Slice Of The City_ Issue 12

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SLICE OF THE CITY NEIGHBOURHOOD NEWS, INSIGHTS & INVITATIONS FROM THE DOYLE COLLECTION ISSUE 12 SUMMER 2022

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More of us join gyms in January but summer is the season for actual sporting moments – from long afternoons of park softball to the roar of the crowd at the big game. In homage to our Irish roots (and given the proximity of The Croke Park to, well, Croke Park), we’re celebrating Gaelic Football and the ancient art of Hurling. Speaking of celebrations, it’s Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee. And, speaking of queens (and all other shades of the rainbow) June is world Pride month. So, we’re marvelling at the beauty of platinum, discovering the origins of Pride, and celebrating life, love, inclusivity and acceptance every single day. As Ru Paul might say, “can I get an Amen to that”? THE CROKE PARK Explore our range of Irish family-owned luxury hotels superbly located in the centre of London, Dublin, Bristol, Washington DC and Cork

GET IN TOUCH Website doylecollection.com Instagram @thedoylecollection Facebook TheDoyleCollection

A RIGHT ROYAL JUBILEE What better way to celebrate Her Majesty the Queen’s 70-years on the throne than with a splendid commemorative Afternoon Tea? We can’t think of a better place to enjoy our legendary Jubilee Tea or cocktails than in the comfort of The Bloomsbury, The Kensington or The Marylebone. While Afternoon Tea is always a culinary star, this June it’s just one of several delightful celebrations of the best of British that we’re offering as part of our Right Royal Jubilee Experience, including a full English breakfast, Afternoon Tea for two, some sensational royalthemed cocktails and the chance to book your preferred private walking tour for up to six guests with our resident Blue Badge Guide. 2

If you’ve always wondered why Green Park is almost entirely without flowers, where you can find 12,000 roses blooming in central London and how St James’s Park got its name, you might be interested in the Royal Parks Tour. If history is more your thing, perhaps Royal Exhibition and its Legacy or the Monarchy and Medicine tours – for those of a literary bent, a Children, Literature and Royalty tour might be more your cup of tea? A Royal Jubilee Experience is available until 3rd July at The Bloomsbury, The Kensington and The Marylebone. It includes: Full English Breakfast, Afternoon Tea or cocktails for two, Private walking tour for up to six guests (an additional £150). doylecollection.com/escape-to-the-city

ON THE COVER Rainbow painting by Steve Johnson

Slice of the City is published on behalf of The Doyle Collection by Rivington Bye Ltd. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All details correct at the time of publication but may change. For all editorial enquiries: enquire@rivingtonbye.com


LA DOLCE VITA

PRIDE IN CORAL

We’re always thrilled to see a

With

new summer terrace installation

lacquered, bright coral walls,

at The River Club and 2022

Callacatta marble-topped, Art

is especially divine, as we

Deco-style

celebrate La Dolce Vita in an

modernist Murano chandeliers

abundant grove of lush florals

and

and deep greenery – just like

back,

an Amalfi terrace. As the River

designed

Lee rolls by, our La Dolce Vita

maestro Martin Brudnizki and

menu and cocktail list will

feels a little like relaxing in an

refresh, while our partnership

enormously

with Oceans Plastics Project

-lined jewel box. What better

(cleaning up beaches, recycling

destination

plastics, researching the impact

brunch? Come on over, Saturday

of microplastics and lobbying

2 July, for entertainment, a

against water pollution) and a €1 donation for every cocktail makes each sip feel worthwhile.

News & Views

theriverclubcork.ie

high-gloss,

bar,

glamorous The

spectacular mirrored-bar

Coral by

almost

Room

global

opulent, for

mouth-watering

was

interiors

velvet

our

PRIDE

menu,

and

a special cocktail list with a donation made for every glass raised to London Friend – a

THE GREAT BRITISH SUMMER At The Kensington we’re celebrating some of the best the summer has to offer – from the sights and scents of the Chelsea Flower Show to the highs and lows of Centre Court, the finishing line at Ascot to the tossed boaters of the Last Night of the Proms - with a brand-new menu of cocktails created by our fabulous mixology team and served in the club-like surroundings of The K-bar. Naturally, we’ll also be creating a cocktail to commemorate 70 years of Queen Elizabeth II on her Platinum Jubilee. doylecollection.com/hotels/the-kensington-hotel/dining/k-bar EVERYTHING ROSÉ Come to WILDE at

YES CHEF! In 2019 the Washington Post proclaimed “The Pembroke makes the Dupont Circle a destination again”, so a new chef is news. Turin-born, DC-hothoused, Enzo Fargione now takes the helm at The Pembroke. Best known for his creativity, innovation, and for his culinary bible Visual Eats, A behind-the-scenes look at Modern Italian Cooking, Enzo is the simple answer to the question “Who would be the dream choice to raise one of the highest dining bars in DC?” and we’re thrilled to have him. Benvenuto, Enzo. thepembrokedc.com

its

The Westbury to celebrate summer with some of the finest rosé wines from the South of France. Perched above Grafton Street, the elegant terrace will be billowing with pink blooms - the perfect setting for our Everything’s Rosé tasting experience. wilde.ie

charity

working

to

improve

mental health and wellbeing in the local LGBTQ+ community. thecoralroom.co.uk

FOR THE LOVE OF BOOKS This year, we’re immensely proud to be co-sponsors of two literary events. The Festival of Writing and Ideas in County Carlow on 10-12 June might be small in stature but it has attracted some intergalactic past names, from Zadie Smith to Martin Amis, Donna Tart to Louis De Bernieres, and cultural icons from Chrissie Hynde to Sir Bob Geldof. While just south of Dublin The annual Dalkley Book Festival and Literary Awards (16-19 June) are a highlight of the Irish Literary Calendar. This year you’ll see the likes of Lemn Sissay, Laurie Anderson, Fintan O’Toole and Sarah Waters in Carlow, and Marian Keyes, James O’Brian, Sally Rooney and David O’Doherty in Dalkley. Book now at: festivalofwritingandideas.com dalkeybookfestival.org 3


NOBLE PLATINUM As the world’s eyes turn UK-wards to mark the platinum anniversary of our longest-lived monarch since time began, we look at the precious metal (or the chemical element, Pt) that is popularly used to symbolise those 70 years

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Q

ueen Elizabeth II’s 70th anniversary (platinum) makes her the UK’s longest reigning monarch ever. Ascending to the throne at 25 may have seemed young when Princess Elizabeth suddenly lost her father at just 56 years of age in 1952, but actually a full 25 British monarchs were crowned younger (including Elizabeth I and Queen Victoria), while 28 took the throne at a more mature vintage. Of course there are jokes aplenty about Prince Charles being the professional nearly man, but he has been heir-apparent for over 70 years, and when he does finally become King he will possess the oldest head crowned by over a decade (William IV held this honour previously, aged 63). Though she drove ambulances in the blitz during WWII, the Queen has doubtless benefited in terms of longevity from several safety factors. Obviously not having to lead her knights of the realm into actual battle (imagine Sir Cliff, Sir Elton and Sir Mick trotting out for a life-or-death joust) will have helped. As will the evolution of medical science and living standards which have seen significant diminishing of the plagues and pestilence that contributed to carrying so many of the populace away prematurely in days gone by. In addition, of course, the Queen has clearly inherited formidable genes from the Queen Mother (she was 101 you know!), who was fit as a flea and sharp as the proverbial tack into extremely old age. Throughout 2022 there will be many thousands of words written about the Queen and her family, with commemorative issues, facsimile editions, film and documentary footage galore. A multitude of facts, figures, ‘did you knows’ and ‘would you believe its’, and a dizzying array of opinions, speculations, interviews and recollections. So, we felt inclined to focus instead upon the anniversary and leave Her Majesty to the experts. Platinum it is then.

WHAT PRICE PLATINUM? When we first looked at platinum we were in for a few surprises - knowing only that it’s silver in colour, it’s super durable and it’s more precious than gold. Even this isn’t entirely accurate. It is true that platinum is the most expensive metal when used in jewellery – a platinum ring is pricier than the equivalent in gold. This is for several reasons, most notably because platinum is harder to mine, therefore more expensive to extract, and also because precious metals used in jewellery are sold by weight. Being purer than gold (a platinum ring is over 90% pure, whereas gold will typically be about 55-60%) it weighs more. Platinum is also the preferred choice for diamond jewellery – it’s more durable and arguably better brings out the beauty of a diamond. So, you’ll pay more for platinum when you’re buying jewellery than you do for gold.

Left Commissioned by George VI from Cartier, the Halo Scroll Tiara is made of platinum and was worn by Kate Middleton (The Duchess of Cambridge) on her wedding day. Above 99.98% pure platinum blocks

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Despite this, even though platinum is rarer, harder to extract when mining and weightier than gold, in the global markets it isn’t always more expensive. When you’re buying bars or trading in platinum, the price is subject to the vagaries of the wider market in a way that gold isn’t. This is because platinum is a metal with many more industrial uses than gold, which creates a different narrative of supply and demand, naturally impacting on the value of the precious metal. So, for instance, platinum has been widely used in the automotive industry in catalytic convertors (in fact, more than half of all platinum is used that way). It is more expensive than palladium, which can be used as a perfectly good substitute. As some car manufacturers have switched to palladium, the demand for platinum has diminished and with it the global price against the price of gold. As a result in 2022 gold is worth more than platinum, which could make platinum a better immediate investment, especially as it will never be commonly available or easy to mine.

DON’T KNOW MUCH GEOLOGY… Today 80 percent of platinum is mined in South Africa (the other 20 percent divided between Russia and North and South America) and because it is only found in very small quantities (just 250 metric tons per year – compared to around 3,000 metric tons of gold), it is often as a by-product of the mining of other precious metals. This is further complicated by the fact that much of the platinum that’s close to the earth’s surface has been mined already, driving the sourcing process deeper, making it more complex and challenging to reach. This will no doubt continue to impact upon the quantity available and consequently, the price. Properties of platinum are unique among precious metals. It shares being highly resistant to tarnishing or corrosion (giving it the ‘noble’ moniker), but it is notably stronger and exceptionally heat resistant, with a much higher melting point than gold or silver. When it comes to jewellery, this makes it harder to work but stronger when complete – one of the many reasons it’s so sought after. Platinum is highly ductile (meaning it can easily be stretched into wire), is an excellent conductor of electricity and is extremely stable – unreactive both when it encounters chemicals and the human body. This makes it a very stable metal to work with in manufacturing – and it is widely used in the aforementioned catalytic converters as well as electricals, pacemakers, magnets and, possibly more surprisingly, medicines. About half the drugs commonly used in cancer therapy today are formulated with platinum (which is known to inhibit the growth of some cancerous cells) – also it’s biologically

Above Platinum mining in South Africa. Right The platinum chalice made by Don Francisco Alonzo and presented to Pope Pius VI in 1789. It is made from the first platinum produced in malleable form.

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compatible and will not react with other ingredients or irritate bodily tissues. (A fact which also makes platinum the perfect jewellery choice for those with highly sensitive skin).

ORIGINS OF A NOBLE METAL Precious metals and gems have for centuries been used in churches and palaces, worked by smiths and craftspeople for bishops, kings, queens and the nobility, to create precious pieces – from chalices to crowns, crosses to sceptres, headdresses to signet rings – all the statements of wealth and grandeur. Yet platinum has only featured widely in fine jewellery since the start of the 20th century – it was fantastically popular in the manufacture of Art Deco jewellery. Why? It wasn’t only the rarity of platinum in the planet’s crust. Fine commemorative pieces containing platinum have been found from as early as 700 BC, but malleable platinum (extracted from platinum group metals PGMs – which include palladium) is a relatively recent phenomenon. It was not until the French physicist PF Chabaneau who first produced pure platinum, using it to create a chalice for Pope Pius VI. The reason this discovery took so long was that it was a highly scientific and complex task (requiring an aqueous chemical process, only invented around that time) with multiple melting points of the metals to factor in – so they could be removed from the mined raw nuggets to isolate the pure platinum intrinsic within it. So, platinum had to wait patiently for science to unlock it and allow its beauty to shine centuries after that of silver and gold. Even with swathes of 20th-century innovations platinum remains a metal that’s extremely labour intensive – it can take months to produce just a few grams of the precious stuff – but the demand and limited supply has meant significant focus has been trained on recycling existing platinum – with as much as 30% of all platinum today having enjoyed a previous life. Which is great news for the planet.

STATEMENT JEWELLERY Despite the limitations in working with platinum, its name came from Ecuador, where it was named ‘platina’ (little silver) – first referenced in Europe in 1557 by Italian physician, Julius Scaliger. Jewellers of the day were able to hammer small pieces into forgeable jewellery (some of it ground and mixed with melted gold) but at that time it was impossible to melt (requiring 1768 degrees Celsius and a precise knowledge of how to rid it of its companion metals). Even once pure platinum had been isolated, it remained a challenge to work with. Jewellers, used to moulding and tweaking pieces of silver and gold with ease were now learning to embrace the challenges of platinum. They may never have bothered had diamonds not proved clearly more durable than the materials which held them. Silver, the more popular colour metal in the late 19th century, tarnished quickly and has never been especially strong. Jewellers were shoring it up 7


FIT FOR A QUEEN

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Though George VI and his

for her wedding – the

sparkling platinum pins, most

Queen started a tradition at

Boucheron Greville Emerald

notably the Williamson pink

their 1923 wedding to wear

Kokoshnik Tiara in solid

diamond, flame lily, maple leaf,

rings made from Clogau

platinum, pave diamonds and

palm leaf and fern brooches.

Welsh gold, there is many the

cabochon emeralds like large,

Far right The jewel in the

platinum piece, especially

boiled sweeties.

Queen’s crown, if you’ll pardon

tiaras, in the Royal vaults.

Middle Camilla Parker Bowles

the mangled metaphor, is

Top Left The Queen’s

(Duchess of Cornwall) prefers

the platinum Queen Mother’s

engagement ring was

a larger tiara, and the Queen

Crown. It’s a breathtaking

commissioned by her fiancée

has loaned her both the Greville

piece, crafted in 1937 for her

Prince Philip using diamonds

and the Delhi Durbar platinum

coronation, set with 2,800

from his mother’s tiara and set

tiaras, both of which once

diamonds (many recycled from

in platinum by jewellers, Philip

belonged to Mary of Teck.

Queen Victoria’s ‘Regal Circlet’)

Antrobus.

Bottom As platinum became

and featuring the large Turkish

Top Right Princess Eugenie

hugely popular for brooches

diamond gifted by Sultan

chose a distinctive tiara from

it’s no surprise that the Queen’s

Abdula as well as the iconic

her grandmother’s collection

collection includes numerous

105.6 carat Koh-i-Nûr diamond.


with gold to hold the diamonds in place for longer, and it still needed regular cleaning. So, there was a strong imperative for development of a metal more durable, stronger, and less prone to tarnishing. Platinum, then. As these enterprising jewellers laboured to work out ways to connect joins and set stones, the industry enjoyed an unexpected fillip – in 1890 Cartier threw its considerable heft behind platinum as the noble metal of the future when it created an all-platinum luxury range, using the addition of iridium (a process developed in the dentistry industry) to make it brighter, lighter and more workable. Perfect for the intricate diamond-studded pieces that formed the Cartier signature and were decidedly the fashion of their day. A palpable hit, the Garrard collection and the availability of platinum as a rare alternative to gold and natural setting for diamonds made it the very chicest choice for those collecting the finest of fine jewellery. Given how fashionable it was in the early 20th century, it is unsurprising that Garrard was the destination for the then Prince Albert (soon to be George VI) whenever he wished to adorn his wife and daughters. If you’re keen to see some astonishing pieces at closer quarters Sotheby’s is holding a series of exhibitions to mark the Platinum jubilee, including one of tiaras. Go! See! sothebys.com/en/series/the-jubilee-season 9


ON THE WATERFRONT 10


While Bristol’s fortunes have been inextricably linked to ocean trading since the 13th century, it wasn’t until the 1802 addition of a dam and lock to keep the water levels constant that today’s floating harbour was created. By 1972 the Royal Portbury Dock came to nearby Avonmouth, taking the commercial shipping out of the heart of the city and this old harbour fell silent. But not for long. Refurbishment started in earnest in the 1980s and has been carrying on ever since, creating one of the most vibrant districts in the west of England. Step out of The Bristol (above left) and it’s all ships to the left, venues to the right – and you’re bang in the middle of it all… 11


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ARNOLFINI

WATERSHED

Named for Jan van Eyk’s 1484 painting, The Arnolfini Portrait, this arts venue (above) strikes a rather handsome pose right beside the water. Established in 1961, The Arnolfini (above and overleaf ) relocated in 1975 to Bush House, an imposing warehouse built in the 1830s in the ‘Bristol Byzantine’ style – featuring soaring plinths, Doric columns and arched windows. With three floors of galleries, an arty bookshop, a reading room, a cinema/performance space and, naturally, a café/bar, the gallery is free to enter and has hosted a who’s who of everybody who is anybody in the arts. Look at the programme and book yourself in. arnolfini.org.uk

Dubbed ‘one of the most culturally upbeat and lively venues in the UK’ by Mark Kermode (no less!), The Watershed (above right) was one of the earliest adopters of the Harbourside warehouses as arts/culture space, as well as the UK’s first dedicated media centre when it opened all of 40 years ago in 1982. Today the Watershed houses three cinemas, a very cool space for conferences and events, a cracking Café & Bar and the Pervasive Media Studio, making it one of the UK’s cultural power players. We say go, take in a movie, and talk about it over a craft beer and some excellent nibbles. watershed.co.uk


MILLENNIUM SQUARE With water features, a highly polished silver orb (a planetarium, since you ask), vast BBC screens (perfect for sport, jubilee festivities, etc), a fine statue of son of Bristol Archibald Leach (aka Cary Grant), as well as bronzes of lesser-known but unarguably more useful contributors to society, William Penn (late 17thcentury advocate for democracy and religious freedom), William Tyndale (16th-century translator of the bible into English) and Bristol-born pre-Romantic poet and forger, Thomas Chatterton, Millennium Square (right) is also home to We the Curious Science Centre – a must-visit for families and adults alike. wethecurious.org 13


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M-SHED

SS GREAT BRITAIN

There’s a powerful sense of a past still present - right outside M-Shed (above) stand four electric cranes dating from 1953 and the sole surviving Fairbairn Steam Crane, erected in 1878. Still operational and frequently in use, these give so much more than a nod to the harbourside shed’s industrial past. Couple the cranes with the restored steam locomotives that Bristol Harbour Railway runs on many weekends along the Harbour front, and you could have wished yourself back into the echoes of time. Today, M-Shed houses a fascinating history of the city, with first person recollections, photographs and, of course, the industry in action. bristolmuseums.org.uk/m-shed

Another masterpiece from the prolific Isambard Kingdom Brunel, the SS Great Britain (above, right) was built in Bristol, launched in 1843 before vast crowds (and one Prince Albert), the largest passenger steamer ship on earth and the first iron steamer to cross the Atlantic - in just 14 days. After 98 years afloat, the ship became a warehouse and coal store in Argentina before being rescued, patched up and towed back to Bristol for a refurb and restoration into its second life as a rather fabulous museum ship, welcoming hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. ssgreatbritain.org


UNDERFALL YARD Taking its name from the ‘underfall’ sluices, the Yard (right) is an historic boatyard on Spike Island (a strip of land between the floating harbour and the tidal New Cut) featuring many listed former industrial buildings including the original hydraulic Engine House with its soaring octagonal brick and terracotta chimney, the Hydraulic Accumulator and the red brick, slate roofed Pump House – today a visitor’s centre. The historic slipway is undergoing major refurbishment in 2022 but the usual mix of adventure, discovery and, of course, food and drink are awaiting your visit. underfallyard.co.uk

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THE BEAUTIFUL GAME There’s a summer of sport all around the world, but if you overlook Gaelic Games you’re missing out on some of the fastest, most furious, fearless and ancient uses of the bat, the ball, and most parts of the body, anywhere else in the sporting world 16


W

hen half a million people lined the streets of Dublin to welcome home ‘Jack’s Army’ (the plucky, defeated quarter finalists of the 1990 World Cup - local press breathlessly reported that after unexpected draws against England and the Netherlands, and a shaded win on penalties against Romania, for their reckoning with hosts Italy in the quarter finals, Dublin was deserted and ‘even the bingo halls were closed’), it felt to the outside world like a pinnacle for Irish sport. And when just over a million people (about a quarter of the then population), tuned in to watch Ireland skewer the English 43-13 in the 2007 Six Nations tournament (that’s rugby) viewing figures were off the scale. Both achievements were enormous in Irish sport. And yet big GAA matches routinely attract well over a million viewers – often as high as 75% of the viewing public at any one time. As a matter of course. To the uninitiated there are times when for those more used to soccer and rugby, GAA football (also known as ‘Gaelic’ or ‘Gaa’) can look just like an eloquent answer to ` the question ‘what would happen if you gave a ball slightly smaller than a soccer ball to a large group of nine-year-olds and let them make up any rules they liked as they went along’. 17


THE GAELIC So, you can kick the ball. Catch the ball. Block the guy with the ball and shoulder him out of the way before grabbing the ball. Snatch the ball on the kick trajectory from opponent’s boot upward. Knock the ball out of his hands. Leap up and grab the ball in flight. Punch the ball instead of kicking it. Run with the ball (though you can only do that if every three steps you drop it onto your foot, flick it back up and catch it – it’s called soloing). You can kick, chuck or punch the ball into the back of the net for three sweet points. And if you kick (or hit) it over the net between the h-shaped poles – that’s also one vital point. While there are days when one point is all it takes, matches tend to be much higher scoring than soccer (with two ways to score goals that’s unsurprising).

BACK IN TIME Similarly, when it comes to Hurling almost everything goes. While Gaelic football was 18

first recorded as being played only in the mid 17th-century, Hurling has enthralled Ireland for over 3,000 years, but regardless of the vast age-gap both football and hurling are woven deeply into traditional Gaelic culture. We digress. Like football, Hurling is played by teams of 15, all fleet of foot, fierce and ferocious – and the game lasts 70 minutes at county level (60 in lower leagues), with a 15-minute break at half time. For those who like their sport visceral, Hurling is the fastest field sport on earth and marries elements of lacrosse, hockey and baseball into a festival of speed and skill. Players routinely run 8-10 km in the course of a game, often at a breakneck, high velocity pace.

Overleaf Mid action at Croke Park; Gaelic football: Dublin v Kerry, 2019. Above The McGrath Cup Cork vs Tipperary. Right Camogie League

HOW TO HURL

Division 1 - Cork vs Waterford,

Players grip an ash wood stick called a ‘hurley’ and they use it to hit the ball, which is small, hard, made of cork and leather, and named a ‘sliotar’. As with

2020. Women’s Hurling, known as Camogie, is a variant of men’s Hurling and a fastgrowing Gaelic sport.


THE GAA Founded in 1884 in Tipperary, The Gaelic Athletic Association was established to promote Gaelic games as an essential part of the Gaelic culture. Back then, only the gentry could participate in sports but after the GAA was established clubs for ordinary people sprang up all over the country, many still existing today. A community-based organisation, the GAA has over 2,200 clubs all over Ireland, with 1.5 million people spectating and involved in

the football, you score three points when you net the ball and one when you hurl it between the H-poles above. To get the sliotar from one end of the pitch to the other you can hit or kick it along the ground. You can toss it up with your hand then hit it through the air. If the sliotar is on the ground you cannot just pick it up, you must kick it or flick it with the hurley up into your hand, before tossing and striking. You can run with the sliotar provided you balance or bounce it on your hurley as you go (a silky skill). You can pass the sliotar to a teammate by striking it with the hurley or by using your hand like a table tennis bat, tossing and hitting it with your palm.

matches throughout the year. The GAA is based in Croke Park Stadium, which is right next door to The Croke Park. The GAA museum is also located here.Take the tour to find out more. gaa.ie

For those thinking this all sounds like a free-for-all, here are some absolute don’ts. Don’t handle the sliotar on the ground. Don’t throw the sliotar (or the hurley, obviously!). Don’t take more than four steps with sliotar in your hand.

Don’t play the sliotar from hand to hurley more than twice in each spell of possession. When it comes to tackling, shoulder to shoulder is just fine so long as it’s only the opponent currently running with the sliotar – or, if the ball is on the ground, the opponent nearest it. Also, you need to have one foot on the ground, though how you’d shoulder anything out of the way whilst in flight goodness knows. You can also use your hurley to intercept or prevent shots from the opposing side. If you commit a foul (fouls include to thump, push, kick, strike or jump at an opponent, to obstruct a player with hand or arm, to reach from behind a player with or without the sliotar, to charge a player from behind or to deliberately touch a player with your hurley), a ‘puck’ (free hit) is given against you. All fouls are not looked kindly upon and offenders can also be cautioned and sent off. 19


SAFETY SECOND Hurling is a high-octane game where a fierce little ball is whacked with a big solid stick at speed and on the move, so everybody wears protective clothing, right? Wrong! Since 2010 it has been mandatory for players to wear a plastic helmet with faceguard, but that’s it. No shin pads, no body armour, no shoulder protectors. Just the head and not much protection at that. Finally, and fabulously, even the very best players don’t have their names on their jerseys, they just wear the number associated with the position they’re playing in that day (so there’s no Ronaldo always wearing a no. 7, no Michael Jordan (and one David Beckham) always wearing a 23). If you play the position, you wear the number. The team’s the star. The player no more than a cog in the machine.

ALL THE WOMEN Amidst all this eulogising it’s easy to wonder where are all the women? Represented by the LGFA, women’s football today boasts over 190,000 members and a flourishing country-wide league playing in 1400 clubs. The LGFA was founded in 1974 and since taking on its first paid CEO in 1998 has become the fastest growing sport in Ireland. Big matches are screened on TV and local league games are incredibly popular, with Gaelic for Girls, Gaelic for Teens and Gaelic for Mothers and Others bringing women into the sport at all ages, with proper coaching for those that want it. A long-term commercial partnership with Lidl has raised its profile, while the women at the very top are often tempted to move over to Aussie Rules football for a bigger earning season or two. Women’s Hurling has a different name, Camogie, and it is a variant of the Hurling game. Like women’s football, it’s much smaller than the men’s game but growing fast, with over 100,000 women playing it today. The All-Ireland Camogie Championship organises leagues and fixtures, thrashed out by women from 536 20


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THE CUPS While the purpose of every club affiliated to the GAA is to participate, to play and, ideally, to win, the pinnacle of the sport is undoubtedly the All-Ireland Gaelic Finals – where the best clubs in Gaelic Football and Hurling compete for

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the ultimate prize (and have

THE SAM MAGUIRE CUP

THE LIAM MACCARTHY CUP

done since 1889). While the

The winning Gaelic Football Team lifts

A county hurling team that has just risen

winning side will kiss, hug,

aloft the Sam Maguire Cup (known as

to the ultimate of occasions, to win the

dance, pose and parade

The Sam) named eponymously for west

National Hurling Final gets to lift the

with the shining symbol of

Cork-born and London based (as an adult)

Liam MacCarthy Cup. Named for a young

their success they don’t, of

republican, civil servant and Chairman of

Irishman in exile – London-born to Irish

course, get to keep the real

the London County Board of the GAA.

parents – and a Republican, Liam was a

thing. Instead it’s shared

After recruiting Michael Collins to the

successful businessman and, along with

with members of the public

Irish Republican Brotherhood, fleeing the

Sam Maguire, a staunch member of the

that choose to visit the

police in the UK and losing his livelihood

London GAA County Board. Taking no

(excellent) GAA museum

as an Irish civil servant for his beliefs,

chances Liam himself, commissioned

at Croke Park. crokepark.

Maguire died impoverished, but has been

the cup and presented it to the GAA,

ie/tours/gaa-museum/

immortalised in the trophy, a faithful

fashioned from silver in the form of a

exhibitions/sam-maguire

likeness of the Ardagh Chalice.

mether (ancient Irish drinking cup).


clubs all over Ireland, with the national final televised to audiences of over 300,000.

anything to impose upon the opposition and send the crowd home with a warming win in their pockets.

ROAR OF THE CROWD

Left, above Former president of the London Board of the GAA Liam MacCarthy (pictured far right, top) with a London hurling team at the turn of the last century. His Corn Mhic Cárthaigh (Liam MacCarthy Cup) is awarded annually to the winners of the All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship. Above Gaelic football can be intense to watch, and the stakes are especially high when Dublin meets age-old rival Kerry. Here’s Dublin’s header during an Allianz League game at Croke Park

There are few things as thrilling as the roar of a Croke Park crowd, 82,300 as one, bellowing names, singing songs, a wall of sound rising and falling like a Mexican Wave, the crowd a living, breathing thing. BOOM! The air vibrates with every near miss, every feat of skill and derring-do, exploding with every goal. The roofs of The Croke Park and neighbouring buildings feel in mortal danger of being lifted and tossed in the slipstream of a din of decibels as the final whistle blows. Wonderful though it is to be a part of this, it is in the local game that these highs and lows pepper every season in every village and town, as dentists, bank tellers, bus drivers and solicitors stand shoulder to shoulder to see off their neighbouring parish or club, in front of hundreds, even thousands, every voice willing them on –

Immortalised by writers from Joyce to Beckett, Kavanagh to Durcan (read John McAuliffe’s anthology, Everything to Play For), the sentiment in the dying minutes of a hopeless game rescued from the jaws of defeat by a single kick, or hurl, the blood, sweat and tears left upon the field is probably best captured in the Gabriel Fitzmaurice’s Munster Football Final, 1924, Munster Football Final, 1924, “The Munster Final in the Gaelic Grounds, There’s something more important here than war.” To find out more visit the museum and beg, borrow or buy a ticket to one of the GAA finals at Croke Park Stadium. crokepark.ie

23


CITY OF RAINBOWS From QEII’s Platinum Jubilee to the drag queens of DC, we cross the Atlantic, discover the history of Gay Pride and find out what’s happening to celebrate Pride Month in Washington DC

24


“T

he next time someone asks you why LGBT Pride marches exist or why Gay Pride Month is June tell them a bisexual woman named Brenda Howard thought it should be.” So said Brenda Howard, gay rights activists and self-styled ‘Mother of Pride’. She was indeed organiser of the first Pride event – on 28th June 1970 in New York City – though it would probably never have happened but for the Stonewall Riots a year to the day earlier. Stonewall was a curious thing – unplanned and unexpected, it was a spontaneous uprising in response to decades of raids and brutal treatment at the hands of the NYPD’s ‘Public Moral Squad’.

Back in June 1969 the gay bars of New York City (many of them loosely home to, or a safe-ish space for gay and bisexual men and women, forced in numbers to flee family homes and communities because of their orientation) were legally serving alcohol (a right they won only in 1966), but there was no ‘funny business’ allowed, and police would frequently shut them down. Despite being allowed to serve alcohol, many venues were still discriminated against and forced to operate without licenses, which made them even more vulnerable to police raids. Perhaps surprisingly, the gay scene in New York was enabled in its earliest days by La Cosa Nostra, in particular The Genovese Family – who, where the NYPD cried

deviance, saw a business opportunity. Fat Tony (Tony Lauria) bought the Stonewall Inn (located in Christopher Street in the Village) in ’66 and opened it specifically for the gay community – from waifs and strays to drag queens, nervy professionals to offduty tradespeople. Philanthropist Fat Tony was not – the venue was a health & safety nightmare and he hadn’t got a liquor licence, so the bar was a private ‘bottle club’ with patrons having to sign in on arrival and purchase drinks from security at inflated prices. Fat Tony would have been well-aware the police wouldn’t take him to task over the lack of a fire escape or its eye-watering hygiene – if they were there it was to take a 25


moralising stand. In fact, Fat Tony handed over $1000 per week to the NYPD (a payment known as ‘gayola’) to turn a blind eye to any fun and games inside (dancing, kissing etc. were still illegal), and for the privilege of being notified in advance of raids so he could let the police know a good time to visit and minimise his losses.

wave of determination to change things forever. Gay Pride, while commemorating the riots (the first Pride was named ‘Christopher Street Liberation Day’ and celebrated a year to the day after Stonewall) focused on understanding, acceptance and unabashed celebration of and pride in belonging to the Gay community.

For all its faults the Stonewall Inn (and a handful of other venues in the Village) offered a haven for the persecuted and the marginalised, painfully used to the risks of living openly. What happened at 1.20am, 28 June, 1969, was untypical in extremis. The police went through the usual motions of lining patrons up to check their IDs and to march off any men dressed as women, who were always arrested, but this time the men in drag refused to leave the building. And the remainder, who would normally scarper as soon as the boys in blue arrived, hovvered around outside – to form a crowd that grew from a hundred or so to something approaching 2,000 people. Chaos ensued with the police first arresting mafiosi and bar staff before getting into tussles with drag queens. In the words of author Edmund White, who was passing at the time, “Everyone’s restless, angry and high-spirited. No one has a slogan, but something’s brewing”.

TAKE PRIDE

And, like the proverbial straw that broke the camel’s back, the patrons of Stonewall and the many passers-by and locals that joined them together sent a message to law enforcement and other LGBTQ+ people around the world that enough was enough.

A GLOBAL RESISTANCE Although it was (incredibly) to be another 11 years until homosexuality was decriminalised in New York City (December 18, 1980, to be precise), after Stonewall the global community focused on organising an effective global resistance, advocating for a better future, and refusing to let anything like that happen again. The Gay Liberation Front and the Gay Activists Alliance took the fight to opinion formers and lawmakers, triggering a global explosion of gay rights activism that united the many groups already existing into a 26

Pride in 2022 is a million miles away from the original – for a start it’ has turned from a march into something closer to a month. Global numbers are hard to come by but today Pride is marked in most major cities and celebrated by tens of millions of people around the world. New York Pride remains the largest, with around five million taking to the streets, while San Paolo is also pretty epic, the largest event in South America it routinely attracts over four million folks. Digitally, rainbows absolutely rule the airwaves with every shade of hashtag cascading the Twittersphere and exploding all over the Metas throughout Pride season – a huge, fabulous celebration of togetherness that would feel something like a fever dream to anyone time travelling from the Village back in June 1969.

IN THE GAYBOURHOOD The numbers that celebrate Pride today warm gay hearts around the world, as well as those of friends and anyone against discrimination in all its forms – and we’re here to celebrate Gay Pride month in Washington DC. From The Dupont Circle (which we were delighted to see included in the list of top gay-friendly Washington hotels in queerintheworld. com) we and our diverse staff will all be raising many a glass to the celebrations, hosting guests here for the 10-days of Capital Pride proper, and pointing those who want to explore the city in the direction of the nightlife in and around the Dupont Circle (often dubbed Washington’s ‘Gaybourhood’).

Fifty years of Gay Pride as it played out in London. From early GLF protests in 1971 through years of pageant and display to a plea to reclaim its political integrity in 2021


1972

1971

1985

2002

2016

1984

1972

1991

2005

2017

1998

2013

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2021


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DC PRIDE – 3-12 JUNE Capital Pride starts with business and winds up with the mother of all marches, sandwiching between them some of the planet’s most epic parties and performances from as diverse a line-up as DNCE (with Joe Jonas) and Willow Pill (winner of last years’ Drag Race). Keep a close eye on the pride committee’s website for more details as they’re released – but here’s the confirmed running order so far for 2022… JUNE 3 – PRIDE HONORS Kind of the

Oscars for activists, celebrating the contributions of those who work tirelessly helping, supporting, advocating for and reaching out into the community to everybody that needs it. The work can be tough at times, but that doesn’t mean we can’t have some fun celebrating it. JUNE 6 – OUTSPOKEN A ‘Women’s spoken word and night of other queer expressions’ might be accurate but it sells this celebration of the spoken word a little short as it’s a night when we open the mic not just to professional spoken word performers but also to a heavenly host of diverse voices, all saying what needs to be said. JUNE 10 – RIOT! Not literally but this

is the Capital Pride Official Opening Party – some days into the 10 marked for celebration – and in all honesty, it will be a riot. Dress to express yourself, enjoy the best of our local, national and global performance artists and don’t forget to book ahead or (and possibly even if you’re Billy Porter, Wanda Sykes, Kristen Stewart or the full cast of Queer Eye) you’re not getting in. JUNE 11 – PRIDE BLOCK PARTY Fringing

the Block Party stage is the only place to be in Washington DC with a roll call of epic performers and tasty bites from food trucks, pop-ups and, for over 21s, the beer garden. What better way to get properly ready for the parade. JUNE 11 – PRIDE PARADE (15-19:30)

This is what Pride is all about – when hundreds of thousands come together to stand and be counted while they march,

sing, dance and make some noise for community pride. It’s always beautiful, usually bathed in sunshine and it will be beamed all over the world. Get your ticket ahead of time. JUNE 11 – REMIX The Official Capital Pride Saturday Party, 9pm. As the name suggests this is where everyone gets to let their hair down, ease off those marching shoes and hit all four dance floors to the ‘Sound of DC’. Hosted at the City Winery, and serving food as well as drink, the fun goes on until 3am and tickets run out. JUNE 12 – PRIDE FESTIVAL. Pennsylvania

Avenue is open for business as carnival kings and dancing queens unite to mix with locals in a free festival of all things fabulous. With three stages for a full day of performances (12 noon to 10pm), plus food, drink and advocacy (yep, 300 exhibitors are present to keep the conversation going) and did we mention that it’s absolutely free?? If you’re at a loss as to what else to do after all this, firstly we salute your social stamina, and we’ll pause for applause for that. Secondly, check out the panoramic views and cool interior of our Doyle Bar or enjoy the contemporary global menu at The Pembroke (try the legendary terrace). Thirdly, have a chat with our concierge for some great tips for local nightlife. Or, fourthly, check out queerintheworld. com for their definitive list of DC’s most LGBTQ+ friendly restaurants, bars and nightlife. Wherever you go, we’ll be raising a glass in spirit if not in person and remembering, as we always do at this time of year, our favourite Lady Gaga quote, “Baby, I was born this way”. For further information on Capital Pride 2022: capitalpride.org

THE PRIDE PACKAGE Choose our Pride Package when you book a room at The Dupont Circle and we’ll welcome you with a cocktail for two, an Afternoon Tea box (sweet and savoury) to take to the parade and a $25 per night donation to Whitman Walker Health, a DC based organisation offering health services to the LGBTQ+ community, including HIV care. 29


PRIDE OF PLACE DC isn’t the only place to celebrate - you can go just about anywhere in the world and enjoy the Pride. To find the best places, we recommend asking the experts – and the Nomadic boys (nomadicboys.com/10best-gay-pride-events-in-the-world) have very kindly reviewed their top 10 Prides on the planet. Read. Enjoy. Maybe even go! If you’re staying closer to home, other Doyle Collection destinations all put on a pretty good show.

30

BRISTOL PRIDE, 25 JUNE – 10 JULY

CORK PRIDE, 23-31 JULY

One of the UK’s biggest and best pride events, it’s a two-week draw of comedy, drag, film and community activism, bringing tens of thousands to the city and culminating in Pride Day on The Downs featuring multiple stages and a festival vibe with acts galore anchored by Carly Rae Jepsen and winding up with an after-party headlined by Ana Matronic at the O2. Read all about it and get booking at bristolpride.co.uk

More of a bijou event and run entirely by volunteers, Cork Pride is always the culmination of a year of activism, and if you like your Pride small but joyous (see above), it’s the one for you. While the programme is unreleased when we went to press you can find out what’s happening online or simply book into The River Lee (it’s the perfect time of year for cocktails on the River Club Terrace) and check nearer the time. corkpride.com


DUBLIN PRIDE, 22-26 JUNE

LONDON PRIDE, 2 JULY

Everyone’s jumping on the Dublin bandwagon with sponsors galore supporting the gay community and thousands of people flocking to the capital for the celebrations. Pride events go on all year round but if you’re wanting to parade, enjoy the festival vibe in Pride Village (Merrion Square) and dance to years&years at the Mother’s Pride opening party, you’ll be nice and close by staying at The Westbury. dublinpride.ie

There are events all over London’s vibrant and diverse gay scene to commemorate pride – but the pride committee basically organises the parade and marchers later de-camp to some of the world’s best gay clubs and bars to party the night away, all a stone’s throw from each other and mainly located in Soho. 2022 is the 50th anniversary of London’s first Pride so organisers are celebrating by going back to the original route right through the centre

of town. The hugely popular Pride’s Got Talent is on (up and down the country) as per usual (though for the talented among you auditions are over), but otherwise get ready for quite the crowd, it’s more than likely you’ll be celebrating diversity with around 1.5 million others. Find parade and full event details at prideinlondon.org, then get Googling for everything else. 31


VIEW FROM THE TOP We may be biased but if you asked us to name the best view over DC during Pride it would have to be from the Penthouse Suite at The Dupont Circle. But then again it has to offer some of the best views over Washington at any time of year

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33


Events & Happenings Step out of your hotel and into our pick of this month’s most captivating events

The Bloomsbury MUCH ADO ‘Tis the season of reinterpretation at the Globe this summer. See Much Ado About Nothing relocated to 1945 Italy, Julius Caesar reimagined in a modern political context, and Henry VIII recast from a female perspective, all in the splendidly historic embrace of the great wooden ‘O’. Summer season at Shakespeare’s Globe - Much Ado, Julius Caesar, Henry VIII April-October shakespearesglobe.com GOING UNDERGROUND There’s more to the tube than the graphic meanderings punctuating Harry Beck’s famous map. The network’s disused stations and forgotten lines unlock a treasure trove of hidden history - including a wartime aircraft factory! Now opened to the public as part of a special London Transport Museum exhibition, these

Top The Climate Crisis

secret subterranean spaces

powerfully explored at The

might seem scary, but they

Barbican Centre.

really must be seen.

Left Explore long forgotten

Hidden London: The Exhibition

underground stations and

London Transport Museum

ephemera at the Hidden London

Until 2023

exhibition at The London

ltmuseum.co.uk

Transport Museum. Top right Raphael’s portrait of

NO PLANET B

the rich banker, “Bindo Altoviti”

Without activism and legislation

(c. 1515) from the Raphael

we cannot hope to address the

exhibition at The National

climate crisis, but in winning

Gallery, London.

hearts and minds art is no less

Right: Join the queue for

vital, as this major Barbican

The Wimbledon Tennis

exhibition so eloquently

Championships - only in

shows. Featuring 18 works

England...!

from 12 countries, including bio-fabricated fashion, a sonic

34


waterfall and insights into

SET YOUR WATCHES

Hyde Park, as it happens…

open house program of free

queer ecology, this collection

Where in the world could you

British Summer Time festival

activities and entertainment in

of pioneering pieces is not to

see Elton John one weekend,

brings music’s biggest names

the weeks between.

be missed.

Adele the next, and Duran

to the capital for three

British Summer Time Festival

Our Time On Earth

Duran the weekend after that?

consecutive weekends, with an

Hyde Park

The Barbican

24th June to 10th July

May to August

royalparks.org.uk

barbican.org.uk FIT FOR A QUEEN RENAISSANCE MAN

It’s a historic year for

In a career spanning just 20

Britain as Queen Elizabeth

years, Raffaello Sanzio became

II celebrates her Platinum

a High Renanissance maestro,

Jubilee. What better way to

known for his Vatican frescos,

mark the occasion than with

his Madonnas, portraits of

a visit to one of the world’s

the great and good and his

last remaining working royal

architecture. This National

palaces (if the flag is raised

Gallery exhibition is one of

the Queen is home)? See lavish

the first to explore Raphael’s

State Rooms, treasures of the

complete career, showcasing

Royal Collection, and a special

his lesser-known architectural

display marking 70 years.

and poetic works as well as

Buckingham Palace Tour:

many of his great paintings

Summer Opening 2022

and drawings.

From 22nd July

The Credit Suisse Exhibition:

rct.uk/visit/buckingham-palace

Raphael The National Gallery

BEAUTY IN BLOOM

Until 31st July

The historic Hampton Court

nationalgallery.org.uk

Palace hosts the world’s largest flower show once again this summer. Explore the

The Kensington

joys of wellness, mindfulness and inclusivity in the show’s

GAME, SET, MATCH Perfectly mown courts, clouds of chalk, the ripest strawberries, tennis whites, livery of purple and green: few sporting events have a more iconic visual language than Wimbledon. It may seem exclusive, but in fact the championship is Open in more than name – and even premium tickets are made available on the day for those willing to spend a time in the famous queue! 2022 Wimbledon Championships All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club 27th June to 10th July wimbledon.com

35


Palace. West Side Story in

the chance to discover them.

NURTURE NATURE

Wimbledon Park. Labyrinth

London Square Open Gardens

With 50 events packed into a

centrepiece garden, discover

at Westminster Abbey. These

Weekend, London

single week, from walks and

the delights of the Food Zone

are just some of the pleasingly

11th & 12th June

talks to workshops and digital

and River Cottage Market

incongruous movie-going

londongardenstrust.org

events, this year’s Festival

Garden, and get your dancing

of Nature has something for

shoes on for Flowers After

every nature lover. The ‘Action

Hours as the sun goes down.

Day’ that opens the festival

RHS Hampton Court Palace

makes clear its core intention:

Garden Festival

encouraging participants to

Hampton Court Palace

take positive actions in aid of

4th-9th July

local wildlife and ecosystems.

rhs.org.uk

Festival of Nature 2022 Bristol Natural History Consortium

The Marylebone

10th-18th June bnhc.org.uk/festival-of-nature

CAN YOU KICK IT? After being postponed last

HEART OF THE CITY

year, this summer’s Women’s

120 years since the construction

Euro is shaping up to be quite

of the harbour was first

the tournament, with stadiums

proposed, the city celebrates

up and down the country

its central feature with the 50th

expecting record crowds.

annual Bristol Harbour Festival.

Can the Dutch repeat their

The program is so varied that

unexpected victory of 2017?

we can’t really tell you what

Will Germany return to winning

to expect - but you’ll find

ways? Or perhaps England’s

many a show, stall and street

own Lionesses will take the

performance to surprise and

glory in front of home crowds?

delight.

It’s all to play for.

Bristol Harbour Festival

UEFA Women’s Euro 2022

Various venues

Brentford Community Stadium

15th-17th July

& Wembley Stadium 6th-31st July

experiences that The Luna

uefa.com/womenseuro

Cinema will be putting on in

bristolharbourfestival.co.uk THE PLAY’S THE THING

London’s outdoor spaces this

LIGHT IN THE DARKNESS

There’s always something rich,

THANK YOU FOR THE MUSIC

summer. Go for the film, stay

A poignant reflection on the

strange, funny and fabulous

Here we go again… ABBA are

for a one-of-a-kind night out!

legacy of colonialism, installed

for all ages on at the Tobacco

back, as you’ve never seen

The Luna Cinema

in the one-time home of a slave-

Factory Theatre. Featuring

them before. A ten-piece

Various Central London

owning sugar trader, Lebohang

productions from small theatre

band, a custom-built arena in

Locations

Keganye’s contribution to

groups to big name stand-

London’s Olympic Park, and

Throughout July

Bristol Photo Festival is

ups, the theatre comes with a

the tech wizardry of famed

thelunacinema.com

both meditative and incisive.

fabulous arts centre, bar and

Keganye plays with motifs of

restaurant attached. Go! See!

special effects pioneers ILM

36

Bristol

combine to transform those

SECRET GARDEN

light and sound paying homage

Plays, plays, plays!

well-loved hits into something

For one weekend only, discover

to southern African practices of

Throughout June & July

completely different.

the secrets of over 100 of

praise-singing.

tobaccofactorytheatres.com

ABBA Voyage

London’s most unique gardens,

Lebohang Kganye: ‘Dipina tsa

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

courtyards and rooftop spaces.

Kganya’: Leave the light when

May to December

These sites of beauty, usually

you leave for good

abbavoyage.com

concealed behind high walls or

Georgian House Museum

The Westbury

glimpsed through the gaps in a

Until December

TROPICAL STORM

MOVIES BY MOONLIGHT

fence are closed to the public

bristolmuseums.org.uk/

Newly established in Ireland

Ghostbusters at Kensington

most of the time - don’t miss

georgian-house-museum

after delighting audiences in


Australia, Fair Dinkum Theatre is

Anne Yeats: The Everyday

PAIN OF THE PAST

the most horrific events in

a company dedicated to putting

Fantastic

There’s no easy way to talk

European history. Nonetheless,

on honest, fun and thought-

National Gallery of Ireland

about the Irish Potato Famine,

the stories of people who

provoking productions – and I

Until 9th October

also known as The Great

suffered through it must

Poured The Tea fits the bill. In

nationalgallery.ie

Hunger - it remains one of

be told, and this accessible

the midst of the Irish Banking crisis, two caterers find that not everything is as it seems on their paid-for holiday… I Poured The Tea Smock Alley Theatre 4th-16th July smockalley.com FOODIE HEAVEN What kind of foodie are you? The let’s-get-skilledup masterclass-goer? The boutique-browsing ingredientseeker? Or the slow-andsteady sit-and-savour-it type? However you express your passion for food, Dublin’s summertime foodie haven has something to love. Taste of Dublin Iveagh Gardens 16th-19th July tasteofdublin.ie/about THE OTHER YEATS One of the great Irish artists of the twentieth century, Anne Yeats made her name designing sets at the famed

exhibition at Stephen’s Green

Abbey Theatre, before going

Shopping Centre serves as

on to be involved in founding

a crucial reminder of that

Irish arts council Aosdána and

history and its continued

Graphic Studio Dublin during

relevance in Ireland today.

a prolific career as a painter.

Irish Famine Exhibition

Throughout, she shared her

Stephen’s Green Shopping

father’s gift for reflecting the

Centre

magical in the mundane.

From 1st June theirishpotatofamine.com

Left Hunting for Wildlife at

The Croke Park

Bristol’s Festival of Nature. Right, top Fair Dinkum’s black

GAELIC GLORY

comedy ‘IPoured the Tea’ plays

Truly the home of Irish sport,

at the atmospheric Smock Alley

Croke Park stadium is a beacon

Theatre, Dublin.

to every competitor across the

Right below

emerald isle. Climactic playoffs

Anne Yeats exhibition at

and finals games across

Dublin’s National Gallery.

multiple Gaelic sports are

37


held there every summer, with

authors, tech enthusiasts

atmosphere and activities for all

WORDS TO LIVE BY

2022 highlights including the

- makers of all kinds, from

ages, there’s much to enjoy.

Now in its 12th year, the

All-Ireland Senior Hurling and

all ages and backgrounds,

Dublin Maker

Dalkey Book Festival has built

Football Championship finals on

come together for this free

Merrion Square

a reputation for surprising

back-to-back weekends in July.

community event. The spirit

23rd July

programming, curated to

Croke Park Stadium

of invention with a carnival

dublinmaker.ie

facilitate conversation and

Playoffs and finals throughout

debate. With last year’s speaker

June & July

line-up as diverse as Isabel

crokepark.ie

Allende, The Edge and Senator Bernie Sanders, expect the

MEMORIES OF A NATION

unexpected if you take the

In January 1922, the British

short trip south to Dalkey in

Viceroy handed over control

search of literary stimulation

of Dublin castle and the

this June.

government of Ireland to the

Dalkey Book Festival

new provisional administration,

Various Dalkey locations

in an event described as “the

16th-19th June

most significant in Irish history

dalkeybookfestival.org

for hundreds of years”. A century later, the Gate Theatre are reviving Sebastian Barry’s seminal play about a senior

The Dupont Circle

police officer who was present that historic day.

GRILLS AND THRILLS

The Steward of Christendom

While some dispute its claim to

Gate Theatre

be ‘the official start of summer’,

From 20th July

there’s no denying that DC’s

gatetheatre.ie

Giant Barbeque Battle, which celebrates its 30th year in 2022,

LIGHTBULB MOMENT

is one of the largest, most lip-

Crafters, inventors, hobbyists,

smacking food festivals in the

engineers, artists, students,

US.

Sample

brisket,

ribs

or

chicken grilled by the best, with performers the side-show down historic Pennsylvania Avenue. 30th Annual DC Giant Barbeque Battle Pennsylvania Avenue 25th & 26th June bbqindc.com

Top The very best place to spend the Glorious Fourth has to be Washington DC. Left Over 300 boats sail from the harbour in Cork Week. Right Cork’s Midsummer Festival is a rich mix of everything from slick synth to simple folk served with plenty of Irish fare and friendly banter.

38


WHAT COURAGE IS

A Capitol Fourth on the big

this exhibition of historic and

its multidisciplinary midsummer

There are some stories that

screens, stay out late for

contemporary work shows.

arts festival, as sonic, visual and

bear retelling, again and again;

fabulous fireworks, and join

Botanica: The Art of Plants

theatrical works synthesise into

human truths that lodge

the crowds on the steps of

Crawford Art Gallery

an experience that is different

themselves in the minds of

the National Archives to see

Throughout June & July

from every angle, yet memorable

generation after generation.

George and Martha Washington

crawfordartgallery.ie

to every eye, and ear.

LIVING TRADITION

re-tread historic moments. If

SAIL AWAY

Cork Midsummer Festival

Few other occasions are so rich

you’re in the capital for one day

Whether you’re a keen seafarer

15th-26th June

in meaning as the Smithsonian’s

this year, make it the 4th.

or a lounging landlubber, there’s

corkmidsummer.com

legendary Folklife Festival. In

Fourth of July Celebrations

something for everyone to

55 years it has drawn more than

Various locations

enjoy during Cork Week. With

A MARY OLD TIME

23,000 artists, performers,

washington.org/visit-dc/

over 300 boats in attendance

The best comedy comes from

craftspeople and storytellers to

ways-celebrate-independence-

to mark the tricentennial of the

the simplest premise: mistaken

the National Mall, representing

day-washington-dc

Royal Cork Yacht Club, the view

identity, a misplaced banana

traditions from over 90

from Cork harbour is sure to be

skin, or, in this case, three main

countries from many native and

quite the spectacle.

characters with the same name.

Cork Week in Cork Harbour

Mary, Mary and Mary are saying

11th-15th July

their goodbyes after ten years

corkweek.ie

in the same nursing home

Harper Lee’s classic novel is one such rare tale, and Aaron Sorkin’s adaptation perfectly captures that magic on stage. Essential Viewing. To Kill A Mockingbird Kennedy Center Opera House 12th June to 10th July kennedy-center.org STEP TO THE BEAT “They took away their drums, but they could not stop the beat.” Inspired by the Stono slave rebellion of 1739, AfricanAmerican dance troupe Step Afrika! bring that spirit of a movement that could not be stopped to audiences with their new show Drumfolk. Immersive, educational and deeply compelling, this performance will get feet moving. Drumfolk - Step Afrika! Arena Stage Until 26th June arenastage.org

indigenous backgrounds.

The River Lee

Smithsonian Folklife Festival National Mall

FLOWER POWER

End June/Early July

Flowers are so much more than

festival.si.edu

a riot of colour in a handsome

MIDSUMMER MAGIC

occasion in style - but, as they all

vase. A source of healing, a

There’s a kind of alchemy that

experience memory loss, things

THE GLORIOUS FOURTH

site of encoded meaning, a

happens in a city when its

don’t go quite according to plan…

The Fourth of July means so

muse and companion, even a

artists and performers come

Three Hail Mary’s

much to so many – and it’s

reminder of historic violence

together to fill everyday spaces

Everyman Theatre

all celebrated in DC this year.

- plants can be all these

with extraordinary work. Cork

2nd-3rd July

Watch star-studded concert,

things and more in art, as

is transformed each June by

everymancork.com

together. They intend to mark the

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24 HOURS TO CELEBRATE THE QUEEN’S PLATINUM JUBILEE

The Platinum Jubilee Pageant features more than 6,500 performers from all 54 countries of the Commonwealth, plus there’s a jousting tournament at Hampton Court and all kinds of fun down in Greenwich, but on June 3rd we’re staying close-ish to home for a quintessentially British day out. 8:30 JUNE 3RD 2022 It may feel like you’ve only just closed your eyes

PICCADILLY CIRCUS LIGHTS 1952

from the night before (it’s easily done in our divinely comfortable beds at The Marylebone) but breakfast

THEN

calls and an answer is required.

“Always from the first time he went there to see Eros and the lights, that

It’s not every year you get to attend a special Zoobilee

circus have a magnet for him, that circus represent life.” Sam Selvon’s

but the Queen is Royal Patron of London Zoo and

immigrant character, Galahad Esquire saw the ‘London Lights’ as the flame

they’re celebrating in style with exhibitions, a teddy

to his moth and the iconic signs were a phenomenon back in 1952. Originally

bears picnic, story time sessions and all manner of

spelling out in neon big brands like Bovril, Schweppes, Wrigleys and

animal fun. zsl.org

10:00

Guinness and later, most famously, Coca Cola, bathed in their fluorescent glow couples met under Eros (actually, it’s a statue of his brother Anteros,

13:00

but that’s a story for another day) for romantic assignations intensified with

Hail a black cab to “North Audley Street, please”. It’s

a spirit of New York glamour. Originally installed in 1908, the early lights

Mayfair so the street party is fancy and the theme is

were simply electric bulbs and the first ad for Perrier sparkling water.

‘Go Fly a Kite’, a nod to Mary Poppins and the classic,

& NOW

bunting bedecked British summer fete.

The ‘London Lights’ had only been switched off during WWII blackouts

15:00

and to mark Winston Churchill’s and Princess Diana’s funerals – at least

If you can tear yourself away there’s more fun to be

until 2017 when crowds joined a countdown to a great switch-off for

had at Seven Dials, with street performers, flower

the installation of a new single screen. In a far cry from the fizzing neon

crown making, live music, wine tastings and burlesque

of yesteryear this screen is designed to show ads switching spaces for

masterclasses. sevendials.co.uk

mayfairldn.com

equal emphasis – and taking over the full screen in rotation. Sensors scan interaction and share eyeballing data with advertisers, while ads adapt

18:00

to reflect conditions and viewers – so, for instance, on a rainy day an ad

Time for Superblooms – head to the Tower of London

might switch to a 4x4 from a convertible, and a Porsche ad might appear

where over 20 million wildflower seeds have been

only when a car worth £50k plus drives by. Big brother anybody?

planted. It’s ticketed, so book ahead to wander the 13th-century moat in a smallish group. hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london 19:30 Your sliding doors moment – take a boat from Tower Pier to the Southbank, or walk (eating en route we like Caravan Bankside) to the Royal Festival Hall (southbankcentre.co.uk) to join the other 18+ “night owls, insurgents and unpardonables” at an Alternative

Royal

Command

Performance

from

the LGBTQI+ Duckie Collective. Carriages at 2am. caravanrestaurants.co.uk/bankside.php. Alternatively, it’s home for a delicious light supper at the 108 Brasserie or some in-room dining before well-earned rest. 108brasserie.com

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PICCADILLY CIRCUS LIGHTS 2022