwork and bonding among colleagues, with 18 to 20 obstacles over 11 to 12km.

The CHALLENGE and DASH routes differ in distance, but contain the same level of obstacles that are hard but doable. Challenge: 10km with 26 to 28 obstacles. Dash: 5km with 7 to 9 obstacles.

The MINI is for all IMPIs-in-training aged 6 to 10, for some muddy fun with their friends. All entrants receive a snack pack along with all the other IMPI extras. The course is approximately 1km long, and children can complete as many circuits as they wish. Although parents cannot complete the course with their children, they can watch the supervised obstacle course as it encircles the Festival Area.

Another highlight is the Best Dressed Competition. IMPIs are encouraged to get creative and express themselves. The best dressed individual and/or team stands the chance to win awesome prizes.

2017 DATES TO DIARISE › 8 to 9 April – IMPI Challenge #1: Cape Town Coetzenberg Sports Complex, Stellenbosch › 14 May – IMPI Challenge #2: KZN Virginia Trails, Eston › 7 October – IMPI Challenge #3: Gauteng Smuts House, Irene, Pretoria › 18 to 19 November – IMPI Challenge #4: Cape Town Stellenbosch For more info and to enter, go to www.impichallenge.co.za.

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LEARN ENGLISH ON TOUR

CAPE TOWN WWW.MUIZENBERGTOURS.CO.ZA

+27(0)21-788-1950 | info@muizenbergtours.co.za

THE MUIZE MANSION CULTURAL CENTRE

www.themuize.co.za #lovemuizenberglife

A LIFE CHANGING EDUCATIONAL TOUR Experience Cape Town whilst learning English on a course specifically designed to help you navigate everyday life as a tourist. Here you will have the chance to learn English over two weeks with our certified TEFL English tutors whilst practising your language skills on various Cape Town tours. Learn it in the morning, use it in real life in the afternoon.

You will be supported and assisted at all times. The Muize campus located in Muizenberg, Cape Town has everything that could be wished for in a learning environment - mountain, river and ocean views provide a rich natural backdrop to your morning classes. Your luxurious accommodation at The Muize Bed and Breakfast - just a few doors down - is an excellent, central, seaside location from which to venture forth to the many places of interest our tours will take you to.

Once you arrive at Cape Town International airport we take care of everything.

comfortable affordable guesthouse accommodation

+27(0)21-788-1950

info@themuize.co.za

www.themuize.co.za

4 Axminster Rd, Muizenberg

Muizenberg Tours and Travel EXPLORE CAPE TOWN WITH US BOOKING OFFICE

. GUIDED TOURS . SHUTTLE SERVICES

TOUR SCHEDULE Sunday Arrive Cape Town International Airport, transfer to hotel Monday to Friday 0800 Breakfast Buffet at The Muize Bed and Breakfast 0900 Classes at The Muize Mansion, 3 x 45min sessions 1230 Light Lunch at The Muize Bed and Breakfast 1300 Cape Town Tours & Experiences (see schedule) 1800 Re-cap by language tutor and light supper or transfer to restaurants Saturday 0700 Breakfast buffet at The Muize Bed and Breakfast 0800 to 1800 - Full day tour (see schedule) Sunday 0800 Breakfast Buffet at The Muize Bed and Breakfast then free time 1400 Afternoon activity (see schedule) Final day check-out, airport drop off and fond farewell WEEK TWO

WEEK ONE HISTORICAL MUIZENBERG WALKING TOUR CAPE PENINSULA AND BOULDERS TABLE MOUNTAIN AND LONG STREET LOCAL VOLUNTEER PROGRAMME STELLENBOSCH WINELANDS EXPERIENCE FULL DAY GAME VIEWING WITH OPTIONS KIRSTENBOSCH EVENING CONCERT

MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN

SURFING LESSON AND BEACH DAY MONKEY TOWN V&A WATERFRONT & DIAMOND WORKS KIRSTENBOSCH BOTANICAL GARDENS TOWNSHIP ARTS EXPERIENCE FULL DAY SHARK VIEWING + OPT. CAGE DIVE FOND FAREWELL AND AWARD CEREMONY

PRIVATE DAY TOURS CREATE YOUR IDEAL SIGHTSEEING TOUR WITH US. TOURS CAN INCLUDE:

Table Mountain | V&A Waterfront | Wine Tasting | Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens | Boulders Beach | Cape Point | Long Street | Green Market Square | Franschhoek | Stellenbosch | Chapmans Peak & more...

All tours delivered by CATHSSETA certified guide with air conditioned luxury minibus

+27(0)21-788-1950

info@muizenbergtours.co.za

www.muizenbergtours.co.za

HIT T HE ROA D , J AC K

big

A guided tour of the new, exciting vehicles that have been spotted on our roads recently

Like the Big 5 in the bush, these vehicles have unique characteristics: some may be featured for their strength and speed, and others for their comfort and size.

Still bold and blazing – 2017 Chevrolet Trailblazer The updated Chevrolet Trailblazer is a refined and capable long-distance cruiser with seating for seven passengers. Top-ofthe-range models come equipped with the proven 2.8-litre Duramax Turbodiesel (VGT) engine that boasts 144kW, and a class-leading 500Nm of torque. No other body-on-frame SUV on the market can match this proven powertrain when it comes to torque output, which makes tackling even the toughest on-road as well as off-road challenges a walk in the park for the Trailblazer.

The combined fuel consumption figure for models with this engine is 9.5 litres/100km, CO2 is 249g/km. Acceleration

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from 0 to 100km/h takes 10.4 seconds, with a top speed limited to 180km/h. All models have a 76-litre fuel tank.

A ‘gradient braking’ function assists drivers with maintaining speed on difficult downhills—an especially useful safety benefit when towing. A fast-acting limited slip differential is ideal in this regard, too (also when driving on low-traction surfaces), and remains a feature of all models.

LTZ models are available with optional four-wheel drive with low range, which is the default setup on the Z71. Changing between the two-high, four-high and four-low drive modes is just a turn of a dial away.

The Trailblazer is fitted with an allnew Electronic Power Steering system, featuring Active Pull and Smooth Road Shake Compensation—which all adds to a smoother, more refined driving experience.

The vehicle is well suited to both the urban commute as well as long crosscountry adventures. It has all the comfort and convenience features expected from a luxury SUV of this size, including no fewer than five points for charging devices and eight cup holders. A great feature of the Trailblazer is the provision of adjustable air conditioning for passengers in all three rows. Fold-flat third-row seating is also a key defining feature

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of this thoughtfully designed family SUV. The centrepiece of the Trailblazer’s cabin is the seven-inch touchscreen.

The second-generation MyLink system is now compatible with Apple Carplay and Android Auto, which will enable consumers to use smartphones and associated applications effortlessly and seamlessly once connected via USB. Normal Bluetooth connectively remains, even if the device is not paired in this way. This will mean that on LT versions, phone-based navigation systems such as Google Maps can be displayed on the screen, while the LTZ models already have a fully integrated satellite navigation system.

Safety equipment across the range still includes ABS with EBD, Panic Brake Assist,

Hydraulic Brake Fade Assist, seven airbags (including full-length curtain airbags), a driver’s knee airbag for added protection, pre-tensioning seatbelts, ISOFIX child seat anchors and front park assist.

LTZ models benefit from the addition of Stabilitrak electronic stability/traction control, Hill Descent Control, and Trailer Sway Control. A rear-mounted camera parking-assistance system with crosstraffic alert is also fitted.

Technology added to LTZ models for the 2017 year are forward collision alert, lane departure warning, side blind-zone alert, rear cross-traffic alert, and tyre pressure monitoring—giving it one of the most comprehensive driver aid packages available at this level.

The Trailblazer is a very attractive proposition in this segment with its intelligent tumble-flat seven-seat configuration, generous equipment, excellent safety levels and established engines—all backed up by Chevrolet’s Complete Care after-sales package with a best-in-class 5-year/120 000km warranty and a highly competitive 5-year/90 000km service plan.

Price tags › › › › ›

2.5 LT 4x2 M/T 2.5 LT 4x2 A/T 2.8 LTZ 4x2 A/T 2.8 LTZ 4x4 A/T 2.8 Z71 4x4 A/T

R471 000 R489 100 R562 800 R624 300 R634 500

Pumped up – Toyota Hilux SRX The Toyota Hilux range remains one of the country’s favourite vehicles, topping sales charts on a consistent basis. These sales figures are testament to South Africans’ love, respect and trust for the ‘bakkie’.

The vehicle market can be a strange beast, with varying trends, buying patterns and market forces shaping it. To this end, Toyota has analysed the market carefully and—as the company prides itself on being client-focused—conducted indepth customer research. As a result of this approach, Toyota has introduced the upgraded Hilux SRX models.

The most significant change has been the move from the previous ‘narrowbody’ design to the new ‘wide-body’ construction. Metaphorically speaking, the Hilux SRX has been subjected to a rigorous gym exercise programme, with the result that it now stands wider, taller and more prominent.

The change to the wide configuration brings along with it bold, integrated over-fenders (as seen on existing Raider models) paired with a wider, front bumper design. This reprofiled exterior adds 55mm to the width of single-cab and double-cab SRX derivatives (up to 1 855mm).

Xtra-cab models already boast the wide-body construction and, as such, all three body shapes now share the same exterior width dimension. The exterior façade is enhanced with a change to wider-track 17-inch alloy wheels.

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As many fitness enthusiasts will testify, it’s all about the gains—in this regard, the ‘pumped up’ SRX’s vital stats definitely measure up.

The latest round of upgrades to the Hilux SRX positions it to occupy a unique space in the LCV market. While retaining its go-anywhere, do-anything utility credentials, the SRX derivatives now incorporate enhanced exterior styling that’s sure to appeal to the leisure buyer as well.

The new SRX package perfectly complements the sublimely capable 110kW, 400Nm 2.4-litre GD-6 engine (or 2.7-litre petrol VVTi powerplant) and delivers a bakkie that will work hard in

the week, while allowing its owners to play just as hard over weekends, too—and look good doing it.

The all-new turbodiesel engine is offered in two states of tune, with the higher output version delivering 110kW and, more importantly, 400Nm of torque— 57Nm up on the old 3.0 D-4D unit. From startup, it’s clear that this unit is surprisingly refined, with little diesel clatter audible in the cabin during idle or on the move.

As one would expect from Toyota, this bakkie is still one of the best one could buy!

Price tag › 2.4 GD-6 SRX M/T

R439 900

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HIT T HE ROA D , J AC K Solid, but no power pleaser– Renault Kwid An innovative and affordable vehicle, the new SUV-inspired Kwid hatchback— available in Expression and upper-level Dynamique variants—is positioned as the entry-point into Renault’s product line-up.

It overturns established entry-segment design cues thanks to its robust, stylish exterior plus a modern and welcoming interior equipped with generous cabin space as well as features and fitments normally unattainable in its class.

The Kwid offers a modern, intuitive interior that features technologies such as a navigation/multimedia system complete with large 18cm touchscreen display, radio and Bluetooth connectivity housed in its piano-black centre console with chrome surround (Dynamique only).

Both Kwid derivatives are powered by a new 999cc Smart Control efficiency engine mated to a 5-speed manual gearbox. With its distinctive SUV-like design and high ground clearance (at 180mm—more than any of its competitors), Kwid offers a high

driving position and greater visibility, making it ideal for zipping around in urban traffic or cruising down the open highway.

I liked the look of the vehicle, but behind the wheel I found it very lacking in power—and when the Cape Doctor was blowing, it was a challenge keeping it tight on the road. However, it’s an extremely fuel-efficient petrol-powered engine, paired to a 5-speed manual gearbox and delivering an incredible 4.71 litres/100km.

(The fuel tank holds 28 litres.)

I’ve said before that I’ve never been a Renault fan: Having owned one, I found

the parts and services always very expensive. Be that as it may, for a runaround car with some room and a reasonable price, it should do well.

The new Renault Kwid comes standard with a 5-year/150 000km mechanical warranty and a 6-year anti-corrosion warranty. Services take place at 15 000km intervals. (Optional service plans are available.)

Price tags › 1.0 Expression 1.0-litre SCe R119 900 › 1.0 Dynamique 1.0-litre SCe R129 900

Tantalising turbos – Hyundai Tucson Executive & Elite Diesel

Two new Tucsons, both with turbocharged diesel engines, have been added to Hyundai’s compact SUV range that became a top seller in its market segment in South Africa since the local launch of this model earlier in 2016.

The addition of the turbodiesel engines has increased the derivatives in Hyundai’s Tucson range to seven, including the five petrol derivatives.

Originally launched in 2005, the Hyundai Tucson caught the attention of South Africa SUV buyers and became a firm top seller in the segment for several

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years when it was followed its successor, the ix35, in 2009.

The new Tucson turbodiesels— launched at a very competitive price and with a comprehensive standard package— will certainly add a further boost to Hyundai Automotive South Africa sales and to its positive brand image.

One of the turbodiesel derivatives, on the Executive specification level, is powered by a new 1.7-litre engine that conforms to Euro 6 regulations for clean emissions and delivers 85kW maximum power at 4 000 rpm and 280Nm peak

torque between 1 250 and 2 750 rpm.

Power is transferred to the front wheels via a six-speed manual gearbox.

The other Tucson turbodiesel derivative is equipped with a full range of standard features at the Elite specification level, and uses a 2-litre Euro 2 CRDi engine that delivers 131kW maximum power at 4 000 rpm, and 400Nm torque between 1 750 and 2 750 rpm. A six-speed automatic transmission transfers power to the front wheels.

The turbodiesel duo has been added to the Hyundai Tucson petrol engine derivatives that range from the entry-level Hyundai Tucson 2.0 Premium, with either a manual 6-speed gearbox or automatic 6-speed transmission, to the range-topping Hyundai Tucson 1.6 TGDi Elite (turbocharged petrol engine) with the 7-speed Dual-Clutch Transmission and All-Wheel Drive.

The Executive offers a level of comfort and standard features that fits in between the Premium and Elite offerings. The Tucson design concept incorporates a sleek, urban style combined with the strong ruggedness typical of an SUV. Inside you’ll find soft-touch, highquality materials have been used across

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THE PLACE TO BE FOR YOUR NEXT OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

Warm hospitality is as much a Part of Cathedral Peak Hotel’s tradition as is the incredible natural and cultural heritage of the surrounding mountains. The Hotel boasts a vast array of activities for the whole family, from a heated swimming pool to mountain bike trails, a 5km marked jogging trail, volleyball, squash and tennis courts, helicopter flips, horse rides, guided quad bike rides, a 9-hole golf course with alternative tees, Bushman paintings, bird spotting, FREE daily guided hikes, adventure golf, games room, a climbing wall, a full gym and a wellness centre.

Tel: 036 488 1888 Email: info@cathedralpeak.co.za Web: www.cathedralpeak.co.za

HIT T HE ROA D , J AC K

the cabin surfaces, creating a refined interior ambience. The new horizontal layout of the centre console conveys the car’s elegance while increasing the feeling of roominess.

Both turbodiesels have electric adjustment for the driver and front passenger seats; a dual zone automatic climate control system; air vents for rear passengers; glove-box cooling; cruise control with buttons on the steering wheel; and a rear-view camera with display in the rear-view mirror.

The centre console of the Tucson features a sound system with Bluetooth connectivity than enables music to be streamed from a smartphone or iPod, and connecting with a cellphone with the added comfort and safety feature of steering-wheel operating buttons.

Using radar technology, the Blind Spot Detector with Lane Change Assist monitors the rear corners and, if another vehicle is detected, a visual alert appears on the exterior mirrors. If the driver then activates the indicators, an audible signal is emitted.

This also applies in a lane-change situation when another vehicle is detected.

Several passive safety features are included in the new Tucson. For occupants, there are six airbags—including driver, passenger, side and curtain—throughout the range. Both derivatives have ISOFIX child seat anchors in the rear bench.

The all-new bodyshell structure features 51% advanced high-strength steel, increasing torsional rigidity (up by 48%) to offer greater impact resistance. Straightened body connections, applied on dash chassis member and A-pillar, provide additional collision energy dissipation paths.

Hyundai’s 5-year/150 000km manufacturer’s warranty, enhanced by the groundbreaking 7-year/200 000km drivetrain warranty, comes standard with the Hyundai Tucson package, as well as roadside assistance for 5 years or 150 000km.

Price tags › › › ›

1.6 TGDi Executive M/T 1.7 UII Executive Diesel M/T 1.6 TGDi Elite DCT AWD R2.0 Elite A/T

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R439 900 R439 900 R519 900 R519 900

The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

Competent competitor – KIA Cerato With more than 3 million units sold globally over three generations since 2004, KIA Motors now has introduced an upgraded version of its highly successful Cerato range. With a strikingly refreshed exterior design, a tangibly upgraded interior as well as a spattering of innovative new features, the new KIA Cerato is poised to please.

Launched in South Africa in May 2013, the current third-generation KIA Cerato has quickly established itself as a high-quality offering in the C segment, as evidenced by the high ratings the model has received from owners. With an average Reevoo score of 8.8 out of a possible 10, the Cerato scores almost full marks from current owners and drivers for its comfort, value for money, practicality, features and specification.

The updated Cerato benefits from a new, more modern look that emphasises the dynamic muscularity of the car while retaining its low, coupé-like roofline, sleek silhouette and cab-forward styling.

Every model in the upgraded KIA Cerato line-up has received a range of updates to the interior: new materials to the dashboard and door trims, as well as to the centre fascia and console hood; while silver and piano-black trim add a more sophisticated ambience to the cabin. The gear-shift lever has also been redesigned for a higher quality and improved comfort when actuating shifts.

However, upgrades go beyond visual modifications: In the automatic models, to enhance driver engagement, the new Drive Mode Select system has three selectable modes—Normal, Sport and Comfort—which alter the effort required to turn the steering wheel, depending on driver preference.

The range is still available with a choice of highly efficient 4-cylinder engines and 6-speed transmissions, each channelling

power through the front wheels. At the entry point, the Cerato is powered by a 95kW 16-litre ‘Gamma’ engine, and a 118kW 2.0-litre ‘Nu’ engine. Both are comparatively lightweight, aided by cylinder blocks and heads made of cast aluminium, while multipoint injection aids lower emissions and higher efficiency.

The enhanced hatch and sedan are still available in EX trim (1.6 and 2.0, both offered with a choice of 6-speed manual or 6-speed automatic transmission), but the former range-topping 2.0 SX models have been deleted. In their place comes a new 1.6 SX model (hatch or sedan).

The 1.6 SX Hatch is only available with a 6-speed manual transmission, while the 1.6 SX Sedan is only available with a 6-speed automatic transmission.

The 1.6 EX models feature a vast array of standard convenience features including air conditioning, automatic light control, Bluetooth connectivity, steering wheel–mounted controls for audio and cruise control, front and rear electric windows, LED daytime running lights, an MP3/iPod/USB compatible radio with CD front loader, rear air vents, six speakers, 60/40-split rear seats, as well as ISOFIX child seat anchors. The more powerful 2.0 EX features identical specification, except for an upgraded instrument cluster and leather upholstery.

All KIA Cerato models come standard with KIA’s class-leading 5-year/unlimited kilometre warranty, 5-year/unlimited kilometres roadside assistance, plus a 5-year/90 000km service plan.

Price tags › › › › › ›

1.6 EX M/T 1.6 EX A/T 2.0 EX M/T 2.0 EX A/T 1.6 SX M/T (Hatch only) 1.6 SX A/T (Sedan only)

R299 995 R312 995 R340 995 R353 995 R344 995 R357 995

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STOR E L IS TI N G

WESTERN CAPE STORES Bayside Mall, Blouberg (021) 556-3861 bayside@capeunionmart.co.za Blue Route Mall, Tokai (021) 712-5979 blueroute@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk, Century City (021) 555-2846 canalwalk@capeunionmart.co.za

Hemmingways Shopping Centre, East London (043) 726-0908 hemmingways@capeunionmart.co.za

Secunda Mall (017) 634-7921 secunda@capeunionmart.co.za

Killarney Mall (011) 646-7745 killarney@capeunionmart.co.za

Walmer Park Shopping Centre, PE (041) 368-7442 walmer@capeunionmart.co.za

NORTH WEST STORES Brits Mall (012) 250-1909 brits@capeunionmart.co.za

Kolonnade Shopping Centre, Pretoria (012) 548-9811 kolonnade@capeunionmart.co.za

Vincent Park, East London (043) 726-2900 vincentpark@capeunionmart.co.za

Matlosana Mall, Klerksdorp (018) 462-0711 matlosanamall@capeunionmart.co.za

Mall@Reds, Centurion (012) 656-0182 redsmall@capeunionmart.co.za

Mall of Africa, Midrand MooiRivier Mall, Potchefstroom (010) 592 2210 KWAZULU-NATAL STORES (018) 293-1788 mallofafrica@capeunionmart.co.za Boardwalk Inkwazi Shopping Centre, mooirivier@capeunionmart.co.za Mall of the South, Aspen Hills Richard’s Bay Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg (011) 682 2361 CapeGate Shopping Centre, Brackenfell (035) 789-0321 (014) 537-3651 mallofthesouth@capeunionmart.co.za boardwalk@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 982-2000 waterfall@capeunionmart.co.za capegate@capeunionmart.co.za Menlyn Park Galleria Mall, Durban (012) 368-1015 (031) 904-2318 Cavendish Square, Claremont LIMPOPO STORES menlyn@capeunionmart.co.za galleria@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 674-2148 Lephalale Mall cavendish@capeunionmart.co.za Nicolway Bryanston Gateway World, Durban (014) 763-1278 (011) 706-7573 (031) 566-5111 lephalale@capeunionmart.co.za Constantia Village nicolway@capeunionmart.co.za gateway@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 794-0632 Mall of the North, Polokwane constantia@capeunionmart.co.za Northgate Shopping Centre La Lucia Mall (015) 265-1067 (011) 794-1022 (031) 562-0523 mallofthenorth@capeunionmart.co.za Gardens Centre northgate@capeunionmart.co.za Lalucia@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 461-9678 gardens@capeunionmart.co.za OR Tambo International Airport GAUTENG STORES Midlands Mall, Pietermaritzburg (011) 390-3245 Atterbury Value Mart, Pretoria (033) 342-0152 Mill Square, Stellenbosch ortambo@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 991-3171 midlands@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 886-4645stellenbosch@ atterbury@capeunionmart.co.za capeunionmart.co.za Rosebank Mall The Pavilion, Westville (011) 442-1959 Bedford Centre, Johannesburg (031) 265-1666 Mountain Mill Mall, Worcester rosebank@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 615-3097 pavilion@capeunionmart.co.za (023) 347-1484 bedford@capeunionmart.co.za worcester@capeunionmart.co.za Sandton City Watercrest Mall, Durban (011) 884-9771 Brooklyn Mall, Pretoria (031) 763-1489 Paarl Mall sandton@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 460-5511 watercrest@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 863-4138 brooklyn@capeunionmart.co.za paarl@capeunionmart.co.za The Glen Shopping Centre, Oakdene (011) 436-1300 NORTHERN CAPE STORES Mall@Carnival, Brakpan Somerset Mall theglen@capeunionmart.co.za Diamond Pavilion Shopping Mall, (011) 915-0470 (021) 852-7120 Kimberley carnivalmall@capeunionmart.co.za somersetwest@capeunionmart.co.za The Grove Mall, Pretoria (053) 832-3846 (012) 807-0642 Centurion Mall Tygervalley Shopping Centre diamondpavilion@capeunionmart.co.za thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 663-4111 (021) 914-1441 Kalahari Mall, Upington centurion@capeunionmart.co.za tygervalley@capeunionmart.co.za Vaal Mall, Vanderbijlpark (054) 331-3631 (016) 981-5186 Clearwater Mall, Roodepoort V&A Waterfront Quay Four kalaharimall@capeunionmart.co.za vaalmall@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 675-0036 (021) 425-4559 Kathu Village Mall clearwater@capeunionmart.co.za quayfour@capeunionmart.co.za Wonderpark Shopping Centre, Pretoria (053) 723-2736 (012) 549-4203 Cradlestone, Krugersdorp V&A Waterfront Travel & Safari kathu@capeunionmart.co.za wonderpark@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 662-1530 (021) 419-0019 Kuruman Mall cradlestone@capeunionmart.co.za waterfront@capeunionmart.co.za Woodlands Boulevard, Pretoria (053)712-0175 (012) 997-6960 Cresta Shopping Centre West Coast Mall, Vredenburg kuruman@capeunionmart.co.za woodlands@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 478-1913 (022) 713-4113 cresta@capeunionmart.co.za BOTSWANA STORES weskus@capeunionmart.co.za FREE STATE STORES Francistown, Pick n Pay Centre Eastgate Adventure Centre Loch Logan Waterfront, Bloemfontein 00267-241-0398 (011) 622-8788 GARDEN ROUTE (051) 430-0230 francistown@capeunionmart.co.za egac@capeunionmart.co.za Garden Route Mall, George lochlogan@capeunionmart.co.za (044) 887-0048 Gamecity Lifestyle Shopping Centre East Rand Mall, Boksburg Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein gardenroute@capeunionmart.co.za Gaborone (011) 826-2408 (051) 444-6060 00267-391-0948 eastrandmall@capeunionmart.co.za Knysna Mall mimosa@capeunionmart.co.za gamecity@capeunionmart.co.za (044) 382-4653 Forest Hill City, Centurion Dihlabeng Mall, Bethlehem knysna@capeunionmart.co.za Riverwalk Mall, Gaborone (012) 668-1030 (058) 303-1372 00267-370-0040 foresthill@capeunionmart.co.za Langeberg Mall, Mossel Bay dihlabeng@capeunionmart.co.za riverwalk@capeunionmart.co.za (044) 695-2486 Fourways Mall mosselbay@capeunionmart.co.za NAMIBIA STORES (011) 465-9824 MPUMALANGA STORES Maerua Mall, Windhoek fourways@capeunionmart.co.za The Market Square, Plettenberg Bay Highveld Mall, Emalahleni 00264-612-20424 (044) 533-4030 (013) 692-4018 Greenstone Shopping Centre windhoek@capeunionmart.co.za marketsquare@capeunionmart.co.za highveld@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 609-0002 The Grove Mall of Namibia greenstone@capeunionmart.co.za i’langa Mall, Nelspruit 00264-612-53161 EASTERN CAPE STORES (013) 742-2281 Heidelberg Mall thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za Baywest Mall, Port Elizabeth ilanga@capeunionmart.co.za (016) 341-2031 (041) 371-1416 heidelberg@capeunionmart.co.za OUTLET STORES Middelburg Mall baywest@capeunionmart.co.za Access Park, Cape Town (013) 244-1040 Hyde Park Corner (021) 674-6398 Fountains Mall, Jeffreys Bay middelburg@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 325-5038 accesspark@capeunionmart.co.za (042) 293-0005 hydepark@capeunionmart.co.za Riverside Mall, Nelspruit fountainsmall@capeunionmart.co.za Woodmead Value Mart, (013) 757-0338 Irene Village Mall Johannesburg Greenacres Shopping Centre, PE nelspruit@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 662-1133 (011) 656-0750 (041) 363-1504 irene@capeunionmart.co.za woodmead@capeunionmart.co.za greenacres@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk Adventure Centre (021) 555-4692 cwac@capeunionmart.co.za

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H OW E TO T RAVEL

TEA WITH THE QUEEN Graham Howe gets a taste of the old town of Darjeeling, up in the hills of the Himalayas

“O

n my curves watch your nerves,” advises an old sign on the way to Darjeeling. Frankly, it’s difficult to keep your eyes on the road when so wittily distracted. “Road is hilly, don’t be silly,” warns a stone cairn on another hairpin mountain bend. An unknown signwriter employed long ago by the Public Works Department of West Bengal—stencilled “PWD”—sure had a knack of making up road-safety rhymes.

Getting up to Darjeeling requires skill, faith and a head for heights. We leave the task to our good driver Santos and to the protective spell of Ganesh, the elephantheaded God of Good Fortune who keeps a lookout from the dashboard. Spotting signs keeps our eyes averted from the abyss on the ascent. A row of rainbow prayer flags flutter on a hazardous bend, where the next sign admonishes: “Don’t be rash and end in crash.”

The incredible journey up to Darjeeling in the Himalayas starts at sea level. It takes us four hours to cover 90 kilometres and ascend 2 000 metres to the old tea town known as the “Queen of the Hills”. Driving into the clouds, we are slowed by the monsoon rains and the legendary fog that swirls through the Teesta River Valley.

Vanishing into a canopy of giant ferns, the mountain road zig-zags through a lush landscape of cardamom, banana, pepper and tea plantations, all shrouded in mist.

Along the way, we chew yak curd (I thought our guide had said “yak turd” when he offered it to us), a local antidote to altitude sickness. Those little chunks are the hardest chewing gum I’ve ever masticated, softening in our mouths while we ascend the foothills of the Himalayas.

On ascending the heights of Darjeeling (2 134m), we feel as triumphant as Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reaching the summit of Mount Everest in May 1953. Villagers, schoolchildren and monks in saffron robes are heading home to the jumble of dwellings on stilts that scramble down the terraced slopes.

Passing the bustling mini-bus station on Hill Cart Road—named after the ox-carts that conveyed people up the mountains

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before the car and railway—we finally reach our destination.

A faded portrait of Norgay, Darjeeling’s most famous Sherpa, hangs in The Elgin, the oldest hotel in the hill stations. Warmly welcomed with a silken khata ceremonial scarf draped around our necks (and some cherry liquor), we fill our passport details in a leather-bound ledger that harks back to the Raj era. With its teak furniture, paisley upholstery, pergola, English country garden, curries and high teas, the residency built by the Maharaja of Cooch Behar in the 19th century exudes old-world Victorian charm.

Perched on a ridge, Darjeeling is set in a spectacular amphitheatre of five of the world’s highest peaks: a range known as Khangchendzonga (8 585m), Tibetan for “big five-peaked snow fortress”. The hill station Dorje Ling—meaning “land of the thunderbolts”, with Dorje being the mystical thunderbolt of the Buddhist lamas—is steeped in the mythology of the mountains. Norgay wrote: “The Himalayas have always been part of our history and tradition. They are in our blood. They are the abode of the gods.”

Exploring Darjeeling on foot, we puff and pant in the high-altitude air on the steep path up to Tenzing’s tomb at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, where he trained generations of climbers. Beneath the motto, “May you climb from peak to peak,” the dusty museum exhibits capture every ascent of Everest and the peaks.

Along with trekking and tourism, tea is big business in Darjeeling. It all started in 1841 when Dr Arthur Campbell planted the first seeds of the Chinese Camellia sinensis plant and began experimenting.

The tea gardens flourished, making Darjeeling a household name for tea—and breaking China’s monopoly. Today, every fertile acre is covered with a thick-ply carpet of tea bushes, from the river valley to the terraced slopes of the Himalayas. A visit to a tea estate is one of the highlights in the ‘tea junction’ of the world.

“Chai time” proclaim the signs of a thousand-and-one tea and tiffin (luncheon) shops clinging to the precipice.

We visit a tea store at Chowrasta Bazaar,

the old Victorian square where you can buy anything from beads and Buddhist prayer flags and wheels, to a Tibetan hat and a Bhutanese shawl. The tea merchant expertly demonstrates the quality of grades of Darjeeling’s orange pekoe tea by cupping the loose tea together in his palms, vigorously rubbing and blowing on the leaves to release the aroma.

We start developing a warm feeling for Darjeeling. All its major tourist attractions start with a “T”: tea gardens, trekking, Tibetan monasteries (the eight gompas with their temples, frescoes and prayer wheels)— and the “Toy Train”. Train buffs come from all over the world to ride the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, one of the most spectacular steam train trips in the world, and listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

The faithful old engines built in Glasgow in the 1870s still pull the train up the hills.

A station master in a suit waves us off with a flag at the Victorian station that proclaims, “Welcome to the most touristfriendly hill railway in the world!” Feeling as excited as Harry Potter going off to Hogwarts, we wave out of the windows of the tiny carriage drawn by a bright blue engine named Tusker. Darjeeling vanishes in a great hiss of steam and puff of smoke as we chug up the narrow-gauge toy tracks to Ghoom (2 257m), the highest railway station in Asia. We’re in for the ride of our life.

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T HE L AST WO RD

It’s a “Good morning, sunshine!” from Alastair Thomas. lead vocalist for South African indie-rock band Shortstraw

We’re still dead keen to tour America, specifically the West Coast. We’d love to road-trip from Seattle down to San Diego, playing at the same venues at which all our favourite bands have performed before.

› Who’s a bush baby and who’s a city slicker?

› What’s your idea of a perfect weekend?

I grew up in PE, building forts and climbing mountains, so definitely a bit of a bush baby, but the rest of the guys grew up in Joburg, so they’re probably more of the city slicker type.

These days, it’s nice to just mooch about at home.

› Braai or sushi? › Which favourite places have you already ticked off your bucket list?

Braai any day!

Japan is a firm favourite among the Shortstraw camp. The Japanese are the most fun-loving and generous people we’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting.

› What’s the most memorable experience you’ve had with wildlife?

› What’s the weirdest food or drink you’ve ever tried?

We were at a Japanese barbecue where we cooked and ate pig anus! (At least we think that’s what they said it was.) It was very chewy.

› We hear you guys are adrenaline junkies. Ever tried shark-cage diving, bungee jumping, parachuting, abseiling?

Yeah, we’re pretty open to anything! We haven’t done anything too crazy yet as a band. Tom [Revington] has bungeejumped Bloukrans. There’s a video—it’s hilarious! But I think we’d all be keen to skydive. Maybe not Gad [De Combes].

Or Russ [Grant]. Snakes are out of the question for me.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 17

Getting to hold a koala bear was pretty special. Cutest things ever!

› If you were stuck on a desert island, would you guys know how to make a fire without matches, and how to catch dinner?

We’ve watched enough of Bear Grylls to know you don’t need fire or food— you just need to drink your own urine.

Survival!

› Do you prefer to camp or stay at a luxury lodge?

Hey, if there’s a luxury lodge on offer, we ain’t gonna say no!

› What advice would you give to the young singers, songwriters, composers and musicians of South Africa?

Don’t be a doos.

› Where’s the band’s favourite place to perform in South Africa?

Probably Pretoria.

› What’s next for Shortstraw?

› If it were up to you, what should be done to the people running the rhino horn trade?

We’re busy releasing our new album, track by track, each month until September, which is really exciting— because we haven’t finished writing all the songs yet! So we’re constantly writing and composing, being creative and staying on our toes. We’re off to Europe and the United Kingdom in April/May, which is both daunting and awesome. We have loads of upcoming shows as well, which you can check out at shortstraw.co.za.

Cut off their noses. And lock them up for a very, very long time.

Interview by Paige Watt

› Who makes the best food?

I make killer nachos, and Gad makes the best pancakes.

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› What are the top destinations on your ‘bucket list’ of places to which you’d like to travel?

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