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The Essential Journal F A S H I O N
L I F E S T Y L E
C U L T U R E
The Eton Shirt: Our first look at the brands mastering one item of clothing
Up close and personal with the Range Rover Velar
Illustration is going underground with the Prize for Illustration 2017
Travel (E)(A)(T)(S) escapes the daily grind at Soho Farmhouse
TOM HARDY â€œI'm very suspicious of people who present themselves as noble and virtuous. I hate that kind of sanctimonious posturing. â€? Page 22
W W W. E S S E N T I A L J O U R N A L . C O . U K
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NEW NEWJAGUAR JAGUARF-TYPE F-TYPE
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Contemporary Grooming For Men
The new R1 Chrome & Stand Combining premium materials with award-winning design This Prestige Collection is also available in X1 Carbon & R1 Gold
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20 CINEMA WITH TOM WILLIAMS
The Essential Journal's Film Editor, Tom Williams takes a look at this months releases, dives a little deeper into Alien: Covenant and ponders how you make a successful sequel years on....
THE PRIMER Two pages full of essentials including a wildcard beer, a book to get you in the mood for the election, abstract viewing and your new favourite restaurant in Budapest
12 ONE THING DONE WELL #1:
38 THE OPEN: ROYAL BIRKDALE’S FINEST MOMENTS
As the clock ticks ever closer to the 146th Open, we take a look back through the history books at the moments that have captivated crowds on the Southport links
THE ETON SHIRT We take a look at the brands doing one item of clothing especially well, starting with the Eton shirt
13 ONE FROM THE PITCH AND
THREE FROM THE COURT From the sports field to your wardrobe, the sport-led fashion brands that became household names
14 GREAT BRITISH DESIGN
Hawes & Curtis Celebrate over 100 years of Great British Design in their Spring/Summer 2017 Campaign
16 MODERN MAN'S NEW STARS
OF BRITISH GROOMING The online retailer takes a look at the future of male grooming innovation
18 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL
WITH THE RANGE ROVER VELAR: The latest addition to the luxury SUV fleet
19 DMR & MERCEDES BENZ
David M Robinson exclusively showcase IWC’s new collection for 2017, including the brand's latest Da Vinci
25 THE MIDDLE EIGHT: DAVID M ROBINSON BASELWORLD 2017
The David M Robinson team bring you their expert guide to this year's best Baselworld 2017 releases
CONTRIBUTORS Alan Smithee Association of Illustrators Boo Paterson Jan Janssen John Thornton London Transport Museum Miles Kenny Martin Clarke Matt Farrell Michael Walton Neil Baxandall Nick Thomas Royal Institute of Architecture Tom Williams
22 COVER FEATURE:
As the popular Vietnames restaurant opens in Liverpool, we take a look at the familyrun business' authentic and super healthy street food
PUBLISHERS Singleton Publishing CREATIVE DIRECTOR Thomas Sumner EDITOR Davey Brett CONTENT ASSITANT Meghan Storey COVER IMAGE Tom Hardy
EDWARD THOMAS HARDY Fast emerging as one of Britain’s and Hollywood’s top stars, Tom Hardy speaks to the Essential Journal about days past, present and future
33 200 YEARS OF THE BIG SMOKE
Turmeaus Cigar & Whisky celebrates two centuries as one of the UK’s foremost suppliers of fine cigars & artisan tobacco
35 GENTS, WE NEED TO TALK
ABOUT: THE STAG DO Installment two of our new regular column, in which we use our pondering skills to delve deep into clichés, stereotypes and seemingly unimportant maleorientated issues
37 SPIRITS GUARANTEED TO
MAKE DAD SMILE The Whisky Exchange lend us their recommendations for what to gift Dad this Farther’s Day
40 ILLUSTRATION'S GOING
UNDERGROUND We speak with former London Transport Museum Poster Commissioner, Michael Walton about this years entrants for The Prize for Illustration
41 AT THE CUTTING EDGE
OF ILLUSTRATION We catch up with talented Scottish illustrator and impressive all-rounder Boo Paterson for a brief chinwag ahead of the release of her first book 'Papercut This Book'
As our pilgrimages to the record store become more and more frequent, digital conversion is lagging behind. However, with the the push of a single red button, Convert Technologies are bringing it back up to scratch
44 LIVERPOOL(E): MOVER,
SHAKER, ARCHITECTURAL RISK TAKER A new exhibition coming to Liverpool’s RIBA North celebrates the ambition and history of the city’s architecture
46 TRAVEL (E)(A)(T)(S):
SOHO FARMHOUSE We try out the charming countryside member’s club perched on the Northern tip of the Cotswolds
49 4 STAR LUXURY ON THE
GOLF COAST The Open 2017 is coming to the Royal Birkdale, just a short distance from Formby Hall Golf Resort & Spa
Our expert food and drink contributor, Nick Thomas, heads to Texas to challenge the Deep South stereotypes: cowboys, oil and guns
55 TAILOR-MADE TREKS
BY ARACARI From once in a lifetime Amazon river cruises to private dining in the middle of breathtaking Bolivian salt flats
CONTACT For all advertising enquiries please contact: firstname.lastname@example.org For all other enquiries including guest editorial and feature opportunities please contact: email@example.com
TERMS & CONDITIONS Under no circumstances must any part of this publication be reproduced without prior permission to the publisher. Whilst every effort is taken, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any errors. Furthermore, the publisher shall not be held responsible for an advertising material/content. Please also note that the views and opinions written within this publication do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of the publisher. All prices and details stated within this publication are correct at the time of print, however these are subject to change and the publisher shall not be held responsible for these. Third party contributions own exclusive copyright to their own material that they have submitted as part of the publication. All rights reserved.
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PERFECTING THE ESSENTIALS A Day’s March is a Swedish menswear label founded in 2014. We offer clean-cut basics and wardrobe staples of the highest quality, at a friendly price. Our goal is to help you get through the day with style and dignity – whether it’s a hectic day at the office, at the beach with a gelato in your hand, or at your mother’s fifth wedding. Our name, A Day’s March, comes from an old military term referring to how far an army could move in one single day. We believe it’s a fitting name for a clothes company that helps you keep going through the triumphs and troubles of everyday life with your head held high.
THE MAJOR IMPORTANCE OF MINOR THINGS We’d rather make one exceptional shirt than three mediocre ones – our aim is to perfect the essentials. Every tee, shirt, and sweater you find at A Day’s March is the result of a never ending strive for excellence. We obsess about details and about refining and perfecting every piece. Many garments die along the way. Only a few make it. But for us, the process of refining never ends. We continually make small adjustments and improvements in our quest for perfection – our work is never done.
MADE TO LAST A Day’s March is concerned with style, not trends. We make garments that stand the test of time. The inspiration comes from classic American and Italian menswear, music and film, military apparel and sportswear. We’re less concerned with the fads of the day in the ever-accelerating world of fashion. We don’t try to second-guess what our customer wants. On the contrary, what we do is very personal – you’ll never find a piece of clothing at A Day’s March that we ourselves wouldn’t wear. In fact, many of the garments we produce are inspired by favorite vintage pieces from our own wardrobes – clothes that for different reasons have stayed with us through the years, never losing relevance.
F R I E N D LY P R I C I N G High quality, low price, what’s the catch? None. A Day’s March is an exclusive producer-to-consumer company. This means that we sell solely in our own stores and at adaysmarch.com. Since we skip wholesale, you skip the markup. This way we can offer high-quality clothes at a better price than you would normally pay.
SUSTAINABILIT Y BEYOND PRODUCTION We are continuously striving to produce our clothes in an ever more fair and environmentally friendly way. We work with trusted and licensed producers, mainly in Europe, and a substantial part of our products are made from organic cotton. But sustainability is not only about production. It’s also about what kind of garments you present to the world. We’re all about making clothes with long-lasting quality and design. The least eco-friendly shirt is the one you have to replace every other week. A Day’s March make clothes without expiration date.
From top left 1. Garment Dyed Oxford Shirt £ 60 2 Herringbone Twill Overshirt £ 105, Oxford Shirt £ 60 3. Relaxed Pant Chino £ 80, Oxford Shirt £ 60 4. Cotton Twill Bomber Jacket £ 130, Denim No. 1 £ 95 5. Denim Shirt £ 60, Slim Fit Chino £ 70 6. Milano Knit Bomber £ 105, Denim No. 1 £ 80 7. Garment Dyed Oxford Shirt £ 60, Organic Cotton Tee £ 25 8. Slim Pants £ 80, Herringbone Twill Overshirt £ 105
adaysmarch.com essentialjournal-ad.indd 1
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Coffee pleasure –
freshly ground, not capsuled.
Roger Federer Inspirational role model, world record holder of Grand Slam wins, greatest tennis player of all time – and coffee lover.
The perfect espresso thanks to P.E.P.®. The E8 from JURA wows even the most discerning coffee lovers like Roger Federer with its choice of coffees. The one-touch automatic coffee machine prepares twelve different specialities to professional barista standard. To create the perfect ristretto and espresso, it features a world first: the Pulse Extraction Process (P.E.P.®). A TFT display makes operation intuitive and convenient. All elements are easily accessible from the front, while the Intelligent Water System (I.W.S.®) detects the filter automatically. Price: £1100.00 JURA – If you love coffee. Available from JURA Store London ( 148 Marylebone Road ), Harrods Jura Concession, Selfridges, johnlewis.com, aol.com and uk.jura.com
The Primer WHAT WE'RE DRINKING:
WHAT WE'RE READING:
HONOURABLE FRIENDS? PARLIAMENT AND THE FIGHT FOR CHANGE CAROLINE LUCAS We’re not sure about you, but here at The Essential Journal we can’t wait for another bloody good box ticking down the polling station. Don’t worry, we’re not going to tell you who to vote for. Whether you’re a paid up member of the Monster Raving Looney Party or a self-confessed ‘floater’, all we’re going to say is sometimes it’s important to consider the system you’re voting your beloved representative into. How Westminster actually works is one of the topics Green Party co-leader Caroline Lucas delves into in ‘Honorable Friends?’, which charts the first five years of her parliamentary career representing Brighton Pavilion. Wise, measured and honest, the book is a must read for anyone interested in what actually happens on a daily basis in parliament and what your local MP is up against.
WHAT WE'RE EATING:
A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR “You’re never as good as they say you are and you’re never as bad as they say you are.” George Clooney
MAZEL TOV, BUDAPEST After a punishing regime of intensive stag do antics in Budapest, our editor (at this point broken, delirious, questioning his very existence and with a day to spare) stumbled upon a culinary gem in the city’s Jewish Quarter. Housed in a huge former abandoned brick building with open plan courtyard and prominent skylight running the length of the roof, the space is the perfect setting for the restaurant’s fresh and healthy Middle Eastern street food. His recommendation? The Jerusalem mix (chicken thigh, liver and hearts grilled with onion) and Shawarma (chicken thigh fillet with secret spices). To drink? Lots of water.
Wise words there from former EJ cover star gorgeous George, especially going into a general election. When it comes to politics, we like to keep our cards close to our chest, so in the run up to the general election we’ve tried to keep the Journal as light on politics as possible. Instead, we chatted to Tom Hardy, took a deep-dive into the stag do and even had time for a spot of sartorial judging at Chester Races. All of this as well as our trademark mix of lifestyle, culture and travel. A strong and stable issue, if we do say so ourselves.
STRANGERS COFFEE: SHAKISO, ETHIOPIAN NATURAL COFFEE Keep the skin on the cherry. That’s the secret behind the fruity notes of strawberry, blueberry, candied fruits, chocolate and orange finish of the natural coffee we’ve been drinking a lot of this month. Natural coffee (commonly known as ‘unwashed’) refers to the process of washing the coffee cherries, drying them in the sun and then once the drying process is complete, extracting the green seed (or bean) from the dried fermented cherry. Leaving the skin on for this allows the bean to absorb all of the sweet and bold flavour from the fruit, giving your morning brew a little more punch.
WHAT WE'RE WATCHING: Episode One
Christoph Niemann: Illustration
Tinker Hatfield: Footwear Design Episode Three
Es Devlin: Stage Design
THE TIM FERRISS PODCAST Tim Ferriss is one of those blokes. An allrounder. So successful that it makes us sick. An author, entrepreneur, public speaker and selfconfessed ‘human guinea pig’. He’s written bestselling self-help books, is somewhat of an investment expert and even holds a Guinness world record in Argentine tango. His podcast is also extremely good. Now onto its 240th episode the podcast covers a wide range of self improvement topics through interviews with leaders and champions of respective fields, ranging from design to weightlifting, wealth creation to science. Full of insight, advice and intriguing debate it’s no wonder Ferris has been coined ‘the Oprah of podcasting’.
ABSTRACT: THE ART OF DESIGN We are forever presented with finished ideas. The process is often clad in scaffold and tarpaulin, while the spark that ignited the original idea is left locked away within the mind of the creator. Abstract is a Netflix documentary series that attempts to methodically unbox that spark. Similar to the streaming service's Chef's Table series, Abstract swaps the kitchen for the studio, chronicling the thought processes and rebellious nature of graphic designers, architects, photographers and more in eight individual episodes. All eight episodes are incredible, but being especially partial to a spot of architecture, we couldn't help being blown away by architect Bjarke Ingels. The young Dane's futuristic low-cost designs don't look like they're something that should even exist yet and his personal climb up the rungs of the industry ladder is nothing short of astonishing. A must see.
Bjarke Ingels: Architecture
Ralph Gilles: Car Design
Paul Scher: Graphic Design
Ilse Crawford: Interior Design
CAMDEN TOWN BREWERY FLUE FAKER SMOKED LAGER Straight away we know what you’re thinking. Smoke in my bacon crisps, cigars and barbequed meats? Yes please. Smoke in my lager? You’ll have to persuade me. We were once like you, until we popped the cap on a bottle of Camden Town Brewery’s first single batch seasonal beer of the year. Camden’s own take on classic Bamburg Rauchbiers (smoky German beers using malted barley dried over an open flame) the Flue Faker is a tasty wildcard, that’s incredibly morish. Deliciously dry with a subtle and smoky finish, prepare to be caught off guard and immediately won over. The perfect beer for the upcoming barbecue season and the bottle isn’t half snazzy too.
WHAT WE'RE EXPERIENCING:
PATEK PHILIPPE PERPETUAL CALENDAR LAUNCH
Watches don't need screens to be smart. The Patek Philippe Calendar which launched this month, recognises the variable length of the months, including leap years, which means provided you keep the watch wound, you will not need to adjust the date at the end of any month. In order to achieve this, there is one component in every Perpetual Calendar which rotates once every 4 years. Of course there is often an exception to the rule, some century years not having a leap year, even though they are on the cycle of every fourth year. Therefore a Perpetual Calendar effectively works on the Julian calendar and will need adjusting by one day, once every hundred years or so, and this can be done by the owner with just one push of the date corrector. Pretty nifty. WHAT WE'RE WEARING:
THE DETAILS INTRODUCING:
TWELVESONS London-based Twelvesons are a new sneaker brand bringing forward-thinking and clean-cut designs to the world of footwear. Inspired by architecture and a passion for sneakers, the brand deals in contemporary designs catering for the fashion forward individual as well as those wishing to dress a little safer. Made by hand in a small family-owned factory in Venice, the brand has seen a dramatic rise since its inception only a year ago, joining forces with stockists across Europe including London’s Utter Couture and Liverpool’s Union 22. A self-confessed sneakerhead, founder Ola Alabi told us, “the rise of streetwear and sneaker culture is at an all time high and we feel like we’re in the game at a strong time when people are hyped for the culture and are willing to plug into what we’re doing.” Hurry whilst stocks last.
GIEVES & HAWKES The Saville Row tailor has recently launched it's much anticipated Spring/Summer 2017 collection. We were delighted to be able to take an
outfit, handpicked by the kind team at their Liverpool location, for a spin on our recent day out at Chester Race course. Taking cues from the English Season, which begins with the Chelsea Flower Show, the seasonal colour palette of saturated shades of pistachio, pomegranate, raspberry, duck egg blue and cornflower is set against masculine neutrals navy, grey and khaki.
WHERE WE'RE FREQUENTING
Undoubtedly, Christopher Nolan’s WWII epic Dunkirk starring our cover star Tom Hardy is going to be the most anticipated (and probably the best) film of the summer. The rumours and confirmed details alone are enough to make us severely excited. Interstellar cinematographer Hoyte Van Hoytema is back which means a visual feast, whilst Hans Zimmer on soundtrack duties means another phenomenal soundtrack. The film’s beach scenes were filmed at the original Dunkirk beach and it’s rumoured Warner Bros spent $5 million on an original WWII fighter plane for the film, attached an IMAX camera to it for aerial scenes and then crashed it. A former French navy warship is also reported to have been used, with Nolan keen to use as little computer-generated effects in the film as possible. The film will be the first time IMAX cameras have been used handheld and with reportedly minimal dialogue, Nolan is said to have studied silent films to build suspense and intensity in crowd scenes. Meanwhile, Nolan is reported to have cut a deal with Warner Bros to receive not only a salary of $20 million, but also 20% of the film’s box office growth. Everything about the film screams epic and we cannot wait. For Tom Hardy’s thoughts on the film, head to P.22.
It’s really no secret now that vinyl is back. December last year saw vinyl album sales eclipse digital album downloads for the first time ever, whilst a report released in January of this year predicts vinyl record sales this year will top $1bn (£820m) for the first time since the 1980s. Record Store Day, Urban Outfitters and even the rebirth of HMV have all contributed to the music format’s rise, but what is actually selling on vinyl? Good question. At the time of writing, the number one album in the Official Vinyl Album Chart Top 40 is Kasabian’s ‘For Crying Out Loud’, with new releases from Slow Dive, At The Drive In and Mac Demarco in the Top 10. Widen the scope to look at the first quarter of the year and the UK’s buying habits are far more vintage. The second biggest selling album of the first four months of the year, after Ed Sheeran’s ‘Divide’ is Amy Winehouse’s ‘Back to Black’ followed by David Bowie’s ‘Legacy’. The Pulp Fiction soundtrack is tenth and classics from the likes of The Rolling Stones, Bob Marley, Fleetwood Mac and The Beatles appear further down the list. Looking for the latest breakthrough in vinyl tech? Head to P.43.
WHERE WE'RE DINING:
CITY WINE BAR, liverpool One of Liverpool's best loved venues, City Wine Bar, has reopened its doors under new ownership. The young yet experienced trio behind popular Lark
Lane venue, Writer's Block have reinvigorated the business district's post-work hangout which now boasts a carefully crafted selection of fine wines, premium ales and cocktails. Quality gastropub lunches are also on the menu, with cheese and charcuterie in the evening.
You’re telling us you’re not aware of the ancient soap opera-esque shenanigans of the Greek Gods? Boo Patterson mentioned them in passing during our chat and it left us curious, so we spent an entire afternoon selflessly googling them all for you, the reader. The Olympians were a pretty rowdy bunch. The leading man, Zeus (God of the sky) was always getting caught going after other women and fathering illegitimate children, which didn’t go down well with his wife, Hera (Goddess of marriage, mothers and families). Of course, Greek Mythology is far too big to summarise here, but we did manage to pull out a few personal favourites. The Fates, the three Goddesses in charge of (you guessed it) fate and destiny. Clotho spins the thread of life, Lachesis decides the length of that thread and when your time is up, Atropos cuts it. Ares (God of war) was a bit of a maniac, Apollo (God of loads of things) was the all-round golden boy of the heavens and Dionysus (God of sex, wine and intoxication) was always drunk. To see what else inspires illustrating titan Boo Patterson, check out our interview on P.41
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ONE THING DONE WELL:
The Eton Shirt We take a look at the brands doing one item of clothing especially well, starting with the Eton shirt
n Eton shirt is not just any old shirt. An Eton shirt is made from 45 different parts and sewn with 12,000 stitches. An Eton shirt has 12 potential styles of collar, a wide variety of quality fabrics, endless patterns and colours all within 3 main collections for work, play and special occasions. Eton have considered every aspect of the shirt and made it their duty for nearly 90 years to make every detail of the shirt the best it can be. So when it comes to shirts, the Swedish brand is one of the best. Founded in 1928 by Swedish couple Annie and David Pettersson, the brand adopted the name ‘Eton’ in the 1950s after the success of their original ‘Eton shirt’, named after the small British town of private school fame. The founder’s sons took a liking to the town after passing through on an expedition in search of the world’s best fabrics which involved a stop off in the UK. From there the brand expanded, revolutionising not just the way shirts were produced, but the shirt itself and in 1992, Eton presented the world’s first crease resistant shirt in 100% cotton. Harrods were the first retailer to carry the line, selling 600 in the first week. Flagship stores have since opened across the world including New York, Stockholm and London and in 2016 Eton updated their profile with a new logo, new in-store interiors and a revamp of their collections upgrading their smart formal lines as well as a new casual collection. The reason we love Eton? The quality. In a perfect world, the work week would require a minimum of five shirts, maybe six at a push. The shirts would be smart, vary in colour and collar type, fit properly (according to measurements, rather than the meagre one-fits-all alphabet), be comfortable on the skin and above all, last. The latter being especially important. A shirt that lasts, keeps its shape through a busy day, keeps its composure through the wash and does this week in week out for an extended amount of time is something worth stocking up on. Now, we’re not going to delve into the finer science of weaves, fabric construction, finishing processes, weft and warp threads and the like, that’s for the experts over at Eton to explain, but we can confirm that it makes all of the difference. It’s the difference between arriving at a meeting at three in the afternoon looking like you’ve just ironed your shirt (even though you’ve had it on since eight in the morning) or looking like you’ve been wearing the same shirt for a week. It’s the quality of fabric that makes the shirt feel like brand new when you’re wearing it months later. It’s the quality of fabric that gives the shirt a certain texture creating a punchier appearance when balanced with your favourite jacket. It’s the quality that makes an Eton shirt worth investing in. Eton’s Creative Director, Sebastian Dollinger sums it up perfectly. "When you want to buy a hat, you go to a hat maker. When you want to buy a shirt, you go to a shirt specialist. When you want to buy shoes, you go to a shoe manufacturer (one of my personal favorites is Crockett & Jones). The reason to buy from a specialist is very simple; it’s going to be well made and you’re buying a product instead of vacuous marketing." EJ
#1 Issue 3
12 | The Essential Journal
FOUNDED IN 1928 BY SWEDISH COUPLE ANNIE AND DAVID PETTERSSON, THE BRAND ADOPTED THE NAME ‘ETON’ IN THE 1950S AFTER THE SUCCESS OF THEIR ORIGINAL ‘ETON SHIRT’,
words by DAVEY BRETT
The Essential Journal | 13
One From The Pitch and Three From The Court words by DAVEY BRETT
From the sports field to your wardrobe, the sport-led fashion brands that became household names
his year, luxury Parisian fashion label Eden Park celebrates its 30th birthday. Founded in 1987, the label is the brainchild of French professional rugby players Franck Mesnel and Eric Blanc formerly of historic Paris rugby club Racing Club de France. Mesnel’s time at the club was especially legendary, with him and his teammates referred to as ‘Le Showbizz’ due to the eccentricity they brought to the club both on and off the field. Whilst their style of play caught the eye of rugby fans nationwide, their on-pitch dress up won over the hearts of the rest of France at a time Rugby was still an amateur sport and not very well paid. During their heyday the team wore berets, black make-up and for their French league final in 1987 against Toulon, a pink bow tie – Eden Park’s iconic logo. That mixture of French style, flair and rugby tradition is evident in Eden Park’s sartorial output. Aside from the pink bow tie, a constant reminder of those heady competitive days, the label references its history with rugby jerseys (its original product), classic Parisian street style and dressed down tailoring with unapologetic twists scattered across their collections. Their spring summer collection is no different. Smart, high-quality and impeccably cut pieces that can be dressed up in the city and dressed down at the beach. EJ
...AND THREE FROM THE FIELD
Tennis has been kind to men’s fashion, most notably, through its gift of the polo shirt. Back in the 1920s when the sport was at the height of its preppy country club peak, tennis attire was bulky and restricting, more akin to the chunky knits and heavy trousers of cricket. Step up former tennis world number one, Mr René Lacoste and his lightweight cotton-mesh shirt (allegedly first designed for the sport of polo). The brand’s immediately recognisable crocodile logo is said to be a reference to both the Frenchman’s bold playing style and a bet he made with the French Davis Cup captain for a crocodile skin suitcase. The brand has since become synonymous with bold colour and pastel shades. Their signature polo remaining a wardrobe essential.
Creator of one of the most iconic garments of clothing in popular culture, let alone tennis (sorry René) you have to wonder if table tennis and normal-sized tennis legend Fred Perry could’ve ever imagined the impact his brand would have on subcultures across the world. From skins to mods, Weller to Winehouse the polo has cemented itself as a rite of passage through the ages. Perry himself was a keen admirer of all things sartorial too. A brand never afraid to experiment, recent collections have included collaborations with the likes of Art Comes First, George Cox footwear and fashion heavyweight Raf Simons.
When Bjorn Borg entered the professional tennis world in 1973, he immediately made his mark. Affectionately referred to as the first ‘rockstar of tennis’, the Swedish heart-throb was handsome, stylish and extremely talented, an electric shock of a player. Whilst the legends before him went after the polo shirt market, the iceman targeted an essential item of clothing rarely seen, wrapping his name around it and encouraging people to show it off. The humble underpant. Now leaders in the luxury underwear market, the brand’s profile has rocketed and as anybody who’s been lucky enough to find themselves in a pair can testify, the quality and comfort speaks for itself. Not content with just pants, the brand has also delved into sportswear.
14 | The Essential Journal
words by ALAN SMITHEE
GREAT BRITISH DESIGN Hawes & Curtis Celebrate over 100 years of Great British Design in their Spring/Summer 2017 Campaign
awes & Curtis celebrates great British design with a stylish campaign to support the Spring/Summer 2017 Collection. The campaign draws inspiration from the brand’s iconic designs and its contributions to the British fashion industry. Since pioneering the first backless evening waistcoat to creating the iconic Windsor collar, Hawes & Curtis has been at the forefront of British design for more than 100 years. The Spring 2017 Collection showcases the brand’s flair for design with new suits in this season’s blue and navy colour palette. Available in two and three piece styles, every suit is designed with meticulous attention to detail. Adding a fresh dimension to cotton shirts, the limited edition Curtis collection features bold British designs, unique details and statement prints. The collection has been updated with new collar styles and a contemporary extra slim fit. In rich jewel tones and relaxed feminine silhouettes, the chic women’s blouses salute this season’s ladylike aesthetic and the classic cotton shirts are all time classics. In order to emphasise the diversity of the British design industry, the collection is showcased in London amongst great British icons, from the red telephone box to the black cab, the Concorde to the Routemaster. Hawes & Curtis CEO Touker Suleyman says: “Britain leads the world in design and the innovations of British designers have been recognised globally for more than a century. Today the UK’s creative industries have never been stronger and we are very proud to be a part of it.”EJ
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GREAT BRITISH DESIGN 1 9 1 3
H AW E SA N D C U R T I S .CO.U K
S I N C E
J E R M Y N ST, OX FO R D ST, B R OA D ST, C A N N O N ST, LO N D O N WA L L , T H E S H A R D
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16 | The Essential Journal
UPPERCUT DELUXE MATT POMADE
words by JOHN THORNTON, Themodernman.co.uk
A few years ago, a man’s entire bathroom arsenal was a wet look gel and an athlete-endorsed razor. Now part and parcel of a modern man’s life, what new innovations does the future have in store for male grooming?
Summer can bring out the worst in oily skin - fight back with an anti-shine moisturiser.
Shaving’s a pain for sensitive skin, so soothe irritation before it starts with aloe vera.
a range of specialised body moisturisers and serums that help your colours pop and make even the most ancient ink look fresh and vibrant. One welcome change on the horizon is in face scrubs. Microbeads - the tiny, plastic particles that provide the scrubbing sensation - are facing a government ban due to environmental concerns. The race is on to find planet friendly alternatives, and early front runners are Zeos For Men QU3 Face Scrub and Rehab London’s Daily Detox Scrub. They use natural exfoliants like coconut and bamboo to exfoliate instead, meaning they’re good for your face and good for your planet. Facemasks are another new addition to men’s skincare with everyone from Ronaldo to Bieber snapping themselves enjoying one - but don’t let that put your off! Using a facemask once every week or two provides your skin with a deep cleanse, for noticeable improvements. Steer clear of the tacky cheap black ones you’ll see on social media - unless you want to rip your face off - instead, go with a premium mask like the new Barber Pro range. They’re designed especially for men, meaning they’re great for prepping your skin for a shave or getting rid of post-workout grime. Not every new innovation is a winner (see clip-on man buns) but now that even the most low maintenance men use a face wash in the morning, we’re sure there’s a bright future for looking your best. EJ
MEN-U MATT MOISTURISER
ne of the newest trends might come as a surprise because it’s actually a couple of hundred years old. Vintage shaving methods - using double edge razors, soaps and shaving brushes - are back, and in a big way. What’s triggered this return? In short, shaving has become a chore - and an expensive one at that. Every year the big name razor giants add another blade and another gimmick (the ball from your hoover, anyone?) whilst the price of their cartridges grows as fast as your stubble. Double edge shaving is a no-nonsense approach, but master the art and you can enjoy barberstandard shaves at home. Hawkins & Brimble have burst onto the scene by keeping the classic techniques whilst reinventing the tools we use. The old shaving creams our great grandads used probably had all the skincare properties of sulphuric acid, but H&B’s stylish shaving range utilises the same advancements you’ll find in high end face washes and moisturisers. Another age-old classic enjoying a purple patch is the tattoo. A centuries-old way of showing off your style, tattoos are everywhere now. Despite the time, dedication and skill that goes into the most unique form of grooming, there’s precious little available for maintaining them - or there was, until Electric Ink came along. They’re creating a storm here and in the US with
MUHLE ALOE VERA SHAVING CREAM
My barber got me hooked on this - all the flex of a pomade, but without the shine.
This Month's Top Picks
The Essential Journal | 17
18 | The Essential Journal
t might not be on sale in the UK until July, but this month we were lucky enough to be invited to attend the exclusive first European showroom unveiling of the new Range Rover Velar. The event, held in Liverpool at Hatfields Range Rover (the oldest established Jaguar Land Rover retailers in the world), gave industry insiders and journalists a chance to get up close and personal with the new luxury SUV which slots in alongside the Evoque and the Sport as the newest addition to the Range Rover fleet. At first glance, the luxury mid-size SUV boasts a striking and sleek exterior with the interior proving to be equally impressive. Created from a clean sheet using Jaguar Land Rover’s Lightweight Aluminium Architecture, the Range Rover Velar represents the next chapter of the Range Rover success story. Velar is defined by a visually reductive approach and meticulous attention to precision in every detail; this helps evolve Range Rover DNA and previews the next generation of Range Rover vehicles. Beautifully balanced with optimized proportions, a proud Range Rover lineage is instantly recognizable from the formal, horizontal feature lines, floating roof and continuous waistline, through to the taut and tapered lines at the rear. An optional 22-inch wheel further complements the vehicle’s stunning silhouette while further enhancing a dramatic sense of presence for the Range Rover Velar. Advanced technology is pivotal to the contemporary design: the full-LED headlights are the most slender ever to appear on a production Land Rover vehicle. The flush deployable door handles on the Range Rover Velar help emphasise a taut, elegant design language and contribute to a coefficient of drag making it the most aerodynamically-efficient Land Rover ever produced. The interior has been designed as
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH THE RANGE ROVER VELAR: The latest addition to the luxury SUV fleet
words by ALAN SMITHEE
a calming sanctuary; combining an exceptional sense of space with luxury materials and finishes, beautiful simplicity and precise execution. Unique in the segment, the Range Rover Velar offers a sustainable, premium textile seat material as an optional alternative to leather. The Dapple Grey woollen upholstery material was developed together with Kvadrat, one of Europe’s leading manufacturers of high-quality design textiles, and is complemented with Suedecloth inserts finished in Ebony or Light Oyster. The interior space of the Range Rover Velar is also defined by a new Land Rover Touch Pro Duo infotainment system. Two 10-inch high-definition touchscreens integrate seamlessly into the cabin architecture reducing the complexity of the dash and enhancing a sense of elegant simplicity. The Range Rover Velar is also practical. Built with seating for five and space for everything that comes with them, the Range Rover Velar features a luggage compartment volume of 34.4 cu ft. behind the second row seats. The incredibly lightweight and stiff aluminiumintensive body structure, together with doublewishbone front- and Integral Link rear suspension provides the perfect basis for agile handling, exceptional ride comfort and outstanding refinement. Combined with a comprehensive restraint system that includes six airbags, and a suite of advanced driver assistance systems including Autonomous Emergency Braking, Adaptive Cruise Control with Queue-Assist and an Adaptive Speed Limiter, the Range Rover Velar integrates the latest automotive technology. Land Rover set a new all-time sales record for the U.S. in 2016 and in 2017, the brand will launch the allnew fifth generation Discovery and Range Rover Velar, expanding the line up to six models. Designed and engineered at Jaguar Land Rover’s development centers in the UK, the Range Rover Velar will be produced at the company’s Solihull production facility. EJ
The Essential Journal | 19
words by ALAN SMITHEE
DMR & MERCEDES BENZ
n the stunning surroundings of Mercedes Benz’ new Cheshire Oaks showroom- the largest in Europe - DMR was fortunate enough to be the first UK retailer to showcase IWC’s new collection for 2017, including the brand's latest Da Vinci and recently expanded Ingenieur collections, on 19th May. Alongside a selection of supercars from Mercedes Benz’ own fleets, clients were encouraged to try these incredible timepieces, with expert guidance from DMR’s North West team and IWC’s sales representatives. As well as having the chance to try some beautiful pieces and sit behind the wheel of some incredible vehicles, clients also had the chance to win one of DMR’s exclusive prizes for the evening. Behind the wheel of Mercedes Benz’ own Formula One simulator, guests had the opportunity to win themselves a pair of signed Lewis Hamilton racing gloves, along with the chance to win their own IWC timepiece via DMR's social media competition. “We’re thrilled that so many of our clients were able to join us at Mercedes Benz Cheshire Oaks for such an exciting event. To see IWC’s latest releases alongside Mercedes’ own fleet of supercars, it was the perfect pairing for a fantastic evening.” Karl Irwin, General Manager. With a selection of cocktails provided by Manchester-based ‘The Alchemist’ and a shoe shining service by the ‘London Shoe Shine’, the event was a great success. EJ essential journal2.pdf
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20 | The Essential Journal
words by TOM WILLIAMS
The latest edition of the decade-spanning franchise is appropriately obsessed with creation in a film that, years on, still boasts one of the most intriguing alien origin stories in cinema history
he film begins with two familiar faces, one of which is Michael Fassbender’s – a face that becomes all too familiar throughout the film given his portrayal of not one, but two androids called Walter and David, with David first appearing in Prometheus. The other is Guy Pearce’s Peter Weyland – a name synonymous with the Alien franchise. They talk as creator and servant, whilst David ponders the idea of creation and humanity’s quest to discover it. This sets the tone for the remainder of the film, which follows a crew intent on colonising a planet far from the realms of Earth. They plan to do so with a ship (named Covenant) jam-packed with thousands of embryos, but of course like every Alien film, they encounter severe difficulties. The film has a surprisingly slow set-up, with a weird cameo from James Franco included, but the action heats up when they arrive at a potentially colonisable planet – as seen in Prometheus. This is where we re-unite with David who is blondetipped and dishevelled 10 years on from the events of the previous instalment. He is an older model of Walter which results in the conflict that anchors the main narrative of the film. Fassbender’s performance is arguably the greatest asset as we witness the bizarre world David has created in his post-Prometheus solitude. His creation-complex is etched into the landscape of the planet and his character alike, which is confirmed when he recites the poem Ozymandias in a poignant scene. The dynamic between the two Fassbender characters is pretty predictable, even with a strangely
This Month's Top Five Films by Tom Williams
erotic recorder scene thrown in the mix. Walter is an upgrade with the God-complex of David, who is kind of like a mix between Lucius Malfoy and I, Robot’s Sonny in his articulate form of sociopathy, being ironed out. We learn a lot about Alien’s origin in the middle-section of the film, gaining an interesting look at his genetic make-up which, up until now, hasn’t been properly explored in the franchise. The film fells more Alien-y when we return to the confides of the ship, where glorious tunnel shots are aplenty. This is where the heroine (Katherine Waterston) comes into her own. Manoeuvring around the ship in a calculated and badass manner, reminiscent of Sigourney Weaver’s iconic performance (and not just because of the hair) in the original. This instalment in general seems more loyal to the original than the steadier-paced Prometheus and is a good watch for Alien fans. It does however contain annoying space-film tropes such as people doing stupid things – like firing machine guns at the roof of the ship, and a slightly obnoxious rogue, Danny McBride, who wears a cowboy hat. The ending of the film is pretty good, if not predictable, and sets up a follow up to the franchise, which like Alien, never seems to die. In parts, Alien: Covenant is genuinely enthralling and is a valuable addition to the film series. It’s not ground-breaking by any stretch of the imagination, but it does suspense, horror, and gore in a way true to its roots with a few modern bells and whistles thrown in – such as a very detailed ear-zoom. When David is asked what he believes in, he coldly replies “creation.” Which typifies what is at the heart of this film: what created us and who created Alien. EJ
Described as an “absurdist war story” – Brad Pitt returns as a caricature of a four-star general in a twisted and modern portrayal of war and the media.
STYLE Consistent with the original with a sleek modern finish
SUBSTANCE It’s a film about Alien at the end of the day
ESSENTIALNESS Good for adding knowledge to your understanding of Alien’s mythology but not much else
Edgar Wright is back with a part musical, part action-thriller in an intriguing genre fusion. Ansel Elgort is the baby-faced lead in a film packed with car chases and an incredible support cast, including Kevin Spacey and Jon Hamm.
GUARDIANS OF THE GALAXY VOL. 2
Part Two of the mega-hit contains a scintillating nostalgia that made the first adventure so popular. See the talented ensemble reunite for a harmless fun-packed thrill ride before it stops showing!
The Essential Journal | 21
words by TOM WILLIAMS
HOW TO MAKE A SUCCESSFUL HOLLYWOOD SEQUEL (OR PREQUEL) YEARS ON It’s no secret Hollywood rinses popular films for every dollar they’re worth, with sequels and prequels being churned out every year – but how do you do it without desecrating the original?
ecently there has been a vogue for this phenomenon. Whether it be the likes of Alien, Harry Potter, or Star Wars, all the franchises are getting in on the act. Adding to a highly-regarded body of films is tough years in the future, so there are a few cardinal rules to follow as to not upset the die-hard fans. KEEP IT SIMPLE. This is what was done well in Alien: Covenant and Star Wars: The Force Awakens, and not so much in Prometheus and Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them. The former kept the narrative mostly the same, with constant reference to the previous instalments, allowing the updates in technology to add an extra impact. It was stunning to see the Star Wars universe in an ultra-realistic way, far more from the first six attempts. Likewise, Alien: Covenant enhances the tunnel shots and quick camera movements that were so intrinsically linked to the original. Prometheus failed by trying to be too different and stepped away from what made the original great, likewise Fantastic Beasts feels far too detached from the best parts of the Harry Potter universe. King Kong: Skull Island also wanted to be something it’s not, associating itself closer to Apocalypse Now than the original, which was a pretty colossal error in judgement. THROW IN SOME HARMLESS CAMEOS. There’s no point doing a reboot without having a few original characters involved. Don’t get me wrong, too many cameos and it feels desperate, but don’t kid yourself – give the people what they want. Again, Star Wars: The Force Awakens did this well without throwing it in your face. Blade Runner 2049 is similar, with Harrison Ford still having a role in the Ryan Gosling and Dennis Villeneuve reboot. Jurassic World and Alien: Covenant also did this, albeit with dinosaurs and aliens, and it paid off because people are watching these films to recapture their first experience of watching it. MAKE MEANINGFUL STORY ENHANCEMENTS. I know I said keep it simple, but make sure the film has a place within the universe and has something to offer. For example, Alien: Covenant gives you an added dose of Alien’s history and therefore makes it worthwhile watching. Don’t make a film that adds nothing to the original franchise because it’s too safe an option. On the other hand, don’t mess about with it too much ala Prometheus and distance it from the original because no one wants to see that. Ultimately, don’t fix something that isn’t broken. If you’re going to do a reboot, keep it familiar and bathe it with what people love about the original. Make it modern, but nostalgic and most importantly, don’t f**k it up. EJ
"...people are watching these films to recapture their first experience of watching it."
Another huge superhero blockbuster is set to hit the screens at the beginning of June, with Gal Gadot portraying the iconic Wonder Woman. A female lead is refreshing in a landscape of male-dominated superhero films, and is not one to be missed.
Sophia Coppola returns with an outrageously talented pack of female actors, including Elle Fanning and Kirsten Dunst, with a film centred on the lives of sheltered young women whose lives are changed when a wounded Union soldier (Colin Farrell) is taken in to their Virginian home.
22 | The Essential Journal
words by JAN JANSSEN
om Hardy has always given the impression of being a little dangerous. He admits to drinking so much in his early twenties that he has few memories of that time in his life. But he's long since atoned for his hell-bent past and in recent years has emerged as one of Britain's top stars with performances in The Revenant (for which he earned an Oscar nomination), Mad Max: Fury Road, and his new BBC TV series, Taboo, on which he did double duty as producer and star, and which has just been renewed for a second season.
The Essential Journal | 23
"I have a weakness for the darker side of things. I'm very suspicious of people who present themselves as noble and virtuous."
Next up, however, is DUNKIRK, Christopher Nolan's highly anticipated WWII drama in which he stars as a spitfire pilot. It's the third time Hardy has collaborated with Nolan, having previously played in Inception and The Dark Knight Rises and he believes that Nolan has crafted a masterpiece. "Chris has made a classic film, it has the epic quality," Hardy says. "It was a huge production to be part of and you feel the responsibility of telling a story that left its mark on everyone. You grow up hearing so much about it...Dunkirk was a big turning point in the war." The film also co-stars a certain pop star Harry Styles - who will doubtless add to the hype preceding its summer release date. Hardy didn't have any scenes with the "Sign of the Times" heartthrob, but speaks highly of the former One Direction frontman. "I met him once, really briefly. It was lovely, big hug. He's very polite and just a sweet guy." Hardy, 39, lives in London with his actress wife Charlotte Riley and their 18-month-old son. They began seeing each other after working together on Wuthering Heights in 2009. He also has a son, Louis, 8, from his previous relationship to Rachel Speed. With respect to working with his father Chips Hardy on Taboo, it all came down to Hardy's desire to have a greater say in the creative process: "(I did) Taboo because I had that drive to be a bit more than just an actor. Not just because I want more meat in a hamburger or I want to be heard; it's that I really care about problem-solving. I can do the acting relatively easily at this point, so my energy is kind of, "Oh, how can we make it better? I want to help the team." But the team just wants you to "shut up because the team needs to think." (Laughs.) It's like, "But I'm on the team! I want to help you think." "Just f-ing shut up, OK." So now I have that place where I can go."
EJ: Tom, Dunkirk marks your third collaboration working with Christopher Nolan. What do you most appreciate about him as a director? HARDY: Chris has complete command of the operation and you feel very secure working with him. It's great working with a man who's got everything under control. He's also open to ideas, which is a sign of a confident director, and I know I've irritated some directors because I'm always trying to make things better and I feel I can contribute something more. But with Chris I wouldn't even think of arguing with him...He's the kingpin. How do you compare developing, producing, and acting in Taboo where you were responsible for basically everything to being an actor on a mammoth undertaking like Dunkirk. Were you able to relax more? I usually don't relax when I'm working. (Laughs) What was easier about doing Taboo is that shooting in London meant I was able to go home every night and spend time with my family. My youngest was born three weeks before we started shooting (Taboo). Did it give you a special feeling to able to work with your father Chips who co-wrote Taboo? Yeah, I wanted to work with my dad. Chips has a lot of great ideas and I saw him as my partner in crime on this. It was also a chance for me to tell a story the way I wanted to and work in TV where you have much more time to develop the characters and unfold the story. I really liked the idea of returning to my roots and going back and working with the BBC the way I started out when I did Oliver Twist and I wasn't sure if I could make a living as an actor. How did your father help you in terms of specific things you wanted to bring to Taboo?
He helped me try to break with the way a lot of historical dramas tend to be done in Britain. They're usually too ideologically correct, ceremonious and false. I wanted to break with that and do something more visceral. What we wanted to do was tell a story that felt more authentic and departed from that classic kind of storytelling without losing that sense of history and those elements that formed our society and culture. You had a turbulent relationship with your father as a teenager and as a young man. It must be comforting to have sorted out things between you two? That's water under the bridge. I'm nearly 40, I have two kids, and my relationship with Chips has changed radically. As an only son, I had this deep need to rebel against daddy. While I was growing up, my father worked very hard and usually came home late and I didn't see him very much. Then I was sent to boarding school and for a long time I was looking for a father figure. But my mistake was that I chose the wrong people to hang around with who I thought were giving me a sense of security. My father and I only started to talk again and become close during the last 14 years or so. I needed to learn a lot about life and having my own children changed me forever. Now Chips and I are able to sit down and talk about everything and when we work together it's not like father and so, it's more like the spirit of two artists collaborating. Has it been a source of pride for you to have accomplished so much as an actor that your father can appreciate what you've made of your life? I like being able to impress him. I also have so much respect for him and I'm grateful that we've been able to grow closer together again and in a completely different way from when I was growing up. We can have conversations
that are more like two men talking to each other and also like father and son. How has having children changed the way you see or appreciate your father? It's made me see my time growing up and that part of my life with my dad in a completely different way. It's opened up my eyes and things have become much clearer. When you start raising your own kids, you learn very quickly how f**king hard it is! (Laughs) There are no guidebooks that are going to tell you how to be the perfect parent and it can be really tough. But it's also the most awesome and rewarding experience of your life. You are noted for playing dark and dangerous characters. Is that your preference? (Laughs) I have a weakness for the darker side of things. I'm very suspicious of people who present themselves as noble and virtuous. I hate that kind of sanctimonious posturing and those kind of people are often putting on a mask to hide. I also believe that the protagonist needs to be a more paradoxical figure filled with contradictions and ambiguities even though his underlying strength is his nobility. That's what makes truly great characters. You've described your family as your sanctuary. Is it a relief for you to be able to escape playing villains and get away from the dark side? I'm not dark at all in my own life. I love my family, my home life, and I love my dogs. If I'm working on a film, I live in that world that I'm creating through my character and that's where I need to be. But once it's over, it's like the stroke of midnight and the carriage turns into a pumpkin and I get to go back to my real world which is my family. EJ
24 | The Essential Journal
BASEL WORLD 2017
Following on from the success of the TAG Heuer Connected, TAG Heuer is now releasing the Connected Modular 45, a highly customisable 45mm Swiss made smart watch powered by Android and Intel technology
TAG Heuer’s CONNECTED Modular 45
WE LOVE A BIG WATCH! And if you do too, look no further than the CONNECTED Modular 45. With a sturdy 45mm case- and a certain amount of space needed to house some pretty impressive kit- the piece is definitely unmissable when locked around your wrist. Protected by an almost scratch resistant Sapphire Crystal glass, this timepiece isn’t designed to sit in its box. VERSATILITY AT HEART Tire of things easily? Then this is almost certainly the piece for you! With 4000 different dial combinations available on the Modular 45, the modular nature of this timepiece means that the wearer has almost complete flexibility when it comes to modifying your new favourite toy. With the ability to change not only the dial displayed on your watch face, but also your strap and even the lugs, you really do have the opportunity to tailor this timepiece to your own specification. The ‘TAG Heuer Studio’ function even gives you the chance to construct your own dial, fusing the best of TAG’s existing timepieces. CONSTANTLY IN TOUCH We know what those Whatsapp groups can be like…Walk away for just 10 minutes and you’ve missed it all. TAG Heuer has devised the perfect solution to this first world problem! With the chance to view notifications from Whatsapp and text messages, you can be certain that you won’t have to miss those all important updates. Plus, with the added ability to answer your phone calls (a connection available to Android users), your Connected timepiece will become another of those items that you just can’t live without. THOSE ALL IMPORTANT APPLICATIONS It’s not always just our Social Networks that we stay connected with. So many of the applications on our phones now provide us with updates throughout the day, keeping us up-to-date with everything from current affairs to those football scores on a Saturday afternoon. Bringing these notifications right on to your wrist, TAG Heuer has ensured that you’ll know how your team are getting on, just as soon as your friends do down the pub! And with the added ability to track your Spotify playlist, you’ll have total control over the tracks you’re playing, wherever you move to. FOR THE FITNESS FREAKS Having all this technology within reach could almost make you want to just sit back and relax. The Connected watch’s added fitness focus may just motivate you to walk that extra little stretch this week, however. Tracking your steps and changes on a daily basis, the Connected gives you an easy method to monitor just how much exercise you actually do each day.
TAG Heuer Autavia - An Iconic Return
If it’s an eye-catching, intelligent piece of technology that you like, the Connected Modular 45 is definitely a good option for you. With a vast selection of choices from straps to lugs, our teams in Liverpool One and Altrincham are on hand to take you through the selection available. DMR
The watch most associated with motor racing legends has officially made its comeback. The TAG Heuer Autavia – a clever combination of automobile and aviation – was originally created in 1962. To celebrate its 55th anniversary, the iconic model has returned in the form of a neo-retro successor. The original model was worn by legendary racing drivers of the ‘60s and ‘70s, Mario Andretti and Jo Siffert, and the revived timepiece is inspired by the Autavia ‘Rindt’ from 1966, a watch almost always worn by iconic F1
David M Robinson x Essential Journal
champion Jochen Ridnt. The new generation Autavia, which now features a Heuer-02 calibre proprietary chronograph movement, is much more than a re-issue of an old classic. The modern model harness's new technology and contemporary functions to bring it up to date, such as an impressive 80hour power reserve and a 100-metre water resistance. The classic chronograph boasts a black rotating bezel with three large, snailed white counters, providing perfect legibility. DMR
Its been one year since Rolex captivated the world by launching the new Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, enthusiasts and collectors waited with baited breath for Rolex to showcase its new models which aired online first, many people thought judging by the success of the ‘Pepsi’ bezel GMT that a GMT ‘Coke’ bezel would be launched, but this wasn't to be.
DMR’s 60 second guide to the latest Rolex collection from Basel...
owever, as predicted we weren’t disappointed, Rolex launched several new reference with a few updates on some classic originals, playing with the dials and hands, creating models on the highly versatile Oysterflex bracelet, adding complications and bringing back some features from older models and giving them a 21st Century facelift. The hype of the models started before Basel World, as Rolex told retailers that they would not be supplying any more of the original 116600 Sea-Dwellers, this started the forum chatter and ignited people's imaginations on what would be launched, of course, this was helped by Rolex producing various teasers which were launched on social media. Rolex has created models that appeal to all markets and also secured a niche position in today's watch market by creating an Annual Calendar in Steel and 18ct White Gold, for less than you think. Here at DMR, our experts are on hand to give you the best guide to the latest and greatest models launched, and give you a quick 60 second breakdown of each piece. DMR
ROLEX SKY-DWELLER Since its first conception in 2012 it boasted a new movement and new complication for Rolex, it still to this day remains the most complicated Rolex to date. Rolex, have launched a 18ct yellow gold and Steel model and the Stainless Steel and 18ct White Gold Model which is stunning to behold. The new pieces are half the cost of the original precious metal versions. Still featuring the Command Ring bezel, first seen on the original Sky-Dweller range, this allows the user to operate all of the four complications without the need for pushers, and maintains the water-resistance of 100m.
ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL SEA-DWELLER The main attraction of the Rolex stand was the reintroduction of the Sea-Dweller. Now in the new 43mm, it became the largest non deep sea dive watch since 1967, and now possess the iconic Cyclops for the date window. The reintroduction of the red Sea-Dweller name harks back to the original models Rolex produced, which, from my experience people LOVE. The original Sea-Dweller since being launched in 2009 and then reintroduced in 2014, had a tough time finding its footing in the Rolex market, with many people opting from the Submariner or the Deep-Sea model, but now with the bigger case size, and slimmer depth than Deep-Sea, I believe Rolex has hit the nail on the head and produced an all time classic timepiece. TECHNICAL INFORMATION • 43mm Oyster Case • 3235 Rolex Manufactured movement • -2/+2 seconds a day precision after casing • Scratch-Resistant Sapphire Crystal Glass, Cyclops over the date • 904L Stainless Steel • Waterproof to 1,220 metres/4,000 feet with the added Helium Escape valve • 70 Hour Power Reserve • Model Number: 126600 • £8,350.00
TECHNICAL INFORMATION • • • •
42 mm Case Oyster- Flat three piece links Model Number: 326933 £10,600.00
CELLINI MOONPHASE Rolex launched the redesigned Cellini range in 2014, with three movements, consisting of three handed time, one with a date and a dual time. Until now. Rolex was proud to launch a new model into their current collection of Cellini watches, featuring an added complication of a lunar cycle. Rolex haven't produced a watch with a this many complications in several decades. The Lunar phase indicator is designed to track the rough 29 day lunar cycle, showing the moon between its waxing and waning phases. This prestigious watch comes only in one dial and case material at present. TECHNICAL INFORMATION • • • •
39mm Case Leather Strap Model Number: 50535 £19,650.00
David M Robinson x Essential Journal
An Ode To The Speedmaster by NEIL BAXANDALL
am an OMEGA fan through and through. I have worked with the brand for many years, and have been lucky enough to have visited the headquarters and manufacture in Switzerland. Nothing, however, could have prepared me for the feeling I got when I entered the Baselworld hall and saw the OMEGA stand shining in all of its glory. Pure OMEGA joy. With an updated Seamaster Aqua Terra range and the New Speedmaster racing edition it has proved to be an interested Baselworld indeed. It is such a big year for OMEGA as it is the 60th anniversary of arguably the most recognisable chronograph in the world, The Speedmaster. OMEGA could have played safe it and launched one piece to commemorate the Speedmaster, but this was more than just one watches’ 60th… They have absolutely nailed it with this super rare and limited Trilogy of the Railmaster, Seamaster 300 and Speedmaster. An incredible set for collectors limited to just 557 pieces worldwide. That is great, if you can get one…But what about the rest of us? Well I am going to fly the flag for the current moonwatch in the collection, and tell you why in my opinion, it is the watch to invest in. If you are not aware, the OMEGA Speedmaster was selected by NASA to be part of the standard issue equipment for all manned space missions. This was no easy feat, as the Speedmaster and many other chronographs were put through rigorous testing. The Speedmaster was the only one to come out still intact and functional and was therefore the first watch on the Moon. It also played a vital role in the return of the Apollo 13 astronauts to earth, with them actually timing the engine burns needed to slingshot around the moon to put them back on track to fall back to
David M Robinson x Essential Journal
earth with the Speedmaster. An event that proved its reliability and hardiness that is still recognised today. Yes, it has been around for a little while and yes it isn’t really part of this year’s Baselworld launch, however, you simply can’t deny that in its current form and that it is one of the coolest watches out there. OMEGA has gone to great lengths to celebrate the heritage of the watch by keeping it as close to the original Moonwatch as possible. This is a piece that creates conversation, whilst wearing it people in the know will give you an approving nod as if to say “I know what that is and I approve”. You only have to look at the #speedytuesday to see what an incredible following this piece has. From a gifting point of view, it is fantastic because you have all the theatre that comes with the incredible box, the strap options and the history book that is included which takes you through the brilliant past of this legendary watch. I can’t think of a better time to invest than in the 60th anniversary year. Often I am asked which choice to make between the OMEGA that James bond wears or the OMEGA that the astronauts wore on the moon? Well my answer to them is usually this, do you want to wear the watch of a fictional hero, or the watch of the real life heroes that blasted into the unknown? I know my answer… "We choose to go to the moon, we choose to go to the moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard, because that goal will serve to organize and measure the best of our energies and skills, because that challenge is one that we are willing to accept, one we are unwilling to postpone, and one which we intend to win, and the others, too." JFK (known Omega wearer and former president of the USA). DMR
Celebrating a Music Icon In collaboration with the David Bowie estate, Raymond Weil pays homage to legendary musician David Bowie
he limited edition freelancer David Bowie is a tribute to the life and musical career of one of the most influential artists of all time. Created to celebrate what would have been the musician’s 70th birthday, a 42mm diameter case contains a dial resembling a vinyl record, other design details include a lightning bolt at 12 o’clock, which was painted across Bowie’s face on the cover of the 1973 album Aladdin Sane. The mechanical selfwinding timepiece will be produced in a run of 3,000 pieces.
Raymond Weil continues its collaboration with the world’s most famous band - The Beatles, by releasing a watch paying homage to Abbey Road, the last album recorded by the legendary Fab Four and regarded by some as their most influential composition.
his second limited numbered edition of 3,000 watches is a symbol of the timelessness of a group whose success and history are etched in our minds for eternity. Housed in a 39.5mm steel case, the dial of the maestro ‘The Beatles “Abbey Road” Limited Edition’ is a copy of a vinyl record engraved with microgrooves. Inspired by the iconic cover depicting The Beatles on the world famous pedestrian crossing, the outlined figures of John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr stride along the groove of their landmark record. At the heart of the dial and on the sapphire crystal case-back of the watch, the most iconic logo in the music industry beats to the tempo of the mechanical self-winding RW200 movement. Raymond Weil offers collectors and audiophiles a watchmaking classic with three hands, a date display and the timeless figures of those masters of music forever engraved in time and in the history of music. This model will retail for £995 and is due to be launched in May 2017. DMR
David M Robinson x Essential Journal
Best Ladies Watches at Basel 2017
5396R ANNUAL CALENDAR
TAG Heuer has reworked its legendary Link design, featuring the famous signature bracelet with S-shaped links. For the first time, the collection features bright colours – a choice of unique navy blue or pink mother of pearl brings the dials to life. The defining feature of the Link line is its immediately recognisable bracelet. Each link is ergonomically designed and is rounded on the top, bottom and sides for an exceptionally smooth feel on the wrist. In steel, with an elegant diameter of 32 mm, the new Link Lady now features a bracelet which is fully integrated into the case, whose horns have been removed. The bracelet still has a curved profile, and the finishes are even more sophisticated: The entire contour of the S radiates a highly polished shine, while the upper surface of each link is fully brushed. The new link is available in mother of pearl in various hues of pink, blue and a white, they have also created a version that comes with a rose goldplated bezel.
The 5396 turned 20 last year and for 2017, Patek has added two new references to the collection, the 5396R-014 and the 5396R-015. Both feature a deep blue sunburst dial, rose gold case, annual calendar and moon phase complications. The 5396R-014 features gold applied hour markers while the 5396R-015 boasts baguette diamond hour markers. Both references are run on the manufacture caliber 324 mechanical self winding movement.
OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST 2
Following on from the successful launch of the 28mm Gold and Rolesor range in 2015 and 2016. Rolex presents the full steel, white Rolesor, full diamond bezel and 18ct white gold. The new models carry a wide variety of dial options, including a few new colours that are sure to stand out. Ladies have been venturing into larger watches wearing 36mm and 40mm versions, however, many felt that the original 26mm was a tad too small. Now, with the new 28mm, Rolex has created the answer by launching this new reference which embodies a feminine look and feel by utilising the concealed clasp to provide an unbroken view from all angles.
THE AQUANAUT TURNS 20 To mark the 20th birthday of the Aquanaut, Patek Philippe has created the Aquanaut Ref. 5168G. This traditionally casual sports watch is elevated to new heights with a 42.2mm case made from solid 18ct white gold. The timepiece retains its signature slim profile and is run on the impressive selfwinding caliber 324 S C movement. The dial is engrossing, made from a subtle blue gradient which ends in black at the edges of the face. The hands, numerals and luminous markers are crafted from white gold and the watch is fitted to a night blue composite strap, fastened with a three part clasp also made from 18ct white gold.
SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA UNDERWATER TREASURE
The Seamaster Aqua Terra ladies’ watches from OMEGA are the ladies watches first to be powered by the state-of-the-art, anti-magnetic OMEGA Master Chronometer calibres. The movements are able to resist strong magnetic fields, and are considered of such high quality that each wristwatch equipped with one comes with a four-year warranty. Water isn’t a problem, either, with each piece water resistant to 150 metres. The new models, available in 38 mm, 34 mm or 28mm versions, feature beautifully symmetrical cases that now achieve a seamless integration with the bracelet, which makes this piece very comfortable to wear, a perfect fit for the lady who likes that blend of elegance and practicality. OMEGA has used some of its most striking materials for the cases including stainless steel and 18K Sedna™ gold. Inside the larger watch sizes is the OMEGA Master Chronometer calibre 8800, certified at the highest level for precision and performance as approved by METAS. The 28 mm versions include the quartz calibre 4061.
David M Robinson x Essential Journal
TUDOR CLAIR DE ROSE
Tudor’s promise of delivering the best quality watches for the most affordable prices now extends to its ladies lines. Few are the brands that are able to offer a mechanical women’s watch for under £2,000. Tudor’s new Clair de Rose range starts at £1,430 and extends to £1,860. Within that bracket sit six designs available at three different sizes: 26mm, 30mm or 34mm. The models are available exclusively in steel. All feature automatic movements, a date function and a winding crown set with a blue spinel cabochon gem. Every size in the line comes with a choice of three bracelets: steel with small ‘rice grain’ links, fabric, or black alligator leather.
DMR Staff Picks Our showroom staff from London, Manchester and Liverpool select and explain their favourite BaselWorld releases Sandy Madhvani - London Showroom
Lee Chadwick - Manchester Showroom
Patek Philippe 5170P
If I had to choose one watch from the fair this year it would the Patek Philippe 5170P. The final watch in the current collection of 5170's, this chronograph has the most stunning blue to black diamond set dial. Set in platinum, the case and dial are the perfect blend for what is for me the star of the current 2017 Basel launch.
My top watch choice from this year BaselWorld would be the new Rolex Skydweller with blue dial. This is a stunning timepiece. Only made in solid gold before, it is now available in steel and white rolesor and it is sure to become a future classic.
Mel Ricks â€“ London Showroom
Neil Baxandall - Liverpool Showroom
Alex Martin-Wright - Liverpool Showroom
Tudor Black Bay Chrono
OMEGA Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer
TAG Heuer Aquaracer
For me the star of the show this year was the Tudor collection, especially the new Black Bay Chrono. This is a stunning diving and racing hybrid 41mm Chronograph with a manufactured in house calibre. The denim NATO strap makes a fashion forward statement whilst the dial design still remains faithful to the features of the Black Bay with the snowflake hands.
For me the shining star at this year's fair has to be OMEGAâ€™s new Speedmaster. A collection that has really grown up from its previous editions. A true driving chronograph which harks back to the glory days of motor racing. Delicately reimagined for today's aesthetic, the 44.25mm case brings us bang up-to-date and the racing dial is the talking point of the piece. A wonderful change of pace for the Speedmaster range, taking cues from a motoring heritage rather than the usual Moon landing stories we hear about.
Every lady searches for the perfect outfit to wear, or the perfect bag to match the shoes. Well, Tag Heuer has listened and astounded the world by launching this waterproof watch, that will match every occasion possible. With its black mother of pearl dial, you'll lose yourself for hours staring at the beautiful colours created by Mother Nature.
David M Robinson x Essential Journal
FLY YOUR DREAMS.
Join the conversation on #B_ORIGINAL.
Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince”. Ref. 5009: The little prince tells the pilot he will give him a friendly laugh from the countless stars in the night sky. The sight this watch inspires similar sentiments, for every single detail is a joy to behold. The timepiece is not only an imposing 46 millimetres in diameter but also impresses with classic elegance that sets off the midnight blue dial to perfect advantage. Technical perfection, on the other hand, is guaranteed by the IWC-manufactured 51111-calibre
movement with its seven-day power reserve. Time enough to forget time and follow the dream-like journey of the little prince. IWC. ENGINEERED FOR MEN.
Mechanical movement, Pellaton automatic winding, IWC-manufactured 51111 calibre, 7-day power reserve when fully wound, Power reserve display, Date display, Central hacking seconds, Screw-in crown, Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides, Special back engraving, Water-resistant 6 bar,
www.davidmrobinson.co.uk St Ann's Square, Manchester, M2 7JB 0161 834 0217
4-6 South John Street, Liverpool, L1 8BJ 0151 708 1140
Diameter 46 mm, Calfskin strap by Santoni
David M Robinson x Essential Journal
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200 Years of the Big Smoke
words by ALAN SMITHEE
Turmeaus Cigar & Whisky celebrates two centuries as one of the UK’s foremost suppliers of fine cigars & artisan tobacco
he story of Turmeaus is one rich in history. Established in 1817 by the Turmeaus Family, the brand was born in Liverpool at a time when the city was at the very forefront of Empire. The following century would see the family set up a host of specialist pipe and cigar tobacconist shops across Merseyside building on a reputation of quality and selection. Since its 19th century peak, the business changed hands a number of times before being brought to its knees by a previous owner and resurrected by The Orchant Family, owners of C.Gars Ltd, the largest and most successful specialist tobacconist in the UK. Having taken over the last original shop on Liverpool's Water Street in 2002, the company expanded to stores in Chester, Knutsford, London's Mayfair and Norfolk and a reversal of fortunes soon began. In late 2016, Turmeaus relocated its Liverpool store from Fenwick Street to the majestic, Grade II listed confines of ‘The Albany’ on Old Hall Street. The building, a luxurious example of early Victorian office architecture, was built as a meeting place for cotton traders and hosts a stunning internal courtyard, originally left uncovered so that traders had a good quality of light to examine their cotton samples. The new Turmeaus store has added to the buildings history, bringing one of the UK’s largest walk-in humidors, stocked with an extensive range of Premium Cigars from Cuba, Dominican Republic, Nicaragua, Honduras and Peru. The store also carries a vast range of Fine Spirits including over 200 Single Malt Whiskies, dark aged Rums and fine Gin & Vodka. Friendly staff, expertly trained in their respective areas are at hand to guide you through the selections and service is second to none. Visits have an informative quality, with a story and meticulous detail behind every product. All Turmeaus shops are exempt from the smoking ban for premium cigar and pipe tobacco sampling purposes, allowing customers to sit in comfortable and bespoke air-conditioned lounges to sample tobacco products. The business has also been online since the mid 1990's as C.Gars Ltd and the company believe they offer the largest range in the UK, with a rapid delivery service, adamant that they will not be beaten on price. Plans for a truly unique whisky & jazz lounge concept alongside their current shop in Liverpool are also being watched with serious intrigue and curiosity among the cigar aficionado community. Turmeaus are pulling out all of the stops to celebrate their anniversary in style and after an incredible two centuries at the forefront of specialist tobacco and cigars, who can blame them? EJ
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Manchester City Centre: 0161 834 1616 Selfridges, Trafford Centre: 0161 629 1102 www.andrewcolinge.com andrewcollingeuk andrew_collinge andrew_collinge
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words by DAVEY BRETT
Gents, we need to talk about:
The Stag Do
In the second installment of our new regular column - in which we use our pondering skills to delve deep into clichés, stereotypes and seemingly unimportant male-orientated issues – we consider the notorious male rite of passage that is the stag do
***ing ready boys? Prepare for the best and worst five days of your life.’ Chilling words, even now. The battle cry (via. Instant message) of a stag, prebudget flight, awaiting his ‘Budapestiny’ as members of ‘the do’ put the finishing touches on a host of embarrassing plans to punish him for his imminent matrimony. My first ever stag do experience had begun. Of course, we hit every cliché-topped nail firmly on the head. You name it, we did it. Every square on our stag bingo card stamped. A full house of stag classics from beer bikes (an oxymoron in my opinion) to fancy dress and a wide array of other incriminating escapades that aren’t worth repeating, and that more importantly, I’m trying to erase from my memory. In this world, few events rival the nonsensical tribal madness of the stag do. Few carry an unrivalled obligation to attend, declining an invitation the equivalent of missing approximately ten birthdays. They are the jury duty of male friendship, once you’ve been summoned, there’s almost no avoiding it. From thereon it’s all about keeping with the beer-soaked traditions of excess, silliness and endurance. They’re fun but you wouldn’t want to do one every week, would you? The only type of ‘holiday’ that ends with a sigh of relief to be going home. It’s difficult to narrow down the origins of the phe-
nomenon, to pinpoint the first one ever. There’s no hieroglyphics documenting lairy Nile-side antics or fresco’s depicting biblical characters having it large on clouds, just the common theme worldwide of ‘the last night of freedom’ or ‘coming of age’. Now a multi million-pound industry, a host of specialist companies are at hand to organize the whole ordeal for you, brimming with costume, activity, destination, drinking and forfeit ideas. They even deal in ‘alternative’ stag ideas, the sort of thing where everyone spends their day biking or canoeing and the evening eating and drinking really well and nobody has to wear fancy dress. A fledgling part of the industry that deep down I hope will be the status quo by the time I pop the question. Hats off to the best man though, the individual in charge of organising such trips. Bringing together a mixture of people the stag has befriended at different parts of his life - inevitably polar opposites – is no easy feat. Neither is organising any type of activity with twenty odd intoxicated men. It is him who usually collects the money, organises the group finances (paying individually is impossible) and steers the ship towards bar after bar. We need to talk about etiquette too. Before we start accusing anyone of being a fun sponge, there are limits. Firstly, when does the stag do actually begin? Does it begin the moment you get on the plane or off the plane? Yeah, it’s the second one. Nobody wants to hear the stag’s
name swapped into the ‘Will Griggs on fire’ song at 39,000 feet, whilst your group chug away at tiny cans of whatever beer Easyjet is selling for a fiver. People scared of turbulence don’t want to hear you cheering it on either. Secondly, don’t be a dick. It’s a fine line of course, especially when you find yourself walking around a city with a lad who’s dressed up as Penelope Pitstop from Wacky Races and you want to give him ‘a proper send off ’. Know your limits. You’re not part of a colonial stag empire, here to conquer a foreign land, urging everyone else to bow down to the banter. Be aware of your surroundings, other people will be holidaying too. Sitting down for a romantic meal and seeing twenty minions walking into your restaurant is a mood killer. Of course, etiquette aside, the stag do is just a bit of fun. It’s an opportunity to catch up with old mates, reminisce on stories you can’t tell at the wedding, be drunk for drunk’s sake, get a bit loose and escape the nine to five. You’ll feel battered, you’ll feel bruised, part of you will ache and you’ll not want to touch a pint for a few days, but conquering the stag do comes with its own sense of achievement, overcoming and strange fulfilment. After all, if you can survive the stag do, you can survive anything.
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Spirits Guaranteed to Make Dad Smile... BLACK TOT LAST CONSIGNMENT
KAVALAN SINGLE SHERRY CASK #S100125026A
PORT ASKAIG 15 YEAR OLD SHERRY CASK
Royal Naval Rum, CARIBBEAN 70cl / 54.3% | £650.00
Single Malt Whisky, TAIWAN 70cl / 57.8% | £150.00
Single malt whisky, SCOTLAND 70cl / 45.8% | £85.55
This rum deserves its place in any list of the world’s greatest spirits. Aromas of thick treacle, dark chocolate and super-ripe black fruits reveal a lively palate full of cassis, espresso and cigar tobacco. This incredible spirit is the actual rum – not a recreation - that the British Navy used to give sailors as their daily tot until the 300 year old tradition ended on July 31st 1970. A day to be forever remembered as Black Tot Day. The bottle contains rums up to 100 years old from former British colonies including Jamaica, Barbados and Trinidad.
Matured in an oloroso-sherry butt, the whisky is deeply coloured and intensely flavoured. It marries Kavalan's trademark fresh-fruit flavours with deep driedfruit notes, and rich, nutty sherry-cask character. An excellent whisky that shows why Kavalan is getting so much notice.
This release of Port Askaig is a blend of peated whisky from 1997 (20%) and fruitier spirit from 2001 (80%). Matured in first-fill oloroso-sherry casks, this 15-yearold whisky has a silky texture with excellent balance between sweetness and stony smoke, and hints of violets and lemon sherbet.
PERFECT MEASURE ’30 YEAR OLD WHISKY GIFT SET
TICKETS TO WHISKY SHOW LONDON 2017
Cognac, FRANCE 70cl / 40% | £475.00
Frapin Extra is a blend heavy with old cognac from the family's 'ancestral reserve', packed full of cedar and fruit. It is made with eaux-de-vie up to 40 and 50 years old. The number of bottles is limited, and individually numbered.
5 X 3cl | £150
A superb gift set containing five whiskies, all aged for 30 years or more. There are 3cl samples each of: Talisker 30, Benriach 35, Port Askaig 30, Glenfarclas 30 and Benromach 35. This will make an extra-special present, and comes with a glass, too.
£99 per ticket
The perfect excuse for some Father and son bonding. The UK’s finest and largest whisky festival brings distillers and whisky lovers from all over the world together at Old Billingsgate in the heart of London for a truly spectacular food and whisky experience.
All available at www.thewhiskyexchange.com, and in-store at The Whisky Exchange, 2 Bedford Street, London, WC2E 9HH.
38 | The Essential Journal
The Open: Royal Birkdale’s Finest Moments
Arnold Palmer celebrating his win at Royal Birkdale, 1961
words by DAVEY BRETT
As the clock ticks ever closer to The 146th Open this summer, we take a look back through the history books at the moments that have captivated crowds on the Southport links
hen it comes to special moments at The Open, Royal Birkdale has seen its fair share. Some of the best golf the world has ever seen has been played across the windswept Merseyside coastal course and this year is set to be no different with the world’s best limbering up for the historic major. The course’s Open history began in 1954 when it hosted the 83rd staging of golf ’s oldest major championship. That year the competition would be dominated by a 24-year old Australian, Peter Thomson, with Jim Ferrier the only other Australian-born player at the time to have won a major. Thomson breezed through the rounds with the defining moment coming at the 16th, 25 yards from the flagstick. As the crowd watched on, Thomson, stood awkwardly on the steep slope of a bunker, eyes closed, and thrashed away, sending the ball high into the air and onto the green inches away from the hole, keeping its position as if attracted by a magnet buried in the soil. Thomson became the first Australian to win The Open and Royal Birkdale’s first time hosting was a cracker that set the tone for later years. Seven years later and another fairytale was waiting to be written. The 90th Open in 1961 would see Welshman Dai Rees pipped to the number one spot (by a stroke) at Royal Birkdale, this time by ‘The King’ Arnold Palmer. The shot that sealed it would prove to be one of the best the course had ever seen. An unfortunate drive at the 16th had buried the ball beneath blackberry bushes at the bottom of a small sandy bank. Lesser players would have opted to knock the ball back on to the fairway and take their chances from there, however this was not in Palmer’s DNA. Three holes from home and determined not to surrender the momentum, he took a six-iron and swung as hard at the ball as was humanly possible. “I cut enough hay to feed the cows for a year,” he was later to recall. “The ball came flying out, landed on the front of the green (around 150 yards away) and rolled up about 15 feet from the hole." The golf correspondent of the Daily Mail, wrote: "Not even a tornado could have wrenched it (the ball) free so cleanly. Some would swear afterwards that the ground shook beneath them as Palmer's club cleaved that bush from his path. Or maybe it was just the gods groaning their surrender, because Palmer was free of them at last and could proceed to his first Open title." Upon winning, Palmer remarked: “I wanted this Championship more than anything in my life,” before adding, “but anything
you want real bad is awfully hard to get.” Peter Thomsen would return to Royal Birkdale in 1965 to win the Claret Jug for his fifth and final time, with Lee Trevino winning The 100th Open six years later on the same course. The occasion would be marked by a battle between Trevino and another crowd charmer in Taiwan’s Lu Liang Huang, clad in his iconic pork pie hat. Unfortunately for ‘Mr Lu’, the Championship would come to a difficult end, with one of his shots hitting a woman in the crowd on the head. Americans would continue to dominate the next two Opens at Royal Birkdale with Johnny Miller and Tom Watson winning, before Australian Ian Baker-Finch won The 120th Open in 1991. Perhaps one of the most remarkable shots and indeed performances played across the Southport dunes came in the 1998 Open. Mark O’Meara was to win that year in a play-off against Brian Watts, but the real surprise package came further down the leaderboard. Justin Rose, then only a 17-year-old amateur equalled the record for an amateur in The Open with 66 in the second round. Shot of the tournament also came from the youngster when he lifted the ball out of the rough onto the green on the final hole. The ball continued as Rose watched on, before sinking neatly into the cup for a birdie and tying him for fourth. The crowd response was equally special. Onwards to 2008, and the most recent Open at Royal Birkdale was one of the best. Padraig Harrington, one of only 16 back-to-back winners of The Open, arrived in Southport with a taste for claret after winning the jug the previous year in Carnoustie. Not only did Harrington deliver the shot of the Championship that year, he delivered the shot of his career, cueing journalists to question whether it could indeed be the best shot ever? His coach, Bob Torrance described the shot on the approach to the 17th as the “the best shot I ever saw”. Bob Torrance’s son, Sam Torrance OBE, a professional golfer and commentator is said to have called his father upon seeing the shot and said, “Dad, I have just seen the best golf shot of my life." The shot? A 249-yard beauty, struck low with a five iron downhill landing on the green curving round just short of the hole. From that moment the Irishman knew he had won the Open. All roads lead to Southport again this summer for the Royal Birkdale’s 10th time hosting the Open. If the last ten occasions are anything to go by, fans are in for something truly special. EJ
113918 R&A Essential Journal R&A Open Ad 355x260 v1 RM.indd 1
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40 | The Essential Journal
Are you a practising illustrator or want to find out how to get a career in illustration to take off? The Association of Illustrators (AOI) is the professional body for illustration offering business advice, hosting friendly events for creatives and campaigning for a thriving industry. Find out more and join today at www.theaoi.com or follow us @theaoi
words by THOMAS SUMNER
Illustration's Going Underground One Hundred illustrations hang in the London Transport Museum’s Exterion Media Gallery, waiting for their chance to dress the walls of the Underground this summer
n 1908, Frank Pick was handed the reigns to The Underground Group’s publicity. After a period of predominantly text based artwork, Pick started his era by commissioning John Hassal, an established artist, to design a modern graphic poster. One hundred and nine years on, the London Transport Museum (LTM) continues Pick’s vision with the launch of The Prize for Illustration 2017: Sounds of the City. Having launched on 19th May, with a successful special edition of Friday Late, the museum now has 100 entries hanging proudly in the Exterion Media gallery. Visitors will enjoy a visual journey inspired by lyrics and language; hubbub and stillness; heritage and science; through to the wildlife and nightlife of our diverse and multi-layered cities, right up until 3rd September, with the winner announced in May. Organised by the AOI (Association of Illustrators), over 2000 entries were whittled down to the final 100 by a panel of industry experts and enthusiasts. Speaking over the phone whilst stood in the exhibition hall, former Poster Commissioner for the LTM, judge and illustration expert, Michael Walton
spoke highly of this years entrants, confidently claiming to be surrounded by the creme-de-la-creme of British Illustration. Although having worked with the museum for the past 18 years, there is not a specific poster that stands out to Michael; “That’s difficult to answer, as they are all relative to the brief.” Fair play. So how about today’s brief, capturing the sounds of the city? “It’s unusual. It has been built to challenge and so, has produce some very intelligent illustration.” Walking through the hall as we speak, Michael points out elements of each artwork that begin to offer an insight into the minds of the intelligent 100; Record titles, radio waves, piano keys… We have been writing more and more features recently here at the Journal, that focus on going back to tradition. Illustration is exactly that; pen and paper, scissors and paper, materials, texture, off screen. Michael puts the joy of illustration down to “The allure of the printed page.” I wonder why you picked the Journal up today? Michael goes on to describe the mental requirements of illustration and how more is needed of the artist and the viewer, as the illustration before them translates as an insight into the mind.
Not one to want to cause an argument, perhaps illustration offers an insight into thought, whereas photography offers an interpretation of a moment? Though there are no evident recurring themes in this years entries, Michael picks out three works (pictured above) that exhibit two key elements that attract the judges attention. The first, immediacy, is present in both Broadcasting House and Sound of the Underground. Straight away, immediately in fact, you see what the illustrator has put on the page. In this instance, the home of BBC Radio, Broadcasting House and musical notes. The second is the use of detail. All three offer a varying level of detail, from the clever simplicity of Sound of the Underground, to the studied sectioning of City in the Setting Sun and the intelligent melding of building, radio and underground stations. By the mid-1990’s, commissioning artists directly for posters was becoming increasingly detached from London Transport’s marketing strategy. Thanks to the work of Michael and his colleagues, they have ensured that posters retain a presence on the Underground network. Listen out for the winning illustration while you’re travelling the capital’s underground this summer. EJ
The Essential Journal | 41
CULTURE "The AOI is without doubt the best trade association I’ve ever belonged to. It always has someone on the end of the phone to advise you, it oversees contracts, gives advice on how to get more work, and is constantly encouraging and opening up opportunities for its members." - Boo Paterson
words by THOMAS SUMNER
At The Cutting Edge of Illustration We catch up with talented Scottish illustrator and impressive all-rounder Boo Paterson for a brief chinwag ahead of the release of her first book 'Papercut This Book' released by Pavilion Books on 10th August.
oo Paterson is an illustrator. Not in the way you're thinking, but in a different way. She's also an internationally published journalist and in the past she's been a burlesque and cabaret producer, a music manager and even a circus ringmaster. For all we know, she probably still does all of those from time to time, but at this very moment, Boo Paterson is road-tripping across the USA, en route to New Orleans, minus her baggage because Wow Air have lost it. You get the feeling that she isn't going to let them get off lightly. Back to illustration though, and Boo is not your average illustrator because she doesn't use a pen. She uses a knife. She still uses paper, but her artwork is of the papercut variety which makes it stand out from the pack. Perhaps her defining piece to date is one named 'Sea Sick'. The piece was inspired by the events of the refugee crisis in the Mediterranean sea and depicts silhouettes drowning within a whirlpool that also resembles barbed wire. The work, which was selected by the Royal Scottish Academy of Art for their Open exhibition, also saw Boo shortlisted for the 2016 World Illustration Awards. Her other work has proven to be equally vibrant and provocative, often covering political issues head on. Her debut paper-cut book 'Papercut This Book' will be
The Prize for Illustration Left BROADCASTING HOUSE by JOVE Center SOUND OF THE UNDERGROUND by SAM HADLEY Right CITY IN THE SETTING SUN by JARI JOHANNES Boo Paterson Left AMERICAN PSYCHO Right ATLAS & RIVINGTON part of The Greek Gods in New York
Tell me a little about yourself, Boo... We moved around a lot when I was growing up; seven times before I was 15, mostly around Scotland, but also near Morpeth, in Northumberland. I was encouraged to be creative – there were always art supplies lying around – and the first thing I remember making was a 3D birdcage out of yellow printer paper, covered in glitter. I was 3 or 4 years old at the time. I won the dux at high school for art and it was considered that I would go to art college. But when I was a teenager it was also commonly thought that you couldn’t make a living as an artist. Schools didn’t encourage art careers, and the question was always ‘how are you going to get money?’ No one ever mentioned illustration, design, or portraiture as careers, so I became a journalist instead, so I could support myself. I’ve now been a journalist for 28 years – I still freelance and run my own arts and culture magazine for New York, booyorkcity.com – but I kept doing the odd art commission over the years. Because I found journalism quite dull, I also worked as a burlesque and cabaret producer, and music manager on the side. I then quit being a staff journalist to become a PR, later going into music management full time, before moving to New York to try and break one of my artists there. After that, I toured the world with vintage spiegeltents and big tops as a ringmaster. I ran away from the circus in 2014 and went back to art full time. I was pre-selected for the Royal Scottish Academy after a couple of months, and a year later was chosen to exhibit there. That was the encouragement I needed to keep going. I was shortlisted in the World Illustration Awards in 2016 and I signed a world-wide deal with Pavilion for Papercut This Book the same year. To most, illustration is pen and paper, however your work is knife and paper. What is illustration to you? I always say art is for the heart and illustration
is for money! A lot of illustrators hate having clients tell them what to do, but I rather like realising other people’s ideas visually. The PR in me likes problem solving for people and suggesting concepts clients may not have thought of. There are a lot of political themes woven into your work. Do you use your work to raise awareness of political situations? I’m a highly political person and I feel very strongly that it’s my duty to raise awareness of unacceptable situations in as beautiful and poignant a way as possible. I like the fact that the fragility of paper can say something strong enough to feel like a boot in the solar plexus. I usually find that when I’m boiling with rage about injustice, I can’t stop myself from papercutting a response. It’s a good channel for that energy and hopefully it makes people examine certain situations in a new way. Looking back in history, is there an event you'd most like to have documented with your illustration? I guess it would be the civil rights movement in America, though sadly I’m doing work on that same subject in the present day. My work ‘Night of a Thousand Eyes’ was done as a direct response to the police killings of Michael Brown in Ferguson, Missouri, and Eric Garner in New York. I understand that you split your time between Scotland and New York. Do you notice a change in the style or themes of your work when in either location? Not particularly. I’ve always felt like a citizen of the world, rather than particularly Scottish, so my themes tend to be bigger than a particular city or country. I suppose the one series I’ve done that is purely of its place is the Greek Gods in New York. This shows the Titans helping Manhattanites with tasks mundane and extraordinary. I love the fact that the Greek gods had human failings – they were drunk, passionate, jealous and angry. New Yorkers, too, have their emotions right at the surface… sometimes right in your face. EJ
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words by MARTIN CLARKE, Dogood Audio
Hi-Fidelity As our pilgrimages to the record store become more frequent, the quality of digital conversion is lagging behind. Now, with the push of a single red button, Convert Technologies is bringing vinyl to digital quality up to scratch
n 2007, a phenomenon began to creep across the world of music. What started with incremental growth soon lead to an overwhelming surge as the vinyl record made it’s come back. As the focus of music technology shifted towards convenience over quality, this seemed to be the biggest curveball of them all. But what if you could mix convenience with the beautiful and timeless sound of vinyl? It seems that the Plato range, from Convert Technologies, has the answer. The idea of converting your vinyl collection to a digital one is no new thing but so often the result can be poor; it can take a long time, be very complicated, and you may end up making a compromise on sound quality. Instead of kicking back and enjoying the beautiful sound of your music library whilst recording your vinyl, you spend too much time fiddling with complicated software; cutting the sound into individual tracks, editing each song’s metadata and downloading album artwork. Thankfully, there’s now an easier way. Plato’s world leading technology changes the game entirely. With Plato, it’s simply a case of placing the needle on the record, then letting the tech do all the hard work. There’s no need for you to install, set up and learn how to use complex software, so it couldn’t be more convenient. You’ll have your music, complete with metadata, straight into the all-in-one hub, ready to be streamed around your home. Even better, you can export your music to your phone or tablet and take it wherever you wish, meaning you can listen to your vinyl collection in the car, the bath, or whilst going for a run. Regarding sound quality, you no longer need to settle for sub-par MP3 standard. Plato lets you record your vinyl to FLAC, so you get a verbatim copy of what your stylus picks up; only the best. In fact, “only the best” is a theme that runs throughout Convert’s work. Once you’ve recorded your vinyl at the highest quality, Plato allows you to stream it around your house to multiple rooms at once, powered by its inbuilt class A amplifier. Fully integrated amplifiers are becoming more common, but Convert’s patent pending adaptive-biasing technology makes Plato unique in terms of heat management and high resolution audio output.
As with its vinyl recording ability, everything about Plato focuses on excellence meets simplicity. The easy to use app, versatile streaming capability, CD ripping ability, and large storage facilities all make this the ultimate hub at the centre of your home entertainment system. Convert Technologies, the makers of the Plato range, are a proud British brand dedicated to reinventing the way you experience music. Every single Plato is created and built in Convert’s head office in Derby. The dedicated technical team make sure every system is thoroughly tested before going on sale, so from start to finish, you only get the very best. Plato lets you breathe life into your old music collection, converting it to digital at the very highest standard. EJ
44 | The Essential Journal
words by MILES KENNEY
LIVERPOOL(E): MOVER, SHAKER, ARCHITECTURAL RISK TAKER A new exhibition coming to Liverpool’s RIBA North celebrates the ambition and history of the city’s architecture
s part of a recent exhibition at Liverpool’s Open Eye Gallery, Stephen Jones, one of the world’s foremost milliners (hat makers) hailing from The Wirral was featured in a video talking about his relationship with Liverpool. In the video (which is still available to watch on the SHOWstudio website) Jones talks fondly about childhood trips to The Walker Art Gallery, Speke Hall and Sefton Park’s Palm House and how those experiences influenced him and his work. He talks about the city in a measured and articulate way. He talks of the city’s ‘grandeur’ and how the buildings were a Georgian and Edwardian show of power and he finishes the video with a definitive statement about Liverpool. “It’s spectacular in the way that London isn’t.” He’s right of course. Liverpool’s architecture is spectacular, so spectacular that it will be the focal point of the first exhibition at RIBA North, the new national architecture centre at Mann Island on the Liverpool waterfront which opens on 17 June to the public. The Exhibition, Liverpool(e): Mover, Shaker, Architectural Risk Taker, celebrating Liverpool’s architectural ambition and history, will feature over 30 original drawings, models and watercolours from the RIBA collections for Liverpool designs that were never realised. Collectively, they reveal much about the process behind Liverpool’s development from architectural competitions to speculative ideas that were not realised. Also exhibited will be a newly commissioned film, in which a collection of leading architects discuss Liverpool’s architectural audacity, its
willingness to consider unconventional schemes and how this panache has resulted in the iconic and celebrated skyline we see today. Amongst the ambitious proposals on show is a design for the Liverpool Anglican Cathedral by Sir Charles Archibald Nicholson from 1901/1902. He proposed a hexagonal space with pairs of unusual radiating transepts, like the petals of a flower. It would have been roofed with a dome, and the transepts would have had huge windows, flooding the space with light. Sir Giles Gilbert Scott won the contest but Nicholson was able to reuse his idea for the chapel of Clifton College in Bristol. Stirrat Johnson Marshall envisioned a bridge over St James’s Cemetery with thrilling views, for an exercise at Liverpool School of Architecture. He envisaged a ponderous Gothic viaduct with a dizzying height. Another vast-scaled idea on display is by Graeme Shankland who reinvented Liverpool’s skyline. On a two metre wide panorama visitors can get a glimpse at what the planning consultant imagined for an urban renewal after two thirds of the city’s buildings were declared to be obsolete during the 1960s. At the same time, Sir Denys Lasdun wanted to introduce his new Brutalist style to Liverpool. The architect, who is well-known for the National Theatre in London, designed a new Roman Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral with a distinctive roof of a shallow cone, folded into deep furrows and ridges probably intended to be made of concrete and glass. His entry was rejected and instead Frederick Gibberd got to leave his mark in the city. Joseph Sharples, co-curator of the exhibition
and author of the Pevsner Architectural Guide to Liverpool, said: ‘The RIBA Drawings Collection is an astonishing resource, but its riches are not widely known among non-specialists. This is a great opportunity for audiences in Liverpool to see some of its treasures. Superb watercolours of the original proposals for St George’s Hall show how this famous Liverpool landmark reached its final form, while vivid sketches by Sir Edwin Lutyens for the Roman Catholic cathedral give a sense of direct contact with the architect’s creative process. Many of the Liverpool-related drawings in the RIBA were made as entries for design competitions, and this suggested the theme of the exhibition. With its dynamism and its exceptional setting, Liverpool has always challenged architects to design bold – and sometimes controversial – schemes. To see these unbuilt projects gathered together is a reminder that today’s city is the result of countless choices between alternative visions. The creativity Liverpool has inspired in the past can be a benchmark for the future.’ The exhibition coincides with the opening of RIBA North. Designed by Broadway Malyan, the centre will host exhibitions, talks, tours as well as a cafe and shop. Alongside a permanent ‘city gallery’ looking into the past, present and future of Liverpool and the surrounding area. As well as the permanent display, RIBA North will host a bold programme of temporary exhibitions and host the historic RIBA Collections, the nation’s richest resource of architectural drawings, photographs and prints dating from the late 15th century to the present day. EJ
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46 | The Essential Journal
words by MATT FARRELL, Co-founder of Graffiti Spirits Group
SOHO FARMHOUSE Usually travel EATS guide has been reserved for towns and cities but Soho Farmhouse, a memberâ€™s club perched on the Northern tip of the Cotswolds, is a charming countryside settlement within its own right. Whether you are there to work or play tthis 100-acre rural getaway is the perfect escape from the daily grind
The farmhouse is completely sustainable and this oozes through the environment and culture of the grounds. Several of the core ingredients are reared or grown on the farm. The Main Barn is the farm's central culinary hub which also includes two mezzanines. The menu is accessible fresh and seasonal with the Pigs in Blankets and Flat Iron Chicken the pick of the main menu. The area reinvents itself throughout the day from its impressive open kitchen. Breakfast is served here from 7am and includes an impressive continental buffet selection. Later in the afternoon a tea table emerges with guests able to help themselves to homemade cakes and scones all. A dangerous prospect for the waistline. Fancy farm is located on one mezzanine overlooking the activity below, achieving a more intimate and private atmosphere. Expect a small modern 3 course British Menu and extensive wine list. Comfy Farm sits on the other mezzanine which includes a fire place, contemporary art pieces and larger sofas, both of which provide an intimate cosy atmosphere and they are also both child free. The Haybarn is also open at the weekends and serves up rustic Sunday feast style Roasts. The jewel in the crown is the Asian-influenced Pen Yen which is situated in the boathouse. The restaurant embodies a bright airy atmosphere with views
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(E)ats (A)ctivity (T)ipple (S)tay ...aims to provide an informative quality food and drink information travel piece for the discerning traveller looking for the local spots and hangouts.
overlooking the lake. The menu features sashimi, salads, agemono, tempura and traditional Japanese robata grill dishes such as sea bass with sancho pepper and beef fillet with radish and spring onion ponzu. The boathouse also cleverly doubles up as a workspace in the day, often being used as a secondary office by its members. As well as laptops-a-plenty it includes a healthconscious, counter-cafe style service.
Follow Matt on Instagram: @fazmangoes
Give up the car on arrival at the gatehouse and be leisurely escorted to your cabin in an old electric refurbished pastel blue milk float. They are a staple of the farm and are used for everything from maintenance and taxis, to room service deliveries to your cabin. The farm is always awash with activity and this can be as strenuous or relaxing as you wish. If you are also lucky to get the weather when you arrive there is an abundance of outdoor goings-on. Contact one of the helpful team pre-or post-arrival to arrange shooting, boules, table tennis and even flying your own plane over the Cotswolds countryside. Yet, simplicity is the key and bike riding around the different points of interest is the most popular past time and another fabric of the farms culture. The rest of the facilities are whimsical including the luxurious Electric Barn Cinema. Next to this is a cookery school which is located next to the seasonal ingredients garden and a small but attractive lake were you can leisurely row across to the boathouse and the outdoor pool. A well-equipped no expenses spared gym and fitness suite is also nearby, with busy classes starting at 5.30am. There is a fully-equipped Cowshed Spa and outdoor Jacuzzi and even a 5-a-side football pitch, unfortunately my 16-week pregnant wife didn't fancy the latter.
The main bar is an attractive island bar and the central piece in the Main Barn. Sample a twist on a classic, the Soho Negroni for a well-balanced aperitivo or if the sun is shining over the ranch take a Watermelon Daisy out in the central courtyard. The atmosphere inside stays vibrant but has an intimate air, accommodating large groups of friends and families relaxing across the barn. Modelled as a country pub The Mill Room Pub serves local beers, ales and cider as well as holding a strong selection of high end spirits. However, I’m assured the party gets a little wilder in in the later hours Bands and Djs regularly play and they serve well into the night until the last people leave. One thing certainly stands when it comes to the wow factor. Calling out the milk float to your cabin and having
your cocktail mixed in front of you in your cabin is a customer service experience like no other.
The 40 cabins offer rustic interiors, fantastic views, untreated original walls and floorboards, woodburning stoves and well-stocked kitchens for the selfcaterer. They range in size and impressively include a 4 and a 7-bedroom cottage. The Bell tents are available if you want to be at one with the elements or like the ‘glamping feel’. Each tent comes with a six-foot bed, a wood burning stove, rugs and a pair of armchairs. Bathroom, shower and sauna facilities are in the Boathouse, less than 100 metres away. There’s also an outdoor living area, with tea, coffee, a hot water bottle station and hay bales around a fire pit, perfect for toasting marshmallows. Some will be lucky enough to afford membership, which allows access all year round. Otherwise, guests must settle for midweek or quieter times on request. Undoubtedly, the Soho Farmhouse is a treat that everyone could get used to. EJ
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FREE PRIVATE HIRE at all times including Friday and Saturday
Perfect for work parties, birthdays, christenings, Christmas events, small weddings and all types of small gatherings.
Please get in touch to book or to discuss your requirements: Ma Boyle’s, The Tower Building, The Strand, Liverpool L3 1BH 0151 236 0070 www.maboyles.com essential journal.pdf
BØCK BIÈRE CAFÉ THE SUNDAY RØAST FØNDUE
WHAT MANCHESTER HAS BEEN TALKING ABOUT! Enjoy our Bourguignon style Belgian biere infused gravy lava served with a melt in your mouth beef brisket, roasted vegetables and B e l g i a n w a f f l e s t y l e Yo r k s h i r e p u d d i n g s . Also available with breaded cheese & vegetable balls as a vegetarian option. S e r v e d e ve r y Sunda y b e t w e e n 1 2 -8 p m. Bo o k y o u r t a b l e n o w t o a v o i d d i s a p p o i n t m en t . 0 1 61 8 3 9 42 8 8 / i n f o @ b o c kc a f e . c o . u k 10 Ti b L a n e , Ma n c h e ste r M2 4 J B
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words by ALAN SMITHEE
4 Star Luxury on the Golf Coast The Open 2017 is coming to the Royal Birkdale, just a short distance from Formby Hall Golf Resort & Spa
s one of the country’s leading destinations for golf breaks, Formby Hall has established a high-profile reputation for hosting elite events and attracting golfers of all abilities from across the UK and Europe. Set in almost 200 acres of parkland, the hotel is well known for its four-star facilities and the high standard of its golf courses and PGA Golf Academy which bring visitors from all over Europe. The resort is hosting players, press and VIP guests for the event. One such player will be Tommy Fleetwood Southport born golfer. After a distinguished amateur career of world ranked number 1, Tommy is now playing his 7th professional season, 6th on the European Tour. Tommy joined Formby Hall as a 6 year old when the club first opened 20 years ago. As his career has developed he has always maintained his relationship with Formby Hall and is as proud of his links to the club as the members are of his achievements. Following a successful amateur career that included victories in the Scottish Amateur Open Strokeplay and English Amateur Championship Tommy turned Professional in 2010 playing off a handicap of plus 5. Tommy’s first professional win was at Formby Hall. To celebrate this relationship as part of the hotels £2.4m refurbishment, Formby Hall is naming its new private dining and meeting space after Tommy. Formby Hall Golf Resort and Spa’s owners are investing £2.4m in refurbishing the hotel, expanding the spa and health club and improving its golf facilities. Andrew Pyle, general manager at Formby Hall, said: “There’s already been significant investment into the golf side of the resort and behind the scenes at the hotel within the first year of ownership, now we’ve moved on to the first phase of refurbishment and expansion. “The Resort has been success since it opened in 2008, building a loyal following who use all the Resort’s facilities, and it is time to refresh it and give our guests something new.” Existing facilities include the challenging 72 par 18hole parkland championship Old Course, a links style nine-hole Woodhey Dunes course, floodlit weatherproof driving range and the north west’s only PGA Golf Academy. Significant investment will enhance the estate’s top golf resort status by adding a new Mizuno teaching studio within the golf academy’s instruction school and developing the Kids Coaching Academy. Mark Williams, golf manager and head professional, said: “Formby Hall already has a great reputation but the new owners are keen to take us to a new level. We’re really trying to stand out from our competitors. People increasingly prefer to stay at destinations in the UK rather than going abroad – the exchange rate has played a big part in that – so we want to give them additional reasons to stay here. “I’ve worked and played in Europe, particularly Austria, Spain and Portugal, and that’s how I see our facilities, offering the features and social aspects of a traditional members club with the enhanced lifestyle benefits that the additional resort facilities bring — we have men, women, children, all ages playing and enjoying the resort together.” General manager Andrew added that the first phase was on schedule to be completed by the end of May. “That is our deadline, in time for the Open at Royal Birkdale this summer which will be a really busy time for us. But it is just part of the overall plan and a taster of even better things to come.” EJ
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I think most people when asked which words or images comes to mind when thinking about Texas, could be forgiven for mentioning the following: Cowboys, oil and guns. words by NICK THOMAS
ertain popular 80’s TV soaps certainly helped to mold our imagination as to how a typical Texan would dress, and with more oil fields than any other US state, $60.6 billion in total petroleum and coal based exports in 2014 (highest in US), and an “open carry” policy to firearms, it seems you would be right. But America’s second largest state has undergone some stealthy, yet remarkable changes over the last decade. The first thing Texas is not short of is space, and in business, space means opportunity. The second thing is money. Texas sits behind only California in GDP, with around 8% of total national GDP. Texas has quickly become a hub for new and exciting businesses, with everything from food and drink, to apps and tech finding foundations in the lone star state. Nowhere has this change been more visible than in Austin, which now boasts one of the best bar scenes in America, and is home to arguably two of the worlds best BBQ joints, Franklin’s and Salt Lick, just a few of the reasons why visitor numbers have more than doubled over the last 10 years. Having worked in the food and drink industry for over 16 years as co owner of a BBQ smokehouse, I had to make the journey to what is fast becoming a ‘must’ for anyone that shares my passions. Located on the Colorado river, north of San Antonio and Houston, Austin is a fairly compact city, and easy to navigate whether by car or foot. Most of the city's hot spots are either situated along the river or in the downtown area surrounding 6th street, which has more bars in a half mile stretch than I have seen anywhere else in the US. Hotels are mainly based downtown as well. The city is impeccably clean, and the people are friendly and helpful, even if they are carrying guns. EJ FRANKLIN BARBECUE 900 E 11th st Austin BBQ at Franklin’s comes with baggage. Voted by many (including NY times, and timeout) to be the best BBQ in America comes with its fair share of problems. Add to that the fact they open only from 11am till 3pm Tuesday to Sunday and unless you arrive well in advance you may not even get served, and you have the potential for a disaster. I arrive with my business partner on the advice of some locals at a spritely 9:15am and to our surprise, the queue is already 60 strong. Franklin’s sits on the corner of a street less than two miles from the center of Austin and would be missed easily if not for a small sign hanging above the door. Chairs are kindly provided for those that arrive early enough, and the morning sun is a very welcome note. We quickly discover that the guys at the front have been there since 7am, and regularly make the trip from Houston (165 miles). This is not so much a restaurant; it seems, but a pilgrimage. We settle in to our place and
quickly strike up conversation with our fellow BBQ enthusiasts. Very quickly you realise that this is much more than just waiting to be fed , it’s a unique social gathering, an international and culturally diverse dining experience, with the fabulous smells of wood, smoke and BBQ providing the soundtrack. Everything here is smoked on site, using special blends of wood, in Aaron Franklin’s custom built smokers, which are locked away in their purpose built vault. We place our order at the counter (meat is served by the pound) and pay with the cashier. We have turkey, brisket, pork ribs, sausage, pulled pork, and sides. And Tipsy Texan and pulled pork sandwiches. The brisket (extra fatty) is the best I’ve ever had, as is the tipsy Texan sandwich. We only pause to share appreciative glances with our dining comrades. This is what BBQ is all about. SALT LICK BBQ 18300 Farm to Market rd, Driftwood Texas 22 miles outside of Austin, this ranch restaurant offers a much more traditional Texas pit BBQ experience. All the meat here is smoked over arguably the most impressive BBQ pits you will ever see. Ribs sits on cast iron
bars above a pit of glowing woods and coal and sausage hangs above. Pit masters add chicken and turkey legs and baste meats with huge mops. The smells are unbelievable. No waiting needed here as the restaurant can cater for over 300 people at once. This is big business BBQ. Despite the fact that this is clearly a tourist hot spot, the BBQ here is exceptional. Especially the smoked turkey, ribs and sausage. GARAGE BAR 503 Colorado st, Austin This hipster bar is tucked away inside an actual working parking garage in downtown Austin. Not so much as speakeasy, more hidden in plain site. Cocktails are accomplished but not too fancy, and the service is excellent if a little slow, but the bar is always busy. Be nice and the bartenders will share some of their superb rum selection with you. MIDNIGHT COWBOY 313 E 6th st , Austin Once part of Austin’s red light district (hence the name), Midnight Cowboy is another of Austin’s hidden bars. It pays homage to an era gone but not forgotten with names like H.
Craddock, J. Thomas and other cocktail legends on its apartment style buzzer system. Craft cocktails new and old are on offer and reservations are a must. A stunning bar and great menu let down only by overly pretentious staff. RED HEADED STEP CHILD 119 E 5th st, Austin Hidden behind the “Floppy Disk Repair Co.” sign is this fun, quirky Austin hangout. A favorite for bartenders and hipsters alike, it offers a tiki themed cocktail bar with a twist. Fun times to be had here if you can get in. THE ROOSEVELT ROOMS 307 W 5th street, Austin Inventive cocktails and impressive surroundings in this Industrial- chic space with a mezzanine bar. Hands down the best drinks, available spirits and service in this Austin nightspot. Award winning, and deservedly so. Info Flights available from London to Austin direct for approx. £700 Flights from Manchester to Houston from £350 with Singapore Airlines
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52 | The Essential Journal
What The Pho?
words by ALAN SMITHEE
There’s a new kid on the block, on Liverpool’s famous Bold Street
ho - a much-loved restaurant specialising in Vietnam’s national dish, a delicious rice noodle soup - has opened its doors, bringing a taste of southeast Asia to the eclectic mix of coffee shops, bars and bistros that adorn the area. The family-run business has a deeply authentic feel, serving healthy Vietnamese street food and premium spirits to complement the restaurant’s signature dish. What is Pho? It all started 12 years ago, when Brit husband and wife team Stephen and Juliette Wall quit their jobs, travelled to Vietnam on holiday and instantly fell in love with the people, the culture and the food. Sat slurping phở on high stools among the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City, the couple decided to open the UK’s first specialty Vietnamese street food restaurant. And the rest is history. Fast-forward to the present day and the popular eatery has branches all over the country including Manchester, Leeds, Birmingham, Bristol, Brighton, Cambridge and quite a few in London. Now, Liverpool has joined the family. What is phở? Phở is the Vietnamese national dish - pronounced ‘fuh’, unlike the restaurant which is Pho [foh]. It is a nutritious and delicious rice noodle soup full of fresh ingredients and either lean meat or veggies. It is thought to originate from the northern Vietnamese city, Hanoi, and is sold largely by street vendors. Many believe the dish is a Vietnamese take on the French soup "pot au feu" or French beef stew, which the French brought to Vietnam when they ruled the country. Often served with chicken (phở gà) or thinly sliced steak (phở tái) in Vietnam, at Pho you can choose from a long list of about 20 variations of phở. Whether you fancy tofu and button mushrooms (phở chay) or homemade beef meatballs (phở bò viên), there'll be
something to tickle your fancy. Want something spicy? Try one of the hot and spicy soups, originating from the Imperial City Hue – they’ll knock your socks off. The wonder of phở is that every bowl eaten can be tailored to suit the mood and the unique taste of the consumer. It’s never boring. A huge plateful of fresh ingredients accompanies each bowlful to be added at intervals throughout the slurpfest. Customise and build your own taste-sensation by adding coriander, Thai basil, mint, a squeeze of lime, crunchy beansprouts and super-hot fresh chillies. Then adapt your broth further by helping yourself to the range of table sauces: add sriracha for a kick, fish sauce for extra saltiness or garlic vinegar for sourness. Don’t be shy now!
At Pho, the phở is complemented by other Vietnamese street foods such as homemade spring and summer rolls, spicy salads, fragrant curries, wok-fried noodles and delicious drinks and desserts. All the food at Pho is made with fresh ingredients at each branch every day - no frozen or pre-packaged food at all and, amazingly, no central kitchen as many multisite restaurants have succumbed to. Their broths are made in-house from bone and simmered for at least 12 long, delicious hours to maintain optimum flavour and goodness. Perfect for many diets and lifestyles, most of the phở soups are low in fat and jam-packed with 10 vitamins and minerals, including vitamins C, B3, B6, folate, iron and magnesium - nutrients which all contribute to the reduction of tiredness and fatigue. What’s more, the entire menu has a wide variety of options for vegetarians and vegans, as well as catering to gluten-free (they are accredited by Coeliac UK) and dairy-free requirements. In fact, they’ve been rated one of the best gluten-free restaurants in the UK. And if you’re heading for a night out on the tiles, you’re in luck. They do booze too. Choose your tipple from a great wine list, a selection of imported Vietnamese beers or delicious cocktails with an authentic twist using Vietnamese spirits. Try the “Phojito” (their take on a mojito, of course), a Bloody Mary using Sriracha-infused tomato juice for the ultimate hangover pick-me-up or a “Ca Phe” martini using Vietnamese
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CHEF KNOWS BEST with JULES WALL the co-founder of Pho
Pho’s broths are simmered for at least 12 hours to retain all the authentic aromas and flavours
Any hacks when it comes to cooking Vietnamese food? I’m sorry to say there aren’t many shortcuts when it comes to making pho, a rice noodle soup (and the national dish of Vietnam). An authentic pho broth is made by slowly simmering bones for a good 12 hours and it’s this preparation that is key to the soup retaining all its goodness and developing its own distinctive tastes and aromas. I guess it’s good to know you’re in it for the long-haul if you want to make pho at home but the time and patience will pay off! Essential ingredients you'll need to have in your kitchen? Spices like star anise, cinnamon, garlic, onion and ginger for making broths, and loads of fresh herbs to add to all dishes (coriander, basil, mint), plus chillies and lots of limes. You must have fish sauce – it’s the true flavour of Vietnam and the cornerstone to the most wonderful dipping sauce in the world (nuoc cham). Soft rice noodles and crunchy pickles add essential colour, texture and intricacy to dishes. Freshness is key. Crucial kitchen equipment and specific cooking techniques? Cooking techniques: patience! Equipment: a mandolin, a big pot for simmering broth and a noodle net would be handy. What are the perfect accompaniments to Vietnamese dishes? A cold Vietnamese beer!
coffee and condensed milk (a spin on the espresso martini). Interested in trying something new? Just look out for Pho’s neon sign and step right in. The restaurant seats about 85 with a mix of high and low counter seating, cosy booths and benches - and is therefore well-suited to big groups as well as an intimate meal for two on date night. Don’t miss the artwork on the walls by Julian Hanshaw, UK illustrator famous for his graphic novel The Art Of Pho and vibrant Vietnamese street scene graffiti by Liverpool native artist Leimai Lemaow.If you’re pushed for time they also offer a brilliant takeaway, Pho To Go. The perfect healthy food for every occasion. EJ Where the Pho? Liverpool 79 Bold Street Liverpool, L1 4EZ Manchester The Corn Exchange 37 Hanging Ditch Manchester, M4 3TR London (Covent Garden) 65a Long Acre London, WC2E 9JD www.phocafe.co.uk/locations | @PhoRestaurant
54 | The Essential Journal
The Essential Journal | 55
As part of a new regular travel feature, we have teamed up with luxury travel specialists, Positive Luxury, to shed a light on the brands leading the way in innovative and unforgettable travel experiences around the globe
words by ALAN SMITHEE
Tailor-made Treks From once in a lifetime Amazon river cruises to private dining in the middle of breath taking Bolivian salt flats, Aracari are crafting bespoke trips that push the boundaries of luxury whilst making sure sustainability is at the heart of truly extraordinary experiences
racari has specialized in designing
luxury, sustainable trips to Peru, Bolivia and the Galapagos for the past 20 years. The founder of Aracari, Marisol Mosquera, has focused on offering insider experiences in Peru by drawing on her personal network of specialist guides making trips around this beautiful country, truly authentic and unforgettable. This also enables Marisol and her team of locallybased top Peru specialists to craft the best luxury travel Peru experiences. From exclusive access visits in Peru with leading academics who work only with Aracari, to enjoying community-based tourism initiatives as part Aracari’s low impact trips to Peru, the team’s expertise is unparalleled, offering genuinely bespoke travel Peru trips. Aside from the popular ‘Lost City of the
Incas’, Machu Picchu, may be one of the seven new wonders of the world and Peru’s most wellknown attraction, but this enigmatic country has even more to offer as part of a tailormade luxury travel Peru vacation, something Marisol is keen to unveil to the world. Some of these hidden gems include the charming city of Cusco, where the surrounding Sacred Valley promises a playground for the adventurous traveler. Get further off-thebeaten track in the Cordillera Blanca where you can expect glittering lagoons and little-trodden paths to fully experience luxury Peru trekking. The capital Lima easily tempts foodies to stay longer to enjoy world-class cuisine, while the year-round sunshine of Peru’s northern beaches provides a quiet haven to kick back and relax. Boasting sumptuous suites at five-star hotels and tucked-away lodges overflowing with
character, there are endless options and opportunities for luxury travel Peru experiences guided by top Peru specialists, whatever your travel style and interests. If searching for the experience of a lifetime in Peru, Bolivia and the Galapagos and value authenticity, charm and class, Aracari is made for you. You want to feel privileged, well connected and have exclusive access whilst seeking to meet people with a deep understanding of Peruvian culture. The guides at hand are honest, compelling and well-researched, paying attention to the slightest detail to look after you from start to finish. Aracari is a travel agency devoted to Peru that’s based in Peru and operated by Peruvians. Aracari offers tailor made experiences making sure you make the most of your trip to this breath taking part of the world and cherish these memories for a lifetime. Having said that, some of the ‘standard’ destinations and packages includes trip to Machu Picchu by train or via the Inca Trail where the most famous trek in South America will take you to the world famous UNESCO World Heritage Site. Offering these tailor made and off-the-beaten path experiences was born out of Marisol’s passion for travel and quest to stay well away from crowds and tourist traps to unveil Peru’s best kept secrets. Why not hike and bike to the salt pans of Maras or even zip line your way down your own private pod off a cliff at the Skylodge? A Vertical Handing Module awaits you, equipped with four beds, dining tray and a bathroom concealed in a zip-closure wall and curtains. For those eager to explore Peru whilst floating to the rhythm of waves gently rocking you through the deepest of rainforests, Aracari recommends the best luxury Amazon cruises run by Delfin Amazon Cruises. Delve into pristine rainforest of the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve on an unforgettable voyage to one of Peru’s most remote rainforest areas. Spanning more than five million acres of flooded forest, the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve is the largest, protected flooded forest in the world. Due the nature of this fragile ecosystem, the best way to explore is by boat ranging from vessels kitted out with a massage room, observation area and lecture room, to cruises offering intimate cabins comprising of a
handful of deluxe suites and master suites. If you’re celebrating a special occasion, Aracari can arrange access to some of Peru’s most exclusive restaurants with private hire for events and the opportunity to meet world-leading chefs. Prefer to dine al fresco? The team carefully picks iconic locations for unique destination dining experiences such as a private picnic lunch in the middle of the Salar de Uyuni salt flats in Bolivia. Looking to go the extra mile? Private charter helicopters, jets, cruises, yachts, train carriages and much more is also on offer. Peru is rich with heritage and archeological treasures. After a scenic 40 minute hike through the mystical cloud forest of Chachapoyas in northern Peru, you arrive to witness one of the most impressive and remote archaeological sites in the country. The six ornate figures have been standing on that ledge gazing out across the valley for over 750 years. Should you want to reconnect with nature, there are few experiences as unique and memorable as getting up close to the extraordinary creatures that inhabit the Galapagos Islands. Lacking the natural fear that most possess in the wild, enjoy encounters with a myriad of unusual species in this precious protected environment such as the giant tortoise and marine iguana. Alternatively, The Humboldt Current off Peru’s pacific coast is teeming with marine wildlife, and at the right time of the year (August to October) offers a rare glimpse of humpback whales breeding and calving. Joining a team of marine biologists on a trip from Mancora is an insightful and interactive experience to get close to these majestic creatures. At Aracari, the team strives to deliver our responsible travel Peru commitments and understand that for truly responsible travel it takes a collaborative effort. Aracari aims to lead by example with their sustainable trips to Peru. Partnering with environmental organisations that tackle the environmental impacts of tourism, Aracari work with suppliers and select ethical business partners, whilst encouraging guests to be better informed, culturally sensitive and aware of their responsible travel choices. In recognition of Aracari’s commitment to sustainability, the Butterfly Mark by Positive Luxury has been awarded. EJ
A Note from the Editor “You’re never as good as they say you are and you’re never as bad as they say you are.” George Clooney Wise words...
Published on May 31, 2017
A Note from the Editor “You’re never as good as they say you are and you’re never as bad as they say you are.” George Clooney Wise words...