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Issue.2 Vol.1 May/June 2011

Fine Foodies Passionate about good food Brand new foodiiene magaz

James Martin INTERVIEW



May/June 2011


Global foodies



Fine Foodies Passionate about good food

Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Essex CM22 6HJ Telephone: 01279 816300 Editor: Rachel Symonds e: t: 01279 810088


elcome to the second issue of

Fine Foodies magazine, and what a couple of months it’s been since our launch.

When we came up with the concept for

Contributing Editor: Sarah Willingham

Fine Foodies last autumn, we knew there was

Contributors: Jennifer Britt, JJ Goodman, Jane Baxter, Lindy Wildsmith

a captive audience of people who loved good

Sub Editor: Jeff Munn-Giddings

have been completely overwhelmed with the

food and wanted to read all about it, but we

Group Sales Manager: Ruth Gilmour

response to the first issue. Whether you’ve been raving about it in

e: t: 01279 810067

store where you picked it up, or commenting on Twitter, thanks to all

Sales Executives: Ben Brooks e: t: 01279 810068 Production Leann Lau e: t: 01279 810075 Design Clare Holland e: Administration/Distribution/Marketing James Rix e: t: 01279 816300 Accounts Lorraine Evans e: t: 01279 816300 Managing Director David Cann e:

who have given us such great feedback. And so we bring you our second issue, packed full of all the things you told us you wanted in a magazine. Our cover story features Saturday Kitchen star, James Martin, as he prepares to appear at the forthcoming BBC Good Food Show Summer in June (see page 20). James talks about his early memories of cooking and reveals his signature dish. If you struggle for inspiration when cooking fish, then look no further than our featured recipes on page 28, courtesy of CJ Jackson and Fish Cookbook. Or, if you grow your own fruit and veg then why not turn to page 24, where we show you how to put to good use all your home-grown produce. In this issue, we also head over to Italy with Lindy Wildsmith, who takes us on a whistle-stop tour of all her favourite native dishes, which is enough to whet anyone’s appetite. And if you prefer something a little closer to home, turn to our special feature on Scotland’s traditional cuisine on page 12. Whatever you reason for picking up Fine Foodies, we hope you enjoy it. And if you have any comments or suggestions for the magazine, please feel free to email me at rachel.symonds@

ISSN 2046-438X

Published by Target Publishing Limited. Printed in the UK by The Magazine Printing Company plc ©2011 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material in accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004. Or join the Fine Foodies community at Twitter – we can be found @finefoodies



Sarah Willingham is one of the most successful people in the food industry, best known for appearing alongside top chef Raymond Blanc as an inspector on the popular BBC show, The Restaurant. With two business degrees, the self-confessed foodie most recently was acknowledged as one of the 35 most successful women under 35 in the UK, featured in the Courvoisier Top 500 and in Business Weekly’s young Entrepreneur of the year Awards. For over a decade, Sarah has managed some of the biggest brands in the restaurant industry, including Pizza Express International. In 2004, she was part of a consortium which acquired The Bombay Bicycle Club in London, growing it from six restaurants to 17.

May/june 2011 FINE FOODIES

Fine Foodies

Contents Passionate about good food

22 COvEr StOry


James Martin on creating honest food and cooking for a live audience



Food focus: Dairy – We journey through the UK to uncover the nation’s finest dairy producers

20 Recipes – Cook using home-grown produce with the help of The Allotment Cookbook


Recipes – Get creative in the kitchen with Fish Cookbook


Global foodie – Lindy Wildsmith takes us on a tour of her favourite Italian cuisine

6 8 10

Foodie bites – What’s going on in the world of fine food Shelf life – Explore the latest products in store

Sarah’s view – Fine Foodies Contributing Editor, Sarah Willingham, on the need to get back to good, honest cooking





issUE 2 vol.1 MaY/JUNE 2011



UK fare – Fine Foodies offers a mouth-watering insight into Scotland’s food heritage


In season – what’s ideal for eating and cooking with at this time of year? Riverford Organic tells all


Drink up – from wines and cocktail ideas to the newest hot drinks


Fine Foodie hero – Martin Graham

Product news

News update

Foodie bites ProtEctioN for thE cUMbErlaNd saUsagE

Top of the shops A Yorkshire farm shop has been named the best in the UK. Cedar Barn Farm Shop and Café in Pickering, north Yorkshire, beat off stiff competition from across the UK to take the title for Best On-Farm Café/Restaurant. Awarded by the National Farmers’ Retail & Markets Association (FARMA), Cedar Barn was praised by the judges for its “top quality, homegrown food on offer, served by friendly staff in a stunning setting with spectacular views across the farm”. The shop, housed in an eco-friendly, cedar-clad building, sells its own produce as well as many locally-sourced goods. The menu in the café reflects a similar ethos, with local and seasonal produce chosen. “Our business has grown out of our love for food and farming, but we also pride ourselves on offering an important community service, so it’s great to achieve national recognition for the hard work of all our staff,” enthused Cedar Barn’s Karl Avison, who runs the farm with his wife Mandy.


Producers of Cumberland sausages must now follow strict criteria to market them as such after securing geographical protection status. In the same way as Melton Mowbray pork pies and Stilton cheese can only be so named if they are made in these areas, now the Cumberland sausage must come from Cumbria after it was granted Protected Geographical Indication status. Therefore, any being sold as

Traditional Cumberland Sausage must meet strict criteria for meat content, ingredients, production process and place of origin. The protection follows a six-year application process by local producers to the European Union. Speaking on behalf of the Cumberland Sausage Association, farmer Peter Gott said: “It’s seen as the signature dish of Cumbria and we are passionate about protecting its long-established reputation.”

A TASTE OF ThE cApITAl Sample the delights of some of London’s best eateries at the capital’s largest open-air festival. Taking place on June 16 and 17, Taste of London is held in Regent’s Park, featuring a host of exciting restaurants, chefs and 150 food and drink producers. New for 2011 is The Secret Garden, tucked away behind Regent’s Park, where visitors can take part in Q&A sessions with top chefs, and indulge in Champagne and canapés. • Find out more by visiting

Top chefs in line-up for summer show Masterchef stars, along with James Martin, join a stellar line-up of experts at this year s BBC Good Food Show Summer. Dhruv Baker, who won the 2010 series of Masterchef, will be cooking up a storm in the demonstration kitchen during the show, taking place from June 15 to 19 at Birmingham s NEC. He will be joined by Masterchef judges, John Torode and Gregg Wallace, as well as other top chefs including James and Rachel Allen. • Find out more by visiting Turn to page 20 to hear from James Martin.


If you d like to give your youngsters an early education in cookery, then a forthcoming event could be just the thing. Kitchen Academy is running a residential cookery school for children this summer at PGL s Marchants Hill, in Surrey. Whether they simply want to learn the basics or brush up on existing cooking skills, this week-long holiday will teach them how to cook a variety of dishes. Taught by Kitchen Academy chef Jethro Carr, afterwards, the youngsters will be given their own recipe book containing everything they have learnt. • Find out more at


It seems us Brits are getting healthier, with fruit topping our snack of choice. New research has revealed that some 58 per cent of us would reach for fruit, while 48 per cent would choose a drink. However, we also still like a sugary snack, with 49 per cent admitting to succumbing to a biscuit and 48 per cent chocolate.


Artisan parties and a plan to create a giant edible map are just some of the highlights from the north-east s EAT festival. EAT NewcastleGateshead is a 10-day food extravaganza in June, which will see local producers join restaurants and other culinary experts to celebrate all the food fare on offer in the north east of England. The event includes a free weekend of street food markets, cookery demonstrations, the Chocolate Festival, as well as the Chilli and Beer Festival. In addition, Cakebook, taking place on June 26 in the north, will see the creation of a giant edible map of north England, while the Artisan House Party is a series of foodmaking themed parties. • Find out more at

Food fans called on to cast vote The Observer Food Monthly Awards have launched for 2011 to celebrate all that is great about British food. Run in association with Bordeaux Wines, there are a range of categories to vote in, including Best Independent Local Retailer, Best Food Blog, Reader s Recipe and Food Personality OFM Editor, Allan Jenkins, commented: In the 10 years that OFM has been reporting on the food industry we have rarely seen a time as turbulent as this. Organics are in retreat,

supermarkets are still strangling farmers and businessmen are becoming billionaires by betting on wheat and rice prices. We are proud the awards celebrate the people challenging our eating and shopping habits, those that appreciate the value of food. I hope our readers think hard about who they nominate for an award and I am sure, as ever, the entries will demonstrate innovation and excellence in the field of food and drink. • Visit to vote before the deadline of June 24.



Product news



The country s first organic hot dog is hitting the shelves just in time for the start of barbecue season. Helen Browning Organics has created the 97 per cent pork, gluten-free sausage, from free-range British pigs. With a moist and meaty texture and a slightly smoked, full flavour, the hot dogs are perfect for the barbecue.

MARINADE MAGIC Add a touch of summer flavour to your dishes with Olives Et Al s Pink Mojo. The winner of a Great Taste Award, Pink Mojo is part of a new summer collection range of marinades and dressings, made with extra virgin olive oil, pink grapefruit juice, garlic, and Dijon mustard. For the more adventurous, why not try Chilli and Mint, or Beetroot and Thyme?

Fine Foodies recommends Farrington Oils has added


Home-made in West Sussex, Higgidy s latest range addition promises a tasty snack on the go. The new slices come in three flavours ‒ we love the Pancetta, Red Onion and Mature Cheddar variety ‒ and all are crafted with handmade puff pastry and carefully sourced ingredients that reflect the seasons. And if you want something more substantial, Higgidy also make quiches and pies.

a new dressing to its range of Mellow Yellow cold pressed rapeseed oils. Founder Duncan Farrington felt that a British take on the family favourite Balsamic-style dressing was the next step in the range, and so created an apple balsamic vinegar, packed with garlic and balanced with basil, ideal for tomato salads and much more.




Denhay Bacon has received praise indeed after being granted a Royal Warrant by the Prince of Wales. The Dorset-based farm first began making traditional farmhouse cheddar back in 1959, adding hand-cured bacon to the range in 1994. The Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales is the first to be given to bacon curers, and stands for five years.


Two new sauces have been developed showing off the best of Suffolk produce. Suffolk Mud has created two new products; Cyder and Horseradish Mustard and Bramley Apple Sauce, both of which include cyder from fellow county producer, Aspall.

Regular bite

We are what we eat


Each issue, Fine Foodies Contributing Editor, Sarah Willingham, gives her view. Here, she talks about why we need to get back to basics and stop overcomplicating our food.

few days ago I’m sat in

am to my son what a supermarket, farm

hospital in that wonderful

shop or restaurant is to me. The only

mobiles, dancing dogs, it’s all about fuel,

bubble of newborn bliss,

difference is that I am able to make

the right fuel.

feeding my fourth (and

educated purchases as a consumer and

last!) baby for the first time,

therefore provide only the best for him.

just minutes after he forced his way into the world 10 days earlier than expected.

But all of this makes me think – at what

Isn’t it wonderfully basic? Forget singing

In a very scatty moment (baby brain, I call it!) I filled our diesel engine with unleaded petrol – the wrong fuel – and

point does the responsibility shift from the

the car simply died a slow death. Minor

provider to the consumer? Right now I’m

surgery later and pumped full of the right

revelling in the magic of having grown him

both provider and consumer. As an

fuel we manage to get going again with, I

for nine months. And now here he is, just

educated consumer I am at times happy

am promised, no permanent damage.

like the three brothers and sisters before

to eat rubbish, unhealthy, processed food

him, instinctively knowing where his ‘food’

when it’s my choice and my body. But as

engine of course, but still I’m learning that if

comes from, sucking with the level of

the provider it’s a totally different story as I

you keep putting the wrong stuff in then

enthusiasm and excitement that I can only

have this overwhelming sense of

you’ll never get the best out of the machine.

get from the most indulgent of chocolate

responsibility for my tiny little boy that I

Oreo malt shakes nowadays.

want only the absolute best for him.

I’m staring at him, tiny, helpless, and

Our bodies are more robust than the Audi

During this process it strikes me just how much we have started to overcomplicate

So what makes my son any different

food. Do our children even know that a

this miracle. Here he is, my son, totally reliant

from those of us that simply know nothing

chicken kiev comes from a chicken? Or a

on me for good, nutritious food to help him

about food, who fuel without any

fish finger from a fish swimming in the sea?

grow into a big strong boy. He comes out

consideration for its content? Aren’t we all,

Everything is now so over-processed. If we

needing food, knowing where to get it from

therefore, reliant in some way on our supply

had more emphasis on the original source, I

and frankly with no idea if it’s any good or

chain to be responsible and to ‘do the right

think that consumers would understand

not. He just trusts me, his provider.

thing’? Should our supermarkets, butchers,

food far better and therefore have a much

restaurants and even Government – our

better relationship with what we use as this

I’m sat feeding him during the early hours

providers – feel and share some of this

all-essential fuel.

of the morning, it dawns on me...I am the

responsibility? And do they?

Over the next few days I was reflecting on

I’ve never thought about it before but as

supply chain. I’m a new step in our already

This morning I’m chatting to my health

If you go back 1,000 years, if you couldn’t eat, pick, kill or catch it then you

complex food chain, but an important step,

visitor. She’s just come from another mum.

couldn’t eat it. Now, if it doesn’t come in

one that is filled with responsibility. My son

Her baby won’t settle, is agitated,

alphabet shapes then we won’t buy it.

needs me to make the right decisions.

demanding, generally unhappy. What’s the

Have our bodies really evolved so much

root of the problem, I ask? It’s nearly always

that we can process food that is so

the same, simple answer she

dramatically different from its original

This is how I justify my sudden, slightly obsessive relationship with nutrition. I aim for the perfect balanced diet, nothing processed,

form? We have no idea what goes into our

everything fresh and as local as possible. I look

food during this complex chain.

for organic, free range – happy plants, animals and vegetables. I start to fill my vegetable patches with seeds and seedlings in the hope

I support our wonderful farm shops who strive to bring us this food in its purest form. Since we’ve taken on our ‘extreme’

that this wonderful spring weather will bring

eating (as my husband calls it), my son is

me the produce quicker than usual. I

getting fat thighs, my husband and I are

suddenly need everything to be pure,

starting to lose ours (hurrah!) and even he

untarnished by chemicals and travel. My

is reluctantly admitting that he feels far

husband says I’m a freak – he’s probably right!

better for it. We’re taking food in its purest

But the truth is that, although clearly a

form and really, really enjoying it.

little extreme, I now eat how I wish I would

We are as good as the stuff we put into

eat when I’ve only got me to worry about.

our mouths. I just need to remember this

In my opinion, in very simplistic terms, I



when I only have myself to think about! FF


In your store


Caprilatte Ice Cream is regarded as the UK s No.1 Luxury Dairy Goat Milk Ice Cream. Available in over 40 sublimely seductive natural flavours that are sure to arouse even the tiredest of tastebuds. In creating this Award Winning ice cream the makers use hand-picked local produce skillfully blended with milk from their own pedigree dairy goats. Lovingly handmade in small batches; the heart of the ice cream is simple: a blend of the finest ingredients and a passion for perfection! Despite Caprilattes unashamed decadence, not all pleasures have to come with a penalty! Caprilatte is lower in fat than most ice cream & uniquely it has the added benefit of being suitable for the growing number of us with dairy intolerances. For more information visit


A new all-natural range of delicious gummy sweets is hitting the shelves in the UK. Made with a revolutionary plant-based gelling agent and all-natural fruit juices, Goody Good Stuff sweets are safe for vegetarians and taste great. They are Kosher & Halal certified and come in 8 fantastic flavours including Summer Peaches and Strawberries & Cream. They are also free from gluten, dairy, soy and most other food allergens, making them a great fit for kids parties. Available at Holland & Barrett, Wholefoods Market, Booths & Planet Organic. For more information visit


Bath Soft Cheese will feature alongside the strawberries and cream at Wimbledon this year. The organic award-winning cheese made on the family dairy farm near Bath has has been selected for the hospitality catering at the World s number on Tennis event in SW19. This follows on from Bath Soft Cheese being selected for the hospitality at Royal Ascot, it s turning out to be a very social summer for the cheese. For more information visit


Island Bakery Organics are bakers of some the tastiest and most indulgent organic treats around. In their small bakery on the Hebridean Isle of Mull, they make a small but beautifully-formed range of organic biscuits that adorn the shelves of good delis and farm shops across the country. Their Lemon Melts are a favourite, and the bright zesty flavour is just perfect for the time of year. Thanks to the use of pure lemon oil instead of any kind of synthesised flavouring, what you get is a genuine lemon aroma that perfectly complements the generous lashings of white chocolate in which they are hand-dipped. Look out for them in your local delicatessen! For more information visit


Quality tea company teapigs is on a mission to get UK tea drinkers to drink real tea . teapigs define real tea to be quality whole leaf not the dusty stuff found in most of the nation s paper teabags. When tea drinkers get to taste the flavour that quality whole leaf delivers, they experience what real tea actually tastes like. teapigs present a range of whole leaf teas and herbal infusions in individual biodegradable mesh tea temples making preparing quality whole leaf tea so much easier. Tea drinkers who want to join in can sign up to the mission. For more information visit


Another new and interesting flavour from the famous artisan crispmakers Burts ‒ Pesto - in a very distinctive and retro green colour packet, is a must for anyone considering friends around for a few drinks, a party or a BBQ/Picnic during the summer ahead. With the typical Pesto flavour combining garlic, parsley & basil they are certainly tasty and with the usual quality and crunch you get from Burts they make an excellent addition to any gathering. As it says on the packet as comforting as an Italian Grandmother . Available from good quality food outlets throughout the country. For more information visit



UK fare


Scotland Haggis, shortbread and whisky may be the most closely related products we associate with Scotland, but, as Fine Foodies discovers, the country’s native cuisine has far more to offer.


cotland has some pretty distinctive foods – think

stirring the mixture as it thickens. Oats are also, of course, used in haggis.

Aberdeen Angus is arguably the bestknown breed of cattle from Scotland,

haggis and black pudding –

Considered Scotland’s national dish,

renowned for the rich and tasty flavour of

but delve a little deeper and

haggis is made from the heart, liver and

the meat. Aberdeen Angus was developed

this is a country with a hugely

lungs of a sheep, mixed with suet,

in the early part of the 19th century from

oatmeal and onion, highly seasoned and

the polled and predominantly black cattle

sewn into the sheep’s stomach. It is

of north-east Scotland.

diverse cuisine. Interestingly, French cooking has long

been an important part of Scottish cuisine

traditionally eaten with ‘bashed neeps’,

due to the two countries’ historical

which is mashed turnip, especially on

alliance with each other. The French

Burns Night (January 25) in memory of

influence was especially noticeable

the Scottish poet, Robert Burns.

during the reign of Mary, Queen of Scots,

Then there are oatcakes, unsweetened

who bought French chefs with her on her

biscuits made of oatmeal, usually eaten

return to Scotland.

with cheese, honey or marmalade.

So, what can you expect from Scotland’s most famous foods and dishes?

Meat matters

Scottish lamb is also renowned for being of extremely high quality. The most highly prized of all game birds is grouse which, when cooked properly is strong, dark and succulent. Ayrshire, the original Scottish bacon, is especially world famous too. Scotland has around 10 per cent of the UK pig herd. Scotland is also famed for its seafood,

If we talk about beef, then it’s likely most

with a vast array of fish, prawns, lobsters,

of us have many times sampled

mussels, oysters, crabs and scallops being

If you had to pinpoint one staple food

Scotland’s most popular meat export, the

found across the country’s coastline.

from Scotland, it would have to be oats, for

Aberdeen Angus beef.

Scotland has a particularly strong reputation

All about oats the pure fact that they are used in so many native dishes, from haggis to porridge as well as, of course, the popular oatcakes. Going back in history, oats were the

for salmon, both fresh and smoked.

Drink up If haggis is Scotland’s national dish, then

staple of agriculture in Scotland, due to the

whisky would certainly be considered its

fact that they are able to grow in harsh

drink counterpart.

climates and poor soil. In fact, it was

There are two types of whisky. The first

common to carry a small bag of oatmeal

is malt, which contains malted barley only

that could be transformed into porridge or

and has a more distinctive flavour – not to


mention a higher price – while grain

In those days, oats would be mixed with hot water to produce what was known as Brose. The traditional Scots way

whisky is made with both malted and unmalted barley. So popular is whisky that there is even

to make porridge is to soak the oats

the Scottish Malt Whisky Trail, a signposted

overnight, then boil them in the morning,

trail through the picturesque countryside



Loch Fyne

Cock-a-leekie soup

N Aberdeen rowie: A savoury Scottish bread roll, with a flaky texture and a buttery, salty taste. It is often toasted with jam or butter. of Speyside to seven working distilleries. There is now even a network of whisky

N Cock-a-leekie soup: Made with chicken and leeks, while Scotch broth is

embassies that operate in Scotland to

made with mutton stock and barley.

promote the understanding of malt

N Bannock: This is a bread in the form of


a flat cake, baked on a griddle, generally

What else

made of oatmeal. N Cranachan: Made with double cream,

There are many more signature dishes

whisky, honey and topped with toasted

native to Scotland, including:

oatmeal, Cranachan is usually served with

N Black pudding: Made from a mixture of

fresh soft fruit, like raspberries. FF

congealed pigs’ blood, fat, oats, barley and a special blend of spices stuffed in a length of intestine. Each year the Scottish Federation of Meat Traders holds the Scottish Black Pudding Competition. N Stovies: Usually consisting of potatoes and onions and some form of cold meat, such as sausages, the potatoes are cooked by stewing with fat.

Supporting producers There’s clearly much passion in Scotland when it comes to promoting home-grown produce. One example is that of Food From Argyll, an organisation made up of producers from the area dedicated to bringing a taste of the West Coast of Scotland to new audiences.

Products to come from members include hill-bred beef, lamb and venison, along with fresh seafood from Argyll’s coast and sea lochs, and cheese from grass-fed dairy herds. Companies involved include Loch Fyne Oysters, Inverloch Cheese and Taste of Bute.



UK fare Whet your appetite with a selection of mouth-watering, Scottish-inspired recipes courtesy of Loch Fyne Oysters. Loch Fyne Gravadlax Serves 4 Ingredients: • 200g sliced Loch Fyne Gravadlax • 4 shortcrust pastry tarts • 200ml crème fraiche • 20g Dijon mustard • 2 egg yolks • 1 whole egg • Salt and freshly milled black pepper • Small bunch of chopped fresh dill Method: • Heat the oven to 180ºC. Line four 8cm round tartlet moulds, leaving an overlap for shrinkage, trim after cooking, place greaseproof paper to cover the pastry and dried beans on top. • Bake blind for 8-10 minutes, remove from the oven and allow to cool, remove beans and greaseproof paper. • Mix the egg yolks and whole egg, 150ml of the crème fraiche, 10g of Dijon mustard, chopped dill, salt and pepper.

• Trim the Gravadlax slices and make into rosettes, any trimmings add to the crème fraiche mix. Fill the crème fraiche mix into the tartlets and bake for 10 minutes, check filling is set, remove from the oven and allow to cool. • Mix the remaining crème fraiche and Dijon mustard, season, place a tartlet on each plate, drizzle the crème fraiche around the plate. Finally place the rosettes of Gravadlax on the tartlet and serve.

Chef’s note: well with this.

A beetroot salad goes

Steamed Gigha Halibut with Scottish asparagus and gazpacho sauce Serves 4 Ingredients: • 4 180g Gigha Halibut fillets • Salt and freshly milled black pepper • 100ml tomato juice • 20ml sherry vinegar • 100g cucumber • 60g red onion • 30g spring onions • 80ml extra virgin rapeseed oil • 2 drops of Tabasco • Juice of ½ lime • 50g finely diced red pepper • 50g tomato concasse • 300 bunch of seasonal Scottish asparagus (May and June) • 80g chopped hazelnuts • 100g fresh white breadcrumbs • 60g melted butter Method: • Heat the oven to 160ºC. Liquidise the tomato juice, sherry vinegar, cucumber, onions, lime juice, salt and pepper, Tabasco and 80ml rapeseed oil, pass through a fine sieve, reserve. • Heat a pan of boiling salted water, prepare



and cook the asparagus al dente, carefully drain and cool, reserve. • Heat 30g of butter in a frying pan, brown the nuts and breadcrumbs, season, reserve. Season the halibut fillets. • Heat 30ml rapeseed oil in a non-stick pan and sear the halibut fillets four minutes each side, place on a baking sheet, top the halibut fillets with the nut mixture and put in the oven to keep warm. • To serve, heat four main course bowls, warm the asparagus spears in a pan with butter, salt and pepper, and drain. Mix the diced red pepper and tomato concasse into the gazpacho and pour into the bowls. • Place the asparagus across the gazpacho and top with the halibut, serve immediately.

Chef’s note:

A summer dish of chilled gazpacho and warm halibut, if preferred the gazpacho can be heated.

Loch Fyne Oysters with soy and ginger Serves 4 Ingredients: • 24 90/105g Loch Fyne Oysters • 50ml sweet dark soy sauce • 20g peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger • 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped • 50g red pepper, finely chopped • 100g spring onions prepared and cut on an angle • 150ml extra virgin rapeseed oil • 2 heads pak choi • Freshly milled black pepper Method: • Heat the oven to 160ºC. Place the soy sauce, garlic, red pepper, ginger and rapeseed oil in a medium pan, warm and allow to infuse, reserve warm. • Open the oysters, remove from the shell, drain off the juices and strain through a fine chinois (sieve), reserve the deep base shell, wash and dry, arrange on a baking sheet and heat through the oven. Make sure the oysters are free from any shell. • Heat a frying pan and quickly stir fry the pak choi in 25ml of the sauce infusion and some of the oyster juice, reduce over a high heat, reserve hot. • Place the oysters in the half shells and heat through in the oven for two minutes. Bring the sauce to the boil, add the spring onions, remove from the heat. • Take the oysters from the oven, arrange

six per plate, spoon the sauce over the oysters and serve with the pak choi, serve the extra sauce in a dish.

Chef’s note:

No need to use any salt in this dish – jasmine rice with sesame seed goes very well with this!

Food focus

Delight in


Jennifer Britt discovers why Britain excels when it comes to dairy.


ere in Britain, we should

Its Cornish Camembert is made using

be proud of all that we

authentic French cultures. Love it or find it

have on offer when it

intimidatingly pungent, either way it

comes to dairy.

provokes an opinion, while its mellow sister,

We start with the

geography of the British cheese board.

The West

St Endellion Brie, made with Cornish cream, is always a crowd pleaser on the cheeseboard. Simon Weaver, from Upper Slaughter, on

Traditionally, Cheddar cheese was made

the edge of the Gloucestershire Cotswolds

within 30 miles of Wells Cathedral. Now

whose Cotswold Organic Dairy specialises

‘cheddar’ has gone global but the historic

in Brie, is helping to preserve cheese-

link with the west of England is preserved

making right on the farm.

through a European Union Protected

“Every day our milk travels just five

Designation of Origin (PDO). This means

metres from the milking shed to the

that cheeses eligible to use the ‘West

creamery,” he says.

Country farmhouse Cheddar’ name must

At Smart’s Farm on the edge of the

be handmade and cheddared – the unique

Forest of Dean, they still make both Double

process of turning and stacking the curds –

and the lesser-known Single Gloucester

from the milk of cows who graze the

from old family recipes; the Double from a

luscious pastures of Somerset, Devon,

double serving of full fat milk from both

Dorset or Cornwall.

morning and evening milkings, and the

Among those farmhouse cheesemakers

Single from full fat from the morning

is Longman, fourth generation farmers from

milking, and skimmed from the evening.

North Cadbury, near Yeovil, with their

Double is matured for several months,

evocatively named Vale of Camelot brand.

while the Single is eaten young after only a

Thirty miles away, the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company has the distinction of

few weeks.

producing the “only Cheddar made in

South East

Cheddar” using unpasteurised milk from

While the Home Counties have no big

herds on local farms. Some truckles are

territorial cheese varieties, they do have

carried, wrapped in muslin, into the caves of

their fair share of artisan cheesemakers,

Cheddar Gorge to mature, produce a rind

such as the Two Hoots Cheese Company of

and to develop complexity of flavour.

Barkham, near Wokingham, Berkshire. It

West Country producers have also taken

specialises in blue cheese made from either

a leaf from the French soft cheese recipe

a blend of Guernsey and Jersey cow’s milk

book, as is the case at Trevarrian Creamery.

or ewe’s milk.



Barkham Blue has earned a shelf-full of rosettes and silverware over the years, including Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards. Deep in Sussex, the High Weald Dairy, near Haywards Heath, produces a semi-hard cheese, St Giles, named after the local parish church, in the style of a French St Paulin or Port Salut. It took gold at the British Cheese Awards last year.

The North Cistercian monks started making cheese in Wensleydale in the 12th century. The 1990s nearly saw an end to this grand Yorkshire tradition but triumph was snatched from disaster when the Wensleydale Creamery was saved from extinction. Wensleydale Creamery is now flourishing, with a little help from distinguished fans, Wallace & Gromit. It expects to soon hear the result of its application for a PDO protected food status for Real Yorkshire Wensleydale Cheese. Over in Lancashire, there is not just one cheese bearing the county name, but three. Creamy and Tasty are made with the curd from several days milking. Tasty Lancashire is matured for longer, giving it a stronger taste. The more modern Crumbly Lancashire uses a single day s milk and is eaten young. Carron Lodge, at Inglewhite, near Preston, also produces blue cheeses, including Lancashire Blue and Brock Blue. Handmade in small batches, they are matured in a man-made cave on the farm. A new English creamy goats cheese from the Delamere Dairy is fostering crossPennine co-operation rather than rivalry. It uses the milk of herds from both Yorkshire

“The English Midlands have a rich cheese heritage of proud and famous names; Derby, Red Leicester and the king of cheeses, Stilton.�

and Lancashire. Until the 19th century, Cheshire was a matured, harder cheese unlike the crumbly versions popular today. H.S.Bourne of Malpas make Cheshire cheese in the old style and Mrs Bourne s Mature has a fine full flavour.

Midlands The English Midlands have a rich cheese heritage of proud and famous names; Derby, Red Leicester and the king of cheeses, Stilton. Ironically, it is no longer legally permitted to make Stilton cheese in the village that



Food focus gave it its name, Stilton, in

Caws Cenarth, in

Huntingdon. That right is

Carmarthenshire, makes a

reserved for the counties of

Caerffili following methods

Derbyshire, Leicestershire and

handed down by both


grandmothers of cheesemaker

Quenby Hall, a Leicestershire stately home, claims to have

Carwyn Adams. But this artisanal producer

first produced Stilton as we

has developed a whole range

know it in England s first

of stylish cheeses, the latest

purpose-built dairy in the

being a soft rind Golden

1700s. The modern Quenby

Cenarth, which was Supreme

Hall Dairy has won awards

Champion in the British Cheese

galore since the estate s current

Awards last year.

owner, Freddie de Lisle, revived cheese-making in 2005. Shropshire may be dwarfed

Scotland Traditional Scottish cheese-

in the recognition stakes by

making was shaped by having

more famous cheese names

an abundance of milk in the

but not in the passion of the

short spring and summer

family farmer-cheesemakers.

months, which was preserved

Mr Moyden s Handmade Cheeses are made on the family farm at Church Aston near the

into hard cheeses for long storage. Modern temperature control

market town of Newport. The

has encouraged more variety

British Friesian herd chews the

from today s crop of Scottish

clover-rich cud on the farm and


on the Caer Caradoc hill, which

The range from the Connage

dominates the countryside

Highland Dairy, situated on an


organic family farm at Ardersier

Shropshire is a fantastic

near Inverness, includes award-

county with pastureland rich in

winners Connage Dunlop

a whole variety of grasses, says

Scottish Cheddar, Clava Brie

farmer Michael Moyden, who

and a Crowdie, the soft cheese

took four years to perfect the

that the Vikings brought to

recipe for his semi-soft Wrekin


Blue, a champion in last year s Heart of England diamond



For much of the 20th century,

Ian Eyres, of the Shropshire

Irish cheese was mainly

Cheese Company, is also ardent

industrial quantities of Cheddar,

about cheeses imbued with the

but then came a revival of

flavour of the deep, deep,

independent cheesemaking.

green grass of the borderlands

Among those inspired was

and the Welsh foothills.

former cheese grader and beef

Marches Blue, balanced

farmer Damian McCloskey and

between the creaminess and a

his wife Susan, of Loughgiel,

piquant blue flavour, is his

near Ballymena in County

greatest love.

Antrim. Their Castlequarter


Cheddar-style is made with milk from farms along the

Talk about Wales and cheese

Northern Irish coast. They also

and you head straight for

have a flavoured selection,

Caerphilly, for its salty, crumbly

including Coolkeeran, made

texture, with a slightly sour tang

with dulse seaweed from

to finish.

Strangford Loch. FF



Cool classics Ice cream comes in endless varieties, but there s no beating the old favourites.


It s simply delicious and it goes with everything, but best of all it goes by itself. TRY: Daisy s Clotted Cream Vanilla made on Hackthorne Farm, where the cows have a view of the sea on the north Cornish coast.


Well, what s not to like? TRY: Made Fair Organic Chocolate from Scottish Cream O Galloway. They wanted to make a sweet chocolate, not too dark and without a trace of bitterness . The chocolate and sugar are Fairtrade.


It can be both zingy as a water ice or sorbet, and scrumptious when you add in some cream. TRY: Duchy Originals Lemon Curd, made with whipping cream and oodles of lovely lemon preserve.


Luxuriate in the taste of English summer all year round. TRY: Moocluck Strawberry made with milk, cream and free-range egg yolks but with less than 100 calories per 100ml serving, a new product from young food entrepreneur Tom Lock. For a sweeter tooth, Simply Ice Cream do a Sublime Strawberry made with Kentish strawberries.

Raspberry ripple

A staple of many a British childhood, this popular family dessert is making a comeback with creamier, fruitier and allnatural versions. TRY: Purbeck Raspberry Ripple from a Dorset ice cream maker. There is now a Banoffee Ripple variant, banana ice cream with ripples of dolce de leche toffee sauce. Also new and for the really adventurous is one of Purbeck s funkier flavours, Beetroot and Horseradish, delicious either sweet with chocolate, or savoury with roast beef!

Brown bread

A wonderful instant evocation of nursery teatimes but in a very grown-up way. TRY: September Dairy Brown Bread from a Herefordshire ice cream maker, which points out that as it s not Italian or American, it doesn t go in for tutti frutti or cookie dough but it does do Elderflower Cream and Blackberry & Apple Crumble!


Subtle and sophisticated... just perfect really. TRY: Pistachio and Almond from Nottinghamshire ice cream people Thaymar for a double nutty treat.



James Martin

Gracing our TV screens every Saturday, James Martin has become one of the nation’s best-loved chefs. Here, he opens up about his early influences in the kitchen, and why home cooking still wins out.


BC’s Saturday Kitchen has undoubtedly made James

me fall in love with cooking,” he recalls. “None of my family were chefs, just

Martin a household name,

great home cooks, using fresh ingredients

and earned him an army of

from the farm and veg plot where I

fans, young and old.

grew up.”

But the Yorkshireman has actually been

It is clear that this home-cooked,

a top chef for many years, having first

family ethos has stayed with him through

been inspired with a career in the kitchen

the years.

at the tender age of eight. Years later, he

“I would love to have learnt and

“I don’t get to see them all as much as I would like so it would be Sunday lunch with the entire family round.” Today, James is best known for presenting BBC’s Saturday Kitchen show, but what would he consider his signature dish? “I don’t really have one but I suppose all who watch the show know I like my

was introduced to the chef world by

cooked more with my late grandmother –

butter,” he admitted. “So my white

Anthony Worrall Thompson, before

her pastry was the best I have ever tasted,”

chocolate and whisky croissant butter

heading to France to hone his trade. At

he said.

pudding would be it if there were one.”

just the age of 21, he was Head Chef at

“She used her hands to make

In a few weeks, James will be heading

the opening of the Hotel and Bistro du Vin

everything and spent hours rubbing

up the Summer Kitchen, at BBC Good

in Winchester, and most recently he has

butter and flour together to make the

Food Show Summer, held at

opened his own venture, Leeds Kitchen.

perfect tasting pastry when she baked.”

Birmingham’s NEC.

first appeared on Ready, Steady, Cook, and

Cooking today

and good food is one of the joys of doing

his star has continued to rise ever since,

While James has worked with some of

a live demo,” he says by way of

both on our TV screens, including a stint

the finest chefs and in some of the top

explanation. “The live on stage show is

on Strictly Come Dancing, and as author

restaurants, he still prefers to go back to

always busy and it’s great to meet people

of a number of books.


who watch Saturday Kitchen and get any

His TV career began in 1996, when he

As James gears up for his appearance

“I always think the best meals are not in

at the forthcoming BBC Good Food Show

restaurants or Michelin star meals, they are

Summer on June 15 to 19, he talks us

when all your family sit round the table

through his passion for good food, his

and enjoy good honest food,” he admitted.

love of home-cooking and why eating at fancy restaurants isn’t everything.

Early inspiration James discovered a love of cooking from an early age, and even back then his passion was for simple, unadulterated food. “I started from about eight years old and it was being surrounded by amazing cooks like my Gran and Mother that really made



“None of my family were chefs, just great home cooks, using fresh ingredients from the farm and veg plot where I grew up.”

“Getting to show people quick, easy

hints and tips from them.” The show also combines BBC Gardeners’ World, something James believes is important – after all, how can we know how to cook well if we don’t know where the ingredients come from? “I love gardening so to me food and gardening is even better, as to understand great food you have to understand where it comes from,” he said. “As well as great small suppliers dotted around the show there is always a gardener near by to tell you how to do stuff right. God knows I need it sometimes.” FF

Visit BBC Good Food Show Summer Fine Foodies has teamed up with the people at BBC Good Food Show Summer to offer our readers the chance to visit for free. We have three pairs of tickets to give away for the show, which takes place from June 15 to 19 at Birmingham s NEC. And it s well worth a visit; not only will James Martin be on hand, hosting Saturday Kitchen Live sessions in the Summer Kitchen, the team from Masterchef will also be on hand to cook up a storm. This includes presenters John Torode and Greg Wallace, along with last year s winner Dhruv Baker, who will all be appearing within the Masterchef Experience. Other names confirmed to appear include presenter and author Rachel Allen, Something for the Weekend s Simon Rimmer and dessert expert, Mary Berry. To enter the competition to win the tickets, email Competition closes on June 1. • Find out more about the show by logging onto



In season

Just add


Spring is here and it s time to rekindle our affection for rhubarb.


espite being widely used in desserts, rhubarb is

fruit from around the world. Rhubarb is an excellent crop to grow

through creamy yoghurt for a quick dessert.

actually a vegetable,

in Britain, enjoying cool climates and

being a member of the

suffering very few pests. It also packs a

pudding? You re in for a treat as its

polygonaceae family and

flavoursome punch at the table. Rhubarb

sharpness also works beautifully

makes a comforting, traditional pudding

with meat and fish. Try serving Jane

topped with crumble mixture and rolled

Baxter s simple Rhubarb Butter Sauce

and through most of the 20th century, but

oats. Later in the season, throw in a few

with an organic salmon fillet. You can

suffered along with many of Britain s

handfuls of strawberries, too, custard

find more recipes and tips on preparing

homegrown, traditional vegetables as

essential! Or make the most of its vibrant

seasonal veg on Riverford s website

supermarkets began to sell out-of-season

colour by swirling stewed rhubarb

related to sorrel.

Rhubarb was popular in Victorian times



Think rhubarb s only good for

Recipes by Jane Baxter, taken from the Riverford Farm Cook Book.

Rhubarb and strawberry crumble Serves 4 Ingredients: • 2-4 rhubarb stalks, cut into slices 2cm thick • 1 punnet strawberries, hulls removed, large ones cut in half • 165g plain flour • 50g soft light brown sugar • 150g rolled oats • 125g unsalted butter Method: • Place the rhubarb in a deep pie dish. Toss the strawberries with a tablespoon of the flour and add to the rhubarb. Sprinkle half the sugar on top. • Put the oats, butter and remaining sugar and flour in a food processor and pulse until the mixture starts to come together. • Spread the crumble over the fruit and bake in an oven preheated to 180° C/Gas Mark 4 for 35 to 40 minutes, until the rhubarb is tender and the crumble is browned. Serve with clotted cream.

Rhubarb butter sauce for fish Serves 6-8

Method: • Put the rhubarb, sugar, orange juice and zest in a pan and cook gently for about 15 minutes, until the rhubarb has broken


down into a purée.

• 500g rhubarb, cut into batons

• Meanwhile, in a separate pan, boil the

• 2tsp sugar

fish stock until volume is reduced by half.

• Juice and grated zest of one orange

Stir in the rhubarb, season and cook for

• 150ml fish stock

five minutes, then push through a sieve

• 40g chilled butter, cut into

into a clean pan.

small pieces • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Just before serving, heat the sauce and whisk in the pieces of butter a few at a time to give a glossy finish. Season to taste.




Home-grown goodness Cook up a feast using your very own produce in season this summer, with help from The Allotment Cookbook Through the Year.

Sweetcorn fritters with tomato salsa Home-grown sweetcorn is so tender that there is no need to cook it before making these fritters. The generous flavours used here will turn your cobs into something the whole family will enjoy. Serves 4 (makes 14-16 fritters) Prep: 20 minutes Cooking: 10 minutes Ingredients: • 2 sweetcorn cobs, around 250g (9oz) • 100g (3 ½oz) self-raising flour • 1tsp baking powder • 2 large eggs • 4tbsp milk • 1tsp smoked paprika • 2 spring onions, finely chopped, green and white parts separated • 4tbsp chopped coriander • 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (optional) • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper • 2tbsp sunflower oil • 2 ripe tomatoes, skinned and roughly chopped • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil • Dash of tabasco or chilli sauce



Method: • Hold the corn upright on a chopping board and, using a sharp knife, cut downwards to shear off the kernels from the husk. • Sift the flour and baking powder into a bowl. Mix the eggs and milk together in a jug, and then gradually whisk them into the flour to make a thick batter. Add the corn, paprika, the white parts of the spring onions, 2tbsp of the coriander, and the chilli (if using). Mix well and season. • Heat the sunflower oil in a large frying pan and add the batter mixture in tablespoonfuls. Use the back of the spoon to spread the fritters out slightly, and fry for two to three minutes on

each side until puffed up and golden brown. Batch fry until all the mixture is cooked, adding a little more sunflower oil as necessary. • Put the tomatoes, the remaining coriander and spring onion, olive oil, and tabasco or chilli sauce into a food processor or blender, and process until blended but still quite chunky. Check the salsa for seasoning and serve the hot fritters with the salsa on the side.


When to pick: Pick sweetcorn when the silky tassels at the top of the plant are withering and brown. Ripe kernels should produce a milky white liquid when pressed. Eat and store fresh. Eat sweetcorn as soon as possible after picking. If you must store it, keep the outer husk intact, and it will stay fresh for two to three days in the fridge. How to preserve: Sweetcorn can be used in chutneys, pickles, and relishes. Freezing options: Cut the sweetcorn off the cob with a sharp knife and blanch for two minutes, then cool and freeze for up to 12 months.

Grilled red bream with tomato and coriander salad This Indian-style fish dish is quick to prepare and cook, making it ideal for entertaining. It can also be made using fillets of sea bass, John Dory, or any other firm, meaty fish. Serves 4 Prep: 15 minutes Cooking: 6-8 minutes Ingredients: • 4 red bream fillets, about 150g (5½oz) each • Lemon wedges, to serve

For the spice rub: • 3tbsp walnut or extra virgin olive oil • 4tbsp chopped coriander • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 1tsp coriander seeds, crushed • 1tsp lemon juice • 1 small green chilli, very finely chopped For the tomato salad: • 4 plum tomatoes, chopped • 1tbsp chopped coriander • 1½ tsp walnut or extra virgin olive oil • 1tbsp walnuts • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method: • Mix together all the ingredients for the spice rub and season with salt. • Line a baking sheet with foil and place the fish fillets on it, skin-side down. Brush the spice rub over the fish. • Place under a hot grill for six to eight minutes, until cooked through and lightly golden. Remove from the heat and keep warm. • Meanwhile, toast the walnuts in a dry frying pan, then lightly crush them, and mix with the rest of the ingredients for the tomato salad. Serve the fish with the salad and some lemon wedges.




Blackberry brioche This is the ultimate in fast desserts, yet it looks impressive and is incredibly tasty. It is pleasing to think that an afternoon s blackberry picking can give such rewarding results. Serves 4 Prep: 5 minutes Cooking: 10 minutes Ingredients: • 50g (1 3⁄4oz) butter • 50g (1 3⁄4oz) caster sugar • 400g (14oz) blackberries • 4-8 slices of brioche • 200g (7oz) mascarpone cheese

Method: • Melt the butter in a frying pan. Add the sugar and allow it to melt and start to turn golden brown, shaking the pan to dissolve the sugar. • Add the blackberries to the pan and allow them to cook over high heat for two to three minutes, until they are heated through and softened, but have not broken up. Leave the berries to cool slightly while you toast the slices of brioche. • Thickly spread the mascarpone over the slices of toasted brioche and top with the sugary, fried berries. Spoon over any excess juice that is left in the pan and serve with mascarpone.


When to pick: Pick blackberries when the fruits are dark purple, glossy, and sweet to taste. Slightly under-ripe berries are better for making jam. Eat and store fresh if eating raw, use blackberries within two days of picking and eat at room temperature. If cooking, they will keep for up to three days in the fridge before using. How to preserve: Preserve blackberries in jams or jellies. Wild blackberries are often woody, and are better made into jelly. They can also be used in chutneys and fruit cheeses. Freezing options: Open freezer whole on trays, as a cooked or uncooked purée, as a freezer jam or blanched or poached in sugar syrup.

The Allotment Cookbook Through the Year, by Caroline Bretherton, is published by DK, £16.99, Available from all good bookshops and from




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Fish feast C J Jackson shows us how to cook using some of the most sustainable fish and seafood.

Thai crab cakes These make a delicious starter, or transform into a main course with rice noodles. The fish: White crab meat, or salmon Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus chilling Cook: 5-10 minutes Makes 20 Ingredients: • 500g (1lb 2oz) white crab meat • 115g (4oz) green beans, trimmed and finely chopped • 1 green or red chilli, deseeded and very finely chopped



Prepare ahead

The crab cakes can be assembled, covered, and chilled up to one day ahead. The flavours will deepen. Return them to room temperature before continuing.

• 1tsp lemongrass purée • Finely grated zest of 1 lime • 1tbsp Thai fish sauce • 1tbsp finely chopped Chinese chives or garlic chives • 1 egg white, lightly beaten • Plain flour, to dust • Vegetable oil, for deep-frying • Lime wedges, to serve Method: • Flake the crab meat into a bowl, picking it over carefully to remove any small, sharp pieces of shell. Mix in the green beans, chilli,

lemongrass purée, lime zest, fish sauce, and chives. • Add the egg white, stirring to bind the mixture together. Dust your hands with flour and shape the mixture into 20 small balls. Flatten them slightly into round cakes, place on a plate or board, spaced slightly apart so they don t stick together, and chill for one hour, or until firm. • Heat the oil to 160° C (325° F) in a large pan or deep-fat fryer. Dust the cakes with flour and deep-fry them in batches for three minutes, or until golden. Drain on a plate lined with kitchen paper and serve with lime wedges.


This Spanish rice dish has many regional variations. This marinera version contains a delicious mix of seafood. The fish: Tiger prawns, squid, Dublin Bay prawns, cockles, or any mixed seafood Preparation time: 10 minutes Cook: 30 minutes Serves 4 Ingredients: • 1.2 litres (2 pints) hot fish stock • Large pinch of saffron threads • 2tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 2 large tomatoes, skinned and diced • 12 raw tiger prawns, peeled and deveined • 225g (8oz) squid, gutted, cleaned, and sliced into rings • 400g (14oz) paella rice • 85g (3oz) peas • 4 Dublin Bay prawns, or very large raw tiger prawns • 12-16 mussels, prepared • 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Method: • Pour a little of the hot stock into a jug, add the saffron, and set aside. Heat the oil in a large frying or paella pan, and fry the onion and garlic until softened. Add the tomatoes, cook for two minutes, then add the king prawns and squid for one to two minutes. • Stir in the rice, saffron liquid, peas, and 900ml (11⁄2 pints) of stock. Simmer, uncovered, without stirring, over a low heat for 12-14 minutes, or until the stock has evaporated and the rice is just tender, adding extra stock if necessary. • Meanwhile, cook the Dublin Bay prawns in 150ml (5fl oz) simmering stock for three to four minutes, or until cooked through. Transfer to a warm plate with a slotted spoon. Tap the

mussels and discard any that do not close. Add the mussels to the stock, cover, and cook over a high heat for two to three minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, discarding any that have not opened. • Reserve eight mussels for garnish. Remove the rest from their shells and stir into the paella. Arrange the reserved mussels and Dublin Bay prawns on top, and garnish with parsley.




Deep-fried haddock in beer batter Skin on or off is down to personal taste, though purists say it should be removed. The fish: Haddock, or any white fish, such as cod, pollock, coley, tilapia, or smoked haddock (a revelation). Preparation time: 10 minutes Cook: 7-10 minutes Serves 4 Ingredients: • Oil for deep-frying • 4 haddock fillets, about 175-225g (6-8oz) each, pinboned and skinned • 4tbsp seasoned flour



For the batter: • 115g (4oz) plain flour • 1tsp baking powder • ½tsp salt • 250-300ml (8-10fl oz) pale ale • Salt and freshly ground black pepper Method: • Sift the plain flour, baking powder, and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add half the ale. Gradually stir in the flour so the batter remains smooth. As it thickens, blend in more ale until the batter is the consistency of single cream, and season. • Heat the oil to 180° C (350° F) in a large pan or deep-fat fryer. Dust the fish with seasoned

flour. Using tongs, lower the fish into the batter to coat completely, then lift out and let any excess drip back into the bowl. Swish the fish through the hot oil to allow the batter to start to set, then let the fish go. • Fry for seven to 10 minutes or until the batter is golden brown. Lift the fish on to kitchen paper and sprinkle with salt. Serve with chips and tartare sauce.

Fish Cookbook, by CJ Jackson, is published by DK, £20, Available from all good bookshops and from from May 1.

Global foodie



Lindy Wildsmith takes us on a journey through her love of Italian food.


verybody the world over

out of the Mediterranean, as do the

loves eating Italian; there are

Western coastal regions. The Eastern

communities of Italians and

regions, meanwhile, dip their toes in the

consequently Italian

Adriatic and strings of enchanting islands

restaurants, wherever you go.

thread both shores. Lakes punctuate and

Pizza, pasta, prosciutto, Parmesan,

streams criss-cross the country, therefore

pecorino, pesto, mascarpone, mozzarella,

assuring abundant seafood, salt water and

ricotta and risotto are as familiar around

freshwater fish everywhere.

the world as they are to the Italians. However, this is only the tip of their

Nature’s bounty

culinary iceberg.

Italy is, culturally, a rich and diverse

Eating in Italy is a constant source of

country; it has seen invasions from land

surprise and delight, for the food changes

and sea from all points of the compass,

according to where you are; every hamlet,

peoples bringing with them not only their

village, valley, town, city and region has its

cultures but also their food.

own specialities and as if this were not

All of this has influenced not only the

enough it also changes with the seasons,

knew nothing – there was not a dish on it

Italian people but the diversity of the

creating a dynamic landscape of food to

that I recognised.

buona tavola, or good food.


An Italian journey

Italy divides itself into North and South,

Since that far-off year in Bologna, I lived

geographically, politically and culturally.

in Rome for many years and travelled

Agriculturally speaking the former is, on

extensively the length and breadth of the

Over 30 years ago, I went to Bologna, in

the whole, a rich land, and the latter poor.

peninsula and I am still discovering new

Italy, where I lived for a year. I was

This translates in culinary terms as plenty

dishes, new produce and new attitudes to

fortunate to live with Tina Monetti, who

of meat of all kinds and dairy produce


was a wonderful cook – she rolled a

bolstered by pasta, beans and vegetables

Much is vaunted these days about

sfoglia (home-made egg pasta) nearly

in the North, and vegetables, cereals and

seasonal local produce but compared to

every day and on high days and holidays

legumes enhanced with extra virgin olive

Italy, we can barely pay lip service to the

she folded and stuffed tiny tortellini by

oil, fragrant herbs, copious amounts of

concept. Every city and small town in Italy

the score to serve, as was traditional “in

innovation and small amounts of meat

has its street market that brings the smell

brodo”. Her meat sauces bubbled on the

such as lamb and goat in the South.

and freshness of the country to its streets

stove for hours on end, she concocted

The country is further divided into

and squares. Street after street of stall after

roasts layered with vegetables, and

regions; from the mountainous areas in

stall, after stall sells the same ultra-fresh

omelettes and salumi, she boned and

the North such as land-locked Trentino

produce, still adorned with the morning

stuffed chickens and pan-fried fennel with

Alto Adige, where winters are cold, to the

dew, heavy with just-picked fragrance.

parmesan cheese.

southernmost sunny Calabria in the toe.

The stallholders come from outside of

Each region has its valleys and gentle

town, from a belt of smallholdings, neat

later I thought I knew everything there

hillsides providing micro-climates and

patchworks of green stitched earth bright

was to know about Italian food. Not so! A

wonderful and often unique produce. The

with every variety of salad leaf and

first glance at a menu swiftly told me I

stately islands of Sardinia and Sicily rise

vegetable, some of which are unique to

By the time I moved to Rome a year



that area. This means that the produce is

The choice of produce that is on offer is

Sea influence

literally picked hours before it is sold. Often

further extended by the many varieties

Seasonality is not just about fruit and

stallholders and growers are one and the

that are commonly grown and come and

vegetables. The Italian respects the

same – no middleman or wholesaler

go, according to the time of year. In the

seasons of the sea as well. Go to Sicily in

involved and certainly very few food miles.

Rialto markets in Venice in spring,

spring and you will find it is the Riccio

stallholders sit all day from early morning,

season; time for sea-urchins and every

design that is Italian food – the wild

laboriously preparing barrel loads of little

restaurant has them on the menu, either

mushrooms of autumn and winter, the

purple artichokes to sell, ready for the pot,

to eat like a boiled egg with a spoon or

fresh herbs and flowers of spring and

and you can be sure every Venetian eatery

taken out of their shells and their silky flesh

summer, the white and black truffles. Go

will have them on the menu.

spooned through pasta – love them or

Nature also plays its part in the grand

to Sicily in spring and you will be

Francesco Mazzei, well-known London-

loathe them you can’t avoid them but

enchanted by the long tender strands of

based Italian chef of the L’Anima

come back any other time of year and

wild asparagus that pop up on every

restaurant, sums Italian food up like this: “It

you’d be hard pressed to find them.

menu – go in early summer and they will

is versatile, you can eat it everyday, and it is

have gone to ground, not to be seen

affordable to everyone...if you follow the

crawling all over each other in a market in

again for another year.

seasons, of course.”

Padua more than 30 years ago, and it was

I discovered delicious soft-shelled crabs



Global foodie not until years later that I happened to be back at just the right time of year to enjoy them again. Take the food of Royal Piedmont, the land of truffles with everything, from fried eggs and fondue to risottos and steak tartare. There are cardi – cardoons, bollito misto – mixed boiled meats beyond your wildest dreams, stews braised in Barolo wine, and game cooked to perfection. The bagna caöda, a walnut oil-based fondue heavily impregnated with garlic and anchovy, is used for dipping the cardi and other vegetables typical of the area. It is also the home of genteel biscuits such as baci di dama and savoiardi, the luscious gianduia cake and zabaione. Moving directly south we find ourselves in forever-spring Liguria, a mountainous region that stretches along the coast from the French Riviera, renowned for its fine climate, early flowers, delicate olive oil, fragrant basil, herbs, abundant vegetables and wild mushrooms. The sea there is teeming with seafood and fish but there is little in the way of meat, except rabbits and chickens – although rabbits and chickens cooked to perfection. Here they waste nothing. Melt-in-themouth tarts sold by the slice are filled with greens, herbs and pine nuts, golden focaccia bread is anointed with oil and rosemary, the pissadella, a distinctive pizza unique to the town of Oneglia, is sparsely spread with tomato, anchovy and onion, and trenette (thin tagliatelle) is coated in pesto. Ravioli are filled with herbs, left-over fish and vegetables. Then there are the myriad fish and vegetable antipasti, the fish stews known as brodetti, the stock fish and salt cod dishes and the triumphant U Cappun Magru, a salad of fish and vegetables. Now let’s travel to Puglia, the sun-dried

Then there is a plethora of handmade

roasted al cartoccio with olives and the

heel of Italy, queen of antipasti consisting

pasta shapes such as cavatieddi and

local onion variety lampasciuoli, lamb with

of all kinds of cured meats such as

orecchiette dressed in the magical oil of

peas, sweet and sour lamb and simple

capocollo from Martina Franca, cheeses to

the region, tossed with greens and

chargrilled lamb chops. Almonds provide

dream of from Gioia del Colle, mozzarellas

vegetables, with fat mussels, tender squid

exquisite speciality cakes and biscuits.

so soft and creamy you just want to dive

and flavourful black octopus sauces.

into them, vegetables preserved in oil, and

When, and if, you should tire of the

This is just a small helping of what the Italian regions have to offer and the charm

sweet oregano from the Gargano, torte

abundant fish that is available, the pasture

is that you can go back over and over

rustiche farmhouse pies, oysters,

land of Puglia provides ample lamb and

again and still find something new,

tantalising fish and vegetable dishes, all

the resourceful cook umpteen ways of

something you never knew existed, and

served with glorious bread.

cooking it – lamb hunter’s style, lamb

something to set your palate dancing. FF




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Global foodie

Recipes Rainbow trout, leaf and berry salad This is how Trentino chef Rinaldo Dalsasso serves his home-cured smoked trout. If you don t smoke your own, buy a side of cold-smoked trout or salmon and slice it

Roselline del Pilastro al Francesco – rolled pork fillet with Parma ham and sage

paper thin yourself. Perfect

This is a great recipe to impress family and

for summer eating!

friends. It can be prepared in advance to the stage of adding the stock and finished when


ready to serve ‒ speciality of the

• 200g cold smoked rainbow

Masticabrodo restaurant near Parma.

trout, cut into 5mm slices • 120g sweet salad leaves

Serves 4

• Handful of rocket leaves

• 4 sage sprigs

open out flat to make a single slice of meat.

• Handful of small strawberries

• 2 thyme sprigs

• Sprinkle with some of the Parmesan cheese

• 2 rosemary sprigs

and freshly ground black pepper, lay a slice of

• 2 garlic cloves

Parma ham on the top of each, sprinkle with

olive oil (preferably from

• 100ml extra virgin olive oil

Parmesan cheese and black pepper and put a

Lake Garda)

• 2 pork tenderloins

sage leaf on top. Roll each piece of pork up, dip

• 100g Parmesan cheese, grated

in seasoned flour and shake off the excess and

• 4 slices Parma ham

then secure with cocktail sticks.

• Plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

• Heat a frying pan, and when hot add some of

• 100ml cognac

the infused oil and the rolls of meat and brown

and or raspberries • 3 tablespoons extra virgin

• Few drops of good quality balsamic vinegar • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 150ml stock

quickly all over. Add the cognac and cook until


• 200ml double cream

evaporated, then add the remaining oil, herbs

• Divide the smoked trout

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

and garlic and stock. Reduce the heat and cook

slices between four serving

• Equipment: 8 cocktail sticks

for seven minutes.

plates and a grinding of black

• Transfer the meat to a dish to rest. Top each roll

pepper over all.


with a sage leaf. Pull out the cocktail sticks and

• Combine the salad leaves

• Put two sage sprigs and the other herbs and

discard. Add the cream, if using, to the pan and

and berries in a salad bowl.

garlic in a shallow dish and cover with olive oil.

simmer gently for five minutes. Strain and serve

Add the olive oil and balsamic

Leave to infuse in a warm place in the kitchen for

poured over the meat. Serve with mashed celeriac.

vinegar, season with salt and

an hour or so.

black pepper and toss lightly.

• Trim and then cut the pork tenderloins in half,

Arrange alongside the smoked

discarding the ragged ends, creating four equal

trout and serve at once.

portions. Cut each tenderloin piece through the middle lengthways, but do not cut into two ‒



Recipes from Lindy Wildsmith s latest book, Cured: salted, spiced, dried, smoked, potted, pickled, raw, shortlisted for the Andre Simon Award. Photographer Simon Wheeler. Jacqui Small publishing (£30).



THE GRAIN & THE GRAPE 50MLS VALT VODKA 25MLS PINOT GRIGIO 25MLS PRESS APPLE JUICE BAR SPOON OF SUGAR SYRUP OR LAVENDER SYRUP Add all the ingredients into a boston and shake well. Strain into a collins glass. Top up with crushed ice and garnish with green and red grapes.



Muddle Sage and Strawberries into a boston glass, add all the other ingredients and shake well. Double strain into a martini glass and garnish with a strawberry slice and Sage leaf.

Muddle the cucumber rind, valt vodka, elderflower cordial and lychee juice in a boston glass and shake well. Strain into a chilled flute glass and top up with champagne. Garnish with a slice of cucumber. Splash Champagne.

Valt is available from Bibendum spirits, Gordon and McPhail, Stellar brands and William Morton

Drinks update

Drink up Chill with Chai

As the summer beckons, the people at Drink Me Chai have created a way to enjoy your chai latte, even in the hot weather. Simply blend together some Spiced Chai powder, ice cold milk and ice for the perfect quick iced chai latte. And, if you’re feeling really indulgent, why not dollop in some ice cream for a dreamy Chai Latte shake? If you fancy a different flavour, in addition to their Spiced and Vanilla Chai Latte, Drink Me Chai has also just launched new flavours including Chocolate, Mango and last but not least, Peppermint.

BrEwINg a NEw IDEa New collaborations have seen Otley Brewing Company create a number of limited edition beers. The award-winning, family-run business has teamed up with some of the world’s most well-respected beer writers; Adrian Tierney Jones, Pete Brown, Melissa Cole and Roger Protz. Together, they will jointly brew unique style beers. First up has been influential beer-writer Pete Brown, who tried his hand at creating an Imperial Russian stout with ginger.


FINE FOODIES May/june 2011

Look out for... = John and Kim Coulson transformed a derelict Cornish farm and outbuildings into a thriving vineyard and orchard, Polygoon. The most recent addition to the range is its first rosé, with a burst of Cornish strawberries, cherries and summer fruits. = Boasting an uplifting grapefruit flavour and floral hop aroma, Badger’s new Hopping Hare ale is perfect as we move into warmer weather. Lightly golden and with a crisp refreshing taste, it’s particularly good with spicy Thai dishes, fish dishes or roast lamb.

Drinks update

noT your average vodka

Drinking vodka has been given an incredibly stylish twist with the creation of Valt. Valt is a brand created by two friends who were both living in New York. One day, they were reminiscing about home and by the end had come up with an idea to create a vodka made by Scottish distillers, using only Scottish barley and Scottish mountain water. And so Valt, involving a quintuple micro-distillation process, was born, described by the founders as having a nose of barley sugar and cream, with a taste of sweet vanilla ice cream and a warm, melting butter finish.

Summer sipping

If you’re after some refreshment in the warmer weather, try a combination of pomegranate and rose. That’s what the people at Five Valleys Cordials have done as part of a new range of drinks they’ve created, which are perfect mixed with still or sparkling water. As well as Pomegranate and Rose, other combinations are Apricot and Ginger, and Lemon and Mint. For the more adventurous, the cordials can be added to cocktails, marinades, as a cooking ingredients to fruit crumbles, or even made into ice lollies.

diary date Look out for Natural Wine Fortnight, taking place between May 9 to 22. This brand new initiative is designed to promote natural wines in the UK, which also sees the Natural Wine Fair take place.


FINE FOODIES May/june 2011

The cocktail master JJ Goodman was one half of a duo who won the 2008 series of The Restaurant. He went on to open The London Cocktail Club, and joins Fine Foodies as our resident mixologist.

The greaT BriTish desserT The Sunday roast has always been a big affair in my house. In fact, you could say it’s been more of a ritual. To go with that there are, of course, the thousand questions that plague our every move at the table such as leg or breast? Mint sauce or mint jelly? How much bread sauce can one fit in one’s mouth before the rest of our guests start to grimace? (leg... jelly...lots! and yes it’s worth it!) There was always a lot of trading between Yorkshire puds and cauliflower cheese but when it got to the end of the meal there was no hesitation or was pudding time! Now, everyone is entitled to their favourites, but the luxury in our house was that without question, the unanimous vote always fell to the king of great British deserts; the crumble. Which brings me onto... Bramley apple crumble martini. ‘Really?’ I hear you scream. Have a little faith my Padawans, this drink is guaranteed to rock your socks off! Ingredients: • 2 spoons of your homemade Bramley apple sauce • 2 teaspoons of vanilla sugar • 2 tablespoons of Demerara sugar

• 20ml lemon juice • Pinch nutmeg • 25ml brandy • 1 small egg, whole Method: • Rough chop your apple and put it on half heat with two tablespoons of Demerara and cook until sauced. Leave to chill. • For the custard, place one whole egg and two teaspoons of vanilla sugar in a cocktail shaker. • Add 2 tablespoons of the apple sauce and 25ml of your preferred spirit (cognac works great with this one). • Add 20ml of lemon juice, a pinch of nutmeg, top with cubed ice and shake. • It will take 15 seconds at least for the yolk to emulsify before you can strain it into a chilled glass. • Garnish with a twist of lemon, sprinkle of nutmeg and a big fat piece of short bread (that or a digestive will do nicely). • Heaven in a glass!

Fine Foodie hero


t would be safe to

Martin at the orphanage Imporient Tea supports

assume that the Graham family is one of the most committed groups of tea drinkers.

The company is also doing its bit for the next generation living in the Pfunda area. “We have helped to rebuild an orphanage in the area in

The tea trade has been a

Rwanda in collaboration with

part of the Graham family for

the Point Foundation,” Martin

some 140 years, now in its fifth


generation, making it one of

So, what can Imporient Tea

the oldest in the UK to still

offer tea drinkers that is

grow and produce its own tea.


Dating back to the 1800s, the Graham family was initially involved in tea trading. Birchall George Graham went to India as an officer with the Duke of Wellington’s Regiment, returning to England after 18 years. In 1872, he went back to India, joining his brother,

“What makes us unique as a

Martin Graham

Fine Foodies celebrates those making great food. Here, we talk to Martin Graham, of Imporient Tea.

UK independent company that deals with tea from the point of origin to the point of sale,” he explained, adding: “We grow the tea, process it, bag it, taste it and pack it.” The company’s premium

Robert Fuller Graham, and

Martin Graham is the

used his savings to make a

nephew of David, and also

“Rwanda produces really

living by planting tea in

works for the business, and

fantastic tea – it is not famous

bought out a range of herbal

Darjeeling. Robert was a

admits: “I’m not a coffee

for it but it is amazing because

teas that are also attracting

founder member of the

drinker, I’ve always been a tea

it has such an amazing flavour.


Darjeeling Tea Association and

drinker. I really love tea and I

It also has a very bright colour,”

lived in India for most of his life.

guess you would expect for all

Martin explained.

Birchall’s son, Herbert, also planted tea in Darjeeling while

the family to be into tea. “There was such an appeal

from Kenya and Rwanda.

company is that we are the last

In fact, at the Pfunda Tea Estate alone the company

blend black tea is the most popular, but they have recently

Yet with the influx of many high street coffee shops, it could be said that tea drinking has suffered a bit.

Herbert’s brother Charles was a

in joining a company that

produces in the region of 1.5

part owner of the Lingia Tea

previous generations of my

million kilos of tea.

Company in Darjeeling. Then

family had been involved in,

Edward Graham, the father of

and it is such an interesting

much further than simply

current chairman David, went

trade to be in, one that is

producing good quality tea.

choice when it comes to

to India as an officer in the Sikh

heavily linked to British history.”

For Imporient Tea has a heavy

coffee but I think the trend is

commitment to the local

swinging back to tea now –

through the family business,

communities out there and

people are seeing there’s a lot

becoming a tea taster before

sustainability. They have their

more to tea – it is actually

Imporient Tea was established

deciding to branch out on his

own factories in Rwanda and

something that can really be

by the fourth generation,

own, and Imporient Tea was

Kenya, and co-own the tea

enjoyed if it is good quality.”

David Graham. His sons, Daniel

born. The brand specialises in

plantation in the Pfunda region

and Tresham, are both

high quality tea

in Rwanda, ensuring that

to come by, as Martin

involved in the business too.

sourced mainly

communities get higher


Regiment and stayed in India to plant tea. It wasn’t until 1974 that

David learnt the trade

But the business extends

yields for their crops.



But Martin believes tea will always have a place in the heart of Brits. “People have been spoilt for

But quality tea can be hard

“It’s very difficult to find

“We own the majority

good quality English breakfast

of the estate and the local

tea on the market. The biggest

co-operatives also have a

surprise when I joined was

stake in it,” Martin

finding there is so much to tea

explained. “And as we see this

making – it is very similar to

as a skilled job we have built

wine in that sense. It is so

staff housing there because

complex to produce tea and

prior to that, people were

there are many things to

living in shacks and under

consider – origin, taste, and the


leaf.” FF

Fine Foodies May/June 2011  

The magazine for lovers of good food

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