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September 2010

Vintage Van Ella

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TYLE ssue

Yesteryear Mixes Well Today

Fashion FURY

Retailer’s Fall Favorites

ABBA

Sizzles

@ The St. Louis Symphony

Laupp & Leather Lifestyle or Art to Wear

This issue is dedicated to

Complimentary Copy


BLU_Vital Voice_Sept IFC:Layout 1

8/16/10

2:48 PM

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Volume 11, Issue 9 Index Darin Slyman – Publisher/Editor vitalvoicemag@gmail.com Tess Tulley – Director of Business Affairs tesstulley@thevitalvoice.com Jeff Kapfer – Art Director design@thevitalvoice.com Colin Murphy – Senior Writer/Web Editor colin_murphy@sbcglobal.net R. Lee Bond – Associate Editor rleebond.vitalvoice@gmail.com Drew Baumgartner – Marketing/Vital VISION Dbaumgartner05@gmail.com Kristen Goodman – Marketing / Vital VOICE kristengoodman@ymail.com Dieta Pepsi – On Air Hostess / Vital VISION dietapepsi@gmail.com

Laupp & Leather The Fashion of ABBA Fashion Fury Pageantry Shines Night Crawlers Scene & Styling Vintage Van Ella Non-profit of the Month

Contributors Colin Murphy – Writer Matt Jamieson – Writer Sarah Fentem – Writer Jen Everett – Photography Richard Nichols – Photography Robert L.Brown – Photography Colin Murphy – Photography Paul Gibson – Art Direction Tess Tulley – Art Direction Elise Chi – Graphic Design Special Thanks Suzy Gorman Retro 101 Lola Van Ella Cheap TRX Byrd Moris Fashions Foam Coffee and Beer Rachel Hadfield Brett Ballard Michael Drummond ADVISORY BOARD William A. Donius Thom Halter Colin Murphy Jay Perez Pam Schneider Kellie Trivers Sharon Tucci

ONLINE thevitalvoice.com facebook.com/VitalVOICE twitter.com/VitalVOICEmag youtube.com/TheVitalVISION ADVERTISING Tesstulley@thevitalvoice.com 314.256.1196 (office) CONTACT Vital VOICE Magazine 4579 Laclede Avenue #268 Saint Louis, MO 63108 VitalVOICEmag@gmail.com 314.256.1196

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Dear

Friends, Lights, camera, fashion and passion—this month’s style issue has been a long time coming. As a stylist and designer, fashion has played an important role in my life. My first thought was… What is LGBT style? Once upon a time, most would say, “boys would be girls and girls would be boys”, but is that the truth in this new decade? How does one define LGBT style? Well… you don’t.

Our community has always been leaders in the style world. I remember living in Paris, France where I was surrounded by LGBTers who were in positions that changed and directed global fashion. Even in our own market, we currently have two designers, Michael Drummond and A.J. Thouvenot who are on the reality show PROJECT RUNWAY. Indeed, style & fashion are growing each and every year led by the LGBT community. I invite you to explore YOUR style. Cheers,

Darin Slyman Publisher

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P

Rachel McCalla– arty Perfect and

P.U.R.E.* Genius: People Using Renewable Energy are those making smart decisions about the future by supporting renewable energy – like local wind power. This helps keep Missouri’s air clean, strengthen the local economy and protect natural resources for future generations. That’s why Rachel McCalla enrolled her weddings, events, and floral design business, “Lucky You Productions,” in AMERENUE PURE POWER® program. Pure Power makes it easy for Rachel to support renewable energy sources right here in Missouri... and easy for her to recommend it to her clients.

“I care about the environment. Almost every time Lucky You stages an event, we use electricity. The generation of that power is the largest source of carbon dioxide emissions today,” says McCalla. “I can do all sorts of things to make an event sustainable – like using real china vs. paper plates or locally raised flowers in centerpieces – but offsetting the electricity through Pure Power is the easiest and most effective way to help an event move closer to true carbon neutrality.” P.U.R.E.* Genius – that’s Rachel, Pure Power and a Lucky You event. GO GREEN! Check the PURE POWER box on your monthly power bill or call 1-866-665-PURE (7873) to start supporting clean energy. To sign up online or learn more about Pure Power, visit

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EVERY FAIRY NEEDS A

GOOD TALE. Get ready for a party in the streets! The fifth annual Grovefest is gearing up to show St. Louis what the Manchester Strip has to offer. The all-day street festival will take place between four pm and midnight, featuring two dance stages and appearances by the St. Louis Zombie Squad, the Arch Rivals and many more. “We want to show St. Louis that The Grove can contend with any other neighborhood here.” said Alexis Tucci, event coordinator for MAC Meetings and Events. In addition to the events outside, many of the bars and restaurants will be featuring no cover, or specials on food and drinks the Saturday of Grovefest.

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1 Out of 10 Ain’t Bad!

Laupp and

Leather Written by Colin Murphy. Photography by Jen Everett

Whether it constitutes a lifestyle or is your weekend wear at the bars, leather has played an important role in the LGBT community since Marlon Brando and James Dean transfixed their generation in the 1950s. Still it wasn’t until the early 1970s that an organized leather community would take shape with the appearance of Levi/ Leather and Motorcycle Clubs in cities across the country. St. Louis has the largest leather community in Missouri and I remember being introduced to it early on. In the late 1980s The Gateway Saloon was home to Gateway MC and shared the same building with Nites II, a dance club on Vandeventer. A common entry way was all that separated the bars, so for my generation, it was common to filter between the two. I met a great group of guys at Gateway. I loved that bar—complete with a motorcycle hanging from the ceiling. Local leather designer Jerry Miller of Jerry’s Wearable Art has been creating regularly since he cut his teeth at a local leather shop here in the 1990s. Miller is best known for his elaborate masks but is equally at ease designing everything from harnesses and cod pieces to chaps. “I use Grade-A leather,” said Miller. “I may have to wait months to get it, but when it comes in, I buy every bit of it up. I don’t buy the stuff that’s brown all the way through except for a top coat of black on it—that’s cheap leather. You want black all the way through.” One of Miller’s regular customers for the past five years is Mr. Missouri Leather (MML) 2010, Terry Laupp. “I basically give him free reign as to what he wants to do,” explained Laupp. “I kind of come in with a bunch of ideas and we narrow it down by the amount of time we have to create. He basically does the majority of leather work for the entire leather community—the custom pieces.”


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Laupp has worn Miller’s creations at contests and events ranging from MML and Mr. Midwest Leather to Cleveland Leather Awareness Week (CLAW) and International Mr. Leather (IML). And both men agree—fit is everything. “You don’t want your chap crotch riding around your knee level—you want it where it’s supposed to be,” offered Miller. “Don’t buy off the rack if you are going to enter any competitions.”

COMPETITION

The winner of Gateway MC’s MML Contest, which celebrates its 30-anniversary next year, qualifies to compete at IML. Contestants compete in a variety of categories including Cruisewear, Physique, and Image in Leather. Accordingly, Laupp prepared for IML by studying leather history and of course, hitting the gym and dieting. “The key motivator was I was going to have to stand up on stage in a jock strap in front of 5,000 people,” Laupp quipped. “I went up there to promote myself; to show the judges who I was and to represent the men of Missouri as best I could,” he continued. “I’m pleased with how I performed.” While Laupp did not make the final night’s top-20 out of 52-contestants from nine countries (he stumbled on an onstage question) he took comfort in the support he received after the gaffe. “At that point I knew that my journey through IML was going to be much more about the friendships I made,” said Laupp. “Because I’ve made life-long friendships through brotherhood and camaraderie.”

BALLOON BRIGADE

Laupp and his partner Chad Carroll are the founders of the St. Louis Balloon Brigade which has taken St. Louis Pridefest by storm these past two years. The colorful body sprays were created on a whim three years ago. “Imitation is the highest form of flattery and we saw a picture of something that was done in San Francisco,” Laupp explained. “So we decided we would do that on a cruise and during 19foot high seas and me being sea-sick we did two clusters—and we stopped the party for 30-minutes.” Laupp and Carroll were self-taught so it took them four hours to create that first look. But by the time the Brigade made their Pridefest debut in 2009 with six members, they had streamlined the process, taking just 6-hours to inflateand assemble 1200 balloons. This year 18-Brigade members spanned the Pride Parade boasting some 4,000 balloons. The group pays for materials through donations and local sponsors and has partnered with Aspen Spa to use their air compressor, thus tying their 2009 set up time. Laupp and Carroll’s creation has become a staple at community events such as The Susan Komen Race, Gateway Gay Rodeo, and Growing American Youth Prom. Indeed with each appearance interest and participation grows. “We get people who say they’re interested and then at the last minute think, no—I’m not in shape, I won’t look good that way,” said Carroll. “But we try to convince them that once you put it on it’s not about you anymore.” Laupp appreciates the opportunity that being Mr. Missouri Leather has given him in the community. He has participated and emceed at myriad community events. Both he and Carroll fundraise regularly for PAWS in the leather community and with The Balloon Brigade.

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Advertise with Contact tesstulley@thevitalvoice.com 314.256.1196


The Fashion of Written by Matt Jamieson Brighton, United Kingdom. April 6, 1974. The masses cheer as four young Swedes--Agnetha Lyngstad, Björn Ulvaeus, Benny Andersson and Anni-Frid (Frida) Fältskog, better known as ABBA, win the Eurovision Song Contest with their delightfully catchy song “Waterloo.” After winning the contest, ABBA’s career took off like a rocket, and they managed to stay popular throughout the 70s and into the 80s. Now, 36 years after their initial win at Eurovision, renowned ABBA tribute band Arrival is making its way to St. Louis. Powell Symphony Hall will play host to the band on September 11, 2010, for a concert featuring ABBA’s hit songs, and a spectacular visual experience recreating the look that the group was famous for.

During the 70s, ABBA’s brightly colored jumpsuits were one of their most notable fashion innovations. But ABBA also had other notable outfits, such as their Napoleonic-inspired costumes for their first big hit “Waterloo” and their surprisingly American patriotic inspired outfits for the song “Ring Ring.” “ABBA’s costumes have lasted because of its’ fashion-forward trends in the 70s and over-the-top glamour. It’s a style which has been heavily copied by ABBA tribute artists like Arrival, to this day,” said ABBA enthusiast John Dyson. Since their first album, ABBA has sold over 375 million albums worldwide, is the second best-selling band in history and is the fourth most-popular selling artists in the history of recorded music. The Arrival concert begins at 7:30pm at Powell Symphony Hall on September 11, 2010. For ticket information, visit the St. Louis Symphony website at www.slso.org or call 314-534-1700 for more information.


FashionFury SPECIAL PROMOTION

Being that September is our style issue, VV set out to ask some of our favorite retailers what are their “HOT PICKS” for the upcoming season. Mind, body and soul seem to be this year’s fall frenzy. These retailers have always been a big supporter of our LGBT community; VV asks that you return the favor by visiting one these hot spots for fashion!

Baked T’s

Jamie Kokay, Manager A Hot Pink Garment Washed, 100% cotton, Pre-shrunk, Personal T-Shirt PRICE: $18.00 At Baked T’s you will enjoy a unique shopping experience! Imagine a 70’s t-shirt shop with 21st century technology in a bakery like store setting. But, unlike the 70’s, you are not limited to in-stock heat transfers or heat pressed letters and numbers. At Baked T’s, there are no quantity limitations, just boundless creativity. 6368 Delmar in The Loop, 314 727 4400 Bakedts.com

Cheap TRX

Michael Mahler, Owner Lip Service, Plaid, Graphic, Button-down Shirt PRICE: $58.00 Whether it is fashion or fetish, Cheap TRX has been St. Louis’ leader in LGBT style for over 20-years. Starting on Cherokee Street, Cheap TRX now calls the South Grand Business District home. 3211 South Grand, 314 664 4011 cheaptrx.com


Craft Alliance

Miriam Wiegard, Artist Recycled Billboard Bag PRICE: $75.00 Handcrafted one of a kind bag made by reusing the vinyl of giant billboard ads. It is cut and sewn to create a unique work of graphic art. These bags are durable, yet lightweight and no two are even remotely alike. 6640 Delmar, 314 725 1177 craftalliance.org

Scrucious

Deanna Chafin & Cindi Ferrell, Owners Sugar Scrub PRICE: $20.00 Scrucious is a line of all-natural sugar scrubs made with the finest sugars, extracts, fruits and essential oils that are fabulous for exfoliating and moisturizing. The brand was created after seeing a need in the health and beauty industry for a high quality scrub without the high dollar price. Scrucious.com

The Silver Lady Jeff Weintrop, Owner

½ Polished & ½ Linked Bib-style Necklace PRICE: $518.00 For over 24 years the Silver Lady has offered St. Louis a unique selection of sterling silver. Visit their store to find that special design for yourself or that special someone. Their selection is always changing, so it is best to stop in often to check out the new merchandise.

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Pageantry

Shines

Written by Colin Murphy – Senior Writer Photography by Colin Murphy Miss Gay America pageantry season is in full swing. Three preliminaries for female impersonation’s oldest national contests were held throughout the bi-state. Queen City resident Nikki Stevens was crowned the 38-annual Miss Gay Missouri America on July 25 in Springfield with first alternate honors going to Tajma Stetson of Kansas City. Here in St. Louis Miss Gay Midwest America was held Aug. 8 where St. Louis natives Trixie LaRue and Crystal Lace placed first and second, respectively. In Carbondale, Ill. Miss Gay Illinois America was held with Tabitha Sexton earning the crown and Dymond-Champagne Calloway as first alternate. All six contestants advance to the Miss Gay America 2011 pageant in Columbus, Ohio, Oct. 13-17. 19


t h g i NCrawl-

Photography by Robert L. Brown Art Direction by Paul Gibson Models: Rachel Hadfield & Brett Ballard of Centro Models

Its time to mix it up. Autumn offers us yet another chance to express ourselves through our wardrobe. St. Louis has a lot of style to offer; you just have to know where to look. Local designers, brands and boutiques are the best way to ensure you don’t look like a carbon copy. Whether your night on the town is in The Grove or elsewhere its key to be yourself!! Brett and Rachel show us how to flaunt our inner sexy all while keeping it cool...

s r e


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form fun

FASHI


nction

ION

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RIGHT on him: Sweater – Skiff. Hat – Moris Fashions.

LEFT on him: Fishnet Tank top – Cheap TRX. Vest – Nordstrom. Pants – Reign by Paul Gibson. Scarf – Vintage. Belt - Express. on her: Corset – Cheap TRX. Leggings – Byrd. Necklace – Cheap Trx.


WHEN I GET INTO BED AT NIGHT, I HOPE I DON’T GET INTO IT ALONE!

- CALVIN KLEIN


LEFT on him: Handcuff Tank – Cheap TRX. Jeans – Moris Fashions. Hugo Boss Blazer – Moris Fashions. Sunglasses – H&M. Necklace – Guess. on her: Boots – Bakers. Dress – Byrd. Glasses – Urban Outfitters. RIGHT on her: Dress – Michael Drummond. Boots – Byrd.

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&

Scene Styling

On August 17th, LGBTr’s packed the Wine Press in the Central West End in celebration of the 2010 Vital VOICE Arts & Entertainment Issue. Samuel Adams & Jacob’s Creek Wine sponsored the evening. Each year Vital VOICE selects 10 – 15 openly out LGBT artist to honor for their contribution to our city’s art scene. This years A&E class are Lola Van Ella, Philip Hitchcock, Fern Taylor, Paul Gibson, Brandon Anshultz, Dr. Jeffrey Carter, Dedrick Archer, Summer Osbourne, Trish Busch, Doug Ruble, Charles Mooneyham and Stephanie Thurmer.

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

        


Vin tage Van Ella Yesteryear’s attire mixes well today

Written by Sarah Fentem Art Direction by Tess Tulley Photography by Richard Nichols Special Thanks: Lola Van Ella, Retro 101 and Foam Coffee

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I

t is often noted that fashion functions like a pendulum, regularly swinging back and forth between two sartorial extremes. For what seems like a very long time, the pendulum has been hovering around a louche, rock aesthetic, with fashion being dominated by a mix of eighties pop and nineties grunge. At clubs, on the street, or flipping through magazines, one is confronted by a parade of hipsters wearing slashed tees, leggings, fluorescent leotards, and messy hair. Those whose teeth ache at the sight of scruffy kids in plaid scarves can finally rejoice. The pendulum is swinging back in the other direction, and a stylish sea change is taking place. Thanks in part to influences like AMC’s Mad Men and Tom Ford’s A Single Man, retro style is becoming increasingly popular. For those looking to add a dash of Sterling-Cooper to their closets, local vintage shops are ideal for achieving a cool, throwback style. Those who could care less about pillbox hats and dainty gloves shouldn’t write off vintage shops, though. The “vintage” title generally refers to any garment made before the eighties or nineties. In addition to options from the Eisenhower era, one also can find sporty eighties polos or tawny leather jackets from the seventies. Vintage shops in the Loop and on Cherokee Street (all the vintage clothes used in this shoot came from Retro 101 on Cherokee) have something for everyone. Who says that fashion needs to swing back and forth, anyway? Aristotle claimed that virtue was the moderate option between two extremes. Take a page from Ari’s book his book and snatch up what you like, fads be damned.

DON’T TAKE THE LOOK TOO LITERALLY:

Lola Van Ella, St. Louis’ goddess of throwback glamour, can mix up her vintage look with sky-high heels. Making yourself into a head-to-toe Betty Draper clone will make you look like you’re heading to a costume party. It’s a good idea to mix one of two vintage pieces with modern staples. Think of mixing your grandma’s tweed jacket with a stretchy tank, or a vintage bolero with skinny jeans and stilettos.

INSPECT CAREFULLY AND KNOW WHAT CAN BE FIXED:

A seamstress can easily stitch up a rip on a seam. Buttons can be replaced. However, a garment with a large gash in the lining, a mysterious stain, or pilling fabric generally cannot be salvaged. Cut your losses and move on.

UTILIZE THE DRESSING ROOM:

A 1962 size 10 is a different size from a 2010 size 10. Ignore what’s printed on the label and try everything on. Holding it up to your body while its still on the hanger doesn’t count!


KNOW WHAT CAN BE TAILORED:

The general rule is a bigger garment can be made smaller, but a small garment cannot be made bigger. Its much easier for a tailor to remove fabric than to add fabric to a piece of clothing. Sleeves and hems can be shortened and waists can be taken in, but if a jacket is pulling around your shoulders or a skirt will not zip, then suck it up and put it back on the rack.

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INVEST IN ACCESSORIES:

If wearing clothes of unknown origin simply doesn’t appeal to you, accessories are a great way to mix a little vintage into your closet. Stores always have a large selection of costume and real jewelry, silk scarves, handbags, and belts. Also, if you’re in the market for luggage, stores usually have delightful suitcases and trunks for a lot less than you would pay at the mall.


FUR AND LEATHER:

Vintage and resale shops are great sources for finding leather jackets and fur coats and stoles and a fraction of what you would pay at a salon. The same rules apply here: try everything on, and check for rips and stains.

BE EXTRA GENTLE:

In the age of synthetic fibers like Lycra and spandex, it’s easy to forget that natural fibers like wool and silk can’t simply be thrown into the washing machine. Ask about care instructions from the sales staff, or take your findings to a professional cleaner.

HAVE A GAME PLAN:

Depending on where you go, you could be confronted with an endless supply of options. To avoid getting overwhelmed (or going over budget), it’s helpful to plan ahead. For example, if you are in the market for a new pair of jeans? Make that your mission before meandering around the party dresses. That said, if you find a perfect concert tee shirt or Pucci scarf, by all means snatch it up. Happy Hunting!


Vital VOICE dedicates this issue to our Non-profit of the month

Discovering Options With the hope of making an impact on children whose lives are disrupted by drugs, alcohol, violence and a lack of resources, Discovering Options was started seven years ago to create a safe and engaging after-school program where children could learn real problem solving skills while having a blast. Each year, Discovering Options has the good fortune to serve about 100 children through its award-winning after school programming. Each 10-week after school session includes weekly yoga and international cooking lessons for kids, conflict resolution, weekly individual support by Master’s Level Social Workers and a screened and trained mentor at the conclusion of the ten weeks. In order to support our critical work with children, we host Cirque De La Vie, our annual fundraising gala. This year the theme is An Evening in Tinsel Town. We can promise you a red carpet, an appearance by Marilyn Monroe, Dieta Pepsi as the mistress of ceremonies and a whole lot of fun! Tickets are $175 per guest and include an open bar, three-course dinner, entertainment by members of the Gateway Men’s chorus and opportunities to shop at both silent and live auctions for a wonderful local cause. You are the only ingredient missing. Come join us at the Palladium and see old friends, make new ones and help children discover their options. Tickets can be purchased on our website: www.discoveringoptions.org or by calling 314.721.8116 extension 11


ON SALE

NOW!

The world’s best ABBA tribute show comes to St. Louis for one night only. Arrival recreates the ABBA experience, from every note of the music, right down to costume replicas. Powell Hall goes retro with performances of ABBA greatest hits including “Dancing Queen” and “Voulez Vous.”

314-534-1700 or SLSO.ORG Bring your group and save! 314-286-4155

Media support provided by


The 18th Annual HRC Dinner Gala Saturday, September 25, 2010 Hyatt Regency St. Louis at the Arch The Regency Ballroom Payment Plans are Available This Year! Be a Table Captain! Make a Personal Tribute to a Loved One! Donate to the Silent or Live Auctions! Have Your Company be a Corporate Sponsor! Check the website for information: http://stlouis.hrc.org/dinner Facebook Event Page: http://www.facebook.com/event. php?eid=117174141632222&ref=mft Tickets are available through BoxOfficeTickets.com or by dialing 1-800-494-TIXS


September 2010