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Igor Vukić Lemmerer Igor Vukić&&David David Lemmerer

rock cLimbing guidE for

Bosnia and Herzegovina Penjački vodič za Bosnu i Hercegovinu

Rock climbing guide fo R

Bosnia and Herzegovina Jakob Schrödel, Interklemezzo Project, Kanjon Tijesno © Sebastian Wahlhütter

Penjački vodič za Bosnu i Hercegovinu


This guidebook belongs to... Ovaj vodiÄ? pripada...

Name/Ime

Adress/Adresa


A BIG THANK YOU goes out to our main sponsors who substantially supported the creation of this book/VELIKO HVALA ide našem glavnom sponzoru koji je značajno podržao izdavanje ovog vodiča:

We are also very grateful for the big contributions of all the other sponsors to this project/Takođe smo veoma zahvalni i svim ostalim sponzorima koji su doprinjeli realizaciji ovog projekta: • • • • •

Ministry of Trade and Tourism Republika Srpska/Ministarstvo trgovine i turizma Republike Srpske Tourist organization of Banja Luka/Turistička organizacija grada Banjaluka Government of Canton 10/Vlada Kantona 10 Municipality of Mrkonjić Grad/Opština Mrkonjić Grad City of Prijedor/Grad Prijedor

Lastly, a deep and sincere thank you goes out to all the people who supported this book in one way or another: The bolters, climbers, volunteers and supporters of climbing clubs, our local and international advertisers, media partners and photographers, our partners, friends and family, our hosts and the local villagers who tolerate us in their space. We would like to honor a select few people who especially contributed to the realization of this project. This book would have never been possible without your trust, support, effort and all the pieces coming together/Na kraju, duboko i iskreno se zahvaljujemo svima koji su na bilo koji način podržali ovaj projekat: opremačima smjerova, penjačima, volonterima i članovima penjačkih klubova, domaćim i međunarodnim oglašivačima, medijskim partnerima i fotografima, partnerima na projektu, prijateljima i porodicama, domaćinima i lokalnim stanovnicima koji su nas tolerisali u svom prostoru. Posebno se zahvaljujemo nekolicini ljudi bez kojih ovaj projekat ne bi uspio. Ovu knjigu nikada ne bismo završili bez vašeg povjerenja, podrške i truda a sve to dolazi zajedno: Abdulah Sudžuka, Admir Andelić, Admir Šarić, Adnan Đuliman, Aida Muminović, Aldin Milunić, Alma čaušević, Almir Imamović, Anja Bečan, Antonio Radić, Armin Gazić, Besim Muminović, Bojan Lovšin, Catalina Chiţacu, Denin Osmanović, Denis Josipović, Dragan Ilić, Dženan Hozić, Edin Zuhrić, Hannes Kutza, Haris čusto, Helga Lemmerer, Igor Katalinski, Ingmar Fuhrich, Iris Schrimpf, Iva Miljević, Ivana Mijić, Jakob Schrödel, Jan Dreger, Jelena Simović, Joshua Carter, Julien Mayet, Katja Koppensteiner, Lejla Porobić, Ljiljana Doroslovac, Martin Jansenberger, Martina Martić, Mladen Šukalo, Momir Zubović, Mugdim čolić, Nada Vukić, Nadin Kevelj , Namik Pirkić, Paolo Pezzolato, Reinhard Kahrer, Roberto Ferrante, Salih Mulaosmanović, Sanel Marić, Sanja Vukić, Sebastian Wahlhuetter, Snježana Ivetić, Stefan Ekmečić, Svetozar Vukić, Tarik Rustempašić, Tijana Karić, Vedran Ugljen, Želimir Rnjak, Zoran Ćosić, Zoran Novaković


Bojan Hribernik and Matic Noč, www.itgetsbetter.org (7b+, 120 m), Kanjon Tijesno © Luka Tambača


introduction

1. introduction Climbing in Bosnia and Herzegovina? To most climbers from Western Europe, the country is still a big question mark, unlike the neighbouring Croatia which has been a very popular touristic destination for climbing and seaside holidays for decades. The usual associations go something like this: "Uhm, Bosnia.. Isn’t that this small country next to Romania? Didn’t they have a war, is it safe to go there now? Great barbecuers! Yeah, I know someone from Bosnia from school/work - nice guy/girl!” The same general confusion applies to Rock Climbing as a sport in Bosnia and Herzegovina itself, where football, basketball and karate firmly dominate the sportive spectrum. The typical range of questions: “Sport climbing, what is that? Why would you climb on rocks? Are you crazy, do you have a death wish? How high have you climbed? So you are an alpinist? I didn’t know this sport exists and we have it in our country.”

Peter Schwamberger on top of Kameni most © Sebastian Wahlhütter 10


introduction

Sarajevo sunset © Midhat Mujkić

To all the curious climber souls, wandering minds and the “I’ve seen it all’s”: Good news is, there still are a few spots on the map that are off the beaten path. Until now Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the last secret, underrated climbing destinations in Europe - a country rich with diverse mountain landscapes, rocky canyons, hilly forests, quiet villages, welcoming locals, great food and plenty of high-quality limestone crags in wild, romantic locations! Until now, Bosnia Herzegovina was one of the last countries in Europe who didn't have a modern, up to date climbing guidebook. Since Edin Durmo’s first sport climbing guidebook "Bosna i Hercegovina - Penjački Vodič" from 2000, a lot has happened! From about 2010 a small, climbing-hungry community perfected the art of building a climbing culture and infrastructure almost from scratch under precarious post-war circumstances and difficult access to climbing and bolting gear. They constructed small self-organized gyms all over the country and soon started to grow out of the few older crags to explore and make their first bolting steps in the newly discovered places. Annual climbing events of different formats, such as regional climbing festivals,

competition circuits and memorial get-togethers increased the exchange of climbers from BiH, attracted a growing number of international visitors and produced a growing media output. From 2012/2013 there was a real climbing boom! More than 60% of the existing routes of BiH were bolted only in these recent years! It’s astonishing that such a small country has such diverse, highly interesting and naturally gifted regions that all share a strong regional identification and a distinctive feel! Especially over the last five years, we visited all corners of the country, bolted in a lot of different areas, made many new friends and were astonished when we realized how many crags have been established already. Some of them are smaller local training crags, other bigger ones have over 100 routes that are as good, diverse and picturesque as in any other popular crag in Europe, just without the crowds! Soon we agreed that it’s about time to take the next step and produce this guidebook - as a common document of this renewed post-war climbing community that honours all the local climbers and volunteers who built this together. 11


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1.1 Using this book/K ako koristiti vodič This climbing guidebook has four main chapters. Chapter one is a country info section for those wishing to learn more about the history, geography and nature of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The second chapter contains all necessary travel resources and provides practical information on transport, accommodation, food and drinks, money matters and budgeting, as well as health and safety issues. Chapter three presents the history of Sport climbing in BiH, climbing culture such as festivals, events, gyms, artificial climbing structures and a few notes we wish you consider before you head out. The actual core of this book, the 34 climbing areas in 4 regions, are presented in chapter four. In the beginning of each region you find the regional map with an overview of all climbing areas and additional information and photos to give you a better idea what to expect.

Ovaj vodič se sastoji od četiri poglavlja. U prvom poglavlju ove knjige možete da saznate nešto više o istoriji, geografiji i prirodi Bosne i Hercegovine. Drugo poglavlje vam donosi praktične informacije o prevozu, smještaju, hrani i piću, novcu i budžetu, kao i zdravlju i sigurnosti. Treće poglavlje se bavi istorijom sportskog penjanja, penjačkim festivalima, događajima, salama, vještačkim stijenama i uputama koje bismo željeli da pročitate prije samog penjanja. Glavni dio ovog vodiča, koga čine 34 penjališta raspoređena u četiri regije, je prezentovan u četvrtom poglavlju. Na početku svake regije nalazi se regionalna mapa sa obilježenim penjalištima, kao i dodatne informacije sa slikama regije.

Every climbing area has the following structure:

Sva penjališta imaju sljedeću strukturu:

1. Climbing area overview/Pregled penjališta

1.1

Zečiji kamen 500m

10’

40m

Krajina 0

2

1 0

11

∑ 14

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10 11 12

GPS Parking: 44.998448, 16.880982 | GPS Crag: 45.001399, 16.883033

In this section you find basic information about the climbing area, such as:

U ovom dijelu možete saznati osnovne informacije o penjalištu, kao što su:

• Orientation of climbing area, elevation of climbing area, approach time, maximum route length, suitability for rain, family friendly, quality of protection and steepness of rock. • Chart overview of routes’ grades and total number of routes.

• Orjentacija stijene, nadmorska visina penjališta, pristupno vrijeme, maksimalna dužina smjera, pogodnost za kišno vrijeme, pogodnost za penjanje sa porodicom, kvalitet osiguranja, nagib stijene. • Pregled smjerova po težinama i ukupan broj

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• In addition, there is also information about the best season to climb. It should be noted that climbing might also be possible outside these recommendations, depending on the weather and the time of day. • As additional information, for each climbing area there are GPS coordinates of the parking lot, and if necessary, also for the climbing area itself or certain sectors.

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smjerova. • Pored toga tu su i informacije o najboljoj sezoni za penjanje. Ovdje treba napomenuti da je penjanje takođe moguće i prije početka odnosno nakon kraja najbolje penjačke sezone, zavisno od vremenskih uslova i doba dana. • Kao dodatna informacija, za svako penjalište su date GPS koordinate parkinga, a po potrebi i samog penjališta, odnosno pojedinih sektora.

2. Climbing area description/Opis penjališta This text highlights the specifics of each crag with a bit of background information on the location, its main developers and what to expect in terms of a rock, climbing style, ambience and favorable weather conditions.

Ovaj tekst naglašava specifičnost svakog penjališta sa informacijama o samoj lokaciji, opremačima smjerova, vrsti stijene, stilu penjanja, ambijentu i vremenskim uslovima.

3. Approach/Pristup Here is a text description of the approach to the climbing areas that complements the climbing map.

Ovdje je dat tekstualni opis pristupa penjalištu koji je dopuna mapi penjališta.

4. Climbing area map/Mapa penjališta

2

4

9 km 3 km

Banja Luka

ACCOMODATION/ SMJEŠTAJ 1 Camp/Kamp Vrbas 2 Hostel Topić POINTS OF INTEREST/ TAČKE OD INTERESA Vrbas river/Rijeka Vrbas 3 Zvečaj ruin and viewpoint/Ruina Zvečaj i vidikovac 4 Rafting club/klub Kanjon LOCAL CLIMBING CLUB/ Lokalni penjački klub Climbing club/Penjački www.extremebl.com

3

1 km

klub

Extreme:

1

Jajce 21


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The climbing area map always shows the approach to the crag from the parking lot, including main landmarks that are relevant for orientation. All the maps are north oriented! In addition, the map contains information about nearby accommodation and points of interest, which are marked on the map by yellow circles with numbers inside. Each mark on the map that is outside of the territory shown on the map, has an arrow added to it, indicating the direction and the number of kilometers from the mark (not from the crag or parking lot) to the accommodation or point of interest. The map is complemented by an info box that explains what the markings are representing. The legend also contains information about the local climbing club or crag developer to be contacted if you are interested in bolting new routes or if you need some additional information.

Na mapi penjališta je predstavljen pristup penjalištu od parkinga sa označenim glavnim orjentirima. Sve mape su sjeverno orjentisane. Pored toga mapa sadrži i informacije o obližnjem smještaju i tačkama od interesa, koje su na mapi označene žutim krugovima sa brojem unutra. Uz svaku oznaku koja se ne nalazi na teritoriji pokrivenoj mapom dodana je strelica koja označava pravac i broj kilometara od oznake (ne od penjališta ili parkinga) do smještaja odnosno do tačke od interesa. Mapa je upotpunjena informativnim dijelom koji pojašnjava šta koja oznaka predstavlja. Tu se nalaze i informacije o lokalnom penjačkom klubu ili glavnom opremaču kojeg možete da kontaktirate ukoliko ste zainteresovani da opremate smjerove ili ukoliko vam trebaju neke dodatne informacije.

5. Topo and table of routes /Skica i tabela smjerova

E 6b+

6c?

6b+ 7a 6b+ 6 7a? 4

1 2 3

#

Route

Grade

Meters

1

Ovlaživač šajbe

7a?

30

2

Duo statt solo

6b+

30

3

Sweaty or wet

7a

30

4

The Rainman

6b+

30

5

Liječeni rupofiličar

6b+

35

6

Le bateau ivre

6c?

35

5

On most of the topos the routes grades are marked on the line. The topo is followed by a table of routes in which each route has the following information: route name, grade and length. If there is a question mark next to the grade (eg 7a?), this means that the route is not yet redpointed, but that that is the estimated grade. It's not common to have closed project routes in Bosnia. 22

Čelinka

Na većini skica označene su težine smjerova. Skicu prati tabela smjerova u kojoj o svakom smjeru postoje sljedeći podaci: ime smjera (Route), težina (Grade) i dužina (Meters). Ukoliko pored težine smjera stoji upitnik (npr. 7a?), to znači da smjer nije još uvijek redpoint-ovan ali da je to predpostavljena ocjena. U BiH nema zatvorenih projekata. Ekstenzije postojećih sm-


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Extensions of existing routes are indicated by the letter beside the number, so if for example the route number 19 has two extensions, they will be marked with 19a and 19b. If the route is a multipitch route, in addition to the basic data, the table of routes also contains information on the individual lengths and grades of each pitch, as well as information about the bolters and the year when the route was created. Boulders’ grades are marked with a capital letter (eg 7A). If the boulder requires a sit start, then this is marked with "ss" next to the boulder name.

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jerova su označene sa slovom pored broja, pa tako ukoliko na primjer smjer broj 19 ima dvije ekstenzije one će biti označene sa 19a i 19b. Ako je smjer višedužinac pored osnovnih podataka tabela smjerova će još sadržati i informacije o pojedinačnim dužinama i težinama svake dužine, te informacije o opremaču/ima i godini kada je smjer nastao. Ocjene boldera su označene velikim slovima (7A). Ukoliko ulaz u bolder zahtjeva sjedeći start onda se pored naziva smjera nalazi "ss".

David Lemmerer in his route Bonobo (7a+), Blagaj © Archive David Lemmerer 23


A

brief

history

Mehmed Paša Sokolović bridge over Drina river from 1577, Višegrad © Svjetlana Novaković

1463 Ottomans conquer Bosnia. 1482 Ottomans conquer Herzegovina. 1528 Castle Jajce, the last Bosnian bastion fell. 1875 The Herzegovina uprising against the Ottoman administration contributed ¬to the “Great Eastern Crisis”, which led to the Russian-Turkish war. 1878 Beginning of Austria-Hungarian occupation.

1918 Austria-Hungary collapsed at the end of WWI. BiH became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes. 1929 The Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes is renamed Kingdom of Yugoslavia (The land of the South Slavs). 1939 BiH is divided in the Croatian/Serbian Cvetković– Maček Agreement.

1908 Annexation of BiH by Austria-Hungary.

1941 Nazi Germany attacks and conquers Yugoslavia. Bosnia becomes part of NDH, the "Independent state of Croatia", a fascist puppet state of Germany.

1914 Assassination of Habsburg heir Archduke Franz Ferdinand by Gavrilo Princip in Sarajevo, leading to World War I.

1941 Two resistance movements formed: One was headed by Josip Broz Tito, the later long-term president of second Yugoslavia.

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1943 BiH’s sovereignty is restored at the AVNOJ (AntiFascist Council for the National Liberation of Yugoslavia). 1945 Bosnia-Herzegovina became one of six republics within the Socialist Federation of Yugoslavia. 1980 Death of Josip Broz Tito. 1984 XIV winter Olympics games held in Sarajevo. 1990 First free elections in BiH. 1991 Breakup of Yugoslavia: Succession of Slovenia. Start of war in Croatia. 1992 Referendum for the independence of BiH. In April, BiH received recognition as an independent country. After a series of incidents in March 1992, war broke out in BiH. 1995 In November, the Dayton Peace agreement ended the war: It stipulated that the country retained its pre-war external boundaries, but is composed of two parts: The Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina (FBiH, the Bosniak and Croat portion) which administers 51% of the country including the capitol Sarajevo, while the Serb Republic, Republika Srpska (RS, Serb portion), would administer the other 49% with its capitol Banja Luka. 2004 Opening of the reconstructed 16th century bridge in Mostar, former national symbols of BiH. 2010 Visa-free travel to the EU for citizens of Bosnia and Herzegovina. 2016 Bosnia and Herzegovina formally applied for EU membership.

Café ANJ, Mostar © Martin Jansenberger 29


Ge o g r a p h y

&

N at u re

1.3 Geography & Nature/Geografija i priroda Bosnia and Herzegovina is truly a land of variety! On only 51.129 km2, which isn’t much bigger than small Switzerland, the heart-shaped country has enormous natural resources. The country’s biodiversity has been created and subsisted for thousands of years in areas relatively still untouched with little research and scientific acknowledgement. Three types of climate predominate the country – continental, mountain and mediterranean climate. The largest part of BiH is dominated by the heart section of the Dinaric Alps, a mountain chain that runs from Italy to Albania and high karst landscapes, forests and pastures. The highest peak is Maglić (2386 m) in the east at the border to Montenegro. There are eleven more peaks higher than 2000 m. Bosnia and Herzegovina is rich with natural mountain lakes, which are rightly called "mountain eyes" due to their clear blue water. The country also has a short access to the sea in the south, with a 21.1 km long coastline near Neum. Most of the country is dominated by the Dinaric highlands that spread throughout the whole of Bosnia and Herzegovina. They form one of the largest limestone mountain ranges in Europe, which makes the country ideal climbing, and mountaineering terrain! The karst landscape is characterized by different formations such as coves which are spacious land repressions along larger cracks in the karst. There are also karst valleys which are huge plateaus with flat, nonfloodable bottoms, which are mostly created where the limestone and impermeable rocks meet. The largest karst valleys are located in the Northwest, as well as in western and eastern Herzegovina. Research shows that BiH is the most forested country of all southeastern European countries. About half of the territory of BiH is covered with thick jungle like forest vegetation! Historically this characteristic held lucrative logging opportunities from Austro-Hungarian times until today where big amounts of timber are often cut semi36

legally and sourced to Italy but can also be found in IKEA products. The most productive forests in BiH are montane and high montane forests. High montane forests are mostly mixed deciduous (seasonal leafy) and coniferous (evergreen) ecosystems, in deep brown carbonate and silicate soils. These ecosystems are composed of many different species among which the most important in the area of BiH is the European beech, the sycamore maple, the Norwegian maple, the Scots elm and others. Coniferous forests are mostly made up by the Norway spruce and the European silver fir. Bosnia and Herzegovina also is blessed with fresh water, according to the World Bank report from 2012, Bosnia and Herzegovina is the country with the highest amounts of drinking water in the region and the seventh in Europe with just under 10.000 m3 of drinking water per capita. The rivers and lakes of Bosnia and Herzegovina belong to the Adriatic and Black Sea watersheds, with the longest rivers being the Drina, Sava, Bosna, Vrbas and Neretva that all also hold a big emotional value for the local population. Almost all bigger rivers in Bosnia and Herzegovina flow north into the Sava river (Northern border with Croatia) which is the biggest tributary of the Danube. The only river that flows south into the Adriatic Sea is the Neretva in Herzegovina. There is a huge karst area in Herzegovina which contains a vast amount of groundwater underneath, so-called sinking rivers and streams that either emerge or remain submarine springs that serve as smaller tributaries to other rivers. A special characteristic of waters in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the big number of waterfalls which add to the unique charm of the landscape. Among the most significant and most beautiful are the spectacular, underrated Štrbački buk (23.5 m high, the biggest waterfall in BiH) and Martin Brod in the west on river Una, the waterfalls of Pliva and Jajce, as well as the touristic Kravice waterfall and Koćuša on the river Trebižat, both in Herzegovina. Waterfalls on smaller rivers or even streams are significantly higher: Skakavac


Ge o g r a p h y

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Maglić mountain © Dejan Kulijer

(98 m) north of Sarajevo and Skakavac (75 m) in the Perućica rainforest of Sutjeska National Park. Among the highest waterfalls in the Balkans are the cascades of the Studeni stream which drops 400 m into the Rakitnica River canyon. This canyon is still not completely explored since it’s one of the most inaccessible in southeastern Europe. These waterfalls go hand in hand with the plentiful canyons and gorges that are another highly characteristic natural component of Bosnia and Herzegovina and usually full of rock! They represent the development centers of flora and fauna and are great biodiversity refuges such as the gorges and steep slopes of the mountains in the basins of the Una, the Vrbas, the Bosna, the Drina and the Neretva. This fact also indicates that the rock can tend to be quite overgrown with thick vegetation in some places that otherwise host gorgeous shields of rock. The higher flora in BiH contains around 5000 confirmed species, subspecies and forms. As much as 30% of the total endemic flora of the Balkans (1800 species) is found in BiH!

The recordings of fauna show that the animal kingdom in BiH is wealthy and diverse, especially compared to other countries of the Balkan and Europe in general. BiH has a strong genetic diversity of domestic species, which have acquired special genetic characteristics by adapting to the local environment. This is reflected in a big number of authentic local animals and plant species. As many animal species have been domesticated for centuries, some of them have evolved as distinct ecotypes. Examples are local animals like the Bosnian mountain shepherd dog breed Tornjak, the Bosnian mountain horse, Busha and Gacko cattle or Pramenka sheep. For visitors interested in the natural history of BiH, the biggest and the most valuable collections of the studies conducted between the 19th and 21st century are preserved in the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina in Sarajevo. Although BiH has one of the richest biodiversity portfolios in Europe (for example, the small Sutjeska National Park has more plant species than all of Poland), barely 2% of the national territory is protected, while in the European Union 37


T r a v el I n f o r m a t i o n

2. Travel information

Historic center of Sarajevo Š Midhat Mujkić 46


T r a v el

Info r m at io n

Country facts Country name

Bosnia and Herzegovina

Location

Southeastern Europe; borders with Croatia (932 km), Serbia (312 km) and Montenegro (215 km)

Land area

51,129 km²

Language

Bosnian, Croatian, Serbian - highly similar variations of a polycentric south-Slavic language

Population

Approximately 3.5 million

Religion

Muslim (50.70%), Orthodox (30.75%), Catholic (15.19%), Atheists (0.79%), Agnostic (0.31%), Others (2.26%)

Capital

Sarajevo (estimated population 400 000)

Other major cities and towns

Banja Luka, Tuzla, Zenica, Mostar, Bjeljina, Brčko, Bihać

Administrative divisions

Two entities and one district: Federation of BiH (ten cantons) and Republika Srpska; Brčko district

Highest point

Maglić Mountain (2,386m)

Time

Central European Time (GMT +1 hour)

Currency

KM (Konvertibilna marka) or BAM (Bosnian mark). 1€ = 1.95 KM/BAM (fixed Rate)

International telephone code

+387

Climate

Alpine continental in the north, Mediterranean in the south

Economy

Metal, agriculture, tourism, forestry, energy

Major airlines

Austrian Airlines, Turkish Airlines, Croatia Airlines, WizzAir

Main international airport

Sarajevo

Voltage

Standard European, 220V

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T r a v el I n f o r m a t i o n

sa svim planinarskim udruženjima na području Balkana: www.mountain-huts.net. Alternativno, na sajtu staze Via Dinarica nalazi se spisak planinskih loža i koliba koje nude smještaj: www.viadinarica.com

veoma niske, u manjim mjestima cijene su još niže. Obično je sve svježe! Kafana - lokalni bistro koji prvenstveno služi alkoholna pića i kafu, a često i manje zalogaje tzv. meza Kafić - mjesto u kom se uglavnom služe kafa i razne vrste pića. Restoran Pekara Aščinica - izvedenica iz turskog jezika za restoran koji nudi tradicionalnu hranu Buregdžinica/Ćevabdžinica - mesto koje nudi samo burek/ćevape KUPOVINA HRANE

Tradicionalna hrana za kosce © Mladen Šukalo

2.3. HRANA I PIĆE MJESTA NA KOJIMA MOŽETE JESIT I PITI Iako se većina stanovništva bori sa finansijskim poteškoćama, vidjećete da postoji zapanjujući broj barova i kafića čak i u manjim gradovima i uvijek su puni! Ljudi u BiH su veoma druželjubivi, vole da se druže, šale i provode vrijeme zajedno. Nije obavezno dati bakšiš, ali 10% od ukupne cijene će biti sasvim dovoljno. Obratite pažnju da je pušenje dozvoljeno skoro svuda u zemlji, a više od polovine populacije puši. Strasni pušači će se osjećati kao da su vraćeni u zlatne dane prije regulacije, ostali neka budu spremni na zadimljene barove, kafiće i restorane. Postoje najave da će se ovo uskoro promjeniti. Vjerovatno ćete primjetiti veliki broj pekara koje obično imaju mješavinu lokalnih namirnica kao što su pite (burek, sirnica itd.), slatka i slana peciva, pice i sendviče po vašem izboru. Cijene su 74

Kvalitet hrane u Bosni i Hercegovini je veoma dobar. Većina povrća, povrća, mesa i mliječnih proizvoda su uglavnom lokalnog porijekla i dalje se proizvode na malim farmama na tradicionalan način. Preporučujemo da pogledate/obiđete lokalne tržnice (pijace). To je odličan način da nabavite jeftine, svježe namirnice i da podržite lokalne farme. Obično su oko gradskih centara, ponekad u zatvorenom i rade tokom jutra i ranog popodneva svaki dan. Samo se raspitajte! Veliki dio stanovništva i dalje uzgaja hranu u sopstvenoj bašti, kao što su to činili mnogo vjekova ranije. Djelimično zbog tradicije a djelimično iz ekonomskih razloga, oni proizvode niz ukusnih namirnica kao što su sezonsko domaće voće, povrće ili jaja i med koji prodaju pored puta. Obratite pažnju na štandove ili znakove sa natpisom sir, jaja, med itd. Trgovački centri u velikim gradovima su izuzetno snabdjeveni i njihova ponuda će zadovoljiti svačije potrebe. Veći gradovi obično imaju i prodavnice koje su otvorene 24 časa dnevno, na vratima se nalazi mali prozor kroz koji prodavac preuzima narudžbu i donosi vam potrebštine koje ste naručili. U selima postoje prehrambene prodavnice (trgovine) negdje duž puta, koji imaju uži izbor hrane, pića i potrebština za svakodnevnu upotrebu.


T r a v el

Info r m at io n

KULTURA ISHRANE Tradicionalna kuhinja Bosne i Hercegovine je kalorična kuhinja koja primarno koristi mješavinu lokalno dostupnog snažnog začinskog povrća poput luka, paprike, mrkve, gljiva, tikvica i mesa različitih vrsta i stilova pripreme. Lokalne adaptacije turske i austrougarske kuhinje imale su jak uticaj na današnju bosansku kuhinju. Oni su u prošlosti vladali ovom regijom vijekovima, što je vidlijvo kroz nazive hrane. Ako ste pozvani na ručak ili večeru u nečiju kuću, možete očekivati da se prema vama ophode kao na gozbi, s obzirom da ovi ljudi gostoprimstvo i njegovanje društvenh odnosa shvataju veoma ozbiljno! U Bosni i Hercegovini je uobičajeno za gosta koji je prvi put pozvan u nečiju kuću, da donese mali poklon, poput kafe, slatkiša ili bombonjere. Ako ne možete više jesti ili piti, nije dovoljno reći ne, jer će domaćin, kako bi se pokazao dovoljno dobrim, dopunjavati vaš tanjir sve dok ne kažete Ne mogu više! Lista najpopularnijih tradicionalnih jela: Ćevapi – male mesne kobasice napravljene od govedine, jagnjetine ili mješavine mesa. Obično se poslužuju u lepinji uz svježi crveni luk. Ćevapi su uglavnom veličine prsta, a poslužuju se u porcijama od 5 do 10 komada, iako kao izuzetak postoji banjalučki ćevap, koji izgleda kao pločica sastavljena od četiri komada. Pita – kraljica bosanske hrane: tradicionalna pita se pravi od rolnica filovanog tijesta koje se slažu u redovima smještenim jedan do drugog ili su oblikovane u zaseban zvrk (pite spiralnog oblika). Različite varijante podrazumijevaju burek (pitu sa mesom), krompirušu (pitu sa krompirom), sirnicu (pitu sa sirom), zeljanicu (pitu sa zeljem), pitu sa tikvicama ili sa glijvama. Krompiruša i pita sa gljivama su veganske. Uglavnom se jede sa jogurtom. Jela pod sača – slično holandskim pećima, najbolji tradicionalni način pripreme hrane! Pripremljena hrana se smjesti u veliku metalnu tepsiju, koja se smjesti na užareni ugalj. Nakon toga se na tepsiju stavi poklopac, te se komplet-

Banjalučki ćevap © Arhiva TOBL

na posuda u potpunosti prekrije ugljem, te se jelo ostavlja da se tako ispeče. Ajvar – vrsta namaza za hljeb. Priprema se od pečenih crvenih paprika i patlidžana i ponekad sa dodatkom ljutih papričica. Porijeklom je iz Srbije, a postao je popularno jelo u cijeloj Jugoslaviji nakon Drugog svjetskog rata i veoma popularno na Balkanu. Čorba – supa ili gulaš pripremljena na različite načine. Poznata je Begova čorba, gusta čorba koja se priprema od piletine i bamija. Đuveč – jelo od mesa i povrća (ili samo povrća) pripremljeno u rerni, slično ratatuju. Tradicionalno se peče u zemljanoj posudi, po kojoj je i dobilo ime. Može se pripremati sa piletinom, svinjetinom, jagnjetinom, ponekad govedinom ili ribom. Što se tiče povrća, koriste se luk, paradajz, tikvice, patlidžan, grašak, krompir, mrkva, paprika i ostalo. Musaka – jelo napravljeno od slojeva mljevenog mesa i krompira. Sarma – meso i riža umotani u kiseli kupus ili listove grožđa. Filovane paprike – kuvane paprike punjene mljevenim mesom i začinima. Bosanski lonac – autentični bosanski kulinarski specijalitet pripreman na isti način stotinama godina. Ova hrana se sprema u slojevima mesa i povrća u dubokom loncu. Sastojci se sijeku na velike komade i kuvaju nekoliko sati. Uštipci – kuglice slanog tijesta koje se prže u ulju poput krofni. Uglavnom se jedu sa sirom, kajmakom i ajvarom. Vegetarijanska zakuska! Načini pripreme mesa Prasetina – cijelo prase pečeno pored otvorene 75


Edin Durmo, VE (4c), Kanjon Tijesno © Unknown

84


Cl i m b i n g

History

of

BiH

3.1 Climbing History of BiH/Istorija penjanja u BiH sections in mountaineering clubs. This was an attempt to create a common base of alpinists and to systematically solve the problem of the organization of alpinism and deficiency of educated and skilled alpinists, but without financial support to speed up problems resolution. The same year, the first alpine course in BiH was held on Prenj Mountain, which had a federal character and was attended by eight representatives of BiH. In the following decades number of alpinists significantly increased. Every decade had its prominent names who had significant ascents in the mountains and rocks of BiH, as well as abroad.

Kanjon Tijesno © Unknown

Alpinism in BiH First climbing ascents that had an alpine character were recorded in the period from 1929 to the beginning of the Second World War. There are also some notes of earlier attempts in alpine climbing. At that time, alpinism was seen as an extremely risky activity which was often criticized and contested. Until 1935, the alpine actions were individual, after which the first alpine organisations (sections) were established. Compared with the rest of Europe, alpinism came relatively late in BiH, as in all other former Yugoslavian countries, except Slovenia. After World War II, everything had to start all over again. During this period, the restoration and revival of mountaineering as a movement begins. In the Mountaineering club Romanija, in 1949, the Alpine department Sarajevo was formed, with an aim to become the driving force for the development of alpinism and the formation of alpine

For more information on the development of alpinism in BiH, read the brochure entitled „80 godina alpinizma u Bosni i Hercegovini“ (80 Years of Alpinism in Bosnia and Herzegovina), edited by Slobodan Žalica and published by Planinarski savez Federacije/BiH (Mountaineering league of the Federation/BiH). If you are more interested in the ascent and traditional routes from that period, then read the guide „Velike stijene u planinama Bosne i Hercegovine“ (The Great Rocks in the Mountains of Bosnia and Herzegovina) by authors Slobodan Žalica and Petar Hilčišin, also published by Planinarski savez Federacije/BiH.

Umpah-pah (4a), Kanjon Tijesno © Unknown

BEGINNINGS OF SPORT CLIMBING The beginning of sport climbing in Europe started around the end of the '70s, although the beginning of sport climbing in BiH does not have 85


A

word

before

you

go

3.4 A word before you go Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country with a lot of well preserved nature. International tourism is relatively small and mostly centered around the main cities, almost unnoticeable is the number of climbers. Therefore, the impact on local communities and the surrounding nature of the crags is still very low.

Village Borogovo, Osmaci © Igor Vukić

You’ll notice that the attitude of local villagers towards visitors, in whose neighborhood you’ll climb, might be a bit curious at first, but they will quickly warm up and are usually very hospitable! This is due to climbing being such a new sport in the region. Most crags are very local, almost like a private living room feeling, where you'll rarely meet another climber. Most local climbers are usually happy to meet new faces and and share their crags, an unlikely situation in the busy, “too cool for school” atmosphere in popular, crowded crags in Europe. We hope that through the publication of this guide and the increased popularity of our sport, this fortunate situation won’t change Please take this friendly reminder of a few basic rules that come as a small but important responsibility for enjoying these places.

106

Villages & Access The life in a village is different to that in a city. Many of the smaller places will put you in a time machine. With mainly an older population that doesn’t get many outside visitors, please be considerate of their space. • While in a village please behave like a good visitor and don't wander around the houses and courtyards. • Respect the quietness and way of life that happens in the village. • If you approach someone’s house and don’t see anyone, announce yourself with big “Hello?”. In some remote areas people don’t get many visitors and we assume, most people don’t enjoy sudden surprises in their private space. • Preserve and strengthen good relationships with locals - That includes a friendly greeting (Dobar dan!), being polite and possibly buying local produce which is usually organic and very cheap. • Please act as an ambassador of climbing! For


A

word

before

you

go

Village life in Prnjavor, Rekavice, Kanjon Tijesno © Sebastian Wahlhütter

many locals our sport and the new interest in their backyard might still be a complete curiosity - Offer to include them, for example by letting them try climbing a few metres or by explaining how the gear works. • Try to stick to the designated parking info of this book. Never leave your car on courtyards, on people’s driveways, in the middle of a meadow, or anywhere where you could block access. • Camp only in official camping or ask local villagers for permission - Don’t camp at the base of crag!

Ecology Unfortunately, garbage can be a problem at some crags. Many villages don’t have any basic garbage collection or other means to get rid of their trash and sometimes this problem is intensified by a lack of ecological thinking. If you possibly like to give back something small to the community, you could pick up a bit of trash, and lead with a good example.

• TAKE ALL YOUR TRASH WITH YOU! • Even if there are garbage bins at the trail, take everything you brought with you. The bins usually don’t get emptied and the garbage tends to spill around. • There are usually big open containers along the main roads and next to gas stations, where you can dispose your garbage bags for free. • If possible, don't defecate into the nature - if there's no other way, bury your product or cover it with rock and use as little as possible of bio-degradable paper - Never do it under the wall or near paths! If you ever have the pleasure to step into human garbage at the crag, you will understand these words. • Please follow the "leave no trace " principle never destroy any plants, animals, don't damage rocks, signposts and other objects • Making a fire is still mostly accepted in this part of Europe, but be responsible: Pick a safe location, away from settlements where the fire doesn’t damage vegetation or rocks. Make a small fire pit with smaller rocks and kill the fire with sand or water, never leave 107


1.1 ze훾iji kamen

1.2 suturlija 1.3 kanjon tijesno 1.4 skubalj 1.6 zve훾aj 1.5 crna stijena 1.7 preko vode 1.8 kameni most

1.10 탑elin

1.11 klekova훾a

1.9 pecka

124


Kr ajina

4.1

Krajina

The Northwestern part of Bosnia has been known as the Bosnian Krajina or simply Krajina (“Frontier“) , a region with unique landscapes made up by lush open valleys, dense forests, spectacular rivers, unpopulated hillls and mountains that are still quite underrated compared to other regions of BiH. Sjeverozapadni dio Bosne je poznat kao Bosanska Krajina ili jednostavno Krajina (Granica). To je regija sa jedinstvenim pejsažima sačinjenim od plodnih otvorenih poljana, gustih šuma, spektakularnih rijeka i nenaseljenih brda i planina koji su još uvijek poprilično podcjenjeni u odnosu na ostale regije BiH. Kraj literally means “end” - for many centuries this area marked the end of the Ottoman empire towards the north and therefore was heavily influenced by its important historic role as a strategic hinterland between Southern and Northern forces. During the Ottoman rule Croats, Serbs and Vlachs moved from surrounding territories of the Ottoman Empire into this region. The Ottoman administration settled Muslim officials and soldiers of the Ottoman army in this land and gave the regional capitol Banja Luka a distinct oriental flavor. The 20th century added to the moving history of this region with the famous WWII battle at Kozara, while the last war broke

many neighbourly bonds that are now increasingly being rebuilt. Beyond an interesting history that goes back to Roman times, this corner has plenty of unique aspects to offer with a big natural and touristic potential! Banja Luka, BiH’s second biggest city, is a green place with a busy street life and a small music and culture scene. You’re never far from one of the many cafes, bars, bakeries, parks and a beautiful excursion spot in the hills or at the river. In the busy pedestrian street, there's also the most recognizable of Banja Luka's sights the Orthodox Christ the Saviour Cathedral. It is

Banja Luka city center © Archive TOBL

125


Banja

Luka

Area

Map Banja luka

1

3km

3

7

8

5

9

1 6

5km

4

2

3 5

12

4

6

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

2

6 11

Suturlija Kanjon Tijesno SkUbalj Crna Stijena ZveÄ?aj Preko vode Kameni most

7

10

136 3km

JaJce


Kr ajina

ACCOMODATION/ SMJEŠTAJ 1 Hostel Topić 2 Camp/Kamp Vrbas Food & drink/ Hrana i piće . Restaurants around Gospodska pedestrian street in Banja Luka/Restorani oko Gospodske ulice u Banjoj Luci (Kod Muje, Marcello; Vegetariand and Vegan friendly: Aj Zdravo, Hummus House, Zen restaurant) 3 Scuba diving bar/Ronilački klub Buk (riverfront terrasse/terasa uz rijeku) 4 Rafting club/Rafting klub Kanjon (riverfront terrasse with a restaurant and small beach/teresa uz rijeku sa restoranom i malom plažom) 5 Restaurant/Restoran Slap (riverfront terrasse with beach, swimming area and casscades/tereasa uz rijeku sa plažom, kupalištem i kaskadama) 6 Pizzeria/Picerija Kola (best pizza in Banja Luka area in small village Kola, open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday/najbolja pica u banjalučkoj regiji u malom selu Kola, otvoreno petkom, subotom i nedjeljom) Rest day & sightseeing/ Atrakcije i znamenitosti . Kastel Fortress (historical sight, summer concerts)/ Tvrđava Kastel (istorijska znamenitost, ljetni koncerti) . Tržnica farmers market/Gradska pijaca . Rafting and various beaches on Vrbas river south of Banja Luka/Rafting i plaže na rijeci Vrbas, južno od Banja Luke 7 Banja Luka city center/Centar Banja Luke 8 Vrućica hot springs/Termalni izvori Vrućice 9 Banj Brdo WWII Monument and Viewpoint/spomenik i vidikovac 10 Spring and watermills/Izvorište i mlinovi Krupa na Vrbas 11 Ethno museum/Etno muzej Ljubačevo 12 Viewpoint/Vidikovac Ljubačić Nightlife/ Noćni život . Bars/Barovi: Žiža, Eklektik, Pauza, Kadar . Clubs/Klubovi: Boom Boom Room, Tvornica, DKC Incel Vrbas and Crna stijena in the back © Ljiljana Doroslovac 137


Interview: Dženan Hozić

We should be happy we stayed alive. 142

Dženan holding a bolting course at the Drill & Chill festival © Hannes Kutza


In ter v ie w:

How did you start climbing? While I was at a camp in Bardača wetland, I met Mario Lukajić, who was one of the founders of the rock climbing group “Extreme” in Sokolski dom. He mentioned that he made a big climbing wall with his colleagues, so one night I went to check it out. Quite accidentally, on the way, I met Igor Vukić and a few friends from school. We tried it and have been ever since. That was in 2003. What kept you climbing besides your friendship with Igor? Well, I don’t know, I think that friendship was crucial hahaha… :-) I found myself in the sport somehow. I was also an active guy before, but I did not enjoy group sports much. I have always been climbing trees, my kindergarten’s roof, jumping over the fences etc.

Dženan

Ho z i ć

beauty of the line I was making. Now when I look back to some of my old routes, I see the unnecessary mistakes we were making in bolting, and I noticed how essential it is to know what are you doing. First of all you should be a relatively good climber, have some years of experience before you learn to bolt. But in our beginnings we couldn't do it in this proper order, if we wanted to climb outdoors then first we had to learn how to bolt and make the routes and then learn to climb them.

How did your beginnings of climbing look like? I remember during the winter it was very cold in our climbing gym, that was one of the main characteristics of that period. I also remember climbing for the first time in nature with Mario, we went to Kameni Most, and climbed the route Do jaja, a 5c which was the only multi-pitch (2 pitches) near Banja Luka. One scary moment was when we did not equalise the length of the rope, and while I was descending I felt the end of one side of the rope and immediately grabed and hung myself on the closes bolt. At that time, you did not know that you should tie the knot at the end of the rope? Yes, we also did not know how to equalize the ends of the rope along with some other things. I think we were quite good given the level of training we had; we should be happy we stayed alive. After that I started to read a lot, I was looking for books, articles, and then in 2006, I organised a rock climbing school (ie rock climbing courses which made climbing much safer). When did you start bolting, do you remember what was the first route you made? In 2004, during the work camp on Kameni Most, I made my first climbing route called Kraljica uzdaha, a 6a. Petar Pećanac was teaching me how to bolt, and I remember he was so jealous of the

Bolting in Pecka © Momir Zubović

Which is your favourite route that you bolted? I think it's Savršen dan, 6c in canyon Tijesno, but there are a lot of routes in the canyon that should be bolted or trad climbed, so this could easily be changed. I would also single out one more route, Meša Selimović, 7b at Pecka. 143


Kr ajina -

4.1.3

Kanjon

Tijesno

Kanjon Tijesno 220m

5-30’

210m

Krajina 0

6 8

15

35

∑ 64

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10 11 12

GPS Parking bottom: 44.683776, 17.177459 | GPS Parking top: 44.689164, 17.169969

Tijesno Canyon is 15 km from Banjaluka on the main highway to Jajce. The look up from the busy road offers spectacular views of 250 metres of rock that is structured by finger like ridges (or "the girls hair" - "Djevojačka kosa" as an old name says) and vertical faces extending almost down to the road. Kanjon Tijesno se nalazi na udaljenosti od 15 km od Banjaluke na magistralnom putu prema Jajcu. Sa prometnog puta pruža se spektakularan pogled na stijene visine do 250 m koje imaju strukturu grebena u obliku prsta na ruci (ili Djevojačke kose, kao što staro ime kaže) i vertikalnih stijena koje se prostiru skoro do ceste. The first climbs were established in the 1980’s by the pre-war generation of climbers from Banja Luka and Edin Durmo from Zenica, with alpine style trad routes and some aid sections. In the 1990s and early 2000s, it got very quiet in the Canyon. From 2010 a handful of sport routes and four multi pitch routes have been put up through the Amfiteatar, Chucho Mucho and Slalom sectors by the Climbing Club Extreme and friends. The area saw a massive development between 2015 and 2017 during the Drill & Chill festivals. It is always impressive to see how much rock can be folded into such a short stretch of road. It is a natural pearl, with the jungle like forest and the turquoise river below. The approaches are short and they host an abundance of solid limestone of all colours, styles and angles – hard & steep endurance hammers, slaby old-school sneaking, classic ridge scrambling, logical trad lines or plaisir jug-pulling. Currently there are around 180 pitches of climbing up to 200m, with difficulties mostly in the 6th and 7th French grades. Amfiteatar and Oker are both spectacular steep walls, with 70-100m 148

long iconic overhangs that currently offer around 120 pitches of futuristic sport climbing on grey and orange crimps, pockets and tufas, with the biggest density of some of hard routes and projects in the country and the potential for many more. The routes are exceptionally well bolted and typically equipped with double-chain ringanchors for rappeling. The other sectors have a bit of everything, beginners will enjoy the easier cruising in the Chucho Mucho, Djevojačka kosa and Kamen mudrosti sector, while the hungry should check the routes starting at the bottom of Amfiteatar and the Oker sector. It’s possible to climb all year round, since in the summer you can move to the west facing sectors in the morning and east facing sectors in the afternoon. In the winter, if there’s no wind and not too much snow you can easily climb in a T-shirt in the Amfiteatar sector and any sunny face. Prvi smjerovi su penjani 1980-ih od strane predratnih generacija penjača iz Banjaluke i Edina Durme iz Zenice. Uglavnom se radilo o tradicionalnim smjerovima alpskog stila sa elementima tehničkog penjanja. Devedesetih godina i


Kr ajina -

Kanjon

Tijesno

David Lemmerer checking new lines with Mr. Dž © Dženan Hozić

početkom dvadesetog vijeka, bilo je vrlo tiho u Kanjonu Tijesno, a od 2010. godine niz sportskih smjerova i četiri višedužinca su opremljena u sektorima Amfiteatar, Chucho Mucho i Slalom od strane penjačkog kluba Extreme i prijatelja. Područje je doživjelo ogroman razvoj između 2015. i 2017. godine zahvaljujući poznatom festivalu Drill & Chill Climbing and Highlining Festival. Uvijek je impresivno vidjeti koliko stijena može da postoji na tako malom prostoru. To je pravi prirodni biser, sa šumom poput džungle i tirkiznom rijekom ispod. Pristupi su kratki i obiluju mnoštvom čvrstog krečnjaka svih boja, stilova i nagiba; bilo da su to teški i prevjesni smjerovi na izdržljivost, old-school pozitive na ravnotežu, klasični grebeni za penjanje, logični tradicionalni smjerovi ili penjanja po velikim hvatovima za uživanje. Trenutno se tu nalazi oko 180 dužina smjerova visine do 200 m, sa težinama uglavnom 6 i 7 po francuskoj skali.

i narandžastim krimpovima, rupama i tufama, sa najvećom gustinom teških smjerova i projekata u zemlji kao i potencijalom za mnogo više. Smjerovi su izuzetno dobro opremljeni i obično imaju sidrišta sa dvostrukim prstenovima za spuštanje. Ostali sektori imaju pomalo svega, početnici će uživati u lakšim smjerovima u sektoru Chucho Mucho, Djevojačka kosa i Kamen mudrosti, a oni željni teškog penjanja bi trebali provjeriti smjerove koji počinju na dnu sektora Amfiteatar i Oker. Penjanje je moguće tokom čitave godine. U jutranjim časovima, ljeti, penjite na sektorima koji gledaju na zapad, dok za poslijepodne ostavite sektore koji gledaju na istok. Zimi, ukoliko nema vjetra i previše snijega penjanje je moguće na Amfiteatru ili bilo kojoj drugoj osunčanoj stijeni.

Amfiteatar i Oker su spektakularni sektori sa strmim stijenama, od 70 do 100 m dugim ikonastim prevjesnicama koje trenutno nude oko 120 dužina futurističkog sportskog penjanja na sivim 149


Julian Mittermaier on the 412m World record on a nylon highline across Tijesno Kanjon, Drill and Chill festival 2016 Š Sebastian Wahlhßtter 152


Kr ajina -

Kanjon

Tijesno

153


Kr ajina -

Kanjon

Tijesno

Village Rekavice E Amfiteatar A Oker

B Kamen mudrosti

D Chucho

Mucho

C Djevojačka

kosa

Banja Luka

A # 1

Oker heart Route

Grade

Meters

#

Route

Grade

Meters

Caries canines

6b+

175

4

Orange Snake

7c?

120

6a/20m, 7a+/15m, 7b+/20m, 7c/20m, 6c+/20m, 6a/25m - Žarko Kaličanin 2016

6a/20m, 6b/40m, 6b/30m, 6b/25m, 6b+/30m, 6b/30m - Lukas Fuchs, David Lemmerer 2017 2

Arterioclericalis

7a

160

6a+/25m, 6a+/20m, 6c/30m, 7a?/20m, 7a/30m, 6b/35m - Lukas Fuchs, David Lemmerer 2017 3

Afterparty

8b?

65

8b/25m, 6c+/20m, 7b/20m - Miha Škof 2015 154

15 km

5

HeartCore

8b+?

95

8a/30m, 8b+/25m, 6b+/40m - Julien Mayet 2017


kr ajina -

kanjOn

village rekavice

TijesnO

20'

6a

6b 7b

6b+

6b

6c+ 6c+ 7a 6b+

7c

8b+

8b 6b

7a? 7b+

8a

3 7a+

6c

5

6b 6a

4

6a+ 6b

6a+

6a 2 1 road

30' 155


Kr ajina -

Peck a

B A

216

F C

D

E


Kr ajina -

G

I H

J

Peck a

L K

Overview A B C D E F G H I J K L

Pecka

Ludi šeširdžija Narandžasta stijena Tataratira Krijumčari mačića Maršal Plaža Plazma Seoska olupina Čelinka Cunami Šumski Kraj svijeta

217


central

4.2

Bosnia

Central Bosnia

Jajce waterfall © Samed Žužić

Central Bosnia has a long and highly interesting history, with a visible mixture of eastern and western influences that were interwoven throughout the centuries. Centralna Bosna ima dugu i veoma interesantnu istoriju, posebno su vidljivi viševjekovni uticaji kulture Istoka i Zapada. This mountainous area is the heart of the political, cultural and religious national heritage of Bosnia: from the birthplace of the state of Bosnia from the 12th century, where all Bosnian kings resided, to the arrival of the Franciscan order whose Srebrena Bosna Province became a stronghold of the Franciscan church. After the Castle in Jajce fell during the 80 year long extended Ottoman conquest of Bosnia, Travnik later became the center of the Ottoman establishment. After WWII, Tito’s foundation of 2nd Yugoslavia was signed in Jajce. 248

The lush green countryside is scattered with ancient fortresses, monasteries, churches, mosques and highland villages. Travelling through this region, with Slavic ancestor’s roots that go back to the 7th century, one wonders why there isn’t a stronger local and international tourism to appreciate the historical richness of the sights, nature and the relaxed cities of Travnik, Jajce, Tuzla and Zenica. On the other hand, this region is facing difficult times. As one of many aspects of post-war times,


central

Bosnia

Vranduk village with citadel © Archive TZ ZDK

the economic situation is especially tough as the previously important industries and mining that were built in Socialist Yugoslavia which were once the biggest employers in this part of Bosnia are struggling to make a comeback and in the transition to a modern market economy. Economic and social ties are increasing again slowly. A major change has been the recent construction of Tuzla international airport, which now connects this part of BiH with many cities throughout Europe and has the potential to improve the economic status of this region. A positive remainder of the Socialist Yugoslavia times and the working-class tradition of recreation, many mountaineering clubs exist who built plenty of mountain huts and public recreation zones ("izletište"). Members of these clubs have often been active to equip new climbing routes.

Kamenolom is Bosnia’s first sport climbing crag and was very important in the beginning of sport climbing in the 1980s. After a long beauty sleep, all other climbing crags are extremely new and have only been bolted throughout the growing sport climbing trend of the last 3 years! They all share a very ‘local’ crag feel with character, still being developed further by and for the new growing climbing communities. There is lot of potential still hiding in the forest, on the mountains, and in the caves! Ovo planinsko područje je srce političke, kulturne i vjerske nacionalne baštine Bosne: od postanka prve bosanske države (XII vijek), gdje su svi bosanski kraljevi živjeli, do dolaska franjevačkog poretka čija je provincija Srebr249


He r z e g o v i n a

4.4

Herzegovina

Magical Mostar © Archive TZ HNK/HNŽ

“Herzegovina - California...” goes the chorus of the song “Hercegovina” by Mostar’s popular reggae band Zoster. "Hercegovina – Kalifornija..." Počinje refren pjesme Hercegovina, koju izvodi popularni mostarski rege bend Zoster. It continues: “Thickened from the sun, burnt by the bura (strong Dalmatian coastal wind)... I love being “Ero” (Herzegovinian) with kajmak (cream cheese) and... what I like for wine, I'm near the sea, close to the mountains... Herzegovina - California! I like how I am of rocky stones... Herzegovina - California...“. These few poetic lines perfectly describe this unique region. It is equally appreciated for its diverse, culturally rich, wild mountain landscapes, and fertile valleys as well as the especially laid-back and hospitable southern vibe that captivates the hearts of an increasing number of international visitors. Herzegovina’s topography has at least three faces: the western part is dominated by Bosnian karst topography. Some of the largest limestone caves in Southeast Europe and the biggest karst plateaus in the world, which extend into the northern Krajina region (Glamočko, Kupreško and Livanjsko fields) can be found here. Northern 368

Herzegovina until Konjic is generally very lush and green with some of BiH’s highest mountain massifs Prenj, Visočica, Čvrsnica and Bjelašnica which all have a strong mountaineering history and lots of wild freshwater with well developed water sports offers. Neretva river, the 225 km long blue pearl of Herzegovina, emerges in Zelengora mountains in the northeast and forced it’s path between Visočica and Bjelašnica, Crvanj and Prenj all the way through the central Neretva valley, passing Mostar until it joins the Adriatic Sea at the Neretva delta. This central Neretva valley is distinctively different from northern Bosnia, with a warm Mediterranean climate and a drier landscape that is visible in the widespread cultivation of grapes, mandarins, pomegranate and fig trees. Herzegovina was settled at least 12 000 years ago, with different civilizations leaving their mark on the land and its people. Southern and western


He r z e g o v i n a

Prenj mountain moonlight © Adnan Bubalo

Herzegovina have a strong Dalmatian influence with a mostly Croatian population. The influence of the Orthodox church is most visible in eastern Herzegovina. The main Neretva valley and surrounding highlands have a rich Ottoman history and mostly Bosniak population. Mostar is the cultural heart and unofficial capital of Herzegovina (population of 105 000). From the beginning of the Ottoman rule in the 15th century the city quickly became the center of its administration in Herzegovina and an important trading partner of nearby coastal Dubrovnik. The city is one of the finest examples of Ottoman urban development. The most famous legacy from that time can be found in the old bridge from 1557 (“Stari Most”), the old town and the Ćejvan-Ćehaj mosque, which is the oldest Ottoman monument in Bosnia. Many scars from the 1990's are still visible, but like the Old Bridge, which was one of the former national symbols of BiH, the city and it’s connections are being rebuilt continually. One of the factors that is inspiring a positive

perspective is the growing international and domestic tourism sector, with tourists from both Dubrovnik and Sarajevo visiting mainly Mostar and Međugorje, a catholic pilgrimage site. Apart from the conventional tourism sector, the vast natural beauty has a huge potential for all mountain sports and a blessed climate for kayaking, mountain biking, climbing, hiking and mountaineering. And finally, Herzegovina is rock country with a growing number of high-class, comfortable sport climbing areas that can be climbed all year round: from Drežnica which is the oldest, or the promising newer Mostar city crags, to Blagaj, a quickly growing upcoming new climbing epicentre. Livno, is just at the beginning of a of new climbing community in western Herzegovina and it’s exciting to know that there’s a small new, young generation of climbers and still immense rock potential waiting to be bolted in the next few years! Simultaneously, the renovation of mountain infrastructure, better signage, documentation and publishing of information of previous 369


He r z e g o v i n a - K u k

4.4.2

Kuk 840m

Herzegovina 1’

18m

0 0 0 0

7

∑ 7

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10 11 12

GPS Parking: 43.830624, 17.012796

Kuk is a nice, small sunny crag just across the crag Duman with a great view over Livno. Kuk je malo, osunčano penjalište preko puta penjališta Duman sa prelijepim pogledom na grad Livno.

Livno crew © Marin Mamuza 380


He r z e g o v i n a -

It’s hard to imagine that this place was previously used as an informal garbage dump. The local climbers dug out truckloads of trash from the bottom of the wall before they could bolt the first few routes. The rock has an interesting granite like structure made up by cracks and crimps the routes are all in the French 6th grade and are surprisingly pumpy and technical for the vertical terrain. In summer when it’s too hot to climb during the day, it’s not far to go to Buško lake for a swim. With a surface area of 56 km2 it is one of the largest accumulation lakes in Europe. The lake area

Kuk

was mainly farmland until 1974, when it was flooded to provide hydroelectricity for the Dalmatian coastline. Today the lake consists of a rich assortment of fish that are famous among anglers to produce some enormous catches. You probably wouldn’t dare to go in the water after you saw the size of the creatures living underneath the water surface. For further suggestions on other great opportunities for adventure sports and cultural offers in this area, check the brochure "Ecotourism in Livanjsko polje and surroundings", published by UNDP BiH, which is available for free online. Teško je zamisliti da je nekada ovaj prostor korišten za odlaganje otpada. Lokalni penjači su morali iskopati gomile otpada u podnožju stijene, kako bi mogli početi sa opremanjem prvih nekoliko smjerova. Stijena ima interesantnu strukturu nalik granitu i teksturu koju čine pukotine i krimpovi. Svi smjerovi su ocijenjeni sa ocjenom 6 po francuskoj skali. Smjerovi su iznenađujuće tehnički i vrlo lako napumpaju mišiće iako je stijena vertikalna. Preko ljeta, kada je prevruće za penjanje preko dana, možete se okupati u obližnjem Buškom jezeru. Sa površinom od 56 km2, jedno je od najvećih akumulacionih jezera u Evropi. Područje jezera je uglavnom pokrivalo blatno zemljište, koje je 1974. godine poplavljeno za potrebe hidrocentrale koja je snabdijevala strujom dalmatinsku obalu. Danas je jezero bogato raznim vrstama riba i popularna je lokacija za ribare, koji često odnesu velike ulove. Vjerovatno se ne biste usudili da uđete u vodu kad biste znali šta sve živi ispod površine. Za dodatne sugestije u vezi drugih izvanrednih prilika za avanturističke sportove i kulturnu ponudu ovog dijela BiH, preuzmite sa interneta besplatnu brošuru UNDP-a BiH pod nazivom "Ecotourism in Livanjsko polje and surroundings".

381


He r z e g o v i n a - R u pa

4.4.5

Rupa 320m

Herzegovina 20’

20m

0

2 1 0 2

∑ 5

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10 11 12

GPS Parking: 43.316526, 17.846329 | GPS Crag: 43.320543, 17.848828

Rupa with its cave and amazing limestone structures is a real treat for hard-movers who enjoy steep, bouldery climbing. This crag is one of the future premium climbing spots of BiH. Rupa, sa svojom pećinom i izvanrednim krečnjačkim strukturama, prava je poslastica za ljubitelje težih smjerova, koji uživaju u strmom, bolderastom penjanju. Ovo penjalište će biti jedno od budućih vrhunskih penjališta u BiH.

All routes were bolted by Salih Mulaosmanović, who is at the forefront of hard climbing in Herzegovina. The finely textured sexy grey tufas are a pleasure to look at and to climb on, but you should bring an equal mix of proper technique and proper power-endurance to make it through the steep bouldery top sections that put the lines in the 8th French grade. On the sides there are a few easy routes that will definitely see some new neighbouring routes very soon.

APPROACH/PRISTUP

This crag has similar weather conditions like Stolac: During the warmer months, it’s possible to climb all day since it’s mostly in the shade.

Na 4. kilometru od Mostara u pravcu Stolca u mjestu Opine skrenite lijevo a potom drugo desno. Pratite put koji vodi prema Austrougarskoj kuli. Parkirajte na kraju asfaltnog puta! Nakon toga pratite makadamski put do naredne krivine gdje se odvajate lijevo na obilježenu stazu koja vodi do penjališta (20 minuta hoda).

Sve smjerove je opremio Salih Mulaosmanović, predstavnik težinskog penjanja u Hercegovini. Fina tekstura sivih seksi tufa raj je za oči i penjanje, ali potrebna vam je dobra tehnika i mnogo snage i izdržljivosti kako biste prošli kroz strme bolderaste dijelove na vrhu stijene, zbog kojih su smjerovi ocijenjeni sa 8 po francuskoj skali. Sa strane postoji nekoliko lakših smjerova, koji će sigurno dobiti nekoliko novih komšija. Penjalište ima slične vremenske uslove kao i Stolac. Za vrijeme toplih mjeseci moguće je penjati cijeli dan, jer je stijena uglavnom u hladu. 418

Drive from Mostar towards Stolac. After about 4 km, in a place called Opine, take a left turn and then take the second right. Follow the road that goes towards the Austro-Hungarian castle. Park at the end of the road. Keep walking on the dirt road until the next curve where you turn a bit left following the marked trail (20-minute walk).


He r z e g o v i n a -

R u pa

© Antonio Radić

419


About

Balkan

Colours

&

Authors

About Balk an Colours & Authors /O BOjama balk ana i autorima

Navigating mined territory together © Balkan Colours

Ten years ago, we picked up the art of building something with minimalistic means, mainly volunteering at the Banja Luka Climbing Club Extreme. Throughout this time, we have been driven by the joy to explore the many wild landscapes and devoted much of our energy to the development of a dozen climbing crags with a few hundred routes in north-western BiH. Za deset godina smo uspjeli usavršiti vještinu stvaranja nečega novog sa minimalnim sredstvima, uglavnom volontirajući u banjolučkom penjačkom klubu Extreme. Tokom tog vremena bili smo vođeni užitkom istraživanja velikog broj divljih krajolika i posvetili smo dosta naše energije razvoju desetak penjališta s nekoliko stotina smjerova u sjeverozapadnoj BiH. 466


Climbing paper mountains © Balkan Colours

As much as generating climbing infrastructure, we have been working on strengthening an interdependent outdoor community through local and international events and the promotion of outdoor sports in local media and international climbing channels.

Koliko god da smo unapređivali penjačku infrastrukturu, trudili smo se i da povežemo penjačke zajednice kroz lokalne i međunarodne događaje i promociju sportskih aktivnosti na otvorenom u lokalnim medijima i kroz međunarodne penjačke kanale.

We founded this organization, because after many years of experience in this field, we feel ready to make a commitment for the careful development and protection of some of the last wild places in Europe. Our vision is to take an active part in the expansion of sustainable outdoor recreation in the region, which will benefit the local communities in a number of aspects. We are aiming for a win-win perspective by not only creating possibilities for practicing a healthy outdoor lifestyle in the region, but also to have a positive impact on local communities by contributing a financial perspective and regional development such as the renewal of villages and stronger connections.

Osnovali smo ovu organizaciju zato što se poslije mnogo godina iskustva u ovom polju osjećamo spremni da se posvetimo pažljivom razvoju i očuvanju nekih od posljednjih divljih mjesta u Evropi. Naša vizija je da budemo aktivni dio razvoja održive vanjske rekreacije u regiji, koja će doprinjeti stvaranju pozitivne slike iz velikog broja razloga: ciljamo na perspektivu obostranog dobitka ne samo stvarajući mogućnosti za upražnjavanje zdravog outdoor načina života u regiji, već i da imamo pozitivan uticaj na lokalne zajednice doprinoseći finansijskoj situaciji i regionalnom razvoju kroz obnovu sela i bolju povezanost.

Through our work we want to share the beauty and privacy of the natural jewels and historical heritage of this region with an international community of outdoor enthusiasts who are looking for fresh experiences and positive surprises. This region is known for its impressive hospitality which tends to foster some unforgettable memories and lasting impressions, so guests are likely to become returning visitors and friends.

Kroz naš rad želimo da podijelimo ljepotu i tajnovite kutke prirodnog bogatstva i istorijske baštine ove regije s međunarodnom zajednicom outdoor entuzijasta koji traže nova iskustva i pozitivna iznenađenja! Ova regija je poznata po gostoljubivosti koja stvara nezaboravne uspomene i ostavlja jake utiske zbog kojih se gosti uvijek rado vraćaju i stvaraju nova prijateljstva. Find our projects here/Više o nama ovdje: www.balkancolours.com 467


Essential

phrases

Alphabet

472

Latin

Cyrillic

Phonetic expression

A

А

as in past

B

Б

as in bat

C

Ц

as in cats

Č

Ч

as in chalk

Ć

Ћ

as in church

Џ

as in gin / fudge

Đ

Ђ

as in jack

E

Е

as in let

F

Ф

as in fit

G

Г

as in game

H

Х

as in heaven

I

И

as in east

J

Ј

as in yes

K

К

as in Kelvin

L

Л

as in love

Lj

Љ

as in million

Nj

Њ

as in canyon

O

О

as in opera

P

П

as in pick

R

Р

as in berry

S

С

s as in sound

Š

Ш

š as in shut

T

Т

t as in time

U

У

u as in shoot

V

В

v as in victory

Z

З

z as in zero


Essential

phrases

All clear? Kameni most Š Hannes Kutza 473


Was steht heute auf dem Programm?

Title/Naslov Rock climbing guide for Bosnia and Herzegovina/ Penjački vodič za Bosnu i Hercegovinu Publisher/Izdavač Balkan Colours/Boje Balkana Talijanskog bataljona Mateoti 6, 78000 Banja Luka Bosnia and Herzegovina/Bosna i Hercegovina www.balkancolours.com info@balkancolours.com Authors/Autori Igor Vukić & David Lemmerer

CIP - Каталогизација у публикацији Народна и универзитетска библиотека Републике Српске, Бања Лука 796.562(497.6)(036) 338.48(497.6)(036)

Photo © www.kalice.fr

VUKIĆ, Igor Rock climbing guide for Bosnia and Herzegovina = Penjački vodič za Bosnu i Hercegovinu/Igor Vukić, David Lemmerer. - 1. izd. - Banja Luka : Balkan Colours = Boje Balkana, 2017 ([s.l. : s.n.]). - 480 str. : fotogr. ; 23 cm Tekst na engl. i srp. jeziku. - Tekst štampan dvostubačno. ISBN 978-99976-723-0-8 1. Lemmerer, David [аутор] COBISS.RS-ID 6990616

480

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Rock Climbing Guide for Bosnia & Herzegovina  

Outtakes from the first rock climbing guide for Bosnia & Herzegovina. Designed and produced 2017. Authors: Igor Vukić & David Lemmerer. Fo...

Rock Climbing Guide for Bosnia & Herzegovina  

Outtakes from the first rock climbing guide for Bosnia & Herzegovina. Designed and produced 2017. Authors: Igor Vukić & David Lemmerer. Fo...

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