November 2015 | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Pages 48
Sustainable Technology Need of an hour
³ Cluster based Market Report : Panipat, Malegaon, Surat, Ichalkranaji ³ Processing ﬂax co on blended yarn on modern rotor spinning machines ³ Electro spinning – A method of producing ultraﬁne ﬁbres
Narains Synthetics Pvt. Ltd.
Sustainable technology & Integrated Approach is need of an hour…
acro level, Textile & technology in India means TUFS( Technology Upgraded Fund Scheme), Government support, subsidy, etc. Former Textile commissioner is not very comfortable of subsidy mindset of Indian textile community. Textile ministry till now not given TUFS benefits to user industry, not announcing new textile policy, changing officials within short period etc. This shows that textile is not the priority sector of Indian government. When will we awake for same??? Industry level, Indian textile machinery segment comprises of 85% of Agent/ Distributors of international machinery manufacturer from Germany, EU regions, Chinese, Japanese ,many more. Balance 15 % make machinery of spinning, processing, weaving. But rarely making commercial garmenting machinery.Spare parts, accessories are majorly manufactured in India. User Industry wanted updated, latest technology machine made by Indian company or international company, they really do not care about it. They want best result of products. So if Indian manufacturer tap the specific niche need of the user industry with creative & innovative solution in design, processing, printing, finishing; lot of development in area. ITMA 2015 showcasing world textile technology in world’s most innovative fashion city Milano,Italy. New technology, fibers, make a world to next level after this showcase of most innovative technology. We are hoping for the best that Indian machinery manufacturer will learn and try to develop more superior technology in coming years. Why international company advance in technology as compare to India? Research & Innovation Center is the only key to success. India should have common innovation enter for the country, as indian entrepreneur can’t afford to have their own R & D. The problem in textile industry is everyone thinking their own segment, like Ginning, spinning, weaving, garmenting not only segment, own cluster have their own demand like Surat, Coimbatore etc. India which a diverse, adversity in all level, no integrated approach of the Textile Value Chain, International player will rule the country by our economy. Indian people purchasing power is more than the Indian Government Purchasing power. We kindly request you to please integrate industry, Association, industry; Government will play a major role on same. Wish you all happy Diwali and prosperous New Year..!!! Wish u happy visit & business from ITMA 2015.
Ms. Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
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CONTENT COVER STORY 11
November 2015 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Editorial Advisor Shri V.Y. Tamhane Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale
Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION
Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA
Sustainable technology & Integrated Approach is need of an hour… Now perceived differently for business- India by Mrs. Seema Srivastava Sustainable technology in textile machinery by Mr. Avinash Mayekar Rules for setting up weaving project in India by Mr. Sharad Tandon
Association News 17 23 24
SIMA ITMF Corporate News : SS & FEMINA
Processing flax cotton blended yarn on modern rotor spinning machines by RSWM Electro spinning – A method of producing ultrafine fibres by Vashinav Institute professors
Show Report 22 33
POST SHOW : Techtextil 2015 PRE SHOW : ITMACH 2015
IMTA 2015 PRODUCT LAUNCH 34 37
MARKET REPORT 34 35 36 38
Panipat cluster Malegaon Surat & Ichalkaranji Show Calendar
ADVERTISER INDEX Back Cover : Raymond
Page 27 : udyog
Back Inside : Liva from Birla Cel.
Page 28 : YFA
Front Inside : INDIA ITME 2016
Page 29 : Shree ram Textiles
Page 3: Narain Synthetics
Page 30 : Ruby Industries
Page 5 : Tuff Plast
Page 39 : Aesa Engineering
Page 7 : SGS Innovation
Page 40 : Sanjay Plastic
Page 8 : ITMACH
Page 41 : Om Corporation
Page 9 : Rabatex
Page 42 : UTMA textiles & Patco Exports & TVC
Page 10 : XSTOK Page 19 : ATE Page 20 : Dyanmic Looms Page 21: BSL suiting
Page 43 : Kaavyatech Page 44 : Dalal Engineering Page 45 : RSWM
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN |MARCH- 2015
17 18 19 December, 2015
INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MACHINERY & ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION
Discover Markets, Find New Customers@ITMACH Come to ITMACH Bhiwandi Show Meet Machinery Manufacturers, Industry, Investors and Customers. Discuss business and network. Discover trends in technology, investment and market opportunities.
SPACE BOOKING Arvind Semlani: Cell: +91 9833977743 Email: email@example.com
CHINA Mr. Cong Zheng China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) Tel: +86 10 85229334 | 58221177-62 | Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
K S Farid: Cell: +91 9869185102 Email: email@example.com
Supporting Partners: Media Partners:
Ms. Emily Yao RITEX international Exhibition (Beijing) Co., Ltd. Mobile: +86-13699259487 | 18911032867 QQ: 2245873206 | Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
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COVER STORY Now Perceived Differently for Business- India Mrs.Seema Srivastava, Executive Director India ITME Society
t is a land of opportunities and only a matter of time when every business would be influenced by India’s consumption pattern and market demand. Today is the right time, perfect conditions and will pay handsomely to enter the Indian market now to optimize cost benefits and policy benefits. Growing Millionaires- India today is home to 11th largest population of millionaires with 1.98 lakh high net work individuals in the country. India moved up to third place for HNIs wealth across Asia-, displacing Australia. It is expected that the continued growth in India and China will result in holding of 10% of global pacific HNI wealth by 2017. Leading business growth environment India is ranked 34th among 60 leading economies in terms of ‘business growth environment’. In the Grant Thornton Global Dynamism Index, which ranks business growth environments of 60 leading economies, India was ranked at the 34th place, registering a gain of 14 places since the last version of the index, largely driven by a strong and productive workforce. India is the seventh largest country by area, the second most populous country with over 1.2 billion people and the most populous democracy in the world with a history reaching back 5 millennia. The Indian economy is the world’s seventh largest by nominal GDP and third largest by purchasing power parity (PPP) and one of the fastest growing major economies. India emerged the most attractive investment destination in the world for the next three years in a global survey of top decision-makers in multinational corporations. Perception about India’s macroeconomic stability is up to 76 per cent in 2015 in comparison to 70 per cent in the 2014 survey, political and social stability is up from 59 per cent in 2014 to 74 per cent in 2015. About 62 per cent said they were looking at manufacturing, both to serve the Indian and global markets from India. Investors rated India’s domestic market and availability of labour among the most attractive features for doing business. It is obvious that India has many opportunities to offer, whether it be sourcing, manpower, education, life style which many multinationals has already explored successfully. Let us have a quick glance at how few multinationals experienced India as business destination. •Business tie-up Sephora, offering 200 brands including Calvin Klein, D&G and Ralph Lauren owned by French luxury conglomerate Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) has tied up with Indian Company Arvind and is looking at tapping Indian market. •Preferred location for overseas expansion M & S bets big on India. Marks & Spencer has opened 50 stores
which is the highest number of stores outside its home market U.K in India. Among the 60 global markets which the company operates, India remains priority location for its overseas expansion. • Fastest Growing Market India is the fastest growing top market for Dell Computers. India is the third biggest market for Dell after US and China. In India business is growing four times faster than the overall for market. Dell Company, which recorded highest market share in servers workstations and note books in the last quarter in Indian market. • Increased sourcing from India Since the launch of ‘Make in India’ initiative Boeing had doubled its sourcing in less than 12 months and is looking to increase its engagement with India. • High score on Technical education and skill. India is set to produce world’s largest no. of Engineers having 80% of Indian youth (the highest in the world) choosing engineering studies and has the lowest gender gap between men and women with 79% women choosing engineering in India against 43% globally. In comparison, 62% of women in China, 55% in Brazil, 35% in the US and 33% in Germany have shown interest in engineering. In India software services industry alone re recruits about 300,000 every year. This boom is partly due to business wanting to make use of the comparatively cheap production and talent costs. Every aspect of economic and social growth indicates India emerging as a preferred destination. With its growing income, large population, developing industry sectors, there is only one way to go-upwards!. India scores high on economic situation and growth (overall ranking 2) and availability of labour and human capital (15). . ‘Make in India’ is an initiative of the Government of India to encourage multinationals, as well as domestic companies to manufacture their products in India. It is expected that India would emerge after the initiation of the program in 2015 as the top destination globally for FDI surpassing other preferred investment destinations. The sectors included in the focus of this campaigns are textiles, chemicals, design manufacturing, Automobiles, IT., Pharmaceuticals, tourism, ports, renewable energy and electronics between September 2004 & August 2005.
Vibrant & colorful Textile Sector- An opportunity for machinery manufacturers. India is one of the world’s largest producers of textiles and garments. India accounts for 14 percent of the world’s production of textile fibres and yarns, largest producer of jute, second largest producer of silk and cotton, and third largest in cellulosic fibre, making it a sourcing hub. India has the highest loom capacity (including handlooms) with 63 percent of the world’s market
share. The most significant change in the Indian textile industry has been the advent of manmade fibres (MMF). India has successfully placed its innovative range of MMF textiles in almost all the countries across the globe. The Indian textiles industry accounts for about 24% of the world’s spindle capacity and eight percent of global rotor capacity. Abundant availability of raw materials such as cotton, wool, silk and jute as well as skilled workforce have made the country a sourcing hub.
by the strong domestic consumption as well as export demand indicating right opportunity and right time for machinery manufacturers to enter India. The textile machinery shipment to India since 2005 is an indicator. The shipment of spinning machinery has grown 6% from 2005 to 2013. The shipment of water jet looms and rapier/projection looms witnessed an outstanding growth of 32% CAGR and 11% CAGR respectively from 2005 to 2013.
India is one of the few countries in the world which has production at each level of textile manufacturing, namely fibre, spinning, weaving, knitting, processing and garmenting.
Indian textile industry has priority with current Government and ‘Make in India’ campaign. The vision of Hon. Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi is to grow India’s textile industry by 3 times to U.S 300 Bn in 2020 .
Textiles industry plays a major role in the Indian economy, employing 45 million people and accounts for 12% share of the country’s total exports basket. India is major exporting country as far as textile sector is concerned and not dependent on import. Majority of import takes place for re-export or special requirement. The demand of textile and apparel production are expected to grow manifold in the coming years given by increasing demand from domestic market as well as export to neighboring countries in India. With increasing sale of textile and apparel manufactured in India, the organized mill sector is growing fast. A large part of additional demand for machinery will be driven by the investment by organized/large mills. This will further drive the demand for modern high technology machines and offer an attractive market for leading textile machinery manufacturers globally. In value terms, textile and apparel manufacturers would need to invest US$ 75BN in textile machinery in India by 2020, out of which US$ 50 Bn will be required for new machinery to cater to the additional market demand and US$ 25 BN will be required for replacing the existing machinery. Yarn manufacturing (spun and filament), weaving and processing machinery will attract 86% of the overall investments in value terms, with almost equal contribution from each. The Indian textile industry is set for strong growth buoyed
Manufacturing competency, skilled manpower availability, Availability of raw materials, Political stability, strong economic indicators, Export potential to Indian sub-continent and other countries places India as the ‘destination’ for textile business and textile machinery manufactures. Gateway to vast market opportunity - India ITME 2016. Next important step is identifying right platform to explore net work, access new customers and new opportunities. The right platform for any textile business men, manufacturing companies, investors, consultants, agents/dealers, accessory manufacturers and other service providers to access ‘India textile and Textile Engineering Sector business’ is India ITME 2016. This mega event is India’s most prestigious and premium event for Textile and Textile Engineering Industry. Organised by India ITME Society, an apex industry body, ITME 2016 will be an unparallel opportunity to access under single platform opportunities for manufacturing, sourcing, joint venture, investments, technology collaboration, network to develop new customer base. India ITME 2016 is your vehicle to future opportunities in India. Be sure to visit – Block your diary for India - 3rd – 8th December 2016.
AREA AND PRODUCTION ESTIMATED BY THE COTTON ADVISORY BOARD ON 03.11.2015 COTTON SEASON 2014-15 AND 2015-16 Area: in Lakh Hectares, Production: in Lakh bales of 170 kg, Yield: Kg per hectare State Punjab
Total North Zone
Total Central Zone Andhra Pradesh
Total South Zone
COVER STORY Sustainable Technologies in Textile Machinery Shri Avinash Mayekar
MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd. Introduction: Sustainable technology refers to the technology which caters the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generation to meet their own needs.It enables more valuable use of the natural resources & greatly reduced ecological impact among other technological benefits. Though sustainable technology deals with energy efficiency, reduction in pollution, use of renewable sources, it should also be economically sustainable! The consumption of natural resources has been increased exponentially in past decades in rapidly industrializing countries & it is relatively recently that we have started recognizing the unpleasant consequences of the carefree attitude towards the natural environment. Textile industry is among the most essential consumer goods industry in the world as it is one the basic needs of the man. Today, the world of fashion is glamorous & very stylish; however its impact on ecology worsening day by day. Textile industry is condemned of being one of the most polluting industries in the world. Not only production butconsumption of textiles also produces waste.At every stage of the textile production, vast amount of energy, clean water & chemicals are being used to process the textiles & apparels. In turn these processes generate air, water & soil pollution through untreated effluent generation & waste generation which place heavy burden on environment. More than 2000 types of dyes, chemicals & other auxiliaries are being used in Textile Industry. The World Bank estimates that almost 20% of global industrial water pollution comes from the treatment and dyeing of textiles. Some of the toxic chemicals cannot be filtered or removed. Dyeing, washing and after-treatment of textiles requires large amounts of fresh water.Cotton production accounts for 2.6% of annual global water usage. A single T-shirt made from conventional cotton requires 2700 liters of water and a third of a pound of chemicals to produce.Millions of gallons of wastewater discharged by mills each year contain chemicals such as formaldehyde (HCHO), ammonia, chlorine, heavy metals such as lead and mercury&other pigments. These chemicals cause both environmental damage and human disease. Effluents released from mills are often at high temperatures and pH, which exacerbate the problem.Conventional cotton is highly dependent on pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers to grow. In many regions, insects limit cotton production and some of these pests become resistant to pesticides. Not surprisingly, cotton pesticides and herbicides account for 10% of all agricultural chemicals and 25% of all pesticides used worldwide each year.Untreated dyes
cause chemical and biological changes in our aquatic system, which threaten species of fish and aquatic plants. The presence of these compounds also makes practical water use unhealthy or dangerous. The enormous amount of water required by textile production competes with the growing daily water requirements of the half billion people that live in drought-prone regions of the world. By 2025, the number of inhabitants of drought-prone areas is projected to increase to almost one-third of the worldâ€™s population. If global consumption of fresh water continues to double every 20 years, the polluted waters resulting from textile production will pose a greater threat to human lives. Today, the growing awareness of environmental issues makes customers to select ecofriendly products over conventional products.While the end-consumers of textiles were earlier concerned with only the finished product, there has been an increasing drive to better understand the input materials, the relevant production processes and their implications on the environment, be it air, water or soil. Ignorance and indifference to these will no longer remain an option for the textile supply chain, so it has becomeimperative that Textile Industry should address such issues within our supply chain &adopt better and cleaner technologies. Moving to greater degree of sustainability in our industrial processes and systems requires that we achieve better balance between social, economic & environmental aspect of the textile production. With the increasing awareness environmental issues posed by Textile industry, many of technology providers are working towards the improvement of technology to reduce the environmental damage created by the Textile Industry & reduce the consumption of energy, water & chemicals. Some of the innovative environmentally efficient technology solution at reduced production cost. The Textile Wet processing industry is now in the spotlight due to the recent Detox campaign by Greenpeace and will have to align with the goal of zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by 2020 that is being pursued by several leading International Brands & Retailers.
Some of Sustainable Technologies in Textile Machineries: Following are the technologies are currently being used worldwide as an answer to sustainability:
Exhaust Piece Dyeing:
THENAIRFLOWÂŽ Machine A combination of advantages of long tube machine design with aerodynamic fabric transportation principle has been developed
by THEN with their new development the THENAIRFLOW® LOTUS machine which is the world’s first long tube machine to operate using to the original aerodynamic principle. The objective of the development was to create a system that would be especially suitable for the wet processing of delicate, easily creased, cellulose and synthetic fibre knits and wovens with a high percentage of elastanefibre, which are used in the lingerie, sport, leisure and swimwear segments. Resource benefits focus on ultra-low liquor ratio 1:2 to 1:5 with associated reduction in water demand, effluent volume and loading from reduced salt consumption when reactive dyeing and a reduced energy requirement. FONG’S have further refined their JUMBOFLOWmachine with Advanced Intelligent Rinsing(AIR) with the option of a conductivity measurement to detect when the concentration of electrolyte has reduced after reactive dye processing to a concentration where the rinsing is transferred to the soaping stage, thereby optimising water consumption. THIES have further developed their ecoMaster machine incorporating Multi Contact Dyeing from the double liquor : fabric interchange design to permit reduced dyeing times and low liquor ratios from 1:3 for synthetics to 1: 4.5 for cotton fabrics, and an auto control of the rinsing procedure using RINSEtronic software to further reduce process times and water consumption.
Cold Pad Batch Dyeing For vertical knitted fabric operations there is a renewed interest in reactive dye application by cold pad batch application due to the lower consumption of water and reduced effluent loading, with a claimed reduction in variable costs of between 15 and 30%. The resultant fabric has a much cleaner stitch definition due to no surface abrasion, and to produce a similar g/sq.mfabric as exhaust dyeing, an increase in stitch density should be considered at the knitting stage if the Cold Pad Batch application route is in ended. Developments in machine design are mostly for open width processing using sophisticated auto-centre and edge uncurling devices but also include dosing pumps, low-liquor troughs and configurations to allow dye application in the nip as well as in the low-liquor trough. Also on modern pad rollers the pressure can be adjusted across the full width to allow uniform liquor pick-up to eliminate side-centre-side variation. Integrated heating and cooling systems have also been developed to ensure constant temperature in the pad trough regardless of the time of day/season and thus improve the reliability of the process re liquor stability/hatching time
Continuous Dyeing Econtrol® Process: The Econtrol® process utilises the innovation of theThermex Hot Flue from MONFORTS. The innovation exploits the thermodynamics of water evaporation from cellulose to provide the optimum temperature and moisture conditions within the Hot Flue dryer ideal for the efficient fixation of the specially selected reactive dyes.MONFORTS have in conjunction with DyStar further developed the successful Econtrol® process and at ITMA Munich in 2007 launched the new Econtrol T-CA process forthe coloration of polyester/cellulose blends. This development combines the humiditycontrol for reactive dyes with a Thermosol unit
for application of new Dianix® T-CA disperse dyes and a new auxiliary package which obviates the need for an intermediate reduction clear process. The savings in chemicals, water, and energy are significant. Along with newest machine technology, the right dye selection also places an important role & hence to maximise the synergy between innovative machinery design andapplication process to deliver productivity, cost efficiency, and environmental benefits, it is critical to optimise dye selection.
Energy Efficiency: Energy efficiency is an integral part of sustainability.For many years textile finishing has operated with chemical and thermal processes which, by present-day standards, can have a severe impact on the environment.The energy costs are high, and the use of chemicals absolutely essential. But with innovative ranges and advanced auxiliaries, Monforts has succeeded in optimising these processes. The savings benefits that have been achieved in recent years are in some cases, quite considerable.
Monforts Eco Applicator An excellent example highlighting how the Blue Competence concept can influence the R&D activities is the Matex Eco Applicator; a unit which significantly reduces the initial moisture Monforts Eco Applicator content before the drying process. The challenge of sustainability is to save natural resources without compromising production quality of the final products. The ECO Applicator ensures reduced energy consumption, faster drying and higher productivity compared with standard equipment such as padding systems. Padding is a process employed in the textile industry for wet treatment of textiles. The fabric or ‘substrate’ is transported through a trough containing the finishing or dying liquor.The term ‘liquor’ is generally used to refer to an aqueous liquid in which textiles are washed, bleached, dyed or impregnated. It contains all the dissolved, emulsified or dispersed constituents such as dyestuffs, pigments or chemicals.During the further course of the production process, the substrate is transported through rollers to remove the excess liquor. A liquor absorption of 70 % - which is a typical value in standard padding application - means that 100 kg of textile fabric has to absorb 70 kg of liquor. After the impregnation process, the wetted fabric is dried in a final step by means of a Montexstenter.For this process, drying energy is required which, in the textile finishing industry, is a major cost factor.Influencing factors for the energy consumption and costs of drying processes are the initial moisture content, residual moisture content, drying temperature and relative water vapor content of the ambient air. The degree of initial moisture is the crucial point for determining how much evaporation heat and energy is necessary for drying.
Benefits: Reduction the liquor pick up, which is the means of operation of the MonfortsMatex ECO Applicator, results in less evaporation heat and lower operating costs. With the ECO Applicator, the liquor is not applied to the fabric by dipping it through a trough but by using steel rollers which transfer the required amount of liquor onto the fabric.With lower waste water contamination the application unit becomes a resource-conserving alternative to padding. Monfort’sEcontrol® process
Recent Developments: Brazzoli has developed a ‘Green Label’ version of its InnoEcology fabric-rope-dyeing machine, which it says is geared to reducing consumption of water, steam, energy and chemicals, as well as to increasing machine productivity, while maintaining the final product quality. As an example, Brazzoli says a jersey fabric that, in 2011, on an earlier generation of the machine, required 35 litres of water per kg/ dyed can now be processed with only 28 litres. The carbon footprint has been reduced to 1.51 kg/CO2 per kilo of fabric, equal to 0.5 kg/CO2 per T-shirt.
efficient with the discovery of the DryDyedyeing machine. Though the waterless dyeing technology using CO2 was invented in Germany almost two decades ago, no commercially viable machine was developed until now. DyeCoo Textile Systems is undoubtedly the laurelled victor acclaimed by the textile techies around the globe. Though the machine is capable of dyeing polyester at batches of 100 to 150 kg, work is under progress to accentuate the functionality of the waterless textile dyeing machine. The day is not far when
In India recently, Alliance Machines Textiles of France, displayed a new dyeing machine that uses air technology to reduce water usage. The new, low-liquor-ratio Riviera Eco+ Green is a single-tube machine that uses air to rearrange the fabric at each revolution, just before it comes into contact with the liquor. This is said to avoid creases, especially on delicate fabrics. The air is not used for fabric transport. Monforts is shortly to launch a retrofit heat-recovery system for its Montexstenters. This will allow existing users to achieve the same energy gains as with new machines, where the system comprises a compact, air-to-air heat exchanger, installed within the roof structure of the stenter. This uses energy from the exhaust gas to preheat up to 60% of the incoming fresh air entering the stenter and depending on production conditions, delivers energy savings of 10-30%.
Future of Textile Industry: In conventional textile dyeing, large amounts of water are used both in terms of intake of fresh water and disposal of wastewater. On average, an estimated 100–150 litres of water is needed to process 1 kg of textile material, with some 28 billion kilos of textiles being dyed annually. Water is used as a solvent in many pretreatment and finishing processes, such as washing, scouring, bleaching and dyeing. Hence, the elimination of process-water and chemicals would be a real breakthrough for the textile dyeing industry, and it seems this has now come to fruition, with the launch of the world’s first ever industrial dyeing machines that uses super carbon dioxide (CO2) as a replacement for water. Dyeing with CO2 “When carbon dioxide is heated to above 31°C and pressurised to above 74 bar, it becomes supercritical, a state of matter that can be seen as an expanded liquid or a heavily compressed gas. In short, above the critical point, carbon dioxide has properties of both a liquid and a gas. In this way supercritical CO2, has liquid-like densities, which is advantageous for dissolving hydrophobic dyes and gas-like low viscosities and diffusion properties, which can lead to shorter dyeing times compared to water. Compared to water dyeing, the extraction of spinning oils, the dyeing and the removal of excess dye can all be carried out in one plant in the carbon dioxide dyeing process which involves only changing the temperature and pressure conditions; drying is not required because at the end of the process CO2 is released in the gaseous state. The CO2 can be recycled easily, up to 90% after precipitation of the extracted matter in a separator.DyeCoo Textile Systems BV has achieved the unachievable, emancipating the world of fabric manufacturing from the troubles of water-based textile dyeing process for once and for all. A dyeing machine named “DryDye” that utilizes carbon dioxide (CO2) instead of water and extra textile chemical agents is a highly innovative waterless textile dyeing breakthrough achieved by the Dutch company.
reactive dyes for cellulosic are to be used resulting in greater all round efficiency and a better fabric dyeing.
Summary: If we see awareness on the hazardous effluent generated & amount of energy consumed during the entire manufacturing process of textiles & apparels amongst the end-consumers, it is very limited. Many of them are not even aware that some of the dyes & chemicals used are carcinogenic and life threatening. Some of the retailers and brands in western countries have taken a green initiative to produce goods in most sustainable manner. On the contrary, there is very little awareness amongst Indian manufacturers & end consumer about the harmful impact on the environment. Some of the processing units are still discharging untreated effluents which are polluting water bodies. Some of the dyes and chemicals can even cause chronic diseases. It is very important to bring about awareness amongst textile manufacturers & end-users. Entire textile value chain should take the initiative to manufacture the goods economically with sustainable processes & technologies with minimum or no impact on environment or consumer. Technology is a key to reach sustainability targets of the Textile industry. With volatile commodity and energy prices as well as requirements from brands, retailers, consumers and governments, sustainability has become a significant competitive factor for textile manufacturers.Sustainability is an issue with hard economic aspects. It has become a significant competitive factor. Technological upgrading is one of the keys to realise sustainable textile production and so remain competitive. Some of remarkable innovations in technology have paved the way for sustainable production technologies, but there is huge scope further for all technology providers to upgrade technology which will help in economical production of the goods in sustainable manner!
CO2 dyeing technology has become more intelligent and energy
COVER STORY Rules for setting up a Weaving project in India Mr.Sharad Tandon MD, Stadon Consulting M+91 9322260941 email@example.com www.textileceo.com www.standonconsulting.com
t is well recognised and accepted both in official as well as informal forums that weaving sector in India is one of the major bottle necks impeding growth of the entire textile chain within India. The fact having been accepted, new projects are but a logical corollary. Launch of the TUF scheme designed to bolster the weaving sector has also lead to speeding up of weaving unit installations. Absence of scientific data makes it difficult to really garner how much capacity has been installed and remaining demand supply gap if any.
to do it. The best stage is when your finances are tied up, all other motions for the project in place. At that time, do a detailed techno commercial study of which brand suits your needs and budget. Today the technology gap in most brands is as narrow as it is in cars of particular segment. Otherwise rest brands would have ceased to exist. Avoid being overly influenced by peers. Exchange rates, technological developments happening daily all play a role in the final call.
Having been closely associated with, and undertaken installation of many of these units, one has got insights of the project conceptualisation and execution as it happens today. Based on it have drawn 6 rules to keep in mind when setting up your weaving unit, that will ensure a good project and a healthy working unit.
It is easy to see negotiations as battles, a victory is so sweet. Only, you are here to win the war, and actually you are here to run a business. This has two components. The cost of acquiring an asset and the cost of running it. Do a quick calculation as to total cost of buying plus running it for a certain period of time. I personally prefer OWN + 3 years. Means the cost of buying, and the cost of running over period of 3 years. Compare equipments on offer based on this compilation.
Rule 1: Be a salesman or a technician, not both. The units being put up can be very broadly be divided in two categories. Those that put up units to meet their marketing requirement, and those that put up units to do conversion jobs for others. The mind set, and function focus of the unit is bound to be different in each. Rather, that is what should be. In our experience, little thought is given to this very major influencing factor while installing the project and the same then suffers this handicap through out its life. Those setting up units as for sales supply should design a unit that gives them a competitive edge in machine utilisation. Here the term utilisation is used in terms of commercial value add and not in terms of machine efficiency. While those doing so on conversion basis should focus on their technical and managerial capability to create margins out of conversion rates and select machines etc accordingly.
Rule 2: Design a unit first, after that buy the machine We all know and are comfortable following what the cluster or peers around us are doing. While one may have difference of opinion about that approach it still is not such a bad one. The problem occurs when we start the project by buying a machine and then trying to design a project around it. Actually technology and machines are part of a business package and should be chosen accordingly. For example a car manufacturer does not say I will buy so and so CNC machine, then go around building a factory around it. He lays out the specification of the car, designs the work flow, the set up, and accordingly chooses the machines and their specifications. Rule 3 : Finalise the brand of the machine only during negotiations. A firm mind is a good thing, a closed mind is not. Alas, there is fine line between the two. So very often we have been told to design a project with X or Y or Z brand of machine. The owner is his own wisdom having decided which machine is superior. Sometimes, explaining to them works, sometimes not. Point is not of rejecting any particular brand, it is of the timing and stage at which
Rule 4 : Check cost of owning and operating
Rule 5: Invest in measuring and recording data Todayâ€™s major consumables are things you can not see, just measure. Power, air for example. Itâ€™s very true that what is not measured is not controlled. Invest in equipments that give you regular running and recorded data of your key cost consuming inputs. Power and air are a must. Centralised machine data capture is essential. Today many machines come equipped with the software, only interfacing required. If not provided many third party options are available as retrofits. At the project stage the expenditure is fractional of the project cost though seems astronomical on individual item basis. Invest in data.
Rule 6: Purchase expertise If you are reading this most likely you are looking to invest in a manufacturing unit, some of your funds, some from the banks. That automatically means you are a successful business man, maybe in a different or same field. To get the best of technologies and commercial investment balance in your proposed plant you can choose to either gain the expertise yourself, or purchase it from sellers like us. If the quest is absorbing knowledge and becoming a expert yourself, thatâ€™s great. If it is to save on cash outflow, think again, every hour that u spend in learning from ABC is costing you lost revenue that you could have earned in that time by doing your own business. What seems free, always comes at a hidden cost. A good professional will always manage to ensure savings or performance edge that more then returns the amount spent on his or her services. Your skill lies in judging the professional. In summary, the fact remains that there is a big potential for weaving expansion in India. How you make the most of it is going to be influenced by the project design and execution.
ASSOCIATION NEWS SIMA convenes industry meet with S Gurumurthy
he Indian textile industry has been passing through severe recession since April 2014 due to glut in the global market, market access related issues, delay in conclusion of the FTAs, undue delay in disbursement of TUF subsidies, etc. At the request of the industry Associations, the Ministry of Textiles and Ministry of Commerce & Industry has also been making concerted efforts to revive the industry from the recession and seeking various supportive policy measures from the Ministry of Finance and PMO. Though the Central Government has been addressing various macro issues, particularly control of inflation, general economic conditions, infrastructure, ease of doing business measures etc., the second largest employment provider, textile industry, providing jobs to over 105 million people next only to agriculture is yet to be given weightage to enable the textile industry to grab emerging global opportunities. Recently, the Hon’ble Prime Minister met Mr.Mukesh Ambani and Mr.Kumaramangalam Birla and had detailed discussions regarding the textile industry and the Hon’ble Prime Minister advised Chief Economic Advisor to the Government of India, Mr.Arvind Subramanian to study the conditions and discuss with textile industry. Indian textile industry is facing two major challenges one on the raw material front and another on market access. Against this background, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) took up the initiative and organized an interaction meeting with Mr.S.Gurumurthy, renowned Economist and Corporate Advisor by involving all the textile industry Associations representing the whole textile value chain today at SIMA premises. The Association is making efforts to use the good offices of Mr.S.Gurumurthy to impress upon the Hon’ble Prime Minister and the Prime Minister’s Office. Mr.M.Senthilkumar, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has stated that the office-bearers and Com-
mittee members of around 20 Associations including Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), the apex body for the entire textile value chain in the Nation, Tirupur Exporters Association, Powerloom Development and Export Promotion Council, Tamilnadu Spinning Mills Association, South India Spinners Association, Handloom Export Promotion Council, South India Hosiery Manufacturers Association attended the meeting SIMA Chairman has stated that all the industry Associations have given their inputs to Mr.S.Gurumurthy and requested him to take up the issue with the Hon’ble Prime Minister and PMO and impress upon the Hon’ble Prime Minister to come out with slew of policy measures to enable the Indian textile industry to achieve its potential growth rate and achieve a lion’s share in the global textile industry as projected by the international studies including International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF). Mr.Senthilkumar has stated that India continues to decline in the overall exports for the ninth month and during September 2015 overall exports declined by 24.33%, cotton textiles by 3.58%, textiles and clothing by 5.71% and garment by 12.02%. He has added that the textiles and clothing exports recorded a marginal growth of 0.54% during April to September 2015 when compared to the same period during the previous year resulting in a virtual stagnation while the capacity has been growing steadily due to the announcement of attractive textile policies by various State governments. He has said that the world trade is undergoing certain structural changes which have severe impact on Indian exports. He has pointed out that both cyclical element of lower global demand and changes in the structural demands are affecting the textile exports. He said that Trans Pacific Partner-
ship (TPP) Agreement entered by various countries recently would conditionally improve following of extant Rules conferring origin for intermediate goods such as yarns, fabrics to be produced locally or sourced from signatory countries which would have greater impact on Indian textile exports particularly countries like Vietnam. He has said that TPP would enable countries like Vietnam to have zero duty access while Indian products would attract 14 to 32% duties. On the raw material front, SIMA Chairman has stated that the country would need around 20 billion kgs of fibre to achieve the vision of the Hon’ble Prime Minister of 300 billion US $ textile business size by 2020 from the current level of 110 billion US $. He said that the cotton fibre production which is at 6.7 billion kgs could be increased to 8 billion kgs with right technologies in place and balance 12 billion kgs should be met from manmade fibres and it is impossible to increase the manufacturing base by five times. He has said that the tariff protection given to few indigenous fibre manufacturers should be withdrawn and the fibres be made available at international price to enable the industry to achieve its potential growth rate and grab the global opportunities. SIMA Chairman has requested Mr.S.Gurumurthy to recommend the government to:•
Release adequate funds to clear all the pending TUF subsidies to sustain Rs.1.00 lakh crores investments already made;
Provide 3% interest subvention for all textile products till the country achieves the envisaged growth rate in exports; • Provide suitable market specific incentives under MEIS till the FTAs are concluded •
Remove 5% import duty, 4% special additional duty, anti-dumping duty and reduce central excise duty from 12.5% to 6% to make MMF available at international price; •
Make Cotton Corporation of India to follow industry-friendly cotton trading policy; •
Reduce hank yarn obligation from 40% to 20%; •
Reduce number of fabric items covered under Handloom Reservation Act from 11 to 3 or 4; •
Direct banks to fully pass on the repo rate reduction benefit to the customers; •
Announce stable and win-win strategy policies including the Textile Policy and implementation of GST
In his Presidential Address Dr. B.K.Krishnaraj Vanavarayar, Past Chairman, SIMA and CITI has stated that Mr.Gurumurthy is capable of understanding the current scenario of the textile industry and sensitize the government to take necessary action and make the industry vibrant. Mr.Naushad Parikh, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry, in his special address stated that there is an urgent need to address the raw material issue, implement direct transfer of cotton subsidy to the farmers to resolve the various issues relating to cotton and also duty structure of manmade fibre. He has also stated that it is essential for India to negotiate and conclude various FTAs to get better market access. Dr A Sakthivel, President,
Tirupur Exporters Association in his address insisted FTAs with EU to double the garments and thereby increase the domestic demand for yarns and fabrics. He has also urged to expedite the announcement of interest subvention which has been under active consideration for more than a year to have competitive edge in the open market. He has also stressed the need for allocating adequate funds for market development in the overseas. Mr.A.P.Appukutty, President, Tamil Nadu Spinning Mills Association, Mr.Viking Easwaran, The South India Handloom Manufacturers Association, Mr.P.Elango, Chairman, The South India Textile Processors Association, Mr.C.Varatharajan, President, The South India Spinners’ Association, Mr. M Jayabal, Coordinator, Tamil Nadu Open End Spinning Mills Association, Mr.T.R.Vivekananthan, President, Madurai Spinners’ Association, Mr.A.R.Chinnaiyan, former President, India Spinning Millowners Association also put forth their respective views and the policy measures urgently required to revive the industry from the crisis. Mr.Ramanathan and Mr Prabhu Domodaran of Indian Texpreneurs Federation have suggested recognizing the existing textile clusters in Tamil Nadu which accounts for 1/3rd of the textile business and also the need to develop such clusters across the Nation. They also suggested addressing the issues relating to manmade fibres and FTAs to increase the business size of the textile industry and its share in the global market. Mr.S.Nagarajan, President, Dyers Association of Tirupur cautioned that
Tirupur based dyeing cluster might come to grinding halt if the promised fund allocations for the 18 CETPs are not allocated on time. He has pointed out that Tirupur was the cluster which came out with fool proof technology of treating textile effluents with zero liquid discharge technology, which recycles more than 90% of the water and also protect the environment. Mr.S.Gurumurthy after listening to the views of the industry Associations has stated that he could get lot of views and fully understood the present plight of the textile industry and also the various remedial measures required. While appreciating the joint efforts of all the industry Association to sensitize the government through him, he advised the industry to come with a proposal which is good for the Nation, industry and society at large. He also advised the industry to come out with more facts and figures and analytical report justifying the condition of the industry and the demands. He also advised the industry to be proactive and innovative. He felt that cooperation with Bangladesh and Vietnam would greatly benefit the textile industry to increase its demand and advised the industry to come with suitable proposals. Mr.T.Rajkumar immediate Past Chairman of SIMA, in his vote of thanks advised all the Associations to send their proposals to SIMA so that SIMA can consolidate the views of all the Associations and send a report to Mr.S.Gurumurthy. The photographs taken during the meeting are attached.
Cotton Advisory Board Meet Cotton Balance Sheet for the cotton season 2014-15 and 2015-16 as drawn by CAB as on 03.11.2015 (Figure In lakh bales of 170 kg each)
The First Meeting of Cotton Advisory Board for the Cotton Season 2015-16 was held today i.e. on 03.11.2015 under the Chairpersonship of Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner of India, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. Smt. Anu Garg, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, representatives from Central Govt., State Govt., Textile Industry, Cotton Trade and Ginning & Pressing Sector attended the meeting. The Cotton scenario was deliberated, also Statewise Area, Production, Import, Export and Consumption of Cotton were discussed. The provisional state-wise area, Cotton Production and the Balance Sheet drawn by the Cotton Advisory Board for the Cotton Season 2014-15 and 2015-16 was decided as below.
Supply Opening Stock Crop (Production) Imports Total Supply
Demand Mill Consumption Small Scale Units Consumption Non Textile consumption Exports
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POST SHOW REPORT Techtextil India completes five successful editions and continues to show strong business prospects in Indian market
Platform appreciated for technology innovations and highlighting opportunities to enter nonwoven business Celebrating its 5th edition as India’s largest exhibition for the echnical textiles and nonwovens industry, Techtextil India lived up to its promise of a truly business and growth-oriented trade fair for India. The huge product portfolio by 158 exhibitors, strong international participation from 11 countries, concurrent Techtextil India Symposium, intense interactions with 5,050 business visitors from 35 countries and re-bookings for 2017 by over 30% exhibitors exemplified the trade potential and dynamism of the platform. Mr Vikas Sharan, Vice President, Textile Engineering – Knitting, Synthetics, Nonwovens & Carpets, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt Ltd said: “We have been participating in Techtextil India since 2009, and it gives me great pleasure to see the exhibition expanding and adding new Indian and international participants to its fold. We have witnessed the industry gatekeepers and decision-makers and had good interactions with those visiting our booth. The exhibition is not only holding ground but also showing positive signs of expansion.” German exhibitor Lindauer Dornier GmbH strongly believes that the Indian market is advancing and demonstrates good potential for textile and technology players. Mr Alois Felder, Head of Product Management said: “We are machine makers who explore existing technologies and use them. Techtextil India enables us to understand the Indian market scenario and gain an idea of the competition. Currently, filtration is a big subject and we have come across focused visitors in that segment.” First-time participants from China, Zhentai also reported a good business experience. Ms Cherry Zheng, Manager said: “In India, nonwoven fabric production is expected to go up and we met many useful contacts in this regard who showed strong interest in our machinery. We look forward to coming again for the next edition.” The well-established format covering the entire technical textile value chain through its 10 product groups and 12 application areas brought to the forefront innovative concepts that can help the Indian technical textile industry better employ technology and resources to meet market demand.
Mr B.B. Sharma, CEO (Textile Projects), Sintex, who is looking at making sizeable investments in the sector, found the exhibition very useful. He said: “We are looking at setting up a spinning cotton plant in Gujarat with an investment to the tune of 6000 crore (USD 926 million), and came to meet some selected exhibitors at the show. However, there was so much to see and explore at the exhibition and integrate in our business. A lot of new products caught our interest. Dornier, for example, showed how weaving can be implemented for different applications, replacing conventional legacy of fabrics. The exhibition was very useful.” Mr Pradeep Sharma, Proprietor, Ridham Synthetics Pvt Ltd said: “I was in Kolkata and had to cut my trip short to visit Techtextil India because this is a very important fair for us. There were so many things I saw for the very first time including the plastic welding machine and felting equipment. We are setting up a new line of business for handbags and Techtextil India has provided a fair deal of variety in high-quality fabrics for our requirements – both from Indian and international exhibitors. I am glad I did not miss the show this year.” Continuing the ethos of promoting the development of the technical textiles sector in its entirety, the annual Techtextil India Symposium brought together an eminent gathering of professionals and set the stage for discussions and deliberations within the textile fraternity. Mr Pranaya Sabat, Marketing Manager, JCT Ltd who presented new developments in technical textiles in terms of raw materials at his session found the discussions highly productive. He said: “It was a stimulating discussion as the subject was fairly new and delegates were keen to know more and get their reservations cleared. Technical textiles is moving ahead and the show has become an important meeting point for the industry.” Mr G. Ravishankar, Managing Consultant, K’s Technical and Management Consultants, who was attending the sessions said: “From the selection of topics to the technology highlights and new application areas, everything we see here points to growing opportunities and makes us confident to invest in the sector.” Also impressed with the exhibition and symposium, Ms Nidhi
Bhardwaj, Senior Manager Export Marketing – Polysters, Alok Industries Ltd said: “Alok Industries intends on increasing the exports and growth of its specialised yarns segment and what better place than Techtextil India to understand the technology, projects and products that are coming up in the industry. The sessions highlighted a lot of opportunities for nonwoven end use sectors. The international participation at the show reaffirmed our trust in the growing Indian market, which is drawing attention globally. We look forward to participating as exhibitors in the next edition and
gain good prospects for our business.” Techtextil India is part of the “Technical Textiles” brand with 6 shows worldwide within Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network comprising 47 fairs that highlight innovations and show what is driving the global textile industry. Held biennially in India, the next edition of Techtextil India will take place from 13 - 15 September 2017.
Global Yarn and Fabric Output up in Q2/2015
ositive estimates (Q3/2015) and unchanged outlook (Q4/2015) for global yarn and fabric output Global yarn production rose in Q2/2015 quarter-on-quarter. Thereby, all regions experienced increases, whereby the strongest growth was measured in Asia and North America. It has to be noted, that due to a data error, the Asian yarn output for Q1/2015 was revised upwards, which also led to an upward revision of global output. On an annual basis, the global yarn production in Q2/2015 increased moderately due to positive developments in Asia and NorthAmerica. Worldwide yarn stocks rose in Q2/2015 versus Q1/2015. Thereby, yarn stocks in Asia and South America were increased, while European stocks were reduced. Year-on-year, global yarn stocks increased. Yarn orders in Europe rose in Q2/2015 quarter-on-quarter as well as year-on-year. In South America, however, they fell. Global fabric production rose in Q2/2015 against Q1/2015 with all regions showing increases. It has to be pointed out that Asia’s production is usually significantly higher in the Q2 compared to Q1. Due to Chinese New Year holidays, which traditionally are around the end of January or beginning of February, China has less working days in the first quarter than during the rest of the year, which affects output in Q1 negatively. The global fabric production in Q2/2015 fell compared the same quarter of the previous year. World fabric stocks were increased quarter-on-quarter in Q2/2015. Yearon-year, they also rose with increases in nearly all regions except for North America. Fabric orders in Q2/2015 decreased moderately in Europe quarter-on-quarter and rose in South America. On an annual basis, European orders rose, while they fell in South America.
ured in Asia with 9%. Europe and South America recorded increases of 3.3% and 2.6%, respectively. Year-on-year, global fabric output fell by 2%. Thereby, Asian production fell by 2.2%, European output fell by 4.3% and in South America it decreased by 7.3%. Global yarn inventories were increased by 2% in Q2/2015 quarter-on-quarter. Thereby, European inventories fell by 2.2%, while South American stocks recorded a strong rise of 26%. On an annual basis, global yarn inventories increased by 4% due to a strong rise in South America (+25.6%). In Asia yarn stocks rose by 4.6% year-on-year, while they fell in Europe (-6%). Worldwide fabric stocks rose by 4.3% in Q2/2015 versus Q1/2015. Stocks in Asia and South America were increased by 0.3% and 15.7%, respectively. Global fabric inventories in Q2/2015 climbed by 3.7% year-on-year. While fabric stocks were increased by 0.4% in Asia, by 4% in Europe and by 14% in South America, they were reduced by 0.7% in NorthAmerica. In Q2/2015, European yarn orders rose by 3.5% quarter-on-quarter and by 2% year-onyear. In South America they fell by 27% quarter-on-quarter and by 47% year-on-year.European fabric orders in Q2/2015 fell moderately by 0.2% quarter-onquarter and increased by nearly 4% year-on-year. Fabric orders in Q2/2015 in South America increased by 3.8% quarter-on-quarter and fell by 4% year-on-year. November 2015
Estimates for yarn production for Q3/2015 are positive in Asia and in North America, while they remain unchanged in Europe. Estimates for fabric production for Q3/2015 are positive in Asia and unchanged in Europe. The outlook for yarn and fabric production for Q4/2015 is unchanged in Asia and in Europe. In Q2/2015, global yarn production rose by 13% quarter-onquarter after a rise of 27% in Q1/2015. Thereby, Asian yarn output in Q2/2015 rose by 14% quarter-on-quarter. In Europe, North and South America output increased by 2%, 5.6% and 1.4%, respectively. Global yarn output rose moderately in Q2/2015 versus Q2/2014 by 0.4%. Thereby, yarn output rose by 0.7% in Asia and by 3% in North America. In Europe and South America it fell by 8.7% and 1.4% yearon-year, respectively.Global fabric production increased by 9% in Q2/2015 against the previous quarter. Strong increases were meas-
CORPORATE NEWS SHOPPERS STOP LAUNCHES ‘Femina FLAUNT’ FASHION A premium chic range of clothing, shoes, bags & accessories
hoppers Stop, India’s leading fashion retailer, in a unique ‘cocreate’ & ‘co-own’ partnership with Bennett, Coleman & Co. Ltd. (BCCL), one of India’s leading multimedia groups, today launched ‘Femina FLAUNT’ fashion at its store in Juhu. ‘Femina FLAUNT’ is a fashion-forward brand featuring a premium chic range of clothing, shoes, bags and accessories. Priced from Rs. 549 – Rs 5499, the ‘Femina FLAUNT’ fashion range will be exclusively available at Shoppers Stop stores. The brand will be rolled out in 17 Shoppers Stop stores across the country and at www.shoppersstop.com over the next 3-4 weeks. The stylish collection was unveiled by Athiya Shetty, along with Mr. Vineet Jain, Managing Director – BCCL and Mr. Govind Shrikhande, Customer Care Associate & Managing Director, Shoppers Stop Ltd. Athiya Shetty said, “I am happy to be at Shoppers Stop for the launch of Femina FLAUNT. I totally love the vibrant colors, stylish silhouettes and chic vibe of the collection. It’s definitely going to be a fresh addition to my wardrobe.” Speaking about the partnership, Mr. Govind Shrikhande, Customer Care Associate & Managing Director, Shoppers Stop Ltd. said, “Femina FLAUNT is yet another addition to our stable of exclusive brand partnerships, reinforcing our commitment to providing customers a highly differentiated brand assortment. Femina FLAUNT is a trend-setting fashion-forward brand that fits seamlessly into our existing portfolio of aspirational fashion brands for women. We are confident that Femina FLAUNT will be a huge success with our discerning women shoppers.” Speaking on the occasion, Mr. Vineet Jain, Managing Director – BCCL, said, “Femina, one of our flagship brands has had a phenomenal bond with its readers, over the last many decades. Today, that relationship gets redefined, as ‘Femina FLAUNT’ moves into their wardrobes. With Shoppers Stop as the partner, we’re confident of ‘Femina FLAUNT’s path-breaking journey ahead.” Designed for women who like to step out in style, ‘Femina FLAUNT’s collection
strikes the perfect balance between comfort and style. The ‘Femina FLAUNT’ Autumn-Winter 2015 collection has launched with over 125 styles, in two diverse fashion stories: one offers a ‘relaxed look with a street smart attitude’ while the other offers a sharp ‘desk to dinner’ look. The range comprises styles that are modern and that reinvent the color palette with an array of autumn hues - shades of grey, walnut & coffee, powder whites with accents of berry reds & deep blondes. Contour skirts, power and pleated dresses give work wear a chic twist. Contemporary patterns, trendy prints, smudgy florals, sharp construct and detailing add to the exclusivity of the collection. Further, any day-look can be layered with trendy shrugs, cardigans and colorful jackets to create an equally stylish evening look. The collection also features a special edition premium ‘Evening’ line that includes sequin-embellished dresses and little black dresses, amongst others for the upcoming festive and party season. The ‘Femina FLAUNT’ brand is further complemented with a footwear range – peep toes, wedges, espadrilles for the street look, suede to gloss faux leather, ankle boots and ballerinas that complete the look of the discerning woman on the move. Commenting on the range, Mr. Sandeep Dahiya, Director & Business Head – Brand Extensions, BCCL, said, “We’re extremely happy to see our collective efforts leading to a range that’s in sync with current global fashion trends, while being mindful of the Indian women’s style sensibilities.” He further added, “We’re confident that while the designs and quality of this range will excite the consumers, the price points will leave them surprised. And that’s also the USP of the range.” Fashion Handbags have today become one of the most significant components of any wardrobe. The ‘Femina FLAUNT’ A/W ’15 range accentuates the look of the season with its stylish range of handbags – from slings and bags to clutches and stylized backpacks. Refreshing color options (berry reds, coral & mint, vintage blacks, accent rust and metallics in silver & gold), minute detailing, and hybrid designs is
what sets them apart. Femina, one of BCCL’s flagship brands has extended itself into consumer space through its retail identity, ‘FLAUNT’ – a ‘go-to’, out of home Fashion & Lifestyle brand representing dynamism, aspirations and spirit of a modern woman. BCCL has licensed ‘Femina FLAUNT’ to Shoppers Stop to design, develop, & retail the brand in core fashion categories – clothing, footwear, accessories & bags, exclusively through 300-400 sq feet of dedicated shopin-shop space within Shoppers Stop. About Shoppers Stop Shoppers Stop Ltd. is one of the pioneers in setting up large format department stores in India. The flagship department store business, Shoppers Stop, is now one of India’s largest retail chains of large format department stores in the country. It is a one-stop shop for products across multiple categories including apparel, cosmetics, fragrances, artificial and fine jewellery, footwear, personal accessories such as watches, sunglasses, handbags, wallets and belts, kids wear, toys, home decor and much more. Shoppers Stop offers more than 400 of the finest international and national brands across categories. It is the only Indian member of IGDS (Intercontinental Group of Departmental stores) along with 29 other experienced retailers from all over the world.
TECHNICAL ARTICLE Processing Flax Cotton Blended Yarn On Modern Rotor Spinning Machines
Satyakam Srivastava, Ajay Sharma, CBK Singh, DK Sharma, Satpal Singh, Kailash Pancholi, Babu Matthew. RSWM Limited, Lodha, Banswara, Rajashthan, India
Abstract We present the results of tests on latest SCHLAFHORST ACO-8 rotor spinning machine spinning rotor-spun blended yarns, made with a high proportion of flax, and rotor-spun all-cotton yarns. Of special concern was the method of preparing the fibres and sliver. The flax/cotton sliver was made up of short-medium cotton, and the flax fibre was shortened and reduced in diameter by mechanical cottonizing. The basic composition of the flax/cotton sliver was 45% cotton and 55% mechanically cottonised flax. The optimum linear density of the yarns was 40 LEA. The experiments enabled the optimum values of twist and linear density to be found, at which the quality parameters of the yarns produced were acceptable.
identified by their typical “nodes” which add to the flexibility and texture of the fabric. The cross-section of the fibre is made up of irregular polygonal shapes which contribute to the coarsetexture of the fabric.
Fibre quality characteristics Selection of fibre Linen has various quality of fibre in market; fibres with higher length and better quality like Laura, Honey etc. were not very suc-
INTRODUCTION Linen the yarn and its advantages, Higher moisture absorption Capacity, almost double than cotton, makes it a thirsty fabric. Linen allows the skin to breathe, and is extremely comfortable under all weather conditions. Cool in summer, warm in winter and refreshed in humid weather. Linen helps to protect the skin from harmful UV rays. It has Natural anti-bacterial repellent properties. With repeated washing, the fabric attains new sheen and airiness which makes it even 1 / 5 Flax Yarn more skin friendly. It is extremely durable and wear resistant. Naturally anti-static and hence repels dust. For many years RSWM has been working with the Natural Fibres, in the manufacture of blended rotor-spun cotton/flax yarns. This has contributed to the development of a technology for manufacturing a yarn made from 55% mechanically cottonised flax in blend (before processing) with cotton, and the use of this yarn for woven and knitted fabrics and other textiles which are currently regarded on the market as being ecologically-friendly. Flax (as well as hemp) has high utilitarian and ecological values, being antiseptic (bacteriologial, antifungal), absorbent, physiologically friendly (hygroscopic, thermal, and electrostatic properties), and protective against UV radiation. This paper presents the results of the rotor spinning of yarns of 40LEA, using flax/cotton blends with a high proportion of mechanically cottonised flax of 55% flax / 45% cotton in blends. Despite the competitive abundance of different yarns and fabrics that are available today, linen, with its natural grace and luxury, has retained its place. Many weavers have found that linen can be woven successfully with other fibres and in every case it is the linen content that has added the extra richness of quality and handle and the added value.
MATERIAL AND PROCEDURE Flax is of two types:There are two varieties: shorter tow fibres used for coarser fabrics and longer line fibres used for finer fabrics. Flax fibres can be
cessful due to high length and created high breakages at Rotor spinning. We selected lowest quality of flax with least cottonisation. Thefibre consists of lots of dirt, dust and soil. The fibre is subjected to modified cleaners to remove the dust in the fibre. This also opens the fibre which is sticking together while baling is done. Approx. 5% waste is removed in form of dust and short fibre. This material is again passed through another opener (make trutzschler ) which further opens the fibre and removes small sticks (stem particles)Approx. 7% waste is generated at this stage.The fibre softens during this process in terms of general feel with respect to raw bale form. The fibre is layered and conditioned with 15 – 18% of water substantiated with suitable chemicals for 24 hours . this leads to further softening and increase in weight of fibre.The water essentially added strengthens fibre during further process of blowroom card and drawframe, and keeps the fibre intact and prevent further damage to fibre(controlling short fibre content). The fibre is now weighed and mixed with weighed cotton to create mixing(mixing of linen / cotton of 55/45 %). This is stage 1 on blender (higher percentage of flax is preferred to keep correct blend at Rotor spinning tested by fibre counting method). Now mixing enters stage 2 of blender. Mixing is moistened with 5% of water by weight to maintain moisture level.This stage 2 material is ready for carding. Material is carded on Trutzschler TC 05 cards at the speed of 60 kg / hr. The carded sliver is processed through drawframe Rieter D-40, single passage with adequate gauge and at speed of 550 m/min with 6 ends up.The finished sliver is kept in covered cans to maintain moisture level. The finished sliver is then processed at Open End Spinning (Rotor Spinning) Schlafhorst ACO-8, to generate Ne 14 and Ne 20 counts ( 39.5 LEA and 56 LEA). Selection of small Rotor Diameter
was done contrary to Rotor Spinning practice regarding linen. Efficiency achieved 90% with approximately 90% recovery of fibre from blowroom to Rotor spinning. Certain precaution to be observed while spinning linen in Rotor spinning 1.The rotor speed should be adequate enough to provide enough centrifugal force to fibre to impart twist. 2. Opening roller should be at lowest best speed to reduce loss of Linen fibre while spinning and also allow fibre to travel from feed roller to rotor in time. 3. The moisture level in fibre should allow fibre to bend tortionally at the point of navel. The raised moisture level at sliver can restrict feed at feed roller and feed plate. 4. Use maximum false twist generator at Navel to provide better spinnablity as the number of fibre at the cross section of yarn is very low and rigidity of linen fibre does not sustain false twist.
products (e.g. socks). 1. Compared to all-cotton yarns, the blended yarns with flax are characterized by lower strength (about 10% lower) and higher coefficients of variation of linear density and strength. The differences between the two types of yarn are due, inter alia to the fact that cotton is much thinner than cottonised flax, which makes a significant difference as far as the number of fibres in the yarn cross-section is concerned. In addition to that, cotton, owing to its shape, has a greater suitability for spinning than cottonised flax. It is true, however, that in respect to their quality parameters, the blended yarns satisfy the quality requirements of the relevant standards. 2. To ensure a smooth process when spinning a flax/cotton blend, it is necessary to use a higher twist factor, of the order of 1012%. As a consequence, the efficiency of spinning proper is reduced.
5. The tension on yarn during winding package should be low enough to keep the package build adequate.
3. The introduction of cottonised flax to rotor-spinning in a blend with cotton is a contribution to the more effective utilization of flax, since the cotton system machinery is much more productive.There is a definite advantage of production in Rotor spinning due to high speed.
6. The environment neat the Rotor spinning machine should be with 75% relative humidity initiated by external humidifiers to
4. It is possible to spin the Cotton Flax blended yarn at higher speed with newer technologies which facilitate better spinning.
keep control on moisture content in sliver cans.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION The technology developed for rotor-spinning flax/cotton blends with a flax content up to 55% permits the production of cotton-type yarns ranging from 40 to 56 LEA. These yarns are suitable for the production of a wide range of woven, knitted and other textile
1. W. Cierpucha, J. Mańkowski, J. Waśko, T. Mańkowski, S. Zaręba, J. Szporek: ‘Application of mechanically cottonised flax and hemp to rotor spinning.’ Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, No2, 2002, p. 32. 2. W. Cierpucha, R. Kozłowski, J. Mańkowski, J. Waśko, T. Mańkowski: ‘Suitability of flax and hemp for the production of cotton-type fibre and blended yarns.’ Fi - bres& Textiles in Eastern Europe, No3, 2004, p. 13. 3. W. Cierpucha, S. Zaręba, J. Mańkowski, J. Szporek: ‘Utilitarian values of products made from cotton/flax and cotton/hemp blends’ (in Polish). PrzeglądWłókienniczy – November 2001, p. 15. 4. J. Mańkowski, W. Cierpucha, J. Koło - dziej: ‘Modification of flax and hemp to spinning in blend with other fibres’ (in Polish). SpektrumTekstylno-Włókienni - cze 3/2005, p. 23. 5. W. Ankudowicz, J. Wróblewski: ‘Prepara - tion of flax fibres and spinning with cot - ton’, Research Reports of the Textile Re - search Institute, vol. XXX, Łódź, Poland. 6. T. Jackowski, J. Czekalski, B. Chylewska, D. Cyniak: ‘Yarn blends hemp-cotton’ (in Polish), Proceedings of the Textile Faculty Conference, Technical University of Łódź, March, 2000. 7. J. Czekalski, K. Patejuk: ‘The Effect of Flax Fibre Modification on the Quality of Linen/Cotton-Blended Yarn’, PrzeglądWłókienniczy, No. 10/1999, pp.11. 8. T. Jackowski, B. Chylewska, D. Cyniak, J. Czekalski: ‘Tensile Strength of Untwi - sted Blended Cotton/Flax Fibre Streams’, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, vol. 11, No. 3(42)2003. 9. T. Jackowski, B. Chylewska, D. Cyniak, J. Czekalski, L. Jackowska-Strumiłło: ‘Mo - delling of the Relationship Between Fe - eding Sliver Structures and Parameters of Cotton/Linen Blended Yarns’, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, vol. 11, No. 2(41)2003. 10. J. Czekalski, T. Jackowski, I. Krucińska: ‘Analysis of the Manufacturing Process of Blended Fine Yarns with the Content of Flax Fibres’, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, vol. 8, No. 2(29)2000.
RUBY INDUSTRIES, PLOT NO : 12, 13, 18, 19, Shiv Aradhana Industrial Park, Village : Kuha, Ahmedabad Indore Highway road, opp. Petrol Pump, Ahmedabad, Gujarat
TECHNICAL ARTICLE ELECTROSPINNING â€“ A METHOD OF PRODUCING ULTRA FINE FIBRES Prof. Tanveer Malik, Prof. Shyam Barhanpurkar, Prof. Yogita Agrawal & Prof. Tapan Kumar Sinha *Facuties, Department of Textile Technology Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science, indore Introduction: Electrospinning can be described as a process which utilizes the electrostatic attraction between a charged polymer and a grounded or oppositely charged collection plate within an electric field i.e. in the this process a high voltage is used to create an electrically charged jet of polymer solution or melt, which dries or solidifies to leave a polymer fiber. History: In the late 1500s Sir William Gilbert describe the behavior of magnetic and electrostatic phenomena. During experiment he observed that when a suitably electrically charged piece of amber was brought near a droplet of water it would form a cone shape and small droplets would be ejected from the tip of the cone: this is the first recorded observation of electrospraying. The process of electrospinning was patented by J.F Cooley in February 1902 (U.S. Patent 692,631) and by W.J. Morton in July 1902 (U.S. Patent 705,691). In 1914 John Zeleny, published work on the behavior of fluid droplets at the end of metal capillaries. His effort began the attempt to mathematically model the behaviour of fluids under electrostatic forces. Further developments toward commercialization were made by Anton Formhals, and described in a sequence of patents from 1934 (U.S. Patent 1,975,504) to 1944 (U.S. Patent 2,349,950) for the fabrication of textile yarns (a process that produced fine fibers from a cellulose acetate solution). Electrospinning from a melt instead of a solution was patented by C.L Norton in 1936 (U.S. Patent 2,048,651). Between 1964 and 1969 Sir Geoffrey Ingram Taylor produced the theoretical underpinning of electrospinning. Taylorâ€™s work contributed to electrospinning by mathematically modelling the shape of the cone formed by the fluid droplet under the effect of an electric field; this characteristic droplet shape is now known as the Taylor cone. In 1996 Reneker & Chun had find the probability of electrospinning using different kind of polymer solution wasproved In the 1990s many researches were to popularize electrospinning process for the production of nanofibers. After this advancement done is exponentially. Reznik et al. (2004) describes extensive work on the shape of the Taylor cone and ejection of fluid jet. Yarin et al. (2001) try to describe the most important instability, the bending (whipping) instability of electrospinning process. Principle: In this method electrostatic principle is used in which charge between two plate is created and one plate have connected to the syringe of very small diameter in that syringe polymermelt or solution is filled up. When the polymer is discharged from the tip of the syringe it initially held by surface tension force. This induces a charge on the surface of the liquid. Mutual charge repulsion causes a force directly opposite to the surface tension. As the intensity of
the electric field is increased, the hemispherical surface of the fluid at the tip of the capillary tube elongates to form a conical shape known as the Taylor cone. With increasing field, a critical value is attained. . When the electrostatic attraction overcomes the surface tension and visco-elastic components of the polymer, the polymer droplet will ejected from a cone known as Taylor cone. The ejected polymer fluid form jet. The discharged polymer solution jet undergoes a whipping process where in the solvent evaporates, leaving behind a charged polymer fiber, which lays itself randomly on a grounded collecting metal screen.. In the case of the melt the discharged jet solidifies when it travels in the air and is collected on the grounded metal screen.
While in case of conventional fiber spinning techniques (wet spinning, dry spinning, melt spinning, gel spinning), which are producing polymer fibers with diameters down to the micrometer range, electrospinning is a process capable of producing polymer fibers in the nanometer diameter range. This electrostatic processing method uses a high- voltage electric field to form solid fibers from a polymeric fluid stream (solution or melt) delivered through a millimeter-scale nozzle. Nanofibers are the ultra-fine solid fibers notable for their very small diameters (lower than 100 nm), their large surface area per unit mass and small pore size. Electrospinning Process Parameter: The above description of the process suggests that the following parameters affect the process:
Electrospinning raw material parameter y y y y y y
Polymer molecular weight Solvent Concentration and viscosity Surface tension of polymer solution Conductivity of polymer solution Temperature of polymer solution
Electrospinning process conditions y y y y y
Voltage Syringe Traverse Speed Distance between nozzle and collector Inert diameter of nozzle Collector shape and moving speed
• Electrospinning has the potential to produce seamless non-woven garments by integrating advanced manufacturing with fiber electrospinning.
Environmental parameter y y y y y
• Multi functionality(flame proof, water proof, etc. ) fabric are to be produced by blending with other poltmer. y Filtration:
Temperature Humidity Oxygen content Atmosphere (vacuum, N2,...) Magnetic field
The use of nanofiber webs as a filtering medium is widely use. Air filter consisting of layered nanofibers nonwoven material developed by Donaldson. The enhanced filtration efficiency at the same pressure drop is possible with fibers having diameters less than 0.5 micrometer. Since the essential properties of protective clothing are high moisture vapor transport, increased fabric breath-ability, and enhanced toxic chemical resistance, electrospun nanofiber membranes are good candidates for these applications. y Catalysts:
Advantages of Electrospinning: y y y y y
The fibers are very thin and have a high length to diameter ratio. They provide a very large surface area per unit mass. Only a small amount of material is required. There is very little waste. The process is versatile: fibers can be spun onto any shape using a wide range of polymers.
Electrospun fibers may have potential as a surface for enzymes to be immobilized on. These enzymes could be used to break down toxic chemicals in the environment, among other things. Electrospun fibers with Pd particles have 4.5 times higher catalytic activity than the current Pd/Al2O3 catalyst.
Disadvantages of Electrospinning: y The biggest drawback to electrospinning nanofibers is its low production rates. (Syringes can deliver material only so quickly) y We do not yet know full interactions of parameters. Most of the papers investigate the effect of only one parameter. y Produced nanofibers are not uniform in terms of their diameter y Formation of defected nanofibers with beads
Conclusions and future perspectives: Electrospinning is a very simple and versatile method of creating polymer-based high functional and high performance nano fibers that can revolutionise the world of structural materials. The process is versatile in that there is a wide range of polymer and biopolymer solutions or melts that can be spun. Essential studies, nevertheless, are still required and many challenges remain to be faced. In particular, integration of nano fibers into useful devices requires nano fibers of well-controlled orientation, size, and other target characteristics as well as reproducibility locating them in specific positions and orientations. The ability to do so, however, remains a major challenge in the field. The design and construction of process equipment for controllable and reproducible electrospinning could determine the character of instabilities revealed, satisfy potential implementation and act as stimulus to provide new products. Productivity improvement of the electrospinning process is also an essential feature and required more studies.
Increasing production from each machine will require: y Using machines with multiple syringes. y Applying multijet, needle-less devices, although this technology lacks repeatability for nonwovens because the jet formations are essentially random. y Developing a new approach to obtain very high spatial control of each single jet, so as to be able to “write” with the nanowire during its production at several millimeter/second, with submillimeter resolution. With this capability, a single head with hundreds of holes can be used to maintain quality. y Increasing the flow rate of the extruder/pump system with an advanced, high-voltage system that increases charge transfer to the polymer.
Refrences: • Reneker DH, Chun I. Nanometre diameter fibresof polymer produced by electrospinning. Nanotechnology 1996;7:216 – 23. • Larrondo L, Manley RSJ. Electrostatic fiber spinning from polymer melts. I. Experimental observations on fiber formation and properties. J Polym Sci Polym Phys Ed 1981;19:909 –20.
Application of Electrospinning: Medical: In medical electrospinning is use in following :y Artificial organ components; y Tissue engineering; y Implant materials; y In vivo wound healing of diabetic ulcers using electrospun nanofibers immobilized with human epidermal growth factor (EGF) y Medical textile materials; y Drug delivery system; y Researchers at the University of Washington, funded in part by using a grant from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, are developing futuristic nanofabric condoms that can be inserted
into the penis. There they will dissolve and distribute preventive drugs, meaning they can act as a contraceptive while also preventing sexually transmitted diseases. Textile manufacturing: Uses are as follows-
• Bognitzki M, Frese T, Steinhart M, Greiner A, Wendorff JH. Preparation of fibers with nanoscaled morphologies: electrospinning of polymer blends. Polym Eng Sci 2001;41:982 – 9.
• Bognitzki M, Wendorff JH, Greiner A. Submicrometer shaped polylactide fibers by electrospinning. Polym Prep (ACS, PMSE) 2000;82:115 –6. Buer A, Ugbolue SC, Warner SB. Electrospinning and properties of some nanofibers. Textile Res J 2001;71:323 –8.
• Kim J-S, Reneker DH. Polybenzimidazole nanofiber produced by electrospinning. Polym Eng Sci 1999;39:849 –54. Rangpukan R, Reneker DH. Development of electrospinning from molten polymersin vacuum. J Textile Apparel, Technol Manage 2001, vol. 1. Special issue: The Fiber Society Spring 2001 Conference, Raleigh NC.
PRE SHOW REPORT ITMACH Bhiwandi 2015 Is Fast Filling Up
ver 125 Exhibitors Will Showcase At ITMACH Bhiwandi, 2015. ITMACH India in association with Textile Excellence - one of the reputed business media for the textile and clothing industry is organising ITMACH Bhiwandi 2015. The event has already proved its reach and reputation across the textile manufacturing hub in India following the runaway success of the premiere edition of ITMACH Bhiwandi and ITMACH India in Ahmedabad. With its motto ‘To bring textile machinery manufacturers closer to their customers’, ITMACH Bhiwandi in its 2nd edition aims at bringing together visitors and exhibitors from all sectors of the industry within India and neighbouring countries. ITMACH Bhiwandi 2015 will create conducive business environment, generate business ideas and create investment opportunities in Indian markets. ITMACH Bhiwandi 2015, scheduled from December 17-19, 2015, will showcase a wide range of latest textile machinery and technology at Indian Corporation premises in Bhiwandi on the National Highway 3 at the fringe of India’s commercial capital Mumbai. The timing of the show is crucial as this is the first textile technology show in the country, after the much-awaited ITMA 2015. Over 125 exhibitors, primarily, machinery and technology providers from the post-spinning, weaving preparatory, weaving, dyeing, printing and processing as well as garmenting sectors are booking space in the show. With investment decisions expected to get finalised post-ITMA, ITMACH Bhiwandi 2015, will play the role of a catalyst. The show is expected to attract over 30,000 visitors from across the country. After the announcement of the event in August end, world class technology providers have confirmed their participation in ITMACH 2015. Few of the prominent machinery suppliers that have confirmed participation at ITMACH 2015 include: y Alidhra Textool y A.T.E. Enterprises y Darshana Trading Co. y Dynamic Autolooms y Grasim Industries (Birla Cellulose) y ITEMA Weaving y Luwa y Picanol y Prashant Gamatex
y y y y y y y
Perfect Equipments Skaat India Staubli Sheeza Impex Hasmukh Textile Manishaa Overseas Tatoom Sublimation
The exhibition is supported by leading industry associations including PDEXCIL, SASMIRA, SDC, China Textile Machinery Association. The exhibition has garnered the support of leading textile industry media. ITMACH 2015, covering an area of 10,000 square meters, will be hosted in a modern warehouse of Indian Corporation that will yet again be converted to a state-of-the-art exhibition facility. Being located on the Mumbai-Nashik Highway (NH-3) or Eastern Express highway, the exhibition boasts of easy connectivity and easy access. The venue is well connected by both the road and the rail networks. Bhiwandi is a growing textile zone and has been taking up rapid upgradation. Organisers Textile Excellence realised the urgency for these kinds of exhibitions last year, to support this sector in its competitive streak. This year marks as an encouraging follow-up to the last year to pump up and keep the ongoing progress on track. In addition, much like the previous year, local textile manufacturers associations of Bhiwandi and around have extended their cooperation and extensive support to make ITMACH 2015 a highly successful show.
MACHINERY CATEGORIES Spinning and Preparatory Winding and Texturing Weaving and Preparatory Knitting Hosiery, Embroidery and Braiding, Garmenting Dyeing, Printing, Processing and Finishing Quality Control, Logistic, Software & Recycling Equipment for Plant Operation and Services Colorants and Chemicals Research and Education
ITMA 2015 PRODUCT LAUNCH Rieter at the ITMA 2015 - more innovations
interthur â€“ In addition to the solutions already announced for complete systems, spinning preparation and end spinning process, Rieter is showing further innovative products at the ITMA 2015. These include a live demo of the SPIDERweb mill control system, the new EasyTop flats clothing system for the C 70 card, a technology element for processing polyester on the R 66 rotor spinning machineas well asring and compact spinning machines with VARIOspin. Rieter products have extremely long service lives. That applies equally to the machines as well as to their components. At the ITMA 2015, Rieter is presenting newly developed componentsand scope of servicesin Hall 2 on BoothA 106, in addition to a range of innovative machines. These ensure that the technically high level of a plant is also maintained long after purchase. That lowers costs and contributes to a consistently high quality of the yarns. SPIDERweb live demonstration: the complete spinning mill on the smartphone SPIDERweb is the only mill control system that collects, displays and analyses all relevant data from the spinning preparation through to all four spinning systems. The functional scope of the new Energy and Climate module is shown and explained by means of a live connection to a large modern rotor spinning mill. With the new Rieter App, the Cockpit module and the new Alert module can also be tested. The Cockpit module displays the entire spinning mill on a mobile smartphone. The Alert module sends brief information to smartphones when alarm limits are exceeded. The spinning mill is therefore constantly under control. SPIDERweb now also with Murata winder data Rieter and Murata Machinery, Ltd. will intensify their collaboration for the control systems SPIDERweb and Visual Manager+. Also with ring yarn, SPIDERweb thus presents the entire value chain from the fibre to the finished yarn. The process optimisation between ring spinning machine and winder is now possible.
Graf EasyTop for the C 70 Card The new Graf EasyTop for the C 70 card is a system for a rapid and cost-efficient replacement of flat clothings. The innovative mounting of the flat clothings with high-energy magnets significantly reduces the working time required for replacement. Assembly of the Graf EasyTop is carried out manually in the shortest time without using a machine or special tools. The simple exchange greatly reduces the operating and service costs. CHANNELpass for the R 66 Rotor Spinning Machine At the ITMA, Rieter is exhibiting the new R 66 rotor spinning machine. Core of the R 66 is the S 66 spin box with a new technology element, the replaceable CHANNELpass. This allows an additional adjustment to the raw material and therefore a further optimisation of the yarn tenacity and nep rate. At the ITMA, Rieter is showing the variants for spinning cotton and viscose as well as a prototype for spinning polyester. The market launch of the version for polyester will take place in 2016 in collaboration with customers, so that the effect of the new technology part on various polyester fibres can be thoroughly tested. VARIOspin for ring and compact spinning machines VARIOspinseamlessly links the ring and compact spinning technology of Rieter with the experience of Amslertex in the manufacture of fancy yarns. All functions are synchronised and enable the cost-efficient spinning of fancy yarns with the accustomed Rieter and Amsler quality.A variety of effect designs can easily be programmed and produced, regardless of whether for coarse or fine yarn. With the VARIOspin, the manufacture of negative effects is also possible. Intentional long thin places are created that are finer than the basic yarn count. The optical appearance of this effect is particularly attractive with knitted garments. Detailed information on the innovations at the ITMA 2015 is attached and can also be found on the pages of the Business Groups under www.rieter.com.
MARKET REPORT PANIPAT Cluster Panipat majorly make Blankets. Winter season market production started, 25% price hiked due to large demand. Blanket peak season is from Oct to January ( Production Side) , after that weavers make garments from same machine. Handloom weaved Blankets now not only woven by Powerloom, but also with modern automated machine & Circular knitting machines. By Circular knitting ; polar blanket, mink blanket, fleece blanket are made. Government supply for Military, Railway, hospitals higher quality wool used, for which selling price is Rs. 400/ Kg. For regular, po-
lar blanket polyester, viscose yarn sells at Rs. 175 / Kg. Few manufacturer import used, rugged sweaters, blanket from other countries, they cut the fabric, make a regenerated fibers from it, which can be converted to shoddy blanket which is cheap and inferior in quality, this blanket sells at Rs. 100 / Kg.
MARKET REPORT Smile back in Malegaon after recession of over nine months Mr. Aleem Faizee
alegaon: In a timely relief to the Malegaon textile cluster, reeling under recession since January 2015, the National Green Tribunal (NGT) in its judgment delivered on November 04, 2015, has given conditional permission to restart the textile processing units in Pali, Balotra and the surrounding areas provided they comply with the guidelines of the tribunal and the state pollution control board. Though it will take another two weeks or so before the situation comes back to normal, the judgment, coming few days ahead of Diwali, has brought back the smile on the faces of yarn traders, weavers and grey cloth merchants, who had a gloomy festive season including Eid, Bakra Eid and Dassehra in Malegaon. “The monitoring committee headed by the district collector will meet after Diwali vacation for the assessment of the textile processing units. As per the judgment of the National Green Tribunal (NGT), the units fulfilling the condition as laid down in the judgment will be given permission to re-start industrial operation, provided they have also deposited the security money”, Rakesh Dhingra, Asst. Environmental Engineer Balotra, said while talking to Textile Value Chain. The National Green Tribunal’s (NGT) circuit bench of Jodhpur had ordered the closure of about 739 textile processing units in Pali, Balotra, and their surrounding areas of Jasol and Bithuja because of non-compliance of the environmental norms. The tribunal had also ordered the trust operating the Common Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP) to renew the Consent to Operate the plant and obtain the hazardous waste disposal authorization from the Rajasthan State Pollution Control Board. Dhingra said assessment of all textile processing units in one go is not possible, yet the board is trying its best to complete the procedure as early as possible. “Things are expected to come to normal by the month end or maximum by the first week of December”, he added.
Losses and burden Malegaon, the second largest textile cluster after Bhiwandi in Maharashtra, was already under recession due to market slowdown at the international level. But, after the textile processing units in Rajasthan were closed following the court order, the situation reached to such a level that power loom units in Malegaon were forced to run only for 3-4 days in a week. “The industry incurred a turnover loss of more than 35% because of the slowdown”, Amol Tapadiya, a leading yarn trader, said. “I never came across such a situation in last fifteen years”, he added. Malegaon has about 2,50,000 power looms manufacturing roughly about 02 crore meters of grey cloth per day. It comprised of 60% cotton grey cloth, 35% synthetic and 05% color saris and lungis, employing directly or indirectly a population of about 6.5 lakh people. Besides widespread unemployment, the recession has left many weavers and grey cloth merchants bankrupt. “Considering an average cost of the grey cloth manufactured in the city as Rs.15 per meter, closing down the power loom unit for
one day means a production loss of 30 crore rupees. And, weavers are running their units for 3-4 days in a week since January. From this one can judge what a huge loss the industry must have incurred”, Hastimal Vadera of Mahalaxmi Textile Traders (MTT) said.
Silver lining Notwithstanding the huge losses the industry incurred due to the prolonged recession mainly because of the closure of textile processing units in Rajasthan, it pushed the stakeholders to look for other means and alternative so that the situation is not repeated in future. “Currently, more than 95% of cotton grey cloth fabrics manufactured in Malegaon go to processing units in Pali, Balotra and the surrounding areas. The industry does not have any other alternatives for absorption of their finished produce. It is high time Malegaon adapts to latest technologies and modern machines to open the doors of direct export and other viable options”, Amol Tapadia said. Amol also said that besides modern machines to manufacture export quality fabrics, the city also needed yarn spinning mills in and around so that the cost of raw material is checked. “In clusters like Ichalkiranji we have the best example. It has about 26 spinning mills in and around the city and it helps the cluster a lot for its survival in the highly competitive market, especially in the time of crisis”, he said. What makes Amol’s advice more important is the fact that Malegaon right now has just one spinning mills, under co-operative sector, and two privately owned textile process units. Whereas, looking at the local demand the city at least needs 100 processing units and 10 spinning mills. “This is not a big deal if someone starts working in this direction. Malegaon has sufficient availability of suitable water, and also has enough supply of raw cotton in the surrounding areas”, Hastimal Vadera said. True to the suggestions and advices mooted by Vadera and Tapadia, the Malegaon Industries & Manufacturers Association (MIMA) has already started working in this direction. “Construction work of up-to-date factory sheds to install around 324 rapier, shuttle-less and modern imported power looms are about to complete in the MIDC area of Malegaon. Simultaneously, a Common Facility Centre (CFC) with modern sizing and processing unit is about to commence operation nearby”, Nehal Ansari, one of the founder members of Malegaon Industries & Manufacturers Association (MIMA), said. He also said that MIMA is also coordinating with the local Power loom Service Centre (PSC) for the functioning of a readymade garment and embroidery training centre funded by Ministry of Textiles so that a trained workforce is developed for the apparel park which MIMA intends to establish in the city. “We are working consistently and in the right direction, and are sure that Malegaon will play a major role in the country’s textile sector in coming days”, he said. [The writer, Aleem Faizee, is Founder-Editor of http://ummid. com – a news portal]
MARKET REPORT SURAT REPORT Next FY 2016-17 budget, for benefits of powerloom sector,Federation of art silk and weaving industries ( FASWI) Chairman Mr.ArunJariwala prepared draft to change in policy.association had put forward their point to government: y Import of synthetic fabric custom duty needs to be 30 % .From quite some time import of fabric has increased from China, Taiwan etc. Import seen demand more than local fabrics, local weavers are really facing big trouble, which is dangerous for income of labour class. Considering this , association requested government to increase custom duty from 10 % to 30% to save local industry. y MMF ( Man madefibers) industry going through bad face. MMF fiber excise duty should reduce from 12 % to 4%. If duty reduces, production will increase, which result in more exports. y Indian powerloomindustry wanted to use updated technology, but tax is major hurdle. For Textile machinery spare parts, requested for reduce the custom duty & excise duty. y For raw silk yarn, anti-dumping duty needs to be reduced. China’s import fabric quality 3A grade requested to reduce anti dumping duty, if this all majors taken, production will boom and export will be increased. y Textile traders should get income tax limit upto 4 crores, which will increase the more job opportunity. Under 44AD, uptocrore is 8% tax, it should be reduce to 4%.
Silk city Surat increasing textile business day by day, so surat also should have textile commissioner office. Yarn, weaving, processing side skilled labour training institute needs to be operated from surat. University required in Surat , course syllabus should contain Yarn , fabric new technology, innovation which is sink with industry. Suratneed proper Air connectivity, Air Cargo etc. due to poor connectivity, surat business affected. For Indian TextilePowerloom fabrics International level exports promotion is required. Traders should get lending Finance at low interest rate, export subsidy, economic crime should be under IPC act. Surat produces daily 4 crore meter of fabrics, for utilisation of this fabric, proper organised garment industry should be developed in Surat. Those who are paying Service tax, Pension and Accident Policy needed, stated by FOSTA. Textile traders will now register themselves in Micro, Small & Medium Enterprises ( MSME), Surat traders can register online or offline, which will have huge benefits to surat traders. Registered Traders will get loans, benefits of textile policy etc. In surat thousands of traders are doing business. In surat only more than 40 textile markets developing, which will even increase more traders in surat. Traders also should get the benefits of MSME demanded by association to MSME official Mr.KalrajSingh ,Mr.Giriraj Singh also IDIAX’s Mr.Rupwant Singh.
y y y y
FOSTA , given many suggestion for next budget, TUFS benefits only getting for textile machinery up gradation, but research for textile Fabrics , new development in processing, traders should also get TUFS benefits.
Ichalkaranji Report Textile Friends visited Ichalkaranji on 16th October, 2015, 2nd Field visit to understand the market dynamics. Group have following members : Mr. Suresh Kotak from Kotak Commodities ; Mr. M.L. Jhunjunwala from RSWM; Mr. Sharad Tandon from Stadon consulting ; Mr. Shiv Kanodia from Bharat Merchant Chamber; Mr. Manish Daga from COTTON GURU ; Ms. Jigna Shah from Textile Value Chain Media. • • • • • •
Objective of the group to understand the problems of the industry, hear their voice, give report to Textile Commissioner & as industry well wisher help them to grow in industry. We met few industry stalwarts for understanding the realities.
process house required in ichalkaranji Currently 68 process houses, most of them are outdated. To start with, need process house of 1 L mts/day • •
What is Required:
First company met was M/S. Su-Parshwa Group, with MD Mr. His inputs are for the cluster : No demand in market. Power subsidy at Rs. 3-4/kg. • Power cost Rs. 3.50-4/unit • Gujarat Rs. 7-8/unit • Ex minister Prakash Awade very helpful to weaving industry in Ichalkaranji.
TUF subsidy stopped was very helpful when upto 30 % 24 mts 1997, 24 2014 picanol m/cs (AirJet, 16 Rapier) Sell grey fabric to Ahmedabad, Delhi, Kolkata. Both sale purchase and job work 80 % job work. Max 40x40 60x60 Production : Avg 50 x 50 pick, 7 lakh meters/ month Export: negligible •
y y y
5-7000 airjet, rapier • Plain: 1.25 L • 1000 Airjet in pipeline Local weavers do not know what happens to their grey fabric. Awareness seminar for export through promotion council Quality standards for export competiveness
2. Baldev Textile Mills (P) Ltd/ Ankitji Sonthalia y y y y y
Brand NR dhoti Finance/Production Ram Purohit Local manufacturer not aware about market trends, depending on agents and for daily inquiries. Need a process house. Good process houses are making profits. Main reason for Ahmadabad is processing facility
• Processing charges in Ichalkaranji for piece dyeing (fabric): Rs. 70 + % (ETP Charges) • y y y y y
For Ahmadabad = Rs. 60/kg Conclusion: quality and consistency advantage in Ahmadabad. Power: Rs. 2.83/unit Export: Timely delivery is challenge. Cycle is 90 days. Job realization: 13 to 14 paisa/pick, cost 12 to 13 paisa/PICKS Ram Purohit: No awareness about SIDBI scheme in make in India of finance to SSI’s @ 8.5 to 9 %. Need to verify.
Reduction in cost of finance and hence production.
Market capitalization and diversification by innovation.
y y y
Ambrish Sarda Group: TUFS: From 1st October subsidy reduced from 30% to 15 % Maharashtra Govt: State subsidy of 25% is closed from 2011 Need: product development and market development. DKTE:
1. Jhunjhunwalaji: Change yourself as per customers’ requirement/demand. Markets have bottomed out cotton & PET have bottomed out due to MSP and petroleum prices. Weaver: How do we compete against mills who are themselves weavers? If yarn prices fall, cloth is bound to fall. Solution? 80 % of people doing job work. Product change is challenge 2. Shiv Kanodia: Understand your USP. We are masters of small quantity as an exclusive / premium product. Have surpassed turnover of last 6 years in this year? Standardize job work on basis of quality & cost. 3.Sureshbhai: Bayer crop science. Taking premium of 20 cents in fibre maximum. 4.Jigna: cluster branding. DKTE can play a very important role. Ichalkaranji; Annual turnover 8000 Cr.
ITMA 2015 PRODUCT LAUNCH Geratex introducing first-of-its-kind textile fabric processing technology at ITMA is also lessened considerably. y y y y
Technology helps reduce around 20-30 percent of chemicals Achieves 25-35 percent in water savings Delivers 30-35 percent in energy savings Compact size helps save space up to 60 percent
Geratex Machinery Pvt Ltd from India is launching and introducing a first-of-its-kind, innovative and sustainable textile fabric processing machine to process fabrics, whether mercerizing, bleaching, desizing or washing at ITMA 2015 in hall 3, stand F-124. Using Ultra Sonic technology on industrial size washing machines, the Geratex fabric washer offers higher efficiency in terms of space, energy usage and also chemicals and water consumption. The Ultra Sonic technology can even be retrofitted into existing fabric processing machines to achieve comprehensive savings. As per actual production trials, the machine helps save around 20-30 percent of chemicals, delivers 25-35 percent water savings and 30-35 percent in energy savings with the biggest advantage accruing from its compact size and helping save space up to 60 percent. The Ultra Sonic waves accelerate the water molecules in the bath, which move practically at the speed of sound or several thousand times in a second, thereby creating a turbulent effect in the machine and achieving the whole process in half the time taken by existing technologies. While desizing, the Ultra Sonic washing technology completely does away with wetting agents and the amount of chemicals used is reduced by 30 percent, due to which volume of water consumed
On the Tegewa scale of 1-10, a measurement tool to calculate the efficiency of washing, the conventional technology scores between 4 and 6 points after desize washing, while the Ultra Sonic technology achieves between 7 and 8 points. For the bleaching process also, the innovative technology consumes 30 percent less chemicals and delivers the desired bleaching effect in 50 percent of time as against conventional machines. Results are equally good for post-dyeing washing also. In case of mercerising of fabrics, while conventional technologies consume 300-320 gms per litres of caustic soda, the Ultra Sonic technology uses just 200-220 grams per litres, while delivering equivalent results. Water is heated to a temperature of 95 degree centigrade before washing in existing technologies, while the water needs to be heated up to just 65 degree centigrade, which results in high energy savings in case of the Ultra Sonic technology. Additionally, when treating functional fabrics with anti-bacterial or flame-resistant properties, the turbulent effect created by the technology helps chemicals penetrate deeper in to the fabric which help the fabrics retain the functionalities longer. Despite, being a new technology, cost of installing the technology will be down by 40 percent when compared with conventional fabric washers as the cost of the new technology is lower, requires smaller related ancillaries like boilers, electrical power, etc and finally uses very less space.
December 2015 21-23 14-17
YFA TRADE SHOW 2015 Place : Okhla/ New Delhi, info: www.yfatradeshow.com
May 2016 6-8
TECHNOTEX 2016 Place : Mumbai/ India,
TMACH BHIWANDI - 2015 Place:Bhiwandi/ Thane,
SCREEN PRINT INDIA 2016 Place : Mumbai/ India, info : spi2016.screenprintindia.com
info : www.itmach.com
Textile Trade Fair in Jetpur Place : Jetpur/ Gujarat, info: email@example.com
January 2016 22-25
UDYOG 2016 Place : Surat/ Gujarat ,
ITF MUMBAI Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.internationaltextilefair.com
June 2016 31st -2 june
MayHometex 2016 Place : Banglore/ India, info: www.homtex.in
NONWOVEN TECH ASIA Pla : Mumbai/India,
info : www.udyog.sgcci.in
National Garment Fair Place : Mumbai/ India, info : www.cmai.in
Feb 2016 7-9
July 2016 1-3
TEMTECH Place: Bhilwara/ Rajasthan,
HGH INDIA 2016 Place : Mumbai/ India, info : www.hghindia.com
March 2016 4-6
F & A show Place : Banglore/ India, info: www.fnashow.in
October 2016 21-25
Colombo International Yarn & Fabric Show Place : Colombo/ Sri Lanka, info: http://www.cems-yarnandfabric.com/cifs/
INDIATEX Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.textileassociationindia.com
April 2016 16-17
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2016 Place : Shanghai/ China, info : www.itmaasia.com
11-13 Filtech 2016 Place : Cologne/ Germany, info : www.filtech.de
December 2016 3-8
ITF â€“ DUBAI Place : Dubai/ UAE, info: www.internationaltextilefair.com
Fashion Connect Place : Banglore/ India,
INDIA ITME 2016 Place: Mumbai/ India, info: www.india-itme.com
RE SHAPING TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Patco Exports Pvt. Ltd., Mr.Deepak Gajjar
Manufacturers of Spare Parts for Spinning, Weaving, Processing & Testing Machines and dealers in Chains, Bearings, Gears and Sprockets
Patco Exports Pvt. Ltd., 2/B-5, VIVINA Building,Super Shopping Centre,S.V. Road, Andheri (West),Mumbai-400 058. Fax: (022)2620 6379 Email : firstname.lastname@example.org
Hall : H1 Stall : G119
Dyeing Technology at its Best
High Quality Colouring
Environmentally Friendly Process
Fully automated H.T.H.P. Dyeing Machines SEVEN MAIN REASONS TO BUY A DALAL MACHINE
STANDARD FEATURES • Eco-friendly Airpad system
Reduces consumption of water, steam, electricity and c hemicals
• German Engineering & Design - Very Sturdy and long life
• V ariable Frequency Drive
• Turbo pump ideally suited for dyeing applications - Vibration & Noise free with optimum output using minimum power
• Adjustable Liquor Ratio
• Problem free automation accepted by leading Textile Manufacturing Groups
Reduces power peaks, allows automatic stepless speed control Enables selection of minimum MLR for full/partial load during dyeing and ultra low MLR for subsequent washing
• Safety Systems
Temperature and pressure interlock Auto pressure control valve Mechanical pre-set pressure safety valve Main pump protection against dry run Int erlocking of ‘Heating ON’ / main pump motor
• Easy availability of spares and services at reasonable prices
• Machines are tailor made to suit customer's requirements with regard to space availability and other specifications • Machines have more safety features than any other manufacturers • Finally for a 'Proud Indian' a 'Made in India' product of international standards
DALAL ENGINEERING PVT LTD
Website : www.dalalengineering.com R EGISTE RED OFFICE : 36/37 Jolly Maker Chambers II, Nariman Point, Mumbai 400 021 Tel. 91 22 2202 4046, 2285 0516 Fax. 91 22 2202 9278 Email : email@example.com
WORKS : Kavesar, Thane-Ghodbunder Road Thane 400 615, Maharashtra, India Tel. 91 22 2597 6201-04 Fax. 91 22 2597 6207 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707, Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai. Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 17/18 of month
COVER STORY : SUSTAINABLE TECHNOLOGY : NEED OF AN HOUR