Non Woven & Technical Textile Growth in India Interviews : Mr. Mohan Kavrie, Supreme Group Mr. Narendra Pokharan, VMS International Mr. Rajkumar Agarwal, SVG Fashions
NON WOVEN MEDICAL TEXTILES
NON WOVEN FABRIC
NON WOVEN FILTER FABRIC
NON WOVEN AGRICULTURAL TEXTILES
NON WOVEN BAGS
Brand Updates:Raymond & Arvind Market Report: Yarn & Surat Technical Article: Plasma Technology in Finishing
NON WOVEN AUTOMOTIVE
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INDIA'S LEADING NONWOVENS MANUFACTURER AUTOTECH Nonwovens is a leading manufacturer of nonwoven fabrics for the Filtration and Automotive industry globally. Located in India on the Delhi-Mumbai Industrial Corridor (DMIC), AUTOTECH's facility is 40 km north of Surat and in close proximity of the industrial hubs of Gujarat and Maharashtra with excellent sea-port connectivity. AUTOTECH Nonwovens aims to meet stringent quality standards of nonwovens users globally within Filtration, Automotive as well as other Industrial users. AUTOTECH has in place a state-of-the-art needlepunch nonwovens line from Europe. This is one-of-its-kind specially designed line for the filtration and automotive segment. We intend to target markets in Automotive, Filtration and other tailored products. We have the ability to manufacture fabrics from the range of 70 gsm to 800 gsm in a range of fiber types and deniers - on both our present and new line. This line is well supported with peripheral machinery and an advanced R&D laboratory to provide end-to-end solutions to our customers.
Autotech Nonwovens Pvt. Ltd. D/1003, Pratishtha Towers, Ghod-Dod Road, 395001 Surat
Phone: +91 971283 7783 | E-Mail: email@example.com www.textilevaluechain.com
TEXTILE SOURCING SHOW IN SOUTH ASIA
9 10 December 2017
Venue: The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India
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PRODUCT CATEGORIES Fiber Yarn Suiting & Shirting Fabrics Ladies Wear & Dress Materials Knits Denim Home Textiles & Sheeting Fashion Fabrics Khadi & Handlooms Sustainable & Eco Textiles SPACE BOOKING: Arvind Semlani : +91 9833977743 Email: info@ITMACH.com Radhika Boddu : +91 9867127598 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Bhavesh Thakar : +91 9375322449 Email: email@example.com ORGANIZERS
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International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens
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Nonwoven / Technical Textiles got 12% of GST...
on Woven generally categorised as compressed fabric for commodity and technical use in many industries. But this sector is still not developed and CAGR is very slow as compare to conventional textiles. Is Indian consumer really knows the difference between Non Woven’s or Paper or Technical textiles? Non Woven’s commodity usage as FMCG products like Sanitary Napkins, Diapers, tissues, bags etc.,is still low as many Indian consumer still live in below poverty line, where they can’t afford to use the “ Use and Throw Products” and lifestyle of Indian consumer don’t permit to use this products in their daily life. Industrial use of non woven’s in Medical, Agriculture, Packaging sector with and without technical specification. Automobile sector mainly use technical non wovens. So non woven industry in for everyone and not for everyone. There is a huge demand supply gap in this sector which can’t be fulfilled by more manufacture but by more consumers...!! Most Awaited GST is finally announced by Mr. Arun Jaitely, Finance Minister of India. Finally Indian Tax structure system will change and it will now at par with globe countries. After so much hue and cry from various association and industry our new Textile Minister, Mrs. Smriti Irani has consider the pain of the textile industry contributors and set nominal GST rates for each value chain segment. With long value chain from fibre to garment with natural and synthetic fibres, it is difficult to have a different tax structure, still our ministry managed somehow. Few highlights: • To save & promote natural fibre like Jute , wool ,silk, coconut coir have exempted from GST, though yarns & Fabrics of same fibres attracted 5% GST. Khadi Yarn (coarser fibre) also exempted from GST. Other Vegetable fibre like flax, hemp, paper yarn imposed by 5% GST. • Cotton attracted 5% GST on Cotton fibres, Yarns & Fabrics. • Man made Filament like nylon, polyester, acrylic, viscose rayon, Cuprammonium & & man made staple fibres attracted 18% GST. But Fabrics made out of these fibres have 5% GST. • Non Woven & Felt, Wadding, Technical Textile, Carpets attracted 12% of GST • Special fabrics like embroidery, lace ,trimming, tapestries, coated, laminated fabrics have 5% & 12% GST • Knitted fabrics 5% GST • Final Value chain segment Apparels & clothing accessories has twist with Price game. Price of each garment determine the % of GST tax, more than Rs. 1000 / Pc has 12% , Less than Rs. 1000 has 5%. • Home Textile, made ups, rags, worn textile articles have 5% & 12% GST rate.
Over all Textile industry have got good tax structure scheme as expected. Now implementation is big challenge for Indian business owners, hope new tax structure will give rise to new India..!!! Wish you happy Business..!!!
Ms. Jigna Shah
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CONTENT 12- GST NEWS 13- NEWS 46- Association News : SAG COVER STORY: Non Woven & Technical Textile Growth in India...
May 2017 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha T.
Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : firstname.lastname@example.org Tel : +91-9818026572
14- Nonwovens- Unexplored Opportunities By Mr. Avinash Mayekar, Suvin Advisor 16- Opportunities& Challenges in Technical Textile Industry by Mr. Sumit Parmar, Wazir Advisors 17- Recycled Raw Materials gain recognition in Technical Textiles by Mrs. Suman D. Mundkur & Dr. Ela M. Dedhia 19- Interview with Mr. Narendra Pokharan, VMS International 20- Non Woven in Agriculture by K’s Technical And Management Consultants, 21- A Brief Analysis Of Performance Textiles- Anti Bactria, 3 X Dry And C Change Type By Ravishankar 24- Environmental Geo Technique by Mr. V.K. Patil, BTRA 26- Interview with Mr. Mohan Kavrie, MD of Supreme Group 28- COE- Sportech & its Relevance by WRA Scientist 30- Speech by Mr. Rajkumar Agarwal, MD SVG Fashions during Global Sports Show, Mumbai 32- Interview with Mr. Rajkumar Agarwal, MD of SVG Fashions Limited. 34- 3rd Defence ITTA Joint Seminar & Exhibition on Technical Textiles
POST EVENT REPORT 38- Technical Textile Seminar cum Buyer- Seller Meet, New Delhi 40- Opportunities in the current challenges in Weaving Sector by TAI
TECHNICAL ARTICLE 42- Plasma Technology in Dyeing & Finishing of Synthetic Textile
BRAND UPDATE 48- Khadi by Raymond – India’s First branded khadi label 50- Arvind Ltd. Showcases Sustainable Clothing Collection
MARKET REPORT 51- Yarn Export Watch Report by YNFX 53- Surat Report 54- SHOW CALENDAR
Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond Front Inside: Raysil Back Inside: Neelkanth Packaging Page 3: Autotech Non Woven Page 4 : ITS Page 5 : SGS Innovation Page 6: RSWM Page 7 : Techtexil Page 9: DN Associates Page 10 : SVG Fashions
Page 55 : Srivari Industries + Oripol Industries Page 56: SKBS Page 57: TEXFAIR Page 58: Deep Textiles Page 59: Vrunda Enterprise Page 60: Sanjay Plastic Page 61: ITMACH Page 62 : Quantachrome Instruments
5% GST rates for cotton textiles very progressive and growth oriented – Chairman , TEXPROCIL TEXPROCIL welcomes rate of 5% for yarn & cotton fabrics and thanks Hon’ble Minister of Finance for accepting the Council’s Suggestion
he GST Council , in its meeting held on June 3, 2017, has classified yarn and cotton fabrics under 5% category of GST. “The rate of 5% for cotton textiles is very progressive and will lead to the growth and development of the entire value chain”, said ShriUjwalLahoti, Chairman of The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council ( TEXPROCIL). Texprocil welcomes the rate of 5% for yarn & FABRICS and thanks the Honb’le
MINISTER for Finance for accepting the Council’s suggestion for keeping the rates low in order to ensure compliance & encourage the farmers to grow more COTTON. He also thanked the HONB’LE MINISTER OF TEXTILES for extending her unstinted support to get low rate of 5%for the COTTON TEXTILES SECTOR. These low rates will not cast any additional burden on the sector & will ensure that INDIA regains it’s competitiveness in the TEXTILES SECTOR IN World markets. ShriUjwalLahoti Chairman Texprocil also requested the Government to announce DRAW BACK RATES to take into account
the unrebated Duties under GST & continue the ROSL SCHEME for Made UPS & also extend it to Fabrics & Yarn .
The GST rate for textiles will eliminate the cascading effect of duty/taxes which will reduce the costs and improve the competitiveness of the textiles exports , according to the Chairman , TEXPROCIL. ShriLahoti urged the Government to ensure speedy refund of Input Tax Credits on exports so that exporter’s funds does not get blocked.
SIMA hails GST rates announced for textile industry
he predominantly cotton based textile industry, the second largest employment provider and meeting the clothing needs of people and fetching sizable export earnings, has been pleading the Central Government to classify cotton textiles under 5% GST rate. In today’s announcement made by Hon’ble Union Finance Minister, all natural fibres including cotton, cotton yarn, fabrics and readymade garments valued below Rs.1000/have been classified under 5% GST rate & garments valued above Rs.1000/- has been classified under 12% GST rate; the synthetic or manmade fibres and synthetic yarn have been classified under 18% GST rate; the fabric irrespective of fibre has been classified under 5% GST rate.
In a press release issued here today, Mr.M.Senthilkumar, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has highly appreciated and thanked the concerted and constant efforts made by the Hon’ble Union Textile Minister, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani for fully understand-
ing the needs of the industry and persuading the Hon’ble Finance Minister and Hon’ble Prime Minister to classify the entire cotton textile value chain under 5% GST rate. He has also thanked the Hon’ble Union Finance Minister and the officials of the Ministry of Finance for favourably considering the request of the cotton textile industry. He has also thanked the Hon’ble Chief Ministers of all the State governments, especially the Southern States for strongly recommending for 5% GST rate and ultimately achieving the same. Mr.Senthilkumar has stated that as the textile industry has been under the optional route since 2004 and the fabrics have been under zero VAT rate, the 5% GST rate would bring substantial revenue apart from widely broad basing the tax net across the textile value chain and ensuring compliance. He has also stated that 5% GST rate on readymade garments below Rs.1000/- would greatly benefit the common man across the country, being the mass consumption
item. SIMA chief has stated that 5% GST rate on cotton fibre would sustain the competitiveness of over 20 million cotton farmers as this rate across the value chain would enable the cotton textile industry to remain globally competitive, achieve substantial growth rate and increase cotton fibre consumption and thereby increase the earnings of the farmers. Mr.Senthilkumar has hoped that the textile job work would be exempted from service tax which is essential to benefit the predominantly decentralized and MSME nature of the industry especially the powerloom sector, knitting, processing and garmenting sectors. Mr.Senthilkumar has stated that 18% GST rate levied on manmade fibre and synthetic yarn would have inverted duty structure problem as the fabric would attract only 5% GST rate.
EcoVero™ fibers – new industry standard in eco-friendly viscose EcoVero™ TM branded viscose fibers achieve the next milestone in Lenzing’s sustainability journey by offering ecofriendly viscose with the lowest environmental impact in the industry1 - setting the new industry wide benchmark in the sustainability of viscose fibers. Rising consumer awareness of environmental awareness The environmental awareness of consumers has been growing steadily over the last decade, more recently in the fashion and textile industry. Textile consumption is expected to double by 2025, and the industry is anxiously looking for more sustainable solutions with minimal eco-footprint. Achieving low environmental impact requires developing ecofriendly raw materials and a sustainable manufacturing process. Lenzing addresses this unmet market need for more sustainable viscose by launching EcoVeroTM fibers that set a new industry standard in sustainable viscose based on three pillars: the use of sustainable wood sources (FSC® or PEFC® certified), an ecological production process (significantly lower emissions and water impact than conventional viscose), and full supply chain transparency by identifying EcoVeroTM fibers in the final product. EcoVero™ ffibers – use of sustainable wood sources
EcoVero™ fibers are made from wood, a natural and renewable raw material. The wood comes from sustainable forestry plantations that are certified by industryleading associations such as FSC®. Lenzing has a comprehensive wood sourcing policy that goes above and beyond the call of duty to ensure that the most sustainable wood sources are used for viscose production. EcoVero™ fibers – significantly lower emissions and water impact than conventional viscose Lenzing enforces strict environmental standards during viscose production and has invested millions over the years to achieve eco-friendly production process. For example, Lenzing’s viscose production sites where EcoVero™ fibers are produced comply with the stringent guidelines of the EU Eco Label, a world-leading environmental manufacturing standard. The EU Eco Label is a sign of environmental excellence and is awarded to products and services meeting high environmental standards throughout their lifecycles: from raw material extraction to production, distribution and disposal. In addition, the flagship viscose production in Austria uses a significant amount of renewable bio-energy in the manufacturing process. EcoVero™ f fibers – full supply chain transparency
With EcoVero™ fibers, Lenzing launches one of the most environmentally friendly viscose fibers. A special manufacturing system enables us to identify EcoVera™ fibers in the final product, long after the textile processing and conversion steps. Thus, retailers and brands are fully assured that they are indeed incorporating the eco-friendly viscose, and not a generic market viscose. “With this special identification technology for EcoVero™ fibers, we are supporting the trend in the fashion industry towards greater transparency. It is becoming increasingly important to know where the products come from and which path they have covered,” Robert van de Kerkhof, Chief Commercial Officer, explains. Marketing Service for EcoVero™ fibers EcoVero™ fibers, our next milestone in Lenzing’s sustainability journey, offer an extensive marketing service package and are part of Lenzing’s Branding & Licensing Program. Fabrics containing EcoVero™ fibers can be certified at our in-house certification centers in Europe and Asia. Launch of EcoVero™ fibers in autumn 2017 The new EcoVero™ fibers will be launched at the global textile trade shows from autumn on. Right now the sampling phase has started and special customers are developing products using EcoVero™ fibers.
VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies extends support for Techtextil India’s entry into garment machinery segment •
Leading in apparel exports, India offers big market for textile and garment machinery • Technology-leading brands on board for the launch of Texprocess Pavilion in India
garment and textiles industry in India.
As Techtextil India gears up to expand its scope into the garment machinery segment through an exclusive Texprocess Pavilion this year, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies has come forward to announce its support for this much-awaited launch. The support exemplifies the immense potential for trade and technology transfer between Indian and German companies - targeting the growing demand and manufacturing focus of the
“With India being one of the largest producers of garments worldwide, the demand for automation solutions is increasing,” said Mr Elgar Straub, Managing Director of VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies. “But the market for technical textiles is also growing steadily in India and thus is the demand for processing technologies. The Texprocess Pavilion at Techtextil India is the ideal platform for German and European manufacturers of garment machinery and machines for the processing of technical textiles to present their technology solutions to the Indian market.”
Nonwovens- Unexplored Opportunities
Needle punched Nonwovens & Applications
ndia has made its big name after China in global market, however due to ever increasing demands from brands, continuously rising raw material prices & operating cost there is always a constant pressure for earninghigherprofits. India has made its good name in textile world particularly in yarn & apparel business. It is a known fact that conventional textile process is lengthy, has huge competition & hence nonwoven technologies should come to rescue Indian textile industry to create a new portfolio &fresh products basket. Modernization has turned the tides from conventional textiles to technical textiles. Textiles are no longer just apparels used for covering & protection but have evolved into high performance delivering products. They have become part & parcel of one’s daily routine, present everywhere from the automobiles, households, buildings, hospitals, environment protection, sports, agriculture & event to the underground usage providing high comfort.
Needle punching is the oldest method of producing nonwoven fabric. It involves mechanically binding a web to form a fabric by penetrating the web with an array of barbed needles that carry tufts of the web’s own fibers in a vertical direction through the web. They find applications in specialized areas because of their characteristics like high water permeability, high abrasion resistance& ability to attach layers of different type of fiber webs to form composites. Needle punching is an eco-friendly technology& its estimated global share is around 12%. The various end products developed through needle punched technology are as follows:
The main reason for rising demands of these highly engineered products is growing awareness of hygiene& protection, health & fitness, world class infrastructure&fascination towards leisure activities, adventure sports etc. The products like wet wipes, home textiles, travel kits, air bags, high end sports textiles and disposableproducts like medical textiles have today become products of daily consumption.
• Automotive: They are used in around 40 parts of automotive. Considering India’s huge automotive market which is estimated to grow with CAGR of 13%, nonwovens consumption is going to grow exponentially.
All these products are classic outputs of nonwoven technologies. Nonwoven technologies are compact technologies that produce complex and highly engineered products giving much higher production. As the process of these technologies is very short, the utility consumption will be much lower & further due to mass productions, the operating costs will be minimal. Moreover,the quality of product remains uncompromised as there is hardly any involvement of human beings.
• Geotextiles: Geosynthetics is another segments where there are tremendous investments opportunities considering increasing growth in infrastructure & real estate in India as well as worldwide.
Major Nonwoven technologies are needle-punched, spunlace & spunbond. Their consumption is growing rapidly in India because of their increasing industrial as well as household applications on day to day basis.Nonwoven market is expected to reach USD 45,363million by 2019, growing at a CAGR of 6.7% from 2013 to 2019
• Filtration: Nonwoven materials used in filtration applications are an important part of the worldwide nonwoven industry. •
Industrial Wipes: Industrial wipes are used for a variety of applications in industry • Felted carpets & floor covering: Indian export of felted carpets & textile floor coverings is around $67.31 Mn in 2014 which growing at the CAGR of 31%. This steep increase is due to huge exports to Malaysia. In fact Global demand for flooring and carpets is expected to grow. Spunlace Nonwovens & applications Spunlace technology facilitates highest flexibility and achieves much wider product range with most compact process. Global exports of spunlace nonwoven are steady over the year and
COVER STORY Conclusion:
expected to reach 1.95 Bn. USD at 2% CAGR by 2017.Global production of Spunlace Nonwovens is growing at an average of 9.5%. Indiaâ€™s exports of Spunlace Nonwovens are increasing at a CAGR of 4%, whereas imports have increased at a CAGR of 8% in last few years. Spunlace Nonwovens are used mainly for various low weight products by using natural fibers without deteriorating their physical properties. Spunlace Nonwovens are also used in roofing substrates, consumer wipes, cotton pads, surgical disposables, etc. Growing population & growing markets of beauty & hygiene products will certainly increase demand of spunlace nonwovens in India. Spunbond Nonwovens & Applications: In the spunbond technology, usually a thermoplastic fiber forming polymer is extruded to form fine filaments fibers of around 15â€“35 micrometer diameter. The filaments are attenuated & collected on a conveyor belt in the form of a web. The filaments in web are then bonded to make spunbond nonwoven fabric. They are used for durable and disposable applications. The main applications are in automobiles, civil engineering, hygiene, medical, packaging, and agriculture.
Despite such great demands for nonwovens, we are still stuck up with age old conventional textiles. For more than 100 years, we are catering to clothing needs of our own large population,its high time for us Indians, to think out of the box & switch over to unexploited segments like nonwovens &create a new road map for our industry. With abundant availability of raw materials from natural fibersto synthetics &highly skilled labor force at comparatively lower cost than other countries, we will surely be able to dominant this segments. However we must change our mind set & overcome our weak links inmarketing of products, timely delivery of products, consistency in quality of products & after sales service to the customers. We need to adopt new strategy & improvise onabove qualities to explore & reap high profits from this niche nonwoven segments. The Entrepreneurs can further reduce their overall capital cost by importing second hand plant from European countries. Due to high labour cost in EU such plants have shut down, but they are having sound technology& viability. By bringing these plants from EU countries, the overall capital cost will be reduced by around60%. Also as the plants are in ready conditions, less time will be required for the plant to be fully functional. This in turn will help in minimizing the pay-back period& will also be competitive with the new plants. Thus it is important for young Indian entrepreneurs, to take calculative risk & explore the various possibilities of investing in nonwoven markets as per their strengths & weakness. They need to do complete market research on what nonwovens are, what are their properties?How they are manufactured?What their applications are & most importantly what is a market potential? A proper analysis of above will help the entrepreneurs invest in the products that best suit their capabilities.
Application area & nonwoven technology matrix Needlepunched
Synthetic Leather Substrate yes
yes Mr. AvinAsh MAyekAr, MD & CeO suvin ADvisOrs Pvt LtD +91- 9322906199 www.suvininDiA.COM
Opportunities & Challenges in Technical Textile Industry
dustries focus on making automobiles more safe, consumption of airbags, seat belts and filters will also increase thus benefitting the technical textile industry of India.On a similar pattern, industries like construction, packaging, apparel and other allied industries have found extreme suitability in technical textile products instead of conventional products. The growing demand of technical textiles in the manufacturing sector reflects an extensive opportunity for the domestic technical textile industry.
echnical Textiles” is one of the fastest emerging industries across the world. Its innovative nature, versatility of its usage, efficiency and durability of its products and the cost effectiveness makes this industry successful. These attributes have helped technical textiles industry to gain popularity in the domestic market of India also. The market size of Indian technical textile industry stood at INR 92,499 crores in 2015- 16 registering a healthy growth of 12% (CAGR) over the last decade. However, this industry has a long way to go to realize its full potential in the Indian domestic market. This article illustrates the opportunities present for this sector which need to be capitalized immediately as well the challenges which need to be overcome. Vast Opportunities to be tapped
India is the fastest growing economy in the world registering an average GDP growth of 7.6% over the last decade. This factor when coupled with the high growth potential of technical textiles sector presents an array of opportunities which are detailed in the coming segments: • Growth in manufacturing sector Technical textile primarily finds usage in various manufacturing industries such as automobile, construction, aviation, etc. Manufacturing sector has been a pillar of growth for the Indian economy with many such industries registering double digit growth over the last decade. Automobile sector is expected to grow at 12% CAGR over the next decade to reach an estimated production of 75 million vehicles in 2025. This sector has multiple usages of technical textiles in the form of seat belts, airbags, tyre cord, upholstery, carpets, insulation felts etc. The durability and efficiency of these make them much suitable for use in automobiles and hence their usage has increased in this segment. With government and in-
Rising importance of healthcare& hygiene Over the last decade, the per capita income in India has doubled from US$ 730 in 2005 to US$ 1,580 in 2015. This increase in income has resulted in increasing spending power of people and the primary thing on which people are willing to spend is their health & hygiene. With the ever-growing danger of pollution and diseases in the country, people have become more concerned about their health. They are gradually shifting towards more hygienic and healthy ways of living which involves using products like wipes, face masks, diapers, dental floss, ear buds, sanitary napkins etc. All these products consume various technical textile item in different forms and due to increased usage of the end products, consumption of technical textiles has increased. The healthcare industry has grown at 11% CAGR between 2008 & 2016 to reach a level of US$ 110 bn. It is expected to attain a tremendous growth of ~23% (CAGR) to reach a level of US$200 bn. by 2020. Increasing coverage, services and expenditures by public and private players is the primary reason for this growth. Technical textiles are used extensively in the medical industry in the form of surgical dressings, disposable bed sheets, sutures, medical gowns and masks, artificial valves, artificial heart etc. In the coming years, as the general public and the medical industry becomes more
aware of the benefits of technical textiles, their consumption is bound to increase. • Increasing focus on Sports In the recent years, a surge in the sports culture has been witnessed in the country. The advent of multiple sports leagues in India such as IPL, IHL, ISL, Pro Kabbadi League etc. and a growing enthusiasm towards fitness has catalyzed the growth of sports. Nowadays, more and more people are going to the gym, schools are getting increasingly focused towards sports education, better sports infrastructure is being established and the government is also giving a big push to this field.Sporting equipment, artificial turfs and composites, sportswear and active wear, sports footwear etc., all of these items consume technical textiles. This growing fitness and sports phenomena presents a big opportunity for technical textiles. • Increased spending on defence and security Government of India allocated Rs. 2,46,727 Cr. for the defence budget in 2015-16 with a good ~11% year on year increase. A significant part of this budget is used on the security of soldiers which means bullet proof jackets, high altitude clothing, gloves, shoes and other important accessories.These equipment are meant to provide high level safety to soldiers stationed in volatile areas and hence they need to be extremely efficient. Technical textiles provides the desired toughness and efficiency to these products. Government’s increasing focus on defence and security has led to an increasing demand of these equipment and there is an opportunity for local manufacturers to cater to this demand. As highlighted in the above segment, Indian market is filled with big opportunities for the domestic technical textile industry and the potential for growth in this sector is huge. However this industry is facing some fundamental challenges in its path to growth.
COVER STORY Challenges to be addressed • Lack of Awareness Benefits of technical textiles is still unknown to the larger masses of the country. This is the result of lack of marketing and basic knowledge about these products. In order to truly get the desired gains, these products must reach to all levels of the society as well the industry.To achieve the same, government and the industry need to build a solid infrastructure to educate people about technical textiles. This can be done by incorporating basic information about technical textiles in schools and colleges, conducting awareness programs such as roadshows and seminars, promotion through digital and social media etc. To propagate the consumption of technical textiles in the end user industry, initiatives need to be taken to organize interaction between technical textile industry and end user industries like Ministries of Water, Railways, Urban Development, and Housing etc. • Development of Skilled Workforce Technical textiles is a highly varied subject and comprises of multiple processes to manufacture different products. These processes require different and high level of skill sets from workers which is currently absent in the domestic industry. Majority of the government schemes for manpower training are focused on core textiles such as spinning, weaving & garmenting. There are no such specific curriculum developed for technical textiles. In order to curb this issue, there is an im-
mediate need to organize specific forums for interaction between industry and academia so that specific curriculum could be developed for technical textiles. Also, government can modify their manpower development schemes to align with the requirements of the technical textiles industry. • Lack of Research & Development One of the key issues that Indian technical textiles industry is facing is the lack of product diversification. Commodity products such as jute sacks, labels & badges, elastics, tyre cord fabric, fibre fill, furniture fabric etc. constitute the major share in the domestic market of technical textiles.Technical textiles is an innovation intensive field and to excel in it, focus on product research & development is a must.Government of India has set up multiple centers of excellence whose main aim is to provide R&D support to the industry. However, the change required must come from the industry side with a change in the mindset. Young and aspiring entrepreneurs must take this opportunity and invest in research and development of technical textiles and reap its benefits in the coming years, • Imports of technical textiles India imports significant amount of technical textiles from countries like China, US & other European countries. These imports constitute of cheap products from China and hi-tech products from US & Europe. This signifies that Indian technical textiles industry is lacking scale and the capacities to manufacture high-tech
products. Another issue that the industry is facing is the absence of specialty fibre production in India. Majority of the technical textile products use specialty fibressuch as carbon fibres, Nylon 66, UHMPE, Polyacrlyic fibres etc. which are not manufactured in India. Importing of these raw material is costlier in India as compared to importing finished goods due to the inverted duty structure. Absence of requisite raw material and modern machineries, manufacturing of high tech products becomes difficult in the country.This challenge pose as an opportunity for domestic manufacturers in the form of import substitution. Indian industry need to developmanufacturing capabilities for raw material of technical textiles while technical textiles manufacturers need to upgrade their machinery in order to manufacture value added products.
Conclusion Technical textiles has true growth potential in a country like India which is currently going through a transformation phase. This transformation of the Indian landscape offers a sea of opportunity for any industry and especially for technical textile which has a lot to offer. But with these opportunities comes equal number of challenges which need to be checked for this industry to move ahead. With the right approach & positive mindset of the industry and the support from government, this industry is bound to scale new heights in the coming years. Mr. Sumit Parmar, Wazir Advisors
Recycled Raw Materials gain recognition in Technical Textiles Emerging technologies make end-of-life products find new applications in technical textiles
n world recycle week starting April 18, 2016. ‘Give us your old, your broken, your worn-out and your outof-style clothes’ was the message H&M was sending out when seeking to collect 1,000 tonnes of old clothing from customers across its 3,600 stores worldwide.Wang (2006) stated that recovery from the waste stream includes re-use
of a product in its original form; the largest volume of goods is sorted for second hand clothing markets. Closing the loop form cradle to grave in textiles is gaining importance worldwide. Certain waste ceases to be waste – if become the raw materials for further development to bring economic or environmental benefits and thus end of
waste specifications and criteria have to be developed (Sinha et al : 2009). As reported in the Indian textile Journal (2009), recycling in the textile and clothing sector can take several forms. The best known method involves the manufacture of a textile or clothing product from recycled consumer waste—such as plastic bottles or waste polyester
COVER STORY yarns or fabrics. Some companies purchase second-hand material and use it to manufacture a new product, which is another form of recycling (Oser, 2011). According to Wang (2006),two categories of conversion to new products are used by the breakdown of fabric to fiber: shoddy (from knits) and mungo (from woven garments) are terms for the breakdown of fabric to fiber through cutting, shredding, carding and other mechanical processes. The fiber is then re-engineered into value-added products. These value-added products include stuffing, automotive components and carpet underlay’s building materials such as insulation and roofing felt and low-end blankets.Clothing that has seen the end of its useful life as such may be turned into wiping or polishing cloths for industrial use. T-shirts are a primary source for this category because the cotton fiber makes an absorbent rag and polishing cloth. Recycled raw materials have been looked down upon by manufacturers of technical textile products. Loss of strength, reduction in fibre length, problems in spin ability in yarn construction and web formation for nonwoven have limited the use of reclaimed fibres from end-oflife textile products including clothing and home textiles. Gulich (2010) argued that depending on product functions, reclaimed fibres can be looked upon as conventional in technical textiles, particularly in nonwovens (mobility textiles which mainly serve to cover up surfaces or to insulate materials, agro-textiles, and geo-textiles which are used to protect soil against erosion). In all these cases reclaimed fibres are used because of low prices nor merely because they cover something up. However, reclaimed fibres are also applied in nonwovens to utilize highly valuable functional components. The range of application can be vast. While rags as industrial wipes and mattress stuffing are well known and accepted, less thought/ attention has been paid in exploring end-uses. Gulich(2010) stated that producers use reclaimed fibres for a number of reasons: They are low cost. Raw materials and waste dis-
posal are becoming more and more expensive. Ecological aspects, too, play an ever more important role. Batra&Pourdeyhimi (2012) stated that the processing of nonwovens depends on a range of technologies, some adapted from the textile and paper industries, others developed uniquely for nonwovens production. The fiber type(s) and specifications selected are dictated by the desired properties of end-use items; the available technologies of preparation and web formation, and the economics of processing raw materials from preparation to finishing. Over the past decade there has been a marked increase in the development of nonwoven technologies for the successful processing of alternative raw materials, including natural fibers and for the recycling of waste materials, according to an article in the Technical Textiles & Nonwoven – Excellent (2014). It wasreported that Freudenberg Vitech, is an industry leader in the production of nonwoven automotive fabric made from 100% post-consumer recycled material at Hopkinsville in Kentucky. Freudenberg’s Nonwovens, headquartered in Durham, North Carolina, uses millions of pounds of 100% post-consumer and post-industrial recycled plastic a year to make environmentally sustainable materials for building and construction substrates. Applications for the products made on this machine include automotive preformed panels, seat, wadding, sound-proofing and thermal insulation materials, furnishing products such as sofa, mattress and chair weddings, bed quilting and sleeping bags, roof and wall insulation materials, packaging, interlinings and sanitary articles. A recent research on the Technical textile applications included the use of reclaimed fibers for needle-punched nonwoven. The nonwoven developed from as packing material, thermal insulation layer in winter jacket, sound absorbing materials. Successful trials were conducted to study the application of the nonwoven for packing household appliances and furniture in relocating homes through professional service providers. The transport worthiness test reports
showed favourable results in using the product as a cushioning material in conjunction with other packing materials. Additional reinforcement in the form of hard board angle will be required to protect the corners from damage in transit. Nonwoven made from shirting waste was found to provide thermal insulation in winter jacketsor light winters. The sound absorbing properties of the nonwoven from T Shirts and dress materials were found to absorb sound satisfactorily with a Sound Absorbing Coefficient at mid to high frequencies. It was found that materials with dissimilar fibres have better Noise Reduction Coefficients. Further improvement could broaden the scope for research and encourage entrepreneurial initiatives.
Suman D. munDkur AssistAnt PrOfessOr, DePArtMent Of textiLes AnD APPAreL Designing, svt COLLege eMAiL:suMAn_MunDkur@yAhOO.COM
Dr. Ela m. DEDhia AssOCiAte PrOfessOr AnD Ph.D guiDe, hOD Of nirMALA niketAn eMAiL: eLAMAnOjDeDhiA@yAhOO.COM
Exclusive Interview with Mr. Narendra Pokharan, MD of VMS International
Our measures of success are benefits to our customers, vendors, employees, the communities we operate in, our promoters and most importantly a positive environmental impact: Narendra Pokhrana
MS International with its customer centric approach strives to provide quality polyester fibre products and value addition in a commoditized market by customer specific product customizations and close integration to customer supply chains. Being a pioneer of ‘waste to fibre’, the firm has always been associated with sustainable and Earth-friendly production techniques. Mr Narendra Pokhrana in an exclusive interview, shared his views and opinion with Textile Value Chain
Nonwoven segment is quiet new as compare to conventional woven fabric of India. TVC: What Is your inspiration/ Idea for starting the company in this segment? When it is started? Mr Narendra Pokhrana:Having deep industry and technical knowledge as a buyer of virgin polyester fibre, manufacturing was the logical next step. In 1990’s in India, most polyester wastewas used as fuel for burning in the brick making industry which was heavily polluting the environment.We started collecting this polyester waste and recycling it by contract manufacturing on production lines of large virgin polyester fibre manufacturers during their idle time, thus starting the polyester recycling industry in India. Our partners started polyester fibre recycling activities in 1990 and reorganised as a partnership firm ‘VMS International’ in 2003. With our first recycled polyester fibre production unit. TVC: What Challenges & Struggle you have faced? Mr Narendra Pokhrana: High demand and price volatility is the key challenge, the market is extremely sensitive to local and global macroeconomic events & currency fluctuations as the
end consumer are global, even though our direct customers are domestic, also as an industry we are competing with global supplier value chains, especially from China. In addition, as many of the end products are consumer products, they follow seasonal demand patterns i.e. festivals/ holidays, winter, which further complicate the predictability. To combat these uncertainties, huge cash surpluses, lean production methods, close integration with our direct customers and entrepreneurial culture across the firm is required to sustain during the lean periods and benefit during the peak periods. Inconsistent raw material supply, due to the nature of the recycling business, the raw materials come from several sources with inconsistent supply frequency and quality thus affecting production schedules. Establishing deep relationships and integration with suppliers is key to keep the inconsistencies under control. Difficulty to attract top talentto work and live in industrial towns, this is fast changing for Silvassa due to the rapid development in the last 10 years, improved connectivity to Mumbai and also the expansion of Mumbai in the north.
TVC: You’re Product Range? Mr Narendra Pokhrana: Recycled Polyester Staple Fibre (PSF) y Type : Solid, Hollow; y Finish : Siliconized, Non-siliconized; y Colours : Black, White, Dyed; y Denier : from 1 to 28; y Cut length : Various / custom o Siliconized Fibre o Trilobel Fibre (Bright Fibre)
COVER STORY TVC: You’re Application Industry? Mr Narendra Pokhrana: Recycled Polyester Staple Fibre (PSF) like Nonwoven fabrics, Nonwoven sheets, Carpets, Blankets, Filter Clothes, Sketch Pen Refill, Cigarette Filters, Construction - Polyester Fiber Reinforced Concrete (PFRC) & Geo fabrics.
replacing other conventional materials e.g.: adoption in Furniture industry as moulded components replacing wood, plastic and other materials.
TVC: Market Focus: Domestic or Export or both? Mr Narendra Pokhrana: we are in Domestic.
Siliconized Fibre such as Pillows, Quilts, Sofas, Mattresses & Toys
TVC: What is your product innovation approach?
TVC: Product Specification: Unique Selling Point of Product.
Mr Narendra Pokhrana: In-house R&D centre / Design Team, customer feedback
Mr Narendra Pokhrana: o Collaborative customization for individual customers o Deep integration in customer supply chain o Consistent Quality
TVC: Pricing Strategy: Competitive / Premium / Lowest? Mr Narendra Pokhrana:Lowest total product cost.
TVC: Do you have Brand of your product? Or you supply as Industrial Products in the Market ? Mr Narendra Pokhrana:Industrial products.
TVC: According to you what is the scope of non woven in INDIA and Internationally? Mr Narendra Pokhrana:Increasing consumer demands due to increasing incomes in developing countries including India, higher increase expected in disposable hygiene products. Increase in demand due to new applications as nonwovens are
TVC: What your Future plan in Non Woven for next 5 years & 10 years? Mr Narendra Pokhrana: we are in Capacity expansion from current 400 metric tonnes per month to 1200 metric tonnes per month in 2017 and Addition of technical nonwoven product line planned
TVC: Any future generation joining business in next 5 years? Mr Narendra Pokhrana: Yes
TVC: What is a new Application area in nonwovens? Mr Narendra Pokhrana: Globally increased adoption in Furniture (moulded products) replacing wood & other materials Rapid developments in Technical Nonwovens across apparel, building components, FRP, speciality packaging etc Increasing adoption in developing countries including India in Agriculture, Geo fabrics,& Construction
NONWOVENS IN AGRICULTURE : Indian Scenario TYPICAL USES
• GREEN HOUSES: Production of vegetable crops. Production of off-seasonal flowers, vegetables. Production of Roses, Carnation, cut-flowers etc. Plant propagation, rising of seedlings. Primary and secondary hardening nursery of Tissue cultured plant. Growth / Production of rare plants, orchids / herbs, medicinal plants
• ROOT CONTROL • CONTAINERS • CAPILLARY MATTING
CROP COVERS: Protection of crops against severe sunlight in hot conditions. Maintaining moisture under the cover. Physically prevent the crop from insects, pests and birds. Protect the plant from severe frost in cold climates. Protect the plant from hail storms
• MULCHING: Expand crops life with geo jute.
movement at plant height reduces water loss from plants.
TURF PROTECTION PRODUCTS: Are widely used for protection and reinforcement of seeds. • NURSERY OVERWINTERING: Ventilation of overwintering structures is usually necessary to prevent excessive heat buildup. Opening end doors but blocking air
WEED CONTROL: Weed Control Fabrics ensure excellent growth of plants with complete protection from adverse weather conditions.
RESULTS OF USING NONWOVENS IN AGRICULTURE: • Faster early and late spring vegetation. •
Increase the yield of fruits, vegetable and flowers. • Reduce or minimize use of Pesticides. • Enable growth of crops even in unfavorable weather conditions.
COVER STORY • Reduce fertilizer consumption. TYPICAL CONSUMPTION OF FABRICS IN AGRICULTURE • DRA estimate total world consumption 538000 tons in 2005 • China 70000 tons total including 30000 tons nonwoven. • USA 17000 tons as per report. • Thailand 27576 tons Published data. POTENTIAL IN VEGETABLE CROP END USES • Including all states and all crops at penetration levels of 2 to 5%. • The total potential is 35475 tons of 17 GSM spun bond nonwoven. • India is the 3rd largest vegetable producer in the world. FLORICULTURE • Nearly 60,000 hectares is under use in India. • A fast growing market for nonwovens
• High value product can easily justify increased initial investment cost. GROUND WORK REQUIRED TO ACHIEVE THE POTENTIAL • Practical trials and report results under Indian conditions • Education to farmers on efficacy of such products • Effective distribution set up with existing marketing agencies in rural areas • Manufacture and availability of adequate Spun bond in India • Suitable rural agencies for creation of simple structures for fixing the fabrics. • Effective financing pattern and incentives from the Government to induce the farmers to use first time CONCLUSIONS 1. The potential HIGH in Agricultural nonwovens 2. Horticulture, Vegetable cultivation and Floriculture are important areas
with high potential 3. Governmental thrust and initiative in terms of incentives is required to accelerate the use of such products for the benefit of the farmers in India. Example: Micro Irrigation incentives have helped 4. The total potential of nearly 50,000 tons at low penetration levels indicate the success for any venture in India meeting the requirements of this market. 5. Additional applications like root control, capillary mats etc will follow when the material is available at competitive price locally.
By - k’S TEChniCal anD manaGEmEnT COnSulTanTS, BarODa
A BRIEF ANALYSIS OF PERFORMANCE TEXTILESANTI BACTRIA, 3 X DRY AND C CHANGE TYPE Introduction :
n the recent years everyone would have read much about smart textiles which incorporate electronics into textiles for various sensing and reporting functions. While this is going to the trend and we shall see that a part of conventional textiles ( which has not changed in basic function and appearance over last hundreds of years), there is a considerable development taking place in functional or performance textiles. An attempt is made here to touch upon various functional textiles for the reader’s information and focus. Only three types of functional finishes will be considered in this article out of over Ten types of commercially viable finishes. The remaining will be covered in the next few articles later Materials The performance in textiles is achieved by two basic methods 1.Choice of right raw material for basic fabric 2. Choice of right finish or laminations
The choice of performance raw material is limited and suppliers are big multinational with their own proprietary properties and certification procedures. There is little scope for a manufacturer to use his creativity and maintain market leadership by their own uniqueness or process know how. On the other hand the functional finishes allow the processor to use a combination of chemicals and process techniques and special knowhow to achieve the newperformance properties.This type of finshalso suits development of special products to meet exacting requirements in Army, Electronics, Safety and Aviation markets. A typical textile manufacturer will be looking to add value to existing conventional textile raw materials like Polyester, Cotton, viscose, polypropylene, acrylic etc., which can processed easily on his existing machines or with marginal capital investment. Many of the readily available finishes are proprietary in nature and process know how a closely guarded secret. Many
companies like Schoeller, Outlast, Coolmax etc., license the technology and certify the product. In Europe and USA many of the products described are already in use for the last six to seven years and many well known brands are making garments using these licensed products. It must be made clear the cost of production has very little correlation with the Selling price for these products. It is the Brand image, Product performance assurance and need of buyer in such products that determine the final selling price of these products. During the discussions with various industry personnel it was evident that maximum gain in the value chain as today is with the Garment manufacturer who label these products as 3X-dry, Outlast etc., There are many more brands in the market, I have only mentioning a few. The new technologies of fabric finish considered are expected to replace the older technologies like Fluorocarbon, silicone finish, simple porous membranes, etc., The advent of Nanotechnology has made the finishes more predictable and perma-
COVER STORY nent in performance. However, the new technology is patented and available with a few companies worldwide making it imperative to license the technology.It is to procesors advantage, in the recent days there are many companies offering competing Nano- technology products without the licensing and franchisee models. However one has to make their own R & D efforts to arrive at special processes for these chemicals.
SOME TYPICAL FINISHES OF SIGNIFICANCE 1.3X-DRY Previously the moisture was transported from inside to outside of a garment using two different types of materials. For example use of Nylon in the inside layer and Polyester on the outer layer of laminated fabric. This was more expensive and had limited use due the increase in weight of fabric, stiffness generated during lamination and overall higher cost. Schoeller developed the new technique using special chemical finish on either side of the fabric. This type of finish is expected to be more user friendly and economical. Schoeller Technologies has developed the technology and process know how. A typical estimate for 3X-dry type of products in India is given below for your appreciation of typical base market for such finishes in India alone. (Million sq m of fabric demand estimate for India) APPLICATION
ACTIVE SPORTS WEAR
OUTERWEAR- MEN GARMENTS
OUTERWEAR- Women- TOPS AND 11.04 BLOUSES LEISURE-KNITTED
TOTAL- MILLION SQ M
TOTAL VALUE IN Rs. CRORES @ 558.04 Rs.200 PER SQ M
Ref: Market study of KS Technical As more companies other than Schol-
llerhave developed similar chemicals giving the freedom to the end users to experiment and obtain equivalent or better properties developing his own proprietary processes. Discussions with various persons in the Garment industry and Textile finishing, we have gathered that market exists for such special products, particularly due to tropical climate conditions in India.
2. C-CHANGE C_change™ is a water and windproof membrane technology which is capable of independent flexible adaptation of its moisture vapour permeability. “This flexible adaptability based on a clever use of material properties has made it possible to improve the comfort of wear of membrane clothing in changing climates“ C-Change bionic climate membrane reacts in a way similar to that of a pine cone which opens and closes in response to different weather conditions. As soon as the ambient temperature rises, or greater moisture is produced as a result of body heat, the polymer structure of the membrane opens and allows excess moisture to escape to the outside air. As soon as the body produces less heat energy and therefore less moisture, the membrane structure contracts again. Here body heat is stored and protection from chilling and shivering built up. In addition, C_ CHANGE™ offers moisture vapor permeability at the highest level. C_CHANGE™, the new membrane technology from schoeller® reacts tochanging temperatures and activities. In addition, it offers moisture vapor permeability at the highest level and is wind- and waterproof. This means that C_CHANGE™ always ensures an optimum body climate. Open in response to heat or increased activity: At high temperatures, or during sporting activity, the structure of the c_change™ membrane opens as body moisture levels rise. Excess heat can escape to the outside air. Closed in response to cold or reduced activity: Due to the lower level of body moisture development in cold weather or during
periods of inactivity, the structure of the membrane closes, retaining the heat directly at the body. Shivering or chilling is effectively prevented “C” CHANGE material is the product of Schoeller Technologies and is patented. However similar materials are available from Fintetex, Tetratex, Goretex and other European companies. The function of C change is shown in diagram below. The market in India for C change materials is unexplored so far. It is however likely to find use as winter wear in many parts of the country where in the temperatures are not too low. Children protective wear particularly for the school going kids is a likely market that will grow. Special lamination machines are required for the C change membrane to be incorporated with the functional fabrics. The cost of the machine depend on width and speed. One of the market survey report show that the potential for this type of product
in India is over 500 Lakh meters. 3.ANTI-BACTERIA FINISHES Bacterial growth in textiles can cause many a discomfort to the wearer mainly in
SKIN IRRITATION CHANGE OF COLOUR BAD ODOUR Over the years many a chemical treatments have been developed including Silver ion treatment to achieve the long term anti bacteria result. However success still eludes a cost effective and long term solution as many a chemical finishes are not resistant to multiple washes of a garment . Silver based systems have their own problems in skin cancer and also
COVER STORY own problems in skin cancer and also pollution control in process houses. Anti Bacteria finishes become more important in Bed Linens, Towels and Medical drapes and Gowns. Applications of Anti-bacterialtreatment is shown the picture below The typical known solution for Anti Bacterial treatment along with their characteristics is illustrated in the following picture. We understand a New Nano-technology system is being worked out In Israel which gives much longer life for this finish at the same time making the process
more cost effective compared to Silver based chemicals. The process technology ensure that the chemicals enter the interstices of the yarn and fabric enabling durability over 75 washes in most cases. It is also claimed that the process can be applied to fabrics of cotton, polyester, blends of cotton and polyester fibers, Nylon and other conventional fibers. The company claims that It can be applied to both spun yarn fabrics and filament
based fabrics with equal efficacy.
The typical process is given below for illustration
There is a huge potential fabric with new finishes in India and am sure the readers from the processing and garment sector will like to take advantage of these technologies which are available to make more value added products.
The market in India and tropical countries for Anti-bacteria finish is estimated to be very high. Survey reports are available in the market from Market research companies. In addition to good demand in Garment and intimate wear sector, the potential is high in the Medical and Hospitality segments also.
raViShankar ks teChniCAL AnD MAnAgeMent COnsuLtAnts, rAvishAnkAr@teChniCALtex.COM
success is not final, failour is not fatal; it is the courage to continue that counts..!
by : Winston Churchill
Environmental Geotechnique Definition : Environmental geotechnique is a systematic, scientific way of protecting environment, human and animal life or wild life form damage due to natural disaster, man made projects / activities. It is a civil engineering discipline that is concerned with building on, in, or with soil and rock. Geotechnical engineers design dams, embankments, cuts, foundations, retaining walls, anchors, tunnels, and all other structures directly interacting with the subsoil, both onshore and offshore. Ground Engineering is a fundamental component of all civil engineering projects and relates to the provision of complete solutions for ground-related infrastructure, ranging from ground investigation through laboratory testing, design of underground infrastructure and provision of specialist construction supervision. Disposal of waste generated by people and industrial processes is an important issue in our society. If this waste is not managed in a safe and reliable manner, then human health and the environment are at risk. Waste containment facilities like landfills are one of the most commonly used means for waste disposal. What are the criteria for the structural stability of landfilled municipal solid waste, for example, especially when the material is undergoing chemical and biological degradation over many years? Sewage sludges, industrially contaminated soils and stabilised waste all have their own geotechnical characteristics when considering disposal and management where the natural environment is concerned, hydrology is frequently the driver of contaminant movement as well as structural instability problems. The influence of climate change on many of these environmental issues presents significant challenges to both hydrological and geotechnical analyses to which Environmental Geotechnics as a discipline has much to contribute. The remedial actions can be classified into four broad categories, which include engineering based and process-based methods6 (a) removal (b) containment (c) rehabilitation (d) treatment. The main objectives of environmental geotechnics are: The creation of better environment The prevention of environmental risks to human activities. The prevention of dangers to human life caused by natural hazards. Measures to create better environment and prevention of loss: 1.Erosion Control 2.Flood control
3.Slope protection 4.Land sliding prevention 5.Municipal / Hazardous waste management 6.Water resources management 7.Control of natural disaster 8.Recycling/reuse of waste Erosion / Flood control : Use of geosynthetics like Geobag, Geotubes, Gabions helps in control of these natural disaster. Slope protection: Geotextile, Geocells are used to stabilize the slope. Land sliding : Land sliding can be prevented using geosynthetics and metal nets. Waste management-Landfilling : Municipal waste /hazardous waste is dumped in excavated land ( over geosynthetics like nonwoven geotextile, geomembrane and geosynthetic clay liner ) and then covered with geosynthetics with leachate collection and gas collection system. Gas generated from waste can be utilized for heating or cooking. Leachate (contaminated water) is purified and utilized for industrial applications. The construction of liners, floors, walls and cover (capping) systems that adequately limit the spread of pollutants and the infiltration of surface water . The containment, collection and removal of leakage from landfills . The control, collection, and removal or use of landfill gases . The maintenance of landfill stability . Monitoring to ensure that the necessary long term performance is being achieved. y Geochemistry and geohydrology; y Soil and rock physics, biological processes in soil, soilatmosphere interaction; y Waste management, utilization of wastes, multiphase science, landslide wasting, soil and water conservation; y The impact of climatic changes on geo-environmental, geothermal/ground-source energy, carbon sequestration, oil and gas extraction techniques, y Uncertainty, reliability and risk, monitoring and forensic geotechnics Waste management should be based on an environmental geotechnical approach. Large amounts of waste are generated from industry and human activity. The hierarchy in management is waste minimisation, proper treatment, reuse/recycling and energy recovery. Natural resources should be preserved and the need for landfill minimised. The objective of any risk assessment is to determine the risk to groundwater, other aquatic systems and ecosystems through discharge of substances from a landfill. Water resources : Water ways, artificial reservoirs, canals are created also using geosynthetics. Control of natural disasters : Disasters like earthquake, Tsunami, Land sliding etc can be controlled to some extent to save
COVER STORY lives and property.
GEOSYNTHETIC PRODUCTS y VARIOUS GEOSYNTHETIC PRODUCTS USED IN PREVENT ING ENVIRONMENTAL LOSS
Re-use of waste :
Surplus soil and waste slurry, Waste concrete and waste rock powder ,Coal ash ,Iron, steel, and other slags, Mining waste , Municipal solid waste incinerated ash (MSWIA) , Sewage sludge incinerated ash ,Paper sludge , Waste tyres , Waste plastics and other similar materials When using recycled materials, such as industrial and municipal wastes and surplus soils, the potential for pollution must be assessed under the environment of a given application. Measures for Better Environment
y Geo ContainerGeosynthetic Clay LinerComposite Drainage Liner
Coir Mattress & Their Applications Evaluation and certifying the products: Geosynthetics which are used in various applications need to be evaluated at laboratory level and on site. Index test, performance tests are carried out and certified by accredited laboratory before putting them in to use. Following Properties need to evaluate. • Mechanical properties • Hydraulic properties • Durability properties
Land filling of MSW Recycling of hazardous waste Composting / Bio Gas generation
• Endurance properties
mr. V.k. PaTil, geOteCh LAb, COe, btrA e-MAiL : btrA@vsnL.COM, CeLL 09969011046
Interview with Mr. Mohan Kavrie, MD of Supreme Group, Leader of Non Woven Industry in India
upreme Nonwovens ManufacturesNonwovens using all the existing Technologies that use staple fibres
begun to start around this time and two other Companies – Uniproducts and Hitkari were also started in 1986-87.
Supreme-Treon manufacturesNonwoven Based Automobile Interior Trims -Moulded Carpets, NVH Insulations and Roof Liners. The Supreme Group is leader in both Nonwovens and Nonwoven based Automotive Interior Trims. Supplier to practically every Car Maker in the Country. Recipient of several Vendor Awards, including ‘Global Supplier of Year’ Award from General Motors for three years in succession. The Group has factories in 14 locations spread across India from Uttarkhand to Chennai. Group Net Sales 2016-17 750 crores( 115 million USD). Conferred the Distinguished Alumnus Award 2016 by IITBombay in recognition of his outstanding contributions to the field of manufacturing and for his successes in entrepreneurial ventures.Has been referred to as ‘Father of Nonwovens in India’ Has been actively associated since 2002 with all the initiatives of the Ministry of Textiles and member of various Committees to promote the awareness and development of Technical Textiles in India and frequently advises some of the COE’s. In an exclusive interview Mr. Mohan Kavrie, MD of Supreme Nonwoven Industries Pvt. Ltd.
TVC: What has inspired you to enter this segment? Mohan Kavrie: Supreme Nonwovens was started by me in 1986-87. There were only two Nonwoven Units in the Country at this time - Tata Mills,Parel and United Felts and Carpets,Jaipur. Both were very small units but unfortunately on the verge of closure. Prior to starting Supreme I was heading United Felts & Carpets and had become aware of the great potential forNonwovens in India. This was the reason for starting Supreme Nonwovens. Nonwoven awareness had
TVC: What Challenges & Struggles have you faced? MohanKavrie :Besides the usual challenges that every entrepreneur has to face in India, the real problem was the lack of awareness about the applications of Nonwovens and therefore limited demand. We had to identify customers that could benefit by using Nonwovens, understand their processes and problems, develop products to meet their specific need and start supplying after convincing them of the benefits. As there were no technical persons in India with the knowledge and experience of Nonwoven processes and manufacturing, we were literally starting from zero.
TVC: Product technology details: Mohan Kavrie :We employ every type of Nonwoven Technology that uses staple fibres as the basic input. We use all the
COVER STORY three web forming processes i.e Direct Carded, Cross Laid and Air Laid webs. We have all the four Mechanical Bonding Technologies i.e. Needle Punching, Spunlace (Hydroentanglement), Stitch Bonding and Vertical Lappping (Struto). In Chemical, we have both Wet (Emulsion Binders) and Dry (Resin Powders). In Thermal, we have both Calender Bonding and Hot Air Bonding. As the demand for products from each of these Technologies is still limited, we have grown our Company by adopting all the Technologies. Only a handful of Companies in the World have this kind of range of Technologies. In addition, we also have a large range of Finishing Facilities. We manufacture fabrics for all segments of Industrythat use Nonwovens for a wide range of Technical Applications.
“ Technical textile & Non
Woven is not for everyone, but those who are passionate about R&D and Innovation.
TVC: You manufacture high end technical fabric or commodity fabrics? Mohan Kavrie : Nonwovens can be broadly classified into fabrics that are custom made for specific performance requirements and for specific customers. This business is generally B2B. In addition, there are Nonwovens that are produced in very large quantities and are essentially a commodity. We are totally focused of Nonwovens that are tailormade for specific customers. Such business requires lot of Development and Innovation. This is our strength and differentiates us from others in India.We are not into Commodity type of Nonwovens.
TVC: What is your pricing module? Mohan Kavrie :We are usually the first to develop and introduce a new Nonwoven for specific application. The pricing is based on material cost, processing cost and a fair margin. Yes, as there are many that copy our products, their pricing is usually benchmarked to our price and offered at lower prices. However, for a technical textile the performance is more important than price and therefore the damage is usually temporary if your pricing is fair.
TVC:How is the manufacturing base in Nonwovens in India? Mohan Kavrie :The Manufacturing base in India is relatively small but is still over-crowded in some areas. This is because many companies do not have capability for R&D and only copy the successful ones. This does not result in increasing the market size but only divides the cake. Entrepreneurs must
understand that each must focus on own chosen niche area and then alone the market will grow and be profitable for all. Technical textile is not for everyone. Nonwoven Companies are generally entrepreneur driven andby those who are passionate about R&D and Innovation. You should have your own strength and USP. This is not a follower industry.
TVC:Do you have Branding for your Products? Mohan Kavrie :As Supreme is the Market Leader and the business is largely B2B, the Company name is it’s Brand for most products. Our Filter Bags are sold under the Brand ‘NOWOFILT’ and the Interlinings Brand is ‘TERCA‘ TVC: According to you what is scope of nonwoven in India? Mohan Kavrie : We are way behind Europe, USA, China and all the South East Asian Countries. It can be said that we are still at infancy stage. Both Nonwoven Usage and Manufacturing is still very small against the potential that exists. We must understand that even Internationally the Nonwoven Companies are generally small to medium sized. It may surprise most that in the list of 40 Top International Nonwoven Companies only 5 have Sales between 1.0 Billion USD to 2.0 Billion USD. Berry Plastic the largest has reached 2.0 Billion USD only by major acquisitions and mergers in recent years. 10 Companies are between 350 Million to 700 Million USD, 23 between 100 million and 350Million USD. The 39th and 40th are below 100 Million USD with the last being only 86 Million. Despite this, it must be said that Nonwovens can be a fairly profitable business. Despite the very large claims being made, as per our estimates the true current size of the Indian Nonwoven Industry is under 3000 crores. Supreme is the largest and most diversified Nonwoven Company in India. Some very large Indian Companies are entering Nonwovens without realizing that it may not be interesting for them. Large Companies should get into manufacturing of Nonwovens that are Commodities. The capacities must be very large to be competitive and hence the investment for such large facilities is necessarily very high. Also, currently Domestic demand can at best absorb 10 to 15% of the production capacity and most of the production therefore must be exported at very competitive prices. Large Companies would find it extremely difficult to cater to small niche markets that involve tremendous effort for product development and alsowhere the production runs are small. To sum up, the potential for Nonwovens is very large but not suited for all.
TVC: Do you get inspired from International market? Mohan Kavrie : Not really. As India is far behind,our progress will be slow as we must first gain experience by in-house R&D and by focus on own innovation.
TVC: Any Future generation joining the business? Mohan Kavrie :Supreme is a Professionally run Company. All
COVER STORY the same Nonwovens require the Company to be with an entrepreneurial spirit. My Son Amit and Daughter Smita are now in charge. They are assisted by a Team of well experienced and committed persons.
TVC: Future Plan for 10 years? Mohan Kavrie :We have started from zero and have been clear leaders for the last 30 years. Besides working to remain the leader in India, we aim to be recognized internationally for our innovative and high performance products.
TVC: New Application in Nonwovens? Mohan Kavrie : This is an on-going process and can never stop. As leader, it is our responsibility to ensue same.
TVC: You never think of going in Commodities? Mohan Kavrie :Unlikely. We are into innovation and derive pleasure out of creating a new product. Commodity products is not of interest to us.
TVC : What do you think about COE ( Center of Excellence) ? Mohan Kavrie :The Centres of Excellence (I am referring only to Nonwovens and do not wish to comment about the others) have not delivered so far. This may seem a very harsh assessment but facts must be said. The COE’s do not have persons with real knowledge and experience in the Development and Manufacturing of Nonwovens. Such persons are not available to the COE and the few that exist are in Companies where they have learnt on the job.As the Industry grows, experienced persons shall become available to the COE’s.Today the COE’s mostly function as Test Houses but that is not the key role expected of a Centre of Excellence. This is what all must understand and accept for progress to happen. A COE cannot be expected to deliver without the right technical personnel. We must be patient.
COE- SPORTECH AND ITS RELEVANCE Why Invest in Sports wear Listed below are reasons one should consider investing in good workout clothing. The Right Athletic Clothing Boots Confidence The clothing one wears is going to make a difference if one believes it’s going to help one perform better. Studies in the field of cognition have shown the positive impact of wearing the right clothes for one’s workplace. Termed ‘enclothed cognition’, this phenomenon extends to sports and fitness too. The boost could be an increase in confidence – if one know one look great – chances are one will act it out too. If one like what one is wearing at the gym, there is a greater chance one will want to exercise. It’s not advisable to test this theory when one is trying to push one’s maximum at the bench press machine. However – there is a noticeable difference in one’s confidence when one is dressed in the right athletic gear than when one is not e.g; someone bought a new lightweight tennis racquet for one’s morning practice. The coach noticed a significant improvement in one’s game when he was using that racquet. The ground strokes were more accurate because he was playing
with a racquet that was balanced correctly. So when one has the right tools – well fitted workout clothes that offer support in the right areas – one is going to feel more confident. The confidence translates into better performance. The Correct sports Apparel Improves Performance There are certain outfits that are currently banned in professional swimming because they shave time off a swimmer’s lap time by creating a more aerodynamic flow in the water. Full body swimsuits made out of polyurethane were banned in 2010 following complaints from top athletes about the unfair advantage they created for wearers. one may not swim competitively – but these outfits can boost one’s performance on weekly swim practices. The default option for most men is a pair of basketball shorts that double up as swimming trunks. The drag created by the pockets will slow one down. A decent swimsuit will make a difference to one’s swimming form. Similarly, someone may need something practical like a shirt that wicks away moisture from the body so his morning jogs are more comfortable and he can stay out longer. A
top that is made of non-breathable material is going to stop the release of heat from one’s body. This results in excessive heating and discomfort that cuts short one’s exercise time. A pair of running shoes would be inadvisable on the soccer field. Footwear made for running or aerobics lacks the flexibility, lateral stability and traction required for other sports. Any exercise that requires complex movements (that’s almost every sport) – requires the right gear to prevent injury. The Right Workout Gear Adds Protection & Prevents Injuries Using improper fitted equipment is a major cause of sports-related injuries that can interfere with one’s workout routine. In extreme winter one prefers to wear long sleeved tops and pants on morning runs to cover one’s body. When the icy cold wind hits one’s legs and arms – he wants to have clothing to protect his whole body. Being protected means he can go out running in 10- 15 degree weather. Guys living in India, in the Middle East or over in South Africa or Australia have a different issue. It gets really hot and the sun is overbearing in the summer. one
COVER STORY may want a cap to cover his head and protect his face. one need protection when he is out running but also have something that’s long sleeved. That is why one does not have to apply sun screen that clogs up the pores on his skin. One might want to use gloves in the gym to protect his hands from developing calluses on the palms. Or if one is out climbing rocks. Shoes that are not the right size cause blisters, cramps and slipping that slows one down. High tops are required for protection of weak ankles. Good sports shoes cushion the foot from heavy landings when one jump and lessen the impact of his steps. Depending on the arches of one’s feet – one might require orthotic inserts to offer the right support during jumping and running movements. Improper shoes can cause a number of injuries. Even the right shoes fail to provide adequate protection during workouts if they are worn out. Well-Fitted Athletic Clothing Improves Freedom of Movement. In an attempt to get the best deal – men often buy the wrong clothing just because it’s cheap. They probably don’t fit well. They look like a great deal at first but in retrospect – paying full price gets one better value over the long run. Freedom of movement is important in active wear. A tight shirt can restrict one’s movement. Even if one is able to dunk, spike, swing or make other movement – one’s shots will be affected if one is aware of the tightness around his body. One must make sure that one’s shorts don’t ride up or slip down when he jumps. If he buys a pair that’s too big in the crotch – the shorts will come in the way of complex movements in the gym. If one is wearing a cap – make sure it’s not too tight around one’s head but also ensure it won’t fall off or slip. Focussing on movement is important especially when performing compound
exercises. One might end up doing it wrong if one’s clothing is restrictive or doesn’t offer the right support. Compression Clothing Can Aid in Recovery After Exercise A 2013 study conducted in Germany found that compression clothing actually helped recovery in performance. A 2015 study in the United States stated that there was no effect of compression clothing on sports performance. So there seems to be some conflicting evidence on whether compression clothing does help performance in sport. Compression clothing provides graduated compression to stimulate circulation. The result is a massaging effect which stimulates blood flow. The increased blood flowing through muscles removes the lactic acid produced during exercise. Recovery is boosted as a consequence and muscles are less sore and stiff. Direct pressure applied to muscles can reduce soreness and inflammation – especially after a game. Compression in athletic clothing has not been shown to have any negative effects so if one has not tested them yet – give compression clothing a shot. The German study gave compression clothing the thumbs up while the American study didn’t produce conclusive benefits. However, neither studies show any negative effects from wearing compression clothing. In the western world, the sports industry has driven much research within the textile industry to help improve athletic performance, personal comfort, and protection from the elements. It has now been established that materials designed for the manufacture of sports clothing must meet many different requirements regarding barrier characteristics, comfort of use and service life. Sportswear should perform several, but very different and even mutually excluding functions. On one hand, they must protect their users against heat loss, overheating or soaking, and on other hand they must meet high requirements in respect of product durability as well as many other properties contributing to the comfort of use.
Sportswear must have protective properties against variable atmospheric conditions existing during their use as well as protection against physical damage. They must also exhibit a high resistance to external influences such as tear strength, resistance to abrasion, shape stability, colour fastness, making-up quality, constancy of protective functions, and overall durability. Hence, testing sportswear product requires looking beyond more common tests such as shrinkage, color fastness and seam strength. Some technical features are more difficult to test, measure and quantify. At times, several individual tests must be done on different portions of a fabric’s primary feature to categorize the capability. In 21st century, global athletic clothing industry has evolved as a huge market and it is growing at a rapid pace. Companies like Under Armour have developed into billiondollar businesses by catering to a specific need. Based on such available data Ministry of Textiles felt it appropriate to focus on such specialized area of technical textile through creation of Center Of Excellence For Sportech in WRA, Thane. WRA in its premises in Thane has created a specialized comfort testing laboratory under COE sportech which is one of its own kind in India. This laboratory is equipped with equipment such as Moisture Management Tester (MMT) , Sweating Guarded Hot Plate, Drying Rate Tester, Sweating Thermal Mankin etc. COE Sportech has also tied up with industry on one hand and sport university, associations and federations on the other hand to create an appropriate ecosystem for better deliverables. It has been noticed that all leading brands do R & D outside India which are designed for those countries climatic zone. These are not exactly suitable for Indian climatic zone. New study and R & D is required by giving Indian climatic condition prime importance. Also, designing of a few instrument suitable for our climatic zone is mandatory for doing R & D and developing sportswear product suitable for Indians. One comparative study for some sportswear products by using Asian Type and Western Type Thermal
COVER STORY Manikin revealed that for the same sample different values are obtained from different Mankins. So, for a particular climatic zone, R& D needs to be carried out in order to innovate appropriate sportswear for that region’s sport persons. Table-1 Comparison of thermal insulation values of different manikin Manikin Type
50th percentile of 50th percentile of Asian Male popu- western Male poplation ulation Available at WRA, Available at RMIT, Thane Australia
Nude manikin Rct 0.554 value
requirement of the sport, solutions are to be proposed where many options are possible. A multipronged approach is required from all the stake holders to progress in this sector in India. For this Wool Research Association is continuously putting its efforts by connecting with different national and international sports institutes, sports associations, sports federations etc. Recently WRA has signed MOU with National bodies like LNIPE, Gwalior, SGMEA, Jalandhar and also international bodies like RMIT, Australia. It is going to conduct half day seminar on importance of sportswear in performance improvement of athletes in LNIPE Guwahati, SAI Bangalore, and SAI Gandhi Nagar on 27, 28 and 29 June 2017 respectively.
Conclusion Designing sports fabric and garments is a very challenging task that needs to tackle many issues related to type & nature of sports, level of physical activity, its duration and climatic condition in which it is played. Based on a thorough analysis of the
Dr. A. K. Sharma, Seema Patel, Jagadananda Behera, Girish Kherdekar Centre of Excellence –Sportech, Wool Research Association (WRA) P.O.sanodz Baugh Kolshet Road, Thane-west 400607, Email: email@example.com
Speech by Rajkumar Agarwal in Global Sports Business Show 2016 Innovation in sportswear
xtracts from the speech delivered by Mr.Rajkumar Agarwal, MD- SVG FASHIONS LTD at the Global show recently, I REPRESENT SVG Fashions Limited, a multi product textile and Apparel Manufacturer. Among other things, “SVG” is focused on and derives significant revenue from sportswear fabric and garments. We can proudly claim to have contributed significantly towards import substitution as our clients used to import a major part of the fabrics that we now provide them. I am here to speak about innovation in sportswear. I think the biggest innovation that has taken place is the use of micro filament polyester and Polyester (Nylon), in place of cotton for sports apparels. Traditionally cotton was considered the fibre of choice because of its moisture absorb-
ing and breathable properties, but now it is well established that polyester and polyester (nylon) are the right fibres for performance were. Cotton has the drawback of being able to retain upto 150% of its weight of water or sweat !! So for example a cotton TShurt which typically weights around 200 gms, then for an athlete who is sweating, the weight of the T-Shirt could become 500gms. This is not desirable at all. Whereas a micro-polyester or polyamide T-shirt would initially weight may be 150 gms and due to its wicking properties, it will absorb the sweat but not able to retain it and therefore release it into the atmosphere, making the wearer feel dry as well as light. However, polyester has become the fibre of choice for mass consumption mainly due to the cost factor. Other recent innovations. Other recent innovations can
egorized in terms of the properties they impart to the apparel or the method of construction of the apparel or the source of the fibre or the aesthetics or the perennial challenges which have been overcome or the method of production. Let’s first talk about properties: Moisture Management. Good moisture wicking is one the most essential properties for any sports apparels. Micro polyester treated with specified chemicals, mostly polyester resin, either at yarn stage or fabric stage can impart excellent wicking properties to the apparel. Here, I must add, that some manufacturers use very low DPF yearns to improve wicking and softness but end up failing the snagging test,. So we have to find the right balance between softness, wicking and goods snagging.
COVER STORY Antibacterial Finish. One drawback of polyester is that it is conducive to breeding of bacteria. This can be overcome by treating the yarn of fabric with additives resulting in excellent Anti Bacterial properties in the garments. Production from Ultra Voilet Rays. Another property which is essential in some countries is protection from UV Rays. Dense Fabric in dark shares usually offers good protection naturally. However thinner materials and lighter shades need to be treated suitably.
We can also get cotton feel by using spun polyester. However, most spoun polyesters have poor pilling and wicking properties. Another requirement is so have polyester fabric with out sheen. This is now possible by using full dull polyester,. Seamless Garments. Another important innovation is seamless garments. This is an exciting development and with further fine tuning and cost reduction, could grab significant market share.
Sustainability – The fibre source.
An important innovation which is becoming more and more indispensable is the use of spandex, Adding it imparts excellent stretch and hand feel to the fabric. Spandex blends very well with Polyamide (Nylon). Polyester with spandex used to be a challenge few years back because of different temperature requirements. However, innovations in spandex manufacturing have improved compatibility of polyester with spandex and now poly spandex is mass produced.
We now have availability of recycled polyester, this is made out of- Discarded pet bottles. This it is sustainable and takes care of a serious drawback of polyester which is that it is not bio-degradable. Initially good quality was a challenge. Barriness was inherent in recycled polyester.
Ultra light fabrics.
In terms of aesthetics, lot of innovations have taken place. Various options in polyester mélange are now available. Polyester blended with catonic polyester or Polyamide (nylon) in various blends provide unique aesthetics to the apparel. Dyed yarns and in particular space dyed yarns are now available to provide a fashionable look to sportswear.
Another recent development is the use of ultra light GSM interlock fabric with GSM around 100 made from very fine count and fine guage. This reduces the weight of the garments upto 30%!! Even wicking properties improve and hand feel is wonderful!! Cotton feel and look. It is human nature to want the best attributes of all options in one. So we want to properties of polyester with the hand feel of cotton. This is now possible by using carbon brush to mildly scrape the surface of the polyester fabric. I have experienced that most users cannot guess fibre content after this treatment.
However now Reliance and Polygenta are able to provide excellent recycled polyesters. Aesthetics
Lot of new structure have been developed where dace and back of the fabric are completely different and can be used to make reversible garments. Hi-visibility/Saftey. Various neon shades have been developed and are useful especially for runners apparel with Hi-visibility.
Hi-Fashion/ Trendy prints sublimation as well as Rotary Prints are now used to impart distinctiveness to the apparel. Various types of mesh structures are being developed constantly to be used in cut and sew in various proportions to create visually appealing as well as functionally improved performance wear. Quality. There have been various improvements in eliminating the perennial problems of polyester knits. Barriness or streaks is one of them. This used to be a yarn quality issue. Taiwan is able to produce completely Barriness free yarn. However, it is expensive but now Reliance and some others have improved quality considerably. Hopefully in coming years we will be able to match Taiwan quality. Most sportswear involves cut and sew of dark shares with light shares. Here, good washing fastness become critical. Various techniques ha ve evolved including use of XF Dyes to overcome this issue. In terms of production methods we now have technology to dye fabric with out water by using CO. This is a significant innovation and causes Zero pollution. Soon this should come to India once it becomes more affordable. Innovative Fibres : Bamboo Fibre. Of coursed we also have availability of bamboo fibre which is light breathable and has excellent wicking and UV protection properties. But It will be some time before it becomes viable for Mass consumption. To some up, India I believe, is a nascent stage in terms of sportswear consumption. If we can take inspiration from Taiwan in terms of quality and China in terms of cost the n sky is the limit for growth in the sector.
Success is a journey, not a destination. The doing is often more important than the Outcome..!!!
By- Arthur Ashe
Interview with Mr. Rajkumar Agarwal, MD of SVG Fashion Ltd.
hri Venkateshwara Group (SVG) needs no introduction. It is one of the leading integrated textile value chain company from yarn to garment, not only making its mark in India but also worldwide by supplying quality products and correct solution to the textile industry. We had opportunity to converse with Mr. Rajkumar Agarwal, Managing Director of SVG Fashion Ltd. TVC: What is your inspiration for starting the company?
us that do not take too much debt in textiles. We are following it and are benefitted by it. We are one of the most financially sound companies. We are among the top five companies with the kind of robust financial structure. We focus on coming up with new ideas. Less debt, more profit that is his core fundamental and for us if you ask who the inspiration is, he is the inspiration. Our father is the inspiration for whatever we are now...! Ours is the closely held limited company, not publicly held. Our shares are not with public, as no requirement of public funding. TVC: What is the thought process & How it all began? RA:
“ We are not a
product company but we are the Solution Providing Company
RA:This company is started by my father, Mr. Satyanarayan Agarwal. He is a veteran of more than 55 years. He established SVG Fashion Ltd in 1978. He has deep knowledge of how a textile manufacturing industry works starting from spinning to garment. It is our family business. We have been working under his guidance and have gradually moved up the ladder and helped in growing the business. However, my father is the sole reason behind the existence of this business and he is still very active member of the company. Though he does not look after day to day operations but he looks after the overall business. He keeps encouraging us to grow and expand and diversify and control. Our company is very conservative in terms of leveraging. We are almost debt free. My father always tells
We believe in reaching out the end user and hence, we go across the globe and meet our customers to understand their problems and needs. And we design solutions that will meet customer needs and resolve any problem thet he is facing. and fill the gaps in the business. we used to make woven fabrics. We noticed that there is a gap in the knit line particularly there was no one who was
making polyester knits. Similarly Schifli embroidery, we entered in the Schifli embroidery in the year 2002-03. At that time there were very few factories of Shifley embroidery. Thailand was doing very well and Europeans used to love this kind of work. They were making laces and at that point there were few companies in India and they were not using latest technology. We identified the gap and capitalised on it. The per capita consumption of furnishing fabrics was abysmal in india.there was a boom in the housing sector and foresaw the consequent boom in consumption of furnishing fabrics.So we entered furnishing fabrics. Once you adopt the problem solving attitude it directly changes your vision just production to customer satisfaction and ultimately its gives you business. TVC: What Challenges & Struggle you have faced? RA: Challenges change from time to time, now we are in Sports tech it’s a challenge because it’s new in India and polyester is perceived as not suitable for sportswear. we are having to create awareness about excellent wicking properties of suitably treated micro polyester Another challenge is the import export policy.in india we have various safeguard duties on polyester and its raw materials whereas there is no such protection for fabrics and garments.for a labour surplus country like india this policy diametrically opposite of what it should be.inadvertently we are encouraging exports of raw material and imports of finished products. TVC: CMAI, the Garment Association, always has the problem that what fabric they require is still not made in India. Are you agreeing with this? RA: There are thousands of types of fabrics. There could still be some fabric which is not made in India. I am not saying that everything can be made in India. But if encouraged, if imports are discour-
COVER STORY aged, it is possible to make in India. If CMAI discusses their specifications and puts it on their site, there are people in this country who can get it done. They just need to specify the type of fabric they are looking for. I am not saying no to fabric import, but it should come at the right value. And suppose it is against exports, and then there is no problem. Even if there is a safeguard duty, if it is against advanced license, then you don’t need to pay that duty. So let exporters import, there is no problem. Otherwise, there has to be safeguard duties or prevention of under-invoicing, which is the biggest problem. Under-invoicing is a big problem in India. People will go to any length to save even 2-3-4-5%.this has to be prevented. We want to add value in India. That is what we have to focus and we want to prevent all this underinvoicing and hanky-panky that needs to be checked. So the authorities need to come up with ideas to control this. TVC: Product Specification: Unique in Product / USP of Product. RA: Our USP is our problem-solving approach & providing appropriate solution. Eg. Solving a need/ a gap of imported fabrics by creating fabric in India for ladies and children’s wear. We provide solutions in terms of quality, supply, Tweaking the features of the product to meet the buyer’s needs. TVC: Pricing Strategy: Competitive / Premium / Lowest. RA:We are a B2B company primarily. So our pricing strategy cannot be premium. We can’t charge premium because it is not a brand. We sell our products on uniqueness, not on price. Price is competitive but not lowest. We provide premium product with competitive price. TVC: Market Focus: Domestic or Export or both (% of each in total revenue). RA:Our Market focus majorly on domestic but we do exports too, but ratio of turnover is 90%(Domestic):10% ( Export). In the domestic turnover, more than 50% is import substitution from China. The world does not know India is making good polyester so direct export is 10% due to challenge of awareness.
TVC: Market Share for your product in Domestic / international market
tomers. We are looking for fresh ideas, our mind is open.
RA: In a Sportswear category, I would say we have a market share of more than 20% In the branded segment. In sportswear,there are quality conscious buyers but there is a huge category of footpath buyers and that share we can’t determine. So, there we miss so many players. And similarly other categories also, we are also doing ladies night wear, ladies innerwear. So in that product-wise our share is good, it could be more. Specific product now, in night wear there are cotton knits and there is cotton spandex knits and there is polyester viscose knits and there is polyesters knit also. There are so many categories. So category-wise we have to see. But in each category wherever we are there, we have a good presence and we have market leadership. Every category, our product is the best and that is a core value of the company. We are not into substandard product. We want to exceed customer’s expectations, exceed the market standards.
TVC: Turnover of your company.
TVC: What is your product innovation approach? o In-house R&D centre / Design Team/ Outsource Design. RA: Yes. All the time. This is our full time business. I mean, the founders focus on generating new idea, finding solutions, and creating best product. So we have an R&D centre with qualified team, good set of sampling machines in all segments. Without innovation, you cannot survive. TVC : Inspiration from other international market ? RA: We do take inspiration from international market. We roam around & see the world and we always get inspired. I cannot say that ideas come to me. I’m not Illaiyah Raja. Illaiyah Raja is a music director who does not listen to music. He only creates his own music. We are not that. We are going to markets. We are seeing things and then we are creating multiple products out of it. We are taking inspiration from international market here. Internationally, We participate in HeimTextiles, Germany every year & Some exhibitions we visit to buy machines, visit factories, visit showrooms and visit cus-
RA:Our group turnover is more than 350 crore. TVC: What is your Future plan for next 5 years & 10 years? RA:We have to grow at a furious pace. Already this year we are investing close to 40-45 crores & expanding our knitting, dyeing, printing, garment, and embroidery facilities. This process will go on. We have to cross 1000 crores in five years that is our target. However, there are few challenges that will define the game plan. For example, GST is going to be a major game changer, how it pans out; it could reduce the problem of under-invoicing. Because if you under-invoice, you have to keep doing it at every stage and that may become difficult. So this under-invoicing problem will, if GST falls into place properly, will get reduced and that will reduce imports. At least protect cheap imports or under-valued imports that will give a lot of boost. So then achieving this target won’t be difficult, this involves a year-onyear growth of 25-30% which is possible. Awareness of polyester making in India and safeguard against under-valued imports. If these two things fall in place, we will be able to do it. TVC: Any future generation joining business in next 5 years? RA: My son is only 18 years old and is still studying BBA. My brother has a daughter and she is 11 years old. Maybe in the next 5-10 years. I believe that if you help your people grow, they become part of your family. So in that case, there are lot of people joining in the next 3-5 years. TVC: Why I was asking , because younger generation does not wants to join the textile industry? RA:That is correct. That will also change. See textile has become more and more modern and it has become bigger. Once pay scale will improve, efficiency will improve automatically, it is a vicious cycle. This industry has bright future, as nude will never be a fashion in India.
COVER STORY TVC: Outside industry person wants to enter into making a brand of fashion, ie B2C, not in B2B, we have lost charm of B2B? RA:Money is into brands. India needs to create brands. we maybe industrialists, but. If you look at it holistically, we we are mere converters. Brand owners are the real winners, taking a big pie of the industry. So the margins are in the brands. We are going to create home grown brands; there you get the real margin. Once the
brands are there, you start paying better so you get better people. So you have to do branding. So this is what I have identified for myself for our company as something we need to do. In another interview, I have mentioned this that we have to graduate from being B2B to B2C. But it is not easy. So you have to consolidate yourself properly and then get into a systematic manner. And that is where the real money is. It is where the real margins are. Zara the most profitable retailer in the worldcomes from Spain a country in
doldrums. This is possible because of the strong brand it has managed to create. TVC : As many international brand is already coming in India, so it is very difficult to survive for the Indian brands ? RA: I agree with you since international brands have deep pockets and robust systems in place apart from extensive domain knowledge due to their wide experience. However Indian brands can still survive because of better understanding of Indian consumer and demography as also lower costs.
3RD DEFENCE-ITTA JOINT SEMINAR & EXHIBITION ON TECHNICAL TEXTILE
he Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) in association with Indian Defence organized a two day Seminar& Exhibition on Technical Textile held on 22nd and 23rd May 2017 at Ashoka Convention Hall, Manekshaw Center, Delhi. This is the third edition of the Defence-ITTA joint Exhibition cum Seminar which was attended by more than 250 delegates from both the Indian Army and the Technical Textiles and footwear Industry. The two days Seminar on 22nd & 23rd May 2017 included various topics related to innovations in protective clothing and uniforms along with medical, building, geo textiles, tentage and load carrying fabrics. Extreme cold weather clothing, light weight sleeping bags, special snow socks, snow goggles, thermal insoles and rucksacks that are used at Siachen Glacier and other super high altitude areas were also covered. Industry showcased these products manufactured in India at a much cheaper price without affecting the quality. SEMINAR Session 1 – INAUGURAL SESSION The 3rd Defence-ITTA Joint Seminar & exhibition was inaugurated by Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Minister of Textiles, Govt of India, on May 22 at Manekshaw Centre. General Bipin Rawat, the Army Chief and senior officials from the Defence Services, MoD, MOT and technical textile Industry were present at the func-
tion. The Hon’ble Minister of Textiles talked about the need to explore the advanced R&D facilities for improving the existing inventory of the Army. She assured assistance from the Ministry, while reiterated the need for the industry to explore various business models and joint ventures. She further talked about the distinction between ‘supplying’ and ‘serving’ and how the industry should strive to ‘serve our defence forces’. She also told that the NTC (National Technical Cooperation) will set up high tech fibre manufacturing facility, which are currently being imported, and also develop specialised product range for the armed forces. General Bipin Rawat shared that the joint initiatives between the Textile Ministry, MoD and industry that will assume great significance if the principal items of Ordnance Equipment Factory (OEF) will be offered to the Trade on a permanent basis over the next 3 to 5 years. He said, “There is huge budget with the Army that has been spent on textiles. It is high
time that we look for the indigenous solutions “. Lt Gen R.R. Nimbhorkar, Master General of Ordnance (MGO) apprised the delegates of specific areas where improvements were needed. He urged the industry for early indigenization of the three layered special suits, sleeping bags, boots, multi-purpose and modular gloves that are being used in the super high altitude areas besides products improvement for Extreme Cold Clothing (ECC), mattress kapok, face mask, etc. The MGO reiterated that the industry has a lot of scope for participating in the Rs. 3000 Cr. general stores and clothing requirements. Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman, ITTA, wel-
COVER STORY comed the delegates and highlighted that the 1st& 2nd Defence ITTA Seminar had been highly successful resulting in close cooperation and indignation of large number if products. He also narrated the ITTA’s contributions during the last couple of years to the growth of various segments of Indian Technical Textile Industry and the objective of this seminar. Dr. S. K. Sundararaman, Vice Chairman, ITTA, spoke about Defence-ITTA relationship. He assured the Army officials of their constant support. He also talked about ITTA has the capability to provide the required solutions to the Defence Sector. The Joint Seminar cum Exhibition provided the necessary for a successful partnership between the Defence forces and the Technical Textile Industry. Session 2 – “REQUIREMENTS OF CLOTHING & GENERAL STORES FOR ARMY” The Second technical session was chaired by Maj Gen BV Rao, Additional Director General, Equipment Management. The following presentations were made during this session. 1. Outsourcing of OFB Products:Scope for Participation of Trade by Brig GS Shan, Deputy Director General OS (GS&C) highlighted the budget for GS & C (Trade) is 647.06 Cr and GS & C (DGOF) is 2573.97 Cr. But a large proportion of the cloth and accessories are purchased by DGOF from the industry. He briefed about the objective, types of procurement i.e. Rev-
enue procurement and Capital procurement, procurement setup, sources of supply, DGQA, revenue procurement, manner of depositing bids and payment terms for sellers. He also spoke about the
Purchase procedure of OFB and registration procedures. 2. Overview of Special Clothing & Mountaineering Equipment by Col AS Chonker, VSM. He highlighted that the requirement of special clothing and mountaineering equipments (SCME) will increase to 38,229 sets for Indian army and SCME’s entitled areas are Northern command, Western command and Eastern command. He said that SCME items- Each sets comprises of 55 items and those items are divided into two categories i.e. Cat I– personal use (20 items) and Cat II– general purpose items (35 items). Cat I consist of Jacket and trousers down, ECWCS (TLSS / Goretex suit), Gloves- inner & outer, sleeping bag,snow goggles,rucksack, etc. Cat II consist of Hyperbaric Chamber,Rope climbing,Combination harness,Cord avalanche,Survival blanket, Oxygen cylinder,Avalanche rod,Ladder ice wall, etc. He spoke on the procurement procedure for SCME EX Import and added some indigenized items like Hyperbaric Chamber, Thermal Insole, Socks Woollen Spl (two layer) & Rucksack 70 L. He highlighted some products improvement, introduction of new products i.e. Avalanche airbag with airsafe, Tugger shoes, etc. The ECC & E comprises of two items i.e. Cat I- 13 items and Cat II- 17 items. 3. Technical Textile Requirements for Defence Forces by Mr. Munish Hinduja, Director, Gokaldas Images Pvt. Ltd. emphasized about the current technology trends worldwide in SCME products. SCME products should have attributes such as lighter, enhanced breathability, fibre based technologies, dry comfort, soft shell fabric and insulation. He spoke about the SCME product focus 2018 viz. ECWCS3 Layer System, Sleeping Bag, Modular Gloves and Combat Boots. The technology i.e. Single Layer, Breathable Textile replacing
Weatherproof Shells with Wicking & Waterproofing by remaining Thin & Light, Nano Technology and zero-loft aerogel replacement for down fibres. 4. Latest Trends in Footwear applicable for Defence Forces by Mr. S. K. Neogi, Mayur Leather Products spoke on the global trends in footwear construction such as upper, bottom, insole made from different materials i.e. leather, textile/ fabrics & synthetics. He emphasized about the parameters for selecting appropriate soling materials for upper & bottom of footwear and roadmap for achieving a greater match of the products and their requirements. Session 3 – “COLLECTIVE PROTECTION, TENTAGE, LOAD CARRYING FABRICS & INTRODUCTION OF PRODUCTS INTO CSD” The third session was chaired by Maj Gen Dalip Singh, ADG OS (CN & A) and four papers were presented. 1. Requirements of Collective Protection & Load Carrying Fabrics for the Army by Col Sanjay Sinha, Director OS (GS&C) highlighted about the different types of stores such as Armament, Fire Fighting Vehicles &Equipments, Ammunition, Aviation Stores, Mechanical Transport Stores viz Tyres, Tubes, Batteries and Spares, General Stores & Clothing, etc. which maintains an inventory of 4.5 lakh items. The General stores consist of Tentage, Tarpaulins, Equipment Camouflage (EC) Nets, Synthetic & Multi Spectral Camouflage Nets, Protective Clothing, Parachutes, etc. He also spoke on the tent extendable frame supported (TEFS) in the Army viz. TEFS 2M & TEFS 4M and important features of Tarpaulins, protective clothing, etc. 2. Recommendation for Collective Protection & Load Carrying Fabrics for use by Defence Forces by Mr. S. J. Rao, Sr. VP, Garware Wall Ropes spoke about the fabric used for covering a set of object/ people to ensure their protection without affecting their respective functional characteristics are called as collective protection. The fabrics used for collective protection & load carrying are woven and knitted. Their desired properties are breaking and tear strength, breathability, fire retardant, etc. and its criteria for se-
COVER STORY lection are type of item /object to be protected/ carried, prevailing working condition, ease of operation, flexibility, weight, etc. Different types of material are used such as Jute, nylon, polyester, aramid, HDPE and its different application like Under Slung Cargo Nets, Helimat, Camouflage Nets, Shelters (Blast resistant), Inflatable Structures, Ultra-light weight fabrics, Synthetic Tarpaulin/Truck Covers, etc. for Indian Army. 3. Procedure for introduction Products into the CSD by AVM M Baladitya, VSM, CSD Adelphi, Mumbai briefed about the CSD (Canteen Services Directorate) which was formed in 1948 and CSD consist of following items such as Toilet Requisites, Household Requisites, General Use Items, Food & Medicine, etc.He told that the registration procedure is transparent and it’s available online on the CSD website. 97% of their clients are Soldiers and 26 firms are register with CSD for 100 items such as bed sheets, garment, underwear for men & women, kidswear, sportsweartrack suits, etc. 4. Developments in Tents, Tarpaulin and Canvas by Mr. Manish Khedkar, Asia Pasific Product Engineer Lead, Owens Corning. He emphasized about the Synergy with Make In India Initiative i.e. Zero Defect & Zero Effect and capability & inprocess quality control- Tape Extrusion, Scrim Manufacturing, Extrusion Coating. He highlighted the product portfolio for tents & tarpaulins which are coated woven scrim design upto 3X stronger than blownfilm XF products. These product performs in -40 0C to as hot as 100+ 0C. Suitable for desert & terrain conditions and can make fabric from 40 GSM to 800GSM+. Future trends are working on making Ultra-Light Fabric with a combination woven and non-woven substrates and structural fabric which can be used as water proofing membranes as well as temporary shelters for 7 to 10 years exposure warrantee. Session 4 – “MEDICAL TEXTILES AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING” The fourth session was chaired by Brig SD Mulgund, Dy DGAFMS (Standardisation) and six papers were presented. 1. Requirements of Medical Textiles in the
Defence Forces by Cdr. Vinay Kumar Gaur, Jt. Director AFMS highlighted the First Tri Service Organisation of the Armed Forces i.e. Armed Forces Medical Services (AFMS) which provides comprehensive healthcare service to all 03 Services of the Armed Forces. There is an increasing consideration for use and throw items which can be managed better in urban areas and Bio-Medical Waste disposal arrangements needs to be made. AFMS provides services to the Patrols-Insurgency, Disaster Response- National & International. The AFMS products are classified under Section 4 (Anaesthesia & Surgical Items), Section 9 (Gynae & Obstetrics), Section 12 (Bandages & Dressings), Section 13 (Sutures), Section 22 (Specialised Surgical Items) and Section 28 (Rehabilitation Eqpt). He talked about the Yearly Purchase Data at one institution are Drugs60%, Cotton & Bandages- 10%, Sutures5%, and Spl Surgical- 5%. He explained the procurement procedure in AFMS and importance of BIS Standards in Medical Textiles. 2. Recommended Medical Textiles for Defence Forces by Cdr. Manoj Kumar, Hitex HealthCare emphasized about the importance of woven & non-woven medical textiles (with Chemical, Mechanical & Thermal treatment). Applications are infection control, hygiene, Compression bandage, wound dressings, etc. He spoke about the advantages of non-woven disposables and customized procedure packs which reduce the turnaround time and thereby more number of surgeries can be conducted. He highlighted the following recommendations- standard two bid system across all hospitals / AFMSD, Standardisation, Allocation of PVMS (Price Vocabulary of the Medical Stores ) Code, Centeralised Vendor Registration and Regular campaigns for healthcare service provider to improve Awareness. 3. Latest Developments in Protective Clothing by Dr. Vikas B Thakare, Scientist F & Joint Director, DRDO, Gwalior. He presented the products developed by DRDE i.e. NBC& Bio Personal Protective Equipments, Gas Mask, Canister, Multifunctional NBC boots, NG NBC Haversack, Bio-Protective face mask & suits, long lasting insect repellant fabric, etc.
He highlighted the future technology develop for NBC products i.e. Activated Carbon Fabric(ACF) Technology for Next Generation NBC Products- Target Products are NBC Suits, Socks, Shoes, Wound Dressings, Face Mask, NBC Wipes&Other filters (Mass- 2.25 Kg&Comfort-Water vapor resistance- 8.0 m2Pa/W), Nano fibrous Web(NFW)- Needleless Electro Spinning, Elastomeric Selectively Permeable Membrane and Self Cleaning & Detoxifying Concepts. 4. Latest Developments in Protective Clothing by Dr. K. K. Gupta, Sc E, DMSRDE (DRDO) emphasized about the products developed by DMSRDE i.e. NBC Protective Textile Equipment- Recently developed are NBC Suit Mk-V, NBC Gloves Mk-II, NBC Haversack Mk-II, NBC Overboot Mk-II, High-Altitude/ Glacier Clothing Items, Special Tents, Shelters And Covers, Textile Based Camouflage Systems & Mountaineering & Life Saving Textile Equipments. He also talked about the Mobile Camouflage System (MCS) for T-90 Tank and it’s specifications are Visual (0.38-0.71 µm): Tank fitted with MCS not to be detected by naked eye beyond 1000 m and high resolution binocular beyond 2000 m, NIR (0.71-2.4 µm): Not to be detected by infrared ( IR) devices both active and passive beyond 500 m, Thermal IR (3-5 µm & 8-12 µm): Not to be detected by thermal Imaging devices beyond 2000 m, Radar (2-18 GHz, 35 GHz & 94 GHz): RCS reduction: Desired: -10 dB, Min: -7 dB. He also highlighted the Synthetic Camouflage Net for Snow Bound Area, Radar Scattering Camouflage Net, Textile Items for Glacier Region (Total Production Value (DMSRDE) ~ Rs 100 core), Poncho Glacier, Splint inflatable, Mattress Glacier, Rope Climbing, Cord Avalanche, etc. 5. Advance Materials for Protection Solutions by Mr. Manoj Jhaver, E.I. Dupont India briefed about the Dupont Protection Solutions Business and its leading brands are Kevlar®, Nomex®, Tyvek® & Corian®. He emphasized the Military needs for Modernized Uniforms, Advance Material Solution for Military Uniform and Roadmap for Military Uniform Modernization. New Offerings for Military Uniform Application are Nomex® MTP (Multi Threat Protection), Nomex®
COVER STORY Multi-Hazard Protection (MHP), ThermoMan™ instrumented mannequin, PUG (Protective Undergarment) and Flyers Jacket Outer Shell Replacement. 6. Protective Textiles recommended for Army by Mr. Basant Lohia, Tarasafe International. He briefed about the needs of Indian Army in Protective Clothing and how industry can meet their requirement of Protective clothing. Tarasafe has 2 modern production facilities supplying to International customers of Protective workwear/Clothing. Focus Areas for Protective Clothing are Standardisation of Products and requirements, Finalisation of norms for Protective Clothing, Enforcement of Standards, Material Testing facilities as per International standards & Role of Center of Excellence (COE) – bridge between the Indian Armed Forces and the Industry. He highlighted about the Mosquito repellent garments, Garment ventilation system (Enhanced mobility & comfort, Proper fit & coverall size). Session 5 – “GEOTEXTILES, BUILDING TEXTILES AND QA PROCEDURES” The fifth technical session was chaired by Maj Gen S. P. S. Kohli, ADGW (Army). The following presentations were made during this session. 1. Geotextile Requirements of Defence forces by Col Rajeev Kumar, Engineers (BRO). He talked that BRO (Border Roads Organization) has grown with 18 projects till now. BRO is working underMinistry of Defence. The role of BRO is to develop and maintain operational road infrastructure and its tasks are to construct the road, bridges, tunneling, road maintenance, etc. He highlighted technology initiatives in BRO areProven technology - tested and codified and Unproven technology - yet to be codified.Design and Specification Section at HQ DGBR responsible for introduction of new technology or construction material in BRO. ADGBR (East) Functional at Guwahati to monitor works in North East.ADGBR (North-West) Functional at Chandigarh to monitor works in North Western region of India. He briefed about some of the geotextile projects such as BRAHMANK, UDAYAK, SEWAK, DEEPAK, VARTAK, PUSHPAK, SHIVALIK.
2. Geotextiles Recommended for Defence Forces by Mr. Shahrokh Bagli, Chief Technology Officer, Strata Geosystem. He highlighted the importance of Geosynthetics which are flexible, semi-flexible polymeric materials in two & three dimension form i.e. Geotextiles, Geogrids, Geocells, Geonets, Geomembranes, etc. and its general applications are roads, railways, ports and harbours, rockfall& landslide mitigation, landfills, riverbanks, etc.. He spoke about the case study where geogrids are used i.e. Tracks in Desert Sands of Rajasthan and presented the whole range of products produced by Strata i.e. Geocells and its case study are SEM Drain, Rajasthan & NH Division, NH-44 Assam – Tripura Highway.And other innovative applications of geocells are Camouflage Hangers, Reinforced Soil Walls, Aamby Valley, Hill Road Drains, Canals on Flat Terrain, Front line structures, Blast proof barriers. 3. Buildtech Requirements of Defence forces by Maj Gen S. P. S. Kohli, ADGW presented the fabric structure are forms of constructed fibres that provide users a variety of asthetic free form building designs and Fabrics are laminated with synthetic material for increase of strength durabilty and environmental resistance& different advantages of Tensile Fabrics Architecture. Some examples where tensile structure are used very efficiently are Interiors, Atriums, Bridges, Auditoriums, Open air theatre, Stadiums, Swimming pool, Exhibitions & Petrol pumps, roof tops, Canopies and covered pathways. 4. Buildtech Recommended for Defence forces by Mr. Sheelam Seth, Sr. VP, SRF Ltd. He explained in detail about the Buildtech products such as Architectural membranes, tarpaulins, Scaffolding nets, Fibre reinforced concrete, Concrete Fabrics, Awning & Canopies, Floor & Wall coverings, Radome Hemispherical Dome, Hoardings & Signages, Tents, Truck covers and different flame retardant fabrics for outdoor applications which are used for Defence purposes. He briefed about the Cool Coated Fabric, Easy Clean Fabric & Mouse Deterrant Fabric which are both side PVC coated. 5. QA Procedures by Brig Sudhindra Itnal, Controller, CQA (T&C), Kanpur briefed
about the DGQA where Quality is the must. DGQA Organisation is responsible for Quality Assurance of Defence Stores produced by Ordnance Factories, Public & Private Sector & Ex-Import. He spoke about the QA Tools - Quality Control, Quality Assurance, Quality Audit, Surveillance, Claims, Pre-Dispatch Inspection& Joint Receipt Inspection &Self Certification. He explained about the procedure for tender evaluation & contract negotiation, request for proposal and supply order placement. Session 6 – “CONCLUDING SESSION” The seminar ended with summing up the proceedings by Maj Gen BV Rao, Additional Director General, Equipment Management. Dr Anup Rakshit, Executive Director ITTA said that the regular monitoring of the progress will help expediting the process of indigenizing the products for Army. He extended vote of thanks to MGO Branch of Indian Army who jointly worked with ITTA to make the event a grand success. Also to all participants from the Indian technical industry, Speakers and Chairman of the seminar and all exhibitors displaying their innovative products in the exhibition. EXHIBITION Exhibition was inaugurated by Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Minister of Textiles, Govt. of India and General Bipin Rawat, the Army Chief. Exhibition is to create the awareness on the requirements of the Indian Defence sector of technical textiles, their innovation for product up-gradation and industry will get opportunities to showcase their products and capabilities. The exhibition showcased the entire technical textile and Footwear products developed by various manufacturers showing the possible improvements of the different products used by the Indian Army. Some of the prominent exhibitors are- Garware, Strata Geosystems, Kusumgar, Shiva Texyarn, Dupont, NTC, NITRA, Renfro India, Radnik, Teijin, Barracuda Camouflage, etc. In addition, Indian Army, SCME, ECC & E and other Departments displayed their entire range of products currently used by them.
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Technical Textiles Exhibition cum Buyer-Seller Meet on 23rd-24th March 2017 at PHD House, New Delhi
echnical Textiles is the sunrise segment of the global textile industry. With increasing competition and diminishing margins in the production of conventional textiles, textile manufacturers in industrialised countries have switched over to production of value-added technical textiles. In India the technical textile industry contributes to roughly 12% of Indian textile industry at present which is very less compared to other developing countries like China where technical textile industry accounts for around 20% of the textile sector.
PHD Chamber in the past has actively taken up issues related to Textile Industry and technological upgradation for the growth of the industry as well as socio-economic growth of the economy. Against this backdrop and to promote usage and application areas of technical textiles,PHD Chamber in association with O/o Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA) organised a 2 day Exhibition cum Buyer-Seller Meet on Technical Textiles on 23rd-24th March 2017 at PHD House, New Delhi. The Exhibition was inaugurated by Air Commodre Deepak Gaur, Principal Director-Medical Services, Indian Air Force, Surgeon Rear Admiral, Joy Chatterjee, Indian Navy, Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA; Dr. V K Kohli, Director, Regional O/o Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Dr. V. K. Kothari, Professor - Textiles Department, IIT Delhi, Mr. Viren Mehta, Vice President- Marketing, Fibre2Fashion, Mr. Sanjay Aggarwal, Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber, Mr. Ram Poddar, Co-Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber and Mr. Vivek Seigell, Director, PHD Chamber.
Mr. Sanjay Aggarwal, Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber Mr. Sanjay Aggarwal, Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber in his welcome address mentioned that Textile industry in India is vital for its economic growth as it generates employment in large no.s. Mr. Aggarwal also added that the technical textile industry has been expanding proportionally in respect to the entire textile industry. He mentioned that India’s Textile growth at present is estimated at $108 billion which is expected to rise to $220 billion by 2021. He further added that Technical textiles accounted for around 29 per cent share of the global textile revenues.
Mr. Ram A Poddar, Co-Chairman, Industry Affairs Com-
mittee, PHD Chamber Mr Ram A Poddar, Co-Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHDCCI, said that India’s textiles sector is one of the oldest industries in Indian economy dating back several centuries. He added that even today, textiles sector is one of the largest contributors to India’s exports with approximately 11 per cent of total exports and is labour intensive.
Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA Dr. Arindam Basu, DG, NITRA in his address said that Textiles have over decades evolved from being used only for protection earlier to presently focusing on aesthetics and fashion side. He added that new fibres and technologies including Technical Textiles, have helped produce good quality textile products which are much more suitable for user.
Dr. Basu said that Technical Textiles presents a win-win situation for both industry as well as buyers. He explained that for Industry technical textiles gives higher residue and profit per unit is much more.or buyers he mentioned that Technical textiles increases efficiency as well as provide an added protection increasing the overall quality of end product. Dr. Arindam Basu said that over last 3 years Indian Technical Textile industry has come up and many international standard products have come up in India which has led to an increase in import substitution of textiles.
Air Cdr Deepak Gaur, Principal Director-Medical Services, Indian Air Force Air Cdr Deepak Gaur, Principal Director,Indian Air Force focused on importance of Protective and Medical textiles within the broad classification of Technical Textiles. He said that one of the most importnt thing for a medical textiles manufacturer is to reduce hospital acquired Infections as the bacteria,virus and fungi adversely affects the environment. Air Cdr Deepak Gaur mentioned that in India there is space for both disposable as well as reusable technical textiles. Air Cdr Deepak Gaur sais that the lack of dynamic standards is a persistent problem with repsect to Technical Textiles industry and needs to be addressed and should be done after consultations with all relevant stakeholders including centres of excellence. He further mentioned that the Indian Defence forces including Army, Navy and Air Force aim to equip its soldiers with state of
POST EVENT REPORT the art NBC (Nuclear Biological Chemical) warfare equipment to sustain in adverse circumstances. Air Cdr Deepak Gaur said that Indian Air Force has suggested DRDO to tie up with foreign protective textiles manufacturers so that sophsticated and superior products can be made in India for our soldiers.
Dr. V. K. Kothari, Professor,Textiles Department, IIT Delhi Dr. Kothari in his address highlighted the importance of Technical Textiles for India and the world .He said that the Technical Textile manufacturers in India must look a to how they can diversify their product range to areas which are more promising.
but honesty towards patients and customers must be a priority for the hospitals. He further explained this by citing the case of many spurious products, not only drugs but also medical disposables which have come up in the market and are of poor quality. He added that these products get passed because of their lowest bid and does not set a good precedent and suggested the Chamber to intervene appropriately. Surgeon Rear Admiral Joy Chatterjee concluded by urging the Technical Textiles industry to collaborate with DRDO and make state of the art products for Indian Navy as the demand for no. of utility suits and clothing is huge.
He also mentioned that Indian manufacturers must focus on innovation and developing new products to make it competitive in the market.Dr. Kothari suggested the technical textile industry to collaborate with institutions like IIT Delhi for research related oppoutnity/problems which industry would like to work upon.
Caption: A view of the gathering during the Inaugural Session
Left to Right: Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA; Surgeon Rear Admiral, Joy Chatterjee, Additional Director General - Medical Services, Indian Navy; Mr. Ram Poddar, Co-Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber; Mr. Sanjay Aggarwal, Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber; Air Commodre Deepak Gaur, Indian Air Force, Dr. V. K. Kothari,Professor - Textiles Department, IIT Delhi and Mr. Vivek Seigell Director, PHD Chamber
Surgeon Rear Admiral Joy Chatterjee, Additional Director General-Medical Services, Indian Navy Surgeon Rear Admiral Joy Chatterjee, Additional Director General-Medical Services, Indian Navy in his address said that requirement of textiles for the 3 defence forces of India is similar. He mentioned that Indian Navy has 10 dedicated hospitals as compared to 12 for Indian Air Force and 140 from Indian Army. He added that level of medical care varies in these hospitals and range from small 40-50 beds to huge tertiary care hospitals of 800 beds. Surgeon Rear Admiral Joy Chaterjee said that over decades medical practices in India have grown tremendously to the extent that they have nearly caught up with the western developed countries. Adding further he mentioned that good quality surgical drapes and dressings have contributed to this. Surgeon Rear Admiral Joy Chatterjee said that although affordability is one of the critical factors for procurement department
Caption: Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA; Surgeon Rear Admiral, Joy Chatterjee, Additional Director General - Medical Services, Indian Navy; Mr. Ram Poddar, Co-Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber; Mr. Sanjay Aggarwal, Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber; Air Commodre Deepak Gaur, Indian Air Force, Dr. V. K. Kohli ,Director, Regional Office of Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India and Mr. Vivek Seigell Director, PHD Chamber
Dr. V K Kohli, Director, Regional Office of Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India Dr. V. K. Kohli in his address at the Inaugural Session highlighted the potential of Indian Textile Industry. He said that India has the capacity to produce wide variety of products which cater to both India as well as overseas markets. He said that technical textiles are manufactured primarily for their performance and efficiency. Dr. Kohli mentioned that market for Technical Textiles in India stood at Rs 92,499 crore in 2015-16 and is expected to grow at a 12% CAGR and reach Rs 1, 16,217 crore by 2017-18 and added that India would play a key role in shaping the global technical tectiles industry with increasing power of purchasing of indian consumers.
POST EVENT REPORT Dr. V K Kohli said that development and industrialization are the main drivers for the demand of Technical Textile products in a country and the demand for technical textiles is expected to stay steady during the period 2015-2020, due to a broadening application in end-use industries, such as automotive, construction, healthcare, and sports equipment etc. He also mentioned that the Govt of India has launched many schemes like TUFS (Technological Upgradation Fund Schemes) and Amended TUFS focusing on increasing Textile Exports from India Dr. Kohli added that the Govt of India is also setting up of India’s first integrated textile city in Andhra Pradesh
“OPPORTUNITIES IN THE CURRENT CHALLENGES IN WEAVING SECTOR” 22nd April 2017, Hotel Fortune Park Galaxy, Vapi (Gujarat) Organized by the Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit
he Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit organized One Day Seminar on “Opportunities in the Current Challenges in Weaving Sector” on 22nd April 2017 at Hotel fortune Park Galaxy, Vapi (Gujarat). The seminar was inaugurated by Mr. Ajit B. Chvan, Secretary and CEO, Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textile, Government of India, Mumbai. Inaugural Session
Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit welcomed the Chief Guest and Guests of Honour Mr. Mahesh Pandya, Director, Arvind Mafatlal Group of Industries and Mr. G. V. Aras, Director, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. He also welcomed the Awardees, Speakers, Press, Media and delegates. Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convener of the Seminar while giving the highlights said that in spite best efforts in modernization through various schemes such as TUFs, Technology mission for technical Textiles, the industry is still lacking in the area of upgradation of technology in weaving. In fact, it is desirable to replace machines with appropriate choice of technology and development of modern management styles particularly for decentralized weaving sectors. Mr. Parekh said that this
seminar aims to give an opportunity to the textile technologists to share their thoughts to meet these challenges and wished that the interaction in the seminar will be highly productive and beneficial. Mr. Tapan Kumar Chandra, the Advisor of the Seminar said that the textile is essential in our day-to- day life. Twenty first century’s fashion is very dynamic, trendy & versatile. Today, manufacturing of various textiles are also vast in all the areas with inclusion of speed, which is very high to serve huge population. Keeping all these in mind, lot of new development and research for the manufacturing of textile machinery; accessories would be the ongoing activities. In addition, it requires training of all the work force to have latest knowledge of latest developed machine. The Textile association has taken bold step to fulfil today’s requirement and will continue to take further commitment to serve textile industry for all the new developments. Mr. G. V. Aras, Director, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. in address said that the textile industry is gearing up to its past status due to vibrant domestic and global markets. He reiterated that in the coming years,
the acronym IT would stand for “Indian Textiles” as the Indian textile industry is gearing up fully to meet the global requirements with modern technologies. Mr. Mahesh Pandya, Director, Arvind Mafatlal Group of Industries who was the Guest of Honour congratulated the TAI, Mumbai Unit for organising exclusive seminar on Weaving at Vapi. The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit has set a precedent of felicitating the textile professionals for their outstanding contribution in the field of textile industry. In this Seminar, the TAI, Mumbai Unit felicitated Mr. Shyam Master, a very Senior Weaving Consultant and Mr. Hasmukh Shah, CEO, Kiran Threads with “The Lifetime Achievement Awards” as token of appreciation for their land mark achievements in the field of textiles. Mr. Ajit B. Chavan, the Chief Guest in his inaugural address informed that Textiles Committee can take up the issues related to policy intervention to create industry friendly climate for meeting the global challenges. He appreciated the efforts of Textile Association (India), Mumbai unit in creating a platform by arranging the seminar in the vibrant textile ClusterVapi, Gujarat.
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Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai unit, proposed vote of thanks. Technical Session During the technical session, following seven papers were presented by the eminent speakers. y Mr. Guruprasad S. Shetty, Senior Manager (Fabric Forming), ATE Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “Latest Developments in Warp Preparation (Karl Mayer)”. He briefed the developments in warping and their comparative advantages in achieving enhanced efficiency and quality. y Mr. Amit R. Singh, Senior Sales Manager, Itema Weaving (India) Pvt. Ltd. expressed his views on “Innovations in Weaving”. He emphasized the developments in the weaving machines towards achieving higher productivity and better quality. y Mr. Babasaheb Alugade, Regional Sales Manager, Picanol India Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “Picanol – Ultimate solution for the challenges in weaving sector”. y Mr. Kamal Shah, General Manager (Mktg.), Prashant Group of Companies discussed the importance of “World Class Preparatory Machinery”. He emphasized the achievements of the innovations in meeting the global demands. y Mr. P. K. Singh, President, Luwa India Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on
“An Effective Humidification System for Weaving”. He discussed the role of maintaining proper humidity to achieve the desired level of productivity and quality. Precise environmental conditions, according to him good be achieved by the Luwa humidification system. y Mr. Sanjay L. Gajul, Sr. Marketing Manager (Technical), S. A. Pharmachem P. Ltd. made the presentation on “Size Recovery – Cost Effective and Eco Friendly” In his presentation, Mr.Sanjay discussed the salient features of the size recovery system developed by them. y Mr. Mohit Mahajan – Territory Manager–West, ExxonMobil Lubricants Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “Advancing productivity with Mobil SHC in Textile Industry”. Mr. Mohit spoke on the importance of lubricant in achieving the desired tribological performances in the weaving sector with special reference the synthetic lubricants being developed by them. Panel Discussions Panel discussions on “Upgrade Weaving Technology to meet export target” was moderated by Dr. G. S. Nadiger, Research Advisor, SASMIRA. The Panel of experts comprised of Mr. A. A. Bambardekar, Works Director, Raymond Limited, (Textile Division-Vapi), Mr. A. G. Kurien Aracken,
Vice President – Q.A. (Weaving), Alok Industries Limited, Mr. T. K. Sengupta, Technical Advisor, Fibre2Fashion Pvt. Ltd. and Mr. Shyam Master, Weaving Consultant. Dr. Nadiger briefed the audience that 3Es and Q are the key aspects to face the challenges and avail the opportunities to meet the global demand. The 3Es included Energy, Efficiency and Environment and Q stood for quality of the out put. He summarized that the seminar has so far highlighted theses issues by various speakers and further reinforcement and to conceptualize the future strategies could be done during this session by way of the brief of the experts and interaction with delegates. Each of the panel members gave their views on the theme of the panel discussion. It was followed by one to one interaction. Panel members substantiated various aspects. The interaction was quite fruitful to bring home the futuristic strategies for meeting the challenges. Delegates suggested to have similar programs be organised at Vapi as it would be quite useful for the industry. The seminar was attended by over 200 delegates and the interactive delivery of various papers and one to one interaction during panel discussion made the seminar event very effective.
PLASMA TECHNOLOGY IN DYEING AND FINISHING OF SYNTHETIC TEXTILE ABSTRACT
his paper throws a light on enhancing the dyeing & finishing viabilities of textile materials made out of Polyester, (Polyethylene Terephathalate) fibres as this fibre is highly hydrophobic in nature so it is very difficult to dye. Also it has got a very high Tenacity, so it has a wide area of applications in apparel as well as other industrial and home furnishing textiles. Therefore, an attempt has been made to improve the texture, dyeability and finishing parameters of Polyester textile material by plasma technology. Plasma technologies present an environmentally-friendly and versatile way of treating textile materials in order to enhance a variety of properties such as wettability, liquid repellency, dyeability and coating adhesion. Recent advances made in commercially viable plasma systems have greatly increased the potential of using plasma technology in industrial textile finishing. In order to increase the hydrophilicity, soil resistance and to improve dyeability, PET fabrics are treated in low-temperature plasmas. Fabrics are directly treated in acrylic acid, water, air, nascent oxygen and argon plasma. The plasma conditions are changed to control the extent of plasma surface modification. Wettability, soil resistance and dyeability of PET fabrics are significantly improved by this method. Plasma can be defined as a partially or wholly ionized gas with a roughly equal number of positively and negatively charged particles. it is a form of matter that has higher energy than the corresponding solid, liquid and gas form. However the energy that is found in solids, liquids and gases is largely carried in the form of kinetic energy â€“ or heat. But in plasma the energy is also due to electrons being split from the atomic nucleus creating ions and free electrons. This means that plasma can carry a lot of energy and is highly reactive, but not necessarily hot. Plasma systems employ the beam of ions and free electrons to clean and activate surfaces without burning them. Key words:Hydrofobic,Ionised gas,wettability, soil resistance TYPES OF PLASMA: There are two types of plasma â€“ 1)
Low temperature plasmas are ionized gases generated at pressures between 0.1 and 2 torr. These types of plasmas work within a vacuum chamber where atmospheric gases have been evacuated typically below 0.1 torr. Low pressure allows for a relatively long free path of accelerated electrons and ions. Since the ions and neutral particles are at or near ambient temperatures and the long free path of electrons, which are at high temperature or electron volt levels, have relatively few collisions with molecules at this pressure the reaction remains at low temperature. MECHANISM OF PLASMA: As our focus is on enhancing the dyeing & finishing viabilities of textile materials made out of Polyester, (Polyethylene Terephathalate) fibres as it is very difficult to dye, due to its hydrophobicity. Therefore, a key step required for effective dyeing and printing is to wet the polyester material. Since polyester being highly hydrophobic in nature, when water droplets are poured on the surface of polyester fabric, it forms beads and rolls down. Plasma technology promotes wettability by first cleaning the surface to remove contaminants, and then it increases surface energy by changing its structure. Cleaning of surface by plasma--Plasma the beam is created from the air by a pulsed current that excites the molecules. The resulting ions and free electrons then remove static electricity and dust, as well as vaporize contaminants, including waxes and silicone residues. How plasma makes materials wettable: Many liquids are self-loving, so they do not spread out on a surface unless their energy is similarly high. The liquid can be visualized as having only Velcro-like loops, so in order to spread out; the surface needs to have a lot of hooks. Then the loops can attach to the hooks & these hooks can then bond firmly to paint, glue and ink. Plasma can improve the strength of bonding by a hundredfold. Water particularly self-love so paints, glues and inks that are water-based are incompatible with low-energy materials, including polymers commonly used in manufacturing.
HIGH TEMPERATURE PLASMA: Lightning is naturally occurring high temperature plasma. This type of plasma can be artificially generated using a high voltage, high temperature arc, which is the basis for the corona discharge process and for the plasma torch used to vaporize and redeposit metals. LOW TEMPERATURE PLASMA:
TECHNICAL ARTICLE Water has a high surface energy of 72 dynes/cm so when it meets a low-energy material like polypropylene (PP) that has a surface energy of below 28 dynes/cm the water will not be attracted and it will bead. When the polypropylene is treated with plasma its energy can be increased to over 72 dynes/cm, at which point the water will wet it completely. It can be extremely useful to make materials wettable because then they can be bonded, printed or painted a lot more easily and without using organic solvents that are damaging to the environment. TREATMENT OF PLASMA ON POLYESTER MATERIAL: Plasma processes have been developed to attain a variety of specific surface properties. Here are some examples. 1) Surface Cleaning - Oxygen plasma treatment is a safe and environmentally friendly cleaning method. A wide variety of industries utilize gas plasma treatment to remove organic surface contamination from polyester materials that require critical cleaning. The active species in the oxygen combined with UV energy creates a chemical reaction with the surface contaminants, resulting in their volatilization and removal from the reaction chamber. Applications include cleaning of circuit boards for improved wire bonding, removal of organic contamination from glass slides and flat panels, cleaning of medical devices etc. 2) Adhesion promotion - Improving adhesion between two surfaces is a common application. Good adhesion requires strong interfacial forces via chemical compatibility and chemical bonding. Plasma surface treatment can also assist in creating chemically active functional groups such as amine, carbonyl, hydroxyl and carboxyl groups, to improve interfacial adhesion of polyester fabric. Plasma is also used to improve bondability on substrates such as glass, polymers, ceramics and various metals. Common applications include pretreatment for medical catheters, syringe components, dialysis pump parts and plastic films for drug bags. 3) Controlling surface energies - Plasma processing can also be used to tailor surface energies. Hydrophilic and hydrophobic surfaces can be created on polymers through interaction with gas plasma. Using oxygen to create hydroxyl functionality increases the wettability of a polyester surface. Similarly, surfaces can be specifically engineered to modify protein binding and improve blood compatibility. Common applications include tissue culture wares, filtration or separation media and contact lenses. 4) Enhancing performance - Surface cross linking is often used to enhance the performance of polymers of polyester materials. The activity of the plasma creates a higher cross linking density within the material to depths of a few thousand angstroms. The resulting increase in hardness and chemical resistance can enhance performance in many applications. Some applications are: Silicone rubber components treated in inert gas plasma can be modified to form a hard “skin” on the surface, By using a plasma immobilization process precoated molecules can be directly crosslinked onto polymer surfaces
DYEING OF POLYESTER FIBRE: The refractive index of polyester fiber is higher than most other synthetic fibers. Then dyed polyester looks paler than nylon even though the same amount of dye exists in the fiber due to the diffused reflection on the surface of the fiber. The table shows the refractive index of several polymers. Material
Poly (vinyl chloride)
Poly (methyl metacrylate)
Improvement of the apparent depth of dyed polyester is implemented in three ways; • modification of fiber, • selection of dyes • application of an auxiliary (finish) for deep dyeing. 1. Use of modified (deep dyeing) fiber The following fibers are developed and commercialized and these are effective for obtaining deep shades. • Giving ruggedness (ultra-micro craters) on the surface of fiber to control the surface reflectance of light. (1) Chemical erosion by weight reduction treatment (2) Physical etching by plasma treatment • Controlling the orientation of polymer to increase the dyeability • Using thick yarn with low Young’s modulus 2. Selection of dyes for deep dyeing Conventional dark shades are designed to give average depth of dark shades with practical fastness and low cost, because for these dyes satisfaction of economic needs is the most important factor. For deep full shades the selection should be made, not from these cheap dyes, but from the specialized dyes. • Dyes with excellent build up; the components should be examined to see whether the highest build up can be attained. Equalized dyes for full dark shade. • Dyes with absorption in long wavelengths in visual light; in conventional black dyes, navy blues based on azo chromophore are employed, which can give practical blacks. But in this case, the absorption of area of 650-700nm is small, and this area
TECHNICAL ARTICLE should be covered by greenish blue to obtain deep full blacks.
FINISHING OF POLYESTER FABRIC:
Main dye producers have developed such dyes, but they are rather expensive.
Most of the problems that arise when polyester fabrics are treated with plasma do not apply when the surface has to be oxidized in the plasma for example to create polar and reactive functional groups. In that case the background pressure in the reactor is not so important and also the water from the webs can be utilized in the treatment. The only real danger is an over treatment. In a prolonged plasma exposure, polymers form low molecular weight substances which can deteriorate the surface properties, can be washed off and expose a surface which is treated to a lower extent.
3. Finishing with auxiliaries: In finishing process of dyed polyester material, for example a shade of dye of black which looks wet like a deep full black, which is called “wet crow black”. This phenomenon comes from the low refractive index of water (1.33), and is applied in a technology for making deep full blacks. A permanent coating of polymer with a low refractive index on the polyester fiber can give deep full blacks. Examples of polymer with low refractive indexes are shown in the following table.
More sophisticated treatments have a much narrower range of treatment conditions and need much more care in process control. The hydrophobation in fluorocarbon plasma is an example for such a type of treatment.
Poly (acrylic acid)
A fluorocarbon plasma treatment can reduce the soaking of fabrics in a similar way like a traditional impregnation. However, in contrast to the wet treatment, the fabric retains its flexibility after the plasma treatment.
Polyurethane, siloxane, or fluorocarbon based chemicals are commercialized as auxiliaries (finishes) for deep full blacks. These finishes are a mixture of several components to attain best performance. An alternative approach is to cover the surface of fiber with rugged film. The finishing process using those chemicals is mainly carried out by padding. y Material : black dyed polyester fabric y Padding : 1dip/1nip y Drying : 100°C x 3min. y Curing : 170°C x 3sec. The level of deep full black on regular polyester obtained by specialized black dye is around 12 by L value, and further improvement is attained by those after treatments to 9.6-10.5 by L value.
TYPES OF FINISHES: 1)Water repellent polyester fabric
2) Wettability improvement In oxygen plasma the number of functional groups at the surface can be increased. The increased polarity makes the material more wettable which can be used to improve dying and sizing. In the table we summarized examples where various polyester fabrics were oxidized. The effect of the treatment was checked by a water rise test, i.e. a strip of the fabric was put into water end the time was measured until the water rise up 3 cm. The test was repeated a certain time after the treatment. The results show a good stability of the treatment. Water rise time (s): material untreated reated treated, after 80 days PA 1 96s 16s 18s PA 2 18s 7s 10s PA 3
3) Adhesion improvement in laminates and composites
Machine Related Plasma Processing
In oxygen plasma the number of functional groups at the surface can be increased which can improve the adhesion to other material. The results are stronger laminates and better composite materials. As an example, there are results of lamination tests with polyester fabric. (PES)
TECHNICAL ARTICLE material treatment peel force N/10 mm fabric failor PES
The shape of the water drops on the PE film is determined by a few layers of atoms at the surface. It is a region which is about 1 nm thick. Altering the chemistry in such a shallow layer can considerably improve the materialâ€™s properties. Polyethylene film with water drops in three different zones The activation of a surface means that it is oxidized in order to form functional groups which can interact with other substance, be it water, paint or an adhesive. The use of highly energetic means as electrical discharges for surface activation results in a complex mixture of functional groups which can only be tuned in a rather narrow range. 4)
Coat-finishing polyester fabrics,
The present invention relates to a new method of coat-finishing polyester fabrics to produce anti-migration properties. This method is comprised of two steps as follows. (1) A uniform resin composition is formed by adding a cyclic compound of a non-reductive, maltooligosaccharine, a cyclodextrin in which 6-8 units of glucose exists in Îą-1,4 glucosidebonded form, to the coating resin composition. (2) This uniform resin composition is coated on the fabric surface by known methods. The coating effect is especially high in the case of 100% polyester fabrics dyed with disperse dyes. A coat-finishing method for polyester woven and knitted fabrics has been developed because of the excellent mechanical properties, dimensional stability, weather resistance, aesthetical properties and low prices of polyester fiber. However, these coat-finished, woven and knitted polyester fabrics suffer from problems. For example, the problem of staining white or light color fabrics adjacent to the coat-finished fabrics exists, due to the migration of the coating layer during the processes of coat-finishing, sewing, handling, storage and use. Dyeing of polyester fiber by disperse dyes can be summarized as a process of inserting dye into the polymer chain by physical
affinity, without chemical bonding between the fiber and the dyestuff. Since the disperse dye migrates easily, especially to the coating layer, the quality of goods is lost and the migration from fiber to coating layer during sewing, handling, storage and use and from the coating layer to fiber goods adjacent to the coated fabrics occurs easily and results in staining. To alleviate the above-mentioned migration problem of coat-finished fabrics composed of polyester fiber, a number of coating methods have been applied such as:1) Preventing migration by using a special process of wetting with a tannin compound before or after the coat-finishing process. 2) Migration may be prevented by using N-alkoxydimethylated polyamide as a coating resin. 3) there is a method for formation of a special coating layer which prevents migration by coating a highly hydrophilic amino acid resin on an existing coating layer 4) Performing the coat-finishing process after the dyed fabric is treated with a low temperature plasma at constant pressure. However, the above mentioned processes suffer from a number of problems such as, (a) It is expensive to add new process steps to the coat-finishing process or to localize a kind of coating resin and to mix the resin with an inorganic materials. (b) The quality of goods is lost by decreasing the drapeability of coated fabrics. (c) The degree of confidence in production is decreased since the process of anti-migration coating is complicated and great care must be taken in the mixing process of the resin and the coat-finishing process. But the basic concept to obtain good anti-migration properties is by coupling dyestuffs with a tannin compound to slow down the mobility of the dyestuffs in coating layer. However, it is expensive to treat the fabric with synthetic tannin and tannic acid since a special wetting process is necessary and the productivity is lowered by adding this new process step. Moreover, the wetting treatment with tannin compound suggested in the above disclosure is a known method which is generally used for the improvement of color-fastness to washing of fiber goods dyed with acid-dyes, reactive dyes and partial basic dyes. But this treatment is known to be not effective or only slightly so in the case of disperse dyes. 1 Plasma technology is very much economical for dyeing of any synthetic fiber by high temperature high pressure dyeing machine. 2. Dye absobtion capasity depends upon the dye panetration effect which will come with the hedrofillic carecter of the plasma treated polyster. The good result of dyeing will depend upon the correct application of Plasma technology. 3. The high panetration of the plasma beam on the fabric sur-
TECHNICAL ARTICLE face can alter the result of dyeing , means the cause of dyeing shade varriation , patchyness, deeper-lighter shades. 4. Time duration of plasma electon flowing on the surface of the material should be set according to the fiber bonding capasity of the material, so, this depend upon the inter fiber molecular structure , surface charecteristics and fiber density. 5. In high temprature plasma process always the low lavel of pressure of electron flowing should be maintained to control the quality of the material. Thus in further process of dyeing timing can be minimised. 6. In finishing of textile polyester material the thickener cost is redused because at the time of plasma treatment the material will be more porous to attract the bonds of thickner. 7 In plasma dyeing and finishing processes the abrasion resistance, pilling tendencies, tearing strength and crease recovery properties of fabrics are improved.
R&D Center, Schenectady, NY).  S. C. Brown, “A short history of gaseous electronics,” in Gaseous Electronics, vol. 1, M. N. Hirsh and H. J. Oskam, Eds. New York: Academic, 1978, pp. 1-18.  I. Langmuir, “Oscillations in ionized gases,” Proc. Nat. Acad. Sci. U.S., vol. 14, p. 628, 1928; also available in The Collected Works of Irving Langmuir, vol. 5, C. G. Suits, Ed. New York: Pergamon, 1961, pp. 111-120.  Maximov A.I., Titov V.A. Theoretical problems of plasmachemical reactors. Tekstilnaja khimija (Textile Chemistry), No 2, (4), (1993), P.36-45.  Maltseva S.V., Ivanov A.N., Maximov A.I. Several effects of linen fabrics plasma treatment. Tekstilnaja khimija (Textile Chemistry), No 1(3), (1993), P.76-79.
 Zakharov A.G., Maximov A.I., Koksharov S.A. The prospects of physical effect applications under textile material treatment. Book of Papers, 17th IFATCC Congress.
 L. Tonks, “The birth of ‘plasma’” Amer. J. Phys., vol. 35, pp. 857-858, 1967.
 Handbook of Plasma Technology for Chemical Dyeing and Finishing.
 Letter from H. M. Mott-Smith to A. M. Bueche, Apr. 20, 1967 (on file at Communications Operation, General Electric
 Chemical Technology of Fibrous Materials by F. Sadov, M. Korchagin, A. Matetsky, MIR Publishers MOSCOW.
UPDATES FROM SAG - SPINNERS ASSOCIATION (GUJARAT) Highlights of SAG Delegation - Delhi Meeting
pinners Association (Gujarat) - SAG, are Association of Spinning Mills of Gujarat region. It is founded in mid of 2014, is the entrepreneurs’ association working towards the promotion and protection of the interests of the organised Spinning sector in and around Gujarat. Currently there are 90 registered members of our associations. Each unit provides local employment to approximate 200-300 workers. All together there are approximately 24 lakhs spindles from our registered members with production of around 1500 M.T. of Yarn per Day, and 5,40,000 M.T. per annum with value of approx. Rs. 11,000 Crore. All these Spinning units consume around 7.75 lakhs M.T. of Cotton and around 50 lakhs Bales of our association members. Apart from that in Gujarat there are same number of spindles who are Big Corporates and not our registered members making total of 48 lakhs Spindles only in Gujarat.
The Spinners Association (Gujarat) made a very strong representation on 31st May headed by Dilipbhai Patel (D Raja Cotton Pvt Ltd / Raja Spintex LLP, Kadi), Saurinbhai Parikh (Pashupati Cotspin LLP), Jayeshbhai Patel (Omax Cotspin Pvt Ltd), Mr Tejas Patel (Phenix Spinning Pvt Ltd), Mr Sanjay Shah (Omax Cotspin Pvt Ltd) and Bhavesh Thakar (Spinners Association Gujarat). They met with DGFT, Delhi Mr Ajay Bhalla & Mr Anant Kumar Singh (Secretary – Ministry of Textile) and other senior officials of Ministry of Textiles / Ministry of Commerce & Industry to represent the Industry Scenario - Current as well Future impacts & submitted the descriptive drafts on it. The Appointments were lined up with the support of office of Shree Parshottam Rupala ji (H’ble Minister of State Agriculture & Farmer Welfare). Points of Discussion EPCG, VAT, MEIS, GST on Textile EPCG benefits under GST was also discussed with Shree Ajay Bhalla D.G.F.T. &
with Mr Anant Kumar Singh – Secretary Ministry of Textile MEIS to Cotton Spinners discussed with Shree Ajay Bhalla (DGFT, Delhi) with respect to the weightage, structure & profile of Spinning Industry along with the Free Trade Agreement / Policy formation. Shree Ajay Bhalla agreed on SAG’s concerns & assured for the needful recommendation for the MEIS benefits to Cotton Yarn industry exporters. Also suggestion draft for EAEU about Free Trade Agreement between India and EAEU was submitted, which was prepared under guidance of Mr. Suvidh Shah (Dy. DGFT Rajkot) Mr Anant Kumar Singh also agreed on benefits of MEiS to Cotton Yarn. He assured that GST will not have any additional impact and industry need not worry unnecessary until outcome of tax structure for textile segment where things would be taken care based on previous letters & communication from SAG.
ASSOCIATION NEWS Regarding export benefits after GST, Textile Secretary was found positive & quite supportive. With respect to MEIS benefits for cotton yarn export, secretary told that it was quite logical & follow up is to be kept in loop regularly. The SAG Delegation was assured that there will not be any burden in GST for Textile sector & EPCG Benefits would be taken care under IGST. Also, their suggestion of 5% GST for Yarn & Textile is also honored. This was quite sharply justified by the Association during the representation there in Delhi Ministry / Department to the ground reality of the phase of Textile Industry. Then the delegation visited T T House & met Mr Sanjay Jain – MD of T T Ltd & Vice Chairman of CITI (Confederation of Indian Textile Industry) where they all discussed & exchanged their views on GST, VAT, EPCG, MEIS - Export Incentives, Spinning Future & Market elaborately. Mr Sanjay Jain took a note on the sincere efforts of Spinners Association (Gujarat) & also appreciated the spirit / activities of SAG. LETTERS SENT TO GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS BY SAG ( Spinners Association – Gujarat ) Letter 1 : Shri Sunil Kumar, Joint Secretary (CIS), Ministry of Commerce and Industry, New Delhi. Sub: Regarding Suggestion for Free Trade Agreement (FTA) between the Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU) and India Hereby we refer the Stake Holder Consultation Meeting, held on 02 May 2017 at Ahmedabad Management Association – AMA for the Free Trade Agreement between the Eurasian Economic Union and India. EAEU Countries – Armenia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Russia Gujarat Spinning Industry currently exports their 50% productions to various countries like China, Bangladesh, Europe etc. 1. Major hurdle to export in Russian countries (EAEU) is transportation. And export via Iran is costly affairs compare
to China. Hence we request to avail extra benefit of old Scheme like FMS (Focus Market Scheme) @ 3%. 2. Currently Duty of Importing Yarn is around 5% in Russia, If that duty is lowered to 2% or 1% then scenario can change drastically. 3. Currently there is no MEIS for Yarn. So If 5% MEIS is given to Yarn Industry Exports will rise eventually. 4. Further it is emphasized that FTA should not be a point of dumping the 3rd county products in India under the mask of Rule (Country) of Origin. However, it has the solution to barricade under sheer logical criteria. This Non Tariff barrier is otherwise very lethal for our country to be dealt tactfully while undergoing the FTA. Since WTO’s role is very passive, more & more countries are signing the bilateral Agreements. 5. The Research Advisor (GoG) drew several core facts & figures to the attention of the committee there viz. lowering of tariffs in international trade, to promote more alliances & agreements with other countries to push our industry & export. This was rated as a nice initiative from Govt of India unanimously. The core discussion was on increasing the stake of Indian Commodity, Services & Investments in the countries who are least explored as well in the countries where our stake holding / export can be increased to the fullest of potential with the vision, support & directives of Govt of India in consideration of the suggestions / grievances of Indian industrialists. As you rightly told in seminar about our tough competition with China. Scope of trade increment in foreign countries thru FTA is very obvious as we are already at a bottom from where scaling height is the only option. Also Gujarat is the land of entrepreneurs. Today domestic economy reflects on global sphere. Domestic & International economies are inter-linked. Goods & Services contribute almost 50% to GDP of our country. Now EAEU is an opportunity to reap with appropriate strategy. We need to integrate Goods, Services & Investment to spring up with fullest of our
capacity. Letter 2 : Smt Nirmala Sitharaman,H’ble Minister of Commerce and Industries, Udyog Bhawan, New Delhi 110 107 SUB: Inclusion of MIES in Foreign Trade Policy for 100% Cotton Yarn Spinning Industries of Gujarat. Government of Gujarat has floated Textile Policy 2012-2017. Under this policy many entrepreneur came forward to setup units of Spinning, Weaving as well proposed processing units. Almost 24 lakhs new spindles were setup to consume local grown cotton, creating value chain from Farmer to Spinners. Hereby we request your-self to look into the detail under Mid Term Review of Foreign Trade Policy (FTP 2015-2020) Some salient features of Spinning Industries are as follows: a) Spinning Industry is an Agro based Industry. b) Spinning being labour intensive industry, it generates bigger employment opportunity c) Big Capital Investment in Land, Building, Machinery compared in entire value chain of Textiles. d) In Gujarat all Spinning Factories are located in Remote / Rural area – contributing in development, catering social responsibility, giving employment to the bottom of the pyramid. e) Striving further in Forward integration – making brand of Gujarat / India by value addition from start (Farm) to end (Fashion) product f) Deployment of high value / high end / latest technology based Indigenous machinery. g) Having sufficient Ginning Industry for producing Export Quality Cotton. h) Having large scale production of Raw Cotton in the Farms nearby Factories. i) Competing to international market countries with LDC (Least Developed Countries) status like Bangladesh, Vietnam takes undue advantage due to their NIL Duty on of their goods to importing
ASSOCIATION NEWS countries under WTO regime. Due to this LDC has captured prime market share despite they don’t grow cotton, they import cotton from India, produce yarn &fabrics and export to other countries. We are directly in competition with international market for cotton yarn where survival of our product is on a threat against capacity and advantages of lowered duty to the LDC – Least Developed Countries. 1 Include 100% Cotton Yarn manufactured in the state of Gujarat to avail Merchandise Export from India Scheme (MEIS) of 5%. Currently there are no benefits of MEIS for exporting Yarn. By taking all the above points into the consideration, you are requested to allow MEIS @ 5% for Cotton Yarn (HS Code 5205) as industry needs due support from Government for its healthy survival in this competition and unpredictable scenario. Spinning Industries fulfill many criteria to qualify in MEIS. At present Govt. of In-
2. Clarity on EPCG benefits post GST implementation.
dia has not given MEIS Benefit to Cotton yarn, while all other industries are getting 2 to 3 % of benefits depending upon the categories of products in textile segment under MEISscheme. We shall request the Government of India to allow MEIS benefits to 100% Cotton Yarn manufactured in Gujarat to an extent of 5%.
Our industry is extensively benefitted of EPCG Scheme of Govt of India as of now. After GST implementation, we have to pay the Duty first then to bear till its reimbursement on claim from Govt. This requires huge working capital in process which is adding 2 – 3% cost to the industry’s operative cost.
Women Employment in Spinning Industries is ranging around 35 – 50% of total employment. Henceforth it doesn’t only support the women empowerment but also, to the generation of local women employment.
Kindly reform the EPCG in the form that it should be continue under GST somehow with proper explanation and clarity and should be functional same like today even after GST implementation.
In Spinning Industries, value addition comprises of approx 100 – 150% i.e. Cotton @ Rs 110/ Kg to 120 Rs/kg is the raw material, which gets converted @ Rs 200 – 300 / Kg yarn for various counts that means compared to other products the value addition is much higher. On the contrary, other products in India is granted MEIS benefits @ 2 – 3 % MEIS viz. Pharmaceutical, Brass, Automobile, Engineering etc to name a few.
We are thankful for the vision of Mr. Narendra Modi who was the then Chief Minister of Gujarat who saw vision of “FARM TO FABRIC / FASHION”. This vision and object was to add value of the cotton grown in the state of Gujarat to produce the Fabric and supply and export to other countries henceforth increasing multi fold value addition to cotton.
Khadi by Raymond – India’s First Branded Khadi Label Offers an exquisite range of Khadi Fabrics & an array of ready to wear apparel lect international markets • Khadi &Village Industries Commission certifies Raymond to use Khadi mark •An initiative to position Khadi as a ‘Fashion fabric’ globally • Collection to be available in top Raymond stores (350+) and select Multi Brand Outlets beginning August 2017
• Raymond Khadi positioned to create its own niche in the fashion industry •Exclusive Trade Preview forRaymond’s expansive dealer network in India & se-
Mumbai, 18th May, 2017:Reckoned for its many firsts in the industry,Raymond Limited - India’s leading Textile and Apparel conglomerate, launched India’s first branded Khadi label - ‘Khadi by Raymond’at a grand event in Mumbai. This mega launch witnessed theaugust presence of Hon’ble Minister of State (MSME) Shri Giriraj Singh as the Chief Guest and Ms. Sumitra Kulkarni Gandhi, granddaughter of Mahatma Gandhi as the Guest of Honor. Other honorary
guests Hon’ble Cabinet Minister (Industry & Mining), Govt. of Maharashtra, ShriSubhashDesai,Hon’ble Cabinet Minister (Education),Govt. of Gujarat,Shri BhupendrasinhaChudasma, Ms.Ansu Sinha, CEO KVIC,Ms. Usha Suresh, FA, KVIC and others who graced this event. KabirBedi,eminent Indian television & film actor andTannishtha Chatterjee, an Indian Film Actress weaved together the evening and created a sense of nostalgiawhilereminiscingIndia’s quest for independence and its association with Khadi as a symbol of self-sufficiency. ‘Khadi By Raymond’ is an exquisite range of fabric blends and ready to wear apparel that resonate with the Indian culture, upholds Raymond’s rich legacy that strikes a chord with today’s discerning Indian customer. Speaking during the occasion, Mr. Gautam Hari Singhania,
Chairman & Managing Director – Raymond Limited said;“It is indeed a moment of pride to have Khadi – the fabric of our nation as a part of our product portfolio. Embodying some of the latest design trends and enhancing its quality Raymond Khadi is set to reposition Khadi as a fabric of choice,in line with the Hon. Prime Minister’s vision of promoting Khadi for Fashion and reinstating our commitment to Make in India initiative.” This initiative is conceptualized under KVIC mark regulation Act and permits Raymond to promote the sale and marketing of Khadi or Khadi products of village industries or handicrafts and forge links with established marketing agencies through the PPP mode. Under this convergence, Raymond has agreed for a guaranteed minimum procurement of Khadi and Khadi products for a period of 5 years with primary purchases of muslin cotton, wool blendsand silk. On the momentous occasion of the launch, Mr. V.K. Saxena, Chairman KVIC-
said, “It is a historical moment that the best brains are coming in to get involved with K h a d i . To d a y the agreement signed between KVIC and Raymond is bearing it’s first fruit and the exclusive display of Khadi apparels will open a new avenue for Khadi market and this will serve the cause of rural artisans of our country and support the cause of Hon’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi for greater use of Khadi by every Indian.” Currently, Khadi is being marketed by Khadi GramodyogBhavan’s stores as well as through the sales outlets run by the institutions financed by KVIC and KVIB. However, this strategic partnership will open new doors for Khadi through numerous Raymond outlets across the country as well as select international markets. Also speaking during the occasion was Shri Giriraj Singh, Minister of State, MSME, Govt. of Indiawho stated; “The ministry of MSME has been undertaking numerous measures to not just revive but also strengthen the ailing units of Khadi. Public Private Partnerships such as the one with Raymond boosts industry confidence by ensuring market linkages that can lead to demand generation. The increase in demand for Khadi will thus be a positive measure for the economy creating numerous employment opportunities for artisans.” As a part of the initiative Raymond will
procure all India Khadi varieties and will send it to manufacturing plants for final finishing process ensuring superior product handle and finesse. Raymond will also bring in the design interventions at Khadi manufacturing clusters across the country along with providing technical expertise. The story Re-Spun signifies the value addition done by Raymond in entire value chain of Khadi production. Raymond Khadi products will be available at KVIC outlets, The Raymond Shops across India and leading ecommerce portals. About Raymond Limited Raymond offers end-to-end solutions for fabrics and garmenting. It has some of the leading brands in its portfolio including Raymond Ready-to-Wear, Park Avenue, Parx, Color Plus, Raymond Made to Measure amongst others. Raymond has one of the largest exclusive retail networks in the textile and fashion space in India. As a part of the diversified Group, we also have business interests in men’s accessories, personal grooming & toiletries, prophylactics, energy drinks, files and tools and auto components. Visit us today at https://raymondnext. com/to witness how we cater to the needs of ‘The Complete Man’. About KVIC The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) is a statutory body established by an Act of Parliament (No. 61 of 1956, as amended by act no. 12 of 1987 and Act No.10 of 2006. In April 1957, it took over the work of former All India Khadi and Village Industries Board. The Broad objectives of KVIC are: 1. The social objective of providing employment; 2. The economic objective of producing saleable articles, and 3. The wider objective of creating selfreliance amongst the people and building up of a strong rural community spirit.
Arvind Limited showcases Sustainable Clothing Collection A collective display at concluding day of SAC annual member meeting
ith a purpose to promote sustainability in the country’s textile industry, India’s leading lifestyle and fashion conglomerate, Arvind Limited has today showcased its sustainable collection of clothing through a fashion show. The successful showcase was held on the side-lines of Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) annual member meeting in Bangalore. The display included sustainable collection of products by Arvind such as Denim, tops, shirts, Khadi clothes etc. A beautifully choreographed event by Bangalore-based renowned fashion stylist and choreographer Prasad Bidapa was witnessed by around 250 guests from leading brands, manufacturers, NGOs and Academia. A 45-minutes fashion showcase was divided into three brief segments in order to present a comprehensive sustainability-focused product portfolio by Arvind Limited. The first part emphasised on sustainable input mate-
showcasing clothing made from Khadi and local handlooms. Production of such products carries a huge demand overseas; hence this can become a significant part of Indian textile export industry. On the successful completion of the event,Mr.PunitLalbhai – Executive Director, Arvind Limited said,“Sustainability is the new buzz word in the textile industry worldwide and it has always been our key-focus area. With our strong research and development team,it has always been our constant endeavour to innovate new apparel manufacturing techniques. Today, thanks to SAC annual meeting, we got an opportunity to showcase an entire range of sustainable clothing.” Also present at the event,Mr.Ashish Kumar – CEO, Shirts, Arvind Limited said, “In current times, Sustainability has become need of the hour and we all should take necessary steps to make our environment pollution free. We take immense pride in
Sustainability Reporting Awards (ASRA) in Singapore. Arvind was also declared joint winner in the Asia’s Best Materiality Reporting category where it shared the award with Qatar General Electricity and Water Corporation. About Arvind Limited Arvind Limited is one of India’s largest integrated textile and apparel companies with a strong retail presence. Arvind is also the pioneer of denim in India with a turnover of around US$1.3 billion in FY2015-16. Arvind has an unmatched portfolio of owned, licensed brands and retail formats. The company’s own product brands include
rial that includes clothes manufactured by using environment-friendly cotton, recycled polyester etc. The second segment focused on various practices that play a significant role in producing sustainable garments. And, the last piece promoted the Indian craftsmanship approach by
today’s fashion showcase, wherein we could display a variety of our clothing manufactured by using environmentfriendly products and practices.” Arvind Limited has also received Asia’s Best First Time Sustainability Report awardat the recently concluded 2016 Asia
Megamart (recently rebranded as Unlimited), Flying Machine, Colt, Ruggers, Excalibur among others while its licensed product brands have big global names like GAP, Arrow, Gant, Izod, Elle, Cherokee, US Polo Assn, TheChildren’s Place and Sephora, to name a few. It has a joint venture in India with global majors Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein.
YNFX EXPORT WATCH REPORT – MAY 2017 INDIA’S OVERALL EXPORT UP BY 20%
ndia’s merchandise exportcontinued to growin April 2017 with value at US$24.63 billion (INR158,914 crore), up 19.8 per cent (16.23 per cent higher in INR terms) compared to the levels in April 2016. Imports in April 2017 were valued at US$37.88 billion (INR244,381 crore) and were 49.1 per cent higher (44.7 per cent higher in INR terms) over the level of imports in April 2016. Crude oil imports werevalued at US$7.36 billion which was30.1 per cent higher in April 2017 as compared to April 2016. In similar comparison, non-oil imports were valued at US$30.52 billion, up 54.5 per cent in April 2017 as compared to previous year. As a result, trade deficit for April 2017 was at US$13.25 billion, which was 173.5 per centhigher than the deficit of US$4.84 billion in April 2016. INDIA’S YARN EXPORT MARKET FADING IN CHINA Spun yarn exportsin April 2017 fell 46.9 per cent in volume terms and plunged 36.6 per centin value terms.Spun yarn (all kinds) shipments were at 59.44 million kg worth US$188.7 million or INR1,216 crore, implying per unit realization of US$3.17 per kg which was up US cents 9 from previous month and rose US cents 51 as compared to April 2016. With high raw material costs, Indian yarn producers have partly lost their export markets, especially in China.Indian yarn export prices had reached unbearable levels for downward processors in countries like China but also Turkey where the lira has sharply fallen in the past year.
Also, the rebound of rupee and the continuous fall of the yuan further depressed the Chinese demand. India’s textile industry is currently focusing on implementation of a unified GST as of July 1st. The level of the GST rate could also have consequences for cotton yarn exports.
In April 2017, 89 countries imported spun yarn from India, with Bangladesh at the top accounting for 23.35 per cent of the total value with imports shrinking 34.47 per cent in terms of volume YoY and declining 24.7 per cent in value YoY. China was the second largest importer of spun yarns in April and accounted for around 10.8 per cent of all spun yarn exported from India. Export to China were down 79.9 per cent in volumes and 75.9 per cent lower in value. Portugal was the third largest importer of spun yarns, which saw volume decreasing 20.6 per cent while it was down 10.2 per cent in value. These three top importers together accounted for around 39.2 per cent of all spun yarns exportMundra ed from India in April. Tu corin Sea Cotton yarn export was at 46.69 million kg in April with 74 countries importing yarn worth US$153.3 million (INR988 crore). The average unit price realization was at US$3.28 a kg, up US cents 13 from previous month and rose US cents 63 from the same month a year ago. Bangladesh was the largest importer of cotton yarn from India in April, followed by China and Portugal.The top three together accounted for more than 45 per cent of cotton yarn with combined volume at 22 million kg worth US$70.2 million.
Costa Rica, Syria and Honduras. They had imported yarns worth US$0.31 million in April 2016. In April 2017, significant deceleration was seen in export to Indonesia, Venezuela, Iran, Taiwan and Hong Kong. Combed cotton yarn accounted for 66 per cent of cotton yarn exported in April with volumes at 31.4 million kg worth US$107.8 million. Carded yarn export was at 9.6 million kg. Their respective unit value realization was US$3.43 per kg and US$2.82 per kg. Open ended yarn export was at 0.83 million kg at an average price of US$2.04 a kg.
A. SPUN YARN EXPORTS - BY PORT
'000 Kgs Rs crore Mln US$ Apr-16 Apr-17 Apr-16 Apr-17 Apr-16 Apr-17 24,640 24,269 414.3 467.2 62.82 72.58 17,469 9,241 346.7 204.9 52.58 31.77 Pipavav 8,194 8,092 138.1 166.8 20.94 25.89 JNPT 18,761 8,161 324.2 161.3 49.15 25.00 Mandideep 1,690 2,264 31.8 46.8 4.82 7.28 Madras Sea 12,805 2,116 199.9 46.2 30.31 7.17 Cochin Sea 2,446 1,111 56.9 36.0 8.62 5.59 Petrapole Road 2,141 1,062 46.7 26.8 7.08 4.15 Nagpur 888 566 14.2 10.6 2.16 1.63 Ludhiana ICD 10,850 415 194.5 9.7 29.50 1.50 Tu corin ICD 463 245 12.0 7.3 1.82 1.13 Ahmedabad ICD 739 325 12.6 7.1 1.90 1.10 Marripalam ICD 3,022 395 43.2 7.0 6.55 1.09 Ka upalli 2,187 304 36.1 6.1 5.47 0.94 Krishnapatanam 1,385 254 21.5 4.4 3.27 0.67 Delhi TKD ICD 1,718 364 30.3 3.5 4.60 0.55 Hyderabad ICD 1,056 158 18.2 2.8 2.75 0.43 Vizag Sea 1,250 100 17.2 1.7 2.61 0.26 Tondiarpet ICD 277 4.4 0.66 Grand Total 111,984 59,442 1,962.9 1,216.0 297.63 188.72
Brazil, United Arab Emirates, Ukraine, Chile and Madagascarwere among the fastest growing markets for cotton yarn, and accounted for 1.68 per cent of total cotton yarn export value. Fourteen new destinations were added for cotton yarn export, of which,Austria, Kazakhstan, Switzerland and Denmark were the major ones. Ten countries did not import any cotton yarn from India, including Bulgaria,
MANMADE FIBRE YARNS EXPORT FALLS AGAIN 100% man-made fibre yarns exportwas at 5.32 million kg in April, comprising 3.22 million kg of polyester yarn, 1.59 million kg of viscose yarn and 0.49 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports rose 9.4 per cent in value while viscose yarn exports value was down 27.8 per cent during the month. Acrylic yarn exports plunged 63.3 per cent in April. Unit price realization was up US cents 33
MARKET REPORT a kg for polyester from a year ago and that of viscose yarn jumped US cents 36 a kg. Acrylic yarn unit price realization fell US$1.70 a kg year on year basis. Polyester spun yarns wereexported to 36 countries in April aggregating US$7.64 million with unit price realization averaging US$2.38 a kg. A total of 3.21 million kg was exported, of which, 28.3 per cent was shipped by Turkey alone. Eight new destinations were found for polyester yarn this April, of which, Myanmar, Jordan, Hungary and Poland were the major ones. Viscose yarn export was valued at US$5.31 million or INR34.2 crore and volume at 1.59 million kg, implying average unit price realization of US$3.34 per kg. They were exported to 19 countries with Turkey at the top worth US$1.18 million. It was followed by Belgiumwith imports worth US$1.04 million. Both these markets accounted for 41.4 per cent of all viscose yarn exported in April. Sri Lanka, Pakistan and Turkeywere the fastest growing markets for viscose yarns while Iraq, France, Slovenia, South Africa and United Arab Emirates were the new major markets. Germany,Algeria and Argentina did not import any viscose yarns during the month. BLENDED YARNS DOWNTREND
Blended spun yarns export was worth US$21.3 million in April, down 30.1 per cent YoY while volumes declined 31.9 per cent at 7.43 million kg. During the month, 4.4 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$11.4 million. Another 2 million kg of PV yarns valued at US$5.6 million were exported. Acrylic/cotton yarn prices were up 15.4 per cent YoY. In April, 0.82 million kg of other blend of yarns were exported worth US$3.6 million. Colombia and Brazilwerethe largestimporters of PC yarn from India in April followed by Bangladesh. Brazil, Guatemala, Mauritius, Dominican Republic and Romania were the fastest growing markets for PC yarns while Germany and Turkey significantly reduced its import of PC yarns from India. Honduras, Iran,Philippines and United Arab Emir-
ates were among the 15 countries that did not import any PC yarns from India during April. Chile and Ethiopia were the major destination among the 11 new markets found in April. In April, US$5.61 million worth of PV yarns were exported from India with volumes at 2 million kgs. Iraqwas the largest importer of PV yarns from India followed by Turkeywith total JNPT volume at 1.18 million kg Nagpur worth at US$3.3 million. Iraq and Chile were the Tu corin ICD new major markets for PV Mundra yarn while 11 countries Pipavav did not import any PV yarn during the month, Ahmedabad ICD including the major ones Tu corin Sea like Honduras and Russia. FILAMENT YARNS EXPORT DECLINES In April, all types of filament yarns export aggregated 16.04 million kg, down 50 per cent YoY while value declined 42.8 per cent to US$29.98 million. Filament yarns include polyester, nylon, polypropylene and viscose filament yarns and were exported to 71 countries during the month. More than 83 per cent of filament yarns were of polyester, of which, DTYs were the largest at 67.1 per cent. During the month, 14.8 million kg of polyester filament yarns were exported worth US$25.1 million. Turkey and Brazil continued to be the major importers of polyester filament yarns, followed by South Korea. The three together accounted for 40.6 per cent of polyester filament yarn exports. Brazil was also the major importer of polyester DTYswhile Australia was
the major importer of PFYs. Sri Lanka was the major importer of nylon filament yarn in April with volumes at 129,010 kg worth US$0.7 million. In value terms, United Kingdom and USA were the other largest markets for nylon
B. FILAMENT EXPORTS - BY PORT
'000 Kgs Rs crore Mln US$ Apr-16 Apr-17 Apr-16 Apr-17 Apr-16 Apr-17 26,733 12,603 268.5 144.9 40.72 22.45 3,635 2,225 29.2 19.4 4.42 3.00 443 214 18.3 7.7 2.78 1.20 499 412 9.9 7.2 1.50 1.12 232 205 5.9 5.6 0.89 0.86 131 154 2.8 2.8 0.43 0.44 207 124 6.5 2.6 0.99 0.41 Petrapole Road 11 72 0.3 1.9 0.05 0.29 Ka upalli 103 4 1.1 0.4 0.17 0.06 Madras Sea 72 4 2.0 0.4 0.30 0.06 Ludhiana ICD 32 6 1.2 0.2 0.18 0.03 Delhi TKD ICD 11 4 0.1 0.2 0.02 0.03 Ankleshwar 15 0.2 0.03 Grand Total 32,110 16,041 345.8 193.5 52.44 29.98
C. FIBRE EXPORTS - BY PORT
Mundra JNPT Pipavav Petrapole Road Ankleshwar Hyderabad ICD Nagpur Vizag Sea Madras Sea Tu corin Sea Tu corin ICD Mandideep Krishnapatanam Ludhiana ICD Ahmedabad ICD Grand Total
'000 Kgs Rs crore Mln US$ Apr-16 Apr-17 Apr-16 Apr-17 Apr-16 Apr-17 25,096 44,278 241.8 519.7 36.68 80.80 22,615 24,856 195.1 285.1 29.58 44.17 3,324 8,144 30.1 95.8 4.57 14.81 8,942 6,725 87.5 86.9 13.26 13.41 777 356 10.0 4.5 1.50 0.70 215 3.0 0.47 537 287 3.7 2.0 0.56 0.30 95 1.0 0.15 101 0.9 0.14 21 49 0.3 0.9 0.05 0.14 28 0.7 0.11 7 0.1 0.01 251 2.5 0.38 2,014 20.8 3.16 45 0.4 0.07 63,623 85,140 592.3 1,000.5 89.80 155.21 www.textilevaluechain.com
MARKET REPORT filament in April, worth US$0.21 million. Polypropylene filament yarns were exported to 15 countries in April with volumes at 247,198 kg worth US$0.50 million. Bangladesh was the major importer of PP yarns. USAand Taiwan were the other major importers of PP filament yarns in April. Around 893,000 kg of viscose filament yarns were exported in April to 21 countries from India valued at US$3.68 million. During the month, 166,000 kg of
VFYs were exported to Turkey. It was followed by Japan and Czech Republic. COTTON EXPORT VALUE DOUBLES IN APRIL Cotton fibre export was at 81.12 million kg or 477,178 bales (of 170 kg each) in April which surged 65.2 per cent YoY and valued at US$149.3 million, up 111.9 per cent.Bangladesh and Vietnam were the largest importers of cotton with combined volumes at 347,481 bales amongst the 23 countries that imported cotton from India.
Exports of manmade fibre were at 4.02 million kg, worth US$5.9 million. These included ASF, PSF, VSF and PPSF. Germany and Belgiumwere the largest importers of PSF during April while USA and Israel were also the major importers of VSF, in similar comparison. Vidya Vadgaonkar Email : Vidya@ynfx.com Tel : +91 22 66291122 Mobile : +91 9619 293725
SURAT REPORT Yarn manufacturers Trying to push demand
Industry demands lowest 5% GST on synthetic textile product
he synthetic yarn manufacturers in the city have put their efforts to push demand in the local yarn market. During last week, spinners have increased POY and yarn prices upto Rs.2/ Kg. Ahead of GST, all segments of textiles are on the caution mode. The traders and weavers are trying to clear their inventories owing to tax credit issues. Grey fabrics production is down by 40%. The prices of various qualities of raw grey fabrics has declined by 50 paise to Rs.2 per meter. Because of sluggish demand of grey fabrics, weavers are avoiding to stock yarn. Presently, the trading activities in the yarn market is slow. But, on the other hand yarn prices have gone-up. With increased crude oil prices, the spinners has also increased the yarn prices upto Rs. 2/Kg. Market sources said, by enhancing the prices, yarn manufacturers are trying to acquire new orders. To increase the demand, spinners may further enhance the yarn prices in June’s first sale. The central government will fix the GST rate on textile in the first weak of June. Sources said, if GST will apply on yarn stage only and other value chain gets relief, surat synthetic textile industries will witness a big boom.
Surat based synthetic textile industries has urged the government to apply the lowest 5% GST rate on various textile product. In a representation to the union government, The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industries(SGCCI) has said, lowest rate will boost Man Made Fibre(MMF) sector, propel production and encourage voluntary compliance.
Earlier, under GST, draft rules proposes four slabs of 5, 8, 12 and 18 percent of tax. The central govt., may decide the GST rates on various textile product on 3rd June. In it’s memorandum, the Industry Association has said that Surat MMF industries contributes 60% polyester fabric production in the country and providing employment to approx. 10 lakh people. The present rate of excise duty on MMF and its products is 12.5 per cent, which makes the products costly as compared to other textile products. The city’s textile sector is unorganised and lowest 5% GST on textiles products would ensure smooth migration of entire textile value chain to GST tax structure. This will also avoid any possibility of tax evasion and remove tax cascading present in the industry. The tax collection will double if the GST rate is fixed at the lowest slab of 5% without any exemption across the
textile value chain. The industry has also demanded to continue duty drawback scheme and other exports benefits after the implementation of GST.
‘Textile India-2017’ to be organised in Gandhinagar The Ministry of Textiles and Synthetic and Rayon Textile Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) will organise textile exhibition ‘Textile India-2017’ in Gandhinagar. Prime Minister Narendra Modi will inaugurate the four day event on June 29. In a programme organised by SRTEPC in Surat, Mr. Narain Agarwal(Chairman) said, more than 1000 exhibitors of MMF and textiles, yarn, fabric, silk, apparel, made-up, handloom, cotton from accross the country will showcase their latest products, designs and innovations. This mega event will host pavilions of focus countries such as the UK, the USA, Germany, Japan, China, South Korea, Kazakhstan, Turkey and Australia. The Ministry of Textiles has planned road shows in many of these countries as well as in Russia and UAE to promote the event. SRTEPC along with the other textile councils are organising road shows in various cities for ‘Textile India-2017’ event. Key international textile buying houses, importers, fashion houses, luxury and retail brands and reputed fashion designers will attend the events.
June 2017 7-8
EurAsian Geo textile Symposium Place : Beijing / China, info: www.edana.org/education-events/conferencesand-symposia
August 2017 11-13
KNIT SHOW Place : Tirupur/ India, info: http://www.knitshow.in/ GTE Place: Ahmedabad/ India, info: www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com
Non Woven Tech 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.nonwoventechasia.com
Fashion Connect / HOMTEX PLUS Place: Banglore/ India, info: www.fashionconnect.co.in , www.homtex.in
China Yiwutex International Textile Machinery 2017 Place : PR China, info: www.yiwutex.com HEIMTEXTIL â€“ INDIA Place: Delhi/ India, info: http://heimtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com/
30- 2nd July The Textile India Conclave and Exhibition Place : Gandhinagar / Gujarat, info: www.textilesindia2017.com
July 2017 4-6
HGH INDIA Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.hghindia.com
GFT 2017 Place : Bitex/Bangkok, info: www.gftexpo.com
NGF by CMAI Place : Mumbai/ India, info : www.cmai.in
YARNEX 2017 Place: Delhi/ India, info: www.yarnex.in
F&A SHOW Place : Delhi/ India, info: www.fnashow.in
GARTEX 2017 Place : Delhi/ India info: http://gartexindia.com
TechTexil India 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: http://techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com/
YARNEX / TEXINDIA Place : Tirupur/ India, info: www.yarnex.in , www.texindiafair.com
October 2017 29-31
Screen Print East Africa Place: Nairobi/ Kenya, info: www.screenprinteastafrica.com
November 2017 1-3
International Textile & Apparel Show Place: Dubai/ UAE, info: www.internationalapparelandtextilefair.com
INTEX South Asia Place: Colombo/ Srilanka, info: www.intexfair.com
Texfair 2017 Place: Coimbatore / India, info: firstname.lastname@example.org
YFA SHOW 2017 Place : Delhi/ India, info: www.yfatradeshow.com
December 2017 5-7
China Machinex India/ China Homelife India Place : Mumbai/ Maharashtra, info : www.chlmx.com
ITMACH INDIA/ ITS Exhibition Place : Gandhinagar / Gujarat , info: www.ITMACH.com / www.ITSexhibition.com
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