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TEXTILE

VALUE CHAIN

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March 2016 | Volume 4 | Issue 3| Pages 56 Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 17/18 of month

Budget for R&D / Innova on is must for industry‌

Technical Research Papers


EDITORIAL

Budget for R&D / Innovation is must for industry… This is the season of Financial closing, industry busy in adjusting their accounts ie. Profile v/s Loss, Sales V/s Expenses etc. India Incorporation also done same and presented their next financial budget 2016-17 on last day of February 2016. India Incorporation CEO Mr. Narendra Modi and CFO Mr. Arun Jaitley, presented well drafted budget. Their team focused on priority sectors with the Vision based on consumerism or consumption economy, which is root of any development. Kudos for India Inc. leaders..!!! Kindly go through brief report which is presented inside. “Textile Friends Group” met with Textile commissioner Dr. Kavita Gupta & informed about the informal study / activities going on within the industry for development & growth of industry. She had given few sectors in which textile ministry is focusing as of now. They are as follows: 1-

Looking for energy saving devices & machinery

2-

Solar panels for power loom, group work sheds, textile parks.

3-

Skill development scheme should be initiative by corporate companies & absorb people in their units.

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Technical textile for Geo & Agro textiles

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Research and development Funds

I would like to touch base upon R & D. In Textiles Research starts from Fibers and ends with Fashion Forecast / Retail Window display. Research, whether it’s Technical or Market both are necessary & need of an Indian industry today. But sad part is that we Indians don’t want to do research but wants to copy. In each value chain sector, we request industry contributors allocate some funds to innovation & research to lead in world market or else we will be copy master always, which is degrading Indian image of rich culture & heritage. This issue we presented 3 important technical research papers from Industry ie from Birla Cellulose, RSWM, textile Committee. Kind requests you to go through and send your feedback. Hope your next budget has funds for research & Innovation…!! Start small but steadily grow budget in research department. Wishing you Fruitful & Growing financial year 2016-17…!!! “Nobody is here to fulfill your dream. Everybody is here to fulfill his own destiny, his own reality…!”

Ms. Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

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Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed & Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

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March 2016


CONTENT NEWS

March 2016 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Editorial Advisor Shri V.Y. Tamhane Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale

INDUSTRY

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION

Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA

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11- AEPC & ATDC 12- Arvind & Colorjet 13-ITMF & SIMA 14- APSOM & Thredsol 21- EDANA- Outlook Asia Award 24- Kornit Digital 27- ITAMMA ( Condolence )

BUDGET 15- Highlights 16- Budget Reactions

COVER STORY : Research on Fibers 17- Comparative study of Viscose Filament/modal and Cuprammonium Rayon /modal Woven printed fabrics by TRADC Scientist 19- Effect On Process Of 100% Polyester Staple Fibre on Rotor Spinning With respect To Polyester Fibre and Spin finish by RSWM ARTICLES 22- HR FOCUS: Recruitment trends in Spinning industry by Mr. Saurabh Agarwal 23- FABRIC FOCUS: Fabric Innovations: Category Evolution perspective by Mr. Vishnu Govind 25- Brand Equity: Power of Brands By Mr. Rushin 26- Technical Textile : Disposable textiles by Mr. Avinash Mayekar 28- Linking Indication to development through GI by Mr. T.K. Rout POST EVENT REPORT 33- Make in India 34-IPTEX 16 36- TAI on ITMA 2015 37- CMAI on excise duty MARKET REPORT 37- Cotton Report 40- Synthetic Yarn Report 39- Surat Report 42- Malegaon Report COMPANY KNOW HOW 43- Taiwan Textile in Technotex 44- Rieter 45- DTC Printer 46- SHOW CALENDAR

Advertiser Index Back Page : Raymond Back Inside : Liva Front Inside : BSL suiting

Page 10 - Jinjiang Fair

Page 3-Vardhman Textiles

Page 49-SITEX

Page 5- SGS Innovations

Page 50- Sanjay Platics

Page 7- RIETER

Page 51- Taiwan @ Technotex

Page 8- TECHNOTEX

Page 52- Texfair

Page 9- RABATEX

Page 53- RSWM

Page 47- Amarjothi & TVC Page 48- Dynamic Autolooms

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March 2016


Rieter

EVEREADY A Rieter Com�®ring licensee in India

“My customers place repeat orders – Com4®ring yarn gives them confidence in respect of lower variation in yarn quality to produce consistent quality fabrics.” Mr. S. Saravanakumar, Managing Director, Eveready Spinning Mills Pvt. Ltd. Eveready Spinning Mills Private Limited was established in the year ����. The group now operates four spinning mills located within a � km radius. The currently installed capacity of the group exceeds ��� ��� spindles, � ��� rotors and �� high-speed automatic circular knitting machines. It has a production capacity of �� million kilograms of yarn per year.

The total turnover of the group is US� ��� million. Quality is an important topic within the company. The group is ISO ����:���� certified by UKAS Quality Management System. In addition, certification for “Usterized Yarn” has been recommended.

Com�® Yarns – Yarns of Choice Com4® yarns from Rieter spinning machines fulfill the most exacting requirements. Excellent properties ensure competitiveness in a dynamic market. The benefits are also visible in downstream processing and in the final product.

www.rieter.com

– ring-spun yarn

– compacted ring-spun yarn

– rotor-spun yarn

– air-jet-spun yarn

EVEREADY Spinning Mills Pvt. Ltd., Kottaiyur, Thadicombu – ��� ��� Dindigul, Tamilnadu, India info@evereadygroups.com www.evereadymills.com


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NEWS Ready-Made Garments Sec‐ tor Gets a Breather Amid EU’s Tariff Suspension

• The Indian Ready-Made Garment Sector continues to enjoy 20% tariff preference for the next three years from 2017-19 • With China being removed from the list of beneficiaries; the Indian Products with duty preference will definitively have an edge in the European market. • The exports to EU in RMG sector from India is 36% of the total exports of RMG The European Union recently announced its scheme of generalized tariff preferences for the next three years from 2017-19. Indian Ready Made Garments sector continues to enjoy its position of being a beneficiary under the current scheme which has affected the textile sector through removal of this tariff preference. Section 11 (b) of the EU GSP provides for trade preferences for the Ready-Made Garments sector. As of now the trade preferences which India enjoys with the EU, under the Generalized Scheme of Preferences was coming to an end on December 31, 2016, has been extended for a period of three years from 2017-19. Under this extension India’s RMG sector will continue to get 20% tariff preference on exports to EU for three consecutive years. RMG sector will be highly benefited from this extension of trade preferences. The removal of textile sector comes in the wake of export of more than the allotted 14.5% of the threshold. AEPC, the apex body of apparel exporters expressed its happiness at the continuation of the 20% tariff preference to Indian imports. China has been removed from the list of beneficiaries. Mr. Ashok G Rajani, Chairman AEPC said that, “Our endeavor now is signing of FTA with EU as early as possible.”

Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India” (ASSOCHAM) at ‘Award-cum-summit ’Skilling India’: The Way Forward” on March 15 at a function held in Shangri-La Hotel, New Delhi. The award was conferred by Sri. Rajiv Pratap Rudy, Hono’ble Minister, Ministry of Skill Development & Employment, GOI . Dr. Darlie Koshy, DG&CEO-ATDC&IAM, received the award on behalf of ATDC on 15th March 2016. Sri. G. S. Madan, VC, ATDC was also present at the occasion. The other dignitaries present at the event were Shri Jayant Krishna, CEO, National Skill Development Corporation, Shri Sunil Kanoria, President, ASSOCHAM, Shri Rohit Nandan, IAS, Secretary, Minister of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship and Prof. SK Mehrotra, JNU. ATDC has been selected for this award for its contribution to large scale quality skilling of Indian youth specially women in rural/ mofussils and semi urban areas for meeting the rapidly changing skill requirements of Apparel Sector with real time Industry relevant skill modules & new learning solutions, thus providing wage employment for youth specially women having dedicated verticals to work with Ministry of Textiles, GOI (for ISDS Project), DGE&T (Ministry of Skill Development & Entrepreneurship, GOI) (for Longer Duration Vocational Courses) and AICTE (Ministry of HRD, GOI) & RGNIYD (Ministry of Youth Affairs & Sports, GOI) (for B. Voc. Courses). While exporters require cycle & through put time to be brought down in the context of ‘FastFashions’ approach gaining ground worldover, the domestic sector wants “Product Lifecycle Management” ‘fast-turnaround of store merchandising’, captivating visuals etc. The e-commerce/m-commerce wants fashion to meet instant gratification standard with supply chain-logistic management. ATDC is the largest vocational training provider for the textile-apparel chain offering

ATDC honoured with ‘Best Vocational Training Provid‐ er (VTP) Training 2016’ by ASSOCHAM Apparel Training & Design Centre (ATDC), India’s Largest Quality Vocational Training Provider for the Apparel Industry was awarded ‘Best Vocational Training Provider (VTP) Training 2016’ by “Associated

March 2016

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a comprehensive bouquet of courses for ‘career’ progression in an integrated manner by creating a “step ladder-training ecosystem” with clear focus on “Skilling of aspirational Indian youth”. Sri. Rajiv Pratap Rudy, Hono’ble Minister, Ministry of Skill Development & Employment, GOI said “We always talk about doctors, engineers, professors and other professionals but we hardly talk about skills. The world skill was never part of our system. Our Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi understood the importance of skill development and created Skill Development Ministry. There was a need to create this ministry, we talk about convergence, globalization, training, identifying talent but what in particular is there which is different, it is the skills. For years we have only spoken about education and being educated being skilled was never our priority. I congratulate all of you who have been working towards Skilling India and giving direction to the youth of the country” “ATDC heralded the large scale quality skill training in Apparel sector on a Pan-India basis, since 2010 by creating a new model for training infrastructure, curricula and a youthful brand. ATDC Team is proud to receive this award after training over 1,60,000 candidates in short term and nearly 40,000 candidates in longer duration programmes through about 176 centres Pan-India in last 5 years exceed over 2 lakhs candidates. The award is yet another important milestone in our journey of ‘Upskilling, Reskilling, Newskilling’ of youth and women which ATDC has undertaken over the last 5-6 years on PanIndia basis. ATDC further through an “integrated step-ladder eco system” for skill training in downstream apparel sector ensures employment of youth and empowerment of women creating multiplier effect in rural economy while providing professional workforce at different levels to widely dispersed apparel manufacturing clusters. B. Voc. is dedicated to the aspirational youth of India who can choose to grow as the opportunities come by meeting them with matching skills and competencies” Dr. Darlie Koshy, DG & CEO-ATDC& IAM. ATDC has been recognised earlier nationally for its innovative training initiatives like creation of brand ‘SMART’ (Skills for Manufacturing of Apparel through Research & Train-

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NEWS ing), Launch of ATDC-JUKI Tech Innovation Centre, ‘Product Specialty Centres’, denovo approach es such as Simulated Production Environment, State-of-the-Art Infrastructure, SMART Trainee Kits, Training of Trainers Academies for Continuous upgradation. Today, ATDC is a largest vocational training provider for the apparel sector in the country with about 176 ATDCs including 65 ATDC Vocational Institutes, about 115 ATDC-SMART Centres offering state-of the- art vocational programmes being the single largest training provider for any vocational trade in India. ATDC has also received the ‘Best Training Institution-National’ by Education Award (Franchise India) & ASSOCHAM Award for ‘Best Institute: Innovation 2015’ and is a proud recipient of UK-India Skill Forum Award in 2011 as well. Speaking on the occasion Sri. G. S. Madan, VC, ATDC said “I would like to thank “ASSOCHAM” for conferring this ‘Best Vocational Training Provider (VTP) Training 2016’ award to ATDC for its pioneering & singular achievements and congratulate Team ATDC for working tirelessly towards ATDC’s vision of “Imparting Skills, Improving Lives .”

ARVIND to “RELOAD”the Indian Stretch Denims Arvind with its belief in design, innovation and sustainabilityhas delivered many firsts in denim, enabling brands to bring differentiated products for their respective discerning customers. This is happening yet again with the denim expert to reloadthe Denim Market of India with some energizing concepts with their festive 2016 collection – RELOAD . Arvind showcases its Stretch Denim Powered by LYCRA® in an exclusive event at The Lalit, Mumbai for Festive 2016 for the Indian market.The festive 2016 denim collection has latest in denim innovations from Arvind with inventive concepts of Mutant Denim, Denim Structures, Neo Denim, Neo Cord, Neo Bubble and Boomerang Denim. All the concepts have stretches powered by LYCRA® fiber. The denim products in each of these concepts are styled thematically and washed in best of laundries across the world. These products are displayed category wise andshowcased in an exclusive runway show choreographed by Prasad Bi-

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dapa. During this event Arvind continues with the brand promise to its trade partners through the “Arvind Stretch Denim powered by LYCRA®” hangtag. This is provided proportionately with all Arvind denim fabrics. The brand and the garment manufacturer are already using these on each of their denim garments made by Arvind Stretch Denim powered by LYCRA®. This enablesto communicate the brand essence to end consumers makingit stand apart in the crowd providing a heartfelt assurance to the end consumer. Brief discussion with Mr. Amir Akhtar, CEO of Arvind Denim, he does not feel that there is any downfall in denim consumption, though there is many alternative fabrics, garments taken place in women’s wardrobe apart from denim. Old fashion denim without stretch no more in use, consumer wants stretch fabrics. Denim is forever fashion, it will never be FAD. We are fabric manufacturer who is supplying to all major Indian & International brands. All brands need variety in fabrics, so we tie up with another international brand for our sourcing requirement of fiber.

ColorJet to launch high speed industrial grade digi‐ tal textile printer Metro at GARFAB

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METRO is a versatile technologically advanced printer & gives the best ROI and scalability for a, forever growing business Operates at a maximum speed of 362 sq. meters per hour and delivers daily production of 8,000 sq. meters. Demonstration with 8 colour disperse inks After receiving good reviews and orders

at ITMA 2015, ColorJet Group, India’s largest manufacturer of digital printing machines is now introducing the METRO at GARFAB 2016 to be held from March 18-20, 2016 at Surat International Exhibition & Convention Centre, Surat in Stall B-8. The METRO is a truly advanced high speed industrial grade digital textile printer, which fantastically incorporates the latest technology and efficient engineering to meet ever growing demands. It operates at a maximum speed of 362 sq. metres per hour The high speed is achieved through specially designed jetting controls to optimise print heads performance, to match the high jetting frequency and the mechanical structure is designed to handle high speeds and precise dot placements Compatible to work with all types of inks like reactive acid disperse and pigment, this printer weaves magic on a variety of fabrics. Be it any kind of fabric, ranging from 0.1mm to 30mm including cotton, polyester, silk, viscose, wool, nylon, acetate and various blended fabrics can be printed on the METRO. With awesome scalable properties, this printer can suit all the needs of the textile printing business and delivers in the least payback period. It is equipped with a heater and feeder is capable of meeting the ever changing requirements of the fabric printing industry. At GARFAB, visitors will be able to witness how the METRO has been synchronised and engineered specifically to produce the best results with pigment inks. Its unique value proposition for customers is the synchronised technology to ensure smooth firing of jetting assembly for faster and smoother productions with pigment inks. Automatic temperature control enables printheads to deliver same print results with Pigment inks, while specially integrated VPC technology ensures smooth flow of pigment ink for uninterrupted production runs, while delivering excellent quality prints by virtue of the eight colour inks without compromising on the speed. Alongside, Colorjet Group will also be showcasing its bestselling VASTRAJET; a commercial grade digital textile printer offering production speeds of 4,000 metres per day and thereby meets the normal daily requirements of a textile printing house, while being suitable for natural as well as polyester based fabrics like georgette, moss crepe, weightless, chiffon, etc. “We have chosen GARFAB 2016 for the

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March 2016


NEWS launch of the METRO, since Surat is the textile capital of India as it contributes 40 percent of man-made fabric production in India and at the same time, we also have the highest number of installations in this textile hub,” Mr. Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager at ColorJet said. “Apart from the price being very competitive, since our digital textile printers are manufactured at a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in India itself, buyers of our machines are eligible for various subsidies and benefits offered by the Government of India under EPCG & TUF schemes,” Mr. Bansal added.

Instrument Recognition The ITMF International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM) met in Bremen, Germany on March 15, 2016. Four companies from Germany, India, Italy, Switzerland and a research organization in Australia each made presentations on developments in instruments to assess cotton quality parameters for “Recognition” by the ICCTM. Textechno, a German firm, demonstrated the capabilities of a new instrument for detecting, counting and classifying neps and trash in samples of cotton and cotton sliver. MAG, an Indian company, discussed recent engineering advances in trash-testing technology. Mesdan, an Italian firm, and Loepfe, a company in Switzerland, explained the engineering principles behind new instruments developed jointly by the two companies to test cotton and cotton sliver for stickiness and other parameters. CSIRO, an Australian research organization, requested “Recognition” for an instrument to test cotton fibers for maturity. Cottonscope has been developed over several years by engineers at CSIRO to make direct measurements of fiber maturity using image analysis of cross sections of fibers. Advances in the basic science of measuring cotton fiber maturity are yielding the potential for creating better calibration materials for commercial measurement. Improvements in maturity measurements have produced relatively slow methods that are still very useful as tools for cotton breeders as they move forward with creating the cotton fibers of the future. However, faster

March 2016

maturity measurements currently in use in mill laboratories will benefit from these improved maturity reference measurements as existing instrumentation is upgraded. A core function of the ICCTM is to review applications from instrument manufacturers for “Recognition” of instruments as being sufficiently accurate, precise, and with results that are sufficiently repeatable so as to be commercially relevant to the cotton and cotton textile industries. Members of the ICCTM include engineers and scientists from around the world conducting research on cotton quality evaluation in six task force groups: HVI, elongation, stickiness, maturity, neps/trash, and color. The ICCTM meets every two years at the beginning of each International Cotton Conference Bremen.

Basic Science The ITMF International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM) met in Bremen, Germany on March 15, 2016 to review latest developments in cotton fiber testing and to set priorities for research over the next two years. Major results of the meeting are: High volume cotton testing continues to progress, particularly for instrumentation suited for spinning mill applications. As breeding programs and the use of cotton hybrids result in improvements in the intrinsic technical performance properties of cotton fiber, more attention is being paid to the range and types of calibration cottons used with HVI. The ICCTM discussed procedures to ensure that calibration cottons used in testing different cotton species provide adequate ranges of fiber properties so as to provide reliable measurements. Fiber elongation as a cotton property is gaining renewed interest as modern highspeed yarn production systems demand a combination of both fiber strength and elongation to operate efficiently and to produce yarn properties needed in markets today. New elongation measurement algorithms have been developed and are being tested. Comparative studies to ensure that multiple test instruments give the same measurement level are underway. Methodologies to improve elongation measurement and selection criteria for cotton breeders continue to be emphasized. With the availability of very high speed computer technology, the use of imaging for measuring cotton trash and extraneous matter, both in cotton classing and in mill laboratories, is moving forward. Presentations on both classing applications and mill laboratory applications that use modern im-

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aging technology were offered. Additional information are available from www.ITMF.org.

SIMA appeals Finance Minister for allocation of Rs.5,500 crores for TUFS The Indian textile industry has been facing a long drawn recession since April 2014 owing to global economic slowdown and higher tariff imposed on Indian textiles and clothing products in all the major textile markets when compared to its competing Nations like Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Turkey, Cambodia, etc. Realizing the need for enhancing the competitiveness, the Union Government had extended 2% MEIS benefit and 3% IES benefit for all textile products other than cotton yarn. The spinning sector has appealed to the government to extend the export benefits for cotton yarn, also as the sector is the worst affected due to surplus capacities. The Cabinet Committee has already approved extending the TUF scheme for the entire 13th five year plant period and also approved allocation of Rs.17,822 crores to meet the committed liabilities of the scheme under pipelines and also the ongoing schemes and also the new scheme. Under the Amended TUF Scheme, the spinning sector has been excluded while 15% capital subsidy has been extended for garments and technical textiles and 10% capital subsidy for weaving and processing sectors. The interest subsidies ranging from 2% to 6% extended under earlier scheme has been discontinued. In a press release issued here today, Mr.M.Senthilkumar, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has appealed to the Hon’ble Union Finance Minister, vide a representation sent today, to allocate adequate funds for clearing TUF subsidy backlog since September 2014. He has said that as the subsidy is pending for more than one and half years, the working capital has been totally eroded and most of the spinning mills are incurring cash losses due to glut in the market. SIMA chief pointed out that Union Budget 2016-17 has allocated only Rs.1480 crores for TUFS as against the actual requirement of around Rs.7000 crores. Therefore, he appealed to the Hon’ble Minister to allocate the balance fund of around Rs.5500 crores to meet the liabilities of backlog period and also to meet the liabilities up to

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NEWS 31st March 2017. He has added that several hundreds of textile units are likely to become NPAs as the TUF subsidy has not been released on time. He has appealed to the Union Finance Ministry to allot the required funds immediately to prevent the textile units becoming NPAs.

Transmatic SRL & Apsom Infotex Limited To Launch TRANSMATIC 7360 SPORT At Garfab-TX 2016 In Surat Apsom Infotex Ltd unveils a new innovation in the Digital printer domain: Launch of the TRANS 7360 SPORT; an oil based Calender for the Indian subcontinent at the upcoming Garfab-TX Surat. Garfab-TX is a three day event will be held from 18th March to 20th March 2016 at the Surat International Exhibition & Convention Centre in Surat, India, where potential buyers will witness the complete sublimation solution offered by Apsom: A Super fast Sublimation Printer Roland XT – 640 coupled with The Transmatic 7360 SPORT. An oil calendar which is specially designed to meet the increasing demand for inkjet Dye – Sublimation transfer technology. After printing on paper, users can transfer to knit, synthetic fabrics and other fabrics such as polyester, nylon and acrylic - the TRANS 7360 SPORT is the next big thing to make its entry in the digital print industry. In the case of printing directly onto cloth by means of digital printers it is also suitable for fixing the colour pigments perfectly at low cost and mean to give great returns. The printer shows umpteen capabilities to ease the strenuous effort of traditional printing methods, with its digitally controlled adjustable speed and intelligent features like automatic machine turn off once it reaches a temperature of 110° C, this printer works like a sheer genius. TRANS 7360 SPORT has a new system of heating oil that ensures a uniform temperature distribution over the entire length of the cylinder with a minimum consumption of energy. The heating systems oil that the printer consumes is 50% less energy of electric machines. The exhibition will also showcase the Texart XT-640 dye-sublimation transfer printer, which is one of Roland’s latest edition to the Indian market. The Texart XT-640 is a unique dye-sublimation transfer printer designed for the textile printing industry. It

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offers a wide range of textile applications including sports merchandising, fashion apparel, soft signs (polyester banners and flags), home furnishing interior décor, promotional items and personalized gifts. With a goal to offer print businesses outstanding productivity and image quality, Apsom will exhibit the leading innovation TRANS 7360 SPORT and Texart XT-640, which boast inherent safety and eco-friendly features, to add value for users that work in the print world and sublimation market. Available from Apsom Infotex Ltd in India, the two printers are on display throughout the event.

ThreadSol at Saigon Tex Vietnam 2016 The pioneer in enterprise material management solutions is coming to Vietnam to display its marvellous solutions for Vietnam apparel industry ThreadSol is pleased to announce its presence at Saigon Tex 2016, opening on 30th March in Vietnam. The ThreadSol exhibit will be located at Hall B3, Booth 23 of the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC). ThreadSol will present its strategic vision for the Vietnam apparel industry during the Saigon Tex exhibition. “The challenges manufacturers possess in context of economic slowdown and rising wages can be neutralized by the unseen opportunities of material saving”, explains ManasijGanguli, CEO at ThreadSol. ThreadSol’s outlook is to introduce technologically driven products to drive manufacturing by targeting material cost. This is to differentiate manufacturers from the extremely competitive environment for breakthrough profits and improved customer service. “It is high time apparel manufacturers realize the gravity of targeting fabric cost to increase profits. If they want to stay competitive, they need to achieve this through automation of processes by adopting advanced solutions”, Manasij further adds. “We see Vietnam aiming to reach $40 million in apparel exports in the next 5 years. This is a very critical juncture where material costs need to be lowered to increase profits, especially with brands squeezing the manufacturers

for lower costs”, says Saurav Ujjain, Country Head (VN) at ThreadSol. ThreadSol solutions intelloBuy and intelloCut work with the notion to target fabric cost and have been adopted by the top manufacturers in Vietnam like Fashion Garments Ltd. In Bien Hoa, Tan Phu and Xuan Tam, PT Daese Garmin, Pan Brothers and PT Ameya in Indonesia, Thong Thai in Thailand, Hirdaramani Group in Sri Lanka etc. “We at ThreadSol bring upto 10% material cost reduction to ensure that the profits for these manufacturers go up by 50-60%”, explains Saurav Ujjain. ThreadSol’s participation in Saigon Tex is a step further to market its solutions to the potential manufacturers who can now invest in ThreadSol’s innovative solutions to reinvent their manufacturing efficiency and boost profit margins. About ThreadSol: ThreadSol Softwares was established in 2012 to Challenge the Present of manufacturing industries with its innovative solutions. In the short span of operations, ThreadSol has offices in Delhi, Bangalore, Jakarta, Colombo, Istanbul, Ho Chi Minh City and Dhaka. 70+ customers in 12 geographies plan 2 million garments through our solutions, every day. ThreadSol solutions- intelloCut and intelloBuy, currently used by manufacturers in India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, Turkey, Philippines and China, have already set standards amongst Sewn Products’ automation solutions worldwide. With over 70 success stories around the world, ThreadSol is a name synonymous with consistent material saving and sustainable profit, providing incredible benefits to the customers. For more information, visit www. threadsol.com

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March 2016


HIGHLIGHTS

UNION BUDGET 2016-17 ( VIKAS KA BUDGET)

Indian PM Mr. Narendra Modi called union budget 2016-17 as “ Vikas ka Budget” or “Growth oriented budget”. Focus of the budget is to grow & help poor, villagers, women & youth. Economics: Growth of Indian economy is 7.6 % in 2015-16, though IMF consider as “Bright” due to Growth is in positive direction against odds like shortfall of monsoon, slowing economy in the world. Foreign exchange reserves are 350 billion USD. Priority: • Stability in Macro economics, financial debts. • Change the life of people which increase Domestic demand. • Priority sectors are agriculture & rural, social, infrastructure, employment , banking • Agriculture sector allocated funds are Rs. 35984 crore • Rural sector allocated funds are Rs. 87765 crore • Social sector , education & health care sector allocated Rs. 1,51,581 crore • Skill development allocated fund are Rs. 1804 crore • Job creation allocated fund are Rs. 1000 crores • Infrastructure total : Rs. 2, 21, 246 crores, in which Roads sector : Rs. 55000 crore • Recapitalization of Public sector bank allocated Rs. 25000 crores • Textiles allocated funds are Rs. 4594 crore Textile Specific Budget Overview : • Basic Custom Duty Reduced to 2.5% for textile raw materials used in Technical textiles. The goods included under this facility are Nylon 66 filament yarn, Polyester anti static filament yarn, Aramid flame retardant fibre, Para-aramid fibre, Nylon staple fibre, Nylon anti static staple fibre, Modacrylic fibre and Flame retardant viscose rayon yarn. This measure will help bring down the input cost for several technical textiles manufacturers in the country. • Basic customs duty on import of fabrics reduced to zero provided these articles are imported to manufacture garments for export. Also, the string attached to this facility that the total value of goods imported shall not exceed one per cent of the Free on Board (FOB) value of textile garments exported during the preceding financial year. The products included to this facility are cotton and elastane printed fabrics, cotton and metallic yarn dyed blended fabrics, cotton and spandex and metallic blended fabrics, cotton and silk lining fabric, 100% linen chambray woven/dyed fabric, 100% ramie dyed /blended printed yarn dyed fabric, nylon and spandex lining fabrics, 100% polyester velvet dyed fabric,

March 2016

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cotton / nylon / embroidery crochet lace lining fabric from the chapters 50, 52, 54, 55 or any other chapter. • Budget Allocation To Ministry of Textiles Increased The ministry has received Rs. 4594.82 crores for the upcoming financial year to support its various schemes covering the entire textile industry. In 2015-16, the budget allocation for the ministry was Rs. 4326.44 crores. The flagship ATUF scheme has been allocated Rs. 1480 crores for FY 2016-17 compared to Rs. 1510.79 crores in the FY 2015-16. Apart from ATUFS, all central funded schemes for textile sector have received required allocation of funds. • Consumption Of Textiles And Apparel To Grow The Government’s focus on the farmer and rural sector is expected to boost the economic health of rural India which in return will improve consumption of textiles and apparels. Significantly large expenditure by the government in the rural and agricultural sector will stimulate demand. Domestic textile market size is anticipated to grow significantly, driven by increased consumption from rural and semi urban areas in the next 2-3 years. • RMG Sector Under The Excise Net The FM has proposed to change the excise duty on branded readymade garments and made up articles of textiles with a retail sale price of Rs 1,000 and above from ‘nil without input tax credit or 6%/12.5% with input tax credit’ to ‘2% without input tax credit or 12.5% with input tax credit’. How Cotton Could Benefit The government aims to double farm income by 2020, making farming a more lucrative activity. This should address the problem of high suicide rates among farmers, especially cotton farmers. The proposed schemes for organic farming should give a boost to organic farming of cotton too, creating much value for the chain. Moreover, to improve farm productivity, the government has identified irrigation projects as focus area, further giving a boost to the cotton and agricultural economy. Infrastructure Development – An Opportunity For Geotech Manufacturers The total investment in the road sector, including PMGSY allocation, would be Rs 97,000 crore during 2016-17. Skill Development Since its launch, the National Skill Development Mission has imparted training to 76 lakh youth, who found employment in various sectors, including textiles and clothing. The FM, in his budget speech announced, “We want to bring entrepreneurship to the doorsteps of youth through Pradhan Mantri Kaushal Vikas Yojana (PMKVY). We have decided to set up 1500 Multi Skill Training Institutes across the country. I am setting aside an amount of Rs 1,700 crore for these initiatives.” Tax Reforms Presumptive taxation scheme under section 44AD of the Income Tax Act is available for small and medium enterprises i.e noncorporate businesses with turnover or gross receipts not exceeding Rs 1 crore. This frees them from the burden of maintaining detailed books of account and getting audit done. The FM has increased the turnover limit under this scheme to Rs 2 crore, allowing a large number of assesses in the MSME category.

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BUDGET REACTIONS

Growth oriented budget - SIMA chief

Central Budget Again Hits Branded

The Union Budget 2016-17 has come out with nine thrust areas to enable the country to achieve a sustained growth rate inspite of slow down in the global economy.

Garments and Made Ups: CMAI

In a Press Release issued here today, Mr.M.Senthilkumar, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has welcomed the nine pillars of growth trajectory budget marking at developing infrastructure, skill Upgradation, agriculture development (doubling farmers income by 2022), health care, social development, education, etc. SIMA Chief has also welcomed the nine point agenda to ensure compliance, ease of doing business, curbing black money, providing opportunity for declaring undisclosed income, etc. With regard to textiles, Mr.Senthilkumar has thanked the Government for continuing optional Cenvat route on cotton textiles which was the main demand of the Association. He has expressed his gratitude to the Hon’ble Prime Minister, Hon’ble Finance Minister and the Government for allocating Rs.1480 crores for Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme. He has stated that additional funds would be required to meet the pending subsidies since September 2014. Mr.Senthilkumar has also welcomed the reduction of basic customs duty on MMF from 5% to 2.5% though the Association has demanded for total withdrawal. He has stated that reduction in customs duty on MMF would marginally improve the competitiveness of the MMF and their blended textile manufacturers in the country. Mr.Senthilkumar has opined that the Government could have avoided imposing 2% central excise duty without Cenvat credit facility or 12.5% central excise duty with Cenvat credit facility on branded ready-made garments and made-ups materials priced above Rs.1000/-. He has said that as the Central government is expected to implement GST in short while, the Centre could have avoided levy of central excise duty on such items. He has stated that the tariff value of ready-made garments/ made-ups for the purpose of levying central excise duty has been increased from 30% to 60% of the MRP which would marginally increase the cost for the consumers. However, SIMA Chief has thanked the Government for exempting non-branded textile items below the value of Rs.1000/from the purview of excise duty which would benefit the people below the poverty line. Mr.Senthilkumar while commenting on the various benefits extended for the skill development and job creation in the Nation, has hailed EPF benefit of 8.33% extended for the new entrants in the EPF. He has stated that this would significantly improve the compliance and also ensure social security of the employees. SIMA Chief has also appreciated the enhancement of limit of House Rent Allowance from Rs.24,000/- to Rs.60,000/- which would benefit the salaried class.

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.Shri Rahul Mehta, President of Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), Mumbai has expressed anguish at the way the Central Budget presented in Parliament today has hit the garments and made ups segment of the textiles industry. In a statement issued here he recalled that introduction of duty on finished products, while sustaining the exemption for upstream products, was an experiment implemented a few years back by the previous government and withdrawn subsequently when the disastrous consequences were understood. Repeating that experiment is the last thing that the industry needed, especially when the entire textiles and clothing industry in the country is already going through a crisis because of demand recession both in the domestic and export markets. Shri Mehta pointed out that the very task of collecting this duty from the highly dispersed and mostly tiny units in the garment sector would be a formidable one for the government, especially when the rest of the value chain remains exempted and therefore traceability will be a serious issue. The large number of small and tiny units in the sector will also find it impossible to follow the procedures involved. The result will be that evaders will prosper and compliant units will suffer. He added that the revenue for government from this decision will be negligible, whereas the problems that it would create for the industry will be huge. According to Mr. Mehta, the imposition is all the more surprising when the Finance Minister rightly emphasized in his speech the importance of Job Creation and the Make in India thrust. Textile is the highest employer after Agriculture, and hence it is indeed ironical that new Taxes are being levied on such an Industry. As it is, the Industry is going through a rough patch, with the onslaught of Online Companies with their high discounting, and the somewhat sluggish sentiments of the market. This imposition will worsen the situation. It is also crucial to note that the current period was seeing a lot of Exporters, hoping to off set their slow down in Global Markets, making an entry in the Domestic sector. Their efforts would again hit a roadblock. Shri Rahul Mehta requested the Finance Minister to withdraw this duty and continue the optional duty regime that applies currently, until GST is introduced. He pointed out that once GST is introduced, the whole value chain will be covered by duty and traceability as well as compliance will improve tremendously and implementation problems will also ease considerably.

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March 2016


COVER STORY

Comparative study of Viscose Fila‐ ment Yarn/Modal and Cuprammo‐ nium Rayon/Modal Woven Printed Fabric

Abstract Modal fibre is known for its softness, smoothness and drape. Industry is using modal fibre in weft along with filament in warp for the dress material to achieve the required attributes in fabric. In the present study we have objectively measured and compared hand feel of two candidates Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal and Cuprammonium Rayon/Modal. It is found that Total Hand Value (THV) is better in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal than Cuprammonium/Modal by 0.21 basis points. Compression Property is better in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal since it scores better than Cuprammonium on LC, WC and RC. Stretch and recovery is better in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal than Cuprammonium/ Modal because of higher value of EMT and RT by 0.57and 5.94 basis unit, respectively. Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal stretches more and has better recovery as compared to Cuprammonium/Modal. It is confirmed that Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal is softer than Cuprammonium/Modal because of low values of B and 2HB by 0.0151 and 0.0040. Smoothness is found to be better in case of Cuprammonium/Modal because of lower frictional values. Key words: Modal, Viscose Filament Yarn, Cuprammonium Rayon, Kawabata

Introduction

The apparel market can be classified into men’s wear, women’s wear and kids wear segments. Among the women’s wear 40 percent is 100% cotton while remaining are blends. Among different fibres rayon was and continues to be an important fibre in this segment. There are different kinds of rayon fibres such as Viscose, Modal, Lyocell and two filament base i.e. Viscose Filament Yarn & Cuprammonium rayon used in this segment due properties like High absorbency, easy to dye, soft on the skin and Smoothness. Viscose Filament Yarn and Cuprammonium are the most popular filaments used in this segment. Cuprammonium rayon is usually made in fine filaments that are used in lightweight summer dresses and blouses, sometimes in combination with cotton to make textured fabrics with slubbed, uneven surfaces. Cuprammonium fibre is a new rayon and renewable cellulose better than real silk, especially in absorbency, colorability, drapability, and antistatic property. The end usages of Cuprammonium rayon are variety of fabrics i.e. in Women’s Wear, Blouses, Underwear, Japanese Dresses, Scarves, Curtain, Bedclothes, and Umbrellas etc. Viscose Filament Yarn, commonly known as “Artificial Silk’ or ‘Art Silk” was a result to find a substitute for silk; it is cellulosic like cotton with aesthetics of silk, but far cheaper than Silk. With the introduction of range of finer deniers with more number of filaments, Viscose Filament Yarn fabric is similar Cupromonium yarn fabric. Further in segments, like Georgette and Crepe fabrics, fabric made from Viscose Filament is superior to Cupromonium yarn due

March 2016

Mr . Rushikesh Raghav Mr. Susuvan Roy

Dr. Ravinder Tuteja

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to particular requirements of the fabric. It is a fine and soft material commonly used in t-shirts, tunics, shirts, nightwear and dresses. The other advantages of Viscose Filament Yarn are it is easily available in market. And it is much cost comparative than Cupprammonium. Thus the present study is designed to compare the comfort characteristic of Viscose Filament Yarn and Cuprammonium rayon.

Methodology

In this study we have selected two most commonly used fabrics in women’s wear to understand the best performance properties. The fabrics were, 1. Viscose Filament Yarn X Modal 2. Cuprammonium/ Modal The physical characteristics of both the fabrics are tabulated below in Table 1. Table 1 Fabric Type

Warp

Weft

EPI

PPI

GSM

Weave

Blend

Viscose Filament Yarn X Modal

50D Viscose Filament Yarn

60s Modal

240

84

91.6

Satin

60s Modal

240

84

92.4

Satin

55% Viscose Filament Yarn /45% Modal

Cuprammonium/ Modal

50D Cuprammonium Rayon

60% Cuprammonium Rayon /40% Modal

The comparison is done with the help of comfort property and performance parameters as tabulated in Table 2. Table 2 Sl. No

Property

1

Comfort Property

2

3

4

Abrasion Resistance

Pilling

Dimensional Stability

Unit

%

Grade

%

Test Method Kawabata Evaluation System

IS 12673-1989

IS 10971-1984

IS 1299-1984

Results & Discussion 1. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES)

This is a Japanese system of objectively measuring the handfeel of fabric. Various properties are measured to understand handfeel related attributes of the fabric. These are as follows: 1A. Primary and Total Hand Values: Total hand value provides an overall evaluation, which is rated on 1 to 5 scales. 1 rating indicates poor result and 5 rating indicate excellent result. Results

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COVER STORY in Table 3 shows that Total Hand Value (THV) is better in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal than Cuprammonium/Modal since the total hand value is higher by 0.21 basis points. As we know the molecular orientation is better in case of Viscose Filament yarn so the hand feel is better in case of Viscose filament fabric. Table 3 Sample ID No. C-14089

C-14091

Sample Marked as Viscose Filament Yarn X Modal Cuprammonium Rayon X Modal

Koshi

4.40

5.52

Numeri

Fukurami

9.19

THV KN-304 Winter

8.24

8.64

5.00

8.03

4.80

1B. Compression properties using Compression Tester (KES-FB3): Compressibility of fabric is defined as the extent or reduction in “Thickness” with the application of normal pressure. Compression Property is better in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/ Modal since it scores better than Cuprammonium on LC, WC and RC as shown in Table 4. Table 4 Sample ID No.

Sample Marked as

LC

WC g.cm/cm^2

RC %

C-14089

Viscose Filament Yarn X Modal

0.780

0.064

67.25

C-14091

Cuprammonium Rayon X Modal

0.907

0.075

61.51

1C. Tensile properties using Tensile Tester (KES-FB1): It measures the stress / strain parameters at a maximum load for the type of material being tested. Table 5 shows that stretch and recovery is better in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal than Cuprammonium/Modal because of higher value of EMT and RT by 0.57and 5.94 basis unit, respectively. Table 5 Sample ID No. C-14089

C-14091

Sample Marked as Viscose Filament Yarn X Modal Cuprammonium Rayon X Modal

LT

WT gf.cm/ cm2

RT %

EMT %

Warp Weft

0.728

0.43

68.05

2.28

0.795

0.45

73.59

Avg

0.863

0.42

70.82

2.18

Warp

0.614

0.16

71.04

1.01

Avg

0.669

0.28

64.88

1.61

Weft

0.724

0.40

58.73

2.09

2.21

1D. Shear properties using Shear Tester (KES-FB1): Shear properties are measure of inter yarn friction force, it represents the stability of fabric to withstand in plane mechanical distortion. Table 6 confirms that Viscose Filament Yarn/modal have better recovery for stretch as compared to Cuprammonium/Modal.

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Table 6 Sample ID No.

Sample Marked as

C-14089

Viscose Filament Yarn X Modal

C-14091

Cuprammonium Rayon X Modal

G

gf/cm. deg

2HG gf/cm

2HG5 gf/ cm

Warp Weft

0.24 0.24

0.07

0.07

Avg

0.24

0.06 0.07

0.05

Warp

0.28

0.15

0.19

Avg

0.30

0.15

0.19

Weft

0.32

0.14

0.04 0.18

1E. Bending properties using Pure Bending Tester (KES-FB2): It relates to the softness of fabric. Results tabulated in Table 7 confirms that shows that Viscose Filament Yarn X modal is softer than Cuprammonium/Modal because of low values of B and 2HB by 0.0151 and 0.0040. Table 7 Sample ID No.

Sample Marked as

C-14089

Viscose Filament Yarn X Modal

C-14091

Cuprammonium Rayon X Modal

B gf.cm2/cm

2HB cm

gf.cm/

Warp Weft

0.0178

Avg

0.0035

0.0103

0.0107

0.0121

Warp

0.0423

0.0252

Avg

0.0258

0.0161

Weft

0.0093

0.0138

0.0069

1F. Surface Properties using Surface Tester (KES-FB4): It relates to the Surface smoothness, evenness and geometrical arrangement of fabric. Results in Table 8 shows that Smoothness is better in case of Cuprammonium/Modal because of lower frictional values. Table 8 Sample ID No.

Sample Marked as

C-14089

Viscose Filament Yarn X Modal

C-14091

Cuprammonium Rayon X Modal

MIU Warp Weft Avg

Warp Weft Avg

MMD

0.119

0.0034

0.200

0.160 0.113

0.174

0.0073

0.0054 0.0033

0.143

0.0072

0.0052

SMD (μm) 1.52

5.04

3.28 1.55

4.46

3.01

Conclusion

From the above measured parameters, we can conclude that Viscose Filament Yarn /Modal base fabrics are better than Cuprammonium/Modal base fabrics in terms of y Total Hand Value y Softness y Bending y Frictional Properties and y Compression and Resilience

Acknowledgement We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Dr. Vijayramakrisnan (Head TRADC) for his valuable guidance, support and encouragement throughout this study. Very special thanks to the staffs of Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology for the assistance throughout the study.

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March 2016


COVER STORY Performance Properties Fabrics were tested and results are tabulated below. Table 9 Property

Unit

Viscose Filament Yarn/ Modal

Cuprammonium/ Modal

Test Method

EPI X PPI

Nos.

240 X 84

240X72

IS 19631981

Width

cm

112.1

114

grade

GSM

Abrasion resistance (Wt. loss@2000rev) Pilling

Dimensional stability

gms %

%

91.6

92.4

ISO 3801 1977

2.56

2.02

4-5

4-5

IS 126731989

Warp: -3.75 Weft: -1.25

Warp: -5.0 Weft: -0.5

IS 19541990

IS 109711984 IS 12991984

* Performance testing was done at TRADC, Birla dham, Kharach, Dist. Bharuch, Gujrat. References 1. Handbook of Fiber Science and Technology, Fiber Chemistry, Vol. IV. 2.http://www.mindfully.org/Plastic/Cellulose/RayonFiber,htm(1of15)7/2/2007. 3. Mechanical Properties as a base for haptic sensing of virtual fabrics, M. Varheenmaa (Tampere University of Technology, Fibre Materials Science, SmartWearLab, Finland) & H. Meinander

(Tampere University of Technology, Fibre Materials Science, SmartWearLab, Finland). 4. A Comparative Study of Regenerated bamboo, cotton and viscose rayon fabrics. Part 1: Selected Comfort Properties, Adine Gericke & Jani van der Pol, ISSN 0378-5254, Journal of Family Ecology and Consumer Sciences, Vol 38, 2010. 5. http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/tpacc/comfort-performance/kawabata-evaluation-system.cfm. 6. Kawabata Evaluation System, Arsheen Moiz, Mansoor Iqbal, Aleem Ahmed And Kamran Farooq, www.fibre2fashion.com ,Tuesday, March 02, 2010. 7. Sensorial Comfort of Textile Materials, Gonca Ozcelik Kayseri1, Nilgun Ozdil2 and Gamze Supuren Menguc, Turkey. 8. Modelling Hysteresis in the Bending of Fabrics by Timothy John Lahey, A thesis presented to the University of Waterloo in fulfilment of the thesis requirement for the degree of Master of Applied Science in Systems Design Engineering Waterloo, Ontario, Canada, 2002. 9. Physical testing of textile, Savila, Woodhead Publisher. 10. Kawabata, S. The Standardization and Analysis of Hand Evaluation (2nd edition), The Hand Evaluation and Standardization Committee. The Textile Machinery Society of Japan, July 1980. 96 p. 11. Fabric testing, Woodhead Publisher 12. Principal of textile testing, E.P.Booth. 13. Textile testing and quality control, Grover. TRADC, Birla Cellulose Bharuch, Gujarat, India E mail: ravinder.tuteja@adityabirla.com susuvan.roy@adityabirla.com rushikesh.raghav@adityabirla.com

EFFECT ON PROCESS OF 100% POLYESTER STAPLE FIBRE ON RO‐ TOR SPINNING WITH RESPECT TO POLYESTER FIBRE AND SPIN‐ FINISH Satyakam Srivastava1, D K Sharma1, Satyapal Singh1, Neeraj Dwivedi1, Babu Matthew1, 1 Unit 7, RSWM Limited, Lodha, Banswara, Rajashthan, India

Abstract

Rotor spinning systems provide yarn with different structures and properties as compared to ring spinning. Each system has its limitations and advantages in terms of technical feasibility and economic viability. Various counts were produced from the above systems with different specific spin finish and tested. The polyester fibre exhibited various levels of imperfection in rotor yarn tested on Uster tester 4. Tensile, evenness and hairiness of the yarns were studied. Impact of Environmental condition, fibre finish, fibre length, fibre denier was observed. Objective was to create a lowest imperfection yarn at Rotor Spinning which in turn is to be used to produce awnings and coated fabrics with zero defects on surface.

March 2016

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Process involved material processing on standard Trutzschler Blowroom line, equipped with Trutzschler Card TC – 05 (3), Trutzschler Drawframes TD – 03, and Schlafhorst ACO-8 latest Rotor spinning machine.

INTRODUCTION

Polyester was one of the great man-made fibre discoveries of the forties and has been manufactured on an industrial scale since 1947. Polyester fibres are the first choice for apparel and are used in trousers, skirts, dresses, suits, jackets, blouses and outdoor clothing Polyester fibres are particularly resistant to light and weather and can withstand climatic effects. They can be used where light-

19


COVER STORY ness and fineness are primary requirements. Polyester fibres are very well suited to blends with natural fibres. Fabrics in 100% polyester, or blends with an appropriately high proportion, are very crease-resistant and retain shape even when affected by moisture. Polyester fibres have good moisture transport and dry quickly. They are easy care. High tenacity ensures above-average wear qualities. Polyester fibres are available in Cut lengths of 32, 38, 44, 51 nd 64mm for cotton type spinning and a blend of 76, 88 and 102 mm - average cut length of 88m for worsted spinning. The most common cut length is 38 mm. For OE spinning, 32 mm fibre is preferred as it enables smaller dia rotor (of 33mm) to be used which can be run at 80000 to 100000 rpm. Polyester fibers are available in 4 tenacity levels. y Low pill fibres- usually in 2.0 / 3.0 D for suiting end use with tenacities of 3.0 to 3.5 gpd (grams per denier). These fibres are generally used on worsted system and 1.4D for knitting y Medium Tenacity - 4.8 to 5.0 gpd y High Tenacity - 6.0 to 6.4 gpd range and y Super high tenacity - 7.0 gpd and above Both medium and high tenacity fibres are use d for appare l end use. The super high tenacity fibres are used ssentially for spinning 100% polyester sewing threads and other industrial yarns. The higher tenacities are obtained by using higher draw ratios and higher annealer temperatures upto 225 to 230 degree C and a slight additional pull of 2% or so at the last zone in annealing.

SPIN FINISH

Several types of spin finishes are available. It is only by a mill trial that the effectiveness of a spin finish can be established. A spin finish is supposed to give high fibre to fibre friction of 0.4 to 0.45, so as to control fibre movement particularly at selvedges , low fibre-metal friction of 0.2 to 0.15 to enable lower tensions and provide adequate static protection at whatever speed the textile machine are running and provide enough cohesion to control fly and lapping tendencies and lubrication to enable smoother drafting. Spin finish as used normally consists of 2 components - one that gives lubrication / cohesion and other that gives static protection. Each of these components have upto 18 different components to give desired properties plus anti fungus, antibacterial anti foaming and stabilisers. A mill with new OE spinning machines having rotors running more than 80000 rpm, then a totally different spin finish which has a significantly lower fibre - fibre and fibre - metal friction gave very good results. For staple processing and high production though latest machinery with higher rotor speeds and finer counts place greater impact on spin finish, processing capability of fibre depends on fibre to fibre friction and fibre to metal friction and high rotor speed generating heat. Rapid heat generation destroys the lubrication and finish become ineffective. The high speed opening roller speed removes the polymer film from fibre on to rotor where it is deposited in form of powder. It has also been observed that bright fibre causes more trouble in rotors spinning as compared to semidull(TiO2) fibres because of the frictional forces are four times higher than bright fibre. It has also been claimed that TiO2 affects the surface geometry , ie bright fibres have a smooth surface , whereas dull fibres have a

20

rough surface. It also important to note that spin finishes and components for shear resistance improvement are different from those needed to reduce dynamic friction. Also for high speed production a much better antistatic protection is required.

LUSTRE: y y y y y

Polyester fibres are available in Bright : 0.05 to 0.10 % TiO2 Semi dull : 0.2 to 0.3 % TiO2 Dull : 0.5 % TiO2 Extra dull : 0.7% TiO2 and

Manufacturing textiles puts extreme pressures on process stability, the quality consistency of textiles and the life span of machine components. With operating times gradually reaching the maximum numbers of hours available in a year, a high level of long-term consistency in all three factors is expected. In spinning practice, there are constant attempts to work against the gradual deterioration of these points. Process stability is influenced mainly by unsteady yarn tension. A consistent quality can only be guaranteed through the stabilization of the relevant parameters. Both criteria must assume primarily defined and temporal constant friction between textile and contacting machine element.

Study of spin finish:Spin finish was applied on Polyester Fibres with conditioning and results are compared with the material produced without Cirrasol HSL 40 Mixing Blend

100% polyester 1.2 X 32 mm

OE Count Rotor RPM

12 Ne 88000

With Finish Cirrasol HSL 40

With out Finish Yarn Breaks / 1000 Rotor Hours Yarn Cuts / 1000 Rotor Hours

114

40

698

181

Uster -50% +50% +280% Total IPI Powder Deposition

8.68 2 12 5 19.0 Very high

8.48 0 2.2 1.8 4.0 Very low

Mixing Blend Polyester cotton

65% polyester 1.2 X 32 mm, 35% Cotton

OE Count

10 Ne

Rotor RPM

73000

Yarn Breaks / 1000 Rotor Hours

156

With Finish Cirrasol HSL 40 12

Yarn Cuts / 1000 Rotor Hours

205

13

Uster -50%

10.69 0.4

9.99 0

+50%

30.2

10.5

+280% Total IPI

9.8 40.4

5 11

Powder Deposition

Very high

Very low

With out Finish

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March 2016


COVER STORY and spin box region is very evident which leads to high breakage rate and inconsistent quality cuts. Application of external finish of antistatic fails to support which converts into powder deposition. This leads to higher imperfection in yarn and lower production of machine. Croda supported to produce a finish based on Silicon Ethoxyates which is typically a lubricant and reduces interfibre frictional forces and helps in reducing the impact of friction due to metal processing the fibre.

Condition of Rotor Spin Box 1. Before Spin Finish

Powder deposition in rotor

Debris collected from rotor

Spin box with powder deposition

After Spin Finish

no deposition observed in Rotor as well as Spin box even after 48 hrs of process

Result and discussion:-

The total study was conducted with Polyester fibres supplied by Reliance industries, the results reflected the high temperature environmental condition (32oC , 58% RH) prevailing in the rotor spinning department at the summer time in Indian Condition, As presumed the surface structure of semi dull polyester fibre is rough in nature which is a regular fibre to spin yarns at Rotor Spinning. The fibre blended with cotton provides high strength, and long life to yarn for high speed weaving and crease free finish to fabric. Polyester fibre is used at 65% to 40% in blend with cotton to cater to various fabric structures. During the summer season in India the atmospheric temperature rises to 45oC which increases the temperature of processing at Rotor. This results in ineffectiveness of fibre finish to the fibre for consistent processing. The specific deposit of powder in rotor

This treatment of spin finish provided by Croda for treating polyester fibre takes some time to adhere to the fibre which finally helps in spinning the yarn at Rotor Spinning stage. The trials conducted with immediate application of spin finish were not able to generate the desired results in the yarn. There was clear reduction of deposition of powder at rotor and Spin Box region even after 48 hours of working as displayed in pictures. This reduction eventually increased the productivity and efficiency of machine significantly. The results indicate that there is significant impact of spin finish on yarn breaks per 1000 rotor hours, Yarn cuts per 1000 rotor hours and also the IPI levels of yarn was been reduced significantly. References :

y

Grosbberg P & Mansour S A, J Text Inst, 66(1975)

y

Barella A,Vigo J P, Tura J M & Esperon H O, J Text Inst, 67(1976)

y

Balasubramanian N & Manohar J S, Proceedings, seminar on Open End Spinning (The Bombay Textile Research Association,Bombay)1982

y

Pillay K P R, Proceedings, Joint seminar on Open end spinning system of LMW & SITRA,1986,

y

Manohar J S, Rakshit A K & Balasubramanian N, Text Res J.(1983)

y

S M Ishtiaque, Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 224-230,1992

y

“Short Staple Spinning” (Derichs, Josef, et al., Polyester: Tomorrow’s Ideas & Profits, Brunnschweiler, Ed. (1993)).

y

Deussen H.; Rotor Spinning Technology, 21. Schlafhorst Inc. Charlotte, North Carolina, USA 1993 pp. pp. 56-64, 77.

y

Nikolic M., Bukosek V.; Textile Research 17. Journal, 65 1995 (11), p. 652.

y

Kong L.X., , Platfoot R.A.; Textile Rese18. arch Journal, 66 1996 (1), p. 30.

DIAPER RECYCLING TECHNOLOGY WINS THE OUTLOOK™ ASIA AWARD 7th March, 2016 – Brussels, Belgium – Diaper Recycling Technology, a Singaporebased company focused on advanced diaper recycling solutions has won the 2016 OUTLOOK™ Asia Award, for their system which aims to address the average 2% of reject or scrap rates from the manufacturing process, while offering a recycling process with high purity and separation of the raw materials stream. As one of three companies shortlisted, and invited to present during the conference, the company was selected by delegates as best meeting the brief of providing a product or service that best matched the needs of the Asia Pacific market, including

March 2016

India.In receiving the Award, Martin Scaife, Managing Director of the company said “We are most honoured to win the 2016 OUTLOOK™ Asia award and see this as confirmation of our team’s innovative and technical excellence and the positive confirmation that hygiene industry is quickly moving towards reducing waste and making the operations more efficient. Our team wishes to thank EDANA for their ongoing support to the Asian Pacific region and delivering the extension of their OUTLOOK conferences series in South East Asia.” Runners up included Hemas Manufacturing, a SriLankan-based company who develop and manufacture feminine hygiene

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products. Their product, the ‘Fems Sanitary Napkin’, aims to meet the needs of women in Asia, with particular reference to the needs of modern women in an urban, and often tropical environment. Also a shortlisted contender was Eastman Chemical, a global specialty chemical company, with their newly developed Aerafin™ polymer, which enables manufacturers to formulate extremely stable, low odor construction adhesives for the hygiene industry. EDANA thanked all companies that sent submissions to the Award

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HR FOCUS

Recruitment Trends in Spinning Industry Re‐ cruitment Trends in Spinning Industry Shri Saurabh Agarwal Voice: 91-22-22829696 / 22829797 Mobile: +919892337579 email: saurabh@netitb.in Web: www.thetalentmart.com Introduction Indian Textile Industry contributes about 11 percent to industrial production, 14 per cent to the manufacturing sector, 4 percent to the GDP and 12 per cent to the country’s total export earnings. It provides direct employment to over 35 million people, the second largest provider of employment after agriculture. Besides, another 54.85 million people are engaged in its allied activities.Knowing the above fact still recruitment in Textile Industry is really challenging as the textile industry is made up different functions right from procurement of raw material to manufacturing of finished goods. Now let us focus on textile spinning industry which one of the most complicated and highly technical function of the textile industry. As there are various different kind of spinning available. Few of them are: 1. Break Spinning 2. Rotor Spinning 3. Friction Spinning 4. Air-jet Spinning 5. Centrifugal Spinning 6. Dispersion Spinning 7. Draw-Spinning 8. Dry Spinning (man-made fiber production) 9. Flash Spinning 10. Flyer Spinning 11. Melt Spinning (man-made fiber production) 12. Reaction Spinning (man-made-fiber production) 13. Ring Spinning 14. Wet Spinning (man-made-fiber production) Reference: http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/07/differenttypes-of-yarn-spinning-system.html Every type of spinning is used for specific type of manufacture of textile finished good which may be used by the business people or directly used by the consumer. There are no person who can be expertise in all types of spinning as each spinning is technically different from each other. There are many textile mills in India but each mills have different needs as per their expertise and what their focus product what market they want to carter to. It Why India has Advantage The Indian economy has primarily been an agriculture-driven economy. The vast stretches of land, resources and climatic conditions aid the production of varied raw materials for different industrial purposes. Historically, India has been known for its high-quality cotton, jute and other natural fibre. Over the years, however, the domestic industry has progressed and diversified into many types of fibre and yarn, both natural and man-made. The textile industry in India includes almost all types of textile fibres – natural fibres such as cotton, jute, silk and wool; synthetic / man-made fibres such as polyester, viscose, nylon, acrylic and polypropylene (PP) and multiple blends of such fibres and filament yarns such as partiallyoriented yarn (POY). The type of yarn used is dictated by the end product that is manufactured.

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Recruitment Challenges As there are many type spinning method are available hence as mentioned earlier that it is impossible for a person to be an expertise in all kind of spinning methods. Hence availability getting right professional for spinning mill is very scarce. The most commonly used are Airjet , Ring frame and Jacquard looms. Hence mostly in recruitment Industry we easy to find experts for technology which commonly used but it becomes challenge for other types of spinning mills which use different technology spinning for manufactures of different textile products such as machine woven carpets. Right Spinning Professional To identify right spinning professional one must look at various aspects such as what technical qualification the person possess. It is also necessary to check which technical experience the person has. If the person is fresher then training is required to develop the skills of the person which takes around minimum of 5 years be an expert of particular spinning technology. If a professional is having around 10 year of experience then it is most likely he may be expert in two technology of spinning. More than 3 technology of spinning expert it is very rare to find one professional. Most common question are asked while selecting an right spinning experts y y y y y y y y y y y

How do you control raw material waste in the department How do you meet the target efficiency of the machine and production What loom efficiency you achieved as per your past experience How do you control the loss production What is path definition What do know about weave structure, and how it is been selected. What is the function of a jacquard and how it works What are the type of jacquard you know How to calculate production from loom reading How you can run a loom efficiently What is weaver efficiency

Conclusion Identifying a right spinning professional is highly technical and hence it necessary for any person from recruitment industry or an HR professional needs to understand the requirement very well and should be aware of basic technical terms used in Spinning industry. As the recruiter has to be very careful while selecting the right professional for right type of spinning Industry. A recruiter may or may not able to evaluate the professional technical skills. Hence and outside consultant who is an expert is always required for evaluation spinning professionals.

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March 2016


FABRIC FOCUS

Fabric Innovations: A Category Evolution Per� spective Shri Vishnu Govind Independent Brand Consultant Business Director - Thinkkloud We say that clothing is a basic need just like food and shelter; it is a habit that is characteristic of human societies all over the world. While it is difficult to point a finger at a specific period in human history when this habit started taking shape, it is clear that early man had used animal skin and vegetation to protect himself from the elements of nature. This would have evolved into the use of clothing as a means to distinguish one section of people from the other, within societies, thereby making it representative of social standing. This is pretty much the case today also, when we look at how fashion business has progressed over the last century in different societies, from something that is more functional to one that reflects a certain lifestyle. The more things change, the more they remain the same. Or do they, really? The fashion business today is a big game and fabric weaving is an integral part of it. When it comes to clothing, there are two main parameters that need to find a balance with each other- comfort and style. A lot of product development innovations are focused on getting this sweet spot of interplay between the two. When we talk of product development for fashion brands, the focus is fundamentally about two aspects- the fabrics, and the cuts- it is a right mix of the two that gives the desired user experience, and that is exactly what brands try to achieve. The more a product category evolves, the more we find the clutter of product variants in that space. If we take a look at popular FMCG categories, like Washing Powder, or Chocolates, or Toothpastes, or Shampoos, and see prominent products in their respective categories in the 80s or 90s and compare them with what they are now- the point becomes clearer. As consumers get more evolved, their tastes and requirements get more refined, leading to the creation of a genuine need in the market for product variants with specific functional benefits acting as differentiators, like a Sugar Free Chewing Gum, or a Health Drink with added Calcium, or a portfolio of a beauty soap, a health soap and a freshness soap from the same company. The business of branded apparels is no different, it cannot be different! There are market forces that come into play which create this scenario. The level of chemistry and engineering involved in fabric development could be a lot more that what meets the eye for a person who is not familiar with these aspects. Take for instance the good old cotton shirt- seems uncomplicated right? Is there any rocket science involved in making one? Ever wondered why different cotton shirts come in different price points even if they are from the same brand, often showing huge variations in MRPs? Of course, there is the aspect of patterns, designs and the perceived value that comes from these attributes. Still, there is a lot more to it than just that. Noticed labels on the shirts you buy that talk about the kind of cotton fabric it is made of, like 2/80s Giza Cotton, or other similar sounding words? Cotton fabrics are generally identified using a combination of thread count and the ply. Thread count is expressed as a number, like 50s, 60s, 80s, 120s etc. and indicate the size of the yarns in terms of the number of threads per square

March 2016

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inches of the fabric. The higher the count, the finer the fabric giving you a softer, luxurious hand feel; of course at a higher price! Ply, on the other hand, indicates the number of yarns that are twisted together to make a single thread. Normally fabrics range from single ply to three-ply and even higher than that in very rare cases. If the ply is higher, you get a tighter weave, and a heavier fabric. Talking of cotton, and other natural fabrics, their origin is seen as an indicator of how priced they are. Sea Island Cotton, Egyptian Cotton and American Pima Cotton are among the most premium of cottons in the world. Cotton fabrics have always been an integral part of our wardrobes- they are comfortable, durable, breathable and stable. Another natural fabric that has become an important part of our wardrobes, especially for winter wear and formal clothing, is wool. While there are lots of stereotypes around wool that makes you feel it is an ideal winter product, there can be product variants in wool that can be created to make it more suitable as a fabric for consumption round the year with a wider scope of usage occasions. In suiting fabrics, wool has clearly defined standards in quality and sophistication. However, it is expensive and has inherent properties that make it more suited for a certain kind of look. The real potential of wool as a suiting fabric can be exploited when it is blended with synthetic fibers like polyester. This adds versatility to wool and enables the development of fabrics with varied customer benefits. Such fabrics, generally called poly wool, form a large portion of the suiting market, in fact significantly more than pure wool suiting fabrics. This is because of the attractive price points as well as unique product features that are attained by blending wool with different proportions of synthetic fibers. Some of these features include stretchability, anti-bacterial effects, heat control and similar such attributes. The discussion on suiting is done merely to highlight, using one product type, how synthetic blends can impact the dynamics of business in a category of clothing. The past few years have seen the arrival of quite a few synthetic fibers that have led to the development of unique functional benefits. Polyester is a fiber that is used in al kinds of clothing, by itself or by blending with natural fibers like cotton or wool. Nylon is another synthetic fiber used in variety of clothing. Spandex is a fiber that provides comfort stretch and helps making tight fitting clothes with easy movement. Lurex is a fiber that can be used to give metallic embellishments to garments, giving a shimmering look. The list of such fabrics is huge and the idea of sharing this is just to illustrate a few names as examples of game-changing synthetic fabrics. New product development in the consumer goods space tends to reflect the dominant and emergent lifestyle trends of the time. If we take a look at fabrics, this will be no different. In India as well as in the major markets of the world, one mega trend we see is in the direction of health and wellness. People are increasingly getting aware of the impact of their lifestyles on their health, the calorific

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FABRIC FOCUS value of the food they take in, and the need to stay fit through an active lifestyle. Hence the heightened activity in the area of sports and workout friendly clothing comes as no surprise at all. Seamless clothing is one such example. They go well with tight fitting clothes that are ideal for a work out, yoga or a jog in the park; they do not have seams that weigh you down,enabling easy movement. Perspiration management is an area where a lot of new-age synthetic fibers are getting developed. While it definitely goes well with the needs of an active generation, it certainly goes beyond just that. Sweating is something everybody goes through, in different degrees, and is often a matter of great discomfort, and yes, embarrassment too. Traditionally, natural fibers have always been better than earlier synthetic developments because of the fact that they are breathable fabrics. Linen is a light fabric that makes you feel cooler while lighter variations of wool can keep heat away from the body. Cotton is a fabric that absorbs moisture and therefore, to a certain extent, it is good at sweat management. For these reasons, these natural fabrics do better than lot of synthetic fabrics in antiperspirant properties. Where they all fall short, however, is in the fact that they retain the moisture that does not evaporate from the skin. That is precisely where new-age fabrics with water wicking features come in. They draw moisture just like a candle draws wax

up the wick all the way to the flame. These fabrics are designed to wick away moisture from the human body to the exterior of the garment. This enables easy evaporation of the moisture. Many of these wicking fabrics are made from blends of polyester. The construction of these fabrics is different from that of regular polyester fabrics. They are designed in such a way that moisture is forced into and moves through the gaps in the weave to the outer shell of the garment; in many cases the fabrics are chemically treated to ensure that moisture does not soak into it. To mention another development in this space, there are fabrics with compression technology that compresses the muscles while you work out, which enables better blood circulation. Work out fabrics with anti-bacterial properties are also gaining in popularity. Development of newer products in any business is an evolutionary process and there is a right time for every idea to truly emerge. The critical success factor here lies in the synergy of these initiatives with the macro consumer trends we see around which may have their ramifications on the product category in question. There has to be a latent or an obvious need that is being fulfilled through these new products. Successful companies are those with an innovation pipeline with the right mix of ideas that can be scaled up, are differentiated, and are consumer-centric.

Kornit Digital introduces Storm Hexa and Storm 1000 direct-to-garment printing systems at Fespa Amsterdam Kornit’s most popular product family for mid-size businesses receives major upgrade, features recirculating print heads, flexible ink configurations and significantly reduced ink consumption March 9, 2016 –Kornit Digital, (NASDAQ: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printingtechnology, has launched two new direct-to-garment printing systems at Fespa Amsterdam. The new systems are members of Kornit’s best-selling platform of Storm systems, which – in more than ten years – have earned a reputation as solid, robust and reliable industrial systems with high effective throughput. The new Kornit Storm Hexa and Kornit Storm 1000 have been equipped with stateof-the-art inkjet technology to turn them into the most advanced industrial direct-togarment printing systems for medium-size businesses. Their features include a recirculating ink system to reduce ink consumption and to further optimize reliability, as well as a doubled number of nozzles to increase productivity of up to 40% over previous Storm configurations. The Storm 1000 is the standard configuration of the new product family and features 12 print heads in a CMYK and White

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configuration. It produces up to 170 garments per hour in high productivity mode, including inline pretreatment. It covers a print area of up to 50 x 70 cm / 20 x 28 in. The new Storm Hexa is equipped with 16 print heads and two additional colors for full CMYK, Red, Green and White support. It is the system of choice for color conscious applications such as the production of promotional and brand related garments. It also can produce up to 170 garments per hour in high productivity mode. Both systems are based on Kornit’s unique NeoPigmentTM printing process. They are equipped with advanced productivity features such as a built-in pretreatment system, a quick replace pallet mechanism, a 4 liter bulk ink system, an integrated

NEWS

humidity system and a backup power system for a quick and easy system start. All Kornit printing systems are compatible with a variety of fabrics (cotton, polyester, blends, denim, silk wool and more) and are geared towards industrial mass-customization applications. Guy Zimmerman, Kornit’s Vice President of Marketing Business Development, comments: “The Storm series of direct-togarment systems have been Kornit’s signature product for more than a decade. The Storm II is the best-selling industrial directto-garment printing system in the market. Launching a new and improved generation of it is an important milestone for us and a great opportunity to further improve the efficiency and performance of our industrial systems. The new Storm configurations show drastically improved throughput and further reductions in ink consumption, as well as excellent print quality. They are perfect production tools for a broad range of applications.”

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March 2016


BRAND FOCUS

Brand Equity : Power of Brands Shri Rushin H.Vadhani AGM – Market Research & Product Development AYM Syntex Limited (Formely Welspun Syntex Ltd) There’s a big question to introspect by all businesses whether consumer buys products or brands? Customer buys products to fulfill need/wants whereas it buys brand to fulfill trust ! Consumer buys products which it feels it can trust to fulfill its requirement. Analyse your next purchase & you will experience power of brand ! A brand’s power derived from the goodwill and name recognition that it has earned over time, which translates into higher sales volume and higher profit margins against competing brands. Some marketing researchers have concluded that brands are one of the most valuable assets a company has, as brand equity is one of the factors which can increase the financial value of a brand to the brand owner, although not the only one. Elements that can be included in the valuation of brand equity include (but not limited to): changing market share, profit margins, consumer recognition of logos and other visual elements, brand language associations made by consumers, consumers’ perceptions of quality and other relevant brand values. Consumers’ knowledge about a brand also governs how manufacturers and advertisers market the brand. Brand equity is created through strategic investments in communication channels and market education thus creating awareness amongst consumers and appreciates through economic growth in profit margins, market share, prestige value, and critical associations. Generally, these strategic investments appreciate over time to deliver a return on investment. This is directly related to marketing ROI. Brand equity is strategically crucial, but famously difficult to quantify. Many experts have developed tools to analyze this asset, but there is no agreed way to measure it. As one of the serious challenges that marketing professionals and academics find with the concept of brand equity, the disconnect between quantitative and qualitative equity values is difficult to reconcile. Quantitative brand equity includes numerical values such as profit margins and market share, but fails to capture qualitative elements such as prestige and associations of interest. Overall, most marketing practitioners take a more qualitative approach to brand equity because of this challenge. In a survey of nearly 200 senior marketing managers, only 26 percent responded that they found the “brand equity” metric very useful. Lets understand the above narration with help of corporate examples of Textile brnads like Reliance , Arvind,Raymonds,Welspu

March 2016

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n,Century,Tatas,Birla’s,Bombay Dyeing,Dupont & many more. The products manufactured by these conglomerates are class apart. They have strategically developed products which are par excellences & has been top of the consumer’s mind to fulfill its need / wants. Product attributes like quality,pricing,availability,packaging ,innovation,diffrentation communication, customer relationship ,consumer grievance & feedback has been just perfect thus creating TRUST ! Brands have won hearts of consumers & promise to deliver each time every time to have similar or better experience by repetitive usage of its products. Brand Asset Valuator (Young & Rubicam) Young & Rubicam, a marketing communications agency, has developed the BrandAsset Valuator, BAV, a tool to diagnose the power and value of a brand. In using it, the agency surveys consumers’ perspectives along four dimensions: y y y y

Differentiation: The defining characteristics of the brand and its distinctiveness relative to competitors. Relevance: The appropriateness and connection of the brand to a given consumer. Esteem: Consumers’ respect for and attraction to the brand. Knowledge: Consumers’ awareness of the brand and understanding of what it represents.

Trust allows a brand to gain power over customers which ultimately translates into superior financial performance. By building trust marketers can easily knock off rivals from customer consideration From the customer perspective brands are important. There is pervasive trust deficit in almost all walks of life. The institutions are not able to keep up with the emergent changes. Take the political upheavals in Egypt and Libya, the financial crises enveloping the global economy, September 11, Mumbai attacks and terrorism, scams and corruption in political system and relations with neighbouring countries etc. How is one to live in this environment of suspicion, doubt and distrust? This impacts both physical and psychological well being. It causes tremendous strain and fear. A sense of loss of control pervades one’s existence. Set against this background, at least in consumption situations, brands symbolize consistency and certainty. Brands are tension reducing mechanisms. Amidst uncertainty brands are assuring and comforting. Imagine existence in a world without brands. The luxury to short cut buying would not exist. You would not have reached out for your tried and tested brands. Brands simplify life by providing opportunities to develop short cuts. The mental eloquence so saved is used to resolve other conflicts. Key Reference : www.businessdictionary.com/definition/brand-equity. www.wikipedia.en www.blog.hubspot.com Managing brand equity – David Aaker Principles of branding – David Aaker

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TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Disposable Textiles – Future of Indian Tex‐ tile Industry Shri Avinash Mayekar

MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd. Introduction:

Disposable textiles are generally used in or as apparel for functional applications, produced in such a way they can be disposed off after use. They are generally used for “use & throw” applications. Textiles can roughly be classified based on technology used into two types namely woven & non-woven. Of these nonwovens fit most to manufacture disposable textiles as they can be produced by using compact production lines which give much higher productivity at much lower operating cost. They can be tailor-made functionally and economically for the end user. Disposables are used to replace apparels as well as for technical applications. To list a few: Absorbent hygiene, Wipes & surgical gowns etc. Disposables are gaining popularity due to their hygiene related properties, ease of use & cost effectiveness. They have wide range of applications in the sectors like healthcare & hospitality. The use of household disposables is also growing with rapid pace.There are numerous other disposable applications, such as shopping bags, tablecloths, towels, airline head rests, pillow cases, sorbents, sponges, etc., which are made and marketed in domestic markets.

of nonwovens per-capita is extremely low in India at $0.04/capita compared to $2.73/capita in North America. The market is growing rapidly for end uses in feminine care, medical, automotive and packaging applications. The hygiene market in India has a great potential because of the low penetration and the sheer size of the market. The entry strategies with feminine hygiene products followed by baby diapers, and eventually adult incontinence, will make it possible for women, children and adults to benefit from new, hygienic and easy-to-use products. The need for single-use surgical products (gowns and drapes) is imminent in Indian hospitals.

Growth Drivers:

• Favorable Demographics

Current Indian Scenario Indian market is under transition phase. Indian customer is showing paradigm shift from durables to the disposables. The average age of Indian population is 25 years.Significantly over 50% of the population is below 25 years – the vibrant segment for any market. This population is receptive to new technology & new products. They are faster in adopting global trends. The potential for nonwoven disposable usage in India is always increasing. The world giants in consumer products have all modified their strategies to suit Indian conditions prior to achieving any success. India is the second fastest growing economy after China. According to a survey by Goldman Sachs, India will become the largest economy by 2035. If we use PPP (purchasing power parity) which takes into account local purchasing power, India already has the 3rd largest economy. According to a new report by Goldman Sachs, India will grow at 8% until 2020. With the younger workforce and growing per-capita income, the middle and upper classes will grow significantly, and spending will increase. Although the use

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The major young population is the key growth driver in the growth of Disposable Textiles market. Young population is receptive to westernization. They are always adapting most of thetrends of western markets. For example, today, we see many of ladies confidently using kitchen wipes which seem to be a rare scene about 20 years back. • Increasing Purchasing Power Purchasing Power of Indian population is rising. In fact, in most of the household, the husband & wife, both are working, so they have more disposable income which makes them spend more. They are susceptible to buy new products. • Woman Population With the changing time, number of working women has increased & this has given them more freedom to spend. With busy life schedule, they are left with less time for household work. “Use & throw” products offer them convenience. Use of sanitary napkins is not limited to the urban market; it has started reaching to rural markets. TV Media has a great role to play in the promotion of hygiene products. Disposable products give them ease of use &these products are less time consuming. India will be the biggest market for feminine hygiene products like sanitary napkins in coming future. A typical potential estimate for feminine hygiene, based on per capita consumption of 50 units per annum by the eligible population of nearly 300 million users (Age group 15 to 40) will give a theoretical total market size of approximately 15 billion pieces. This could result in market sale value of $1.5 billion at 10 cents per piece. • Growing Healthcare Industry: Indian healthcare industry is growing exponentially. The de-

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March 2016


TECHNICAL TEXTILES mand for products like surgical gowns, masks and other wearable products to surgical drapes, pads, dressings and filtration materials is huge. Specialty textiles are manufactured for healthcare purpose like isolation gowns, disposable trousers, howie coats, liquid resistant laboratory coats, latex anti-allergic gloves, sleeve protector, shoe cover, disposable bed sheets, etc. These textiles are durable, lightweight and inexpensive. Medical tourism is growing in India, so there with high demand for such products in coming future. • High Birth Rate: India has more than 50% population below 25 years. Median age of Indian is 25 years & birth rate in India is 20.66/1000 Population. Some 24 million babies are born in India every year. If we typically calculate that 25% of these infants in the period between birth and 24 months use at least 28 diapers a week, the theoretically available market for diapers is 8.7 billion pieces per year. This is a big number for any industry. With rising income levels, the consumption levels of this order are achievable in the near future, if the prices are kept right. So, demand for baby diapers will grow exponentially in coming future.

• Growing Retail Industry:

Most of Tier-1 cities accustomed to “Mall Culture” & now it is catching up Tier-2 & Tier-3 cities as well. Retail culture has major share in growth of the many of the disposable products such as kitchen wipes, adult & baby diapers & sanitary napkins. Challenges The major challenge in growth of disposable textiles is the tendency and attitude of the large population of Indians. The currently low penetration of nonwoven disposable products provides an untapped market for new entrants to India. However, Indian customers are value-driven; hence theproduct with a true value will only be successful. A considerable quantity of bleached cotton wool

and woven bandages is still used in the medical market. The market penetration of feminine hygiene is only 15% and sales are mainly in the urban areas. When the price barrier is broken, this market will explode in a big way. Cotton wool and woven gauzes are still popular in the country as nonwoven disposable material is not made locally and imports can be expensive. The health care industry is still using reusable caps, gowns and drapes. A significant portion of this market will remain with woven reusable material until necessary legislation for hygiene standards are introduced by the health authority in the government. Other Area of concern for disposables is how disposable products affect landfills. As is the case in many Western countries, landfills is simply not the solution, but municipal waste can be used for energy provision and therefore benefit the country and the environment. To summarize the issues why the disposables not much used much in India are: • Low Hygiene awareness • Pricing policies of nonwovens • Pollution • Availability of cheap washing facilities favoring reusable cotton apparels • No standards for medical disposables; Quality is poor

Conclusion

To build momentum, change must happen much faster and with a greater degree of business expertise and planning. No doubt, the country has the tools to build a highly industrial nation, but implementation of the state of the art technology locally is where we need to focus on. With proper planning, vision in mind and engaging appropriate consultancy firms one can successfully implement projects for disposable nonwovens. Be a part of a new India…

RESOLUTION PASSED AT THE CONDOLENCE MEETING Late SHRI SURESH B. RAO

TO MOURN THE DEMISE OF SHRI SURESH B. RAO The Members of the Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (ITAMMA) deeply mourns the sad and sudden demise of Shri Suresh B. Rao on 28th February, 2016 at Mumbai. The textile engineering industry in general and ITAMMA in particular have suffered a grievous loss on his passing away and recalls with high appreciation his abiding contributions. Born on 24th December, 1936, Shri Suresh B. Rao was nicknamed ‘Babu’ having been born at Babulnath temple road, South Mumbai. He passed his S.S.C at an early age of only 13 years due to a double promotion in school and graduated at 18 years in Bachelors of Science in Chemistry from Siddharth College, Mumbai. He then studied L.L.B at Government Law College Mumbai. He completed Management studies from prestigious Bajaj Institute – in the very first batch conducted by the institution. His first love was playing Cricket. A specialized left arm spinner, he played the first level of the game at Kanga League matches. He acquired membership and played actively at Karnataka Sports Association, Hindu Gymkhana and Mumbai Cricket Association & Wankhede club Mumbai soon after. He keenly followed the game and watched the India –Pakistan T20 Asia cup match a day before passing away.

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He was the Sole Proprietor of M/s. Universal Marketing Corporation, Mumbai, which completed 50 glorious and successful years in 2015.

His late wife Smt. Shubha Suresh Rao was a strong pillar of support through his personal and professional endeavors.

Shri Suresh B. Rao was elected as the 51st & 52nd President of ITAMMA in the year 1993-94 & 1994-95 and also had been on the Board of Trustees since last 2 decades. Till the very last day of his passing away, he pro-actively addressed ITAMMA through correspondence in spite of his failing health through sheer will power and dedication. During his Presidentship of ITAMMA and Vice-Chairmanship of IndiaITME Society, he took keen interest in the Activities of the Association. He was amenable and courteous in handling various issues concerning the activities of the Association. The demise of Shri Suresh B. Rao created a void which is difficult to fill. He will be very much missed by the members of ITAMMA, India-ITME Society and all his colleagues who had benefitted by his counsel.

ITAMMA members share their sorrow and invoke Divine Grace to give strength to his daughters, Ms. Sadhana Dhargalkar, Ms. Archana Rao and his son-in-law Shri Praful Dhargalkar, the members of his family & other relatives to bear the loss with courage and equanimity.

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE

Linking Indication to Development through GI A Case of Banaras Brocades & Saree

Abstract: The Banaras Brocades & Saree is famous for its intricate designs & beautiful weaves. This unique hand-woven textile has been experiencing the problem of infringement in present globalised market scenario. The counterfeit textiles produced by power looms and mills are marketed as original for harvesting premium price associated with it leading a loss to consumers and original weavers. The TRIPs agreement under the WTO and subsequent GI Act of India has helped weavers to protect this famous product in 2010. The article has tried to analyse the benefits, the product is expected to receive through containment of infringement and adopting post GI initiatives for these SMEs. It may also help in countries resolve to strengthen “Make in India” by linking these product to world market. 1.1 Introduction Banaras, the heritage city and religious capital of India is equally famous for one of the beautiful handwoven textiles of the world called Banaras Brocades & Saree. This unique textile is known for its intricate designs and beautiful motifs from time immemorial. The motifs bring liveliness in the product and the pattern & designs talks about socio-cultural ethos and religious affinity to the world in form of weaves. The weavers put forth their imagination in form of weaves in silk brocades, saris, ladies dress materials & made ups, which has been attracting the attention of both domestic and international consumers. The product also bears generational legacy as the technique of production passed on from generation to generation in the artisans’ family, which help in preserving this craft for thousands years. The centre is not only providing livelihood to thousands of artisans associated in the process of production but also supporting equal number of support service providers like traders, raw material suppliers, dyers, designers, loom makers, etc helping in eastern part of Uttar Pradesh. 2.1 Historical evolution It is believed that Banaras hand-woven textile traced back to Vedic era, as India flourished as a major textile-producing centre during Rig-Vedic period. Even the Hindu deities gold-coated clothes of different times appears to be prepared by zari and silk yarns is interpreted by historians as the earliest equivalent of the present day zari work or brocades of Banaras. The Jataka tales and other early Pali texts have mentioned about weavers (tantuvidyas) and their techniques of weaving of textiles. In most of the historical writings, Banaras has prominently found a place as an outstanding textile manufacturing centre.The pali literature has also mentioned about the city as a reputed centre of textile manufacture, famous for its Kasikuttama and Kasiya. The Majjhimanikaya known as a textile fabric with fine texture and the Kasika Suchivastra was probably some kind of embroidery prepared by the then artisans (Pali text) in this oldest city. The patronage extended by emperor Akbar during Mugal era, made outstanding contribution to the versatility this craft and

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Mr.T K Rout routtk@gmail.com Deputy Director (Market Research) Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India,Mumbai tried to integrate persian designs & patterns to their weave. It gave rise to a new form of brocades bringing close integration of hindu and Islamic cultural ethos in their weaves. The depiction of cultural ethos of two major religions in the artistic work may be one of the important contributions of the weavers in form of religious tolerance and complementarily of two art forms during that period. The presence of Persian masters like Ghias Naqshaband and others in the royal atelier of emperor Akbar may be one of the important factors for the influx of Persian motifs in this product. It is significant to note that in the sixteenth century, the old designs abruptly came to an end and contemporary paintings with personalized motifs were introduced keeping the preference of ruling classes in mind. During this period, more emphasis was given to floral designs than animals. At present, the influence of Buddhist culture in the weave is also equally visible. During post Mogul period, the industry also flourished uninterruptedly in lieu of popular preference of domestic consumers. The first census of India has elaborately mentioned that “the Zari and brocade weavers seem to have considerable in numbers as the number of their houses was about 580 at that time (1st Indian census). At present, the production area has increased from Varanasi to adjacent districts like Azamgarh, Mirzapur, Bhadohi (Sant Ravidas Nagar), Chandoli. Being one of the oldest handwoven textile centres of the country, it provides livelihood to more than 1.70 lakh weavers, who put forth their imagination in form of weaves by employing about 86 thousand looms. It is pertinent to mention that majority of the weavers are covered under co-operative fold even if some weavers are pursuing activities on individual capacity. There are about 635 weaver co-operative societies in the cluster, of which 473 are active. Out of total workforce engaged in the production process, male constitutes about 84% (1,44,000) and female about 16% (27,430) of artisan workforce. Further, equal numbers of people are also associated with the supply and marketing chain activities. Hence, it plays a major role in creating livelihood opportunities in the eastern part of Uttar Pradesh and in socio-economic upliftment of producers. 2.2 Production and Market Share Banarasi saree is a household name in the country particularly in the north & east India and closely associated with marriage and other socio-cultural activities. Every Indian parents dreams to offer a true Banarasi Saree during the marriage of their daughter. The sarees make up of silk warp and weft, on plain/satin ground base brocaded with extra weft patterns in different layouts introducing Buties, Bells, Creepers, Buttas in ground, border and anchal

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE are famous for its glamorous look & quality. The human skill associated with production process giving rise to intricacy and wonderful pattern is one of unique characteristics of the product. A weaver takes 8 to 15 days to weave a saree, which is mostly concentrated in household based SMEs. Hence, the unit size is very small and unorganised. The silk brocades produced in the centre are also equally famous. With the change in preference patterns, the weavers have also adopted product diversification by introducing products like home furnishing, silk dhotis, stole, scarf, muffler, mats, dress material, wall hanging, made ups like curtain, cushion cover, table cover, napkins, runners, etc. to cater overseas and domestic markets. The turnover of the centre is about Rs. 7200 crores. The loom use pattern of the cluster indicates that more than 67 % of the looms are used for the production of sarees and another 28 % for brocade weaving leaving little room (5%) for the diversified products. Even if, the share of diversified products is less, still it is a healthy trend and may help in successfully mitigating the challenges of globalisation to hand-woven textiles. 3.1 Key Constraints & Infringed Banaras Brocades & Saree The globalisation under the framework of WTO has brought about plethora of changes in the trend & structure of international trade. With the phasing out of quota in textiles trade and substantial reduction of tariffs under the Doha Development (DDA) Round of WTO negotiation, the export of textiles has increased substantially. The major producing countries like India have increased their export of textiles to the world. India being a major producer of hand-woven textiles has also attracted the attention of the international buyers as well as new challenges arising out of globalisation. The traditional hand woven textiles like Banaras Brocades and Saree have been attracting a premium price due to unique quality and intricate design. The premium price has thrown upon an important challenge to this age old traditional products in terms of counterfeit goods. During 90s, the higher premium price attracted the manufacturers of other region to copy the Banaras design & patterns and sell it in the name of Banaras Brocades & Saree. As these infringed products are weaved through power looms & mills, the price offered is far less than original one giving rise to significant price advantage to counterfeits. Further, this dishonest business practice used the name Banaras for marketing the counterfeits causing severe injury to the original product. As a result, it threatened the livelihood of original weavers in one hand and deceive consumers on the other hand. The original product lost its niche market to infringed ones leading to reduced brand value and less premium price leading to low income for the weavers. It not only threatened the very existence of this unique product but also undermined the export potential. It is estimated that the market size of Banaras Brocades & Saree is about Rs.10113 crores, out of which about Rs.4500 crores produced in power looms in and around Varanasi. On the other hand, handlooms contribute about Rs.2700 crores during 2012-13. Tabl-1:Status of Original & Infringed products in 2012-13 Tabl-1:Status of Original & Infringed products in 2012-13

Products of Banaras Infringed % of Product Handlooms Power loom Total Products original Saree 1819.86 3033.06 4852.92 1980.15 40.80 Brocades 779.94 1299.88 2079.82 785.35 37.76 Furnishing 39.86 66.43 106.29 32.52 30.60 Diversified Products 55.09 91.82 146.91 25.25 17.19 Others 5.28 91.82 97.1 15.34 15.80 Total 2700.03 4500 7200.03 2838.61 39.42 Source: Author’s own calculations

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The remaining Rs.2838 crores constitutes counterfeits produced in other part of India and in other countries and marketed in the name of Banaras Brocades & Saree Hence, about 1/3rd of the market is captured by the products, which are produced in other region and marketed in the name of original one. This dishonest business practices practised with a view to take away the premium price associated with this world famous textiles. 2.1.1 Source of Infringed Banaras Brocade & Saree The trend and composition of the product indicates that the counterfeit goods are originating from both domestic as well as external markets. Hence, depending upon the origin and production of counterfeit Banaras Brocades & Sarees, the source of infringement could be (i) Infringed products manufactured in other part of India and sold in domestic market (ii) Infringed products manufactured within the country and exported to international market (iii) Infringed products manufactured in other countries and imported to India and (iv) Infringed products manufactured and exported/sold in market other than India. The source and marketing of counterfeit Banaras Brocades & Saree indicates that infringed products are mostly originating from other power loom production centres of the country, which are specialised in manufacturing art silks. Of late imported products from countries like China, Bangladesh, etc have also joined the race. It is pertinent to mention that the Banaras city is also flooded with low cost fabrics manufactured in other countries and sold in the name of original one. The same may be the case in export market. Hence, Banaras is experiencing infringement from all strata’s mentioned above leading to decline in the original product. 2.1.2 Effects of presence of Infringed products The hand weaving and design drawing pattern is very complex and time consuming. The cost of production is high, where as counterfeit fabrics are machine made and cost effective. Since the design and pattern of machine made low priced infringed products resembles with high priced original one, it became difficult for latter to compete in the market. Ultimately the original products are losing market and premium price to counterfeits. As a result, the wage rate has declined to about half of what they were earlier. The existing wage rate for skilled works like weaving and designs varies from Rs.150 to Rs. 200 per day after rendering more than 12 hours service per day, whereas for support services like sizing, dyeing, finishing and packing, wage rate varies from Rs.80 to Rs.160 in 2012. Due to low wage, the weavers are migrating to other occupations like Rickshaw pulling, etc. On the other hand, the moneylenders also charge exorbitant rate of interest for lending money to the poor weavers. 3.1 GI as a solution to infringement The inclusion of Geographical Indication (GI) as a newest addition to the TRIPs Agreement under WTO has created a new hope for the problem of infringement to the traditional knowledge like banaras brocades & saree. GI as a newest addition to the families of IPR “identifies a good as originating in the territory of a member or a region or locality in the territory, where a give quality, reputation or other characteristics of the goods is essentially attributable to its geographical origin (article 22.1 of TRIPs)”. It means, some geographical regions acquire reputation for origin of product with specific quality and uniqueness that distinguishes the product from other similar products.. When GI acquires such reputation, there may be attempts by others to utilise it for their own advantage. Such action by others harms both original producers and consumers of the products. The original producer looses a part of the market and the consumer gets counterfeit goods without original qual-

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE ity and uniqueness. Hence, it is harmful to both original producers and consumers. The agreement stipulated absolute protection (art-23) for wine & spirit and general level protection (art-22) for other products. The additional protection provided to wines and spirits imposes an obligation on member countries to legislate for the protection of wines and spirits even if there is no risk of misleading or unfair competition. The discriminatory approach accepted in the TRIPs council may be the resultant of continuous effort by EU countries to protect unique blended wines and spirits originating from their countries. However, members have agreed for establishment of a multilateral system of notification and legislation of GIs (article 23.4) for further negotiation.. Further, the agreement stipulates that unless a GI is protected in the country of its origin, there is no obligation by the members to extend reciprocal protection (Art- 22) leading to implementation of national laws by member countries for protection of their products. 3.2 Geographical Indications (GI) Act’1999 of India Prior to TRIPs agreement, the products with uniqueness and originating from a particular geographical region are protected through some existing laws India i.e. (i) under consumer protection Act, (ii) through passing off actions in courts, and, (iii) through certification marks. Such legal provisions are not sufficient to protect GI designated products of India in the changing world scenario as innumerable foreign companies and traders are free ridings on goodwill and reputation associated with such renowned geographical names of Indian product. For example, the tea producers of Kenya can use world famous appellation of “Darjeeling” on the package of their tea with an aim of free riding on the renown associated with it, and encroach upon the existing market of Darjeeling tea. Ultimately, the producer of the Darjeeling tea will be the looser. In compilation of the TRIPs agreement, India enacted the Geographical Indications (GI) Act and rule. The act is administered by the Controller General of Patents, Designs and Trademarks, who is the Registrar of Geographical Indications. It is interesting to note that though Article 23 of TRIPs provides a higher level of protection to GIs relating to wines and spirits only, the corresponding provisions in the Indian Act does not restrict themselves to wines and spirits alone rather it is left to discretion of the central government to decide goods or classes of goods need to be granted such higher level of protection. This discretion has deliberately been maintained by Indian lawmakers with an aim of ensuring the ‘absolute’ protection of Article 23 for the GIs associated with products of India’s export interest. As of August, 2015 more than 300 products have been successfully registered under the said Act. 3.3 Possible impact on GI designated Banaras Brocades & Saree In the weaving industry of Banaras, imitation is one of the major matters of concern. The product with a unique design, pattern and texture commands a high price but once the design come out from manufacturing centre, it is immediately copied by large manufacturers and power looms in the country. Further, the opening up of economy under the framework of globalisation has added new dimensions to this process of infringement as manufacturers of other countries are replicating and selling their products in the name of Banaras Brocades & Saree both in domestic and international market. As soon as the design is copied, the product gets devalued. The original producers have to bear this loss as change of product invariably involves substantial investment and time. The effect is quite alarming. The exploitation in the sector has reached such serious proportions that the skilled artisans are shifting their age old

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profession of weaving to other occupation like making incense sticks, selling green chanas (seasonal work), and the women have begun to do domestic labour in the homes of middle class families in their neighbourhood. In addition, weavers are leaving Varanasi and migrating to cities like Surat to work in powerloom industry, which produces art silk fabrics and saree. In such a scenario, the protection under GI was sought by the producers of Banaras Brocades & Saree. The Textiles Committee in collaboration with state government facilitated GI registration of the product in 2010. The Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) protection of Banaras Brocades & Saree will provide much needed safeguards against counterfeit products originating from domestic as well as international market in the following ways: • The mandate of the TRIPs agreement has included GI as one of the IPR for protection of unique hand-woven products of member countries (Article-22). As per the mandate, the member countries can seek protection for GI designated products in other member countries once it is registered in the domestic country. One of the interesting outcomes of the agreement is that until & unless the product is protected in the domestic country, the stakeholders of original product can’t claim/ take action against infringement in other countries. Hence, it is very much essential to register the product in own country to safeguard the product as per the mandate. Since the counterfeits are produced in other countries and exported to world market in the name of Banaras Saree or Brocades, the original producers can seek protection in other WTO member countries and initiate infringement action against this dishonest business practices. It will help in safeguarding the original Banaras weave in the international market and enhance its market share. • Similarly, one of the major threats experienced by the weavers has been from domestic market. Most of the counterfeit sarees and brocades are originating from within the country. The power looms and mills beyond the designated region are weaving art silk fabrics & sarees and marketing in the name of Banaras. This trend has posed a serious threat to the existence of this unique product. The GI act stipulates that “subject to other provision of the act, the registration of a Geographical Indication shall if valid, give (a) to the register proprietor of a GI and the authorised user thereof the right to obtain relief in respect of infringement of the GI in the manner provided in the act (b) the authorised user that of the exclusive right to the use of GI in relation to the goods in respect of which the GI is registered (Ch-IV, Section 21(I)”. Further, the act prescribed punishment for falsification or infringement of designated GI in Section-39 of Chapter-VIII. The provision explains that any person, who falsify the GI shall be punishable with imprisonment for a term which shall not be less than six months but which may extend to three years and with fine which shall not be less than six months but which may extend to three years and with fine which shall not be less than fifty thousand rupees but which may extend to two lakhs rupees (Sec-39)”. The stipulations clearly spell out, how stringent the act is on infringers or on falsification of GI: Since majority of counterfeit Banaras Brocades & Sarees are produced in domestic market, the registration shall substantially help in containment of infringement. If 1/3rd of Counterfeit Banaras Brocades & Sarees are withdrawn from the market, it will help in increase in price of the original gods leading to increased income for thousands of weavers. It will also ensure enhanced brand value and market share of this IPR protected product. • One of the important controversial aspects of TRIPs agreement on GI is absolute protection to GI designated wines and

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE spirits under Article-23 of the TRIPs agreement. Now the question arises that does the absolute protection for Banaras Brocades and Saree is necessary? To answer the question let us analyse the various components of the article-23. Article 23.1 stipulates that the members to provide legal means for interested parties to prevent use of a geographical indication for products “…..not originates in the place indicated by geographical indication in question, even where the true origin of the goods is indicated …” .In absence of such protection for the product, it would be possible for producers of the other country say China to use the name Banaras Saree & Brocade for products originated from China, if it is not protected in the same country. Further, article 23.1 prohibits use of geographical indication if “… the geographical indication is used in translation…”.Lack of this protection may pose a threat as the popular brand name may be used by the producers of other products say food items. Hosiery products in case of lack of country specific registration and protection of the product. Article 23.1 prohibits the use of geographical indication “accompanied by expressions such as kind, type, style, imitation or the like”. As this is not applicable for saree and brocades, it would be possible for example for the producers of China to put the words like imitation of Banaras Saree & Brocades on its silk products but they can’t use the logo if protected in the respective country say China or stopped at the border. Similarly, article 23.2 stipulates that the registration of the trademark for wines which contains or consists of a geographical indication identifying wines or spirits which contains or consists of a geographical indication identifying spirits shall be refused or invalidated, ex-officio if a members legislation so permits or at the request of an interested party, with respect to such wines or spirits not having this origin”. These aspects may not be applicable for products like Banaras Saree and Brocades. One important element of the TRIPs agreement is that the member countries will have to decide on mode of protection of geographical indication. As of now different countries are using different mode of protection for the purpose. These are (a) a Sui generic law (b) Certification or collects marks under trademark laws (c) under unfair competition or consumer protection laws. In the countries which protect the GI designated products under Sui generic law/certification or collective marks under trademark laws, a logo could be more appropriate to protect the GI designated products. In this case the original producers can stop counterfeit goods only by proving that the infringed producers are not authorised to use logo, as they do not produce it in the region, which the GI logo stipulates. On the other hand, it is difficult to protect the GI designated products through logo in the countries, which applies unfair competition law or consumer protection law. In these countries the infringement of the products can be stopped in the court of law with the proof that the consumers are misled because consumers identify logo of GI designated products for originality. In case of non-use of logo as a protection of registration, it may be difficult to prove that the consumers are deceived due to presence of counterfeit goods in the market. Fortunately, the producers of Banaras have registered logo for protection under GI Act. In the above analyses, it appears that the article-23 helps producers to prove the deception of consumers by counterfeit good in an easier ways than under article-22 of the agreement. Hence absolute protection appears a better mode for protecting designated Banaras Brocades & Saree. However, the Indian GI Act does not stipulate any dichotomy approach for protection of GI among the products. Hence, the registered Banaras Brocades & Saree can seek absolute protection in Indian market and adequate protection in other coun-

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tries by registering the product in the respective countries under the provision of their law and through registered logo.

4 Road Ahead

The registration of Banaras Brocades & Saree is no doubt a boost to protection & promotion of product and safeguarding from dishonest business practices. But only registration may not serve the purpose. The containment of infringement through legal means as stipulated under the Act should be prioritised. A withdrawal of about Rs. 2700 crores of counterfeit Banaras Brocades & Saree may help the original weavers to realise more than 20 % more premium price. The realisation of better premium price will ultimately help weavers to enhance their disposable income and initiate process of inclusion of younger generation to this occupation. At the same time, the integration of supply chain to the original weavers through brand promotion and market linkage in form of Post-GI initiatives could also be helpful in realising true potential of the product both in domestic as well as in world market.

4.1 Conclusion:

Banaras has acquired reputation for origin of this world renewed hand-woven textiles. It is the quality or reputation that distinguishes product from similar products across the globe. When GI acquires such reputation, there is always an attempt by dishonest business practices to take away the premium price associated with it leading to infringement. As a result, the original producer looses a part of the market share of his product and the consumer gets counterfeit goods without original quality and uniqueness. Hence, the registration of the product is a right step in right direction for protecting this unique product from infringement. Further, the GI designated products bears the legacy of make in India ” as it has originated in the country and creates employment opportunities particularly in the rural India. The IPR protection and strengthening its supply chain through Post-GI initiatives will help in boosting the manufacturing activities in rural based SMEs and help in realising India as a major manufacturing & exporting hub in the world besides protecting IP interest of the country. It may also help in countries resolve to strengthen “Make in India” programme of present government. Note

The Doha Round is the latest round of trade negotiations among the WTO member countries. Its aim is to achieve major reform of international trading system through the introduction of lower trade barriers and revised trade rules. The Round was officially launched at the WTO’s Fourth Ministerial Conference in Doha, Qatar, in November 2001.The Round is also known as the Doha Development Agenda as a fundamental objective is to improve the trading prospects of developing countries. The Doha Ministerial Declaration provided the mandate for the negotiations, including on agriculture, services and an intellectual property rights, which began earlier. World Trade Organization (WTO) is an intergovernmental organization officially commenced on 1 January 1995 under the Marrakech Agreement, signed by 123 nations on 15 April 1994 replacing the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT). It deals with the global rules of trade between nations. Its main function is to ensure that trade flows as smoothly, predictably and freely as possible. Article 22 to 24 of Part II, Section I the Trade Related intellectual Property Rights (TRIPs) agreement defined the nature and scope of protection of the geographical indications.The TRIPs agreement was signed in 1994 among the WTO members. India is also a founding member and signatory to the agreement. Even though the member countries have accepted the TRIPs council mandate on absolute protection in letter and spirit, majority of the countries are also insisting for same level of protection for all products. the discussion over the extension of protection to products other than wines and spirits started in the year 2000, as a group of countries including Bangladesh, Bulgaria, Cuba, Cyprus, Pakistan, India and others opposed dis-

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE criminatory nature additional protection and demanded similar protection

for other products. However, their argument was negated citing the clause of Article 24.1, which stipulates negotiations for enhanced protection for wines and spirits only. Whereas the promoters of this thought are of the view that this article refers to the products other than wines and spirits. Geographical Indications (GI) Act (Registration and Protection) Act 1999, and implemented in the year 2003. Under this act, the Central Government has established a “Geographical Indications Registry” with all India jurisdictions at Chennai, where the right-holders can register their respective GIs. The products registered mostly belong to handloom, handicraft, agriculture and natural goods. The first product registered in India under GI Act is Darjeeling tea in 2003 followed by pochampally Ikat, a unique handloom product of Andhra Pradesh. Textiles Committee is a statutory body under the Ministry of Textiles working for the development of Textile & clothing sector of the country and promoting GI registration. Article-23.3 deals with homonymous geographical indications and provides that “In the case of homonymous geographical indication for wines, protection shall be accorded to each indication”. Homonymous geographical indication may not be a problem for almost all GIs coming out of India. Article 23.3 talks that “….. The establishment of multilateral system of notification and registration of geographical indication for wines eligible for protection in those members participating in the system”. In the present circumstances a legally enforceable multilateral system could be the only benefit for extension of article -23 protections to other products like Banaras Saree & Brocades. The Textiles Committee has prepared a model for Post-GI initiatives for converting IPR protection into tangible benefits for the producers of GI designated products. Make In India is the national program designed to transform India into a global manufacturing and export hub. It contains a raft of proposals designed to urge companies both local and foreign to invest in India and make the country a manufacturing powerhouse.

References

Dr. Dwijen Rangnekar, Senior Research Fellow, School of Public Policy, University College London, Geographical Indications: “A Review of Proposals at the TRIPS Council: Extending Article 23 to Products other than Wines and Spirits”– Issue Paper No.4, UNCTAD – ICTSD. Elizabeth Barham, Translating Terroir: The Global Challenge of French AOC Labelling by Journal of Rural Studies 19 (2003). Policy Brief, No.8, Year 2004 – Geographical Indications under TRIPS Protection Regimes and Development in Asia. International Trademark Association, 1 May 2002 – “Doha’s Impact on TRIPS: Balancing Geographical Indications (GIs) Protection” organised by the International Trademark Association (INTA). WTO, Annual Report 2005. Arfini, F. and C. Mora Zanetti, 1998: Typical products and local development: The case of Parma area, in F. Arfini and C. Mora, eds. Typical and Traditional Products: Rural Effects and Agro-Industrial Problems, Proceedings of the 52nd Seminar of the European Association of Agricultural Economists, June 19 – 21, 1997, Parma, Italy. Parma: Universita di Parma. . Baeumer, L. 1999: Protection of geographical indications under WIPO treaties and questions concerning the relationship between those treaties and the TRIPS Agreement, in WIPO, Symposium on the International Protection of Geographical Indications, Eger, Hungary, October 24 & 25, 1997. Publication No. 760(E). Geneva: WIPO. Barjolle, D. and B. Sylvander, 2000: PDO and PGI Products: Market, Supply Chains and Institutions, Final Report, FAIR 1-CT95-0306, June 2000. Brussels: European Commission. Benko, R., 1987, Protecting Intellectual Property Rights: Issues and Controversies. Washington DC, USA: American Enterprise Institute for Public Policy Research. Blakeney, M., 2001: Geographical Indications and TRIPS: Occasional Paper No.8. Quaker United Nations Office, Geneva. Calindi, Niranjan Rao, 2203: Geographical Indications in Indian Context: A case study of Darjeeling Tea, ICRIER, New Delhi. Mimeo (Forthcoming as a working paper). Dutfield, G. 2000: Intellectual Property Rights, Trade and Biodiversity, Earthscan, London. Economides, Nicholas S. 1988: The economics of trademarks, Trademark Reporter, 78: 523-539.

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Freedom, P., 1994: “Boundaries of good taste”, Geographical. Gervais, D., 1998: The TRIPS Agreement: Drafting history and analysis. London: Sweet & Maxwell. Harte-Bavendamm, H., 2000: Geographical Indications and Trademarks: Harmony or conflict? In Anon., ed., Symposium on the International protection of geographical indications, Somerset West, Cape Province, South Africa, September 1 & 2, 1999. Publication No.764 (E). WIPO, Geneva. llbery, B. and M. Kneafsey, 2000a: “Producer constructions of quality in regional speciality food production: A case study from south-west England”, Journal of Rural Studies 16(2), pp. 217-30. llbery, B. and M. Kneafsey, 2000b: “Registering regional speciality food and drink products in the United Kingdom: the case of PDOs and PGIs.” Area 32(3): 317-325. Landes, William M. and Richard A. Posner, 1987: “Trademark law: an economic perspective”. Journal of Law and Economics, 30(2): 265-309. McMichael, Philip: 1994: The Global Re-structuring of Agro-Food Systems, Ithaca, USA: Cornell University Press. Press and Information Division of the European Court of Justice, 2003, Judgements of the Court of Justice in Cases C – 469/00 and C-108/01 – The Court Confirms the Extent of Protection Conferred by Community Legislation on Grana Padano Cheese and Parma Ham, Press Release No.42/03, available at http://europa.eu.int/cj/en/actu/communiques/cp03/aff/cp0342en.htm. UNCTAD/ICTSD, 2003: Resource Books on TRIPS and Development: Part Two – Substantive Obligations: 2.3 Geographical Indications. Prepared for the UNCTAD/ICTSD Capacity Building Project on Intellectual Property Rights and Sustainable Development, Geneva. Available at http://www.iprsonline.org/unctadictsd/ResourceBookIndex.htm. Saris of India by Markand Singh, RTA Kapur Chisti & Amba Sanyal published in the year 1989 by Wiley Eastern Ltd., & Amar Vastra Kosh, New Delhi. Tie-dyed Textiles of India by Veronica Murphy & Rosemary Crill published in the year 1991 by Victoria & Albert Museum & Mapin Publishing P. Ltd., UK. Textile Arts of India by Kokyo Hatanaka,published in the year 1993 by Kyoto Shoin Co.Ltd., Japan. Heritage of India authors fabric by Sukla Das in the year 1992 published by Shakti Malik Abhinav. Hand woven Fabrics of India edited Jasleen Dhamija & Jyotindra Jain 1989 Mapin Publishing P. Ltd., Ahmedabad. Traditional India Textiles by John Gillow, Nicholas Barnard in the year 1991, published by Thames & Hudson Ltd., London. Watal,J,2001: Intellectual Property Rights in the WTO and developing countries. Kluwer Law International, The Hague. Watts,M,1996:”Development III:The global agrofood system and late twentieth-century development (or Kautsy redux)” prog.Hum.Georgr(prog.Hum. 2002:What is a geographical Indication? http://www.wipo.int/about-ip/en/index. html Schechter,Frank Isaac,1925:The historical foundationsof the law relating to trademarks.new work:Columbia university Press. Niranjan Rao Calindi, 2003:Geographical Indications in the Indian Context:A case study of Darjeeling Tea,ICRIER,New Delhi. The Gezette of India Extraoprdinary,Part-II,Section-I,Published by Govt. of India,New-Delhi,1999. Geographical Indication Jurnal,Issue no-1-14, Published by Geographical Indication Registry, Govt. of India, Chennai. Gangee, Dev Saif,, 2002:Geographical Indication Protection For Handicrafts Under TRIPS, University of Oxford,Faculty of Law. Dr. Dwijen Rangnekar,Senior Research Fellow in International Economic Law,Centre for the study of Globalisation and Regionalisation,Warwick University,Coventry.2003: The Socio-Economics of Geographical Indications:A Review of Empatical Evidence from Europe. The Journal of Intellectual Property,Vol 5,Number 6,2002. WIPO Intellectual Property Handbook:Policy,Law and Use,World Intellectual Property Right Organisation,Publication No.489(E), Second Edition,ISBN 92805-1291-7,2004. Banarasi Brocades, Edited by Ajit Mukherjee, Crafts Museum, New DelhiTextiles Committee (2009), Dream of Weaving: Study and documentation of Banaras Sarees and Brocades Uttar Pradesh district gazetteers, Varanasi published by the Government of the U P, Lucknow in 1965 Voyage and travels of Lord Valentina Part – I, London 1811 Elizabeth Barham, Translating Terroir: The Global Challenge of French AOC Labelling by Journal of Rural Studies 19 (2003). International Trademark Association, 1 May 2002 – “Doha’s Impact on TRIPS: Balancing Geographical Indications (GIs) Protection” organised by the International Trademark Association (INTA). Global Economic Prospects and the Developing Countries, 2002 (World Bank, Washington DC 2001). www.textilescommittee.gov.in

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March 2016


POST EVENT REPORT

Seminar on the Indian Textiles and Apparel Industry During the Make in India Week, Ministry of Textiles and CII jointly organized the Seminar on the Indian Textiles and Apparel Industry – Showcasing India’s Strengths across the Value Chain on 18th February 2016 in Mumbai. Almost 450 participants from textile and apparel industry, global apparel sourcing companies, policy makers, government officials and subject experts attended the Seminar. The Seminar was inaugurated by Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Minister of State (IC), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.Ms Rashmi Verma, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles was the Guest of Honor. Mr BK Goenka, Chairman, Welspun Group, delivered the Welcome Address to set the tone of the Seminar. He said that the‘Make in India’Initiative would help to engage all the segments of Indian textile value chain with a renewed focus to bring updated technologies and innovations across the segments. Speaking on the tremendous contribution made by the textile sector to the growth of the Indian economy,Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar, accentuated that the “Textile and Apparel industry is one of the key sectors of India’s manufacturing segment as it contributes significantly to the economy in terms of employment generation, foreign exchange revenue and above all, its backward linkages to the rural economy that gives huge opportunities to millions of farmers, artisans, handloom and handicraft manufacturers.” He also added that the dynamics of the market economy have thrown up both opportunities and challenges to our industry and different countries in the region have concentrated in areas where they have comparative advantage. The Indian textile industry should gear up to attain its desired position in the global market and the government is willing to provide all possible support by creating enabling frameworks. India would be exporting about USD 185 billion of textile and apparel by 2025. Considering the targeted growth in exports, India should be able to double the share of the global textile and apparel trade from the present level of 5%. India can achieve higher growth rates of finished products such as apparel, home furnishing, and technical textiles. This would maximize employment generation and value creation within the country and realize the Hon’ble Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s vision of ‘Make in India’. According to MsRashmi Verma,“The growth of the textile industry is vital for national development but the industry is yet to achieve its true potential in the global market. The Make in India initiative will bring more investments in the sector and create an efficient eco system which will benefit the entire value chain. India’s increasing efficiency in the sector along with 100% FDI allowed in the industry is helping Indian textile firms to consolidate their export positions.”Highlighting the government’s thrust to boost the sector, Rashmi Verma said, “72 Textile Parks have been approved so far and 20 new textile parks have been sanctioned for facilitating investment of up to Rs 4,500 crore which therefore is expected to generate employment for 66,000 people.” The scheme implemented in the PPP mode has been reoriented to promote industrialization. Such measure by the current government ensures improved investment flow in the sector. Mr Naishad Parikh, Director, Arvind Ltd, in his Closing Remarks and Vote of Thanks,highlighted the comparative advantages of Indian industry and how the industry could generate more employ-

March 2016

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ment and skill if proper growth dimensions are achieved.He said that India can do much more in the textile sector if proper policies are adopted. He assured that the ‘Make in India’ initiative will catapult India to become the global textiles export hub. The Inaugural Session was followed by 2 Plenary Sessions. Plenary Session I: Showcasing the Success Stories of the Indian Textile and Apparel Industry This session was chaired by Dr Kavita Gupta, Textiles Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles. The other speaker were Mr Gautam Hari Singhania, Chairman and Managing Director, Raymond Ltd; Mr K KMaheshwari, Managing Director, Grasim Industries Ltd; Mr Pramod Khosla, Chairman, ITTA and CEO, Khosla Profil Pvt Ltd; Mr Amit Uplenchwar,Adani Ports and Special Economic Zone Ltd, and Chairman, Mundra SEZ Textile & Apparel Park (MITAP). This session showcased the success stories of the Indian Textiles and Apparel Industry, highlighting the potential opportunities in emerging sectors such as Technical Textiles, clusters and integrated textiles park. All the speakers gave extensive presentations showcasing the global competitiveness and opportunities of the Indian textiles market. Plenary Session II: Panel Discussion- India as a Major Sourcing Hub for Garments and Home Textiles This session was chaired and moderated by Mr R C M Reddy, Managing Director and CEO, IL&FS Cluster Development Initiative. Other panelists included Mr SudhirDhingra, Chairman and Managing Director, Orient Craft Limited; Mr Gautam Nair,Managing Director, Matrix Clothing; Ms Deepika Rana, Executive Director - Indian Subcontinent and Sub Saharan Africa, Li & Fung; Mr Gustaf Asp, Managing Director, H&M India; Mr Calvin Woolley, Category Head – Textiles, IKEA India;Mr JagadishHinduja, Chairman, Gokaldas Images Pvt Ltd; Mr Bharat Shah, Founder & Chairman, Ekaya, Shah Narayan Das & Co. This session created a dialogue forum between domestic players, large sourcing houses, and international players investing in India to share their experiences in the Indian markets. This session broadly discussed the key challenges faced by domestic and international investors, global competitiveness of the industry, productivity and skill development, innovation, technology upgradation, and ease of doing business.

Inaugural Session: (From Left to Right): Mr Naishadh Parikh, Director Arvind Ltd; Ms Rashmi Verma, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles; Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Minister of State (IC), Ministry of Textiles; Mr B K Goenka, Chairman, Welspun Ltd

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POST EVENT REPORT “IPTEX 16 4TH INTERNATIONAL POWER TRANS‐ MISSION EXPO & GRINDEX INTERNATIONAL 2016” AN EXCLUSIVE EXPO ON GRINDING AND FINISH‐ ING PROCESS The 4th International Power Transmission Expo (IPTEXPO) and the 2nd International Grinding and Surface Finishing Expo (GRINDEXPO) was organized by Virgo Communications and Exhibitions (P) Ltd., Bangalore, during 3-5 March, 2016 at Bombay Exhibition Center, Goregaon, Mumbai. This Expo brought in the most innovative technologies, products and solutions from India and abroad in regard with power transmission systems as well as gearing technologies. The twin expo attracted over 100 leading companies from across the globe showcasing their latest products. The seminars on various important aspects of Gears, Grinding and Heat Treatment were also organized during the exhibition period. The main aim of Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (ITAMMA) for participating in this exhibition was to given an opportunity for our members to enrich their knowledge on the latest technology in gearing and power transmission systems through this exhibition. This was a very good opportunity for our members to know the latest technologies of gearing and power transmission systems for adopting the same in their manufacturing process in order to deliver a state-of-the-art assemblies and machines. ITAMMA being a supporting organization to the above event was offered a complimentary stall No.F-1. Accordingly a ‘Catalogue Display Scheme’ was executed by ITAMMA in its stall under the banner of ITAMMA Pavilion.

3 ITAMMA’s members participated in the Catalogue Display Scheme:

1) Britex Industries, 2) Century Inks Pvt. Ltd., 3) Excel Industrial Gears Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Mayank J. Roy, President, ITAMMA, was invited to inaugurate the exhibition along with Mr. Joe Franklin, Jr. President, American Gear Manufacturers Association (AGMA), USA. Mr. Mayank J. Roy during his inaugural speech mentioned that today the Gear Technology has Changed & Improved for Quality, Precision, Durability, Incorporating - Heat Treatment, Teeth Profile Grinding, for IGMA quality standard for Textile Machines, Printing Machines, Robot Welding Plant for Automobile Industries, Medical Equipment for Laser Technique Machines for accurate operation for Human Organs like Eye-Ball, Brain etc. This application required Gear with 3D Backless for such quality checking precision measuring equipment also developed. We at Excel Industrial Gears Pvt. Ltd. since 1977 are serving to various Industries in India & Abroad. He also added that this exhibition will create an excellent platform for our member from TEI

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to explore for new technologies in gearing and transmitting systems and good vendors for their products. ITAMMA being oldest and largest Association in TEI and has to its record more than 480 members. We expect our members in large members as visitors for this exhibition. ITAMMA have been supporting the International Power Transmission Expo, IPTEX and International Grinding and Surface Finishing Expo GRINDEX, for the last two events. It is our pleasure to provide the platform for a business oriented interaction with the manufacturers and suppliers of gears and mechanical power equipments, who are important for our business, being the source of machine components for delivering good quality textile machines. Mr. N.D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech), ITAMMA, also delivered a Key Note Address where he gave a detail Power Point Presentation and conveyed the importance of gearing and transmission systems in the development of present hi-tech weaving machines. He also mentioned that the inception of various technologies and automation in computerizing, hydraulics, pneumatics, electromagnetic have been introduced in the present machines where the slow moving and lengthy drives through mechanical linkages have been eliminated. Also certain technologies like crank motions replaced by cam motions and heavy media of web transfers through heavy wooden shuttles have also been replaced by light and fast moving medias of Airjet, Waterjet and Rapier technologies. These developments have increased the performance and have also helped in conservation of energy, power and proved to be user friendly to the operators. These conservations have also changed the concept of lubrication where introduction of central lubrication system with an attachment of filtration have been incorporated in the looms itself.

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March 2016


POST EVENT REPORT

TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA), MUMBAI UNIT Conference on “INNOVATIONS @ ITMA 2015, MILAN”

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit organized Conference on “Innovations @ ITMA 2015, Milan” on Friday, 12th February 2016 at Hotel The Lalit, Mumbai. The Conference received overwhelming response. Mr. C. Bose, President, TAI, Mumbai Unit welcomed the Chief Guest, Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India and Guest of Honour Mr. Aniruddha Deshmukh, Managing Director & CEO, Mafatlal Industries Ltd. He also welcomed all the Speakers, Invitees & Delegate to the conference. Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit and Convener of the Conference gave the highlights of the event. Mr. Gupte said that ITMA is the biggest global market place and one-stop sourcing platform for emerging trends and innovation solutions. It covers the whole production chain from spinning, weaving, non-wovens, knitting right through to finishing. In addition to machinery, ITMA 2015 covered dyes/pigment manufacturers as well. ITMA 2015 coincided with the dates of the Diwali Festival and hence many people were not able to visit this mega event. The TAI, Mumbai Unit immediately thought of this and invited dignitaries those who attended ITMA 2015 to give the first hand information about the latest developments in international market. TAI Mumbai has made all attempts to give the glimpse of ITMA Exhibition to the delegates. As a Convener of the Conference, he thanked all the speakers, sponsors, advertisers and delegates for their kind support to make this conference a great success. Mr. Aniruddha Deshmukh, Managing Director & CEO, Mafatlal Industries Ltd. was the Guest of Honour for the conference. While addressing the gathering he said that ITMA was certainly a big extravaganza and the technicians were befitted from the innovations displayed at the Show. Mr. Deshmukh said that a customer is a priority and we have to see that how we can reach this customer in the best possible way.

ference. Mr. Jorg Machholz, Product Application Technologist, Fongs Europe GmbH spoke on “Goller – Cold Pad Batch”. Mr. Matthias Wulbeck, Area sales manager, Mahlo, Germany. Mr. Updeep Singh, Managing Director, Itema Weaving (India) Pvt. Ltd. Mr. Elliyas Mohammad, Business Development Manager, (Disperse Dyes), Colourtex Industries Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “Sustainable Innovation”. Mr. Manash Kumar Dey, Voltas Limited expressed his views on “Thies Dyeing Machines”. Mr. Vinod Kumar V., Sales Manager, Voltas Limited made the presentation on “Reggiani Digital Printing”. The last session began with Panel Discussion, which was moderated by Dr. Sanjiv Kamat, Vice President, Kothari Info-Tech Limited. The Panel Discussion drew much more attraction and enthusiasm during the conference. There was substantial presence of the participants for this Session. The panel comprised Dr. A. N. Desai, Director, BTRA, Mr. Tapas Nandi, Country Head (India), Groz-Beckert Asia Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Dilip Gianchandani, Chief Operating Officer, Fibre2Fashion.com, Mr. Nitin Bavkar, Director, Smitin Marketing Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Anand Jaiswal, Director, Euro Texmach Pvt. Ltd. and Mr. V. R. Sai Ganesh, General Manager-Marketing (National), Atul Ltd. There was good interaction between participants, who posed many questions to panel members and same were answered very promptly by the panel members. It was a very interesting and memorable session. Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit proposed a vote of the thanks. The Conference was a grand success and was attended by 275 participants.

Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India was the Chief Guest of the conference. In her inaugural address she said that the textile machinery is a base of textile industry and they produce variety of products for the use of customers. She further added that as a woman she is also a consumer of this fancy world. The Technology, the machines are changing in a very fast way and hence to tackle this situation all of us should take necessary urgent measures. The product share was 45 to 50% nearly 200 years back and presently it is about 5.8%. She appealed to all delegates to come together and take the product share to at least 20-30% of the global share. To achieve such share, the technology and machines would be extremely critical and crucial. She then made a short presentation on “Overview of Textile Industry” which was very informative. In all, there were 6 technical papers presented during the Con-

March 2016

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POST EVENT REPORT

CMAI DEMANDS WITHDRAWAL OF EXCISE DUTY ON BRANDED READYMADE GARMENTS

The Hon’bleFinance Minister should withdraw Excise Duty on Branded Readymade Garments and continue the Optional Duty Regime that applies currently, until GST is introduced. Once GST is introduced, the whole value chain will be covered by duty and traceability as well as compliance will improve tremendously and implementation problems will also ease considerably, stated Mr. Rahul Mehta, President, The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), while Addressing a Seminar on Excise Duty on Branded Readymade Garments on 6th March 2016 in Mumbai. It may be recalled that introduction of Excise Duty on finished Products, while sustaining the Exemption for upstream Products, was an experiment implemented a few years back by the previous Government and withdrawn subsequently when the disastrous consequences were understood. Repeating that experiment is the last thing that the Industry needed, especially when the entire Textiles and Clothing Industry in the Country is already going through a Crisis because of demand recession both in the Domestic and Export Markets. Mr. Rahul Mehta further stated that “We have in the past pointed out time and again that the very task of collecting this Excise Duty from the highly dispersed and mostly tiny units in the Garment Sector would be a formidable one for the Government, especially when the rest of the value chain remains exempted and therefore traceability is a serious issue. The large number of small and tiny units in the Sector will also find it impossible to follow the procedures involved. The result will be that evaders will prosper and compliant units will suffer. As we have emphasized before, the Revenue for the Government from this decision will be negligible, whereas the problems that it would create for the Industry will be huge”. The introduction of the Rs.1000 cut off price point for the applicability of Excise Duty will further complicate and impact the Industry. It may be pertinent to note that the stress of our Honorable Prime Minister has been on quality of Indian Manufacturing. Rightly, the future of the Industry lies in Modernizing our Machinery, Plant, and Equipment, and improving our quality to face the onslaught of International Brands, which are entering the Market every day. The temptation to avoid crossing the Rs.1000 barrier so as to escape the Excise Duty net, will drive hundreds of small manufacturers, who otherwise were gearing up to Modernize and grow their Operations, to tinker with the quality of Product, to minimize Expenditure on Modernization and to keep their operation scale as low as possible.

CMAIorganised the Seminar where Mr. ShaileshSheth, Advocate and an Indirect Tax Practitioner was invited as a key note speaker. The speaker, at the outset,stated that as anticipated, there has been an all-round confusion and panic amongst the industry due to this sudden re-imposition of Excise Duty. He impressed upon the gathering that the levy has to be seen in the context of the impending GST regime which, in any case, would comprehensively cover the entire textile sector. He also emphasised that the so-called fear of ‘Inspector-Raj’ is unfounded as CBEC has announced significant procedural relaxations for the sector, including dispensing with post-registration verification of registered premises, acceptance of CA certified stock declarations as well as turnover for the purpose of exemption and so on. He further pointed out that considering the fact that the industry is dominated by job work, the responsibility to pay duty has been cast upon the raw material suppliers who has also been given an option toauthorise the job workers to pay duty on their behalf. He pointed out that pre-budget stock of branded garments with RSP of Rs.1000 and above and lying with the manufacturers as on 29.02.2016 would attract the duty on its clearance after 01.03.2016. He also explained in detail the concept of ‘deemed manufacture’ and advised the gathering that any process of affixation of brandname and RSP of Rs.1000 and above on a product shall attract the levy of duty, irrespective of the status of the person involved in the process, i.e. manufacturer or wholesaler or retailer. He also said that however, the readymade garments other than those which are branded and having RSP of Rs.1000 and above, continued to be exempted from duty. He further pointed out that the tariff value for the garments brought under the levy has been increased from 30% of RSP to 60% of RSP. The benefit of small scale exemption of Rs.1.50 crore has been extended to the industry, but the same is restricted to Rs.12.5 lakhs for the month of March, 2016. The speaker explained the method of computation of value of clearances for the purpose of determining the eligibility to exemption.

By this single move, the Government is once again encouraging the mushrooming of small, under-productive, dated manufacturing units, producing questionable quality and veering towards the unorganized sector. To alleviate the fears amongst the players in the industry and with a view to educate them about the various aspects of the levy,

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March 2016


COTTON REPORT

Mr. Manish Daga MD, COTTON GURU cottongurutm@gmail.com

INDIA Arrivals: (as on date: 01-03-2016) State wise Arrivals

2014-15 (Lac bales)

2015-16 (Lac bales)

Punjab

09.83

04.70

Haryana

16.25

09.57

Rajasthan

16.45

12.66

Gujarat

65.83

53.50

Maharashtra

56.10

49.60

M. P.

15.04

14.07

Telangana

49.26

43.59

A. P.

21.80

14.20

Karnataka

17.49

11.08

Orissa

02.60

02.39

Other

03.86

01.95

274.53

218.08

Total

Domestic Market Summary:

Indian cotton prices, since the beginning of 2016, has fallen 3% compared with over 9% correction in international prices. Prices in India are finding support on the back of rising exports. India’s exports in the current year that started on Oct.1 could rise to 7 million bales, up from 5.77 million bales a year ago, due to good demand from Pakistan which is buying more cotton than expected from India. Severe floods have reduced Pakistan crop to the smallest in over a decade. India has already exported over 4.6 million bales of cotton so far this year, of which nearly 2 million bales were shipped to Pakistan. Bangladesh is expected to import about 1.5 million bales from India between Mar to Sep 2016. The Cotton Advisory Board has forecast that cotton production in India will fall by over 7% to around 35.2 million bales (170 kg each) for the October 2015-September 2016 crop year against 38 million bales in the previous year. Meanwhile, the Cotton Corporation of India has procured about 0.8 million bales in the current crop season, which also helped in providing a floor to cotton prices. Current cotton prices seem to have bottomed out, especially for quality cotton.

International Market:

*In 2016-17, China’s production is forecast to decline, consumption to rise and imports to remain at 5 million bales. *The increase in China’s mill use would be the first since 2009-10 when it hit a record 50 million bales. *Outside China, USDA expects no net growth of cotton consumption in 2016-17. China’s increase of a million bales is projected to account for the entire gain in world consumption next season.

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*Strong competition from polyester continues to constrain global cotton demand. Cotton prices this season have been higher than polyester prices than any time since 2011, despite declining in absolute terms.

Despite a drop in production, cotton prices have been falling owing to higher carryover stocks. Cotton prices in the international market have also crashed to a 7-year low. The fall is due to widespread fears that China, which has been a net big importer, will soon start selling cotton from reserves, depressing prices across the world.

China: Planted area in China, the world’s 2nd largest cotton producer, is expected to contract 8.8% nationally & 6.5% in Xinjiang (China’s top producing region) in 2016 as China prepares to off-load a portion of its massive cotton reserve. The government is under pressure to sell the ageing stocks, which degrade over time and are piling up inventory costs. Traders said it was too early to say whether reduced cotton cultivation in Xinjiang would have much impact on supply. The USDA slashed its forecast this month for Chinese cotton consumption in 2015/16, putting it at just under 7 million tons due to factors such as the falling prices of polyester and the weakening Chinese economy. New rumor on cotton auction policy appeared this weekend. The reserve auction price is rumored to set by the average price of CIF price of Cotlook A Index and CC Index 3128B, and the 13% of value-added tax and 1% of import duty will be added in calculation. Based on this rumor, auction price will be higher than earlier estimate. Therefore, ZCE cotton futures rebounded.

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COTTON REPORT Pakistan:

The Pak government has set the cotton production target for 2016-17 season at 14.101 million bales after betting on its plans to improve the output, which is on the downward trend during the current year owing to pest attacks and floods. The government aimed at 15.49 million cotton bales in the beginning of 2015-16 season, but it had to scale down the targets at least 3 times after the heavy rains and pest attacks damaged the crop. The cotton production declined over 30% during this season to February end. Turkey: Although the outcome of a recent hearing was inconclusive, many mills appear resigned to the likelihood that the government will accept the recommendation to impose anti-dumping duties on US cotton, and soon make an announcement to that effect. U.S.: To achieve the USDA forecast, shipments need to average

roughly 243,200 RB a week, while weekly sales averaging about 102,500 RB would match the export projection.

REPORTS:

USDA: Cotton hits multi year low as 2016: Forecasts for increased U.S. and world production next season, lackluster demand prospects and ongoing expectations of large impending sales from China’s state reserves pounded cotton futures to new contract and multiyear lows last week. U.S. cotton acreage is expected to expand next season, mainly on a return of area prevented from planting last season, USDA analysts say, along with slightly more favorable prices for cotton against acreage-competing crops. The USDA’s early analytical projection, reported at its annual Outlook Forum, put plantings at 9.4 million acres, up 9.6 percent from 2015 and 300,000 acres above an earlier National Cotton Council survey. However, relatively higher input costs for cotton may put it at a disadvantage against competing crops, USDA analysts acknowledge. Globally, USDA projected 2016-17 ending stocks to fall to 99.1 million bales from 104.1 million. Production is projected to rise 4.1 percent to 105.5 million bales from 101.4 million and consumption to edge up 0.8 percent to 110.5 million bales from 109.6 million. The USDA estimates China will hold 49 million bales in its reserve at the beginning of 2016-17, nearly half of world stocks, and will have 43 million bales in that stockpile at the end of the season. This assumes China’s policies will remain largely unchanged, resulting in lower production and continued import restrictions on the supply side, while the current lower domestic prices and initiatives to support spinning in Xinjiang boost demand. In this policy framework, USDA sees a potential for China to reduce overall stocks by an additional 8 percent to 59.1 million bales following an estimated 5 percent drawdown to 64.5 million for

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2015-16. China’s production is forecast to decline 4.2 percent to 22.8 million bales in 2016-17, consumption to rise 3.1 percent to 33 million bales and imports to remain at 5 million bales. Outside China, USDA expects no net overall growth of cotton consumption in 2016-17. China’s increase of a million bales is projected to account for the entire gain in world consumption. Strong competition from polyester continues to constrain global cotton demand. Market talk circulated that April now appears the most likely possibility as a starting time for sales from China’s cotton reserves. ICAC: Stocks Shrinking Due to Production Loss in 2015/16 World ending stocks are projected to decrease by 8% to 20.4 million tons, which represents about 86% of world cotton consumption in 2015/16. This is the first reduction in world ending stocks since 2009/10. China’s ending stocks are forecast to decrease by 7% to 12 million tons, while ending stocks for the rest of the world are expected to decline by 9% to 8.4 million tons. However, this reduction in stocks is due to a15% decline in world cotton production, estimated at 22.2 million tons, and not to growth in consumption. In fact, world cotton consumption is projected to decrease by 2% to 23.9 million tons. As discussed last month, low prices for polyester, the main competing fiber, has hurt world cotton consumption in 2015/16. Cotton consumption in China, the world’s largest consumer, has declined continuously since 2009/10 when it reached just over 10 million tons. In 2015/16, cotton consumption in China is forecast at 7.1 million tons, down 5% from last season. India’s cotton consumption is expected to decline by 2% to 5.3 million tons. Cotton consumption in Pakistan is projected to decrease by 12% to 2.2 million tons due to weakened demand from China and the low volume of cotton production this season keeping domestic cotton prices firm. In contrast, consumption in Vietnam may increase by 22% to 1.1 million tons in 2015/16 as China continues to invest in spinning mills there. Bangladesh’s mill use is forecast to expand by 13% to 1.1 million tons. In 2016/17, world cotton consumption is projected to remain stable as modest growth in the top consumers outside of China offsets the decline in China’s cotton consumption. Aside from Australia where production is forecast to increase by 6% to 546,000 tons, cotton production in the top 10 cotton producing countries all declined in 2015/16. World cotton area contracted by 8% to 31.2 million hectares as low cotton prices in 2014/15 and higher prices for competing crops discouraged farmers from planting cotton. Adverse weather in many countries led to the world average yield decreasing by 7% to 711 kg/ha. India’s cotton production fell by 7% to just under 6 million tons. Production in China decreased for the fourth consecutive season by 20% to 5.2 million tons. A large contraction in cotton area and reduced yields led production in the United States to decrease by 21% to 2.8 million tons. Pakistan’s production is estimated down 34% to 1.5 million tons due to pest pressure and inferior inputs lowering yields. In 2016/17, poor returns for competing crops and relatively stable cotton prices may encourage farmers to plant more cotton, and cotton area may expand by 1% to 31.9 million hectares. Modest increases in cotton area in India, Pakistan and the United States are expected to offset losses in China, Brazil and Uzbekistan. World cotton production is projected to increase by 3% to 23 million tons in 2016/17. In 2015/16, world cotton imports are likely to decrease by 3% to 7.4 million tons with imports by Vietnam, Bangladesh and China all projected at 1.1 million tons each. This represents 44% of world imports. The United States will lead in cotton exports despite reducing export volume by 12% to 2.1 million tons. India’s exports are expected to recover by 22% to 1.1 million tons. In 2016/17, world trade

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March 2016


COTTON REPORT may increase 3% to 7.6 million tons. SIMA: Southern India Mills’ Association, representing textile mills in the State, has asked the State Government to reduce power tariff for high tension consumers, and consider separate tariff for textile industry. Association said that since prices of coal, Furnace oil and of HSD (High Speed Diesel) oil have declined, the power tariff should be reduced. The industries will be competitive only if power is available at lower cost.

ICE Cotton is taking supports close to 57 as anticipated and conveyed in past. Though trading weak below all key short term moving averages, there are signs to suggest that ICE futures may again take support around 57 areas. Directional trend is only possible on a weekly close outside the key range of 57-68. Till the time breakout or breakdown comes from this 57-68 range, traders can sell closer to 68 with stops and buy closer to 57 with stops for short to medium term. Key Supports 56.95-54.97-54.00-52.28, Key Resistances 60.85-62.93-65.23-68.30.

2.

MCX COTTON

Maharashtra can be textile hub: CM

Maharashtra contributes to about 11.4 % to India’s textiles and apparel output and is the second largest employer in Maharashtra and contributes to 28 % of India’s total exports. The Textile Policy of Maharashtra 2011 - 17 emphasizes establishing processing units at various levels for the assured long term development, expansion of the textile industry and growth of employment in the State. 1. ICE COTTON:

MCX Cotton Futures are also trending weak below all short term moving averages; inline with ICE futures. Cotton has immediate support around 15500 areas, if held for current week, retest of 16700 areas again is most likely in short term. As & when 1670016900 hurdle is crossed, sharp 2000 rupee bounce is on the cards. Similarly crack below 15300 would be very bearish for test of 14360 or lower. Key Supports 15530-15350-14750-14360, Key Resistances 16190-16380-16710-16890.

SURAT REPORT • FORM IV 1. Place of publication : 2.

Textile and Garment technology fair, displayed machines are Embroidery, high speed weaving, digital textile, processing, yarn predatory machine, spare parts etc category.

Mumbai

Periodicity of its publication : Monthly

3. Printer’s Name: Nationality: Address:

Impression Graphics Indian Gala No. 13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Shivai Industrial Estate, Behind McDonald, Andheri – KurlaRoad,Andheri (East), Mumbai- 400072, Maharashtra, INDIA.

4. Publisher’s Name: Nationality: Address:

Ms. Jigna Shah Indian 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar(East), Mumbai- 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA.

5. Editor’s Name Nationality Address

Ms. Jigna Shah Indian 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar(East), Mumbai- 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA.

6.

Names and addresses of individuals who own the newspaper and partners or shareholders holding more than one per cent of the total capital.: N.A.

I, Jigna Shah hereby declare that the particulars given above are true to the best of my Knowledge and belief. Date: 1st April,2016 2015. Date: 1stMarch

March 2016

In 3 weeks 3 big shows in Surat ie. Garfab ,SITEX 2016, SITME 2016.

Signature of Publisher

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• Embroidery patch work and Lace in demand in sarees. Surat traders got orders from Punjab, Delhi, Rajasthan, Haryana. Not good wedding season, for summer season soft / pastel colours in demand. 60gms soft polyester, georgette, shiffon, net fabrics, dyed, printed fabrics, Printed, sibori, tie and tie is in demand. Sarees with pastle colour & dark colour blouse in demand which is selling at Rs. 500/700 to Rs. 1500/2000. Surat traders are not working without catalog, as retailer asking for 12- 16 set of catalog. • Central government reduced custom duty from 5% to 2.5 %. So imported fibers, Fabrics will be in demand, importing fabric and exporting garments / made ups will be highly beneficial to exporters. But this will affect domestic fiber, yarn and fabric manufacturer/ suppliers. • Central government levied duties on synthetic fibers. But who makes the PSF & PFY through waste plastics, they are also into radar. If company takes CEN VAT then its 12.5 % excise duty (previously only 6%) , if not taking CEN VAT then only 2% duty. • Readymade garments & made ups price in bulk increased from 30% to 60% • Synthetic yarn price increase, in 3 weeks Filament yarn price increased by Rs. 22. POY & PTY increased by Rs. 2. Nylon FDY increased by Rs. 3/ kg. Crimp yarn denier increased by Rs. 12 to 15. Main reason for increase prices are supply and demand gap, weavers are in tension. • Local market business low, payment issue, Grey fabric manufactures now keeping 2 days holiday as less work, less workers. Few industrial working only day shift, few closed down and declared vacation for some time, as grey fabric demand is really reduced.

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SYNTHETIC YARN REPORT

YnFX Monthly Pricewatch Report

Crude Oil & Naphtha

Crude oil prices fell in February as investors cashed out big profits after a rally driven by disruptions to crude supplies and Wall Street’s gains from US economic data. The release of US oil rig data from Baker Hughes showed the US oil rig count at its lowest since December 2009 after ten straight weeks of declines which failed to lift crude prices. A slide in the US equity markets, which for weeks been moving in tandem withoil, also weighed on crude. Traders believed the market had bottomed on talk that OPEC was planning to reign in production. US crude prices fell 3.9% on the month while Brent was up 4.4% as compared to previous month’s average. US Futures averaged US$30.42 a barrel, down US$1.23 from January and Brent averaged US$32.30, up US$1.37 on the month. Poor demand for naphtha as a gasoline blendstock, and weak crude

prices weighed on the Asian naphtha market. The front-month naphtha east-west spread -- the premium of CFR Japan naphtha cargo swaps over the CIF NWE naphtha cargo swap -- narrowed to a fresh fourmonth low of US$20 a ton. For February, spot naphtha prices were down 7.1% to average US$321.66 a ton CFR Japan.

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Polyester Chain ‐ Ethylene & Paraxylene Ethylene prices in Asia declined in February amid mute trading activity as demand was lustreless since most of NE Asia was on holiday during the first half of the month. In Europe, spot ethylene prices declined sharply on the week as contract price for March was settled lower on the month. In US, ethylene spot climbed despite ExxonMobil bringing up its 820,000 ton a year ethylene complex in Beaumont, Texas. Prices averaged US$927.75-929.75 a ton CFR SE Asia, down 7% from January while European spot declined 5.4% to average Euro740.75-744.75 a ton FD NWE. US spot prices were up 11.3% to US cents 19.69- 20.19 per pound FD USG. Paraxylene prices in Asian markets rose in February amid bullish demand although May PTA futures in China fell amid Sinopec’s March contract price nomination. In US, paraxylene February contract was settled lower while spot was higher behind Asia gains. In Europe, spot paraxylene was up on the month assessed at Asian netback. Asian marker, the CFR China averaged US$737.79-738.54 a ton, up 2.4% from last month while European paraxylene climbed 1.9% to US$639.75 a ton FOB Rotterdam. In US, spot paraxylene was assessed at US$660 a ton FOB USG, up 2.3% on the month.

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March 2016


Polyester Chain � MEG, PTA & PET Chip MEG prices moved up in Asian markets in February due to continued supply tightness and upcoming plant maintenance. European MEG prices dipped amid stable demand. In US, MEG price inched up on expectation of demand rebounding in March. MEG prices averaged US$637.25-641.00 a ton FOB SE Asia, up 10.8% in February while European spot was at Euro650 a ton NWE FCA, down 3.7% from January. US spot was at US cents 26.50-27.50 per pound FOB USG, up 3.8% on the month. PTA prices in Asian markets rose on the month on bullish sentiment and rising end-user buying interest. Five PTA units had started maintenance during the month,which also lead to price rise. Prices averaged US$561.25-564.00 a ton CFR China, up 2.3% from January while European price was at Euro625 a ton FD NWE, inched up 0.5% on the month. Polyester chip markets trended upward, however, the markets remained ranged bound, with some offers and discussions hiking slightly. Super bright chip markets mirrored the trend in semi dull chip market with offers rising on the month. Offers for semi dull chips up 1.8% to US$832-852 a ton and super bright chip rose 2.5% to US$850-867 a ton from January.

March 2016

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Polyester Chain - PFY & PSF

Polyester filament yarn prices in February edged up in China amid short-covering demand and selling indications were raised higher for some specs of DTYs, FDYs and POYs. In India, trades for POY were stagnated, and were unfavorable given poor demand. In Pakistan, DTY upticks were stifled by weak terminal demand, and downstream purchased raw materials on rigid demand on tight fund availability. In China, POY 75/72 prices were at US$1.03-1.04 a kg, up US cent 1 in Shengze while Indian POY 130/34 prices were down US cent 1 at US$1.21 a kg. In Pakistan, 300/96 DTY prices were pegged at US$0.62-0.71 a pound. Polyester staplefibre prices in February moved up slightly in China together with a rebound on international crude oil values. In India, PSF prices slid amid dull trading activity during the month. In Pakistan, transactions were lukewarm in PSF markets and local prices declined on the month. In China, 1.4D PSF was at US$0.95-0.96 a kg, up US cent 1 from January. In India, 1.2D PSF prices were at US$1.08 per kg, down US cent 1 on the month. In Pakistan, prices in Karachi were at US$1.02-1.04 a kg, losing US cents 2 from previous month.

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MARKET REPORT

Govt. announces package, processing units in operation mode but textile sector in red

Mr. Aleem Faizee Malegaon: The textile industry was literally on fire especially after the green tribunal lifted, though conditionally, the ban on processing units of Rajasthan, and Maharashtra government announced the much awaited package for self-financed newly established textile units. However, the market frenzy proved short lived as the industry, already under recession since last more than one and half years, dived to new low due to the fresh wave of uncertainty in the local and global markets, and absence of clarity in government’s textile policy. The situation not only left hundreds of thousands of weavers panicked but, probably for the first time in recent history, forced weavers who were struggling to repay their bank loans to commit suicide. It was in February/April 2014 when the general elections were announced that the textile sector – largest in the country after agriculture, went into reverse gear. It was expected that situation in the market will improve once the new government will be formed. However that never happened. Situation worsened further after the National Green Tribunal imposed ban on over 700 textile processing units in Pali, Balotra and other neighboring places in Rajasthan. The result was that the textile units famous for their 24x7 culture could operate only for 3 to 4 days in a week that too with duties cut down from the regular 24 hours to 12 to 16 hours daily, leaving hundreds of thousands of laborers jobless and many weavers at the risk of going bankrupt. The textile sector showed some sort of revival in November 2015 – just a week or so before Diwali, when the National Green Tribunal conditionally lifted the ban on the operation of textile processing units in Rajasthan. The tribunal’s order followed the Maharashtra government announcing in December 2015 new measures and sops in its New Textile Policy. Along with other schemes, the government also announced 25% to 35% subsidy for newly established self-financed weaving, spinning and textile garment projects. This was a ground-breaking policy decision by the BJP-led government in Maharashtra and was in line with the demands of the industry raised with regular intervals and almost from every quarter since 2007 and from different platforms. On the expected lines the market was bullish after these two important developments taking place in quick succession. Smile returned back to the faces of power-loom weavers after one and half years. About 12 lakh power-looms in Maharashtra that were struggling to run 3 to 4 days in a week were now running in full gear and back to their 24x7 routine. The laborers found the jobs they were devoid of since February 2014. But, all this was just for about three weeks. Quite unexpectedly, the market collapsed again – this time diving to new low and leading to a situation the industry had never witnessed in the past. Probably for the first time, two weavers of Bhiwandi - Ram Lal Bhikaji Choudhary and Perveen Sadanand Saamil, committed suicide. Talking to the locals it was revealed that the two were unable to re-pay the loans they had borrowed from

42

the banks due to losses. Under continuous stress, they ended their life. What is wrong with the textile sector? “The prices of crude oil have come down from $140 per barrel to about $35/barrel. But, proportionate revision in the synthetic yarn prices is not seen. Besides this, due to anti-dumping duty the synthetic yarn prices in India are much higher as compared to China”, Former MLA of Bhiwandi and a weaver himself, Rashid Tahir Momin, said. “The government should have imposed duty on the import of fabrics from China. Instead of this the government is imposing duty on synthetic yarn. This policy is badly affecting the textile industry”, he added. “The textile industry is facing losses since about two years now. About 40% of powerloom units are closed, Most of the weavers have become bankrupt. The situation warranted immediate intervention of the government”, he said while talking to Textile Value Chain. Out of the total 22 lakhs power-looms in India, Bhiwandi alone has about 7.5 lakh powerloom. Following the 10-day strike called by the local powerloom associations last year, the Textile Commissioner Office Mumbai had sent a high level delegation to Bhiwandi. Momin said a delegation of weavers had met Textile Commissioner Dr. Kavita Gupta in February. She said her office had already sent a report based on the findings of the Regional Textile Commissioner Office drafted after its officers visited the city. She further said that appropriate and suitable action on the report was expected soon. Other reasons cited are the electricity tariff and fluctuating cotton yarn prices. The weavers say the electricity tariff is on the higher side as compared to other states, and hence the weavers in Maharashtra are unable to compete. They also say that the government should have a control over cotton-yarn prices the way it is controlling the price of the cotton.

The way‐out

Powerloom weavers and industrialists had hoped that the union government would announce some measures to tackle the alarming situation. However, they were shocked to learn that far from announcing positive measures, the government actually brought down the TUFS subsidy from the earlier 30% to 10%. Besides assurances given by Textile Commissioner Dr. Kavita Gupta, the weavers are now banking on the National Textile Policy which according to Union Textile Minister Santosh Gangwar will be out in April this year. [Aleem Faizee is founder editor of ummid.com and founder secretary of Malegaon Industries & Manufacturers Association (MIMA)]

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March 2016


TAIWAN TEXTILE

Taiwan: The Best Sourcing Center for Function‐ al & Eco-Textiles Innovation‐Sustainability‐Reliability

The Taiwanese textile industry is doing extremely well as far as manufacturing technological environmentally friendly products is concerned. It was impressed by so much technology and the environmental concern applied to production in textiles and other segments, since many textile companies also operate in other productive sectors. Most major Taiwanese companies are verticalized so that absolute control of the entire production process can be achieved to ensure that production is sustainable across all links of the chain. In Taiwan, there is a relentless pursuit for developing green textiles by incorporating functional and aesthetic fashion innovations to eco-friendly production in order to improve consumers’ lives, in addition to contributing to preserving the environment. Functionality and sustainability are today inextricably rooted in the DNA of Taiwan’s textile production chain, whether in terms of raw materials, manufacturing, processes, technology, product or the work environment.

Highlights

Further to functionality, eco-friendliness is now a textile DNA for Taiwan textile industry. Next is an introduction for the latest developments and advantages of Taiwan 7 textile innovation materials brands enterprises including Acelon, Far Eastern New Century, Formosa Chemicals & Fibre, Libolon, Yi Jinn, Zig Sheng and Singtex.

Acelon (www.acelon.com.tw)

The Lyocell produced by Acelon which is ecological and sustainable, since they are natural pulps turned into a paper paste, from where the cellulose yarn is extracted by using the so-called NMMO, which is then dissolved in the paste. AceStatic® is a fiber with electrically conductive feature by using conductive material imparted on the surface of polyester fiber through a unique fiber spinning technique. AceStatic® can reduce the dust accumulation and avoid electrostatic field effect. It is suited for anti-explosion wears, cleanroom garments, work wears, underwear and medical textiles.

Far Eastern New Century (www.fenc.com)

The latest product (New Copolymer) was selected by ISPO 2015 because it is completely different from all materials existing on the market, since it is not processed, not added to the yarn, not modified in the DMA nor mixed with any other material. It was discovered inside the polyester yarn itself. This is not the ordinary PET we know. It is a new polyester that can be created or recycled. It is 100% eco-friendly and end-to-end in the chain and the life cycle. Its main features are perspiring and drying 30% faster than an ordinary PET. Its waterproof and anti-electrostatic characteristics are superior. The material energy itself keeps the body temperature. What is more interesting is that the origin of a polyester or a Bio-origin PET costs the same production-wise.

Libolon (www.libolon.com)

Libolon(a label owned by Lealea/Li Peng) created a unique Ecoflying recycle system to produce recycled PET bottle polyester fiber RePET® and solution dyed nylon fiber Ecoya®. Libolon is the first company in Taiwan to obtain GRS (Global Recycle Standard) certification. It produces polyester chips by using recycled fabrics to create new high-quality polyester yarns with innovative properties, including yarns giving rise to flame retardants fabrics to the textile and plastic industries.

Singtex (www.singtex.com)

The philosophy is generating business with awareness, respecting the human being. In 2004, it started to devote to sustainability, which is today a synonymous with innovation, and created the S.Café® brand. A coffee polyester yarn has the characteristic of heating up and being autothermal. Mixing the “Ice Coffee” polyamide nylon with crystal powder has the function of quickly cooling off and lowering the temperature by 1 to 2 degrees, being that the reason why it is widely used in sportswear. It dries up fast, provides UV protection, is anti-odor and windproof.

Yi Jinn (www.yijinn.com.tw)

Capitalizing on the soaring athleisure trend, Yi Jinn has zoomed in the development of functional textiles. Products like SG Stay Warm (moisture management and insulation), SG Color (environmental-friendly and energy saving PET color Yarn), SG Elastic (high shrinkage fiber) and SG TOP/NOP (spandex covering yarn), are materials ideal for athletic apparel that’s useful and fashionable

Zig Sheng (www.zigsheng.com)

Towards adapting to the market, in 2004, the Zig Sheng Innovative R & D Center was founded aims to build exclusive technologies and patent value in key markets. Based on polymer engineering and science, research and development activities focus on key technologies of engineering plastics, fiber techniques and high added value to textured yarns. The center develops products to decrease the environmental burden by reducing the use of substances harmful to the environment. Today, Zig Sheng has 3 plants installed in Taiwan, vertically integrated by working in the polyamide and nylon chain, producing chips, including filaments and yarns. It has partnered with other weaving plants and it has its own dyeing facility. Taiwan textile manufacturers are promoting sustainability, technological innovation and new functionalities textiles at TEChNOTEX 2016

Formosa Chemicals & Fibre (www.fcfc.com.tw)

The Formosa Chemicals & Fibre was founded in 1965 with the Chemical, Plastic, Textiles (Rayon fibers and Nylon fibers) and Engineering & Construction divisions. In addition to produce high wet modulus rayon fiber Formotex and high tenacity rayon fiber Tairiyon, Formosa Chemicals & Fibre also offers eco and functional yarn collection Sunylon including recycled nylon yarn and cooling nylon yarn.

March 2016

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Customers who decide in favour of a Com4® yarn licence profit from supportive Rieter marketing activities. Also this year, various actions and events are taking place.

Com4® licensees (Fig. 1)

enjoy wide support from Rieter. Already at the licence handover, the customers receive a promotion package. To obtain recognition with yarn buyers, downstream processors and apparel producers, Rieter is present at several yarn and fabric exhibitions with the Com4® stand, places advertisements in the trade press and holds yarn seminars. Promotion package supplies ideas The promotion package (Fig. 2)

and the Yarnex in Tiruppur. As in previous years, also this year there was a stand at the Texworld in Paris, France. In October there will be a stand at the Yarnexpo in Shanghai, China. The ITMA in Milan forms the grand final. Alongside the stand for machines and After Sales, Rieter is presenting the Com4® yarns in Hall 8.

Three Com4® yarn seminars

The potential of the yarns is often not recognised and is consequently not fully exploited. Without differentiation, the yarn price is frequently the deciding factor. Nevertheless, by using the „right“ yarn, the properties of the end product can significantly be influenced. How and why, that will be explained by our experts in the Com4® yarn seminar. Also in 2015, again weavers, knitters and yarn dealers as well as other parties participated in seminars in China, India and Switzerland. For licensees the seminar is free of charge.

Exclusive – Digital Spinners’ Guide for Com4® licensees

compiled for licensees contains fabric samples and end products of the various Com4® yarns, stickers and a brochure with comprehensive information about the yarns. The intention is to provide ideas for the promotion of the yarns and to help the customer to build up or extend its own promotion. Platform for licensees – five trade fairs with the Com4® stand Rieter puts the four Com4® yarns, their influence on downstream processing and typical end products in the spotlight at the trade fairs. Licensees have the opportunity here to present their products made from Com4® yarn. Moreover, Rieter actively distributes the contact data of the licensees to yarn traders, weavers, knitters and other interested parties. In this year, Rieter was respectively will be present at five various trade fairs worldwide with a Com4® yarn stand. In India, this was the Fibres & Yarn Expo in Mumbai (Fig. 3)

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Licensees receive exclusively the new digital Rieter Spinners’ Guide. This contains basic settings for the spinning processes ring, compact, rotor and air-jet spinning. The recommendations are based on extensive technological know-how. Optimal basic settings and technology parts are quickly and easily found – always depending on the end use – for different yarn counts and raw materials. The spinning mills are thus close to obtaining the optimal setting and save valuable time. The structure is logical and the Guide intuitive and therefore easy to consult. The following functionalities are available: Setting recommendations, also known as recipes, that can be specifically located by means of search criteria List of established personal favourites Complete process recommendations from bales through to end spinning machine Overview of all available technology components of the end spinning machines that have an influence on the yarn quality Helpful definitions and conversions.

New licensees appointed

In recentmonths, severalcustomershaveagainbeenpresentedwiththe Com4® Licence. Underthenewlicenseesisthefirstlicencee in Iran – KashmarModarres.D

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March 2016


DTG DIGITAL

Advanced Digital Apparel and Textile Print‐ ing Solutions

Indian Dyes Sales Corporation has been appointed as a distributor to market Australia based DTG Digitalgarment printers in India. DTG Digital has been an industry leader in direct to garment inkjet technologies for over a decade.This brand is well known globally as the leading innovator in the garment decorating industry. “The demand for DTG Digital printers is growing tremendouslyand we are very excited to have DTG Digital as a part of the Indian Dyes Sales Corporation team. The direct to garment business is ideal for T-shirt printing. A lot of orders printed on direct to garment are short run and are usually highly customized & have lot of colors. Traditional printing methods cannot easily cater for small print requirements.Even though silk screen printing still has its importance in garment printing, we want to seize this opportunity to bring in an addition to our existing portfolio. DTG Digital printers can take over on-spot printing jobs quite easily”, said Mr. Binoy Shah (CEO). Direct to garment printing is really a straightforward process. Generation of great artwork is the beginning, proper selection of print settings is second along with consistent operation of the machine, and finish the process with a quick press under your heatpress and you are ready to deliver high quality, durable, digital printed garments.DTG Digital printers have excellent ink management, brighter prints, faster production, more flexibility and easier to use without the maintenance levels currently experienced in the market.

DTG Digital offers different models, depending on size and number of platens.

DTG Viper2 Direct-to-Garment Printer: Utilizing the latest high performance piezoelectric print head technology, the DTG Viper2 is basic model and the most efficient direct to garment printer in its class. Area: XL: 615 x 415mm [x1], L: 415 x 285mm [x2], Medium: 285 x 185mm [x4] The DTG Viper2 is among the most productive direct to garment printers in the industry. The DTG exclusive 4-2-1 platen system offers you the versatility of print-

March 2016

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ing 4 smaller images, 2 standard or one oversize image without the need for purchasing multiple size platens. The printers have high printing speed and are designed for industrial use. The 4-2-1 garment pallet system is truly unique to the DTG Viper2 and prints multiple garments at a time as standard with our specialty pallet assembly with auto registration built in. Simply bring your designs from most major graphics software into our DTG RIP templates and your artwork is easily positioned with pinpoint registration (achieved via a unique conveyor garment loading system). The micro servo motor driven conveyor system produces perfect dot registration accurate to 0.017mm. DTG M-Series Direct-to-Garment printers:The industrial class DTG M-series delivers the industry’s most advanced, user friendly and precise print platform specifically designed for textile applications, giving high productivity. The M-Series is 100% flexible with a multitude of Tex Loc™ platen options for kid’s sizes through to super wide prints. The M-Series bed in standard configuration supports two standard shirts with a unique bridge to allow extra wide prints to a maximum of 610 x 450mm (24’’ x 17.7’’).

Following models are available in DTG M-Series: y

y

DTG M2 Industrial Direct-to-Garment Printer:The M2 series machine is designed with a bespoke firmware specifically created for optimal print quality at higher production speeds by adoption of greater ink droplet control and accurate placement on the garment. DTG M4 Direct-to-Garment Printer:The DTG M4 printer is the ideal production centre for high volume print requirements. It boasts the same features as the industry leading M2 but with a far larger and scalable printable field area. The standard configuration of 4 x adult platens allows an operator to adopt a”set and forget” production workflow, effectively maximising output and minimising manpower.

Big image area options are available on the M2 and M4 series with unique platen drive swap out mechanism for multiple production up to 8 T-shirts – need to print full length jeans, towels etc. Image areas 1100 x 2000mm (43’’ x 78’’) – you can configure your M-series to your market or grow into new markets and expand your profit options – It’s flexible. y DTG M6 Direct-to-Garment Printer:The DTG Digital M6 model is designed for multiple garment prints and fashion panel decoration. A dual 4 color ink system supports a wider variety of ink styles for increased textile direct applications with 3 ink solutions developed specifically for flatbed inkjet printing to textiles. The DTG Digital M6 supports common panel sixes up to 1100 x 980mm. Fabrics and cut piece as well as multiple finished garments can be decorated at just under 100 square feet per hour with the dual CMYK piezo print head with a minimum 3.5picolitre drop size for incredibly fine detail through to 48 picolitre large ink drops for rapid production with penetration.

45


SHOW CALENDAR April 2016 7-9

Fibers & Yarns Place:Mumbai/ India,

July 2016 1-3

HGH INDIA 2016 Place : Mumbai/ India,

1-3

IIGF- INDORE Place : Indore/ MP,

info : www.hghindia.com

Info : tecoya@gmail.com

8-11 SITEX Place : Surat/ India,

info : www.iigfindia.com

info : www.sgcci.in

16-17 ITF – DUBAI Place : Abu Dhabi/ UAE,

13-15 National Garment Fair Place : Mumbai/ India, info : www.cmai.in

info: www.internationaltextilefair.com

21-23 TECHNOTEX 2016 Place : Mumbai/ India,

19-21 F&A – NEW DELHI Place : New Delhi/ India, info : http://delhi.fnashow.in

info: www.technotexindia.in

25-28 The 90th textile Institute World conference Place : Pozan/ Poland,

26-28 Fashion Connect Place : Banglore/ India, info: www.fashionconnect.co.in

info : www.tiworldconference.org

27-28 World Cotton Outlook Place : Dhaka/ Bangladesh, info: www.worldcottonoutlook.com

27-30 2016 INDO INTER TEX Place : Jakarta/ Indonesia,

August 2016 7-9

info: www.knitshow.in

info : http://indointertex.com

May 2016 2-5

IDEA 2016 BOSTON Place : Boston, info: www.inda.org

4-5 Textile Machinery Expo Place : Ahmadabad/ Gujarat,

September 2016 7-9

SCREEN PRINT INDIA 2016 Place : Mumbai/ India, info : spi2016.screenprintindia.com

20-23

TEXFAIR 2016 Place : Coimbatore/ India, info: www.simamills.org

June 2016 31st May-2 june Hometex 2016 Place : Banglore/ India, info: www.homtex.in

1-4

2-4

HIGHTEX 2016 / ITM 2016 Place : Istanbul, info: www.hightex2016.com / www.itm2016.com.tr NONWOVEN TECH ASIA Place : Mumbai/India, info: www.nonwoventechasia.com

14-16 CHINA YIWU INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION Place : China, info : http://yiwutex.com/YIWUTEX16/Home/lang-eng Information.aspx

22-24 HEIMTEXTIL Place : New Delhi / India, info: http://heimtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com/

46

CAITME Place : Uzbekistan, info: http://www.caitme.uz

16-18 YARNEX Place : Tirupur/ India, info: www.yarnex.in

info : www.textilemachineryexpo.com

6-8

KNIT SHOW 2016 Place : Tirupur/ India,

October 2016

11-13 FILTECH 2016 Place: Cologne/ Germany, info : www.filtech.de 12-14 TECHTEXIL CHINA Place: Shanghai/ China, info: www.techtextilchina.com

18-21 IFAI EXPO 2016 Place : CHARLOTTE, NC, info : http://ifaiexpo.com

21-25 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2016 Place: Shanghai/ China, info : www.itmaasia.com

November 2016

10-12 ICTN 2016 Place : Delhi, India, info : www.textileconferenceiitd.com

23-26 YFA Place: New Delhi/ India, info: www.yfatradeshow.com

December 2016 3-8

INDIA ITME 2016 Place: Mumbai/ India, info: www.india-itme.com

www.textilevaluechain.com

March 2016


March 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

47


VISIT

TAIWAN SELECT (Booth No. 50.9) @

TECHNOTEX-2016

Date: 21-23 April, 2016 | Time: 10.00 am to 6.00 pm Venue: Hall V, Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre (BCEC), Goregaon (East), Mumbai-63

Think

TAIWAN

for Textiles –

Sustainability • Technology • Innovation Major products: Nylon 6/66 chip and performance filament, Functional fabrics, Rubber coated fabric, TPU, Non-woven, Metal accessories, Reinforced fabrics / FRP, Composites Materials,Rapid Heating & Cooling Technology and Equipment.

365.textiles.org.tw


Cover Price

36 issues

Yarn/Spinner

Rs.

Rs.

Rs.

Rs.

Rs.

Rs.


MARCH 2016 ISSUE  

BUDGET FOR R & D / INNOVATION MUST FOR INDUSTRY RESEARCH PAPERS

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