BaselWorld preview / Jacob Arabo exclusive / travel trends / philanthrocapitalism superyachts / Shamballa jewels / Ben Ainslie / Formula 1 / Richard Corrigan / motoring
000_Ad.indd 2 Shamballa_AstonGreenlake_Mar2012.indd 2
Explore the Energy of Creation
G/vs diamonds & 18K rose gold
108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk
02/03/2012 2012-03-02 10:31 11.16
Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguette-shaped movement.
+44 (0) 1256 862 068
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Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back.
108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk
06/03/2012 09:52 10:23 01/03/2012
Panoramic Perspective by Sunseeker The Sunseeker 28 Metre Yacht
A global leader in the design and build of luxury motoryachts from 40 to 155 feet with a worldwide network of appointed distributors.
A very contemporary return to old traditional high-end standards FVa35 SUPERSONICO 5-minute Repeater SuperLigero Concept FRANC VILA exclusive calibre FV35 Limited edition of 88 pieces
“Not only mine, but a part of me”
Frost of London, +44 20 3372 0108 WWW.FRANCVILA.COM / INFO@FRANCVILA.COM
From the editor Welcome to the first edition of Tempus, the magazine for aficionados of quality timepieces and luxury living. As you’ll see, this is a watch magazine with a difference. A publication that celebrates the up and coming, nontraditional watch brands, as much as it does the established masters of the industry. In short, it’s a magazine for the new breed of watch enthusiast – someone for whom the style of their piece is as crucial as its complexity. Fine watches are universal; everyone appreciates a beautifully crafted timepiece. A recent trip to India epitomised this for me. It saw me attend, against my better judgement, a yoga retreat. We’ll draw a veil over my failed efforts to reverse years of bad posture and the handful of whining westerners who failed to ruffle the yoga teacher’s calm demeanour, much to his credit. After a day spent listening to constant carping about aching muscles, though, I wondered why he would do this job when, apparently, he’d already achieved spiritual nirvana. It was as he was getting changed after a class, that I noticed the flash on his wrist. A Rolex Submariner, no less. For a man used to being at one with the interconnectedness of our universe, it seemed fitting that his one concession to luxury was a miniature universe itself. Thankfully, we know that Tempus readers are under no such constraints. So read on, and discover the latest in all things luxe. Enjoy the issue.
issue one Editor
firstname.lastname@example.org Deputy Editor
email@example.com Art Director
Scott Manson Editor
Hannah Silver Business Development Director
firstname.lastname@example.org 020 3617 4688 Financial Director
Adam Hay-Nicholls As Metro’s F1 correspondent, and the author of ‘F1: The Definitive Guide’, Adam is well-placed to give us the lowdown from the paddock, pitlane and parties. Check out his pick for the new racing season on page 52.
Tempus is published 6 times a year by Aston Greenlake Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er. TEL: 020 3617 4688
Alex Doak Alex is a respected watch journalist and editor of Magnificent Man. This month sees him conduct an exclusive interview with legendary jeweller-turnedwatchmakerJacob Arabo, founder and owner of Jacob & Co. You can read his fascinating account on page 58.
Martin Redmayne Martin is the chairman of the Superyacht Group and publisher of several industryleading superyacht publications. On page 89, he describes the must-attend event in the Caribbean for yacht lovers.
108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk
Hot trends in luxury, bespoke travel 52 Formula One
We preview six of the best circuits for the new Formula One season 58 Jacob Arabo
The enfant terrible of hip-hop bling jewellery on his pride in his watchmaking division Inside issue one
12 Take me there
Going to Basel? Take a detour to breathtaking St-Ursanne 15 Luxury Briefing
Because, it turns out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all 21 The Word
The genial – and genius – Richard Corrigan of Bentley’s Oyster Bar 70 Shamballa
Mads and Mikkel Kornerup combine luxury and spirituality to create beautiful and unique jewellery
James Kirkham on social networking 76 What Lies Beneath for luxury brands; Alex Doak on the We sent Scott Manson to meet new breed of watchmakers; Eugene world-record holding freediver Tanya Costello on philanthrocapitalism Streeter. Don’t hold your breath. Actually, on second thoughts… 26 Objects of Desire Cyrus Kuros’s Monaco Grand Prix 82 Motoring Porsche’s 918 Spyder is unveiled 28 Basel Preview Our guide to the A-list supermodels 85 Grooming to watch out for at BaselWorld Tempus on the perfect wet shave 34 Substance
Why your wrist needs cuff love 37 Food & Drink
Cyrus Kuros Monaco Grand Prix 2012 See p26
Special thanks to Matthew Brand Rosalind Monks
Salvatore at the Playboy Club; Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester; Nick House’s latest wheeze and more 40 Fashion & Accessories
How to look a million dollars 43 Interview
We meet the sailing legend – and Corum ambassador – Ben Ainslie
Four magnificent – and technologically supreme – timepieces 89 Yachts
Join the yachting elite at the St Barth’s Bucket regatta 92 Travel
Frégate Private in the Seychelles has it all, from turquoise seas to tortoises 98 Moments in Time
Elvis and his Hamilton Ventura
Take me there
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Photography - Switzerland Tourism / Christof Sonderegger
Those attending the annual watch expo that is Baselworld might like to venture a little further afield through the Jura region of Switzerland. Here, in the traditional heartland of the Swiss watchmaking industry, visitors will be rewarded by picture perfect villages like this one. St-Ursanneâ€™s handsome 12th-century monastery, ancient cave network, castle and nearby nature reserve make it a fabulous spot for a contemplative wander. myswitzerland.com
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Because the best things in life arenâ€™t free
Top tech Richard mille
A true feat of engineering, the case of this stunning RM 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire is carved from solid blocks of sapphire. Cut with specially designed diamond-tipped tools, the case alone took over 1,000 hours of work, 350 of which were spent on polishing. Also boasting a skeletonised manual winding tourbillion movement, this watch is in a limited-edition run of just five pieces.
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Sophisticated elegance A lange & sĂ–hne If you like your luxury laced with elegance, the Lange 1 Tourbillion Perpetual Calendar is for you. This watch is the epitome of sophisticated simplicity thanks to the unobtrusive position of the calendar outside the hour and minute circles on the dial. Technically impressive too, the wow factor continues, thanks to its two classic complications â€“ flip over to see the tourbillion working its magic through the sapphire-crystal caseback. Go for the classic pink gold case, or for something extra special pick up a limited-edition platinum piece.
The man bag, reinvented WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie Cast aside all your prejudices about the man bag. The man who sees a departure lounge as their second home needs a seriously stylish carry-on. Step forward Want Les Essentiels de la Vie, which has a gorgeous set of travel bags in buttery soft Italian calfskin in a range of colours including black, burnt henna, grey and red. The Charleroi 48 HR travel bag is our pick of the bunch. Available at Liberty of London.
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Golden nectar Diamond Jubilee Whisky
For the ultimate in whisky, look no further than this £100,000 masterpiece, available in a limited run of just 60 bottles. John Walker & Sons have created a rare blend of grain and malt whiskies that have been maturing since 1952, ready to celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee this year. Contained in diamondshaped decanters in luxury crystal designed by Baccarat, and featuring silver adornments and a half-carat diamond, this is less a drink, more a work of art. Its ethical credentials are impeccable too, with all profits going to charity. We’ll drink to that.. 60 editions of Diamond Jubilee Blended Scotch Whisky by John Walker & Sons are available for sale worldwide. Interest can be expressed by emailing email@example.com
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Unique sounds Colorfly C4 Pro Combining the classic with the cutting-edge, this MP3 has some impressive tech qualifications. It’s the first portable player to play audio files of 192 KHz, with a jitter less than five picoseconds and a SNR up to 108 dB. It looks the business too, with each player being totally unique thanks to the idiosyncrasies in the casing of its rich North American black walnut.
The collector’s choice Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon
The power and the glory Bentley Continental GT Coupe V8 The ultimate gentleman’s sportscar has had a luxurious makeover. Faster then ever, the raising of the power output means this Bentley goes from standstill to 60 mph in 4.4 seconds and can reach a top speed of 198mph. Not that you’d notice from inside – the hand-crafted interior is as quietly opulent as ever.
Vacheron Constantin is the go-to brand for watch aficionados. The awesome craftsmanship that goes into each piece gives lavish and impressive results, and the Patrimony Traditionnelle is testament to that. A pink gold case conceals an incredibly technical interior, with a new mechanical hand-wound tourbillion movement – the Calibre 2260 – equipped with an impressive 14-day power reserve. The experts think so too, as the watch has been approved under the new Hallmark of Geneva criteria. As well as looking great on the wrist, this timepiece will also make a superb collector’s piece.
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motored by Italian passion
MARCH 8_15, 2012 Hall 1.1_Booth D71
QUATTRO VALVOLE 44 CHRONOGRAPH The unique wristwatch inspired by speed and technology. Italian design. Swiss made.
Also available at: Frost of London 108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF - T: 020 3372 0108 firstname.lastname@example.org - www.frostoflondon.co.uk 000_Ad.indd 1
Frost of London, 108 New Bond Street, London
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01/03/2012 17:29 01/03/12 17:18
Illustration - Matthew Brand James Kirkham is the co-founder of Holler, an award-winning digital strategy agency that numbers Dunhill, Absolut Vodka, Red Bull and Revlon among its clients
James Kirkham Where do luxury brands sit in our new social world? Social media is all-pervasive. Poking someone, tweeting what you ate for breakfast or pressing a little blue thumbs-up button has become as common for many of us as checking our emails, but there is growing intrigue about where luxury brands truly fit into this new media landscape. Prior to the social revolution, most people were only content viewing these objects of allure from a distance. The visions of beauty plastered over billboards felt obtainable only by the wealthy few. Of course, for luxury brands their very being is that they are meant to be difficult to reach, and something that one aspires to. But now that social media has been embraced by so many of us, there is an interesting dynamic between what it “is” to be luxury versus the parameters of social media. Social media is about total transparency, complete accessibility and an always-on culture. It’s about conversation and continuous dialogue with a brand, often on a one-to-one basis. Prestige brands looking at social media in a meaningful way, with good presence on Facebook, include Tiffany, D&G, Chanel, Gucci and Dior. And Ferrari’s Facebook site is very good at tapping into the passion points of its fans. But for the real deal, look no further than Burberry’s creative director Christopher Bailey. He’s become a celebrity of the social sphere for providing luxury aficionados with a constant commentary disseminating his world view. The thinking has been sound and the effects have been remarkable, with the brand now counting over 10 million fans on Facebook.
They’ve invested vast sums in content experiences – from tweets straight from the catwalk or live chat with Bailey himself – that bring everyone, regardless of status or social standing, right into the beating heart of the brand. But while many are hailing Burberry’s social media strategy as being key to their current success, others question whether this will dilute the brand in the long term. How soon will it be before everyone “owns” the brand, and there is nothing left to reach for? The solution could lie with niche networks. Facebook is powerful, but its ubiquity means there is less scope for finding like-minded people. Symptoms of “Facebook Fatigue” are already appearing, with people shutting down their accounts, blocking friends, or migrating to other platforms. Millions are now questioning their relationship with it because their news streams are full only of a narcissistic few. This has spawned a rise in miniature social media platforms based around different passion centres – places full of like-minded people – which could prove to be a fertile ground for those in the luxury business. These might be tranquil personal places tailored to their emotions such as Path, Instagram or Pinterest, or simple smaller communities with others of a like minded disposition. This is a place where luxury feels like the right fit. Just as digital social media has provided a bridge between consumers and the luxury brands they admire, so the future of social provides a great opportunity to connect consumer and brand without devaluing the latter. The electronic global village may be spreading, but the social media communities will become ever more tightly knit.
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Alex Doak The new breed of watchmakers The Swiss are generally a modest, understated people. For illustration, look no further than tennis ace Roger Federer who always seemed a little embarrassed by his utter dominance of the tennis court. In recent years, therefore, it almost always comes as a surprise to read the annual report issued by that most austere of organisations, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH). Despite its sober intonation, the facts laid bare seem boastful, so astronomic are global sales. Despite the inevitable dip in 2009, Switzerland’s watchmakers are defying the downturn and breaking their own export records year after year, going from CHF4.3bn in 1986 – its lowest point, when everyone was getting plastic, made-in-Taiwan digital watches free in their cereal packets – to CHF19.3bn in 2011. And last year alone, growth was an incredible 22.1 per cent, with almost 30 million finished Swiss watches sent out into the world, increasingly driven by mechanical movements; technology that has barely changed in 200 years. Safe to say, more and more people are rediscovering the joy of a beautifully crafted timepiece, despite – or, more likely, because of – our clinical, digitised age. This could well be the most dynamic era in watchmaking’s history – in terms of sales of course, but also in terms of how we are challenging the traditional notions of how a “proper” Swiss watch should be done.
This quiet (yet occasionally garish) revolution in watch design and watch construction is down to a resolutely niche breed of watchmaker: the ‘garage brand’. A band of upstarts with a decidedly un-Swiss lack of modesty, but passion and chutzpah in spades – the pioneer arguably being Richard Mille at the turn of the 21st century, who reinvented the mechanical timepiece as a futuristic, technical showcase. These new brands aren’t encumbered by a history and all the commitments that brings. Theirs is a clean slate and fresh outlook, spurred simply by the promise of a hungry market, with a younger and younger sector wanting something different – something innovative and trend-led, invariably to supplement a collection that already includes the statutory Rolex, Omega and Breitling. Drawing as much inspiration from fashion, jewellery, cars and architecture as watchmaking itself, ever-wilder concepts mean toying with case shapes, colours, materials… Even the movement itself, whose intricate mesh of ticking components lends plenty of opportunity for techy and far-out looks, not to mention a hypnotic display of fine engineering. Naturally, modern technology makes all of this possible – carbon fibre was rare in F1 cars until recently, let alone watch dials – and the increasing accessibility of said technology means that new, niche brands are easier than ever to establish.. But despite these enfants terribles shaking up the firmament, it’s actually all part of the Swiss industry’s natural evolution. For more than four centuries, tradition, craftmanship, high technologies and permanent innovation have allowed the Swiss to stay ahead in the world watch market. They’ve always been forced to answer the many technological, economical and structural challenges confronting them – in particular the quartz crisis of the Seventies and Eighties. Its exceptional dynamism and creative power have made it a stateof-the-art industry, which can adapt. From cheap fashion watches to mechanical masterpieces made of gold and decorated with precious stones, it is sheer variety and worldwide vocation that have, together, ensured the survival of the industry over the course of centuries. And the bold, occasionally wacky watches from the likes of BRM, Jacob & Co., Franc Vila, U-Boat, delaCour, Mecchaniche Veloci, Artya, Cyrus, Snyper? They’re all key to this vitality.
Alex Doak is a watch journalist and the editor of Magnificent Man Illustration - Matthew Brand
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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk
212.719.5887 48 East 57th Street New York, NY
Eugene Costello The rise and rise of philanthrocapitalism In 2006 Warren Buffett made an announcement that still reverberates due to its enormity. He would, he said, be giving away 85 per cent of the total wealth of his company Berkshire Hathaway to the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation to support what he saw as its important work. The donation was in the form of 10 million shares, to be given in tranches every year – a pledge that, at the time, was worth $31bn dollars. He told his close friends Bill and Melinda: “Don’t just go for safe projects. Take on the really tough problems.” Clearly taking the view it is better to do one thing well rather than lots of things badly, the Gates defined their mission as “teaming up with partners around the world to take on some tough problems: extreme poverty and poor health in developing countries, the failures of America’s education system,” adding that they see these issues as the biggest barriers preventing people from “making the most of their lives”. And Bill and Mel are not alone. Evidence of philanthrocapitalism abounds among the wealthy. Hedge fund managers – that most secretive and discreet band of wealth creators – always appear at the top of lists of the UK’s most charitable wealth creators. Flamboyant multi-millionaire property developer Peter de Savary is a regular donor, and famously says that when he dies he is leaving his wealth to charitable causes. He adds a proviso: “I don’t mean I am leaving my five children absolutely nothing – I wouldn’t have anybody come to Sunday lunch if I said that. But I do think a modest provision is appropriate.” So just why do the fabulously wealthy – Gates, Buffett, de Savary et al – want to give their wealth away? Like “red lorry, yellow lorry”, it’s hard to say. When folk win millions on the Lottery, there are a few
impressive characters who want to make the world a better place by donating to charity or society. But I mean few as in precious few. Most seem to want to blow it on cars, cruises and Cristal. Many are ill-equipped to handle their new-found, thoroughly underserved, wealth with dignity and aplomb. Is there a class factor at work here? Are those who build up multi-million, even billion, pound business empires by definition more intelligent, more able to see that life is a game of chance and if you are lucky and it pays off, why the hell not share the spoils? Is it that the adrenaline of “winning” in business is sufficient reward in itself – who cares about the spoils? Or is it a simpler matter, the tacit acknowledgement that capitalism, like the Lottery, is a system that rewards the few but requires the many to live in drudgery or worse? Whatever the answer is, Peter de Savary sums it up pithily: “It always surprises me how many mean, selfish people there are in the world who are bloody rich,” he has said. “It’s very irritating.” In Victorian times, philanthropy was a much-respected example of the trickle-down effect that Margaret Thatcher claimed a low-taxation, entrepreneurial system encourages. (I don’t agree with her; altruistic billionaires are more noted for their rarity than their ubiquity.) But this is one area in which I am happy to make a clarion call for a return to Victorian values. (I don’t go along with the prostitution, the workhouses and the repressed sexuality, but I love the tunnels, bridges and piers, and all that palaver.) As Karl Marx said of religion, it is “the heart of a heartless world.” Well put, Karl. I feel much the same way about philanthropy in today’s capitalist system. And you can quote me on that.
Eugene Costello is editor-at-large of Tempus Illustration - Matthew Brand
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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk
Cyrus Star Team Two Cyrus watches, one worn on each wrist, will help form balance points for famous Swiss tightrope walker Freddy Nock as he makes his way, blindfolded on a steel cable, across the width of the Stade Louis II in Monaco on May 22. Nock’s astonishing feat is the highlight of a prestige event that sees two football teams, one composed of Formula 1 drivers and the other of international athletes led by HSH Prince Albert II, go head to head to raise funds for Star Team For Children. Cyrus is sponsoring the event and auctioning off both of Nock’s watches for the charity. The timepieces come from the Cyrus Star Team collection and are available in a limited run of 99 pieces. Even the straps thrill – by incorporating steel cables they give an admiring nod to Freddy Nock’s recordbreaking feat.
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Object of desire frostof london.co.uk
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Basel preview Words - Hannah Silver
The world’s greatest watch and jewellery makers gather at BaselWorld this month for their annual pow-wow. We reveal the trends set to take this global gathering by storm
ince 1917, BaselWorld has been the definitive event in watchmaking and remains the most important gathering for the watch industry. This year, nearly 2,000 exhibitors will show their latest developments in technical skill and craftsmanship to visitors from more than 100 countries, inspiring trends around the world. For eight days from March 8, BaselWorld presents the new collections for the year ahead before they debut globally, with watch insiders predicting fresh innovations that will push timepieces into higher levels of luxury and technical ability. “Limited-edition timepieces will continue to increase in demand but truly bespoke 1:1 timepieces will
flourish with the option to personify just about every aspect, bar the actual mechanism,” predicts Dino D’Auria, co-founder of pioneering jewellery store Frost of London. Other clear trends emerging are timepieces that are returning to their roots or retaining a more classic look, while bright timepieces that pop with colour are still perennially popular. Pierre Koukjian of deLaCour adds: “Our industry will be going for highly complex watches in styling as well in the movement, powered with a strong design. Dull pieces with massive marketing will not do.” The following watches are a snapshot of the best that this agenda-setting show has to offer.
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Bremont’s first global timer watch, the ALT1-WT, is beautifully engineered. The steel used in the case construction offers a scratch resistance of 2000 Vickers; far greater than the 300 Vickers of a usual stainless steel case. A highlyfinished dial and a bezel that uses a series of ball-bearings finish a technically-impressive timepiece.
Watches driven by science Whizz-bang tech is not enough, watches also must have a heart and soul. As Stephen Urquhart, president of Omega, notes: “The purchase of a watch is generally an emotional one.” That said, Omega’s history has been defined by technological innovation…
A true first for Omega, the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT makes it possible to tell the time in two time zones simultaneously and in all light conditions. A GMT complication means that alongside the hour, minute and second hands runs a GMT hand coated with white Super-LumiNova that completes one rotation every 24 hours.
The Hamilton Khaki X-Patrol contains a unique mechanical conversion facility meaning you can choose whether to choose to view metric or imperial units. Housed in highly resistant materials, the chronograph integrates the new H21 caliber which means that excellent accuracy and power reserve is assured.
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In a graceful nod to their heritage, the beautiful dial on the Alexei timepiece is painted in colours traditionally associated with Russian cloisonne enamels. Set on mother-of-pearl and depicting three long-tailed birds perched on the tree of life, this timepiece is also a work of art.
Limited to only ten pieces, the MasterGraff Double Tourbillon GMT is set with over 30 carats. The case, available in white or rose gold, displays the selfwinding double-tourbillion and dual time zone indicator against a brilliant setting of 306 diamonds.
Jacob & Co
The familiar Five Time Zone watch has been given an update with the G5 Series: Global Collection. A pentagonal case, rarely used for a timepiece, means the home dial is now an equal size to the other four timezones. Available in many different materials, this model can also come adorned with a set of diamonds.
Truly beautiful timepieces Incredibly luxurious and visually stunning timepieces are the result of years of careful craftsmanship, marrying physical beauty with high technical ability 30
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Despite only appearing in 2000, the unisex J12 is quickly gaining classic status. The evolution continues with the J12 Matte Black. Highly scratch-resistant, the rotating bezel and strap are both in ceramic and steel and showcase the rhodium-plated numerals and hands.
Return to the source New techology and old techiques make for a compelling mix. as Marc A Hayek, President and CEO of Montres Breguet, comments: “Breguet’s inventions have left an indelible imprint on watchmaking history and the developments currently being achieved make it an undeniable reference in its field.”
Centuries of Swiss watchmaking skill have gone into the Maestro Quantième à Aiguille. A mechanical movement with automatic winding is presented in a stainless steel crown with 33 rubies and traditional black transferred Roman numerals.
For Breguet, the Tradition 7047 tourbillon fusée is a return to its roots. The quintessential design, featuring silicon spring, tourbilllon, fusée and chain transmission is now available in 18 carat rose gold with a new black galvanic-coated gold dial.
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The vivid colours of the Promess Glamour are offset to brilliant effect by jewels including diamonds, baguette-cut rubies, amethysts and iolites. Available in a multitude of colours, each limited to 88 pieces, these timepieces are a luxurious take on this year’s colour trend.
Pops of colour are proving popular Whether vivid tones or subtle shades, colour is king in 2012. Dino D’Auria, co-founder of Frost of London, says of the trend: ‘Noticeable colours coming through will be shades of green; from subtle earthy tones to bright emeralds and everything in between.’ For more lighthearted luxe, this is a look to embrace.
Layers of transparent blue lacquer applied to the dial create the effect of depth on this ultra-slim Calibre 7663Q from the Villeret collection, finished with matching strap with alzavel lining. Composed of 244 parts and 34 jewels,the self-winding movement and under-lug corrector ensure accuracy.
Taking its inspiration from racing and aeronautics, the Only One Collection Quattro Valvole 44 Chronograph incorporates parts of racing cars into its dial. A single ETA 7750 mechanical automatic chronograph set in titanium gives it a sleek and sporty feel.
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Substance / Cufflinks
01 Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross cufflinks in 18ct yellow gold
02 William & Son Tourbillion cufflinks coated in black PVD.
If the apparel oft proclaims the man, it is his cufflinks that can really set him apart from the herd. Paired with a handmade shirt by Zilli, nothing breathes effortless sophistication like cuff love
Substance / Cufflinks
Nicolai Cufflinks set in 18ct rose gold with round diamonds
04 Jacob & Co
Hourglass cufflinks with 0.94ct pave diamonds and 0.50ct floating diamonds
05 Tomasz Donocik Topaz horsehead chain cufflinks
108 New Bond Street | London | W1S 1EF T: 020 3372 0108 | E: email@example.com www.frostoflondon.co.uk 000_Ad.indd 1
Food & Drink
Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens
Brilliant bartender Salvatore Calabrese, Playboy Club, London Salvatore Calabrese – one of the world’s leading bartenders – has more than 30 years of experience in the business and can now be seen in action at his own bar Salvatore’s at Playboy Club London on Old Park Lane, Mayfair. Famously known as ‘The Maestro’, Salvatore’s passion for mixing cocktails developed at an early age, “There is no such thing as ‘under age’ in my native Maiori on the Amalfi Coast, I started working as a commis bartender when I was 11,” he says. It was in his twenties, in 1982, that Salvatore came to the UK and got his first job in London at Dukes Hotel in St James’s. With just a small bar at his disposal, Salvatore still managed to attract a big crowd. “I came up with the idea of selling ‘liquid history’,” he says. “I sourced a bottle of Hine cognac from 1914, and sold it for £25 a shot. I started a search for really old spirits. People began to
talk and our takings went from around £400 per day to £10,000 per table on one occasion.” Moving to the grand Lanesborough Hotel in Knightsbridge, where he worked as head bartender for ten years, Salvatore established himself as, quite simply, one of the world’s greatest barmen. Off the back of these successes, Salvatore opened his first solo venture in 2004 with Salvatore at FIFTY in London’s St James’s. During his time here ‘The Maestro’ served a host of celebrities from around the world, who flocked to enjoy his incredible cocktails, creating a buzz across London. Salvatore’s ability to mix a one-ofa-kind cocktail is matched only by the distinguished list of awards he has gained. His most recent win was an Outstanding Service to the Industry Award in January this year. Want to try some of Salvatore’s groundbreaking cocktails? For membership enquiries, visit
A rose by any other name
Those clever boys Nick House and Piers Adam (Mahiki, Whisky Mist, et al) look set to redefine the London club scene once again. Rose is a new concept that incorporates a high-end flower shop on the ground floor, a 300-capacity nightclub in the basement and – from the summer – an “industrial luxe” restaurant on the first floor. Think Tribeca/Meatpacking District, we are told. As if that were not enough, there is to be a 2,000 sq ft roof terrace above that. As if that were not enough, trained choreographed ballerinas warm up on the bar and perform to live opera singers and string quartets. theroseclub.com
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Food & Drink
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester
Got a taste for hard liquor and a spare $8m? Have we got a deal for you! The world’s largest collection of old liquors is going under the hammer. (Not literally. That would be a smashing waste.) Dutch collector Bay van der Bunt has a collection that is the envy of… well, just about anyone who likes a tipple. He has cognacs that date back to 1789, when the French aristocracy was running around like headless chickens and the US presidential seat was filled, by George. As in Washington… Says van der Bunt (who is, surprisingly, teetotal): “Over the last 35 years, I frequented worldwide auctions like Christie’s and Sotheby’s. I bought from famous restaurants like Maxim’s and La Tour d’Argent in Paris and Le Cirque in New York when they thinned-out their cellars. Some cognacs even belonged to the estate of the Duke of Windsor.” If the winning bidder wants someone to help with sampling, our door is always open… 0ldliquors.com
Back in the darkest days of December the Tempus team had lunch at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. We went in full of cold and low spirit; we emerged smiling and with a spring in our step. The first thing to point out is that, while, yes, it is a three-Michelin-starred fine-dining joint, it is not remotely stuffy and starchy as such establishments can be. No ram-rod straight waiters standing two feet to your side, as impassive as the guards at Buckingham Palace, waiting to throw themselves to the floor like Kevin Costner in The Bodyguard should – heaven forfend – you drop a napkin or a fork. These waiters are – whisper it – actually human. They smile. They laugh. They chat. So that is a huge plus point. French. But relaxed. Like – oh, say – Juliette Binoche at a party. The second thing is the sheer beauty of the room. To use an overworked cliché – simply because it is so apt – it is like the first-class dining room on a 1930s liner. This place is a temple to artdeco and at its centre, the private dining room is clad with a glittering, sparkling cascade of Swarovski crystals that girds it in the shape of a Doric column. But the third – and main – story here is that, for all the hype and attention that the name Ducasse conjures up, the food really is spectacular. It is a lamentable fashion among critics to say “Three stars? I wouldn’t feed that
to my goldfish,” or whatever; the more controversial, the more they feel they are displaying their macho neutrality. The inspectors have got it spot on. Under head chef Jocelyn Herland, the kitchen is turning out dishes of elegance and beauty. Stand-out dishes here are the soft-boiled egg with royale of artichoke – comfort food re-imagined, if you will, by Philippe Starck – and rump of black Angus beef with al dente carrots and baby spinach, delivered from parkland to Park Lane with flawless grace and execution. The gloopy cloying delight that is vacherin is cleansed by a chocolate and lime sorbet that thrills with its sharp and sweet elements. Dining with the stars – bravo, messieurs les inspecteurs… formidable. thedorchester.com/alain-ducasse
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Fashion & Accessories frostof london.co.uk
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Good times Words - Eugene Costello
Britainâ€™s most successful Olympic sailor Ben Ainslie shares something else with Dame Ellen MacArthur - other than great success at sailing, that is. They both spent their childhoods in landlocked areas of the north - her, near Matlock in Derbyshire and Ben in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Then he moved to Cornwall and started a lifetime love affair with the sea that would see him garner three Olympic gold medals - not mention an OBE, an MBE and a CBE...
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Ben Ainslie is brand ambassador for Corum Timepieces
â€œFunnily enough, the f irst watch I owned when I was about 13 was also a Corum. They did a really good sailing watch so I wrote to a dealer in London asking if I could borrow one.â€?
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Good times frostof london.co.uk
Q Your father was Roddie Ainslie, who captained a boat in the first Whitbread Round The Wold Cup, in 1973. Would you say a love of sailing was in your blood?
Yes, I’d say so. I was lucky enough to grow up in Falmouth in Cornwall, and my parents were very keen sailors. And with the huge sailing heritage in that part of the world, it came naturally, I suppose. I was born in Macclesfield and we moved to Falmouth when I was eight. The only sailing up till then was messing about with my parents on a small training boat on holidays in north Wales. But in Cornwall I started going out in dinghies on my own and that’s when I really started learning the sport.
When did you start sailing competitively?
I started racing when I was 11, and started to do OK at the national level, qualifying for international events, so it took off from there. At 15, I competed in a senior class, racing in a Laser Radial at a world championship in New Zealand. I won, which really kick-started my career and gave me the confidence to get out there and give it my all.
What’s your proudest memory?
The Sydney Olympics in 2000, because of the intense rivalry I had with [Brazilian sailor] Robert Scheidt. It was the first gold medal I’d won, Sydney is a fantastic place and beating Robert was sweet. Our rivalry started in ’96 when Robert took gold and I took silver. He was 23 then and I was 19, so to have all that come together at Sydney was amazing.
Q Does your rivalry with Robert Scheidt have shades of Prost and Senna?
Well, there wasn’t much friendliness. We’re both fiercely competitive and focused, and it all came down to the final race where there was one of those Prost/Senna moments. No rules were broken, but we were both very aggressive and I was trying to hold Robert back so it was intense.
Will you compete in Rio in 2016?
Let’s see. I’ll wait to find out what classes they select and take a view then. It will be a fabulous event – can you imagine? Rio? Amazing…
Q What about this year? How is your fitness following recent back surgery? Well, it’s been a difficult period. Any professional sportsperson who has time out for injury will know it’s incredibly frustrating. But the aim is to get back up to peak fitness, and that has been my focus for the past three or four weeks. Every day counts, and the rehab is going well so I am feeling positive about it.
the rowing and the athletics, they’re my main interests – although I have made friends across a range of sports so will be watching out for them. Cycling will be great for us – this year we have great individuals and teams so I’m really expecting us to do well.
Q You got an MBE. Then you got an OBE. Then you got a CBE. When are you going to run for office?
Ha! One step at a time. I need to focus on one thing at a time to do the best I can at that – and that focus is the Olympics. Joking aside, if I were in power, I would sort out the coalition, as I think it is ineffective as a tool of government. When there was talk of George Osborne bringing in tax cuts for the wealthy in the next budget, I was worried. I’m not sure that’s what the country needs right now. What the country needs is stimulation for the economy and to protect the NHS.
Q If you were put in charge of the International Sailing Federation what would you change?
I’d look at the Olympic classes to see if tweaking them might ensure we are attracting the right type of people and the right type of courses. And I’d increase the professionalism of race management, to ensure that we are giving the greatest support possible to race juries and race management. At the moment, these guys are under a huge amount of pressure to get the job done but they are not being given proper support – we need to professionalise the system far more. They need to be given resources in order to be able to do the job full-time. It happened with rugby, and I see no reason why it shouldn’t happen with sailing.
What has been your greatest extravagance?
If you won the Lottery tomorrow what would you do?
What watch do you wear?
Air flights and nice hotels, obviously. But otherwise my house in Lymington and cars – although I am lucky enough to be sponsored by Volvo, who have been very good to me over the years. My favourite car would be an Aston Martin – but sadly I don’t have one. I would buy my parents a really cool yacht so that they could achieve the dream of their lifetime – to go off sailing into the sunset together. A Corum Admiral’s Cup Tides. Funnily enough, the first watch I got to wear, when I was 13, was also a Corum. They did a great sailing watch so I wrote to a dealer in London asking if I could borrow one. And he was very nice and wrote back to me, invited me up to London for the day and lent me this fantastic watch.
Q What other events will you be watching out for during the Olympics?
What is the coolest watch of all time?
Tough call. I’d have to go for a Corum Tourbillon Panoramique.
I typically watch everything. As soon as your event is finished you get back to the athlete’s village and stick the TV on. It’s fantastic to watch other British athletes competing, there is terrific camaraderie and you want to watch your countrymen and women shine as individuals in the Olympic arena. It’s very inspirational. That said, I’ll be sure to watch
What is your personal motto?
Never give up.
And what would be your epitaph?
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Wish we were there A villa in Ibiza? Old hat. But a private island that is only reached by boat off the coast of Ibiza? Now we’re cooking on gas. Holidays are as much about experience as relaxation. Use this taster for inspiration. Go on – take a walk on the wild side…
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Travel trends Words – Lizzie Rivera
dventure and discovery are this year’s biggest travel trends, and we don’t mean African safaris, six-star luxury in Dubai, and Caribbean cruises which, wonderful as they are, offer little new to the intrepid traveller. Instead, why not explore expanses of Arctic ice or become acquainted with the colourful landscape of Burma – south-east Asia’s second largest country? On the piste, it’s not just about skiing or, even heli-skiing; it’s about having a villa with its own private nightclub or casino to fulfill your every après-ski desire. It’s about tapping into expertise, stopping for a few days to really get to know a place rather than jetting from one country to the next, and then sailing into the sunset, or to a private island, on the latest superyacht…
Whether cage-free diving with sharks, or snorkelling in a lake inhabited by eight million jellyfish (albeit with a reduced sting after years of isolation from predators) in Palau, holidaymakers are constantly looking for their next thrill. This includes a willingness to go off the beaten track and brace Arctic temperatures. “TV shows like Frozen Planet really raise awareness of what a wonderful destination it is, but there’s nothing like experiencing the real thing. Plus you don’t have to stay in the cramped cabins of the old Russian iceboats, and can now travel there in style,” says Justin Wateridge, managing director of Abercrombie & Kent UK. “People want experience and expertise. They are prepared to go out of their comfort zones – it’s not all about gold taps anymore.” An expedition cruise aboard MV ‘Le Boreal’ to Greenland’s Bronze Age and Eskimo settlements and fishing enclaves costs from £7,840 pp; travel 6 – 21 July 2013; abercrombiekent.co.uk; +44 (0)845 618 2213 A package inc. flights, transfers and 13 nights’ half-board accommodation at Palau Pacific Resort costs from £3600 pp; ultimatediving.co.uk; +44 (0)203 582 1116
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“Private islands represent a step up from a villa holiday option because as well as a stunning villa to stay in, where you get excellent service and lots of toys (think boats as well as PlayStations), you also get acres of space all to yourself,” says Diana Cherry, Head of OS Private Travel. Tagomago Island (above), for example, allows you to enjoy all the buzz and hedonism of Ibiza’s mainland, ten minutes away by boat, then retreat back to your own private space. Sarah Jensen, Marketing Manager for Desroches Island in the Seychelles agrees: “A stay on a private
island has become infinitely more luxurious than staying in a resort on the main islands, and it never fails to exceed expectations.” When one villa, Madame Zabre, comes complete with its own spa treatment room, personal therapist, butler and chef you can begin to understand why... Tagomago Island and full concierge service from £85,000 per week; osprivatetravel.com; +44 (0)1993 899 430 Madame Zabre from £70,000 per week; desroches-island.com; +248 422 9003
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Holidaying with Gurus
Top health and fitness experts now work at some of the leading resorts around the world. Treatments based on indigenous customs allow you to you to dip your toes in another country’s culture. “More and more people want to receive dedicated support and guidance from the best in the industry. A gentler approach with time for relaxation is just as beneficial as the tough love of a bootcamp,” says Paul Joseph, director of Health and Fitness Travel. “The dawning realisation that healing spa therapies and detox are not a feminine concept is increasing demand for such retreats for both genders.” Wellness retreats around the world are introducing sleep programmes, providing gourmet-dining experiences, and fun activities such as horse riding, scenic walks and even paintballing for the young and young at heart. A seven-night stay at The Chateau Spa & Organic Wellness Resort in Malaysia with a tailored wellness programme, return flights and transfers from £3,490 pp; healthandfitnesstravel.com; +44 (0)845 544 1936
Raising the bar
The travel industry is constantly evolving to produce the biggest, best, and latest offering. This has led to the opportunity to dance in an underwater nightclub at Niyama in the Maldives, paraglide from the airport into the Six Senses Hideaway in Oman or eat among hundreds of butterflies at Alva Park in Spain. “Twenty years ago people were requesting for their chalets to have a hot tub. Now hot tubs, pool, gamesand cinema-rooms are the norm,” says Rupert Longsdon, founder of The Oxford Ski Company. Chalet owners have to push the boundaries to offer something extra. Which is why Chalet Serena in Chamonix has a resident beauty therapist and indoor slide, and L Raphael in Verbier has a sushi-bar and nightclub. Chalet Himalaya in Val d’Isère has a dancefloor that rolls back to reveal an indoor and outdoor swimming pool. “We have witnessed massive growth in the luxury chalet market, expectations have grown hugely,” says Longsdon, who believes that helipads will be the next big thing.
“Yacht holidays offer you exceptional privacy and security as well as an unparalleled standard of service, akin to a six-star hotel,” says OS Private Travel’s Diana Cherry. You can build a truly tailor-made itinerary, taking in several destinations and change your mind as the whim takes you. Says Cherry: “You can get to places on a yacht that you could never get to by car such as Porquerolles Island just off St Tropez, or be part of the whale migration in the South Pacific during late summer.” The obvious river choice this year would be to get away from the crowds and stay on the Thames in London during the Olympics, but if that’s not far enough away for you, then sailing to the Šibenik waterfalls in northern Croatia is also a recommended trip. A seven night fully-catered trip on the SY Swallows and Amazons starts from £2,750 pp, includes full crew, and a planned (but flexible) cruising itinerary; osprivatetravel.com; +44 (0)1993 899 430
A fully catered week at Chalet Serena (sleeps 15) from £14,500 and four nights at L Raphael (sleeps 18) from £57,000; oxfordski.com; +44 (0)1993 899 420 A fully catered week at Chalet Himalaya (sleeps eight) from £18,500; akski.com; 0845 618 2215
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Off the beaten track
“Europeans have recently been falling foul of the American tendency to ‘do’ a country in its entirety,” says director of cazenove+loyd Christopher Wilmot-Sitwell. “Time spent in a special place and watching the world go by gives far greater insight and understanding than a programme of rushed dashes to airports and being a slave to a timetable. Spending four or five days on a fazenda (farm) in the Brazilian Pantanal is a great way to see incredible landscape and wildlife, and get to know part of a country and its people. Likewise, on a trip to Rajasthan, most people return far more taken by a few days in a luxury tented camp in the Thar Desert, or converted hunting lodge in the Aravelis than from their ‘circuit’ of Palace Hotels in Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur.” Burma’s Buddhist culture is seeing unprecedented levels of popularity, thanks to the release of Aung San Suu
Kyi and a government that appears to be relaxing its attitude to visitors. “Go while ancient temples, golden pagodas, remote villages and charming people are still relatively untouched by mass tourism,” advises Yaow Butwisate-Lok, Far East product manager at Cox & Kings. Brazil: Two weeks including fivestar Rio, the Pantanal and the Iguazu Falls with private guides and vehicles from £5000 pp; cazloyd.com; +44 (0) 20 7384 2332 Rajasthan: Two weeks in Rajasthan including luxury palace hotels, the Araveli Hills and a tented camp in the Thar Desert with private guides and vehicles from £4000 pp; cazloyd.com; +44 (0) 20 7384 2332 Burma: 13-day escorted tour: £2,395 pp including flights, transfers, excursions and accommodation with meals; coxandkings.co.uk; +44 (0)207 873 5000
Main picture: Twilight over Swedagon Paya in Yangon Myanmar (Burma); above, the Iguazu Falls, Brazil
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I N N O V A T I V E
P L E A S U R E
To say the Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahia Real 5* GL was a feast for the senses would be an understatement. This magical Place is a treasure trove of luxury where time stands still and the mind indulges, set in the perfect location facing the sea and next to the spectacular sand dunes of Corralejo, Fuerteventura. No wonder it is its regulars best kept secret.
TEL: + 34 928 537 153 / re s e r v a t i o n s . b a h i a re a l @ a t l a n t i s h o t e l s . c o m / w w w. a t l a n t i s b a h i a r e a l . c o m
Formula One Words - Adam Hay-Nicholls
wenty-twelve has already gone down in history, and the season hasn’t even started yet. The most VIP driver line-up, never before has there been as many as six World Champions on the starting grid. Kimi Raikkonen, the monosyllabic bon vivant, has returned after a sabbatical spent rally-driving. When he won the F1 title in 2007 there was just one other champ on the grid; the conquistadorial Fernando Alonso. But now we have baby-faced wünderkind Sebastian Vettel, who is eying a hat-trick; mercurial A-lister Lewis Hamilton; Mr Smooth, Jenson Button; and, like Rocky Balboa weighing in against much younger fighters, 43-year-old Michael Schumacher. Just don’t call it a comeback. Between them they share 14 world titles, and the chances are the 2012 trophy too will find its way into the Swiss chalet or Monaco apartment of one of these famous gents. In recent years, McLaren has started the season slowly and then caught up. Red Bull Racing, which has dominated for the last two years, is considered the favourite to win again. Ferrari, the most successful and long-running team, has struggled in pre-season tests and might feel the heat from Mercedes GP and Lotus F1 in the first half of the season. Twenty races, starting with Melbourne on March 18 and ending in Sao Paulo on November 25; this is also the longest and biggest season yet. So, which are unmissable? How about this for a six-of-the-best itinerary…
Go go go The world’s sexiest sport; a game of chess played at 200mph. Some might describe Formula One as boring, but they’ve just not had the right tickets. Adam Hay-Nicholls tells you who to look out for this year, where to stand, and how to get yourself invited to the hottest parties on the racing calendar…
Australian Grand Prix Melbourne | 16-18 March Round 1
The first race of the year is liable to be the most unpredictable. What’s more, Albert Park’s Tarmac only feels race rubber once a year, so the surface will be greener than month-old ciabatta and as slippery as Rockefeller Plaza come Christmas. That, combined with the narrow walls that line the circuit, means there’s always some carbon-crunching drama. For a jaw-dropping, ear-splitting lookout, take the grandstand between Turns 11 and 12, a ferociously fast left-right switchback where Jenson Button and Felipe Massa brushed wheels last year. Most drivers stay at the Crown Towers, Melbourne’s biggest luxury hotel and home to a lavish 24-hour casino. On the Thursday before the race it plays host to the black tie Grand Prix Ball, attended by all F1 and local glitterati.
Monaco Grand Prix Monte Carlo | 24-27 May Round 6
Eighty-three years old, the Monaco GP remains F1’s blue riband event. Sunbathers watch from balconies and yachts as cars race around the harbour; the deafening echo of the engines bouncing off the walls of high-rise apartment blocks. For the best views, either stand down at the Swimming Pool section, a tight chicane through which the cars defy physics; make your home Casino Square; or get a room at the Fairmont Hotel, overlooking the most famous hairpin in motor racing. At around €5,000 a night, my fivestar recommendation is the Monte Carlo Bay. It has the best pool in the Principality and wouldn’t be out of place in Las Vegas. Alternatively there’s the Winston Churchill suite at the Hotel de Paris which, at €20,000, is probably the most in-demand digs in town. Graham Hill was known as Mr Monaco, but Vijay Mallya is catching up fast. The Indian billionaire’s annual yacht party has become a highlight of
the weekend. Located on the T-quay, the 95m Indian Empress hosts the most glam party of the weekend, always on the Thursday night. Here’s a tip for getting aboard yacht parties uninvited: always wear smart socks. To safeguard the teak decking, the captain will always ask you to remove your shoes, and a smart pair of stripy Paul Smith feet warmers will gain you instant entry. Post-race, after he’s handed over the goods, Prince Albert heads to Monaco’s most notorious nightclub: Jimmy’z. Paris Hilton got engaged here, at least once. Inside, it’s pure Eurotrash so best bring a sense of irony as well as your black AmEx.
Italian Grand Prix Monza | 7-9 September Round 13
A cathedral to speed, and home to redblooded racing appassionata – Ferrari’s Tifosi – Monza has hosted grands prix since 1922. It’s the fastest circuit in Formula One, and can be taken at an average speed of over 155mph.
Watch from the pit straight to get the full effect. Here cars are able to slipstream and there’s passing aplenty. Post-race, the drivers head to the Just Cavalli Café – Roberto’s loudest accessory – for the F1 Rocks party. And once that’s wound down, it’s on to Hollywood. Eddie Irvine once bought an apartment around the corner so he could pick up girls, take them back to see his trophies, and get back to the club before closing.
Singapore Grand Prix Marina Bay | 21-23 September Round 14
Formula One’s first night race opened up a new world of possibilities when it debuted in 2008. The appeal is that you can go clubbing till sunrise and still get a full night’s sleep before you have to be up for the race. It’s the only time you’ll find drivers out on the town the night before a showdown. Several of them will head to Zouk. This is where serious clubbers go for their hard house, trance and strobe-lit exhaustion. The bar staff are
Abu Dhabi Grand Prix Yas Island | 2-4 November Round 18
With its modern circuit architecture, colourful run-off areas, floodlights, and the huge Ferrari World theme park, the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix looks like a race set in the distant future. Never mind that the track has yet to provide a truly thrilling race, this event is like fly paper to high rollers. On race day, there’s more royalty here than anywhere else on earth. And because there is a twinkling marina that is located next to the track, they have somewhere to moor their Lürssens and Benettis. The best views are yours when you check into the Yas Viceroy Hotel, which actually straddles the circuit. It’s cloaked with colour-changing LEDs which looks stunning at night; the visual centre-piece of Yas Island’s $40bn development. Located in the Yas Yacht Club is Cipriani, the popular supper-club outpost, where the bellinis get spilt long into the night. The most exclusive spot to “sheik it, sheik it, baby”, though, is the fabulously opulent Emirates Palace, the seven-star golden wonder of the world. Its Embassy club has a Michelin-starred chef on hand, and the best (and most expensive) cocktails in the Emirate.
United States Grand Prix Austin | 16-18 November Round 19
New to the calendar this year, Austin needs to deliver where Indianapolis failed; to give F1 a permanent US green card. The Texan capital is a demographic melting pot. They like sport. They love live music even more. Sixth St is a country, blues and rock mecca and attracts many of the best artists. The Circuit Of The Americas has been designed as a Greatest Hits track, copying many of the best turns from European circuits. With an elevation change of 41 metres, it should look like Belgium’s legendary SpaFrancorchamps circuit, but without the trees. Opt for a seat between Turns 6 and 9, which are modelled on Silverstone’s adrenalin-pumping Maggots-Becketts-Chapel complex. When it comes to White House gourmet recommendations, I say follow Bill Clinton’s lead. Guero’s is one of the best Tex-Mex joints in town, and that’s no mean feat. The 42nd Prez loved the enchiladas so much they named them after him. The taco bar also landed itself a scene in Quentin Tarantino’s Death Proof. “Keep Austin Weird”. That’s the most popular bumper sticker slogan here. The chances are they’ll find F1 weird too, for auto-racing in the USA is traditionally a blue-collar affair.
How to do it Grandstand tickets and travel can be purchased from F1.com Passes for the Paddock Club, F1’s premier hospitality at all races, can be purchased from
F1 Rocks host concerts and parties over F1 weekends. Lenny Kravitz will headline Melbourne, and the after party at Eve Bar will host international DJ Mr Hudson. Tickets to the after party are $480, with tables available from $5,120. Visit F1rocks.com for more info. Amber Lounge is a travelling club that will make appearances at the Monaco, Singapore, India and Abu Dhabi weekends this year. It’s where many of the drivers and celebs head. Passes start at €650, while tables start at €5,200. Visit Amber-lounge.com for more info. If you can’t get the hotel or paddock passes you want, try Lynden Swainston. She’s been sorting travel arrangements for teams, sponsors and discerning race goers for over 30 years, so if you want to find a berth for Monaco, a table at Joël Robuchon, or Viagra in Singapore she’ll know exactly who to call. Visit Travelf1.com for more info.
Photography – Paul Gilham/Getty Images
generous with the drinks, and if you call ahead and say “don’t you know who I am?” they’ll probably put you on the list for the very cool second-level Member’s Bar. And that way you can skip the big line outside. Singapore creates a tremendous spectacle with a fantastic backdrop. The best city-slash-circuit view can be found from the Bay Grandstand, while it can get pretty exciting down by the Anderson Bridge as the cars bottom-out, sparks shooting from the rear. You can also see the race from track-facing rooms at the Mandarin Oriental, Marina Mandarin and Pan Pacific hotels. Head to MBS for drinks. The shipin-the-sky roof terrace is the place to be seen on GP weekend.
Jacob & Co Words – Alex Doak
Jacob & Co frostof london.co.uk
His fine jewellery and iced-out Swiss watches may be famous for adding hefty glint to the hip-hop glitterati, but for all his ups and downs, ‘Bling King’ Jacob Arabo has always treated his business with a very personal passion. In an exclusive interview for Tempus, the founder of Jacob & Co explains why his brand has never been so relevant
ew York City, the late Eighties – it’s a fast, thrilling, dangerous place to be. Focus of the world’s booming economy, Wall St is churning out freshfaced millionaires who pack neon-lit clubs by night, while the sidewalks and subways are riddled with crime and homelessness. As downtown dancefloors and Hollywood soundtracks thrum to the sounds of electro-synth, the influence of early East Coast B-Boy dons such as DJ Kool Herc, Grandmaster Flash and the Sugarhill Gang are fast inspiring a new generation of chart-savvy hip-hop stars such as Run-DMC, De La Soul and A Tribe Called Quest. Set to sampled funk beats, their rhymes reveal to the world the ‘strife life’ out on the street – the Big Apple “across 110th St”, as the famous Bobby Womack song has Harlem and beyond. It may be a land of opposites, but it’s also a land of opportunity for anyone with a healthy dose of ambition, a good idea and just enough chutzpah. The American Dream is still alive and it’s there for the taking. Our gaze settles on one young man who never doubted it for a second: a handsome, quietly composed Uzbekistani immigrant named Yakov Arabov, standing proudly at his new jewellery stall in the dazzlingly lit but nondescript Kaplan Diamond Exchange. By the precocious age of 18 he’s already employing ten factory workers and now, at just 21, he has earned enough to invest in a store. He’s off the streets, and people are coming to him. That was 1986. Fast forward to 2004 and Jacob Arabo – or simply ‘Jacob the Jeweller’ to his devoted clients – is cutting the ribbon on a $12.2m flagship boutique on East 57th Street; a spectacularly appointed retail environment whose interior is inspired by the diamond mines of Angola, Russia and Brazil where Jacob sources his stones. Get past the stern security guards bursting out of their suits and there’s Jacob himself, impeccably tailored, lush black hair slicked back like a matinee idol, a warm smile at the ready, the champagne already on ice. A man clearly relishing his global reputation as official supplier of icedout jewellery and wristwatches to the hip-hop firmament, spanning the East and West Coasts and beyond. Two years later and Jacob & Co grosses $20m. Not bad for a man barely into his forties.
Jacob & Co frostof london.co.uk
Rewind to 1979, and things could have been a lot different. Seeking a better life in the west, Jacob, his parents and two of his four sisters immigrated to Brooklyn from Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Though his father had been in the vodka and wine business, he found it hard to find work and ended up working in a bakery. “It was very difficult financially,” Jacob remembers. “I said to myself, ‘I’ve got to go and make money and get this family back on its feet.’” Defying his father’s wishes to continue in the family trade, he dropped out of Forest Hills High School at 16 and enrolled on a six-month jewellery-making course sponsored by Hassidic Jews. “When I enrolled on that course as a teenager, I already knew I was good with my hands,” he continues. “I’d done well in the more practical classes at school. I knew I had it in me. I could imagine these beautiful pieces of jewellery and I could picture how to make them.” Jacob graduated four months later and, fibbing about his age, started a $125-per-week craftsman’s job in the Diamond District, welding gold bracelets together. And all the while, using left-over gold, he crafted his own unique designs on the side, selling them in his home district of Queens. A mere nine months in, aged 17, he quit and opened his own factory. A remarkable tale of fortune as it stands, but Jacob’s most fateful turning point arguably came around 1994. A certain
“My jewellery has been embraced by musicians, fashion designers, actors and actresses, royalty because they appreciate unique styling”
Faith Evans walked into the Kaplan Diamond Exchange and asked an unaware Jacob if she could leave a five-dollar deposit on a ring she liked, promising that her boyfriend would come in the following day. The next day, Biggie ‘Notorious BIG’ Smalls came in and paid for the ring, as well as a few other pieces. His friends LL Cool J and Sean ‘P Diddy’ Combs soon followed, as well as Nas and Jay-Z. The Bling King was well on his way. In fairness, though, it goes far deeper than bling-bling. After all, Jacob was hardly the only jeweller with half an eye on the hip-hop world – 47th and 6th, the epicentre of the Diamond District, must have been chock full of icedout crosses. No, what has always set Jacob & Co apart is its signature design – ornate, but rooted in a surprisingly classical style – as well as keen attention to detail and flawless execution. He was, arguably, the first to educate his rags-to-riches clientele in properly cut, certified diamonds. “My jewellery has been embraced by a number of different communities including musicians, fashion designers, actors and actresses, royalty and many more, because,” he says, “they appreciate unique styling, rare diamonds and gemstones, exceptional quality and a passion for beautiful items. “When I design,” he explains, “I always look at the piece very carefully – I look at how I can make a difference. How will I make the wearer look even more beautiful?” Despite the many hats Jacob must now wear, from marketing to management, he’s insistent that everything is still run by him. “Everything must have my approval first –
On-trend poster boy David Beckham with Jacob Arabo
Jacob & Co frostof london.co.uk
it must have a twist, a certain ‘look’ that I expect in every Jacob piece. Quality and finish are both so important too. I make myself a key part of the quality-control process.” That control and guarantee of quality is down to the fact that all of Jacob’s jewellery is still made entirely in New York, at a proprietary workshop on 39th Street and 7th Avenue, where more than 40 people work: “Designers, goldsmiths, gemsetters, polishers… Everything is done here in New York.” Except the ‘Swiss-Made’ watches of course. It is Jacob & Co’s huge, multi-dial, multi-coloured (and yes, multi-jewelled) watches upon which most people’s perception of this brand is based, which makes it all the more surprising to learn that they have only been making them since 2002. The pentagonal Five Timezones, driven by five separate movements, was an instant icon, provoking countless imitators and this year’s joyously steampunk ‘Grand’ collection, which takes the pentagon concept into whole new realms. “It was only when we launched the watches that I realised Jacob & Co was really going somewhere. From 2003 onwards, I suddenly had every country calling me, wanting to stock my watches. We had become truly international. It was phenomenal. “Watches had always been a hobby of mine and I’ve always loved complications, the technical side. Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Patek Philippe… all brands I admire. But the only watch collection I have now is Jacob & Co!” And you could do a lot worse than a Jacob watch collection. Right from the get-go, operating out of a dedicated atelier near Geneva, the quartz-powered Five Timezones (from £5,200) have been supplemented by intricately crafted tourbillons priced in five-, even six-digit territory. The tourbillon is the true watchmaker’s badge of honour – a hypnotic merry-go-round of micro-mechanics, usually on display through a dial window, whose assembly is utterly painstaking. It is by no means a casual undertaking and Jacob has chosen his Swiss watchmaking partners wisely, from specialist think-tank Bunter SA, based in a tiny farmhouse on the shores of Lake Geneva,
Jacob’s greatest hits
JC-1: Making history, the Five Time Zone Collection was the first venture into the world of mechanical watchmaking. The dial with primary colour time zones is now a legendary part of the brand’s history…
Quenttin: the Quenttin
reached new levels of technical accomplishment by incorporating a 31-day power reserve, seven mainspring barrels and side-mounted tourbillion. Its masculine design went on to inspire the next generation of watches from the brand…
GR1-24: The Grand
Collection is one of the newest offerings from the brand and already has the watch industry talking. A dial encompassing five different chronometers and five different designs make for a supremely slick and streamlined timepiece…
“When we launched the watches I realised we were really going somewhere. I had every country calling me. It was phenomenal…”
Jacob & Co frostof london.co.uk
to high-end movement developer, Concepto, based in Switzerland’s horological mecca, La Chaux-de-Fonds, deep in the Jura mountains. Just like the jewellery, Jacob makes sure he is deeply involved with the design and development process of his watches, flying to Switzlerland at least every other month for a week at a time. “Watches involve a much longer process than jewellery,” he says. “They are very different animals – but I enjoy them equally. Jewellery is all about design, finish and quality. Watches are far more technical; the movements have to work perfectly and precisely, and it’s way more complicated. It can take up to two years to develop a single piece.” The watch that finally made the purists sit up and pay attention was the Quenttin. A technical tour de force, it turned the tourbillon on to its edge, revealing it through a porthole in the side of the case, with seven winding barrels (mechanical watches usually have just one). This meant it ran autonomously for a whole month. Of course, it also meant it took ages to wind up, which is why the presentation case did it for you instead, robotically. “No one had ever done a 31-day power-reserve watch before. A ten-day watch is still considered an achievement in even the highest echelons of watchmaking,” Jacob says proudly. “It was a deliberate challenge to myself – I don’t like things to be easy. But it was well worth it. “At Baselworld, all these new clients and journalists came to the Jacob & Co stand because they’d heard about the Quenttin. Even some of Patek Philippe’s people visited. I was like, ‘Wow! This has really opened people’s eyes.’” The bold, rectangular style, with all its mechanics on display beneath a sweeping expanse of sapphire crystal set a mood that year, and inspired Jacob’s more accessible square range, ‘Epic I’ and its circular ‘Epic II’. And no one has ever doubted the horological integrity of Jacob & Co ever since. The reputation of the man himself took a blow in 2006, with allegations of money-laundering flared up, in league with drugtraffficking syndicate the Black Mafia Family. Pleading guilty
“No one had ever done a 31-day power-reserve watch before. A ten-day watch is still considered a huge achievement…”
Jacob fiddles with the earrings of one of his celebrity clients, the A-list Hollywood star Milla Jovovich
to falsifying records, the laundering charges were dropped and his sentence was reduced from 30 to 23 months. Viewed by many as the inevitable sting-in-the-tail that comes from dealing with the shadier side of the hip-hop fraternity, Jacob nonetheless emerged from jail with nothing but business and his brand on his mind. His wife Angela and his family had run a tight ship in his absence, weathering 2009’s sharp downfall with aplomb – interestingly, what Jacob cites as the lowest point for his brand, rather than the controversy. But now, with the luxury market in its healthiest-ever state, both his jewellery and watch ranges seem to be at their most coherent and complete. That ambitious teenager from Tashkent has come a long way in 30 years, and nothing is likely to faze him now, least of all tabloid tittle-tattle. His product remains his priority –and the evolution and growth of his business. “How do I see Jacob & Co evolving? To continue making a difference. To deliver jewellery and watches that haven’t been made before. Pieces that will make history.”
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Food & Drink Words â€“ Eugene Costello
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A Richard Corrigan – well-known after appearances on TV shows such as ‘The Great British Menu’ – grew up on a farm in Ireland. That, along with years at the coalface of fine dining, means hearty food, beautifully executed The last time we visited Bentley’s – back in December, it was such an unforgettable night that we can scarcely remember it. We sat at a table in the dining area downstairs when we became aware – couldn’t fail to, really – of the great man himself, chef-patron Richard Corrigan sitting at the next table, regaling a group of women with anecdotes. As the ladies left, he spied my notebook, roared “You must be Eugene Costello!” and barked (amicably) at his waiters to clear away our table as we would be joining him next door at the bar. A big man with enormous presence, Corrigan is not the sort of man you contradict. So it was that a few minutes later, we were perched on high stools, being hand-fed oysters by him, and allowing him to rattle through the menu on our behalf, picking out the highlights. That the wine flowed freely
goes without saying; as he talked to us on a wide range of subjects – the parlous state of British journalism, the Eurozone crisis, anything, it seemed, but food, he called out to regular customers, greeting them and assuring them he’d be over imminently to say hello. And the ladies with whom he’d been eating and drinking a few minutes earlier? They were, he explained, women who worked for a charity close to his heart; he’d invited them up for a day out in London, capped with a meal on him, before heading off, full of cheer, to catch trains back home. It was more like being at a very sociable and well-connected friend’s casual dinner party than the normal West End fine-dining experience. And speaking to him, it soon becomes apparent why dining chez Richard Corrigan is an experience like few others in the world of eating out…
man for all seasoning
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Food & Drink While there is a bistro downstairs and a fine-dining restaurant upstairs, the ground-floor oyster bar is the place to see and be seen
I came to cooking by watching my mum cook and I was always fascinated by it. I grew up on a farm in Co Meath, near the border with Co Cavan. I suppose in that world it was unusual for a boy to be so into cooking rather than, say, hurling or whatever [hurling is the national sport in Ireland, similar to hockey]. I was always happier with a big spoon in my hand.
My first job was when I was 14, working as a trainee chef in a local hotel. It was at the Kirwin in Athboy, where I fell in love with really great local, I suppose you’d call it organic, produce. After that, I moved to the Kylemore Hotel, across the border in Cavan, then at the tender age of 17 I cleared off to the Netherlands for four years, which was a fantastic opportunity for a young farm lad to be introduced to different philosophies and the continental style of cooking.
My philosophy has always been if it walks, swims or flies, it’s good to go. I’ve never been squeamish about
food. And growing up on a farm, sure, you’re always walking into carcasses hanging in sheds so you can’t afford to be. That said, I’m squeamish about using produce that comes from an
endangered species or where stocks are running low. I’m into conservation, so while I’ll blast away at rabbits till kingdom come, I personally wouldn’t be gone on hare myself, because hares are far less plentiful.
I’ve been lucky to work with some of the best people in the business.
I landed a job working for Michel Lorrain at Le Meridien in Piccadilly at 21. Michel was a genius and I reckon to this day he is one of the best chefs I ever came across. After a year with Michel, I landed my first head-chef role at Stephen Bull in Blandford St in the West End, and then worked at Mulligan’s in Mayfair. After that I came to Bentley’s for a stint, before re-joining Stephen Bull on the Fulham Road, where we won a star.
2008 was a big year for us. We
opened Corrigan’s in Mayfair, which is a real meaty kind of place. We like to try different things, hearty things that people might not be used to – we’ll do game and unusual things like squirrel, as well as all the old favourites. In September that year I took over the lease at Bentley’s, a fantastic oyster bar that’s been going since 1916, and because I’d worked here years earlier it felt like coming home.
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Handcrafted, timeless elegance
Food & Drink Bentley’s combines fantastically presented food that is sourced from the very best producers
I can’t stand pretentiousness. At Bentley’s we have a regular crowd of customers who we love to see and who appreciate great, honest food. When bores or critics come in and start blathering on, trying to impress me, pretending they know all about the difference between rock and native oysters, or boring me about some French oysters they had on holiday, I want to tell them to shut up. But of course I don’t. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. But I’d rather people came
to Bentley’s to have a good old bottle of wine or two; to enjoy great food and have a great evening and come back with their friends. That means a lot more to me than some idiot critic wheedling on about the quality of the oysters or whatever. Really, I’m not interested, and I don’t suppose the readers are, no disrespect to you… But we had a great time when you were last in, and we’ll have a great time the next time you’re in, and that is when I am proud of what we do.
Bentley’s is bigger than any one person. I don’t own it, no one does.
I’m the caretaker, if you like. It’s been here since 1916 and it’ll be here long after I’ve gone. But while I’m here I
want it to be somewhere that people will drop in for great food, good wine and stimulating company.
I love sitting down with customers and sharing a bottle of wine, having a good old argument about politics, or philosophy, anything at all. We’re more than just a restaurant, we’re a place where customers come to enjoy life, to laugh, to debate and to participate. That is our philosophy and our outlook, and we think that is why nearly all of our customers are regulars.
Would I ever throw anyone out of my restaurant? Are you mad? I’d be more likely to be outside dragging them in off the streets! If someone annoys me, I’ll sit down with them, have a drink and argue with them until they finally see that I’m right.
I’m a sucker for classic watches.
I own a 1968 Rolex and a Breguet. The latter is timeless and yet of the moment. It’s a watch that reflects a little of how I think. History is important, but then so is today. I don’t take my watch off in the kitchen, though. What’s the point in spending money on something like this and then, when you’re under pressure, taking it off ?
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“Out Of This World” - Rare Pallasite Meteorite slice with Olivine
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Shamballa Jewels Illustration â€“ Rosalind Monks
Photography - Shamballa Jewels
Shamballa Jewels, run by Mads Kornerup (above left) and brother and partner Mikkel. They occupy the interspace between luxe and spirituality â€“ but his Zen is disturbed by those who steal his designs 71
Shamballa Jewels frostof london.co.uk
s in life, in business there are leaders and followers. Those who set the agenda, and those who play catch-up. Mads Kornerup, co-founder of Shamballa Jewels is the former, with his unique creations adorning such luminaries as Demi Moore, Jay-Z, Heidi Klum, Karl Lagerfeld, Gwyneth Paltrow, Michael Jordan, Robert Downey Junior, Valentino, Dr Dre, Busta Rhymes and many more. Indeed, the buzz about Shamballa’s groovy beaded bracelets has seen it become, literally, the most copied style of jewellery of the last 20 years. A fact that, despite his Zen-like spiritual calm, is clearly something of a bugbear for Mads. “Put it this way, our lawyers are very busy,” he says. “We hit upon a design that joined the dots between luxury and spirituality. Something that looked fabulous but that could be worn every day. Since then, the popularity of our designs has grown but so too have the imitators. Yes, it’s annoying.” Perhaps the most telling aspect of the “cult of Shamballa”, as some style commentators have dubbed it, is that the company doesn’t give any product away. No matter who you are, you won’t be getting a freebie from founders Mads and his business partner and brother, Mikkel. “Madonna, Oprah and other big names have all requested free items from us, but we just don’t do that. ‘Jay-Z doesn’t get comped, so why should you?’ is usually my response,” he says. So what is it about Shamballa that sees everyone from Middle Eastern royalty to captains of industry clamouring to pay up to $500,000 for a single bracelet? For the answer, we need to head back to Paris, circa 1994, where Mads had a store offering a wide range of unique Indian and Tibetan jewellery. His success there saw him move the business to New York two years later, where he
quickly picked up commissions for bespoke pieces from prestigious clients such as Barneys New York. His distinctive design style, channelling symbols and forms from the Hindu religion and using heavy silver as a base became a hot look with New York’s urban hipsters. The tipping point for Shamballa, however, came through an introduction to the rapper Jay-Z in 2000. A mutual friend had suggested to him that he visit Mads’s New York store, in order to pick up some jewellery that might differentiate him from the iced-out, bling styles that most hip-hop stars were sporting at the time. “The Jay-Z connection is key to Shamballa,” says Mads. “My friend suggested that Jay should adopt a more spiritual, bohemian vibe and we helped him do that. In one session together we invented the Shamballa macramé-anddiamond-pave bracelet that you see today.” Then reality intervened, in the form of 9/11. Shocked by the enormity of the event, Mads closed his New York store and retreated back to his native Denmark, in shock and seeking some kind of spiritual solace. “I opened a yoga studio in Copenhagen immediately on my return,” he says. “It was a decisive point both for me and the business. Yoga taught me patience and how to lose any sense of frustration. It’s an inner power that everyone should possess. Everything I have learned, I have learned through yoga and meditation.” Those of a less generous disposition might dismiss this as hippy mumbo-jumbo, but there’s no denying the natural synergy between Mads’s spiritual awakening and the distinctive pieces he produces. The evolution of the Star of Shamballa symbol, for example, represents the creative
“Madonna, Oprah and other big names have all requested free items from us. I just say ‘Jay-Z doesn’t get comped, so why should you?’” 72
QUINTESSENTIAL BRITISH LEATHER GOODS SINCE 1934
The Bullion Collection www.ettinger.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)20 8877 1616
Shamballa Jewels frostof london.co.uk
energy of the universe, a power that Mads felt that he had harnessed through his yoga. “The Star reminds you that you, the wearer, also shine brightly, just like all the stars in our universe. Just as yogic breathing helps you harness the power within, our jewellery is also a symbol of your inner strength,” he says. Teaming up with his brother Mikkel, they created Shamballa Jewels, and launched their first official collection in 2004. The collection, which among other pieces included the famous Shamballa bracelet, became an instant success that soon spread worldwide. The team of two has now become 20 strong, with Mads still hands-on at the helm. “I work strange hours – my best creations come between 10pm and 2am – so we have a young, energetic team out there representing for us. They also help to tweak the designs, adding sexiness and femininity,” he says. The bigger the company gets, though, the higher people’s expectations. When you have fashion gurus such as Lagerfeld (pictured), Armani and Valentino wearing your jewellery, the pressure to deliver perfection becomes ever greater. “There are certain high points in our evolution, for sure,” says Mads. “Making the first bracelet, of course, and getting our products into Colette in Paris. But meeting Karl Lagerfeld in Cannes – a man of such vision and creativity – and then hearing him tell me how much he loved our jewellery; that meant the world to me. He was wearing six of our bracelets!” Despite Shamballa’s success, the jewellery market is currently presenting its own particular challenges. Chief among these is the sourcing of “clean” assets and their finite nature. The growing use of gold and diamonds for industrial use, for example, drives the price up and sees unscrupulous companies acquire their raw materials from less accountable sources. “People expect us to raise the bar, to source rarer and rarer stones, like the exquisite Australian pink Argyle diamonds we’ve introduced. I’m also spending time in Colombia,
trying to introduce emeralds to our work, but we’re not quite there yet. Overriding all of this, though, is being increasingly careful about the damage to our planet when we are sourcing. This is a major issue for us – the materials need to be as clean as possible.” The Shamballa story is one that is still being written. A push into Germany will see top stores in that country finally be given the chance to sell the company’s products and the Middle East still has, says Mads, a huge amount of untapped potential. Above all, though, theirs is a story of positivity, of shining brightly, and embracing your inner power. Whatever your take on spirituality, it’s a philosophy that even the most cynical of us would find it hard to resist.
In brief What’s your favourite watch?
I have the very first gold Rolex GMT Master II, with a green face. It’s a lovely piece. I think that a Shamballa bracelet is the perfect accessory for a watch. It’s a complementary mix of coolness with technology.
Have you had any unusual celebrity requests?
Michael Jordan springs to mind. He was in Barneys New York one day and their celeb stylist called me to say that a customer wanted an oversized bracelet. I was on the way to the airport but when she told me it was Michael, I dropped everything to get to the store. He bought a $35,000 bracelet on the spot and he’s since bought another ten pieces. Another order was a dinosaur claw from a Tyrannosaurus Rex that Michael Schumacher’s wife asked us to cover in jewels. Sadly, it got stolen from the laboratory where it was being stored before we could work on it.
If you could edit a part of your past, what would you change and why?
Not a single thing. Whatever happened, happened because it was supposed to. I learned that mantra from Godfrey Devereux, my yoga teacher. He’s a brilliant man and, during 30 days of intense yoga training, he drilled that into my head. You should have no regrets in life.
Photography - Phillip Shearer 076-080_Tanya StreeterEC.indd 76
Tanya Streeter Words - Scott Manson
What Beneath l i es
Tempus enjoys a different take on the life aquatic, courtesy of a lesson from a world record-breaking freediver
n terms of comfort zones, being deep beneath the sea with no breathing apparatus is about as far from mine as I’m ever likely to get. So when an offer came in to get on a boat and then jump off it, holding my breath and diving as deep as I can, accompanied by world record breaking freediver and former Tag Heuer brand ambassador Tanya Streeter, it’s fair to say I had my reservations. There were, however, some fringe benefits that took the sting out of it. “You’ll be doing it in the Turks and Caicos,” said the organiser. “And you’re staying in the best villa on the island. Oh, and Tanya is a super-hot blonde.” And so it came to pass that I found myself bobbing about on a choppy sea off the coast of Providenciales, one of the many Turks and Caicos Islands, waiting to descend. Before we start, Tanya tells me all sorts of terribly important stuff about equalising my ears, not ascending too rapidly, keeping hold of the guide rope and, crucially, remaining calm. All I know, though, is that the sea is rough, a hungry-looking barracuda has been spotted under the boat and I’m about as calm as a City banker at bonus time. Tanya dons her trademark silver wetsuit, complete with mermaid-esque monofin, and I gingerly lower myself into the waves. Odd thoughts run through my mind such as, why didn’t I buy that travel insurance, just how bad is a barracuda bite and how come I didn’t get a Buck Rogers wetsuit? This unforgiving environment is a far cry from the fabulous Amanyara Resort villa where, just a few hours before, Tanya had given me the lowdown on her remarkable life. Over a reviving pot of peppermint tea, she revealed how she redefined the limits of the extreme sport of freediving, plunging deeper than any rival, male or female, in extraordinary feats of underwater endurance.
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Photography - Heather Schmitt
In all, Tanya broke ten world records, with each attempt running to military precision. And, despite officially retiring from competition in 2006, she still holds the world record for her 2002 “no limits” dive. Accompanied by a 14-man team, she’d begin by doing 40 minutes of breathing exercises on the surface, plus a few shallow dives. At T-minus seven minutes, the two deepest scuba safety divers would go down and then, with two minutes to go, just Tanya, her husband and the boat captain would be left on the surface. “The pressure was hard at this point,” she admits. “I’d keep telling myself not to cry because if you cry you get congested and then you can’t equalise. When the count reached zero, I’d motion for them to pull the pin and the weighted sled would take me down.” Anyone who’s tried scuba diving will know just how painful the pressure can be on your ears, even at a modest 10 to 20m of depth. Surely, then, the effects of diving to 160m must be excruciating? “It is painful,” she concedes, “but you get used to it. “Your lungs compress considerably but there’s a small amount of fluid in them which will compensate for that pressure. The eardrums are more tricky. The deeper you go the more they
bend in, but you then pressurise them and they pop back out. The problem is that you no longer have an air supply to enable you to do it. You have to find all kinds of really creative ways to get little pockets of air, usually in your throat, and then try and push it into your mouth and through your eustachian tubes.” Ultimately though, there’s a point where all Tanya’s air is gone and she arrives at a scary-sounding stage which she’s dubbed ‘riding’ her ear drums. “I did that pretty hard, and it’s very painful,” she says. While Tanya’s safety procedures were eminently thorough, the sport received some unwelcome attention in 2002 when her rival, French free-diver Audrey Mestre, died attempting to beat Streeter’s depth when the inflatable lift bag bringing her to the surface failed. Given the tears that start to flow when Tanya talks of Audrey’s death, this is clearly a subject that still disturbs her. “My God, it was awful, just awful,” she says. “Where I had 20 safety divers and 17 training dives, she had only three in total. She didn’t want to dive that day, I know that, and yet she was encouraged to do so. Eight and a half minutes after she left the surface, she’s being carried back up there by her husband. She is dead.”
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Tanya Streeter Age: 39
Born: Grand Cayman
Lives: Austin, Texas, USA
Occupation: Freediver/TV Presenter /Environmentalist (retired from competition in 2006) Major achievements: Inducted into Women Divers’ Hall of Fame (2002), breaking Men’s NoLimit record with a 160m dive (2002), breaking Men’s Variable Ballast world record with a 122m dive (2003). She still holds the women’s world record for No-Limits Apnea What they say: Sports Illustrated magazine described her as ‘The World’s Most Perfect Athlete’ Fast fact: Tanya can hold her breath for up to six and a half minutes
Photography - Heather Schmitt
“My God, it was awful, just awful. She didn’t want to dive that day, and yet she was encouraged to do so. Eight and a half minutes after she left the surface, she’s being carried back up by her husband. She is dead ” Scott Manson (far left) with Tanya Streeter and other divers
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Photography - Phillip Shearer
However, Tanya is keen to stress the safety and, crucially, the serenity that surrounds the sport. Regarding the latter, her 2005 BBC documentary Diving With Whales includes remarkable footage of her freediving next to a humpback whale and its calf. Unencumbered by a scuba tank and with no air bubbles to spook marine life, Tanya’s languid, graceful dives appear blissful and almost spiritual. It’s this level of calm that I try to channel as Tanya and I bob around in the sea, readying myself for my first freedive. As she adjusts my mask, and I concentrate on taking long, slow deep breaths, the choppy water and barracuda below me start to seem less important. With one last deep breath we drop, pulling ourselves slowly hand-over-hand down a guide rope. I can hear my heart beating in my ears and Tanya’s eyes lock with mine, providing a vital human connection during this unnerving experience. The need for air becomes increasingly obvious, but the stillness of the situation helps to quell any panic. I ascend slowly, enjoying a connection to the ocean far deeper than I could ever have imagined. “That’s it, you’re a freediver,” says Tanya, as I break the surface. For a man who’s previously only been happy hanging out on a boat that’s moored in port, ideally with a large G&T in my hand, freediving with Tanya Streeter has left me a convert to the life aquatic.
Find a buddy who can freedive at least as deep as you can.
Where we stayed
It’s best to dive on a rope that has enough weight at the bottom to keep it straight and for you to pull against on the way down.
Scott was a guest at the Amanayara resort on Providenciales on the Turks and Caicos islands, staying in one of the resort’s exclusive villas. Tanya Streeter runs annual freediving courses and lectures at the resort, usually around the beginning of February to coincide with whale migration paths, which run close to the shore of the resort.
Belly breathe for 2-4 minutes (long, slow inhales and long, slow exhales) and hold your breath floating at the surface for as long as you can. Rest afterwards then repeat for a total of 2-3 times. This will help relax you and awaken your dive reflex.
To get there, fly from Britain to Miami (eight hours) and then on to Providenciales (one hr 45 mins). The villas start from £2,450 for a two-bedroom villa per night. They are also available to buy, with prices starting from £5.5m. amanyaravillas.com
When ready to dive, do the same breathe-up but for 3-5 minutes. Take as deep a breath as you can and pull down the rope hand over hand, remembering to clear (equalise) your ears early and often. Do not push your ears, If they don’t clear, return to the surface and prepare again for another go.
Follow Tanya on twitter and facebook. @TanyaStreeter and tanyastreeter.com
Photography – Heather Schmitt
You and your buddy should alternate taking turns diving, doing the countdown for each other and never taking your eyes off each other. For deeper dives (this is relative to your skill level) the buddy should meet the diver at a third of the way from the surface on the diver’s ascent and remind the diver to breathe only (no talking) at the surface. If at any point either of you feel dizzy after a dive, stop for the day.
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Motoring Words – Kyle Fortune
With the Bugatti Veyron reduced to a handful of special edition models as its production ends where is the next superexclusive, must-have supercar coming from? Buyers might be advised to contact Porsche – it’s readying its 918 Spyder for sale in 2013, and it breaks the traditional mould. No lunatic 1,000hp combustion-engined output here. No, the two-seat 918 Spyder takes a different approach by being a plug-in hybrid, mating a 500hp V8 engine derived from Porsche’s RS Spyder race car to a pair of electric motors driving both front and rear axles. They add a minimum of 218hp. Impressive, but then the numbers Porsche is really touting are its anticipated fuel consumption of 3.0l/100km (94 imp mpg) and CO2 emissions of 70g/km. That allows you to enjoy your supercar indulgence with a clear environmental conscience. But for all the right-on environmental correctness the green number that matters is its lap time around Germany’s Green Hell – the Nürburgring Nordschleife. Porsche says the 918 Spyder will manage the tortuous lap in
less than 7 minutes and 30 seconds. What it’s not saying how much of that will be on electricity alone. We can guess. None, as running on its on-board liquid cooled lithium-ion batteries alone the 918 Spyder’s top speed is 150km/h (94mph). It’s battery-only range of 25km (16 miles) might be enough to lap the Nordschleife, but not with the stopwatch timing. No, for its ultimate performance, a 0-100km/h (0-62mph) time of 3.2 seconds and top speed of more than 320km/h (199mph), those two electric motors will be working in conjunction with the 918 Spyder’s 500hp V8. Making its job easy is the car’s lightweight carbonfibre reinforced monocoque construction, but forget the technology for a moment and just look at it. Hell, it’s gorgeous. When Porsche unveiled its concept at Geneva in 2010 it caused an absolute sensation. Just 918 units will be built, with deliveries starting on September 18 2013. See what they did there?
Porsche’s 918 Spyder combines blistering performance with eco-friendly credentials
Price €645,000 – subject to VAT and local taxes Performance 0-62mph (0-100km/h) – 3.2 seconds Top speed 199mph/320km/h Engine 500hp V8 petrol/two electric motors with 218+hp Transmission 7 Speed paddle-shifted auto, four-wheel drive Construction Carbon fibre-reinforced plastic monocoque
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We’re proud to introduce our new regular grooming expert Carmelo Guastella, managing director of Melogy in London’s St Pancras Hotel and barber to some of the capital’s most discerning gentlemen It’s often said 90 per cent of men can’t shave properly. Sure, you may have some whizz-bang multi-bladed razor, but the chances are that your technique is wrong, and that’s where Carmelo and his crew of shaving experts come in. During an hour-long wet shave, which our art director Ross described as “like a mini spa for the face”, this dapper Sicilian demonstrated why top businessmen and celebs such as Sacha Baron-Cohen have made him their barber of choice. “Almost everyone has bad shaving habits,” says Carmelo. “Mostly it’s lack of preparation. You should spend longer on prepping than you do on the shave.” Check out his four-step plan to a healthy shave below.
Photography - Richard Cannon
01 “Don’t just put gel on and start shaving immediately. Soften the hair with a hot towel or plenty of hot water. The blade should run through the beard with as little traction as possible.”
02 “After massaging in a drop of shaving oil mixed with a little water, I use a brush to lift the hair, which also cleans around the follicle and removes dead skin cells.”
03 “Shave with the grain, rather than against it, pulling the skin taut. If your hairs lie close to the skin, then stick with a single ‘pass’, otherwise you risk getting ingrowing hairs. If they are 45 degrees or more away from the face, you can do a second ‘pass’ against the grain.”
04 “Finish off with another hot towel or a warm water cleanse. This keeps the pores open to receive some shaving balm, which will soothe, moisturise and stop the skin drying out. Finish with a gentle massage to relax the skin.”
For the first time, Graff has shown the inner workings of its timepiece in the exquisite MasterGraff Skeleton. The movement, which can only be cased when the diamonds are in place to avoid any damage, is hand-wound with 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is made up of 164 diamonds and surrounded by sapphire crystals. Ten timepieces are available in both rose and white gold.
Technology Words - Hannah Silver
It’s complicated Four technologically magnificent timepieces
The Duomètre collection from Jaeger-LeCoultre aimed to link two independent mechanisms in one timepiece, thus ensuring a constant level of precision whether the chronograph was in ‘on’ or ‘off ’ mode. Their latest offering, the Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon, claims to be the first tourbillion watch adjustable to the nearest second. The design of the watch means the tourbillion is visible as it rotates around the axis of its titanium carriage but also as it spins around a second axis on a 20-degree incline. The amalgamation of two rotations effectively frees the watch from the limits of gravity.
The Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is astronomically awesome. It enables the user to see the exact location of over 500 stars and constellations in the night sky from a specified location on Earth. The celestial star chart, programmed for the owner’s location, shows the changes in the sky from day to night, while the back of the watch gives information on sunrises and sunsets. The tourbillion, too, is equally advanced. The parts of the constant-force mechanism enclosed in the tourbillon’s cage weigh less then one gram, meaning there is always a supply of power to the escapement.
Patek Philippe’s Triple Complication Reference 5208 is the first watch to combine a chronograph, minute repeater and instantaneous perpetual calendar. It is also Patek’s first Grand Complication that has a balance spring and a Pulsomax® escapement, enclosed in an attractive platinum case.
Photography - Neil Rabinowitz
Superyachts Words - Martin Redmayne
Dock at Gustavia, St Barth’s, to mingle with the superyacht elite
hen March arrives, everyone’s attention turns towards the French Caribbean Island of St Barthélemy, the billionaires’ playground and the home of the St Barth’s Bucket, a regatta that attracts some of the world’s wealthiest few. This tiny island plays host to over a £1bn worth of yachts for incredible racing in the most stunning conditions. Some 40 or more yachts all descend on the port of Gustavia on 23 March for three days of thoroughbred tracking around rugged rocks in pristine waters. This superyacht race is now in its 25th year and has become the must-attend event for the serious owner. Some arrive with vast entourages and the island is virtually taken over with every villa and hotel occupied by someone linked to the Bucket [pictured overleaf ]. The social programme is pretty cool, too. The star of the race this year will undoubtedly be SY Hetairos, a 60m-plus high-performance ketch, built in ultralightweight carbon fibre and already stealing line honours in every race she enters. This speed machine has just completed the RORC 600 around the Caribbean islands and is likely to carve up the competition in St Barth’s.
“The Americanbuilt yacht MY Sycara IV is owned by a major car dealer in New Jersey, whose trips to the island are so legendary that he has been nicknamed ‘Mayor of St Barth’s’”
Her owner, a German industrialist with a passion for the environment, told his design team to build the fastest super sailing yacht possible. They seem to have met that brief. On the quay in Gustavia, eyes will also be on one of the most stunning motor yachts built this decade, MY Sycara IV [main pic, previous page]. This classic-styled modern build will be found moored at the dockside with all of her brightwork and topsides in immaculate condition. This American-built yacht is owned by a major car dealer in New Jersey, who spends his time cruising the Caribbean in true gentlemanly style. His trips to the island are legendary, so much so that he is nicknamed the “Mayor of St Barth’s”. Across the waters of the Caribbean, on the British Virgin Island of Virgin Gorda, is YCCS Virgin Gorda – the latest addition to the cool clubs for the superyacht fraternity. It opened on New Year’s Eve with a party for the yachting elite and provides a new state of the art marina for yachts up to 100m. The 90m-plus MY Mushashi, owned by Larry Ellison, was recently spied there. A seal of approval if ever there was one. The Caribbean is definitely the place to be in March if yachts are your passion, so book that flight now. You will not be disappointed. I guarantee it.
Martin Redmayne is the founder of the Superyacht Group thesuperyachtgroup.com
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Photography - Sakis Papadopoulos
Travel Words – Scott Manson
That land that time forgot
Super exclusive and perfectly peaceful – Frégate Island Private is a luxury destination like no other
One of the 16 villas on Frégate Island Private, with sun deck overlooking the white sandy beaches and azure mirror-glass waters of the Indian Ocean
bout ten years ago, a well-known travel company ran a tube poster advert which read, “Your life is meaningless and you will die having achieved comparatively little. You need a holiday.” It was accompanied by a photo of a paradise beach. Leaving aside the questionable marketing tactic of insulting your target audience, it made a solid point. In terms of life-affirming moments, there are few things to beat a really great holiday. And nowhere is this affirmation more apparent than when you’re winging your way to a tropical holiday destination by helicopter. The pilot, a mustachioed wing commander-type who clearly has one of the best jobs in the world, points out a few sights on the 15-minute flight from the main island. In truth, though, it falls on deaf ears as I’m comfortably ensconced in my own private world, the hum and crackle of air traffic control in my headphones combining with the swoop and whoosh of the helicopter to fulfil all my James Bond fantasies. On touchdown, we’re greeted by Jared, our personal butler for the next few days. Previous places I’ve stayed that claim to have this service usually fall short of the mark. Often, the personal butler turns out to be a chap who carries your bags to the room on the first day and turns your bed down at night. Here, though, Jared is with me every step of the way, remembering everything from my cocktail choice at dinner to precisely where I like to position my sun lounger on one of the island’s seven talcum-soft white sand beaches. They include secluded Marina Beach, protected by cliffs with calm waters, and Anse Victorin, a “secret” beach reachable by a flight of 100 stairs. Better still, two of the beaches can
be exclusively yours, simply by turning a sign at the entrance to “occupied”. Even at its peak, though, Frégate can never accommodate more than 40 guests, so you won’t find yourself fighting for beach space. This idyllic granite island is dotted with 16 villas, all of them commanding incredible views of the Indian Ocean. These mahogany marvels also boast infinity pools, Jacuzzi, and marble floors, plus superbly comfortable four-poster beds. This is no Maldives-style perfectly manicured resort though. You know the sort of place, staffed with sunglasscleaning technicians and other nannying types, all set in a destination that seems groomed to within an inch of its life. Instead, Frégate is an island that has been sensitively developed, with a strong emphasis on the environment, from rainwater collection to the reintroduction of native flora and fauna. Indeed, a morning spent with their full-time ecologist, Greg, is a true eye-opener, as he takes us on a tour of this 300-acre island. It’s almost too much to process– total sensory overload – with the dense undergrowth, punctuated by the whoop and whistle of its inhabitants, making me feel like I have a walk-on part in a Jurassic Park remake. A rustle in the bushes
reveals itself to be one of the island’s most famous residents, an Aldabra Giant Tortoise. There are an unbelievable 2,000 of these creatures wandering around the island and they’re like a throwback to the days of the dinosaurs. The chap we’ve spotted is one of the oldest – around 110 years old – and is happy to accept a gift of a slightly squashed banana from my pocket. To complete the picture of untouched paradise, Steve points to a tiny Seychelles Magpie Robin perched in a nearby branch. Given the vibrant colours sported by many of the island’s birds, this little fella wouldn’t have grabbed our attention were it not for the fact that Steve reveals that it’s the seventh rarest bird in the world. “We recently transferred 59 of these birds to the island, as part of a worldwide conservation scheme,” he says. “If the population takes off on Frégate as we expect, it will be the first bird species in the world once classified as Critically Endangered to be removed from Birdlife International’s threatened birds of the world list because of conservation action.” Everything seems to flourish here – the whole place is like an episode of Gardener’s World on steroids, – and is so fertile that it feels like a seed planted at daybreak would be higher than my head by sunset.
“This is no Maldives-style perfectly manicured resort though, the sort of destination that seems groomed to within an inch of its life…”
An infinity pool with Jacuzzi and decked area should the ocean prove too much of an effort for you to reach
Conservation on Fregate
For 200 years, the island functioned as a coconut and cinnamon plantation. These non-native plants displaced indigenous species and reduced the natural habitats of the native wildlife. The Seychelles’ largest nursery was then created to propagate the tens of thousands of indigenous trees needed to rehabilitate the landscape, and a conservation programme was put in place to restore the populations of native species. The result has increased the population of the world’s seventh rarest bird species – the Seychelles Magpie Robin – from 22 in 1995 to 180 in 2010; facilitated the growth of the second largest population of the Aldabra Giant Tortoise from 180 in 1995 to 600 in 2010; and rehabilitated 80 per cent of the island’s total flora.
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How to do it
Scott Dunn (scottdunn.com; 020 8682 5400) offers a seven-night family package for Frégate Island Private, including one night free and free accommodation for children, from £21,960 for a family of two adults and two children under 11. The price includes seven nights full-board accommodation in a one-bedroom villa, including non-alcoholic beverages; return economy-class Emirates flights; return helicopter transfers; welcome drink on arrival; 30-minute spa ritual per adults; daily 45-minute yoga session; and all taxes. Upgrade to Business-Class from £6,744, or to First-Class from £12,636. Prices based on travel from 16 July onwards, subject to availability.
The villas are designed along the lines of chic colonial, while a relaxing spa at sunset should smooth out the anxieties and stresses of lounging on a private beach or going to look at giant tortoises in the forest
After our expedition, the Rock Spa proves to be the perfect place to unwind. Situated at one of the highest points on the island, and with a suitably tranquil vibe, it’s home to a skilful set of massage therapists who take delight in revealing just how knotted my back muscles are, before proceeding to pound the tension into submission. Dinner that night is taken al fresco. Jared and the island’s head chef Gabriel prepare a barbecue on the beach, with our table placed on the sand surrounded by flaming torches and the rustle of hundreds of hermit crabs providing the soundtrack. Lobster is served, alongside beautifully moist chicken and fish which, if it were any fresher, would probably leap from the plate to make a bid for the nearby ocean. We also sample
the traditional Seychelles Creole salad, spiked with spring onions grown in the island’s vast gardens, as are most of the fruit and vegetables that are served to guests. Indeed, it’s the sort of place that, were you stranded Castaway-style, you could live quite happily on the island’s bountiful produce. But even in paradise there is a serpent to provide the venomous bite of disappointment. And for us it was that out trip was too short. Indeed, a five-day holiday here is way, way too short. In truth, with 3km of island to explore, and deep sea fishing, scuba diving, and other active pursuits easily available, a ten-day trip would really hit the spot. No more than that though because, frankly, enjoying this level of luxury should only be savoured in small doses. Otherwise you may never get on that return helicopter.
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Moments in time Words – Hannah Silver
On set with the king
Elvis Presley looks every inch the American idol on the set of Blue Hawaii in 1961. Relaxing on location in Hawaii, the burgeoning movie star sported a Hamilton Ventura. The original timepiece made watchmaking history upon its release as the first to be electric and battery-powered. Featuring a black dial and digit markings finished with embossed round points, Elvis had personally requested that the original leather watch strap be exchanged for a metal bracelet. Hamilton has subsequently released two new Ventura models to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Elvis’s birth – a replica of the original 1950s’ model and the XXL version. Truly, a watch fit for a King. hamiltonwatch.com
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