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August/September 2019

Inspiring Change 2020

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International Conference on Textiles


August/September 2019


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Editor-in-Chief Yousaf Fareed Editor Hassan Saeed Sub-Editor Ezzah Aqeel Mehwish Sheikh Shagufta Riaz Anum Nosheen Advisory Board: Dr. Tanveer Hussain Dr. Muhammad Tausif Marketing Manager Sana Sadiq Saeed Ahmed Layouts Faizan Khan Marketing Incharge Tanveer Ahmed Address C-302, City Towers Main Boulevard, Gulberg II Lahore-Pakistan Phone: + 92 42 35 788 700 Fax: + 92 42 35 788 700 Email: info@textalks.com Skype: textalks www.textalks.com

Steep fall recorded in cotton output; World Cotton Day - Production of Sustainable Cotton is Crucial; IAF 35th World Fashion Convention in Lahore Standing cotton crop has been heavily damaged due to rains and storm in Bahawalpur and Lodhran in Punjab. Although downpour normally helps to wash whitefly from cotton crop but strong winds have damaged standing crop. The crop size and quality of cotton has also been affected. An unprecedented fall of 27.04pc has been recorded in cotton production. The drastic fall in cotton production would not only directly hit GDP growth rate but would also burden country’s foreign exchange reserves due to the huge cotton import bill. TEXtalks International in association with WTO, COTTON Council International and Karachi Cotton Association organized an Awareness Program on “World Cotton Day” in support of M/s Global Enterprise (GTex) and FPCCI, with the aim to promote WTO’s World Cotton Day Global Campaign. The event was held on October 07, 2019 at Federation House, Karachi. The theme of the event was – The Economic and Social Impact of Cotton. On the 7th of October, 2019 – at the initiative of Cotton-4 (Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad and Mali) WTO has launched the World Cotton Day with recognition from the United Nations General Assembly, reflecting the importance of cotton as a global commodity. Mr Gohar Ejaz, APTMA Group Leader has sought a five-year textile policy to double the textile exports to $26bn and create 3mn

new jobs in the country. On the visit of Advisor to Prime Minister on Information Firdous Ashiq Awan at the APTMA Punjab office he appreciated Prime Minister for appointing Mr Ahsan Bashir, former Chairman APTMA as Chairman Task Force on Textile and expressed the hope that the task force would ensure consistency in the government policies towards business. He said the textile industry has achieved a record increase of 26pc growth in quantitative terms although this did not directly reflect in the dollar amounts due to a substantial worldwide decrease in textile prices. However if this 26 percent increase in quantity had not been achieved the exports would have been less than $8.5bn, the international prices have now recovered. Speaking on the occasion, Chairman Task Force said the task force has started working on a new textile policy to increase its exports to $25bn by 2024. He expressed the hope that a comprehensive textile policy would be finalized by December 2019. For the first time, IAF’s 35th World Fashion Convention will be organized together with IAF member PRGMEA (Pakistan Readymade Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association) on November 12-13, 2019 in Lahore, Pakistan. IAF and PRGMEA have chosen the theme ‘Building Competitive Supply Chains Together’. August/September 2019


TEXNews

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Cover Story Cover Story – Inspiring Change Conference

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Happenings

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Corporate Highlights

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Reports Inspiring Change Conference 2019

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World Cotton Day

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BCI 2019 Pakistan Regional Members Meeting

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What’s New…

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TEX Events

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EcoPulsarS . the Queen for Denim manufacturers August/September 2019


YARNS THAT FOLLOW FASHION


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August/September 2019


News

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Steep fall of 27.04pc recorded in cotton output Standing cotton crop has been heavily damaged due to rains and storm in Bahawalpur and Lodhran in Punjab. Although downpour normally helps to wash whitefly from cotton crop but strong winds have damaged standing crop. The crop size and quality of cotton has also been affected.

produced 0.652m less bales. Similarly, Sindh province recorded a fall of 19.74pc in cotton production and produced 1.767m bales compared to 2.202m bales produced in the same period last year. As a result 0.435m less cotton bales have been produced.

An unprecedented fall of 27.04pc has been recorded in cotton production. The drastic fall in cotton production would not only directly hit GDP growth rate but would also burden country’s foreign exchange reserves due to the huge cotton import bill.

Mr Sohail Javed Rehmani, PCGA chairman said presently the entire cotton economy is under distress and this could be verified from the fact that much smaller number of ginning units are presently operating. In total 581 ginning units are operating as against 777 units last year.

According to Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA) issued latest figures, cotton production recorded a steep fall of 1.087m bales. The country produced 2.933m bales as against 4.020m bales in the same period last year. As a result of this shortfall, cotton prices in the domestic market are presently being quoted highest in the world.

He said, “The short cotton crop has badly hit rural economy including workforce where picking of cotton is still done manually and also engages a large number of womenfolk. For the last five years cotton production had been consistently falling.�

The country has also become the biggest importer of US cotton. The weekly report of US Department of Agriculture disclosed that Pakistan imported 62,900 bales so far. Cotton production in Punjab declined by up to 35.87pc on producing 1.165m bales as against 1.818m bales produced in the corresponding period last year. This means that the province has

A leading cotton broker Mr Amir Naseem said that successive governments took no interest in resolving issues confronting cotton crop where the biggest issue had been of developing new variety cotton seeds and ensuring supply of certified seed to growers. He further said that supply of inferior quality pesticides and fertilizer also results in short crop since growers often fail to identify between certified and non-certified products. Above all, cultivated area under cotton crop is also declining on each passing year.

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US tariffs worth US$7.5bn approved on EU goods WTO has given Washington the permission to proceed with the annual tariffs of US$7.5 billion (6.8 billion euros) worth of EU goods in retaliation for the bloc’s illegal support of Airbus. In the 15 yearlong Airbus-Boeing batter, this ruling is the largest award in WTO history and a landmark moment. This move threatens to intensify already strained trade relations between the US and the European Union. Brussels said, “If the US decides to impose WTO authorized countermeasures, it will be pushing the EU into a situation where we will have no other

option than do the same.” This decision, which cannot be appealed, marks the first time the US has been cleared under international trade law to slap countermeasures on EU products. The sanctions could be in place by the end of the month. Boeing said in a statement, “Unfortunately, Airbus’s non-compliance will negatively impact European Member States, industries including textile and businesses completely unrelated to Airbus’s actions, as well as Airbus’s airline customers.”

Oerlikon names Philipp Müller CFO, effective January 2020 Oerlikon announced that Philipp Müller has been named Chief Financial Officer (CFO) and member of the company’s Executive Committee, effective January 1, 2020, succeeding Jürg Fedier, who will retire at the end of December 2019. Philipp Müller has more than 15 years of financial and strategic experience across multiple industries. Most recently, he led the investor relations functions at Baker Hughes in Houston, Texas, US. Prior to that, he served as CFO of GE’s oil & gas drilling business from 2014 to 2016. Previously, Mr. Müller held various financial leadership positions in GE’s industrial businesses. Prior to that, he spent five years on GE’s corporate audit staff, where he advanced to executive audit manager at GE Healthcare. Mr. Müller has extensive international experience, having worked in over ten countries during his career. He is a German citizen and holds a Master’s degree in Business from the University of Mannheim, Germany. Philipp Müller will report to Chief Executive Officer (CEO) Dr. Roland Fischer. August/September 2019


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Textile exports gradually inched up 2.3 percent in July-August Textile exports have recorded a small growth 2.30pc in the first two months of current FY due to sluggish economy. PBS record shows several textile products worth $2.215 billion exports during the month of July-August 2019-20 against exports of $2.303 billion during the same period last year. Comparing on monthly basis, the textile exports have reduced 5.32pc to $1.190 billion in August 2019 from $1.257 billion in the same month last year. In the first two month, textile products that posted positive growth in exports were raw cotton, up 152.33pc, cotton (carded or combed), up 100pc, and yarn other than cotton, up 44.96pc. Knitwear exports weaved their way up to 12.84pc, bed-wear increased 1.22pc, while readymade garments were up 7.47pc. Textile products, which saw a negative growth in exports, were cotton yarn down 7.76pc, cotton cloth down 6.35pc, towels, down 0.20pc, while other textile materials witnessed a decline of 15.46pc. In the period under review, the country earned $541.484 million by exporting about 20.731 million dozens of knitwear items. 86,828 tons of bed-wear worth of $399.994 million, 10.436 million dozens of readymade garments, valuing $476.484 million were exported. August/September 2019


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Symposium German technology meets Pakistani textile industry

Presentation of products and services, B2B and networking From November 12-14, 2019 - a business trip will take place in Karachi (Tuesday, 12th November 2019 . Hotel Avari Towers) and Lahore (Thursday, 14th November 2019 . Hotel Avari Lahore Towers). It is aimed at German manufacturers of textile machinery, sewing and clothing technology as well as other suppliers of production technologies for the textile and nonwovens industry along the entire textile value chain. The business trip will be carried out as part of the BMWi market development programme by SBS systems for business solutions GmbH in cooperation with the German Pakistan Chamber of Commerce and Industry (GPCCI) and the VDMA Textile Machinery Association as specialist partners. Pakistani textile associations, the representatives of the participating German companies and other important multipliers (e.g.

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media partners) are actively involved. The focus will be on presentation events and targeted B2B appointments with potential customers and business partners, as well as company visits if necessary. 15 selected highly innovative and technologically-advanced German companies specialized in production technologies along the entire textile value chain from spinning, knitting, weaving, nonwovens and finishing will be on a 5 day trip to Karachi and Lahore to establish a Pakistani-German business dialogue. The companies include BrĂźckner Group, Durkopp Adler, Groz-Beckert, HEUSCH, JKS, KARL MAYER, Mayer & Cie, Monforts, Saurer, SETEX, Textechno, TrĂźtzschler, WEKO and Welker. TEXtalks is the media partner of the VDMA Symposium.


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Gohar Ejaz Group sweeps APTMA elections for 10th consecutive year Consecutively from 10 years now APTMA elections have been clean swept by Gohar Ejaz Group. Chairman Election Commission conducted scrutiny of the nomination papers of the contesting candidates for the members of the executive committee 2019-20. Mr Rehman Naseem, Mr Danish Monnoo, Mr Kh Zahid Rasheed, Mr Shaiq Javed, Mr Hamid Zaman and Mr Kamran Arshad were elected unopposed for the central executive committee members from Punjab. The Election Commission declared Mr Adil Bashir as Chairman, Mr Abdul Rahim Nasir as Senior vice chairman, Mr Aamir Sh as Vice Chairman and Mr Kamran Arshad as Treasurer and nine members for the Regional Managing Committee of Punjab region. The new APTMA leadership has taken charge in the Annual General Meeting of the Association. While extending his heartiest congratulations to the newly elected team, Patron-in-Chief Gohar Ejaz has set a minimum agenda of industry revival and export-led growth across the value chain for the new team through outreach to all sub-sectors for effective public advocacy. He has expressed the hope that the new APTMA leadership would secure long term policy enablers from the government to bring the industry back on its feet to start performing as per its potential by investing in new capacities to produce an exportable surplus. He said a number of issues are emanating from the prevailing post-budget uncertainty in the industry. The sales tax refund of the exporters for the month of July has become due after filing of the return and depositing of the required tax. He said the government had announced the payment of 90 per cent refund within 14 days of its due date. The government should immediately pay the refund of all such exporters, he asserted. He has also urged the new leadership to take up the issue of availability of electricity and gas at a regionally competitive rate, I.e., at $6.5 per MMBTU and 7.5 cents per kWh respectively for the next five years to all the exporting sectors. It would enable the industrialists to take investment decisions only if the government issues a notification immediately. Patron-in-Chief APTMA Gohar Ejaz has expressed the hope that new leadership would work wholeheartedly and exercise all their efforts for achieving economic growth, investment, exports, jobs and expansion in the industrial growth while working in tandem with the government.

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US apparel imports from Southeast Asia on the rise during August A dramatic fall in shipments have been witness in three largest us clothing suppliers – Mexico, El Salvador and Honduras. While imports from Southeast Asia crept back up with Cambodia booking the largest growth, suggesting US buyers are tapping into neighboring countries as the US-China trade war intensifies. According to recent data, the volume of US apparel imports from all sources fell 1.4pc on MOM basis to 2.78bn square meter equivalents in august. There’s a 2.1pc rise in volume against the same month last year and a 1.6pc increase in value terms on YOY to US$8.4bn. China saw shipments rise 5pc YOY basis to 1.35bn SME, largest supplier of apparel to the US, with imports from the country up 3pc MOM from 1.31bn

SME as per in July. Vietnam, the second largest recorded YOY volume growth of 1.57pc to 335m SME. Whereas, Bangladesh, third, saw shipment growth of 4.5pc to 164m SME. Pakistan booked a decline in shipments of 4.6pc to 50m SME. El Salvador booked the largest decline at 11.55pc down to 60m SME. Indonesia also saw volumes significantly drop during the month at 11.45pc to 92m SME. Combines textile and apparel imports, as they grew 4pc YOY to 6.63bn SME in August, but in value terms were flat at 0.7pc to $10.9bn. Textiles alone recorded growth of 5.4pc to 3.85bn SME, but in value terms was down 2.3pc to 2.47bn.

Saleem Khan Tanoli makes it to 100 Best Performing CEOs of Pakistan Mr Saleem Khan Tanoli is a dynamic and professional entrepreneur, with an experience of 18 years in multitude areas of exhibitions, services, manufacturing industry and has various awards and accolades to his credit. The latest addition to the list of honors that he has received is recognition as one of the 100 Best Performing CEOs & Companies of Pakistan 2019. Mr Saleem Khan Tanoli is the CEO of FAKT Exhibitions (Pvt) Ltd., he is also the Chairman - Central Standing Committee on International Relations of The Federation of Pakistan Chambers of Commerce & Industry (FPCCI), First Vice Chairman, Asia Pacific Chapter of UFI - The Global Association of the Exhibition Industry, Chairman South of Global August/September 2019

Research & Facilitation Council (GRFC), Senior Vice President of German Pakistan Chamber of Commerce & Industry (GPCCI) and Vice President of Asia Advertisement Association (AAA). Mr Tanoli is also active member of Pakistan-China Joint Chamber of Commerce & Industry (PCJCCI), The Lahore Chamber of Commerce & Industry (LCCI), Karachi Chamber of Commerce & Industry (KCCI) and Italian Development Committee (IDC). Mr Tanoli, through his pioneer skills and unbeatable aptitude, aims to contribute positively in the economic growth of Pakistan and enhance the country’s soft image.


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Germany unveils "Green Button" seal for sustainable textiles

Mr Gerd Müller, German Development Minister has presented the country's new "Green Button" seal for sustainable textiles. He said that the new scheme is meant to ensure that consumers can purchase clothing that has achieved certain social and environmental standards, including a minimum wage for textile workers and a ban on child labor, as well as the use of certain chemicals and air pollutants. The seal has already been applied to products from some smaller German brands, but also large chains like Lidl and Tchibo.

'Too weak' But critics say it is too weak to make a difference. They say it is superfluous and has created duplicate structures to those that already exist. They also pointed out that if only Germany was taking part, it wouldn't make any real difference in a globalized sector. Mr Uwe Wötzel of the "Clean Clothes Campaign said, “The criteria are simply too weak to make a difference with regards to sustainability and ensuring that textile workers are employed in fair and safe conditions. For example, he said, the minimum wage laid out in the framework is so low that no one could live off it."

Indian textile industry deeply suffers due to cheap yarn import from China and Indonesia Indian textile industry is suffering immensely due to cheap yarn import from China and Indonesia. A large number of small and medium yarn producing units are on the verge of closing. Due to US China trade war and FTA with ASEAN countries, viscose staple fibre (VSF) yarn imports have surged about 200pc year on year in the first five months of this financial year, touching a record 8,029 tonnes in August for an average monthly demand of 50,000 tonnes. China has been at the forefront of exports and Indonesia follows driving down the price of VSF yarn August/September 2019

to Rs 160-165 per kg from the highs of Rs 190-200 six months ago. There is currently a 5pc duty on imports of VSF yarn and the industry is pleading to have government increase this to 10-15pc. Mr Ramesh Natarajan, secretary of Indian Manmade Yarn Manufacturers Association said, “These are not easy days. There is at least one month of unsold inventory across spinners, large and small. People are contemplating production offs of one-two days a week and our only plea is for the government to step in urgently and increase import duty on VSF yarn from 5pc to at least 10pc to give a level-playing field to the industry.”


DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR expands its design influence for carpets and floor coverings

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR – the leading trade show for carpets and floor coverings in the Asia Pacific region - expands the design and conference area and welcomes new and returning brands. In 2020, DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR to be held on March 24-26, 2020 will cover more than 185,000 sqm of gross space, taking up 16 halls at the Shanghai New International Expo Center. Five of the exhibition halls will be dedicated to carpets and rugs, four to wood, bamboo and other hard floors, 2 to FLOORTECH asia and 5 halls to resilient floor coverings. In 2019, the show gathered 1,579 exhibitors from 36 countries and attracted 66,875 trade visitors, of which 15,092 international, coming from 107 nations. This year, for the 22nd edition, each flooring sector will have a theme. The highlighted product category in wood is solid wood for ground heating systems. The international and local market leaders, such as Junckers, Foglie d’Oro, Edelholz, IBF, Teclic, Nature,

Fudeli, Bloor, Jinyi, Licher, Nuogao and Moganshan have already confirmed their participation at the show. The resilient flooring section will be spread out to 69,500 sqm gross, featuring Stone Plastic Composite (SPC) flooring. Among the resilient halls, there will be an “Inspiration Hall”, housing InnovAction campaign and design forum, where famous interior designers will educate the audience on using resilient flooring in interior. Carpet section will promote carpet as a driving force for interior design, with a dedicated hall being the epicenter of home and design carpets and the host hall for the Luxury Brands Carpet Show. Country pavilions from Germany, Belgium, Iran and Turkey will showcase their products among the carpet halls. In order to give the oriental carpets and rugs the spotlight and follow the trends, Indian and Afghanistan pavilions will be creating a new area -“Treasure of Orient”. August/September 2019

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Aptma seeks five-year textile policy to double exports to $26bn Mr Gohar Ejaz, APTMA Group Leader has sought a five-year textile policy to double the textile exports to $26bn and create 3mn new jobs in the country. On the visit of Advisor to Prime Minister on Information Firdous Ashiq Awan at the APTMA Punjab office he appreciated Prime Minister for appointing Mr Ahsan Bashir, former Chairman APTMA as Chairman Task Force on Textile and expressed the hope that the task force would ensure consistency in the government policies towards business. He said the textile industry has achieved a record increase of 26pc growth in quantitative terms although this did not directly reflect in the dollar amounts due to a substantial worldwide decrease in

textile prices. However if this 26 percent increase in quantity had not been achieved the exports would have been less than $8.5bn, the international prices have now recovered. Speaking on the occasion, Chairman Task Force said the task force has started working on a new textile policy to increase its exports to $25bn by 2024. He expressed the hope that a comprehensive textile policy would be finalized by December 2019. He said the share of Pakistan in the $450bn world garments exports is 1.5pc that needed to be increased through investment in the garment sector. He said the exports can never touch the magical figure of $50bn unless Pakistan promotes and develops its small and medium (SME) sector.

New Sales tax return monitoring software by FBR To effectively monitor the sales tax returns, Chairman Federal Board of Revenue Syed Muhammad Shabbar Zaidi has inaugurated a new software called Centralized Sales Tax & FED Assessment & Processing (CSTAP). Developed by IR-Operations Wing of FBR, this software has been inaugurated at FBR Headquarters. The purpose of the software is to identify the tax gaps and to determine actual Sales Tax/ FED liabilities of all taxpayers. This software will also be used for the purpose of expeditious processing of refund claims. Ms Seema Shakeel, Member IR-Operations demonstrated the working and application of the new software live. The Chairman FBR was also informed that first batch of 25 officers from field formations are given task to test run this project from September 11, 2019. However, after successful test run of this project, the same shall be made available to all field formations throughout the country.

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Indian Govt. requested to take caution in RCEP – textile exporters Indian textile manufacturers and exporters have cautioned the government against opening up the domestic market to China under the proposed Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) agreement. They said that added competition from cheaper Chinese goods may put pressure on domestic sales. Although the government has assured them their interests will be protected. RCEP is India’s most ambitious trade pact, currently under negotiation. Based on India’s existing free trade agreement (FTA) with the 10-nation bloc of the Association for South East Asian Nations (ASEAN),

RCEP will include all the nations with which the Asean has trade deals — New Zealand, Australia, China, India, Japan and South Korea. At the last meeting on RCEP, the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) had cautioned the government to tread carefully while ceding space to China in the global textiles and clothing sector. Half of India’s trade in this sector in RCEP is with China, with which it had a big trade deficit of almost $1 billion in 2018. Export of readymade garments, in which India’s export competitiveness has fallen over the past fiscal year, contracted by 2.44pc in August.

China to further invest in textile industry in BRI countries China will step up efforts to boost investment in the textile industry in Belt and Road (B&R) countries, according to the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC). In recent years, the CNTAC has helped Chinese textile and apparel firms understand foreign investment environment and contributed to the signing of many overseas investment projects by establishing international platforms for multilateral exchanges and holding investment promotion

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meetings, said Gao Yong, the council's Party secretary. Over 80 percent of Chinese textile and apparel industry's global investment flowed to the B&R region from 2015 to 2018, according to data from the CNTAC. In the future, the CNTAC will continue to facilitate investment in B&R countries and push forward international production capacity cooperation in the textile sector, Gao said.


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Vietnam's textile-garment exports hit $25.7bn in 8 months According to VITAS, during the first eight months of the current FY, Vietnam textile value including fiber and clothing exports have reached $25.7bn up 8.6pc on YOY. 60.6pc of the figure include FDI enterprises and the industry’s trade surplus in that period has reached $10.8bn. The sector spent $14.9bn to import raw materials for production, up 2.3pc YOY, 62pc of which was done by FDI enterprises. The US-China trade war has affected exchange rates, leading to higher prices of processed goods in the country compared to regional competitors like

South Korea and China. That has also affected the number of export orders for local enterprises, according to a report in a Vietnamese newspaper. Industry experts said export orders have fallen. Some businesses have only received 70pc of new orders compared to the same period last year. Consumption of fibers and raw materials has struggled as China, Vietnam’s major export market that accounts for 60pc of such exports, has cut import volume. Garment enterprises also saw a drop in orders.

ICAC: Modest growth in cotton consumption; Keeps 2019/20 demand expectations low countries - Global production is projected to outpace consumption slightly in 2019/20 - East Asian countries will continue to lead the world in consumption - Several major consuming countries will post consumption gains, but mostly 2% or less - High stocks and low demand for exports have driven prices to their lowest levels since 2016 As of 2019/20, the global cotton consumption in coming season is expected to increase, gains will be at their minimal and a production of 26.8 million tonnes is expected to slightly outpace the

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consumption of 26.5 million tonnes. In coming season China’s total consumption is expected to remain same as of 2018/19 of 8.25 million tonnes. Several major consuming countries including India, Bangladesh and Vietnam are expected to see gains not more than 2pc as overall growth is slowing except Indonesia with a projected growth of 4pc over 2018/19. With plentiful supplies and weak export demand, the price on the Cotlook A Index has dropped to its lowest point since 2016.


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IAF 35th World Fashion Convention in Lahore For the first time, IAF’s 35th World Fashion Convention will be organized together with IAF member PRGMEA (Pakistan Readymade Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association) on November 12-13, 2019 in Lahore, Pakistan. IAF and PRGMEA have chosen the theme ‘Building Competitive Supply Chains Together’. The Convention: a major international event Mr Ijaz Khokhar, IAF Regional President and PRGMEA Chief Coordinator said that the show is expected to attract foreign delegates from more than 45 countries. Hence, Pakistan's textile value-chain associations plan to avail maximum opportunity of this mega global summit. Dr. Muhammad Ayyaz Uddin added, “The main focus is to highlight real and soft image of Pakistan, besides updating the participants about what Pakistan produced, and ensure interaction among Pakistani exporters and international textile chains.” He termed the event as a large scale social networking opportunity for both foreigners and locals. IAF Conventions are traditionally a mix of gathering insights at the conference and extending one’s network at the social events and this Convention in Lahore will be no exception. The IAF Golf Tournament, a festive fashion dinner and a facultative study tour will be part of the program. Key speakers participating at the event include Mr Han Bekke (President IAF), Mr Wilson Zhu (COO August/September 2019

Li&Fung, Hong Kong), Mr Joachim Hensch (MD Hugo Boss Textile Industries Germany), Mr Stefani Artmann (Kik Germany), Mr Christopher Veit (CEO Veit GmbH), Mr Yvonne Heinen (Gerber Technology), Mr Donny Lassiter (CCI), Mr Christian Ewert, (CEO Amfori), Mr Azfar Hasan (CEO Matrix Group), Mr Erbu Debbag (Director-Global Sales and Marketing at Soorty Enterprises Turkey) and Mr Sal Khokhar (Former EVP Ralph Laren, Adidas and Calvin Klein). The textile associations participating at the event include APTMA, APTPMA, PTEA, PHMEA, PCGA and TMA. Presentations to be held at the convention are as follows: - A vision for a development path for the Pakistani apparel industry in a global context - Possibilities now and in the future for the digitization and automation of garment production - Prerequisites for Pakistan’s Garment Industry To Assure Competitiveness In Presence & Future - The state of Cotton - Sustainability and value addition - Global apparel industry developments - Global Retail developments and consequences for the apparel supply chain Topics for the panel discussion sessions are as follows: - Buyer – Manufacturer collaboration in practice - Creating the right environment for a prospering industry - Innovation in the industry in practice


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IAF Regional President also announced to hold Global Fashion Awards (GFA) 2019 during 35th World Fashion Convention, claiming that it would be the IAF-PRGMEA's largest sustainable fashion competition in Pakistan, aimed at educating young fashion designers about sustainable design

techniques and theories, besides providing a platform in the spotlight for the aspiring designers. The top ten finalists would be presenting their creations at Gala Dinner of the 35th World Fashion Convention on November 12, 2019.

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US retail imports to hit highest level before December tariffs Imports at the US major retail container ports are expected to hit their highest level of the year again next month just before more tariffs take effect in December.

total of about $300 billion in imports. In addition, 25pc tariffs on $250 billion worth of imports already imposed over the past year are scheduled to increase to 30pc on October 15.

Mr Jonathan Gold, NRF vice president for Supply Chain and Customs Policy said, “This is the last chance to bring merchandise into the country before virtually everything the United States imports from China comes under tariffs.”

“Retailers are doing all they can to mitigate the impact of tariffs on their customers,” added Mr Gold. “The effect on prices will vary by retailer and product during the holiday season, but ultimately these taxes on America businesses and consumers will result in higher prices. We urge the administration to use this week’s talks with China to make progress toward ending the trade war and return to policies that promote long-term economic growth and prosperity for American families.”

New 15pc tariffs on a wide range of consumer goods from China took effect at the beginning of September and are scheduled to be expanded to additional goods on December 15 – covering a

Pakistan and Tunisian, Joint Working Group decides for enhance cooperation in Textile Sector The 2nd meeting of Joint Working Group on Textiles was held between representative of Tunisia and Pakistan. During the meeting both sides decided to enhance cooperation by boosting bilateral trade in textile sector. The meeting was held in Textile Division in which delegation from both sides discussed in detail various opportunities for enhancing bilateral trade and found that there are many avenues for boosting textile exports. The Tunisian delegation also visited National Textile University (NTU), Faisalabad as well as various textile factories and witnessed state of the art

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machinery and equipment used by Pakistan’s textile sector. Both sides decided that there should be business to business exchange of trade delegations between the two countries. Exhibitions, Trade Fares and Conferences must be organized for awareness about textile products. Pakistan side emphasized need of exploring African markets through the assistance of Tunisian side. The signing ceremony embodied agreed decisions of Joint Working Group (JWG) singed by Secretary, Textile Division and Director of Textile Industries, Tunisia.


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Intertextile Apparel marks a milestone: 25 years of serving the industry

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics will return on September 25 – 27 at the National Exhibition & Convention Center (Shanghai) and 2019 marks the 25th anniversary of the Autumn Edition. In March, the Spring Edition experienced yet another 15pc increase in visitor numbers and strong positive feedback from exhibitors. Despite global trade concerns, this fair proves itself time and time again as the ideal place to make valuable connections and capture new potential in the market. There is a place for every apparel textile product at the fair, with well-established product zones and country & region pavilions including: - SalonEurope: featuring high-end products from Europe, including pavilions from Germany and Turkey, as well as Milano Unica from Italy. - Asian country & region pavilions: presented by Hong Kong, India, Japan, Korea, Pakistan, Taiwan and Thailand. - Group pavilions: from Lenzing, Invista, Hyosung, DuPont, Korea Textile Trade Association (KTTA), Korea Textile Centre (KTC) and OEKO-TEX (in the All About Sustainability zone). - Product zones: Functional Lab, Beyond Denim, All About Sustainability, Digital Printing Zone, Verve August/September 2019

for Design, Premium Wool Zone and Accessories Vision. New season of inspiration and flexible order services The fair will host a comprehensive fringe programme for visitors and exhibitors to enhance their trip with the latest market information and opinions. Visitors can discover a new season of inspiration, for both international and domestic autumn / winter 2020-21 trends, at the Intertextile Directions Trend Forum and the Fabrics China Trend Forum. Intertextile Apparel also aims to foster innovation and creativity at the China International Fabrics Design & Fabrics Creation Competition. The fringe programme will also include seminars and panel discussions covering key industry topics, as well as product presentations from leading exhibitors. To meet flexible sourcing needs, the fair will offer a database of exhibitors offering small-order and product-in-stock services. The Business Matching Programme will also arrange onsite meetings between exhibitors and VIP buyers, with interpreters available on a first-come-first-serve basis.


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Inspiring Change Conference 2020

Opportunities don't happen You create them August/September 2019


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Emerging Global Issues and Sustainable Solutions for the Textile Industry

Introduction In Pakistan, the largest manufacturing industry is the textile sector. Over centuries, textile has been the country’s backbone as it offered bases for employment and export opportunities. The growth of cotton production and development of textile industry has been remarkable in Pakistan since 1947. Statistics show that Pakistan textiles industry comprises of 11.3 million spindles, 03 million rotors, 350,000 power looms, 18,000 knitting machines and processing capacity of 5.2 billion sq m in Pakistan. Furthermore, it has the 700,000 industrial and local stitching machines. It has a strong fiber base of 13 million bales of cotton and 600,000 tons of man-made fibers counting polyester fiber. Also there are 21 filament yarn units having capacity of 100,000 tons. The filament and yarn industry is supported by PTA plant which has 500,000 tons capacity. Thus a complete textiles value chain exists in Pakistan which is rare globally, unlike various competitors which have only chief base or the finished base. Pakistani textile industry today, as a result of the progressive policies is hopeful about its future prospects but this potential of growth brings forth its challenges as well. In this time of need, TEXtalks invites the industry experts to gather and explore the world of textiles with us!

Explore endless possibilities for success in the world of textiles with Inspiring Change Conference Opening the door to lively and stimulating debates through excellent presentations and active discussions, Inspiring Change is a gathering of eminent people from different parts of the world textile industry, in the fields of government, industry, academia and associations. The importance of a conference cannot be overstated. TEXtalks has made a considerable progress in this direction, yet much still needs to be done. The previous editions of Inspiring Change have been an outstanding example that there is indeed, plenty to reflect upon and that these platforms enhance our individual and collective contributions to meeting the global textile challenges. Another important aspect of this conference is the general awareness that only through concerted cooperation and regular interaction we can hope to improve our understanding of the main issues involved and establish the confidence required to forge a lasting and effective interrelationship among all textile stakeholders. As the previous editions have shown, TEXtalks will continue to pursue the road of textile solutions and will strive to bring as many stakeholders under this umbrella as possible.

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Sustainability Today consumers are becoming more aware of the need to protect the environment, and companies use these terms to promote their goods or services with eco-labels. Environment friendly (also eco-friendly, nature friendly, and green) are terms used to refer to goods and services, laws, guidelines and policies claiming to inflict minimal or no harm on the environment. Clothing is an integral part of our lives and green or environmental concerns have started to draw more and more attention in the textile and clothing sector. The textile sector serves as a backbone for the economy of Pakistan on the way towards a sustainable economic development. Hence, the industry needs to take measures to make textile and clothing green with respect to product lifecycle, from raw material through the design and production and logistics up to disposal in order to maintain key factors and parameters for greening the industry. Innovation Cutting-edge research and development has created exciting new fibers and yarns that expand beyond conventional, natural and organic ones. This has resulted in innovative products for the lifestyle, sports, medical, transportation and other sectors, thus ensuring continuous business growth. The innovation in textile manufacturing has introduced a variety in raw materials and manufacturing processes. Therefore, process control August/September 2019

to ensure product quality is desired. All the processing stages in textile manufacturing from fiber production to finished fabric are experiencing enhancement in process control and evaluation.

What’s New – Sustainable Pakistan Inspiring Change Conference will fascinate the textile professionals by presenting about a new project funded by the German Govt. - “Sustainable Pakistan”, with the purpose to globally promote the garment and fashion industry of Pakistan. Sustainability in textiles can result in very stable performance, efficient management system with increased profit margins and decreased cost of production, improvisation in labor-industry relationship, reduction in environmental concerns and a strong work force. Purpose of Inspiring Change Inspiring Change, a conference that aims to provide a platform to the textile experts to share and align their thoughts and ideas to subsequently suggest next steps to enhance the global competitiveness and attract endeavors in value-added sector to ultimately pave the way for sustainable growth of the textile industry. Objective of the Conference The event will provide an opportunity to our participants to interact with a number of key national and international experts who will share wealth of their knowledge, experience and, more importantly, solutions about various issues related to the industry.


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International Conference on Textiles Question and Answer sessions will be a key opportunity for participants to interact with the experts. Opportunities for the participants Opportunities for the participants at the conference are as follows: - Discussion on the latest global trends - Opportunities to explore new ideas and technologies - Evaluating and finding solutions for the issues and challenges faced by the textile industry - Sustainable textile development - Corporate networking with national global textile experts Dates and Venue The two-day conference will be held in the lively city of Lahore on March 10 - 11, 2020. August/September 2019

About Organizers Since its establishment in 2006, TEXtalks International is serving the textile industry efficiently and effectively by providing latest updates ad reviews with the aim to seamlessly connect different sectors of the industry. TEXtalks is effectively fulfilling the communication and information needs of the textile industry through its extensive web portal and textile magazine that is distributed globally. The conference is a step forward to proceed with the motto- to facilitate the industry with the best! Join us to be a part of the Inspiring Change One day Registration: Rs 2,500 Two day Registration: Rs 4,500 For registration & Sponsorship: info@textalks.com / +92 300 8439869


Happenings

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The successful Loepfe Prisma Roadshow 2019 - Pakistan Leopfe, one of the leading specialist for integral quality control systems held PRISMA Roadshow on September 21, 2019 in Pearl Continental Lahore, Pakistan. The main objective of the successful event was to share with the textile industrialists, the unique features, benefits and overall performance of the YarnMaster PRISMA.

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World Cotton Day TEXtalks International in association with WTO, COTTON Council International, SPGPrints, Trützschler and FPCCI organized an Awareness Program on “World Cotton Day” with the aim to promote WTO’s World Cotton Day Global Campaign. The event was held on October 07, 2019 at Federation House, Karachi. The theme of the event was – The Economic and Social Impact of Cotton.

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BCI 2019 Pakistan Regional Members Meeting BCI hosted Pakistan Regional Members Meeting in Pearl Continental Lahore, Pakistan. The purpose of the event was to bring the BCI members together from the entire cotton supply chain that includes farmers, retailers & brands, ginners, spinners, fabric mills, garment manufacturers to learn and network.

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Corporate Highlights

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Savio’s EcoPulsarS winding machine, the Queen for Denim manufacturers

Savio EcoPulsarS

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The Italian textile machinery manufacturer Savio can be defined a denim specialist, providing winding machines that can easily process special and challenging yarns, such as Lycra® and Dual Core Yarns. Savio winding unit is equipped with splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect joints and perfect package shape. The demand for denim yarns with elastomeric core is expanding, and plays an important role because of fashion versatility and flexibility. Stretch garments are playing an important role inside this scenario, denim jeans and leggings are highly requested, especially for womenswear. Keeping up this trend of stretch denim, many yarn & fabric manufacturers are offering duo core yarns with improved recovery and strength, while retaining the comfort of cotton next to the skin. Dual core spun yarns are consisting of three components: a core filament - mainly Lycra®, a polyester multifilament as T-400® and a staple fibermainly cotton. This special yarn offers improved recovery and strength compared to traditional core spun technology. Savio winding machine can easily process special and challenging yarns. Savio winding unit is equipped with splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect joints and perfect package shape. A common problem faced by the stretch fabric manufacturers is the breakage of the yarns during downstream process. The well-known Savio Twinsplicer still represents the solution to achieve the best performance of a “perfect joint” on Core Yarns, mainly “single core” with cotton, but also positive results have been achieved with Dual Core Yarns. In this field, Savio can also offer the new splicing technology combining air and water, Moistair®, which represents the most flexible solution of any kind of yarn. EcoPulsarS: the sustainable eco-green advantage EcoPulsarS winding machine was initially launched at

ITMA Milan in 2015 and represents Savio’s latest offering with a focus on sustainability, completely appealing textile companies who are looking to

MOISTAIR® Splicer

decrease energy consumption in their manufacturing process and also adhere to new environmental legislations. Savio’s Automatic Winder EcoPulsarS is equipped with a suction-on-demand system (S.D.S) which is one of the main reasons why the machines are able to reduce energy consumption up to 30%. The machine, with its sustainable eco-green advantage, replies to the markets demand of energy saving including room air conditioning, together with improved production performances, high quality packages and utmost flexibility. August/September 2019


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Twinsplicer

Savio has always looked to stay ahead of competition and predict important emerging trends. Now, sustainability is right up there and is a key important development across the global textile industry. Initially, Savio were the first company to introduce computerized machines to the textile industry in the 1990s and more recently, they have followed this up with automation and Industry 4.0. Twinsplicer: the unique selling proposition of Savio, an optimal solution for denim fabric A common problem with fabrics, especially stretch fabrics, is thread breakage during production. When a break occurs, thanks to splicing devices equipped on the machine, the winding unit is able to make a cut of the broken / defective thread and to re-knot it,

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so as to aesthetically guarantee perfect joints and, consequently, perfectly package cones. The package formed by yarn without visible defects will give a fabric with an excellent appearance, especially for fine yarns, denim and high quality yarns. Savio patented the TwinsplicerÂŽ in 1983, a mechanical splicer composed of discs coated with a polymer. This splicer achieves joints that are not otherwise comparable, as it is able to perfectly reconstruct the yarn at the junction point, without knots. The TwinsplicerÂŽ enhances its technological versatility with stretch yarns (cotton / LycraÂŽ), creating invisible joints with perfect tightness and with the elastic filament core perfectly integrated into the joint.


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The Truetzschler Card TC 19i The first intelligent card

important settings completely independently and with a precision not achievable by humans, which results in an unprecedented level of quality. “This is the future!” and “This is the development we need!” were the reactions of booth visitors which sales manager Ralf Müller experienced at this year’s ITMA. “The possibility to increase quality and productivity as well as solving personnel issues through features like T-GO or WASTECONTROL fascinated our customers.” Truetzschler Card TC 19i

Is there a formula for successful innovations? Definitely not. But how does Truetzschler manage to continuously raise the bar in carding technology? How can the Truetzschler Card TC15 be surpassed in terms of quality and performance? “The dialogue with our customers is decisive for our developments. We listen to them very carefully when they talk about unresolved problems. High raw material costs, personnel bottlenecks and fluctuating raw material qualities combined with constantly high quality requirements are among the present circumstances that need to be overcome.” Markus Wurster, Sales Director The fact that Truetzschler has the technical competence to implement these requirements was demonstrated once again at ITMA 2019. A new chapter in card development has been be opened: The Truetzschler card is intelligent. It performs August/September 2019

Ralf Müller with Pakistani customers at ITMA Barcelona

TC 19i main features at a glance are Self-optimizing precision For cotton carding, the carding gap between the cylinder and flat clothing should be as small as possible. The optimum gap is 3/1000” (0.075mm) for many types of cotton. For comparison: Not even a sheet of paper fits inbetween. Even an experienced technologist cannot carry out such narrow settings when the card is cold. During operation, centrifugal


forces and temperature increases influence these settings significantly. Yarn quality depending on the carding gap Neps 1/1000m

Cotton NE 30 combed

50

40

30

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many good fibers end up in the waste, the system adjusts the mote knife setting on the WEBFEED via a servomotor. Permanent quality control The Truetzschler Nep Sensor NCT (separat option) permanently monitors the web on the doffer. A camera registers and distinguishes neps, trash particles and seed coat fragments. The data is displayed on the screen of the cards and also transmitted to the Truetzschler mill monitoring system My Mill. In this way, multiple cards can be monitored regarding quality delivery, and any deviation will immediately be recognized.

0 10

6

3

carding gap

Savings with WASTECONTROL

In this example with Uzbek cotton, the lowest nep values were achieved with a carding gap of 3/1000” (0.075 mm).

80.000

On the Truetzschler Card TC 19i with the Gap Optimizer T-GO, a basic flat setting is only carried out once by our specialists. Afterwards, T-GO ensures an ideal carding gap at all times, whether the card is cold or warm, after clothing grinding, even after clothing replacement. This is a permanent, self-optimizing, intelligent process that takes place without any production interruption. It responds automatically to changing parameters such as: • Material properties • Production level • Cylinder speed • Environmental influences such as room temperature

T-GO optimizes a carding gap of for example 3/1000”, which is thinner than a sheet of paper

Maximum raw material utilization The key to the profitability of a spinning mill is the maximum utilization of the raw material. On TC 19i, an optical sensor monitors the waste in the suction, thus providing the data for WASTECONTROL. If too

Savings (€/year)

70.000 60.000 50.000 40.000 30.000 20.000 10.000 2.000

4.000

6.000

8.000

10.000

Yarn production (t/year) Considerable production costs can be saved with only 0.5% waste savings. This example is based on raw material costs of 72 US cent/lbs (1.41 €/kg).

Smart and easy operation The TC 19i provides a multitouch screen that can be used as easily and intuitively as a smartphone. Individual operator recognition and authorization is possible through an RFID chip. In addition, the remote card display T-LED visualizes important machine information in an easy way and helps operators to stay aware of each machine’s status. Jürgen März, carding specialist at Truetzschler, received a lot of positive feedback at ITMA: “By talking to our customers about problems in their mills, we learned about their dependence on skilled staff. The precision of the flat setting is highly influenced by the operator, but reliable and well-trained personnel is difficult to find today. Customers were very impressed by the fact that very narrow settings can be set completely independent. The carding gap is no longer set by a technician, but by an intelligent system. The limitations of human precision have been overcome by Truetzschler machinery at this point.” August/September 2019

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Picanol’s digitized insertion on rapier Picanol OptiMax-i

We are undoubtedly seeing a digital revolution in weaving, propelled by the wave of Industry 4.0 (the fourth industrial revolution). That’s why as a pioneer in weaving as well as in electronics, Picanol is proud to demonstrate an OptiMax-i weaving denim fabrics with almost fully digitized insertion. As the major weaving machine supplier in the denim business, Picanol is in the best possible position to detect the future needs of the customers. Together with the customers Picanol is able to work out solutions and make this revolution actually happen already today. Hence Picanol demonstrated a denim machine with insertion that has been almost completely digitized. Thanks to the integrated concept all settings are available and can be retrieved on the central microprocessor. • It starts right from the prewinders equipped with a tension display (TED). Having a digital setting of the brake on the prewinder not only gives you a tension which is reproducible in the future, but also allows you to manage possible differences between prewinders in a much easier way. The filling tension during insertion can be electronically controlled with the programmable filling tensioner TEC to eliminate possible tension peaks. The signals from the filling detector – either standard or SmartEye – are continuously monitored and analyzed by the machine's microprocessor.

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Digitized Insertion

• With the QuickStep filling presenter, different timings for presentation, insertion and rest position can be programmed. While the QuickStep is nothing new it is still the benchmark on the market. • New on this machine is the Electronic Right Gripper Opener (ERGO). Developed as a gripper opener to tune the machine for minimum waste length when weaving different types of weft yarn, the ERGO is an additional step in the digitization of the weaving machine, allowing fully electronic setting of the right-hand-side gripper opener even while the machine is running. In addition to these “Driven by Data” features Picanol also demonstrate an impressive “Sustainability Inside” capability, with the EcoFill in 4-color version installed on this OptiMax-i. Picanol was the first machine manufacturer to eliminate the left-hand side waste ribbon on a rapier machine, introduced in 2011 in a 2-color version aimed at technical fabrics. The Picanol system for a catchcord-free set-up on the left-hand side has been extended to a 4-color version, with no limitations for the designers in terms of e.g. color pattern. On top of this, this feature is also very intuitive to control, as the EcoFill settings are fully digital. Note: The Picanol agency for North of Pakistan will be taken over by Madhani Associates, already being agent for South of Pakistan.


Ad


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iTextiles® seminar on “Product Innovation and Technical Discussion” iTextiles (Pvt) Ltd. marked another milestone with success of its Seminar related to “Innovation and Technical Discussion” held on June 27th, 2019 and July 26th, 2019 in Karachi and Lahore. These events were attended by several clients representing denim, woven and knits units based in South Region (Karachi) and North Region (Lahore, Faisalabad, Gujranwala and Multan) including but not limited to some of the biggest players in Pakistan’s textile industry. During this event Mr. Mujeeb Ullah Khan spoke about Global and Pakistan textile industry, shared the new change in the ownership of, THE LYCRA COMPANY, formed under the management of Shandong Ruyi Investment Holding. Further, discussed more on the expertise and knowledge about the new innovative products for improved fabric performance - specially on LYCRA® DualFx, and LYCRA® Freefit fabrics. We believe that with the increased customer awareness these innovative products are the ultimate future of our textile industry.

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Further, this event included: - Awareness regarding The LYCRA Company’s new technologies such as LYCRA® Fiber, LYCRA® T400, COOLMAX®, THERMOLITE®, TACTEL, SUPPLEX. - Shared full knowledge about LYCRA® C2C certification with all customers. - Awareness of Dupont Enzymes, Textile Chemicals and Dyneema®. - Discussion about Fabric PATENT technologies like LYCRA® DUALFX®, LYCRA® FREEFIT, LYCRA BEAUTY, LYCRA DOUBLE BEAM and others. - Display of physical samples including Garments, fabric and fibers along with the videos, presentations and one to one discussion of technical problem and solutions. - Event ended up with a corporate dinner and a networking session. iTextiles® received great feedback on these events from the audience and looking forward to arrange awareness session in future as well.


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Semi-Automated Rotor Spinning with Maximum Flexibility New R 37 offers high yarn purity over a wide range of applications

R 37: wide application range, high productivity and low energy consumption. Package change is performed automatically.

The semi-automated rotor spinning machine is the ideal solution for customers with personnel availability who want to use low priced raw materials. It enables cost-efficient spinning of rotor yarns based on high productivity, low energy consumption and personnel-saving machine ergonomics – with maximum flexibility in terms of the raw material used. The innovative technology of the new R 37 enables excellent trash extraction and reduces the ends down. The R 37 therefore offers up to 8% higher productivity than other semi-automated machines. A major contributory factor to this productivity is the optimized spinning box, now with exchangeable trash channel. This enables the efficient processing of a much wider range of raw materials than previously, particularly those with a high trash content. Using a trash channel specific to the raw material secures optimum trash extraction and ensures that the rotor groove remains clean for longer. This greatly reduces ends down. Yarn purity and therefore imperfections and Classimat values are also considerably improved. Customers benefit from

August/September 2019

a reliable and robust spinning process – with considerably fewer ends down than on other machines. Low energy consumption The previous model, the R 36, already consumed 5% less energy than competitor models, thereby greatly reducing production costs. This is due to the modern drive concept which is also used in the R 37. Automatic package change The particularly low working height of the R 37 combined with the AMIspin piecing device makes the machine easier to work with. As a result, up to 8% more spinning positions can be served by the same number of operators compared to other machines. Newly an optional robot, the ROBOdoff, changes the full packages without interrupting the spinning process. In this case all doffed packages have the same defined package length. ROBOdoff enables more efficient work organization and replaces the exhausting process of manual doffing along the machine.


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Responsibility from raw material purchasing to customer product Responsible Care Award 2019 goes to CHT

Sustainability does not begin and end at the CHT Group's factory gates, as the Group focuses on both its supply chain and its customers. CHT's wide-ranging spectrum has now been submitted to the Responsible Care competition 2019 under the title "Demanding and promoting sustainability - we take responsibility from purchasing to customer application" and convinced the jury. For the second time in a row the CHT Group was able to win the mid-sized companies award of the VCI Baden-WĂźrttemberg as well as the nationwide award. This year, sustainability in the supply chain was the central topic. To ensure sustainability along the supply chain the CHT Group's suppliers have been evaluated comprehensively in terms of their sustainability since 2014. All suppliers worldwide are analysed accordingly to uniform criteria and receive an overall rating that includes ecological and social criteria in addition to classic performance criteria such as quality safety, delivery reliability and competitive prices. As a minimum requirement for the status "Sustainable Supplier", in addition to a positively evaluated and documented self-disclosure, the countersigned Code of Conduct of CHT as well as valid certificates according to ISO 9001 and ISO 14001 have to be provided. Suppliers that do not meet the required status are August/September 2019

either replaced directly, or packages of measures are defined in a targeted manner, the implementation of which is then evaluated in a subsequent review. The current sustainability rate for CHT suppliers was 88% at the end of 2018. On the sales side, CHT focuses on process chemicals and additives that help customers worldwide optimise their manufacturing processes while saving resources, energy, time and water. This sustainable approach has been gradually extended in recent years to include CHT's service functions. In addition to mere certification, CHT offers its customers comprehensive support and transparency with the QRPI tool (Quality & Regulatory Product Information), especially in the business field of Consumer Care Solutions. The QRPI report concisely presents all information of the CHT product regarding quality, product safety, certification, legal regulations and chemical composition. This new product passport helps customers not only with the application. The added value is immense, especially in the regulatory evaluation of their formulations and products with regard to subsequent declarations and certifications. For CHT, sustainability therefore begins with the purchase of raw materials, it is an integral part of its own production and value creation and is also documented and made transparent for customers.


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Quality Control Made Easy Real-Time Indication of Quality Variations Running a spinning mill can be quite challenging, when it comes to quality control and quality assurance. The complexity of these tasks increases with the number of different yarns produced

Loepfe MillMaster TOP

simultaneously. Controlling the quality during the various production processes is labor intensive and requires experienced staff. On the other hand, highest yarn qualities are crucial, to maintain the customer satisfaction and to avoid costly complaints. To manage these challenges, GRG Cotspin, India, utilized the unique features of Loepfe´s MillMaster TOP. Monitoring system eases quality control at GRG Cotspin GRG Cotspin, which has been founded in 2013 in Dehli, India, is operating a spinning mill in Anjar in the August/September 2019

Indian state of Gujarat. Some 750 employees produce carded and combed cotton and Tencel blend yarns with count range Ne 9-30. Main customer is Welspun, India, a share of their weaving yarns also get exported mainly to the Bangladesh market. GRG´s mission is to manufacture products comparable to international standards, to be customer-focused and globally competitive through better quality, latest technology, and continuous innovation. Therefore the new spinning mill has been equipped with state-of-the-art machinery. In the winding department there are 22 Schlafhorst AC6 Link winders with YarnMaster ZENIT+ yarn clearers from Loepfe. Due to the large portfolio of produced yarns, quality control is quite challenging, as Dilip Kulkarni, Vice President at GRG Cotspin, explains: “It was very difficult after starting the unit working with different yarn counts and clearer settings as per their set standards.” And Mr. Prosanta Sarkar, Quality Control Manager, complements: “To find any changes in clearer settings made by mistake, is time consuming and requires a lengthy process after checking each and every winding machine.” Yarn, which has been produced with wrong clearer settings, can´t be segregated immediately to avoid major loss in quality that can lead to complaints. MillMaster TOP offers new transparency To overcome the above-mentioned challenges, the


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management of GRG Cotspin decided to utilize the features of Loepfe´s MillMaster TOP. The innovative quality monitoring system delivers online data from all connected yarn clearers in real-time. The system can be used to automatically generate reports, which indicate all changes to yarn clearer settings. Accidentally changed setting can be localized immediately and corrected, before costly errors in yarn quality can occur. A first indication for a change is already signalized in

the room view. An icon on the respective machine or machine group calls the attention of the user. A click on the icon automatically opens the relevant shift book, which contains all changes to the settings together with a time stamp. The user can easily review, when the change has been made and how much yarn has been wound since the change. The shift book contains all changes, which have been done during the last four days. In addition, all yarn clearer settings are stored in the shift reports for later review.

Loepfe MillMaster TOP

Shift report

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The graphical presentation of the yarn clearing results contains also an indication of changed clearing values and of differences between the actual settings and the presets for the production lot.

Graphical presentation

Changes in clearer setting can result as a fault by the personnel, but they can also originate from tests of new setting, which have been performed on a single machine. If the new settings are appropriate, they have to be transferred to all other machines, which are currently producing the same lot. MillMaster TOP makes this task, which has been time consuming in the past, very easy: With a few clicks the new settings are copied to all YarnMaster ZENIT+ yarn clearers – production can continue immediately, and rejections are minimized. Many beneficial functions Monitoring of all parameter changes in MillMaster TOP is one of the key functions for GRG Cotspin. With the help of the data filter, the quality control personnel

Quality

August/September 2019

are able to select data from previous shifts, day or a specific time. The reports help to analyze, how clearer settings affect the yarn quality and the winding production. “Overall, we benefit from the various functions of MillMaster TOP, which enable us, to better control and monitor our yarn clearer system”, summarizes Mr. Dilip Kulkarni. Functionality: MillMaster TOP The MillMaster TOP online data management system monitors and analyses the quality data from Loepfe yarn clearers, and provides online data from connected yarn clearers in real-time. The modern software can visualise and analyse quality data from up to 7,200 spindles. The data management system has a comprehensive functionality. Data from all winders are recorded automatically. The room view gives an overview for all winding machines. Different colors and symbols indicate the performance of the different machines or yarn production lots. The performance criteria and thresholds can be set individually. A double-click on a machine or a production lot opens a dashboard view with detailed data. There the user can access all quality data in one view. Setting-up MillMaster TOP is very easy. All connected machines are recognised automatically, and afterwards all data is available immediately. With its modern client server architecture the system is the ideal solution for winding machines. The data is not only available on the server, but can also be displayed on various workstations simultaneously. MillMaster TOP can be individually customized with various options, which are installed automatically via Loepfe´s cloud service.


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Marzoli: partner in the project of the Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company

Marzoli, one of the leading manufacturers of the complete line of machines for spinning of short staple fiber, is part of the project to modernize some plants owned by the Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, increase their competitiveness and their worldwide success. The meeting that laid the groundwork for the collaboration between Marzoli and the Cotton Textile Industry Holding Company, took place in Cairo on April 15th 2019 with the presence of the President of the Arab Republic of Egypt, Mr. Abdel Fattah Al-Sisi. The agreement was signed during ITMA by the Chairman of the Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, Dr. Ahmed Moustafa Mohamed, and the General Manager of Marzoli, Eng. Cristian Locatelli. Marzoli was able to fit into this ambitious project because of its ability to provide high-performance solutions and know-how and the confidence earned through important projects with leading Egyptian textile companies such as: DNM Textile for Spinning, Egypt Indigo Textile, Elzahra Elbaydaa, Gaid Cotton, Giza Spinning, Koudsitex (Al Baraka Group for Spinning & Weaving), Skytex Spinning, United group for spinning, Weaving and Dyeing (Eroglu Group). This collaboration is an important phase of Marzoli's commitment plan to the Egyptian textile industry, whose next step is going to be the opening, by the August/September 2019

end of 2019, of a branch in Cairo. The local presence will enable Marzoli to better serve in an effective and timely way its customers and underpin their performance. This choice is the result of a careful analysis of the political and commercial dynamics and the awareness that Egypt will play a major role in the high-quality T&C industry. In fact, the reforms and policy measures undertaken in the last few years have made T&C the second biggest industrial sector in Egypt. The Industry today represents 25% of the country’s overall exports and Egypt is internationally recognized as a leading international textile hub. Moreover, the strategic position of the country has allowed to develop and maintain strong relationships in three directions: - African continent: Egypt is the first African country to attract investments (last year, 42% of global investment in Africa went to Egypt, amounting to 7.4 billion dollars) - Europe: represents the main commercial partner for Egypt. Italy, in particular, is among the top five suppliers of Egypt, and last year made investments amounting to 3,93 billion euros. - USA: Egypt is closer to USA than its counterparts, which makes it a preferred sourcing location.


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Change Is The Only Constant

Inspiring Change Conference 2019 The 2nd edition of Inspiring Change Conference held on August 02-03, 2019 at PC Lahore, Pakistan provided a platform to textile industrialists to interact with a number of key national and international experts who will share wealth of their knowledge, experience and, more importantly, solutions about various issues related to the industry. The opening keynote sessions held by Dr Salman Shah (Adviser on Economic Affairs and Planning Govt. of Punjab), Ms Anne Marchal (Chargé d'Affaires a.i.,Delegation of the European Union to Pakistan), Mr Navid Fazil (C.E.O - Interloop Limited, Pakistan) and Mr Holger Fischer (Managing Director - Euro Centra Ltd. - Wünsche Group) held a common thread which suggested that the future of Pakistan is bright when the whole nation including the government, private sector and associations work together. Key speakers at the conference included Mr Richard Clarke (Vice President - Cotton Council International, U.S.A), Mr Herman Selker (Head of Marketing Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG, Germany), Mr Azfar Hasan (C.E.O - Matrix Sourcing, Pakistan), Mr William Rhea Bettendorf (Director - Cotton Council International, U.S.A), Mr Kanwar Muhammad Usman (Textile Division Ministry of Commerce), Mr Mazhar

August/September 2019

Mirza (CEO Sypher and CCI representative of Pakistan), Mr Roger Gilmartin (Managing Director TriBlend Consultants, U.S.A), Mr Karl Borgschulze (Managing Director - Consulting Service Ltd., Hong Kong), Dr Khurram Tariq (C.E.O Kay & Emms Pvt. Limited., Pakistan), Mr Adnan Khurshid (SPGPrints Pakistan Pvt. Ltd.), Mr Mujeebullah Khan (C.E.O iTextiles Pvt Ltd.), Mr Iqbal Khurram (CEO-YS Group, Pakistan), Mr Haroon Ellahi Sheikh (CEO - Nagina Group), Mr Mike Rodriguez (Technical Consultant Cotton Council International, U.S.A.), Prof Dr Asif Ali (Vice Chancellor - MNS University of Agriculture Multan), Dr Shafique Ahmed (Regional Director Pakistan and Central Asia - Better Cotton Initiative), Mr Hamed K. Lateef (CEO- Tti Testing Laboratories), Mr Usman Ghani (C.E.O - TexCraft Solutions Pvt. Ltd.), Mr Adil Ghani (General Manager Plant - Nishat Mills Ltd), Mr Khalid Mahmood (Executive Director Master Textile Mills), Mr Zubair Bandukda (Ex. President – Textile Institute of Pakistan) and Ms Fareha Zafar Saeed (Group Head HR & CCPA, Sapphire, SFL Group). Over the course of two days conference discussions between textile stakeholders from around the globe were held in to offer solutions to the challenges which the textile industry is facing. Some of the discourse including panel discussions are as follows:


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Panel Discussion 1 - Importance of Textile Raw Materials and Future Trends Mr Richard Langan Clarke (Vice President - Cotton Council International, U.S.A.), Mr Roger Gilmartin (Managing Director - TriBlend Consultants, U.S.A.), Mr Mike Rodriguez (Technical Consultant - Cotton Council International, U.S.A.), Prof Dr Asif Ali (Vice Chancellor - MNS University of Agriculture Multan), Dr Shafique Ahmed (Regional Director Pakistan and Central Asia - Better Cotton Initiative) and Mr Iqbal Khurram (CEO –YS Group, Pakistan). Mr Khurram Iqbal presided over the discussion. Upon asking about the US cotton preferences Mr Richard added that the quality of cotton due to application of technological advancements at every step from seed to plant and cotton production, pushed US Cotton to be at the top and the most preferred one. Mr Roger added that the consistency of supply chain and reliability is also the reason. Furthermore, he expressed upon asking about the high neps, IPI, consistency and lower strength of yarn, that the people buy wrong cotton for what they are trying to

spin. Lack of knowledge for conditioning, bale lay down, and regular process control is the cause of these issues for which Cotton USA is increasing the education and technical support to customers. He also stated that instead of cheap labor, automation and technical excellence should be adopted. Dr Asif stated comprehensive knowledge about the bottlenecks in cotton production and major challenges faced by the farmers. The lesser land holding, climate change, water scarcity, multiple crop production on same land per year, soil sustainability issue, technology, lack of advisory, credit availability, proper incentives to the farmers and post-harvest problems are the main causes of lesser cotton growth than other competitors. Dr Shafiq suggested, these four major factors should be considered that are needed for sustainability i.e. Water efficient techniques, production technology, safety measures for the future of cotton as well as our generation. An informative and valuable technical session was done on raw materials in which all the participants gave solutions and suggestions related to the topic. August/September 2019


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Panel Discussion 2 - Impact of Key Global Trends on Local Textile Industry Ms Anne Marchal (Chargé d'Affaires a.i., Delegation of the European Union to Pakistan), Dr Salman Shah (Adviser on Economic Affairs and Planning - Govt. of Punjab), Mr Navaid Fazil (CEO - Interloop Limited, Pakistan), Mr Holger Fischer (Managing Director Euro Centra Ltd.), Mr Karl Borgschulze (Managing Director - Consulting Service International Ltd., Hong Kong) and Mr Azfar Hasan. (CEO Matrix Sourcing, Pakistan). The moderator of this session was Mr Azfar Hasan. The discussion was started with the rise of potential due to US-China trade war causing major shift. Ms Anne gave suggestions for trade that ease in travel safety aspects. She stated that counselor matters are equally important for countries with geographical conditions like Pakistan. Dr Salman added to the discussion that US has indicated positively about trade increment by 20 times in future as compared to the last years when US considered Pakistan Textile as big threat. The Senator of South Caroline is leading this case for Pakistani trade. Lack of technology, energy and water crises, financial shortage and Govt. provision August/September 2019

of services are the weak areas for lesser exports. Leadership and SME has to come from the industry instead of focusing only on Govt. for better exports. Mr Navaid expressed about laws and orders due to which customers were reluctant to come to Pakistan for Business. But, Scenario has been changed due to US-China Trade war and improvements on laws and orders, energy shortage and higher product cost of competitors. Mr Holger stressing on the significance of sustainability said that “sustainable textile production is the future” for global trade and due to improved sustainable efforts, customers have been looking for the chance to trade with Pakistan. Mr Karl expressed that though the potential exists but all the chances have not been grabbed yet. He further informed about a recent project funded by the German Govt. - “Sustainable Pakistan”, with the purpose to globally promote the garment and fashion industry of Pakistan. He briefly stated that very stable performance, efficient management system, certain mind set, labor-industry relationship, environmental concerns and strong work force with knowledge of latest global fashion trends are obligatory for fast fashion business.


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Panel Discussion 3 - Emerging Challenges and Opportunities in Textiles Mr Haroon Ellahi Sheikh (CEO - Nagina Group), Mr Usman Ghani (C.E.O - TexCraft Solutions Pvt. Ltd.), Mr Hamed K. Lateef (CEO- Tti Testing Laboratories), Ms Fareha Zafar Saeed (Group Head HR & CCPA, Sapphire, SFL Group) and Dr Khurram Tariq (CEO Kay & Emms Pvt Ltd).

Mr Usman added that Textile is considered as a 2nd priority profession because there is not HR concept at all. It has not been evolved as a culture because only profit has been considered but no one is caring about worker’s quitting or their retaining. Multi stake holder responsibility should be adopted to bring change instead of dehumanization by organized after getting bigger and well structured.

Dr Khuram Tariq chaired the third panel discussion on Emerging Challenges and Opportunities in Textiles.

Ms Fareha shedding light on the business philosophy said that challenges are a part of every organization and the organization should be capable enough to face them. Young generation with different mind sets, skills and talents must be grabbed and retained in an organization by giving them the free work environment, sense of care, skill developmental programs because technological advancements are not only needed by business but also for the young talent. Spending money on HR, providing carrier path, understanding their requirements and respecting the human as people instead of commodity can make them loyal, engaged and profitable.

Textile sector has not proved itself as a good employer because the certain needed things have not been done. Mr Haroon stated that economical rescale of companies is very much needed and synergistic approach is required for better employer and exporter. Academic, private, public-private partnership is desired to go forward. Private sector organization could be leader of change.

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Panel Discussion 4 – Innovation: Key to Create Competitive Excellence Mr Holger Fischer (Managing Director - Euro Centra Ltd.), Mr Hermann Selker (Head of Marketing Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG, Germany), Mr Adil Ghani (General Manager Plant - Nishat Mills Ltd), Mr Khalid Mahmood (Executive Director - Master Textile Mills), Mr Zubair Bandukda (Ex. President – Textile Institute of Pakistan) and Mr. Mujeebullah Khan (C.E.O - iTextiles Pvt. Ltd.) The last session was managed by Mr Mujeebullah. Mr Holger Fischer recommended that commitment and change of attitude is required to treat everybody equally because ‘the positive change could be seen in Pakistan by treating everybody equally’’. Will and commitment can give huge profit without much investment. Mr Hermann suggested that huge investment should be done on the young professionals for the future of industry. Because investing on IT, and institutions can generate creative people with new ideas to convert traditional products to innovative textiles. Mr Adil spoke in favor of cotton use due to its biodegradability, sustainability, comfort, hand, dye ability and the other characters. Industry should be forwardly integrated by knowing what the resources are and how to value them. Cotton is our core production and strength it should be diversified according to customer’s demand for better export.

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Mr Khalid gave his opinion keeping Vietnam, Cambodian clothing exports into mind that our perspective of global trade should be changed and instead of textile only, clothing and textile should be focused as global trade consists of about 60% clothing and 40% cotton products. He further criticized cotton use as all trade of Pakistan is revolving around cotton, and diversification is needed according to global tendencies. Upon asking about the global key trends, Mr Zubair gave his views in favor of innovative fibers instead of cotton due to better performance attributes and customer requirements. He added that universities like NTU, TIPS, etc. have been educating the young generation but vocational training should be provided by industries after their induction as they know what they need from the young professional. Industry-institutions collaboration is very much needed for which about 20 master program projects have been announced for NTU for innovative technical textile buildup. After every session 5-10 minutes were given for the question answering to make the audience more understanding about the discussed topics. All the panels were very informative and valuable suggestions by participants if implemented could be helpful for the bright future of Pakistani textile exports. The 3rd edition of Inspiring Change Conference will be held on March 10-11, 2020.


AD


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World Cotton Day, WTO, TEXtalks, Cotton USA, SPGPrints, Truetzschler, FPCCI World Cotton Day - Production of Sustainable Cotton is crucial to attain the three pillars of Sustainability: Environmental, Social and Economic

TEXtalks International in association with WTO, COTTON Council International, SPGPrints, Trützschler and FPCCI organized an Awareness Program on “World Cotton Day with the aim to promote WTO’s World Cotton Day Global Campaign. The event was held on October 07, 2019 at Federation House, Karachi. The theme of the event was – The Economic and Social Impact of Cotton. At the initiative of Cotton-4 (Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad and Mali) WTO has launched the World Cotton Day with recognition from the United Nations August/September 2019

General Assembly, reflecting the importance of cotton as a global commodity. The purpose of organizing this awareness programme was fourfold: - To give exposure and recognition to cotton and all its stakeholders in production, transformation and trade. - To engage donors and beneficiaries and strengthen the development assistance for cotton. - To seek new collaborations with the private sector and investors for the cotton related industries and


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production in developing countries. - To promote technological advances, as well as further research and development on cotton. Cotton is a global commodity responsible for economic growth and plays significant role in national integration as well as GDP increases.

improve the livelihoods and economic development in cotton producing areas and ensure the future of cotton.

To achieve 100pc sustainable cotton production stakeholders across the supply chain need to support this initiative to promote measureable and continuing improvements for the environment, farming communities and the economies of cotton producing areas. Sustainable cotton needs to be made a mainstream commodity.

The event was a major success with more than 250 top decision makers from the industry. Some of the key speakers and participants at the event include Mr William Bettend (Cotton Council International, U.S.A), Engr. Daroo Khan Achakzai (President F.P.C.C.I), Dr Mirza Ikhtiar Baig (Senior Vice President, F.P.C.C.I), Mr Tariq Mahmood (Pak Kuwait Group), Mr Mazhar Mirza (Cotton Council International – USA), Mr Cung (Vietnam), Mr Kumjorn Chuenchoochit (Thailand), Dr Abdul Jabbar (Director – Textile Institute of Pakistan), Mr Mohammad Ayub Khan (Director – Ishtiaq Textile Mills Ltd), Mr Taher Punjwani (Chief Executive – The Mechanica Pvt Ltd), Mr Vo Manh Hung William (Vietnam), Mr Do Van Ve (Vietnam), Mr Nguyen Van Thi(Vietnam), Mr Le Hoang Anh (Vietnam), Mr Do Duc Dung (Vietnam), Mr Pham The Hiep (Vietnam), Mr Le Ha Trung (Vietnam), Mr Pham The Hien, Mr Kraipob Pangsapa (Thailand), Mr Kumjorn Chuenchoochit (Thailand), Mr Nuntavouthi Chantanavarangkul (Thailand), Mr Bandid Pongsarojanavit (Thailand), Mr Kamin Pongsarojanavit (Thailand), Mr Treerapan Pumao (Thailand), Mr Phansak Sangsub (Thailand), Mr Abdul Shakoor Khatri (Sr. Director – Chemi Group of Industries), Haji Shoukat Hussain (Technical Advisor Al-Ahmed Textile Mills Ltd), Mr Yousaf Fareed (CEO TEXtalks International) and many more.

Sustainable cotton will not only reduce the environmental impact of cotton production but also

The seminar was concluded with a cake cutting ceremony celebrating World Cotton Day.

Produced globally, world cotton production is 25 million tonnes. Cotton being a global commodity the annual trade of cotton is USD18 billion with an annual revenue of USD50 billion. Across 5 continents, produced in 75 countries worldwide, 26 million growers are producing 25 million tonnes of cotton annually, benefiting over 100 million families. Major producers of cotton are China, India, USA, Brazil and Pakistan whereas, major exporters of cotton are USA, Brazil, India, Australia and C-4. Cotton produced on sustainable standards is better for the people who produce it in terms of finance and it is also better for the environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future as well.

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Pakistan Regional Members Meeting Be a part of something better

On September 25, 2019 – BCI hosted Pakistan Regional Members Meeting in Pearl Continental Lahore, Pakistan. The purpose of the event was to bring the BCI members together from the entire cotton supply chain that includes farmers, retailers & brands, ginners, spinners, fabric mills, garment manufacturers to learn and network. Following to the Regional Members Meeting, BCI also hosted a Field Trip to “Toba Tek Singh” for a chance to get into the cotton fields on September 26, 2019. This trip allowed the participants to interact with farmers who are implementing Better Cotton Standard System in the field and how it’s making an impact on their livelihoods. The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is the largest cotton sustainability programme in the world. Together with its partners BCI provides training on more sustainable farming practices to more than two million cotton farmers in 21 countries. In the 2017-18 cotton season, licensed BCI Farmers produced more than five million metric tonnes of ‘Better Cotton’ – that accounts for around 19% of global cotton production.

The welcome address was given by Dr. Shafiq Ahmad (BCI Regional Director), Muhammad Shuaib (BCI Supply Chain Manager) and Syed Ahtisham (BCI Membership Coordinator) followed by some latest news and updates of BCI. More than 200 participants attended the meeting. Some key speakers and participants at the event included Mr Haroon Ellahi Sheikh (Director - Nagina Group), Dr Asif Ali (Vice Chancellor - MNS university of agriculture Multan), Mr Atif Dada (Director - Dada Sons Limited and Ex-Chairman Karachi Cotton Exchange), Mr Syed Rizwan Wajahat (IKEA Supply AG Pakistan Liaison Office), Mr Faisal Javed (Director - Din Group), Mr Syed Bilal Chabra (CEO - Louis Dreyfus Company Pakistan), Mr Khawaja Shafqat (General Manager - Supply Interloop Limited), Mr Zafar Waga (Managing director - Lodhran Fibers), Mr Asad Imran (Senior Manager WWF Pakistan), Mr Syed Siraj (Materials responsible at H&M), Mr Naveed Alam (Water Sprint Limited) and Mr Muhammad Amir (Deputy Manager Supply chain - Artistic Milliners). Dr Shafiq quoted, “The Better Cotton Standard

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System is a holistic approach to sustainable cotton production which covers all three pillars of sustainability: environmental, social and economic. Each of the elements – from the Principles and Criteria to the monitoring mechanisms which show results and impact – work together to support the Better Cotton Standard System, and the credibility of Better Cotton and BCI. The system is designed to ensure the exchange of good practices, and to encourage the scaling up of collective action to establish Better

Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity.” The key topics presented at the event were importance of water stewardship in agriculture, cotton outlook of Pakistan, cotton production in Pakistan challenges and opportunities, idea for sustainable development of industry, business sector support to BCI Project and how sustainability works. Water is one of the most critical aspects of sustainable agriculture, both for the industry itself, and for its impacts on the natural environment and other water users. Agriculture is responsible for 70% of the world’s freshwater withdrawals, and up to 90% in some developing countries. Mr Naveed Alam (Water Sprint Limited) presented on the significance of water stewardship in agriculture. He said water stewardship has two key objectives in the agricultural sector: to protect a farming operation from water-related risks and to demonstrate social responsibility by minimizing negative impacts of a farming operation on other water users and the natural environment. He highlighted that BCI wants to work with farmers who can take care of water stewardship. He said that Pakistan agriculture right now needs better irrigation systems with better water storage especially flood irrigation where a huge amount of flood water can be stored as well as better maintained.

Mr Atif Dada (Director - Dada Sons Limited) highlighted that Pakistan being an agricultural country and cotton contributes significantly in its GDP. He said that the current situation of Pakistan cotton is very volatile. Due to numerous reasons, the cotton crop supply has been gradually decreasing and its demand has been on an increasing trend. Due to the climatic challenges, the set cotton crop production target seems difficult to achieve and external factors such as political challenges is impacting cotton prices to the disadvantages of the farmers. To settle the price variance once and for all, work in progress, the government might announce indicative cotton prices to hedge the risk. Presenting on Cotton production in Pakistan Challenges and Opportunities, Dr Asif Ali (Vice Chancellor - MNS University) highlighted the importance of Better Cotton Initiative. He said that in the long run, cotton cannot survive without the sustainable practices of such initiatives and it’s imperative that now farmers adopt these practices not only for sustainable cotton but for a better and sustainable future for coming generations. He also stressed on the importance of university industry linkages and research and development centers. Industry has traditionally been considered the main contributor to environmental pollution and, therefore, it was among the first sectors to draw government intervention. Mr Haroon Ellahi Sheikh (Director Nagina Group) talking about sustainable development of industry said that alongside technological innovations, industrial ecology requires changes in the attitudes of planners, production personnel and industrialists. A change in perspective is required. The industry should itself begin to introduce new steps to make itself more efficient, less expensive and more environment-friendly. With further growth in population and industrial production, the adoption of strategies such as Waste Reduction Always Pays (WRAP), which was adopted by large corporations such as 3M and Dow, will become more acceptable. Panel discussions at the event included Farmers Role in Sustainable Cotton Production and Future of sustainable cotton consumption. The event concluded with the 10 years anniversary celebration of BCI with concluding remarks from Dr Shafiq followed by a brief session on COC updates and BCI audits. The attendees left inspired by meeting the farmers, civil societies and the implementing partners from across the country. August/September 2019


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The Textile Institute awarded Prof. Qutab the Institute Medal for Outstanding Services

Mr S. M Qutab receiving TI Medal at Salford, UK

The Governing Council of The Textile Institute with a unanimous decision has awarded Prof. Qutab the Institute Medal for his outstanding services to the Textile Industry in general and Pakistan in particular as the Chairman of Lahore Section of the Textile Institute. Because of his work and academic activities many Textiles Technologist / Engineers have become the Institute Members. He has encouraged deserving Members to apply for ATI (Associateship of the Textile Institute) and seniors for FTI (Fellowship of the Textile Institute). Prof. Syed Qutab has been in Textile since 1953 and earned reputation of the most competent and knowledgeable in Weaving thus referred it to as Baba-e-weaving. His management skills have been recognized as par excellence. He teaches at the University of Management & Technology, Lahore. His contribution in his personal capacity and the Chairman of The Textile Institute organizes Seminars and Conferences in Lahore and Faisalabad. Founded in 1910, The Textile Institute was incorporated by Royal Charter 1925. The Royal Charter provides many mechanisms for the encouragement of excellence and achievement, including the Award of Professional Qualification that is recognized under the relevant directive of the European community as August/September 2019

Mr Taher Punjwani, Ms Katie Greenyer (The World President of The TI), Ms Rebecca Bennett, Mr S. M Qutab and Mr Abid Ghanai

well as the Public Service Commission throughout the commonwealth degrees from universities in approximately thirty countries including USA and/or China are accredited by The Institute. The textile institute has individual and corporate members in 80 countries. Within global industries the aim of the institute is to facilitate learning to enable recognition of achievements to reward excellence. The Textile Institute Medal The oldest award was inaugurated in 1921 given to a member out of 80 countries in recognition of distinguished service to the Industry in general and to the institute. The prestigious award is valued because of the following reasons: - It recognizes work-related competence, integrity and expertise at a professional level. - Facilitate public recognition of holder’s worth. - Acknowledges achievements of a recognized international standards. Mr Syed Mahfooz Qutab is a Chartered Textile Technogist - UK, fellow of Textile Institute – UK and Fellow of International Council of Textile Technogist, Atlanta, Georgia, USA. Pakistan council of scientific and industrial research PCSIR assigned Mr Qutab a job of development of “Do by Design” on a newly developed/patented machine which he accomplished successfully.


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“FlamePro Splash Protect” developed by COATS thread

Protective textile have been a major concern since last many years. In this regard, an innovative heat and flame resistant fabric “Coats FlamePro Splash Protect” was borne out of innovation hub of Coats as a first commercially launched product complementing their existing range of flame-retardant sewing threads. Personal protection was the main target of FlamePro Splash Protect. The engineered fabric was showcased at National Safety Council Congress & Expo in San Diego, California, in September, 2019 that is lightweight, flexible and

durable to washing. This ground-breaking protective product provides softness, good feel, comfort and aesthetic due to satin feel of fabric along with protection and safety. This high performance fabric can withstand molten aluminium at very high temperature i.e. approximately 760 oC. The specifically designed product with its revolutionary attributes can protect radian heat, flame, metal molten splashes and other smelting vulnerabilities. Therefore, it could be useful for aluminium, iron and steel manufacturers as well as foundries.

Frank Keohan; B&O’s principal chemist to present advanced repellents for sustainability

Due to exponentially growing demands for sustainability in all sectors of textile industry, new technologies and processes have been developed to support this idea. Frank Keohan, Senior Technology Manager at Bolger & O’Hearn, specialty chemicals, has discussed next-generation repelling agents and finishing processes at the premier industrial, specialty and advanced textiles event IFAI Expo 2019 held from 24 October in Orlando, FL. Most of the brands serving textile industry had to sacrifice sustainability for multi-functional textile fabrication. But, due to generation of novel August/September 2019

repellents and finishing techniques, the performance of textile and environmental impact is improved. Frank Keohan presented industrial revolutions in his presentation entitled “Using Advanced Repellent Finishes to Improve Textile Product Sustainability”. Though, the repellents impart water, stains, dust and abrasion resistance to the textile, but, they could have hazardous eco-effect. Therefore, the attendees basics behind hydrophobic finishing and new technologies with greater support to sustainability.


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Modaris V8R2 by Lectra; a solution of pattern making, grading and 2D/3D prototyping Due to unusual merits of automation, every field of textile and clothing industry is adopting new techniques and software to have competitive edge in market. Lectra launched a new version of Modaris software that provides the solution of pattern making, grading and 2D/3D prototyping. Modaris V8R2 is aimed to deal with the high speed, efficient and precise product development due to eliminating the physical prototyping in less time to meet the fast fashion objective of clothing and apparel industry. This software has been used by leading brands with its powerful 3D simulation and collaboration tools. Patternmakers are developing patterns faster and speeding up their

decision-making procedures. Modaris V8R2 increases the quality of the solution’s 3D simulations and expands its library with new assets (fabrics, 3D top-stitching effects, realistic scenes, lighting studios, Pantone and Natural Color System). 360 degree videos can be shared with the customers online and after visualizing these the customers can comment or approve the 3D styles. Another innovative feature of this software is dart application that reduces half of the time (50-90% increase in patternmaking speed) compared to conventional dart manipulation, and the pattern makers can add dimensions to the clothing easily.

High IQ Cool Comfort presented by © Huntsman Multifunctional, environ adaptable smart textiles based on the requirements of bluesign to produce safer products without having any negative impact on environment were delivered by © Huntsman. High IQ cool comfort sustainable textiles were built on the advanced moisture management agents that deliver durable, long lasting functionality suitable for Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex certified textile products. The High IQ products are capable of UV protection, water repellency, and abrasion resistance available in white and various durable colors. The High IQ programme is based on novel dyes, pigments and technical support from the Huntsman Textile Effects to create the competitive edge.

The applied durable water repellent and sun protection finishes make the fabric hydrophobic and UV protective (UPF upto 50). High IQ Lasting White performance assurance programme brings very high and bright whites on cellulosic fibres, combining Huntsman’s latest generation of renowned UVITEX Fluorescent Whitening Agents. High IQ lasting color based on Huntsman’s award-winning Avitera SE reactive dyes and Novacron dyes serve the durable functionality of brilliant color with lesser water and energy consumption. All the performances provided by High IQ programme are long lasting with eco-friendliness and sustainability. August/September 2019


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Development of sustainable jean with Lycra T400 fiber and EcoMade technology As consumers are becoming more and more conscious about the impact of fashion and textile on environment. Therefore, industrialists are trying to find out the ways for sustainable and ecofriendly options. F&F at Tesco and Lycra brand have signed an agreement to integrate Lycra T400 fiber with EcoMade technology into the contour denim line of F&F with Lycra fabric to give most sustainable jean range. Along with being environmental friendly, the high quality product developed by Lycra T400 fiber with EcoMade technology will offer low cost, comfortability and shape according to body contour without any sagging and bagging. Lycra T400 EcoMade has been manufactured by recycling of materials like PET bottles and renewable plant-based materials. The original Lycra dualFX technology enhance the performance results but the T400 fiber with EcoMade technology will offer the same performance results with value added sustainability. BCI cotton has been used for the manufacturing of jeans on Jeanologia machinery that works on sustainable technology, with the objective of less water usage during denim production. Helen Latham, The Lycra Company Accounts Manager, Denim and Wovens, UK, said “Denim’s appeal is universal, and its popularity continues to grow as casual wear gains acceptance in new environments including the office.”

Polyester recycled “PrimaLoft Next series” launched by PrimaLoft August/September 2019

Eliminating the use of fresh natural resources, creating the idea of closed loop and sustainability, the PrimaLoft, leader in advanced material technology announced their 100% polyester “PrimaLoft Next” that could be disintegrated into basic components by chemical recycling process. The PrimaLoft Next Evolve Series is bluesign and Oeko-Tex certified. PrimaLoft Next, a new textile platform gives thermal insulation, breathability, comfort, flexibility and versatility to the fabric meeting the demands of designers and consumers. It provides the creative freedom of distinct designing in apparel being light weight, breathable and warm. The PrimaLoft Next Evolve series in either natural or durable dyed options will be displayed at Outdoor Retailer Summer Market in binging of summer 2020. PrimaLoft Next, all season garments will be aesthetically appealing allowing the consumers to choose from a much wider array of unique styles and color palettes, with high levels of functionality. Mimicking the nature of animal fur, these products have been fashioned with different lengths and denier of fibers. This provides highs and lows to produce open structures for maximum air flow during movement and air entrapment during rest maintaining the thermal performances.


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Refibra technology by © Lenzing gave new life to cotton scrap Due to climate changes and sustainability concerns, most of the brands are now focusing on environmental protection. © Lenzing announced a new Refibra technology as being pioneer in recycling of used cotton. This offering is available among the family of Tencel Lyocell fibres with low fibrillation properties. The strength, silky smooth appearance, comfort and breathability are major attributes along with moisture management and low fibrillation properties making them most suitable for knitting applications. Tencel Lyocell fibres with Refibra technology offer the most sustainable fibers for which the raw material comes from sensibly harvested wood combined with cultivated cotton scraps. Tencel Lyocell fibres with Refibra technology are compostable and biodegradable in soil and water making the contribution to circular economy. © Lenzing has developed a new identification system to assure customers that the products they buy are made with sustainable Tencel fibres produced with Refibra technology.

Eco-care technology announced specialty fiber “Veocel” Lenzing Group is greatly involved in environmental care and sustainability for the product development. Eco-care technology by Lenzing Group was designed for improved production of eco-friendly viscose fibers after series of innovative and transparent efforts. Eco Care technology structures the eco-responsible production processes guided by the rules underlying the EU Ecolabel to meet high standards for ecofriendly environment though out their life. The development of eco-friendly viscose fibers is responsible for lower water and wastes emission i.e. 50%

less than the previous production processes of generic viscose. Also, CO2 emission and use of resources is half than conventional production. Veocel specialty viscose fibers with Eco Care technology is going to serve the non-woven industry for various application with an affordable and sustainable alternative. This specialty fiber can be used as versatile blending partner for other cellulosic fibers, such as lyocell, which is useful for various types of dry and wet wipes, sanitary pads for adult and feminine uses, and diapers. August/September 2019


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Wearable solutions for sport and medical wear by ©Teijin

Example in wearing

Comparison in golf swing

Vital sensing wear

Wearable e-textiles have been a focus of much attention due to their greater potential for healthcare, sportswear, fitness and aerospace applications. ©Teijin dealing with clothing products, promotes the development of wearable devices by integrating highly functional materials and sensing techniques. The company provides solutions by developing coach wears that visualizes difference between the actual motion and ideal motions of sportsman by means of accurate sensing technology combined with Teijin’s ultra-fine polyester nanofibre “Nanofront”. This highly slip-resistant fabric provides free movement and comfort along with functionality. Teijin presented a line of wearable materials for medical and sportswear. The sensing clothing provides the sustainable and accurate sensing of heart rate during exercise reducing the noise generated by body contact with sportswear. The personal data can be collected simultaneously by wireless communication technology to predict the physical status of sportsman. August/September 2019

Team management application

The Piezoelectronic braided cord sensors called kumihimo, detects wearer’s motions. The kicking and hitting impact can be monitored by sensors installed in soccer shoes and rackets of player respectively. The highly sensitive, soft and flexible piezoelectric cords enable the sensors to be molded in a wide variety of thicknesses, lengths and shapes. Smart firefighters’s uniform made from heat & flame retardant Teijinconex meta-aramid fiber and high-tenacity Technora para-aramid fiber predicts heatstroke risk by assessing the body temperature via installed devices in uniform. The sensing device is made by Teijin’s IT business, using impact-resistant polycarbonate resin Panlite. Wearable ECG-textile with incorporated electrodes enables to measure quick and precise 12-lead electrocardiogram (ECG) that is needed prior to cure cardiac diseases. Usually the huge number of electrodes make it difficult to perform ECG precisely therefore, wearable ECG-textile addressed the issue by following the guidelines on the strip e-textile wrapped around the patient’s chest without electrode adjustment.


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“Proearth Biodegradable Polyester Textiles” by ©Schoeller Keeping into view the major concern of the day, Environmental sustainability; © Schoeller, a leading textile solutions manufacturer, introduced an innovative textile by the name of “Proearth”. This biodegradable polyester fabric made its debut in Paris as a part of Schoeller FTC (SFTC) line that is a joint venture of Schoeller Textil and Taiwanese Formosa Taffeta. The unique product was fabricated in order to address the textile waste issues that are more than 16 million tons per annum in US. The SFTC is going to launch bluesign-approved fabrics for casual, fashion, indoor and outdoor activities. The virgin polyester fabric was made biodegradable after a

series of experimentations to optimize the degradation rate and better performance jacket, pant and lining material with different colors compared with their competitors. The Schoeller’s ecodye technology can be applied to Proearth fabrics to save cost by reducing process time, energy and 30% of water. The ecorepel Bio and 3XDRY Bio technologies can enhance the properties based on renewable primary product making it hydrophobic, self-cleaned and PFC-free. Christine Hübner, Schoeller CRO said that we are truly excited to introduce this collection that is not only friendly but also high-quality, luxurious product for all type of consumers to wear”.

Collaboration of Spinnova and Bergans for outdoor smarter textile solutions Making their part into sustainable outdoor textile products, Spinnova and Bergans of Norway have started their joint collaboration for new sustainable product development. In long tem relationship they have started to develop new sustainable concept together out of Spinnova’s “0% harmful” cellulose-based fibre without using any hazardous chemical to match and maintain the Bergans’ sustainable ambition. Spinnova fibre-made products will be introduced at later time. Looking for smarter solutions and making plans for the commercial industrial scaling, the Spinnova is focusing on end-product development with partnering brands after initial test line production. Spinnova’s CEO Janne Poranen said, “We’re excited about this collaboration and Bergans’ agile, open-minded way of trying new materials before they are commercial”. All the Bergans products are designed, developed and tested in Norway, regularly by the Bergans Ambassadors; a user group committed to testing products in active outdoor life.

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Shanghaitex 2019 The 19th International Exhibition on Textile Industry November 25-28, 2019 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, China.

Heimtextil 2020 Int'l event for interior textiles, interior design and interior trends January 07-10, 2020 Venue: Messe Frankfurt, Germany.

DOMOTEX 2020 The world of flooring - trade exhibition January 10-13, 2020 Venue: Hannover, Germany. Germany.

GTex Global Expo Karachi An International Textile Machinery Brand Expo January 18-20, 2020 Venue: Expo Center Karachi, Pakistan.

Connect 2020 Annual EFI Users’ Conference January 21-24, 2020 Venue: Wynn Las Vegas, USA.

Inspiring Change Conference An international conference on textiles March 10-11, 2020 Venue: Lahore, Pakistan.

August/September 2019

IGATEX Lahore 2020 International Garment, Textile Machinery & Accessories exhibition March 11-14, 2020 Venue: Expo Centre Lahore, Pakistan.

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR The second largest flooring trade exhibition worldwide March 24-26, 2020 Venue: New International Exhibition Centre (SNIEC) Shanghai, China.

FESPA Global Print Expo Leading trade fair for screen, digital and textile printing March 24-27, 2020 Venue: Madrid, Spain.

ITM 2020 International Textile Machinery exhibition June 02-06, 2020 Venue: TÜYAP Center, Istanbul, Turkey.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 International Textile Machinery exhibition October 15-19, 2020 Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

textalks.com/category/events.


Profile for TEXtalks International

TEXtalks International - August/September 2019  

TEXtalks International - August/September 2019  

Profile for textalks
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