Emergent Denim Trends A/W 2012-13 An Analysis September 2012
WGSN Macro Denim Trends FITS ANALYSIS
WGSN Trends in Denim Fits
WGSN Trends in Denim Fits
WGSN Macro Denim Trends WASHES & FINISHES ANALYSIS
Macro Trend 1.1 : Archaic Finish - Unearthed Relics
Archaic denim harnesses both contemporary and long-forgotten techniques to create denim surfaces with unearthed and archaeological appearances.
Macro Trend 1.2 : Archaic Finish - Dusted Colour
Macro Trend 1.3 : Archaic Finish - Soot Coated
Coatings create a sense of long-forgotten denim relics unearthed in the desert, and soot caked and baked in the creases creates a sense of historical permanence.
Macro Trend 1.4 : Archaic Finish - Dimensional Wear
Macro Trend 1.5 : Archaic Finish - Dry Vintage
Primal materials and coatings explore this future-archaeology aesthetic as new sustainability advances allow for aged looks using less water.
Macro Trend 1.6 : Archaic Finish - Purple Fade
Celebrate early 20th century workwear with greyed-off purple casts and faded indigo herringbone.
Macro Trend 2.1 : Framework Finish - Abraded Bedford
Process and function is embraced in Framework, where original workwear constructions provide visual character and an ordered and honest simplicity. Worn and abraded bedford cord retains a vintage workwear aspect
Macro Trend 2.2 : Framework Finish - Open Canvas
A loose open-weave adds modern fluidity to hardwearing canvas constructions.
Macro Trend 2.3 : Framework Finish - Herringbone
Expose engineered linear patterns with herringbone construction.
Macro Trend 2.4 : Framework Finish - Clean Neppy Texture
Elevate the ordinary; maintain a refined, cleantextured appearance and a contemporary utility feel with neppy yarns and wintery flecked weaves.
Macro Trend 2.5 : Framework Finish - Salt & Pepper
Macro Trend 2.6 : Framework Finish - Linear Cross-hatch
Expose engineered linear patterns with crosshatch construction.
Macro Trend 3.1 : Post-Nature Finish â€“ Metallic
Post-Nature denim technology evolves as coatings are synthetically enhanced and modified. A laboratory approach is taken, as experimental finishes and new tactile surfaces are created. Washed metallic finishes offer a futuristic tactility.
Macro Trend 3.2 : Post-Nature Finish â€“ Coated Stretch
Fluid mercury inspires liquid-look coatings with enhanced-stretch capabilities
Macro Trend 3.3 : Post-Nature Finish â€“ Aged Leather
Aged leather look has cracked resin texture that mimics naturally worn surfaces.
Macro Trend 3.4 : Post-Nature Finish â€“ Dry-wax
Macro Trend 3.5 : Post-Nature Finish â€“ Engineered Performance
Coatings adapt and new intelligent ecoperformance blends are engineered for breathability, protection and warmth.
Macro Trend 4.1 : Rehab Finish – Dipped
A lively sense of optimism fuels Rehab’s quick-craft aesthetic. Denim surfaces are playful with naive scribbled and painterly markings, yet retain a refined quality through subtle and tonal colour usage. Indigo dip-dye produces individual ombré effects
Macro Trend 4.2 : Rehab Finish â€“ Weft Colour
Contrast weft yarns inject colour and a sense of fun to turn-ups.
Macro Trend 4.3 : Rehab Finish â€“ Re-spun
Recycled yarns create new flecked surfaces and melange textures, while reflecting economic thrift and an awareness of sustainability
Macro Trend 4.4 : Rehab Finish â€“ Hasty Repair
Macro Trend 5.1 : Sensorial Finish â€“ Brushed Back
Responsive threedimensional structures and unexpected touches inspire new luxury denim for autumn/winter 2012/13. Modern technological blends deliver performance with luxe comfort.
Macro Trend 5.2 : Sensorial Finish â€“ Peached
Surprising suppleness and softness emerge from a new generation of authentic denim.
Macro Trend 5.3 : Sensorial Finish â€“ Comfort Vintage
Velvety peached textures, downy brushed warmth and sleek satin finishes captivate us with unexpected tactility.
Macro Trend 5.4 : Sensorial Finish â€“ Sateen Stretch
WGSN Macro Denim Trends COLOUR & DETAILING ANALYSIS
Macro Trend 1.0 â€“ Eco Hedonism - Mood Board & Colours Eco Hedonism denim fuses the traditional with the technical, redefining heritage outdoorswear with a dark post-natural edge. Denim surfaces correlate with nature, inspiring tactile denim coatings and finishes for a dark futuristic aesthetic. Details include naively etched animalistic hardware and feral fur. Gold metals adds a streetwear edge to heritage styles. Waxy black and deep ink blue sit alongside contemporary neutral shades of rich ochre, flat greystone and burnt dark brown, while illuminated gold provides a seasonal highlight.
Macro Trend 1.0 â€“ Eco Hedonism - Detailing
Details are traditional yet advanced, redefining heritage outdoorwear with a dark urban edge. Neo-shamanistic totems resonate in naively etched and embossed hardware. Rediscover gold as a metal finish for a heritage look with a streetwear edge.
Traditional outdoors-sport influences have practical functionality through technical fastenings, waterproof taping and tough leather reinforcements. Vintage hunting shooting and fishing pieces inspire multiple pocket shapes and traditional contrast panelling.
Macro Trend 2.0 â€“ Radical Neutrality â€“ Mood Board & Colours Radical Neutrality is a progression into a world where opting out or taking a neutral standpoint are welcomed perspectives. Pared-back, androgynous styling is key as clean, technical materials and techniques combine with a contemporary, tailored aesthetic. Hardware has a minimal, practical feel as bonded seams and embossed hardware remove the need to stitch or print. Colour is stripped back to leave a concentrated colour residue or is built up in layers of intensity. Chalk white, clean grey-blue and cold slate shades are warmed with utilitarian winter stone and rich, saturated indigo. Soft coral provides a seasonal highlight.
Macro Trend 2.0 â€“ Radical Neutrality - Detailing Details feature modern technical constructions and materials with meticulous tailored aspects. A functional utility feel is introduced through tonal colour-blocked printing and refined modular pockets. Attention to detail is key, with coated drawcords, technical sports trims, bound internals and contrast linings.
Hardware has a minimal, practical feel as bonded seams and embossed hardware remove the need to stitch or print. Removal of patches and branding exposes untreated fabric and leaves a trace of what was there, creating a type of anti-branding in a radical statement of absence.
Macro Trend 3.0 â€“ Hyperculture â€“ Mood Board & Colours
Hyperculture creates a new visual order as heritage and aesthetic are mixed, merged and reinterpreted. A cross-cultural design ethos fuses and layers denim traditions, styles and icons, resulting in unexpected collaborations and thought-provoking combinations. Vintage American nostalgia informs palette and texture. Deadstock ecru and 70s red-cast indigo sit alongside faded military khaki and camouflage, while vibrant Mexican pinks and oranges and retro collegiate burgundy and mustard shades offer directional highlights.
Macro Trend 3.0 â€“ Hyperculture - Detailing Hyperculture details reference a diverse range of American culture, from playful 70s postwar peace movements to cheeky military customisation and nostalgic Deadstock Americana. Varsity sports is spliced with traditional Deadstock workwear or camouflage. Quieter details are not to be overlooked, as retro 70s hippy influences are pared back to simple selvedge rainbow stripes or clever upcycled hardware.
Embellishment and customisation is key, as surfaces are loaded with playful patches, vintage-inspired prints, retro pin badges and cultural embroideries.
Trade Show Trends COLOURS : FABRICS & WASHES : KEY ITEMS Source : WGSN
YELLOW A great autumnal colour, yellow continues to be favoured in golden marigold and mustard shades.
This rich colour works well for bottoms such as the five pocket jean, the corduroy trouser and the chino.
BORDEAUX Sophisticated wine shades remain a commercial hit. Bordeaux works well with vintage looks, as well as high gloss coated finishes. Think about developing the colour with purple-cast tones.
RED Ranging from bright orangecast tones to darker brickinspired shades, this colour works well for womenswear, and is great on skinnies and the chino.
RUST Rusty hues, of burnt and warm oranges complement this seasonâ€™s marigold, mustard and Bordeaux shades. A great transitional colour, it can be used as a rich autumnal alternative to lighter summer sand tones for bottoms.
Fabric & Wash
NEPPY Neppy qualities provide a tactile edge, particularly to menâ€™s denim garments, offering a workwear feel. Use melangĂŠ, marl, wool-look or multicoloured neps across both light and heavyweight denims as a subtle update for classic products.
Fabric & Wash
WORN Worn and repaired looks remain a favourite and brands are offering "vintage" contemporary product. Vacuum creases, surface abrasions and stained finishes all feature for an authentic wear-and-tear look.
Fabric & Wash
LIGHTWEIGHT AUTHENTICS Brands opt for cross-hatched and loose-weave chambray for a deadstock denim look. Use lightweight fabrics to give the utility trend a fresh look.
Fabric & Wash
COATED STRETCH Super-soft, smooth and with great recovery, coated stretch fabrics, have a shiny leatherlike surface, working particularly well for womenâ€™s skinnies and the classic jean jacket.
THE PATTERNED SKINNY Giving the skinny jean a new lease of life, brands update with all-over pattern. Motifs range from classic animal skin prints such as leopard and snake, to subtle florals and paisley patterns, as well as bold psychedelic prints.
THE LEATHERLOOK JEAN Great for womenâ€™s denim, particularly skinnies. Matt stretch coatings provide an almost-real leather look for jeans. Black, red, tan and light greys are popular colours for all-over treatments.
Catwalk Trends : Snapshot FITS : COLOUR & LAUNDRY : SURFACE Source : WGSN
Fits CAPRI PANTS
Colour & Laundry GREY ACID WASH
Heavily whitened finishes and highcontrast acid-washed black denim has a grungy look.
Dark gunmetal and subtle two-tone metal shades emerges as a new luxe direction. Try light metallic coatings on fluid denims to impart a liquid metal effect.
Metallics still rule as bronze emerges as a key new colour
Pillar-box red continues to make an impact in stretch leather-look coatings and brushed suede textures.
Colour & Laundry LUXE BURGUNDY
Burgundy remains a key colour for the denim market, with high-shine colour coatings, leatherlook finishes and metallics updating current garment-dyed coloured skinnies.
Deep green shades of forest and blue-toned jade emerge as a key new colour for metallic denim finishes.
Surface HOLOGRAPHIC SILVER
Holographic finishes emerge as an exciting luxe coating direction, updating popular metallic prints on stretch denims.
Velvet inspires plush denim surfaces
One of the most important fabrics on the catwalks, emerging in a variety of non-natural colours, from deep matt turquoise to khaki, perfect for updating current black leather-look coatings for stretch denim jeans.
Summarizing the Macro Trends FITS : COLOURS : FINISH
The Coloured, Stretch Leather Look emerges strong, with metallics, neppy and worn textures following closely CATWALK Coloured Leather
TRADE SHOW Leather Look
MACRO TREND Archaic – Unearthed Relic
Framework – Clean Neppy Texture
Post-Nature – Metallic, Coated Stretch and Dry Wax
Sensorial – Peached and Sateen Stretch
Rehab – Weft Texture