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VALUE CHAIN www.textilevaluechain.com

July - September 2014 ISSN NO.: 2278-8972

I Volume 3 I Issue 2 I Pages 60

I RNI NO.: MAHENG / 2012/43707

Days


EDITORIAL "A Government is big Enough if it gives everything you want

II

~~-.

Wither Textiles after the Budget? Amajor demand of the textile industry in the context of the Budget for 2014-2015 was that excise duty on all man-made fibres and filament yarns be reduced from 12% to 8%. In keeping with that proposal, the industry also requested for the reduction of excise duty on MMFtextilesand clothing to 8 percent. The industry has been saying that exports of MMF textiles and clothing from the country are worth US $ 6 billion, while exports of cotton textiles and clothing have touched US $ 15 billion. This is somewhat ironical, given the preference ofthe consumers the world over for synthetic and blended fabrics and clothing. Both cotton textiles and MMF textiles are manufactured on the same type of machinery and the conversion cost is also more or less the same. In such a situation, the only factor that betrays MMF textiles is that, like cotton, man -made fibres and filament yarns are not available at or near international prices. The aberration must be corrected at the earliest. To rectify the situation, and promote exports of MMF textiles and clothing, the industry has been demanding the availability of man-made fibres and filament yarns at or near international prices, through rationalization of indirect taxes. The scripts under Chapter 3 schemes are eligible for utilization for offsetting excise duty in case exporter procures the wares from domestic market, to give focused thrust for manufacturing in domestic industry. The industry had made a very reasonable request to appoint a Committee of all stakeholders to find out a solution. It seems the industry has to wait for some more time. The textile industry has not appreciated the reimposition of excise duty on re-cycled fibre. There are various dimensions to that issue. As the industry has pointed out recycling of waste plastics and pet bottles is welcome from the environmental angle. The recycling industry must be enabled to achieve an economic reward for its efforts to collect waste and do its segregation into non-biodegradable waste and biodegradable waste. The imposition of excise duty will dampen this eco-friendly activity, which is much needed in the larger interest of the society. Further, yarn and fabrics manufactured from recycled fibre are preferred by the lower strata ofthe society from the price consideration. Hence the proposal will hitthefamilies having limited income. The abolition of customs duty on specific raw materials imported for the manufacture of elastomeric yarn, which is also called spandex yarn should have been kept on hold, till the Director-General of Safeguards duty gives his report on the request of the sole manufacturer of elastomericyarn in the country to impose safeguard duty on it.

Shri V.Y. Tamhane Editorial Advisor All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Registered Office: Innovative Media and Information Co.

Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor Ms. Jigna Shah

189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai - 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel/Fax: +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

Printed & processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (E), Mumbai - 400 072, Maharashtra, India.


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10-13, December 2014 Ahmedabad

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ASSOCIATION NEWS -

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ITAMMA India's strong participation at 'INDO interTEX 2014' ITAMMA was the only Indian association that participated in the 12 th edition of 'INDO inter TEX 2014', the Indonesia International Textile and Garment Machinery & Accessories Exhibition, organized jointly by PT. Peraga Nusantara Jaya Sakti, Indonesia. The exhibition received a tremendous response from 807 exhibitors from 25 countries, including 41 Indian exhibitors. ITAMMA took 23 of its members to showcase their specialized services.

Bharat Merchant Chamber had th organized meet on 28 June, 2014 atJuggilal Podar Sabhagar, Mumbai. Chief guest was Shri Arvind Sawant , Member of Parliament from South Mumbai and Guest of honor is Shri Ashish Shelar, BJP President. The meeting was organized ro request government NO LBT. Mr. Ashish Shelar spoke II we will advocate the rights of textile businessman . they play big role in employment generation. Due to various tax many textile mills closed in Mumbai. So, he assured Mumbai will not have LBT, Octroi & No NewTax. Also, chamber requested for allotment for Plot in Bandra Kurla complex, specially for textile Merchants. Government is under consideration for same. Meeting was ended by launch of Notebook, which Bharat Merchant chamber planned to distribute to needy people.

Hindustan chamber of commerce th

arranged interactive meet on 18 June, 2014 with Shri Praveen Dixit, Director General, Anti corruption bureau

Mumbai.

In a meeting members of chamber interacted and asked their queries on corruption, how we can fight with it. He had satisfactorily answered.

~DUSTAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE ~

Anti Corruption Bureau Contact details: Toll Free: 1800222021 Landline : 022-24921212 Mobile no : +91-9930997700 ITAMMA showcased its services as well as the products of its members at Stall No,49 in Hall D2. The trend of visitors registered at ITAMMA Stall was 52.81% from Spinning, 23.59% from Weaving, 12.36% from Wet Processing, and 11.24 % were from Garment Apparel Industry & others. While the category of visitors were 8.89% of Traders/Agents interested in purchasing and selling the products, 7.87% of Owners from all fields (out of this 20% Owners were from Garment & Apparel Industry) A special 'Catalogue Display Scheme' was organized for its members who were not able to participate in the above Exhibition. Also during the exhibition, ITAMMA Logo was displayed at 23 Stalls of the Member-Exhibitors of ITAMMA. During the Exhibition among the renowned identities, Mr Rakesh Kumar Arora, First Secretary from the Indian Embassy at Indonesia, visited ITAMMA Stall & also had interaction with ITAMMA's Office Bearers & other members.

Email id : addlcpacbmumbai@mahaDolice.gov.in

ITME Society Organize GTTES Show in Mumbai

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1" GLOBAL TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY & ENGINEERING SHOW 2015 22-22 JANUARY 2015. MUMBAI-INDIA

'::~':, SINGLE WINDOW ACCESS TO TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, NEW MARKETS & CUSTOMERS

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ENGINEERING SOLUTIONS & INTERNATIONAL TRADE

GTTES • To promote post spinning sectors. Uve demo of machineries" accessories, showcase new Objectives

Organizer Booking Process

Booking Open from Forms closing on Allocation of booth

Cost

Chapters

Event Highlights

technology .. products. • Support modernization, manufacturing & investments in Textile Industry. • To create Gateway to regional markets of India • To provide access to market opportunities In India & neighboring countries, Indonesia Bangladesh, Pakistan, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Vietnam & Cambodia. India International Textile Machinery Exhibitions Society(lndia ITME Society) 34 years old Industry Body, a pioneer and largest textile machinery exhibition organizer in India. Online @ www.india-itme.com/GTTES2015

Email: gttes@india-itme.com.itme@india-jtme.com 16'" April 2014 31- July 2014 First come first serve till availability of space •

Barespace Indian exhibitor Rs.7500/- per sq. mtr + Govt. taxes as applicable Foreign exhibitor US $ 270/- sq. mtr + Govt. tax as applicable

Shell scheme Indian Exhibitor Rs. 85001- per sq. mtr + Govt. taxes as applicable Foreign exhibitor US $ 300/- per sq. mtr + Govt. taxes as applicable

• • • • • • • • • •

Weaving Machinery Pavilion Processing Machinery Pavilion Nonwoven & Technical Textiles Pavilion Digital Printing Machinery Pavilion Garment, Knitting, & Embroidery Machinery Pavilion Textile Chemical & Dyes Machinery Pavilion Fibre & Yarn Machinery Pavilion Jute Machinery Pavilion Accessories /Spare Parts/Component Pavilion Waste Water Management & Green Technology Pavilion

• •

Confirmed group buyers from Regional Textile Parks & Industrial Zones. Promoting bulk government procurement & bulk raw material procurement

• • •

B2B Meetings International trade services Technical staff interaction & recruitments.

IFor more updated news visitwww.textilevaluechain.coml TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY - SEPTEMBER 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

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CORPORATE NEWS - - - - Indian professional engineering firm with 11 the worlds to cater the growing hunger for Portescap Portescap introduces our P760 series disc magnet motor. which outperforms standard Brushless DC motors in various applications. The unique thin disc magnet motor has been optimized to deliver high torque and acceleration up to 5,000 rpm. The performance has been accomplished by combining the Disc Magnet technology with an optimization of the number of pole pairs. The Disc Magnet technology provides very low inertia while the optimization of pole pairs balances the iron losses versus the joule losses. This high speed stepper motor can deliver a boosted torque of 0.7 Nm with inertia as low as 17E-7 Kgm'. The closed loop P760 series motor offers exceptional dynamic performance to meet challenging applications where rapid changes in acceleration and direction of rotation are required in the shortest possible time. Applications that can benefit from the P760 include electronic yarn guides, medical XY tables and robotics. "Our P760 series motor has a unique multipolar design with extremely low rotor inertia. Unlike other motor technologies, the rotor does not require an additional iron structure to achieve flux variations. Closing the loop with the encoder, it is capable of exceptional accelerations which, together with a high peak speed, make this motor technology suitable for fast incremental motion." Says Anant Bhalerao - Associate

the fashion industry in the country today. Addons showcased an exclusive preview for their new collection forAutumn Winter 2014 at the event. Keeping in mind the beauty of mix and match of the outfits and the right accessories,Addons presented a wide array of the various fashion accessories like bags, shoes, earrings and neckpieces. The collection is fresh and adds to the glamour quotient and is apt for dressing up on various occasions, be it a coffee date or an official meeting. The Addons Autumn Winter collection consists a mixture of trendy colors like shades of nude, the neon hits like greens, popping pink, yellow as well the bold metallic shades that are a popular rage today. The collection is classy yet affordable, being at par with the leading international brands in the country. The designs of these accessories are chosen keeping in mind the ever increasing rage and demand for accessories by various age groups and need state for new fashion on an everyday basis. This new Autumn Winter collection st 2014 by Addons will hit the stores by 1 Week of September.

"It is a very over whelming feeling to launch our new AW14 collection at CMAI. The Addons new Autumn-Winter collection is designed based on international Fashion Trends. The brand has received a lot of appreciation in the past and customers have liked our Collection. This year we have chosen to Launch our collection at CMAI and showcase it to Leading Retailers from every part of India"says Mr. AshishSaboo, MD and CEO, AddOns Retail accessory brand.

Product Line Manager With its unique design and encoder as a standard feature, the P760 series disc magnet motors allow machine builders to

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improve overall design efficiency of their machine. As a result, these RoHS-compliant

A.T.E.-Softech tie-up for automation old textile machines

step motors are an ideal solution in textile, life science, medical, fluid handling and

Textile units can now upgrade their older textile machines with minimum investment and faster ROI! If your textile machines are in sound mechanical condition but have old controls, you now have a range of retrofits and upgrades comprising hardware and software brought to you by A.T.E. from Softech that will significantly improve the performance of these machines. Softech Controls Private Limited is a part of the renowned Cotmac group, an

industrial automation equipment. ADD'IQNS

ADD ON LAUNCHES AUTUMN WINTER COLLECTION 2014 Addons presence in the event has marked a new beginning for getting both textiles and fashion accessories to come under one roof and provide the best of both

decades of experience, a solid domestic network and a strong international presence (USA, Canada, UAE, and Singapore). In addition to retrofits and upgrades, Softech also supplies indigo dosing systems for the denim sector. Softech has carved a niche for itself in the textile industry as a total automation solution provider. A.T.E., a single window solution provider in the textile industry, has long years of experience and domain knowledge in textiles. This enables A.T.E. to give the right input to Softech to provide the right and most cost effective automation solution. In the cut-throat world of textiles, upgrading through automation is the best and most economical option to stay competitive, with several benefits: • Minimum investment • Enhances machine performance and productivity • Immediate ROI • Hassle free operation • Reduces operation time • Reduces operational cost Softech has successfully carried out the following automation projects in different machines: • Online PH/ORP monitor and control for indigo dyeing. • POY automation upgrade on Rieter winders. • Automation and drive upgradation in West Point sizing machines. • Automation and drive upgradation Morrison wet finishing denim ranges • Automation and drive upgradation M-Tec super finish machines. • Automation and drive upgradation Tepa servo jigger • Automation and drive upgradation Barmag DTY machine After tying up with Softech, A.T.E. has already bagged following orders: • JCT Ltd., Phagwara: Change of drives, Siemens PLC upgradation from S5 to S7 & entire new panel for Monforts pad dry & Benninger pad steam range. • Arvind Ltd., Ahmedabad: Monforts pad dry panel upgradation • Premier Spg. &Wvg. Mills, Coimbatore: Sucker Muller sizing iemens PLC upgradation from S5 to S7. A.T.E-Softech have a highly experienced team of engineers with deep domain knowledge in textiles and electronics to execute upgradation projects smoothly and successfully and are also committed to provide high quality services post-execution.

IFor more updated news visit:www.textilevaluechain.com I TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY - SEPTEMBER 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

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•

TECH NICAl TEXTI lE FOCUS

Artificial Turf

Technical textiles are divided into 12 segments & Sportech is one of them. Artificial Turf, a Sports accessories/functional Sportech product comes under the Sportech segment. In India, Sportech is growing rapidly & becoming popular. Artificial turf is a surfacing material used to imitate grass. It is generally used inareaswheregrass Mr. Amit Sengupta cannot grow, or in areas where grass maintenance is impossible or undesired. Artificial turf is used mainly in sports stadiums and arenas, but

Mr. Mayur Basuk

can also be found on playgrounds and in other spaces. The present article deals with the history of artificial turf and various aspects like features, components, manufacturing process, future trends & demand, scenario of artificial turf usage in India etc.

Keywords: Artificial Turf, Components, Manufacturing process, Advantages & Disadvantages, Market scenario, Future trends.

IIDNTRODUCTION Artificial turf or synthetic turf is a man-made surface manufactured from synthetic materials with appearance similar to natural grass. It is used for making world-class surfaces for playing sports (Hockey, Soccer, Baseball, Tennis, Ski and snowboard) which are normally played on grass [1]. The hockey stadiums account for most of the consumption of the artificial turf in India. It is also used in indoors or outdoors for landscaping: Rooftops, Balconies, Atriums, Home and Corporate Lawns, Hotels and Resorts, Club Houses, Airports, Jogging / Walking Tracks, Shopping Malls, Traffic Islands, Road Medians & Kid's play area etc. Synthetic grass was first introduced in the 1960s for professional sports teams, and is now widely used in all levels of sports for indoor and outdoor fields. Artificial turf is considered a safe alternative to natural grass; an arid environment or one where there is little natural light are examples, turf has no direct harmful effects to pets or children. The advantages of artificial turf are that it doesn't need water, fertilizer or mowing. It holds up to wear and tear far better than natural grass. Artificial turf can withstand significantly more use than natural grass and can therefore be used much more frequently. This allows sports ground owners to generate more income from their facilities. Turf generally lasts at least a decade. Many are dog durable and gopher proof (there are no roots to eat). It's safe for children and pets with regards to not twisting ankles in gopher holes. It's easy to clean with a hose and doesn't attract bugs and pests. It can't get grass stains and it won't have bare or brown

spots. Some artificial turf systems allow for the integration of fiber-optic fibers into the turf. This would allow for lighting or advertisements to be directly embedded in a playing surface, or runway lighting to be embedded in artificial landing surfaces for aircraft [2, 3]. However, artificial turf does have few disadvantages. It tends to get hotter than natural grass in the mid-day sun and materials on the surface don't break down as

easily.

The

production

and

transportation of artificial turf releases more greenhouse gases than the maintenance of natural turf. It will need to get replaced and disposed of in a landfill since most types cannot be recycled. Despite the advances in technology, less expensive types of artificial turf and infill still may not have as much give as grass. Several studies have shown that the artificial turfs have a higher injury rate than grass on play grounds. The new manufacturing and installation procedures have resulted in lowering of injury rates than on natural grass. Although it is still more costly than natural turf in the short term, the cost has come down as technologies have improved, making artificial turf a realistic option for homeowners today [4, 5].

[BACKGROUND HISTORY

II

Artificial turf has been manufactured since the early 1960s, and was originally produced by Chemstrand Company (later renamed Monsanto Textiles Company). It is produced using manufacturing processes similar to those used in the carpet industry. Since the 1960s, the product has been TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY - SEPTEMBER 2014

www.textilevaluechain.com

improved through new designs and better materials. The newest synthetic turf products have been chemically treated to be resistantto ultraviolet rays, and the materials have been improved to be more wear-resistant, less abrasive, and, for some applications, more similarto natural grass. In the early 1950s, the tufting process was invented. A large number of needles insert filaments offiber into afabric backing. Then a flexible adhesive like polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride is used to bind the fibers to the backing. This is the procedure used for the majority of residential and commercial carpets. A tufting machine can produce a length of carpet that is 15 ft (4.6 m) wide and more than 3 ft (1 m) long in one minute. In the early 1960s, the Ford Foundation, as part of its mission to advance human achievement, asked science and industry to develop synthetic playing surfaces for urban spaces. They hoped to give urban children year-round play areas with better play quality and more uses than the traditional concrete, asphalt, and compacted soil of small urban playgrounds. In 1964, the first installation of the new playing surface called Chem grass was installed at Moses Brown School in Providence, Rhode Island. In 1966, artificial turf was first used in professional major-league sports and gained its most famous brand name when the Astrodome was opened in Houston, Texas. By the first game ofthe 1966 season, artificial turf was installed, and the brand name Chem grass was changed to Astro Turf. Artificial turf also found its way into the applications for which it was originally conceived, and artificial turf was installed at many inner-city playgrounds. Some schools and recreation centers took advantage of artificial turfs properties to convert building roofs into "grassy" play areas. After the success ofthe Astrodome


TECHNICAL TEXTILE FOCUS • - - - - installation, the artificial turf market expanded

have simulated blades of grass supported by

resistant and pigmented to exactly match

with other manufacturers entering the field,

an infill material so the "grass" does not

the colouroftheturf.

most notably the 3M (Minnesota Mining and

compact. The resulting product is closer to the

Manufacturing) Company with its version

look and feel of grass than the older; rug-like

known as Tartan Turf. The widespread

systems. Because ofthese factors, artificial turf

crucial to the performance of turf systems.

acceptance of artificial turf also led to the

will probably continue to be a turf surface

Almost anything used as a carpet backing

boom in closed and domed stadium

option for communities, schools, and

has been used for the backing material,

construction around the world.

professional sports teams.

from jute to plastic to polyester. High

In the early 1970s, artificial turfcame under scrutiny due to safety and quality concerns. Some installations, often those done by the number of companies that sprang up to cash in on the trend, began to deteriorate. The turf would wear too quickly, seams would come apart, and the top layer would soon degrade from exposure to sunlight. Athletes and team doctors began to complain about the artificial surfaces, and blamed the turf forfriction burns and blisters. Natural turfyields to the force of a blow, but an arm or leg driven along the unyielding surface of artificial turf is more likely to be injured. Since artificial turf does not have the same cooling effects as natural turf, surface temperatures can be 30· warmer above the artificial surfaces. Baseball players claimed that a ball would bounce harder and in less predictable ways, and some soccer players claimed that the artificial surface makes the ball roll faster, directly affecting the game. However, the National Football League and the Stanford Research Institute declared in 1974that artificial turf was not a health hazard to professional football players, and its use continued to spread. In the 1990s, biological turf began to make a comeback when a marketing of nostalgia in professional sport resulted in the re-emergence of outdoor stadiums. Many

COMPONENTS OF ARTIFICIAL TURF: Basic components of artificial turf are as

III

Raw Materials:

The quality of the raw materials is

quality artificial turf uses polyester tire cord forthe backing. The fibers that make up the blades of

follows: Pile Fibre - The grass like piles are nonabrasive and soft to touch. It is made of either PP/PE or nylon/nylon 6.6, which is custom extruded into a monofilament ribbon form. The pile fibre has to allow for smooth ball roll and bounce, support nondirectional foot traction, allow for water permeability and should have the correct balance of strength, elasticity and stiffness to withstand the wear and tear of regular usage. • Backing Fabric - The material to which surface fibres are attached to form the underside of the artificial turf surface. The backing has to permit water to flow through the fabric readily. • Shock-Absorbing Foam - It provides cushioning for running or falling athletes. The foam is made of a closed-cell polymer alloy like polyurethane, typically 1/2 inch in height and perforated for vertical drainage. • Supporting Base - It supports the load placed on the entire structure, typically a 2-feet or 3- feet layer of asphalt or concrete Installation and maintenance are very crucial for the performance of Artificial Turf. For ground installations, a good quality sub-base is very important.

"grass" are made of nylon or polypropylene and can be manufactured in different ways. The nylon blades can be produced in thin sheets that are cut into strips or extruded through molds to produce fibers with a round or oval cross-section. The extruded product results in blades that feel and act more like biological grass. Cushioning systems are made from rubber compounds or from polyester foam. Rubber tires are sometimes used in the composition of the rubber base, and some of the materials used in backing can come from plastic or rubber recycling programs. The thread used to sew the pads together and also the top fabric panels has to meet the same criteria of strength, color retention, and durability as the rest of the system. Care and experience must also be applied to the selection of the adhesives used to bond all the components together.

t

TYPES OF ARTIFICIAL GRASS:

II

• Type according to infill content: (I) Unfilled: Unfilled pitches were the first type of system implemented for sport. They had short pile height, were dense in quantity and had no infill material. They

universities-responding to the nostalgia,

were often made of nylon, which meant

advances in grass biology, and the fears about

the prototypes were often tough and abrasive. Partly due to the abrasiveness,

increased risk of injury on artificial turf-began to reinstall natural turf systems. However, natural turf systems continue to require sunlight and maintenance (mowing,

watered unfilled fields were developed and

Yam Rubber Infill

have since been popular for elite levels of

Asphalt Sub Base

Fig 1: Components of Artificial Turf

watering, fertilizing, aerating), and the surface

The pile fibres are knitted directly into the

may deteriorate in heavy rain. Artificial turf

backing using flat-bed Raschel knitting

offers a surface that is nearly maintenance-

machines which are between 4.5 m to 5 m

free, does not require sunlight, and has a

wide to form a mechanically strong and

drainage system. Recent developments in the

stable structure. The sewing threads which

artificial turf industry are newsystemsthat

are used are high-strength, weather TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY - SEPTEMBER 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

hockey. The water is applied through an irrigation system to the surface immediately before play, and it reduces the player-to-surface friction, modifies the speed of the hockey ball and cools the surface in hot weather. It can require a lot of water to maintain the playing characteristics, during a match ortraining


TECHNICAL TEXTILE FOCUS. give the turf its traditional green color and

1.

to protect it from the ultraviolet rays from

either concrete or compacted soil, must be

The base of the installation, which is

supplier that exactly prepares a site may have more fee - but the additional price is

the sun.

leveled by a bulldozer and then smoothed

sound value it. Special type of sand is also

2.

After the batch has been thoroughly

by a steam roller. Uneven surfaces will still

used bnot give as much of a soften feel

blended, it is fed into a large steel mixer. The

be evident once the turf is supplied.

underneath your foot. The infill helps grip

For outdoor applications, intricate

down the turf and stops creases as well as

thick, taffy-like consistency.

drainage systems must be installed, since

provides a light barricade to make sure a

3.

The thickened liquid is then fed into an

the underlying surface can absorb little,

longer life in support of the backing. Infill is

extruder, and exits in a long, thin strand of

if any, rainwater. 3. Turf systems can be either filled or unfilled. A filled system is designed so that once it is installed; a material such as crumbled cork, rubber pellets, or sand (or a mixture) is spread over the turf and raked down in between the fibers. The material helps support the blades of fiber, and also provides a surface with some give, that feels more like the soil under a natural grass surface. Filled systems have some limitations, however. Filling material like cork may break down or the filling material can become contaminated with dirt and become compacted. In either case the blades are no longer supported. Maintenance may require removing and replacing all of the fill.

worth the funds if someone's home turf

batch is automatically mixed until it has a

material. 4.

The strands are placed on a carding

machine and spun into a loose rope. The loose ropes are pulled, straightened, and woven into yarn. The nylon yarn is then wound onto large spools. 5.

The yarn is then heated to set the

twisted shaped. 6.

Next, the yarn is taken to a tufting

machine. The yarn is put on a bar with skewers (a reel) behind the tufting machine. It is then fed through a tube leading to the tufting needle. The needle pierces the primary backing of the turf and pushes the yarn into the loop. A looper, or flat hook,

2.

seizes and release the loop of nylon while Rugby ;.

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Typical SUblayers build up'

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now a carpet of artificial turf.

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30 years. So many dealers offer warranties of 8 years or more. The majority varieties of turf have a covering to guard against UV rays and put a stop to fading. Blustery weather is not bean anxious since the turf is secured to

may decrease heat absorption [7].

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Typically 12 • 14 mm water filled artificial grass and shock pad Typical SUblayers build up'

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same time, a strong secondary backing is

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forms them into a sandwich and seals them

Typical Sublayers build up' Artificial grass surface construction

The artificial turf is then placed under heat lamps to cure the latex.

9.

suitable maintenance and potentially up to

Hockey (International)

latex onto the underside of the turf. At the

8.

artificial turf lasts more than 20 years with

Typical Sublayers build up'

The artificial turf carpet is now rolled

together.

from side to side repairs savings. Normally

55-60 mm rubber filled artificial grass and shock pad

carried out per minute. The nylon yarn is

then rolled onto a marriage roller, which

artificial lawn, the cost can be recouped

Football

and several hundred rows of stitches are

also coated with latex. Both of these are

straight deal required with artificial turf. Conversely, greater than the life of an

grass may feel warm to the feel. Certain infill 60-65 mm rubber filled artificial grass and shock _pad

is carried out by several hundred needles,

under a dispenser that spreads a coating of

demonstration. There is a considerable

SYNTHETlCSURFACESOIRECT-HIGHDENSITI

pierces the backing further on. This process

7.

playing. However, it is not value the expenditure if the artificial grass is just for

the ground. During midday straight sun, the

the needle pulls back up; the backing is shifted forward and the needle once more

gets a bunch of use, chiefly from children

The turf is fed through a machine that

Fig. 2 01

rent requirement 0 grass properties for different sports

Proper installation is vital for guarantee a

Fig 3: Installation of Artificial Turf

II[1lUALITY CONTROL

clips off any tufts that rise above its uniform

long lifespan for artificial turf. Proper

The standards for artificial turf

surface.

drainage is needed before the turf

used in football grounds are governed by

10. Then the turf is rolled into large

installation. A layer of good draining

FIFA. It specifies various ball / surface and

v/lengths and packaged. The rolls are then

collection should be laid down and

player / surface tests for these turfs and

shipped to the wholesaler.

compressed below the turf for safe

certifies as FIFA recommended 1 Star and 2

installation. The turf is roll out, super glued

Star. 1 Star is mainly for recreational,

INSTALLATION:

II

with special bonding agent at line of ground

Artificial turf installation and maintenance

community and municipal use while 2 Star

with long steel shafts. Expert installation is

is as important as its construction.

for artificial turf designed specifically for

suggested for long-lasting constancy

the playing characteristics of professional

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WASTE/RECYCLING MANAGEMENT. The least expensive and least adverse effect on the environment is when a component can be recycled into its original product, I.e. so called 'closed loop' recycling. The second best is when it can be used in another article which usually requires less demanding properties, for example face car seat fabric being recycled into backing material. Typically, recycling technologies are divided into primary; secondary, tertiary. Primary approaches involve recycling a product into its original form; secondary recycling involves melt processing a plastic product into a new product that has a lower level of physical, mechanical and/or chemical properties. Tertiary recycling involves processes such as pyrolysis and hydrolysis, which convert the plastic wastes into basic chemicals or fuels. Recycling can be divided into two types: chemical recycling and physical recycling. The principle of chemical recycling is to convert high molecular weight polymers into low molecular weight substances via chemical reactions. The obtained substances can be used as the reactants for preparations of other chemicals and polymers. In the case of physical recycling, manufacturing wastes and post-consumer products are reprocessed generally into new products using reclamations process or commingled plastics waste processing. Due to its simpler, cheaper and more environmental friendly process, physical recycling is more favorable than chemical recycling. _ rN vantages of Rec cling • Reducing environmental load through the efficient use of resources, energy and the recycling of used products. • Recycling include petroleum savings, greenhouse gases reduced, energy conserved. • Reduces the need for landfill space. • Reduces pressure on virgin resources. • Results in less pollution and energy savings, as fibers do not have to be tra nsported. _rRecYClingTedinolo

:

The recycling of resources can be broadly divided into thermal, material and chemical sectors. In the fiber and textile industry, thermal recycling is intended to recover heat energy generated from the incineration of fiber wastes as thermal or electrical energy. Material recycling recovers polymers from fibers or plastics, and at present, the idea of transforming polyethylene terephthalate (PET) into fibers

is most economical and widely used for practical purposes. Chemical recycling recovers monomers from waste fibers by polymer decomposition. Impurities can be easily removed from recovered monomers, so their quality will be made exactly equal to virgin monomers. Table 1: Comparison of recycling technologies Method Thennal

Sorting Not required

Material

Required

Chemical Required

Energy recovery • Electric power • Local heating Fiber or plastics

Efficient cecOvel)' system

Aoy products

Economical recovery technologies

compressing~~perknife -fI?Jl'\.

-----+

Feed~elt Fixed bottom/~~) kn~e . -

granulate can also be used to produce fibres Important characteristics for the workability of the granulates are sufficient melt

I

6.1 Non woven recycling process for reclaimed fibres [5] Step - I cutting of non woven waste in to pieces. The following figure no.2 describes the basic cutting machine principle.

-Elf

polypropylene, polyamide, polyester etc. can be processed on agglomeration plants

(generally, for lower-value application).

Proper applicatioos

Rec:Vchn"JfotNorBVoven s]I

All the type of non woven waste from thermoplastic fibres such as polyethylene,

so as to make free-flowing granulates. The

Remark

Applied for

6.2 Re-granulation from non woven textiles

viscosity, bulk density and flow ability. They can be used as heavy-insulation layers (sprinkled onto or sintered onto the backs of molded parts or floor covering) or as a powdery binder agent to substitute phenolic resin when producing thermally bonded nonwovens and mats. The re-

Ou~et

granulation machines employ the principles

G

( )

of grinding rapidly, agitating continuously,

Fig 2: Cutting machine

milling and fractioning to be heated with

Step 2- processing of this cut pieces in to tearing machine to get reclaimed fibres

produces granules from waste materials and

multi-knives and cooling and contracting. It angle materials such as the plastics film, filament. Ribbons, pieces, soft plastic pipes, foaming materials, and degrading materials, and puts then into reproduction. It is the latest ideal granulating equipment to

neps,

unopen"dpieclIs, non-textile parts

recycle thermoplastics textiles and

Fig 3: Tearing machine and pin coated tearing cylinder

reproduce. [6]

Com osite:J'.ecyj;ling

,_

Fiber reinforced composite materials have enormous potential in the construction, transport and wind energy sectors because of their durability, light weight and ability to be manufactured in complex shapes. The steady increase in the use of composites has brought benefits in

Fibre:oust. hart fibres

many areas. Several research projects have

Fig.4: Reclaim fibres with different lengths

6.1.2 Use of reclaimed fibres in technical textile Table 2: Use of reclaimed fibres inTechnical Textile. [5) Use of reclaimed libres in

recycling material in new existing applications. In most cases this will be glass

Required libre quality JYpesof polymer

Fineness

Strenghl

Lenghl

*

*

Colour

Protection against Erosio

Geotextiles Uphostery Wipes

* * * * *

GFRP/CFRP (glass/ carbon fibre reinforced

* * * (Crimp) *

*

fibre reinforced polyester and carbon fibre reinforced epoxy, and will be referred to as

Reinforcement (plastic, Concrete)

been carried out to develop recycling processes and seek ways of effectively using

* * *

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polymers) there are also thermoset composites using aramid, natural and other fibres, but volumes are currently small in comparison with glass and carbon. [7]


WASTE/RECYCLING MANAGEMENT

Recycling methods for composites

insulation, GFRP recyclate in roofing products, In molding compounds for automotive products and

8.1 Mechanical grinding

Pyrolysis-recovered glass fibres bound with polypropylene to form insulation slabs.

GFRP recycling has tended to focus on

Recycling of garments

mechanical grinding of the cured composite

10.1 Used Clothing Markets: Recovery from the waste stream includes re-use of a product in its

material. After suitable size reduction, the

original form; the largest volume of goods is sorted for second hand clothing markets. [1]

materials are ground in a hammer mill or similar

10.2 Conversion to new products

and graded into different fractions. [7]

Two categories of conversion to new products

8.2 Pyrolysis

will be used here. [1] i) Breakdown offabric to fiber

Many of the CFRP recycling projects have centered around a partial pyrolysis process,

Shoddy (from knits) and Mungo (from woven

where the resin matrix is burned off with limited

garments) are terms for the breakdown of fabric

oxygen. Carbon fibres processed in this way

to fiber through cutting, shredding,

retain 90% or more of their original mechanical

carding, and other mechanical processes. The

properties. This

fiber is then re-engineered into value-added

process

has been Fig.S clothing's are sorted for second hand clothing market

commercialized by recycled carbon fibre (RCF). Variants of pyrolysis have been trailed in several

products. Thesevalue-added products include stuffing, automotive components, and carpet underlay's,

places around the world for both glass and

building materials such as insulation and roofing felt, and low-end blankets.

carbon fibre composites. A pyrolysis process for

Ii) Re-design of used clothing.

GFRP recycling was developed at the University

The other category for conversion to new products is the actual re-design of used clothing. Current

of Leeds in a method where the fluid pyrolysis

fashion trends are reflected by a team of young designers who use and customize second-hand

products can be used as fuel.

clothes fora chain of specialty vintage c10thingst

8.3 Fluidised bed

10.3 Wiping and polishing cloths

This process was developed at Nottingham

Clothing that has seen the end of its useful life as such may be turned into wiping or polishing

University and involves feeding scrap composite

cloths for industrial use. T-shirts are a primary source forthis category because the cotton fiber makes an

pieces, reduced to about 25 mm, into a bed of

absorbent rag and polishing cloth.

sand. [7] The sand is fluidized with a stream of hot

Summary of major textile regcling oj)j)ortunities

0

air at 450-550 C .The polymer breaks down and

Table3: Summary of major textile recycling opportunities [4]

vaporizes, releasing the fibres and filler which are

Product! process

carried out in the gas stream. The fibres and filler

Textile fibre reinforce concrete

are separated out, and the resin products are fully oxidized in a combustion chamber, where the

Soil reinforcement

heat energy can be recovered. This process can Non load bearing com.posites

tensile strength but retain their stiffness if processed at 450°C, which is sufficient to remove

Filtration systems

polyester resin. At higher temperatures more

Acoustics insulation

strength is lost. Carbon fibres show strength loss

Building insulation

consum.er carpet requires cleaning and separating. Only applicable to waste polypropylene and nylon fibre.

Concrete structures are genem11y long lasting and can be recycled for hardcore

Certain standards throughout the world will not allow the High volum.c, low added value. Any use ofpost-consum.er waste product to be used in waste carpet product fibre can be used.

Lack ofinvesbnent in R&D. Glass fibre reinforcem.ent

Possibly cost-effective in markets where mechanical and physical properties not as stringent as for load-bearing composites The market is price sensitive and only lower value products Easily adapted nonwoven structures are would be acceptable. unless functionality could be improved possible. A wide variety of products could be develoned. Less reliance on virgin fibres. Granulation of PVC product Reasonably large m.arket.

still com.petitive on cost.

Requires the continuous availability of recyclate.

for epoxy resin), retaining original stiffness. A

Horticultural matting

Risk assessment for human health and environmental impact. Potentially large volume. Existing market Specification within green roof system.. Low cost of many for certain recycled textiles. Potential to existing systems. improve performance and added value to recycled textile.

Com.posting

Environmental benefits versus recycling are not quantified. Confusion between compostable and recyclable products by consumers.

particular advantage ofthe fluidized bed process is that it is very tolerant of mixed and contaminated materials. Applications of recycled carbon and glass fibres Research has been undertaking and is ongoing to assess feasibility of applying composite recyclate in a wide variety of applications, but few application routes have

~1:;f!~~~s~~~~~pe·

~ties in the buildir!g sector. Products manufactured using recycled textiles do not require safety equipment when installing.

of about 20% when processed at 550°C (suitable

from comp.osite

Opportunities and Benefits High volume, although low added value.

geo-textile (permeable woven or non-woven fabrics used Trials have shown that shredded carpet as an integral part of a structure or system. of foundation" waste can be blended into soil with soil. and rock or similar) applications. conventional equipm.ent.

be used for both carbon and glass fibres composites. Glass fibres lose about 50% of their

Barriers Post-industrial waste in :more appropriate as post-

Potential environmental benefit at end of life.

Conclusion The environmental benefits gained from using recycled raw materials rather than virgin materials.The textile recycling industry continues to search for new viable value-added products made from used textile. Several research projects have been carried out to develop recycling processes and seek ways of effectively using recycling material in new existing applications. Acknowledgement We are very much thankful tothe institute forgiving us the permission to publish this paper.

been commercialized as yet. Recycled carbon

Reference

fibre sell recycled milled. chopped and pelletised

1. YoujiangWang, "Recycling in textiles"The Textile institute woodhead publishing limited, Cambridge England.

carbon fibres in competition with virgin fibre products. [7] Applications such as thermoplastic

2. 3. 4. S.

polymers- conductive, anti-static and reinforced, Anti-static paints and coatings, EMI shielding, Epoxy coatings in flotation modules, Composite tooling, Non-woven's, high-temperature

6. 7. 8.

Artjom Roznev, "Recycling in textiles" HAMK University ofApplied Sciences Supply Chain Management. www.texwaste-net\wasteguidewaste-management&historytypesofwaste.htm Oakdene Hollins Ltd. "Maximizing Reuse and Recycling of UK Clothing and Textiles", A research report completed forthe Departmentfor Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, October 2009 Dipl.-ing Bernd Gulich, "Textile waste management in Germany and developments in textile recycling technology" Sachsischen textilforschungsinstitut e.v. an der Technischen Universitat chemritz,Germany. Machine manual of China DaoshangGroupWenzhou Plastic MachineryCo., Ltd. "Composite recycling summery of recent research and development", Materials KTN report, September 2010 "Composite recycling and Disposal an Environmental R&D Issue", Boeing Environmental Technote, November 2003, vol.8, number4.

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ii!Z3


INTERVIEW: IMPORTANCE OF BRANDING •

- - - - - Everflow Petrofils Ltd. is manufacturer and exporter of polyester & Cotton yarn, fibre and polyester PET chips. Company motto is "Turning Waste into Wealth", follow an eco-friendly method and highly believe that waste can be converted into wealth if people really support in keeping the Globe Green.

EVERFLOW PETROFILS LTD

Q. What and how much is the importance of branding in the textile

industry?

associations and future expectations. In short, it's a promise of value to be received. This is where the playing field gets leveled. We all have the ability to effectively communicate our value and difference to create preference. The challenge is to share this in the most interesting and memorable way possible.

Ans: International trade in textiles and clothing has played an important role in the development process of many countries and has also facilitated their integration in to the world economy. The Branding oftextile product is key role in international trade because its define image of company's value.

Q. Do you think, textile Industry needs more branding, if yes, why?

Ans: Textile industry is growing day by day and also there is more competition between top most players like Adidas, Nike, Lewis and also small player and emerging player of textile industry. So every company needs branding image in the market for getting good volume business from market.

Q. What branding means to you/your company? How it is importance in marketing your products? Ans: Branding is one of the most important aspects of any business, large or small, retail or B2B. An effective brand strategy gives a major edge in increasingly competitive markets. Simply put, your brand is your promise to your customer. It tells them what they can expect from your products and services, and it differentiates your offering from your competitors'. Your brand is derived from who you are, who you want to be and who people perceive you to be.

Q. What is your branding strategy, what kind of medium you use for

branding? Ans: Brand strategy is a long-term plan forthe development of a successful brand in order to achieve specific goals. A well-defined and executed brand strategy affects all aspects of a business and is directly connected to consumer needs, emotions, and competitive environments. Medium of Branding in Market:

1.

B2B marketing

2.

Advertising in Trade portal related with textile products

3.

Advertising in News paper and magazines

4.

Participation in various Exhibitions

Q. Do you think Branding is an expenses or investment? Ans: Fortunately for small businesses today, you don't have to be a corporate giant to make branding your secret weapon. It's a shortcut of beliefs and values that simplify our decision making process. It holds a position in our customer's mind based on past experiences, current

Q. Please share your experience after & before branding? Ans. Branding goes way beyond just a logo or graphic element. When you think about your brand, you really want to think about your entire customer experience...everything from your logo, your website, your

social media experiences, the way you answer the phone, to the way your customers experience your staff. When you look at this broad definition of branding, it can be a bit overwhelming to think about what is involved in your brand. In short, your brand is the way your customer perceives you. Benefits of Branding: 1. Branding promotes recognition. 2. Your brand helps set you apart from the competition. 3. Your brand tells people about your business DNA. 4. Your brand provides motivation and direction for your staff 5. A strong brand generates referrals. 6. A strong brand helps customers know what to expect 7. Your brand represents you and your promise to your customer 8. Your brand helps you create clarity and stay focused. 9. Your brand helps you connect with your customers emotionally. 10. A strong brand provides your business value. What are your future plans for your company and its growth through Branding? Ans. I would like expand our company's business in overseas market with specific brand. The objectives that a good brand will achieve include: 1. Delivers the message clearly 2. Confirms your credibility 3. Connects your target prospects emotionally 4. Motivates the buyer 5. Concretes User Loyalty Branding Strategy: Brand identity is a vital part of a business, and it should be incorporated into many key aspects and areas. 1. Company name, logo, or slogan 2. Company letterhead 3. Company forms 4. Marketing materials and advertising 5. Signage 6. Web sites 7. Uniforms 8. Promotional items such as pens and pencils, key chains, ball caps, tote bags To succeed in branding you must understand the needs and wants of your customers and prospects. You do this by integrating your brand strategies through your company at every point of public contact. Your brand resides within the hearts and minds of customers, clients, and prospects. It is the sum total of their experiences and perceptions, some of which you can influence, and some that you cannot. Q.

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE FOCUS. India's Technical Textiles Sector; Having Mixed Symptoms of Growth India's technical textile sector, which also encompasses the nonwovens and industrial textiles, persists in its story and yet prefers to remain in the grey area of production and demand really not picking up as per the expectations and 'over hype' created by the Govt departments like the office ofTextile Commissioner and Ministry of Textiles promoting and supporting this emerging sector which has been projected as 'sunrise 'for Indian textile indusry. The Present scenario and the Need: The slow lifting of recession in the EC and the USA, leading to much reduced export demand for commodity Indian textiles and apparels has seen the Indian traditional/core textile industry not making much headway in export or domestic consumption especially since last 2 years. India s total textile exports plateau at USD 32 billion mark vis a vis the targets ad expectations of $ SO billion. The import policy and see-saw of Chinas textile imports, especially for cotton and yarns, has also been playing a spoil sport for India which had diverted most of its export focus to China s import demand for cotton and yarns vis a vis the much reduced demand from the EC and the USA importing blocks which earlier consumed 60% of all textile exports. This volatility has been happening over last 2-3 years despite the Govt. extra ordinary support by providing TUF subsidy to core textile sector and also creating 3 dozen Apparel Parks across the country. Nowonderthat the thinktanks atthe Ministry and research institutions have been working furiously to promote the Technical textile sector,and shOWing with special incentives and subsidies for interest concessions and rebate on import duty etc. This has helped reduce to [ only minor extent] the import of nonwovens and technical textiles; but as not yet succeeded in a growing and stable or recurring domestic consumption of technical textiles in India from much touted industry consumers like Automobile and medical textiles. The huge imports of Disposable nonwovens into India by the major MNC like P&G ,Kimberly Clarke and Johnsons have not faced much competition from Indian nonwoven players like Ginni group having a global size 'spun lace 'type nonwoven fabric unit in State of Gujarat.The other domestic lead Cos like Supreme in west zone and Uniproducts in the north zone have played safe by feeding domestic demand for Filter and automobile industry users.They have stayed away from the disposable segment controlled by the MNCs. Over the last 2-3 years, country has also been exposed to a plethora of Seminars, technical textile Expos etc organised at rate of One per quarter by industry supporting bodies like the Ministry, the trade Chambers like FICCI, Cil and trade bodies like Messe Frankfurt.This

has certainly enhanced awareness and visibility for the product lines of both large and small to medium producers in the technical textiles domain; butthe market and the buyers could not flood in. The grey factor and cloudiness in the markets is persistent and not yet allowing the sector to grow at the publicised pace of 12% CAGR to take a share of 13-15% in all textile output of India. One key reasons is the nonclarity on the product end uses and cloudiness in substitution potential of nonwovens over traditional textiles. The Govt figures are promoting the available market size of 12-13 $ billion for the India s technical textile. However, is this the available market size in terms of product demand/consumption or is it the projected demand including import potential? This remain a major dark area and query from all industry watchers looking out for the real tangible market size specific to each category of technical textile/nonwove products. With the above background, an international level expo on technical textiles, organised in titled TECHNOTEX 2014 was 2014 by FICCIMumbai during March Federation of Indian Industries Chambers of Commerce in co operation with the Ministry of Textiles, and Govt of Maharasthra. The Expo invited active participation from Indian industry, machine suppliers and international Cos in the technical textiles field, namely Dornier, Japan, Taiwan Textile Oerlikon,Teijin of Federation and host of Chinese co s active in the nonwoven sector. The Indian Cos leading the road for technical textiles,namely Welspun group, Alok Ind group,Ginni Nonwovens,SRF Ltd and Madura Industrial Textiles group were present with showcasing of their products in both semi durable and disposable nonwoven product range. The TECHNOTEX 2014 EXPO also saw the participation of COEs-Centres of Excellence- namely SITRA, BTRA and DKTE which have been set up by the Ministry to provide technical support and product development/testing and certification services to a large range of products and especially Medical textiles, Geo textiles, others. The Road map for future: TECHNOTEX 2014 is expected to work as a step ladder for accelerating technical textiles usage and towards strengthening ,both institutional and industry buying. The Expo has providing the Road map

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and way forward to different end use segments ,as below;

Defence sector will evolve as largest consumer of protection textiles and will generate a demand of $ 960 million by 2016-17 including considerable imports, India s 'Meditex' or medical textiles sector is to grow at highest rate of 1820% to touch a level of $1030 million by 2016-17,as per estimates of Ministry of Textiles. Govts favourable policies aimed at increasing access to quality healthcare will have a positive and strong impact on technical textiles used in medical textile end uses. Indian Geotextile segment is expected to grow at a high rate of 18-20% p.a to touch a level of $200 million by 2016,as per estimates of Ministry ofTextiles.This will be riding on the sustainable GDP growth of 5-5.5% over next 3-4 years; and an increase in the investment for enhancing Infrastructure once the new Govt is in,as the consumption of Geotex products is mainly driven by new capex in infrastructure projects. the Another sunrise sector is increasing use of Technical textiles in Agri-sector where the demand is estimated to grow to $620 million by year 2017-18. With revival in demand of domestic passenger cars,and India becoming a hub for car exports by MNC Co s; the demand for Filter and felt products will go up too. The participation of some new players also showed the way forward for accelerating the usage of technical textiles in the Agriculture and sports domain.As per the Ministry, the Indian Agrotex and Sportex segments have just started on the growth path and,estimated to touch $340 min for Sportex.


â&#x20AC;˘

SYMBOLISM IN TRIBAL TEXTILES

~-----.--------~~ Mrs. Neera Barooah

Dr. Ela M. Dedhia.

Assistant Professor

Head & Associate Professor

Department of Textiles & Apparel Designing S.V.T. College of Home Science (Autonomous) S.N.D.T. Women's University, Mumbai

Department of Textiles & Fashion Technology Nirmala Niketan College of Home Science, Mumbai University

The study aimed to understand the symbolic significance of motifs and designs used in tribal textiles in the light of gradual disappearance of ethnic textiles. Tribal textile is symbolic, represent status of wearer, and impart power to the wearer or user. The study found that the way tribal people produce textiles indicate to a great deal about their belief, culture and relationship with the environment. Colour, shape, and their arrangements have different meaning. More often designs have geometrical forms. Diversity in tribal textile forms is astounding and it represents rich cultural heritage. Tribal weavers painstakingly create design on textiles for every day and occasional wear. Within the tribal societies, weaving textiles and designs on textile reveal a deep symbolic nature that encompasses their culture. It also has social implications with regards to gender and status. The study found that motifs and designs were inspired by nature, their belief and folklore.

Keywords: Symbolic, Nature, geometricalforms, culture,folklore. INTRODUCTION Over centuries, tribal textiles produced in six continents reveal mankind's highly rich skill, creativity and aesthetic sense. Hand woven textile is one of the creative products, which carries lot of significance in many tribal societies; it is symbolic, represents status of wearer, and imparts power to the wearer or user. The way tribal

organizations, language, rituals and festivals and also, through dress, ornaments, arts and crafts (Panigrahi, N., 2006:33). From the earlier times, textiles came to be associated with social and ritualistic tradition among the tribes playing a key role socio-economic life of the community. The colours, patterns and designs signify artistic property and social significance.

people produce textiles indicate to a great deal about their belief, culture and relationship with the environment (http://www.mmtimes.com/2010/timeout /536/timeout02.html). Handloom weaving as a folk art having age old features forms an integral part of the culture and tradition of the diverse ethnic groups with diverse socio-cultural background in Assam, the north eastern state of India. Hand woven textiles these tribes profile extraordinary craft of each tribe, shares weaver's skill through woven stories. Skills and techniques of craft such as weaving and folklore were handed down orally over to the next generation. The tribal culture has two aspects; the material culture consist of their habits of clothing, eating, mode of farming, etc and the non-material culture consist of their values, status and roles, language, beliefs, symbols and goals. Hence, their culture is a complex phenomenon of all these aspects. Tribal people express their cultural identity and distinctiveness through their social

REVIEW OF LITERATURE Literature review indicated few studies conducted with regards to the significance designs and motifs used in the tribal textiles. Teron, R.et.al. (2012) explored the traditional motifs and designs, its relationship with socio-religio-cultural life and dynamism of traditional knowledge in the study 'Biological motifs and designs on traditional costumes among Karbis of Assam'. The study found that motifs and designs used in their textiles are not merely a display but they are deeply associated with their social, cultural and religious life. The decorative designs used in woven textiles were influenced by the surrounding nature; certain objects of household use, which has many of which has socioreligious-cultural significance. Tuthill, E. (2012), in the research 'The Development and Symbolism in Maya Textiles' reported that within Maya societies, both ancient and current, weaving reveals a deep symbolic nature that embodies numerous aspects of culture. Not only garments play role in daily life and ceremonial purposes, weaving process is connected to certain essential TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY¡ SEPTEMBER 2014 www.lextilevaluechain.com

tenants, such as gender, class, and ethnic distinction as well as the creation myth. Textiles playa role in social class. That is why, Maya textiles must not be examined with the superficial aesthetic value, and rather the role they play in social identity. Arathoon, B. (2012), studied the symbolism in costumes worn by Maya in Guatemala. She reported that the traditional costumes worn by Maya in Guatemala, as well as weaving are integral part of every day and ceremonial life. In case of traditional costumes, the combination offeatures such as colour, material, techniques, style of the garment and the ways of wearing them echoes of the users identity, his/hr status within the community, the specific occasion he or she is involved in, like every day chores or ceremonies require special attire or to interact with god. In Mayan culture, stripes of diamonds and diagonal lines woven in the Quetzalthenaago brotherhood symbolizes the route of sun during the winter time, and that a row of stars in the same weaving can be the Milky Way. The author felt that masculine figure appear in the cloth could be rain god. The zigzag line that appears on napkin could be of serpent. Serpent is one of the most widely spread cosmological figure in Guatemalan textiles tradition. Kurane, A. (2012), in her study on 'Symbolism of Naga Handloom', aimed to understand the symbolism in Naga handloom and their significance by understanding the way textiles are made, purposes of using, the varieties and names of textiles, meaning of symbols, and changing patterns of five major Naga tribes. Nagaland handloom textiles are of high quality with superior texture. The study found that motifs and designs differ according to the tribes. The main symbols of the Nagaland textiles are the animal figures, arms and armour, currency, human head, geometrical patterns, star, moon, sun etc. The study concluded that the rich tradition of textile weaving incorporates a variety of patterns or motifs to show cultural identity, social status, education, tribe and clan differences tribal belonging, migration routes and wealth.


SYMBOLISM IN TRIBAL TEXTILES -

-

Throughout the world indigenous cultures are under threat from the forces of modernization and globalization (www.mexicantextiles.com). Textile weaving craft of different tribes in Assam is also facing the same problem. Knowledge of incorporating traditionally used motifs and designs are fast disappearing; even weaving in back-strap loom is confined to only a few elderly women (Teron, et.al: 2012). Considering the declining trend in tribal

-

-

celestial objects such as sun, moon, stars were the chief inspiration of designs of tribal textiles; along with these designs, tribal weavers also include certain abstract motifs such as crab's claw, pigeon's eye, dove's neck etc. Colour, shape, and their arrangements have different meaning. More often designs have geometrical forms. Textiles played an important role in many traditional events and ceremonies. Diamonds in different forms are characteristics oftribal design.

â&#x20AC;˘

-

Dove's neck, Chunga agar: Small pipe shape, Maoji afa agar: Shape of cat's paw, Maoji afa agar: Shape of cat's paw, Arshi plul agar: Mirror design, Butterfly: Sikri agar.

textile tradition in the region as more and more tribal people of younger generation staying away from perusing this craft of weaving, it was felt necessary to take measure for preserving the symbolic

The Dimasa is a colourful tribe having wide

meaning of the tribal designs and motifs.

range of textiles, woven in the throw shuttle and fly shuttle looms. The Dimasa designs

Hence, this study was taken up to understand the significance of motifs and designs used in tribal textiles and document tribal designs before the identity of such designs are lost.

METHODOLOGY Six tribes from Assam, namely, Bodo, Karbi, Dimasa, Mishing, Rabha and Tiwa were considered for the study. An Interview schedule was administered to twenty weavers from each of these tribes to elicit information with regards to their weaving techniques; attempts were made to obtain information on the symbolic meaning of the motifs and designs from the elderly weavers from each tribe. Results and Discussion: It was found that tribal weavers used back-strap loom, throw shuttle loom and fly shuttle looms to create inimitable woven products. In the tribal society, weaving process involve greater creativity of the weaver in the basic pattern. Different elements of nature were commonly found the tribal designs. The flora and fauna of nature included flower, creeper, seed, plant, hills, flowing water; animal forms included elephant, deer, horse, rabbit, etc.; the utilitarian item in the form of hand fan, aero-plane, button, sickle with the serrated edge, box, flower vase are frequently used, bird motifs includes peacock, parrot, kingfisher, pigeon; and

are usually geometrical in shape; they do not use stylized forms in their designs. However, there is great influence of surrounding nature in their designs. Dimasa textile is very The Bodos are a colourful tribe. Green, yellow, golden yellow are predominant colour in their costumes. According Bodo weavers, green colour signifies their closeness to the nature and golden yellow, the colour of paddy field before harvesting. The main traditional costume of Bodo women is 'Dakhana'. Various names are given depending on the colours and designs; the most traditional one is called 'Bidan', which is golden yellow in colour with thin lengthwise stripes of green and red generally woven with plain weave; however, the most auspicious one usually worn by the bride is woven with twill weave with prominent twill line at the background, which is called 'Kashi hathai agar' (sickle edged). Some notable Bodo designs are-

1. Chari bati design: The Bodos consider this diamond shaped design as their auspicious design; it is called 'Charibati' design as it requires four harnesses and four treadles to weaves this fabric. 2. Mukkardama agar: Design in the shape of court, which signifies that when a person wearing design goes to fight a case in court, he or she will return as winner. Other miscellaneous designs are: Dhinkhia Phul: The shape of 'Fern', Jong agar: Designs having points at both the ends, Pharao megan agar: Pigeon's eye, Daguthu gadu: TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY - SEPTEMBER 2014

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colourful; usually they use more than three colours. The common colours: red, yellow, green, black etc. The most frequently used designs are: Thai di bar: au Tenga flower, Dilam Patai (Pomegranate leaf), Tilam Patai (leaf of Water lily), Rudai lao, (Castor leaf), fumalai (Eri worm), Patha ramai (Parrot), Kesep (Hand fan} The other common designs are earth worm, mongoose, elephant, rabbit etc.

Karbi tribe: Karbi design

Karbi textiles belonging to both hill Karbis and plain Karbis is characterised by elegant, colourful design, which demonstrates expertise of Karbi weavers. Karbi textiles belonging to both hill Karbis and plain Karbis is characterised by elegant, colourful design, which demonstrates expertise of Karbi weavers. Majority ofthe


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SYMBOLISM IN TRIBAL TEXTILES

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textiles are woven in back-strap looms by hill Karbis. The Karbi designs and motifs are highly influenced by socio-cultural factors. Some of the prominent features from nature are birds, elephant, different flowers, hand fan, nest of monitor lizard, sun rays, bird's eye, crab's eye, back-bone of fish, different insects, colourful beetle's wing, several fruits and vegetables in varieties of geometrical forms; all such motifs are related to the socio-religious-culturallife of the Karbis. According to the Karbis, elephant symbolizes strength, butterfly symbolizes freedom and diamond motif symbolizes good fortune. Important Karbi designs Jambili Athon: The traditional design Jambili Athon has deep significance in Karbi society. Originally, it used to a woodcraft made with wood of about 4.00 meters in height consist of a central axis with four branches. At the tip of central axis, a drongo (local bird) is perched; on the four other lateral branched other varieties of drongos are perched. The significance of Jambili Athon is based on legend; according to the legend, the main drongo signifies the king and other four smaller birds are his people, whom he protects with symbolic coexistence of everyone in the kingdom. Jambili Athon is adapted as a textile design in variety of ways in different colourcombinations. Makardama design: Many of the ethnic people believe that when they wear a dresses with a particular design, ensures win in court cases. The Karbis consider the design as Markartama design to win court cases.

~ Mishing Design

The Mishings is the second largest tribe residing in Assam. The wide range of textile product reflects the mastery of Mishing weavers; it is a traditional craft, which they have been nurturing since time immemorial. The unique feature of Mishing textiles is bright colour combination, elegant designs

and motifs. The Mishing designs reveal their closeness to the nature. The chief characteristics of Mishing design is the use of geometrical shapes in the form of triangular shapes and diamonds along with bands of lines. Continuous diamond forms and waves feature very prominently in the borders of Mishing textiles. The triangular designs represent hills, which are narrow at the top and broad at the bottom. The butties, generally seen in the Indian traditional textiles are woven in Mishing textiles in the form of star or flowers, which appear all over the women's costumes. The designs generally consist of geometrical various forms of birds, deer, horse (Dumso), butterfly, and sprays of flowers, star, and trees in a number of combinations. Floral butties on black background is often compared to the night sky. Continuous diamond forms and waves feature very prominently in the borders of Mishing textiles. The colours used in Mishing textiles has significant meaning related to nature such as black represent darkness, blue represents sky, green represents green pasture of nature. Married Mishing women wear with horizontal red, white and black stripes to keep evil eyes away.

The Rabhas are one of the important tribe of Assam. The Rabha women contributed greatly towards the economy of the family. All the textile production related activities were carried out by the woman of the house. Rabha designs are generally in geometrical form, however, stylized form of designs are also not uncommon among Rabha weavers. Practically, they use all the colours but green colour appears to be more common. Some common designs of Rabha tribe are: Jeb (hand fan), Han-chur (Small hill), Goray (Horse), Parao-mukum (Pegion's eye), Berga par (Flower), Machi-par (deer), Kaudi-basar (Diamond shape), Chika-dara (Wave of water). Some other common motifs are butterfly, different varieties of birds, foot print of cat, foot print of tiger, bands of lines, triangles etc. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY - SEPTEMBER 2014

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Tiwa textiles

Like other tribes of north east India, the Tiwas are greatly influenced by the surrounding environment, which is depicted through their textile practices and designs. The dominant colours observed in the Tiwa textiles are Green, red, black, golden yellow, purple, orange, blue etc. Following are some of the motifs commonly found in the Tiwa textiles: Turomo (pigeon's eye), Pharewmo (Dove's eye), Khukrilaphli khum (Dog's footprints), Sukuri Khum (Butterfly), Phangdali Khum (Branch of tree), Kilalenggai (Climber plant having Several bend), Muikhuri (Unique design of Tiwas), Mirakrang (Peacock), Sing-kong (Imaginary Horse headed lion); other common designs include Sunflower, Weaver bird, hand fan. Conclusion: Diversity in tribal textile forms is astounding and it represents rich cultural heritage. Tribal weavers painstakingly create design on textiles for every day and occasional wear. Within the tribal societies, weavingtextiles and designs on textile reveal a deep symbolic nature that encompasses their culture. It also has social implications with regards to gender and status. The study found that motifs and designs were inspired by nature, their belief and folklore. However, the younger generation from each of the tribe were unaware of the symbolic meaning ofthe designs. References: 1.

2.

3.

4.

Kurane, A. (2013), Symbolism in Naga Handloom (Abstract), International Union of Anthropological and ethnological Sciences-2013, UK. Retrieved from http://www.iuaes2013.org/index.html Tuthill, E. (2012), The Development and Symbolism in Maya Textiles, CJA anthro Journal, Retrieved from antrojurnl.comfissuefOctober-2011 Teron, R. and Borthakur, S.K.(2012), Biological motifs and designs on traditional costumes among Karbis of Assam, Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge Vol. 11 (2), April 2012, 30S-308. Retrieved from http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/1234S6789/13861 I1/IJTK%2011(2)%2030S-308.pdf Panigrahi, N. (2006), Tribal Culture during colonial Rule, Orissa Overview, January, 2006, Retrieved from http://orissa.gov.in/emagazine/Orissareview/jan2006/engpdfaribal Cultur ~.,

S.

6. 7.

Arathoon, B., Pre-Hispanic traces in the symbolism of Maya weaving in Guatemala (n.d.). Retrieved from www.famsi.org/reports/03101l01arathoonpfd Mexican Indigenous textile project (n.d.). Retrieved from www.mexicantextiles.com Pwint. Z.P. (n.d.), In ethnic textiles, history is woven, by, Retrieved from


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POST-SHOW REPORT

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F&A TRADE SHOW & HOMTEX - 2014 RIDE HIGH ON THE CREST OF A POSITIVE BUSINESS CLIMATE It was with great expectation that companies from the fabrics, accessories, home textiles and service industries came to Bangalore, to exhibit at the Fabrics & Accessories Trade Show (F&A) and the India International Home Textile Exhibition (Homtex) 2014, South India's most important trade fairs in their respective sectors. The upturn in sentiments along with a confident business climate brought about by the election of a stable Government at the Centre, justified hopes of a good fair and brisk post show business. In fact, these expectations were actually exceeded over the three days of the expos that ended on June 1, 2014.

MrKalpeshBadani, President-RMG, Nirvan Silk Mills Pvt Ltd,Mumbai, said "This is the first time we are participating in this show. We got connected to a good number of corporates and buying houses. The footfalls were good and whoever came in here was interested in doing serious business." Mr TarunKhanna, Partner, SJK International, Amritsar, said "It was a pleasure to participate in the show. It was very well organized and the look and feel of the

event was

very fresh

and

pleasing(especially because of the green carpets). We look forward to participate in the F&A show next year. My suggestion is if you can organize a similar fabrics trade show of a bigger magnitude in Delhi/NCR region as Delhi is a HUGE market. DO give it a serious thought. All your existing customers of F&AShow Bangalore will immediately confirm their participation I am very sure so

Exhibitors reported unanimously on numerous concrete project inquiries, intense negotiations with trade visitors from throughout the world and a remarkable number of business deals, some of which were concluded instantaneously and quite a number of which were worth millions of rupees. The many innovative products and applications premiered at the F&A Show and Homtex met with great interest from trade visitors. The innovations were not just admired as many, very concrete negotiations were held and contracts were signed. Many customers are expanding their capacities and are investing in new technologies to sharpen their global competitive edge.This view was echoed and shared by the 108 exhibitors throughout all areas ofthe show. Mr K. Kanan, General Manager (Tech), VTM Limited, Madurai said "We have attended a number of fairs like this, but by far this is really good. We got good number of inquiries right from buying houses to direct customers. Our range consisted cotton gray fabrics and bed linen which we are supplying to a lot of corporate customers. Once again I would say the response has been quite good."

Sales, Raymond Ltd, "Retailers from South India visited our stall and we were able reach out to them. Homtex has been a valuable launch platform for us."

we can really make a beginning in the Delhi market also. Mr MohitChhabra, Director, A la moda Textile Co Ltd, China, said "F&A has helped me a lot to grow my business. This is a very good show and I got a very good response from the visitors. We had a lot of visitors from Bangalore, Kerala and the Chennai regions who were interested in our lace and linen fabrics."

Mr E. W. Ganns, Managing Director, Union Knopf (HK) Limited, said "The traffic and quality of visitors were very good. The show too is progressing with each edition." Leading textile manufacturer Raymond Limited, Thane, used the Homtex platform to showcase their innovations to the South India market."The scope for branded products is huge in South India," said Mr Pankaj Saxena, Deputy General Manager-

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MrLokeshOza, Director, Citizen Synthetics Pvt Ltd, Bhiwandi, said "This is the first time at Homtex and the show was very good and we are expecting a good market in this region. We met good clients and with them I hopetodevelopthis newmarket." The show attracted 3,622 visitors from all across the country; a large number from the neighbouring premiere textile producing centres like Karur, Salem, Tirupur, Madurai, Coimbatore, and Chennai amongst others. Besides the delegation from Sri Lanka, overseas visitors included those from the Middle East, Thailand, Turkey, France, Switzerland, China and Russia. Mr Walter Perera, Chairman &Managing Director, Queens Work Wear Pvt Ltd, Sri Lanka, who had come specifically for this show said he connected with a couple of companies that make twills and will be following up with them. He said "At present much of the fabrics are sourced from China and elsewhere. India is only an hour and half away from Sri Lanka and there is a lot of scope for Indian fabrics in our country." Mr. Jayasiri Silva, Managing Director, Nordtex Pvt Ltd, Sri Lanka, said "The presentation and organising of the show is excellent. It's much better than the last time I visited this show. I was able to collect a lot of information and was able to pick up good samples. We are working on the prices and if the prices work out competitive, we will definitely be placing the orders." Mr Vincent Sannet, Managing Director, V. S. Sourcing Pvt Ltd, Tirupur, said "We are abuying house exporting to Europe, especially France. The Homtex section was very interesting and I did find very interesting range of products here. I will be following up with them." On the other hand Ms Ruby Jayan George, CEO, Gokaldas Exports Ltd, Bangalore, was


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POST-SHOW REPORT looking for a particular kind of lace, like polyester 100gsm with bigger widths, and could get a couple of new suppliers at the show. "We will be taking this forward. It's forums like this where we get to meet multiple vendors and get competitive categories. This show is on its way to be world c1ass:'she said. A major highlight of the show was the Textile & Accessories Sourcing Summit 2014 - an interactive session on Sourcing Excellence and Challenges that was held on the first day of the show. Attended by over 350 industry professionals, the summit had top notch speakers like MrAtulUjagar, Country Director, Nike India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan; MrSarabjitGhose, CEO, Laguna Clothing Pvt Ltd, Bangalore; Mr Vijay Puniyani, Senior Vice President, Vardhaman Textiles Ltd, Ludhiana; MsNeetuJotwani, Director, Product Development and Sourcing (South Asia), Levi Strauss & Co., Bangalore. The event was moderated by Ms Daisy Mistri, Chairperson of Textile & Accessories Sourcing Summit who is also COO, Gokaldas Exports Ltd, Bangalore.

"The strategic shift of the venue to the Trade Centre, Karnataka Trade Promotion Organisation, Whitefield, was also appreciated by the industry, who said this yearthe level oftop management and serious buyers was very high, said Mr P. Krishnamurthy, CEO, SSTextile Media Pvt Ltd, organizers of the show.

HEIMTEXTIL INDIA SETS THE BENCHMARK FOR HOME FURNISHING AND TEXTILE INNOVATIONS Show appreciated for its strong order-generating potential Concurrent conference highlights growing opportunities in digital textile printing The debut edition of Heimtextil India - the world's most renowned home furnishing and textile trade fair, proved to be an outstanding trade platform as it completed its three-day run on 21June, 2014at Pragati Maidan with several companies closing a record number of deals on the show floor. The latest addition to the Heimtextil brand featured 113 exhibiting companies, and attracted 6525 business visitors, including architects, interior designers, project planners, retail chains and buying agents from across the nation. Recognized as a global trend-setting platform, many companies chose to present their new collections and ranges for 2014-15 at the Indian edition of the show. With the fair's strategic coupling with Ambiente India - the world's leading consumer goods show, combined with the platform's pure business-to-business structure, the event established a firm position as a sourcing destination for the domestic home fashion industry. Concurrent Conference highlights growing opportunities in digital textile printing Held concurrently with the exhibition was a one-day South Asia Digital Textile Conference which served as a catalyst for digital textile printing technology and the new revenue model it presents for traditional printers. Participants at the conference unanimously agreed that with India being the 2nd largest textile producer in the world, digital printing in textiles can provide a massive boost to textile consumption both in the domestic and export market. Speaking about the growing applications of digital printing in textiles, Mr Rana Raychoudhury, Worldwide Principal Technical Consultant (HP Large Format Production), Hewlett-Packard ltd. Said: " We participated at Heimtextil in Frankfurt, Tokyo and now in India and believe that this is the perfect meeting ground to connect with industry professionals and Educate them about the freedom that digital printing offers. Textile businesses session was well attended with a lot of questions and inputs from the audience. Even after the session a lot of people came to our stall with inquires. The home fashion industry presents a lot of creative opportunities and digital printing opens room for experimentation. Well-attended by professionals from the design consulting and production sides the conference brought Economical and technical aspects of digital textile printing to the forefront and highlighted the future road map for the industry. Mr. Deepak Arora, Senior Manager, Indi count Industries who attended the sessions remarked" high speed digital printing is the next big revolution that will lead the textile industry and the seminar was a great place to gain an understanding of what international and domestic companies are doing in this sector. The seminar gave me a good insight about the future. For further information about Heimtextil India, please visit

For further details contact:

www.heimtextil-india.in

Mr. P Krishnamurthy - CEO & Executive Director S S Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. # 1336, 11'h Main, 6'h Cross, HAL. 3'¡ Stage, Bangalore - 560 008. Tel: 25544711/41151841 Fax: 91-80-4115 1841 Mobile: +91 9845446570/9342566532/9845119893 E-mail: sstm@fnashow.in;sstm@homtex.in; sstm@textilefairsindia.com URL: www.fnashow.in; www.homtex.in: www.yarnex.in; www.texindiafair.com

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NON WOVEN TECH ASIA-2014 Non Woven Tech Asia 2014 International Exhibition and Conference witnessed 8,000+ visitors from entire India and abroad. This dynamic event on Nonwoven Industry was for all those who has stake in Nonwoven Industry.

In addition, also organized two days focused conference on Nonwoven Industry, consisting subjects like new ideas, innovative Ideas to sustain in Nonwoven Industry, Investment strategy for entrepreneur, government scheme for new players & etc.

Honorable Joint Secretary of Ministry of Textile, Government of India, Shri Sujit Gulati , lAS had inaugurated Non Woven Tech Asia 2014 on 5th June, 2014 at Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar and was kept open for the visitors for next 3 days. Also Shri Kamal Dayani, lAS, Industry Commissioner, Government of Gujarat was present as Guest of Honor. Visitors from entire country had visited the exhibition for the empowerment of the Nonwoven Industry. .

Dignitaries and Speakers Name for Non Woven Tech Asia 2014 Conference

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Mr. Rakesh Shah - Dy. General Manager, Reliance Industries Ltd. Dr. Vijay. K. Kothari - Professor, Department ofTextil Mr. AmitAgarwal-Hon. Secretary Mr. Aniket Bhute - Textile Scientist at DKTE Mr. V.S.Gaud - Textile Scientist at DKTE Mr. Munish Tyagi - Consultant & Academician for technical Textile & Nonwoven Mr. B.S.Pancholi - Marketing Head at MANTRA Mr. Pankil Patel-Scientific Officer Mr. Pradeep KulshresthaHOD,lncubation Center, ATIRA

We acknowledge the support of The National Small Industries Corporation Ltd for their exclusive help to bring more exhibitors by giving them NSIC exhibition participation scheme.

~

Non Woven Tech Asia 2014 was the part of Vibrant Gujarat Global Summit 2015. Supported by Indian Technical Textile Association (lTTA), The National Small Industries Corporation Limited (NSIC) &Industry Extension Bureau (iNDEXTb) A Government of Gujarat Organisation. Many companies had participated from our nation and abroad as well, in this International Exhibition. Non Woven Tech Asia 2014, with mainly focus on Nonwoven Industry only which was highly appreciated by visitors & invitees.

• • •• •• • • •

This year Non Woven Tech Asia 2014 had also managed buyer seller meet between industry player and exhibitors. Where, organizer has included agriculture industry, packaging industry, Hotel Industry, Spa and Beauty Industry, Hospital industry where Huge usage of products manufactured from nonwoven fabric. Organizer of the Non woven Tech Asia 2014 are hopeful to organize the same event in its next edition in September 2015.

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Mr. Sujit Gulati, lAS - Joint Secretary, ministry of Textiile, Government of India Mr. Kamal Dayani, lAS - Industrial Commissioner, Government of Gujarat Mr. P.K. Jha - Zonal General Manager (CentZone), Mr. Arun jariwala - Preseident, D~ChandanChatte~ee-

Mr. Hemil Patel-Secretary, Mr. Amar Chaphekar - Assistant Director, Office of the Textile Commissioner Mr.Anil Rajvedya-Sr. Marketing Manager, Sidwin fabric Pvt Ltd Mr. Ravishankar Gopal - Managing Consultant for Technical textile & Nonwoven

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POST SHOW REPORT - CMAI - 2014

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CMAI'S 59 NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR EXPECTED TO CREATE BUSINESS WORTH Rs. 500 CRORE INDIA'S LARGEST EVER APPAREL TRADE SHOW: 737 BRANDS DISPLAYED OVER 697 STALLS GROWTH RATE OF ORGANIZED BRANDED APPAREL INDUSTRY IS EXPECTED TO BE FASTER IN NEW GOVT. REGIME

The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) organized "India's largest Ever Apparel Trade Show th rd The 59 National Garment Fair" from 23 th June to 25 June 2014 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE Complex, Goregaon (East), Mumbai. This Fair was inaugurated by Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Hon'ble Minister rd of State for Textiles, Govt. of India on 23 June 2014. Smt Zohra Chatterji, lAS, Union Textile Secretary was the Guest of Honor. Mr. Rahul Mehta, President- The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (who is also the Vice Chairman of International Apparel Federation), stated that the fair was expected to generate a business of around Rs. 500 crore. Besides, many trade inquires were also expected to be generated which would convert into further business in nearfuture. Mr. Rahul Mehta informed that the domestic garment industry has been somewhat sluggish for the last couple of months. However, now with the Govt. firmly in place and economic sentiments turning positive, he anticipated a return to growth rate of 12% to 15% in the coming months. Exports were seeing a buoyant phase after a long time and this should continue. He anticipated a good period of growth in the next 3 to 5 years. This B2B Fair was spread over approx. 4.50 Lakh square feet, covering all the Halls at the Bombay Exhibition Centre. There were 697 Stalls displaying over 737 Brands. This was the India's Largest Ever Garment Fair held on such gigantic scale for the first time. Approx. 40,000 Retailers from all over India were expected to visit this B2B Fair. Over One lakh Invitation Cards displaying the Participating Brands in Men's wear, Women's wear & Kid's wear have been sent by the Exhibitors to their Retailers, Wholesalers, Agents & Distributors Inviting them to visit their Stall atthe Fair.

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CMAI had organized "Fashion Fiesta" - Fashion Shows on 23 June & 24 June at the 59th National Garment Fair. The USP of the last 3 Fairs, viz. the Business Networking Sessions would continue this year as well. The Total Size of Indian Apparel Industry is estimated to be around Rs. 2,00,000 Crores. Out of this, un-stitched Garments like Dhotis and Sarees constitute Rs. 50,000 Crores. The Size of the Organized Retail Sector is around Rs. 40,000 Crores. The remaining Rs. 1,10,000 Crores is the size of Un-organized Sector. The Indian Domestic Apparel Industry's size is estimated to Double within next 5 years. The Indian Apparel Export Sector is around R. 80,000 Crores. In view of the Infrastructure Issues and rising labour Costs in our competitive Countries such as Bangladesh and China, the growth in the Export Sector look brighterfor India. GIST OF TEXTLE MINISTER Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar's SPEECH AFTER INAUGURATION OF TH

CMAI'S 59 NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR IN MUMBAI ON 23"D JUNE 2014

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India's export of Textiles, Clothing & Textile products r for FY 2013-14 was US$ 40 Billion, which was expected to reach US$ 50 Billion during FY 2014-15. Labour laws in the country needs to be amended. However there is 80% unorganised labour working in textiles & clothing sector, which needs to be taken care of. nd Textiles & Clothing Sector provides 2 highest employment in India after agriculture. But owing to modernization in agriculture sector, employment opportunities has somewhat decreased, which should be taken care of by the Textiles & Clothing sector. In the world, India is second largest manufacturer & exporter of textiles & clothing after China. Mr.Gangwar stated that efforts are on to connect with neighboring countries like Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Cambodia etc. for overall improvement of business in this sector. For further information, please contact Mr. Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Director Email: cmaimumbai@gmail.com. web: www.cmai.in

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POST SHOW REPORT

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Workshed. In this scheme Government plan

MALEGAON BUYER SELLER MEET

for Textile Park, Yarn Bank & Common facility

Regional office of Textile Commissioner Navi Mumbai and Malegaon Industries & Manufacturers Association ( MIMA) organized Buyers- seller meet th th in Malegoan Dist. Nasik on 25 & 26 June, 2014 with Malegaon's 25 powerloom owners participated in the meet. Chief guest Shri Raghunath Gawade, Director General of Malegaon, inaugurated the meet. Shri S. Dombe, Asst. Director, Regional office of Textile Commissioner warmly welcomed all guests, buyers, sellers and stated the purpose of meet that to develop Malegaon industry. Shri S.R. Dhanawadkar , Deputy Director, given key note address, introduce all to the dias. Vote of thanks given by Shri Nilesh Pandya, Asst Director, Powerloom Service Center, Malegaon.

center in Malegaon. Government planning to set up new 336 mordenised powerloom. Malegaon cluster study done by NIH students, shortly report will be submitted to government.

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GOVERNMENT OF INDIA

MINISTRY OF TEXTILES

REGIONAL OFFICE OF THE TEXTILE COMMISSIONER NAVI MUMBAI

Venue: Ashwarya Mangat Karaylaya, Malegaon Camp Road,

Malegaon. Dist Nasik, Maharashtra

'J'{

Within span of 4 days this meet was organized, due to support of new textile

• not taken advantage ofTUF5 policy due to religious reason, as cant pay intrest ,

commissioner Mrs. Kiran Soni Gupta, New

as its haram in Muslim religion. But now they are planning to take advantage of

Textile Commissioner, visited Malegaon before the meet given support to weavers by financially & morally. She quoted during

same policy with Group shed scheme.

her visit that Malegaon should represent as

• Poor connectivity from city, No Railway station, No Airport, No proper Buses.

Brand or Incorporation, where special Malegaon fabric should represent in

• Malegaon Blast in year 2006 ( HinduMuslim war) resulted fear of

International market like Kanjipuram

uncertainty. No new project / outside investor are interested to invest in

sarees.

Malegaon. Cluster Report : Malegoan, textile powerloom cluster

• Poor Quality Fabric due to not modernized machines.

Mr. Vinod Chotani, founder of PDEXCIL, well connected with Malegon industry for years, visited buyer seller meet from Mumbai along with few buyers and Press / Media people, spoken on 3 things required to do marketing, as Marketing is the Biggest challenge that Malegaon people are facing. He expressed his views; 1-Maintain the Quality of cloth 2-Timely Delivery 3-Reasonable Price

which is only producing Grey fabric. Malegaon have total 7.5 Lac population in which 6 lac people had involved in weaving business. Everyday Malegaon producing 1.5 crore Meter grey fabric with no value addition like processing, garmenting etc. Malegaon have skilled and talented labour but do not have enough opportunity, direction, assistance. they lack risk taking ability, fear of none selling of fabric in the market. Weaver of Malegaon required a platform, support from value chain contributors. Currentl their market is domestic. 130 year old cluster, not developed as many other powerloom cluster in India due to following reasons

Malegon have garment training center approved by Government ie Integrted 5kill Development scheme (l5D5). But as no Garment unit in city, they are planning to open garment unit for placement of students who passed this course. Textile Ministry approved textile project of 15 Crto under scheme of Group TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY - SEPTEMBER 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

First time buyer seller meet in Malegon had given positive note and confidence to Malegaon weavers that we are not less than anybody in world, we can compete the world with times to come.


I'---E_V_EN_T_R_EP_O_R_T (POST SHOW)

TEXTILE COMMITTEE BUYER SELLER MEET - 2014, MUMBAI

Textile Committee had arranged a Buyer Seller meet & Exhibition forTextile Handloom th th industry on 8 and 9 May 2014 at Textile committee premises, Mumbai. The objective of this meet was to bridge the gap between Handloom clusters & Modern retailing, Highend Fashion Designers. A meet of was th arranged in Delhi on 11 April, 2014 where 22 exhibitors exhibited their products. Mumbai had 35 exhibitors from various clusters ie. West & South. The meet in Mumbaiwas inaugurated by Mrs. Zohra Chatterji, textile Secretary from Government of India. NTC / NHDC, CMAI were the active members who made important connection for the success of the meet. Mrs. Zohra Chatterji told Textile industry growing at the rate of 5% where as Apparel industry growing at the rate of 15- 19%. But handloom was the only industry where % is declining is declining and having negative growth. Handicraft was growing at a reasonable pace. In the weaving community 11% weavers are in Handloom, 60% weavers are in Powerloom sector, total Weavers being 43 Lacs in India. Mrs. Zohra Chatterji stated as follows in her address : It was necessary to give

( PRE SHOW)

_

incremental margin to handloom weaver to preserve tradition. Handloom is very tedious job, so to enhance the self esteem of Handloom weavers, make hand loom economically better. Weaver's service center are doing commendable job. Interface between designer, trade and Retail is very important. We need to make value added fabric which have great demand in international market. We cant kill golden egg of Indian heritage. It is necessary to structure higher wages as margin for the handloom industry. We suggest following: • Wear: more handloom clothes by Indian consumers • Creat Value: can't underestimate the potential and richness of handloom. • Bulk Orders: generating from Railway defence ministry. • Each handloom cluster should have one high-end designer who purchases the handloom fabrics. • We should have handloom week similar to Lakme Fashion Week. A few high-end designers like Krishna Mehta

commented that they are willing to associate with textile handloom c1uster, but they are facing problems Iike, lack of professionalism on the part of handloom weavers which creats apprehension about timely delivery. Besides this, the handloom weavers are not particular about work deadlines, maintainance of quality. On business visit the traders recalled to visit handloom village because lack of arrangement for night stay. The representative of NTC & Wazir Advisors realizes these problems faced by designers / so they are working for interface between handloom clusters and high-end fashion designers. Government is planning to brand Indian handloom fabrics with the brand ambassador Ms. Priyanka chopra, with a good punch line that will catch the eyes of every ii!Z!i individual.

TEXFAIR 2015 & SIMA FARM TO FINISH EXPO 2015

The Southern India Mills' Association (SIMA) representing the organised textile industry in South India is organising SIMA th Texfair 2015/ 9 edition in its series and also SIMA Farm to Finish Expo 2015/ 2'd edition in its series during January 9 - 12/ 2015 at CODISSIA Trade Fair Complex, Coimbatore. SIMA has so far successfully conducted eight Exhibitions of textile machinery, spares & accessories since 2001.The previous fairs had overwhelming response and based on the request made by the stakeholders of the event right from cotton farm to finishing and the textile machinery, spares, accessories and the different sectors of the industry, the Association has decided to conduct the events during the beginning of the next year to enable the suppliers and the users to plan their investments and renew their business. The objectives of the fair is to provide a platform for the stake holder to zero in their investments and expenses prudently, showcase their inventions and cost effective items and other products, enable the technocrats and shop floor technicians to update their knowledge on the latest technology and create an awareness on cost cutting, to encourage micro, small and medium entrepreneurs alsoto showcase their

products and get exposuretothe market. It is a highly economical Fair with excellent services, organised by the user industry, venued at Coimbatore, the Manchester of South India which is the hub for textile business in India and the fair would be an ideal platform to showcase and market the products. The Association has formally commenced th the stall booking with effect from 28 May, 2014 and the initial response is overwhelming. As part of the events, National Seminars of interests to the textile industry will be conducted. SIMA appeal to all the exhibitors to extend their valuable support and cooperation to make the event a grand success and internationally memorable one. Profile of the Participants for TEXFAIR 2015 (January 09-12, 2015) All manufacturers and suppliers of textile machinery and spares of ginning, spinning, weaving, processing, powerlooms, handlooms, knitting and garmenting • Textile testing equipments • Items relating to effluent treatment • Auxiliaryequipments •

Accessories

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY - SEPTEMBER 2014

www.textilevaluechain.com

• •

Pneumatic equipment and accessories Humidification plant and accessories

• • •

Lubricants Energy saving equipments Electrical and Electronic items

Sizing materials, dyes and chemicals

• Packaging materials • Textile software companies, etc Profile of the Participants for SIMA FARM TO FINISH EXPO 2015 (January 09-11/ 2015) • •

Cotton seed manufacturers Cotton seed technology provider

• • • • •

Ginners Syntheticfibre and filament yarn Manufacturers and suppliers Spun yarn manufacturers (Spinners) Grey and dyed fabric manufacturers

• •

Garment manufacturers Made-ups manufacturers

Technical Textile manufacturers

Retailers, etc.


YNFX MONTHLY PRICEWATCH REPORT-JULY 14 CRUDE OIL 110

, - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - , - 1,000

105 950

100 95

f------,ff----\---;f-------__+_ 900

90 850 85 800

80

-NWE ($/bbrl)

-CFR Japan ($/ton)

Crude oil US Futures gained more than US$3 a barrel in June, beginning with a solid jobs report in the US indicating economy strengthening and growing oil demand in the world's largest oil consumer. Meanwhile European Brent fell slightly as tensions were seen as easing in Ukraine. Escalating violence in Iraq had driven Brent to a nine-month high in the first week. US crude oil followed with a jump in the second week to a new nine-month high on the back of short-covering from the July futures contract expiration and expectations of higher refinery runs this summer. In the same week, Brent gave back some of its gains earlier in the week. The second fortnight saw US crude oil ending fall in successive weeks as worries over Iraqi oil shipments eased. A series of downbeat data and rise in US crude inventory raised demand concerns. US Oil futures averaged US$105.15 a barrel, up US$3.06 overthe month on the NY Mercantile Exchange. Brent crude closed up US$2.38 at $111.98 a barrel. Naphtha prices strengthened in Asian with CFR Japan values averaging US$971 a ton, up US$18 from May values.

POLYESTER CHAIN 1,500 - , - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ,

1,400

+-----=--~-=-..""""'._-------i

.81,300

+------"<--'.....----+---i

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+-----------"'..c:==--+----i

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1,200 1,100

-Korea

-Rdam

Ethylene markets were mixed with prices flat in Korea and North East and easing in South east early in the month . US spot ethylene gained as two major producers delayed start ups while May contract price rose. European ethylene spot prices also

jumped following the incident at Shell's site in Moerdijk, Netherlands. As supplies emerged in Asian ethylene price softened sharply in the second week while European prices jumped on the back of reduced availability. By the end of the month ethylene prices increased on supply tightness and the difference between North East and South East Asian markets narrowed. Paraxylene prices continued to rise throughout the month in Asian markets on active shortcovering. The month saw prices gain US$144 a ton. Upstream energy complex moderated while downstream was still stronger. There has been no contract price settlement for Asia paraxylene since February 2014 as buyers and sellers are unable to find common ground. In European and US spot paraxylene prices continued to rise tracking the sharp gains in Asia. Ethylene prices averaged US$1,348 a ton FOB Korea in June while European spot values gained US$130 a ton to averageUS$1,260 a ton FOB Rotterdam. MEG and PTA markets were stoked up by supply cuts by PTA makers which set Futures in China rising and also influencing the polyester chain. MEG came under influence of surging PTA futures, with prices rising continuously excepting in the third week, only to rebound over US$l,OOO a ton mark. European MEG sellers were ambitious following an increase in the ethylene contract price on the month. Offers were raised on higher material cost for EO production means that the price trend will be upward for MEG makers. In US, MEG market continued to remain firm and prices were assessed up on the month. Sources indicated that prices were continuing to firm ahead of higher US producer pricing being implemented. Asian MEG prices averaged US$999.50 in June, up US$83 over May. PTA prices surged US$90 to average US$970 a ton FOB Korea and US$964 a ton CFR China. PTA markets were also supported by the steep jumps in feedstock paraxylene prices. In US, there were strong indications that PTA price would move higher for June while European PTA prices were assessed higher after paraxylene contract was settled up Eur030 a ton. Polyester filament yarn markets saw a varying demand and supply atmosphere with producers in China hiking offers and traders cautious about restocking. Trading was thin during as downstream textile enterprises were running at stable rates, and showed strong resistance to higher cost due to limited orders from end users. In India, POY market was firm amid higher trading but buying interest was not strong although raw material prices were TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY路 SEPTEMBER 2014

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rising. In Pakistan, DTY prices were firming amid improved trading, and inventory level increased slightly. Procurement was mainly based on rigid demand. In China, POY 75/72 was traded at US$1.69-1.70 a kg in Shengze market, up US cents 20. Indian POY 130/34 prices were steady at INR 111.24 a kg or US$1.86 a kg. DTY 75/72 prices in Shengze were stable at US$2.08-2.10 a kg, down US cent 1. In Pakistan, DTY prices for 75/48 were slightly up at PakRs101.50-105.00 per pound, or US$2.275 a pound. In China 50/24 FDYs were down US cents 12 at US$1.75 a kg. Polyester staple fibre markets continued to firm up on strong cost support. Producers hiked offers of a few specs backed by higher cost, but received little interest from the downstream, leading to thin trading. Prices in India and Pakistan rolled over. NYLON CHAIN 4.50

1-----;::::=::;:::====:::;;1 I Nylon Filament Yarn]

4.30

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4.10

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3.90

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Continued tight supply created by production gaps pushed US spot benzene to a four-month high in June. US benzene was the highest-priced globally. This also influenced other markets in Asia, Europe and Latin American. Benzene prices in Asian markets surged tracking higher US benzene prices and rising crude oil prices amid the crisis in Iraq. The buying frenzy in the US also sent European benzene prices soaring above the US$1,400 a ton mark for the first time in more than six weeks continuously buoyed by US strength through the month. Asian benzene marker, the FOB Korea, averaged US$1,360 a ton, up US$95 over the month while US spot jumped US cents 48 to average US cents 444.45445.55 per gallon. (299 gallon = 1 ton). European spot barges were heard at US$1,338-1,339 a ton CIF ARA, up US$57 over May numbers. Caprolactum prices moved upward slightly on strong raw material market and the rise was limited by insipid demand from downstream. In China, domestic spot market prices trended upwards. The Asian caprolactum spot prices averaged US$2,2002,230 a ton in June, upUS$10-15 from last


YNFX MONTHLY PRICEWATCH REPORT-JULY 14 month. The firming of caprolactum prices combined with modest downstream demand supported conventional spinning nylon chip markets which was generally range bound for most the of month. High-speed spinning chip market showed consolidated performance while semi-dull nylon chip market was strong and bright chip market moderate. Prices for high-speed spinning nylon chips from major producers stayed stable since mid-May but saw downstream buying on a cautious mode. Plants were generally operated at modest run rate ensuing no built up in inventory. Taiwan origin chips were offered at US$2,510-2,530 a ton, rolling over from last month. In China, offers for semi-dull chips from producers were at US$2,925-2,960 a ton. Nylon filament yarn markets saw price hiking intention by producers on back offirm momentum in nylon chip market. However, nylon FDY markets saw price stable-to-firm, as high cost bolstered prices hiking though the momentum was weak given limited demand from weaving and warp-knitting sectors. Consumers purchased with caution due to lusterless demand this month. In China, semi-dull FDY70D/24F was traded at US$3.57-3.64 a kg, almost flat over the month. Nylon DTY 70D/24F was traded at 23.20-24.50 Yuan a kg (US$3.77-3.98 a kg, unchanged from last week).

up as trades were heard concluded at higher levels for June deliveries. Asian markers, FOB Korea and Japan were in the range of US$1,355-l,364 a ton up US$8 over the month. Asian acrylonitrile prices maintained their upward trend, lifted by tighter supply and boosted by strong downstream demand in the second week ofthe month. In US, acrylonitrile export prices moved slightly higher over the month. The last week saw prices flat in Far East as tight supply was balanced by cautious buying, while prices rose in Southeast Asia and South Asia due to tight supply in the region. Acrylic staple fibre markets edged up in the last week in Asia as major petrochemical producers released settlements successively. Downstream, yarn mills made purchases on a need-to basis amid a cautious stance, for the lack of any improvement in terminal demand and operating rates were relatively low. Trading sentiment tapered off as producers hiked offers. The markets were mildly buoyed

3.50

released price list, with l.5D staple fiber at a rollover, and other products up. Prices in India

2.20

and Pakistan were at a rollover. Thailand

US$l.49-2.58 a kg. In India, ASF prices were

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was traded at US$3.14 a kg.

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2.60 lViscose Staple Fibei1

Propylene markets in Asia were mixed as

2.40

prices firmed up in North Asia and were seen 2.20

weakening in Southeast on unbalanced demand supply fundamentals. Earlier in the

2.00

month, prices rose in Far East while they were steady in SE Asia as regional supply constrains continued to remain a cause of concern. In Europe, European spot price for chemical grade propylene inched up following the higher contract settlement. Prices were also supported by the hike in naphtha cost. In US, chemical grade propylene prices also inched

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while medium-length staple was at US$2.82-

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stable at US$2.90 a kg. In Pakistan, 1.2D ASF 2.70 H'---'\:=."L--"..-----""--;::..-'----

-t---------"=====[Viscose Staple Fiber]

2.40

were almost flat throughout June at around 3.10

2.60

that for bulk yarn weakened. In China, Sinopec

2.92 a kg. Offers from Taiwan for 3D bright tow

3.30

I COTTONl

Demand for solid yarn remained sluggish while

fiber was in the range of US$2.87-2.95 a kg,

i-----;:::::::::::=:::::::=::=-

mouth purchasing volumes. Earlier, some producer made tentative price hikes, but the market followed slowly. In China, with mainstream offers for the first-class VFY l20D were at US$6.01-6.26 a kg. In India, 100D bright VFY was pegged at US$6.76-6.79 a kg.

by firm propylene and acrylonitrile costs.

US$2.50 a kg CFR. In China, cotton-type staple

ACRYLIC CHAIN

boosted by production cutbacks. However, by month end the markets were bearish on the backofthinner liquidity. In China, mainstream producers pegged prices at US$l.95 a kg while discussion and trading numbers were at US$l.92-l.93 a kg. Indian VSF was steady at US$2.26-2.38 a kg. In Pakistan, 1.5D VSF were at US$2.13 a kg in the Karachi market, unchanged from previous month. Viscose filament yarn markets in Asia saw steady price movement in June, for the lack of any bullish factor. Downstream demand also lagged behind. In China, some VFY makers made tentative hikes in offers, but the downstream reaction was moderate, as buyers were reluctant to move above hand-to

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EntenngJune, viscose staple fibre makers in China made a series of production cuts while some carried out another round of price hike, in a typical slack season. Prices were stable to slightly higher in the first week TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY· SEPTEMBER 2014

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The Slide in US cotton futures that began ii early May continued into first week of June, for the fifth straight weekly loss, this time under pressure from the rolling of closely watched commodities index funds out of the spot contract and forecasts for rain in Texas. There was a marginal slide in the US Futures in the weeks to follow only to fall faster in the last week. Although there was a week-end uptrend due to improvement in demand, the Futures was down more than US cents 2 in the last week. The most-active December cotton contract on ICE Futures US closed down at US cents 74.85 per pound while Cotlook A index edged down to US cents 89.30. The East Texas and West Texas cotton were at 32 weeks low, losing US cents 3.75 on the month to US cents 73.50 per pound. The Karachi Cotton Association for two consecutive weeks reduced its spot rates by PakRs150, taking the monthly drop to PakRs50 per maund ex-


YNFX MONTHLY PRICEWATCH REPORT-JULY 14 Karachi. With monsoon evading India for the entire month of June, cotton prices rose INR100-450 per candy during the month on the back of this weakness.

SPUN YARN 400 [Polyester/Viscose Yarnl

3.50 3.00 2.50

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2.00 ~

~

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Cotton yarn markets in were fluctuating in weakness, as sellers focused on de-stocking amid dampened buying interest. Spun yarn prices movements were mixed during the month in China. While cotton yarn prices declined further, polyester yarn prices started rebounding, in tandem with the increase of polyester staple fiber prices. Derivative demand remained unfavorable for cotton yarn, leaving more bearish market outlook. In Pakistan, cotton yarn prices stopped moving, with producers looking for direction amid energy shortages. Demand was relatively supporting prices but slow offtake in the domestic and world markets was keeping the spinners cautious. In India, 30s combed cotton lost about 3.1% over the past month and later stabilized since demand remained unfavorable. In China, prices were generally stable and sellers in Shandong market offered JC32s yarn at US$4.48 a kg, and 32s yarn made from a high proportion of

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high-quality cotton at US$4.09 a kg. In Xiaoshan and Shaoxing, 32s yarn were traded at US$3.87-3.93 a kg. In India, 30s cotton combed was traded at US$ 3.57 a kg and 40s at US$3.74 a kg. In Pakistan, 30s carded was pegged at US$3.66a kgCNF. Spun polyester yarn markets were stable to higher early in the month, with prices for several products rising mildly in China. Upstream PSF markets too saw increased trading as prices surged in the first week on cost support. However, spun polyester yarn makers were not able to pass through the high cost due to limited offtake. In pricing until midJune, polyester spun yarn was costliest in Pakistan, followed by India and China. Sporadic trading continued, although gains were much smaller than PSF market. By month-end polyester yarn market witnessed slow offtake as end-use demand continued to remain poor. Heading into June, spun viscose yarn mills in China clamped down run rates, due to the busy farming season. Prices remained on the weak side due to high inventory and tight liquidity. Meanwhile, VSF prices were stable to slightly higher in China, while they rolled over in India and Pakistan. Going ahead, viscose spun yarn markets apparently entered into the slack season since order intake was poor. In Ind a, recently, viscose spinners were seen maintaining minimal operations for regular demand from buyers, who were mostly buying in small parcels. Duringthe month, the markets lacked positive factors. Blended yarn prices moved into different directions resulting from diverging trends offiber price movements. While cotton prices were mixed while polyester was up and

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HGH India, the annual trade show for Home Decor, Gifts & Houseware, including home textiles & furnishing fabrics, now in its 3rd annual edition / HGH India reveals innovations; highlight fashion, upcoming lifestyle and product trends; introduce new materials, collections, sources and brands. As consumers increasingly seek complete home solutions under one roof, categories like home textiles, home decorationand houseware are integrating into a new single category called Home. Third Edition is scheduled from August 5-7/ 2014 at the same venue in Mumbai. With HGH India's growing usefulness for players in India's domestic home market, number of visitors and exhibitors are expected to grow substantiallyoverthe second edition. Reserve HGH India 2014 dates in your diary. Be where leading Indian retailers, brands, importers, distributors & manufacturers of home textiles, home decor houseware & gifts will be present.

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY - SEPTEMBER 2014

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viscose fibre seeing stability. Demand for blended yarn stayed relatively firm in Pakistan from downstream textile producers, supporting prices at current levels at the beginning of the week. Meanwhile, polyester prices increase resulted in higher polyestercotton or polyester-viscose blended yarn prices. Spun blended yarn prices moderated in China as demand remained depressed and producers forced to lower offers. Mid-month, although weakness was sustained in cotton yarn market, demand for polyester-cotton spun yarn was relatively better. While in the cotton system, spun polyester prices begun to rise slightly, there were no signs of a rebound in polyester-cotton prices. In Pakistan, operating rates continued to fall at spinning mills and production was reduced in the northern part due to shortage of gas supply. At the close of the month, blended spun yarn producers were maintaining minimal operating rate for regular demand. Most buyers did not show interest in booking yarns for coming period as prices continued to move into different directions in line with trends in fiber prices. For More Information Contact

Ms. Vidya Vadgaokar Email: vidya@ynfx.com Tel: +91-22-66291122

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tileD


9th

EXPO LARGEST EXPO OF TEXTILE MACHINERY, ACCESSORIES & SPARES An opportunity to expose your innovations


TEXTILE PURCHASES BY AREA REPORT • The per capita consumption of textiles for year 2011 is 24.70 meters as against 23.80 meters in 2010, hence a growth of 3.78 percent. An average person's consumption of textile has increased byO.90 meter in 2011 compared to 2010. Per capita consumption

m

>-

2010

Rs.2119.41

2011

Rs.2473.64

2012

Rs.2862.87 22

23

24.70 25.93 25

26

27

• The per capita consumption of textiles for year 2012 is 25.93 meters as against 24.70 meters in 2011, hence growth of 4.98 percent. An average person's consumption of textiles has increased by 1.23 meter in 2012 compared to 2011. • The per capita purchase of all textiles is estimated to be RS.2473.64 in 2011 as against Rs. 2119.41 in 2010 An average Indian spent Rs. 354.23 more for purchasing textile items in 2011 as compared to 2010. In value terms, the growth is 19.12 percent.

Market Size

:u ~

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20.00

E

10.00

g

0.00

Urban 31.20

23.54

30.08 29.19

22.25 21.72

2011 '-'-""-=='-=-_ _----' 29881 2012 t..:.::::..::..;=:::.:.... 28000

All India 25.93 24.70 23.80

Rural

• The aggregate purchases of all textiles in value terms were Rs. 2994 billion in 2011 as compared to Rs.2513 billion in 2010, thus indicating a percent change of 19.14 over last year. • The aggregate purchases of all textiles in value terms were Rs. 3493 billion in 2012 as compared to Rs. 2994 billion in 2011, thus indicating a percent change of 16.67 over last year. • The three cities are selected from the city having population more than 20 lakh, 09 cities have been selected from the group of cities having population between 10 lakh to 20 lakh, 33 cities have been population between 3 lakh 10 ,another 59 small towns have been selected from the population between 11akh to 3 lakh. Another set of 01 towns having population less than 1lakh. In the case of rural panel centres, a total of 252 panal centres are functioning.

URBAN AREAS

t.:.=::'=":"::":':::..J

26000

40.00 30.00

Area

Quantity (metres) Value (rupees)

2010

Rs. 3807.01 in 2011, Rs. 4424.04 in 2012 as against Rs. 3291.40 in 2010.

Per Capita Purchases by Area

23.80

24

By Textile Committee

----l31636 30000

32000

Quantity (Million metres) Value (Million rupees)

• The per capita purchases of all textiles is estimated to be Rs. 2862.87 in 2012 as against Rs. 2473.64 in 2011. An average Indian spent Rs. 389.23 more for purchasing textile items in 2012 as compared to 2011. In Value terms, the gorwth is 16.69 percent in 2012.

• The average purchasing pattern of a person in urban area is reported to have increased only by 8.89 meters in 2011 & 1.2 meters in 2012. The estimated per capita purchase for urban area in year 2011 is 30.08 meters as against 29.19 meters in 2010 registering a growth of 3.05 percent. And for the year 2012 the estimated per capita purchase in 31.20 meters as against 30.08 meters in 2011 a growth of 3.72 percent. Per Capita Quantity (mtrs) Per Capital Value IRs) Market Size (Million mtrs)

• The aggregate purchases of all textiles were 29881 million meters in 2011, as compared to 28218 million meters in 2010. The aggregate consumption in quantitative terms has increased by 5.98 percent in 2011 over previous year.

2010

2011

29.19 1J

30.08

3291.40 9623

Market Size (Million Rs) 1084991

U U U

3807.01 11343 1435610

2012

U U U U

• The share of urban areas in total purchases of all textile (in quantity terms) has been 37.96 percent in 2011 & 37.50 in 2012 as compared to its share of 34.10 percent in 2010. • The share of urban areas in total purchases of all textile (in quantity terms) has been 37.96 percent in 2011 & 37.50 in 2012 as compared to its share of 34.10 percent in 2010. • The share of urban areas in total purchases of all textile (in value terms) has been 47.96 percent in 2011 & 48.15 in 2012 as compared to its share of 47.96 percent in 2010. • As per the census 2011 population, metro cities, small cities have been redefined. The difference is attributed to the above reasons.

METROPOLIS (Population more than 20 Lac) Per Capita Quant~y (mtrs) Per Capital Value (Rs) Market Size (Million mtrs)

2010

2011

2012

32.78 1J

33.781J

35.04

4169.27 1J

4837.891J 5652.78

2165 1J

42461J

4441

Market Size (Million Rs) 282857 1J

6081171J

716422

31.2 4424.04 11863

1682084

• In value terms, the growth in per capita purchases is 15.67 percent in 2011 and 16.21 percent in 2012. The per capita purchases for all textiles have increased to

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN I JULY· SEPTEMBER 2014

www.textilevaluechain.com

• The urban household textiles market is showing growth of 17.87 percent in 2011. Aggregate purchase have also increased to 11343 million meters in 2011 as compared to 9623 million meters in 2010. Aggregate purchase have also increased to 11863 million meters in 2012 as compared to 11343 million meters in 2011. Thus registering a growth of 4.58 percent. The urban market has shown a growth of 32.32 in 2011 & 17.17 in 2012 percent in value items as the aggregate purchase are to the tune of Rs. 1435610 million in 2011 & Rs. 1682084 in 2012 million.

• On an average, a person in a metropolis has also reported the increase in his/her purchases of textiles this year by. 1.00 meter in 2011 & 1.26 meters in 2012. The per capita purchases in 2011 is 33.78 meters & 35.04 meters in 2012 as against 32.78 meters in 2010, an increase of 3.05 percent in 2011 & 3.73 percent in 2012.


FASHION FORECAST

L.....----

_

Mix Trends 28 Spring Summer 2015 / Globol Polette / Belong

CNCS 088 65 02

EVERYDAY OBJECTS

CNC5 036 90 00

• CNCS 038 80 09

CNCS 031 6018

CNCS 037 60 31

METALLIC

CNC5 120 45 17

Mix Trends 28 Spring Summer 20iS/Global Palette GLAZE

BELONG

EMERGE

eNCS 088 45 02

eNCS 088 65 02

eNCS 127 50 32

eNCS 008 90 00

(NCS 040 50 12

CNCS 036 90 00

eNCS 124 25 15

CNCS 136 85 07

(NCS0496511

eNCS 038 80 09

CNCS 001 45 38

CNCS 088 85 07

eNCS 082 70 17

CNCS 0316018

CNCS 151 45 37

eNCS 1128512

eNCS 087 40 22

(NCS 007 70 22

(NCS010 4Q 27

eNCS 002 35 22

CNCS 152 65 02

CNCS 104 45 02

(NCS 048 70 17

eNCS 002 50 27

CNCS 040 90 07

eNCS 120 35 02

eNCS 069 25 05

CNCS 120 45 17

CNCS 058 60 27

AURA

eNCS 104 85 02

...

Global Color Research'"' Umited

PEARL EFFECT

GlOSS

GLOSS

eNCS 037 60 31

METALLIC

CNCS 152 25 12

10-12 King Henry Terrace, Sovereign Court, The Highway, london, E1W 3H[ UK

mix.

Tel: +44 (0)20 74811507 Fax: +4410120 74811548 Email: morkeling@globalcolor.co.uk

www.globolcolor.co.uk

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A Rieter Com4®compact Licensee in India

Com4® Yarns – Yarns of Choice

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The Nahar Group, with about 850 000 ring and compact spindles and 9 160 rotors in 11 spinning mills, is one of the largest textile companies in India. Next to spinning of yarn counts Ne 10 to Ne 120/2 in different qualities they have their own weaving, knitting, dyeing, mercerizing and ready-to-wear garment production. As a top-line company, the group supplies not only the local textile

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