Page 1

Volume 3 | Issue 1

April - June 2014 | Volume 3 | Issue 1 | Pages 80 3 1 / 43707 ISSN NO.: 2278-8972 | RNI NO.: MAHENG / 2012


²ⁿ International Exhibition & Conference

Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India


JUNE 5-6-7 2014

Anniversary Issue

Value addition, Driving force for textile industry




Every Products is designed & made specic to our customers need for the highest weaving speed avialble to day is pojectile or air Jet or Repier or water jet Plot no. 65 Block No. 65, At & Po. Mota Borasara, Tal. Mangrol, Dist Surat ( Gujarat) India Ph. : + 91-2621-234365 / 712, E-mail:,, Website :


“ KEY” brand is the weaver’s rst choice for the healds and drop pins for high speed & Quality weaving

“Study the past, if you would define the future.” – Confucius. Value Addition, Driving force for Textile Industry...!!! We are glad to present the April- June 2014 issue of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN, the central theme of which is “ Value Addition”


he basic difference between consumer product and non-consumer product is that a manufacturer of the former has to be on he guard all the time to make more and more attractive changes in the consumer product primarily though value addition and innovation. At the entry stage, there is a good scope for value addition. In the case of cotton, options are to produce organic cotton, coloured cotton extra-long staple cotton, etc. In the case of man-made fibres including filaments there is no limit on value addition. In fact, with the help of technology, it is possible to have man-made fibre fabrics which look like pure silk and breathe like cotton. Viscose fibre is another charming area for value addition. All manufacturers at immediate stages must endeavour and graduate to the next stage of manufacture in the value chain. A spinner must aim at entering the business of weaving. A weaver should acquire processing machinery and market processed fabrics. Besides, manufacturers at intermediate stages can do substantial value addition, keeping the end product the same. For example, a spinner must attempt interlay of different fibres, processes, twists etc. A weaver in turn has to make optimum use of different types of yarns. Processing has numerous opportunities for value addition and such scope increases with every new scientific development in the field of processing. The scope for value addition at the stage of garments is wide open with infusion of fashion into its making. No wonder value addition at the last stage is immense. Every progressive textile industry must have value addition on its top agenda. Second Anniversary of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN On the occasion of Second Anniversary of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN, we express our gratitude to our readers, advertisers, wellwishers and subscribers for the support given to us, which has emboldened us to fight the challenges for a successful run of the magazine. It is your support and co-operation which is the backbone of the success of this magazine. The objective of this magazine is to bring the textile fraternity together through information, articles, and exchange of views. We have also taken upon ourselves the duty of placing the problems of the industry before the authorities. In this context we welcome suggestions and comments from all our readers and well wishers to improve the utility of this magazine and help the industry to win international race for supremacy in textiles.

FEEDBACK CORNER Hearty congratulation to you and your team for the 2nd Anniversary of Textile Value Chain magazine. Magazine covers the whole gamut of textile industry from bre to nish and has excelled in quality of articles, printing as well as presentation within a short span. Wish you're a bright future for the magazine. Dr. M. K. Talukdar, Vice President – Kusumgar Corporates

If I compare the rst with the latest issue of Textile Value Chain, the standard of the Magazine has grown by leaps and bounds. The quality of articles have exhibited a process of growth. The magazine strives to give authentic and latest data of the Textile, Apparel Industry. Many new authors have started contributing besides the old who continue. It is a good mix of articles from academic and industry. The magazine has amalgamated many spheres of Textile & Apparel Industry. Besides the content the quality of paper and printing has improved. I wish Happy Anniversary to Textile Value Chain. My wishes for it to become one of the best journals in the eld. May it gain status internationally. Dr Ela Manoj Dedhia, Asst. Prof., Nirmala Niketan College of Home Science

Heartiest congratulations on anniversary issue..!!! I still remember the day when you came in as a new magazine struggling for capturing textile jargons and meanings... Slowly and steadily you have developed yourself into a mature journalist in the textile industry by really adding "value" into it... You have taken holistic approach of giving justice to each and every aspect of textile value chain and there you are different and I salute the difference... Well done and keep it up !!! Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

I am pleased to note that Textile Value Chain has completed two years of its existence. I am associated with it almost from the beginning. The tri-monthly issues contain wide variety of information. It gives news related to textile industry in brief from different sectors such as government, corporate, international, etc. It is providing platform for different segments of textile sector to spell out their problems and even recommend possible solutions. If only our planners can give sometime to go through these and try to adopt some of the recommendations, our textile industry can reach new heights. One more thing which I like about the TVC is that it is encouraging technical articles also. This way it is trying to bridge the gap between research and industry. In my opinion whatever laboratory level research is available, at least 10 % of it has the potential to become commercially viable. But for that industry should come to know about all the research that goes on in our Indian institutes and university departments. I hope TVC's readers who are mostly from industry will be able to benet from these articles. My best wishes to TVC for its future and hope that it will be playing a big role in improving conditions of all the stake holders in textile value chain. Dr. Rajan P. Nachane Retired Principal Scientist and Head, QEID, CIRCOT

I would like to express my comments, this magazine covers basic/grass root level issues & topics. Information provided by it also unique and different. Textile Value Chain covers totally all the segments of textile industry, giving insight & valuable information on the conventional/ non conventional & latest technologies related to the machines & components, man power & raw material.

Shri N.D.Mhatre Director General (Tech) Indian Textile Accessories and Machinery Manufacturers Association (ITAMMA)

Heartiest congratulations to you and team of Textile Value Chain magazine for completing two years successfully. It is never easy to take a fresh guard and start new magazine in the already well established and matured Industry. I have witnessed the progress right from beginning and amount of efforts put in by you. You have been covering various aspects of entire value chain of textile Industry as well as keeping readers up to date with latest happenings about policies, developments etc. I wish you and entire team of Textile Value chain all the best for future and I am sure you would continue to share and upgrade knowledge of readers and make their reading experience enjoyable !!! Mr. Prashant Mandke, Founder of Soham Enterprises


Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Editorial Advisor Shri V.Y. Tamhane Chief – In – Editor Ms. Rajul J. Shah Graphic Designer

4-16 04 06 12 13 15 16 18

Feedback Corner Thanks from TVC Fashion Forecast News : Association News : Corporate News : International Corporate Profile- Welspun

Interactive Technology Advertising & Sales Md. Tanweer

52 Company exhibited products in Fibre and Yarn Exhibition, Mumbai SHOW REPORT


55 GTTES 2015

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel Joint President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Mr. Aditya Biyani Marketing Director, Damodar Group Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing),Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM- RSWM ( LNJ Bhilwara Group)



18-19 COVER STORY : VALUE ADDITION Views of Consultants : 21 Gherzi India Organization 23 Wazir Advisors 24 Technopak Consultants 25 Suvin Advisors 26 Views from Industry

56 Non Woven Tech- Asia 59 ITMACH Bhiwandi 2014 60 National Seminar: Advances in Ginning and Fibre Testing Technology 61 Infashion 2014 & TEXPROCIL Seminar in Shanghai 62 ITAMMA Catalogue in Guntur + CITI’s Textile Investment Conclave

Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala Mr. Ashwini Misra Mr. Rahul Mehta Mr. Nitesh Kothari


HOD knitting, SASMIRA , Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College

65 Hometex Panipat

Dr. Mangesh D. Teli

65 ITMACH Ahmedabad 2014

Professor, Ex.HOD & Dean ICT (former UDCT)

66 Technotex, Mumbai

Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay

68 SRTEPC Exhibition in Colombia

Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION Mr. Avinash Mayekar MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd. Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce

Mr. Jaykrishna Pathak President,Bombay Yarn Merchant Association & Exchange Ltd.

Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA

21-27 ARTICLES: 28 Fashion in eyes of Indian Rayon 33 Appeal for Banana fiber Usage 34 Water free Nano Finishing of Textile using Plasma 35 Building Sustainable Value Chain Is it a Choice or Compulsion? 39 Green Fashion : Only Survival of Society, The Business too… 43 Value Addition in Textile Engineering industry 45 Is there a Life for the Textile industry without TUFS ? 49 Certification Standard: STEP & GOTS 50 Skill / HR Focus : Employee Relationship Management

69 TAI Platinum Jubilee Celebration REPORTS: 68 Market – Colombia 70 Economy 71 Yarn – Export in March 2014 72 Fabric Variety / Price 75 Household Consumption Survey, by Textile Committee 76 Upcoming Trade Show Details


THANK YOU VERY MUCH ‌ For Trus ng & Suppor ng us in our 2 years journey..!!! With your trust we climbed slowly a step ahead.‌!!! New Beginning; As now, We are not only Publishing Company but also Digitally we promote you & your company with your unique iden ty through our Online Global Portal, www.tex


AUTHORS : We thank the Authors who have contributed knowledgeable, meaningful articles in 2 years journey; your small contribution made Textile industry a step ahead..!! Thanks for sharing your views, thoughts, research work, review and more. We wish your long term support to us, make our industry more productive, informative, research oriented, technological ahead and being a no. 1 industry across the world. As a development, now your article will be available not only on our Online Global Portal,, but also some of application which can be used in latest smart phones / tablets, where you can see comments, number of people viewed your article, liked , many more.

INTERVIEWER Thanks for sharing your views, thoughts about industry. Your views are highly appreciated and well respected by industry contributors. · Damodar Group · Vama Fabrics · Mr. Chandresh Dedhia, Mr. S.N. Todi - Bombay Rayon Mr. B.V. Doctor, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia & Team, NIRMALA NIKETAN college of · Gujrat Ginners homescience · Mr. Yogesh Kusumgar - Kusumgar Corporates Ms. Raju Bha a, B.D. Somani college · Mr. Jayprakash Chiripal - Chiripal Group Ms. Sarita Joshi, SASMIRA · Mr. Sandip Agarwal - SVG Fashions Dr. KRK Iyer, TEXTILE COMMITTEE · Mr. Rishab Jain - Rishabh Metals & Chemical Dr. Ulanganathan, TEXTILE COMMITTEE · Shri S.Dinakaran - SIMA Ms. Bhavna Rawat, NIFT · Mr. Navneet Gupta, SEL Manufacturing Prof. N.S. Kazi, SASMIRA · Mr. Ganpat Jain- Raj Rajendra industries Mr. C.N. Sivramkrishnan, Consultant · Mr. Vithl Jadahv, Pra bha Construc on Mr. Kalyan Roy, Punjab Technical University · Mr. Prabhakaran, Realiza on Technologies Ms. Charushila Garat, Yavatmal – Women's Polytechnic Mrs. Sarah Nigam, Fashion Designer · Mr. Rakesh Valecha, INDIA Ra ng Dr. Nachane & Team, CIRCOT · Mr. Subodh Rai, CRISIL Ra ng Dr. Cha opadhyay & Team, CIRCOT · Mr. Milind Gadkari, CARE Ra ng Dr. M.D. Teli & team, ICT · Mr. Mohan Kavrie, Supreme Group Mr. Ajay Sharma, RSWM · Mr. Harish Bijoor, Branding Consultant Mr. Chaudhry & Rajsinghani, VJTI · Mr. Rajesh Gawade, Interna onal Caliber Mrs. Neera Baruah & team, SVT College of Homescience · Mr. R.K. She y / Mr. Ravichandra, IOB Bank Mr. G. Bannergy, Consultant · Mr. Nilay Rathi, GM- Commercial Mr. Avinash Mayekar, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. · Mr. Ramesh Podar & Mr. Surendra She y, Siyaram Silk Mills Mr. Manish Nangia, NIFT – Delhi OW ORGAINSERS Mrs. Suman Mundkar, SVT College of Homescience

AUTHORS : · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

Mr. Kir Shah- Tex le World Mr. Anil Kumar, Great Sports Infra Dr. Sabita Baruah, SVT College of Homescience Mr. Sunil Hada & team, TRADC, Birla Mr. Sharad Tandon, Stadon Consul ng Mr. Anup Kumar, Style Globe trend Forecaster Dr. V.K. Batra, Panipat Ins tute of Eng. & Tech. Mr. Naresh Mistry, ITMMA Dr. Adivarekar & Team, ICT Shri S. Hari Shankar, TMMA Ms. Rena Mehta,NIFT Kangra Dr. Ritu Dewan and Team, Mumbai University Mr. K. Chakrawarthy, Thermax Mr. Chakrabarthy, TMMA Mr. Navdeep Sodhi, GHERZI Dr. Darlie Koshy, ATDC / NIFT Mr. T.K. Rout, Tex le Commi ee Dr. M.S. Parmar, NITRA DKTE Students & Professors Technopak Team Mr. Prashant Agarwal, Wazir Advisors

Thanks for support and trus ng us as a Media Partner. · · · · · · · · · · ·




KUMAR SILK MILLS 384 / A, Dabholkar Wadi, Ground oor, Shop no. 2, Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai - 400002 Tel : 022-32227900 Email : Contact Person : Mr. Atul Jain - 9324169231 / Hitesh Shah - 7498207498




TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|







TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|


TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|





Tackling cotton contamination: the total solution U s t e r Technologie s pioneers u n i q u e approach to a longstanding problem, to be presented at ITMA Asia & CITME Raw cotton is subject to various kinds of contamination, and its removal has long been a headache for quality-conscious spinners. Uster Technologies is proposing a signicant and effective solution, to be unveiled for the rst time in public at this year's major textile machinery exhibition. Spinners visiting the forthcoming ITMA Asia & CITME in Shanghai will be able to learn about TOTAL CONTA MINAT ION CONTROL – a unique new concept from Uster Technologies following its recent acquisition of Jossi Systems AG. Jossi Systems instruments are now fullyintegrated into the USTER product family, and will be seen at the show for the rst time in a new livery, matching the familiar red and grey USTER color scheme. Rebranded under the name USTER®JOSSI, these instruments maintain their key characteristics of high performance and great reliability in eliminating cotton contamination at the early stages of spinning mill processing.

BSL Received Export Excellence Award by SRTEPC

Bhilwara's LNJ group company, BSL Limited have received Gold trophy from SRTEPC for year 2012-13, for highest Export in Focus LAC Countries.

This award given every year for Excellence in Export by Government of India. In year 2012-13, BSL limited had excelled in their Exports. Company's Business Head Shri J.C. Soni had received award on behalf of company by Textile Minister Shri. K. S.K. Rao, 31/1/2014 at Trident hotel, Mumbai. This is Great achievement for company. BSL thanked all stakeholders behind the success. INVIYA® I-300 fashion collection launched

USTER will always be USTER The familiar USTER 'funnels' at the main booth will ensure visitors quickly feel at home in the USTER show environment. The complete USTER® instrument ranges for both ber and yarn quality control will be shown here – a particular eye-catcher being the latest USTER®CLASSIMAT 5 yarn classication system, marked out on the booth by a large red 'U'. Highlighting the principle of TOTAL CONTAMINATION CONTROL by presenting the JOSSI products under the Uster Technologies banner is a key feature of the exhibition. At the same time, USTER is equally proud to display its own developmentsover the past six decades at the show. The full story at ITMA Asia & CITME is about maximum value, as customers have come to expect from Uster Technologies over the years.

Indorama Industries Limited, a part of Indorama Corporation, Singapore launched the latest collection made from its new range INVIYA® I-300 at Fibres and Yarns exhibition at Mumbai. INVIYA® I-300, which was introduced in the market earlier this year, is a new age spandex bre from the house of Indorama made from advanced polymer having high stretch power, tenacity and heat resistance properties. These facilitate operations at higher speeds in cotton core spinning, draw texturing and circular knitting


INVIYA® I-300 range has been developed after regular feedback from various customers in different segments. The exclusive collections produced using this range includes high powered stretch denims and ne deniers fashion apparels, which have great recovery and very low growth The Denim collection is developed in close association with its partners and includes different structures ranging from twill, dobby, knits with different nishes including prints, peached, coated, over-dyed, etc. as per the latest fashion trend. The fashion apparel collection made with ne deniers of INVIYA® I-300 exhibits the nest apparels including leggings, which are softer in stretch with high recovery even after many washes. The new INVIYA® I-300 fashion collection also showcased its usage in performance wear and intimate wear. Developed especially for its wide applications in Denims, Ready-to-wear, Active-wear, Shape wear and Intimatewear, INVIYA® I-300 lends extra comfort, perfect shape and freedom of movement to the wearer. ”We are getting overwhelming response from the industry for this new series. Its high performance along with exceptional properties of recovery, tenacity and durability, INVIYA® I-300 is creating ripples in the textile fraternity”, says Mr Shalendra Vasudeva, Chief Marketing Ofcer, Indorama Industries Limited. INVIYA® is the rst production unit in the eld of Spandex manufacturing established in the Indian sub-continent, which within its two years of launch has acquired 40% of the domestic market share. INVIYA® has an array of products ranging from 15 Denier to 1680 Denier which can be used in conjunction with natural and man-made bres to create premium garments, lending them unparalleled qualities of stretch, comfort, shape, control and t. With unique product offerings, state-of-art operations and rapidly growing customer base, INVIYA® is making positive impetus to the Indian textile industry.

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

NEWS Sisley and jeans: a love affair that's lasted more than forty years. Unconventional, ed gy insp ira ti o n : Denim, the season's latest trend Sisley

has always focused on demin to create its young, appealing stylish looks. The brand interprets this trend with expertise and an attentive but laidback eye that mixes the many denim versions and washes, from classic navy blue, stonewashed, bleachedeffect and cement grey. And plays with its souls – stretch, distressed or waxed. Whether we're talking about light, neohippy maxi skirts or evergreen boyfriend jeans, what matters is mixing all the denim washes to create the all over fashionable look. The unexpected detail, however, is the tailored turn taken by denim paired with a tuxedo jacket and worn with heels. Because denim has a dual personality – democratic by birth, it is also unexpectedly chic. And Sisley, who made its revolution with cool, unconventional jeans denitely knows something about that... CFW educates US designers The Campaign for Wool's (CFW) has held an education roadshow across four American cities to promote understanding of wool bre amongst designers. The course covered wool's structure, how the bre is sourced, the production processes and benets of using wool in carpet and rugs. Approved by IDCEC (Interior Design Continuing Education Council) for 0.1 CEU, the course can be used by design professionals as an ofcial credit. The Wool Education Roadshow, the rst to be completed in the US, was held in association with the International Design Guild (IDG) at showroom venues in Austin, Salt Lake City, San Francisco and Minneapolis. “This course was created to provide designers with a deeper dive into the world

INTERNATIONAL NEWS of wool,” explained Kathleen Callahan of the IDG. “Many designers and consumers alike appreciate wool's green qualities, but a number of misconceptions about the bre still exist. “The knowledge of the experts involved in the course development combined with the extensive experience of Bridgette Kelly and Tim Booth in the delivery of the training, provided designers in attendance with a wealth of practical knowledge and answers to all of their wool concerns.” Bridgette Kelly, interior textiles director for the CFW, agreed that there had been an excellent response to the training sessions. “The designers varied in their knowledge of the bre but we gave them a more comprehensive understanding of why wool was such a great choice for interior textiles including dealing with any queries and so it was very worthwhile.” All the designers taking part received a copy of The Wool Book and the Wool CEU workbook. The Campaign for Wool Education Roadshow continues throughout 2014, with a second course on wool for carpets and rugs to take place soon. Cambodian garment workers strike for living wage Starting today, thousands of garment workers in Cambodia will not attend work in hopes of gaining a living wage. The seven-day strike is supported by 18 Cambodian unions and international campaign groups such as Clean Clothes Campaign. Workers are calling on major clothing buyers like H7M, Puma, Levi's and Adidas to take action to ensure an increase in the minimum wage for workers to US$160 per month. During the last national strike on December 24, 2013, the Cambodian police and military responded with violence, killing at least four people and injuring almost 40. State authorities have banned public gatherings completely and still continue to hold 21 workers in detention. The workers have reportedly been beaten after being seized by authorities and security forces continue to put down any sign of worker protest.

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|


The Clean Clothes Campaign is supporting the workers in their pursuit of a living wage, as well as the demand for the release of the remaining 21 prisoners and the end of persecution of workers and their unions. Athit Kong from the Coalition of Cambodian Apparel Workers' Democratic Union (CCAWDU) called on the brands to resume good faith wage negotiations: “Diplomatic pressure from brands is not enough anymore. It is high time brands take their responsibility and use their buying power to take concrete steps and tackle the issue which lies at the heart of our protests: a living wage.” In 'Crackdown in Cambodia', a recently published report by the US-based Worker Rights Consortium, the labour rights monitoring organisation reveals how garment workers in Cambodia have suffered growing repression of their human and labour rights. Bulletproof Vests from Stem Cells A unique property of stem cells that are human master cells has been identied that may lead to wide range of applications such as bulletproof vests and superabsorbent materials. A team of scientists spotted the property known as auxeticity, which helps in serving as fantastic shock absorbing materials. This auxeticity property results in shrinking when squeezed and expansion when stretched, which is opposite to what is experienced in materials such as elastic tapes that get thinner when pulled. the interdisciplinary team from Cambridge report that this property is rare in natural materials and features the unique auxeticity phenomenon in the nuclei of embryonic stem cells. According to the authors, these auxeticity materials are highly ordered and can nd applications in super absorbent materials such as ballistic shields. Although it will be a longtime to see human body derived materials to be used in ballistic shield and other advanced materials, this research throws some new information on the biomimetic approach that can be followed by material scientists in developing value-added functional materials.




While technology is their hallmark, concern for the underprivileged their mission, sensing the business opportunity their management skill, strengthening of national economy their dream and modesty their religion. The development of a sleepy village like Anjar into a booming town is the result of their devotion, commitment and efforts. From scratch to a growth of US $ 3.5 billion in less than 30 years is an envious success by any yardstick. It is the fruit of managerial skill, hard work, vision, ardent follow- up of business scruples and religious dictates. No wonder Welspun is becoming a household name in 50 countries across the world. The company is guided by 3 E's – Education, Empowerment and Environment. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN is happy to salute the rising star and wishes Welspun success in achieving their Vision 2020. In the realm of textiles, the success achieved by Welspun India is amazing. Welspun is the world leader in Home Textiles and has inspired many Indian entrepreneurs to enter this sector. TVC strongly feels that it appears to be the intention of Welspun Home Textiles should be the exclusive eld reserved for India. : Editor WELVISION 2020 Welvision 2020, a one-day seminar was arranged by Welspun Group on 5th Feb, 2014 in Anjar (Gujarat) basically for employees, the purpose being to promote interaction between outside world and the welspunites. On the occasion, Welspun inaugurated world-class auditorium devoted in memory of Mr. G. R. Goenka, Founder of Welspun, fondly known as “Babuji” in the circle of Group associate & friends and in the business world.

Mr. Balkrishan Goenka, Chairman & MD, Welspun Group Balkrishan Goenka (or 'BKG' as he is more popularly known) is Chairman and Managing Director of Welspun Group and the person who has steered the business to its present heights. Born in 1966 in Haryana, lived in Rajasthan, Delhi & Mumbai, he began his career when he launched Welspun at the young age of 18 in 1985 along with his cousin Mr. Rajesh Mandawewala, Jt. MD of Group. At such a young age, he has risen the ladder very fast.

Many respected and knowledgeable speakers participated in the seminar in pursuit of knowledge and for the benet of welspun employees. This event was part of their Corporate Social Responsibility. Welspun Suppliers, Vendors, Customers, Press were also invited to the event. The Event started with the National Anthem, followed by a Documentary lm on Shri G.K. Goenka ( Babuji), followed by a lm from Welspun Corporate on the activities the world over. The event was inaugurated by Mr. Rajesh Mandawewala, M.D. of Welspun Textile division. Mr. Arvind Singhal, Chairman of Technopack Advisors ; Mr. Prashant Agarwal, MD of Wazir Advisors ; Mr. A.K. Joshi, Director Operation- Welspun Vapi and Mr. S.S. Aich, Director Operation - Welspun Anjar spoke on different topics. Mr. Rajesh Mandawewala, MD of Welspun spoke well on how the world was growing & statistics on world consumption pattern of home textiles & opportunities & threats to Indian textile industry. He was followed by, Mr. Arvind Singhal, Chairman of Techopak. He started with highlighting macro economic trends & political happenings across the world which would impact textile industry in India. The world was emerging as a virtual platform for education systems, human capabilities, technological advancement, changes in HR systems, thinking process, many more. He warned not to be too optimistic about the positive TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

developments globally. Mr. Prashant Agarwal, MD of Wazir Advisors; mentioned that home textile industry was growing at 7% globally. He explained changes at global, national, industry level, company level. He highlighted how the trade agreements with different countries would benet or cause threat to different countries. Two representatives from IKEA, a Sourcing Company in India and reputed buyer of welspun products explained how the company was good not only in discharging it's Corporate Social Responsibility, but also in innovation which was a must for success. Mr. G.V. Aras , MD of ATE explained their capabilities of ATE in every segments of textile value chain. Mr. Kurt Lamkowski, of M/S Picanol explained the transition in market evolution & the growth of woven home textiles & the role of picanol machinery in the same. Dr. Merete & Mr Jayant from Novozymes described enzymes as a substitute of water. With this development benets at places where water was scarce and natural resources were diminishing day by day & in the scenario of polluted water and efuent treatment plant requirement. Dr. V.K. Kothari, Professor, IIT, Delhi presented a paper on ber requirement for home textiles, various ber structures and their adaptability. Dr. R. Chattopadhyay, also form IIT Delhi explained yarn structure vis-a-vis fabric properties. Dr. Kushal Sen, also from IIT Delhi presented a paper on innovation in textile processing. Intertek, explained about various failures during testing & methods of improvement. Huntsman explained innovative solution for textile effects / nishes. At the same time parallel seminars had various machinery suppliers to explain the technical aspects of different textile machinery for the benets of employees. At the end of event, welspun assured that, such seminars would be organized annually as part of Corporate Social Responsibility.

Mrs. Dipali Goenka , MD , Welspun Global Brands Ltd Mrs. Dipali Goenka is Managing Director, of Welspun Global Brands Ltd, A successful entrepreneur & the driving force behind its textile business. She has successfully led the development of two brands – Spaces Home & Beyond and Welhome. A Graduate in Psychology with a brief stint at Harvard, she emerged as the head of award-winning design team with a clear global perspective. 18




Products : Home textiles, Non woven wipes

Product : Dyed Polyester yarn, Nylon Filaments,

Market : Export 95% & Domestic 5%

Market : Export : 30% , Domestic – 70%

Growth Rate -15%

Growth Rate : 25 % , Prot Growth- -4 %

Listed in BSE & NSE exchange

Listed in BSE exchange

Total Revenue : Rs. 30921 Million ( FY 2012-13)

Total Revenue : Rs. 77862 Lacs ( FY 2012-13)

Prot After Taxation : Rs. 1714 Million ( FY 2012-13)

Prot After Taxation : Rs. 1602 Lacs (FY 2012-13)

Mr. Rajesh Mandawewala, MD of Welspun Group & Chairman of Christry, UK.

Group in a Nutshell: 

A Chartered Accountant by profession, he is incharge of operations of textile business and has enabled Welspun to develop a global reach in over 50 Countries. Group MD by nature is down to earth, calm, intelligent and humane.

   

Mr. Rajesh Mandawewala, Shares The Secret of Success of Welspun Group : One Line : Being Consumer Centric & Innovation 1 Started at the right time for the textile industry. 2 Business is fully customer-centric 3 Focus on Product Development 4 Innovative Products 5 E x c e l l e n t Team / Human resource, given open, healthy environment, encouragement to employees for self improvement. 6 Research : Shop oor research done twice a month in the case of large buyers like, IKEA, JC Penny, Wal-Mart etc. 7 Using updated Technology for Production 8 Digitally upgraded technology for Marketing. Suggestion to New Entrant in Business : 1 Enormous opportunity in Home Textile business 2 Be Customer focused / customer- centric business model 3 Effective use of Technology, E- Commerce

 

New initiative of WELVISION 2020, target of doubling the growth by 2020. Planning a new Textile Park in Anjar City India's only Zero-discharge facility, invested Rs.100 crs by Welspun. Face competition from other organized well-known players Do not get bogged down by unorganized sector, as the organised sector caters to different groups of customers in international & national market . The scale of manufacturing also differs in both the cases. Not planning to open their own stores in India as well as internationally. Brands of welspun “ SPACES” & “ WELLHOME” available at various chains of organized retail stores like Shopper Stop, Good Home, many more. Welspun expecting continuous growth in the eld of Technical texile sector. Setting up a new plant for the purpose in near future. New spinning plant already in process for home textile sector in Anjar. Also planning for entering into Garment sector very soon.




TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|



10-13, December 2014 VENUE: Ahmedabad, India

Actual image of ITMACH, Bhiwandi, India

SPACE BOOKING Arvind Semlani : Cell: +91 9833977743, Email:, Farid K S : Cell: +91 9869185102, Email:


Fashion and style Stretch element, especially in women’s clothing is de rigueur. Stretch yarns and fabrics are used particularly for “body conforming garments (comfort stretch) and for figure controlling purposes (power stretch)”. Therefore for value addition to basic yarns, an elastrometriccore is incorporated while spinning to produce core spun yarn used in weaving of stretch fabrics for bottom weights and even shirting fabrics. Lifestyle dressing now influences previously stable sectors of the market such as basic suiting and shirting.  Operational performance Value is also added by improving the in-production performance of intermediate textile products. Compact yarns are produced by compaction which increases yarn strength, reduceshairiness and liberation of fly. These properties add significant value in downstream processing. According to Rieter, lowerhairiness and improved yarn abrasion resistance reduce the production of fly in weaving and knitting, which in turn reduces the number of fabric defects and increases machine efficiency. The improved properties of compact yarns also include fabric strength and pilling behaviour. Compact yarns are now regarded as standard for shirt weaving and are also penetrating into the knitting applications due to the perceived added value. 

Mr. Navdeep Singh Sodhi Partner Ghrezi Textile Orgnanisation, Textile Industry Economist

According to the Financial Times Lexicon, in economic theory, value added refers to the worth added to a product during the production process-i.e.,the difference between what the producing company paid for its inputs and the price it charges for the finished goods. Inpractice, the term is used more commonly to describe how a service or component can add to a product's usefulness, and thus potentially to the final price charged to customers. By contrast, commodity products such as metal, farm goods and oil are hard to differentiate from other products of the same kind. Textiles is the among the world's most basic industries and it is often the cornerstone of economic progress in most developing countries. Textile and clothing sector contributes a significant share of the manufacturing GDP in developing countries such as China, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Turkey and Indonesia. Textiles& clothing is among the Top 5 traded manufactured product groups in the world-others being chemicals,office equipment & telecom, automotive products and iron & steel. This means that textile producers face a great challenge to offer a unique value proposition and differentiate their products from the rest.

Hairs /m

100% co Ne 10 cm 3.6

200 180

Fiber y (%)

100% CO combed Ne 16


160 100


It is quite often heard in policy forums that we need to add value to our textiles. It is said that China generates $ 4 billion from one million bales of cotton, India $ 2 billion whereas Pakistan is lagging behind at $ 1 billion only.In 2013, the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) was tweaked in favour of value added downstream textiles.






60 15.8 / 2.6

40 20

40 20

0 1mm


3 mm

4 mm

6 mm


0 Ring yarn

Measuring method : Zweigle

Ring Yarn

This article describes how value could be added to textile and clothing by five features such as, Function, Fashion &style, Operationalperformance, Sustainability and Service. The readers will also benefit from anecdotal evidence about potential for value addition in Yarn and Fabrics shared below.

waxed twist

Yes 100%

Com 40 Yes 100%

Com 40 No 100%

Com 40 Yes 90%

Com 40 No 90%

Com4 o

Fig. 1Impact of compact yarn on hairiness and ber y Source :Rieter



Use of sustainable raw materials and processes enhances perceived value of the textile products in the eyes of the consumer. Consumers are increasingly exercising their choice in favour of textile materials produced by environmentally sustainable and socially responsible methods.

Value addition to textile products could be achieved by enhancing either the form or function or both. There are several facets of value addition to a basic article of textiles or clothing. 



A Greenpeace report published in 2011 and provocatively titled ‘Dirty Laundry’ was instrumental in generating a positive industry response and led to the creation of an alliance of global fashion brands to works towards elimination of hazardous chemicals used in textile processes by 2020. Huntsman is a leading chemical supplier actively involved in helping the mills to benchmark their processes to optimise their performance. It promotes “positive list” of chemicals and partners in developing cleaner supply chain. The demand for apparels produced from cotton certified under the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is growing as more and

Functional textiles are engineered to meet specific performance requirements whereby value is added through functionality. One such prominent consumer application is wrinkle free or easy care fabrics whereby a finish is applied to fabrics or garments to improve the crease recovery and smoothdrying properties. The demand for wrinkle free apparels is increasing. Nowadays even for bed linen, there is a growing demand for easy care bed sheets. Functional clothing is used for several applications among which sports and defence are prominent.


TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

more apparel brands are switching over to it and there is a rise in “consumer demands about transparency about the impact of their purchases”. Hence, the perceived value added.Global retailers such as H&M have made BCI central to their sustainable marketing strategy. Spinners are able to fetch premiums of 5-10 cents per kilo. According to the annual report published by Geneva based not- for- profit organisation Better Cotton Initiative,the production of BCI cotton witnessed a dramatic increase from 35,000 MT in 2010 to 623,000 MT in 2012. BCI cotton is now grown in all five continents. In India, Arvind and Trident group have partnered with BCI for promotion of the initiative. Notably, Arvind is working with 5600 farmers covering 47,000 hectares under BCI cotton. Today, the Higg Index developed by San Francisco based Sustainable Apparel Coalition is being used by hundreds of textile and footwear manufacturers,brands,retailers and other stakeholders. The latest version of the Higg Index 2.0 launched in 2013 is a tool to help organisations standardize how they measure and evaluate environmental performance of apparel products across the supply chain at three levels vizbrand, product and facility level. India’s Arvind and KG Denim have now adopted the Higg Index as their commitment to environmental sustainability in their textile business practice.  Service Two trends that are driving today’s apparel markets are shortening shelf life and internet retailing. This brings us to an intangible area of customer service but with a rather tangible value added. These two trends were captured with authority in the book titled The Textile/Clothing Pipeline and Quick Response Management published by the Textile Institute. The old summer vs winter breakdown first segmented into four seasons, and now ‘high fashion’ is heading towards seasons of 8-10 weeks; the signs of ‘continuous fashion’ Not only the retailer, but the entire pipeline is under pressure to provide greater variety. To meet the changing demand patterns, textile and clothing retailers have to react with speed to reduce time to market. The internet is radically transforming both B2B (business-tobusiness) and B2C(business-to-consumer) commerce. It is predicted that,by the year 2015, there will be 38 million on-line shoppers-in India that compares to 11 million in 2011. Online retailing has been drawing the maximum interest among all segments of the e-Commerce market. The Indian retail industry estimated at $ 528 billion in 2012 is growing at 11 per cent per annum.Although 90 per cent of the Indian retail is unorganized; the share of organized retail is growing at 24 percent per annum. According to a survey carried out by Boston Consulting Group,India,clothing enjoys the highest market(36 %) share among various products sold through organized retail.Currently, online retail constitutes 1 percent of the total organized retail which is also set to expand.

Traditional Retailing

Future Retailing

Fig.3 Traditional and future retail structure Source : The Textile Institute International

The influence of e-commerce on garment retailing is tremendous. According to a study conducted by Ernst & Young, while electronic goods with a market share of 61 percent enjoy the maximum population in India, apparel and accessories are the largest- selling categories in leading markets such as the US,UK and Germany. “This is because of the higher margins that this category generates for e-Commerce players. The preference for apparels in online shopping is a global phenomenon.” The share of apparels in online retail sales in India is expected to increase. VALUE ADDED YARNS AND FABRICS A glimpse into two value added segments would- core spun yarns and yarn dyed shirting fabrics- will give the readers an opportunity to visualise the horizons available for creating a differentiation through value added textiles 

Texhong is among the world’s largest cotton core-spun yarn producers offering a wide variety of core-spun yarns for casual fabrics, denim, knitting, yarn-dyed fabrics and home textiles. The company boasts of 1.85 million spindles of which 1.5 million are equipped with core-spun devices, 250,000 compact-siro spinning spindles, 100,000 spindles equipped with slub device and 100,000 dyed yarn spinning spindles. Texhong produced 284,000 MT of yarns in 2013 of which 65% were core-spun yarns. The average selling price for Cotton Core-spun yarns was $ 4.45/kilo vis-à-vis 4.10 /kilo for 100 % Cotton yarn. The gross margin on the two yarns was respectively 23% and 14%. India’s largest spinner Vardhman with nearly one million spindles boasts of 52% yarn generated from value added speciality and compact yarns.

Product share of organized retail sales Health & personal care




Clothing Electronics









Food Services

Leisure 9


Furniture 12



14 36


Pharmacy Health & personal care






Fig. 2Product category wise share of organized retail sales in India Source :BCG

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Yarn dyed shirting fabrics

The global high end shirting fabric market was estimated at 900 million metres in 2012 dominated by China (40% share).India had a market share of 11 %. According to Lu Thai, the world’s largest producer of high end shirting fabrics,the yarn-dyed shirting market is divided into three segments:

Food services 8


Core spun yarns


SEGMENTATION OF YARN-DYED SHIRTING MARKET Global High-end Shirt fabric Market - 900 mm mn metres (2012) Turkey 7%

Europe 13%

Prenium - High Count High - density, and delicateness after nishing

China 40%

Japan 10%

Thailand 10% Taiwan 9%

High Count 70’s and above, compact yarn

India 11%

Mid Counts Ne 50~70’s, compact yarn

Fig. 4Global high end shirt fabric market Source:Gherzi database Low Counts below Ne 50’s

The premium segment is characterized by high count above Ne 100’s,high-density and delicateness after finishing. Such fabrics are produced by a few leading textile manufacturers in Italy,France, Germany and Japan targeted at top shirt brands.

Fig. 5 Segmentation of yarn dyed shirting market Source: Gherzi database

The high-end fabric market consists of fabrics produced from above Ne 70’s (mainly compact yarns). The pure cotton yarndyed fabric has characteristics of dyeing fastness, clear striped weave, wide variety of designs and comfort.

The article clearly reveals that successful textile and clothing manufacturers worldwide have adopted value addition as their strategy to differentiate themselves and their products from the rest.India has further potentials to enhance value addition by strengthening the downstream textile value chain.

The medium segment consists of fabrics produced from counts above Ne 50’s and below Ne 70’s while the low end comprises fabrics produced from counts below Ne 50’s.

Mr. Navdeep Singh Sodhi is a partner with Gherzi extil Organisation ( and an international textile industry economist.Gherzi is an international consulting organisation established in Zurich since 1929 and with presence of over 50 years in India, providing consulting services in the area of management and operations, engineering, technical textiles and corporate finance.

India has further potentials to move up the shirting fabric value chain. Admittedly,the market is highly challenging with long technology-absorption curve and knowhow being the key success factors. However on the positive side, there are attractive opportunities for Indian textile mills such as availability of cotton, spinning capacity and growing domestic demand due to changing lifestyles and penetration of organized retail.



new business altogether which requires CAPEX, establishment of new infrastructure, development of associated production and marketing team etc. For the first type of VA, whereas the investment is not huge but more than Marketing/technical staff alone, the firm’s culture should be oriented towards VA wherein the company nurtures innovation and out of-the-box thinking by its employees. But, of course, the team has to have the right credentials to spot the opportunity and work seamlessly across departments to turn into a reality. EBIDTA ( Earning before interest, Deprecation, taxes & Amortization) levels for different products: • Yarn alone14-15% • Yarn and Finished Fabric18-20% • Garments alone20-22% • Garments with fabrics & yarn25% +

Mr. Prashant Agarwal, Jt. Managing Director Wazir Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

In the textile industry, value addition can be achieved by two methods. Firstly, it is the addition of value to the final product of a manufacturer. If, suppose, the final product is yarn, then value addition can be done by subjecting yarn to different chemical processes. The other method is to try out different blends, doubling of two different types yarns etc. Value-addition is also possible by changing twist and other yarn parameters. Secondly, a spinner can do value-addition by entering into the realm of the subsequent stages of the value chain. For example, a spinner can acquire weaving facilities and start manufacturing grey cloth or subject it to processing to manufacture processed cloth, which may be converted into made-ups and/or garments.

Value Addition across the supply chain

Row cotton 1kg

Thus, the scope for value-addition in the textile industry is tremendous. Manufacturers must keep an eye on the opportunities for value-addition to grab them. For the second type of VA, the company needs to venture into a

Cotton Yarm =


Fabric =




Trouser (Retail)

(Manufacturer Level )

2 pieces


2 pieces$66$ 2.2$ 3.6$10$22

0.5 / kg

0.75 / kg

1.5 / sq.m.

2.5 / machine

value addition







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VALUE ADDITION , VIEWS OF TECHNOPAK CONSULTANT as dyeing, printing, nishing, apparel manufacturing, and apparel designing offer much room for value-addition through the deployment of better technology and sophisticated machinery, especially in developing countries like India. Chemical processing also plays a pivotal role in inculcating environmental and social values by tackling such issues as energy consumption, water treatment, greenhouse house gas emissions, etc. Similarly, in apparel manufacturing, the deployment of modern operations management concepts like the use of best practices, efcient quality protocols, continuous training and development of operators, etc. has the potential to improve efciencies by 15-20%, resulting in ~10% reduction in manufacturing costs.

Mr. Amit Gugnani Senior Vice President, Fashion- Textile & Apparel at Technopak

Mr. Kanti Prakash Brahma Senior Consultant, Fashion- Textile & Apparel at Technopak

BUSINESS PROCESS OPTIMISATION Cost reduction through business process optimization throws up a plethora of opportunities for players in the textiles industry. Collaborations between the various stakeholders in the value chain have been discussed for a long time; however, at the ground level, there remains much to be implemented. The new business world is characterized by highly agile, networked enterprises wherein the sharing of knowledge and information, investing in shared resources, and building long-term relationships based on mutual trust have the potential to reduce the total cost of manufactured products. Such collaborations have the potential to mitigate the risk exposures of various players in the value chain, optimize inventory holding and carrying costs, reduce product and process development costs, optimize transport and logistics costs, and minimize time to launch or replenish products. Advanced technologies like Collaborative Planning, Forecasting and Replenishment (CPFR) technology, vendor managed inventory (VMI), electronic data transfer (EDI), product lifecycle management (PLM), etc. also provide opportunities for reducing costs across the value chain.

The global economy has started showing signs of recovery after a relatively long period of uncertainty in the wake of the 2008 nancial crisis. However, this slowing down has adversely impacted all industries and trade, with textile manufacturing and trade not being n exception. The compound annual growth rate (CAGR) for the global Textile & Apparels trade between 2007 and 2012 was only 4%, while the corresponding gure for the period 2002-2007 was as high as 10%. With the decline in economic growth accompanied of higher unemployment, and greater economic uncertainty, the consumer consumption was at a low rate, the share of T&A in global merchandise trade fell from 5.5%, in 2002, to 4.2%, in 2007, and to 3.8%, in 2012. As a consequence, players across the T&A value chain, from ber to retail, are being compelled to rethink their business methods. The focus has shifted from low-cost manufacturing, intensive machine utilization, and operational efciency to the broader dimensions of value-addition in manufacturing, collaborations across the value chain, and innovative business models.

IN HOUSE EFFECTS Value creation through additions to existing value propositions, though more difcult than cost reduction, provides long-term strategic value to industry players. Innovating products and services can generate additional business as consumers are often prepared to pay a premium for products that are superior and novel and provide a solution for their core needs. Unlike the electronic or telecommunication industry which registers a fundamental shift in products every few years, the T&A industry lacks any radical change in product offerings. Improvements in functionalities e.g. wash effects in denims, advanced nish application, etc. are the only innovations that the industry has witnessed in recent times. Investments in research and development and leveraging the latest developments in machinery, chemicals, and Innovation in Product technology will make and Processes such product and process Supply Chain i n n o v a t i o n Ingredient Branding Management more rapid and regular. Value Addition Through Innovation

Players along the textiles value chain need to adopt a holistic approach towards value-addition, via a meticulously drafted framework which takes into account all aspects of manufacturing, from consumer trends to the procurement of basic raw material. Given that each stakeholder in the value chain has a different understanding of value, this framework should encompass valuecreation, and retention, along the entire supply chain, instead of solely focusing on the stronger components, in order to harness the full potential of value-addition. Thus, an entire set of values, including nancial value, social value, and strategic value, should be addressed. The competitiveness of both countries and individual corporations can improve though value-creation, achieved through sure way for value addition, either adding to the existing value proposition or on eliminating the negatives within the ecosystem. Of these, the latter is perceived to be the easier option. The elimination of negatives includes minimizing manufacturing costs, business process costs, and logistics costs. Within the textile value chain, spinning and weaving already operate at very high levels of efciency; a level of 90-95% in spinning, and 85-90% in weaving, is not uncommon. This limits the scope of reducing manufacturing costs through the improvement of operational efciency in these areas. However, downstream activities like chemical processing such

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

Concern for Natural Resources


Leveraging Big Data Analytics


Ingredient branding contributes substantially to the perceived value of T&A products. Value-addition through branding also provides a long-term, strategic advantage to e.g., some component brands like COTTON USA, Gore-Tex, Lycra, YKK, etc. have managed to make a long-lasting impression on the minds of T&A consumers.

However, the shifting of textiles manufacturing to developing countries has made the supply chain more global and complex, thus providing scope for value-addition in terms of supply chain management. Fashion retailers are interested in ofoading more of their responsibilities to T&A manufacturers who in turn need to provide more value in order to gain a substantial edge over their competitors. This requires an end-to-end understanding of the global supply chain and the associated trends, from raw materials to consumers, and, sometimes, recycling as well. Similarly, the use of data analytics tools has opened up opportunities for diving deeper into the granularities of inventory management, manufacturing costs, vendor performance evaluation, logistics, and lead time management. Comprehensive data are increasingly seen as the new frontier of productivity, for all kinds of business operations.

The blurring distinction between the products offered by the various functional elements within the textiles value chain forces manufacturers to bank upon weaving additional services and improved solutions into their core value proposition. In order to remain competitive in this highly globalized industry, players have to factor in the constantly evolving business dynamics in their attempts at value-addition. For a long-term, competitive edge, it is critical to revisit the value provided by the company vis-à-vis its competitors and the solution required by the customer on a regular basis and realign the value added with that offered by the industry and/or required by customers. At the industry level value-addition is largely about creating a culture of innovation through mutual collaboration so that the consumer can benet through availing better products and services. While conceptualizing newer options of value-addition within the textiles value chain, it is imperative to keep in mind its effect on the entire value chain and to ensure that the value created will be nurtured and sustained beyond short-run benets.

The textiles industry has always been linked to issues of environmental pollution. Thus, investing in building a socially- and environmentally-responsible value chain is a credible opportunity for manufacturers. In recent times, it has been seen that consumers’ perception of brands, retailers, and manufacturers associated with sustainable business processes and eco-friendly textiles has sharpened. Consequently, there is more demand, and production, of organic textiles, recycled garments, etc.



reduced is a value addition. So, value addition leads to increase in prot levels cutting down overall cost involved in product manufacturing. One cannot control some costs like raw material cost, utilities like water & power cost but he can denitely bring value addition in technology & process. Especially, in case of conventional textiles where value addition plays very important role as market faces very high level of competition. There are ample numbers of producers of yarn, fabric & garments in the market, so value addition cannot be just done only frombre to yarn, yarn to fabric, fabric to garment but it has to be done by various other methods like by optimizationof overall operating cost, by improving the spinability of bres with the useof various spinning techniques so that one can use inferior raw materials & produce best quality of yarn , byoptimizing weaving costs with the use of various weaving techniques like reduction in Cover factor, EPI ( Ends per inch) & PPI (Picks per inch) keeping fabric structure same, by generating best recipes to increasepick up ratiodyes& chemicals.So, value addition is the key to survive in the competition & thereby to bring about sustainable growth in long run.

Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

Value addition as term suggests “when value is added to something”. But in many cases value addition term referred when nancial value is added to the product or process so value addition term is taken in the wrong sense. Real value addition comes from the augmentation of process, innovation of technology, reengineering of processing parameters or reduction in operating cost e.g. technology advancement in Technical Textiles leads transformation of bre to fabric in shorter duration is kind of value addition in process unlike in conventional textiles where it takes longer duration whereby increasing total product cycle. So, the time has come to understand, where actual value lies.Value lies in converting low price raw material into nal product for various applications which can bemarketed at very high price. Similarly value addition is achieved by having proper waste management system to reduce total raw material cost. There are various plants in Israel & Italy where waste materials from textile industry is used to manufacture varioustypes of textile products like carpets, rugs etc. This waste material is bleached & then converted into value added product & sold in market at higher value. One cannot identify that these products are generated from waste materials, so this is real value addition.

Value addition can also be brought by various techniques of improving efciency & productivity of the plant and quality of the products. In fact our associate Werner International USAis providing such services since past 7 decades in 70 countries. They are also involved in training manpower as per international standards to improve productivity, efciency, utilization and reduce operating cost. Such trainings are very crucial in Indian market where many companies have infrastructure & machineries of global standards but workforce which is required to operate such high standard machineries are not trained enough.

Value addition is process driven. The process where overall power cost is reducedby altering conventional process is a value addition.The process where overall product cycle is altered is a value addition. The process where dyes and chemicals are

Innovative product development is also a value addition. These 25

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

products are developed considering market demand. For example, various kinds of wipes are seen in the market nowadays ranging from kitchen wipes, baby wipes, industrial wipes & many more. Freudenberg is a German company involved in production of such wipes & they are specialized in production of such wipes. Beauty of these wipes is they are becoming thinner and thinner day by day & at the same time they are using nishes which are utmost necessary. So, depending upon the end use ranging from household to industrial purpose, wipes of various GSM, various bres, and various nishes are available in the market. This indicates how wide range of technology innovations can be brought in the single product & can be used for multipurpose. This kind value addition required for textile value chain. In India, value addition is always considered from bre to yarn, yarn to fabric, fabric to garment barring few


examples. But we have to understand need of setting up R & D facilities, generating new techniques & innovative methods. In India, there are various low cost natural bresavailable in the market e.g. Jute bre which is abundantly available as resource in eastern part of India. This is used for producing various end products like geotextiles, mats, bags & other decorative products since years. But it’s time to innovate these products by reducing GSM, by applying various nishes, by beautifying products with different dyeing techniques. Thus there are many ways to convert conventional products into value added products. Conclusion: Value addition is not just a process, but it is science, it is an art, it is commerce& it is engineering. Ultimately value addition brings about prot. However, prot is not the only criteria to characterize value addition but it also reduces the resources required in the manufacturing process saving it for future as they are limited, it sets skills & brings about technology advancement which is necessity of any industry!


Value addition in Textile Engineering Sector Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala, a D o y e n o f I n d i a n Te x t i l e Engineering industry, based in Surat, shared his thoughts : Textile Engineering supports user industry of textile value chain. Engineering depends upon user-based requirement. From cotton picking, Machine- Processed Fibres, Spinning, Weaving, Processing, Garmenting to Fashion, in short all the segments of textile value chain continue to value addition with the aid of textile engineering. Recently, Real value addition has been taking in large scale in Embroidery segment. There are more than 100 thousands/ plus embroidery machinery in just one cluster, Surat. All Hand embroidery work is now replaced by Machine Embroidery like, Sequence, lace, embellishment attachment which is done on Sarees, Dress materials. All the machinery is imported from China. Any new Indian Entrant wanting to enter segment is too late, as investment cost and return period are high. Printing techniques are a new development. But this is Fashion based, like digital printing, block , screen, rotary printing . Some new developments continuously go on, as per need and want of customer and fashion trends. Indians are good manufacturers of Ginning, Spinning, Yarn & Fabric Processing Machinery. We lack in Weaving & Garment Machinery. Garment segment has the least Indian manufacturers due to lack of proper policy decisions, investment constraints, barrier on free trade and many more. Association like TMMA is working hard and pursuing with textile ministry for the development in this eld.

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

Value Addition in Retail – Suiting / Shirting Mr. Ashwani Misra, President of Lombard, Future Group Company, launched a new brand in year 2013. Brand philosophy, Lombard means Lombardi, a Tribe in Milan, Italy. Lombardi means Power in Italian word. Their tagline is “ Where Real Power Rests” His brand driving on Revolutionized Retailing. They are working on Most desired Brand for individuals.  Product : Fabrics, Ready-mades, Accessories  Segment: Premium  Price Band: Rs. 4000 / Meter Onwards  Production : Umargaon, Gujarat & Italian Production unit  Producing only 100 meter, limited Quantity of for most premiums, for exclusivity, classy fabric.  Marketing : MBO's , EBO, Inshop Branding Gandola  Advertising / Promotion : TV Advt appx 5500 spots, Print, Outdoor, Inshop Vinyl, Lamas, Look Books, Carry Bags.  Unique Promotion by Lombard: Unit of Poly wool Trouser Panel Hanger sample which will be placed in Gandola. so that salesman need not open 20-30 units to sell one trouser length and refold the material. He can easily show these to customer. This will be complete revolu on to the Indian Man's Retail clothing Experience.




Value Addition in Garment / Fashion Mr. Rahul Mehta, President of CMAI candidly answered, Value addition is essential in any manufacturing activity. Textiles provides a large scope of Value Addition. TVC : What is the concept of Value addition according to you ? RM : In the Context of Garment / Fashion, Embellishment, add-on fashion accessories, embroidery, washing technique, patch work, buttons , Brand Experimentation, many more are the avenues for the value addition. In general concept, Value addition is converting one material to another, converting raw material to nish goods. TVC : For different items in Textile Value Chain, what is the scope for Value Addition? RM : Garment and Fashion industry has more scope of value addition,as fashion follows trends of season. Example, 90's have value addition in embellishment, Current trend is not the same,

now customer requires Cleaner, Neater, Good cut, Good fabric, Fabric structuring, nished garment, denim washing. Classic example is “Liva” brand by Birla Cellulose, which directly used by many fashion designers. Instead of garment brand promotion, ber company promoting bre brand is very unique. TVC : Do you look at Value addition as means of increase Protability and means of helping consumer to desire more satisfaction from product purchased by him/ her ? RM : If objective of any company doing value addition only for Prot, it will not sustain in long run. Objective should be satisfying the consumer. Consumer can pay any amount which satised his / her taste, requirement. Prot will follow after satisfaction of consumer. TVC : Do you believe in Co – operative set up to achieve value addition ? RM : yes, like ber and garment / fashion industry is already collaborating, using Lycra / spandex / stretchable ber in manufacturing of fabric, garment.

Value Addition in Suiting / Shirting Mr. Nitesh Kothari, Director of RamVijay Clothing Company Pvt. Ltd. , a Manufacture of Fabric brand “ RamVijay Fashion Fabrics” Value addition in fabric could be only through Processing, weave, blending 2 bers effectively. Fiber blend like Cotton + Polyester with 2- 3 % Spandex bers for stretch in fabric. Stretch in

fabric is new addition following in market. Finishes like Moisture management, Taon coating, Anti microbe fabrics. Any Fabric brand who runs long thorugh Quality Fabric and effective / Intelligent Marketing. Marketing will be like Inshop branding. As salesman of retail are not aware about quality of fabric, as this is not OTC products like garments, where label is sales person.


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breathable and natural. Thus, women are willing to aunt their ethnic, traditional aspect without compromising on the comfort that casual western forms offer. Even Indian cinema and TV serials’ attires speak volume on this trend.

Mr. Shailendra Pandey Vice Presindent, Head - Sales Marketing Indian Rayon , Birla Group

If you really scrutinize and attempt to make an offer to this fusion fashion trend, the only textile material that is optimal is the viscose lament yarn. This is of 100% natural origin, skin-friendly and biodegradable and a comfortable regular wear. The georgettes, crepes and chiffons of VFY impart colour brilliance, lustre and drape. The range has superne, ne and coarse denier in its kitty and is currently serving the Indian textile fraternity to suit the consumer need.

“Change is the Only Constant in Life” was stated by the famous Greek philosopher Heraclitus in his doctrine of change over 2000 years ago. To me it appears that the World of Fashion follows this doctrine in full spirit, more than any other industry. Fashion and Trends are ever changing, inuenced, on one hand, by the geosocio-politico-economic horizon, the cultural conuences and diversities and the changing rules of lifestyle and livelihood. On the other hand, this inuences fabric preferences, silhouettes, cuts, drapes and weaves.

One query that we, as VFY manufacturers are confronted with from the textile value chain is how ner can we get? Can we really meet the needs of today’s woman? Till date, the answer to this was in imported products. Today, the scenario has signicantly changed.

Every fashion trend along the annals of time is distinct in its approach. It conquers new forts of creativity, transforms some old ones and inspires ner elements to catapult to the next level. What starts as a ripple triggered by a preference in geo-society swells to a wave on which rides the dress code of an entire global population, the expressions comfortably localized. As one wave lashes on the shore – what we refer as marketplace, a new fashion wave swells in the horizon to excite, inspire and control choices of all – from a celebrity to a commoner, from a fashion icon to uniform wearers, from ace fashion designers to commodity textile dealers.

I will take this opportunity to highlight that we at Indian Rayon (a unit of Aditya Birla Nuvo Limited.) have made signicant efforts and have been successful in bringing the proprietary German technology for manufacturing and marketing superne viscose lament yarn exclusively under the brand name ENKA. Enka yarn has uniform cross sectional properties, high tensile strength, uniform elongation, high brightness and whiteness properties, in addition to the well-established properties of viscose lament yarn having high lustre and colour brilliance, extreme comfort, skin-friendly, soft and smooth feel, unique drape and uidity. Though manmade to suit diverse textile specications, this has its origin in cellulose drawn from wood pulp and hence is 100% natural and bio-degradable. During a fashion show by Indian Rayon, ace designer Ms. Archana Kochhar also indicated that, “I have used fabrics made from viscose lament yarns. The fabric is a delight to work with especially for the feel and the fall in the superne fabrics”.

Today, such an emergent wave is the Superne Fabrics that has changed the Indian Women’s Wardrobe. Since time immemorial, we had been addicted to superne material. Commonly known are the ne Dhaka muslins that were known to pass through a nger ring, the ne cotton tissue Maheshwaris that was woven with real gold thread or the Egyptian Linen world famous for lightness and neness. Important to note is that all these were of natural origin. This preference of superne natural fabrics continues over several 100years. In this 2nd decade of the 21st century, the expression of this fashion wave is in the Indian ethnic wear and drapes. Women’s wear is being driven more and more by the 100% natural georgettes, crepes, chiffons and newer uid fabrics. Consumers are asking for superne fabrics that drapes well, will be light and can carry embellishments. However, discomfort of fashion is not acceptable to this 21st century woman. They want fabric that is skin friendly,

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I hope the entire Indian Textile Industry would take advantage of the availability of the ENKA yarn from Indian Rayon, cater to the Fashion Wave that is gradually swelling in the Indian fashion horizon and leverage on this opportunity. I wish Textile Value Chain and all its members all the very best for a new nancial year ahead and a great Anniversary Issue reading.




georgettes, crepes, chiffons, shantung, satin and ready-to-wear apparel – sarees, lehengas, skirts & tops, velvet dupatta, dress, salwar-kurta etc. There were knitted garment that is recently being retailed by UCB (United Colours of Benetton) and VFY socks from Mustang. The home textiles made from coarser yarns were products of D'Decor. There was a wide range of nonapparel applications like, curtains and sheers, tassels, embroidered borders, laces, surgical bandages, carpets, twines, wire sleeves, braided elastics etc. Interesting, there were wallpaper samples from Japan, shawl from Libya, suit interlining from Turkey and many more.

Indian Rayon (A Unit of Aditya Birla Nuvo Limited.) stall was conceptualized on 'Fashion Royale from Nature'. The product showcased at the Fibres and Yarn 2014 was Viscose Filament Yarns which is one of the most Versatile Fashion Yarns available to the Textile Industry. Viscose Filament Yarns from Indian Rayon provide colour brilliance, lustre and drape on one hand and comfort, skinfriendliness and softness on the other. Just like Mother Nature offers a bounty of rich colours, vibrant hues and adornment with its bouquets of flowers, viscose filament yarn (VFY) from Indian Rayon is of 100% natural origin and imparts similar properties to the fabrics.

The showstopper of the stall was the collection put together by ace fashion designer Archana Kochhar. While the screen showcased 'The Indian Rayon Fashion Show' by Archana Kochhar, her collection from Indian Rayon viscose filament yarn brought out the best of this filament yarn. The drape, colour, lustre, softness accentuated the unique design. The use of georgette and velvet, along with her signature style of garment ornamentation was a breathtaking view.

The Indian Rayon stall at the Fibres and Yarn 2014 (9th edition) exuded this theme. It had the white purity of nature and the premium hues of fashion. The viscose filament yarn properties of comfort, aesthetics, utility, versatility and royal were depicted through the usage of 4 distinct subtle colours all in the shape of leaves that depict its connectivity to nature on one hand and fashion on the other. The entire product range from Indian Rayon was present at the stall. There were VFY from 30D to 1200D, bright and dyed and applications made from Indian Rayon VFY were all showcased. The viscose filament yarn range had Pot Spun Yarns (PSY), Continuous Spun Yarns (CSY) and yarns from Spool Spun technology (SSY). Indian Rayon has the exclusive license to manufacture and market the proprietary German technology of spool spun yarn under the ENKA brand name. The entire ENKA product range was also beautifully displayed. Additionally, slub yarns, golden and silver jari yarns and most importantly embroidery threads were all part of the merchandise. All fabrics possible were presented as swatches and hangers for all visitors to have a look and feel of the fabrics and the properties that Indian Rayon VFY can impart.

There were few other aspects that caught the attention. A depiction of the wood to garment story that connected with Nature, the golden theme colour that indicated the richness of the VFY fabrics, the use of glass, coloured leaves that corroborated to the uniqueness of Indian Rayon VFY, a strong identity of the Indian Rayon along with RAYONE and ENKA brands and the Archana Kochhar ensembles. The stall had many visitors from yarn dealers, weavers, exporters, fabric sourcing team of national and international fashion brands, textile associations and experts. The richness and vibrancy of fashion, the wide array of products and the premium feeling at the Indian Rayon was royal and immaculate.

The applications displayed were ready-to-stitch fabrics like


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pseudostems after fruit harvest, in non-disturbing manner. Instead, if bres are extracted from pseudostems and other byproducts viz. scutcher waste, sap and central core are utilized for production of different value added products, there is good potential for wealth and employment generation. For this, what is required is to  Create awareness amongst banana growing farmers about utilization of banana pseudostem.  Encourage entrepreneurs – may be amongst farmers or farmer groups/ cooperatives – for utilization of banana pseudostem.  Establish cluster of units (each of ve raspadors) for extraction of bres, sap and scutcher waste from farmers’ elds.  Popularization of non-woven fabric production from banana bres through cluster approach – i.e., encourage utilization of bre by establishing non-woven fabric production unit in a cluster of about 40 to 50 units. Non-woven fabric can be used in various applications such as – making composite tiles using suitable resins, ller material in mattresses, sound absorbing panel in auditoriums, heat barrier in extreme climates, geotextiles, etc.  Encourage use of peddle operated CIRCOT-Phoenix Charkha to spin quality yarn by artisans in rural area.  Encourage establishment of enriched sap production units.  Encourage farmers to utilize scutcher waste for production of vermi-compost for their own use or form farmers’ self help groups to produce vermi-compost on commercial scale.  Encourage use of bres – may be partially to make it economically viable – in making quality papers.  Encourage use of central core for preparation of food items such as candy, vegetable, starch, central core juice as ayurvedic medicine in treatment of kidney stones, etc.

Dr. Rajan P. Nachane Retired Principal Scientist and Head, QEID, CIRCOT, Mumbai. In India, banana is cultivated on about eight lakh hectare area and the leading states are Maharashtra, Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Kerala. In addition to fruit production, huge quantity of biomass (pseudostem, leaves, suckers etc.) is generated. Presently, this biomass is discarded as waste. In past, some researchers have successfully demonstrated use of banana pseudostem and leaves for extraction of bres on a small scale. Mostly the extraction is done by hand scrutching with the help of a blunt knife edge. In India, the bres are being used for preparing handicrafts, ropes etc. Under a project entitled “A Value Chain on Utilization of Banana Pseudostem for Fibre and Other Value Added Products” funded by the World Bank through National Agricultural Innovation Project managed by the Indian Council of Agricultural Research, many uses of banana pseudostem have been shown. The project was carried out in consortium mode with Navsari Agricultural University as lead centre and Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT), Mumbai, Man Made Textile Research Association (MANTRA), Surat, J.K. Paper Ltd., Songadh, Dist Tapi, Gujarat, as partners. Some statistics:  Pseudostem availability – 80 tonnes/ ha  Area under banana cultivation – 8 lakh ha  Total pseudostem availability in the country – 64 million tonnes  Fibre availability – 6.4 lakh tonnes (0.64 million tonnes)  Sap availability – 14 million tonnes, i.e., 14 billion litres  Scutcher waste – 21 million tonnes  Central core – 7 million tonnes

For extraction alone, one unit of ve raspadors employees at least 30 persons. The unit can produce about 30 tonnes of bres per annum. For utilization of the entire pseudostem available, 20000 such units will be required, that too, in rural areas where banana cultivation takes place. Thus, employment generation will be approximately six lakh persons or in man days it will be 180 million man days (6*10^5*300 with the assumption that units will be working for 300 days in a year). In the conversion of bres to fabric and end products, sap to enriched sap, scutcher waste to vermin-compost, central core to edible products, etc., there will be additional employment generation.

The major problem in non utilization of banana pseudostem bres (to be mentioned as banana bres) has been very low productivity in hand extraction. CIRCOT had earlier shown that with the use of modied raspodar machine, good quality bre can be extracted on large scale which can become economically viable. In the present project, this has been substantiated with actual work in farmers’ elds. The scutching waste and sap obtained as by-product during bre extraction can be used for preparing enriched vermi-compost and as liquid fertilizer, respectively. Apart from this, the high value products viz., mordant from sap, microcrystalline cellulose powder from bres and edible products from central core can also be obtained.

According to Shri Uday Kotak, Vice-Chairman and Managing Director of Kotak Mahindra Bank, our country urgently needs to shift focus from nance to commerce, i.e., to create more jobs. Here is an opportunity to create jobs, that too, in rural areas with utilization of agro-waste for value addition and wealth creation.

If fact, banana cultivators are nding it difcult to dispose of the

Correction corner :

Kindly note that, In issue of Jan- March 2014, Page no. 49, Article “Teens Affected By Fashion” written by two authors ie. Dr. Ela Manoj Dedhia & Ms. Heffa J. by Mistake Ms. Heffa J. name was not printed. Kindly consider it for our typing errors. Sorry for inconvenience caused.


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Kartick K. Samanta


S. Saxena, S. Basak S. K. Chattopadhyay Chemical and Bio-chemical Processing Division Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology

P R O V E N & E X I S T I N G APPLICATIONS OF PLASMA The effect of atmospheric pressure cold plasma in the improvement of hydrophilic property was measured in terms of water absorbency Application of plasma for textile time in the nylon and processing and nishing polyester woven fabrics [Samanta et al, 2009]. It was observed that a water droplet took 540 s to spread over an area of 3.79 cm2 in the untreated nylon sample, whereas it took only 1.1 s in the 60 s helium (He) plasma treated sample. In the polyester sample, the water absorbency time was reduced from 700 s to 6.7 s in the untreated and He plasma treated samples respectively. Absorption and spreading of water was very slow in the untreated sample because of absence of polar groups in the polymer back bone. However, after plasma treatment, the surface energy of the samples was found to increase signicantly due to the generation of hydrophilic groups. Plasma treatment was also utilized to improve oil absorbency in the various textile substrates [Samanta et al, 2009]. A drop of mustard oil was placed on the fabric, and time was measured to spread over a specied area. In all plasma treated samples, there was a signicant improvement in oil absorbency. In nylon, oil spreading time decreased from 152 s to 52 s in the untreated to 60 s helium plasma treated samples, respectively. Similar results were also found when the samples were plasma treated in the presence of argon, oxygen and air gases. Plasma treatment helped to reduce oil spreading time approximately by half to one third compared to untreated sample. Similar to nylon, oil spreading time in the polyester woven fabrics also decreased from 28.6 min in the untreated sample to 2.8 min in the 60 s He plasma treated sample.

Chemical processing of textile is important improve its aesthetic and functional value. However, during the wet chemical processing of textile, industry causes signicant water and air pollution towards the padding, drying, curing and post washing operation. The cost of nal product also increases due to the multiple drying operations and efuent treatments. Several technological advancements have been demonstrated in textile to reduce the consumption of water as well as efuents production, such as spray and foam nishing, digital printing and low material to liquor processing. In this context, CIRCOT propose plasma technology, that can be used for water-free textile processing and nishing by modifying the bre surface at nano-meter level. Unlike bulk modication of textile by conventional process, surface modication of textile using plasma can be utilized to develop value added products by minimal usage chemical and energy. Plasma is partially ionized gas composed of many types of species, such as positive and negative ions, electrons, neutrals, excited molecules, photons and UV light. It also bears potential for the development of valued added home, apparel and technical textile at lower cost, while addressing the environment issue. . The surface modication technique is obligated to restrict the modication in the rst few atomic layers of the bre surface, while keeping bulk properties unaltered. Plasma can survive over a wide range of temperature and pressure. The lightning bolt and solar corona are the examples of plasma in nature with quite high temeratures (>1500 °C), hence cannot be used for textile processing. In contrast, cold plasma (low temperature plasma), plasma with bulk temperature of 20-250 °C, can be used for surface modication of textile substrates.

It was also interesting to observe that even on cotton textile, oil spreading time decreased from 59.5 s in the untreated sample to 30.4 s in the plasma treated sample. Atomic force microscope (AFM) images showed that the untreated sample has smooth surface morphology. After the plasma treatment, vertical channel-like features with dimensions of <200 nm in nylon and horizontal channel-like features of ~100 nm in polyester were easily visible due to the bombardment high energy plasma species. The formation of such channels upon plasma treatment in the plasma treated nylon and polyester have increased effective capillary radius resulting in better absorption and spreading of water and oil. In the untreated cotton textile, better oil absorption was due to presence of textured and convoluted structure, and upon plasma treatment these features might have enhanced further. Improvement in oil absorbency of textile substrates would have the possible application in cleaning of surfaces contaminated with oil in the metal industry, household cleansers, and cosmetics. Plasma processing of textile is carried out in dry state hence adoption of such emerging technologies would help to develop value added textiles at lower cost, while addressing the environmental issues.

Surface modication of textile using plasma can be carried out using non-polymerizing gases (small molecule), such as oxygen (O2), nitrogen (N2), air, argon (Ar), helium (He) and big molecules such as vinyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl, carboxyl, acrylate or uorocarbon based precursor for surface activation, cleaning, oxidation, changes in surface energy, increases in surface roughness/area, etching, coating/deposition, and creation of nano-structures. These, in turn, help in improving the textile properties in terms of water absorbency, wetting, wicking, oil absorbency, rate of dyeing, printing, adhesion, antistatic, antifelting, water repellent, oil repellent, UV protectiveness, and antimicrobial. The main advantages of plasma processing of textile are (i) liquid-free dry single step operation, (ii) required minimal amount of chemicals, (iii) cost effective in terms of time and temperature, (iv) imparted functionality independent of substrate chemistry, and (vi) environment friendly. Atmospheric pressure plasma is preferred over low pressure plasma due its advantages of continuous process, lower treatment time and rapid production.

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Reference: Samanta K K, Jassal M , Agrawal A K (2009) Improvement in water and oil absorbency of textile substrate by atmospheric pressure cold plasma treatment. Surf Coat Technol. 203:1336-1342




Shraddha Teli & Sanket Valia Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai, India,

Prof. (Dr.) M. D. Teli

ABSTRACT The concept of Sustainable development of the business is explained and requirement of coherence between three bottom lines (TBL) of measuring the success of business- financial, social and environmental, is emphasized .The alarming situation of the world in terms of limited resources and GHG emission is brought to the focus which is a key factor for driving sustainability agenda. Then follows the description on importance of creating value for stake holders and the role to be played by the business enterprises in order to attain sustainability. Subsequently significance of sustainability in textile value chain is discussed, advocating that there is an urgent need to change the mindset of the people to exploit the weak ones in the value chain. In addition to TBL, the organization needs to orient its HRD policies and governance and commit strongly to ethical business practices. Sustainability makes a strong business case and hence it should be aggressively followed.

Sustainability measurement scheme The common subset of all the three circles will be very much dismal if economic performance of the company is not proportionately balanced with social and environmental performance. If neglected, the circles representing social and environmental performance will be very small (indicating just an eye wash)and then, this subset will be very small, reflecting very little of worth is truly sustainable.

SUSTAINBLE ENVIROMENT Sustainble Society Sustainable Economy

1. INTRODUCTION The concept of Sustainability needs to be first understood, since many a time’s sustainability is taken as if “something longer lasting”. However, in truest sense it’s not the longevity of the operation, but more so, it is a balanced and coherent operation which takes place without the expense of the society or surrounding environment. By definition, the UN World Commission on Environment and Development (1987), terms sustainability as the, “...development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs”.

Nested approach to Sustainablity Hence the nested approach to the sustainability shown in the next figure is projected, where in it is envisaged that the sustainable economic performance which is very vital life blood of the company should be a subset of sustainable community which intern should be the subset or sustainable environment. Though it sounds idealistic, indeed the world has been brought to the brink where in our natural resources are depleting at alarming rate; Green House Gasses (GHG) emissions are shattering the faith of the inhabitants, in the production activities being undertaken which take further toll on the scarce water and natural resources.

There was a time when success of business used to be measured only in terms of swelling profits the balance-sheet of the company showed to the shareholders. In fact “generating the profit” was considered only the sole purpose of Business and thus many of our practices in the business, could be questioned when it comes to looking at the corporate social responsibility/commitment or environmental protection is concerned. Over the years, the business success has come to the measurement of three bottom lines: Financial, Social and Environmental and in all these three aspects, a successful business organization is expected to do well. However, it has been found that the companies consider social compliance and environmental compliance more as a burden on them and hence, in order to follow the legislative norms and comply with the laws, majority are found to do an eye washmany a times called green wash, where in very little is done of the relevance on these two fronts. Naturally the integrated sustainability- as shown in the Figure.

The rare natural resources are dwindling at the shocking levels (WWF, 2010); The global social order, is crumbling and we also witness financial crisis after crisis after the Great Depression (IMF 2011).The world is witnessing earth-shattering exploitation of our non-renewable resources, climate change and its alarming effects, as well as, the growing Carbon Footprint leading to distressing consequences, such as water scarcity, declining natural capital and crop cultivation, hunger, rising costal risks, decreasing global forest areas and so on (WWF 2010). This is the result of “business as usual” practices which companies undertake in which their operations result in the unbridled exploitation of the natural capital. In other words for the company’s profitability the society and the environment are paying the cost.


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As said by Albert Einstein, “The world will not pass its current state of crisis by using the same thinking that created the situation”. It is time before it is too late, that this transformation from a culture of unfettered consumerism to a culture of sustainability has gained momentum (BIC) which further brings us to the topic of responsible production and responsible consumption.


UN Global Compact calls the business leaders of the world to follow certain basic principles of responsible business practices in order to avoid such situation from deteriorating further. This includes 10 basic principles which talk about respecting human rights, taking care of Labor, Environment, following anti-bribery code of conduct best business practices in governance etc. Having adversely impacted by the after effects of all these unbridled production activities of the business houses, the modern consumer who is enlightened on the causes of this situation and concerned about the future of our children, is increasingly shifting his/her attention to measuring prosperity, through the Ecological Footprint (Wackernagel& Rees 1996), the Genuine Saving Estimate (World Bank 2006), Human Development Index (UNDP 2009) and the Ethical Reputation Index (ERI 2008) in addition to the SENSEX – the stock exchange indexes of the corporates.

Merely having the best of technology and thus possessing certifications like ISO9001-2000 for consistent quality, Social Accountability Certification like SA8000 , Environment Compliance as depicted in ISO14000-2001 and Occupational Health &Safety Assessment System OHSAS 18001- 2007 do not guarantee that the Enterprise is going to be sustainable. We need to do beyond all is required to comply with. Sustainability permeates through the core values and commitments and thus it has to be reflected in all the sub activities of the business: it’s purchase and raw material handling policy, finance, operations, human resource development, R&D, PR, Brand image building compliance with laws of the land, marketing and customer satisfaction, after sales and way how their goods are finally disposed off, etc.

These may be some of the additional parameters for measuring corporate sustainability that are changing the businesses over the time. The companies are getting increasingly interested in stakeholder engagement process. The one which is now become inevitable, was realized as the need by Jamsetji Tata, who viewed community as not just a stakeholder of the business, but rather as the very purpose behind the business (Tata Steel 2008-09) Can we prosper as an organization when our surrounding society is in abject poverty? Our environment is totally exploited? It’s not possible, as Bill Gates puts it; and even if for a short term, we might make some money, it will be at the cost of society. Our children’s future, the very existence is in danger. Hence the age old definition of business for only making profit must see a paradigm shift and as Jamsetji Tata felt, businesses have also the responsibility of the community/ society and the environment. Hence it is important if however, progressive business organization may be, unless it takes right steps in engaging all the stake holders including its shareholders, understands their concerns and addresses them, it’s not going to be truly sustainable. 1. Creating Value for Stake holders through Sustainability

As suggested by this model business has to look within (internally) and also external climate in which business operates. It has look also for consolidation of the business for today and plan for the future growth. Hence as shown above, the Stake Holder Value model is divided into 4 quadrants. 2.1 Today, what companies should do to strengthen internally? The one bottom left-wherein today’s company has to align its operations and adopt the advanced technology in such a way that it tries to establish coherence in the triple bottom lines of business. So in addition to the financial performance, it acquires social accountability and environmental compliance. It has to put in place best of technology so that it can reduce the waste, make its operations lean, and achieves cost- effectiveness by taking all the necessary measures while maintaining international quality standards. Recycling of water, energy conservation and use of renewable energy are additional measures it has to adopt.

Sustainability encompasses not only shareholders’ financial gains, but it should be concerned about all the stake- holders. It should include social commitment-welfare of their workers and their future growth, community and their needs in terms of health, education and primary needs like water and sanitation, environment around it and see that water and air pollution is avoided and it does not burden the planet with increased Carbon footprints. It should create truly Sustainable Value model as suggested by of Hart and Milstein as shown in the following figure, is the one we all businesses have to emulate if we are concerned about true sustainability.

2.2 Today what companies should do to strengthen its image in external society? The next quadrant- bottom right which is for the external parameters in which today’s business has to work, which include management of reputation, building of image and legitimacy of operation with good rapport with the community. It is here the company has to be perceived by the government agencies, society around as an asset to them. They should be happy that such an organization is flourishing in their midst. Unless such a conducive surrounding exists, there is always an uncertainty that any NGOs, or Govt. agencies or the community at large will revolt against the operation of the company. All this is possible if right transparency and genuine commitment to society, to the law of the land, to all bodies involved in taxation, etc. is shown.

It becomes then abundantly clear that only increasing profit figures showing financial performance and doing some corporate responsibility programmes with environmental compliance will not be automatically going to make our operations sustainable.

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business in fashion trade. It was the German ban on azo-dyes which made suppliers like India, China to fall in line to exclude the dyes having such carcinogenic compounds; Red- listed chemicals, heavy metals, formaldehyde, phthalates, NPEs, etc. were all being taken off. Oeko-Tex certification certifying the use of safe chemicals and dyes became incumbent upon every exporter of garments to western world. Initially developing economies and short sighted scientists wasted their time considering them as non-tariff barriers. End of the day whatever is bad for the health and environment in the west is also bad for those reside in this part of the world. We learnt this lesson and had to fall inline, but the precious time was lost in preparing for the same. We knew post liberalization since 1990, that market is going to be globalized and we need to stand in competition with manufacturers in the developed world. Naturally our technology had to be upgraded, if we have to address the demands of the modern consumers since they are enlightened on host of issues and thanks to Face book, twitter and YouTube communication revolution. Today’s consumer is buying branded clothing; but while paying such a huge price, it is quite logical that s/he sees that her/his garments are manufactured eco- friendly way, there is no labor exploitation, there is no environmental degradation, all those who are involved in this supply chain-people as well as planet and other stake holder-all of them get their dues, no child labor is employed, society does not have to pay the cost. On the other hand, society benefits out of the growth of such businesses as they also undertake a number of welfare measures which are beyond the capacity of the government. This is what the conscious consumer wants to see. S/He wants to feel good by wearing the garments which come from the Brand which has status and image in the society of following “good business practices”. Although this should be the policy of truly committed business enterprise, possible only when Brands put their foot down and dictate the terms, it gets percolated down the supply chain. Sadly only under the compulsion and pressure from the Brands, our manufacturers of clothing, follow all the guide lines and try to become compliant, as it is the only way they can get their share in growing globalized market.

2.3 Tomorrow, keeping future growth in mind, what companies should do to strengthen itself internally for building capacity? The next top left quadrant is again for the future what steps the company should take? It is evident that within the company’s four boundaries, it has to see that right type of exclusive talent being retained. Good capability within personnel is built up. Their talent is managed well and proper incentives and opportunities provided for application of newer technology, for innovation and research and accordingly sufficient investment is made. It is necessary that such a core competence is built within so that by application of out of the box- innovative ways, newer products could be launched which can change the very matrix of their operation and growth. The frame work of VRIO needs to be looked into where in the human resources are retained and encouraged looking at the composition of Value, rarity, inimitability and organizational capacity. Hence sustainability involves highly encouraging and stimulating human development measures in place, with good room for their progress. Unless Human Resource development policies are thus not in conformity with the needs of sustainability, it is truly difficult to achieve sustainability of an enterprise. 2.4 Tomorrow, to achieve high future growth, what companies should do externally in response to macroeconomics and market? Finally the top right quadrant relates to macroeconomics of the future in the external world. The new markets are to be tapped. New ways of marketing totally different out of the box-innovative products are to be developed addressing the aspirations of the people who are at the bottom of the pyramid. The most important fast growing market is this BOP market and the aspiring population in growing economies is in fact the true market potential for the business growth. And it is here the growth will come in significant proportion. Don’t we understand why big brands are eying at India, China, Brazil, and Russia? It is not only for getting the products manufactured in these regions, but more so, that they want to manufacture at the lowest cost as they see main market in these countries.

It is also important to know that there is no more distinction between domestic customer demands Vis-à- Vis that of overseas. Gone are those days when we used to think that domestic customer can accept inferior quality against the ones in the global world. Now every single brand is available in our own market, it is a seamless market economy and hence ever one - the modern consumer wants the best garments, best in quality and cost effectiveness as well as from those brands who have great reputation and brand image. And to help modern consumer to distinguish between what is good and what is questionable accrediting agencies have come up with certifications. These certifications indicate that the garments are produced responsibly with all compliances and going beyond them, indicate the Brands participation and philosophy of encouraging to decrease Carbon footprints. Surely such labels enlighten the consumer, as to what brand needs to be supported in the interest of the community and planet as a whole. More the consumers support such Brands, more financial muscles the brands get in advocating sustainability measures not only to their direct suppliers(manufacturers) ,but also down the value chain, that is to the supplier’ supplier i.e. raw

All this has to happen with transparency and good governance. We have seen the economic empires are crumbling down because of bribery, corruption and greedy business practices and it is here the commitment to values-the inner driving force which listens to the voice of conscience is important.” There is a sufficiency in the world for man’s need but not for man’s greed.” These words of Mahatma Gandhi are to be remembered as they have roots in sustainable operations and self-reliance at its core. 1. Sustainability and Textile Value Chain Hence unquestioned commitment to values and belief in welfare of the society is strong, true sustainability will always elude us. Till then what we should do? Do the things as market forces are making us to follow whether we like it or not and get attuned to doing such “good things” even if it is with reluctance. For example, let us apply this philosophy of sustainability to our Textile Value Chain in Garment manufacturing and supplying to the brands. Thousands of textile manufacturing units are following what the western consumer wants today, as the US and European Brands actually are dictating the terms of the retail


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material suppliers to the manufacturers and in final analysis more and more people and planet may benefit.

has to undergo pressure from various quarters which include investors, customers, NGOs, competitors, legislations, suppliers, media and public. And while maintaining the cordial relationship with all these stake holders, the retailer has to build the brand image and thus parameters of sustainability is one of the greatest tools for the retailer to score on their competitors and attract the public opinion as well as customers.

2. Sustainability requires changing our mind-set of exploiting the weak! Hence Sustainability—is just not limited to compliance of what is required to do by law, but to do beyond the compliance and follow true culture of achieving true prosperity which can benefit all the stake holders. It is a philosophy and way of living the life and has to be depicted in Technology, raw material and Inventory management, management of money and of human resources, management of Environment and all the other aspects of business with total transparency. Good governance and ethical and transparent financial business practice are bedrock of such enterprise.

In addition to various sustainability dimensions of the product as far as its manufacture is concerned, no customer is going to buy the product if it is not trendy, if it does not make him to make style statement which s/he looks for, if it does not give the functional value for specific purpose wears. These kinds of thus functional performances are additionally expected by the modern customer as he knows they are important for his wellbeing and for getting maximum value for the money paid. Some of the functional effects customers would like to see depending upon the type of product include the following:

Coming back to specific requirements, one also needs to know that days are being counted of the exploiting practices of the manufacturer who continually squeeze his suppliers of raw materials say dyes, chemicals, fabric in terms of buying from them at rock- bottom price leaving him no choice but to cheat on quality or get out of the business. These practices are rampant. Many a times misusing the terms of payments, he will not pay them for over 6 months and how can then the suppliers will survive? What kind of sustainability in value chain they can incorporate? What manufacturer’s do is an actually stem from what brands do with the manufacturers. While Brands demand all the measures to be in place as far as sustainability is concerned, none of them are ready to pay a few pence more. Brands find manufacturers as weak- ones ,dependent on them and thus try to exploit them and manufacturers in turn, instead of seeking right price from Brands ,find easy way to exploit suppliers –the next weak link and seek unreasonably rock bottom price for their materials- dyes, chemicals, fabrics etc. But this cannot last longer and these kinds of practices are actually real hurdle in sustainability.

• • • • • • • • •

Hence we need to gear- up for the requirements of the future generations. 1. Sustainability and R&D activities at ICT • Hence Sustainability and Green Technology are intertwined. Some of the efforts of our Institute of Chemical Technology includes first and foremost that it has started a Master’s Degree course in Green Technology. Besides that at the Textile Department every singly research student doing his her work has sustainability at the core. Some work for process intensification to find the processes which are energy and chemical efficient, production efficient, with improved performance in a cost effective ways. Among many of the research areas, following are a few which

Hence it is important that in the truest sense if such Green technology applications are to remain sustainable, the brands which actually earn a hefty profit margins should pass on their share to all those involved in their supply chain so that every one’s financial health is well maintained and they grow healthily and continue to supply conforming to whatever quality of the materials they have agreed upon. 3. Sustainability: It makes business sense and not a burden to carry on. Like in all other fields, Sustainability in Textiles is also about starting with the end in mind; but with the added responsibility of making the right choice, right first time, because there is voluminous use of the end products and hence whatever little we save, it is indeed going to make a significant difference. Sustainability in the value chain through green chemistry is in fact something which makes business sense and it offers one a competitive edge if the company emphasizes on innovation and R&D. We need to adapt to measures like eco-friendly processing with energy and water efficient processes, making such measures financially sound and paying. Minimization of waste generation, recovery of various chemicals and heat, adapting to the substitutes which are bio- degradable, conforming to standards and legislations and getting accredited with eco-labels are some of the steps today ’s enterprise has to undertake. The business has become so much competitive that every retailer

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Water repellent finish Oil Repellant finish Stain resistant finish Self- cleaning finish Antibacterial finish and Fragrance finish for freshness UV Protecting finish Electromagnetic shielding Flame retardant and heat stable finish Wrinkle free and durable press finish


Application of Starches extracted from Waste g e r m i n a t e d g r a i n s i n Te x t i l e s t o b e u s e d a s Thickeners in Printing as well as their modification into Super absorbents.

Wr i n k l e f r e e f i n i s h i n g o f c o t t o n u s i n g n o n formaldehyde finishing agents PCA- PMA, CA etc.

Hygienic, Fragrant and Mosquito repellent cotton using Natural oils

Microencapsulation of fragrant essential oils

Natural dyeing of Cotton using safer mordents

Modified dyes with antibacterial properties

• •

Microbial Dyes De-polymerization of Polymers PET, Nylon and synthesis of dyes, surfactants and antibacterial

Use of various absorbents for dye removal and heavy metals from effluents

2. Ethical commitment and Sustainability

room for any exploitation or bribery are some of the features of an enterprise which can vouch for sustainable business operations. Such business activities will create positive value and generate true wealth in the environment by following in letters and spirit, the words of Mahatma Gandhi, “Be the change you want to see in the world.”

With this forgoing discussion question arises that is sustainability a choice or inevitable path for all of us to follow at least to secure a future for our children. We cannot rob their future for our benefits since it is not absolutely worth it and thus, this planet has to be cared for. Caring for People and planet will not be sustainable unless there is a strong commitment of the management and mainly the promoters as well as all the stake holders. There is equal responsibility on the consumers to encourage goods which are manufactured with sustainability at the core. But to me Social Accountability, commitment and environmental respect cannot come without the ethical commitment of top management and readiness to make use of transparent business practices. So the main issue is Ethical commitment which stems from internal drive, having roots into individual’s belief system. We must acknowledge that we are one world and one people and have right to coexist being inter connected. In absence of commitment to ethics, social welfare and environmental welfare will be always discounted at any convenient opportunity. Those who care for this world, such responsible businesses have to thus lead by example. Only then we can flourish. As Bill Gates puts it “Businesses cannot flourish in the midst of abject poverty” and hence corporate philanthropy is also another dimension of sustainability. Good governance and no

3. Conclusions Sustainability is not a onetime subject. A lot of awareness needs to be created from various forums / conferences etc. It has to be the core principle of functioning of any enterprise. Newer values such as “One World – People and planet” that demand acceptance to interconnectedness and co- existence of economies for collective prosperity, aimed at maximizing human happiness, will emerge. Only the ethically committed corporate firms will achieve a “winwin” situation for all the stakeholders. The business conscious of their Brand image will have to sincerely aspire to be the changeagents of society, economy and the environment by following in letters and spirit, the words of Mahatma Gandhi, “Be the change you want to see in the world.” Acknowledgements *Authors express gratitude to all the researchers whose work is cited in this article.



are biologically degradable, so that damage to the environment and ecology is minimized.

Ms. Anju Tulshyan Assistant Professor Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing S.V.T College of Home Science (Autonomous)

Right from cultivation to manufacturing of fibers, spinning, weaving, processing, garmenting and finishing textiles, more than 14000 dyes and chemicals are used and a significant of these dyes and chemicals goes in the solid, liquid and air wastes, resulting pollution of air, land and surface water. BENEFITS

The world of fashion may be stylish, glamorous and exciting but from an environmental point of view, the clothes we wear and the textiles they are made from can cause a great deal of damage .Nowadays in fashion, the words “eco-friendly,” “organic” and “sustainable” are used a lot. Sometimes it can be hard to differentiate between a brand that’s actually helping to make the planet a better place and the one that’s just riding the eco bandwagon. Some companies are cashing in on consumers' growing environmental awareness by labeling their clothes "green," without actually bringing about a change in their production process. Environmental protection is not only seen as a social commitment but also a strategy to remain in business. The demand for “Ecosafe Textiles” and “Environment friendly Textiles” is increasing. Ecosafe textiles are those which are totally biodegradable and non-hazardous substance has been used in their production at any stage. It is difficult to produce totally ecosafe textiles. However, a beginning has been made in this direction with the commercial cultivation of organic cotton in some clusters in India and abroad. It is however easier to produce eco-friendly textiles which do not contain any hazardous or toxic substance, and are produced by observing various emission norms of State and Central Pollution Control Boards and which

Organic fibers are grown without the use of harmful pesticides or genetically modified organisms so they promote a healthier farm and environment.  Harmful manufacturing chemicals are not allowed in organic textile production, so it is better for local wildlife, animals and people.  Organic textiles don’t contain allergenic, carcinogenic or toxic chemicals.  Eco fashion clothes are made using organic raw materials, such as cotton grown without pesticides and silk made by worms fed on organic trees.  These clothes are often made from recycled and reused textiles. High-quality garments can be made from secondhand clothes and even recycled plastic bottles  They are made to last, so that people keep them for longer They come from fair trade that is people who make them are paid a fair price and have decent working conditions. Some of the prominent countries that are hugely investing in eco clothing are US, Japan, UK, and EU. Countries like India, Tanzania, China, Peru, Egypt, US, Syria and Burkina Faso are the largest producers of organic cotton in the world. Many famous brands namely Nike, Marks & Spencer, Timberland, Reebok, and 


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Wal-Mart have set a trail by starting the production and selling of organic products. Some of the eco clothing brands are: • Woodland: It has been among the first companies in the early 2000 to start innovating green products and processes. • Ecofi/Ecospun: This is made from recycled plastic pop bottles by Wellman Inc in USA • Eco skin: Based in USA, this brand makes use of only eco friendly fabrics made from renewable resources. • Element Ecowear: This brand makes use of fair trade certified bamboo and hemp fibers for making clothes. • Dongguan Humen Yuefeng: This brand uses 100% eco friendly cotton to manufacture clothes mostly for adults, both men and women. • Grassroot by Anita Dongre: The concept of organic clothing in India gained popularity with the launch of designer Anita Dongre’s label Grassroot, in 2007. It is an organic clothing brand that promotes usage of cellulosic or organic fibers, vegetable dyes, bamboo jersey fabric and re-uses waste products in the form of manure. • Madura Garments: Among the big brands Van Heusen, the apparel brand from Madura garments has launched its Green Range of apparel in the year 2010. The Organic range started with limited edition, but soon saw it flying off the shelves. • Levi's Eco: Levi's, which already retails organic jeans in the US market, has an organic line for male and female denims called Levi’s-Eco. While the cotton used by the company for making jeans is organic, the button on the waistband is made of coconut shell. There are no metal rivets, the dye is from natural compounds, and the label is from recycled cardboard. Thankfully organic clothing offers a solution. Buying durable, long-wearing clothing is better for the environment. Clothing that lasts many years reduces the need for replacing garments frequently and thereby conserves natural resources and, minimizes the amount of waste going to landfills. So many of today’s garments are made to low-quality standards from fabrics that wear out quickly. But with organic clothing produced, the quality of the fibres should rarely be a concern. To certify a garment to be organic, it must be processed throughout without the use of synthetic chemicals. Whether it is chemicals used to add colour to fabrics or methods used to fix those dyes to the fabrics or the waste water disposal once the fabrics have been dyed. Each stage needs to be monitored carefully. GOVERNMENT INITIATIVES Government must be on the front foot to offer following incentives:

6. Awareness creation programmes and sponsoring of Research Projects for production of eco friendly textiles. 7. Introduction of the system of Annual rebate like khadi rebate. FOR MEETING THE CHALLENGE: 1. Conducting Training& creating awareness for management and workers to make them environment responsible. 2. Introduction of environmental management systems. 3. Separate courts for environmental disputes. 4. Emission norms to be made practical and fixed in consultation with the industry. The textile industry in general and textile wet processing in particular is passing through serious challenges. Eco consumerism is widely spreading the world over. Eco labeling has become a philosophy and way of life and is ever increasing. Organic dyeing procedures are still inadequately developed in the world. India could probably take a lead given its background in natural dyeing. Various specialty chemical and dye manufacturers are also coming forward with their list of Eco-friendly products and time is not too far when not only the customers in international market but those in domestic market will also insist for “Eco-friendly textile”. BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. M. Miraftab & A.R Horrocks (2007). Eco textiles- The way forward for sustainable development in textiles. Boca Raton B o s t o n , N e w Yo r k , W a s h i n g t o n D C : W o o d h e a d publishing Ltd. 2. K e i t h S l a t e r ( 2 0 0 3 ) E n v i r o n m e n t i m p a c t o f t e x t i l e s Production, processes & protection. Boca R aton Boston, New York, Washington DC: Wood head publishing Ltd. 3. and environmentally friendly fashion.phtml 4. 5. h t t p : / / w w. e a r t h t i m e s . o r g / g r e e n - b l o g s / e c o - f r i e n d l y fashion/how -fresh-fashion-top-eco-brands-15-Aug-12/

1. Duty concession and low interest finance for effluent treatment plants. 2. Subsidy on Common Effluent Treatment Plants. 3. Rebate on water cess on undertaking pollution control measures. 4. Eco-testing laboratories throughout the country. 5. Ban on Benzedine based dyes and other carcinogenic dyes.

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Shri S. Chakrabarty Secretary General, Textile Machinery Manufacturers' Association (India) (TMMA )

1. Ginning & Spinning: The entire range of Spinning machinery manufactured in India, including ginning machinery, blow room machinery, cards, draw frame, combers, speed frame, ring frame, ancillary machinery, two for one twisting and auto-cone winding machines and parts and accessories, in general, are at par with international standards.

The Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) in India is almost 8 decades old. The history of textiles and textile machinery is very closely interlinked to the history of India. The great Indian charka is a symbol of India’s struggle for independence. Today it has modied itself into a large spinning industry as well as spinning machinery manufacturing industry. The industrial revolution in 18th century led to the development of textile machinery and textile industry in Europe which came to India in 19th century. The textile machinery production in India started in 1937 but it came into its own only in the 1950s onwards.

In ginning there are innovations to control the contamination in cotton by reducing human handling, maintaining humidity in pala houses and bins, auto feeding etc. There are 5/6 manufacturers in ginning. • Capacity of ginning machinery is adequate and there are exports and practically no imports. • There is adequate capacity in spinning. The total capacity of Ginning and Spinning is Rs. 5,000 crore. It meets over 75% of domestic requirement. In the coming years, it is likely to meet 90% of the requirement. There are domestic as well as foreign players. The technological gap is minimal. In term of spindles, the total capacity is approximately 6.5 million. Unfortunately the textile industry is not capable to absorb this capacity.

Over this long journey the industry has created a capacity of Rs. 9,350 crore while the total investment could be around Rs. 7,800 crore. There are over 1,400 units in the industry employing over 2,50,000 workers directly or indirectly. It is exporting 20-25% of its production to over 60 countries including some industrially advanced ones. The TEI always suffered to a great extent due to the periodic bad condition of the Indian Textile Industry. Lack of consistent demand has forced the industry to reduce its production. The production data of the TEI during the last nine years (given below) would be a testimony to the above fact (Fig. in Rs. crore]

• Auto Coner with auto feed and auto doff & high speed rotor spinning machines, and airjet spinning machines are not manufactured in the country today. Except there is limited demand for such machines per annum. The same may be the reason due to which there is no indigenous development till date. It is needless to mention that Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd., Kirloskar Toyota Textile Machinery Pvt. Ltd., 2012-13 Rieter India Pvt. Ltd., Truetzschler India Pvt. Ltd., 2310.00 Zinser Textile Systems Pvt. Ltd., Veejay Lakshmi 965.00 Engineering Works Ltd. etc. are the most reputed manufacturers of spinning machinery in the country. 445.00






























































30.36 3552.86 152.41

36.04 4220.26 181.32

47.00 5516.40 237.04

50.46 5901.93 253.07

33.31 3895.61 167.39

35.00 4075.00 170.00

50.00 5950.00 200.00

20.00 4910.00 370.00

45.00 4925.00 725.00





















2.Weaving: The total capacity is Rs. 703 crore. 

Weaving Preparatory: The technology is at par with international standards. There is enough capacity and production. Some of the reputed manufacturers are Prashant Gamatex Pvt. Ltd., Jupiter Comtex Pvt. Ltd., Rabatex Industries etc.

Weaving (Shuttle loom): Many manufacturers are supplying almost 40,000 to 50,000 power looms per annum. There are few manufacturers of automatic shuttle looms for which demand is less. There are over hundred manufacturers. Reputed manufacturers are Laxmi Textile Stores, Dynamic Looms, Honest Trading Company Pvt. Ltd., Premier Looms Manufacturers Pvt. Ltd., etc. 

Source : TMMA Note : Data are based on the survey of Textiles Committee

The periodic recession coupled with global recession has hampered the growth of the TEI to a large extent. It is yet to achieve the target of Rs. 10,000 crore as set by the XI Plan. The liberalization of the industrial and trade policies during 1991-92 had severely affected the capital goods sector specically the TEI. The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme introduced by the Government in 1999 for the Textile Industry created a good investment climate which forced the textile machinery manufacturers to increase their capacity to a considerable extent to meet the rising demand of the textile industry. However, the global recession during 2007-08 and the subsequent years had a great impact on the sustainability of the TEI. It is not clear when it would be possible for the TEI to grow again at a faster pace as it happened during 2003-04 to 2007-08.


Weaving (Shuttleless Looms): A number of manufacturers of old technology Rapier looms (Crank Beat-up) has come into existence. These numbers are on the rise. Present installed capacity is almost 16,500 looms per annum, though production has not reached beyond 2,500 per annum. However demand is increasing, it is hoped that within a span of another 2 years there would be approx. 30 manufacturers in the country. It is assumed that shortage of labour is responsible for increase in demand for this type of low cost

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4. Processing and Finishing Machinery: The total capacity is approx. Rs. 900 crore.

low tech shuttleless looms. New technology rapier looms (Cam beat up) have been developed indigenously. But its commercial exploitation has not been possible due to the preference of imported second hand looms and cheaper Chinese looms. Things may change if the Government restricts the import of second hand looms.

There are more than 50 manufacturers of processing machinery in the country. Almost an entire range of processing machinery is being manufactured now in the country, along with continuous scouring, bleaching, mercerising, washing, dyeing plants, preshrinking ranges and more, by the domestic manufacturers. The indigenous machinery available now competes on an even footing with their European counterparts with low material to liquor ratio, and is capable of processing fabric with comparable results at a very reasonable cost. All critical electronic components and equipments are imported. All other types of parts and accessories are also made in India.

• New technology Air Jet Loom has been developed indigenously. Though it has made its presence felt in some centres, the commercial success is still missing. The reason is very simple. Why one should buy the untested loom when the imported second hand loom is available at 50% cost of domestic loom? • New technology water Jet Loom has also been developed. Its cost is of the imported new loom. Here the question is how the domestic manufacturer would be in a position to offer same quality of imported loom at this cost. At the same time if they make it more sophisticated, the increase in cost will jeopardise the marketing because the second hand water Jet looms and Chinese new looms are cheaper. Therefore, the commercial success is still far off.

For batch processes perhaps, we have the best quality machines when compared with other countries. Quality of textiles processing in Indian machines is at par with international standards. Technology gaps exist only in case of special purpose processing and nishing machinery and continuous plants. Nowa-days, this gap is also getting reduced. Many hi- tech machinery are being manufactured in the country for e.g. Continuous Bleaching Plant, Dyeing Plant, Washing range, Preshrinking Range, Indigo dyeing Plant, Stenters etc. The important manufacturers are Harish Enterprise Pvt. Ltd., Yamuna Machine Works Ltd., Dhall Enterprises & Engineers Pvt. Ltd., Kusters Calico Pvt. Ltd., Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd., InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd., etc.

• Reputed manufacturers of shuttleless looms are Alidhra Weavetech Pvt. Ltd., Aalidhra Texpro Engineering Pvt. Ltd, Dynamic Autolooms India Pvt. Ltd., Lifebond Machines Pvt. Ltd., Laxmi Shuttleless Looms Pvt. Ltd., Billimora Engineers Pvt. Ltd., Orange Weaving Engg. Pvt. Ltd., etc. There are approx. 20 manufacturers and more are coming into existence. • Cam beat up hi-tech shuttleless Looms with all important features such as electronic let off, electronic take up, inverter driven motors, pick nding mechanism and other essential controls are now being manufactured by 3/4 companies. These are running at speed of 250-350 rpm at a price range below Rs. 10 lakhs. Further developments are going on. Even, the crank beat-up ordinary shuttleless looms have been upgraded with similar features which are capable of producing high quality fabrics at a cheaper cost suitable for exports. These looms will be best suited for the modernization of textile industry specically the decentralised powerloom sector.

Existing capacity meets over 50% of the requirement 5. Testing & Monitoring Equipments The Indian textile engineering industry started developing testing and monitoring equipment in the 60s. Today a wide range of high quality latest generation equipment are being manufactured in the country. Almost 80% of the requirement is met by the domestic manufacturers. The total capacity is Rs. 220.17 crore. In this segment critical components and electronic controls are imported. Premier Evolvics is the most reputed manufacturer of testing equipments. There are others viz. Mag Solvics Pvt. Ltd., Pioneer Instruments & Innovations, etc.

3. Synthetic Machinery: The capacity is Rs. 1,000.00 crore approx. All kinds of synthetic machines such as Draw Texturising, TFO Twister, H. S. Winder etc. except bre/lament manufacturing chemical plant, are produced. India is self-sufcient in such machinery. There are also exports to different countries. We are competing with the reputed manufacturers of the world on equal footing. There is practically no import as there is no technology gap.

6. Jute Machinery Even in jute machinery the perce7tage share of demand is over 60%. There are half a dozen good manufacturers of jute machinery in the eastern part of the country. Many items of jute machinery are being manufactured here with total capacity not exceeding Rs. 70 crore.

Most of the components of the synthetic bre/lament mechanical processing machinery are made in India. Surat, Rajkot, Surendranagar are the main centers for the manufacture of spindles, spindle pots, spindle inserts, etc. Only critical electronic equipment like PLC controls, servo motors etc. are imported. There is no manufacturer of bre/ lament producing machinery except PP production line.

Lagan Engineering Co.Ltd., Kolkata is the major manufacturer of jute machinery and its parts, components and accessories. There are some small engineering units which are also manufacturing jute machinery parts and accessories in Kolkata, West Bengal. 7. Parts/Components and Accessories: Capacity is almost Rs. 1,000 crore.

Important manufacturers are Himson Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Himson Textile Engineering Industries Pvt. Ltd., Aalidhra Technotex Industries, Aalidhra Texpro Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Premier Looms, Meera Industries Pvt. Ltd., Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd., etc. there are almost 50 manufacturers in this category. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

The parts/components and accessories also play a major role in manufacturing and maintenance of the textile machineries. These are: Bearings, Beams, Bobbins, Bobbin Holders, Bushes, Card Gauges, Ceramic Guides, Cone and Tubes, CopsAluminum/Steel, Drums, Filters, Flat Tops, Motors, Needles, Pins, Pirns, Belts, Rollers, Humidiers, Over Head Traveling 44

The capacity of domestic hosiery and garment making machinery is approx. Rs. 70 crore.

Cleaners, Shuttles, Healds, Reeds, Spindle Tapes, Trolleys, etc. a. Except some critical parts, most of the items are manufactured

Similar is the case of nonwoven and technical textiles machinery. There was very little demand in the past. However, there are many technical textile items which are being manufactured in indigenous machines eg. Glass ber fabrics, sh nets, mosquito nets, lter fabrics etc. etc.

b. High speed cam dobby, electronic dobby and jacquard are not manufactured There is a long list of companies manufacturing parts components and accessories. Some of them are Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt. Ltd., The Indian Card Clothing Co. Ltd., Mayur Reeds healds Pvt. Ltd., Maksteel Wire Healds Pvt. Ltd., Simta Machinery, NRB Industrial Bearings Ltd., SKF India Ltd., Surya machinery Mfg. Pvt. Ltd., Laxmi Textile Stores, Metalreeds & Mill Store Manufacturers, Sumatex Ltd., Dynamic Autolooms India Pvt. Ltd., etc.

Textile Engineering Industry was patronized by the Textile Industry when it came into being. Over the period of last 6/7 decades, the gap between the industries increased due to some reason or the other. However, no user industry can prosper with dependence on the imported technology in the long run as it would increase the cost of investment. The country as a whole would not prosper as there would be no value addition. In order to increase the GDP growth there is an absolute need for a homogeneous growth across the industries which are complementary to each other. Therefore all the stake holders including the Government should help the domestic textile machinery manufacturers to come up to the expectations.

MACHINERY ITEMS NOT MANUFACTURED It is true that hi-tech garment making machinery and knitting machinery are not made in India. There is of course no shortage of ordinary domestic sewing machines and low tech knitting machines. But the decentralized character of the hosiery and garment sector has never been conducive for indigenous development.

This article reects the personal view of author.



Why did the Indian textile industry which could climb the summit, when the manufacture of textiles was a craft, and was successful in the initial years of factory production could not hold its own in the international race after the lapse of some years? The industry by then, had got all that was necessary for a successful run, an astute management tapestry, assured availability of skilled workers, devoted technical staff and all-round commitment in the factory complex. Was there anything lacking? Yes, two things, developing technology and fashion. In the Second Plan, emphasis was laid on the development of the handloom industry and the weaving capacity in the organized sector was frozen. At the same time, the import policy was tightened making imports of textile machinery difcult. The issue of modernisation failed to receive proper consideration of the authorities and had to take a back seat. Golden Gift In the meantime, the industry which was once exporting one thousand million yards of cloth per annum was unable to go beyond 300-400 million yards, in a year. Government realized the heavy backlog of modernization was a tremendous drag on the industry. Recognizing the importance of giving a facelift to the industry, Government formulated a scheme for modernization of the textile industry to promote fresh investments and infusion of modern technology in the late 1970s. The scheme heralded the arrival of a new phase of rejuvenation of machinery to strengthen the sinews of the industry. However, the industry got a real llip when the Technology Upgradation Scheme, universally known as the agship scheme of the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India was launched on 1st April 1999. It is a golden gift to the textile industry which brought about its unbelievable transformation. Overwhelming response to TUFS In the initial years of TUFS the response was somewhat lukewarm. But once the scheme struck a chord, it picked up the

Shri. V.Y.Tamhane Secretary General, Mill Owner Association (MOA) A study of the level of upgradation of technology achieved in the realm of spindles shows that at the most 28 million spindles are modern out of 49 million spindles. In the case of looms, it is found that out of about 24 lakh power-driven looms in the country the population of shuttleless looms is 1.10 - 1.20 lakh, with the majority being second-hand. Glorious Past The spinners and weavers of ancient and medieval India had attained the pinnacle of glory in their craft. The medieval European History refers to the grievance of some European countries that Indian cloth merchants carried back home bags full of gold on supply of exquisite, eye-catching, mind-blowing fabrics, which were the fancy of the topmost layer of the society. Another example is of famous Dacca Muslin. It used to be so ne that a piece of Muslin could easily pass through a nger-ring. The height of excellence scaled by Dacca weavers had a tragic end, as the story goes, with their thumbs being chopped off. It is now all history frozen in time. Unduly Long Summer From the position of supremacy in the international race, the scenario started changing fast, after the start of factory production of cloth. The Second World War was a turning point for the textile industry in India, because there was tremendous pressure on the industry to supply adequate quantities of cloth to Allied Forces, apart from meeting the clothing requirements of the country. This resulted in the intensive utilization of machinery, skipping normal upkeep or maintenance. The worn-out machinery required early replacement. 45

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speed and then there was no looking back. Within a period of 15 years fresh investments in the industry were of the order of nearly 2.6 lakh crore of rupees, which even the most optimistic must not have dreamt at the start of the scheme. Large investments in xed assets brought in its wake the desired results. Export of textiles and clothing (excluding bres and wastes) took a long jump from US $ 9 billion in 1999-2000 to US $ 32 billion in 2013-14 i.e. a jump of 255% in a period of 14 years, at average growth rate of 18 % per annum. In the case of labour employment, the growth in direct employment was from 33.17 million in March 2006 to 35.4 million in 2008 and to 42.6 million in 2012 and is expected to rise to 53.2 million in 2018. Along with allied sectors like cotton cultivation, cotton ginning/pressing, cotton trade, sheep rearing, Textile Machinery and accessories, the total employment increased from 88.02 million in March 2006 to 105.4 million by March 2011 and is expected to touch 121 million by 2016-17. Population of modern spindles At this stage, it is worth examining the population of modern spindles and looms in the industry. Since import and export gures of spindles are in kg, unlike domestic production gures, which are in numbers, as it should be, it is necessary to convert gures in kg into numbers. For this purpose, it has been assumed in consultation with some experts, that the weight of one spindle is one kg. Within the aforesaid constraints, the number of modern spindles in the industry has been estimated at about 28 million. In good old days, there used to be an ofcial publication giving age-wise distribution of important machinery. Even if this publication was not issued with regular periodicity, an earlier issue of it can be updated on the basis of gures of import, export and domestic production of machines. In the absence of the publication, it is a herculean task to build a good estimate of modern machines. Nevertheless, within the aforesaid constraints the number of modern spindles in the industry is estimated at about 28 million. At the end of FY 2012-13, the number of installed spindles was 49.17 million, as per Annual Report of CITI for 2012-13. It means about 57% of spindles could be reckoned as modern. In other words, it is still a long way to go to modernize the entire industry. Furthermore, modernization is not a one-time operation, but a continuous process. Spindles installed in the earlier period of TUFS would eventually require replacement, because of the fast pace of the introduction of machines of later generations. Population of shuttleless looms The weaving sector is practically in the decentralized sector, as there are only 52,000 looms in composite mills and another 15,000 looms in exclusive large weaving units including 100% exportoriented units. At the same time, there are 22-23 lakh powerlooms in the small-scale powerloom sector. The total complement of 1.10 – 1.20 lakh shuttleless looms as of date spotlights the gigantic magnitude of the problem of backlog.

What needs to be done? Since weaving is the weakest link of the textile chain apart from processing, it is necessary to give top priority for hastening the pace of modernization of weaving. Two policy packages are required one for spinning and the other for weaving. Package of measures for spinning There is an urgent need for consolidation of the powerloom industry. For this purpose, a large number of powerloom parks should be set up at major powerloom centres. An innovative scheme which will not cast unbearable nancial burden on powerlooms needs to be evolved for the purpose. The provision of centralized facilities for designing and developing fabrics is a must. The scheme may provide services of experts of fabrics geometry which will help manufacture novel and innovative fabrics for different purposes and end-uses. Built-up areas called Galas in Powerloom Parks should be allotted on hire-purchase basis, with a low rate of interest so that the question of making upfront payment may not arise. The scheme should give preference to existing powerloom factories, preferably those which are registered with the State Directors of Industries. To ensure availability of quality yarn to the decentralized sector, at economic prices, the supply of such yarn should be increased. The Revised Restructured TUFS provides for 2% interest reimbursement for stand-alone spinning units, while for units having spinning capacity with forward integration having matching capacity in weaving/knitting/processing/garmenting 5%interest subvention is provided. Twenty three to twenty four lakh powerlooms, whose number is increasing every year and equal number of handlooms (whose number keeps on dwindling) whom spinning mills supply yarn are the downstream industries connected (if not attached) with the spinning mills. There is another dimension to this issue. In the case of two reputed manufacturers of spinning frames in the country which were the main source for supply of modern spinning frames, production of one unit in 2012-13 was 75% of its production in 2011-12, while in the case of another unit it was 40%. This has happened at a time when there is good demand for yarn both domestic and external. If a comprehensive account is taken of the need to increase supply of quality yarn to meet rising demands in the domestic market and for exports, and of the existence of unutilized capacity of reputed manufacturers of spinning frames in the country, Government may like to consider the abolition of dichotomy of spinning mills and offer the same interest reimbursement of 5% to all spinning mills. Package for weaving What accelerated modernization of spinning mills which, by and large are run by reputed corporates is the domestic availability of spinning frames of international quality. What aided the aforesaid development is the large domestic market. Unfortunately, such a situation does not exist in weaving which predominantly consists of small-scale units which are not on the front foot to undertake modernisation at a rapid speed. But the fragmented units may opt for consolidation if environment is made friendly. If that happens the domestic demand for shuttleless looms will go northward. The textile industry has immense potential for earning more and more foreign exchange even in the teeth of cut-throat international competition, and expand job opportunities to accommodate fresh entrants in the employment market, but the strengthening rupee may become a cause for concern for the exporting industry. To sum up, the TUFS must continue till the industry requires such support.

Between 2007-2008 and 2012-2013, 50,602 shuttleless looms were imported into the country, of which 31,705 were second-hand ones. It means 63% second-hand shuttleless looms were imported. Such a high percentage of pre-owned looms highlights the nancial weakness of the powerloom industry to import brand new looms. Although the problem may not be insoluble, it is certainly a big challenge. The powerloom industry nds it difcult to give collateral security. In extreme cases, the factory shed belongs to one person, looms to another person, a third person operates the looms with hired labour and the fourth person called a master weaver is the person to nance the operations. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

Views expressed are the personal views of the author and not of the organizations with which he is connected. The author expresses his gratitude to Shri S. Chakrabarthy Secretary-General, TMMA and Shri Ajay Kumar Economist, CITI for data support.



SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE PRODUCTION- (STEP) Internationally recognized certification system to evaluate sustainability in the textiles supply chain-


Advantages for brands and retailers STeP allows globally operating brands and retail companies to select suitable suppliers worldwide who meet their demands related to environmental protection, chemical management and social responsibility. This enables them to clearly and completely document their joint sustainable commitment to end consumers together with in the supply chain.

‘Sustainable Textile Production (STeP)’ is a certification system for brands, retail companies and manufacturers from the textile chain who want to communicate their achievements regarding sustainable production to the public in a transparent, credible and clear manner. Certification is possible for production facilities of all processing stages from fibre production, spinning mills, weaving mills, knitting mills to finishing facilities and manufacturers of readymade textile articles as well as logistic service providers. Concept The objective of STeP certification is the permanent implementation of environmental friendly production processes, optimum health and safety and socially acceptable working conditions. The dynamic further development of the STeP standard and the benchmarks allows certified companies to continuously improve their environmental protection achievements and their social responsibility as well as their efficiency. This in turn enables them to achieve the best possible competitive position in the market. Modular structure Through modular analysis of all relevant company areas such as management of chemicals, environmental protection, environmental management, health and safety, social responsibility and quality management, the STeP certification allows a comprehensive and reliable analysis of the extent of sustainable management provided by a production facility.

Advantages for production facilities Textile and clothing manufacturers can make their production processes much more efficient on the basis of a STeP certification. Our system helps them to determine their company's positioning with regard to sustainability and shows areas for improvement. The independent proof of sustainable production conditions also provides an image boost allowing the companies to open up new markets and supplier relations. Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): New Version 4.0 The Global Textile Standards (GOTS) International Working G r o u p a n n o u n c e d Ve r s i o n 4 . 0 worldwide, a standard for the processing of textiles made from at least 70% blended organic or 95% pure organic natural fibers. This standard maintains rules of 70% minimum content of certified organic fibers, the general bans on the use of substances from disputed techniques such as GMO (Genetically modified organism), Nanotechnology and Carcinogenic substances. The additional rules are on the permissible conventional 'additional fibers': These may consist of regenerated synthetic fibers – up to 30%; provided that they are environmentally improved and certified. This means that for the regenerated fibers, the raw material must be from certified organic production recognized by the forestry management. In the future, the textile manufacturers will have a lager choice of fiber mixes If they use the environmentally improved variants of regenerated synthetic fibers. A wider product selection of GOTS certified products will be made possible which will also support the increased use of Organic fibers- says Marcus Bruegel, GOTS Technical Director. In addition, both, Virgin polyester and angora have been considered as reasonable bans. The list of substances and residue parameters was further extended. In 2012, GOTS certified standards to 62 countries at 3.000 mark. It remained stable in 2013 with a slight increase of 0.085 mark. Decreases in facilities in Asia were overcompensated by the huge increase of facilities in Europe. This is considered a positive sign as it means there is scope of increasing competition in addition to the effective supply chain management.

Scoring STeP certification encompasses three different levels describing the extent to which the company has achieved sustainable production and working conditions:  Level 1 = entry level  Level 2 = good implementation with further optimisation potential  Level 3 = exemplary implementation in the sense of a best practice example

India has maintained her position at the top position for five years in a row. At the end of 2013, there were 1,029 GOTS certified facilities in India. There has been an increase in the GOTS certified products being sold in the retail market in India with more brands and stores supporting GOTS. GOTS exhibited at the National Garment Fair, Biofach India and Indiatex in 2011. 49

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|


EMPLOYEE RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT It has been proved beyond doubt that companies with high employee satisfaction have high customer satisfaction as employees are responsible for customer satisfaction and delight. Improving Employee relationship is a business strategy and a cultural issue and technology can help to automate employees daily tasks as well as improve cross-enterprise communication. For this to happen it is very important to survey employees for these reasons:

Mr. Manish Nangia Assistant Professor-FMS National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi Research Scholar-Singhania University Pacheri Bari, Jhunjhunu (Rajasthan)

Employees are the key to transform a sound business strategy into bottom line results, yet few organizations are able to provide their work force with the tools and information they need to bridge the gap. Employee Relationship Management is a cutting edge, critical business process that enables your employees to do their job better. In other words it is a process used to better manage your relationships with your employees, as well as at the working practices and effectiveness of your workforce. The concept of ERM will be even bigger than the concept of Customer Relationship Management which is prevailing these days because for Customer Relationship Management to be effective, companies need to have motivated and committed employees which is possible with the help of ERM.

(a) To capture employees opinions on issues important to their satisfaction like benefits, policies, management etc. (b) To reduce Turnover Rates as well as the Cost of Recruitment , Hiring, Retaining and Retraining employees. (c) To get feedback for increasing the effectiveness of management and various ways to raise the morale of employees. ERM is based on a sustainable, cost effective and integrated environment for the organization’s workforce. Employers interact with their employees through automated and manual base processes on a daily basis. ERM solutions should be designed in such a way so as to:

According to Kronos, ERM is defined as the technology that delievers streamlined administrative functions to your operations, productivity tools to your managers and communication improvements throughout your enterprise. ERM is the latest concept which focuses on “E” i.e. Employee. To benefit employees, an ERM solution must enable them to work smarter which means providing them information on training, career growth and industry information. ERM must also offer benchmarks on how the employee affects the bottom line i.e. How does his contribution help the company.

(I) Improve Employee Retention: Employee attrition results in poor customer service. Having inexperienced employees interact with customers is a huge disservice to those customers and now it is the era of service. If customers will not get excellent service they will move to some other service provider and the whole purpose of business will be lost. So ERM should aim at retaining the employees longer in their organization for better customer satisfaction. (ii) Improve Revenue and Profits: As employees stay with their company longer, their training costs decrease. Employees that are satisfied with their job and who have

Companies may choose to deploy an Employee Relationship Management application for a number of reasons. It can be a vague sense of unease that something is wrong with their internal operations like poor internal communication with employees or a blinding sign that something is wrong, such as a public crisis of faith over the company’s integrity or competency. Through the integrated internal systems, ERM allows employees to have necessary information at their fingertips to meet Customer’s needs, while at same time working towards Corporate objectives as well as meeting and managing personal goals. The ideal ERM should do the following:

long term experience provide customers with the best possible service. Customers will than be more inclined to stay loyal to the company, providing greater profits over time which will result in long term profitability. ERM encompass all human resources solutions that cover the entire employee life cycle from Recruitment to Compensation to Workforce Development to Retirement. ERM provides the ability to ensure that your overall goals cascade down to the organization with actionable objectives and measurable results and it also provides a broad overview of company’s human capital and potential. Typically the benefits of ERM includes:

1. It should enable employees to understand their role in their organization’s strategy and to focus on critical business objectives. 2. It should provide the necessary tools to enhance communication and align employee performance with business objectives.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

3. It must address the needs of every member of workforce from executive team to Managers, Frontline Supervisors to Salaried employees and Hourly workers. 4.It should empower Frontline Managers and Supervisors to understand, measure and improve productivity, even if it enables employees to work smarter and perform better.

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|


Better HR management and decision making. Optimised work force with empowered employees. Improved information sharing and visibility. Better business alignment. Reduced costs and greater efficiency. Low cost of retaining employees. More time to concentrate on value added activities.

An ISO 9001 : 2008 Company

Dynamic Looms

Weaver’s Choice Manufacurer’s Shuttle Looms, Shutteless Rapier Looms. Call: + 91 9879844411 ‘AGENT ENQUIRY SOLICITED’







TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|


Loknayak Jayprakash Narayan Shetkar






by India ITME Society B2B Market place for Textile Technology & Engineering

Event of the Industry, For the industry, By demand from industry….!!! India ITME Society announces launch of “Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015- Focus Asia” , an exclusive show for highlighting strengths of Asian Textile Engineering Industry in Mumbai, India. This special business event is being held from 20th -22nd Jan 2015 at Bombay Exhibition Centre. Established in 1980, 34 year old veteran organization in Textile Machinery Exhibitions- India ITME Society is committed to creating quality business, new business opportunities and marketing channels for Textile and Textile Engineering Industry through specialized events. The objective of GTTES 2015, a special series event is not only to showcase technology/machinery but also to address the needs of quality, variety, allied services, access to regional markets and clientele, especially for small medium enterprises. This event is to be held alternately with ITME Mega event in the years to come to encompass all aspects of textile business, technology and services. Something unique- The highlights of GTTES 2015 are: Special Focus on weaving Machinery, Garment Machinery, Knitting & Embroidery machinery, Non woven and Technical Textiles, digital printing and Technical information services . Country pavilion from China and Taiwan ensuring large scale participation and variety to address market needs. For the rst time in India, a focused event to magnify business and trade for Textile Machinery manufacturers through interaction with agents/dealers of India and overseas . Exclusive exhibition section for Spare parts, Components and Accessories of Textile Machinery across segments. Why one should participate and attend this “Focus Asia” Exhibition held in Mumbai, India? Asia today is the center of the global textile industry, the world's largest textile machinery market. Keeping in view the massive Intra- Asia trade with a growth of 8% CAGR and at US$180 Billion, ITME Society has launched a “Focus Asia” edition of exhibition to be held alternatively with ITME Series. The Asian market demand for textile machinery and demand for high performance, demand for high-quality, high degree of automation and energy-saving equipment is growing. Now the region is on the verge of entering a new phase with Intra-Asia trade predicted to double to explosive US$350 BY 2025, making it most attractive market for exporting nations. Global apparel market is expected to cross US$2 Trillion mark. 70 % of world ber processing takes place in Asia. China, India and Pakistan account for 60% of world ber consumption. Bangladesh and Vietnam are also emerging as competing textile economies. The scope and opportunity in Indian market is unfathomable

with only a small portion of the potential tapped till now. Worldrenowned manufacturers of textile machinery such as Germany Truetzschler, SSUESSEN, Switzerland Rieter, Italy Savio, Japan Toyota, etc., has strong presence in India, indicating a strong buyer’s market and long term opportunity in urban as well as regional markets in the country. Emerging Retail Industry and Malls provide huge opportunities for the Apparel, Handicraft and other segments of the industry in India. It is predicted that combined size of Chinese & Indian Apparel market will become bigger than USA and EU, making this a future opportunity for textile engineering and services. Apart from this, in India there is large scope for technical textile linked with growing industrialization, large infrastructure projects in stream. Government Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme with an investment target of Rs.151,000 crore is a big boost to machinery sector. Greater Investment and FDI opportunities are available. India’s competitiveness has signicantly improved in the last 10 years (2002-12) resulting in higher market share. India’s factor cost, particularly power and wages, have become relatively competitive in comparison with China. Manufacturing costs in spinning, weaving and processing have also become competitive. India ITME Society stitching a new catalyst for Indian market opportunitiesThus demand and need of the time, gave birth to Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015- Focus Asia, an exclusive and unique event to match the need to supply. Already participation from China, Taiwan, Japan and Indonesia are conrmed in large scale. A special pavilion for spare parts, accessories and components catering to Textile machinery is organized to give focused customer experience to manufacturers to push exports. Another unique and never before opportunity is being created for agents and dealers at GTTES 2015- Focus Asia to meet and expand their clientele, especially for weaving, technical textile segment etc. which has a huge opportunity in India. If you represent a Textile Engineering company anywhere in the world, this is an event not to be missed. If you are a Textile company in Asia, manufacturing or doing business, GTTES 2015 is the event to be in. GTTES 2015, India is your opportunity, window to innite leads, contacts, enquiries. This is a very intense focused business event and it is important that if you are in the Textile Business you should be be there in person. Contact ITME Society now at and conrm your participation as exhibitor, for business meeting, for visiting.


TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|



NONWOVEN TECH ASIA 2014 is coming to your door-step in Gujarat, for rst time in India, at Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinager on JUNE 5th, 6th and 7th.


• As the market is not established and well-built for marketing of Non-Woven products, there’s RELUCTANCE TO INVEST IN HIGH-END MACHINERY & OVERALL INFRASTRUCTURE.

As the Non-Woven Industry in Gujarat grew at a very rapid pace, it started dying at an equally fast pace. It was GUJNON who, rst, determined that there was a need for an event to spread and raise awareness about NonWoven products & educate people of its uses through exhibitions and conferences, which in turn would increase consumption , and would help the ‘ailing’ industry, and act as a platform, where all different stakeholders of the Non-Woven Industry – Users, Suppliers & Manufacturers – could learn from each other.

The worldwide Non-Woven Industry has grown steadily at about 8 % per annum (in tonnage) in the last decade. While the growth for the Non-Woven Industries in North America, Europe and Japan has relatively slowed down with maturity, these countries are still growing at more than 5% per annum. A signicant portion of worldwide Non-Woven expansion is due to the rising demand for these materials, owing to the expansion of emerging economies like Asia. India and China, clearly, are the key players contributing to this growth.

Thus, the idea of NON-WOVEN TECH ASIA 2014 was initiated. GUJNON joined hand with RADEECAL Communication – who helped in giving shape to this event.

As Non-Woven and Technical Textiles have been considered to be the most promising and dynamicsegment of the Textile Industry, the demand and consumption of Non-Wovens and Technical Textiles will grow enormously in the near future.

INDIA’s Non-Woven sector, as estimated, is expected to grow at a rate of 25 % in the following years. Driving this growth is the rising Standard of Living, owing to the constant improvement in the country’s Industrialisation Index. In spite of strong growth in recent years, the Non-Woven industry of India is still in its infancy.

The current Indian production levels in Non-Wovens are miniscule, compared to the ‘Developed Nations’ standards. The production level is expected to touch 1.0 Million Tons in 10 years, which would mean a very high growth rate for the industry.

One such measure to gauge the growth of the Non-Woven Industry is the Non-Woven consumption and its relationship to Per Capita Income. The Consumption/PPP Income(Purchase Power Parity Income) shows a seemingly linear pattern, indicating an increase in the consumption of disposable and durable NonWovenswith rise in the Per Capita Incomes. Once the per capita income reaches a critical level, the consumer spending on disposables will start to show signicant growth. The reason is obvious:with more people starting to work, and with the rise in incomes, disposable products like baby diapers and wipes come within the reach of more consumers, due to the affordability factor, and also an improvement in the standard of living.With the Indian economy poised for substantial growth in the coming decade, the Non-Woven Industry may see good times ahead. Although, the Government has taken several initiatives to drive the growth of NON WOVEN (Technical Textiles) in India, there are still certain issues that hamper its growth and penetration levels, leading to a market that has not been exploited to its full potential, till date.

ABOUT “Gujnon Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens (gujNON)” started began its humble existence with the name – “NON WOVEN MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION OF GUJARAT”. Founded as a Non-Prot Organization, the Association aims to provide a forum, wherein various issues plaguing the industry would be addressed, discussed and solutions to those be arrived at. The establishment of the association was announced at a huge gathering in Ahmedabad, held on the 25th of December, 2011. All manufacturers of Non-Woven Fabrics & Bags from across Gujarat gathered, for the rst time, to address issues of the New, yet ‘ailing’ Non-Woven Industry.

The Industry is facing certain key issues that are impeding its growth: •

NON-WOVEN Industry being FRAGMENTED, Less of organized and More unorganized sector

Inadequate AWARNESS, about the benets of NONWOVEN, which is hampering the potential demand of NON-WOVEN products in India.

Lack of Awarenessleading to the LOW PENETRATION of these products into the rural and low income areas.


Lack of SKILLED MANPOWER for new technologies associated with Non-Woven


TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

International Exhibition & Conference JUNE 5-6-7 2014 Gujarat University Convention & Exhibition Center Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India 56





 Ease In Opera on.  Reduc on Noise.  Steady We Inser ons.  Low Maintenance cost.


Friends Engineering Works Sanoli Road, Chandni Bagh, Panipat - 132 103, Haryana, INDIA. Tel : 91-0180-2661560 |Email : Contact Person: Mr. Sukhbirsingh Malik : 9812019139


ITMACH 2014, a maiden venture of Textile Excellence, the country’s leading textile publication, organized from January 2224, at Indian Corporation Premises in Bhiwandi, Maharashtra is also the rst textile machinery event of its kind, organized in the country’s largest powerloom weaving cluster and is the rst in the series of localized textile engineering exhibitions that the organizers have planned.


business delegates visited the show, over the three days from January 22-24. While visitors from Bhiwandi were there, business delegates also came in from Ichalkaranji, Malegaon, Solapur, Ujjain, Ludhiana, Panipat, and also from Southern India. Exhibitors are happy with the overall organization of the show. “It is a well-managed show, organizers have ensured that serious business visitors came to the show from all over the country,” has been the general refrain.

The inaugural edition of ITMACH was organized with much fanfare on January 22, 2014, in Bhiwandi. The exhibition, was inaugurated by Rasheed Tahir Momin, MLA, Bhiwandi (West), Rupesh Mhatre, MLA, Bhiwandi (East), and M Y Momin, a veteran in the Indian textile industry, and President, Bhiwandi Weavers’ Federation. Around 100 machinery suppliers – Indian and international have participated in ITMACH 2014 and it has received the wholehearted support of various industry associations in Bhiwandi, and from across the country. Out of 23 lakh registered powerlooms in the country, only 1.05 lakh looms are shuttleless loom. Offtake of powerloom sector under TUFS has been negligible. This highlights the immense investment potential in machinery in Bhiwandi and other powerloom clusters. The government, through its comprehensive cluster development scheme, is encouraging investment in TUFS compatible machinery, as a minimum benchmark. The exhibition showcased technologies and machines related to weaving and weaving preparatory, spinning, processing and nishing, printing, and other related segments. ITMACH 2014 offered a one-of-a-kind opportunity to business visitors from Bhiwandi and other textile clusters across the country, to see the latest and most appropriate technologies spanning the textile value chain. Exhibitors received serious enquiries during the rst two days of the show. Many business deals have been nalized. There was a lot of interest in weaving and allied technologies, especially of Indian origin. Weavers are nding these machines to be a good t for their upgradation needs towards shuttleless looms, in terms of productivity, price, service. International exhibitors too have received good response. Companies showcasing Indian made and Chinese machines, in particular, have booked many orders at the show. The last day of ITMACH 2014 saw huge crowds descending on the exhibition grounds, leaving very little spare time for exhibitors, during the three-day exhibition. Around 20,000 59

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|


National Seminar on “Advances in Cotton Ginning and Fibre Testing Technology”

Indian Fibre Society(IFS) in collaboration with the Central Institute for Research on Cotton technology (CIRCOT) had organized a seminar on “Advances in Cotton Ginning and Fibre Testing Technology” on February 1, 2014 at CIRCOT, Matunga, Mumbai. The seminar was attended by more than 100 scientists, technocrats, professionals from ginning and bre testing industry.

of double roller gins. This technology developed by CIRCOT in collaboration with Millenium Rubber Technologies Pvt. Ltd., Trissur, Kerala, is technology of the future. Here, the rubber roller not only reduces pollution in the ginning industry, but also, reduces cost and time of grooving which is a must for leather rollers. It also reduces energy utilization in ginning.

The inaugural session was Chaired by Dr. S.N.Pandey, President of the Indian Fibre Society, Ex-Director of ICAR Institutes – CIRCOT, Mumbai, NIRJAFT, Kolkata & CRIJAF, Barrackpore and a renowned scientist. Dr. K.K.Singh, Assistant Director General, Indian Council of Agricultural Research, New Delhi, was the Chief Guest and Mr. M.K.Sharma, President, Bajaj Steel Industries Ltd., Nagpur, was the Guest of Honour. Dr. P.G.Patil, Head, Technology Transfer Division, CIRCOT and Convener of the seminar gave brief outline about the seminar. This was followed by addresses by Chief Guest, Guest of Honour and Chairman of the inaugural session. Mr. R.M.Gurjar, Secretary, IFS, proposed vote of thanks. This was followed by two technical sessions.

The second technical session was on bre testing equipments and quality of cotton. It was Chaired by Dr. S.Sreenivasan and Co-Chaired by Dr. A.J.Shaikh, both ExDirectors of CIRCOT. In this session, on behalf of Mr. Pradeep Gupta, Mr. Aditya Gupta from World Traders MFG. Co., Mumbai, presented working principles of ‘Fibrotest’, new equipment for bre testing developed by Textechno, Germany. He gave comparison of test results for 12 cotton samples tested on HVI at Texas Tech University, Lubbock and on Fibrotest at Textechno, Germany. He showed that very high correlation existed between the values for both the instruments for all the bre parameters measured. Also, he claimed that use of calibration cotton was not necessary on Fibrotest as compared to HVI. Mr. J.C.Kulkarni, Manager – Sales, Uster Technologies (I) Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai, made presentation on Uster HVI 1000 which is used for cotton classing in USA and many other cotton producing countries. He informed that every element of the machine has been designed and developed with unique patented technology to ensure accuracy of test results. There was a presentation on quality cotton of Maharashtra by Mr. Pradeep Jain, President, Khandesh Ginning & Pressing Factory Owners & Traders Association, Jalgaon. He talked about ‘Mahacot’, a brand for cotton produced, ginned and pressed in Maharashtra, particularly from Khandesh region. Mahacot is basically for cotton bales with bres parameter: staple length – 29.5+mm, micronaire – 3.7+, trash <3%, moisture <9%, GPT 29-30. Cotton grown and ginned in Maharashtra with xed parameters and specied packing is Brand Mahacot. Mr. Jain told that branding has improved its image and has fetched better price.

The rst technical session was on ginning. It was Chaired by Dr. K.R.Krishna Iyer, Ex-Director, CIRCOT and Co-Chaired by Dr. R.P.Nachane. Mr. M.K.Sharma, President, Bajaj Steel Industries Ltd., presented about advances in cotton ginning technology in India during the past three-four years. He specically mentioned about new machineries developed by his company such as tractor mounted attachments for seed cotton grabbing, for heap making and for loading-unloading of bales, etc. Cleaning and ginning of cotton is best achieved when the moisture content is between 6 to 8%. But most of the kapas which comes for ginning usually has much more moisture than this optimum level. Mr. Sharma told that his company has devised dryers which can control moisture level in the kapas when it goes for cleaning and ginning. Er. D.Patil, Director, Karunanand Hydropneumatic Control Pvt. Ltd., Ambarnath, Mumbai 421506, explained about different types of compacting machines depending on the material to be compacted. Of course, normal bale press is for the conversion of lint into bales. But his company has bale presses for linters, coir – coconut bre, cotton stalk compacting machine as well as briquetting machine. Er. V.G.Arude, Sr. Scientist, CIRCOT, made presentation about self grooving rubber roller which can be a substitute for leather rollers

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

At the end, Dr. Nachane was felicitated by IFS for his contribution to research and development in textile physics with particular reference to cotton technology and also for his work as one of the founder members of IFS and its Honorary Secretary since inception till recent past.





he 4th Edition of Infashion was held on 16th & 17th January, 2014 at Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai by Image Group of India. The show’s main sponsor was Birla Cellulose. The show transferred their focus from only Fabric brand to Fashion and Retail. Regular fabric brands like True Linen, Siyaram, Nishant, Bhaskar Denim marked their presence in show. many fashion accessory brands participated. The show had 2 days Workshops of Fashion forecasting, by leading designers & fashion forecasting agency, many students, Fashion brand merchandisers and designers participated and attended. The two days Conference held on Organized Retail was useful for merchandisers, buyers, category product managers & participants are from Shoppers Stop, Westside, Pantaloon, Reliance Retail, many more. Speakers were from well known retain chains, who were successful in the Organized Retail. Birla Cellulose had arranged a mini shopping center, where manufactures of fabric & garments exhibited birla's viscose fibers made up products. The Class and Premium is all about Birla Cellulose. This is definitely the premium fibre that we all are looking for; not pure cotton , not pure polyester. Regenerated cellulosic, Cotton and Synthetic Mix. Viscose Fiber is future of Industry, but sad part is apart from Trade; there is no awareness of the fiber in the shop floor Retail level. More education needed on the same at sales level.

TEXPROCIL SEMINAR The Embassy of India and the Consulate General of India in Shanghai, in association with the China National Textiles and Apparel Council (CNTAC) and the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council of India (TEXPROCIL), held a half-day seminar on “Investing in India's Textile Sector” in Shanghai. Ambassador Ashok K Kantha delivered the keynote speech that highlighted the potential for expanding and diversifying textile cooperation between the two countries based on the sound foundation of bilateral textile trade turnover of more than US$ 8 billion in 2013. He referred to the potential catalytic role of textile sector in revitalizing bilateral trade to address the overall problem of India-China trade imbalance. Ambassador Kantha invited Chinese textile companies to consider investing in India which has several advantages to offer including a conducive policy framework, competitive and skilled labour, proximity to raw material, and a large and growing market. In this context, he emphasized investment in India's existing Textile Parks or setting up new industrial parks, as both India and China promote clustertype development of enterprises.


participants and referred to the vibrant cooperation in the textile sector and the opportunities to further strengthen it, including through investment by Chinese companies in India. Mr. Manickam Ramaswami, Chairperson of TEXPROCIL, amplified on the specific value proposition offered by India in his detailed presentation. He encouraged Chinese investors to take advantage of the projected growth of Indian textile industry to US$ 220 billion by 2020, which will generate an additional investment requirement in the region of US$ 68 billion across the textile supply chain. Close to 80 participants drawn from Chinese textile manufacturers and potential investors in and around Shanghai, Jiangsu and Zhejiang attended the event. The seminar coincided with the participation of 60 Indian companies in the Intertextile Exhibition in Shanghai from 3-5 March 2014, under the aegis of TEXPROCIL. The seminar was the main event in a day full of activities to mark India Day at the Inter-textile Exhibition. The seminar was followed by a Buyer-Seller meeting in the afternoon and a colourful cultural programme in the evening for which a dance troupe specially brought in from India performed Indian dance to the delight of more than 350 audience members.

Vice President of CNTAC Mr. Zhang Yankai addressed the


TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|



“During the past two decades,the installation of latesttechnology textile machinery has taken place in huge numbers. This has created a demand for quality textile spares & retrotting assemblies to help the user achieve their set targets of cost effective quality production.

Winding were covered. While the visit started with an opening remarks from the Mill Management giving a brief idea about the set-up of the mills, the visit concluded by an interaction session with the ITAMMA Member-Exhibitors, who introduced their product details to the Mill Management.

The "12th Product-cum-Catalogue Show” at Guntur, on 11 January 2014, had provided an ideal platform to the suppliers (machine & spare part manufacturers, dealers & traders) & the end-users (textile manufacturers/consultants/ academicians, etc.) to interact with each other and understand their requirements. ITAMMA up till now hasorganized many Product-cumCatalogue Shows at various textile centres, both in India & abroad, thus giving opportunity to it's members to interact with user industry. The Catalogue shows held so far, have received a tremendous response and proven to be an cost-effective tool in reaching out to the user in the shortest possible time. During this show, the visitors of the Textile industry of Guntur had get an opportunity to observe the quality products ofMachines & Accessories from the eld of Spinning, Weaving & Wet-Processing. He concluded saying that “ there will be more interaction between the user industry and the suppliers, in shortest time & at the door steps of the user industry” Exposure to the local mills A Mill Visit at the Edlapadu Plant of m/s NSL Textiles limited, Guntur Dt. - 522 233. was organized to all the MemberExhibitors of ITAMMA on 10 th January, 2014 in the Post Lunch Session; where about 32 members participated in this visit. Objective of this visit was to provide a platform to the participants to know the operations and functioning of the mills at Guntur. Also, the above unit is known to be one of the best units at Guntur having state-of-the-art machineries vertically integrated with a value chain covering all the operations from the extraction of cotton lint to garment manufacturing. During the visit, the Departments of Ginning, Spinning and




extile Investment Conclave organized by CITI on 11th February 2014 in Hotel Courtyard by Marriott, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India received an overwhelming response from participants in terms of quality of deliberations and attendance. Gujarat participated in the Conclave as a Partner State. Mr. Saurabh Patel, Honorable Minister of State for Industry, Government of Gujarat inaugurated the event. Textile experts from India and abroad endorsed the state of Gujarat as one of the most investment friendly destinations in the country. The conference discussed and showcased Gujarat as a destination for investments in the textile industry. The presentations made by various T&C industrialists, dignitaries and experts at the day long Conclave.

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|



Loknayak Jayprakash Narayan Shetkari Sahakari Soot Girni Ltd. Aims to Deliver Productivity & Quality for Superior Investment in Social Growth Product Range 

Supplier of % Cotton Yarn in counts Range No. 12s to 40s Combed / Carded, Weaving / Hosiery.

Specialized in Terry towel yarn, Hosiery Yarn, “S” Twist Yarn, Multiply Yarn, Low twist Yarn, Organic cotton Yarn.

All type of spinning Waste, direct export of comber Nail.

Achievements : 

Government of India recognized “STAR EXPORT HOUSE”.

Bronze Medal for “Third highest Export” in Yarn by “TEXPORCIL” for category below 50sNE. Top No. 1 Ranking in best “Techno-commercial” performance in 29th CPQ study Conducated by



Kamalnagar, Untawad – Hol, Tal. Shahada, Dist. – Nandurbar, Maharashtra – India, Pin Code : 425409 Phone : 02565 0229996, 0229997, Fax : 02565 229995 E_mail :


Textile Excellence announces quadrennial mega textile technology show – ITMACH India Following the runaway success of its regional show ITMACH – Bhiwandi, Textile Excellence has now announced its mega quadrennial event - ITMACH India – International Textile Machinery and Accessories Exhibition, India. This year, ITMACH India is scheduled from December 10-13, 2014, in Ahmedabad. The growing investment in technology by Indian textile and clothing industry, backed by supportive policies of India’s central and state governments necessitates a large scale event in a hub that is central to this industry. Ahmedabad, as the location for ITMACH India, offers all facilities including world class infrastructure, road and air connectivity to the domestic and international cities and more importantly, it is an emerging business hub with a conducive business environment, in addition to having a rich legacy of textile and clothing manufacturing and trade. “ITMACH India will be an event for the entire textile value chain from ber preparation to nished goods making machinery and accessories including technical textiles. All Chapters of textile


and clothing machinery, utility machinery, consumables and supporting service providers will meet the large Indian industry in a four day extravaganza. Further, the show will drawvisitors from neighboring countries like Bangladesh, Myanmar, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Pakistan, Iran, Saudi Arabia and other Middle Eastern countries,” informed the organisers. ITMACH India will also host a series of seminars and workshops concurrent to the show, at the venue, dissipating knowledge and opportunity for networking and policy framing based on the current needs of the industry. ITMACH India: Highlights 1. O v e r 5 0 , 0 0 0 v i s i t o r s e x p e c t e d c o m p r i s i n g o f industrialists, top decision makers and technocrats. 2. Nearly 500 exhibitors including prominent textile machinery manufacturers will participate. 3. Concurrent Seminars and Workshops will feature burning topics of textile trade and technology. 4. Participation by Government Departments that will facilitate policy formation and stimulate investment. While ITMACH India will be held once in four years, the regional series will be an annual event.



Hometex Exhibition was arranged on Huda ground, Panipat from 21st to 23rd March, 2014 by Essential Media. Hometex arranged at city of Home textile cluster, Panipat. Exhibitors are machinery of home textile, manufacturer of woollen yarns, fabrics, made ups, furnishing, many more. Exhibitors like friends engineering, P.K. International, Narinder international, Kamal sales are regular participants of the show, are very happy. Visitors are from across Panipat, Ludhiana, Delhi, many more surrounding clusters and they are manufacturer, traders, distributors, retailers, associations, media, government ofcials, many more. Show is great success though in small city cluster like Panipat.


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“Technical textiles is the next sunrise industry for India, say experts at Technotex 2014”

curriculum in schools and colleges through the intervention of the Indian Technical Textiles Association (ITTA).

Technotex 2014, the 3rd international conference & Exhibition on 20th to 22nd March, 2014 at Bombay Exhibition centre, Mumbai on technical textiles highlighted the vision of the industry towards taking this sector to new growth trajectory. Organised jointly by the Ministry of Textiles and FICCI, key ofcials of the Ministry of Textiles, as well as the states of Gujarat, Maharashtra and Karnataka were present and was attended by stakeholders from both India and overseas.

Dr D A Venkatesh, Commissioner for Textiles Development and Director of Handlooms & Textiles, Government of Karnataka, spoke on Karnataka as an ideal investment destination for technical textiles as it provided a congenial industrial climate, had availability of infrastructure for investment especially the land bank, an investor- friendly textile policy, skilled labour and a special package for investors of technical textiles. He says, “Through Technotex, the government has given us a platform to discuss and negotiate an investment opportunity in the eld of technical textiles, which is a prospering industry.”

Exhibitors are manufacture of technical textiles & non wovens, machinery manufacture, agents who supply to user industry of technical textiles. Exhibitors like Arvind, Alok, Welspun who had participated rst time in show, entering into technical textiles which is very remarkable as a conventional textile giant entering to unconventional textiles, that itself means that unconventional textile / technical textile have great scope in future. Visitors are from user industry like from Indian Air force, airlines, medical hospitals, infrastructure, construction associates, FMCG brands purchase managers, agriculture products, many more. During Conference, Shri. Shishir Jaipuria, Chairman – Textiles and Technical Textiles Committee, FICCI, opened the session outlining the huge potential of the technical textiles sector, which is currently US$ 13 billion in size and expected to grow at 20 per cent per annum in the next two years. With imports touching US$5 billion, he stressed on the urgency for India to develop indigenous products to boost domestic growth. Shri. Sujit Gulati, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, highlighted a few schemes, starting with the four centres of excellence that were raised to eight in the Technology Mission programme of 2010, along with encouraging entrepreneurs and start-ups to engage in this sector. To generate skilled manpower, the subject has also been made part of the

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

Shri. Kamal Dayani, Industries Commissioner, Government of Gujarat, gave an overview of the investment avenues in Gujarat for technical textiles. He said that while the potential of this industry and its application is huge, the consumption in comparison is miniscule, almost less than 2-3 per cent of the global pie. He said, “There is a need to relook at building some innovative products in this sector, which will drive up the demand and this required a collaborative effort from all the stakeholders.” Shri. Sunil Porwal, Principal Secretary – Textiles, Government of Maharashtra, spoke of technical textiles as a good business opportunity for investors. Especially for a state like Maharashtra, he said, that an investor can leverage the opportunity as the state has social, physical, nance infrastructure in place as well as the trade and the market along with a positive policy and transparent environment. Calling it the next sunrise sector for India, Smt. Zohra Chatterji, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India gave a detailed insight into the vision of the government for the technical textiles sector. The government was looking at a ve-fold increase in the fund outlay for the sector during the 12th ve year plan. A major initiative will also be to drive up the growth of the sector in the north-eastern states. A pilot scheme budgeted at Rs 500 crore has also been proposed for geo textiles. There are also plans to hike the FDI for this sector.

12 66


Colombia is one of the few strongly emerging economies in the Latin American region. It has good manufacturing sectors and the same is growing over 4% annually during the past few years. Colombia is the 3rd populous country in the region with about 46 million population. Colombia is the 4th largest economy GDP-wise with US$430 billion (2010) in the Latin America Region and it’s a free-market economy with major commercial and investment ties with the United States. Colombia is the most industrially diverse member of the Andean Community in Latin America. It mainly has ve major industrial centers--Bogota, Medellin, Cali, Barranquilla, and Bucaramanga-each located in a distinct geographical region. Colombia's industries include mining, hydrocarbons, textiles & clothing, leather products, etc. The United States is Colombia's largest trading partner representing about 37% of Colombia's exports and 28% of its imports. On the other hand, Colombia is the United States' fourth-largest trading partner in Latin America behind Mexico, Brazil, and Venezuela, and the largest agricultural export market in the hemisphere after the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) countries. Textile Scenario of Colombia : Colombia's clothing and textile industry is one of the largest and most established in Latin America, especially with the application of modern technology in production processes. Colombia has focused on greater innovation and specialisation, particularly through high-quality needlework to improve efciency and speed in production and product delivery processes and quality certications like ISO, BASC, WRAP. These factors have made the textile industry in Colombia, as one of the most promising sectors of the national economy. The country's textile & apparel sector employed more than 6 lakhs people directly and indirectly, and accounted for 10.3% of manufacturing GDP and 1.6% of national GDP. However, Colombia is a net importer of textiles, since it does not produce sufcient textile materials domestically. During 2010 Colombia imported around US$ 1.6 billion of textiles from other countries like the US, China, India, Mexico, Korea, Israel, Brazil, Italy, Germany, Indonesia, etc.

Some of Colombia's largest textile and clothing companies include (for fabric producer) : Fabricato, Tejicondor ; (for jean producers ) : CI El Globo and CI Jeans ; and (for knitwear manufacturers) : Crystal, Manufacturas Eliot, Modinco and Protela.

Colombia's clothing industry produces more than 250 million pieces of apparel a year.

Colombia has become one of the main fashion centers of Latin America, where the city of Medellin is Colombia's clothing center, which accounts for 70% of garment production and 38% of textile production.

Some well known brands manufactured in Colombia are Abercrombie & Fitch, Calvin Klein, Dockers, Gap, Levi Strauss, Polo Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilger, and among others.

Colombia is the third largest producer of intimate apparels, and it manufactures the world’s leading brand names in sportswear & jeans. It’s production plants and wash processes include the highest quality equipments, and its garments are known across the globe.

Export of Indian MMF Textiles to Colombia during 2011-12 was only US$ 68.70 million – accounting for 7.33% in total import of these textiles by Colombia.

Total import of Man-made bre textiles by Colombia in 2012 was US$ 937 million, of which US$ 438.19 million was for yarn ; US$ 283.71 million was for fabrics ; US$ 130.09 million was for made-ups, and US$ 85.17 million was for bre.

Product-share in the export basket of Indian MMF Textiles to Colombia include yarn 80% (US$ 55.10 million), fabrics 13% (US$ 8.83 million), bre 5% (US$ 3.38 million) and made-ups 2% (US$ 1.39 million).

Main countries Colombia imported MMF Textiles are from Mexico, USA, China, Republic of Korea, Brazil, Japan etc.

Colombia is the third largest Latin American exporter of oil to the US.

Trade between Colombia and India has been reecting an extraordinary upward trend during the last few years.

The main products that are exported from India to Colombia include Motorcycles in CKD form, Auto parts, Organic Chemicals, Pharmaceuticals, cotton yarns and textiles.

Colombia is considered the center for production, distribution, and exporting port for all the North, Central, and South America.

Colombia is the only South American country to have ports on both sides of the ocean (Atlantic and Pacic Ocean).

Has special agreements with the United States and other countries making it easier to trade with them.

Colombia is relatively close to the United States (mainly Miami, Fl) and is the midpoint between North and South America. This allows lower costs and shorter time in transporting goods.

Market observation in Colombia

 Colombia’s Clothing & Textile Industry is one of the largest and most experienced in Latin American Region, especially, with the application of technology in production processes. 

In Colombia, there are almost 500 textile mills and 10,000 apparel producers, which produce over 80,000 direct and indirect jobs. Colombia produces a lot of apparels -- in particular denim and knit-wears. The country grows short and medium stable cotton, but it does not produce enough cotton internally to meet the demand of its apparel industry, so it has a growing trend in importing textile products and cotton bres, which indicate investment opportunities in this industry. 67


TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

Colombia’s consistent sound economic policies and aggressive promotions of free trade agreements in the recent years have bolstered its ability to face external shocks effectively.

The range of manufacturing activities in the sector spans the entire supply chain, including cotton-growing, man-made bre production, textile processing and the manufacture of nished apparel.

Consumers in Colombia have greater purchasing power due to the improving economy and improved nancing options.

Import duties in Colombia are quoted ad valorem on the CIF (Cost, Insurance, Freight), value of shipments.

Colombia has signed / is negotiating FTAs with a number of countries including Canada, Chile, Mexico, Switzerland, UAE, Venezuela, South Korea, Turkey, Japan, China, Coastal Rica, Panama, and Israel.

In the recent years, Colombia has become one of the main destinations for India’s exports in Latin America.

Effective from March 1, 2013 to February 28, 2014, the Ad Valorem tariff is replaced with an Ad Valorem Tariff plus a specic per unit rate. For HS chapters 61, 62, 63, & HS 6406, the tariff will be 10% plus $ 5 per kg and for HS chapter 64 the tariff will be 10% plus $ 5 per pair.

The government of Colombia applies a 1.2% “special customs service tax” on all imports (with the exception of certain public sector imported items, imports from certain countries that extend reciprocal benets, and Plan Valleju imports).

Most imports are subject to a 16% value added tax (VAT) accessed on the CIF value the shipment + import duties. Exceptions for textile and apparel are silkworm coco ons, raw silk, wool and animal-hair, raw cotton and cotton linters, raw and processed ax and ramle, vegetable bres, jute etc.

Exim Bank of India has signed an agreement with Bancoldex of Colombia for extending a US$ 10 Million Line of Credit for exports from India ; however, the credit line of the Bank was never used due to high interest rates.

Colombia – India Chamber of Commerce was formed in Bogota in September 2008 by Indian and Colombian rms to take up the issues of Bilateral business interest with the support of the Embassy. They took a trade delegation to India in November 2012.



The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) organized exclusive Exhibitions of MMF Textiles at Bogota and Medellin in Colombia during February 2014 as part of the Council’s Export Promotion programme for the year 2013-14. The Exhibitions in Colombia were held for two days each in Bogota and Medellin in close association and support of the Embassy of India in Bogota, and the Honorary Consulate General of India in Medellin, Colombia. Separate professional Event Management Agencies were appointed for each of the Exhibitions with the assistance of the Embassy of India to ensure success of the Exhibitions. Twelve Member-companies of the Council participated in these Exhibitions.

trade with Colombia. The Exhibitions have also created conducive atmosphere for a new era of further co-operation between the traders and the industries of Man-made bre textiles in India and Colombia. Indian exports of synthetic & rayon textiles to Colombia, which amounts to Rs.295 crores annually at present, would see a remarkable growth in the coming years’ as a result of these exhibitions.

Exhibition in Bogotá & Medellin During the rst-half of the 2-day Exhibition in Bogota, select 42 Colombian Buyers met and discussed business with their Indian counterparts as per pre-arranged schedule of meetings. These specially arranged meetings were organized by a professional Event Management Agency (M/s.Camara Colombia India) on the basis of the product-proles of the participating Indian companies. Remaining second-half of both the days of the Exhibition in Bogota was open to the Colombian Buyers without prior appointments, and during that period 35 Buyers visited the Exhibition to negotiate business with the participating Indian companies. Conclusion The follow-up Indian Textile Exhibitions at Bogota & Medellin, have renewed the existing contacts between the traders of the two countries, and expanded the current scope for enhancing our

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Platinum Jubilee Celebration

G.N. Vaidya, Late Mr. T.G. Choudhari, Late Mr. D. Ramanna, Late Mr. R.P. Gupta and others those who are not now with us but felicitated with their next generation.

On 9th April 2014, The Textile Association (India) has celebrated its 75th Birth Anniversary - The Platinum Jubilee, at Emperor Hall, Hotel Kohinoor Park, Opp. Siddhi Vinayak Temple, Prabhadevi, Mumbai during which a befitting program was chalked out under the able leadership of the National President of TAI, Mr. D.R. Mehta.

Mr. R.D. Udeshi President, Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd. Informed that business situation in China is changing and China is also facing labour & power shortage, increase in the cost etc which will provide new opportunities to Indian Textile Industry.

The Textile Association (India) is the foremost leading and largest national body among other several Professionals of textile in India, striving for the growth of India’s largest single Textile Industry for over 7 decades. It is established before 75 years on 09th April, 1939 and as on today the Association has more than 23000 strong memberships with 26 affiliated Chapters, spread throughout the length and breadth of the country.

Dr. Chandan Chatterjee, Director, CED & GM, Indextb (A Govt. of Gujarat Organization), stressed on the need to involve the youth in the textile chain to ensure fresh ideas and fast implementation. Dr. Chandan Chatterjee also mentioned regarding the favorable Industrial Environment in Gujarat.

Platinum Jubilee Celebration began with invocation of Sri Saraswati Vandana followed by traditional lightening of lamp by guests and dignitaries. At the inaugural session, the Chief Guest was Shri R.K. Dalmia. the Guest of Honor were Shri R.D. Udeshi, and Dr. Chadan Chatterjee, Special Invitee was , recipient of Industrial Excellence Award, Shri S.K. Khandelia Shri D.R. Mehta, National President; Dr. Anil Gupta, National Vice President ; Shri K.D. Sanghvi, TAI Chairman and Shri V.D. Zope, TAI Hon. Gen. Secretary were present on the dais.

Shri Suresh Vaidya informed the journey for 75 years, struggling incidents of TAI members. At the end with vote of thanks by Mr. V.D. Zope, Hon. Gen. Secretary and National Anthem, Platinum Jubilee Celebration concluded with the hope for next Century celebration.

Nearly more than 350 members were gathered from all corners of India and overseas to participate in this Platinum Jubilee Celebration. Many old stalwarts, members, friends met after many years and reviewed old acquaintances. Mr. D.R. Mehta, National President, The Textile Association (India) give welcome address and mentioned that the Textile Association will continue with various objectives and will draw very large programme for years to come. He expressed, “glorious journey of last 75 years is indeed a landmark occasion for The Textile Association (India) It will be our sincere effort to celebrate this Platinum Jubilee by remembering all our Founding Fathers who were instrumental in establishing this Association”. Mr. J.B. Soma prepared presentation on Glimpses of Glorious 75 years of TAI with memorable photographs. Shri R.K. Dalmiaji, Senior President, Birla narrated challenges and new opportunities emerging in recent times. However, he felt that youngsters should be given more and more opportunities. Mr. S.K. Khandelia, Group President, K.K. Birla Group of Textiles with Industrial Excellence Award, briefed about the current scenario of industry and challenges to be faced in the global market. TAI also felicitated TAI RATNA Award to 70 senior and youth members who have dedicated their yeoman services rendered to the association for the growth and development. TAI also remembered their some of the founding fathers like Late Mr.


TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|


HOW HAVE MARKETS BEHAVED IN FY14: A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE Reference : CARE Rating Agency Table 3: Changes in Stock price indices (%)

With the nancial year coming to an end, the behaviour of three markets may be examined during the course of the year to see if there were any trends: currencies, bonds and stocks. As the foregoing analysis shows there have been distinct trends across all countries during this period in the foreign exchange and bond markets indicating to an extent the power of globalization as the interdependence between economies has increased through these links. The tapering impact of the Federal Reserve as well as movement in commodity prices on account of a recovery witnessed in some of the developed countries as also an aggressive QE programme in Japan had their role to play in affecting these markets.  Exchange rates COUNTRY Argen na Turkey Indonesia Brazil Russia S. Africa India Phillipines Thailand Japan Malaysia Mexico Singapore Hongkong China S.Korea Euro Switzerland UK

% 55.9 18.3 17.5 17.3 17.2 16.9 12 10 9.7 8 5.5 5.5 1.6 0 -0.7 -2.9 -6.3 -7 -9.3

The table below gives the extent of movement of currencies during the year. Changes have been reckoned for the average currency in March 2014 over March 2013

Wo r l d o v e r, currencies were affected Source : Pacic Exchange rate service quite sharply by PS: + denotes depreciation the US tapering and (-) appreciation announcement , which affected the developing economies more signicantly. The fear of the tapering programme did cause funds to move out of the emerging markets which in turn affected the currencies causing them to weaken. While conditions have improved since the tapering programme did commence, there has been some regaining of ground, though they continue to remain weak relative to the start of the year. The fall in the rupee by 12% is still better than what was witnessed in other countries (Argentina, Turkey, Indonesia, Brazil, Russia & South Africa) and this has been mainly due to the afrmative steps taken by the government to curb import of gold as well as bring in capital

receipts through NRI deposits when the RBI offered swap facility for FCNR (B) deposits. Interestingly, the dollar has weakened against the euro which gained by 6.3%, therefore the traditional link of a weak dollar with strong local currency as severed as currency movements were driven more by movement of COUNTRY bps investment funds. Table 2: Change in 10-years bond yields (bps)

Brazil Turkey Indonesia S. Africa Russia Mexico Hongkong China Philippines Singapore UK USA India S. Korea Malaysia Switzerland Germany Thailand France Japan

330 290 234 221 180 128 122 110 102 101 96 90 82 75 66 32 28 12 9 6

 Bonds

Movement in bond yields is an indicator of how interest rates have behaved during the year. The yield on the 10-year bond has been considered here. The end points of March have been taken for both 2013 and 2014 for this purpose. Table 2 reveals that yields have moved up in all countries considered here, Source: Trading and Italy (not economics and Economist shown here) was the only one to witness a decline in yields. Brazil, Turkey, Indonesia and South Africa had witnessed the highest increase in bond yields of over 200 bps in FY14. Even USA and UK witnessed an increase in bond yields. While central banks in the developed countries did tend to continue with quantitative easing, interest rates tended to increase. Partly the explanation lies in the fact that ination in emerging markets has forced the central banks to increase interest rates, while the outow of funds on account of the possibility of tapering by the Fed gave further reason to keep interest rates at a high level. The increase in interest rates in India appear to be modest compared with that in countries such as Brazil, Turkey, Indonesia, Russia etc. where the currency depreciation has also been high. Stock markets Movement in stock market indices did not show a singular tendency as 9 out of the 22 countries considered here witnessed a double digit growth rate. But half of them witnessed a fall between March-end 2013

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|


COUNTRY Argen na Italy S. Africa Germany India Japan France USA Malaysia Switzerland UK Hongkong S.Korea Indonesia Singpore Philippines Mexico China Brazil Thailand Russia Turkey

% Change 88.6 41.4 26 23.5 19.9 19.6 19.2 12.8 10 8.4 3.6 -0.6 -1 -3.7 -4 -6 -8.2 -8.7 -10.5 -10.6 Source: -16 and Economist -24.6

and March-end 2014. Stock indices have been guided largely by domestic considerations and while the ow of foreign funds into equities did have a positive impact, they were overwhelmed by the domestic factors. Argentina and South Africa among the emerging markets and Italy and Germany among the developed countries witnessed higher increases in their stock indices relative to India. Japan and France were also close to India in terms of gains made. A fall in stock indices was more prevalent among developing countries.Concluding remarks For FY14, it does appear that while emerging market currencies in general tended to depreciate against the dollar and bond yields went up almost across the board, there was no clear picture for stock indices. However, emerging market stock prices tended to decline more than those of developed countries. But importantly, the world markets do appear to be progressively getting integrated and are inuenced by noises emanating in other geographies as the cross border ow of funds do have a very important role to play in driving not just currencies but also interest rates and stock markets.



India, Kantha said India has several advantages to offer, including a conducive policy framework, competitive and skilled labour, proximity to raw material, and a large and growing market. He emphasized investment in India's existing Textile Parks or setting up new industrial parks, as both India and China promote clustertype development of enterprises.

Overall export declines Overall exports in February 2014 fell 3.67 per cent year on year valued at US$25.69 billion (Rs 159,858 crore) than the level of US$26.67 billion (Rs. 143407.85 crore) in February 2013. Meanwhile, imports during February 2014 were at US$33.82 billion (Rs 210,451 crore) down 17.09 per cent from last year.

Spun Yarn Export inches up

Oil imports fell 3.1 per cent in February 2014 valued at US$13.70 billion while cumulative imports during April-February 2013-14 were at US$151.84 billion, 0.8 per cent higher than in the corresponding period of 2012-13. The trade decit for AprilFebruary, 2013-14 was at US$128.086 billion which was lower than the decit of US$179.93 billion during April-February 2012-13.

Spun yarn exports could not maintain the strength seen in January. In February, exports grew just 3.7 per cent as against 21 per cent clocked in January. About 117 million kg of spun yarns were exported worth US$390 million or Rs 2,425 crore. In terms of growth, volumes were up 7.4 per cent while US$ value increased 3.8 per cent implying a fall in unit price realization, as the Rupee depreciated 16 per cent against the US$ in the comparable months. Overall unit price realization averaged US$3.35 /kg was, down US cents 12 than the realization a year ago but down US cent 1 from previous month.

Textile export target may be missed Textiles export target of US$43 billion is likely to fall short this nancial year by about US$1 billion stated textiles minister K S Rao told at an event late February. Textile exports stood at US$34 billion in 2012-13 and the government has set an ambitious target of US$60 billion for 2014-15.

Table 1.1. Spun Yarn Exports - By Fibre Type '000 Kgs Mln US$ Unit realisa on ($/kg) Feb-13 Feb-14 Feb-13 Feb-14 Feb-13 Feb-14 Natural Fibre Yarn 94,948 98,261 332.30 336.09 3.50 3.42 Co on yarn 94,948 98,261 332.30 336.09 3.50 3.42 Wool yarn Manmade Fibre Yarn 5,532 7,660 17.37 21.93 3.14 2.86 Polyester yarn 1,494 3,248 4.23 8.64 2.83 2.66 Viscose yarn 2,463 1,975 8.56 6.22 3.48 3.15 Acrylic yarn 566 777 2.47 3.61 4.36 4.64 MMF Unspecified 1,009 1,660 2.10 3.47 2.09 2.09 Blended Yarn 8,549 11,210 28.76 34.31 3.36 3.06 Poly/co on 4,715 5,388 14.87 16.01 3.15 2.97 Poly/viscose 2,932 4,799 9.85 13.88 3.36 2.89 Co on/viscose 378 412 1.76 1.67 4.64 4.07 Acrylic/co on 203 356 0.80 1.35 3.92 3.78 Poly/wool 38 71 0.42 0.69 11.31 9.65 Poly/acrylic 226 118 0.76 0.35 3.34 2.97 Other blended 57 67 0.31 0.36 5.55 5.45 yarns Grand Total 109,029 117,131 378 392 3.47 3.35

To encourage exports including export of processed clothes, the government provides incentives under the Foreign Trade Policy, like Interest subvention, Market Access Initiative (MAI), Market Development Assistance (MDA) Schemes and Focus Market & Focus Product Schemes. To boost textile and garment exports, the Ministry of Textiles has adopted four pronged strategy that includes larger textiles trade shows, skill development initiatives, compliance programmes and duty drawback schemes. Further, to ensure conducive policy environment and encourage investment, the government has taken various steps and launched the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS). In addition, the government has made a provision of Rs 5 billion in the 12th Five Year Plan (2012-17) for introducing a scheme for Integrated Processing Development. Chinese investment in textile sector invited Textile companies in China are invited to invest in India. Speaking at a seminar in Shanghai on “Investing in India's Textile Sector”, Ashok K Kantha, Indian Ambassador to China stated that Chinese textile companies should consider investing in India, as the country offers several advantages. The seminar was organized by the Embassy of India and the Consulate General of India in Shanghai, in association with the China National Textiles and Apparel Council (CNTAC) and the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council of India (TEXPROCIL). Ambassador Kantha, in his keynote speech highlighted the potential for expanding and diversifying textile cooperation between the two countries based on the sound foundation of bilateral textile trade turnover of more than US$8 billion in 2013. While inviting Chinese textile companies to consider investing in


TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|




TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|


COUNT 60X60 60X60 60X60 60X60 40 X40 40 X40 40 X40 40 X40 40 X40 50 X50 7X7 10X10 16X8 16X8 16X8 16X8 20X10 20X10 20X2 20X2 20X2 20X10 20X10 20X20 20X20 20X20 20X16 20X20 30X10 30X30 30X30 30X2 40X40 40X40 40X40 40X40 60X60 60X60 60X60 80X80 80X80 80X80 80X80 80X80 80X80 80X80 80X80 80X80 80X2

CONST 92 X88 144X108 144 X120 144 X128 132 X64 144 X72 132 X100 144 X100 120 X76 132/80 68X38 68X38 84X28 84X28 84X28 84X28 114X56 40X36 40X36 40X36 40X36 40X36 40X36 100X50 108X56 38X38 108X56 108X56 144X48 124X94 124X64 80X40 110X90 96X96 68X68 100X96 92X64 165X88 164X104 164X104 92X88 80X64 8X80 120X90 132X110 196X84 148X142 148X100 80X100

WIDTH 44''/58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58'' 58''

GRAY FABRIC QUALITIES WIDTH IN CMS 160 169 165 160 173 312 160 157 127 295 160 160 155 160 160 160 160 122 160 160 160 160 305 160 120 156 160 160 160 160 120 160 310 160 160 160 160 160 160 160 160 160 160 160 160 160 160 160






10OE 10OE 10OE 10OE 10+6 12.0OE 14PC 16 OEP 16OE 16OE 16 OEP 16OE 16 OEP 16OE 20 OE 20 OE 20 OE 20 OE 20 OE 20OE 20K 23K 2/20SLUM 20PC 23K 20 OE 20PC 30CB 30CB 30CB 30CB 30K 32K 30CB 2/40Ellite 40CMP 2/40TFO 40CB 7OE 7OE 7OE 30CB 30CB 30CB 30CB 30CB 40CMP 40CMP

6OE 10SPENDEX 10OE 10OE 360D 12OE 14PC 8OE 8OE 8OE 12OE 12OE 12OE 12OE 20 OE 10OE 10OE 10OE 300D 300D 100E 2/47P 100ESLUM 20PC 2/47P 16OE 20PC 20OE 100E 300DMilang 30K 30K 30K 105D 10OE 20 OE 10OE 7OE 7OE 10SPENDEX 150D 30K 10 OE 150D 150D 150D 40CB 40CMP

76 68 76 72 64 64 82 84 84 84 108 108 108 96 108 109 109 112 126 114 108 60 43 100 60 128 108 130 132 128 120 68 68 124 124 144 116 68 68 68 124 124 140 124 124 124 132 142

SPECIFICATION 45PCX45PC/112X72 50PCX45PC/100X82 20oeX16KARDED/59X59 20cottX300D/112X56 30CottX150D/124X64 30CottX150D/124X64 30cardedX30carded/124X60 30cardedX30carded/124x64 30cottX30karded/124X68 30kardedX30karded/68X64 30kardedX30karded/68X66 30combX20Oe/144X78 30combX20Oe/144X86 40cardedX40carded/84X70 40CottX40Cott/124 x 94 40CottX40Cott/124 x 96 40CottX40Cott/124x98 40cottXcarded/132x70 40Cott x 40Cott+150D / 124 x 56 40cott x 60cott+80D / 124 x 100 40cott x 60cott+80D / 124 x 100(2*2pick) 40cott x 30karded+150D / 92 x 64 40cott x 30karded+150D / 92 x 60 40comb x 30slub+150D / 92 x 66 40 cott X 16OE / 164 X 78 40 cott X 16OE / 164 X 80 40 cott X 16OE / 164 X 80 40 cott X 16OE / 164 X 80 40cott x 30cott / 185 x 90 40comp x 20OE+20lycra / 144 x 70 50cott x 50cott / 142 x 114 60cott x 60cott / 92 x 88 60cott x 60cott / 92 x 104 60Cott x 60Cott / 132 x 104 60Cott x 60Cott / 132 x 108 60Cott x 80D / 132 x 90 60Cott x 60cott+80D / 132 x 96 80cott x 80cott / 92 x 80 80cott x 80cott / 92 x 88

27 40 42 38 42 33 50 28 28 28 56 56 56 48 56 56 56 56 56 54 60 56 34 50 56 58 56 84 60 68 58 68 68 64 56 68 56 38 38 34 64 64 66 50 50 70 72 100

Quality Name


Royal Merino (PV Matty) Royal Regency (PV Matty) Trovin PV Twill Polyester Twill Polyester Tusser

2/18 PV*2/18 PV 2/18 PV*2/18 PV 2/30*15; 2/30*2/30 2/30 PV*Tex 2/30 Polyester*Tex 2/30 Polyester*Tex

Weight (gm/m) 380 appx 340 appx 270/310 appx 350 appx 340 appx 280/250 appx



63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63” 63”


Price (Rs)

58” 58” 56”/58” 58” 58” 56”/58”

102 92 78.50/91 88 80 68/67


1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 4/1 4/1 dobby dobby 4/1 4/1 4/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

Count 2/40X150Dmp 16X12 32X20 20cpX16cp 16X10 2/30X2/20 32X32 16X12 2/40X2/40 2/40x2/40 2/40X20 2/40X2/20 2/40X2/40 2/40X20 2/30X16 20X16 20X20 20X20 20X20 20X16 20X20 20X16 20X20 20X12 2/20X10 16X16 16X12

Construction 136X74 115X54 142X82 139x62 115X56 121X62 158X86 115X58 121X62 104X74 105X74 104X50 123X62 121X56 104X50 115X58 104X52 104X68 115X58 115X8 108X54 139X58 106X60 94X46 76X42 104X56 105X50

Finish Normal Peach Peach Normal Peach Normal Peach Peach Tussore Tussore Normal Peach Peach Normal Normal Peach Normal Normal Normal Normal Peach Normal Peach Normal Normal Peach Normal

Gsm 302 219 270 317 363 200 300 231 226 225 256 230 227 254 244 200 211 227 242 202 262 200 212 273 246 275

Rate dyed 130.00 143.00 133.00 148.00 139.00 190.00 132.00 147.00 162.00 160.00 147.00 159.00 146.00 135.00 141.00 126.00 112.00 123.00 120.00 117.00 116.00 135.00 119.00 113.00 145.00 129.00 127.00

Qualities List QUALITY






10X06/76X28 - 63 16x08/84x28-47 16x08/84x28-47 16X12 /84X26 - 47 16X12 /84X26 -63 16X12 / 96X48 - 63 16X12 / 108X56 – 63 16X16/60X56 - 63 2/20X10/40X36-48 2/20X10/40X36-63 20X20/60X60-120 20X20/60X60-50 20X20/60X60-50 20X20/60X60-67 20X20/60X60-72 20X20/60X60-78 20X16/108X56-63 20X20/108X56-63 30X30/68X64-63 30X30/68X64-63 40X80D/100X92-61 40X80D/100X92 - 63 50X50/133X72-63

515 270 370 235 310 420 480 305 240 315 455 200 250 260 280 300 360 340 180 265 165 215 170






Quality 20X14 lycra 3/1 Twill 30X20 lycra 3/1 Twill 32X20 lycra / satin 40X16 lycra 3/1 Twill 40X30 lycra / satin 60X20 lycra / satin 60X40 lycra / satin

Price 165.00 164.00 161.00 160.00 158.00 182.00 161.00

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|

Canvas Quality

QUALITY 2/10X2/ 10 - 44X32

WIDTH 60''

2/7X2/7 - 42X26


3/10X3/ 10 - 42X26


3/8X3/ 8 - 36X26


3/7X3/7 - 36X26



Reference Mr. Kirti Shah, Fabric Supplier, Textile World, Mumbai


Demand by Sector of Manufacturing(2011)

FIBRE WISE DEMAND OF TEXTILE IN 2012 Fibre wise demand (2011-2012 ) MANMADE FIBRE


2011 2012

2011 2012

200 221




2011 2012

80 92


Millmade / Power loom

12589 13289

Knitted / Hosiery PURE SILK


Percentage Share 4%


Percentage Share (2012)



woollen 0.29%

Pure silk 0.70%


2011 2012


200 221


Demand by Sector of Manufacturing(2012)

Fibre is the basic raw material FIBRES CATEGORIES u s e d f o r m a n u f a c t u r i n g different textile items. The OF TEXTILES survey reveals that out of the COTTON total aggregate consumption of PURE SILK 31,636 million meters ( per WOOLEN capita 25.93 meters) of textiles MAN -MADE & in year 2012, man made and BLENDED / MIXED blended/ mixed textiles together have the largest share of 57 % followed by cotton textiles 42%, pure silk textiles 0.70 % & woollen textiles 0.29%. Classication of Fibre

Percentage Share 3.72%


Millmade / Power loom Knitted / Hosiery



AGGREGATE CONSUMPTION FROM THE SECTORS In actual figures, the consumption of textile from mill made/power loom sector was 26,687 million meters in 2012 and 25150 million meters in 2011. likewise from knitted/Hosiery sector the consumption was 3772 million meters in 2012 as compared to 1195 million meters in 2011. The consumption from Handloom Sector was 1177 million meters in 2012 as compared to 1195 meters in 2011. At all India level the aggregate consumption of pure silk textiles manufactured in this sector is 27 million meters in 2012 as compared to 26 million meters in 2011. The aggregate consumption of woolen textiles manufactured in this sector is 32 million meters in 2011 & 2012.

· the aggregate consumption of cotton fibre was 13,289 million meters in 2012 showing a positive growth over the previous year 2011. · the aggregate consumption of manmade fibre was 18034 million meters in as against 17012 million meters in 2011. · Similarly the consumption of pure silk & woollen fibre was 221 million meters & 92 million meters respectively in 2012 as compared to 200 million meters & 80 million meters respectively in 2011. DEMAND OF TEXTILE SECTOR BY MANUFACTURING

Demand by Sector of Manufacturing(2012)

The result of the survey indicated that in 2011 in the total textile consumption mill made or power loom sector alone has contributed 84%, while knitted / hosiery and handloom sectors have contributed 11.83 % & 4 % of the total consumption.

Millmade / Ppwerloom 2011=25150 mn meters 2012=26687 mn meters

The result of the survey indicated that in 2012 in the total textile consumption mill made or powerloom sector alone had contributed 11.92% & 3.72 % of the total consumption respectively

Knitted / Hosiery 2011= 3536 mn meters 2012=3772 mn meters

Handloom 2011= 1195 mn meters 2012= 1177 mn meters


TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | April -June 2014|



Date: 30th May to 1st June, 2014 Venue: Trade Centre, KTPO, Whiteeld, Bangalore, India Organizer name : S.S. TEXTILE MEDIA PVT. LTD. Contact details:, Exhibitor's prole: Manufacture of Fabrics, accessories, Home textiles

Date: 18th -21st September, 2014 Venue: The International Show, Goa Organizer name : Screen Print India Media Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Manufacture Of Screen, Digital, Textile printing



Date: 5th- 7th June, 2014 Venue: Mahatma Mandir, Gandhi nagar, Gujarat Organizer name : GUJNON & RADEECAL Communication Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Manufacture of Non woven , Technical textile

Date: 24th – 26th September, 2014 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Center, Shanghai, china Organizer name : Messe Frankfurt Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Manufacture Of Technical Textiles


Techtextil India Symposium

Date: 19th to 21st June, 2014 Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Organizer name : Messe Frankfurt Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Manufacture of Home Textiles

Date: 16th -17th Oct, 2014 Venue: Mumbai Organizer name: Messe Frankfurt Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Conference

HONGKONG FASHION WEEK Date: 7th 10th July, 2014 Venue: HKCEC, Hongkong Organizer name : HKTDC Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Manufacture of Garment & Fashion brands

International Conference on Technical Textiles and Nonwovens Date: 6- 8 November, 2014 Venue: IIT, Delhi Organizer name: Orange Zero Ltd. Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Conference on Technical Textiles



Date: 5th – 7th August, 2014 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai Organizer name: HGH INDIA Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Manufacturer of Home Textile

Date: 10th – 13th December, 2014 Venue: Ahmedabad Organizer name : ITMACH INDIA Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Manufacture of Textile Machinery


Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015- Focus Asia

Date: 9th to 11th Sep, 2014 Venue: India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur Organizer name : S.S. TEXTILE MEDIA PVT. LTD. Contact details: , Exhibitor's prole: Manufacture of Fabrics, accessories, Home textiles

Date: 20th – 22nd Jan 2014 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai Organizer name : ITME Society Contact details: Exhibitor's prole: Manufacture of Textile Machinery

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Volume 3 | Issue 1

April - June 2014 | Volume 3 | Issue 1 | Pages 80 3 1 / 43707 ISSN NO.: 2278-8972 | RNI NO.: MAHENG / 2012


²ⁿ International Exhibition & Conference

Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India


JUNE 5-6-7 2014

Anniversary Issue

Value addition, Driving force for textile industry

April- June 2014 ( Volume 3, Issue 1)  
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