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Susan Irvine, Journalist and Author, nominates ‘Iris Gris’ by Jacques Fath Reason: “It has not been available for decades but someone with access to the exact formula illicitly made me a bottle. Dense, melancholic, creamy but pure; it’s not bizarre, it’s just unique. I want someone to bring it back, but not debased as most come-back scents are.” [Fig. 10] Peter Jensen, Fashion Designer, nominates Chanel No.5, Chanel No.18, Chanel No.19 and Chanel No.22 Reason: “I only wear Chanel’s fragrances for women. When I wear ‘Chanel No.22’ I apply it seven times: three times on the neck and four times on the front; then I spray ‘Chanel No.5’ on top three times: once behind each ear and once in the hair. With ‘Chanel No.18’ I do the same but mixed with Chanel ‘No.19’. I think that Chanel makes the best fragrances and has the best history behind each of its scents.” [Fig. 1] Penny Martin, Editor in Chief of SHOWstudio, nominates ‘Bois et Musc’ by Serge Lutens and Escentric Molecules Reason: “Sometimes I wear ‘Bois et Musc’ by Serge Lutens and others Escentric Molecules. But the smell I love above all can be found in my husband’s hairline (unwashed), above his left temple.” [Fig. 3 & 5] Patrick Scallon, Press Representative for Dries Van Noten “I love smells and tend to use many on a regular basis depending on my mood and the situation. I tend to have favourites for summer and winter. The scents I wear in summer are ‘S3’ by Legrain and ‘4711’ by Mäurer & Wirtz. Those I use in the winter include ‘Marescialla’ by Santa Maria Novella, ‘Poivre’ by Caron, pure patchouli oil by Santa Maria Novella and ‘Coal’, a synthesised isolated molecule of the odour of freshly mined coal developed by the scent artist, Sissel Tolaas. I suppose my absolute favourites are the ones I wear all year round; these include ‘Lavanda Imperiale’ and ‘Acetico Cosmetico’ by Santa Maria Novella, ‘Aqua Brava’ by Puig and ‘Green Irish Tweed’ by Creed.” [Fig. 2, 4 & 6] Susie Rushton, Journalist, nominates ‘Borneo 1834’ by Serge Lutens Reason: “It’s a dusty, dark brown smell (chocolate and tobacco), and is served from a stoppered glass bottle which means I usually overdose. I’m greedy and own and wear dozens of different perfumes but this one is special, partly because the experience of acquiring it. I got it in Serge Lutens’ amazing shop in Paris and it was very expensive. Sometimes I think it brings me luck.” [Fig. 11] Chandler Burr, Author and perfume critic at The New York Times, nominates ‘Ambre Narguile’ by Hermès Reason: “It instantly improves the experience of any meal, rendering it more delicious, more deep, more vivid, like salting one’s food.” [Fig. 8] Val Garland, Make-up Artist, nominates ‘Opium’ by Yves Saint Laurent Reason: “It brings back memories of clubbing in the 1980s.” [Fig. 9] Jason Evans, Photographer, nominates ‘Ambre Sultan’ by Serge Lutens Reason: “Partly because Serge Lutens is such an extraordinary character, partly because I enjoy the subtlety of his work. This scent just happens to compliment the way I smell and contradict the way I dress.” [Fig. 5] Valery Demure, Jewellery Agent, nominates ‘Le Parfum de Therese’ by Frédéric Malle Reason: “I just love the notes of leather, pepper and cedar with the jasmine and violet scents. It is a lush and languid fragrance. I also love its name it sounds old-fashioned and demure. I have worn this perfume since I found it at Natan in Brussels a few years ago.” [Fig. 7] Peter Saville, Graphic Designer, nominates ‘Terre d’Hermès’ by Hermès Reason: “There is a fragrance that I wear but I don’t think it chic for people to share the details of their personal wardrobe. To do so is pointless. Whereas the cheaper, synthetic scents sit on the skin, arguably the proper ones respond differently to each individual. So to read that ‘Yves Saint Laurent wore blah blah’ and then buy it is futile because the actual smell will be different in the event. I recently tested ‘Terre d’Hermès ‘ by Hermès, however, and it had a very striking scent: of a female. So I bought some.” [Fig. 12]

ISSUE 1 — ­ 95

Issue 1: The Fashion Almanac  

A Graphic and Textual Exploration of the Fashion World

Issue 1: The Fashion Almanac  

A Graphic and Textual Exploration of the Fashion World

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