95
Bodice and Sleeve Combined
Fig. 122. Standard raglan sleeve.
line as it approaches the armhole. Mark notches and cut apart.
style use Figure 121, B. The more closely the curve follows the shoulder and armscye, the more closely the blouse will fit. 3. Mark notches and cut apart on these lines. 4. Place the foundation sleeve pattern on a large piece of paper and extend the center lengthwise grain line of the sleeve beyond the top of the cap 6" or 7". Arrange the armhole sections above the cap of the sleeve so that the proper armhole notches match, B. Note that the two shoulder seams do not come together but spread out at the neck leaving a wide dart. In the case of quite square shoulders this dart forms a 90 degree angle. It is one of the major basic darts. 5. In order to make the sections of the blouse fit the sleeve cap more closely, slash them from the armscye seam toward the raglan blouse line, C. Cut the slashes so that they extend to but not through the raglan line and at right angles to it as much as possible. Many slashes make a smoother, finished edge, while few slashes make a
Standard Close Fitting Raglan I. Prepare the front, back, and sleeve patterns as for a kimono or dolman blouse, or deep armhole (Fig. 112). The method is similar to that for developing the dolman sleeve. 2. On front and back patterns sketch in the new raglan armscye, A (Fig. 122). It is a compound curve which follows the shoulder seam near the neck but curves to follow the armscye as it approaches the underarm seam. Do not try to make this a straight ruled line. In the back avoid having it come too close to the center back at the neck, or it will form an undesirable point or V there. Be sure that the front and back sections match at the underarm seam if cut low. The blouse will fit better or have fewer folds under the arm if the raglan line does not drop much below the normal armscye; if you want such a
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\ Fig. 123. Pivoting the basic raglan shoulder dart.
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