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@<A=".+(%B(*C; @B&$,&%)#(7/(1*$1D$0$+&0,&#;;; The Fashion Journal Publishing Co. encompasses the niche market of fashion publishing. From fashion catalogues, to brochures, to flyers, trade publications and Web sites, TFJP takes the full initiative in making sure that these projects look great. By allowing TFJP to take on the brunt of the work in marketing and producing for our clients, we relieve them of the responsibility that comes with creating, printing and distributing a publication or developing an online presence.

!"#$%&#'()&%$(*)+",&-$."/$0#&$*1/$+(2(/&,$/13 1 1 1 1 1 1 Design & Production Maintaining relationship with prepress house/printer Working with Creative Director on design/layout Dealing with all printing-related issues such as page count, color and size Making schedules and delivery dates for publication distribution Dealing with all other production procedures that might arise

4,,(/(1*0+$5&#'()&%$61#$57&)(0+$5&#'()&%83 TFJP is also a full service Web site publishing house. Our web services include but are not limited to:

1 Flash Web site design & development 1 ECommerce web development 1 Revamps of already established sites 1 Online portfolio development 1 Web Marketing/ Optimization [2]

w. e. p. 347.240.4461 [3]

The Baroness Duchess satin Dress w. pockets/Ink $350


FREEDOM IS EXPRESSION model Isabel Sebastian photographed by Nicholas Lapite


EDITORS PICKS Of course we snuck in our favorites...why wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t we?


TFJ OBSESSIONS: ACCESSORIES We rediscover jewelry in the worldly sense. From the naturally occurring and understated, to the monochromatic and the bold


GAMMA PLAYER A Chicago boutique presents the universe at night


SHORTY CLOTHING Inspiring effortless glamour



NORTH BY NORTHWEST model Joanna Hattison photographed by Nicholas Lapite








on the cover: designer: Victoria Keen photographed by: Malgorzata Saniewska Model: Alena Balykova

072 [5]


THE MAKING OF A MASTER PEICE Shoe designer Amy Castle through the eyes of Nicholas Lapite

publisher_ tfj publishing editor-in-chief (new york)_jennifer gesimondo creative editor-in-chief (new york)_ petra vincent creative director (london)_nicholas lapite

Š2008-09 The Fashion Journal is published (4) four times a year by TFJ Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from an authorized signatory of The Fashion Journal, LLC. The views expressed in The Fashion Journal are those of the respected contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. The Fashion Journal welcomes new contributors, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, illustrations, etc.

The Fashion Journal, LLC 244 5th Avenue, P201 New York, NY 10001 347_240_8426



CATHARINA EDEN reconizing success


FORWARD PR A professional intermediary between all facets of the fashion world


EZINMA MBONU by photographer Rebecca Harman


AELISHEVA introducing designers Sanja Jovanovic and Alyse Radenovic


WHERE TO GO a list of great boutiques we feel are worth mentioning


joy & pain Putting a magazine together isn’t easy. Don’t ever let anyone tell you otherwise. ‘Setback’ is the word i’m most familiar with, these last few months. But i wouldn’t trade the experience, because it has shown me that in order to grow in your field, you need to experience the joy and the pain, in equal measure. This issue takes on a new direction and format, as our evolution continues, but our focus still remains. To push through new talent in a way not seen before. Lets try and put an end to ‘..who you know..’ and take a closer look at ‘..what you can do..’ Enjoy this issue.

Nicholas Lapite



welcome to chicago With much toil and energy, we have completed TFJ-Issue 2, but honestly, it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t an easy task. There have been many changes made to TFJ-New York within the past 2 years, which have added to our struggle of producing the magazine that we love to produce. For one, I moved to Chicago -- not as fashion-intense as New York, but creative, just the same. In moving to Chicago, I was nervous that my thought-processes of how fashion should be celebrated would seem esoteric and boring to the average person here. However, I was met with nothing but interest and helpful suggestions on how to add life to a constantly growing pop culture in the Mid West. So, by forging ahead and putting myself out there to speak to, and listen to, the burgeoning designers here, we have fallen in love with, (and lusted), after some of the best and brightest designers in Chicago, and in some cases, the world... Truth be told, fashion is everywhere. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t measure it in mass proportions, just accept it for what it is -- or, in some cases, Where it is.

Jen Gesimondo Editor in Chief


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from the editors


We just had to share these fabulous pieces with you! Pricey or not, our Editor’s Picks will have you wanting more...


Subversive® for Target® Bee Lucite Hinge Cuff Bracelet - White, $14.99;

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Victoria Keen’s maroon dress; available at www., please visit for pricing.



Citrine and Turquoise Earrings. Sterling silver open-filigree earring posts adorned with a cascade of smoky quartz, gem-quality citrine and turquoise, suspended from sterling hammered oval link chain $48.00; www.

5+&(,$er Print Tee; availavle in V-Neck All Ov lors. $82.00; five different co m. co www.gypsy05.



0-,D'E"-61'+"%// Turquoise and teal strappy dress is perfect for anything. $242.00;


3"#441-'5#""-67/8' black & silver 5.5â&#x20AC;? $68 ; www.


Bone Earrings 2. This design can be worn either way, thru the ear. Inserting this design into the back of the ear lobe, $56.00;





Made from canvas covered in black and gold Bourdon cord lace $120.00;

The cute new dutchy coin purse with rose appliquĂŠ is the perfect spot to put all things small. $68.00;

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Lightweight jersey fabric. Ruffle neckline. Ties at the shoulders. Elastic waist. Loose at the hips. Low cut v-neck line. Falls at the knees. $37.00;

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Available in beige with pale blue diamond brocade, as shown; $160.00, visit [15]




KEEN A Mixing of Style and Presence...


Victoria Keen, (a New York transplant from California), has been designing clothing for five years now, working with natural fibers and unique combinations in order to create a collection that is organic and comfortable.

large role in my work. The subconscious, ritual and ancient arts, nature in all its imperfect perfection, the architecture of the city layers upon layers, colors and time blending together are reflected in my work as well.”

After moving to New York in 1998, and earning a degree in Textiles Design at Parsons School of Design, Victoria considers herself to be self-taught and not theoretically trained in Fashion Design.

Doing everything from the design to the fittings, overseeing the entire production to the PR and sales work, creating the basic design, costing sheets, printing, running the store, etc, time is sparse for Victoria.

“People automatically assume that textiles and fashion are one and the same,” she said, “but the two are much like architecture and interior design; related but completely different. When I started my business, I had never designed clothing before, or done fashion production work, so needless to say I had to learn fast.” Considering her original prints to be her main signature, the ‘butterfly’ logo which appears often, is the most recognizable and according to Victoria, most symbolic self-portrait that represents the eyes and creative vision. “It is a mirrored image representing my Gemini nature and the balanced duality of life,” Victoria said. Inspired by designers such as Tsumori Chisato and Jun Takahashi of Undercover, Victoria admits that things often inspire her on an abstract level. “My inspiration IS the imagination,” she says. “Symbols, mythology and the galaxy play a


in an art book called “New York Downtown Style,” which was published in Taiwan and the top selling art book for a while. Some other publications are: Daily News, Japan Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Fader Magazine, The Hamptons and Time Out New York. “I ONLY wear the clothing and products I make,” Victoria said, “and that is also why I make such

“People automatically assume that textiles and fashion are one and the same...but the two are much like architecture and interior design; related but completely different.”

“I am also constantly designing,” she said. “It is a very organic process. Since I produce everything here, I can whip out ideas all the time as they come. This doesn’t just apply to clothing. I designed four organic perfumes which are unusual and exotic combinations of the highest quality essential oils.”

Aside from designing, Victoria has also been featured on: Plum TV’s “Get In” with Alli Joseph and “Sorry, Haters” with Sandra Oh; Brooke Burke and a few contestants wore her clothing on INXS Rockstar; a segment about her store and lifestyle concept was aired on TBS which was originally filmed by Extra; Mezamashi TV, a very popular show in the U.S. for Japanese community, (the equivalent of Good Morning America), featured her line; and she was published

a range of products, from my underwear to my bags down to my little change purse, and even perfume now. I am going to make socks shortly and the list keeps growing.” In 2-5 years Victoria hopes to open at least two to three more stores; 1 in LA, 1 in Tokyo, another NY. “I will definitely have a lot more product by then,” she says, “at least everything will be more concrete - the home aspect will be established with the wallpaper, window treatments, and the furniture. The perfume line will by then include a whole range of

organic hand made body care. I will definitely have the children’s, maternity, and men’s line in full swing. I hope to eventually include food into my line as well.” Victoria sells her line at Ananda Yoga in the Hamptons, Exhale Spas in NY and LA, La Prairie Spa at the Ritz Carlton Cayman Islands, Yoggi Studios in Tokyo and Claire Joseph in LA. Victoria’s line can be seen in “New York Downtown Style” and at 357 Lafayette St, New York, NY 10012, between Bleecker and Bond streets and as well as at





GIGER 02 Artist_Amanda Yuen Inspired by_HR Giger’ “...A collection, playing with lots of gathers and prominent strips..”





Tara Lynn []



Tara Lynn’s jewelry is smart, glamorous and eclectic. Her handmade selection of oneof-a-kind necklaces, earrings and bracelets offer a vast array of choices for all tastes. She has refined her craft of design – from earthy to elegant, delicate to dramatic and funky to frivolous. Paying special attention to detail, like unique clasps and multi-colored pendants found in New York City’s fashion district, Tara Lynn offers pieces that add a burst of color and contrast to a white T-shirt, but are also elegant enough to be worn with a cocktail dress. According to Tara Lynn, jewelry is more than an accessory, it is an expression of the individual wearing it. “My primary goal is to continue to create quality pieces that are as beautiful and unique as my customers,” Tara Lynn said. WHY BUY HANDMADE? “The answer is simple. It is yours, and yours alone. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in my designs are just a couple of things that make my jewelry stand out from the crowd. The colors, shapes and patterns are meant to compliment your own unique style and personality and not just follow the trends. Nowhere else will you be able to find what Tara Lynn has to offer, because my unique personality and personal vision is such an integral part of my work.” -Tara Lynn [24]

Spring / Summer 2007

Fever is available nationwide through John Lewis, independent boutiques, the Fever shop and To find your nearest stockist 020 7636 6326.[25]

sass & bide eyewear

sass & bide join forces with leading eyewear distributor, blur optix, to launch the label's exclusive first eyewear collection. The concept of the premium eyewear collection came to life when Sarah Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton were aproached by Joshua Malta of blur optix in 2005. The association brings together the adept technical design of blur optix, and the imaginative and contradictory aesthetic of sass & bide, to create a superior eyewear collection. Labeled "sass & bide eyewear,â&#x20AC;? the 38-piece range is handcrafted in Italy using the finest acetates and nickel-free metal to frame famed Carl Zeiss lenses. "We really wanted the range to be noticeably superior which has been facilitated through use of quality materials, details and finishes,â&#x20AC;? says Josh-



ua Malta of blur optix. Joshua has worked closely with the design pair, ensuring the collection reflects the contradictory yet feminine aesthetic that sass & bide is recognised for. Sarah-Jane Clarke says, "introducing eyewear as part of the sass & bide brand has always been something Heidi & I have wanted to do and having blur optix to work with really gave us the time to focus on the creative. It was bound to be the next step in the continuing evolution of sass & bide.â&#x20AC;?

Revisiting seventies glamour, oversized frames such as the "rive gauche" and "crown" are off-set by a strong colour palette including crystal grey and olive green which are beautifully balanced by classic black and tortoise shell. While "manes" and "velvet" offer a unique take on 1950's styling with exaggerated cateye frames modernised with a colour mix including translucent red and the honey havana. The subtle etched and embedded branding adds to the relaxed luxury of the range and each piece is boxed in Italian leather casing.




Melissa Needle Cates, owner and creator of Needle by Needle, recently began designing scarves that are rich in colors and are able to be worn in a variety of ways. She compliments the unpredictability of the fabric by adding texture and details to the traditional wool such as knitting cotton and cashmere together with leather, satin, velvet, lurex and ribbon. Each of Melissa’s scarves can be worn in multiple ways for functionality and originality. Needle by Needle is currently being sold in Henri Bendel and in Charlotte Ronson’s flagship store in New York City.


Elegant, rustic and extraordinarly unique, Jannie Baltzer’s new collection of perfectly sculptured jewelry, (100% handmade by Jannie herself), is a beautiful conglomerate of finds from nature combined with spatula-shaped lace, leather, freshwater pearls, mother-of-pearl and Swarowski crystals. In a beautiful balancing act between the rustic and the delicate, Jannie has elegantly combined the materials into an ornamental and almost dreamlike whole of rare beauty. The inspiration for her jewelry comes partly from nature and partly from the costumes of ballroom dancing in which Jannie earlier had a professional worldwide career. Her favorite material to work with is leather, which can be formed into many different shapes and is easy to work with. Simple, poetic, and uniquely beautiful, Jannie’s new collection, simply called ‘Leaf,’ was inspired by a tree in her native Scandinavia.




Yes, this city is known for more than just wind, deep-dish pizza and Wrigley Field. It’s home to the latest accessory designer, Sage Rubin, whose been fine-tuning her designing skills for more than four years now. Sage, a self-taught jewelry maven, has attained instant success with her signature “Flower” necklaces, able to be doubled and tripled for maximum appeal. These necklaces, consisting of different flower colors and sizes as well as different beads, have been drawing much attention in the fashion community.



“I love it when I can find things directly from nature such as raw stones, pearls and coral and use then in my designs.” -Susan Suh This amazing jewelry designer was born in Seoul, Korea raised in Northern California and now resides in New York. Her jewelry is delicate and feminine which has become her signature style. Her materials include 18K wire, precious and semi-precious stones. some of her inspirations come from fashion designers like Coco Chanel and Cristobal Balenciaga. Susan enjoys translating fashion designs into jewelry. Nature also inspires her a lot. You can find her creations at theSubdivision boutique in Long Island City, Queens and at Trunkt in lower Manhattan.



Making of a MASTERPIECE by nicholas lapite

I recently had a conversation with my Grandmother about her life. The things sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d done, plces sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been. I was soon to doscover that she had been a shoe maker of some pedigree. Whilst engaged in conversation i began to think about the art and mind behind creating the Shoe. Everyday item, or modern day materpiece. As fate would have it, in the coming days I am asked to shoot the collection for rising shoe designer Amy Castle, which i gladly accept and swiftly arrange to meet with her at her workshop in East Loondon.



ucked away in the anonimity of a residential street, I find an inconspicuous steel gate, ring the buzzer, and enter into a world far more complex than I had first imagined. Whether it was ignorance, or sheer stupidity, but I had never given much thought to the process involved in making a pair of shoes. [32]

I had visions of a basic patern being fed into a machine and click clunk later, out pops a pair of shiny shoes. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;..Maybe in some quaters..â&#x20AC;&#x2122; quips Amy, a brghtly dress and slighty off the wall cobbler. You see this is the boutique world of fine couture shoe making.

The surroundings are not filled with hundreds of 9-5 workers, nor are there thousands of shoes being produced per hour. The rusting staircase to the entrance is quaint, and the workspace even quainter. but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a real sense of pride in this space, and dedication, and that what iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m interested in.

To shoot Amyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection, i first need to understand the process, inspiration and personality behind the brand. Cue Amy Castle, with a little prompting from me.


TFJ: Amy Louise Castle works under the design pseudonym CALI & CALE. But who exactly is Amy Castle. And why Cali & Cale. AC: The name is a representation of my ethos on design in combining elements of feminine and masculine to create something balanced and aesthetically pleasing. The names themselves derive from letters of my own name and have the following meanings. ‘Cali’, of Greek origin, is said to mean “most beautiful,” and ‘Cale,’ to mean bold; is derived from the English surname Charles, so I think this perfectly describes what my design eths is all about. TFJ: You’re about to launch your first collection, but you’ve also been quite busy with your studies. Tell me a bit about how you’re designs have developed during the past 12-18 months. AC: In my 3rd year I took a year out to work in Industry. During this year I worked for several companies in different offices and visiting different factories. I finally spent last summer working as [34]

an assistant shoemaker in a tiny workshop in East London. Here we put together samples, created catwalk collections and took on very small lines of production. I learnt a great deal here; vital rules and the basis of good practice in shoe making. I was able to continue to develop my own work and realised that I was educating my own designs by understanding a spectrum of different shoe constructions. TFJ: Your shoes. Tell me a little more about their characteristics. They have their own names don’t they? AC: Not one shoe was the same, and the belief of the shoemaker was that most things were possible. I bought my own old Singer post sewing machine and tucked it away in a corner. TFJ: Your collection, Femme Fatale, is a fun collection of very individual styles. Each shoe with it’s own personality. What was the inspiratbehind it’s conception?

AC: The basis of the femme fatale collection is luxury, vintage, and erotica. The collection inspirations include; seamed stockings, lip gloss, vintage underwear, Dita von Teese, naughty stories, masquerade balls, Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new look, illustration, watching people, friends, tradition and innovation. The shoes show an elegance and beauty of traditional shoe making; vintage lines combined with modern colours, leather and hardware. The mix of old and new ideas further show my desire to create balance using contrasts. This small collection of shoes and boots are a connected group of individuals, each with their own name and personality. The shoes have playfulness to them, they are not too serious and are to be worn, lived in and loved. The Bettie shoe for example shows bold contrast within the combination of the silver hardware; dangerous spikes down the t-bar front and a buckle carrying a heart charm that releases the foot.

The range shows a variety of styles and influences; from erotica, with a nod to fetish; and others with more innocent characteristics. Femme Fatales from past and present have been used as inspiration to create designs for the collection. For me, a Femme Fatale is deceptively seductive and carries an air of mystery. I want my shoes to carry that same aura. I have to confess that my fascination and appreciation for the shoe and the shoe maker has grown immensely. Cali & Cale is a brand based on strong ideals, tradition and style. The femme fatale collection is sexy and stylish, but also functional. So much so in fact, that I could imagine them on my fairly wide hobit feet. With each pair tailred to the needs of the individual, it is clear that the driving force behind the brand is not just to make amazing shoes, but to also make a client feel amazing from the moment they commission the design, to the moment they walk away in their new Cali & Cale.


ADAM + EVE [36]

!"#$%&'(#)*#$+,$&'-"! Gamma Player,

By a Brilliant New Chicago Retail Concept Offering Exclusive European Clothing


Upon entering Gamma Player, experience quiet black walls and gorgeously-stained dark wood accompanied by soft neon whites. The curve of a mannequin and the flash of a graceful belt say that something different is happening here. The wide sweep of an A-line skirt, the glimpse of silk under a blazer belies the initial impression that the store is an art gallery and the clothes, the installation.

Details such as bits of bone in a bracelet, exquisite lace on a dress, perfect piping on a blazer, and a crisscross of hand tanned leather on a belt catch the eye. These are the offerings of Gamma Player: European brands such Aviu from Milan, Firma from Berlin, Julius from Tokyo and Midnight from Hong Kong. Each item is hand picked from around the world and brought back for the discerning Chicago clientele.

Mesmerizing rhythms from international music celebrity, Jeff Mills, fill the air. The welcome is warm and without pretense. A welcome normally reserved for celebrities and world travelers.

Access to over twenty other exclusive fashion and accessory designers are available, many for the first time in the United States. Items have been created exclusively for the Wicker Park boutique through the relationship the Gamma Player owners developed worldwide.

This is the standard the rest of the world has come to expect of the husband and wife team of Mr. Mills and Ms. Uozumi who built a world class record label, Axis, from the ground up. Axis Records releases futuristic, experimental sounds which continue to influences producers on a worldwide scale. Mr. Mills also plays a pivotal role driving trends throughout much of Europe by spanning multigenerational artistic mediums – one week he may be found in the hottest nightclub in Berlin, the next playing with the Philharmonic in the South of France. Gamma Player provides new territory in which to express his artistic vision. Ms. Uozumi brings the savvy-ness and creates relationships to take his vision and turn it into reality.

Each season, the experience of Gamma Player will change to reflect the collection of new and emerging European brands. Clothing items range from haute couture to ready-to-wear pieces for men and women. Spring/Summer 2008 season the boutique reflects “Species” – The realms of a particular type or breed.. Gamma Player is located at 2035 West Division. Store hours are Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. until 7 p.m. and Sunday, 12 p.m. through 5 p.m. Phone number is 773-235-0755. Personal shopping and gift certificates are available. For more information, visit

!"#$%&'())*""+,-&$())!'.#,#%"() )) [38]

Since opening its door in March of 2007, Gamma Player has met and served Chicago’s most fashionconscious and has worked with some of Chicago’s most talented artists, photographers, stylists, models and designers. These creative exchanges are essential to the growth of Gamma Player as it searches out for the best ways to relay the ideas and concepts of each designer they carry. Through the frequent in-store installations and miniature expositions of art entitled “Fashion Loves Art,” it enables to blend the two mediums for the common goal of progressive expression for living. The latest version of “Fashion Loves Art” featured a Japanese artist, Momoko Saito from Chicago, and her installation entitled “Falling Mercury.” In our ever-expanding Universe, the movement of rouge solar particles have found their final destination. Saito painstakingly configures sheets of aluminum to resemble individually illuminated alien rocks and boulders descending to the surface of earth.

Showroom art installations directed by co-owner Jeff Mills, featuring local and national artists, supports the individual and collective concepts of many of the fashion collections and has now become widely known and expected in and around our Chicagoland area. Shown now, is an elaborate wall installation of a colony of paper Butterflies in flight, and a vintage poster collection to compliment a new concept clothing line by 24/7, inspired by the legendary magician, vaudevillian, and true innovator, Harry Houdini. For the upcoming Autumn/Winter season, Gamma Player will feature Tatsuya Shida from Japan, Vladimir Karaleev from Bulgaria, who will be exclusively introduced to U.S., and Julius, another Japanese brand which has cult followers all over the world, among other designers such as Pauric Sweeney, Hussein Chalayan and Risto Bimbiloski.





Effortless Glamour. Isn’t that what every girl wants? This is the mantra of the new clothing line SHORTY CLOTHING, out of the windy city of Chicago, and a look at the all/holiday ‘08 collections promises all that and more. Founded by Catherine Hudon, Janna Boyd, Sophie Lin and Chalcea Park, ShortyClothing aims to be a lifestyle brand for the modern woman: urban, successful, independent, strong-minded and yes, very glamorous. As all the founders are of Asian heritage, some very classic elements of the old world are mixed in with dashes of Hollywood glam and a smirk to the 80s as well. “We keep our Asian background and traditions close and

weave that with all-American aspirations, energy and modernism to create a signature style that speaks to both worlds,” says Sophie Lin, one of the designers, who studied at Parson’s in Paris as well as the Chicago Art Institute. “Our vision is to make form and function collide in a gorgeous way.” The Fall/Holiday collection features well fitting, fun and flirty pieces inspired by the Korean traditional dress, the Hanbok, with names such as The Piano Recital (a darling cocktail dress Audrey Hepburn would have cherished), The Maiko (a luxe Asian inspired 3/4 length wrap jacket), and The Liza (a delicately ruched fabric skirt that would be perfect for that business trip



The Gigi: Duchess satin Blouse/ Wheat Gold $150 shown with The Liza: Thai silk w. silk chiffon overlay Skirt/Plum $160


to LA). The Shorty Clothing brand covers all the bases. Many of the pieces have great little details, such as capped pockets or are fully lined. The perfect Shorty fan is someone who believes in investing in quality pieces, yet knows the value of an outfit that can go from day to night. She has taste and style, is educated and opinionated, technologically savvy and thoroughly modern. “When a woman wears Shorty Clothing, she should feel gorgeous, glamorous, and totally put together,” explains Janna Boyd. “The brand illuminates the essence of who she is – it’s a lifestyle, a way of being, a vanity affair.”

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Shorty Clothing plans to have a multi-media launch for their online botique this fall. It is important to the founders that the clothing be accessible to everyone,

especially the busy urban workaholic/socialite. “Technology and high fashion are both all about the bleeding edge,” adds interactive creative director Joie Mikitson. “It's hard enough to excel at one, but we aim to master both and show how amazing it can be when they work together, one pushing the other to new innovations.” Learning much by their combined online shopping experiences, this site aims to be easy to use, first and foremost. It will be a destination page not only to see the new collections, but it will be interactive. Customers can upload photos of their pieces with their own accessorized touches. In the end, Shorty Clothing believes in being more technologically forward than any designer brand out there. Moreover, the “effortless glamour” girls will also be featured in Chicago’s Gen Art Fresh Faces Fashion Show,

9/3/08 11:44:


The Coco: Duchess satin Dress w. pockets/Ink $325

the event that launches Chicago’s Fashion Focus Week on October 1st, 2008. Gen Art, founded in 1993, is a wildly popular arts organization that brings high concept fashion, film, music and visual art to an accessible showcase. It has launched the work of fashion designer Zac Posen as well as countless other young artists of every discipline. For Shorty’s Spring collection, which will be showcased here, “Bohemian Jet-Set Glam” is the theme. The designers are mixing East Indian textiles with colonial touches such as gold hardware, collars and floral accents. “I’m really attracted to rough and smooth, the yin and yang take to esthetics,” says Janna Boyd. “I love the utilitarian, functional detailing of a military garment and fusing it with the silhouette of an Indian tunic.”

The launch party for the Spring collection, featured a raffle of one of the collection’s dresses, and part of the night’s proceeds went to Dress for Success – a charity that provides low-income women with interview suits, confidence boosts and career advice in over seventyfive cities worldwide. This mission too is very important to the Shorty crew. As well as donating money to this organization, Shorty is also!"#$%&'&($!"#$%&&'&()* conscious of the world’s clothing market practices and sees itself as an advo!,%&&'-.'/0#1%)&23+1'456 cate for the greater fair trade movement. In turn they &$0,)8#90)$*+:.#0; pay fair wages to their workers and all Shorty’s pieces are made in the U.S.A. You can find Shorty in select major retailers and boutiques this fall as well as online at by the end of October.

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NORTH BY NORTHWEST photographs by Nicholas Lapite

Where do we find our inspriations. For many of us, there is no inspiration, because we don’t look. Often we see what’s in front of us in any one direction, but we fail to consider what lies between. It’s the “what lies between” that counts. The less obvious, in that angle between clarity and clarity. That moment of inspiration that is guided by a subtle touch. The pleasure between the kiss and the caress. Whether creating for a client or for self, you must strive to connect with that hidden part of your being that sets apart true creation from repetition. Let go of your experience, let youth inspire you. Allow the child inside to have a voice and listen to it, then tell me what you see. What more experieinced eyes choose to ignore, will set your imagination free, and then you’ll see yourself, for the first time again.


Diversity with one goal

Colour Production

Colour Production

Colour Production The Basement, 180 Drury Lane Covent Garden, London, WC2B 5QF Tel: +44 (0) 207 098 5742 Fax: +44 (0) 207 430 0314 Web: Email:



stylist: Jaye @ Betts model: Joanna Harrison @ I0 MM make up: Bonnie Yip @ Samuel Cole hair: Pinar


!"#$"%&'"()*)'+ RECOGNIZING SUCCESS [50]



has learned to perceive her success the way she perceives life -- as a welcome challenge. Not only is she an accomplished designer, but a smart women with distinctive taste. Her clothing is a blatent variation of femininity in every sense of the word. Using decadent fabrics and portraying lavish styles, Ms. Eden is able to grasp the concept of success very easily. I recently had the pleasure of interviewing Catharina and here is what she had to share:

+,-../00( 10( 234-5( 647( 84-( 9/:./1;/( 15( 2<=( 647( 7/>>( 84-( .49/( 7156( </7( 015-2514<0?+ Give me some background about your life... Okay. I was born and raised in Finland, but I am also half British, and I have been designing my own label for 5 seasons. Did you study Design at school? I studied fashion design in Finland. I took a four year course after which I went on my own in London. I have worked at Alexander McQueen and Ben de Lisi, where I learned vital skills that I am grateful for to this day. Would you call designing your passion in life? I’ve always been very interested in clothing and remember sketching from a very early age. But it was after a course at Central Saint Martin’s school of Art and Design in London where I realized that this is exactly what I wanted to do. What’s the first thing you designed? When I was about nine years old I designed a very colorful jumper. Before that my drawings of clothing were not aimed directly for production. Do you have a signature? Clean lines and femininity. Subtle colours.


Has your endeavors in design been worthwhile? Everything has gone very smoothly and felt natural. Time seems to loose its importance when all that you have done so far has been a pleasure and utter joy. I never really had any struggles as such. Success is about how you perceive it and how well you cope with new situations. For me struggles are more like challenges and I like challenges. Do you have a favorite material to work with? My favorite fabrics are silk-satins and woven fabrics with a bit of give to them. I do not use prints almost at all, since I like creating the intrigue of each design through the balance of cut and fabric. My colors are mainly black and hues that can be found in nature. Which designer inspires you? Most definitely Donna Karan. Where do you gain inspiration? Nature, architecture and the women wearing my clothes. Do you sketch your designs before you make your line? It is very hard to say how many sketches I make in a week or any other time period. All that I count are the finished designs; everything else ends up in the bin. I am very ruthless in that respect. At the end of a sketching period I collect the designs I like and start making them into a line. This is another ruthless time.

Have you been featured in any publications, TV shows, etc…? I have been in many. In Finland, I have been on national television and live on radio. My garments have been featured in almost all fashion publications over there and numerous magazines have made interviews about me. I have also been featured in Sweden. In the UK I have been featured in numerous magazines and on the internet in What is the name of your current collection? I name my collections as well as individual garments with codes. Like my current collection is AW08. Who has been a big influence in your life? My family. They are the backbone for achievement. Where do you see yourself in 2-5 years? I see my label having its own flagship store in London. I sell from selected boutiques in London and in the capital of Finland, Helsinki.


CANCER Artist_Amanda Yuen Inspired by_Astrology “ Every page represents a type of people and also the story behind them. ..” [54]

FORWARD PR forward pr, founded and directed by Courtney Blackman, acts a professional intermediary between press, stylists, and both established and emerging top talent; providing excellent customer service in regards to information requests, sample loaning, and anything in between. Forward pr represents a variety of extremely talented designers, which are showcased within the next few pages. For more information on foward PR and designers please visit:



LeJu is a fusion of two talents: Lenny Trines, a Dutchborn jewellery designer, and Juan Munoz, a Londonbased businessman from Colombia. The two met in Barcelona and knew immediately that they had something special. “I saw how passionate and gifted Lenny was in creating jewellery using Vegetable Ivory and knew I had found the perfect product to start a fashion-focused and eco-friendly jewellery label in Europe.” It was in South America that Lenny discov[56]

ered her natural talent and creativity by working with various artisans and learning different techniques. She is truly inspired by the natural world stating, “I work with a product that has a wonderful purpose, which is to help stop the killing of elephants to obtain ivory. Moreover, it is 100% sustainable and its quality is superb. I try to create designs, which reflect its roots. Nature is full of wonderful colours and I use them to reflect it in people’s lives.” Lenny honed

her jewellery-making skills through various workshops and courses and her work has gone on to gain exposure in assorted magazines including Drapers, in the UK. Lenny has over 10 years of experience in the retail industry and holds a diploma in Business and Administration from ARCUS College in the Netherlands. Juan Munoz is the business side of LeJu and is responsible for the global management of the company. He works with LeJuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ever-growing list of worldwide buyers, manages the accounts, and carefully selects which trade shows LeJu will participate in. Juan came to England in 1990, and earned a degree in Business Information Technology from the University of Westminster. He worked as a telecoms engineer for four years and then set off to rediscover his home continent of South America in search of unique products that he could take back to Europe. LeJu is fast becoming a leader in ethical and sustainable jewellery world and their stylish designs are already garnering the attention of fashion editors, celebrities, and consumers who demand their accessories make a positive difference to the planet.

featured peices: Opposite page: Flora Necklace ÂŁ122.00 This page: LeJu Scarlet Necklace ÂŁ103.00 [57]

FORWARD PR Louis Mariette

Inspired by the enchantments, exoticism and beauty of nature, Louis Mariette, the milliner who was catapulted to legendary status after creating the most expensive hat in the world, the “Chapeau d‘Amour,” a stunningly dramatic headpiece valued £1.5 million, has launched a diffusion line of head pieces and accessories for the indulgent, modern lady. The collection will be complemented by a new “Bejewelled headpieces and accessories” Web site and striking new brochure. Mariette discovered his calling after being appointed to design a 25-piece collection for a Milanese fashion house. He went on to create his


own bespoke range and in 2006, The Tanzanite Foundation awarded Mariette with the Celebration of Life Jewelery Design Award in the Fashion Accessories category, and he’s been crafting masterpieces, like the famed “Princess Neptune” headpiece ever since. Mariette’s passion for colour and sparkle, and innate ability to pick up on a woman’s aura, enables him to instantly dream up a creation in his mind that perfectly suits her - whether she chooses to be flamboyant, chic, or demure. Bejewelled includes headbands, tiaras, hatpins, brooches, bracelets and necklaces and all are adorned and encrusted with signature Louis Mariette diamante crystal, which come in 38 tantalizing colours such as Black Diamond, Capri Blue and Smoke Topaz. The explosion of iridescent colours and dazzlingly surreal shapes have caught the eye of a host of celebrities including Sophie Dahl, Jerry Hall, Alek Wek, Isabelle Kristensen, and Jodie Kidd. The famous Louis Mariette atelier is based off of London’s fashionable Sloane Square, where appointments may be made, and visitors can step in to another world, escaping to the ultimate lavish couture experience. Prices range from £15 - £1,300

FORWARD PR Nikki Galloway Hailing from a small town just outside of Glasgow, Scottland, Nikki Galloway’s draw to jewelery reaches back to her childhood where she spent days with her mother, just looking and searching for beautiful gems, charms and adornments. A little something dangling from the ear, a statement necklace, or an heirloom bracelet all held equal fascination for Nikki, as did the prospect of transforming an outfit into something special with a small but significant detail. The natural progression for Nikki was to study jewelery design, and that’s just what she did. After earning a degree in jewelery design from Central St. Martins College of Art in 1996, Nikki sold her collections via independent galleries throughout the UK. Embarking on a bold new venture after a year of wholesaling, Nikki set up a market stall in Central London. She built up a solid client base, but after three cold winters without a roof and the threat of snow, Nikki did something even more daring - she had wondered upon the quaint Mayfair square called Shepherd Market. As if it were meant to be, a retail space was available and Nikki spent her savings on the deposit and signed up for a year-long lease.

Long story short, over five years have passed and her boutique, Nude Jewellery, has gone from strength to strength. Along with Nude Jewellery, Nikki has been involved in a slew of achievements. The award-winning designer has worked on commissions for the Sultan of Brunei, she has made bespoke jewellery for catwalk shows, she stocks both her own boutique as well as other boutiques in the UK and abroad, and has collaborated with renowned British shoe designer, Georgina Goodman. Nikki’s own style is contemporary and she tends to work with sterling silver. She also likes working with leather, perpex, resin and semi-precious stones, and of course gold, diamonds and other precious stones when creating pieces for weddings or red carpet events. She is inspired by fashion and jewelery from the 1960s and draws inspiration from this era, transforming the ‘60s vibe into modern, contemporary creations. Spheres and circles have become a signature throughout her collections.

Prices range from £19 - £2,375



Muks, a London-based footwear and accessories brand, was introduced to the UK in 2004 by Canadian-born, Jaime Cooke, and has expanded each year to offer new collections to its global customer base. Muks prides itself on using 85% biodegradable materials and its links with Canadian Aboriginal culture. Muks works closely with its Aboriginal-owned manufacturer in Canada and all hand-beading is done on a fair trade basis. Muks also donates a percentage of its profits to CAHRD, Canadian Aboriginal Human Resource Development, a non-profit organisation that aims to help Canadian Natives retain their culture while also aiding integration into mainstream life. The Autumn/Winter ‘08/’09 collection will be stocked at Harrods, Selfridges and Liberty through Kurt Geiger; at Macy’s and Neiman Marcus in the US; and at luxury retailers worldwide.


The collection has been divided into three distinct labels: Gold, Black and Green. Gold Label The Gold Label offers the height of luxury with a glamorous range of knee-high Numtijah boots in lavish furs including blue fox, raccoon and Mongolian lamb. A subtle colour palette of brown, black, grey and white with shearling linings make these cool-weather styles irresistible. The Gold Label also offers a brand new accessories range including luxe fur gilets lined in printed charmeuse; leather mitts topped with rabbit or coyote fur; a fur handbag/hand warmer; and a vintage-inspired aviator hat in rabbit and cashmere, made in collaboration with celebrated New York milliner Albertus Swanepoel, whose clients include Marc Jacobs, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler.

Black Label is the original Muks with trademark side pompoms, Ankle Muks, and new Half Muk boots are available in a range of colours including black, chocolate and charcoal grey suede with coordinating rabbit fur. New for this season is a selection of boots trimmed with colourful embroidered braids which perfectly complement Muks trademark beading - hand-crafted as always, by Canadian Aboriginals. Green Label The Green Label is brand new for the AW ‘08/’09, offering a fur-free option for Muks Original, Ankle and new Half Muk styles using the highest quality faux fur. The fur-free styles are available in black or rich chocolate and feature the same authentic Aboriginal hand-beading as the Black Label.



Nude Jewellery, a chic, edgy Mayfair boutique, has been tucked away in Shepherd Market for over five years and has celebrated appearances in over 100 publications worldwide. Nikki Galloway, Managing Director/Owner and renowned designer in her own right, states, “Five years on, I’m still really enjoying myself and the whole feel of the shop is more grown up, but in keeping with the core contemporary roots. I’m busier than I have ever been, and look forward to what the next five years will bring.” Nikki is a trained Central St. Martins jewellery designer who designs and creates her own ranges to complement the fashion calendar. She also leads a team of experts in the design and creation of bespoke jewelery for engagements, weddings, red carpet events, birthdays, special occasions, and conducts regular


jewelery courses in the shop’s basement studio. Nude stocks nothing except the best in contemporary jewelery, and specialises in finding unique pieces from hard-to-find and established designers on a local, national and international level. The shop also stocks select ranges from British favorites, with Nikki handselecting the best of the best, personally interviewing each designer, giving careful thought to her insistent Mayfair clientele, and to how the collection will sit alongside and complement the other designers’ work. Designers include Shaun Leane, Jody Cornett, Tataborello, Jean-Marc Rentsch, Tufi Patah, Modi Pagani, Anna Hiscock, Julian Stephens, Ring Leader, and Loekie Heintzberger. Prices range from £50.00 - £5,000.00.


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Assistant. Owen Green aka Blue Hair & Make Up. Harsha Chavda Models. Carly Taylor @ Take 2 & Angela Reynolds @ Storm Ezinma Mbonu.





Designers_“Sanja” Zivka Jovanovic & Alyse Radenovic Brand_aelisheva Where are you from and how long have you been designing? Sanja is from Paris and Belgrade has been designing for about 25 years; Alyse is American and has been designing for about 15 years. How did you begin designing? Sanja sewed her first dress by hand as a teenager, Alyse did too. Sanja graduated from design school, Alyse did not go to design school. What is your signature? People tell us that they like our work because it looks unusual and distinctive yet has a fairly classical cut and clean line. We do a lot of detail work, appliqué and embroidery. It is important to us that the styles are actually flattering to many types of real figures, and that that the dresses are very comfortable to wear. We use all types of fabrics as long as they are high-quality and tactilely very pleasant. We pay a great deal of attention to detail - our pieces are durable and perfectly constructed. The dresses are a joy to see, touch, and wear, and they make the wearer feel beautiful.




!"#$%&'$&$()#&*$+#&,$-.$ &**#/*0-/$*-$+#*&0,$1$-2)$ %0#3#4$&)#$+2)&5,#$&/+$ %#).#3*,'$3-/4*)23*#+67$ Has the designing process been an easy/ difficult for you? How long was your process from beginning as a designer, to where you are now? Counting from the beginning, before the label started, it took maybe 5-10 years to perfect the work; our work as a brand has been very good for the past several years. Do you design seasonally? We design when we are moved to do so, when there is time, when there is demand. Do you sketch your designs first? Yes, we sketch at least 100 a year, then, because our dresses are handmade one-of-a-kinds, we will often do several dresses which are variations of the same sketch or variations of earlier dresses. What is the name of your current collection? We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t name them, we just number them they are not collections in strictest sense of the word. Where do you see yourself in 2-5 years? I am not sure about the next 2-5 years. We sell our dresses in a number of American boutiques and also on the web.



where to go GERMANY best shop Alte Schoenhauser Str. 6 Berlin, Germany lala berlin Mulackstrasse 7 Berlin, Germany overkill shop Köpenicker Str. 195 a Berlin, Germany über warenhaus Auguststr. 26a Berlin, Germany

LONDON all saints 5 Earlham Street 020 7379 3749 almost famous 3-4 Percy Street Fitzrovia, London antoni & alison 43 Rosebery Avenue Clerkenwell, London austique 330 Kings Road Chelsea, London


cochinechine 74 Heath Street Hampstead, London coco ribbon 21 Kensington Park Rd Notting Hill, London duffer clothing 29 Shorts Gardens Covent Garden, London hoxton boutique 2 Hoxton Street Shoreditch, London jezebell 59 Blandford Street Marylebone, London kj’s laundry 74 Marylebone Lane Marylebone, London labour of love 193 Upper Street Islington, London madfashionbitch 67 Columbia Road Shoreditch, London maison martin margiela 1-9 Bruton Place Mayfair, London

b store 6 Conduit Street Mayfair, London

matches 85 85 Ledbury Road Notting Hill, London

belle 20 College Approach Greenwich, London

mirage 193-195 Brompton Rd Knightsbridge, London

birdcage 8 Upper St Martin’s Ln Covent Garden, London

nancy pop 19 Kensington Park Rd Notting Hill, London

browns focus 38-39 South Molton St. Mayfair, London 020 7514 0064

oki-ni 25 Savile Row Mayfair, London

one 30 Ledbury Road Notting Hill, London

detail by akira 1904 W. North Ave. Chicago, IL

pop boutique 6 Monmouth Street Covent Garden, London

niche 1566 north damen Chicago, IL

shop at maison bertaux 27 Greek Street Soho, London start 42-44 Rivington Street Shoreditch, London

p.45 1643 north damen ave Chicago, IL

NEW YORK annie o. 105 rivington street New York, NY

superlovers 64 Neal Street Covent Garden, London 020 7240 5248

azalea 223 e. 10th street New York, NY

the cross 141 Portland Road Holland Park, London W11 4LR

bad dolly 278 Mott Street New York, NY

the laden showroom 103 Brick Lane Shoreditch, London

blibetroy 100 Stanton Street New York, NY

the pineal eye 49 Broadwick Street Soho, London

blue lotus 226B West 37th Street New York, NY

the world according to... 4 Brewer Street Soho, London


caravan 2 great jones street New York, NY

151 boutique 151 Main St Los Alto, CA

cloth 138 Fort Greene Pl. Brooklyn, NY

backspace 351 Divisadero St San Francisco, CA

dear fieldbinder 198 Smith St. Brooklyn, NY

some odd rubies 1937 1/2 hillhurst ave Los Angeles, CA

edge*nynoho 65 Bleeker Street New York, NY


eggplant 85a Orchard Street New York, NY

city soles 2001 w. north ave Chicago, IL

ekovaruhuset 123 Ludlow Street New York, NY

Gamma Player 2035 West Division Chicago, IL

femmegems 280 Mulberry Street New York, NY

mini mini market 218 Bedford Ave. Brooklyn, NY

somebody like us 174 ludlow street New York, NY

frock vintage 148 Orchard Street New York, NY

noisette 46B N. 6th St. Brooklyn, NY

sweet riot 116 W. Houston 3rd Fl New York, NY

itsasickness 132 ludlow street New York, NY

nom de guerre 88 N. 6th St. Brooklyn, NY

sweet tater 280 mulberry street New York, NY

johnson 179 Orchard Street New York, NY

pear of shoes 124 Ludlow Street New York, NY

tahir boutique 75 Orchard St New York, NY

lola y maria 175 Rivington Street New York, NY

peggy pardon 153 Ludlow Street New York, NY

lolli by reincarnation 85 Stanton Street New York, NY

pixie market 100 Stanton Street New York, NY

maiden brooklyn 252 Grand Street Brooklyn, NY

plum 124 Ludlow Street New York, NY

market.63 49 East Houston Street New York, NY

showroomseven 117 east 7th street New York, NY

good/ bad & the ugly 85 kenmare street New York, NY trunkt 393 Greenwich Street New York, NY victoria keen 357 Lafayette St New York, NY

where to buy: or nyc location 357 lafayette st.; 24_tara lynn handmade originals; 26_sass&bide eyeware; 28_knit scarves and more; 28_jannie baltzerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extraorindalu unique peices; 29_susan suhâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delicate peices; 31_Cali&Cale Shoes email:amy. or call +44 7879 441601; 41_shortly clothing; 50_catharina eden catharina.; 56_le ju; 58_louis mariette louismariette.; 59&62_nikki galloway; 60_muks; 73_Aelisheva;

yoko devereaux 338 Broadway Brooklyn, NY If you would like to be added to our print directory or know of a boutique that we should list please feel free to contact us at:


standard bedroom

Millennium Hotel London Mayfair 44 Grosvenor Square Mayfair, London W1K 2HP For reservations call:+44 (0)20 7596 3170 quote Summer Package

Issue 1, Volume 2  

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