Issue.2 Vol.1 May/June 2011
Fine Foodies Passionate about good food Brand new foodiiene magaz
James Martin INTERVIEW
THE SATURDAY KITCHEN CHEF TALKS HOME-COOKING
] SUMPTUOUS RECIPES ] DAIRY DELIGHTS ] IN SEASON
EAT LIKE THE ITALIANS
Fine Foodies Passionate about good food
Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Essex CM22 6HJ Telephone: 01279 816300 www.finefoodiesmag.com Editor: Rachel Symonds e: email@example.com t: 01279 810088
elcome to the second issue of
Fine Foodies magazine, and what a couple of months it’s been since our launch.
When we came up with the concept for
Contributing Editor: Sarah Willingham
Fine Foodies last autumn, we knew there was
Contributors: Jennifer Britt, JJ Goodman, Jane Baxter, Lindy Wildsmith
a captive audience of people who loved good
Sub Editor: Jeff Munn-Giddings
have been completely overwhelmed with the
food and wanted to read all about it, but we
Group Sales Manager: Ruth Gilmour
response to the first issue. Whether you’ve been raving about it in
e: firstname.lastname@example.org t: 01279 810067
store where you picked it up, or commenting on Twitter, thanks to all
Sales Executives: Ben Brooks e: email@example.com t: 01279 810068 Production Leann Lau e: firstname.lastname@example.org t: 01279 810075 Design Clare Holland e: email@example.com Administration/Distribution/Marketing James Rix e: firstname.lastname@example.org t: 01279 816300 Accounts Lorraine Evans e: email@example.com t: 01279 816300 Managing Director David Cann e: firstname.lastname@example.org
who have given us such great feedback. And so we bring you our second issue, packed full of all the things you told us you wanted in a magazine. Our cover story features Saturday Kitchen star, James Martin, as he prepares to appear at the forthcoming BBC Good Food Show Summer in June (see page 20). James talks about his early memories of cooking and reveals his signature dish. If you struggle for inspiration when cooking fish, then look no further than our featured recipes on page 28, courtesy of CJ Jackson and Fish Cookbook. Or, if you grow your own fruit and veg then why not turn to page 24, where we show you how to put to good use all your home-grown produce. In this issue, we also head over to Italy with Lindy Wildsmith, who takes us on a whistle-stop tour of all her favourite native dishes, which is enough to whet anyone’s appetite. And if you prefer something a little closer to home, turn to our special feature on Scotland’s traditional cuisine on page 12. Whatever you reason for picking up Fine Foodies, we hope you enjoy it. And if you have any comments or suggestions for the magazine, please feel free to email me at rachel.symonds@
Published by Target Publishing Limited. Printed in the UK by The Magazine Printing Company plc www.magprint.co.uk ©2011 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material in accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004.
finefoodiesmag.com. Or join the Fine Foodies community at Twitter – we can be found @finefoodies
Rachel RACHEL SyMONDS
Sarah Willingham is one of the most successful people in the food industry, best known for appearing alongside top chef Raymond Blanc as an inspector on the popular BBC show, The Restaurant. With two business degrees, the self-confessed foodie most recently was acknowledged as one of the 35 most successful women under 35 in the UK, featured in the Courvoisier Top 500 and in Business Weekly’s young Entrepreneur of the year Awards. For over a decade, Sarah has managed some of the biggest brands in the restaurant industry, including Pizza Express International. In 2004, she was part of a consortium which acquired The Bombay Bicycle Club in London, growing it from six restaurants to 17.
May/june 2011 FINE FOODIES
Contents Passionate about good food
22 COvEr StOry
James Martin on creating honest food and cooking for a live audience
Food focus: Dairy – We journey through the UK to uncover the nation’s finest dairy producers
20 Recipes – Cook using home-grown produce with the help of The Allotment Cookbook
Recipes – Get creative in the kitchen with Fish Cookbook
Global foodie – Lindy Wildsmith takes us on a tour of her favourite Italian cuisine
6 8 10
Foodie bites – What’s going on in the world of fine food Shelf life – Explore the latest products in store
Sarah’s view – Fine Foodies Contributing Editor, Sarah Willingham, on the need to get back to good, honest cooking
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
issUE 2 vol.1 MaY/JUNE 2011
UK fare – Fine Foodies offers a mouth-watering insight into Scotland’s food heritage
In season – what’s ideal for eating and cooking with at this time of year? Riverford Organic tells all
Drink up – from wines and cocktail ideas to the newest hot drinks
Fine Foodie hero – Martin Graham
Foodie bites ProtEctioN for thE cUMbErlaNd saUsagE
Top of the shops A Yorkshire farm shop has been named the best in the UK. Cedar Barn Farm Shop and Café in Pickering, north Yorkshire, beat off stiff competition from across the UK to take the title for Best On-Farm Café/Restaurant. Awarded by the National Farmers’ Retail & Markets Association (FARMA), Cedar Barn was praised by the judges for its “top quality, homegrown food on offer, served by friendly staff in a stunning setting with spectacular views across the farm”. The shop, housed in an eco-friendly, cedar-clad building, sells its own produce as well as many locally-sourced goods. The menu in the café reflects a similar ethos, with local and seasonal produce chosen. “Our business has grown out of our love for food and farming, but we also pride ourselves on offering an important community service, so it’s great to achieve national recognition for the hard work of all our staff,” enthused Cedar Barn’s Karl Avison, who runs the farm with his wife Mandy.
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
Producers of Cumberland sausages must now follow strict criteria to market them as such after securing geographical protection status. In the same way as Melton Mowbray pork pies and Stilton cheese can only be so named if they are made in these areas, now the Cumberland sausage must come from Cumbria after it was granted Protected Geographical Indication status. Therefore, any being sold as
Traditional Cumberland Sausage must meet strict criteria for meat content, ingredients, production process and place of origin. The protection follows a six-year application process by local producers to the European Union. Speaking on behalf of the Cumberland Sausage Association, farmer Peter Gott said: “It’s seen as the signature dish of Cumbria and we are passionate about protecting its long-established reputation.”
A TASTE OF ThE cApITAl Sample the delights of some of London’s best eateries at the capital’s largest open-air festival. Taking place on June 16 and 17, Taste of London is held in Regent’s Park, featuring a host of exciting restaurants, chefs and 150 food and drink producers. New for 2011 is The Secret Garden, tucked away behind Regent’s Park, where visitors can take part in Q&A sessions with top chefs, and indulge in Champagne and canapés. • Find out more by visiting www.tastefestivals.com/london
Top chefs in line-up for summer show Masterchef stars, along with James Martin, join a stellar line-up of experts at this year s BBC Good Food Show Summer. Dhruv Baker, who won the 2010 series of Masterchef, will be cooking up a storm in the demonstration kitchen during the show, taking place from June 15 to 19 at Birmingham s NEC. He will be joined by Masterchef judges, John Torode and Gregg Wallace, as well as other top chefs including James and Rachel Allen. • Find out more by visiting www.bbcgoodfoodshowsummer.com. Turn to page 20 to hear from James Martin.
GET YOUR KIDS IN THE KITCHEN
If you d like to give your youngsters an early education in cookery, then a forthcoming event could be just the thing. Kitchen Academy is running a residential cookery school for children this summer at PGL s Marchants Hill, in Surrey. Whether they simply want to learn the basics or brush up on existing cooking skills, this week-long holiday will teach them how to cook a variety of dishes. Taught by Kitchen Academy chef Jethro Carr, afterwards, the youngsters will be given their own recipe book containing everything they have learnt. • Find out more at www.pgl.co.uk
It seems us Brits are getting healthier, with fruit topping our snack of choice. New research has revealed that some 58 per cent of us would reach for fruit, while 48 per cent would choose a drink. However, we also still like a sugary snack, with 49 per cent admitting to succumbing to a biscuit and 48 per cent chocolate.
LOCAL PRODUCE CELEBRATED IN NORTH-EAST
Artisan parties and a plan to create a giant edible map are just some of the highlights from the north-east s EAT festival. EAT NewcastleGateshead is a 10-day food extravaganza in June, which will see local producers join restaurants and other culinary experts to celebrate all the food fare on offer in the north east of England. The event includes a free weekend of street food markets, cookery demonstrations, the Chocolate Festival, as well as the Chilli and Beer Festival. In addition, Cakebook, taking place on June 26 in the north, will see the creation of a giant edible map of north England, while the Artisan House Party is a series of foodmaking themed parties. • Find out more at www.eatnewcastlegateshead.com
Food fans called on to cast vote The Observer Food Monthly Awards have launched for 2011 to celebrate all that is great about British food. Run in association with Bordeaux Wines, there are a range of categories to vote in, including Best Independent Local Retailer, Best Food Blog, Reader s Recipe and Food Personality OFM Editor, Allan Jenkins, commented: In the 10 years that OFM has been reporting on the food industry we have rarely seen a time as turbulent as this. Organics are in retreat,
supermarkets are still strangling farmers and businessmen are becoming billionaires by betting on wheat and rice prices. We are proud the awards celebrate the people challenging our eating and shopping habits, those that appreciate the value of food. I hope our readers think hard about who they nominate for an award and I am sure, as ever, the entries will demonstrate innovation and excellence in the field of food and drink. • Visit www.observer.co.uk/foodawards to vote before the deadline of June 24.
MAY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
Shelf Life WHAT S NEW IN THE WORLD OF GREAT-TASTING FOOD
The country s first organic hot dog is hitting the shelves just in time for the start of barbecue season. Helen Browning Organics has created the 97 per cent pork, gluten-free sausage, from free-range British pigs. With a moist and meaty texture and a slightly smoked, full flavour, the hot dogs are perfect for the barbecue.
MARINADE MAGIC Add a touch of summer flavour to your dishes with Olives Et Al s Pink Mojo. The winner of a Great Taste Award, Pink Mojo is part of a new summer collection range of marinades and dressings, made with extra virgin olive oil, pink grapefruit juice, garlic, and Dijon mustard. For the more adventurous, why not try Chilli and Mint, or Beetroot and Thyme?
Fine Foodies recommends Farrington Oils has added
A SLICE OF HIGGIDY
Home-made in West Sussex, Higgidy s latest range addition promises a tasty snack on the go. The new slices come in three flavours â€’ we love the Pancetta, Red Onion and Mature Cheddar variety â€’ and all are crafted with handmade puff pastry and carefully sourced ingredients that reflect the seasons. And if you want something more substantial, Higgidy also make quiches and pies.
a new dressing to its range of Mellow Yellow cold pressed rapeseed oils. Founder Duncan Farrington felt that a British take on the family favourite Balsamic-style dressing was the next step in the range, and so created an apple balsamic vinegar, packed with garlic and balanced with basil, ideal for tomato salads and much more.
FINE FOODIES MAY/JUNE 2011
ROYAL SEAL OF APPROVAL
Denhay Bacon has received praise indeed after being granted a Royal Warrant by the Prince of Wales. The Dorset-based farm first began making traditional farmhouse cheddar back in 1959, adding hand-cured bacon to the range in 1994. The Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales is the first to be given to bacon curers, and stands for five years.
SAUCE OF SUFFOLK
Two new sauces have been developed showing off the best of Suffolk produce. Suffolk Mud has created two new products; Cyder and Horseradish Mustard and Bramley Apple Sauce, both of which include cyder from fellow county producer, Aspall.
We are what we eat
Each issue, Fine Foodies Contributing Editor, Sarah Willingham, gives her view. Here, she talks about why we need to get back to basics and stop overcomplicating our food.
few days ago I’m sat in
am to my son what a supermarket, farm
hospital in that wonderful
shop or restaurant is to me. The only
mobiles, dancing dogs, it’s all about fuel,
bubble of newborn bliss,
difference is that I am able to make
the right fuel.
feeding my fourth (and
educated purchases as a consumer and
last!) baby for the first time,
therefore provide only the best for him.
just minutes after he forced his way into the world 10 days earlier than expected.
But all of this makes me think – at what
Isn’t it wonderfully basic? Forget singing
In a very scatty moment (baby brain, I call it!) I filled our diesel engine with unleaded petrol – the wrong fuel – and
point does the responsibility shift from the
the car simply died a slow death. Minor
provider to the consumer? Right now I’m
surgery later and pumped full of the right
revelling in the magic of having grown him
both provider and consumer. As an
fuel we manage to get going again with, I
for nine months. And now here he is, just
educated consumer I am at times happy
am promised, no permanent damage.
like the three brothers and sisters before
to eat rubbish, unhealthy, processed food
him, instinctively knowing where his ‘food’
when it’s my choice and my body. But as
engine of course, but still I’m learning that if
comes from, sucking with the level of
the provider it’s a totally different story as I
you keep putting the wrong stuff in then
enthusiasm and excitement that I can only
have this overwhelming sense of
you’ll never get the best out of the machine.
get from the most indulgent of chocolate
responsibility for my tiny little boy that I
Oreo malt shakes nowadays.
want only the absolute best for him.
I’m staring at him, tiny, helpless, and
Our bodies are more robust than the Audi
During this process it strikes me just how much we have started to overcomplicate
So what makes my son any different
food. Do our children even know that a
this miracle. Here he is, my son, totally reliant
from those of us that simply know nothing
chicken kiev comes from a chicken? Or a
on me for good, nutritious food to help him
about food, who fuel without any
fish finger from a fish swimming in the sea?
grow into a big strong boy. He comes out
consideration for its content? Aren’t we all,
Everything is now so over-processed. If we
needing food, knowing where to get it from
therefore, reliant in some way on our supply
had more emphasis on the original source, I
and frankly with no idea if it’s any good or
chain to be responsible and to ‘do the right
think that consumers would understand
not. He just trusts me, his provider.
thing’? Should our supermarkets, butchers,
food far better and therefore have a much
restaurants and even Government – our
better relationship with what we use as this
I’m sat feeding him during the early hours
providers – feel and share some of this
of the morning, it dawns on me...I am the
responsibility? And do they?
Over the next few days I was reflecting on
I’ve never thought about it before but as
supply chain. I’m a new step in our already
This morning I’m chatting to my health
If you go back 1,000 years, if you couldn’t eat, pick, kill or catch it then you
complex food chain, but an important step,
visitor. She’s just come from another mum.
couldn’t eat it. Now, if it doesn’t come in
one that is filled with responsibility. My son
Her baby won’t settle, is agitated,
alphabet shapes then we won’t buy it.
needs me to make the right decisions.
demanding, generally unhappy. What’s the
Have our bodies really evolved so much
root of the problem, I ask? It’s nearly always
that we can process food that is so
the same, simple answer she says...food.
dramatically different from its original
This is how I justify my sudden, slightly obsessive relationship with nutrition. I aim for the perfect balanced diet, nothing processed,
form? We have no idea what goes into our
everything fresh and as local as possible. I look
food during this complex chain.
for organic, free range – happy plants, animals and vegetables. I start to fill my vegetable patches with seeds and seedlings in the hope
I support our wonderful farm shops who strive to bring us this food in its purest form. Since we’ve taken on our ‘extreme’
that this wonderful spring weather will bring
eating (as my husband calls it), my son is
me the produce quicker than usual. I
getting fat thighs, my husband and I are
suddenly need everything to be pure,
starting to lose ours (hurrah!) and even he
untarnished by chemicals and travel. My
is reluctantly admitting that he feels far
husband says I’m a freak – he’s probably right!
better for it. We’re taking food in its purest
But the truth is that, although clearly a
form and really, really enjoying it.
little extreme, I now eat how I wish I would
We are as good as the stuff we put into
eat when I’ve only got me to worry about.
our mouths. I just need to remember this
In my opinion, in very simplistic terms, I
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
when I only have myself to think about! FF
DISCOVER THESE PRODUCTS IN STORE NOW
In your store
A PASSION FOR PERFECTION
Caprilatte Ice Cream is regarded as the UK s No.1 Luxury Dairy Goat Milk Ice Cream. Available in over 40 sublimely seductive natural flavours that are sure to arouse even the tiredest of tastebuds. In creating this Award Winning ice cream the makers use hand-picked local produce skillfully blended with milk from their own pedigree dairy goats. Lovingly handmade in small batches; the heart of the ice cream is simple: a blend of the finest ingredients and a passion for perfection! Despite Caprilattes unashamed decadence, not all pleasures have to come with a penalty! Caprilatte is lower in fat than most ice cream & uniquely it has the added benefit of being suitable for the growing number of us with dairy intolerances. For more information visit www.caprilatte.co.uk
THE GOOD STUFF
A new all-natural range of delicious gummy sweets is hitting the shelves in the UK. Made with a revolutionary plant-based gelling agent and all-natural fruit juices, Goody Good Stuff sweets are safe for vegetarians and taste great. They are Kosher & Halal certified and come in 8 fantastic flavours including Summer Peaches and Strawberries & Cream. They are also free from gluten, dairy, soy and most other food allergens, making them a great fit for kids parties. Available at Holland & Barrett, Wholefoods Market, Booths & Planet Organic. For more information visit www.goodygoodstuff.com
Bath Soft Cheese will feature alongside the strawberries and cream at Wimbledon this year. The organic award-winning cheese made on the family dairy farm near Bath has has been selected for the hospitality catering at the World s number on Tennis event in SW19. This follows on from Bath Soft Cheese being selected for the hospitality at Royal Ascot, it s turning out to be a very social summer for the cheese. For more information visit www.parkfarm.co.uk
THE PERFECT BISCUITS FOR SPRING!
Island Bakery Organics are bakers of some the tastiest and most indulgent organic treats around. In their small bakery on the Hebridean Isle of Mull, they make a small but beautifully-formed range of organic biscuits that adorn the shelves of good delis and farm shops across the country. Their Lemon Melts are a favourite, and the bright zesty flavour is just perfect for the time of year. Thanks to the use of pure lemon oil instead of any kind of synthesised flavouring, what you get is a genuine lemon aroma that perfectly complements the generous lashings of white chocolate in which they are hand-dipped. Look out for them in your local delicatessen! For more information visit www.islandbakery.co.uk
DRINK REAL TEA
Quality tea company teapigs is on a mission to get UK tea drinkers to drink real tea . teapigs define real tea to be quality whole leaf not the dusty stuff found in most of the nation s paper teabags. When tea drinkers get to taste the flavour that quality whole leaf delivers, they experience what real tea actually tastes like. teapigs present a range of whole leaf teas and herbal infusions in individual biodegradable mesh tea temples making preparing quality whole leaf tea so much easier. Tea drinkers who want to join in can sign up to the mission. For more information visit www.teapigs.co.uk
AS COMFORTING AS AN ITALIAN GRANDMOTHER
Another new and interesting flavour from the famous artisan crispmakers Burts â€’ Pesto - in a very distinctive and retro green colour packet, is a must for anyone considering friends around for a few drinks, a party or a BBQ/Picnic during the summer ahead. With the typical Pesto flavour combining garlic, parsley & basil they are certainly tasty and with the usual quality and crunch you get from Burts they make an excellent addition to any gathering. As it says on the packet as comforting as an Italian Grandmother . Available from good quality food outlets throughout the country. For more information visit www.burtschips.com
MAY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
Scotland Haggis, shortbread and whisky may be the most closely related products we associate with Scotland, but, as Fine Foodies discovers, the country’s native cuisine has far more to offer.
cotland has some pretty distinctive foods – think
stirring the mixture as it thickens. Oats are also, of course, used in haggis.
Aberdeen Angus is arguably the bestknown breed of cattle from Scotland,
haggis and black pudding –
Considered Scotland’s national dish,
renowned for the rich and tasty flavour of
but delve a little deeper and
haggis is made from the heart, liver and
the meat. Aberdeen Angus was developed
this is a country with a hugely
lungs of a sheep, mixed with suet,
in the early part of the 19th century from
oatmeal and onion, highly seasoned and
the polled and predominantly black cattle
sewn into the sheep’s stomach. It is
of north-east Scotland.
diverse cuisine. Interestingly, French cooking has long
been an important part of Scottish cuisine
traditionally eaten with ‘bashed neeps’,
due to the two countries’ historical
which is mashed turnip, especially on
alliance with each other. The French
Burns Night (January 25) in memory of
influence was especially noticeable
the Scottish poet, Robert Burns.
during the reign of Mary, Queen of Scots,
Then there are oatcakes, unsweetened
who bought French chefs with her on her
biscuits made of oatmeal, usually eaten
return to Scotland.
with cheese, honey or marmalade.
So, what can you expect from Scotland’s most famous foods and dishes?
Scottish lamb is also renowned for being of extremely high quality. The most highly prized of all game birds is grouse which, when cooked properly is strong, dark and succulent. Ayrshire, the original Scottish bacon, is especially world famous too. Scotland has around 10 per cent of the UK pig herd. Scotland is also famed for its seafood,
If we talk about beef, then it’s likely most
with a vast array of fish, prawns, lobsters,
of us have many times sampled
mussels, oysters, crabs and scallops being
If you had to pinpoint one staple food
Scotland’s most popular meat export, the
found across the country’s coastline.
from Scotland, it would have to be oats, for
Aberdeen Angus beef.
Scotland has a particularly strong reputation
All about oats the pure fact that they are used in so many native dishes, from haggis to porridge as well as, of course, the popular oatcakes. Going back in history, oats were the
for salmon, both fresh and smoked.
Drink up If haggis is Scotland’s national dish, then
staple of agriculture in Scotland, due to the
whisky would certainly be considered its
fact that they are able to grow in harsh
climates and poor soil. In fact, it was
There are two types of whisky. The first
common to carry a small bag of oatmeal
is malt, which contains malted barley only
that could be transformed into porridge or
and has a more distinctive flavour – not to
mention a higher price – while grain
In those days, oats would be mixed with hot water to produce what was known as Brose. The traditional Scots way
whisky is made with both malted and unmalted barley. So popular is whisky that there is even
to make porridge is to soak the oats
the Scottish Malt Whisky Trail, a signposted
overnight, then boil them in the morning,
trail through the picturesque countryside
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
N Aberdeen rowie: A savoury Scottish bread roll, with a flaky texture and a buttery, salty taste. It is often toasted with jam or butter. of Speyside to seven working distilleries. There is now even a network of whisky
N Cock-a-leekie soup: Made with chicken and leeks, while Scotch broth is
embassies that operate in Scotland to
made with mutton stock and barley.
promote the understanding of malt
N Bannock: This is a bread in the form of
a flat cake, baked on a griddle, generally
made of oatmeal. N Cranachan: Made with double cream,
There are many more signature dishes
whisky, honey and topped with toasted
native to Scotland, including:
oatmeal, Cranachan is usually served with
N Black pudding: Made from a mixture of
fresh soft fruit, like raspberries. FF
congealed pigs’ blood, fat, oats, barley and a special blend of spices stuffed in a length of intestine. Each year the Scottish Federation of Meat Traders holds the Scottish Black Pudding Competition. N Stovies: Usually consisting of potatoes and onions and some form of cold meat, such as sausages, the potatoes are cooked by stewing with fat.
Supporting producers There’s clearly much passion in Scotland when it comes to promoting home-grown produce. One example is that of Food From Argyll, an organisation made up of producers from the area dedicated to bringing a taste of the West Coast of Scotland to new audiences.
Products to come from members include hill-bred beef, lamb and venison, along with fresh seafood from Argyll’s coast and sea lochs, and cheese from grass-fed dairy herds. Companies involved include Loch Fyne Oysters, Inverloch Cheese and Taste of Bute.
MaY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
UK fare Whet your appetite with a selection of mouth-watering, Scottish-inspired recipes courtesy of Loch Fyne Oysters. Loch Fyne Gravadlax Serves 4 Ingredients: • 200g sliced Loch Fyne Gravadlax • 4 shortcrust pastry tarts • 200ml crème fraiche • 20g Dijon mustard • 2 egg yolks • 1 whole egg • Salt and freshly milled black pepper • Small bunch of chopped fresh dill Method: • Heat the oven to 180ºC. Line four 8cm round tartlet moulds, leaving an overlap for shrinkage, trim after cooking, place greaseproof paper to cover the pastry and dried beans on top. • Bake blind for 8-10 minutes, remove from the oven and allow to cool, remove beans and greaseproof paper. • Mix the egg yolks and whole egg, 150ml of the crème fraiche, 10g of Dijon mustard, chopped dill, salt and pepper.
• Trim the Gravadlax slices and make into rosettes, any trimmings add to the crème fraiche mix. Fill the crème fraiche mix into the tartlets and bake for 10 minutes, check filling is set, remove from the oven and allow to cool. • Mix the remaining crème fraiche and Dijon mustard, season, place a tartlet on each plate, drizzle the crème fraiche around the plate. Finally place the rosettes of Gravadlax on the tartlet and serve.
Chef’s note: well with this.
A beetroot salad goes
Steamed Gigha Halibut with Scottish asparagus and gazpacho sauce Serves 4 Ingredients: • 4 180g Gigha Halibut fillets • Salt and freshly milled black pepper • 100ml tomato juice • 20ml sherry vinegar • 100g cucumber • 60g red onion • 30g spring onions • 80ml extra virgin rapeseed oil • 2 drops of Tabasco • Juice of ½ lime • 50g finely diced red pepper • 50g tomato concasse • 300 bunch of seasonal Scottish asparagus (May and June) • 80g chopped hazelnuts • 100g fresh white breadcrumbs • 60g melted butter Method: • Heat the oven to 160ºC. Liquidise the tomato juice, sherry vinegar, cucumber, onions, lime juice, salt and pepper, Tabasco and 80ml rapeseed oil, pass through a fine sieve, reserve. • Heat a pan of boiling salted water, prepare
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
and cook the asparagus al dente, carefully drain and cool, reserve. • Heat 30g of butter in a frying pan, brown the nuts and breadcrumbs, season, reserve. Season the halibut fillets. • Heat 30ml rapeseed oil in a non-stick pan and sear the halibut fillets four minutes each side, place on a baking sheet, top the halibut fillets with the nut mixture and put in the oven to keep warm. • To serve, heat four main course bowls, warm the asparagus spears in a pan with butter, salt and pepper, and drain. Mix the diced red pepper and tomato concasse into the gazpacho and pour into the bowls. • Place the asparagus across the gazpacho and top with the halibut, serve immediately.
A summer dish of chilled gazpacho and warm halibut, if preferred the gazpacho can be heated.
Loch Fyne Oysters with soy and ginger Serves 4 Ingredients: • 24 90/105g Loch Fyne Oysters • 50ml sweet dark soy sauce • 20g peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger • 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped • 50g red pepper, finely chopped • 100g spring onions prepared and cut on an angle • 150ml extra virgin rapeseed oil • 2 heads pak choi • Freshly milled black pepper Method: • Heat the oven to 160ºC. Place the soy sauce, garlic, red pepper, ginger and rapeseed oil in a medium pan, warm and allow to infuse, reserve warm. • Open the oysters, remove from the shell, drain off the juices and strain through a fine chinois (sieve), reserve the deep base shell, wash and dry, arrange on a baking sheet and heat through the oven. Make sure the oysters are free from any shell. • Heat a frying pan and quickly stir fry the pak choi in 25ml of the sauce infusion and some of the oyster juice, reduce over a high heat, reserve hot. • Place the oysters in the half shells and heat through in the oven for two minutes. Bring the sauce to the boil, add the spring onions, remove from the heat. • Take the oysters from the oven, arrange
six per plate, spoon the sauce over the oysters and serve with the pak choi, serve the extra sauce in a dish.
No need to use any salt in this dish – jasmine rice with sesame seed goes very well with this!
Jennifer Britt discovers why Britain excels when it comes to dairy.
ere in Britain, we should
Its Cornish Camembert is made using
be proud of all that we
authentic French cultures. Love it or find it
have on offer when it
intimidatingly pungent, either way it
comes to dairy.
provokes an opinion, while its mellow sister,
We start with the
geography of the British cheese board.
St Endellion Brie, made with Cornish cream, is always a crowd pleaser on the cheeseboard. Simon Weaver, from Upper Slaughter, on
Traditionally, Cheddar cheese was made
the edge of the Gloucestershire Cotswolds
within 30 miles of Wells Cathedral. Now
whose Cotswold Organic Dairy specialises
‘cheddar’ has gone global but the historic
in Brie, is helping to preserve cheese-
link with the west of England is preserved
making right on the farm.
through a European Union Protected
“Every day our milk travels just five
Designation of Origin (PDO). This means
metres from the milking shed to the
that cheeses eligible to use the ‘West
creamery,” he says.
Country farmhouse Cheddar’ name must
At Smart’s Farm on the edge of the
be handmade and cheddared – the unique
Forest of Dean, they still make both Double
process of turning and stacking the curds –
and the lesser-known Single Gloucester
from the milk of cows who graze the
from old family recipes; the Double from a
luscious pastures of Somerset, Devon,
double serving of full fat milk from both
Dorset or Cornwall.
morning and evening milkings, and the
Among those farmhouse cheesemakers
Single from full fat from the morning
is Longman, fourth generation farmers from
milking, and skimmed from the evening.
North Cadbury, near Yeovil, with their
Double is matured for several months,
evocatively named Vale of Camelot brand.
while the Single is eaten young after only a
Thirty miles away, the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company has the distinction of
producing the “only Cheddar made in
Cheddar” using unpasteurised milk from
While the Home Counties have no big
herds on local farms. Some truckles are
territorial cheese varieties, they do have
carried, wrapped in muslin, into the caves of
their fair share of artisan cheesemakers,
Cheddar Gorge to mature, produce a rind
such as the Two Hoots Cheese Company of
and to develop complexity of flavour.
Barkham, near Wokingham, Berkshire. It
West Country producers have also taken
specialises in blue cheese made from either
a leaf from the French soft cheese recipe
a blend of Guernsey and Jersey cow’s milk
book, as is the case at Trevarrian Creamery.
or ewe’s milk.
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
Barkham Blue has earned a shelf-full of rosettes and silverware over the years, including Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards. Deep in Sussex, the High Weald Dairy, near Haywards Heath, produces a semi-hard cheese, St Giles, named after the local parish church, in the style of a French St Paulin or Port Salut. It took gold at the British Cheese Awards last year.
The North Cistercian monks started making cheese in Wensleydale in the 12th century. The 1990s nearly saw an end to this grand Yorkshire tradition but triumph was snatched from disaster when the Wensleydale Creamery was saved from extinction. Wensleydale Creamery is now flourishing, with a little help from distinguished fans, Wallace & Gromit. It expects to soon hear the result of its application for a PDO protected food status for Real Yorkshire Wensleydale Cheese. Over in Lancashire, there is not just one cheese bearing the county name, but three. Creamy and Tasty are made with the curd from several days milking. Tasty Lancashire is matured for longer, giving it a stronger taste. The more modern Crumbly Lancashire uses a single day s milk and is eaten young. Carron Lodge, at Inglewhite, near Preston, also produces blue cheeses, including Lancashire Blue and Brock Blue. Handmade in small batches, they are matured in a man-made cave on the farm. A new English creamy goats cheese from the Delamere Dairy is fostering crossPennine co-operation rather than rivalry. It uses the milk of herds from both Yorkshire
â€œThe English Midlands have a rich cheese heritage of proud and famous names; Derby, Red Leicester and the king of cheeses, Stilton.â€?
and Lancashire. Until the 19th century, Cheshire was a matured, harder cheese unlike the crumbly versions popular today. H.S.Bourne of Malpas make Cheshire cheese in the old style and Mrs Bourne s Mature has a fine full flavour.
Midlands The English Midlands have a rich cheese heritage of proud and famous names; Derby, Red Leicester and the king of cheeses, Stilton. Ironically, it is no longer legally permitted to make Stilton cheese in the village that
MAY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
Food focus gave it its name, Stilton, in
Caws Cenarth, in
Huntingdon. That right is
Carmarthenshire, makes a
reserved for the counties of
Caerffili following methods
Derbyshire, Leicestershire and
handed down by both
grandmothers of cheesemaker
Quenby Hall, a Leicestershire stately home, claims to have
Carwyn Adams. But this artisanal producer
first produced Stilton as we
has developed a whole range
know it in England s first
of stylish cheeses, the latest
purpose-built dairy in the
being a soft rind Golden
1700s. The modern Quenby
Cenarth, which was Supreme
Hall Dairy has won awards
Champion in the British Cheese
galore since the estate s current
Awards last year.
owner, Freddie de Lisle, revived cheese-making in 2005. Shropshire may be dwarfed
Scotland Traditional Scottish cheese-
in the recognition stakes by
making was shaped by having
more famous cheese names
an abundance of milk in the
but not in the passion of the
short spring and summer
months, which was preserved
Mr Moyden s Handmade Cheeses are made on the family farm at Church Aston near the
into hard cheeses for long storage. Modern temperature control
market town of Newport. The
has encouraged more variety
British Friesian herd chews the
from today s crop of Scottish
clover-rich cud on the farm and
on the Caer Caradoc hill, which
The range from the Connage
dominates the countryside
Highland Dairy, situated on an
organic family farm at Ardersier
Shropshire is a fantastic
near Inverness, includes award-
county with pastureland rich in
winners Connage Dunlop
a whole variety of grasses, says
Scottish Cheddar, Clava Brie
farmer Michael Moyden, who
and a Crowdie, the soft cheese
took four years to perfect the
that the Vikings brought to
recipe for his semi-soft Wrekin
Blue, a champion in last year s Heart of England diamond
For much of the 20th century,
Ian Eyres, of the Shropshire
Irish cheese was mainly
Cheese Company, is also ardent
industrial quantities of Cheddar,
about cheeses imbued with the
but then came a revival of
flavour of the deep, deep,
green grass of the borderlands
Among those inspired was
and the Welsh foothills.
former cheese grader and beef
Marches Blue, balanced
farmer Damian McCloskey and
between the creaminess and a
his wife Susan, of Loughgiel,
piquant blue flavour, is his
near Ballymena in County
Antrim. Their Castlequarter
Cheddar-style is made with milk from farms along the
Talk about Wales and cheese
Northern Irish coast. They also
and you head straight for
have a flavoured selection,
Caerphilly, for its salty, crumbly
including Coolkeeran, made
texture, with a slightly sour tang
with dulse seaweed from
Strangford Loch. FF
FINE FOODIES MAY/JUNE 2011
Cool classics Ice cream comes in endless varieties, but there s no beating the old favourites.
It s simply delicious and it goes with everything, but best of all it goes by itself. TRY: Daisy s Clotted Cream Vanilla made on Hackthorne Farm, where the cows have a view of the sea on the north Cornish coast.
Well, what s not to like? TRY: Made Fair Organic Chocolate from Scottish Cream O Galloway. They wanted to make a sweet chocolate, not too dark and without a trace of bitterness . The chocolate and sugar are Fairtrade.
It can be both zingy as a water ice or sorbet, and scrumptious when you add in some cream. TRY: Duchy Originals Lemon Curd, made with whipping cream and oodles of lovely lemon preserve.
Luxuriate in the taste of English summer all year round. TRY: Moocluck Strawberry made with milk, cream and free-range egg yolks but with less than 100 calories per 100ml serving, a new product from young food entrepreneur Tom Lock. For a sweeter tooth, Simply Ice Cream do a Sublime Strawberry made with Kentish strawberries.
A staple of many a British childhood, this popular family dessert is making a comeback with creamier, fruitier and allnatural versions. TRY: Purbeck Raspberry Ripple from a Dorset ice cream maker. There is now a Banoffee Ripple variant, banana ice cream with ripples of dolce de leche toffee sauce. Also new and for the really adventurous is one of Purbeck s funkier flavours, Beetroot and Horseradish, delicious either sweet with chocolate, or savoury with roast beef!
A wonderful instant evocation of nursery teatimes but in a very grown-up way. TRY: September Dairy Brown Bread from a Herefordshire ice cream maker, which points out that as it s not Italian or American, it doesn t go in for tutti frutti or cookie dough but it does do Elderflower Cream and Blackberry & Apple Crumble!
Subtle and sophisticated... just perfect really. TRY: Pistachio and Almond from Nottinghamshire ice cream people Thaymar for a double nutty treat.
Gracing our TV screens every Saturday, James Martin has become one of the nation’s best-loved chefs. Here, he opens up about his early influences in the kitchen, and why home cooking still wins out.
BC’s Saturday Kitchen has undoubtedly made James
me fall in love with cooking,” he recalls. “None of my family were chefs, just
Martin a household name,
great home cooks, using fresh ingredients
and earned him an army of
from the farm and veg plot where I
fans, young and old.
But the Yorkshireman has actually been
It is clear that this home-cooked,
a top chef for many years, having first
family ethos has stayed with him through
been inspired with a career in the kitchen
at the tender age of eight. Years later, he
“I would love to have learnt and
“I don’t get to see them all as much as I would like so it would be Sunday lunch with the entire family round.” Today, James is best known for presenting BBC’s Saturday Kitchen show, but what would he consider his signature dish? “I don’t really have one but I suppose all who watch the show know I like my
was introduced to the chef world by
cooked more with my late grandmother –
butter,” he admitted. “So my white
Anthony Worrall Thompson, before
her pastry was the best I have ever tasted,”
chocolate and whisky croissant butter
heading to France to hone his trade. At
pudding would be it if there were one.”
just the age of 21, he was Head Chef at
“She used her hands to make
In a few weeks, James will be heading
the opening of the Hotel and Bistro du Vin
everything and spent hours rubbing
up the Summer Kitchen, at BBC Good
in Winchester, and most recently he has
butter and flour together to make the
Food Show Summer, held at
opened his own venture, Leeds Kitchen.
perfect tasting pastry when she baked.”
first appeared on Ready, Steady, Cook, and
and good food is one of the joys of doing
his star has continued to rise ever since,
While James has worked with some of
a live demo,” he says by way of
both on our TV screens, including a stint
the finest chefs and in some of the top
explanation. “The live on stage show is
on Strictly Come Dancing, and as author
restaurants, he still prefers to go back to
always busy and it’s great to meet people
of a number of books.
who watch Saturday Kitchen and get any
His TV career began in 1996, when he
As James gears up for his appearance
“I always think the best meals are not in
at the forthcoming BBC Good Food Show
restaurants or Michelin star meals, they are
Summer on June 15 to 19, he talks us
when all your family sit round the table
through his passion for good food, his
and enjoy good honest food,” he admitted.
love of home-cooking and why eating at fancy restaurants isn’t everything.
Early inspiration James discovered a love of cooking from an early age, and even back then his passion was for simple, unadulterated food. “I started from about eight years old and it was being surrounded by amazing cooks like my Gran and Mother that really made
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
“None of my family were chefs, just great home cooks, using fresh ingredients from the farm and veg plot where I grew up.”
“Getting to show people quick, easy
hints and tips from them.” The show also combines BBC Gardeners’ World, something James believes is important – after all, how can we know how to cook well if we don’t know where the ingredients come from? “I love gardening so to me food and gardening is even better, as to understand great food you have to understand where it comes from,” he said. “As well as great small suppliers dotted around the show there is always a gardener near by to tell you how to do stuff right. God knows I need it sometimes.” FF
Visit BBC Good Food Show Summer Fine Foodies has teamed up with the people at BBC Good Food Show Summer to offer our readers the chance to visit for free. We have three pairs of tickets to give away for the show, which takes place from June 15 to 19 at Birmingham s NEC. And it s well worth a visit; not only will James Martin be on hand, hosting Saturday Kitchen Live sessions in the Summer Kitchen, the team from Masterchef will also be on hand to cook up a storm. This includes presenters John Torode and Greg Wallace, along with last year s winner Dhruv Baker, who will all be appearing within the Masterchef Experience. Other names confirmed to appear include presenter and author Rachel Allen, Something for the Weekend s Simon Rimmer and dessert expert, Mary Berry. To enter the competition to win the tickets, email email@example.com. Competition closes on June 1. â€˘ Find out more about the show by logging onto www.bbcgoodfoodshow.com
MAY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
Spring is here and it s time to rekindle our affection for rhubarb.
espite being widely used in desserts, rhubarb is
fruit from around the world. Rhubarb is an excellent crop to grow
through creamy yoghurt for a quick dessert.
actually a vegetable,
in Britain, enjoying cool climates and
being a member of the
suffering very few pests. It also packs a
pudding? You re in for a treat as its
polygonaceae family and
flavoursome punch at the table. Rhubarb
sharpness also works beautifully
makes a comforting, traditional pudding
with meat and fish. Try serving Jane
topped with crumble mixture and rolled
Baxter s simple Rhubarb Butter Sauce
and through most of the 20th century, but
oats. Later in the season, throw in a few
with an organic salmon fillet. You can
suffered along with many of Britain s
handfuls of strawberries, too, custard
find more recipes and tips on preparing
homegrown, traditional vegetables as
essential! Or make the most of its vibrant
seasonal veg on Riverford s website
supermarkets began to sell out-of-season
colour by swirling stewed rhubarb
related to sorrel.
Rhubarb was popular in Victorian times
FINE FOODIES MAY/JUNE 2011
Think rhubarb s only good for
Recipes by Jane Baxter, taken from the Riverford Farm Cook Book.
Rhubarb and strawberry crumble Serves 4 Ingredients: • 2-4 rhubarb stalks, cut into slices 2cm thick • 1 punnet strawberries, hulls removed, large ones cut in half • 165g plain flour • 50g soft light brown sugar • 150g rolled oats • 125g unsalted butter Method: • Place the rhubarb in a deep pie dish. Toss the strawberries with a tablespoon of the flour and add to the rhubarb. Sprinkle half the sugar on top. • Put the oats, butter and remaining sugar and flour in a food processor and pulse until the mixture starts to come together. • Spread the crumble over the fruit and bake in an oven preheated to 180° C/Gas Mark 4 for 35 to 40 minutes, until the rhubarb is tender and the crumble is browned. Serve with clotted cream.
Rhubarb butter sauce for fish Serves 6-8
Method: • Put the rhubarb, sugar, orange juice and zest in a pan and cook gently for about 15 minutes, until the rhubarb has broken
down into a purée.
• 500g rhubarb, cut into batons
• Meanwhile, in a separate pan, boil the
• 2tsp sugar
fish stock until volume is reduced by half.
• Juice and grated zest of one orange
Stir in the rhubarb, season and cook for
• 150ml fish stock
five minutes, then push through a sieve
• 40g chilled butter, cut into
into a clean pan.
small pieces • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Just before serving, heat the sauce and whisk in the pieces of butter a few at a time to give a glossy finish. Season to taste.
MAY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
Home-grown goodness Cook up a feast using your very own produce in season this summer, with help from The Allotment Cookbook Through the Year.
Sweetcorn fritters with tomato salsa Home-grown sweetcorn is so tender that there is no need to cook it before making these fritters. The generous flavours used here will turn your cobs into something the whole family will enjoy. Serves 4 (makes 14-16 fritters) Prep: 20 minutes Cooking: 10 minutes Ingredients: • 2 sweetcorn cobs, around 250g (9oz) • 100g (3 ½oz) self-raising flour • 1tsp baking powder • 2 large eggs • 4tbsp milk • 1tsp smoked paprika • 2 spring onions, finely chopped, green and white parts separated • 4tbsp chopped coriander • 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (optional) • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper • 2tbsp sunflower oil • 2 ripe tomatoes, skinned and roughly chopped • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil • Dash of tabasco or chilli sauce
FINE FOODIES MAY/JUNE 2011
Method: • Hold the corn upright on a chopping board and, using a sharp knife, cut downwards to shear off the kernels from the husk. • Sift the flour and baking powder into a bowl. Mix the eggs and milk together in a jug, and then gradually whisk them into the flour to make a thick batter. Add the corn, paprika, the white parts of the spring onions, 2tbsp of the coriander, and the chilli (if using). Mix well and season. • Heat the sunflower oil in a large frying pan and add the batter mixture in tablespoonfuls. Use the back of the spoon to spread the fritters out slightly, and fry for two to three minutes on
each side until puffed up and golden brown. Batch fry until all the mixture is cooked, adding a little more sunflower oil as necessary. • Put the tomatoes, the remaining coriander and spring onion, olive oil, and tabasco or chilli sauce into a food processor or blender, and process until blended but still quite chunky. Check the salsa for seasoning and serve the hot fritters with the salsa on the side.
When to pick: Pick sweetcorn when the silky tassels at the top of the plant are withering and brown. Ripe kernels should produce a milky white liquid when pressed. Eat and store fresh. Eat sweetcorn as soon as possible after picking. If you must store it, keep the outer husk intact, and it will stay fresh for two to three days in the fridge. How to preserve: Sweetcorn can be used in chutneys, pickles, and relishes. Freezing options: Cut the sweetcorn off the cob with a sharp knife and blanch for two minutes, then cool and freeze for up to 12 months.
Grilled red bream with tomato and coriander salad This Indian-style fish dish is quick to prepare and cook, making it ideal for entertaining. It can also be made using fillets of sea bass, John Dory, or any other firm, meaty fish. Serves 4 Prep: 15 minutes Cooking: 6-8 minutes Ingredients: • 4 red bream fillets, about 150g (5½oz) each • Lemon wedges, to serve
For the spice rub: • 3tbsp walnut or extra virgin olive oil • 4tbsp chopped coriander • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 1tsp coriander seeds, crushed • 1tsp lemon juice • 1 small green chilli, very finely chopped For the tomato salad: • 4 plum tomatoes, chopped • 1tbsp chopped coriander • 1½ tsp walnut or extra virgin olive oil • 1tbsp walnuts • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method: • Mix together all the ingredients for the spice rub and season with salt. • Line a baking sheet with foil and place the fish fillets on it, skin-side down. Brush the spice rub over the fish. • Place under a hot grill for six to eight minutes, until cooked through and lightly golden. Remove from the heat and keep warm. • Meanwhile, toast the walnuts in a dry frying pan, then lightly crush them, and mix with the rest of the ingredients for the tomato salad. Serve the fish with the salad and some lemon wedges.
MaY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
Blackberry brioche This is the ultimate in fast desserts, yet it looks impressive and is incredibly tasty. It is pleasing to think that an afternoon s blackberry picking can give such rewarding results. Serves 4 Prep: 5 minutes Cooking: 10 minutes Ingredients: • 50g (1 3⁄4oz) butter • 50g (1 3⁄4oz) caster sugar • 400g (14oz) blackberries • 4-8 slices of brioche • 200g (7oz) mascarpone cheese
Method: • Melt the butter in a frying pan. Add the sugar and allow it to melt and start to turn golden brown, shaking the pan to dissolve the sugar. • Add the blackberries to the pan and allow them to cook over high heat for two to three minutes, until they are heated through and softened, but have not broken up. Leave the berries to cool slightly while you toast the slices of brioche. • Thickly spread the mascarpone over the slices of toasted brioche and top with the sugary, fried berries. Spoon over any excess juice that is left in the pan and serve with mascarpone.
When to pick: Pick blackberries when the fruits are dark purple, glossy, and sweet to taste. Slightly under-ripe berries are better for making jam. Eat and store fresh if eating raw, use blackberries within two days of picking and eat at room temperature. If cooking, they will keep for up to three days in the fridge before using. How to preserve: Preserve blackberries in jams or jellies. Wild blackberries are often woody, and are better made into jelly. They can also be used in chutneys and fruit cheeses. Freezing options: Open freezer whole on trays, as a cooked or uncooked purée, as a freezer jam or blanched or poached in sugar syrup.
The Allotment Cookbook Through the Year, by Caroline Bretherton, is published by DK, £16.99, Available from all good bookshops and from www.dk.com
FINE FOODIES MAY/JUNE 2011
NEW FROM UNCLE ROY
Uncle Roy s latest quality food offering â€’ Single Estate Extra Virgin Cold Pressed Mustard Seed Oils (Light & Nutty and Spicy) are the tastiest and healthiest culinary oils available. With the lowest saturated fat content, highest Omega 3 content and a perfect Omega 3:6:9 ratio, these GMO-free and Erucic Acid-free oils also have a very long shelf life and fantastic flavour. Both Gold Great Taste Awardwinning varieties are good for dipping, drizzling, dressings and baking â€’ and with a high smoke point they are great for shallow, stir and deep frying too! For more information visit www.uncleroys.co.uk
Commitment to quality
Delicious soups, mouth watering sauces, pestos and rice puddings. Organic food of the best quality, with no additives or preservatives, low in salt and gluten-free. With customers including major multiples, national coffee chains and independents nationwide, Tideford s commitment to quality has won them over 40 major awards from around the country, including Organic Product of the Year, numerous Gold Awards from the Guild of Fine Foods and Soil Association Pudding of the Year to name but a few. Their latest innovation is the development of a unique single-serve microwaveable soup. Ready to eat in 2 minutes and available in six mouth-watering flavours. For more information please contact Lynette Sinclair on 01803 840555. For more information visit www.tidefordorganics.com
CELEBRATING 25 YEARS
Village Dairy has just celebrated 25 years of making the finest yogurt.A family concern using only the finest quality ingredients. Over 20 different lines and at moment innovating a different concept to the yogurt market. For more information visit www.villagedairy.co.uk
MAY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
Fish feast C J Jackson shows us how to cook using some of the most sustainable fish and seafood.
Thai crab cakes These make a delicious starter, or transform into a main course with rice noodles. The fish: White crab meat, or salmon Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus chilling Cook: 5-10 minutes Makes 20 Ingredients: • 500g (1lb 2oz) white crab meat • 115g (4oz) green beans, trimmed and finely chopped • 1 green or red chilli, deseeded and very finely chopped
FINE FOODIES MAY/JUNE 2011
The crab cakes can be assembled, covered, and chilled up to one day ahead. The flavours will deepen. Return them to room temperature before continuing.
• 1tsp lemongrass purée • Finely grated zest of 1 lime • 1tbsp Thai fish sauce • 1tbsp finely chopped Chinese chives or garlic chives • 1 egg white, lightly beaten • Plain flour, to dust • Vegetable oil, for deep-frying • Lime wedges, to serve Method: • Flake the crab meat into a bowl, picking it over carefully to remove any small, sharp pieces of shell. Mix in the green beans, chilli,
lemongrass purée, lime zest, fish sauce, and chives. • Add the egg white, stirring to bind the mixture together. Dust your hands with flour and shape the mixture into 20 small balls. Flatten them slightly into round cakes, place on a plate or board, spaced slightly apart so they don t stick together, and chill for one hour, or until firm. • Heat the oil to 160° C (325° F) in a large pan or deep-fat fryer. Dust the cakes with flour and deep-fry them in batches for three minutes, or until golden. Drain on a plate lined with kitchen paper and serve with lime wedges.
This Spanish rice dish has many regional variations. This marinera version contains a delicious mix of seafood. The fish: Tiger prawns, squid, Dublin Bay prawns, cockles, or any mixed seafood Preparation time: 10 minutes Cook: 30 minutes Serves 4 Ingredients: • 1.2 litres (2 pints) hot fish stock • Large pinch of saffron threads • 2tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 2 large tomatoes, skinned and diced • 12 raw tiger prawns, peeled and deveined • 225g (8oz) squid, gutted, cleaned, and sliced into rings • 400g (14oz) paella rice • 85g (3oz) peas • 4 Dublin Bay prawns, or very large raw tiger prawns • 12-16 mussels, prepared • 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish
Method: • Pour a little of the hot stock into a jug, add the saffron, and set aside. Heat the oil in a large frying or paella pan, and fry the onion and garlic until softened. Add the tomatoes, cook for two minutes, then add the king prawns and squid for one to two minutes. • Stir in the rice, saffron liquid, peas, and 900ml (11⁄2 pints) of stock. Simmer, uncovered, without stirring, over a low heat for 12-14 minutes, or until the stock has evaporated and the rice is just tender, adding extra stock if necessary. • Meanwhile, cook the Dublin Bay prawns in 150ml (5fl oz) simmering stock for three to four minutes, or until cooked through. Transfer to a warm plate with a slotted spoon. Tap the
mussels and discard any that do not close. Add the mussels to the stock, cover, and cook over a high heat for two to three minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, discarding any that have not opened. • Reserve eight mussels for garnish. Remove the rest from their shells and stir into the paella. Arrange the reserved mussels and Dublin Bay prawns on top, and garnish with parsley.
MAY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
Deep-fried haddock in beer batter Skin on or off is down to personal taste, though purists say it should be removed. The fish: Haddock, or any white fish, such as cod, pollock, coley, tilapia, or smoked haddock (a revelation). Preparation time: 10 minutes Cook: 7-10 minutes Serves 4 Ingredients: • Oil for deep-frying • 4 haddock fillets, about 175-225g (6-8oz) each, pinboned and skinned • 4tbsp seasoned flour
FINE FOODIES MAY/JUNE 2011
For the batter: • 115g (4oz) plain flour • 1tsp baking powder • ½tsp salt • 250-300ml (8-10fl oz) pale ale • Salt and freshly ground black pepper Method: • Sift the plain flour, baking powder, and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add half the ale. Gradually stir in the flour so the batter remains smooth. As it thickens, blend in more ale until the batter is the consistency of single cream, and season. • Heat the oil to 180° C (350° F) in a large pan or deep-fat fryer. Dust the fish with seasoned
flour. Using tongs, lower the fish into the batter to coat completely, then lift out and let any excess drip back into the bowl. Swish the fish through the hot oil to allow the batter to start to set, then let the fish go. • Fry for seven to 10 minutes or until the batter is golden brown. Lift the fish on to kitchen paper and sprinkle with salt. Serve with chips and tartare sauce.
Fish Cookbook, by CJ Jackson, is published by DK, £20, Available from all good bookshops and from www.dk.com from May 1.
Lindy Wildsmith takes us on a journey through her love of Italian food.
verybody the world over
out of the Mediterranean, as do the
loves eating Italian; there are
Western coastal regions. The Eastern
communities of Italians and
regions, meanwhile, dip their toes in the
Adriatic and strings of enchanting islands
restaurants, wherever you go.
thread both shores. Lakes punctuate and
Pizza, pasta, prosciutto, Parmesan,
streams criss-cross the country, therefore
pecorino, pesto, mascarpone, mozzarella,
assuring abundant seafood, salt water and
ricotta and risotto are as familiar around
freshwater fish everywhere.
the world as they are to the Italians. However, this is only the tip of their
Italy is, culturally, a rich and diverse
Eating in Italy is a constant source of
country; it has seen invasions from land
surprise and delight, for the food changes
and sea from all points of the compass,
according to where you are; every hamlet,
peoples bringing with them not only their
village, valley, town, city and region has its
cultures but also their food.
own specialities and as if this were not
All of this has influenced not only the
enough it also changes with the seasons,
knew nothing – there was not a dish on it
Italian people but the diversity of the
creating a dynamic landscape of food to
that I recognised.
buona tavola, or good food.
An Italian journey
Italy divides itself into North and South,
Since that far-off year in Bologna, I lived
geographically, politically and culturally.
in Rome for many years and travelled
Agriculturally speaking the former is, on
extensively the length and breadth of the
Over 30 years ago, I went to Bologna, in
the whole, a rich land, and the latter poor.
peninsula and I am still discovering new
Italy, where I lived for a year. I was
This translates in culinary terms as plenty
dishes, new produce and new attitudes to
fortunate to live with Tina Monetti, who
of meat of all kinds and dairy produce
was a wonderful cook – she rolled a
bolstered by pasta, beans and vegetables
Much is vaunted these days about
sfoglia (home-made egg pasta) nearly
in the North, and vegetables, cereals and
seasonal local produce but compared to
every day and on high days and holidays
legumes enhanced with extra virgin olive
Italy, we can barely pay lip service to the
she folded and stuffed tiny tortellini by
oil, fragrant herbs, copious amounts of
concept. Every city and small town in Italy
the score to serve, as was traditional “in
innovation and small amounts of meat
has its street market that brings the smell
brodo”. Her meat sauces bubbled on the
such as lamb and goat in the South.
and freshness of the country to its streets
stove for hours on end, she concocted
The country is further divided into
and squares. Street after street of stall after
roasts layered with vegetables, and
regions; from the mountainous areas in
stall, after stall sells the same ultra-fresh
omelettes and salumi, she boned and
the North such as land-locked Trentino
produce, still adorned with the morning
stuffed chickens and pan-fried fennel with
Alto Adige, where winters are cold, to the
dew, heavy with just-picked fragrance.
southernmost sunny Calabria in the toe.
The stallholders come from outside of
Each region has its valleys and gentle
town, from a belt of smallholdings, neat
later I thought I knew everything there
hillsides providing micro-climates and
patchworks of green stitched earth bright
was to know about Italian food. Not so! A
wonderful and often unique produce. The
with every variety of salad leaf and
first glance at a menu swiftly told me I
stately islands of Sardinia and Sicily rise
vegetable, some of which are unique to
By the time I moved to Rome a year
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
that area. This means that the produce is
The choice of produce that is on offer is
literally picked hours before it is sold. Often
further extended by the many varieties
Seasonality is not just about fruit and
stallholders and growers are one and the
that are commonly grown and come and
vegetables. The Italian respects the
same – no middleman or wholesaler
go, according to the time of year. In the
seasons of the sea as well. Go to Sicily in
involved and certainly very few food miles.
Rialto markets in Venice in spring,
spring and you will find it is the Riccio
stallholders sit all day from early morning,
season; time for sea-urchins and every
design that is Italian food – the wild
laboriously preparing barrel loads of little
restaurant has them on the menu, either
mushrooms of autumn and winter, the
purple artichokes to sell, ready for the pot,
to eat like a boiled egg with a spoon or
fresh herbs and flowers of spring and
and you can be sure every Venetian eatery
taken out of their shells and their silky flesh
summer, the white and black truffles. Go
will have them on the menu.
spooned through pasta – love them or
Nature also plays its part in the grand
to Sicily in spring and you will be
Francesco Mazzei, well-known London-
loathe them you can’t avoid them but
enchanted by the long tender strands of
based Italian chef of the L’Anima
come back any other time of year and
wild asparagus that pop up on every
restaurant, sums Italian food up like this: “It
you’d be hard pressed to find them.
menu – go in early summer and they will
is versatile, you can eat it everyday, and it is
have gone to ground, not to be seen
affordable to everyone...if you follow the
crawling all over each other in a market in
again for another year.
seasons, of course.”
Padua more than 30 years ago, and it was
I discovered delicious soft-shelled crabs
MaY/JUNE 2011 FINE FOODIES
Global foodie not until years later that I happened to be back at just the right time of year to enjoy them again. Take the food of Royal Piedmont, the land of truffles with everything, from fried eggs and fondue to risottos and steak tartare. There are cardi – cardoons, bollito misto – mixed boiled meats beyond your wildest dreams, stews braised in Barolo wine, and game cooked to perfection. The bagna caöda, a walnut oil-based fondue heavily impregnated with garlic and anchovy, is used for dipping the cardi and other vegetables typical of the area. It is also the home of genteel biscuits such as baci di dama and savoiardi, the luscious gianduia cake and zabaione. Moving directly south we find ourselves in forever-spring Liguria, a mountainous region that stretches along the coast from the French Riviera, renowned for its fine climate, early flowers, delicate olive oil, fragrant basil, herbs, abundant vegetables and wild mushrooms. The sea there is teeming with seafood and fish but there is little in the way of meat, except rabbits and chickens – although rabbits and chickens cooked to perfection. Here they waste nothing. Melt-in-themouth tarts sold by the slice are filled with greens, herbs and pine nuts, golden focaccia bread is anointed with oil and rosemary, the pissadella, a distinctive pizza unique to the town of Oneglia, is sparsely spread with tomato, anchovy and onion, and trenette (thin tagliatelle) is coated in pesto. Ravioli are filled with herbs, left-over fish and vegetables. Then there are the myriad fish and vegetable antipasti, the fish stews known as brodetti, the stock fish and salt cod dishes and the triumphant U Cappun Magru, a salad of fish and vegetables. Now let’s travel to Puglia, the sun-dried
Then there is a plethora of handmade
roasted al cartoccio with olives and the
heel of Italy, queen of antipasti consisting
pasta shapes such as cavatieddi and
local onion variety lampasciuoli, lamb with
of all kinds of cured meats such as
orecchiette dressed in the magical oil of
peas, sweet and sour lamb and simple
capocollo from Martina Franca, cheeses to
the region, tossed with greens and
chargrilled lamb chops. Almonds provide
dream of from Gioia del Colle, mozzarellas
vegetables, with fat mussels, tender squid
exquisite speciality cakes and biscuits.
so soft and creamy you just want to dive
and flavourful black octopus sauces.
into them, vegetables preserved in oil, and
When, and if, you should tire of the
This is just a small helping of what the Italian regions have to offer and the charm
sweet oregano from the Gargano, torte
abundant fish that is available, the pasture
is that you can go back over and over
rustiche farmhouse pies, oysters,
land of Puglia provides ample lamb and
again and still find something new,
tantalising fish and vegetable dishes, all
the resourceful cook umpteen ways of
something you never knew existed, and
served with glorious bread.
cooking it – lamb hunter’s style, lamb
something to set your palate dancing. FF
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
IT'S ALWAYS GREAT TO HEAR WHAT YOU THINK. HE BRANTD MA AZNEW IN FOR G LOVERES OF GOO FOOD D
Whether you want to comment on a specific article or feature, perhaps you love a particular product or maybe you just want to shout about your local fine food store - we would love to hear from you. Telephone 01279 810080 or e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org.
W W W . F I N E F O O D I E S M A G . CO M Follow us on twitter: @finefoodies
Recipes Rainbow trout, leaf and berry salad This is how Trentino chef Rinaldo Dalsasso serves his home-cured smoked trout. If you don t smoke your own, buy a side of cold-smoked trout or salmon and slice it
Roselline del Pilastro al Francesco – rolled pork fillet with Parma ham and sage
paper thin yourself. Perfect
This is a great recipe to impress family and
for summer eating!
friends. It can be prepared in advance to the stage of adding the stock and finished when
ready to serve ‒ speciality of the
• 200g cold smoked rainbow
Masticabrodo restaurant near Parma.
trout, cut into 5mm slices • 120g sweet salad leaves
• Handful of rocket leaves
• 4 sage sprigs
open out flat to make a single slice of meat.
• Handful of small strawberries
• 2 thyme sprigs
• Sprinkle with some of the Parmesan cheese
• 2 rosemary sprigs
and freshly ground black pepper, lay a slice of
• 2 garlic cloves
Parma ham on the top of each, sprinkle with
olive oil (preferably from
• 100ml extra virgin olive oil
Parmesan cheese and black pepper and put a
• 2 pork tenderloins
sage leaf on top. Roll each piece of pork up, dip
• 100g Parmesan cheese, grated
in seasoned flour and shake off the excess and
• 4 slices Parma ham
then secure with cocktail sticks.
• Plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper
• Heat a frying pan, and when hot add some of
• 100ml cognac
the infused oil and the rolls of meat and brown
and or raspberries • 3 tablespoons extra virgin
• Few drops of good quality balsamic vinegar • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 150ml stock
quickly all over. Add the cognac and cook until
• 200ml double cream
evaporated, then add the remaining oil, herbs
• Divide the smoked trout
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
and garlic and stock. Reduce the heat and cook
slices between four serving
• Equipment: 8 cocktail sticks
for seven minutes.
plates and a grinding of black
• Transfer the meat to a dish to rest. Top each roll
pepper over all.
with a sage leaf. Pull out the cocktail sticks and
• Combine the salad leaves
• Put two sage sprigs and the other herbs and
discard. Add the cream, if using, to the pan and
and berries in a salad bowl.
garlic in a shallow dish and cover with olive oil.
simmer gently for five minutes. Strain and serve
Add the olive oil and balsamic
Leave to infuse in a warm place in the kitchen for
poured over the meat. Serve with mashed celeriac.
vinegar, season with salt and
an hour or so.
black pepper and toss lightly.
• Trim and then cut the pork tenderloins in half,
Arrange alongside the smoked
discarding the ragged ends, creating four equal
trout and serve at once.
portions. Cut each tenderloin piece through the middle lengthways, but do not cut into two ‒
FINE FOODIES MAY/JUNE 2011
Recipes from Lindy Wildsmith s latest book, Cured: salted, spiced, dried, smoked, potted, pickled, raw, shortlisted for the Andre Simon Award. Photographer Simon Wheeler. Jacqui Small publishing (£30).
THE GRAIN & THE GRAPE 50MLS VALT VODKA 25MLS PINOT GRIGIO 25MLS PRESS APPLE JUICE BAR SPOON OF SUGAR SYRUP OR LAVENDER SYRUP Add all the ingredients into a boston and shake well. Strain into a collins glass. Top up with crushed ice and garnish with green and red grapes.
STRAWBERRY AND SAGE MARTINI 35MLS VALT VODKA 3 SPRIGS SAGE 3 STRAWBERRIES 1/2 BAR SPOON ROSE SYRUP 50MLS PRESSED APPLE JUICE DASH OF SUGAR SYRUP
CUCUMBER & ELDERFLOWER FIZZ 35MLS VALT VODKA 3 RINDS OF CUCUMBER DASH OF ELDERFLOWER CORDIAL DASH OF LYCHEE JUICE
Muddle Sage and Strawberries into a boston glass, add all the other ingredients and shake well. Double strain into a martini glass and garnish with a strawberry slice and Sage leaf.
Muddle the cucumber rind, valt vodka, elderflower cordial and lychee juice in a boston glass and shake well. Strain into a chilled flute glass and top up with champagne. Garnish with a slice of cucumber. Splash Champagne.
Valt is available from Bibendum spirits, Gordon and McPhail, Stellar brands and William Morton
Drink up Chill with Chai
As the summer beckons, the people at Drink Me Chai have created a way to enjoy your chai latte, even in the hot weather. Simply blend together some Spiced Chai powder, ice cold milk and ice for the perfect quick iced chai latte. And, if you’re feeling really indulgent, why not dollop in some ice cream for a dreamy Chai Latte shake? If you fancy a different flavour, in addition to their Spiced and Vanilla Chai Latte, Drink Me Chai has also just launched new flavours including Chocolate, Mango and last but not least, Peppermint.
BrEwINg a NEw IDEa New collaborations have seen Otley Brewing Company create a number of limited edition beers. The award-winning, family-run business has teamed up with some of the world’s most well-respected beer writers; Adrian Tierney Jones, Pete Brown, Melissa Cole and Roger Protz. Together, they will jointly brew unique style beers. First up has been influential beer-writer Pete Brown, who tried his hand at creating an Imperial Russian stout with ginger.
FINE FOODIES May/june 2011
Look out for... = John and Kim Coulson transformed a derelict Cornish farm and outbuildings into a thriving vineyard and orchard, Polygoon. The most recent addition to the range is its first rosé, with a burst of Cornish strawberries, cherries and summer fruits. = Boasting an uplifting grapefruit flavour and floral hop aroma, Badger’s new Hopping Hare ale is perfect as we move into warmer weather. Lightly golden and with a crisp refreshing taste, it’s particularly good with spicy Thai dishes, fish dishes or roast lamb.
noT your average vodka
Drinking vodka has been given an incredibly stylish twist with the creation of Valt. Valt is a brand created by two friends who were both living in New York. One day, they were reminiscing about home and by the end had come up with an idea to create a vodka made by Scottish distillers, using only Scottish barley and Scottish mountain water. And so Valt, involving a quintuple micro-distillation process, was born, described by the founders as having a nose of barley sugar and cream, with a taste of sweet vanilla ice cream and a warm, melting butter finish.
If you’re after some refreshment in the warmer weather, try a combination of pomegranate and rose. That’s what the people at Five Valleys Cordials have done as part of a new range of drinks they’ve created, which are perfect mixed with still or sparkling water. As well as Pomegranate and Rose, other combinations are Apricot and Ginger, and Lemon and Mint. For the more adventurous, the cordials can be added to cocktails, marinades, as a cooking ingredients to fruit crumbles, or even made into ice lollies.
diary date Look out for Natural Wine Fortnight, taking place between May 9 to 22. This brand new initiative is designed to promote natural wines in the UK, which also sees the Natural Wine Fair take place.
FINE FOODIES May/june 2011
The cocktail master JJ Goodman was one half of a duo who won the 2008 series of The Restaurant. He went on to open The London Cocktail Club, and joins Fine Foodies as our resident mixologist.
The greaT BriTish desserT The Sunday roast has always been a big affair in my house. In fact, you could say it’s been more of a ritual. To go with that there are, of course, the thousand questions that plague our every move at the table such as leg or breast? Mint sauce or mint jelly? How much bread sauce can one fit in one’s mouth before the rest of our guests start to grimace? (leg... jelly...lots! and yes it’s worth it!) There was always a lot of trading between Yorkshire puds and cauliflower cheese but when it got to the end of the meal there was no hesitation or bickering...it was pudding time! Now, everyone is entitled to their favourites, but the luxury in our house was that without question, the unanimous vote always fell to the king of great British deserts; the crumble. Which brings me onto... Bramley apple crumble martini. ‘Really?’ I hear you scream. Have a little faith my Padawans, this drink is guaranteed to rock your socks off! Ingredients: • 2 spoons of your homemade Bramley apple sauce • 2 teaspoons of vanilla sugar • 2 tablespoons of Demerara sugar
• 20ml lemon juice • Pinch nutmeg • 25ml brandy • 1 small egg, whole Method: • Rough chop your apple and put it on half heat with two tablespoons of Demerara and cook until sauced. Leave to chill. • For the custard, place one whole egg and two teaspoons of vanilla sugar in a cocktail shaker. • Add 2 tablespoons of the apple sauce and 25ml of your preferred spirit (cognac works great with this one). • Add 20ml of lemon juice, a pinch of nutmeg, top with cubed ice and shake. • It will take 15 seconds at least for the yolk to emulsify before you can strain it into a chilled glass. • Garnish with a twist of lemon, sprinkle of nutmeg and a big fat piece of short bread (that or a digestive will do nicely). • Heaven in a glass!
Fine Foodie hero
t would be safe to
Martin at the orphanage Imporient Tea supports
assume that the Graham family is one of the most committed groups of tea drinkers.
The company is also doing its bit for the next generation living in the Pfunda area. “We have helped to rebuild an orphanage in the area in
The tea trade has been a
Rwanda in collaboration with
part of the Graham family for
the Point Foundation,” Martin
some 140 years, now in its fifth
generation, making it one of
So, what can Imporient Tea
the oldest in the UK to still
offer tea drinkers that is
grow and produce its own tea.
Dating back to the 1800s, the Graham family was initially involved in tea trading. Birchall George Graham went to India as an officer with the Duke of Wellington’s Regiment, returning to England after 18 years. In 1872, he went back to India, joining his brother,
“What makes us unique as a
Fine Foodies celebrates those making great food. Here, we talk to Martin Graham, of Imporient Tea.
UK independent company that deals with tea from the point of origin to the point of sale,” he explained, adding: “We grow the tea, process it, bag it, taste it and pack it.” The company’s premium
Robert Fuller Graham, and
Martin Graham is the
used his savings to make a
nephew of David, and also
“Rwanda produces really
living by planting tea in
works for the business, and
fantastic tea – it is not famous
bought out a range of herbal
Darjeeling. Robert was a
admits: “I’m not a coffee
for it but it is amazing because
teas that are also attracting
founder member of the
drinker, I’ve always been a tea
it has such an amazing flavour.
Darjeeling Tea Association and
drinker. I really love tea and I
It also has a very bright colour,”
lived in India for most of his life.
guess you would expect for all
Birchall’s son, Herbert, also planted tea in Darjeeling while
the family to be into tea. “There was such an appeal
from Kenya and Rwanda.
company is that we are the last
In fact, at the Pfunda Tea Estate alone the company
blend black tea is the most popular, but they have recently
Yet with the influx of many high street coffee shops, it could be said that tea drinking has suffered a bit.
Herbert’s brother Charles was a
in joining a company that
produces in the region of 1.5
part owner of the Lingia Tea
previous generations of my
million kilos of tea.
Company in Darjeeling. Then
family had been involved in,
Edward Graham, the father of
and it is such an interesting
much further than simply
current chairman David, went
trade to be in, one that is
producing good quality tea.
choice when it comes to
to India as an officer in the Sikh
heavily linked to British history.”
For Imporient Tea has a heavy
coffee but I think the trend is
commitment to the local
swinging back to tea now –
through the family business,
communities out there and
people are seeing there’s a lot
becoming a tea taster before
sustainability. They have their
more to tea – it is actually
Imporient Tea was established
deciding to branch out on his
own factories in Rwanda and
something that can really be
by the fourth generation,
own, and Imporient Tea was
Kenya, and co-own the tea
enjoyed if it is good quality.”
David Graham. His sons, Daniel
born. The brand specialises in
plantation in the Pfunda region
and Tresham, are both
high quality tea
in Rwanda, ensuring that
to come by, as Martin
involved in the business too.
communities get higher
Regiment and stayed in India to plant tea. It wasn’t until 1974 that
David learnt the trade
But the business extends
yields for their crops.
FINE FOODIES MaY/JUNE 2011
But Martin believes tea will always have a place in the heart of Brits. “People have been spoilt for
But quality tea can be hard
“It’s very difficult to find
“We own the majority
good quality English breakfast
of the estate and the local
tea on the market. The biggest
co-operatives also have a
surprise when I joined was
stake in it,” Martin
finding there is so much to tea
explained. “And as we see this
making – it is very similar to
as a skilled job we have built
wine in that sense. It is so
staff housing there because
complex to produce tea and
prior to that, people were
there are many things to
living in shacks and under
consider – origin, taste, and the