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Fine Foodies AUTUMN 2012

Passionate about good food Picrkfurp ee you ie fooadzine mag INTERVIEW

The Fisherman’s apprentice MONTY HALLS ON HIS MISSION TO SAFEGUARD THE UK S FISHING HERITAGE

Plus:

AUTUMN 2012

 SOUTH AMERICAN FLAVOURS  INDULGENT TREATS  ON THE ROAD TO GERMANY

Just desserts

MOUTH-WATERING DISHES TO SATISFY ANY SWEET TOOTH


Welcome

Fine Foodies Passionate about good food

Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Essex CM22 6HJ Telephone: 01279 816300 www.finefoodiesmag.com Editor: Rachel Symonds e: editor@finefoodiesmag.com t: 01279 810088 Contributors: Jennifer Britt, Jane Baxter, Sofie Dittman Group Commercial Manager: Ruth Gilmour e: ruth.gilmour@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810084 Senior Sales Executive: James Kirk e: james.kirk@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810068 Production Daniella Randazzo e: daniella.randazzo@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810097 Design Clare Holland e: clare.holland@targetpublishing.com Administration/Distribution Amy Robinson e: amy.robinson@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810072 Accounts Lorraine Evans e: lorraine.evans@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 816300 Managing Director David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com

ISSN 2046-438X

T

he word sustainable is defined as conserving an ecological balance by avoiding depletion of natural resources, and is a term we hear so frequently today, applied to so many different aspects of our lives. From the foods we eat and the products we clean the house with, to our responsibility to recycle, we are constantly told of the need to live sustainably. But in reality, how do we truly live a sustainable lifestyle? There are actually many simple ways that we can do this, one of which is through our every day buying habits. This is especially the case when it comes to fish. We are in serious danger of losing important species of fish, which are becoming critically endangered, in part, because of this nation s eating habits. It is a topic that we cover in this issue of Fine Foodies in our interview with the popular TV presenter, Monty Halls. Fresh from his experience living in a Cornish fishing village, where he worked for eight months as a fisherman s apprentice, Monty talked to me about the need for all of us to try and be a bit more sustainable in our shopping choices. Monty s passion for the subject is obvious, and when you consider the facts, you can see why we could all do with taking a similar approach; 50 per cent of the fish we consume comes from just four types of fish, and if this pattern continues we could soon be in a truly concerning situation. If we all made some simple changes to the way we eat ‒ seeking out different types of fish, for example ‒ then this can have a really positive overall impact. How do you approach your buying when it comes to fish? And what influences your purchasing choices? I d be keen to hear your thoughts so why not email me at editor@finefoodiesmag.com And don t forget that you can join the Fine Foodies community at Twitter (@finefoodies) or search for us on facebook.

Rachel

RACHEL SYMONDS

Published by Target Publishing Limited. Printed in the UK by The Magazine Printing Company plc www.magprint.co.uk ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material in accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004.

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

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Fine Foodies

Contents Passionate about good food

12 COvEr StOry

12

Monty Halls The popular TV personality tells Fine Foodies why we all have a responsibility to safeguard the UK’s fishing industry

FEaturES

20

Food Focus Autumn indulgence – as the cold season approaches, Jennifer Britt discovers some sumptuous ways to warm up

AUTUMN 2012

36

26 26

Recipe Inject a flavour of South America into your culinary offering

30

Recipe Become skilled at dessert making with the help of Phillippa Sibley

36

Global foodie Germany’s food heritage is explored by Sofie Dittman

36 32 20

rEgularS

8 10 18

Shelf life Explore the latest products in store

30 24

In season What’s ideal for eating and cooking with at

Foodie bites Latest news from the world of fine food

UK fare Fine Foodies explores all that Lincolnshire has to offer

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012

this time of year? Riverford Organic tells all

40

Drink up From wines and cocktail ideas to the newest hot drinks

42

Fine Foodie hero Nirma K. Sethia, founder of Newby Teas


Letters

Your foodies COLD PRESSED RAPESEED OIL EXPLAINED

TEMPT THE TASTEBUDS

Sta Letterr

I was interested to read the article Take time to taste (News, Fine Foodies, Summer) as I have a tomato tasting every year ‒ this year I am growing 56 varieties ‒ and all first timers are very suspicious; a tomato is a tomato, surely, they all taste the same, they say. They are astonished to discover the wide variety of flavours; sweet baby girl cherry bears no resemblance to the dark luscious taste of Black Aisberg, for example, and also the very real flavour compared to those you can buy from a supermarket. I am doing my bit to re-educate and I hope the campaign is successful. ANNE MCGRATH, THE BELL & BIRDTABLE, WELLINGTON, SOMERSET

After reading a letter in the summer edition of Fine Foodies magazine (An Oil Change, by Charles Mapleston) I was disappointed to see that you feel that £4.50/500ml was not good value compared to the bottle you bought for £1.69. The reason for the difference in price is that it is a completely different product. For example, Cotswold Gold uses a cold pressing method, which keeps the health benefits and the unique light nutty taste with the vibrant golden colour that British cold pressed rapeseed oil is proud to shout about. Yes, rapeseed is grown around the country and may well be around your house this year, but just because we see lots of yellow fields does not mean it is cheap to grow. This year, due to the world harvest struggling, the price of rapeseed has increased dramatically. Rapeseed has gone from £260/tn two years ago to £410/tn today. I strongly urge you to support British rapeseed oil as compared to a comparable Extra Virgin Olive Oil (£8/500ml and above). It offers many health benefits and is a very versatile British oil. CHARLIE BELDAM, DIRECTOR OF COTSWOLD GOLD

Star letter – could it be you?

TWEET CORNER Fine Foodies asked the twitter-world what they were having for lunch...

MIKE CRAIG@MIKEC12

Very boring, a couple of salad rolls, little gem lettuce and toms from my allotment, and a banana. HOLLY AND THE IVY @MRPRESERVE

Liver cooked in garlic and fresh orange juice and sweet potato mash. LA HOGUE FARM@ LAHOGUEFARM

Do you have something that you d like to share with other readers, something that will inspire them, encourage them to visit their local store or is just good news? We d love to hear from you. And, of course, we d also like your comments about the magazine. The winner of this month s Star Letter will receive a box of Chocolate Peppermint Creams, courtesy of Summerdown Mint. Summerdown grows and harvests the rare, traditional Black Mitcham peppermint and distils the pure mint oil on its farm in the foothills of the Hampshire downs. This single estate quality oil has a highly distinctive and smooth taste and is used in the manufacture of its award-winning peppermint products, including the Chocolate Peppermint Creams, a gold star winner in the Great Taste Awards 2012, 2011 and 2010. Write to: Rachel Symonds, Editor, Fine Foodies, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ or email editor@finefoodiesmag.com

One of our giant homemade scotch eggs. @MARYQUICKE

Raw cheddar and traditional Ewes Milk Cheddar @PETERSYARD

Crisp breads ;0).

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012


News update

Photo: Museum of London

Foodie bites ExplorE cookEry through thE agEs

The British Museum is offering visitors a fascinating insight into food from the Roman era through to the Victorian period. A new series of cookery workshops is being run between September and December, in which the public will be given the opportunity to prepare ancient recipes and taste bygone dishes, such as Roman fish sauce. Sally Grainer and Annie Gray, both chefs and food historians, will guide visitors through historic flavours and fashions of four periods; Roman, Anglo-Saxon, Georgian, and Victorian. Everything from table etiquette forgotten recipes and drinks of that era will be explored, culminating in enjoying the culinary spread at the end. • Find out more at www.museumoflondon.org.uk

An Autumn oF Foodie FestivAls This autumn plays host to a plethora of food festivals across the UK. In Oxfordshire, Raymond Blanc is among the names on the line-up for the Thame Food Festival. Taking place on September 29, the event features 100 stallholders, a pop-up pub, and a cookery theatre. Raymond will be signing copies of his books at the Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons stall, there will be the popular Thame Tart competition, while the Smoothie Bike Hire, with a custom built smoothiemaking bicycle promoting healthy eating, will be in attendance. Then there is Arundel Food Festival, being held from October 20-28, which involves the whole of the West Sussex town. Events include a farmer’s market, tastings, a cheese demonstration, wild food foraging tours as well as the Sussex Gourmet Vintage Bus Tour. Or head to the island of Bryher, on the Scilly Isles, where the Tresco and Bryher Food and Drink Festival takes place on September 15 and 16. Cookery demonstrations run by Hell Bay Hotel will be taking place, while on the neighbouring island of Tresco there will be pizza making workshops and cake making demos.

Fire up your inspiration in the kitchen A new cookbook aims to inspire people to cook with a wood-fired oven. Holly and David Jones, based at Manna from Devon Cooking School, have penned the new Wood-Fired Oven Cookbook, which is packed full of helpful tips, photography and easy to follow recipes, which can be cooked either in a wood-fired or conventional oven. Cooking with a wood-fired oven is a new trend in the UK, growing in popularity thanks to famous fans such as Jamie Oliver, as it is fantastic for cooking pizzas and breads, as well as slow-cooked casseroles. As well as the cookbook, the school also hosts a course to teach about wood-fired ovens and how to cook with them.

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012


DIScOvErINg WalES’ FINESt Prince Charles’ favourite cheese and cake and the newly-crowned Best Restaurant in Wales are just some of the delights to discover on a series of new foodie trails. Carmarthenshire has created three new mapped trails in a bid to showcase the region as a great destination for a food holiday and to offer an insight into its agricultural landscape. Visit www.discovercarmarthenshire.com/ food-trails, where you can find guides to the best food producers from farm shops, pie shops, delis and pubs. There are also some treats on there too, such as visiting Etta Richardson’s Bakery, whose fruitcake impressed Prince Charles so much he ordered eight for Christmas, where to find Wales’ best laverbread, and the chance to discover a remote artisan brewery.

IN The rUNNINg A spicy chutney is in the running for a nationwide award. The Hot Runner, from the Pickled Village, is taking on the competition in the Carlsberg UK Food & Drink Awards in the Local Product of the Year category. The Hot Runner is a hot mustardy runner bean chutney, ideal for summer salads, pork terrines or a ham sandwich.

BrITAIN’s BesT

The cream of the UK’s restaurants has been revealed, with Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck leading the list. The Good Food Guide 2013 is published in September, listing Britain’s top 50 restaurants, which are awarded a cooking score out of 10. Chef Simon Rogan’s Cumbrian eatery L’Enclume joins Heston Blumenthal as one of only two restaurants in the UK to achieve a perfect 10 rating, taking second place in the list, behind The Fat Duck.

Rogan commented: “We are over the moon and never in my wildest dreams did I think we would get the maximum score. It’s brilliant for the team as now we are among a very elite company of people who have achieved this status but we will continue to push forward with all the projects we have going on up here and try our best to make it even better.” Taking third place was Restaurant Sat Bains, in Nottinghamshire, while Restaurant Gordon Ramsey remained in fourth.

Sustainable fishing at heart of festival With issues around sustainable fishing never far from the news, a forthcoming festival aims to educate people about changing their eating habits. Michelin-rated chef Dev Biswal is to showcase sustainable cuttlefish at the forthcoming Hastings Seafood & Wine Festival, being held on September 15 and 16, and Broadstairs Food Festival, on October 5-7. Throughout the two weekends, he will be encouraging people to try cuttlefish, which, despite its name is not fish but cephalods, from the same family as squid and octopus, as well as less popular types of fish, whose stocks are at a healthy level. “Speaking to local fishermen, it appears there’s very little local demand for cuttlefish,” Dev said. “One – who catches them in special pots with no by-catch – exports them to Italy, where they are prized as a delicacy. It’s a great shame as they’re in plentiful supply along this stretch of the English Channel.”

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

9


Product news

Shelf Life WHAT S NEW IN THE WORLD OF GREAT-TASTING FOOD

LOVELY LEAVES

A range of on-the-go salad bowls has been created by Steve s Leaves. The growers at the company, founded by Dr Steve Rothwell, have mixed their baby leaves with mini pots of dressing to create the new bowls. Varieties include BLT Salad with Quail s Eggs and Caesar Dressing, and Wasabi Rocket Salad with Ginger & Chilli Croutons and a Miso Dressing. Washed in only pure spring water, the bowls serve two to four people on the side or a healthy meal for one.

GOING FOR GOLD

SLOEMotion has scooped gold for its Damson Chutney. The chutney, made using gin-enriched fruit from their Damson Gin making process, was awarded a one star Great Taste Award. The spirit-infused damsons are gently cooked with apples, plums and raisins, finished with a mix of herbs and spices.

Eastern inspiration

A new range of oils from rapeseed specialist Great Ness is ideal for Easterninfluenced recipes. Orange Zest, Cardamom and Lime are the three new flavours from Great Ness, which are available either individually or as part of an Eastern Gift Box Selection. The oils have been developed to mark five years since David and Monica Nunn founded the company.

AUTHENTIC ITALIAN

OIL WITH A DIFFERENCE

Positively Good for You offers a new twist on extra virgin olive oil. The new range of flavoured oils, which include Chilli and Rosemary, use single estate, extra virgin olive oils sourced from the Pata Family olive groves in the Calabrian region of Southern Italy. The oils are made solely from the Ottobratica variety of olives, which are highly prized for their high polyphenol antioxidants. Positively Good for You is a collaboration between GP, author and broadcaster Dr Simon Poole, leading UK food brand innovator Eddie Stableford, and Dr Mauro Boero, who was raised on his father s Italian olive grove!

Crosta & Mollica, creators of Italian regional breads, has expanded into the biscuit category with the launch of Torcetti, a crunchy sweet Italian biscuit made with butter. Baked in the Italian region of Piemonte, the biscuits originated from bakeries making breadsticks, which were enriched with butter, looped and then sprinkled with sugar before baking. Each box, which includes a Classic range and Cocoa range, contains six biscuits.

Fine Foodies Fine Food ies Fine Fo od ies AUTUMN 2012

READER OFFER

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012

AUTUMN 2012

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intervieW

The The Fisherman’s Fish apprentice Ther e man’s apFi prsh ener tic mean’s We are offering readers apprentic e the chance to win one

your free foodie magazine

intervieW

intervieW

Plus:

AUTUMN 2012

Plus: of five year-long Plus: subscriptions to Fine Foodies magazine. Published quarterly, the magazine will be delivered direct to your door. See page 4 for details. to germAny

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monty hAllS on hiS miSSion SAfeguArd monto hAllSheritAge on hiS themiSS uK’S ty fiShing ion to SAfe the uK’S fiShi guArd ng heritAge monty hAll S on hiS miSSion to SAfe guArd the uK’S fiShi Just flAvourS ] South AmericAn ng heritAge treAtS ]indulgent desserts ] South Amer the roAd toicAn germAny ] on flAvourS ]indul Mouth-watering gent treAtS Just dishes to satisfy ] on the roAd to germAny des any sweet tooth serts ] South Amer icAn flAvourS Mouth-wat ]indulgent treAt ering dishes to satisf Just S ] on the roAd y any AUTUMN 2012

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Interview

Monty’s mission Popular TV personality Monty Halls tells Fine Foodies Editor, Rachel Symonds, why it’s time we all changed our buying habits when it comes to fish.

T

o give up eight months of

because we are not buying different fish,

your life to an ancient

they are not selling them. They are either

fishing village off the

used as bait or quota and thrown over the

Barrier Reef show, I had been on the road

Cornish coast, to live and

side,” Monty explained.

for four years – I was knackered and just

breathe the tough issues it

faces, you need to be truly passionate.

“Fishermen are catching cod, for example, because we are telling them

do it initially because I had done three series of Great Escapes and then the Great

wanted to spend time at home!” Monty initially turned the series down,

that we are only eating cod. If they can

but when the BBC asked him to at least

catch other species, the value goes up.”

visit the village, his thoughts changed.

Monty the apprentice

the issues were, I saw that there was a

fishermen of Cadgwith Cove, in Cornwall,

The Fisherman’s Apprentice was

sustainable way of catching fish, but we

to discover what actually goes into

undoubtedly a successful series for the

weren’t supporting our fishermen,” he

getting fish onto our plates.

BBC and for Monty, and has certainly

recalled.

The result was the six-part series, The Fisherman’s Apprentice, which painted a

opened people’s eyes to the issues. But it

Enter Monty Halls, who saw first-hand

the harsh realities of life as a fisherman in the UK today. He spent months living and working alongside the small-boat

pretty sad picture, both in terms of the

may never have happened. A former Royal Marines officer who

“I met the fishermen, and realised what

And so Monty moved to the Cornish village, where he would work for eight months alongside seasoned fishermen,

difficulties faced by our fishermen today

worked for Nelson Mandela on the peace

who were by all accounts finding making

but also about the state of our fish stocks.

process in South Africa, Monty left the

a living tough. While the series appeared

services in 1996 to pursue a career leading

to show some initial hostility to Monty, he

revelation,” Monty admits. “We are looking

expeditions. Having achieved a First Class

says the men were, in fact, hugely

at potentially our last generation of

Honours degree in marine biology, he

welcoming, but perhaps not used to

fishermen and that’s significant. The

spent years travelling the globe, before beginning a television career. Prior to The

having a camera crew around. The man

Fishermen’s Apprentice, he was best known for the Great Escapes series. “I would love to say The Fisherman’s Apprentice was all my idea but the BBC and Indus Productions actually approached me with the idea of living in this fishing community. I wasn’t going to

remains a good friend with whom Monty

“It was a real shock to me, a total

average age is 45 and there is not another generation coming through.” What Monty discovered was a total lack of awareness around the issues faced by our fishing industry, as well as the damage we are doing to fishing stocks simply through our shopping habits. “The vast majority of people in the UK

he became closest to, Nigel Legge, is in touch with regularly. “What the fishermen really wanted was for someone to tell their story, they wanted to show the difficulties of what they do and they wanted to make people realise that when you pay for a crab salad

don’t realise we are in this situation, and I

in a restaurant that costs £15 the

was the same,” he says, “94 per cent of fish

fisherman gets £1.20 for that crab,” he

is caught by four per cent of the boats. I’m

explained.

not knocking the big trawlers, we have to

“I was the same as many, I would

have them, but 80 per cent of the boats

buy fish from a big supermarket and not

catch six per cent of the fish.”

really think about it,” he admitted. “Now, I

What’s more, we are confining our

always try and buy locally caught fish.

palate to too small a number of species.

Here, they know where the fish has come

“Fifty per cent of our fish consumption

from and you are supporting your local

comes from four species; cod, haddock, salmon and tuna. There are 104 species available to commercial fishermen, but

12

FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012

fishermen.” Monty with Reuben

On screen, you saw Monty mucking in with the guys, suffering at times with the


“The best thing we can all do as shoppers is buy a wider variety of fish, it is as simple as that”

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

13


Interview

demanding nature of the job, not to

is swimming past, it goes to the

But the fishermen I spent time with see

mention sea sickness and the dangers

fishmonger or the market and people turn

fish as the ultimate fast food; you get the

that present itself as a fisherman. He

up and buy whatever fish is there. For

fish, which will always be gutted at the

admits it wasn’t easy.

some reason that link has been broken in

very least, you put it in foil with some

the UK and instead of buying what’s there,

butter and whatever else you want in it

we buy what we are used to buying.”

and you cook it in the oven and you’re

“These guys are as hard as nails, they work so hard, and it was so tough for me physically,” he said.

A catalyst for change

For example, spider crab is something that is in abundance in our seas, yet some

done. And you have this delicious fresh, sustainably caught meal. It is so simple.”

98 per cent of it is exported because there

Up next for Monty is a new TV show,

The series has certainly provoked debate,

is no demand here. Why then abroad is it

the details of which are a closely guarded

and resulted in greater awareness of our

considered a gourmet product?

secret but which is set to begin filming at

fishing industry. But what is it that Monty

Encouragingly, the show has started to

the end of the year. Monty is also building

really wants to see shift in terms of the

change people’s attitudes to fish, and

up a new business, Great Escape,

way we buy and consume fish?

there are more requests for different

following a move to the Devon town of

species.

Dartmouth with his wife and daughter.

“The best thing we can all do as shoppers is buy a wider variety of fish, it is

“One fisherman said to me that if for

“The business is really about educating

as simple as that,” he explained. “The

nothing else at least now people know

people about our coastline, because we

simplest thing to do is just say can I try a

where their fish and chips comes from!”

have lost that link. It is a joy taking people

bit of pollock, or some John dory,

Monty said.

out and helping them discover the

something a little bit different. You will definitely be pleasantly surprised. “If people just did that then the value of

However, more change is needed. Monty is hoping to set up a scheme by

coastline.” Asked to pinpoint what his favourite

which people support an individual

series has been, Monty says it’s too difficult

other species would go up so fishermen

fisherman local to them. He also hopes to

because all have given him something

would benefit, and we are protecting our

keep the issues high in people’s minds.

different. But he certainly appreciates the

stock levels and the environment.” But why does he think we are in such a situation in the first place, where as a nation we tend to stick to these four common fish species? “We have lost that direct relationship

But he also wants people to get back to enjoying the wide variety of fish available to us. “I think we can be a bit intimidated by it

experiences they offer. “It has given me a great opportunity to go off to these amazing places, have some incredible adventures and to tell

and that’s because we don’t buy direct

stories, which might otherwise not be

from the boats any more. We have lost

told. I’m very lucky to be able to go off

with the sea and with our fishing boats,” he

that knowledge about how to cook with

and do these things and call that my day

said. “During the show we went to Brittany,

fish,” he said.

job, and to meet some pretty amazing

in France, where the boats land whatever

14

FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012

“People think fish is difficult to prepare.

people in the process,” he said. FF


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IN

Fine Foodies Passionate about good food

READER SURVEY 2012 Dear Reader, At Fine Foodies, we pride ourselves on being a magazine that is informative, interesting and helps you to make the most of your speciality fine food store. We regularly seek your input, your suggestions, your thoughts and your recommendations, and this is what our annual reader survey is all about. All those who complete the reader survey will be entered into a draw to win one of two boxes of the Vintage Collection from artisan Chocolatier Davenport’s Chocolates. Davenports showcase fresh and vibrant flavours that celebrate our British heritage. The Vintage Collection is a trip down memory lane with traditional favourites brought back to life with sophisticated, artisan recipes. The Raspberry Jelly makes you remember birthday tea parties. The Coconut Marshmallow takes you back to teacakes with your grandma. The Lime Cream makes you think of fighting over tins of chocolate on Christmas eve. The Rum & Raisin evokes the taste of old fashioned ice cream. There are 12 flavours in all, packed into gorgeous flock wallpaper boxes.

Rachel Rachel Symonds, Editor

WIN

TWO BOXES OF ARTISAN CHOCOLATIER DAVENPORT’S VINTAGE COLLECTION CHOCOLATES TO GIVE AWAY


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AWARD-WINNING MINTS

In your store DISCOVER THESE PRODUCTS IN STORE NOW

POWER OF POMEGRANATE

Organic Village s authentic juices are pressed from sun-ripened fruit grown in the organic orchards of Anatolia, Turkey. The 200ml bottles are ideal on the go; the 1ltr size is great for the family. Both options provide organic quality at affordable prices. Pomegranates are a source of powerful antioxidants, vitamins and minerals, including precious nutrients for heart health and to maintain healthy cholesterol levels. This delicious Pomegranate Juice (rrp £3.99 1ltr) is Soil Association certified, 100% pure fruit juice, not from concentrate, no added water and no added sugar - it s bursting with goodness. Available from selected fine food stores and online from www. organicvillage.org

WHAT IS GOOD TEA?

Newby offers teas that excite the sensitivity of the palates to experience the true character of the best. The pyramid infusers provide some of the finest loose leaf teas with the convenience of a tea bag. No economy in size of bag has been made. The large bag allows the freedom for the leaf to float and brew the best cup. Each biodegradable pyramid infuser is wrapped in an individual alufoil sachet to preserve freshness. Newby has been decorated by many awards globally, including the North American Tea Championship which is considered the highest award in the tea world. Newby s pyramid infusers are available at www.newbyteas.com and www.cheztoi.co.uk

Summerdown grows and harvests traditional Black Mitcham peppermint and distils its pure mint oil. They use it to manufacture their unique brand of peppermint products, including these stylish chocolate peppermint creams, chocolate mint thins and their exceptional peppermint tea ‒ between them they ve won six Great Taste Awards in three years! The single estate quality oil has a highly distinctive and smooth taste ‒ a taste that has been lost for generations. Bright, fresh and aromatic, it is very different from the harsher, blended, imported peppermint of the past 60 years. To find out more call 01256 780252 or visit www.summerdownmint.com

A preserve for everybody

Thursday Cottage s Blood Orange Marmalade is made with fresh blood oranges grown on the slopes of Mount Etna. Perhaps its the simplicity of the recipe ‒ just oranges, fruit pectin and pure cane sugar ‒ that makes the product such a success. Hand pouring also helps produce a fine mix of peel and fruit throughout the jar. With over 120 products to choose from, including the award-winning fruit coulis range, Thursday Cottage has a preserve for everybody. Recommended retail is an affordable £2.39. Web: www.thursday-cottage.com. Tel: 01621 815429 Email: jams@thursday-cottage.com

A GUILTY PLEASURE

Tilly Confectionery, or better known as Mrs Tilly s, is a family run business who pride themselves in the production of high quality confectionery, using traditional methods and only the finest of ingredients. With two Gold Star Great Taste Awards recently under their belt for their Tablet and Fudge, Mrs Tilly s have just launched their new 150g gift range, along with two new mouth-watering flavours. A delicious Rum & Raisin Fudge and also a luscious all natural Orange Fudge, using natural fruit pieces. A perfect treat for any Tilly s fan, or just a nice size to share, to spread the guilt!!! For more information telephone 01259 751846.

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

17


UK fare

Lovely Lincolnshire

Fine Foodies discovers why Lincolnshire has a food heritage to be proud of.

W

hen British Food

But, in fact, Lincolnshire has a huge

Fortnight

amount to be proud of when it comes to

crowned Britain’s

its food heritage, from its famous

Favourite Food

sausages to its popular plumbread.

Spot, some may

Lincolnshire is actually England’s

have been surprised that Lincolnshire

second largest county, a mix of city, coast

came out on top.

and countryside, which means there is

Not because the county doesn’t produce some fantastic food and drink,

something for every taste to enjoy.

but because other counties it was against,

Britain’s best

such as Cornwall, are perhaps better

The title of Britain’s Favourite Food Spot

known for their traditional offering.

was decided by a public vote last autumn, during British Food Fortnight. More than 22,000 people cast their vote and in the latter stages, it was a neck and neck race between Cornwall and Lincolnshire. Organiser of British Food Fortnight,

incredibly strong farming community that

Alexia Robinson, said: “People may be a

has mounted a ferociously determined

little surprised that Lincolnshire has won

campaign to garner the necessary votes to

as it is not often described as a foodie

win. With the Face of this year’s British Food

destination. But its regional specialities are

Fortnight also being from Lincolnshire, if

enjoyed nationwide and it has an

Lincolnshire was not on the food map before this poll, it most certainly is now!” Mary Powell, who is Tourism Development Manager for Tastes of Lincolnshire, said at the time: “We have the freshest and tastiest local food – premium sausages, delectable pork pies, Lincoln Red beef and the famous Lincolnshire plumbread, best enjoyed with Lincolnshire Poacher Cheese. Add to that famous dishes such as stuffed Chine (salt pork filled with herbs) and Haslet (pork meatloaf with herbs) and fields full of the finest vegetables – what more could a food lover ask for?”

Traditional fare Food and drink in Lincolnshire is at the very heart and soul of our way of life, according to Taste of Lincolnshire, a project funded by Lincolnshire County Council to highlight

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012


and support the area’s producers. Lincolnshire’s specialities include award-winning Lincolnshire Poacher Cheese, coarse-ground Lincolnshire Sausages and slabs of succulent, Lincoln

and their inherent connection to

a logo that is shown in local shops,

Red Beef.

Lincolnshire is clear, according to the

accommodation, pubs, cafes, restaurants

campaigners.

and bars, acting as assurance of quality,

Its sausages have been subject to much publicity in recent months, as

In fact, sausages are so important to

campaigners have fought to have it

the region that they are prominent at

recognised. The Lincolnshire Sausage

food fairs and farmers markets, and there

Association fought to have the

is the thriving autumn Sausage Festival in

Lincolnshire sausage secure protected

October, featuring stalls and

geographical indication status. Despite

demonstrations held at Lincoln Castle.

slight variations on recipes, the importance of the individual ingredients

To ensure quality of produce from the area, Tastes of Lincolnshire has developed

local produce. FF

Find out more If you want to find out more about visiting Lincolnshire and its food highlights, log onto www.visitlincolnshire.com

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

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Food focus

Inner warmth Outside, as the days shorten and the weather bites, it might be frightful, but inside is quite delightful with hot drinks and indulgent treats to keep you warm and cosy. Jennifer Britt serves up a few ideas.

D

usk arrives earlier and

stand for a couple of minutes before

earlier, fallen leaves rustle

infusing.

and hustle at your ankles,

Afternoon teatimes are a real treat for

Master of tea, Louise Allen, a tea taster who founded posh tea company Teapigs, suggests that for a different take on

while the damp and chill

Belinda Gooding, who used to head

afternoon tea, India s traditional chai

permeate the air.

Duchy Originals and then founded her

masala can light up the season of

own business, Roots & Wings, to gather

shortening days by bringing shades of

the curtains, take a match to the kindling

together a larder-load of UK organic foods.

Indian street culture to your hearth.

and welcome in another autumnal evening

She loves the sweet taste of a British

by warming the teapot.

harvest captured in a jar.

Time to wrap up, scurry home, pull shut

It s not just the drinking of a lovely

Eating and enjoying food together as a

Teapigs chai is made with whole leaf black Assam tea blended with cardamom pods, cloves, real pieces of ginger and

cuppa that warms; it s also the familiar

family is so important and providing good

cinnamon and is infused with hot water

ritual of brewing that makes this the liquid

food is one way of showing how much a

and warm milk to make a chai latte.

equivalent of a comfort blanket.

family is cherished, especially when that

This is a rich, malty, warming blend

food has been grown and nurtured and

which is great to make at home on a cosy

made with care, says Belinda.

winter s night. It s a satisfying, healthy drink

Take time for tea The golden rules are choose the best tea,

At Roots & Wings we love nothing

freshly draw the water and boil just once

more than embracing the changing

‒ repeated boiling reduces oxygen, which

seasons and with the harvest comes a

is needed to bring out tea s best flavour.

bounty of wondrous fruits and crops.

that captures the vibrancy and colour of India in a cup, says Louise.

Taking a moment over a cup of tea is a

An indulgent accompaniment

London and selling its super premium

simple pleasure and gives us a chance to

James Hutchins, founder of James

teas to discerning tea lovers around the

relish the season ahead and indulge in

Chocolates, is also a fan of spiciness to

world, reminds us that boiling water is a

some comforting food ‒ any excuse to

keep the first frosts at bay, especially

must for black, oolong and herbal brews,

tuck into Delightfully Delicious

combined with his beloved chocolate.

but that delicate and white teas need

Blackcurrant Jam with scones, it s a firm

gentler treatment, so leave the kettle to

favourite!

For perfection, Newby Teas, based in

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012

Ginger and chilli are two of my favourites and they help to temper the


sweetness of both dark and milk

seeing who can stand the heat; not in my

chocolate. We were the first company in

kitchen but in our new Chilli Flavoured

contrast to the classic combination with

the UK to combine chocolate and chilli

Chocolate Chillies.”

cooling mint. When the trees are bare and

back in the 1990s and it’s clear from the

James tells us that these chilli-shaped

The taste for chocolate and heat is in

the ground is soggy, a little taste of mint is

way that the idea has caught on that it’s a

chocolates are made using a deep milk

such a fitting way to remember the scents

great partnership,” says James.

chocolate and smokey chipotle chilli or

and sensations of a British summer, and in

intensely flavoured Habanero. The latter

the case of Summerdown Mint, specifically

feasts with friends and family as the nights

are painted bright red to act as a warning

a Hampshire summer.

get longer. On such occasions I shall be

to unsuspecting chocolate fans!

“I’m planning to stage a few seasonal

At Ibworth, near Basingstoke, in the

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

21


Food focus

Make mine mulled foothills of the Downs where the traditional English peppermint variety,

Mulling, the warming of alcoholic drinks

Black Mitcham, is now growing

perked up with spicy blends, is a habit we

with Nigel for 14 of his 20 years in the

abundantly at Summerdown Farms, it has

mostly associate with Christmas, but why

drinks-making business, is hard-pressed to

been splendidly wet. Mint just loves rain

wait? Autumnal festivities of Hallowe en

settle on just once choice of fireside

and damp conditions, so this should be a

and fireworks are as good an excuse as

tipple.

bumper year.

any to haul out the giant mulling

Growing peppermint is the retirement venture of Sir Michael

saucepan.

Lucy Bennett, who has been working

The Lyme Bay mulled wine is a little different because it is wine made with

Wassail is a sumptuous and aromatic

English soft fruit, damsons and elderberry.

Colman, who spent more than 40 years in

brew of cider and apple juice infused with

The Christmas Mead is a Gold Great Taste

the family business, Reckitt & Colman, but

fresh oranges and hand-blended spices

award-winner this year, smooth, honey-

when he stepped down, this mustard

from Cornish Orchards. It even comes in a

tasting and spicy, but sshhhhh, it s too

man was on a mission to revive the

five or 15 litre size for that party around

early to mention the C word. Lyme Bay s

English tradition of peppermint growing

the bonfire and there is a mulling apple

Jack Ratt Vintage Dry Cider was a

juice for juniors and abstainers.

three-star Gold Award winner this year

A century ago, England was famous for producing the best mint in the world ̶

Cornish Orchards is the name of cider

and has been nominated for the ultimate

there s good reason that the French call

and apple juice makers from Westnorth

accolade of a gold fork. There are also so

peppermint menthe Anglaise, or English

Manor Farm, part of the Duchy of

many country fruit wines to choose from.

mint. But by the mid 1990s, the industry

Cornwall estate near Liskeard. The season

For winter, you want to go for the

was a distant memory and the United

of mists and mellow fruitfulness ushers in

sweeter, fuller, more robust flavoured

States, where investment in research had

their busiest period of the year, as they

varieties like sloe, plum and ginger, says

improved Black Mitcham s resistance, had

pick fruit, take deliveries from other farms,

Lucy.

become the centre for commercial

sort, press, blend, bottle and ferment. Old

production.

oak barrels, steeped in the spirit of their

she plumps for a cream liqueur. Not the

Sir Michael was passionate about

Forced to choose just one favourite,

previous contents ‒ whiskey, brandy, rum

butterscotch and brandy, the ginger

bringing Black Mitcham back to England

‒ will enhance the freshly-made cider

cream, or the chocolate orange. Double

‒ it s named Mitcham after the place in

they will hold for two or more years.

chocolate cream liqueur will do Lucy

South London, which was once a thriving

Cornish Orchards Heritage Cider is a

nicely.

mint growing area ‒ and to give people

complex blend of wonderful, distinctive

the opportunity to experience the

apple varieties, including Cornish

up that is both food and drink with a shot

difference between the clean, intense

Longstem and Grenadier.

of something stronger, the connoisseurs

taste of pure English mint and harshertasting imports. It took more than a decade to achieve,

For a winter indulgence and pick me

When stockbroker Nigel Howard quit

at Union Coffee Roasters suggest a Winter

the city to start making cider in Dorset, his

Egg Nog, combining an espresso serving

small maker in Lyme Regis was right by

of coffee with Bourbon and rum.

but Black Mitcham mint is now rooted on

the bay that it caught the sea spray flung

80 acres of Summerdown, where it takes

up and over the promenade on turbulent,

rich, intense African coffees over the

about 10 minutes for the harvest to reach

wave-crashing days.

sweet, subtle coffees from Latin America.

the on-farm distillery to make the oil for peppermint tea and chocolate mints.

Today the Lyme Bay Winery is sheltered

For a good winter coffee, look for the

Union recommend its popular

inland, close to Axminster, but Nigel offers

Revelation Blend, which balances the

plenty to strengthen mind and body in

smokiness of the bourbon and rum with

recipe. Take a packet of mint crisps and

whatever part of the country where wild

the sweet chocolate notes of the coffee.

add milk, double cream, egg yolks and

and windy weather will make you batter

We feel warmed to the marrow just

caster sugar. That puts a whole new twist

down the hatches.

thinking about it.

We love Summerdown s mint ice cream

on the concept of after dinner mints. FF

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012


Award Winning Handmade Chocolates Ask in your local deli for James Chocolates or buy online at www.jameschocolates.co.uk 20% discount online for Fine Foodies Readers. Use code FFoodies02. Valid until 31 October 2012


In season

Flavours of

autumn A

utumn is a wonderful time for vegetable gardeners and cooks. Home-grown crops are plentiful, swelling with flavour and their colours are bright and varied. Tomatoes, basil, peppers, aubergines, cucumber and chillies are still cropping heavily, and summer salads are joined by sweetcorn, squash, leeks, Savoy cabbages and runner beans. With so much seasonal produce about,

you might want to try an organic veg box; see schemes such as Riverford. Sweetcorn is a traditional autumn staple. For the very best flavour, use it as quickly as possible. Once picked, the sugars start turning to starch and lose some of their natural sweetness. To cut the corn kernels off the cobs safely, cut the cob across in half, to make two shorter pieces, then rest each cut side on a work surface. Hold the top and run a sharp knife down each side of the cob. Use in this mini pepper and

sweetcorn tarts recipe – it’s a great one to make with the kids. There’s no need to banish salads in favour of comforting stodge just yet. Add substance by combining your leaves with roasted squash, pumpkin seeds, fennel or grilled courgettes. And for pudding make the most of English pears and late season raspberries in this fragrantly-spiced recipe, served with a hearty dollop of double cream. It makes slipping from summer into autumn all the tastier.

Mini pepper and sweetcorn tarts Makes 24 Ingredients: • 1 sheet or block (320g) all-butter puff pastry, rolled out to about 3-4mm • Kernels cut from 1 corn cob • 1 small red pepper, finely diced • 50g double Gloucester, grated • Sea salt and ground white pepper • 2 eggs, beaten • 150ml crème fraîche • ½ tsp dijon mustard • 2tbsp finely chopped fresh chives Method: • Preheat your oven to 200° C. Lightly grease two muffin tins (or cook them in two batches if you only have one tin). Use a 6cm round pastry cutter to cut out circles from the pastry. Gather up the off-cuts and re-roll them to make enough circles. • Put them in the tins. Prick the pastry a couple of times with a fork. Put the corn, pepper, cheese and chives in a large bowl and season. • In another bowl, mix the eggs, crème fraîche and mustard. Divide the pepper and corn mixture evenly between the pastry cases. Carefully pour over the egg mixture. Bake for 25 minutes, until golden and set. Leave to cool a little in the tin, then serve warm or cold.

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012


Sumac roasted squash salad with feta, mint and yoghurt dressing Serves 4 as a side Sumac is a zesty flavoured powder, made from the dried fruits of a Middle-Eastern shrub. Use a little lemon zest instead if you can t get hold of any. Ingredients:

For the dressing:

just tender.

• 1 butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and sliced into finger-length pieces

• 150ml plain yoghurt

• Make the dressing; toast the cumin in a

• 100g feta cheese, crumbled

dry frying pan for one minute and grind to

• 1tsp cumin seeds

a powder, then mix into the yoghurt and

• 1tsp sumac • 2tbsp olive oil • 100g salad leaves • 50g toasted pistachios • 6 mint leaves, shredded

feta. Toss the salad leaves in a little olive oil Method:

to coat and spread over a serving platter.

• Toss the squash in a baking dish with

• Scatter the squash on top. Drizzle over

the sumac and olive oil and season. Roast

the yoghurt dressing and sprinkle over

at 180ºC for about 25-30 minutes, until

the pistachios and mint to serve.

Spiced baked pears with raspberries Serves 4 Serve on its own or with Riverford yoghurt, crème fraîche or double cream. Ingredients: • 175g caster sugar • 1 vanilla pod, split open • 2 star anise • 1 cinnamon stick, broken in half • 4 firm pears, cored and quartered • 1 punnet of raspberries Method: • Heat the oven to 170ºC, and put the pears in a close-fitting baking dish. • In a small saucepan, gently heat the sugar and spices with 250ml water, until the

sugar has dissolved. Pour over the pears and bake in the oven for 30-40 minutes, until just tender, turning once halfway through. • Remove from the oven, add the raspberries and leave to cool. Serve at room temperature.

Recipes by Riverford. Visit www.riverford. co.uk for more.

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

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Recipes

Flavours of South America Rachael Lane inspires with a fusion of South America s finest cuisine.

Costeleta de porco (Pork ribs)

Serves 6

Pork ribs are commonly cooked in Brazil. Here, they are cooked slowly in foil, keeping them beautifully moist and tender with crisp crackling the much-desired prize for most pork lovers. They are a great addition to any barbecue and once marinated require little more than a single turn on the grill, leaving you more time to enjoy with your friends and family. Ingredients: • 2.5kg (5½ lb) whole pork ribs • Juice of 1 lemon • 2tbsp olive oil • 1 small handful oregano leaves, chopped • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 2tbsp sea salt • Vegetable oil, for greasing • Lemon wedges, to serve (optional)

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012

Method: • Remove and discard the thin membrane from the bone side of the ribs. Score the fat, using a sharp knife to make a criss-cross pattern. • Combine the lemon juice, olive oil, oregano, garlic and half of the salt in a small bowl. Rub the mixture over the ribs to coat, place on a large non-reactive tray, cover, and refrigerate for at

least two hours or overnight. • Preheat a barbecue chargrill to low-medium. Remove the ribs from the refrigerator and rub the remaining salt over the skin. Cut a double layer of foil large enough to wrap the ribs. Wrap the ribs in both layers to completely enclose. Grill the ribs, bone side down, for 1½ hours. • Turn the ribs over and grill for a

further 45-60 minutes, or until the fat is crisp and golden brown and the meat is tender. Remove from the heat and set the ribs aside to rest for 15 minutes. • Just before you are ready to serve, unwrap the meat, transfer to a chopping board and slice between the bones. Squeeze the lemon wedges over before serving, if desired.


Hallaquitas (Venezuelan corn parcels)

Makes 24

Hallaquitas are the Venezuelan version of the Mexican tamales. They are boiled corn parcels filled with a dough made from dried corn, which is wrapped in dried corn husks. Hallaquitas are tied twice, once at the top and then in the middle, creating a kind of waist. Curvaceous women in Venezuela are referred to as hallaquitas as their curves resemble the corn parcels. Dried corn husks are available from Latin American food stores. Ingredients: • 40g (1oz) butter • 3tsp sea salt • 30 dried corn husks • 3 cups 550g/1lb 4oz masarepa (see note) • ¾ cup (90g/3¼oz) grated Parmesan cheese • ½ red capsicum (pepper), seeded and very finely chopped Method: • Put the butter, salt and 3½ cups (870ml/29 fl oz) water in a medium-sized saucepan over low heat and stir until the butter has melted and the salt has dissolved. Remove from the heat and set aside for 10 minutes, to cool slightly.

• Meanwhile, place the corn husks in a medium-sized bowl, cover with hot water and set aside for 15 minutes, to soak. Drain and set aside. • Gradually pour the masarepa into the cooled water, stirring to form a dough. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface, add the cheese and capsicum and knead to incorporate. Add a little extra masarepa if the dough is too wet, or a drizzle of water if it is too dry. • Divide the dough into 24 equal-sized portions. Shape each portion in an ovalshaped ball. • Place a ball of corn dough lengthwise in the

centre of a pre-soaked corn husk. Fold up the bottom of the husk and fold in the sides to encase the corn filling. Tear a couple of corn husks into thin strips to use as ties. Tie each parcel twice, once at the top and then in the middle, to create a kind of waist. Repeat with the remaining filling and husks to make 24 parcels in total. • Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Cook the hallaquitas for 10-15 minutes, or until firm. Unwrap the husks to eat. Note: Masarepa is a pre-cooked ground corn

flour. It can be sourced from Latin American food stores. It is also called masa harina.

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

27


Recipes

Picanha (Rump cap)

Serves 4-6

Picanha is considered the best cut of beef in Brazil. It is the rump cap, which has a thick layer of fat covering the meat – this slowly melts (or renders down) when cooked slowly over indirect heat, adding flavour to the meat and keeping it moist and tender. Traditionally, the rump cap is sliced into thick steaks, threaded onto sword-like skewers and cooked on a rotisserie. If you can’t find the right kind of skewers (these can be purchased online) you can cook the steaks individually on a barbecue chargrill. Picanha is not a common cut, so you’ll need to ask your butcher to specially cut the rump cap for you. You may still have to buy the other parts of the rump too, but these can be frozen and used another day. Ingredients: • 1kg (2lb 3oz) whole picanha (rump cap) • 1 large Brazilian-style metal skewer (Churrasco sword) • Rock salt, for seasoning • Vegetable oil, for greasing • Faroga (see below), to serve • Vinagrete (see below), to serve Method: • Preheat a barbecue chargrill to medium-high. Alternatively, preheat a gas barbecue fitted with a rotisserie to 200ºC (400ºF) and set the burners to medium, keeping the lid closed.

• Using a sharp knife, slice the picanha into 4cm (1½ in) thick steaks. You should get approximately four steaks. • To thread the steaks onto the churrasco sword or rotisserie attachment (if using), insert the skewer through the fat at one end of the steak and back up through the fat at the other end, curving the fat to form a ‘C’ shape. Continue threading the remaining steaks onto the same skewer or rod. Season the meat generously with rock salt on both sides. • If using a rotisserie, secure the spit according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Turn off the two middle burners and place a drip tray filled with

Farofa (Brazilian toasted manioc flour with eggs, bacon and quiche)

Serves 8-10

Farofa is toasted manioc (cassava) flour, which is made from ground cassava root. The flour is gluten-free and has a coarse texture similar to a fine couscous or breadcrumbs. It is a unique side dish originating from the Brazilian native Indians. It is commonly served with grilled meats at barbecues and as part of the national dish feijoada, a pork and black bean stew. It can also be used as a stuffing for poultry and fish. There are many variations to the dish – sometimes banana and nuts can be added, or try dried fruits, such as raisins. Ingredients: • 80g (oz) butter • 1 large onion, thinly sliced • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 250g (9oz) bacon, finely chopped • 4 large eggs, lightly beaten • 500g (1lb oz) Manioc (Cassava) flour Method: • Melt the butter in a saucepan over low–medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until softened. Add the bacon and cook for four to five minutes, or

28

FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012

until golden brown. Add the egg and cook, stirring constantly, until the egg has scrambled. • Add the manioc flour to the pan and continue to cook for a further 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden brown – the mixture will be quite dry. Season the farofa with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature with grilled meat, chicken or fish. Note: Manioc flour can be

purchased from Latin American food stores or online.

1cm (½ in) water underneath the meat. Cook for 15-20 minutes for medium, or until cooked to your liking. Wearing barbecue mitts, carefully remove the rotisserie rod. • Alternatively, lightly brush the chargrill plate with vegetable oil. Grill the meat for six to eight minutes on each side for medium-rare, or until cooked to your liking. • To serve, brush off any excess salt and use a sharp knife to thinly slice the meat directly onto serving plates, allowing the juices to be caught underneath. Return the picanha to the chargrill to re-sear the outside if desired. Serve with farofa and vinagrete on the side.

Vinagrete

(Brazilian salsa) Makes 5 cups A must at any Brazilian barbecue, this colourful, piquant salsa is very versatile and can be served with grilled meat, sausage, chicken and fish. Ingredients: • 5 vine-ripened tomatoes, seeded and very finely diced • 2 green capsicum (peppers) seeded and finely diced • 1 white onion, finely diced • 2tbsp chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley • 2tbsp chopped coriander (Cilantro) leaves • ¾ cup (185ml/6½ fl oz) extra virgin olive oil • ¾ cup (185ml/6½ fl oz) white vinegar Method: • Combine the tomato, capsicum, onion, parsley and coriander in a medium-sized bowl. Add the olive oil and vinegar and stir well to combine. • Any leftover salsa can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to two days. Note: Picanha can be threaded in advance and

refrigerated. Bring back to room temperature before grilling. Do not season with rock salt until you are ready to grill.


South American Grill, by Rachael Lane, is published by Hardie Grant, ÂŁ18.99.

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

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Recipes

Delectable desserts Phillippa Sibley serves up a selection of mouth-watering desserts.

Poire Belle-Héllène

Serves 6

My version of Escoffier s classic seems to be missing something at first? Where s the chocolate sauce? On the plate, it appears very simple, but crack the warm chocolate biscuit and honey-scented chocolate sauce flows out. Then dig into the pear and you ll discover it s filled with vanilla-flecked ice cream. I love surprising people. You can make the poached pears, chocolate sauce and ice cream ahead of time (but churn the ice cream close to serving), but the biscuits need to be baked when you re ready to eat them. Ingredients: Poached pears: • 6 perfectly ripe pears (William, Packham or Bartlett) • 625g caster sugar • 1.5 litres water • 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped Chocolate sauce: • 240g best-quality dark couverture chocolate • 155ml milk • 50ml thickened cream (35 per cent milk fat) • 30g honey • 50g butter, cubed Chocolate biscuit: • 115g best-quality dark couverture chocolate (at least 70 per cent cocoa solids) • 50g butter, cubed • 40g almond meal • 40g rice flour • 80g egg white • 80g caster sugar • 40g egg yolk (about 2) For the poached pears: • Poach using the quantity of sugar and water given above, as per instructions on page 30. Add the vanilla bean and seeds to the pan when the sugar has dissolved. Allow the pears to cool in the syrup, then refrigerate until chilled. For the chocolate sauce: • Finely chop or grate chocolate and put in a bowl. Bring the milk and cream to the boil with the honey. Pour the hot cream mixture over the chocolate and stir until smooth and shiny. Add the butter, bit by bit, stirring until combined. Refrigerate until firmly set. • Put the chocolate sauce into a piping bag fitted with a 1.5cm plain-nozzle. Line a small tray with baking paper. Pipe the chocolate sauce into lines about 10cm long. Place in the freezer for about 30 minutes or until hard enough to cut into 5cm lengths. Return to the freezer until needed. For the chocolate biscuit: • Cut six strips of baking paper measuring 7cm x 5cm. Spray inside of six 4.5cm diameter dessert rings with cooking oil spray and line each with a strip of paper so it forms a collar above the ring.

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Spray again and place on a baking tray lined with baking paper. • Finely chop or grate the chocolate and melt in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Let more than half the chocolate melt before you stir with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula. When the chocolate has melted, turn off the heat and add butter. Stir to combine and keep warm. • Sift together almond meal and rice flour. Whisk the egg white until holding soft peaks. Sprinkle in the sugar and whisk until shiny and holding firm peaks. • Place the egg yolk in a large bowl. Add one quarter of the egg white mixture to the egg yolk and whisk to combine. Add this to the chocolate mixture along with the dry ingredients. Thoroughly fold through, then fold in the remaining egg white mixture. • Place the mixture in a piping bag fitted with a 1.5cm-plain nozzle. Pipe the mixture two-thirds of the way up the prepared rings. Remove the 5cm lengths of chocolate sauce from the freezer and

insert one into each chocolate cylinder, taking care not to touch the base. Pipe in more mixture to fill each cylinder. Freeze for at least three hours. Remove the cylinders from the freezer one hour before serving, but keep in the fridge. • Preheat oven to 180ºC (Gas 4). Place cylinders in the middle of the oven and bake for 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave for a couple of minutes before unmoulding. To serve: • Drain the pears on paper towel and discard the poaching syrup. Gently slip a palette knife underneath each chocolate biscuit and lift off the rings. Remove the paper collar and place each biscuit on a serving plate. • To finish, fill a large piping bag fitted with a small plain nozzle with the ice cream and pipe the ice cream into the cavity of each pear. Place next to the biscuits and serve immediately. Churn ice cream close to serving otherwise it will be too difficult to pipe. If too firm, place in the fridge to soften a little.


Peach melba for Oprah I was very excited to be invited to create a dessert for Oprah when she visited our shores in November 2010. My inspiration was, naturally, Melbourne and I instantly thought of combining our beloved peach melba with macarons for their O-shape – my nod to Oprah’s name. I love the pairing of peach and citrusy lemon verbena ice cream, but if you have trouble finding the leaf, classic vanilla ice cream is equally as good.

Ingredients: Macarons: Step one • 225g pure icing sugar, sifted • 225g almond meal • 85g fresh egg white Macarons: Step two – Italian meringue • 225g caster sugar • 55ml water • 85g dried egg white Poached peaches: • 6 poached peach halves • 250ml peach poaching syrup (500g caster sugar and 1litre water) To serve: • 450g fresh raspberries • Lemon verbena ice-cream, recently churned • Edible gold leaf Method: For the macarons: • Preheat the oven to 200ºC (Gas 6). Line a large heavy-based baking tray with a silicone baking mat or baking paper. Step one: • Pulverise the icing sugar and almond meal in a food processor until very fine. Rub mixture through a sieve. It is important it is very fine and aerated, so if not fine enough, you may need to re-blitz after sieving. • Whisk fresh egg white briefly until foamy.

Step two – Italian meringue: • Put sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat and stir with fingers until dissolved, then brush any crystals down from the side of the pan using a pastry brush dipped in cold water. Bring to the boil over medium heat and allow to bubble undisturbed, without stirring or shaking the pan, until the syrup reaches 118ºC. • Place dried egg white in bowl of an electric mixer and begin whisking on high speed. When the sugar syrup reaches 121ºC, remove from heat and allow bubbles to die down. At this stage, the egg white should be holding soft peaks. Reduce speed and carefully pour the hot syrup down the side of the bowl. Once all the syrup has been added, increase the speed and whisk until shiny and holding firm peaks. Step three – combining: • In a large bowl, make a paste with almond meal mixture and whisked egg white from step one. Fold in one third of the Italian meringue, then fold in remaining meringue. Loosen thick mixture by ‘beating down’ – give several firm whacks with a wooden spoon to knock out some of the air. The mixture should be sticky and flow off the spoon. • Put the mixture into a piping bag with a 1.5cm-plain nozzle. Pipe 8cm-diameter circles onto baking mat or prepared tray. You need 12, but pipe more so you have spares. Leave macarons in a warm dry place for up to one hour, depending on temperature, to form a ‘leathery’ skin, which ensures a good ‘foot’ or base. • Place in oven and immediately turn off heat. Leave for five minutes, turn the oven to 100ºC and

bake for 20 minutes. Remove from oven and cool completely on the tray before gently removing. For the poached peaches: • To make poaching syrup, combine sugar and water in the pan and bring to boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat to a simmer. • Add fruit to the simmering poaching syrup and increase heat. Cover surface with a cartouche, pressing baking paper directly onto the surface, then place a plate on top to ensure the fruit stays submerged. When syrup comes back to the boil, reduce heat so just simmering. Gently poach for 15 minutes or until you can easily pierce the flesh with the tip of a knife. • Allow fruit to cool in the syrup, covered with the cartouche, then refrigerate in syrup until needed. If refrigerated, drain the poached peaches on paper towel and bring to room temperature. Place the peach poaching syrup in a wide-based saucepan over medium heat and cook until reduced by half to form a glaze. To serve: • Using the tip of a small knife, very carefully remove the domed tops off six of the macarons and discard (or eat) the tops (you should have spare just in case you break any). • Place the peach halves on top of the hollowedout macarons. Place a macaron onto each serving plate and arrange raspberries around the circumference. Pipe or spoon ice cream into cavity, then top with peach macaron. • Lightly brush the peach with the glaze, decorate with a little gold leaf and serve immediately.

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Recipes

PS Snickers Serves 12 generously My decadent and extremely rich tribute to the Snickers bar. It s all about the salted peanuts. The method is quite involved but the result well worth the effort and you can make all of the components ahead and just assemble right before serving. Ingredients: Caramel parfait: Step one ‒ caramel • 300ml thickened cream (35 per cent milk fat) • 115g liquid glucose • 1 vanilla bean, halved and seeds scraped • 140g caster sugar • 50g butter, cubed • 3 gold-strength gelatine leaves (6g), soaked in iced water to soften, then squeezed to remove excess water Caramel parfait: Step two ‒ bombe • 50g caster sugar • 20g liquid glucose • 60ml water • 160g egg yolk (about 8) Caramel parfait: Step three ‒ combining • 200g whipped cream (soft peak stage) Milk chocolate mousse: • 250g best-quality couverture milk chocolate • 150ml base crème anglaise • 225g whipped cream (soft peak stage) Salted peanut caramel: • 200ml thickened cream (35 per cent milk fat) • 120g caster sugar • 80g liquid glucose • 50g butter, cubed • 100g salted peanuts, roughly chopped To assemble: • 1 quantity dacquoise • 24 milk chocolate plaques (8cm x 4cm), have some spares just in case Method: For the caramel parfait: • Line a 30cm x 20cm brownie tin with baking paper (with the corners cut out so it sits flush). Step one ‒ caramel • Put the cream, liquid glucose and vanilla bean and seeds in a saucepan and bring to the boil. • Heat a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat until one teaspoon of sugar melts when sprinkled in. Gradually add remaining sugar and stir until all the sugar has melted and is light golden brown. Be careful not to let caramel become too dark or it will taste bitter. • Slowly pour the hot cream mixture onto the caramel, whisking until combined. Whisk in the butter, then the gelatine. Strain into a metal bowl and set aside to cool, whisking occasionally.

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012

Step two ‒ bombe • Put the sugar, glucose and water into a small saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring with your fingers to dissolve sugar slightly, then brush any crystals from the side of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water. Continue to cook, without stirring, until syrup reaches 118ºC. • Place egg yolk in bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and beat on medium speed to lightly break up. Once sugar has reached 118ºC, remove from heat and let the bubbles die down slightly. Reduce speed of electric mixer to medium and, while whisking, pour syrup down the side of the bowl onto egg yolk. Increase the speed and whisk until mixture has cooled. Step three ‒ combining • Remove bowl from mixer and gently fold the bombe from step two and the cooled caramel from step one together, then fold in the whipped cream. Pour the parfait into the prepared tin and freeze for several hours until firm. For milk chocolate mousse: • Melt chocolate in a large heatproof bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Let more than half the chocolate melt before you stir with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula. You want temperature of the melted chocolate to be about 45ºC. • Carefully warm the crème anglaise to same temperature as the chocolate, so when they are mixed the chocolate doesn t seize up. This is important as the chocolate will set and become unworkable if the anglaise is too cold (if you are using white chocolate, add the softened gelatine to the anglaise when warm and stir to dissolve). • Add one-third of the warm anglaise to the melted chocolate. Using a rubber spatula, stir the two together just in one section of the bowl to form a core of mixture ‒ you are not mixing everything together. • Add half the remaining anglaise, gradually working in more of the chocolate. Now add the remaining anglaise and mix thoroughly until

mixture is smooth and shiny and looks almost elastic. • While chocolate is still very slightly warm, add one-third of whipped cream and quickly fold through with spatula. Allow to cool for several minutes, then fold the remaining whipped cream. Make sure the cream is completely incorporated. For the salted peanut caramel: • Follow the method to make the caramel above. Fold through peanuts and keep at room temperature until needed. To assemble: • Remove caramel parfait from freezer and allow to sit at room temperature for 10 minutes or until surface becomes slightly sticky. Place a piece of baking paper on surface of the dacquoise and carefully flip over. Remove the paper. Invert parfait onto the dacquoise and press down lightly so the two surfaces stick together nicely. If the parfait is getting too soft, return to the freezer. • Using a large knife heated under very hot water, cut the parfait‒dacquoise slab into 8cm x 4cm logs, taking care to keep edges clean and straight. Return to freezer until ready to serve. To serve: • Put a small blob of chocolate mousse in middle of each serving plate. This will stop the Snickers from sliding around. Then place each log, dacquoise side down, on a plate. • Peel plastic off a chocolate plaque and carefully place, shiny side up, on top. Using a teaspoon dipped into very hot water, form small quenelles of chocolate mousse and place three evenly on each Snickers. Fill the gaps between the mousse with the salted peanut caramel, then place another plaque on top (don t forget to peel off the acetate). Serve immediately.

PS Desserts by Philippa Sibley is published by Hardie Grant Books, £25, available at all good bookshops and Amazon.


Promotional feature

An oil change Eli Farrington, of Farrington Oils, reveals the versatility of cooking with its MELLOW YELLOW rapeseed oil.

Beetroot and chocolate cake Rich, dark and moist ‒ best eaten with a fork! Ingredients: • 30g cocoa powder • 115g plain flour • ½ tsp baking powder • Pinch of salt • 150g caster sugar • 240ml MELLOW YELLOW • 1tsp vanilla essence • 3 eggs, beaten • 200g plain cooked beetroot, well drained and grated • 150g plain dark chocolate, chopped

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012

Method: • Preheat the oven to 375ºF/ 190ºC/Gas mark 5. • Sift the cocoa powder, flour, baking powder and salt into a large mixing bowl and mix in the sugar. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well. • Grease a 7-inch cake tin with butter and line with greaseproof paper. Pour in the cake mix. • Bake for one hour, until a

skewer comes out clean. It will be fairly moist and fudgey in the middle. • Allow to cool for a few minutes in the tin and then turn out onto a rack to cool. Can dust with icing sugar or cocoa and serve with a dollop of crème fraiche. Or if you re a chocoholic like me, you may prefer it neat.

Oil inspiration There are so many ways you can cook with rapeseed oil. Why not give some of these tasty suggestions a go?

CRISPIEST ROAST POTATOES

Using three tablespoons of MELLOW YELLOW per pound of potatoes: • Peel and cut the potatoes into even sizes, pour boiling water over them, salt, and simmer for about 10 minutes so you are part cooking them. Drain and put the lid back on the saucepan. Shake the saucepan vigorously to roughen the edges of the potatoes (this makes them floury and then gives them a crisper surface when roasted). • Meanwhile, have the oil heating up in the roasting tin at 220ºC or in the top oven of an Aga. It is essential that the oil is very hot when the potatoes are added so that the outsides of the potatoes are seared on contact with the oil, giving them a wonderful crispy surface and preventing them becoming too greasy. To ensure that the oil remains hot when adding the potatoes, place the roasting tin on the hotplate, whilst tossing the potatoes in the oil. Ensure that their surfaces are all lightly coated before returning the tin to the oven to roast. They will take about 45-55 minutes to roast and will need turning over half way through cooking. • Serve as soon as possible as roast potatoes don t retain their crispiness well when kept warm.

PESTO/ PESTO DIP

Pesto is a great way to use up the summer surge of basil or other herbs, and will keep for weeks in the fridge and also freezes well. • Using either a blender or a pestle and mortar, pulverise one tablespoon of pine kernels, one large clove garlic and 2oz (50g) basil until you have a smooth purée. • Stir in the salt and 1oz grated Parmesan cheese followed by the very gradual addition of the MELLOW YELLOW until a smooth consistency is achieved.

ROASTED VEGETABLES

A simple family favourite... great mixed with couscous. Also good with winter vegetables, such as sweet potato, potato, onion and carrot into chunky 1-inch pieces. • Simply drizzle with MELLOW YELLOW, season well, and toss everything around to get a good coating. Cook for around 40-plus minutes for the winter vegetables on 220ºC until the vegetables are soft and browning. The flavour of the roasted vegetables infuses into the MELLOW YELLOW making the summer vegetables great mixed with couscous.

ELI S TIP: It is wonderful that so many of you want to adapt your favourite recipes to use MELLOW YELLOW instead of butter. When I substitute butter with MELLOW YELLOW rapeseed oil, I add a little less, about 80 per cent of the total weight required, and make up the remainder with a liquid such as milk, rice milk or soya milk. This is to account for the milk part and the fat content of the butter. If substituting for margarine, the MELLOW YELLOW rapeseed oil would need to be less still, about 75 per cent (and more milk) as there is a higher water content in margarine. I am afraid that it is a little trial and error as recipes all vary, but that is usually my starting point. Good luck, we would love to hear about your results! Visit www. farrington-oils.co.uk or email sales@farrington-oils.co.uk


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Global foodie

Germany’s gastronomy Sofie Dittmann takes a closer look at the food heritage of Germany... and discovers everything from curry wurst to cheesecake.

G

erman cuisine is very

gluten alternative, so it could be gluten-free

regionalised, even though

without much of a hassle.

that has changed over the

If you cannot get a hold of pure farina,

years.

one pouch of instant cream-of-wheat will

In the north we cherish

do (get the kind that needs to be cooked,

our fish, while in the south we love our

not the microwave version). And because

sour roast and liver dumplings. Yet there

this cheesecake is a little thicker in

are some dishes you will find throughout

consistency than the regular kind, it is

Germany.

predestined to have some fruit baked in on

Curry wurst, especially, is still the stuff of

the top.

legends. Ask anybody who has been to Germany about what they miss most, and

Bread is best

the list is topped by curry wurst, followed

Besides curry wurst and cheesecake, bread

by German cheesecake and, last but not

culture still reigns supreme in Germany. It is

least, pretzel bread or, as we call it in

what defines us. For Germans, bread is only bread if it has

Germany, Laugenweck (pretzel rolls or lye

a good crust and hearty flavour, and lots of

rolls).

people I have encountered who have

National dish

either lived in Germany for a while or are

Curry wurst used to be the German

native-born German expats, like me, find

national dish until it was replaced by

themselves on a life-long quest for ‘real’

Döner kebap, AKA the Turkish version of

bread at their places of domicile.

gyros.

Most folks I know here in the US who

That doesn’t mean curry wurst has

have to have ‘real’ bread either drive for

vanished from the culinary fast food

miles to the nearest German-style bakery

scene, it’s just not as sought after as it

they can find (if they are lucky enough to

used to be. The food stands that still make

make cheesecake in Germany as there are

live near an urban centre of sorts), order on

it are usually specialised in it and have a

home bakers around.

the Internet or, like me, bake it themselves.

reputation beyond their local area for that

Probably the easiest kind is a crustless

It is the reason we got a bread maker, even

very thing. They also typically have their

cheesecake. While it is still made in a

very own combination of the kind of

springform, it does not require fiddling

bratwurst they use and the kind of sauce

around with a short crust, as is common

especially when they have been to

they drown it in.

for cakes like these. This cake has a nice,

Germany – the one thing they all bring up

deep brown colour, and the addition of

in conversation are Brezeln (pretzels) and

concoction, or with a sauce based on

fruit at the top will give it an additional

their cousins, Laugenweck (pretzel rolls).

crushed tomatoes. This dish also benefits

eye-catching feature.

You can curry wurst with a ketchup

flavour wise if it is allowed to marinade overnight and re-heated the next day.

For those of you who have had

though these days I prefer to bake by hand. When others think of German bread –

Interestingly enough it is the one bread that in the collective psyche seems to top

German cheesecake before, you will recall

all others. No matter what other bread you

that the cake is a lot lighter than American

may have tasted and enjoyed in Germany,

cheesecake is another one of those dishes

cheesecake – the filling is almost fluffy,

pretzel bread is the one thing that people

people cannot seem to get enough of

depending on the recipe. Therefore, for a

seem to remember above all other bread.

once they have had a taste. It is not

no-crust cheesecake to hold up outside of

And why not? When done right, it is

uncommon to find heirloom recipes that

the springform, we have to add a little

addictive. A good pretzel roll or

have been handed down through the

something else to the batter; a jelling

Laugenweck should be slightly crunchy on

generations, and I think it is fair to say that

agent, such as farina. The farina in this

the outside, have a deep brown colour with

you will find as many different ways to

recipe is easily substituted for a non-

a milky-white, if slightly browned, cross on

Just like curry wurst, German

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012


top and be soft and chewy on the inside. If you have never eaten the real thing

for a reason, but obviously we’re not that

will convert to a simple salt on top of the

good at marketing ourselves. Pretzel roll

pastry when baked, giving it the

you don’t know what you’ve missed.

sounds so much prettier than lye roll, and,

characteristic beautiful deep brown

There was a bakery in my hometown

of course, you wouldn’t use pipe cleaner

colour.

where people used to trek from the

for these, but food-grade sodium

surrounding region just because their

hydroxide.

pretzels were that good. As things go

Pretzel rolls make the best hearty sandwiches. They are best eaten fresh on

There are all sorts of knock-off recipes

the day they are baked, and you can even

with German commercial baking these

out there, but if you want to make real

toast them back to their original glory a

days, theirs are only a faint memory of

pretzels and pretzel rolls, you have to use

day later. They will freeze fairly well, but

what they used to be years ago.

lye. Anything else won’t give you the

the salt on top in conjunction with the

same results. My grandma’s cookbook, for

crust will have a tendency to render them

translates to lye roll, or what a witty friend

example, makes the solution with

soggy and mottled-looking after a few

called pipe cleaner roll. Let’s just say that

something like water and wood ashes –

days. If you must freeze them, thaw them

Germans have a reputation for precision

not the same thing. As caustic as lye is, it

on the countertop outside of their bag.

The German Laugenweck literally

Curry wurst with curry ketchup Here is a quick way to make curry wurst, and be sure to serve this with a side of fries Ingredients: • 1 package of kielbasa, skinless (397g or about 4 sausages) • 454g (1lb) ketchup • 100g (1/3 cup plus 1tbsp) cherry juice • 50g (3¾ tbsp) Frank’s Hot

Sauce or Tabasco • 10g (3½ tsp) garlic powder • 10g (3½ tsp) curry Method: • Cut up and pan-fry the kielbasa. • Combine all other

ingredients in saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the kielbasa. • Remove from heat and let sit for about 10 minutes. • Serve with a side of French fries sprinkled with curry powder.

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

37


Global foodie

Pretzel rolls (Laugenweck)

I found this originally on an expat German forum somewhere on the web with very vague information as to how strong the lye should be, but by now we have tweaked this recipe so much that I can regard it as our original. The very first time I tried it, I used an eight per cent lye solution, which produced really dark, really blistered, and really inedible pretzels. These are the things you will need: • Pretzel salt – a coarse salt that will not simply melt into the pastry but stay intact during baking. • Food-grade sodium hydroxide, available, for example, from Essential Depot • Stainless steel stockpot large enough to hold the water comfortably (see recipe) • Stainless steel skimmer • 1-2 stainless steel half sheets • 1 sturdy metal scraper • Chemical resistant gloves (preferably), but any kind would already be a good protection • Goggles, long-sleeve shirt Ingredients (original recipe): Makes 10 rolls or pretzels • 725g (51/3 cups) bread flour • 5g (¾ tsp) salt • 7g (1¾ tsp) yeast • 375g (1½ cups) water • 5g (1tsp) diastatic malt powder • Pretzel salt for topping For the lye (at a 3.5 per cent solution): • 2l (8½ cups) water • 70g (5½ tbsp) sodium hydroxide crystals Method: • Dissolve the malt powder in water. • Add the dry ingredients to a mixer bowl with a dough hook, slowly add the water and keep kneading until the dough forms a ball and clears the sides of the bowl. • If it appears to be too dry, add a little bit more water until you achieve the desired

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FINE FOODIES SUMMER 2012

consistency. Let rise until doubled, preferably retard overnight. • On baking day, preheat your oven to 200ºC (400ºF). Slowly add the sodium hydroxide to the cold water, close the pot and bring the lye to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. • Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces, each weighing about 110g and being about the size of a peach. Spray the stainless steel baking sheets well with cooking spray. • Shape each piece into a round and be sure to seal well on the bottom. Proof them at the most to half proof, not fully. • Dip the rolls into the hot lye upside down, remove with the skimmer, drain well and place onto the baking sheet. One half sheet will comfortably fit 10 rolls. • Score them with a serrated knife or razor blade. Traditionally, these rolls are scored with a cross on the top. Sprinkle pretzel salt on top. • Bake until they are a deep brown and register at least 85ºC (180ºF) in the middle. The light part of the roll should remain mostly light and not darken very much.

German no-crust cheesecake

(Käsekuchen Ohne Boden) Ingredients: • 125g (½ cup) soft butter • 4 eggs • 315g (1½ cups) sugar • 20g (1½ tbsp) vanilla • 10g (¾ tbsp) lemon flavour • 40g (5tbsp) corn starch • 10g (2tsp) baking powder • 2tbsp* (¼ cup) farina or one pouch instant cream-of-wheat • 1kg (2lbs) quark or ricotta • 2-3tbsp* (½ cup) breadcrumbs (to line the springform with) • Optional: fruit to top *Denotes a REAL spoon

Pretzels

(Brezeln)

• The dough pieces can easily be shaped into pretzels. Shape the dough into a torpedo first, let it rest for a few minutes, then roll it out to a length of about 16-inch. Be sure to leave it thicker in the middle and pretty thin at the ends to achieve a ‘classic’ pretzel shape. • Cross the ends over once, then twist them around each other again. Wet them down slightly with water and press them onto the bottom part. Dip the pretzels in the hot lye one by one. Score them once across the thicker part of the pretzel, then sprinkle with pretzel salt. • Alternatively, you can sprinkle them with pumpkin seeds or sesame, both of which are really popular in the ‘old country’. CauTIon: never add sodium hydroxide to boiling water as it is heating on the stove – it will cause the pot to instantly boil over and possibly splatter you with lye. Believe me, I have been there, and filed this experience under ‘what was I thinking?

Method: • Preheat the oven to 200ºC (400ºF). Whip the butter and sugar until creamy, add the eggs, vanilla, lemon and keep mixing. • Add the ricotta and sift the baking powder, starch and farina on top. Thoroughly beat the batter for a few minutes until it appears to be a thick, creamy, uniform light-yellow mass. • Lightly mist a 23cm (9in) springform with cooking spray and line it with breadcrumbs; put the crumbs into the form and swivel it around until the sides and bottom are lightly coated with crumbs adhering to the cooking spray. • Transfer the batter to the springform and add some fruit on top (optional). Cook at 200ºC (400ºF) until it is a rich, dark golden brown. Remove from the oven and immediately loosen the rim. Take care not to rip off pieces of the cake as you do this, the cake has a tendency to adhere to the metal. Let cool almost completely, then transfer to a cooling rack with the help of a cake lifter.


Drinks update

Images by Matthew Pearl

Drink up GrEEN twISt tO yOur tIpplE A London bar has put a fresh twist on the traditional cocktail. Chelsea bar Barts has unveiled a new home-made, home-grown herbalicious cocktail range. With the introduction of an entire menu of herb-infused beverages, it means the ethical drinker can sip away safe in the knowledge that they are enjoying an organic twist to their tipple. The new Totally Herbaceous, Dude! Menu contains herbs that have been home-grown in Barts’ own garden. Barts bed of herbs include basil, thyme, and sage and will be tended to and plucked fresh, daily, by the Barts botanical barmen. Drinks include The Basil Fawlty, Wild Thymes and Sage Against The Machine, all created by Vicenzo Sibilia.

AN Apple A dAy...

A new organic cloudy apple juice has arrived in the UK. Pago, the Austrian fruit juice specialist, has expanded its offering with the new juice, which is made of 10 different varieties of organically grown apples to give it its cloudy, full and fruity flavour. The fruit is freshly squeezed, ensuring that all the natural goodness from the fruit makes it into the bottle at the time of bottling. Its mellow character is reminiscent of the tastes and flavours of the autumn season. “The Pago philosophy has always revolved around nature – only natural ingredients and the best quality fruits – so extending the range into organic fruit juices is a natural progression for the brand. For almost 125 years now the company has renounced the use of any artificial additives and Pago organic juice does not contain any added sugar,” said Pago’s Martin Henshaw.

ReAl Reds fRoM ITAly

Wine fans are being reminded of a forthcoming event designed to educate about the quality of red wines from Italy. It has often been suggested that Italy has too many grape varieties. And so, an event is being held on October 3 in London, called Real Italian Wine, which concentrates on grapes such as Primitivo, Grillo, and Cataratto Inzolio. Real Italian Wine features more than 50 Italian producers from Abruzzo, Basilicata, Umbria and Sicily. • Register to attend at www.therealitalianwine.co.uk

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FINE FOODIES AUTUMN 2012


The Babycham revolution Back in the ‘80s, Babycham was a popular tipple for the women, but this iconic drink has long been out of favour. Until now that is, if London club Maggie’s has anything to do with it. The ‘80s inspired boutique club has created a new bar dedicated to the drink. The Babycham bar serves a selection of inspired beverages, including Wham Bam Thank You M’aam, a mix of Goldschlager, tequila, lemon juice, sugar, lychee and Babycham, Boom & Bust, which is a blend of Disaronno, Peach Schnapps, and Sugar, topped with Babycham. Then there is Lady In Red, a combination of Chambord, cloudy apple juice, Babycham and a dash of soda.

PomeGreat with less suGar

Pomegranate fans can now enjoy the juice with less refined sugar. PomeGreat has become one of the first to remove sugar from its drinks, to be replaced by an all-natural South American plant extract from the Asteraceae family, which also has 30 per cent fewer calories. The people behind the brand say this move makes PomeGreat the first and only juice drink range to contain absolutely no refined sugar. The change completes a major reformulation that includes the introduction of premium quality pomegranate juice and the introduction of a patented whole-fruit extract. Separately, PomeGreat is also launching a Light version of its pomegranate juice drink, sweetened with the calorie-free natural ingredient stevia and containing just 33 calories per 100ml.

NatioN driNks £1bN of stale coffee a year Brits could be drinking up to £1bn worth of stale coffee every year, a new study has revealed. According to coffee supplier Kopi, shoppers are failing to throw out old coffee, which means it loses quality and freshness, resulting in a dull flavour and stale aroma. The company has set about educating UK coffee-lovers on how to make the best coffee, all the while supplying the best beans and pre-ground gourmet coffee through their gourmet subscription service.

“We realised that for a large part of our lives we had been drinking sub-par coffee without even realising it. To us, bags on the supermarket shelves were the only way we thought you could buy coffee. That’s why we started Kopi in the first place – to bring amazing rare, unique, and fresh coffee through people’s letterboxes every month,” commented Kopi CEO, Philip Wilkinson. Though coffee has a use by date, these dates are often 10 to 12 months in the future. At this point the coffee inside could have lost up to 30 per cent of its flavour.

Berry nice A new range of organic superfruit drinks has hit UK shelves. BerryWhite soft drinks come in four flavours, made with exotic superfruits and high quality natural ingredients, including white tea.They contain no artificial preservatives, additives or added sugar. The four flavours are: Goji Berries with Peaches, White Tea and Echinacea; Cranberry, Guava and Elderberry with White Tea and Guarana; Pomegranate and Blueberry with White Tea; and Lemon, Ginger and Acai Berry with White Tea and Yerba Mate. A donation will be made to the charity Global Angels from every bottle sold.

AUTUMN 2012 FINE FOODIES

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Fine Foodie hero

T

o say Nirmal

the teas are packaged, where

K. Sethia is

they can control the

passionate

temperature, humidity and

about

light in the factory to ensure

producing high

the tea is preserved at its very

quality tea would be

best, locking in the freshness.

something of an

This has radically reduced

understatement – he positively

the time from plucking to

lives and breathes it.

packing, ensuring that the

Tea is something that

character and quality of the tea

Nirmal has known for years,

is preserved.

since first working for a tea

“We have our own

plantation house in London as

packaging facility in India and

a teenager, before going on to

this is the most important part

become an expert tea taster

of what Newby stands for. We

and tea connoisseur. By the age of 16 he had purchased his own tea plantation in India, and later his passion for the culture and heritage of tea led him to establish a collection of some of the finest tea-ware, the Chitra Collection.

Nirmal K. Sethia

Fine Foodies celebrates those making great food and drinks. Here, we talk to Nirmal K. Sethia, founder and Chairman of Newby Teas.

are the only company in the world that preserves their tea that way,” he added. “This is why our teas have won 65 Great Taste Awards. Since 2011 Newby Teas have entered its teas into the North American Tea Championship and have

We buy only at the prime of

reaches you still fresh, full of

already won awards, including

the season from selected

flavour and with fragrance

first place for our Rooibos

business with over three

gardens and maintain a

retained, with character and

Orange Pyramid Infuser and

generations’ experience in the

rigorous quality control

quality preserved.

first place for our Rare Assam.”

tea industry, was established in

procedure,” Nirmal said.

Then, Newby Teas, a family

2000 as it was felt that there

Newby Teas has what can

Through a rigorous process

Today, the range is large

of sampling, tasting and

and includes traditional black

was not enough high quality

only be described as a

selection during the prime

and green teas and tisanes,

tea on the market.

stringent testing and selection

growing seasons, Newby

sourced from all over the

process. For their traditional

selects the finest teas and

world. Newby’s markets are

with the mission to provide

teas, they will only buy some

tisanes. And despite the size

rapidly expanding and

the best prime season teas and

first flush but mainly second

and success of the company,

currently it is sold in Russia,

tisanes. The team believes that

flush teas from carefully

Nirmal still personally tastes

Europe and Asia.

the search for quality is a

chosen tea estates. It is then

and selects the teas to go in

never-ending process and

packaged in its own state-of-

Newby’s products.

strives to enhance the quality

the-art preservation facility in

of Newby products on a

India, which boasts air

extends to how it is

venues, such as Wimbledon

continual basis. Starting with

purification and humidity

transported. For example, most

and Lords.

12 products, today Newby

control systems. The

tea companies transport their

Teas is known as a premium

packaging ensures the tea

teas in bulk all the way to

recognised for its efforts too,

high quality brand, with a

Europe to be packed. En route,

winning accolades around

product range of more than

the tea can be exposed to

the world, including Excellence

200 products.

light, air and moisture, which

in Packaging Design, Top

damages the tea leaves and

Beverage Supplier to HoReCa

tea is at the centre of

degrades the character of the

and Gold Medals for

everything Newby does.

tea. But Newby does things

outstanding tea quality in

Newby takes great care in

differently; it owns a state of

World Food Exhibitions.

selecting the best traditional

the art preservation and

black and green teas, herbals

packing facility in the heart of

and infusions, as well as

the tea-growing region in

creating exciting new flavours.

Kolkata, India. This is where all

Newby Teas was created

“The excellent quality of our

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FINE FOODIES autumn 2012

The quality message also

As well as being found in delis and food halls, Newby also supplies to big sporting

Newby Teas has been

And from the wide variety of teas, what is Nirmal’s favourite? “I enjoy jasmine,” he revealed. FF


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Fine Foodies Autumn 2012  

Fine Foodies Autumn 2012 issue