Page 1

may

2012

may

2012

Best of Baselworld / Philippe Starck / deLaCour profile / African adventures / Valerie Messika Elephant trekking / Auction watch / Men’s jewellery / Motoring-inspired watches / Superyachts

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Foreword

From the editor As a writer, it’s rare that you run short of superlatives. The ability to describe stunning products, destinations and situations is stock in trade for someone working in luxury media. This year’s trip to the prestige watch and jewellery expo that is Baselworld, though, saw my internal thesaurus dry up by day three. After dozens of back to back meetings where I had the privilege of checking out some of the world’s finest timepieces, I finally found myself lost for words. This was watch nirvana – huge football pitch-sized halls filled with the world’s greatest luxury brands. Some, like Rolex and Harry Winston, had spent vast sums building mammoth two storey ‘houses’ to showcase their wares, while others invested in quirky touches such as wall mounted fish tanks, indoor waterfalls and holographic projections. Between the gleaming designer world of the exhibitor stands and the intricate timepieces contained within, words such as ‘stunning’, ‘incredible’ and ‘beautiful’ no longer seemed to do the experience justice. With over 1,800 exhibitors, drawing up a shortlist of the best of Baselworld is a Herculean task, but one that is tremendously enjoyable. You can see our hotly contested selection on page 30. Elsewhere, we journey to southern Africa on a luxury adventure trip, head to Thailand’s jungles to be schooled in the ancient art of elephant riding and catch up with Jordan Sclare, head chef at London’s excellent Aqua Kyoto restaurant. We also talk cards, cars and cool watches with celebrated street magician Dynamo, investigate the growing trend for men’s jewellery and reveal the most exciting collaborations between watchmakers and luxury motor manufacturers. This, then, is the second edition of Tempus. You can add your own superlatives. Enjoy the issue.

issue two Editor

Scott Manson

scott.manson@astongreenlake.com Deputy Editor

Lizzie Rivera

lizzie.rivera@astongreenlake.com Art Director

Ross Trigg

ross.trigg@astongreenlake.com Editor-at-large

Eugene Costello Writer

Hannah Silver

Scott Manson Editor

Business Development Director

Mark Edwards

mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688

Contributors

Financial Director

Stephen Jones

Commercial Director

Scott English

Managing Director

Jay Boisvert

Alex Pell Alex Pell is the former deputy editor of leading technology title Stuff magazine. He now runs editorial agency Dashboard Media. Check out his pick of the ultimate home cinema kit on page 94.

Tempus is published monthly by Aston Greenlake Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er. TEL: 020 3617 4688

Frank Broughton Frank is a writer, publisher and bon viveur. His love of adventure makes him the perfect judge of a luxury trip to southern Africa. Voyage with him on page 84.

Ellie Brade Ellie is the editor of Superyacht Intelligence and Pacific Editor at The Superyacht Group. On page 97 she reveals the hottest trends in the world of largescale yachts.

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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Contents

Inside issue two

12 Take Me There

Heading to Victoria Falls? Take a leap of faith into Devil’s Pool 15 Luxury Briefing

Because, it turns out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all 21 Going Going...

Our pick of the best upcoming watch auctions 23 The Word

Trendspotting essays from seminal designer Philippe Starck, plus Ken Kessler and Eugene Costello

45

28 Objects of Desire

The rough luxe of Snyper watches 30 Basel’s Greatest Hits

The new styles and updated classic timepieces that rocked Baselworld 2012

74 Diamond Life

36 The Rise of Male Jewellery

Why Valerie Messika’s creations are some of this year’s hottest pieces

39 Food & Drink

The luxury safes fit to store and protect your watch collection

Why men are choosing it for themselves

Where to eat, drink and be merry 42 Fashion & Accessories

The bold and the beautiful 45 The Magic Touch

Magician Dynamo reveals the secrets of his success (but not his tricks) 48 Fine Tuning

Why watchmakers are embracing automotive chic 56 Fashion Special

Sizzling hot images shot on a Monte Carlo yacht 64 Orient Success

We talk to Jordan Sclare about his Jewish heritage and the spirituality of Japanese cuisine 68 The Bold Vision of deLaCour

Founder Pierre Koukijn on why slow production and low output equal prestige timepieces

80 Saving Time

94 Southern African Adventure

Frank Broughton travels on a steam train, swoops above Victoria Falls, and goes on a safari with a difference 90 Motoring

Lamborghini’s Aventador J steals the show in Geneva 93 Grooming

Discover the haircuts to suit your face shape 94 Ultimate Home Cinema

It’s all about the big screen and even bigger sound 97 Playtime

Decked out superyachts 100 Travel

Scott Manson goes elephant riding in Thailand’s Golden Triangle 106 Moments in Time

JFK and his Omega Ultra Thin

Cover

deLaCour - The Mourinho City Ego

Photography: Adam Dawe

Special thanks: Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice James Hines jameshines.co.uk Ellie Foreman-Peck elliefp.co.uk

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Take me there

Ever seen a moonbow? Visit the Mosi-oa Tunya, “the smoke that thunders”, or Victoria Falls, during a full moon and you will be rewarded with a night time replica of the one pictured here. In full flow during the rainy season, the curtain of water is at its most impressive during February and March, but the spray can obscure the view. So perhaps head to the Zambia-Zimbabwe border in November, when the curtain splits and you can jump into the ultimate infinity pool – Devil’s Pool. Accessible from Livingstone Island, it takes a true a leap of faith to believe that the natural rock wall just below the water will stop you being carried over the edge.

zambiatourism.com

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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Luxury briefing

Because the best things in life aren’t free

The recent Baselworld watch and jewellery expo saw the attending team from Tempus stroll around in awe at some of the world’s most jaw-dropping items. One of the most impressive was this, the world’s first all-diamond ring. Created by Swiss jewelers Shawish and retailing at around £40m, it was created from a single diamond using a specialist laser.

Rock of ages

shawish-jewellery.com

shawish

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Luxury briefing

Sport luxe

Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, the world’s first luxury sports watch, is celebrating its fortieth birthday this year. To commemorate the occasion, the company has unveiled the Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak which combines a beautiful ultra-thin movement with skeletonisation. This special anniversary edition comes encased in platinum and is available in a limited run of just forty pieces.

audemarspiguet.com

The rebirth of cool Persol

The epitome of classic cool, the footage of Steve McQueen smouldering behind his blue lenses was arguably the most iconic moment of The Thomas Crown Affair in 1968. So enamoured was he with his favourite accessory that McQueen was rarely seen without those Persols, both off set and on. Now his favourite pair, the PO 714, have been relaunched to celebrate their coolest devotee. Available in a limited edition of 10,000 handmade pieces, the glasses come complete with those famous blue lenses.

persol.com

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Luxury briefing

Tower of sound

Jarre Technologies Give your iPad a treat with this premier piece of kit, dubbed the AeroDream One. Custom made by Jarre Technologies, it stands at a whopping 340cm tall and has a total power of 10,000w with a 5-channel amplifier. Available to order in chrome, black or white, it’s the ultimate tower station for your Apple device.

harrods.com

New beginnings Montblanc

Montblanc’s new timepiece, unveiled this year at SIHH, has impressed watch industry insiders who now see Montblanc as a serious contender in the prestige timepiece market. Technologically superb, the TimeWriter II Chronographe Bi-Fréquence

measures elapsed intervals to the nearest thousandth of a second, a process invisible to the naked eye. An 18-carat white gold case and mother-of-pearl inlay frame the complicated movement, leaving it open to admiration.

montblanc.com

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Luxury briefing

Future classic Ferrari

The recent Geneva motor show saw Ferrari reveal its 599 replacement, the F12 Berlinetta. A return to beautiful Ferraris, the Pininfarina-designed F12 is a thing of absolute beauty. Despite this, it’s the 730bhp 6.3-lite V12 engine that’s got everyone excited, with it pushing the car to 124mph from standstill in just 8.5 seconds. It’s the fastest and most powerful road car Ferrari has ever produced, and replaces the 599 as the company’s most expensive supercar on sale. Those lucky enough to secure an order can expect to pay around a quarter of a million pounds when the first cars are finally delivered at the start of 2013.

From Russia with love

Fabergé

While there is an elegant nod to Fabergé’s heritage in the lilting black numerals on this timepiece, the overall feel is one of sleek modernity. Faberge’s Russian roots are also showcased through the arresting black geometric design on the painted dial, inspired by the lattice-like glass roof at the Winter Palace in St Petersburg.

f12berlinetta.com

faberge.com

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Under the hammer Words – Hannah Silver

Going, going…

The thrill of the auction is like no other. There’s an electric sense of excitement that comes from bidding furiously against others until the bang of the gavel confirms you as the winner. Even if you’re not buying, it’s a fabulous way to spend an afternoon. Knowledge is power, though, and the chances of winning glittering vintage jewels or rare watches are higher if you know which auctions to look out for. Read on to discover the best on offer.

Bonhams

Bonhams’ highly anticipated Fine Watches and Wristwatches sale in New York on June 13 will contain some incredible pieces. The centrepiece is almost certainly this very rare Patek Philippe 18ct yellow gold manual wind chronograph wristwatch. Featuring a 23-jewel chronograph movement, beautiful polished gold leaf hands and matt-silvered dial, this timepiece is testament to Patek Philippe’s world-class craftsmanship. Manufactured in 1956, it’s been estimated at £40,000 to £60,000.

bonhams.com

Christie’s

Want a super rare vintage watch? Here’s our pick of the best upcoming auctions

Always looking to make their events something special, Christie’s often hold special events where exclusive pieces can be bought. Their latest partnership was with Girard-Perregaux, who created a special timepiece (pictured) for Christie’s Green Auction event that gives all proceeds to leading environmental charities. Other incredible pieces can be found at their regular Magnificent Jewels auction. Highlights from April included a Dreicer & Co coloured diamond ring estimated at around £4.5m and a 12.27ct yellow diamond necklace from Graff, estimated at around £1m.

christies.com

Watches of Knightsbridge

An auction house that specialises in modern and vintage timepieces is a must for the true watch aficionado. Several rare pieces went under the hammer at its March auction, the first of five to be held this year. Stand-out pieces included the Rolex Holy Grail Submariner circa 1953 (pictured) that sold for £51,072 and a rare 1920s Longines Calibre 13.33Z single button chronograph, sold at £5,742. Many more treasures are expected at the next auction, held on 12 May, with a preview available on their website from 25 April.

watchesofknightsbridge.com

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Illustration - Ross Trigg

Philippe Starck is creative director at yoo.com

The Word

Philippe Starck the nature of true beauty I do not speak of beauty. I think it’s useless. It absolutely does not interest me. It’s a bourgeois sticker for lazy people who don’t want to try to understand the world around them. When people say something is beautiful, as if being beautiful itself is enough, that’s the end of intelligence and progress. I am against beauty. It’s a lot smarter to avoid beauty and instead to speak about harmony. Beauty is the result of a harmonious cocktail, a balance of luck and necessity – le hasard et la néccesité, as we French say. Any action, any object, any person, any music, any painting can be beautiful if the mix of different parameters is right. But harmony is not enough. To be truly beautiful, a person, an object, must have a spark of life, this internal fire, this touch of desire. That makes all the difference. Anything can be beautiful if you understand it, if you get to the essence of it. As a radical example, even a bullet can be the most beautiful thing. Think about the bullet. It has a purity of balance of purpose, of function, of intelligence. A bullet is made to reach one clear goal: to kill. It is designed to go with maximum speed and accuracy through the air into the body and kill somebody. There is nothing extra. Nothing around. Just the essence of the function. It is, therefore, structurally and practically beautiful. A cancer cell can be beautiful, too. It has a job, which is to give cancer. It does it well. It is absolutely permanent. You are obliged to have respect for the beauty, the intelligence of this nano nano nano machine made to survive in your body and then kill it. The way it works is incredibly beautiful. At the opposite extreme, there is birth. A young child – a baby – is always beautiful because he or she has only one purpose, one role. To survive. To live and to be better than his or her parents. A baby is the living embodiment of a singluar, noble purpose. The

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personification of progress. That is why you cannot take your eyes off a baby. You admire this permanent, pure fight to survive and to be better. A baby must be very, very ugly to look ugly. That’s very rare. What is the opposite of beauty? What is ugly? Something dishonest is ugly. Take design. It is absolutely ugly when a company makes a product, packages it using very smart graphic designers and markets it with its clever advertising department when it knows, in its heart, that it is absolutely useless. This is socially dishonest. Hideous. You see this every day in supermarkets. You go to the food department and you see all these packets of food that lie. They look good. Some say they are good for you and the planet. But they have nothing to offer. They are full of chemicals, they make you fat, they are too expensive for what they are. Ninety-nine per cent of the talent used to create and sell the product is just to try to convince you to buy it when you shouldn’t. Such dishonesty and stupidity! Perhaps the most beautiful thing of all is intelligence. The mind, the brain, is the most beautiful thing. Everything of value comes from intelligence and creativity. When I design, I never look for beauty. If you start out looking for beauty, you find only vanity. If you start out by looking for truth, then you can find beauty. You must go from the inside out. Look for the magnetic energy in something, in everything you do, and then your action may become beautiful. Me? Am I beautiful? Some parts of me, yes, some parts of me, no. My idealistic visionary side can be beautiful but my body is not very beautiful. The only part of my body that is beautiful is my eyes because they are the only thing that cannot hide my idealism. Everywhere else you see fat and that shows my weaknesses.

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Ken Kessler is a watch expert and journalist

The Word

Illustration - Ross Trigg

Ken Kessler ARE TOURBILLONS WORTH THE MONEY? Aside from £2,000 Chinese offerings, tourbillons number among the most expensive watches available today. True, they’re rivalled by minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, but ask a mixed group of watch connoisseurs to name the most desirable complication, and the majority will utter the French word for ‘whirlwind’. You can then correct them, by informing them that a tourbillon is not actually a complication. A complication is a function in addition to the hours, minutes and seconds display of a basic watch, such as a date readout or a second time-zone. A tourbillon performs no separate task as such. Instead, it’s a refinement of the basic design of a watch movement, in which the heart of the escapement – the balance wheel – sits in its own rotating cage, typically completing one revolution per minute. It was patented in 1801 by Breguet, designed to correct for the effects of gravity on pocket watches, which rest vertically in one place until removed for observation. Those of you who think laterally have already figured out that tourbillons are not needed in wristwatches, because a watch on one’s wrist is in nearly continuous movement while it’s worn – unless the wearer is a truly dormant couch potato. Because a wristwatch is never still long enough for gravity to pull on it in a fixed position, the problem simply does not exist. Despite this, the tourbillon has emerged during the past 20 years as one of the most prestigious and coveted watch types you can own, something guaranteed to create watch envy in those exclusive clubs in New York and LA where the wealthy gather to smoke cigars legally outside of the home and try to outdo each other. Despite prices for tourbillons plummeting of late, with models available for under £50,000, they remain forbiddingly expensive. But what do you get beyond snob value? There’s no mystery as to why tourbillons are expensive: they are devilishly difficult to produce. Indeed, many of the tourbillons on the market aren’t actually produced in total by the companies whose names grace the dials. Outside suppliers sell tourbillon kits which can be adapted for use by their clients, much as car makers use independent tuning houses to create halo performance models. By the 1990s, with the watch revival in full swing, it became a measure of a brand’s capabilities. If you couldn’t make one, you were somehow less of a brand in the eyes of collectors. They demonstrate watchmaking prowess, they result in many column inches in watch magazines, so they’re worth the effort.

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Be that as it may, any tourbillon is a visual tour de force, which is why nearly all of them can be seen through the dial. Many do away with a conventional dial altogether – think of the designs of Greubel Forsey, who use multiple tourbillons at odd angles. Some companies, for whom discretion and subtlety are almost as important as technical prowess, allow their tourbillons to be seen only through the caseback, including models from Patek Philippe. But when it comes to tourbillons, as Max Bialystock bellowed in The Producers, “Flaunt it, baby, flaunt it!” As with all commodities, something is only worth what someone will pay for it. But two competing thoughts should occupy your brain if the spin of a tourbillon starts to seduce the pounds from your wallet. The first is that tourbillon maven Christophe Claret, a true master of the art, prepared two identical wristwatches, one with tourbillon and one without. The former outperformed the latter for sheer accuracy, thus silencing the cynics. Conversely, the most admired and successful watch house of all time – Rolex – has never, to this writer’s knowledge, produced a tourbillon. Like the wristwatch itself, they don’t need one. Personally? I’d rather have a Ferrari.

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The Word

Eugene Costello London’s stripped-down menu movement I recently had a chat with London clubbing supremo Nick House, of Mahiki and Whisky Mist fame, and we talked at some length about the state of the luxury market (surprisingly buoyant, we agreed) and the opportunities ahead (plentiful). But it was when I asked him what he expected to be the next big thing in the luxury sector that he was at his most succinct. “Simplicity. Purity of message. Brands that specialise in doing just one thing – but doing it really, really well.” By way of example he cites Burger & Lobster, a rather cool joint on Clarges Street in Mayfair, a mere amble from the temptations of Shepherd Market that rather did for Jeffrey Archer (is he really still a Lord?). The choice is straightforward. Burger. Or lobster. Both at £20 each. The lobsters are imported from Canada and probably represent the best value. Choose the whole monster from the deep at, say, J Sheekey, and you can expect to pay twice the price. As for the burgers – good though they are, with the usual chargeable extras such as cheddar, bacon and what have you, included in the £20 single-price tag, that is one hell of a mark-up. This is good business. Of course, there are luxe brands out there that do one thing, do it well and bat off competition as a horse occasionally swishes its tail to swat away flies. Want wellingtons for your country pad boot room? Hunters. No question. Waxed jacket? Barbour is the only show in town. Want a little black book on whose creamy, velour pages you can jot down your pensées on your peripatetic rambles? That’ll be Moleskine.

Eugene Costello is editor-at-large of Tempus

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To see this single-minded approach now extend into the world of food and drink is an interesting and welcome development. And others are embracing this keep-it-simple approach. If Burger & Lobster is turf and surf, then it’s fair to say that this really is a turf war, with burgers on the frontline. Other combatants in the capital’s burger battle include Meat Liquor, Lucky Chip, SliderBar and Honest Burgers. Other famous food-and-drink players across the capital are proving converts to the trend for stripped-down menus. The Quality Chop House in fashionable Farringdon has got the message and has rebranded itself – with commendable directness – as Meatballs. You don’t have to be Sherlock Holmes to figure out what their menu consists of. London superchef Mark Hix clearly recognises the emerging trend, too. So much so, in fact, that he’s planning to open Tramshed in Shoreditch, serving only steak or roast chicken. Elsewhere customers queue in their droves at the Marylebone, Docklands and City branches of Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecôte. It offers only one dish – steak frites, at £21 – and your money back if you’re not in and out within an hour. A business that only needs to source one product and still extracts the same profit from its customers? Sounds too good to be true – until you remember Henry Ford’s famous comment: “You can have any colour you want so long as it’s black.” And he didn’t do too shabbily.

Illustration - Ross Trigg

08/05/2012 16:36


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Objects of desire frostof london.co.uk

01

02

Snyper

_01 Snyper

One -Tourbillon F117, titanium fineblasted _02 Snyper One - Pure Limited Edition, with 120 diamonds _03 Snyper One - M Steel with 36 large black diamonds

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03

Much loved for their tough, steely timepieces, Snyper is a deeply masculine brand with a ‘rough luxe’ edge. Beneath that solid interior beats a heart of intricate craftsmanship with the Snyper One Tourbillion being a case in point. Its complex mechanism is housed in fineblasted titanium and covered in a PVD light titanium grey coat. Alternatively, the Snyper One

Pure, available in a 100 piece limited edition, sees its silver coated steel complemented with 120 diamonds displayed around the dial. This blending of beauty and strength is also realised in the Snyper One M Steel. Here the steel is offset with 36 large black diamonds, giving a superb finish to what is one of the brand’s best-looking watches.

frostoflondon.co.uk

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Baselworld Words - Scott Manson & Hannah Silver

tes 12 a d up d 20 ot o t s worl apsh es e l y st asel ct sn atch w ne cs, B perfe ury w m i Fro class d the of lux on ovide orld pr the w of

e s h T ne h o o tc t a w

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very year a sleepy Swiss city becomes the most important place in the watch industry as Baselworld, the world’s biggest watch and jewellery expo, takes over. Imagine the Cannes Film Festival crossed with the world’s best luxury window shopping and it is easy to see why the issue of who gets to go and who does not can cause more office rows than any snippy email or inappropriate attachment. Sure, it has got the execs, the talking shop and the dull discussion panels held in airless function rooms. It’s business. But it is business conducted in a place that hosts the world’s finest jewellery and timepieces, and that’s attended by more than 100,000 trade visitors and 3,000 journalists every year and where, crucially, eight days of amazing experiences can be put on expenses. With 1,800 exhibitors even the most diligent attendee would find it impossible to see everything, but the Tempus team did its best to check out the watches and companies that we feel will set the agenda in the luxury timepiece industry for 2012. Here, then, are Baselworld’s big hitters.

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Baselworld

Harry Winston Opus 12 Chopard 8HF A technical masterpiece, the Chopard 8HF has the first movement with a highfrequency escapement that has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. Years in development has resulted in a mechanical movement with a frequency of 8Hz which beats an impressive 57,600 vibrations an hour, making this timepiece spectacularly accurate. A case carved of titanium monobloc lugs with a matt finish makes for a stylish, avant-garde finish.

chopard.com

This is an absolute beauty and arguably the finest watch we saw in Basel. Harry Winston has hardened the surface of the Opus 12 with shot-peening which, together with the absence of a traditional dial, makes for a modern, masculine timepiece. Eschewing convention, the time is not read via the usual hands in the centre but by 12 pairs of hands round the circumference of the watch. A skeletonised sapphirecrystal caseback gives ample opportunity to admire the remarkable movement winding in a counterclockwise direction.

harrywinston.com

Rolex Sky-Dweller The much anticipated SkyDweller is the first Rolex with two time zones. A rotating disc on the dial allows globetrotters to check their reference time – the time it is at home – while abroad. With a sophisticated annual calendar and an unusual ‘ring command’ bezel, which allows you to operate watch functions via the bezel, this is the most technically impressive Rolex yet.

rolex.com

Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Annual Calendar The latest edition of Corum’s Admiral’s Cup watch is an update on a long-admired classic piece, with an elegant design and distinctive shape that nods to its predecessor. A mechanical automatic Corum CO503 movement gives a 42hr power reserve while an impressive horological complication means the annual calendar only requires one adjustment per year.

corum.ch

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Baselworld

Bremont Victory

Cyrus Klepcys

Zenith Pilot Type 20

Bremont’s announcement that it would build a limited edition timepiece from parts of HMS Victory, Lord Nelson’s flagship from the 1805 Battle of Trafalgar, caused considerable excitement. The mechanical retrograde watch incorporates oak timber and copper from the original ship giving the watch a real sense of times past.

Technologically impressive, the Klepcys has three movements and a moon phase – symbolised by an orb slowly covered with a black patch. Each limited edition piece comes with a copy of a 2,500 year old coin from the reign of the brand’s namesake, Cyrus. An 18ct red or grey gold casing is blended with grade five titanium and DLC. But this is, quite simply, a beautiful and unusual piece.

This collection is a nod to the days when the first aerobatic daredevils took to the skies with their trusty Zeniths strapped to their wrists. The Pilot Type 20’s large 57.5 mm case is made from titanium to offset the weight of the movement. A nice touch is the notched crown, reminiscent of the original aviator watches that allowed pilots to set the watch while wearing their gloves.

bremont.com

cyrus-watchesnews.ch

zenith-watches.com

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Baselworld

Patek Philippe Calatrava No Baselworld round-up is complete without a Patek, responsible for some of the world’s most complicated mechanical watches. Its latest take on the Calatrava is a vision of beautiful simplicity in rose gold (very hot this year), water resistant to 30m (although at about £15,000 you’d be mad to try), and boasting a second subdial, alligator strap and 44hr power reserve.

patek.com

Omega Z-33 Spacemaster The distinctive case shape of Omega’s new Z-33 Spacemaster contains an ergonomic display designed with pilots in mind. An alarm and a perpetual calendar runs a self-programmable professional pilot function, which can log up to ten flights that can be visualised with date-hour indications. Useful for active types too, it’s super tough, with a grade five titanium case and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

omegawatches.com

De Bethune Titan Hawk The Titan Hawk is testament to De Bethune’s technical prowess. The first piece from the new DB27 series is powered by a new selfwinding caliber, with a silicon and white gold annular balance wheel viewable through the caseback. This piece is kept streamlined by a sleek titanium case with mirror polishing and blue hands.

debethune.con

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w w w. l u x u r y w a t ch s a f e. c o m

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08/05/2012 16:23


The rise & rise of men’s jewellery

Men’s jewellery is back in vogue, and it’s not just hip hop stars and royalty who are rocking the new style

L

uxury jewellery sales are on the rise. Men’s jewellery that is. In the UK alone, men spent £168m satisfying their penchant for pendants, bracelets and rings in 2010. In the US, sales of male accessories rose 14 per cent – to $6bn – in the last half of 2011. And indications so far this year suggest the trend that shows no sign of stopping. Until recently male jewellery, in the West at least, was largely confined to what is useful – cufflinks, tie lapels – or what has meaning – a signet or wedding ring, possibly a St Christopher pendant. But this is no longer the case. Rings (non-wedding) comprise over 50 per cent of total sales. Bracelets and necklaces are outperforming cufflinks. The influence of hip-hop culture and its ‘bling’ adornment as a sign of power and fortune has played its part. However, statement pieces are now sought-after as works of art – a sign of a man’s attention to detail and

01 Tomasz Donocik’s stylish designs are taking men’s jewellery in new directions

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Substance Words - Lizzie Rivera

Put a ring on it

A simple way to work the jewellery trend is to subtly offset a stylish outfit with a great ring. Here are some of the best.

01 Garrard individuality, as well as his wealth. And it’s this market that celebrated jewellers such as Theo Fennell, Tomasz Donocik and Jacob & Co are catering for. While each brand has a distinct style, the pieces are linked by a thread of masculinity and lavishness, with diamond encrusted skulls being a recurrent theme. This was notably developed by Theo Fennell, with his Queen Elizabeth Brooch, worn by Sir Elton John for a recent New York performance. Created by seven craftsmen in their workshop on Fulham Road, Fennell says: “I wanted to use a skull but have the person recognisable and the Virgin Queen seemed perfect for such a quintessentially Elizabethan idea.” New York jeweller Jacob & Co also plays around with skull themes in its work, while the company’s bracelet designs include complex links, giving the pieces a masculine mechanical feel. Elsewhere, Jason of Beverley Hills uses rose gold and cognac diamonds to produce tiger heads, shark bites, bullets and knives.

A luxury ring with an ethnic accent, combining a large African ruby with black pavé diamonds. One for the bolder gent.

For the more adventurous, androgynous designs are also proving popular. The renowned beaded bracelets of Shamballa Jewels, for example, are worn by both men and women and have become the most imitated style of jewellery in the last 20 years. But Tomasz Donocik is the designer really pushing boundaries. Described in The Telegraph as someone “determined to spearhead a new way for men to wear jewellery”, his collections of scarves and braces – and his mixing of precious metals and diamonds with leather and horsehair – are at once defiantly feminine and confidently masculine. They make a mockery of the clumsy attempts to dub men’s jewellery “mewellery” or the bangle a “mangle”. Men are breaking free of fashion constraints, and unashamedly adorning their wrists with cuffs, their necks with chains, and wearing their brooches as badges of honour. The jewellery box has been well and truly opened and there’s no turning back.

Hunter African Ruby, Black Pavé Diamond and White Gold Ring £4,900

garrard.com 02 Shamballa

This 18ct yellow gold with white diamonds ring adds an ornate twist to a classic design. Shamballa Jewels ‘Dorje’ ring, from £3345

frostoflondon.co.uk 03 Theo Fennell

A great way to showcase precious jewels, the background of white gold and diamonds in this patriotic piece help to make the rubies glow. 18ct White Gold, Ruby and Diamond Jouster Archer Ring, £6,000

theofennell.com 04 Jason of Beverly Hills

The quirky designs of Jason Arasheben are a firm favourite with the Tempus team. The white on black look of this piece gives it a wonderfully edgy feel. Jason of Beverly Hills White & Black Diamond Ring, from £21,000

frostoflondon.co.uk

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Turbine Xl, A1050/1 Technology of the Double Rotor.

Made by movement

www.perrelet.com

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Food & Drink

Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens The Steaks Are High

Gallic grazing Morgan Meunier first came to our attention years ago when he was running his eponymous Morgan M restaurant from a slightly unfashionable address near Liverpool Road, on the wrong side of Highbury Corner. Even back then his French-inspired cuisine was exquisite, with the tasting menu a particular highlight. Now his restaurant and kitchen gallery at the Barbican is bringing his

skills to a wider audience, and rightly so. And in the informal kitchen gallery, all stripped wooden tables and original art, he is pioneering a new grazing approach to the menu – a sort of French meze or tapas, if you like. At between £3.50 and £6.50, dishes are light on the wallet and heavy on flavour. A medley of some of Morgan’s most creative food, the selection includes ravioli of snails in chablis, garlic froth and red wine jus. Other themes and variations include fillet of salmon with a carrot and ginger risotto, the cream of mojette beans with a lemon confit and pesto and a game terrine with apple chutney. All of these dishes can, of course, be ordered from the à la carte menu in the dining room upstairs, but what better way could there be to create a shortlist before going for the full French experience?

Fancy yourself as a steak connoisseur? Head down to Gillray’s Steak House on the Southbank. The restaurant is in County Hall and named after 18th-century caricaturist James Gillray as a nod to the political history of the building. Gillray’s work is reproduced on the menu and on the walls. An English steak house at its best, Gillray’s is a homage to top quality beef – 35-day dry aged Hereford Cattle from the Duke of Devonshire’s Bolton Abbey Estate in Yorkshire. The menu features nine cuts of steak including 300g fillet on the bone, 450g porterhouse and 600g T-bone steaks. Gillray’s signature dish, the 1000g steak, is a butterflycut, double-rib steak served bone-in. Can you actually eat a kilo of steak? It’s a tough call, but you’ll enjoy trying. gillrays.com

morganm.com

Food oscars The Cadogan restaurant’s new menu showcases artisan produce awarded the Great Taste stars – the Oscars of the food world. They’re changing the menu every few weeks, so go before May to try the trio of salmon and the roast ray wing with capers and Suffolk chorizo.

Three course menu £28pp; cadogan.com

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Food & Drink

epicuriosity

Eric Frechon, chef at Epicure à l’Hôtel le Bristol in Paris and holder of three Michelin stars My philosophy: I do not shout and scream like your Gordon Ramsay! I am collaboratif. Cooking is, for me, like any creative thing. In fashion, you have creative people working together. It is the same with cooking, non? All about me: I come from Normandy, I am married, I have two children who are 22 and 20, I am married to my job. Proudest moment: When I created a new dish. Duck liver poached in green tea and duck broth with tatin of oyster, wrapped in a papillotte, then smoked. It was my take on terre et mer and I knew it was something special. Best advice I’ve been given: No one gave me any good advice, I just watched closely. I’ve worked with some of the world’s greatest chefs, such as Joel Robuchon, and it is the best way to learn – by watching. Best advice I can give to someone starting out: You will work long hours for little money. Do it only if you have the passion. If you see it as work and not as pleasure then change what you do.

Mon plaisir French bistro Mon Plaisir is tucked down a cobbled street in the further reaches of Covent Garden, where the boutiques give way to the surprisingly underused Cambridge Circus. It seems to hail from another age, when TV chefs comprised Delia, Keith Floyd and, well, that was about it. They don’t have candles dripping down empty chianti bottles but they’re not far off. A cartoon in the window shows a stack of bones with the legend (in French, bien sûr): “All that remains of a customer who dared to question the owner.” M Lhermitte – le patron – is as eclectic and eccentric as his wonderful restaurant, the oldest French restaurant in London, surprisingly, at just half a century old. Curios and artefacts abound – the pewter bar counter in the back room once graced a Lyonnais brothel – and the four rooms are all quite different. Intimate parties should take over the smallest room at the back. We were advised to try the steak tartare – the best in London, we were told. “I shall be the judge of that,” I puffed. So I tried the steak tartare, and it is the best in London. The beef

is hand-cut, giving it a really good, pattie-like texture, it’s not too oily – the meat’s own fat is sufficient, why do other restaurants add gloopy pools of oil? And the cornichons here play a sensitive second fiddle to the gorgeous meat, rather than trying to upstage it. It is so good that there are classes on Monday to teach you how to make it at home, complete with wine-tasting. How liberty-minded! How fraternal! How… egalitarian! For our main we shared a côte de boeuf that was sliced at our table by chef Frank Raymond. It was for two but could have served four. That it came with the best dauphinoise potatoes this side of Lille made it perfection. We washed it all down with a bottle of premier cru Bordeaux, so I was practically chatting in French by the time the bill came. Just don’t tell the rosbifs they do pre- and posttheatre menus at silly prices (£12.95 for two courses, £14.95 for three, glass of wine on the house). They’ll ruin the place. Just as they have the Dordogne. Reviewed by Eugene Costello;

monplaisir.co.uk

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greenwich

TB88

EDITION HAND-CRAFTED IN SWITZERLAND Arnold & Son Manual movement AS5003 Two barrels, 100-hour power reserve True Beat Seconds, Breguet Spring See-through caseback. 100 feet (30 meters) water resistant Available in rose gold or stainless steel

108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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25/04/2012 13:57


Fashion & Accessories frostof london.co.uk

The latest in cutting-edge luxury from Frost Of London

The bold and the beautiful

01

01 Shamballa

The start of a new summer and the promise of long champagne brunches calls for a new light, luxurious piece of jewellery. This delicate string bracelet studded with white and yellow-gold diamonds fits the bill perfectly.

from ÂŁ3,345

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02

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02 Perrelet 04

Risk-lovers rejoice: your highstakes game of poker is no longer confined to the casino. Perrelet’s Turbine Poker watch has cards spread under a 12-blade wheel that rotates, leaving friends to guess what card will appear when the wheel stops, with unexpected jerks calling their bluff. Encased in stainless steel with DLC coating, this is a seriously cool watch for high rollers.

from £4,500

03 Chrome Hearts 05

Working Top Gun-inspired pilot frames is still a good look, and long may it remain so. These Chrome Hearts Bauner Doner frames take the trend further, with titanium front rim and temples relief adding a luxe accent to a classic piece.

£1,640

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04 Stefan Hafner

A white gold band dotted with blue sapphires and diamonds is made truly exceptional by a sprinkle of pink sapphires. This is a beautiful and quirky piece that will delight lovers of fine jewels.

price on application

05 Tag Heuer

Surely a contender for the ultimate smartphone, the aerodynamic Tag Heuer Racer is constructed from the most advanced materials in aeronautics. It combines elements first used in motorcars – including titanium, carbon fibre and stainless steel – with a mastering speed processor of 1GHz and impressive screen resolution to make for one of the most luxurious next-generation smartphones on the market. A black PVD-coated stainless steel frame keeps it looking sharp.

£4,300

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000_Ad.indd 1

25/04/2012 17:23


Good times Words - Eugene Costello

The

touch Dynamo (aka Steven Frayne) is Britain’s very own David Blaine, a stunning magician who’s wowed the likes of Rio Ferdinand, Joss Stone, David Haye and The Foo Fighters – among others. A member of the notoriously selective Magic Circle, he has also performed in-store at premier London jeweller Frost of London, and is a close friend of the owners. Oh, and he walked across the Thames… 45

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Q

First of all, your name - it seems to recall the stage names of the stage and TV magicians of yore, such as Alberti (French magician, late 1800s, said to have invented Ambitious Card), Aldini (American, 1917-1989, invented the Aldini Bowl Production), Houdini, Cardini and so forth. Is this a conscious decision to summon up that era of magic as vaudeville and entertainment as opposed to the po-faced work of, say, David Blaine?

Er, not really. It was actually given to me by somebody else! I was performing in New York at a centennial event in honour of Houdini and halfway through my performance, someone shouted “F***ing hell, this kid’s a f***ing dynamo!” From that day on everyone referred to me as Dynamo.

Q

Which contemporary illusionists and magicians do you rate the most, and why?

When I first started doing magic, I wasn’t looking at other performers, I just learnt some tricks from my granddad. But as I progressed I began to look to see what other performers were up to and how I could turn it into a career. I admired people like David Copperfield who was one of the greatest performers of all time – not simply a magician – and he sold more live tickets than any other performer in any field ever. A huge inspiration was David Blaine who showed me that street style did work on television. And obviously Derren Brown is incredible – it might not be magic, as such, but his illusions are just amazing. Pop culture also influences my act, I want to recreate the visuals in videos and film but without special effects. I wanted to bring the superhuman mobility of films such as The Matrix to real life. And it’s not an illusion, I actually do it. Go on YouTube and type in “Dynamo, Magician Impossible” to see for yourself.

Q

Where do you stand on the question of Derren Brown and his crusade to debunk magic and illusionism and to prove that it is all suggestion, distraction and sleight of hand?

I don’t think he’s out to debunk magic or illusion – I think he’s out to debunk psychics and the belief that paranormal events are real. There are a lot of vaudeville acts that con people into giving them money for nonsense such as psychic surgery. It needs debunking – that sort of thing preys on the gullible and the vulnerable. I really respect Derren – he is a unique performer and no one could replicate what he does. He’s a very, very clever man.

Q

Who would you rather spend an evening watching? Siegfried and Roy? Or Penn and Teller?

That’s easy – Penn and Teller. They’re awesome. I got to hang out with them backstage, but I can’t reveal if Teller ever speaks – it’s against the Magicians’ Code! Their magic bullet trick is incredible. The great thing about people like Derren, David, Copperfield, Penn & Teller is that they’re all unique, you can’t imagine anyone else doing their act.

Q

What is the best trick that you perform?

I change every week but I think the most monumental one I’ve ever done was walking across the River Thames. It’s certainly the scariest and most dangerous. I was petrified. I’m a terrible swimmer.

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Good times frostof london.co.uk

Q

And the greatest trick ever in the history of magic?

I’m kind of biased here because I would say that has to be walking across the River Thames. But second best is David Copperfield sawing himself in half. The difference is that he does his trick every night on stage with props – it’s clearly an illusion, whereas the Thames was outside of my control. Without giving anything away, it was bloody dangerous and I’m glad it came off all right.

Q

How good a living can a magician in the UK make?

Q

What’s your greatest ambition in terms of tricks?

Well… I do all right. At the level I am working now, it’s big business but it’s taken years to get here. Not many have the tenacity, perseverance and the capacity for taking rejection to get here. It’s Malcolm Gladwell’s principle of the 10,000-hour rule here – there are no shortcuts. But you can make a very, very substantial living from it if you stick it out. I’ve got a few things I’m working on for later this year. Follow me on Twitter - @dynamomagician – and you’ll be the first to know.

Q

Now the psychobabble stuff. You grew up on the notorious Delph Hill Estate in Bradford. Was magic a form of escapism for you?

I didn’t see it as a form of escapism so much as a way to counter the bullies. My grandpa showed me some skills to take away their strength and it gave me a confidence and a belief, I suppose, that I could do anything. He showed me how to prevent people from picking me up so

“My most expensive purchase was from Frost of London. It’s my Rolex. It’s a limited edition, one of only 25 in the MAD range”

they couldn’t put me in a wheelie bin and roll me down the hill. Or how to make my dinner money magically disappear so they couldn’t rob it.

Q

Are you still working-class in your tastes and extravagances?

Q

What has been your greatest extravagance?

I have an eating disorder – Crohn’s Disease – so I have a strict diet that means I eat pretty much the same stuff, a lot of potato and chicken. I don’t think I’ve ever been working-class, I think I was poor. I never equated wealth to class. Even when I had no money I managed to buy the trainers I wanted; I just saw not having money as an inspiration to earn some. Today I am wearing Chanel trainers and a Dior jacket, but it’s a plain black with no visible label; it could have come from Topshop. I like the cut – being small makes it hard to find well-fitting clothes. Plus cheaper jackets fall apart – this will last me a lifetime. Funnily enough, my most expensive purchase was from Frost of London, and it is my Rolex. It’s a limited edition, one of only 25 in the MAD range. Mine is number one of 25, and it’s matt-black. It’s rubbish for telling the time, especially in the dark, but let’s face it – you don’t wear a Rolex for telling the time. A good watch is the only permitted jewellery for a gentleman; it makes a great first impression.

Q

How many cars do you own? What are they? What would be your dream car?

I have two cars – a Beemer. But my first love is the Honda Civic Sport that was in my TV show. It really was my first ever car. It’s matt-black with blacked-out windows – it’s a bit like my watch, come to think of it – and it’s all souped up, with TV and internet inside. It’s famous, like Knight Rider. But now I need a new car and am having a few delivered this week so I can choose the new DynamoMobile. They’re all concept cars so whatever one I go for, it really will be one of a kind.

Q

What would your epitaph be?

Keep following me on Twitter!

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23/06/1971

Photography - CBS via Getty Images 048-054_Cars Watches/aw.indd 48

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Man & Machine Words – Alex Doak

F

i

n

e

tuning

Ever since Jack Heuer kitted out the pit-lane playboys of the 1960s, watches and cars have had style and synergy. Now watchmakers are using advanced engine technology to make their products more perfect than ever 49 23/06/1971 048-054_Cars Watches/aw.indd 49

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Man & Machine

is an overused term in the hyperbolic world of luxury wristwatches, but there’s no other word to describe arguably the most famous image to combine the worlds of watches and motorsport. It is, of course, the moment in the 1971 film Le Mans when Steve McQueen unzips his white racesuit. He’s wearing a square-dial Heuer Monaco, and its cobalt-blue dial positively burns out of the silver screen. While the film itself may not be quite as memorable, that shot still serves Tag Heuer’s marketing team very well, reminding the world that it was Heuer who established the link between the worlds of watches and automobiles. McQueen wanted to base his character on Swiss Formula 1 legend Jo Siffert and so he had no choice when it came to wristwear. Practically every driver of the era – legends such as Jacky Ickx, Niki Lauda, Mario Andretti, Gilles Villeneuve and Emerson Fittipaldi – was wearing one of Jack Heuer’s chronographs. This was thanks in part to his omnipresence at the start/finish line with the latest timing

equipment, and also due to his Carrera chronograph of 1964 – the first watch designed with the driver in mind. It was clean, legible, easy to use, utilitarian, and very cool. Of course, in those days everyone wore watches, not just racing drivers, because they needed to tell the time. Now the time is displayed on everything from your phone to your laptop to your car dashboard. The recent resurgence in watches is down to a newfound passion for something far more enduring and soulful than any of the above appliances. It’s a similar passion to that felt by car aficionados the world over. “A high-end car and a high-end mechanical watch are both gloriously, admirably over-engineered,” says Ben Oliver, contributing editor and watch columnist for Car magazine. “That’s what we love about them. No man needs either, but most men desire both. And there’s a natural, historical association between motorsport and timekeeping, underlining this synergy.” It’s that boy’s toys connection that is key, reflected in the brand alliances that have flourished with the current boom in watch sales – Breitling for Bentley, Chopard’s Mille Miglia alliance, and most recently Hublot for Ferrari. This synergy of two very different forms of precision engineering

The Tag Heuer Monaco from 1970

The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari from 2012

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Watches / Cars

Podium Place

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Supersports When Bugatti’s pilote officiel Pierre-Henri Raphanel gunned the Veyron Super Sport to a record-breaking 268mph in 2010, the watch strapped to his wrist was this Parmigiani. The car comes with a $2.4m price tag, while the watch is still a tenth of that cost due to a highly technical movement that positions the dial perpendicular to its axis via a system of pinions with bevel gearing. This allows a tapered profile redolent of the car itself, plus you can read the time without losing your grip on the steering wheel. Super-cool and, dare we say it, practical.

parmigiani.ch

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Man & Machine

“He wanted 30 years of evolution in one watch!” The Richard Mille 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire

Podium Place

goes deeper than the odd decal or dashboard-inspired dial array. And this is thanks in large part to Richard Mille. When the French luxury-industry journeyman approached Audemars Piguet’s horological thinktank Renaud & Papi (APRP) at the end of the 20th century, he had a very clear idea of what his new, eponymous brand would be all about. “He showed me two photographs,” recalls APRP’s general manager Fabrice Deschanel: “One of a 1960s Ferrari engine, and one of a new Formula 1 Renault engine. ‘In horology,’ he told me, ‘there has been no evolution like this for 30 years. I want my watch to be the Renault engine.’ He wanted 30 years of evolution in one watch!” What the createur and the watchmaker unveiled in 2000 was the closest to a racing car for the wrist that had ever been realised. By applying a no-compromise, stripped-back, high-tech philosophy to its design and construction, they opened people’s eyes to the fact that the watch case is just like a chassis and the movement is the engine. The two were married in total coherence, just like an F1 car. What’s more, the first Richard Mille watch gave birth to a new high-tech aesthetic that now informs everything from watch brands such as Snyper to Rebellion to Urwerk. Thus, we have a new wave of watches that, thanks to ever-improving machining and materials technology, can draw

Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox2 Rapide Transponder for Aston Martin Perhaps the most vivid horological expression of high octane out there, not only do the watchmaker from Le Sentier and the carmaker from Gaydon share a sophisticated brand message, but the Amvox2 Transponder forms a genuine part of the driving experience. Touch the dial at the eight o’clock within 10 metres of your Aston and, with a solid ‘kerchunk’ and a flash of lights, you’ve unlocked the doors.

jaeger-lecoultre.com

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“Timber : the best performing asset class in the last – J.P. Morgan 25 years.” w w w. e c o f o r e s t s . c a

Benefit your Planet. Benefit your Portfolio 000_Ad.indd 1

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Man & Machine

Podium Place

BRM Despite a line of Gulf-branded watches combining that classic Le Mans scheme of baby-blue and orange, Bernard Richards Manufacture don’t align themselves with any other automotive brand – the watches themselves are practically racing cars in their own right.These chunky, rocksolid timepieces are all laboriously milled from solid lumps of metal and assembled in situ. The retro race aesthetic is unabashed but witty, and for that very reason BRM watches are hugely popular with touring F1 teams.

brm-manufacture.com

direct inspiration from the mechanical aspects of a great sports car. We have Parmigiani’s engine-block Bugatti watch, the start-button Jaeger-LeCoultre for Aston Martin chronographs, and BRM’s spaceframe racing machines (see above). Slightly more accessible but no less oil-stained is Meccaniche Veloci, who are venturing beneath the bonnet and into the engine itself. This up-and-coming Italian brand draws inspiration from cylinder heads, with the timepieces’ subdials visually referencing the valves of a car. Something so technical, in other words, that they risk alienating a raft of potential customers through sheer nerdiness. But they’re sticking to their guns and it’s paying off. “There is a subtle synergy between the mechanics of a race car and that of a watch,” says Monica Banon, export sales manager at Meccaniche Veloci. “Both are machines of engineering, with intricacies and technical complications. So our brand identifies with the mechanics of an engine, not with a specific brand of car.” That said, it has now stretched to a collaboration with two automotive brands. Not car brands, however, but brake disc Brembo and carburettor producers Dellorto. “We share the same obsession for research, technology and perfection,” says Banon. “Right now we are working on a new project that aims to develop a new revolutionary model made of carbon ceramic material.” And if you’re enough of a petrolhead to know why that’s significant, you definitely need a Meccaniche Veloci on your wrist.

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from the Meccaniche Veloci Only One Collection, the Race Car (top), the Quattro Valvole Limited Edition (centre) and the Air Helicopter (bottom)

26/04/2012 10:41


LUC - BAG

TEMPUS Magazine • 240 x 300 mm • Visuel: Astrolab • Parution 15/05/12 • Remise 27/04/12 •

Astrolab dining table Designed by Studio Roche Bobois

Photo Michel Gibert.

Dyna chairs Designed by Sacha Lakic

European manufacture.

Showroom details, collections, news and catalogues www.roche-bobois.com

Two motorised 40 cm extension leaves operated by an exposed mechanised cog system (battery-operated remote control). Watch the video: www.roche-bobois.com/astrolab_uk

Available exclusively at: Roche Bobois Harrods Modern Furniture Department 87-135 Brompton Road London SW1X 7XL Tel: 0207 893 8394

Designed for you

TEMPUS Astrolab 240x300.indd 1

30/04/12 14:44


Casablanca flame bikini by Paolita; Watch by Backes & Strauss; Boat: Hunton Speedboats

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Fashion Photography - Ruth Rose Model - Amy Willerton

Monte Carlo or bust 57

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Fashion

ABOVE: Amandy embroided triangle bikini by Babajaan; Watch by Franck Muller – Ronde Collection; Jewellery by Baccarat LEFT: Sereia swimsuit by Babajaan; Watch by Franck Muller – Ronde Collection; Earrings by De Grisogono

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Fashion

Amandy embroided triangle bikini by Babajaan; Jewellery by Baccarat

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Fashion

Casablanca flame bikini by Paolita; Hat by Philip Treacy, Bracelet by Shamballa Jewels; Watch by Backes & Strauss

Team credits: Creative Director: Veronica Voronina, Photographer: Ruth Rose, Executive producer: Elio D’Anna Jr, Hair and Makeup: Amber Bishop, Model: Amy Willerton, Production Assistant: Yaroslav Treschev - Shot on location at Pont De Fontvieille, Monaco

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Food & Drink Words – Eugene Costello

Orient

success

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Jordan Sclare, executive chef at Aqua Kyoto, on his Jewish childhood, why working for Ramsay was a living hell and the spirituality of Japanese cuisine The stunning dining room of London’s Aqua Kyoto is as much a place to be seen as it is a high temple of gastronomy. Presiding over this room of urban hipsters and enthusiastic foodies is an executive chef whose CV includes head chef roles at Park Lane’s Nobu and the Buddha Bar, plus stints working for Gordon Ramsay at the Savoy. Meet Jordan Sclare, the man who’s helping to bring the wow factor back to West End dining…

My parents went bankrupt when I was born. They had a nice home in

Southgate, north London, where they ran a newsagent, then we moved to a council estate until I was six. I have three sisters so all six of us had to move, which must have been pretty traumatic for my mum with a baby. We lived there while my dad tried to build up his businesses again, working two jobs. He did, and opened Get Stuffed in Islington, a well-known taxidermist’s.

My family was an inspiration to me – my dad lost everything and won it back. The message I learned was, work hard. My mates used to laugh at me because we used to have family conferences. I was pretty quiet for years but when I hit my teens, I made my feelings known.

My first catering job – I was 14 – was at the function room where I’d had my bar mitzvah. A place called The Firs in Winchmore Hill. It was a two-week work placement arranged by my school. I was only making egg sandwiches but it confirmed to me that I wanted to be a chef.

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She’ll kill me for saying this, but I learned to cook because my mum’s cooking was truly awful. If she’s

reading this – Mum, I love you and when you’ve calmed down, I hope you’ll laugh. She had two or three dishes, Jewish dishes like chicken soup, Italian meatballs, and her Sunday roast, which was dire. My dad has a few dishes that he eats on the same night each week. And he has a few rotating breakfast choices – if it’s Frosties, it’s a Monday.

I love to eat. The first thing I learned to cook was scrambled eggs, at school when I was ten. I then inflicted these on my family whenever I got the chance. Then it was on to spaghetti bolognese and so on. I got loads of flak

for over-salting – young chefs tend to overdo the seasoning. My family were my guinea pigs. When I started out as an apprentice at The Savoy, I hoovered up every bit of knowledge I could so when I saw how they kept all the trimmings to make stock, I would do that at home. I’d even take the bones off my family’s plate and throw them into the stockpot – disgusting, really.

If I hadn’t been a chef, I’d have been a professional basketball player. When I was 16 I was on the

national team that went to Israel to

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Food & Drink

take part in the Jewish Olympics, as the Maccabiah Games are known. It’s the third largest sporting event in the world after the Olympics and the Commonwealth Games. We went out on a double-decker plane and when we landed Israeli schoolchildren sang songs for us and cheered, which was just an incredible experience.

I came home from being a national hero at the Jewish Olympics to become a lowly apprentice at The Savoy. I have to thank my mum for

that. Before I went away, she started scouring the papers for work, and ringing round the big London hotels trying to find me a job. She got through to The Savoy and by chance they were holding interviews for their annual four apprentices later that day. So she rang my mate’s house, where I was hanging out, and told me to run home and get my suit on. We got the tube into Covent Garden and pitched up to meet Anton Edelmann. And that was that.

When I got the apprenticeship I went round grinning like the Cheshire Cat. I did some trial shifts

to see if I would fit into this enormous West End hotel restaurant that was on five levels and had 110 chefs. It was really tough. Anton Edelmann said to me, “You know, this is really hard work so be sure it’s what you want to do.” Each year they need two apprentices but they take on four because they know historically that two will drop out pretty quickly, which is what happened.

I asked Mr Edelmann for a pay rise from £6,000 to £8,000 in return for working on my day off.

It was pretty nerve-wracking. I was only 17 and he was sitting in his office with his enormous chef ’s hat on, and portraits of Escoffier on the wall behind him. I was doing four days in the kitchen and one day at college, with

two days off. I offered to take only one day off and he agreed.

I went to work at Gordon Ramsay’s as a dare to myself. I’d seen

him on a series called Boiling Point and I thought, no way, it can’t be that bad in real life. But it was. It was a living hell. There were no breaks. No staff food to speak of – at 11pm we had cheese on toast, stale bread or trimmings mushed into a soup. And when the restaurant shut for the night we had to double up as kitchen porters, cleaning out the ovens with a toothbrush till 1 or 2am. We did 92-hour weeks, week in, week out. I planned to leave after a week but lasted more than two years. I lived in a hostel in Chelsea with all the drunks and unfortunates of society. Most moved on after a week so after two years I pretty much ran the hostel.

With the hell that was Gordon Ramsay’s came this idea that to be successful you had to be foulmouthed, vile and aggressive. I

never swore at school, then at the age of 22 it was as though I had Tourette’s. I knew it was time to change when I found myself in my local Asda screaming “Coming through!” as an instruction for people in the aisles to jump out of my way. At Gordon’s they push you to your limit, which is a

terrible way of getting the most out of people.

Going to Nobu after Gordon Ramsay’s was a revelation. It’s a completely

different vibe. I learned all about Japanese food and I love Japanese philosophy. If the food is not made with love it will not be good. The food needs to be zen, it needs to have the music and poetry of Japan flowing through it. Imagine wood and wind chiming – that is the feeling you want to create in your dishes. Japanese cooking is the fusion of respect and passion, and it looks to the best in the mankind, not the basest.

aqua.com.hk

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10/05/2012 14:03


deLaCour frostof london.co.uk

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Bold Vision

An oversized deLaCour watch is the last word in sexy military style chic. We catch up with the brand’s founder and creative powerhouse Pierre Koukjian to find out what drives his ideas

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deLaCour frostof london.co.uk

I

n an industry filled with creative visionaries, deLaCour’s Chief Creative Director Pierre Koukjian still stands out. Many of his watchmaking peers would say they were artists, but this Beirut-born designer of some of the world’s most intriguing timepieces has arguably a better claim than most on this title. Like many of the best artists, his back story makes for fascinating reading. Having fled Lebanon with the outbreak of civil war in the mid 1970s, Pierre spent many years traveling through Germany, France and later the Far East. With no formal education to fall back on, he embraced the world of jewellery-making as a young man. As an apprentice in workshops throughout Europe, he perfected the art of fashioning fine jewellery, using painting in the planning stages of his designs.

Lenny Kravitz with Pierre Koukjian (below) and Ronaldo (bottom) wearing deLaCour

Watchmaking proved to be a natural progression for Pierre and, after long runs as a designer for some of the world’s most recognised brands, he launched deLaCour in 2002. Born from a passion for avant-garde design, deLaCour was established to offer a true alternative in the world of luxury watchmaking. In 2003, deLaCour unveiled its first collection at the world famous watch expo Baselworld. The collection’s ground-breaking style was an overnight success with watch collectors. “In the beginning, it was never meant to be a brand,” says Pierre. “I just created a piece that I would wear and suddenly people were raving about it. I knew then that something special was going on. “The key thing was to create something totally different to all those watches you see in the tax free shops at airports. I wanted to make an object that people instantly fell completely in love with.” At the heart of his initial collection lay the beautiful Bichrono timepiece. In November 2003, just five months after its unveiling, the Bichrono was selected as a finalist at the prestigious Grand Prix de Geneve. It was the first watch in history to possess a double automatic chronograph movement. In 2004 the Bichrono went on to win the Unique Design Watch of the Year Award in Tokyo. “This is when the job became serious,” laughs Pierre. “We then got back together around a table – still with no marketing strategy in place – and again asked ourselves ‘what would we like to create?’ Even now, that is our operating method. Build something beautiful – don’t be driven by market research.”

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“The key thing was to create something totally different to all those watches you see in the tax free shops at airports”

Since then, deLaCour has created two world premiere complications, The Bitourbillon and The Birepetition. Adding this level of complexity to its work has sealed the company’s sterling reputation among watch aficionados. “The tourbillon model helped to get people talking about us, for sure,” admits Pierre. “It’s a very expensive piece to create, though, so we had to make sure we sold enough of our first model to fund it.” Since then, deLaCour has gone from strength to strength, creating startlingly different designs for both men and women. The Liberta piece, for example, features a watch that free floats in its case, surrounded by six carats of diamonds on two bezels, resulting in a watch face that can move in any direction. Telling the time can be tricky, as you

can’t rely on 12 o’clock being in the traditional position but, as a unique, inventive example of the art of watchmaking, it stands apart from much of the competition. More recently, the Promess line, which includes a luxurious dive watch and, arguably most impressive, a tie-up with iconic football coach Jose Mourinho, which resulted in the limited edition Mourinho City Ego Collection, has helped to further raise the brand’s profile. “Many celebritities are fans of deLaCour,” says Pierre. “The footballers Ronaldo and Guti, both own a customised Bichronos, and Lenny Kravitz, for example. I know Lenny personally. Jose Mourinho also felt like a natural fit for us. He has a confident character, with fierce drive and independence, which perfectly encapsulates our brand.” Above: The award-winning Bichrono Tech Left: Jessica Simpson wearing one of the City Leap collection Right: The City Leap Classic framed in Yellow baguettes

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deLaCour frostof london.co.uk

Attention to detail and a constant effort to push forward help to make deLaCour such an exciting watchmaker; and Pierre is sceptical of watch brands that play on their centuries-old heritage to reinforce their luxury credentials. “We produce to the highest standard and are obsessed with detail,” he says. “We are totally different to these so-called prestige brands who produce 40,000 pieces a year. Ours is a slow process and we have a low output. Let’s face it, high volume means that there is no rarity value. That is not a prestige brand in my opinion. Big brands, who still play on the fact that they launched in 1790 or whatever, have lost their way a little in this respect.” DeLaCour’s low production volume also allows for customisation options on all their watches. Indeed, when the Tempus team was at this year’s Baselworld watch expo, the company’s press officer took a diamond-studded timepiece from a safe, allowing us a brief look at a bespoke one-off watch that was valued at around £4.5m. “Yes, we get some very unusual requests,” confirms Pierre. “We have some crazy customers. Someone asked us to integrate Blackberry technology into one of our watches – James Bond style. It was tricky but we pulled it off.” And this is the essence of deLaCour. A company born from one man’s vision to create a watch he would wear, without pressure or advice from shareholders or marketers. A brand whose strapline – ‘Since Tomorrow’ – defines a company that is constantly advancing, rather than living off past glories. As Pierre says: “We will never stop evolving. My clients are forward-thinking futurologists – sexy and desirable people – and the watches we produce will continue to mirror that.”

“We have some crazy customers. Someone asked us to integrate Blackberry technology into one of our watches – James Bond style. It was tricky but we pulled it off ”

In brief What other watch brands do you admire? I admire any brand with a

bold, singular idea, such as Urwerk. Companies that have struggled and sweated to create something special and different.

What would we find in your watch collection? I don’t have one.

I am a walking advert for our brand. Every time someone sees a watch I have on, they want to buy it. How can I refuse?

Is there a watch that you wished you’d designed? This may surprise

you, but I would say the Casio G-Shock. People think of it as a cheap throwaway Japanese watch but it’s cute and the design will stand the test of time. It will survive forever, believe me.

If you could be anywhere in the world right now, where would that be? As long as I am with my

love, I don’t mind where I am.

If you could edit a part of your past, what would you change and why? Hmm, I’d like to cancel

out meetings I’ve had with a few people over the course of my life.

What can’t you live without?

There is a long, long list but, in truth, all I need is a pen and paper or, better still, a canvas, a brush and paint. Then I can continue to create.

Right: The City Ego II Episode, in white with Light Blue baguettes

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Messika frostof london.co.uk

Diamond Valerie Messika’s jewllery has set the fashion world alight. We reveal why this self-confessed ‘rock chick’ has become one of this year’s hottest designers

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or as long as she can remember, Valerie Messika has been surrounded by diamonds. Her father, Andre Messika, is a leading figure in the highly exclusive world of Parisian diamond merchants and his passion for the precious stones left an indelible impression on her. As the first of his six children, it’s unsurprising that she joined the family business but, being an independent spirit, simply dealing in diamonds wasn’t enough. She had a creative calling that could only be satisfied through design. With her father’s approval, and on the understanding that diamonds would always form the cornerstone of her work, Valerie embarked on a new venture — to create a new jewellery house. And Messika Jewellery was born. “From my father, I learned about the importance of bringing passion to your work, and about working hard. At university, I learned about how to market a business. But it was my yearning to create that provided the springboard for Messika Jewellery,” she says. From its birth in 2003, Messika Jewellery has gone on to become one of Europe’s most sought-after brands. It now offers a vast range, encompassing everything from the

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Messika frostof london.co.uk

A piece from Messika’s Move range (below); actress Alexandra Lamy (wearing a Messika piece) and husband Jean Dujardin attend the Cannes Film Festival last year (bottom)

beautiful Butterfly range and the iconic Move selection to the rock chic stylings of the brand’s fabulous snake necklaces. These creations have been seen everywhere from the catwalk to the Cannes Film Festival, the latter occasion seeing French actress (and wife of the Oscar-winning star of The Artist Jean Dujardin), Alexandra Lamy, sporting a Messika piece on the red carpet. “My personal philosophy is carpe diem (seize the day) and it’s that spirit of enjoying every moment that informs my work,” says Valerie. “I don’t follow trends – I simply design what I know feels right. My pieces aren’t flamboyantly ostentatious, but nor are they discreetly refined. They join the dots, if you like, between classicism and modernity.” Describing her own style as “casual, with a little bit of rock chick thrown in”, Valerie’s designs have a playful, sensual appeal. The success story of the Messika collection – the Move range – is the perfect embodiment of that aesthetic. These pieces comprise three moving diamonds trapped in a

“I remember the f irst time I saw a woman in the street wearing a Move pendant and sporting a Rolex watch. She was casual, young and cool ” narrow opening of a curved casing, with the gems sliding up and down as the wearer moves. “Move is the most popular range we produce,” confirms Valerie. “I remember the first time I saw a woman in the street wearing a Move pendant and sporting a Rolex watch. She was casual, young and cool – exactly who I had in mind when I designed the collection.” Until fairly recently, the Messika Jewellery phenomenon was a word of mouth affair, known to the cognoscenti and privileged few, but confirmation of the brand’s standing as a style leader came two years ago at the 2010 Baselworld jewellery expo in Switzerland. “It was a truly special moment,” says Valerie. “Our stand had five desks, all of which were busy with enquiries from people from all over the world, and there even were people queuing up to sit down and chat. I knew then that my dreams were becoming a reality.” Part of this success is through technological innovation. The Messika skinny bracelet, part of the diamond line, for

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Messika frostof london.co.uk

A selection of radical, diamond-encrusted pieces from Messika Jewellery’s range

“I like to think that I have a design ‘signature’ running through all of my work”

example, combines a 1ct stone with a stretch bracelet, allowing owners to wear it in several different ways. “It’s like the jewellery version of a little black dress,” says Valerie. “Fun, versatile and cool.” At the upper end of the scale, Messika also offers a €300,000 necklace featuring unusual oval diamonds. “It sits very close to the neck, almost like a choker.” Like all talented designers, though, Valerie acknowledges the influence of some of the world’s most brilliant innovators, particularly those who have stayed true to their vision. “Lagerfeld, Gaultier, Alber Elbaz at Lanvin,” says Valerie. “All have kept a definitive style, like a painter, like Basquiat, while still constantly innovating their designs. I like to think that, like them, I have a design ‘signature’ running through all of my work. I’m also a great admirer of Cartier, which is an amazing institution. They do affordable pieces right through to the highest-end jewellery.” It’s a business strategy that could equally be applied to Messika, and one which will see the company grow and grow. All based, of course, around the diamond, in all its forms and cuts, and all sourced from her father, the man who helped to make Valerie’s dreams a reality.

In brief What’s your favourite watch?

I’m currently wearing a vintage Rolex Paul Newman, which I love. I’m also a big fan of IWC watches.

If you could be anywhere in the world right now, where would that be?

I would love to live in New York. There’s such a dynamic energy to the city and it’s perfect for small businesses. People want you to do well.

What can’t you live without? My daughter, of course.

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Watch Safes Illustration – James Hines

Saving Time

When it comes to storing fine timepieces, your sock drawer is far too insecure, a bank vault is far too inconvenient, and both seem unfittingly mundane. What you need is a luxury safe, precisely configured to your watch collection specification and tastefully matched to your drawing room’s décor

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Watch Safes Words – Alex Doak and Hannah Silver

Fine wines, cigars, cars, suits… modern luxury affords the discerning gent a host of prized investment possessions, most of which can be stowed in a cellar, garage or wardrobe with relative peace of mind. But one particular passion – watches – presents a conundrum of sorts. Thanks to their laborious craftsmanship

and concentrated use of precious materials, they are tiny packages of disproportionately high value – and therefore eminently stealable. And yet stashing these marvels securely, out of sight and out of mind? It almost seems an insult to that diligent Swiss watchmaker. Here, then, are some of the best safes for storing your prestige timepieces.

Best for vintage style Döttling

The Legends series produces stunning one-of-a-kind safes that have been restored from antiques. Pieces that have undergone restoration include a safe commissioned by the last Medici of Milan in 1740, and a Wilhelminian security cabinet from the early 20th century. The go-to brand for aesthetically exceptional pieces.

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Best for bolt-ons Buben & Zorweg

Best for exhibitionists Time Safe

A good choice if you want to see and enjoy your watches while they are safely locked up, Time Safe allow timepieces to be cradled in watch holders and admired behind bullet-proof glass.

Safes from the Titan range are sleekly designed and exceptionally secure. Weighing an impressive 730 kg, the safe uses a highsecurity Swiss locking system to ensure complete impregnability. With space for 36 watches, these safes offer enticing extras such as a humidor.

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luxurywatchsafe.com

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Watch safes Words – Alex Doak

Style & substance Heavy duty combined with real beauty – Stockinger makes safes like no other

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s luxury watches have boomed over the past two decades, many fine cabinet makers such as Erwin Sattler and Buben & Zorweg have recognised this new breed of collector and his desire to store his watches in style, building showcases that often combine added options such as a champagne fridge. And thanks to Scatola del Tempo’s invention of 1986, a collection of automatic watches can be kept wound by the motorised rotation of their mounts. “But these brands are not really ‘safes’ in the true sense, they are fancy boxes,” says Dominik von Ribbentrop, whose company Stockinger were the first to create genuine high-security safes with a finish befitting their contents. “In the Nineties, we started making safes that were different from the boring grey boxes buried in wardrobes or hidden behind paintings. We started making safes with high-tech electronic codes [the patented and highly secure Stocktronic system], painted lacquer exteriors, leather interiors, gold handles, watch winders…” What also sets Stockinger apart is the degree of customisation it offers – a host of mix-and-match, madeto-measure options of trim and interior configurations that the customer can specify, in much the same way as you would with a new car. Stockinger will even assess the size

and weight of your individual watches before specifying and programming your safe’s watch winders. “We do have some ‘loud’ customers, who order bright red and gold handles for example,” reveals Ribbentrop, “but we’re mostly suited to more conservative sorts. “In fact, a lot of our recent clients have just moved into One Hyde Park,” he says, referring to Candy & Candy’s uber-luxurious Knightsbridge complex, “and they are very picky about the sort of leather, wood and lacquer used for their safe – they want it to exactly match the interior décor of their apartment.” As you’d expect from a safe company, however, there’s plenty of substance beyond the style. According to Ribbentrop, a Stockinger has never been broken into – and there are already many thousands out there on the market. “It’ll take six to seven hours if you know what you’re doing,” he says proudly, “but really the only way to cut through is with oxy-acetylene cutting equipment. And no one would do that because it would destroy the contents of the safe.” So what happens in the inevitable case of a client forgetting their keycode? “In that case, we have a hotline to the best safecracker in Germany. He knows Stockinger’s product inside-out, but it still takes about 90 minutes for him to get one open…”

“It’ll take six to seven hours if you know what you’re doing”

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Take Stockinger Founded in 1975 by Hans Stockinger, bought in 2003 by Dominik von Ribbentrop Entry-level ‘Cube’ safe start at €30,000, a top-spec ‘Phoenix’ costs €125,000 Each safe is comprised of around 250 parts, and assembled in situ at Stockinger’s factory outside Munich Every safe fulfills the highest demands of German test institution VdS’s ‘IV’ classification, based on resistance to tool attack, anchoring strength, locks, and detonation Stockinger’s motorised watch winders will soon be programmable using your smartphone, over a local wi-fi network

stockinger.com

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Travel Illustration – Ellie Foreman-Peck

Swooping through the clouds above Victoria Falls, cuddling elephants at Sun City, shovelling coal on a steam train, sipping fine wine on safari - Southern Africa offers unreal adventure and pure luxury Words – Frank Broughton

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on th e

edge heaven of

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e’ll have to land in a few minutes. We’ll skim the trees and hit the dusty red landing strip and this incredible flight will be over. I’m trying to burn the visuals to memory – it’s one of the most amazing things I’ve ever done. Right now though, I’m still in the sky, eyes blazing, with the whole mad experience roaring into my head. A microlight makes you an eagle. Instead of peering through a plane window at a 3D cloudscape outside, you’re right in there, swooping round the fluff, looking down on a world which is suddenly a hundred times brighter and bigger. I watch the Zambezi river lumbering across the African planet until it falls down a crack and disappears into Zimbabwe, sending up a boiling column of cloud from its waterfalls. Mosi-oa-Tunya the locals named it, ‘the smoke that thunders’. From the ground Victoria Falls is an incredible enough sight: a mile-wide cliff hung with churning plumes of water. Thanks to the geography you can get close enough on foot for the spray to soak you like a

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01

02

03

_01 Watching the

sun set from The African Queen _02 Soaring above Victoria Falls in a microlight _03 A luxury Pullman steams through Zambia

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Travel

Stain Musungaila: man about town

tropical rainstorm. But up in the air it’s breathtaking. There’s just me and the pilot, a poetic German, in a supersized paper aeroplane. We fly to the lip of the falls, and as the river drops out from under us – 3,000 tons of it a second – we keep on going. Wooaaaah! We buzz through a cloud and it has the scent of the river. Our shadow glows with a rainbow halo. “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight,” says my wing commander, quoting explorer David Livingstone who first claimed the sight for European eyes. We swoop on some zebra, catch buffalo in a clearing and generally zip around like Superman. This is just one in a roll-call of memory-busting experiences that Zambia has to offer. Not to mention the inevitable white-water rafting, or high-wires, bungee jumping, horse-riding, quad-biking and safaris of all stripes. And you can easily combine wild adventure with full-on luxury. This isn’t a place where extreme experiences mean roughing it with a sleeping bag and some Cup-a-Soup. I arrive at the hotel by speedboat. That evening I board The African Queen for an all-inclusive chug upstream. There aren’t many places better suited to watching a sunset than a three-deck riverboat complete with over-enthusiastic waiters. Unless, that is, you try my dining experience the following night. This time it’s steam-era opulence, with cocktails in the observation car of a luxury Pullman pulled through the bush by a clunking great Edwardian locomotive. After the immaculate dinner I can’t resist talking my way onto the footplate where the stoker lets me shovel coal into the boiler. My hotel, The Royal Livingstone, is without parallel: five-star perfection in a unique location at the head of the falls. A morning stroll finds a hippo lurking offshore; I book a massage and my knots are pummelled a few feet from the endless rolling river. Giraffe and springbok roam the grounds; princes and presidents book the rooms. The finest is the presidential suite. Staff list the many heads of state who’ve checked in. As they show off the facilities it occurs to me – I’m looking at Mugabe’s microwave. There’s an inescapable colonial tint to the idea of luxury in Africa: the butlers in red sashes, the footmen in white shorts and pith helmets, but Zambia seems fond of its original white man. Livingstone, the nearest city (and once the capital), never changed its name, and there are statues and photos of the good doctor all over the place. Livingstone today is a sleepy sprawl of houses and markets around a single urban strip. My farewell to Zambia is here: a great night of live music at the Pub And Grill (next to King Pie 2 Go), though the girls from the hotel leave me with the slinky afrobeat band downstairs, preferring to grind their hips to global R&B in the upstairs disco. That’s just how it is in Livingstone, I presume. And so to a valley north of Johannesburg. Sun City is a deranged movie set – Afro Vegas. From origins in South Africa’s dubious homelands policy, when it offered a

Welcome guests

Western luxury in the face of local poverty is a loaded subject. The Royal Livingstone employs a fulltime social investment coordinator tasked with helping the hotel leave a positive footprint. Stain Musungaila is quite a character; as we jeep through Livingstone’s shanty towns he’s assailed by wellwishers; he’s undoubtedly plugged in to all corners of the town’s life. However cynical you are about the do-good efforts of a multinational hotel chain, having a force like Stain in charge gives their CSR efforts some traction. It’s easy to say that encouraging local agriculture is about improving the hotel’s supply chain, but that’s incidental for the blind people who’ve stopped begging and become farmers.

And the more you talk to Stain, a former merchant seaman educated in Liverpool, the more you see how his mind works. Like investing in a scheme to educate tailors by recycling old sheets and uniforms from the hotel into doormats, tie-dye and shopping bags. Or getting to grips with bees. Let me explain – at the farm, Stain talks with Clement, one of the farm managers, about the damage done by hungry elephants last season. Apparently bees are the secret to keeping elephants out of your vegetable patch, so they are investing in some hives. Someone learns beekeeping, the hotel gets locally sourced honey, and the farm protects itself against marauding tuskers.

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Travel

01

superficial respite – for those who could afford it – from some of the oppressions of apartheid and was largely about golf, gambling and big-name concerts, it’s now a massive complex with four hotels, lakes and handy access to 550sq km of game reserve. At its summit the Palace hotel combines five-star luxury with theme-park make-believe – an epic royal residence lost in jungle ruins. Fountains spray from massive bronze antelope heads; there are grand columns, monster chandeliers, zebra-skin thrones and life-size elephant statues. The rooms look out across rocky grottos and countless waterfalls. Somewhere, surely, there must be a Bond villain stroking a baby cheetah. High rollers can dine in the suite where Mandela takes cocktails, indulging the fantastic cellars and obsessive sommelier. Food is beautifully prepared and presented without much reserve. In Sun City, as in Vegas, more means more. A morning safari and my inner David Attenborough is breaking through my fine wine hangover. Our guide knows his stuff and there are giraffes, zebras, a rare daytime hyena, and even the backside of a lion as he disappears into the undergrowth where the family’s feeding on a wildebeest. Though we can’t see more than some twitching grass, when the ignition’s switched off you can hear them crunching bones with an occasional growl, just feet away. Even more astonishing is a visit to the elephant orphanage, where full-grown jumbos are happy to be stroked and tickled. Buckets of elephant Cheerios come out and the big wrinklies literally eat out of your hands. As they curve a trunk round you to get their nibbles, or even cuddle you to their nose for a photo, it’s hard to believe these huge animals are real – legs as big as a man, head the size of a washing machine. Then the dinosaur bulk of the rhino as three wild ones emerge from the bush, looking closer to those misimagined 16th century engravings than you’d think. To be drinking a cold beer while these prehistoric headbutters gently trim the grass is yet another amazing African privilege. But this year the number of rhinos poached in South Africa alone is already past double figures. So to any Chinese medicine aficionados reading this: please get a grip. Rhino horn is nothing more than the world’s rarest toenail; you’re confusing Viagra with genocide. On the last day I join the holiday throng at the Valley of the Waves, a beach made perfect by its very artificiality: no jellyfish, sugar-crystal sand and a machine that delivers waves big enough to surf. Few of the kids here can swim, so when the gentler ripples give way to giant tsunamis, it’s like a disaster movie filled with teenage squeals and body surfing. Here you see the true rainbow nation at play. And though it’s no counter-argument to the tin-shack poverty that exists right outside this Jumanji Disneyland, if South Africa honours the frail Mandela and stays true to his vision, this happy corner of Sun City gives a fine impression of where this young country might one day get to.

How to do it

Tempus travelled as a guest of Sun International and South African Airways. South African Airways has the largest route network within Southern Africa, offering flights to over 30 destinations from its hubs in Johannesburg and Cape Town. Last year the airline took delivery of brand new A330-200 aircraft. For more information call 0844 375 9680 or go to flysaa.com For more information about Sun International please visit

suninternational.com

Travelbag is offering four nights at the five-star Palace of the Lost City, staying on a B&B basis, and three nights at the five-star Royal Livingstone, staying on a B&B basis, from £2,099pp including flights with South African Airlines from London Heathrow. For travel 1-30 June 2012. To book call 0871 703 4240 or visit

travelbag.co.uk

_01 The Palace of the Lost City at Sun City – 338 luxury rooms nestled amid botanical gardens _02 The carved lobby and staircase leading to the Palace’s Crystal Court restaurant _03 The lounge in the Palace’s king suite. The suite also has two jacuzzis, a sauna and a library

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Photography - suninternational.com and livingstonesadventure.com


Motoring Words – Kyle Fortune

Showstopper Price £1.75M – subject to VAT and local taxes Performance 0-62mph (0-100km/h) – sub 2.9 seconds

Top speed

circa 217mph /350km/h

Engine 700hp 6.5-litre V12 petrol

Transmission

7 Speed paddleshifted auto, four-wheel drive

Construction

Carbon fibrereinforced monocoque

One car was the star at Geneva this year –and it wasn’t the one we were expecting Lamborghini relishes in creating spoilers for its arch rivals at Ferrari and, with the Geneva Motor Show pencilled in for the reveal of Ferrari’s latest V12 flagship, Lamborghini needed something to claim the limelight. Step up the Aventador J. If the standard Aventador isn’t unhinged enough this open-topped, no windscreen, carbon-fibre version of their V12 model turns the insanity level up to 11. The J was designed by Filippo Perini and his team after Lamborghini CEO Stephan Winkelmann asked them to create ‘something special’ for Geneva. More than merely a roofless, windscreen-less Aventador, the J actually only shares a few panels with its coupe relation. The rest of its construction is totally unique. This J already sold to one of Lamborghini’s best customers for a reported £1.75m (before taxes) – £1.5m more than the standard Aventador LP700-4 which it’s based on. In the world of one-off hypercars that’s relatively cheap, even if Lamborghini admits that the entire project was turned around in just six weeks. Officially the J here is a

nod to the FIA’s (Fédération Internationale de l’Automobile) Appendix J regulations governing the technical regulations of sports cars. Those calling it the Jota – after Lamborghini’s most extreme one-off Miura – aren’t being corrected though. One thing that’s certain is that the J is Lamborghini’s most radical car yet, and from Lamborghini that’s saying something. Removing the roof and windscreen has cut weight, so the 700hp 6.5 V12 engine delivers even greater performance. The J’s owner will be able to reach 62mph in under 2.9 seconds and reach a theoretical top speed of 217mph. Theoretical because we’re not sure how the open top would affect the J’s high-speed aerodynamics. Regardless, we’d want to be wearing a helmet, as the buffeting is certain to be fearsome. Only one person is ever likely to find out, as the J remains an absolute one-off. Unless, of course, you have a spare couple of million to hand, in which case we’re guessing that Lamborghini would take your call.

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000_Ad.indd 1

30/04/2012 10:36


WADDESDON MANOR HERE, ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE When you want people to think differently, get enthused and feel inspired, you need a change of scenery. And you can’t get a better change than the grandeur and tranquility of Waddesdon Manor. Let us take you on a private tour of the world-famous Rothschild Collection followed by an exclusive Grands Vins wine tasting with a Master of Wine, where you will sample Châteaux Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild in the Manor’s Wine Cellars housing 15,000 bottles of wine dating back to 1870. We will welcome you to Windmill Hill, our newly completed contemporary complex commissioned by Lord Rothschild to house The Rothschild Foundation to coordinate his philanthropic work. Here you can hold private meetings amongst works by Richard Long, Anish Kapoor, Edmund de Waal, Humberto and Fernando Campana. Set in tranquil parkland on the Waddesdon estate, the Dairy’s beautiful lakeside setting makes meetings and entertaining a pleasure with absolute exclusivity guaranteed. Come and breathe fresh Chilterns’ air and work up a healthy appetite for a delicious lunch of local fresh produce and make your business a pleasure. Conveniently located close to the M40 and M25 with excellent links to London, Birmingham and Oxford. Waddesdon Manor, Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire HP18 0JH Telephone: 01296 653241 Email: events.waddesdon@nationaltrust.org.uk www.waddesdon.org.uk

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08/05/2012 16:32


Grooming

The

long & short

Square Shape: A classic angular face with a strong jawline, broad forehead and square hairline.

Style: Leave hair longer up top (at least an inch) and short at the sides, adding texture to soften your sharper features. “The current David Beckham look is a good example of this,” says Carmelo. “A high flicked fringe helps to give the face some length.”

of it

Avoid: Puffy styles that add volume and width. Triangular Shape: A wide forehead and pointy chin

Style: You have the perfect excuse to go for the classic schoolboy cut. Sweeping fringe, full on the sides, and lots of texture. “The floppy fringed posh boy look, as favoured by Hugh Grant, would work here,” says Carmelo.

Avoid: Showing too much forehead, for obvious reasons. Round Shape: A face that is of almost-equal distance in length and width, and rounded at the chin and cheeks. Style: Keep the hair up top spiky or softly layered and up to three inches long, and take the clippers to any hair past the crown area. “The key thing is to ensure the haircut has a square feel to it,” says Carmelo.

Avoid: A middle parting. If you have to have one, make sure it’s to the side to make things less symmetrical.

An oval face-shape is considered the ideal for both men and women, and if you don’t have one then your haircut should give the illusion that you do. Our resident grooming expert, Carmelo Guastella, managing director of Melogy in London’s St Pancras Hotel, reveals the looks that will keep every face shape in proportion

Rectangular Shape: A long face, with a straight cheek line and possibly angular features.

Style: Go for a style that’s full on the top and fuller at the sides to create width. Messy and tousled looks are fashionable and suit your face shape. “Channel your inner indie rocker with this one,” says Carmelo. “Without looking like you’ve just done two hours in the mosh pit of a gig, obviously.” Avoid: Very short cuts (and, as if we need to say it, mohawks) they’ll make your face look even longer.

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Ultimate h o m e c i n e m a

Bowers & Wilkins PV1D

No matter how good your speakers, to enjoy the sensation of Tie fighters swooping overhead, you need a proper subwoofer. And they don’t come any better than this classic B&W model which resembles a cannonball and has recently been redesigned to outgun its rivals even more comprehensively. Get at least two or, for huge low-end grunt, plonk one in each corner.

ÂŁ1,000 each bowers-wilkins.co.uk

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Technology Words - Alex Pell

We reveal the world’s best kit for sensory overload

Meridian DSP7200 speaker system

When it comes to classy home cinema there are two schools of thought: tuck the speakers away in the walls or make a design statement with some floor-standing beauties. We are firmly in the latter camp. This Meridian system is comprised of four DSP7200 speakers (each of which is about 1m tall), plus a horizontal version for the centre channel, and couple of bits of essential processing-electronica. Once set up the package will produce the best sound money can buy, for music or movies, unless you are prepared to move up to truly industrial-sized kit. Each speaker contains its own potent built-in amplification, so there’s no need for a rack of ugly amps. Best of all, they can be individually customised to pretty much any colour. So you could match them to your tangerine decor or, for the bold at heart, opt for a full rainbow spectrum.

circa £58,000 meridian-audio.com

SIM2 Grand Cinema C3X 3D-S

If you want serious homecinema, you need a serious projector, and you may as well have the one Francis Ford Coppola helped fashion. SIM2 makes the world’s best projectors and this, its flagship model, is the first to reproduce 3D properly. If you balk at wearing glasses, be assured that its conventional performance is spectacular too. The projector is sold in white, black or red and is barely larger than mainstream choices, though it’ll leave a bigger dent in your bank balance.

Denon DBP-2010UD

Despite the advent of purely digital video-sources for quality and overall simplicity, there is still no substitute for a Blu-ray disc spinner. This Denon delivers an elegant design and, once partnered with an appropriate system such as the kit selected here, offers beautiful visuals and thrilling sonics. It’s also 3D-capable, plays CDs and can upscale your DVD collection to HD.

£30,000 sim2.com

£500 denon.co.uk

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30/04/2012 15:49


Superyachts Words - Ellie Brade

Playtime

Summer is coming, and the range, quality and fun-factor of superyachts is getting better every year. We climb aboard some of the best

W Above: E&E Waterbuggy Above right: 62m Viareggio superyacht RoMa

ith the Med summer cruising season just round the corner, charter and private superyachts have a busy few months of entertaining ahead of them. With nearly 700 yachts available, the biggest question for those lucky enough to be in the position of chartering a yacht is which vessel to choose. In an attempt to entice guests, yachts are increasingly decked out with appealing design features, a vast array of far-out additions, and a plethora of toys and tenders on board.

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Superyachts

Take 62m RoMa and 40m Miss Michelle, for example, which both have the enviable Freestyle Cruiser slide (see bottom left), so guests can slide from the deck of the yacht straight into the ocean. Or 50m Exuma, which carries a Range Rover-style tender that can drive straight from sea to land: it’s the ultimate exploration tool in a remote location. Exuma has a host of toys and tenders and also houses a Hov Pod tender, capable of skimming across the water at speed. 42m explorer yacht E&E has the unique Waterbuggy, which was a huge hit during the ship’s debut at the 2011 Monaco Yacht Show.

The Sofia III, due to launch from Moonen Yachts later this year, will carry its very own yellow submarine While there is plenty to do on the water, some yachts go a step further. The 42m Sofia III, due to launch from Moonen Yachts later this year, will carry its very own yellow submarine. Another underwater toy under development is the Q-Sub 2400 (pictured top), a two or three-man planing submarine from Q-Subs. Capable of travelling at 20kn on the surface and diving to 120m (400ft), with an underwater speed of 3kn, the sub will no doubt be on the waiting list for many a yacht on completion. There are plenty of off-water features that appeal too. 62.5m Baton Rouge features an elegant beach club at water level, allowing guests to enjoy close proximity to the sea without getting wet. Charter favourite 45m Big Fish features a floor to ceiling video wall, spanning three decks and made up of 50cm x 117cm plasma screens. After a day of fun on the water, guests can upload the footage of the day on to the screen as their very own living art. Chartering a superyacht is one of the most wonderful ways in the world to enjoy time on the water amid beautiful surroundings. The huge variety of toys and tenders available on board ensures that there is a yacht out there for everyone, whatever your style, taste or penchant for supercool gadgets.

Ellie Brade is the editor of Superyacht Intelligence, part of The Superyacht Group

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www.chapman-freeborn.com More than 30 offices worldwide


Travel Words – Scott Manson

Giants of the jungle 100

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In Thailand’s Golden Triangle, beyond Bangkok and the beaches, elephants who once worked in the region’s now illegal logging trade share five-star luxury with the tourists – and provide an old-fashioned way to get around

S

overweight journalist would present few problems to one of these gentle giants, a revered symbol of the Thai nation who for hundreds of years have helped locals haul wood and transport goods through the sweltering jungles. The journey to the Four Seasons Tented Camp was eerie, but in a good way. A hour’s drive through winding, dark roads from Chiang Rai airport took us to a pitted backcountry road studded with burning candles. Under a tiny gazebo sheltered a man holding a lantern which cast a spooky glow over the chugging wooden long-tail boat at the jetty. “Welcome to the Golden Triangle,” he said softly, almost drowned out by the chatter of cicadas. My arrival was announced by a Rank Films-style metal gong. Clearly, this doubled up as a dinner gong as I was ushered into the Nong Yao restaurant for a late-night feast. There’s a western-style set menu for the less adventurous, but to order the steak or clam chowder would be near-blasphemy in such a setting. Prawns, chicken and the shredded red buds of the banana tree, among other things, on to my plate, but its brilliance, as with all the best Thai dishes, lay in the complexity of its seasonings – sour in the front of the mouth (tamarind pulp), fiery in the back (dried chillies), and sweetly nutty at the top (coconut cream). Eating it left me reeling with pleasure. There was wonderful tom kha gai, that vibrant chicken soup. Hot, rich and sharp, it owed everything to the liltingly fresh,

Photography - Fourseasons.com

ome people are worried about the difference between right and wrong, I’m worried about the difference between wrong and fun. Friends of mine had looked disapproving on hearing that I was off to Thailand to ride elephants, but in truth animal welfare wasn’t top of my mind when booking the trip. My concerns were about the location – deep in the jungle of the Golden Triangle, among the once impenetrable hills overlooking Laos and Burma. This vast, sparsely populated region, bisected by the Mekong river, is a place where I suspected people go to commune with nature and just come home with a lot of reasons to scratch. Thailand for me has always been about the buzz of Bangkok or the hammock days by its southern beaches. Wild horses couldn’t normally drag me to its interior but, it seems, tame elephants could. That, and the knowledge that these beasts whose smell and lurch I’d soon be familiar with were part of the Four Seasons empire. If anyone could make jungle living palatable, I thought, it’s one of the world leaders in luxury living. It turned out my animal-loving friends needn’t have worried. Rescued from the streets of Bangkok and cared for by an elephant sanctuary, the elephants here have freedom to roam the jungle at night, their own bathing pool and all the bamboo shoots and sugar cane they can eat. Even an

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Travel

Photography - Fourseasons.com

vividly perfumed lemongrass, holy basil, coriander, coconut milk and kaffir lime leaves that flavoured it, along with the obligatory chilli. A contented burp and a coffee signalled to the staff that I was ready to hit the hay. The camp has 15 tents set into a hillside overlooking the Ruak river which flows into and is about one mile west of the Mekong, where Laos, Thailand and Myanmar all come together to form the Golden Triangle. These are tents, though, like Ronaldo can kick a ball a bit or Stephen Hawking knows his way around a calculator. The floors are teak, the refrigerator fully stocked. I pour myself a drink and decide which of the posh unguents will be tipped into the huge freestanding copper bath. I leap on to the double king-size bed and rub my face on the Frette linen sheets. This is ridiculous. Wonderful, obviously, but utterly daft. The walls may be canvas, but this is not camping. There’s even wi-fi, for God’s sake. It’s a five-star hotel in a stunning setting with some flimsy walls, and I love it. This is a luxury bolt-hole but the big draw, of course, is the elephants. Deep in this jungle terrain, with little-visited villages, paddy-carpeted valleys dotted with wooden farmhouses, rolling hills with lush foliage and jutting limestone cliffs, is the Four Seasons’ private elephant camp. This is where guests learn to become mahouts (elephant drivers) and can navigate their own big grey taxi through the dense, tangled undergrowth. It isn’t uncommon to see elephants padding along the streets of Bangkok and other cities around Thailand, where people will pay money to play with or feed them – even though this practice is illegal and damaging to the elephants. Their natural home is in the jungles, and the

“The walls may be canvas but this is not camping. It’s a f ive-star hotel with flimsy walls in a stunning setting, and I love it” The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation

Elephants once worked in the teak forests of Northern Thailand, helping to transport timber. After the ban on logging in 1989, these elephants became a financial burden and many owners resorted to taking them into big cities, which is illegal and unsafe, but where people pay to touch and feed them. Four Seasons works with The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation to house and care for elephants, including old elephants

who have spent years working in logging, baby elephants separated from their mothers before their natural weaning age and elephants who have been working in and roaming cities. Many of these elephants are cared for on-site, where they live in their natural habitat with proper veterinary care and an endless supply of their natural diet, including bananas and sugar cane.

Go to helpingelephants.org for more information and to donate.

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10/05/2012 16:24


Travel

Photography - Fourseasons.com

“It’s similar to being on a gently rocking ship. A ship with a mind of its own that will stop for a quick munch on a tree whenever it fancies”

Four Seasons Tented Camp works with charities to help bring city elephants back to safety. Time spent around the elephants here reveals their intelligence, grace and majesty. The difference at this camp compared to the ‘pony ride’-style attractions in other parts of the country is that these animals are properly looked after. Rather than hauling wood or entertaining the public all day, they get a couple of hours with a tourist sitting on their back and then a Four Seasons bed for the night. These are the pampered celebrities of the elephant world. And so it is with a clear conscience that I begin my mahout class. Getting on is the first challenge. The best way to mount an elephant, we’re told, is to climb onto its head by scampering up a leg and then the trunk. The guides teach us some basic commands, such as ‘song song’, which signals the elephant to lift its leg so you can climb aboard. It feels unbelievably wrong at first. I’m thinking, this thing looks like a bloody dinosaur, and there’s nothing I’ve experienced up till now that has prepared me for it. The next step is to shimmy up the neck until you reach the ropes. There you sit with your legs gripping the neck and your hands scraping across its brush-like bristles. Once we were moving, the feeling was similar to being aboard a gently rocking ship. A ship, mind you, with a mind of its own that will stop for a quick munch on half a tree whenever it fancies, and no amount of your pathetic

nudging and mumbling ‘pai’ (go forward) in its ear is going to stop it. “It’s natural to feel nervous,” said head mahout Khun Aukkrachai as my beast lunged once more into the undergrowth to chomp on another branch. At least I felt the part, in my specially designed mahout suit, made from tasteful light blue denim. The delighted squeals from a couple of elderly American women behind me suggested I wasn’t the only one finding the jungle trek disconcerting. After a while though, like riding a bike or paddling a kayak, you gradually get into the rhythm and begin to enjoy the view from ten feet up. And there’s nothing like elephant training, and the loss of dignity when you clamber on one, to bond with your fellow campers. Sipping a sundowner with my new mahout recruits at the camp’s Burma Bar a little later, we reflected on the brand of beer we were sipping. It was Chang – Thailand’s elephant-themed lager – the perfect synergy for a holiday package with prize pachyderms.

How to do it

Rates at Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle start at £1,857 per room per night based on two people sharing, including taxes.

Go to fourseasons.com/goldentriangle or call 00800 6488 6488 for more information.

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Favoured by royalty and blessed with the perfect climate, it’s easy to see why so many people return to this exquisite Fuerteventura hotel after their f irst visit For a truly luxurious break only four hours flight from the UK, the Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahia Real is the smart choice. A favourite with visiting royals, the hotel is set in lush gardens and blends perfectly into the beautiful landscape of Fuerteventura, the island of eternal spring. Facing the turquoise sea, the hotel is situated on one of Europe’s finest white sand beaches in a truly idyllic location. The hotel itself offers everything the luxury traveler could desire, from fine dining in five fabulous restaurants to blissful pampering in the award-winning Bahia Vital Spa, which has over 3000m² dedicated to attaining perfect mind and body well-being. Impeccable personalised service sees staff cater to a guest’s every whim to ensure a truly unforgettable experience, while the 242 rooms and suites provide the perfect end to another day in paradise. TEL: + 34 928 537 153 re s e r v a t i o n s . b a h i a re a l @ a t l a n t i s h o t e l s . c o m w w w. a t l a n t i s b a h i a r e a l . c o m

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24/04/2012 18:49


Moments in time

Agift for JFK

Pictured here at his 1961 inauguration ceremony is “that guy from the Omega watch ad” – as comedian Jon Stewart joked in reference to the watch brand’s 2009 advertising campaign. The campaign was prompted by this picture of John F Kennedy wearing his 18ct gold Omega Ultra Thin wristwatch while delivering one of the greatest speeches in history (“Ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country”). Given to him by his friend and business associate Grant Stockdale a few months before the election, it featured the prescient inscription: “President of the United States John F Kennedy from his friend Grant”. The watch was bought back by Omega at an auction in 2005 for $350,000 and it can now be found in their museum in Biel, Switzerland.

omegawatches.com

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MESURE ET DÉMESURE

TONDA HEMISPHERES Rose gold Automatic movement Dual time zone indication Alligator Hermès strap

Made in Switzerland www.parmigiani.ch

London

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23/04/2012 09:53


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25/04/2012 11:32

Tempus 02  

Tempus magazine is the Ultra luxury lifestyle and watch magazine from Frost of London and Astongreenlake ltd.