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The

Forumist

issue 18

Oneness


TÄNK STORT. TÄNK MINI.

MINI är inte en bil för alla. Men om du är en person som inte nöjer dig, som ifrågasätter det självklara och vågar tänka stort – då är livet med MINI för dig. Att tänka stort handlar om de små detaljerna. Som känslan av att kunna leva livet utan begränsningar. Eller att kunna njuta av en härligare, mer hållbar körupplevelse som är skräddarsydd för ett modernt, urbant liv – utan att behöva kompromissa på design. Vi har ett arv av att tänka stort, som går tillbaka ända till när Alec Issigonis utmanade alla konventioner i bilindustrin när han skapade den första MINI prototypen på 50-talet – en bensinsnål, smart och utsökt designad bil, anpassad för sin

#LifeWithMINI

tids urbana liv. Det här tankesättet har fortsatt genomsyra allt MINI gör. För vår övertygelse är att design kan förändra världen till det bättre. Att välja en MINI är mer än att välja en bil. Att välja en MINI handlar om att välja bort kompromisser och vara en del av ett kreativt sätt att leva. Och så länge du vill få ut mer av livet, kommer vi fortsätta göra allt vi kan för att bana väg. Upptäck livet med MINI på mini.se


Oneness Issue 18 Summer breeze gently grazing bare skins. Open flesh awakening hibernating joy and freedom. All over again we expose ourselves to the annual reawakening of summer, allowing our minds and souls to be nourished by all the possibilities that have come to bloom. What is the magical potion that completes this feeling growing inside of our minds? Individuality is praised as the modern philosophy of being by pushing the boundaries of our integrity and personal space. Our senses awaken full of thirst and go along hunting further into this urban jungle of information and expectations put forth on us to accomplish more and more, to reach for higher individual goals both on personal and professional levels. We are constantly exposed to the hustle and bustle of our everyday lives, leaving us with a gap for what is ultimately something greater than ourselves. After all, we are only human. Social creatures by nature, now more than ever do we need to make a call to grow together, to return to our roots of togetherness and rekindle the light that touches us all. Let all the positive energy, authentic creativity and rousing achievements come together to make us grow higher and stronger together. Let us join forces in love and passion, to create a better and more beautiful future for all of us. With all of the talented collaborators behind this issue, join our force to reach Oneness. COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: mélanie bordas. Styling: mari david. Hair & Make-up: Whitney Krill. Models: Laetitia De Montalembert at Viva and Lotka Lakwijk at Silent. Fashion Crew: Justine Mothe (Biarritz) and Daisy Oldfield (Paris). top and skirt by Sonia Rykiel; dress by Sonia Rykiel, two-piece by Dos Gardenias.

Beauty Editor Editor-in-Chief Pejman Biroun Vand (Stockholm) Céline Exbrayat (Paris) Creative Direction Daren Ellis (London)

Paris Editor Mari David

Fashion Co-ordinator Karolina Brock (NY)

Berlin Editors Veronika Dorosheva Ole Siebrecht

Content Co-ordinator Ulrika Becker (Stockholm) Web developer Gustav Bagge (Stockholm) Project Manager Joakim Skoglund (Stockholm)

New York Editor Angel Macias Music Editor Jonatan Södergren (Stockholm) Art Editor Jonas Kleerup (Stockholm)

Tech Editor Ashkan Fardost (Stockholm) Contributing Photographers Estelle Rancurelle (Paris) John Scarisbrick (Stockholm) Wanderlust (Paris) Nick Thompson (London) Irving Pomepui (Paris) Mélanie Bordas (Paris) Cesar Love Alexandre (NY) Thierry Lebraly (Paris) Johan Nilsson (Stockholm) Contributing Editors Tor Bergman (Stockholm) Jonas Olsson (Stockholm)

Contributing Fashion Editors Natalie Olenheim (Stockholm) Mari David (Paris) Laure Orset-Prelet (Paris) Fernando Torres (London) Elise Accart (Paris) Allyson Shiffman (Stockholm) Alexandra Conti (Paris) Rebecca Muzzioli (Paris) Sub-editor Ivana Lucic (London)

Advertising ad@theforumist.com © 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in the magazine are those of the contributors and not necessarily shared by the magazine

The Forumist AB Sveavägen 98 113 50 Stockholm SWEDEN info@theforumist.com theforumist.com facebook.com/theforumist instagram.com/theforumist

Printing MittMedia

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Neither here nor there

If a rose were not called a rose, surely it would still smell as sweet. If this were not a photograph but a photogram, take this for a feat. Photography by Thierry Lebraly Styling by Alexandra Conti Art direction & make-up by CĂŠline Exbrayat using Nars this page Clockwise from left: Top by Sandro, necklace by Justine Clenquet T-shirt by Neith Nyer, Jeans by Acne Jewels by Florence TĂŠtier oppsite page: Glasses by Ray Ban

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opposite page: T-shirt by Neith Nyer, Jeans by Acne this page clockwise from TOP left: Vintage top, necklace by Justine Clenquet T-Shit by Neither nyer, jeans by acne vintage t-shirt

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this page clockwise from TOP left: denim shirt by Isabel Marant, tank top by Petit Bateau, earring by My daughter is better than yours earring by Florence TĂŠtier stylists own opposite page: top by Monky, earrings by Justine Clenquet Models: Emma Cabrespines, Juliette Mercier, Marieme Silla and Chloe Leduc at GIRL Mgmt

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Field Day

Nothing like the summer sun to get you playing hookey for an afternoon. Photography by Irving Pomepui

Styling by Elise Accart

This page clockwise from top: jumpsuit by Tibi; sleeveless trench and trousers by Cerruti 1881, top by Tibi shirt and shorts by Cerruti 1881, shoes by Pregis from Apiccaps; shirt and trousers by Cerruti 1881, top by Vince jacket by Savoar Fer; shirt by Cerruti 1881 suit by Mr. Saturday, sneakers by Adidas Y-3; dress by Parosh, sleepers by Rosbalet OPPOSITE PAGE clockwise from left: trench by Kristina Fidelskaya, dress by Poustovit at the Place London, boots By Far; top by Kenta Matsushige, trousers by Rynshu, shoes Pregis from Apiccaps

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OPPOSITE PAGE clockwise from left: jumper by Dodo Bar Or; coat and boots by Kristina Fidelskaya, dress around waist by Tibi; jacket by Savoar Fer, jacket worn as a skirt by Cerruti 1881 THIS PAGE clockwise from top: all male trousers by Cerruti 1881; trousers by Tibi; skirt by Kenta Matsushige top by Cerruti 1881; dress by Nanushka, jacket by Kenta Matsushige; cardigan by De Fursac top by Nanushka; dress by Nanushka Hair & Make-up: Les Filles Models: Georgia at Oui Management, Coralie and Ulysse at City models, Jordan at 16men and Youssou at The Claw

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New York, New York The traditional power suit gets ripped up, torn apart and put back together. For who better wield the power in NYC; the home of creatives, punks and heathens than a group of self-made queens. Words and styling by Karolina Brock Photography by Cesar Love Alexandre this page clockwise From left to right: suit by A.P.C, socks Parker’s own; suit by Richard James, hair clip by Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise, heels West Dakota’s own; shirt coat by Moon Choi, shoes by Calvin Luo, earrings Alva’s own; suit by Eckhaus Latta, choker and platform heels Kyra’s own, the rest of the jewelry by Martine Ali Opposite page: suit jacket by Richard James, crystal chainmail halter by Kelsey Randall

As an epicenter for both community and individualism, New York is the place where people come to be simply themselves. The New York underground scene has for long hosted pioneering movements and served as a groundbreaking creative hub. Yet in our present and ever-connected world today merging subcultures with pop culture, new communities emerge where individuals bond by the need to express themselves freely without conforming. The Forumist brought together five creative natives living and breathing New York’s scene today. Meet dancer and social media star Parker Kit Hill. After graduating from Jeffrey Ballet school, he made a name for himself by seamlessly moving between dance and fashion worlds through his popular social media persona. His way of mixing high fashion with humor and dance has caught the attention of a dedicated fan base and created a celeb following. You’ll find him 14

standing out in a fashion crowd, or most recently, starring in Thome Browne’s latest fashion campaign shoot at Coney Island in New York. By boldly pushing boundaries and being fearlessly outrageous, Kyra Cherie makes art out of herself.. While teaching dance and cardio fitness and modeling by daytime, her night job is exotic dancing and hosting go-go dancing at parties. She is currently working on her first EP, incorporating mediums like theater, dancing, singing, fashion, and makeup into one project. “I think the fact that I work at a strip club is very telling of my 90s/2k sex icon inspired style incorporated with experimentation with fashion influenced by everything that makes me and inspires me “, she says. Growing up in London with American and Jamaican roots Alva Claire moved to New York to pursue her modeling career. Since then, she has made a mark with her personal style in a range of beauty and fashion campaigns. Her humble, bold and empowering personality shines bright in outlets like Allure, Document Journal, and The Cut, but most notably Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty campaigns that woke the industry up to a diversity shift.

It’s not for nothing that Vogue has compared drag-queen West Dakota’s star quality to Lady Gaga’s. Combining her weekly shows with modeling, West Dakota’s brilliance as a performer has earned her the title of ‘Drag Queen of the Year’ at the Brooklyn Nightlife Awards. And this is just the beginning. Her newest performance SUPPER can be seen at Ace Hotel in New York in a creative collaboration with a world champion competitive eater and a nail artist. Varsha Thapa has been named the first Nepalese model to make it on an international level and has become a shining star on the New York runway, working with fashion nobles like L’Oréal, Moncler, Vivienne Westwood, Gap, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue Vars. Her signature braids have been shot by Inez and Vinoodh and graced Nike campaigns. In addition to her stunning looks, Varsha also stands in the spotlight as a singer with her musical band Sita Virgin.


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OPPOSITE PAGE clockwise From left: shirt by Acne Studios, trousers by A.P.C, boots by MISBHV, earrings by Machete, suit jacket by No sense, shoes by Adieu, earrings Alva’s own, stockings stylist’s own; suit by Each x Other this page: suit by A.P.C, dress by Hyke

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this page top, clockwise From left: shirt, trousers and shoes by Calvin Luo, earrings by Metrix Jewelry, wolf ring by Captive Jewelry, other rings by Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise; suit by A.P.C, pins by Martine Ali, earrings by Machete, boots by MISBHV; suit by Richard James, crystal chainmail halter by Kelsey Randall, rings by Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise, heels Dakota’s own; suit jacket by Wan Hung, grey suit jacket by Richard James, earring’s Alva’s own, shirt, pants and shoes by CALVIN LUO, Earrings by METRIX JEWELRY, Wolf ring by CAPTVE JEWELRY, Other rings by RAINBOW UNICORN BIRTHDAY SURPRISE opposite page: suit by A.P.C, pins by Martine Ali, earrings by Machete Hair: Yasu Nakamura Make-up: Ayana Awata Talent: Alva Claire at Wilhelmina, Parker Kit Hill at Kev Mgmt, Varsha Thapa at APM New York, Kyra Cherie and West Dakota Photographer’s assistants: Juliet Sabella and Carli Adams Stylist’s assistants: Sandrine Francois, Jackiline Arredondo and Madison Headlee SPEcial thanks to Pier 59 Studios 18


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By The Seaside

Bikinis aren’t the only beachwear for this summer. Sky-high boots and turtlenecks are all welcome players in the sand. Photography by Mélanie Bordas Styling by Mari David this page from left: top and skirt by Sonia Rykiel; dress by Sonia Rykiel, two-piece by Dos Gardenias dress by Acne, earrings & ring by Lorette Colé Dupra, Green thigh high boots by Rosebalet; Debby liquid check dress by Acne, earrings by Lorette Colé Dupra, camel thigh high boots by Rosebalet OPPOSITE PAGE from left: trousers with belt by Véronique Leroy, top by Falke, earrings by D’Heygere; jacket by Véronique Leroy, turtleneck by Tibi, trousers by Sportmax

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opposite page: Sunglasses by Guy Laroche this page clockwise from left: top and trousers by Pleats Please Issey Miyake, sunglasses by Versace Eyewear, rings by Camille Enrico pull-over and skirt by Tibi; Vichy jersey midi dress by Altuzarra Knit top and skirt by Kenzo, belt by D’Heygere, earings by Lorette Colé Dupra Belt dress by Tibi, silver necklace by D’Heygere; sleeveless top by Tibi, scarf by Amédée 1851, buckle on scarf by Lorette Colé Dupra

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this page clockwise from left: top by Falke, trousers by Bunello Cucinelli, sunglasses by Acne, bag by Bao Bao Issey Miyake; TOP by Falke, trousers by Sportmax, bag by Bao Bao Issey Miyake, belt by Tibi, sunglasses by Acne top by Kristina Fidelskaya, cotton and silk skirt by Maticevski, necklace by Lorette Colé Duprat; dress by Litkovskaya, necklace by Lorette Colé Dupra top and skirt by Sonia Rykiel; dress by Sonia Rykiel, swimsuit by Dos Gardenias dress by Acne, bag worn as a belt by Lorette Colé Dupra, sunglasses by Sportmax; bra by Véronique Leroy, bodysuit by Tibi, peach skirt by Acne, sunglasses by Sportmax opposite page: head-to-toe Lacoste

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Hair & Make-up: Whitney Krill Models : Laetitia De Montalembert at Viva and Lotka Lakwijk at Silent Fashion Crew: Justine Mothe (Biarritz) and Daisy Oldfield (Paris) Big thanks to: Clarisse & Emilie


Modern Maverick

As the borders become blurry in the era of globalization, so too do the walls that divide high street from streetwear. East meets west where couture meets old school kicks. Photography by Nick Thompson Art direction and Styling by Fernando Torres this page: Shirt by Palmer/Harding, Jacket by Pronounce OPPOSITE PAGE: Blazer by Maison Kitsune Paris, Track suit by Adidas, Trousers by 032c, Sunglasses by Oakley

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this page, clockwise from left: Hoodie by 032c, kaftan by Hope, denim trouser by Levi’s Jacket by Tourne de transmission, Shirt by Underage, Trousers by Pop trading company Coat by Underage, Trousers by Adidas, Top Models own, Sneakers by Asics Vest by Tourne de transmission, Blazer by J.Lindeberg, Pants by Tourne de transmission, Belt bag by Wood Wood Opposite page: vest and Coat by 032c, Track suit- by Hi Tec, Sneakers by Asics Hair: James Oxley Make-Up: Louisa Copperwaite using Make up Forever Production Assistant: Alexandra Oley Stylist’s Assistant: Kasia Leczyka Model: Farhad at Supa Model Management

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Two minds one Heart Words by Tor bergman Photography by Johan Nilsson Styling by Natalie Olenheim

Färg & Blanche share the same ideas on how to approach design, but through different methods. With a limited edition of a heart lamp for MINI Electric, they continue to question what an object should be and look like. In collaboration with Nordiska Galleriet, the internationally renowned design duo once again combine craft and industry, heart and mind. Special thanks to MINI and Nordiska Galleriet

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Creative use of space, that has been the motto for MINI since the midst of 1959 post-war austerity amid the fuel shortage. MINI broke the rules of car engineering as we knew it by eliminating all things superfluous with their radical car design. When The Forumist was asked to express the same ideal in the sense of how we live our lives, we turned to Nordiska Galleriet for advice. Who did they think MINI should connect with from another world of design that could make this idiom on future living even stronger. How could different expressions come together and flourish as one. When Färg & Blanche get an assignment they know exactly what they’re looking for, but often the path to get there is very different. A couple both in work and life, Fredrik Färg and Emma Marga Blanche are educated in two contrasting traditions. Emma grew up in France, where theoretical and philosophical artistic training took precedent early on. Up here in Scandinavia, we tend to get a more practical schooling. Could these different cultures make for a compelling match? ”We’re always interested in showing the craftsmanship, almost getting a tailored feel, even though our products are industrially and practically produced. Making a visible connection between craft and industry,” says Fredrik Färg. Their new collaboration with MINI: A limited edition of the Heart Lamp, is a great example of that vision as heart and mind combine for a holistic solution. In short, you could describe it as mouth-blown glass in a brass basket. A lamp that is rechargeable and pillowy – a little like MINI.

This page clockwise from left: Trousers and shirt by J.Lindeberg, jacket by Hope dress and shirtdress, by J. Lindeberg, jacket by Hope


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this page:dress and shirtdress, by J. Lindeberg, jacket by Hope, earrings by Jane and Sophie JewelrY OPPOSITE PAGE: trousers and shirt by J. Lindeberg, jacket by Hope, shoes are Fredrik’s own

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But it’s also a living form, in various sizes, due to an interesting family history. “Recently we did an exhibition that we called “The Bakers’ House” in Emma’s families’ old house in Stockholm, where they used to run a very large crispbread factory in the 19th century. The heart lamp came from that experience and seemed to connect with spirits from Emma’s family history. The heart lamp is truly a pulsating spiritual little thing. A living form. Free, ” Färg elaborates. Now they have developed ”the heart lamp” even further with MINI. It’s been more than 10 years since the couple first met after exhibiting at Greenhouse, Stockholm Furniture Fair. Soon after they were both invited to an exhibit in Berlin and decided to travel together, which ultimately started their relationship. In 2011 the couple curated an exhibition at Biologiska Museet featuring 20 international designers and with that successful affair a partnership ensued. “Fashion is something we both take great interest in – in some ways more than design. Things move much faster in that world than in ours. It is somehow less conservative”, Färg explains. When we meet they just took part in an exhibit at A/D/O in Brooklyn – a creative space and an innovation practice at MINI that represents the company’s core belief that designers hold the keys to progress. ”MINI is one of the few brands in the car industry that does the same things as us. From a design aspect, our lamp and MINI seem to talk to each other. Similar shapes, a similar oneness.” Färg & Blanche are driven by interesting collaborations and this one with MINI and Nordiska Galleriet suits them perfectly. It is here, in this prestigious classic boutique Nordiska Galleriet, that a limited edition series of the ”heart lamp” for MINI Electric will be exposed in a specially designed installation by the artists themselves. “Few dare to do interesting stuff but both MINI and Nordiska Galleriet are great examples of the opposite”, says Färg. For over 100 years Nordiska Galleriet has been a destination for modern design. It is in many ways a Swedish institution, but one who wants to challenge what design is suppose to be. A philosophy that they share with Färg & Blanche. Rickard Liljeros, at Nordiska Galleriet, explains: “We’ve had our eyes set on Färg & Blanche for quite some time now. They are a Swedish design duo that really has made a name for themselves internationally, and that is something that is important for us: to collaborate with Swedish designers who have a global audience. We want to challenge how a place like ours should behave, and they challenge what a well-known object should be. Like in this case: what is a lamp? Where does it fit? We live on a planet where different worlds need to inspire each other. Collaboration as a natural part of our everyday life. Something resulting in true innovation. For a car manufacturer and an artist to work together on a project for creative living would have seemed rather unusual just a few year ago. Today, it is just another example on how we grow stronger together. Creating oneness.

This page clockwise from left and opposite page: Shirt by J. Lindeberg, checked jacket by Hope Sthlm; dress and shirtdress by J. Lindeberg, jacket by Hope

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Ros

Go Your Own Way Unapologetic and authentically individual rising stars Fricky and Ros explore their inner fashionistas with the limited edition hip hop inspired Polo Sport collection.

“There are so many talented artists around at the moment. I’d like to consider myself as one of them,” says Rebecca Ejdemo, the emerging R&B talent who has been creating quite a buzz under her alias Ros. “To stand out you’ve got to be yourself. It takes courage to be unique and believe in yourself. No one can do it for you. I’m not a great singer; hence autotune. But I make my own thing out of it. There are a lot of people who are great singers but just aren’t true to themselves.” She’s a self-proclaimed “sassy girl who takes the same freedom as men have always done.” Expensive clothes, money, sex and alcohol are some themes that reoccur in her lyrics. “The stuff our dreams are made of,” she adds. “I often refer to some sort of dream state. I’ve always chosen to go my own way; experimented with anything I’ve wanted to. If I fuck it up, I fuck it up. If it flies, well, good on you. Maybe you realise that it’s not as you imagined it to be. Better try and fail than to regret it afterwards.” For Rebecca, it’s not just about the music but also the artistry. “I love clothes just as much as I love music. I’ve found my style and always go most hard-core on stage. I like to find clothes that no one else is wearing, by going to vintage and second hand stores rather than consuming brands.” She mentions the album Kärlekslåtar by Lorentz as one of her greatest inspirations: “The first time I heard it, I felt the urge to make music of my own. “I’ve always wanted to make a specific style of music,” she continues. “But also, I like contrasts and have always been open when it comes to beats, writing and composing melodies. Quite a few songs have come together rather spontaneously while freestyling. Sometimes it’s difficult to find a context, a red thread that runs through your songs instead of relying on rhymes made in haste. That’s been the most challenging thing for me so far, but I improve with each passing day. I’ve been lucky enough to collaborate with people who share my vision, so I’ve never had to compromise.” “Music broadens worldviews and allows people to see things from a different perspective,” she concludes.

Words by Jonatan Södergren Photography by John Scarisbrick Styling by Allyson Shiffman Special thanks to Ralph Lauren in collaboration with Caliroots For the world to come together as one, we need artists that are both bold and unique; the untamed spirits who never compromise and dare to break barriers to forge their own path. In the trying times of today, with both naturally and socially grounded catastrophes looming, we need the freedom promised by music more than ever. Music has the power to alter the course of varying world views and inspire actions that provide people with the miraculous power to imagine a better future. Take hip hop for example. Born in the basements of the Bronx in the 1970s, hip hop is perhaps the genre of music with the most complex origins. With its roots deeply entangled in the culturally heated and racially charged beats of jazz to the explicit lyrics of the 90s, rappers have been unifying marginalised populations for decades. As much as hip hop is known for its lyrical genius, there’s no doubt about the magnetising effect of music on the allure of fashion. By its very nature hip hop is flashy. From baggy jeans to baseball caps, thick denim trousers to crunk kicks, hip hop brought more to the table than just fast beats and sick rhymes. It revolutionised how people dressed and fundamentally altered the course of cool. While now rather mainstream, hip hop represents the coming together of a people on the brink of society. It connected coasts to coasts and countries to continents through more than just music. From the Bronx to Umeå, hip hop has evolved on a continuing journey of new sounds and styles that takes the music to a different dimension. The paradox herein lies that uniqueness of individuals brings people together through imagination. This triumph is a powerful weapon that ought to be utilised against impending threats of social injustice. To illustrate this we have chosen two artists with different backgrounds and takes on music to illustrate how various Oneness can be.

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THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SPORT FZ VEST AND RELAXED FIT OG TROUSERS BY POLO SPORT RALPH LAUREN LIMITED EDITION CUSTOM FIT COTTON MESH POLO BY POLO RALPH LAUREN TRUCKER JACKET, DENIM TROUSERS AND POLO DENIM SPORT CAP BY POLO SPORT RALPH LAUREN LIMITED EDITION, T-SHIRT BY POLO RALPH LAUREN OPPOSITE PAGE: TRUCKER JACKET AND DENIM TROUSERS BY POLO SPORT RALPH LAUREN LIMITED EDITION, T-SHIRT BY POLO RALPH LAUREN


Fricky The name Erik Friman might not ring a bell. But 20 million streams on Spotify of hit-single ‘Aqua Aura’ makes Fricky a household name on the Swedish music scene. The 90’s-born rapper from the North has recently exploded to fame. However, the rising star has an ambiguous relationship to the industry that has embraced him. “On the one hand, I love the appreciation of non-formal education, which I’ve grown up with in Umeå,” he tells us. “On the other hand, it’s the whole industry side of things… everyone is trying so hard to appear professional when all they really do is copy America to such an extent that everything becomes mainstream. So I don’t think you should really care about the Swedish music industry. Last time I checked music was still about emotions. Don’t have a strategy; just be yourself. ” He describes himself as a mix between delinquent youth and family-man hiking in Yosemite sometime around 1994-1998. It’s actually not that hard envisioning him there with his Camcorder, recording sunsets while listening to disco and hip-hop. It’s no surprise that he’s a fan of camping and outdoor living. When asked what he thinks will capture the Zeitgeist of this summer; “It’s the Swedish equivalent to cowboys.” “I feel weird in most contexts,” he continues. “But under the Fricky moniker it’s like I get this outlet for all my eccentric sides. I put all my ideas and aesthetic expressions into the Fricky box and then see what becomes of it. Some people think that I’m ‘fake’, that I’m a character; but I think Fricky is more real than I am. Anything outside of what what I’ve done would’ve meant holding back my thoughts, aesthetic visions and ideas.” Reoccuring themes in his music include climate, nature, love, manliness, self-esteem, family, and money. “Anything that crosses my mind really,” he says. “Mostly, I try to capture a feeling and then words arrive. I often imagine worlds where things are

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upside-down, for better or worse. Fricktown and Mästerort are both imagined places that only exist in my mind So what has turned him into the imaginative lyricist he is today? “All those crappy action and comedy movies from the 90s,” he says half-jokingly. “But lately, what has shaped me the most are my experiences with nature. When I’m on my own yet surrounded by so much life. As human beings, we process our impressions. We sort them in our dreams and carve expressions out of them. I don’t think there’s anything in particular that has made me who I am; it’s the collective effect of it all.” Erik always knew his calling was music. “I had some sort of vision that I wanted to be an actor or musician like Elvis. I’ve never really considered it but now that I think of it, I’ve almost known to a certain extent which path I’ve wanted to take.” And it’s been a good ride thus far, “I’ve met all my best friends at festivals and concerts. That would never have happened if we didn’t have the same impression of the art that took shape before our eyes. In another context, we might not have fit together so well. Art is at its most beautiful when it unites people who otherwise wouldn’t have been united.” THIS PAGE: SPORT JACKET, RELAXED FIT OG PULL UP TROUSERS, 5 PANEL LONG BILL HAT BY POLO SPORT RALPH LAUREN LIMITED EDITION, CONTINENTAL 80 BY ADIDAS ORIGINALS SPORT FZ JACKET AND RELAXED FIT OG PULL UP TROUSERS BY POLO SPORT RALPH LAUREN LIMITED EDITION OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SPORT FZ VEST, RELAXED FIT OG PULL UP TROUSERS AND 5-PANEL CAP BY POLO SPORT RALPH LAUREN LIMITED EDITION HAIR AND MAKE-UP: CATHERINE LEHTONEN AT LÉON AGENCY STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: FELICIA GRANATH SHOT AT STUDIO LILLA PARIS


The Venice Biennale and its digital worlds In the age of fake news, how can technology and art merge to create the ultimate experience of oneness? The answer may lie in the immersive technology of the post-internet era. Words by Jonas Kleerup

combination of lucid dreaming and automatic writing”. It explores a personal world which we all have in common (the dream) but rarely share. The dream is even more free than the internet and in Dream Journal we together experience a digital interpretation of this. With its computer game aesthetics it feels very direct, almost logical. Rafman has been named the godfather of post-internet and Dream Journal is a masterpiece not to be missed. Earlier in the day I had a different kind of digital experience. This time on my own, within my own world, but in the company of Marina Abramović. It was just the two of us, lots of water and then a collapsing raft. Her latest project is a Virtual Reality piece produced together with Acute Art, which is the leading VR producer of contemporary art. Rising [2018] is shown at Palazzo Ca’ Rezzonico with art and culture organisation Phi, and is an impressive experience. But you don’t have to go all the way to Venice to try to save Abramović from drowning. Through the companies app, her and several other VR artists work can be viewed (don’t miss Djurberg Berg’s creepy tale). However, of all the digital realms I’ve experienced, Rafmans 2D dream is what I long to go back to. The 58th edition of the Venice Biennale goes on until the 24th of November

On the second day of the opening of the 58th Biennale di Venezia, I rush past the entire exhibition in the main space with one specific art piece in mind. I wandered through the exhibition in the Arsenale, the former navy yard of Venice, to see Alex Da Corte’s Rubber Pencil Devil, alongside some new sculptures by Nicole Eisenman and a new Arthur Jafa video, not to mention some old favourites such as Christian Marclay, Hito Steyerl, Dahn Vo, Henry Taylor, George Condo. But the Biennale is also the place where you discover new artists. For example, the strong portrait photography in b/w by self-proclaimed South African “visual activist” Zanele Muholi, the spiritual and political paintings of Michael Armitage from Kenya, and the Instagram-sensation of artistic duo Sun Yuan and Peng Yu’s creepy AI-machines all caught my attention for the first time as I moved through the former Venetian shipyards. The title for this years edition of the Biennale “May You Live In Interesting Times” was originally believed to be an old Chinese curse used in the 1930’s by a British politician. This turned out to be a rather unfortunate misinterpretation. But I imagine this is somehow what the curator Ralph Rugoff is after - to display our world of misinterpreted sayings and fake news in a strange post-digital (and interesting, to say the least) period. For this edition of the Biennale, the American curator, who has been the director of the

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Hayward Gallery in London since 2006, has invited 79 global artists with almost half coming in under 40. With the large scale exhibition he wants to show “how art works in an era of lies”. When I reach my destination inside the Arsenale, I part the curtains and a very different world awaits me. The massive screen in the dark room is covered with a patterned carpet and sculptural lounge chairs are spread throughout the room, an easy place to immerse myself into the world that is Dream Journal by Jon Rafman. A surreal, animated fantasy world with strange hybrids of humans, animals and monsters. Or sometimes, just body parts. The main character, a young girl with a cap that reads “Xanax”, evolves during the story to a body built hero in her quest to find her companion - a sort of a seal animal hybrid with the head of a boy (!?). That’s kind of the plot. The one hour and 45 minute long journey takes the viewer through a paradox of landscapes, from cityscape and deserts, heaven and hell, nightclubs and schools, and is accompanied by a cyber-punk digital soundtrack. I first stumbled upon Jon Rafman’s work in London when he showed at the Zabludowicz Collection a few years back. I’ve been a fan ever since I was floating in a pool filled with plastic balls to watch one of his surreal videos. The catalogue for the Biennale mentions that this fantasy world was conceived by the artist “through a

Clockwise from left: ALL IMAGES OF MARINA Abramović Courtesy of Acute Art; stills from behind the scenes of Rising (2018) jon rafman images courtesy of 58th International Art Exhibition - La Biennale di Venezia, May You Live In Interesting Times, jon rafman, dream journal, (2019) courtesy of the artist


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Fully Stacked

Layers over everything. Because too much of a good thing is never enough. Photography by Estelle Rancurelle Styling by Laure Orset-Prelet this page:Jacket by Stella McCartney, t-shirt and pink jeans by Monky, jeans by Calvin Klein Jeans, shirt by Uniqlo OPPOSITE PAGE: shirt by Lemaire, shirt by Margaret Howell

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opposite page: Jacket, shirt and trousers by Louis Vuitton this page clockwise from left: Turtleneck, t-shirt and trousers by Acne Studio Turtleneck by Calvin Klein, t-shirt and trousers by Paul Smith jacket, shirt and jeans by Calvin Klein Jeans, Jeans by Levi’s

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this page: sunglasses by Marc Jacobs, body by Litkovskaya opposite page: Coat by Dawei, white shirt with feathers by Sportmax, pink shirt and earrings by Forte Forte, turtleneck by Petit Bateau, shorts by Victoria/Tomas, cap by Arthur Avellano, key ring by Pascal Humbert, trainers by Pierre Hardy Hair: Sayaka Otama Make-up: Mayu Yamaji Model: Maisie Dunlop at Oui Fashion assistant: Daisy Oldfield Special thanks to: Alan and Andrea at Studio Kogan, Paris

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opposite page: Jacket by Stella McCartney this page: Sweater and trousers by Ambush Make-up: CÊline Exbrayat Stylist’s assistant: Justine Bleicher Models: Malo at M Management, Lancelot at Elite and Marie at MP Paris Layout design: Mathieu Selvatici Retouching: Feel Good Creative

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The Future of Fashion A new generation of sustainable designers is changing the fashion game. We speak to two innovators about their eco-conscious designs. Words by Veronika Dorosheva Everything is interconnected. Believe us, it’s proven science. Human beings are part of a larger ecosystem that includes everything around us from plants and animals, water and soil alike. And it seems the fashion world is finally waking up to this reality. The voices of activism are getting louder even within the fashion industry, known for its destructive environmental impact on water pollution, the use of toxic chemicals in the textile dyeing and the exorbitant high level of textile waste. The eco-warriors of the fashion world are steering the sails towards a circular model of textile production, which is based on extending the life cycle of garments and recycling materials into new items, thereby forming a generation of fashion designers reinventing design within a sustainable framework. Some of the designers of that new generation of change-makers presented their work at this years 34th edition of Hyères festival. The Forumist pulled Christoph Rumpf and Sara Emilie Terp Hansen over for a chat on their ongoing work. Christoph Rumpf aka @theglasspunk snatched the Grand Prix of the fashion jury and the Exception

Donation Prize for his collection mostly created from dead stock, upcycled materials and revamped flea market pieces. Among his collection, a Persian carpet found a second life as a reworked suit and a chandelier dangles elegantly as a repurposed necklace. His collection is full of voluminous shapes and lush fabrics, no doubt inspired by his flea market jaunts in Vienna, where Christoph is studying at the University of Applied Arts. When we asked about how important sustainability is in his design approach, Christoph retorted: “It is something every designer should be conscious of. I am trying to keep my environmental footprint as low as possible and as a student, upcycling seemed to be the most logical thing to do. I want to expand the idea of being sustainable in the future by using organic fabrics and producing locally.” As our conversation touches on the hot topic of sustainability within the fashion industry, Christoph answers sound realistic yet positive. “Brands definitely take more care than they did 10 years ago. Some use sustainability as a marketing tool and some prefer not to talk about it. I think both ways are ok as long as there is progress in working sustainably. Conscious design and consumption might even become the norm in high fashion. I doubt that big retailers will jump on the idea of producing sustainably, but we can always hope.” What could designers do in order to make the fashion industry more sustainable? Christoph says: “The most important thing is not to overproduce. Therefore, the consumers also have to buy less. People have to see their garments as something precious.

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Ask if there is a sustainable option to certain fabrics/ techniques etc., try to produce fair and clean, think about packaging, think about reusing rather than producing - less is more.” Christoph will present the extended version of his collection in Berlin this July, and we can’t wait to see it. We met Sara Emilie Terp Hansen @casc8, the founder of the bag brand Casc8, at the festival’s “Formers Showroom”, a display for previous showrunners. The Central St. Martins graduate is the creative genius of the brand that crafts handbags out of plastic waste. By working together with artisans in India, who were fed up with plastic waste destroying their surroundings, Sara explores the design possibilities of plastic and engages with the local community of weavers in Gujarat. The artisans wash, strip and finally weave the plastic by hand, creating modern and sleek designs, a functional mindset that she attributes to her Danish roots. In using her brand she wants to tell an urgent story to consumers about the current excess of consumption. And what better way than to juxtapose traditional craft methods of artisans with the excess production waste of modern society. She hopes to expand the project in India and to establish connections to different parts of the world. When asked about the future of sustainability, Sara remains hopeful: “I think the ways of producing will improve. There will be more restrictions and laws on how you produce and there will be better alternatives to how the industry is functioning at the moment. It’s a collective effort of industry and consumers working together to eradicate waste and to come up with intelligent ways of manufacturing.”

Sara believes that fashion industry can function and deal creatively with certain restrictions. “...If you can’t just pick from whatever material you would want to work with, you must try new things and come out of the box. This is how we designers push things forward.” With the ingenious and environmentally conscious minds of designers like Rumpf and Hansen, we may finally find an equilibrium of oneness with fashion and the environment. This page clockwise FRom elft: Official catwalk images by © Etienne, 2019: CEntre: Photograph by © Casc8 Top Right: Official catwalk image by © Etienne, 2019: Bottom Right and Centre: Photograph by © Casc8


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The Kids Are Alright

To all the dreamers, lovers and late nighters: immerse yourself in the ephemeral glow of youth eternal. Photography by Wanderlust

Styling by Rebecca Muzzioli

this page clockwise from top and opposite page: jacket by Weer, shirt by Essentiel Antwerp, trousers by No.21, shoes by Cerruti 1881; jacket by Drome, trousers by Christophe Terzian, belt by Harpo; shoes Stylist’s own; coat by Momoni; trousers by Essentiel Antwerp, shoes by Sarenza, scarf Stylist’s own, jacket by Issey Miyake Homme Plisse; turtleneck by Falke, coat by Wendy Jim, trousers by Christophe Terzian, shoes by No.21 jacket by Christophe Terzian top by Ash

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OPPOSITE PAGe clockwise from left: jacket by Moohong, trousers by Weer, shoes by Cerruti 1881; coat by Léo, shirt by Essentiel Antwerp, trousers by Christophe Terzian, rings by Harpo; jacket by Arthur Avellano; belt and rings by Harpo; trousers and shoes by No.21; top by Louis Gabriel Nouchi, trousers by Christophe Terzian, belt by Harpo, shoes by Sarenza This page clokwise from left: jacket by Christophe Terzian, trousers by Ash; jacket by Koché, trousers by Drome; coat and shirt by Moohong, trousers by Cerruti 1881; coat by No.21, shirt by Cerruti 1881, trousers by Acne Studios jacket by Momoni, turtleneck by Uniqlo jumper by Essentiel Antwerp, turtleneck by Falke Hair: Sayaka Otama Make-up: YOYO Stylist’s Assistant: Ferdinand Paimblanc Models: Jacques at The Face, Matthias and Maryan at M Management Paris and Goya at New Madison

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SUSTAINORDIC

The Nordic Report Your guide to a sustainable world

By the power of five, acting as one. How the Nordic countries are setting a global example and leading the sustainable fashion movement with innovation through collaboration. Words by Jonas Olsson At the forefront of sustainable development lie the Nordic countries. The SUSTAINORDIC network gathers authorities from all five Nordic countries in the fields of architecture and design to act as one entity showing the world alternative behaviours in sustainable consumption and production. The outcome is an annual issue of The Nordic Report. By highlighting good examples of innovation, collaboratively collecting and promoting best practice examples of design, architecture and city planning the Nordic countries confirm their position as the avant-garde in sustainability. One of the core values of the network is to encourage positive change by highlighting what is good practice within sustainable production and consumption, and inspiring others to follow. Read more at sustainordic.com The network’s collaborative nature highlights the importance of working across creative sectors and geographical borders in the field of sustainable development in order to unite as one collective, louder voice.

Re:newcell Re:newcell was founded as a family business in 2012 by researchers associated with the KTH Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm. They took on one of the largest problems in the textile industry– how to close the loop on fashion? Less than one per cent of all clothing is upcycled. The target group are global fashion brands with a genuine desire to find circular solutions to reducing their footprints. In order to achieve real change, the solutions must be scalable and enable a systematic shift. Virgin raw materials from forests and cotton can be replaced with 100 per cent raw materials in the production of fibres without quality loss.

SUSTAINORDIC is a collaborative network between six Nordic design and architecture institutions. The project owners are the Swedish Centre for Architecture and Design - ArkDes (SE) and Form/Design Center (SE), the co-partners are DOGA (NO), DAC (DK), Design Forum Finland (FI) and Iceland Design Centre (IS). The project was founded in 2015 with the support of the Nordic Council of Ministers.

Clockwise From left: photograph courtesy of repack; Centre: Trash Design;, photograph Henrik Enbom; bottom centre courtesy of paptic; top right courtesy of cheap monday; bottom right courtesy of effekt

Re:textile Re:textile is a research project within the field of Smart Textiles Borås with the aim to change consumer culture through creating a basis for policy work that promotes circularity and the implementation of pilot projects. By means of designing garments from the initial stage on the basis that they should be able to be stored, reworked and updated, new business areas are created within repair, re-design and other services that prolong the longevity of clothes. The collaboration with Cheap Monday is a successful example of using discarded clothing from Berendsen that have been re-designed and successfully sold in stores. Design will be the key factor, based both on how sustainable product ranges are attractive to the consumer and how the value chain will be optimised to support circular flows. 54

EFFEKT

Paptic

In 2007, architects Sinus and Tue Foged established the planning and architectural drawing office EFFEKT. It originated from a multidisciplinary think–tank, which the two founders owned together with philosopher Kristoffer Weiss. The aim is to design cities and buildings that address some of the issues the international community faces, and identify unexplored potential in architecture and design which, based on system thinking and alternative social dynamics, constitute the basis of new green business models. EFFEKT works primarily with planning, building and landscape architecture, focusing on reducing individual footprints by converting our resource consumption through the decentralisation of energy and food production. The proximity and visualisation of production and consumption contribute to behavioural change, which in turn reduces food waste in particular. These themes are combined in the research and design processes of ReGen villages; a visionary model for integrated and flexible eco-societies. EFFEKT has drawn up a long strategic turn-key plan for the conversion of vulnerable non-residential housing areas such as Gellerup, Rosenhøj, Tingbjerg, Kildeparken and Værebroparken. EFFEKT established a higher level of safety, a decrease in crime, a stop of emigration in Rosenhøj, the first fully realised residential area.

Paptic produces a new packaging material which replaces environmentally harmful packaging like plastics, paper, and textiles with a soft and moistureresistant material manufactured from wood fibre. It’s particularly suitable for applications where plastic film has previously been the only option, such as plastic bags, mail envelopes and cosmetic bags. Paptic was founded in 2015 as a spin-off of the VTT Technology Research Centre of Finland by Tuomas Mustonen, Esa Torniainen, and Karita Kinnunen-Raudaskoski. Paptic material can be produced through traditional papermaking machines. The refinement of the material can be managed with plastic, paper and textile processing machines, which means that no new infrastructure is required. The primary mission of the company is to solve the issue of plastic pollution in the oceans, which sees millions of tonnes of plastic discarded in the oceans annually. Sourced by The Nordic Report 01, compiled by the SUSTAINORDIC network in 2016.


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Oneness issue #18  

Summer breeze gently grazing bare skins. Open flesh awakening hibernating joy and freedom. All over again we expose ourselves to the annual...

Oneness issue #18  

Summer breeze gently grazing bare skins. Open flesh awakening hibernating joy and freedom. All over again we expose ourselves to the annual...

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