esprit a u g u s t
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The latest growing trends for nails
COVERS: One of today’s biggest bands, One Direction, recently unveiled their debut fragrance: Our Moment, a sparkling feminine scent with splashes of fresh fruit and seasonal flowers infused with undertones of warm musk. Available exclusively in Harrods for two weeks from 25th August 2013, and nationwide from 9th September.
esprit a u g u s t
Contents 6 esprit News A look at what’s making the news in the beauty industry this month, including our regular contribution from Jasmine Award winner, Persolaise
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The latest growing trends for nails
24 On the Nail Nail trends have come a long way in the past few years, with unusual colours, textures and designs becoming readily available...so what happened to create this rapid change?...Jocelyn Bailey reports
26 Beauty Junkies Co Founder/ Editor Lorraine Wilson-Morris Director / Publisher Linda Key Business Communications Manager Maria Tatchley Business Coordinator Maddi Kelly
Jocelyn Bailey takes a look at the fast-growing beauty supplement market and asks some leading experts about the benefits that supplements offer the consumer
30 Beauty Related A selection of new products that are about to be launched in the beauty marketplace
Art Editor / Production Terry Wilson Regular Contributors Graeme Wilson, Imogen Matthews, Jocelyn Bailey, Penny Farmer, Persolaise, Petsa Kaffens, Roja Dove, Tricia Welch, Vicci Bentley
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editor s welcome This month, I’m typing my Editor’s letter while overlooking the perfect scene. My son and I are staying with my American friends, Judy and Joe, who live on the water (Chesapeake Bay) in Lusby, Maryland. It’s so serene right now and it makes me appreciate why many authors prefer to be somewhere quiet to start their next novel! Not that my eds letter is anywhere near starting a novel, but
occasionally peace and quiet is all you need to get going. Although I’m on holiday (and working), I still like to check out the local Perfumery Departments in the local stores, i.e. Macy’s, Lord & Taylor and Nordstrom, to see what’s on offer. For example, at Nordstrom’s they had a 17-piece premium gift set worth $80 that included miniature fragrances, skincare and makeup - a great GWP with a fragrance purchase. In Macy’s I was drawn to a beautiful gold Michael Kors Tote Bag on display and was told I would receive this complimentary Tote by purchasing either a scent or make-up from the Michael Kors new fragrance and beauty collection. I tested the new MK fragrance collection: Sporty Citrus, Sexy Amber and Glam Jasmine and Sexy Amber came out tops for me.
In Lord & Taylor, a new Laura Mercier fragrance caught my eye and my wrist - Vanille Gourmande EdT - a contemporary and sophisticated scent that contains a beautiful mix of vanilla orchid, vanilla liqueur, musk, heliotrope, daylily, bourjon vanilla, sandalwood and amber accords. Meanwhile, in this month’s issue, we have a fab feature on how the Nail market continues to grow by introducing new concepts in ways of keeping nails looking their best at all times. Plus, taking a look at products that beauty junkies continue to be addicted to! Of course, we have our popular Net Scent column from Persolaise, News stories, Spa News and Beauty Related.
8 Enjoy the read!
Lorraine Wilson-Morris Editor
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Politicians advised to acknowledge the British beauty sector In order to urge UK Politicians to recognise the worldwide prospects of the UK’s beauty industry, Cosmetic Executive Women UK and HSBC recently sponsored a reception at the House of Commons to commemorate and promote its significance, which is worth £17billion to the UK economy and employs over one million people The reception was hosted by Caroline Neville, CEW’s President along with Ian Wright, MP, and Carol Bagnald, Regional
Clare and Rebecca Hopkins, Balance Me, with Lord Digby Jones
and are estimated to rise to £715million (839million approx), by the end of this year. The industry body also wants to see more women encouraged to reach the
Carol Bagnald, HSBC and Roisin Donnelly, Corporate Marketing Director, P&G and Chairman, CEW (UK). (Right): Clare Morgan and Marigay McKee, Harrods with Caroline Neville Lord Digby Jones, Margaret Mountford, Business Consultant and Caroline Neville, President, CEW (UK)
Commercial Director at HSBC, and featured keynote speeches from Lord Digby Jones Kt; former Director General of the Confederation of British Industry
of the global beauty market. CEW (UK) are kick starting this campaign and will be there to support brands throughout.” The global beauty industry is predicted to grow almost a third (29%) to £420billion (¤487billion) by 2017. UK exports for cosmetics have been increasing at approximately 5% every year. In addition, online beauty sales reached £606million (¤702million approx), in 2012
highest levels of the beauty business. To support this, 620,000 businesses in the UK are owned by women, many within the beauty industry. It is predicted that by 2025, women will account for 60% of all personal wealth, and much of this will sit in the 50 plus group.
Vaudd fills a fragrant void Percy & Reed’s Paul Percival, Lisa Barbour and Adam Reed
and Roisin Donnelly, Corporate Marketing Director of P&G and Chairwoman of CEW (UK). Caroline Neville said: “British beauty products are respected globally for their style and innovation in much the same way as British fashion and British luxury brands. We need to do more to export our products and secure a larger share
Daniel Vaudd (Perfumer and Cosmetic Scientist) and his partner Fabian D’Image are the creators of Vaudd - a beauty and fragrance brand based on the principles of haute parfumerie The limited edition, hand-crafted fagrances are made using only quality ingredients, and are exclusively
available via www.vaudd.com Dysis Eau de Parfum, with notes of champagne, blue jasmine and pink cedar wood, is constructed for evening use and presented in a Vaudd signature flacon: flawless French glass, lithographed in platinum ink and is priced at £56 for 30ml. The Dysis Scentable Scarf adds a new dimension of layering and combines elements of vision, scent and touch. It retails at £234 (plus a free 30ml Dysis Parfum).
LGFB’s new partnerships and fundraising successes As we are all aware, one in three people will receive a cancer diagnosis in their lifetime so it’s vital that our industry’s flagship charity, Look Good Feel Better, continues to grow. That’s why the LGFB head office team has been busy focusing their efforts on fundraising activities and encouraging wider support...here’s a look at the charity’s latest partnership news Sponsorship and more from Beauty@Tesco LGFB is pleased to announce that Beauty@Tesco has agreed to sponsor
features the message #bekindtoyou, to raise awareness and promote discussion around women’s health and wellbeing. Preceding its launch will be a one hundred mile, Bath to London sponsored walk led by co-founder Abi Wright, her colleagues (in dressing gowns!), plus a celebratory Afternoon Tea event on 16th September. The company will also be hosting a series of Twitter chats about mind, body, and soul throughout the week.
all turned in ‘PB’ (personal best) performances at this year’s LGFB Golf Day and British 10K Run to raise valuable funds. Tee-ing off with LGFB Golf Day: Prizes were awarded for longest drive and nearest to pin, with overall winner presented with the G’Olfactive Trophy, sponsored by L’Oréal. Other generous sponsors included Kenneth Green Associates, Puig UK, Bare Escentuals, Urban Retreats and Estée Lauder many of which donated highly desirable items for auction. Keeping up with the pace: As one of London’s most prestigious road races, LGFB was immensely proud to have its own ‘Team LGFB’ with over 100 runners from eight member companies pounding through the capital.
LGFB ‘Sporting Heroes’ their new website, create a new fundraising initiative called ‘Girl’s Night In’ and to support customer fundraising both in-store and online. In addition, Beauty@Tesco will be donating products for the patient gift bags and raising the profile of the charity through its customer magazine.
LGFB wishes to acknowledge all those industry runners and golfers from its member companies who Eight company members helped make up ‘Team LGFB’ for the British 10k run - pictured are the teams from Charles Worthington and Bare Escentuals
Well done to Charles Worthington, Coty, Dior, Bare Escentuals, Estée Lauder, KGA, Glossy Box, and Revlon.
Meet LGFB new supporters Spabreaks.com Online spa booking agency company Spabreaks.com, which already creates a bespoke ‘Recovery Retreats’ package for women undergoing cancer treatment, is now supporting the charity. As part of this collaboration, exciting initiatives are afoot including the first #bekindtoyou Women’s Wellness Week - created by Spabreaks.com in aid of LGFB. Set for launch on 16th September, Women’s Wellness Week
These are busy but exciting times and we are encouraged by the interest and recognition from new supporters which will help build on our long standing Industry support and create new opportunities and funds for our charity. As figures for new diagnosis continues to grow, it is essential we expand our service to reach tens of thousands more women and young people.
Sarahjane Robertson, LGFB Executive Director
Spa&salon The skin guru passes on her trade secrets Skin therapist extraordinaire, Donna Glazer has set up www.donnaglazer.co.uk to pass on her knowledge to therapists and the consumer Often referred to as ‘the skin whisperer’, at the age of 20, she created the clinical brand, Face It in London, which over two decades later, still stands strong today.
Face It - Providing the highest quality skin care treatments with qualified and experienced therapists
Receiving numerous accolades, The Clinic has, for nine consecutive years, been the Environ Salon of the Year. The Clinic has become the UK distributor for the internationally renowned brand, Dermaviduals. Treatments and technology include a muscle stimulating and lymph drainage massage, as well as radio frequency, sonophresis, iontophresis, IPL Skin Rejuvination, Dermal Rollering and LED light therapy. Donna Glazer In her training at The Skin School, she incorporates information on some of the most common skin concerns (corneotherapy, acne, rosacea, and pigmentation), how to treat them with suitable ingredients, and the machines available on the market. Alongside this, she teaches therapists how to conduct a thorough skin analysis and consultation, delving into people’s history and origins. Day classes in London cost £150. Prior to attending, candidates must advise Donna on their current knowledge of the skin, along with the brands they use, and what they want to achieve and learn.
Review the stylist The power of individual reviews on websites is the concept behind a new beauty website. Beauty Hum (www.BeautyHum.com) was recently started by Lara Solomon and addresses the need to be able to review the stylist i.e. the person who gave the experience rather than the salon Lara says: “A recent survey found that three quarters of clients surveyed consider themselves to be loyal to their stylist rather than their salon and yet, until now, there was no way to review or recommend a stylist online. In the same survey 74% of women surveyed prioritise recommendation and ‘on trend’ hairdressing when making their salon choice - people want to know where is good to go and who is good to see depending on their individual needs. An article in June’s Economist found that more than ten reviews for a product created a dramatically higher conversion rate, hence why Beauty Hum will help not just the clients, but also stylists and therapists.” Hair and beauty professionals can add themselves to the site and also their clients can suggest that they be added and Lara will then contact them.
Elemis launches in Indonesia The multi-award winning British skincare brand, Elemis, has recently launched in four luxurious resort Spas in Bali in Indonesia It is distributed in Indonesia by Mandara Spa, which operates spas worldwide. Managing Director of Elemis, Sean Harrington, says: “Each resort is unique
and in the most beautiful setting, where you can take time to enjoy your surroundings and truly reap the benefits of the hands-on face and body therapies.”
Established in London in 1990, Elemis is renowned for its high performance products containing potent medicinal herbs, plant extracts and collagen boosting seaweed, Padina Pavonica, which are combined with cultural touches inspired by Chinese, Ayurvedic, Tibetan, Japanese and Middle Eastern therapies.
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a look at what’s new in the marketplace Fragrance mirrors fashion The designer, Issey Miyake is known globally for his signature pleats and this is a feature that he has focused on in his new fragrance entitled Pleats Please. Aurélien Guichard has composed a bright and cheerful bouquet. Its primary inspiration was light, an intrinsic element in the world of Issey Miyake, in the form of shimmering highlights. Then came the idea of verticality, reflecting the structure of the pleat. The sparkling top note opens with the intriguing aroma of nashi, a hybrid fruit that oscillates between pear and apple, with the pear note predominating. The upbeat middle note is warm and vibrant with peony and sweet pea. The base note settles into the rich woody notes of cedar while patchouli, taking on a vertical character, permeates the composition. Sweet, sensuous vanilla infuses the trail with radiant warmth. To interpret the image of the pleat, the geometrical spirit of a multifaceted polyhedron was chosen for the bottle. The product range comprises a trio of Eau de Toilette in three formats: 30ml, 50ml and 100ml with a starting price of £33.00 and a moisturising body lotion for £25.00. The fragrance is supported by an advert using photography by Nick Knight.
Facial definition With 30 years of expertise in medical anti-aging, Laboratories Filorga has launched its latest cosmetic treatment - Skin Structure Firmness Definition Serum - a restructuring skincare product that addresses firmness threedimensionally, by acting simultaneously on volume, density and slackening. Skin Structure creates a collagen injection-like effect that fills out cutaneous depressions and enhances volume. The plant-based formula creates a stretch-effect mesh over the skins surface, smoothing and redefining features by pulling outwards like a face-lift. Using Filorga’s exclusive skin restructuring formula HA+NCTF, combined with Collaxyl, a collagen peptide, skin is firmed and revitalised from the deep-lying layers to the surface, while boosting collagen production. Available from September 2013, Skin Structure Firmness Definition Serum 30ml, (£54) will be exclusive to Marks & Spencer Beauty stores and online at www.marksandspencer.com
The spirit of India Inspired by the Royal House of Marwar-Jodphur in Rajasthan, Penhaligon’s latest fragrance, Vaara, was designed to commemorate the birth of the granddaughter of His Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh II. Capturing this aromatic and vibrant world of the Maharaja, was Master Perfumer, Bertand Duchaufour, who
travelled to Jodhpur to explore the family palaces, exotic gardens and bustling city markets, which provided an abundance of inspiration for the fragrance creator. Vaara opens with coriander, carrot seed, saffron and quince, at the heart, roses blend with Indian magnolia with an added touch of freesia and iris before giving way to a luscious combination of honey and white musk over a base of tonka, cedarwood and sandalwood. Vaara EdP 50ml - £85, 100ml £120, is now available from Penhaligon’s boutiques and UK stockists. Vaara will also be exclusively available in India at the Umaid Bhawan Palace Collection Shop.
All about shadow Clinique are introducing All About Shadow and All About Shadow Primer for Eyes, a dramatic new look that just takes seconds to apply. A luxurious eye shadow in a rich creamy formula, All About Shadow delivers high density pigment and intense colour that glides on easily and stays put throughout the day. With colours ranging
from nudes, goldens to greens, pinks, blues to violets, All About Shadow offers options to suit every skin tone. To increase the wear, Clinique offers All About Shadow Primer for Eyes which significantly improves colour retention, reduces creasing and extends wear for up to twelve hours when applied under All About Shadow. Ophthalmologist tested and safe to use on even the most sensitive of skin, Clinique’s All About Shadow Primer for Eyes, £20.00; All About Shadow Singles, £16.00; All About Shadow Duos, £22.00; All About Shadow Quads, £28.00 and Quickliner for Eyes Intense, £14.00 are now available at Clinique counters nationwide and online at www.clinique.co.uk
In the air! Kenzo’s latest fragrance, launched last month and entitled Flower in the Air, is a totally new interpretation of the poppy. It’s a beautifully light and airy floral fragrance. Top notes comprise bergamot and pink pepper whilst middle notes are a rose accord creating a dazzling floral heart. It is made up of a unique and modern combination of rose extracts to draw out new facets of the flower to create a unique rose fragrance. This exciting new fragrance retails at £39 for 30ml, £57 for 50ml and £77.50 for 100ml.
Technological skincare Building on from the multi-award winning anti-ageing Frankincense skincare collection, Neal’s Yard Remedies have introduced Frankincense Intense™. This high efficacy technological skincare, harnesses the powerful stem cells from the Gardenia plant and works together with a synergised three peptide complex to provide multiple levels of collagen production for firmer, younger looking skin. Available form September (£55.00, 50g), Frankincense Intense™ is backed by proven clinical results, which show a visible reduction in the appearance of fine lines, and wrinkles.
Here’s mud in your eye! Following the success of Youthmud and Supermud, Glamglow are set to launch their latest product, Glamglow Brightmud Eye Treatment. Designed in Hollywood for exclusive behind-thescenes use on the red carpet, this tap-on wipe-off eye product transforms tired eyes in just three minutes! Powered by an innovative application delivery system, this bioactive mud formula contains the highest quality ingredients, that when applied, activate brightening and plumping. Simply tap-on around the inner and outer eye orbital and after three minutes, wipe off to leave a micro-layer of hydrating actives that work to target dark circles, puffiness and fine lines. It can even be applied over make up without having to retouch. Launching this month, Glamglow Brightmud Eye Treatment (£44.99) is available from www.glamglowmud.co.uk
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