Colour Brightening your beauty CONTENTS Features 6
Brilliant Brushes The need for brushes, which ones you need, and how to use them
14 Going Green
An environmentally friendly approach to makeup
18 How to wear red The art to wearing red lipstick
28 Itâ€™s all about the lashes Fake lashes are all the rage this season, we take a closer look
32 The fundamentals of foundation
Everything you could ever want to know about foundation
70 The art of looking natural The natural look is in this season, we look at why
98 Lets go punk rock How to get that hardcore rock look
92 Bobbi Brown Entrepreneur and makeup extraordinaire
98 Back to Basics The importance of moisturising
Regulars 4 Letter from the editor 11 Trendspotting In this issue we go trend spotting at the Australian Fashion Week
25 Make up focus The notorious smokey eye
36 Photo spread Magnifying your makeup
42 In the make up box A closer look at anything and every thing fashionable this season
48 Artist Profile World renowned makeup artist Rudy Miles
55 Get the look
We show you how to get your favourite celebs look
How to clean your brushes
In this issue 52 Knowing when to toss your trash Helping you to decide when you should say goodbye to that old makeup
60 Applying Mascara We give you all the tips you need to get those awesome lashes
64 The wonders of water proofing Giving you an incisive look into waterproof makeup
78 The feather Frenzy A look at this seasonâ€™s obsession with feathers and everything fabulous
86 The 60â€™s revolution
The era that redefined makeup as we know it
88 Behind the scenes A closer look at what goes on behind the curtains of fashion shows
Letter from the editor This season is full of fun, fantastic and fabulous trends, which can adapt to suit any readerâ€™s tastes. For the more conservative reader natural makeup can provide a new, fresh and rejuvenated look, while for the more outgoing, this season is all about colour, so go crazy. Fashion trends such as false eyelashes and smokey eye makeup are making hard and fast comebacks, while we become more environmentally conscious of where our products are coming from and how to dispose of them after use. At the Australian Fashion week which I recently attended colour was at the forefront of attention, with pinks, purples, yellows and turquoise being all the rage. With the state of the economy of late things have been looking a little grey, but if makeup and fashion trends are anything to go by things are about to change. Often the little things in life like makeup and fashion are taken for granted and seen as unnecessary luxuries, but the wonders of a little hope are untold. So the next time you add a little colour to your outfit or dab a little eye-shadow on your eyelid you should realise that in doing so youâ€™re not only making yourself feel better, but you make those around you feel happier too. This season is all about colour, makeup is evolving in countless new and exciting ways. Putting this magazine together was definitely one of the highlights of my magazine career. I can only hope that you get as much pleasure and enjoyment in reading this as my team and I received from putting it together. So go forward and colourise your life, and the lives of others! xox
Colour Editor Loraine Dalton Deputy Editor Assistant Editor Managing Editor Arts Editor Senior Editors Features Writers Junior Features Writer Chief Copy Editor Copy Editor Senior Designer Designer Picture Editor Picture Assistant Beauty Editor Contributing Senior Fashion Editor Contributing Fashion Editor Junior Fashion Editor Fashion Assistant Office Manager Online Producer Online Editor Business Manager Events Manager Events Assistant Promotions Manager Promotions Executive Promotions Coordinator Advertising Executives
Christopher Kemp Jeremy Dobbins Patrick Cohen Nina Torr Kim Barron Cherise Coller Robert Claud Shannon Dalton Luke Percy Sipho Kings Judy Smith Tarryn Goldbloom Samantha Pinkney Andrew Roy Denise Brown Louise Lanham Timothy Kostler Laura Durheim Sharon Lewis Tom Minni Kathy Perks Cara Wingate Jade Swanapoel Beverly Boestra Mellisa Warren Dawn Kay Louisa Rose Isabelle Redner Rick Pierce Gwen Raymond Ianthe Laurence
Colour website Colour@makeuplovers.com International Editor-in-Cheif Dave Prichard Director: International Ediitions Ross Donovan
Head Office: 21 St Johnâ€™s Street, London 8001. PO Box 5355, London 8000. Tel 021 46462000 (Editorial/Promotions); RamsayMedia Helpline 0860100204, e-mail email@example.com, or subscribe online via www.magsathorme.co.uk/assocmags.htm or www.colour.org; fax 021 461 2500/1
Brilliant Brushes By Dhav Naidu
There are three parts to a brush:
Whenever someone asks me the importance of makeup brushes, here is what I tell them – yes you do really need them. Not the full 397 brushes or whatever number that are out there, but perhaps just 4-5 or maybe even only 3 that suit your needs and budget. As always, the choice is yours but I am here to help you make an informed decision on which brush you really need, how to use them and most importantly how to look after them. Before we go into the different brushes here are a few things I would like to bring to your attention: Brushes can vary in prices, you pay for the type of hair used, how it is put together (ferrule, handle etc) the brand name and in some instances the patented design of heads. They are investment pieces that should last you a life time.
• The head – the bristles – look for brushes that are neatly trimmed with no falling or wonky hair. It should feel luxurious not rough in any way. Ask if the hairs used have been gathered from fallen hair rather than shorn (this is will give the brush a rough blunt feel.) • The ferrule – or metal holding the bristles to the handle. This is by far the most important part of a brush. The ferrule hides where the hairs are glued and crimped to the handle. Take a close look at the crimp, the tighter the crimp the better the brush. Gently tug at hairs if they come away in your hand look at another brand. • The handle – should be well balanced, hold it and feel that it is comfortable. It should feel right not too heavy or too light. The length of the handle is personal taste but it should not be too bulky. What Brushes You Need Two synthetic brushes for concealer: One flat but slightly domed brush for smoothing concealer where you need it without making a mess Two of the best:
• MAC Brush194 – perfect long length of the bristles allow imperfection to be concealed effortlessly • Aveda Brush 1 - which Aveda has designed as an eyeshadow brush but is great as a concealer brush. The other brush should be pointed and small enough so that you can dab your concealer directly on a blemish. Two of the best: • Becca 32 Spot Concealer Brush • Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Brush It might sound simpler to use a finger but a brush allows for a more precise application and stops you applying too much product Two dome-shaped eye-shadow brushes My picks are: Large about 1.5cm or larger– to apply colour from the lash line to just under the brow, or in other words apply colour all over the eyelid • Becca Cosmetics 36 Colour Wash • The Body Shop Eyeshadow Blender Small about 1cm or slightly less – for lining the lids and creases • Stila Brush 15 – excellent brush double ended, has a smudger for soft eyeliner • Bobbi Brown Eyeshadow – softest and well balanced • Issada Brush 6 – an Australian innova tion taking over the world
• Becca Cosmetics Brush 10 I recommend face powder brushes for blushers. Why you ask – face powder should be applied by a velour puff, that way you are not only using less product but you are setting your makeup (the main purpose of powder) rather than letting your lap and shoulder wear the powder too. It was traditionally called a ‘finish brush’ and that is exactly what you should do with it. Blushers applied with a face powder brush give a softer finish to the cheeks. I recommend: • Bobbi Brown Powder – absolute luxury and a definite must • The Body Shop Face& Body • MAC Brush 123 – how can you possibly go pass this
The Rest Best foundation brush – sponges use up too much product and never give an even finish, always favour a synthetic brush it is not only easier to clean but is easier to apply • Bobbi Brown Foundation and Stila Brush 27 are a tie for first place • Other notables are Prescriptives Foundation Brush and Elizabeth Arden Eyebrows – always look for a firmer bristled brush at an angle this will recreate hair-like strokes within the brows. • A three way tie, Stila Brush 18 – sheer genius two in one, Nars Brush 5 – the first and still one of the best and Bobbi Brown Eye Definer Brush
Eyeliner Powder – the bristle needs to be as skinny and flat as possible to get a defined rich line Four excellent ones are: • Guerlain Eyeliner Angled Brush – new but perfect • Bloom Eyeliner Brush • Nars Brush 2 – excellent! • Bobbi Brown Ultra Fine Eye Liner Liquid - the bristles need to be fine but well proportioned, too long and you will loose control of the line and too short you will end up with a pudgy line Two perfect brushes • Nars Brush 6 and Aveda Brush 4
For thinner lips Aveda Brush 11 and The Body Shop Retractable Lip Brush – the bristles are longer and narrower to get an even smooth application
For fuller lips Bobbi Brown Lip and Laura Mercier Lipcolour Brush – both are made with natural bristles, shorter and slightly fuller to give application of lip colour to ample lips the control it requires. They come with caps. And if you must have a blusher brush Go for these, • Guerlain Angled Blush Brush – excellently tapered for perfect application • Issada Brush 24 Aveda and The Body Shop’s brush range are entirely synthetic and will fool any connoisseur of natural bristled brushes. And if you still want more brushes, come September buy some Australis products to get this super cool brush set – one of the best I have seen as ‘a gift with a purchase’ for a long time. Look out for it for it will disappear very quickly A general rule of what type of bristles to buy for your makeup • Cream products are best applied with a synthetic brush • Powder products are best applied with a natural bristled brush Care for your Brushes Looking after your brushes is paramount for they are meant to last you a lifetime (provided they are of best quality) • Wash your brushes at least once a fortnight • Hold the brush tightly at the ferrule (this ensures that water does not get into the glue within the ferrule) apply a little baby shampoo, agitate the hair gently and rinse thoroughly, squeeze out excess water and lie flat with the handle resting on a counter and the bristles hanging over the edge. Air-dry overnight. Here is when you use your fingers • If the area is larger than your finger tips go ahead use your fingers • Any creams or gels • Fingers are also great as a blending tool. Your body heat helps meld colours to skin better but only after using a brush
Trendspotting at Fashion Week We go on the trend hunt at Australian Fashion Week and learn the tricks of the trade from the masters themselves. Our number one tip for this season is all about the brows. By Nicky Tenant
Bold brows at Marnie Skillings Reminiscent of Alexander McQueen’s 2007/08 show, blackened brows were at the fore of Marnie Skillings’ new-season look. MAC make-up director Noni Smith picked MAC’s new Penultimate Eyeliner in Rapid Black, $32, ( www.maccosmetics.com), to create the sharp-edged finish. Its pen-style tip is perfect for precise liquid-lined eyes.
Get the look: While we love a bold brow this paintedon look is too daring for everyday.
Tip: Keep brows neat and groomed with regular visits to an eyebrow expert. Define your new shape with a powder shadow then set with a brow gel for staying power.
Lips and nails at Antipodium Matching your lip colour back with your nails is the look for this season. We’ve been working the trend since the A/W 2009/10 shows and Antipodium jumped in on the double-up action. It was gothmeets-glam at the Totally Tarot show, where models stomped out with purplepainted lips, eyes smoked in matching magical tones and long almond-shaped nails slicked in the same dramatic hue.
Get the look: MAC make-up artist Linda Jeffreyes created this spellbinding look layering MAC Lip Liner in Magenta, $30, with Violetta Lipstick, $35, for the intense purple pout. And two coats of CND nail colour in Studio 54, $16.95, livened up models’ manicures.
Gorgeous skin at Gary Bigeni Keeping in line with his slick and minimal aesthetic, Gary Bigeni kept it fresh and light when it came to the make-up. Models’ skin gleamed with radiant health as make-up master Natasha Severino prepped faces with glowing essentials such as ModelCo Skin Drink Airbrush Moisturiser, $32, Luminosity Shimmer Stick, $32, and Highlighting Serum, $32, ( www.modelco.com).
Get the look: This look is perfect for waking up a lessthan fabulous winter complexion.
Tip: Do as Natasha Severino did and after applying a hydrating foundation, gently pat a little luminiser, such as ModelCo Highlighting Serum, into the skin for a gorgeous glow. Try mixing it in with your foundation or moisturiser for the same radiant effect.
The colour of the moment: orange From soft bursts of pop-tastic peach and tangerine to bold brash orange, the citrusy hue worked its way through countless shows during RAFW. These tones work well on models’ faces for the runway, however a slightly more forgiving shade in the golden colour spectrum is coral.
Get the look: Used at Ginger & Smart (pictured), Therese Rawsthorne and Lisa Ho, MAC Cream Colour Base in Rich Coral, $35, (www.maccosmetics.com), was on high rotation during RAFW.
Tip: The creamy pot of pigmented colour is perfect to warm up cheeks, lips and can be used as an eyeshadow too – just not all three at once. Another multi-purpose coral favourite is Stila Convertible Colour in Gladiola, $48, ( www.meccacosmetica. com.au).
Sexy and slicked-back Gel was out in full force at Dion Lee, Friedrich Gray, Anna & Boy’s spring/summer show. The once 80s hair essential is back in the trend spotlight and good timing too. Slicked-back wet-look styles will save our hair any humidity issues once the mercury begins to rise.
Get the look: Dion Lee’s slicked-back styling was modern and tough with an androgynous edge. “We wanted a tough French roll to take the classic style to another level,” hairstylist Brad Ngata said. “We gave the hair a feminine accent in the back and a masculine accent with the wet-styling at the front.”
By Faith Lawless Being “green” and recycling to save the planet is a big thing right now, and only getting bigger. Most households across the country participate in some sort of recycling program, but sometimes you just don’t know if you can recycle certain things such as makeup containers. Well, several of the major cosmetic and beauty lines have wonderful recycling programs. The kicker is that sometimes you’re rewarded with a nice freebie of thanks from the company, all while doing your part in saving the planet.
Origins Recycling Program In April 2009, Origins kicked-off their Return to Origins Recycling Program. They installed dedicated recycling receptacles in each of their stores so consumers can drop off cosmetic and toiletry bottles, compacts, tubes, caps, and jars. Origins also doesn’t discriminate on what brand is being recycled, so they accept all cosmetic brand containers no matter who made it. As a way of saying “thank you” for recycling and helping the planet, Origins will give consumers a Free sample of their choice of one of Origins high-performance skincare products. During the month of April in 2009, they were offering samples from their A Perfect World Collection, but samples may change and very by location. In the end you can feel good on the inside by doing your part to save the planet, and Origins can help you look great on the outside.
M.A.C Recycling Program M.A.C Cosmetics is doing their part to promote recycling through their Back to M.A.C program. This program is pretty cut and dry where if you return six M.A.C primary
packaging containers to either a M.A.C counter or online, then you will score a Free M.A.C lipstick of your choice. This is their way of thanking you for helping them keep our planet “green”.
Kiehl’s Recycling Program Kiehl’s always accepts their bottles and containers for recycling, and sometimes they also offer a “thank you” freebie as an incentive. In 2006 they had a great program in order to get consumers interested in recycling. At that time they offered a Free product of any size in return for three Kiehl’s containers for recycling. That program ended, but they do have various promotions from time to time. For Earth Day 2008 they gave away a Kiehl’s canvas tote bag as a way of saying “thanks” for keeping the earth green. Check your local Kiehl’s location for new recycling promos.
Aveda Recycling Program Aveda’s Recycle Caps with Aveda program helps to eliminate the accumulation of plastic bottle caps in landfills, oceans, rivers, and elsewhere. Most of the time when you think the plastic caps are being recycled they are actually being thrown
into landfills or bodies of water, where they are polluting our planet as well as being harmful to birds and wildlife. The program collects rigid polypropylene plastic caps that show a “5” on the plastic or in the recycling arrows. These caps can be found on shampoo, water, soda, milk and other beverage bottles, flip top caps on tubes and food product bottles (such as ketchup and mayonnaise), laundry detergents and some jar lids such as peanut butter. Aveda has set up collection sites at their salons and stores, as well as having partnered with various schools and communities across the country. Once the caps are collected, Aveda gives them to a recycler who then turns them into new caps and containers for various items. They kicked off the program officially at the Spring/Summer 2009 New York Fashion Week. Currently they don’t offer an incentive for helping collect the caps, but you can contribute and feel great in doing so. Plus, when you drop off the caps feel free to ask if they have a promotional incentive for the program or if they are planning something soon. It’s great to get something in return, but the fact that you have done your part to help wildlife and keep the planet clean should be enough.
How to wear RED By Julyne Derrick
Rule No. 3:
Red lipstick is a universal classic and has yet to go out of style, according to the fashion magazines, yet many women assume they can't wear it. They're wrong. Here we show you how.
Pick the right colour If your complexion is pink, you’ll look better in plum shades, while girls with yellow tones are flattered by warmer reds that have a brown base, according to celebrity makeup artist Jemma Kidd in the December 2005 issue of Harper’s.
Rule No. 1: The secret lies in the rest of your face. The paler the skin, the bigger the pop. Go light on the eyes and the blush, otherwise you’ll risk looking like a clown (Cameron Diaz made this fatal mistake at the 2007 Golden Globes). Here’s how to do it: Skip eyeliner and go only for mascara (black for brunettes, brown for blondes and redheads), making sure to apply to bottom lashes (it opens up your eyes). Dust face with powder and cheeks with a soft blush.
Rule No. 4: Don’t let nails clash We prefer non-red nail polish when you’re going red on the lips. A clear polish or light colour is cool, and black polish is a trend that shows no sign of going away anytime soon. If you want to go red on the nails, make sure the colour matches your lips. I strongly feel Essie makes the best nail polishes. Check out your red options here.
Rule No. 2:
Rule No. 5:
Line inside of lips Red lipstick tends to bleed, so fill in lips with lip liner first, suggests makeup artist Ashunta Sheriff in the December 2006 issue of Harper's Bazaar.
Blending is in Few makeup artists stick to one shade of any lipstick, they tend to blend a few to create the perfect colours. If you’ve bought a red lipstick shade that’s too bright, dark or whatever, don’t throw it away. Instead, experiment with other lipstick shades you have on hand to create the perfect shade of red.
It’s ALL about the LASHES
By Alice Hart-Davis They used to be a joke, the preserve of drag queens and ageing dolly-birds who’d never quite got over the Sixties, but right now, false eyelashes are enjoying a renaissance. At first, it was a stealthy return; make-up artists sneaked the odd clump of them in among celebrity lashes, and the names of women who could do spellbindingly good, yet natural-looking, eyelash extensions were traded excitedly by the fashion-and-beauty brigade. Then, somewhere in the past 18 months, the last vestiges of stigma fell away and having improbably long, thick and fluttery eyelashes has become not just a one-off look for a party, but a necessity for everyday make-up. You can blame pop princesses for much of it – at this spring’s Brit awards, Duffy looked as if she could barely open her eyes, so loaded down were they with falsies. But now false lashes have become so acceptable that even the ultra-stylish Michelle Obama wore them on her visit to Britain – and not bespoke extensions, but a strip of gloriously obvious stick-on lashes. To ensure you don’t not jump onto this awesome, fun filled, playful band wagon, we have compiled a list of everything you could ever need to know about the art of applying the false lash.
How to Apply False Eyelashes Long eyelashes can make eyes look bigger, fuller and more inviting, but not all of us are blessed with sky-high lashes. Thankfully, modern civilization invented false eyelashes, which come in various styles, colours, and sizes. If you learn how to put them on correctly, no one will ever guess that they’re not yours.
What You’ll Need • • • • • • • •
False eyelashes False eyelash glue Mascara Eyelash Curler Tweezers A mirror Patience Eyeliner
Step 1 Trim the lashes. If the lash is wider than your eye, trim one side of it lash by lash. Optionally, trim the individual lashes to make them look more natural. They should be longer towards the outer corner of the eye, and the lash length should vary slightly.
Step 2 Squeeze eyelash glue onto the back of your hand and run the eyelash along it. Blow softly from edge to edge to make the glue a little less runny to apply your lashes.
Step 3 Pick the lashes up with tweezers and bring it as close to your natural lash line as possible.
Warnings • If false eyelash glue gets in your eyes,
take the eyelashes off and wash your eyes out. After drying the eyelashes, you may be able to apply them again. • Use the least amount of glue necessary to avoid accidents. • Use clean eye lashes, tweezers and other accessories to avoid contamination • Never use someone else’s old eye lashes without sanitizing. • Theatrical lashes can include glitter or other decorative touches. This glitter can sometimes get into your eyes. • For a good tip, apply black eyeliner BEFORE you stick on the lashes. It’s easier to handle with when you’re done and gives it a clean natural finish.
Press from end to end and hold until the glue dries (30 seconds to a minute, or sometimes less depending upon the adhesive). This allows the glue to set so that when you lift your fingertips from it, the lashes won’t come along for the ride
Apply mascara while pressing your finger behind the fake lashes. This will bond the false lashes with yours.(It may be beneficial to use an eyelash curler before applying mascara)
Step 6 Fill any gaps between the false lashes and your natural lash line with eyeliner.
By Ashleigh Stan Trends come and go like the seasons, however the smokey eye never seems to get old. Whether you want to go for the classic charcoal colour, or want to spice things up with something a little different like purple or green, the smokey eye can be adapted to suit almost any occasion.
We show you how to get that totally awesome look in an easy six steps...
S M O K 2 E Y E Y E
Apply eyeshadow base all over eyelids. We recommend Clinique Touch Tint for Eyes.
Apply eyeliner close to the lash line. Jane Be Pure Mineral gel eyeliner does the job beautifully.
3 Apply eyeshadow (preferably a darker shade) to eyelids and spread it evenly toward brow bone. We love MAC Carbon.
4 Using an angle, eyeliner or eyebrow brush apply the same eyeshadow (same colour as step 3) to bottom lash lines.
Use the same brush as step 4 and apply a different shade (preferably darker than the previous one) to outline the eyelids starting from the inner corner toward the end. Do it several times and blend it evenly to make your lids stand out. I’m using MAC Beauty Marked.
A) Use a black liquid eyeliner and trace the top as well as the bottom lash lines. I’m using K-Palette Black Eyeliner. This thing is amazing! Everyone should get one! B) Use a black pencil eyeliner and traces on the inner lash lines. Be careful to not poke your eyes if you’re not use to this. But this step is essential to make your eyes more alluring and sexy. hehe. C) Apply mascara and you’re done.
ADVERT 3 27
By Tiyana Hyseman Have you ever had the urge to run up to someone and blend in their foundation? Have you ever been distracted by just plain bad makeup? We have all had these moments and probably have been the brunt of a few stares ourselves. Perhaps the problem lies not with the makeup, but with the lack of knowledge and purpose of the makeup. And who can place blame? There are so many foundations from which to choose; liquid, cream, cream to powder, mineral, hypoallergenic, and the list goes on.
s of Foundation By Laura Maggs
Foundation and Its Purpose Foundation is exactly as the word implies : it is the foundation (basis) for a beautiful face. The purpose of foundation is to even out the skin tone and hide imperfections. Its purpose is not to disguise the face, draw attention to inevitable flaws, or even shock the viewers. It is the primer for which to showcase the features that we most adore.
Types of Foundation Foundation comes in three basic forms; liquid, cream, and powder. Given these three forms, combinations arise such as moose foundation, cream to powder foundation, mineral foundation, and tinted moisturizer. Foundations may also come with specialized formulas to fit the needs of specific skin types. For instance, foundations are made for sensitive skin, oily skin, and dry skin. With so many types of foundations to choose, let’s begin with the basics: liquid, cream, and powder.
Liquid Liquid foundations are wonderful because they are easy to apply and are very natural looking. Liquid foundations offer medium coverage. They are well suited for dry skin types because of the high moisture content. Look for liquid foundations that are oil free.
Cream Foundation Cream foundation offers excellent coverage that is milky and flawless. Cream foundations come in a compact or stick. They are convenient and quick to apply. Cream foundations are so versatile that they can be used as a corrector. With a high moisture content, the cream foundation is a perfect choice for dry skin. Look for creams that contain moisturizer for a smooth finish. Arbonne stick foundation provides botanical ingredients to improve the quality of the skin. A promising product to try is Cover FX . This cream foundation comes in a compact and is recommended by dermatologists for rosacea and acne.
Powder Cream to Powder Foundations Powder foundation can be found in a loose powder form or in a compressed powder form. Powders are often used as a quick foundation fix for a face that needs just a slight evening out or to set the makeup already in place. It is an excellent choice for oily skin or for makeup in high humidity. Powder foundation is also available in a cream to powder form. This type of foundations combines the smoothness and flawless coverage of a cream with the fast drying and setting of a powder. It is a terrific foundation for someone with combination skin or someone with time restrictions. Every minute saved does count.
Choosing a Foundation Equally important in choosing the form of foundation, is deciding upon the color. Most women are well-suited to yellow-ba sed foundations. A yellow based foundation neutralizes pink or red undertones. Using a pink based foundation will make the skin appear too pink if you already have pink undertones. A blue based foundation may cause skin with blue undertones to look ashy. It is best to invest in a quality foundation from a cosmetic consultant instead of a drug store brand. You will want to test the foundation before purchasing. Apply the foundation the lower part of the cheek and allow it to dry. It should invisible, or nearly. Remember: The purpose is to even out skin tone. Leave the color to the rouge, shadow, and correctors.
Applying Foundation 1. Use your finger or a sponge when applying foundation. 2. Divide the face in half and use a method called “combing the face” to apply the foundation. Distribute the foundation on the cheek area and distribute in a downward motion towards the jaw line and neck and then upward towards the hairline. I use this method to eliminate a line of demarcation around the jaw line and hairline. Using this method also lessens the amount a foundation used on the neck, saving trips to the cleaners. 3. Set the foundation with translucent powder, pressed or loose, to give a matte, shine free finish. Loose powder will give a sheer, more natural look.
Makeup Kit Essentials It doesn’t take a battalion of brushes or an expensive makeup kit to polish a fabulous face. “With the right essentials, you can freshen up in minutes,” says celebrity makeup artist Billy B. Here’s everything you need.
By Tom Neilman Eyelash Curler Every woman should own this little marvel. Hold the curler at the base of the lash line and squeeze lightly, gradually moving outward. Your eyes will instantly look more alive.
Cotton Swab The secret to truly top-notch makeup application is to blend, blend, blend. Blur edges of colour with a Q-tips® cotton swab, and you’ll achieve that professional look each time.
Concealer Brush You take care of your skin, so let it show! Instead of masking your face in a heavy foundation, use a concealer brush to cover up dark spots and blend away imperfections.
Slant-Tip Tweezers Good tweezers are a must for maintaining a polished arch to your brows. Slanted tips make it easier to grab hairs at the root – just tweeze in the direction the hair is growing.
Big Powder Brush An oversize brush is great for dusting on translucent powder as a finishing touch to your look. You’ll get a sheerer application than you’d get from an old-fashioned puff.
The Art of Looking Natural By Roxan Lewis Mineral makeup is the latest in the trend in cosmetics toward the simple, all natural and elegant. Mineral base makeup is made with pure minerals rather than fillers and colors, and it comes in powder, liquid or cream versions. The powder makeup is applied with big, fluffy brushes: the brush is dabbed into the powder, then the excess is tapped off and the brush is then applied gently to the face. Start by putting on less than you think you’ll need: you’ll be surprised at how well the minerals cover. Mineral powder makeup is so finely spun that it’s easy to overdo it; putting on too much is a hazard of novice users. But once you get a little experience, you probably won’t want to go back to ordinary makeup. Mineral foundation is weightless, and somehow manages to provide coverage while looking invisible. Mineral make up is the best cosmetic for women with acne, rosacea or other skin conditions, not only because you can control the coverage by adding thin layers, but because the ingredients are non-comedogenic and inert, less likely to cause reactions. People with allergies can use mineral makeup, and reviews of the various brands consistently mention how easy it is to apply and how wonderfully it camouflages imperfections. The all-natural look is extremely hot right now. The major problem with that trend is that most people just don’t look that great without some sort of makeup. Minor flaws, and sometimes more problematic issues like rosacea or acne interfere with the “natural look.” Mineral makeup is a solution that offers women of all skin types and colors a fresh, all-natural look that does not appear to be “overly made-up.” Ordinary makeup adds colors, fillers, and weight to your skin. Mineral makeup is weightless and invisible, and covers your minor flaws beautifully – making your skin appear younger and smoother instantly.
Because it’s made with pure minerals, you’ll find you need to use less – getting closer to that all-natural look you’re striving to achieve! Whether you’re trying to smooth out some minor imperfections or avoid using makeup that clogs your pores or causes a reaction, mineral makeup can do the trick. Skin Has a Natural Healthy Glow with Mineral Based Ingredients For basic skin care, add mineral foundation to your regime: many women have noticed that simply using the makeup contributes to their skin’s health. They say their pores look smaller, blemishes or roughness that had been caused by unknown allergies to other makeup products disappear and in general their skin looks better after having used the minerals for awhile, even when they aren’t wearing makeup. Mineral makeup doesn’t contain talc (a known irritant), other fillers, weird chemicals or added colors. Mineral cosmetics do contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, both minerals that provide sunscreen protection. Companies like About Face, Bare Essentials, Sheer Cover and Bare Minerals are providing women with cosmetics that actually improve the skin while improving the day to day look of the skin. Mineral makeup isn’t cheap, so if you aren’t sure what shade works best on your skin, try to get a sample size to take home and try in different lights. You may want to purchase two shades; one lighter and one darker, for contouring or mixing. For lightweight coverage, you’ll probably just need a foundation color and maybe a blush: for heavier coverage, choose a concealer to apply after the foundation. If you’re used to buying inexpensive liquid or cream makeup, you may be shocked at the cost of a good mineral makeup, but it takes awhile to go through it, and most customers find that it’s completely worth the price.
How to Apply Natural Makeup
Many women donâ€™t like to wear heavy makeup. Instead, they prefer a more natural look that shows off their natural beauty. Surprisingly, applying natural-looking makeup is more than merely limiting how much makeup you apply. A natural look has to do with how makeup is applied and what products are used. With the knowledge and the proper products, achieving a natural makeup look can easily be done.
By Jennifer Genna
Apply brown eyeliner. For a natural look, you want to use brown eyeliner as opposed to black eyeliner. If you have darker skin and dark hair you may want to use a dark brown. However, if you have light skin and light hair, you can use a lighter brown. Line your eyes with the eyeliner that best suits your features.
Apply foundation carefully. Whether youâ€™re wearing heavy makeup or light makeup, having smooth and even-toned skin will make any makeup look great. If you already have a clear complexion, opt for a tinted moisturizer as opposed to regular foundation. However, if you need a little extra help, use mineral makeup. Not only is it more natural than other products on the market, but if necessary, it can give adequate coverage. Use your concealer to cover up an imperfections and then apply your mineral makeup with a powder brush or a kabuki brush.
Step 2 Apply natural looking eye shadow. Depending on your skin tone, the eye shadow you choose may vary. You will want three eye shadows. The first one will need to match your skin tone exactly. The second shade will be slightly darker. The final shade should be lighter than the shade that matches your skin. Highlight your brow bone with the lightest shade and use the medium shade as a wash on your eyelid. Use the darker shadow to contour your eye or apply it in the crease of your eyelid.
Step 4 Apply a light or nude-colored blush. If you have dark skin, you are going to want to choose a deeper colored blush and if you have light skin, you need a lighter colored blush. Cover Girl True Match Blush is great for a natural look. You can find different shades in a variety of colors that suit many different skin tones. Apply the blush to the apples of your cheeks. If there are any harsh lines, use your powder blush to blend the makeup.
Step 5 Apply a nude-colored lip gloss. Choose a nude-colored gloss that compliments your skin tone. Light complexions look good with flesh-toned pinks while dark skin tones look good with mauves. Apply the gloss to your lips and rub your lips together.
Big, Bad and Beautiful
We take a closer look into this seasonâ€™s big, bad ass fashion trends. From feathers, to fake eye lashes, copious amounts of mascara, bold eyeshaddow, bright lipstick, and everything in between.
The Makeup Box
By Tammy Durant As many of you ladies out there know it takes a lifetime to find makeup products that work for you. Not only are we overwhelmed by choice but we also have to figure out what our makeup threshold is. For example, I’m just not that girl that spends hours putting on her face in the morning. Not only is that a heinous look but I just won’t spend that much time on makeup because I’d rather be doing other things. Also, I don’t wear foundation nor powder (you’re really not fooling anyone...you can see it) so here’s a short list of what I use and frankly, it’s true: Less is more.
powder but the concealer really is creamy and sits well when applied by dab dab dabbing your finger. • Best redness concealer - I love the colour red but not on skin: BenFit You’re Bluffing. • Best eyeliner: Estee Lauder Artist’s Eye Pencil in SoftSmudge Black.
• Best blush with staying power for dancing until dawn: Mac powder blushes - they last *forever* - I’ve had mine since fifth grade. • Best inexpensive lipgloss - it’s that perfect, almost natural lipcolour red and it feels gooooood: Revlon Super Lustrous Lipgloss in Cherries in the Glow.
• Best eyelash curler: Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler.
• Best for that pretty peach colour - super soft and great consistency: Chanel Glossimer in Sirop.
In order of application:
• Best mascara for fine, almost nonexistent lashes like mine and it won’t make you look like a whore although it’s possible I do and no one’s bothered telling me: Lancome Hypnose Mascara in Black.
• Best way to maintain lip colour during a long ceremony where you don’t want to reapply like your wedding - wear this on its own or add gloss or whatever on top: BeneFit’s Benetint.
• Post moisturizer primer-I love this stuff: Laura Mercier Foundation Primer.
• Best mascara if you have normal lashes: Maybelline Great Lash.
• Best undereye concealer: Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer Kit - I don’t use the
• Best blush - I’m all about sheer, sheer, sheer!: Tarte Cheek Stain in Tickled.
• Best cream eyeshadow that will last the entire day and night without creasing or disappearing (I used this and the two items above at my wedding): Mac Paints in Stilife.
Makeup techniques fo
or Televison and Film
By Nicola Graham Although people might think that makeup is reserved for people “who just want to look better” on TV or in film, in actual fact, makeup may be required to just retain a subject’s normal appearance. This is because the television and film processes to some degree can introduce (or make obvious) undesirable attributes to skin tones and features. As we noted in the information on digital camera setup, modern digital cameras have skin enhancing setup options that can reduce, but generally not eliminate, the need for makeup. In particular, they can appreciably smooth out wrinkles and conceal minor blemishes. Video engineers may not always want to apply these techniques, however, since they to some degree degrade optimum video sharpness, color, and quality. With the advent of high-definition television, the need for people skilled in the application of effective but subtle makeup has increased. As in most areas of television, makeup is an element that is best when it goes unnoticed.
Basic Makeup In both film and video work, makeup on the face and possibly even the body is needed – especially for people who will be on camera any length of time. For starters, normal skin contains a certain amount of oil that generally goes unnoticed until viewed in a closeup. This shine can be exaggerated by the heat of studio lights and personal tension. At the very least, subjects should use a face powder that matches their skin tone.
After this, we move to so-called basic makeup. For this, the skin should first be cleaned with mild soap or cleansing cream prior to the application of a makeup base or foundation. Both are available in either oil or water base, but the latter has the advantage of not requiring face powder. Before these are applied, it’s best to use an astringent to tighten facial pores and prepare the skin. A shade of base or foundation should be selected that matches the normal skin tones, unless the goal is to slightly lighten or darken all skin tones. In this case, it’s best not to go beyond two shades lighter or darker than the normal tone. There are about 20 shades available, but if for some reason the proper shade isn’t available, shades can be mixed to provide an in-between shade. A foam rubber sponge, which can be moistened slightly, is used to apply the base or foundation to the face, ears, and neck. With deeply tanned Caucasian skin tones it may be necessary to even out skin tones around the eyes or bridge of the nose. Other evidences of uneven tan, such as the halter strap marks over the shoulders of a woman, should be filled in so they blend with adjacent skin. Even right after shaving, dark-haired men will evidence “a five o’clock shadow” that can be reduced or eliminated by blending in the foundation or makeup base. If precautions are not taken, it is possible that makeup applicators can transfer skin bacteria or even a rash from one person to another.
To guard against this possibility disposable sponges, cotton balls or quilted cotton squares should be used. Makeup in containers can also be contaminated. To avoid dipping an applicator back into the makeup container many makeup artists use the back of their hands as a palette. Makeup brushes should be cleaned before reuse with hair shampoo or a commercial cleaner.
Lighting Considerations Makeup should always be checked, and if possible even applied, under the lighting that will be used in photographing the subject. Even when video cameras are properly color balanced, sunlight, incandescent, and fluorescent lighting will all affect subject matter in different ways.This consideration is particularly important with standard fluorescent light (if you can’t avoid that type of lighting) because these lights tend to be low in red light and high in green. Because normal skin tones contain a significant amount of green to start with, you may note obvious green skin tones under standard fluorescent light. The problem may be compounded if the makeup, itself, has green elements. This is just another reason that you should use a high-quality, properly color-balanced video monitor to check the results.
Concealing and Emphasizing Facial Features Through corrective makeup procedures it may be necessary to play down undesirable facial features and emphasize positive attributes through contouring and highlighting. In corrective makeup we are starting with the base or foundation and then blending in shades or makeup that are either darker or lighter. In contouring, a darker shade of makeup than the foundation or base is used to downplay features, such as a high forehead or an overly prominent nose. Contouring can also be used to bring out the classic jaw line that’s seen as desirable for women. In this case, a darker shade of makeup is carefully blended into the foundation or base. To achieve this “classic look,” the darker makeup will go from the chin line up to the earlobes and into the hollows of the cheeks. In highlighting, the object is to reverse this effect – to emphasize or pull the eye toward certain facial features or areas. In this case, use a shade of makeup that is lighter than the foundation or base. This approach should also be used in shadowy areas under the eyes and under the lower lip to keep them from looking unusually dark on camera. In the case of both men and women, color can be added to the cheeks by mixing a very light trace of rouge with the existing base makeup and then blending it in with a sponge.
After all this is done, it’s often necessary to use some transparent powder to dull down some (but not all) of the facial sheen. This is normally applied with a powder puff or soft bristled brush. Sometimes there will be light spots on the skin, due to aging or whatever, that can be covered with a tanning spray. Tanning Spray carefully painted on with a Q-tip. The spray rather than the lotion is best for this. Since it takes a number of hours – even up to a day – before the effect becomes noticed, this is a technique that definitely requires planning ahead. And, since results aren’t immediately apparent and last several days, you need to experiment with this technique well in advance of going on camera. However, once mastered, this represents a relatively inexpensive and convenient way of keeping this type of skin discoloration hidden. Prescription skin dye is also available, for this purpose, but it’s quite expensive.
Makeup Removal Women may prefer to leave makeup on after leaving the TV studio. Unlike stage makeup, it should be so natural looking that there should be no need to remove it, especially early in the day. Men, being a bit more sensitive to these things, will probably want to remove makeup with a cleansing cream or lotion. After removing makeup, women may want to use an astringent to condition their skin. Men can use aftershave lotion for the same purpose.