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Emergent Denim Trends A/W 2012-13 An Analysis September 2012


WGSN Macro Denim Trends FITS ANALYSIS


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WGSN Trends in Denim Fits


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WGSN Trends in Denim Fits


WGSN Macro Denim Trends WASHES & FINISHES ANALYSIS


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Macro Trend 1.1 : Archaic Finish - Unearthed Relics

Archaic denim harnesses both contemporary and long-forgotten techniques to create denim surfaces with unearthed and archaeological appearances.


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Macro Trend 1.2 : Archaic Finish - Dusted Colour


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Macro Trend 1.3 : Archaic Finish - Soot Coated

Coatings create a sense of long-forgotten denim relics unearthed in the desert, and soot caked and baked in the creases creates a sense of historical permanence.


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Macro Trend 1.4 : Archaic Finish - Dimensional Wear


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Macro Trend 1.5 : Archaic Finish - Dry Vintage

Primal materials and coatings explore this future-archaeology aesthetic as new sustainability advances allow for aged looks using less water.


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Macro Trend 1.6 : Archaic Finish - Purple Fade

Celebrate early 20th century workwear with greyed-off purple casts and faded indigo herringbone.


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Macro Trend 2.1 : Framework Finish - Abraded Bedford

Process and function is embraced in Framework, where original workwear constructions provide visual character and an ordered and honest simplicity. Worn and abraded bedford cord retains a vintage workwear aspect


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Macro Trend 2.2 : Framework Finish - Open Canvas

A loose open-weave adds modern fluidity to hardwearing canvas constructions.


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Macro Trend 2.3 : Framework Finish - Herringbone

Expose engineered linear patterns with herringbone construction.


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Macro Trend 2.4 : Framework Finish - Clean Neppy Texture

Elevate the ordinary; maintain a refined, cleantextured appearance and a contemporary utility feel with neppy yarns and wintery flecked weaves.


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Macro Trend 2.5 : Framework Finish - Salt & Pepper


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Macro Trend 2.6 : Framework Finish - Linear Cross-hatch

Expose engineered linear patterns with crosshatch construction.


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Macro Trend 3.1 : Post-Nature Finish – Metallic

Post-Nature denim technology evolves as coatings are synthetically enhanced and modified. A laboratory approach is taken, as experimental finishes and new tactile surfaces are created. Washed metallic finishes offer a futuristic tactility.


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Macro Trend 3.2 : Post-Nature Finish – Coated Stretch

Fluid mercury inspires liquid-look coatings with enhanced-stretch capabilities


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Macro Trend 3.3 : Post-Nature Finish – Aged Leather

Aged leather look has cracked resin texture that mimics naturally worn surfaces.


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Macro Trend 3.4 : Post-Nature Finish – Dry-wax


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Macro Trend 3.5 : Post-Nature Finish – Engineered Performance

Coatings adapt and new intelligent ecoperformance blends are engineered for breathability, protection and warmth.


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Macro Trend 4.1 : Rehab Finish – Dipped

A lively sense of optimism fuels Rehab’s quick-craft aesthetic. Denim surfaces are playful with naive scribbled and painterly markings, yet retain a refined quality through subtle and tonal colour usage. Indigo dip-dye produces individual ombré effects


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Macro Trend 4.2 : Rehab Finish – Weft Colour

Contrast weft yarns inject colour and a sense of fun to turn-ups.


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Macro Trend 4.3 : Rehab Finish – Re-spun

Recycled yarns create new flecked surfaces and melange textures, while reflecting economic thrift and an awareness of sustainability


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Macro Trend 4.4 : Rehab Finish – Hasty Repair


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Macro Trend 5.1 : Sensorial Finish – Brushed Back

Responsive threedimensional structures and unexpected touches inspire new luxury denim for autumn/winter 2012/13. Modern technological blends deliver performance with luxe comfort.


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Macro Trend 5.2 : Sensorial Finish – Peached

Surprising suppleness and softness emerge from a new generation of authentic denim.


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Macro Trend 5.3 : Sensorial Finish – Comfort Vintage

Velvety peached textures, downy brushed warmth and sleek satin finishes captivate us with unexpected tactility.


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Macro Trend 5.4 : Sensorial Finish – Sateen Stretch


WGSN Macro Denim Trends COLOUR & DETAILING ANALYSIS


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Macro Trend 1.0 – Eco Hedonism - Mood Board & Colours Eco Hedonism denim fuses the traditional with the technical, redefining heritage outdoorswear with a dark post-natural edge. Denim surfaces correlate with nature, inspiring tactile denim coatings and finishes for a dark futuristic aesthetic. Details include naively etched animalistic hardware and feral fur. Gold metals adds a streetwear edge to heritage styles. Waxy black and deep ink blue sit alongside contemporary neutral shades of rich ochre, flat greystone and burnt dark brown, while illuminated gold provides a seasonal highlight.


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Macro Trend 1.0 – Eco Hedonism - Detailing

Details are traditional yet advanced, redefining heritage outdoorwear with a dark urban edge. Neo-shamanistic totems resonate in naively etched and embossed hardware. Rediscover gold as a metal finish for a heritage look with a streetwear edge.

Traditional outdoors-sport influences have practical functionality through technical fastenings, waterproof taping and tough leather reinforcements. Vintage hunting shooting and fishing pieces inspire multiple pocket shapes and traditional contrast panelling.


Macro Trend 2.0 – Radical Neutrality – Mood Board & Colours Radical Neutrality is a progression into a world where opting out or taking a neutral standpoint are welcomed perspectives. Pared-back, androgynous styling is key as clean, technical materials and techniques combine with a contemporary, tailored aesthetic. Hardware has a minimal, practical feel as bonded seams and embossed hardware remove the need to stitch or print. Colour is stripped back to leave a concentrated colour residue or is built up in layers of intensity. Chalk white, clean grey-blue and cold slate shades are warmed with utilitarian winter stone and rich, saturated indigo. Soft coral provides a seasonal highlight.

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Macro Trend 2.0 – Radical Neutrality - Detailing Details feature modern technical constructions and materials with meticulous tailored aspects. A functional utility feel is introduced through tonal colour-blocked printing and refined modular pockets. Attention to detail is key, with coated drawcords, technical sports trims, bound internals and contrast linings.

Hardware has a minimal, practical feel as bonded seams and embossed hardware remove the need to stitch or print. Removal of patches and branding exposes untreated fabric and leaves a trace of what was there, creating a type of anti-branding in a radical statement of absence.


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Macro Trend 3.0 – Hyperculture – Mood Board & Colours

Hyperculture creates a new visual order as heritage and aesthetic are mixed, merged and reinterpreted. A cross-cultural design ethos fuses and layers denim traditions, styles and icons, resulting in unexpected collaborations and thought-provoking combinations. Vintage American nostalgia informs palette and texture. Deadstock ecru and 70s red-cast indigo sit alongside faded military khaki and camouflage, while vibrant Mexican pinks and oranges and retro collegiate burgundy and mustard shades offer directional highlights.


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Macro Trend 3.0 – Hyperculture - Detailing Hyperculture details reference a diverse range of American culture, from playful 70s postwar peace movements to cheeky military customisation and nostalgic Deadstock Americana. Varsity sports is spliced with traditional Deadstock workwear or camouflage. Quieter details are not to be overlooked, as retro 70s hippy influences are pared back to simple selvedge rainbow stripes or clever upcycled hardware.

Embellishment and customisation is key, as surfaces are loaded with playful patches, vintage-inspired prints, retro pin badges and cultural embroideries.


Trade Show Trends COLOURS : FABRICS & WASHES : KEY ITEMS Source : WGSN


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Colours

YELLOW A great autumnal colour, yellow continues to be favoured in golden marigold and mustard shades.

This rich colour works well for bottoms such as the five pocket jean, the corduroy trouser and the chino.


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Colours

BORDEAUX Sophisticated wine shades remain a commercial hit. Bordeaux works well with vintage looks, as well as high gloss coated finishes. Think about developing the colour with purple-cast tones.


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Colours

RED Ranging from bright orangecast tones to darker brickinspired shades, this colour works well for womenswear, and is great on skinnies and the chino.


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Colours

RUST Rusty hues, of burnt and warm oranges complement this season’s marigold, mustard and Bordeaux shades. A great transitional colour, it can be used as a rich autumnal alternative to lighter summer sand tones for bottoms.


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Fabric & Wash

NEPPY Neppy qualities provide a tactile edge, particularly to men’s denim garments, offering a workwear feel. Use melangÊ, marl, wool-look or multicoloured neps across both light and heavyweight denims as a subtle update for classic products.


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Fabric & Wash

WORN Worn and repaired looks remain a favourite and brands are offering "vintage" contemporary product. Vacuum creases, surface abrasions and stained finishes all feature for an authentic wear-and-tear look.


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Fabric & Wash

LIGHTWEIGHT AUTHENTICS Brands opt for cross-hatched and loose-weave chambray for a deadstock denim look. Use lightweight fabrics to give the utility trend a fresh look.


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Fabric & Wash

COATED STRETCH Super-soft, smooth and with great recovery, coated stretch fabrics, have a shiny leatherlike surface, working particularly well for women’s skinnies and the classic jean jacket.


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Key Items

THE PATTERNED SKINNY Giving the skinny jean a new lease of life, brands update with all-over pattern. Motifs range from classic animal skin prints such as leopard and snake, to subtle florals and paisley patterns, as well as bold psychedelic prints.


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Key Items

THE LEATHERLOOK JEAN Great for women’s denim, particularly skinnies. Matt stretch coatings provide an almost-real leather look for jeans. Black, red, tan and light greys are popular colours for all-over treatments.


Catwalk Trends : Snapshot FITS : COLOUR & LAUNDRY : SURFACE Source : WGSN


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Fits CAPRI PANTS

STRETCH FLARE

BOYFRIEND JEANS

WIDE LEG


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Colour & Laundry GREY ACID WASH

Heavily whitened finishes and highcontrast acid-washed black denim has a grungy look.

GUNMETAL

Dark gunmetal and subtle two-tone metal shades emerges as a new luxe direction. Try light metallic coatings on fluid denims to impart a liquid metal effect.

LIQUID METAL

Metallics still rule as bronze emerges as a key new colour

RED

Pillar-box red continues to make an impact in stretch leather-look coatings and brushed suede textures.


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Colour & Laundry LUXE BURGUNDY

Burgundy remains a key colour for the denim market, with high-shine colour coatings, leatherlook finishes and metallics updating current garment-dyed coloured skinnies.

FOREST

Deep green shades of forest and blue-toned jade emerge as a key new colour for metallic denim finishes.


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Surface HOLOGRAPHIC SILVER

Holographic finishes emerge as an exciting luxe coating direction, updating popular metallic prints on stretch denims.

VELVET

Velvet inspires plush denim surfaces

COLOURED LEATHER

One of the most important fabrics on the catwalks, emerging in a variety of non-natural colours, from deep matt turquoise to khaki, perfect for updating current black leather-look coatings for stretch denim jeans.


Summarizing the Macro Trends FITS : COLOURS : FINISH

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The Coloured, Stretch Leather Look emerges strong, with metallics, neppy and worn textures following closely CATWALK Coloured Leather

TRADE SHOW Leather Look

Patterned

Neppy

Worn

Coated

Holographic Silver

MACRO TREND Archaic – Unearthed Relic

Framework – Clean Neppy Texture

Post-Nature – Metallic, Coated Stretch and Dry Wax

Sensorial – Peached and Sateen Stretch

Rehab – Weft Texture


Emergent Denim Trends - A/W 12-13